eat magazine may | june 2012

Cover phot

EATm

EAT is delivein BC includKelowna, Th

CommunitNanaimo: K : Anya Levykh,Okanagan: Claire Sear, Victoria: Rebecca Baugniet, Comox Valley: Eli BlakeWeb ReportersDeanna Ladret, Ellie ShorttContributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Ezra Cipes, Jennifer Danter,Jen Dart, Jasmon Dosanj, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, TraceyKusiewicz, Anya Levykh, Ceara Lornie, Denise Marchessault, Sandra McKenzie, MichaelaMorris, Elizabeth Nyland, Julie Pegg, Treve Ring, Claire Sear, Elizabeth Smyth, MichaelTourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman, Caroline West.

Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT is a registered trademark.

Advertising: 250.384.9042, [email protected]

Mailing address: Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4,

Tel: 250.384.9042 Email: [email protected] Website: eatmagazine.ca

Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced

without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island

Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed

in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves

the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

Main PlatesRECIPESPlenty O Pie . . . . . . . . . . .....24Fish in Parchment . . . . .....32

TRENDINGThe Return of the Hunt .....28

TRAVELTofino Festivals . . . . . . . .....30Destination Penticton . .....45

2 EAT MAGAZINE MAY | JUNE 2012

3www.eatmagazine.ca MAY | JUNE 2012

TapasConcierge Desk . . . . . . . 06

Epicure At Large . . . . . . .08

Food Matters . . . . . . . . . .09

Meet the Chef . . . . . . . . .10

Good For You . . . . . . . . .12

Get Fresh . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Reporter . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Eating Well for Less . . . .18

Top Shelf . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Liquid Assets . . . . . . . . . .36

Wine & Food Pairing . . .38

News from around BC . .39

Wine + Terroir . . . . . . . .42

Producers Series . . . . . . .46

Chefs Talk . . . . . . . . . . .47

Cover photography: Plenty O Pie by Michael Tourigny

EAT magazine may & june 2012

EAT is delivered to over 300 pick-up locationsin BC including Victoria, Vancouver,Kelowna, The Islands and the Okanagan

twitter.com/EatMagazine

Facebook/EatMagazine

Editor in Chief Gary HynesContributing Editor Carolyn Bateman Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg

DRINK Editor Treve RingSenior Wine Writer Larry Arnold

Okanagan Contributing Editor Claire Sear

Community ReportersNanaimo: Karma Brophy, Tofino | Uclulet: Jen Dart, Vancouver:: Anya Levykh,Okanagan: Claire Sear, Victoria: Rebecca Baugniet, Comox Valley: Eli BlakeWeb ReportersDeanna Ladret, Ellie ShorttContributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Ezra Cipes, Jennifer Danter,Jen Dart, Jasmon Dosanj, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, TraceyKusiewicz, Anya Levykh, Ceara Lornie, Denise Marchessault, Sandra McKenzie, MichaelaMorris, Elizabeth Nyland, Julie Pegg, Treve Ring, Claire Sear, Elizabeth Smyth, MichaelTourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman, Caroline West.

Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT is a registered trademark.

Advertising: 250.384.9042, [email protected]

Mailing address: Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4,

Tel: 250.384.9042 Email: [email protected] Website: eatmagazine.ca

Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced

without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island

Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed

in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves

the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

Main PlatesRECIPESPlenty O Pie . . . . . . . . . . .....24Fish in Parchment . . . . .....32

TRENDINGThe Return of the Hunt .....28

TRAVELTofino Festivals . . . . . . . .....30Destination Penticton . .....45

Warm fresh air and longer evenings are perfect for entertaining or enjoying a quiet meal on the patio.

View our recipe selection at thriftyfoods.com for convenient and delicious recipe ideas like this.

Friends, family and great food.

$VTUPNFS4FSWJDFtUISJGUZGPPETDPN

Strip Loin Steaks with Sauted Lobster

convenient and delicious recipe ideas like this.View our recipe selection at thriftyfoods.com for

entertaining or enjoying a quiet meal on the patio. Warm fresh air and longer evenings are perfect for





Andrew Moyerowner of VictoriasOttavio Italian Bakery and Delicatessen

www.eatmagazine.ca MAY | JUNE 20124 EAT MAGAZINE MAY | JUNE 2012

for people who love to cook

BBrrooaaddmead Village, Victoria113300-777 Royal Oak Drive

250-727-2110

Bridal Registry Available

Chef'sChoice Classic WafflePro

This elegant new waffle maker bakes two delicious waffles in just two minutes or less!

Monday to Friday7:30am to 6pm

Saturday8am to 5pm

WILD FIREorganic bakery & caf

Proudly milling Vancouver island grown wheatUsing 99% locally grown and certified organic ingredients

250.381.34731517 Quadra Street

Victoria, BC www.wildfirebakery.ca

Fernwood Bites T o some of you the name Funky Junky Fernwood may ring a bell. Butapproximately seven years ago, what was once perhaps a less reputable part ofVictoria has now blossomed into one of the most cultured and friendly areas ofthe city. The change is thanks in part to Fernwood NRG (Neighbourhood ResourceGroup Society), a social enterprising non-profit organization run by and for the resi-dents of the neighbourhood who first purchased the Cornerstone building in August2005, and then transformed the space into affordable housing for families. Since thenthey have expanded to include more affordable housing undertakings in addition tochildcare and family programs, employment opportunity sourcing and other projectswith the goal of raising the value of living in the Fernwood area. Of course, one of the best ways of building neighbourly relationships is through the

connecting power of food, and one of Fernwood NRGs biggest and well-attendedfundraisers is based upon edible enjoyments. On June 24, this organization will beholding the 3rd annual Fernwood Bites event, showcasing the gastronomictalents of Fernwood businesses as well as other local eateries and chefs from aroundsouthern Vancouver Island. Mila Czemerys, who helps organize this event, recognizesthe integral part food has played in the growth of the Fernwood community. The event runs for two and a half hours in Fernwood Square and has sold out the

last two years. For a $50 ticket, guests are able to sample an unlimited array of food anddrink from some of Victorias greatest talents, and with a firm cap on 300 attendees,this intimate event gives both vendors and guests the opportunity to get to know eachother through more face-to-face interactions than they might have otherwise had ina restaurant setting. This is a great opportunity for us to showcase all the cool aspectsof Fernwood, says Mike Colwill, owner of the Fernwood Inn. This is a uniquecommunity and I love seeing people fall in love with the different tastes of our square- its great to engage with them on a personal level. Not only is this a great event for businesses to interact with patrons both new and

old, but because Fernwood invites vendors from outside of the neighbourhood, itsalso a wonderful opportunity for strenghening ties within the local food scene as awhole. Torin Egan, head chef of The Superior, participated in the event last year andis reminded of a particularly great relationship that came from his neighbouringvendor. Last year we were situated beside Sea Cider and just through chatting withthem at the event, we were able to begin a great working relationship that we continueto uphold today. I look forwards to seeing what other relationships will come out ofthis years event. Though a great event to build awareness and funds for the Fernwood neighbour-

hood, Jena Stewart of Devour, a participant in the event since the beginning, addsthat this is a great opportunity for overall growth in the Victoria food community.Victoria isn't all that big, however we see its food scene growing, and that meanscreating a widespread network of food makers and consumers. I think if we are all tosucceed, a 'coming together' of those of us in the industry is essential, no matter wherethe event is being held. I love the idea of a citywide food culture!Tickets have been on sale since April 10th and are available at www.fernwood.ca, with

all proceeds going to support Fernwood NRG. By Ellie Shortt


for people who love to cook

BBrrooaaddmmeeaadd VViillllaaggee,, VViiccttoorriiaa113300--777777 RRooyyaall OOaakk DDrriivvee

225500--772277--22111100

Bridal Registry Available

Chef'sChoice Classic WafflePro

This elegant new waffle maker bakes two delicious waffles in just two minutes or less!

Open 7 nights5pm | midnight Tues-Sat5pm | 10pm Sun-Mon250 . 388 . 42221307 Gladstone Avenue, Victoriawww.stagewinebar.com twitter.com/stagewinebar

...Casual Fridays,

Saturdays, Sundays

& Monday thru Thursdays...

Sidney Summer Market

Salt Spring Market

Goldstream Station MarketSaturdays (10am-2pm), May26-OctDowntown Langford, Bryn Maur Rd

Thursdays (5:30pm-8:30pm), June-AugBeacon Avenue in Sidney

Saturdays (8:30am-4pm), Apr-OctCentennial Park in the heart of Ganges

Metchosin Farmers MarketSundays (11am-2pm), May-Oct4450 Happy Valley Rd, behind the !rehall

Moss Street Market

James Bay Market

Downtown Victoria Public Market

Oaklands Sunset Series

Goldstream Station Market

North Saanich Farm Market

Sidney Summer Market

Salt Spring Market

Saturdays (10am-2pm), May-OctCorner of Moss St and Fair!eld Rd

Saturdays (9am-3pm), May-OctCorner of Menzies and Superior

Wednesdays (12pm-5pm), Apr-OctMarket Square, 560 Johnson Street

Wed, Jul 4, Jul 18, Aug 1, Aug 15 (6pm-10pm)Oaklands Community Centre, 2827 Belmont Ave

Saturdays (10am-2pm), May26-OctDowntown Langford, Bryn Maur Rd

Saturdays (9:30am-12:30pm), June-OctSaint Johns United Church, 10990 West Saanich Rd

Peninsula Country MarketSaturdays (9am-1pm), May-Oct1528 Stellys Cross Rd, Central Saanich

Thursdays (5:30pm-8:30pm), Jun-AugBeacon Avenue in Sidney

Saturdays (8:30am-4pm), Apr-OctCentennial Park in the heart of Ganges Metchosin Farmers MarketSundays (11am-2pm), May-Oct4450 Happy Valley Rd, behind the !rehall

The corner of Moss St and Farifield RdRain or shine. MossStreetMarket.com

MossSt.Market

yearst21

Season startsApril 7, 2012

Co"ee & Live Music

Local markets are all about freshness, fun, and community. Vendors of these markets make, bake, and grow everything.

Farmers bring to you their farm-fresh, wholesome foods, fromfruits & vegetables, organics,,meats, seafood, and eggs tospecialty cheese, jams, salsa, donuts, and so much more.

Artisan o"er specialty, one-of-a-kind, locally-made potteryproducts .Connect directly

with local farmers who personally bring their goods to your plate. or the

Enjoy quality seasonal food, picked at the height of its natural harvest.

Take time to support local farmers and artisans in an atmosphere of festivity and community to positively impact your environment by buying within

the shortest distance to where you live. Good for you;

good for everyone.

Monday to Friday7:30am to 6pm

Saturday8am to 5pm

WILD FIREorganic bakery & caf

Proudly milling Vancouver island grown wheatUsing 99% locally grown and certified organic ingredients

250.381.34731517 Quadra Street

Victoria, BC www.wildfirebakery.ca

Fernwood Bites T o some of you the name Funky Junky Fernwood may ring a bell. Butapproximately seven years ago, what was once perhaps a less reputable part ofVictoria has now blossomed into one of the most cultured and friendly areas ofthe city. The change is thanks in part to Fernwood NRG (Neighbourhood ResourceGroup Society), a social enterprising non-profit organization run by and for the resi-dents of the neighbourhood who first purchased the Cornerstone building in August2005, and then transformed the space into affordable housing for families. Since thenthey have expanded to include more affordable housing undertakings in addition tochildcare and family programs, employment opportunity sourcing and other projectswith the goal of raising the value of living in the Fernwood area. Of course, one of the best ways of building neighbourly relationships is through the

connecting power of food, and one of Fernwood NRGs biggest and well-attendedfundraisers is based upon edible enjoyments. On June 24, this organization will beholding the 3rd annual Fernwood Bites event, showcasing the gastronomictalents of Fernwood businesses as well as other local eateries and chefs from aroundsouthern Vancouver Island. Mila Czemerys, who helps organize this event, recognizesthe integral part food has played in the growth of the Fernwood community. The event runs for two and a half hours in Fernwood Square and has sold out the

last two years. For a $50 ticket, guests are able to sample an unlimited array of food anddrink from some of Victorias greatest talents, and with a firm cap on 300 attendees,this intimate event gives both vendors and guests the opportunity to get to know eachother through more face-to-face interactions than they might have otherwise had ina restaurant setting. This is a great opportunity for us to showcase all the cool aspectsof Fernwood, says Mike Colwill, owner of the Fernwood Inn. This is a uniquecommunity and I love seeing people fall in love with the different tastes of our square- its great to engage with them on a personal level. Not only is this a great event for businesses to interact with patrons both new and

old, but because Fernwood invites vendors from outside of the neighbourhood, itsalso a wonderful opportunity for strenghening ties within the local food scene as awhole. Torin Egan, head chef of The Superior, participated in the event last year andis reminded of a particularly great relationship that came from his neighbouringvendor. Last year we were situated beside Sea Cider and just through chatting withthem at the event, we were able to begin a great working relationship that we continueto uphold today. I look forwards to seeing what other relationships will come out ofthis years event. Though a great event to build awareness and funds for the Fernwood neighbour-

hood, Jena Stewart of Devour, a participant in the event since the beginning, addsthat this is a great opportunity for overall growth in the Victoria food community.Victoria isn't all that big, however we see its food scene growing, and that meanscreating a widespread network of food makers and consumers. I think if we are all tosucceed, a 'coming together' of those of us in the industry is essential, no matter wherethe event is being held. I love the idea of a citywide food culture!Tickets have been on sale since April 10th and are available at www.fernwood.ca, with

all proceeds going to support Fernwood NRG. By Ellie Shortt


house Trail and Multi Use Path (MUP). June 1-3. (tofinofoodandwinefestival.com)

ICC LOCAL FOOD FESTThis annual fundraiser supporting the ICCs micro-loan fund for farmers aims to en-gage and inspire the public through their palates, with an afternoon spent savouringthe finest food and beverages the Island has to offer. June 10 at Fort Rodd Hill.(www.iccbc.ca)

V.I.C. FESTThe second annual V.I.C. Fest (Vancouver Island Cultural Festival) will be held in Vic-toria, BC on Saturday, June 16th at St. Anns Academy in the heart of DowntownIt is a one-day outdoor festival held at the historic St. Anns Academy. This year a sec-ond stage has been added featuring the Islands most talented performers. A sprawl-ing orchard will host the Islands best local breweries along with a newly improved andexpanded wine garden featuring wineries from around Vancouver Island. V.I.C. Festwill also showcase local food vendors and delicious Island cuisine. (www.vicfest.ca)

BC SHELLFISH FESTIVALFor one weekend in June, Vancouver Island hosts the largest shellfish festival on theWest Coast. Featuring live-entertainment, cooking demos by some of the industrys topchefs, sea worthy competitions and lots of locally grown, sustainably harvested shell-fish. The event kicks off with a six course Chefs Dinner on Friday, June 15, featuringa great lineup of local chefs, including Ned Bell, Bill Jones, Ronald St. Pierre and more. June 15 16 in Comox. (www.bcshellfishfestival.ca)

FERNWOOD BITESThis will be the third annual Local Fare in an Urban Square food and drink tastingevent, raising funds for the Fernwood NRG. Featuring local eateries and chefs, beerand wine, live music and a silent auction. June 24, 5.30pm -8pm in Fernwood Square.$50 per person. Due to access to alcohol, this is a19 years + only event. (www.fern-woodnrg.ca)

ONGOING THROUGHOUT THE SPRING AND SUMMER MONTHS:

VICTORIA DOWNTOWN PUBLIC MARKET SOCIETYS SUMMER MARKETSThe VDPMS Summer Markets will be held weekly, every Wednesday from 12pm-5pmin Market Square. Familiar artisan vendors will be there offering the best produce andvalue added food Vancouver Island has to offer, and a growing number of farmers willbe selling plant starts and produce as the season progresses. For a full list of vendors,visit their website. (www.victoriapublicmarket.com)

RICHMOND SUMMER NIGHT MARKETThis Asian-style summer event is back starting May 11, 2012. The only one of its kindin North America, the Summer Night Market is as authentic as the original Night Mar-kets throughout Asia. Barbeque beef skewers, Cantonese dumplings, deep-fried cheese-cake, Japanese octopus rolls or hurricane potatoes are just some of the foods on offer.(www.summernightmarket.com)

STEVESTON FARMERS AND ARTISANS MARKETLocated at the corner of Third Avenue and Moncton Street in Steveston. The 2012Steveston Farmers and Artisans Summer Market will open Sunday, May 20 and oper-ate bi-weekly until September 30. Market Dates: May 20, June 3, 17; July 15, 29; Aug.5, 19; Sept. 2, 16, 30. (www.sfam.ca)

MARKET DINNER EVENINGS AT EDIBLE CANADAEdible Canada on Granville Island has invited chefs from across the country to par-ticipate in their market dinner series. National celebrities (including Anna Olson, LynnCrawford, Connie DeSousa, Andrea Nicholson), and local talent (including VikramEach chef will prepare a gourmet, seasonal feast in the custom designed private demon-stration dining room at Edible Canada at the Market. (www.ediblecanada.com)

JOY ROAD CATERING SUNDAY AL FRESCO VINEYARD DINNERSThis summer's Sunday Al Fresco Vineyard Dinners will be hosted on the grounds of theGod's Mountain Estate B&B just South of Penticton. This unparalleled Okanagan din-ing experience welcomes local winemakers, beginning June 28th with Joie Farm andrunning until September 6th. (www.joyroadcatering.com) .

MAYSPRING OKANAGAN WINE FESTIVALAfter watching their vines sleep for months, local BC winemakers and vineyards cel-ebrate the arrival of spring and the waking of the vines with a glass or two of wine.Spread over the first two weeks of May, the Spring Okanagan Wine Festival busts loosewith over 100 events throughout the valley. May 4-13. (www.thewinefestivals.com)

DEERHOLME FARM FORAGES AND DINNERSSpring events at Deerholme Farm include a Morel Mushroom and Pasture-RaisedChicken feast on May 5 (Mothers Day Weekend) and a Wild Food Forage on May19(Victoria Day Weekend). (www.deerholme.com)

EPIC: VANCOUVER SUN SUSTAINABLE LIVING EXPOWestern Canada's largest sustainable lifestyle show and eco-marketplace. This annualcelebration of planet-friendly living with over 300 green companies, inspiring ideas,exciting entertainment, and smart shopping in one jam-packed weekend. Cookingdemonstrations with Vancouver's top Green Table chefs and more. May 11-13. (www.vancouver.epicexpo.com/)

FIRST ANNUAL VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL TEQUILA EXPOThis event will take place on Saturday, May 12 at the Vancouver Convention CentreEast. It will feature seminars and tastings, and is sponsored by Las Margaritas Mexi-can Restaurant and the Consulate General of Mexico. Proceeds will benefit the BritishColumbia Hospitality Foundation (BCHF), the hospitality industry's own charity.(www.vancouvertequilaexpo.com)

4th ANNUAL SPOT PRAWN FESTIVALThis years festival is a cooperative effort between the town of Cowichan Bay and thePacific Prawn Fishers Association. Special Guest at this years event will be Robert Clark,Executive Chef of C Restaurant in Vancouver. A family-friendly, fun weekend of chefdemos, spot prawn sampling, music and spot prawn sales fresh off the boats. Localeateries will be featuring a spot prawn dish or menu for the week following the event.May 12- 13. (www.cowichanbayseafood.com)

FEAST! TOFINO-UCLUELETA collaboration between the areas renowned chefs, fishermen and women, accom-modation providers, activity providers and tour operators, Feast! Tofino - Ucluelet cel-ebrates the abundance of local produce, seafood and sustainable " boat to table "practices commonly adopted by the area's restaurants. This weeks festival is dividedinto two parts; Salmon Festival Week (May 18-25) and Spot Prawn Festival Week (May25-June 2). (www.feastbc.com)

A TASTE OF FRANCE AT PAPRIKA BISTROPaprika Bistro will host an evening of fine French food on Tuesday May 29th. Join thePaprika team and Stuart Brown for a four-course wine and food tasting. 7pm. Call250.592.7424 for reservations. (www.paprika-bistro.com)

ANNUAL LUND SHELLFISH FESTIVALFrom May 27 - 29, the shores of Lund Harbour are transformed into an outdoor festi-val boasting food vendors selling a variety of freshly cooked oysters, clams, mussels,prawns, and other delights. Festivities include a Chowder Challenge, live music, craftbooths, shellfish sales, art shows, free cooking demonstrations, BCs Best Oysters Com-petition, contests, and kids play area. Lunds Shellfish Festival is handicap accessibleand all waste is recycled (no garbage is produced). (www.lundbc.ca)

JUNETOFINO FOOD AND WINE FESTIVALNow in their 9th year, this festival celebrates the marriage of food and wine, with themain event, Grazing in the Gardens, showcasing local culinary talents and British Co-lumbia wines, in the beautiful Tofino Botanical Gardens. Events of the festival supportseveral non-profit organizations and initiatives, including Tofino Botanical GardensFoundation, Community Childrens Centre and Tofinos Community Garden, Light-

Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead

the concierge desk by Rebecca BaugnietFor more events visit www.eatmagazine.ca

www.eatmagazine.ca MAY | JUNE 2012 7

Looking for great views & mouthwatering bbq? Weve got you covered.BBQ season is just around the corner. Join us on Masters Terrace and take in the sights, sounds and tastes of Bear Mountain.

BLOCK PARTY BBQS WILL BE BACK THIS

SUMMER STAY TUNED ON FACEBOOK.

-- | .

house Trail and Multi Use Path (MUP). June 1-3. (tofinofoodandwinefestival.com)

ICC LOCAL FOOD FESTThis annual fundraiser supporting the ICCs micro-loan fund for farmers aims to en-gage and inspire the public through their palates, with an afternoon spent savouringthe finest food and beverages the Island has to offer. June 10 at Fort Rodd Hill.(www.iccbc.ca)

V.I.C. FESTThe second annual V.I.C. Fest (Vancouver Island Cultural Festival) will be held in Vic-toria, BC on Saturday, June 16th at St. Anns Academy in the heart of DowntownIt is a one-day outdoor festival held at the historic St. Anns Academy. This year a sec-ond stage has been added featuring the Islands most talented performers. A sprawl-ing orchard will host the Islands best local breweries along with a newly improved andexpanded wine garden featuring wineries from around Vancouver Island. V.I.C. Festwill also showcase local food vendors and delicious Island cuisine. (www.vicfest.ca)

BC SHELLFISH FESTIVALFor one weekend in June, Vancouver Island hosts the largest shellfish festival on theWest Coast. Featuring live-entertainment, cooking demos by some of the industrys topchefs, sea worthy competitions and lots of locally grown, sustainably harvested shell-fish. The event kicks off with a six course Chefs Dinner on Friday, June 15, featuringa great lineup of local chefs, including Ned Bell, Bill Jones, Ronald St. Pierre and more. June 15 16 in Comox. (www.bcshellfishfestival.ca)

FERNWOOD BITESThis will be the third annual Local Fare in an Urban Square food and drink tastingevent, raising funds for the Fernwood NRG. Featuring local eateries and chefs, beerand wine, live music and a silent auction. June 24, 5.30pm -8pm in Fernwood Square.$50 per person. Due to access to alcohol, this is a19 years + only event. (www.fern-woodnrg.ca)

ONGOING THROUGHOUT THE SPRING AND SUMMER MONTHS:

VICTORIA DOWNTOWN PUBLIC MARKET SOCIETYS SUMMER MARKETSThe VDPMS Summer Markets will be held weekly, every Wednesday from 12pm-5pmin Market Square. Familiar artisan vendors will be there offering the best produce andvalue added food Vancouver Island has to offer, and a growing number of farmers willbe selling plant starts and produce as the season progresses. For a full list of vendors,visit their website. (www.victoriapublicmarket.com)

RICHMOND SUMMER NIGHT MARKETThis Asian-style summer event is back starting May 11, 2012. The only one of its kindin North America, the Summer Night Market is as authentic as the original Night Mar-kets throughout Asia. Barbeque beef skewers, Cantonese dumplings, deep-fried cheese-cake, Japanese octopus rolls or hurricane potatoes are just some of the foods on offer.(www.summernightmarket.com)

STEVESTON FARMERS AND ARTISANS MARKETLocated at the corner of Third Avenue and Moncton Street in Steveston. The 2012Steveston Farmers and Artisans Summer Market will open Sunday, May 20 and oper-ate bi-weekly until September 30. Market Dates: May 20, June 3, 17; July 15, 29; Aug.5, 19; Sept. 2, 16, 30. (www.sfam.ca)

MARKET DINNER EVENINGS AT EDIBLE CANADAEdible Canada on Granville Island has invited chefs from across the country to par-ticipate in their market dinner series. National celebrities (including Anna Olson, LynnCrawford, Connie DeSousa, Andrea Nicholson), and local talent (including VikramEach chef will prepare a gourmet, seasonal feast in the custom designed private demon-stration dining room at Edible Canada at the Market. (www.ediblecanada.com)

JOY ROAD CATERING SUNDAY AL FRESCO VINEYARD DINNERSThis summer's Sunday Al Fresco Vineyard Dinners will be hosted on the grounds of theGod's Mountain Estate B&B just South of Penticton. This unparalleled Okanagan din-ing experience welcomes local winemakers, beginning June 28th with Joie Farm andrunning until September 6th. (www.joyroadcatering.com) .

MAYSPRING OKANAGAN WINE FESTIVALAfter watching their vines sleep for months, local BC winemakers and vineyards cel-ebrate the arrival of spring and the waking of the vines with a glass or two of wine.Spread over the first two weeks of May, the Spring Okanagan Wine Festival busts loosewith over 100 events throughout the valley. May 4-13. (www.thewinefestivals.com)

DEERHOLME FARM FORAGES AND DINNERSSpring events at Deerholme Farm include a Morel Mushroom and Pasture-RaisedChicken feast on May 5 (Mothers Day Weekend) and a Wild Food Forage on May19(Victoria Day Weekend). (www.deerholme.com)

EPIC: VANCOUVER SUN SUSTAINABLE LIVING EXPOWestern Canada's largest sustainable lifestyle show and eco-marketplace. This annualcelebration of planet-friendly living with over 300 green companies, inspiring ideas,exciting entertainment, and smart shopping in one jam-packed weekend. Cookingdemonstrations with Vancouver's top Green Table chefs and more. May 11-13. (www.vancouver.epicexpo.com/)

FIRST ANNUAL VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL TEQUILA EXPOThis event will take place on Saturday, May 12 at the Vancouver Convention CentreEast. It will feature seminars and tastings, and is sponsored by Las Margaritas Mexi-can Restaurant and the Consulate General of Mexico. Proceeds will benefit the BritishColumbia Hospitality Foundation (BCHF), the hospitality industry's own charity.(www.vancouvertequilaexpo.com)

4th ANNUAL SPOT PRAWN FESTIVALThis years festival is a cooperative effort between the town of Cowichan Bay and thePacific Prawn Fishers Association. Special Guest at this years event will be Robert Clark,Executive Chef of C Restaurant in Vancouver. A family-friendly, fun weekend of chefdemos, spot prawn sampling, music and spot prawn sales fresh off the boats. Localeateries will be featuring a spot prawn dish or menu for the week following the event.May 12- 13. (www.cowichanbayseafood.com)

FEAST! TOFINO-UCLUELETA collaboration between the areas renowned chefs, fishermen and women, accom-modation providers, activity providers and tour operators, Feast! Tofino - Ucluelet cel-ebrates the abundance of local produce, seafood and sustainable " boat to table "practices commonly adopted by the area's restaurants. This weeks festival is dividedinto two parts; Salmon Festival Week (May 18-25) and Spot Prawn Festival Week (May25-June 2). (www.feastbc.com)

A TASTE OF FRANCE AT PAPRIKA BISTROPaprika Bistro will host an evening of fine French food on Tuesday May 29th. Join thePaprika team and Stuart Brown for a four-course wine and food tasting. 7pm. Call250.592.7424 for reservations. (www.paprika-bistro.com)

ANNUAL LUND SHELLFISH FESTIVALFrom May 27 - 29, the shores of Lund Harbour are transformed into an outdoor festi-val boasting food vendors selling a variety of freshly cooked oysters, clams, mussels,prawns, and other delights. Festivities include a Chowder Challenge, live music, craftbooths, shellfish sales, art shows, free cooking demonstrations, BCs Best Oysters Com-petition, contests, and kids play area. Lunds Shellfish Festival is handicap accessibleand all waste is recycled (no garbage is produced). (www.lundbc.ca)

JUNETOFINO FOOD AND WINE FESTIVALNow in their 9th year, this festival celebrates the marriage of food and wine, with themain event, Grazing in the Gardens, showcasing local culinary talents and British Co-lumbia wines, in the beautiful Tofino Botanical Gardens. Events of the festival supportseveral non-profit organizations and initiatives, including Tofino Botanical GardensFoundation, Community Childrens Centre and Tofinos Community Garden, Light-

Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead

the concierge desk by Rebecca BaugnietFor more events visit www.eatmagazine.ca

8 EAT MAGAZINE MAY | JUNE 2012 www.eatmagazine.ca MAY | JUNE 2012

food matters by Julie Pegg

Bittersweet GreensOur coach speeds past country fields and lumbers by vacant city lots, back gardensand front yardsspaces one would expect to be lying in dismal February grey. Insteadthey are carpeted in bright green, specked with sunny bits of yellow.A closer look reveals a mass of leafy plants, tipped with small broccoli-like florets.

Some are just breaking flower, hence the yellow. I pluck a leaf. It is tart, peppery andlightly saccharine. (A touch of frost sweetens slightly winter vegetables.)I am touring Italys Umbria and Campania on a wine tourism conference trip. Neither

I, nor my fellow conference compatriots, can figure out what the green is. The Italians,even those who speak English, tell us it is friarelli, which they offer with a shrug thatimplies of course. A friend and ex-pat who lives in Naples enlightens me while hand-ing over a mere euro to a market vendor for three enormous bouquets of the stuff. Weknow friarelli as broccoli raab or rapini, she tells me. It grows here most of the year. Thelocals love it and live on it.Rapine is not broccoli but related to the turnip. It is also not to be confused with

broccolini, which, according to my Food Lovers Companion, is a trademarked namefor a broccoli/Chinese kale hybrid. During our trip, the green appears in delicious dish after delicious dishchucked into

vegetable and white bean soup, or tossed with toasted wheat orecchiette with chickpeas(marvellous) and other pasta dishes. In Naples, it is scattered, instead of summers basil,atop margherita pizza, layered with crushed tomatoes slicked with olive oil and slices ofbuffala mozzarella. Sauted simply with olive oil, generous garlic, chili flakes and/oranchovies, the green is served room temperature on bruschetta, with rosemary-rubbedporchetta or plump sausages. Bitter plays off sweet when friarielli, slow-cooked in broth,partners with guanciale (pigs jowl) braised in red wine until the meat is shreddingtender, the wine reduced to near-syrup.This Italian touchstone has not garnered the popularity in North America that chard

and kale have. Save for the southern U.S. penchant for collard greens, North Americansview it, along with escarole, beet, turnip or dandelion greens, as unpleasantly bitter.

We are missing out.Back in Vancouver, I go looking for friarelli. I come home with a sturdy bunch of dark

green leaved rapini from Commercial Drives Santa Barbara Market. I also happen onorganic rapini in Whole Foods. Thinner stalked, bright green and flecked with tinyyellow blooms, its a dead ringer for the Italian plant. With on-line help, I begin to experiment. A sprinkle of coarse sea salt tempers the

bitterness; so does blanching the greens before sauting. I find that a slow braise reallytames the vegetable but wonder whether it destroys the same powerhouse nutrients thatit shares with kale. My favourite new recipe, using this versatile and nutrient-rich green(vitamin C, folic acid, beta-carotene and lutein among others), follows.

Pasta and Chickpeas with RapiniTrim and chop one large bunch of rapine and steam one minute over a pot of boiling

water. Lift steamer from pot and press the rapini to remove liquid. Set aside. Add morewater to pot. Add salt. Bring to boil. Add a cup or so of whole-wheat pasta. Cook untilal dente (about 10 minutes.) Drain. Set aside.While pasta is cooking, pour a glug of olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add

a tin of chickpeas, drained (or 1 cup dried chickpeas soaked overnight, cooked anddrained). Add a pinch of salt. Saute until chickpeas start to turn golden, about 5minutes. Add 3 cloves finely minced garlic, a few chili flakes and a couple of choppedanchovies (optional). Saute about two minutes. (Do not let garlic burn.) Turn up heatand deglaze with cup of either red or white wine. Add cup chicken or vegetablebroth. Simmer until liquid is nearly reduced.Transfer rapini to chickpea mixture. Add drained noodles and toss the whole lot

together. Divide among four plates for a first course. Drizzle with more oil if desired.Cannelini beans may replace chickpeas, and turnip or beet greens can sub in for

rapini. Italian sausage or pancetta is a nice addition. Falanghina, Fiano (white wines) orAglianico (red wine) from Campania are spot on for rapini recipes.

You Want Fries With That?

Michelle Obama confesses to the addiction. Movie actress Cameron Diaz ranks theFrench fry alongside caviar. In the film Sling Blade, Billy Bob Thornton endeared hischaracter to audiences with I like them French fried potaters. In A Fish Called Wanda,Kevin Kline lauded the chip as the English contribution to world cuisine.The single most cherished dish in western culture? I nominate the frite, its alternate

guises the chip, the fry, even the cretinous freedom fry. That incomparable conflu-ence of potato, hot oil and salt floats through childhood memories, haunts our palatesuntil we ourselves are ready to haunt, and sustains the food chain from mcfood tothe finest bistros in France.(The French have even made a short comic film about the frites obsession. Its titled

Frites, naturally, and can be viewed online at http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xi-icno_frites_fun.)We know about the potato: historically, it was poor mans caviar, poor mans

truffles, poor mans everything. But the French fry was a relative latecomer. AntoineParmentier, Napoleon Bonapartes minister of health, whose great achievement wasconvincing the French that potatoes didnt cause leprosy, didnt invent the frite, afterall. Current thinking places its birth almost a century later, in the aftermath of theFrench Revolution. The birth of the British chip is similarly mysterious, but chips were sold in the town

of Oldham (which also lays claim to Englands first fish and chip shop) in 1860. TheFrench fry first appeared in a U.S. cookbook prior to the American Civil War. Theories can go a little mad. The curator of the Frietmuseum in Brugge, the worlds

only museum dedicated to the fried potato, insists the French fry was the creation ofthe 16th century saint Teresa of vila, whose pickled finger, sitting in a jar in the vilaCathedral, sent me into fits of youthful mirth on my first visit to Spain in 1967.But its true that no one cherishes the fried potato more than the Belgians, who

regard it as a critical component of national character. Belgians swarm streetsidefriteries to get their fix, usually accompanied with a large dollop of mayo or garlickyaioli. Lately, the passion has gone international with Belgian friteries turning up fromTurkey to Thailand. Connoisseurs rush to New York Citys East Village to eat at Pommes Frites, which

proffers Belgian fries with 30 different accompaniments, the more fanciful amongthem Vietnamese pineapple and smoked eggplant mayos. I love the frite so much I once misread a Parisian Bonnes Ftes sign as Pommes

Frites. Ive never eaten a great frite in Paris, and maybe that has something to dowith the McCains boxes overflowing the trash bins of fashionable Parisian restau-rants. McCains is the world leader in the manufacture of frozen fries. Every so oftenI try one hoping to find a hint of potato flavour or a consistency better than congealedsawdust, and come away snarling.The best French fry Ive ever eaten was in a small town in Bariloche, the Argentine

Banff, in an unpretentious restaurant, a Peruvian yellow potato fried, probably, in lard(a few orders fried in lard in the course of the year wont ruin the health).The pursuit of the perfect fry can seem like an impossible dream. The frozen potato

rules, and even when theyre not, theres the question of what potato, traditionalpractice being the cheapest money can buy. Making a great French fry is not a simpleprospect.My Victoria fave by far is Pig BBQ Joint, which for a modest $3.50, serves up a

portion of friesfat, crispy-skinned fries roaring with honest potato flavourgenerous enough to choke a lumberjack. Pig sells 75,000 pounds of fries a year. Whatdoes proprietor Jeff Hetherington do so right?He uses Kennebec potatoes, switching to B.C. whites later in the season when the for-

mer sweetensthe more sugar, the less crisp the potato. He maintains a large fryerexclusively for blanching. He doesnt overload. He gives his potatoes a few hours inthe cooler before the second fry. He seasons with kosher salt and fresh cracked blackpepper.In most places, they rush it, he says, but with fries, its about getting it right every

step of the way. One step poorly done and theyre gonetasteless, mushy, soggy. AtPig, my guys come in early just for prep. You wont see them prepping while theyreserving. Above all, its a labour of love. I love fries, just love em.

epicure at large by Jeremy Ferguson

For the author, the U.S. first lady and a goodly portion ofthe worlds population, the answer is a resounding yes!

Inn at Laurel Point | 680 Montreal St.

250.414.6739 | aurarestaurant.ca

/@AURAVictoria | / AURAwaterfront

ROASTING - EDUCATION - EQUIPMENT - DISTRIBUTION

WWW.OUGHTRED.COM

A FAMILY TRADITION OF BEVERAGE EXCELLENCE SINCE 1973...

[email protected]

A CARBON NEUTRAL COMPANY


food matters by Julie Pegg

Bittersweet GreensOur coach speeds past country fields and lumbers by vacant city lots, back gardensand front yardsspaces one would expect to be lying in dismal February grey. Insteadthey are carpeted in bright green, specked with sunny bits of yellow.A closer look reveals a mass of leafy plants, tipped with small broccoli-like florets.

Some are just breaking flower, hence the yellow. I pluck a leaf. It is tart, peppery andlightly saccharine. (A touch of frost sweetens slightly winter vegetables.)I am touring Italys Umbria and Campania on a wine tourism conference trip. Neither

I, nor my fellow conference compatriots, can figure out what the green is. The Italians,even those who speak English, tell us it is friarelli, which they offer with a shrug thatimplies of course. A friend and ex-pat who lives in Naples enlightens me while hand-ing over a mere euro to a market vendor for three enormous bouquets of the stuff. Weknow friarelli as broccoli raab or rapini, she tells me. It grows here most of the year. Thelocals love it and live on it.Rapine is not broccoli but related to the turnip. It is also not to be confused with

broccolini, which, according to my Food Lovers Companion, is a trademarked namefor a broccoli/Chinese kale hybrid. During our trip, the green appears in delicious dish after delicious dishchucked into

vegetable and white bean soup, or tossed with toasted wheat orecchiette with chickpeas(marvellous) and other pasta dishes. In Naples, it is scattered, instead of summers basil,atop margherita pizza, layered with crushed tomatoes slicked with olive oil and slices ofbuffala mozzarella. Sauted simply with olive oil, generous garlic, chili flakes and/oranchovies, the green is served room temperature on bruschetta, with rosemary-rubbedporchetta or plump sausages. Bitter plays off sweet when friarielli, slow-cooked in broth,partners with guanciale (pigs jowl) braised in red wine until the meat is shreddingtender, the wine reduced to near-syrup.This Italian touchstone has not garnered the popularity in North America that chard

and kale have. Save for the southern U.S. penchant for collard greens, North Americansview it, along with escarole, beet, turnip or dandelion greens, as unpleasantly bitter.

We are missing out.Back in Vancouver, I go looking for friarelli. I come home with a sturdy bunch of dark

green leaved rapini from Commercial Drives Santa Barbara Market. I also happen onorganic rapini in Whole Foods. Thinner stalked, bright green and flecked with tinyyellow blooms, its a dead ringer for the Italian plant. With on-line help, I begin to experiment. A sprinkle of coarse sea salt tempers the

bitterness; so does blanching the greens before sauting. I find that a slow braise reallytames the vegetable but wonder whether it destroys the same powerhouse nutrients thatit shares with kale. My favourite new recipe, using this versatile and nutrient-rich green(vitamin C, folic acid, beta-carotene and lutein among others), follows.

Pasta and Chickpeas with RapiniTrim and chop one large bunch of rapine and steam one minute over a pot of boiling

water. Lift steamer from pot and press the rapini to remove liquid. Set aside. Add morewater to pot. Add salt. Bring to boil. Add a cup or so of whole-wheat pasta. Cook untilal dente (about 10 minutes.) Drain. Set aside.While pasta is cooking, pour a glug of olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add

a tin of chickpeas, drained (or 1 cup dried chickpeas soaked overnight, cooked anddrained). Add a pinch of salt. Saute until chickpeas start to turn golden, about 5minutes. Add 3 cloves finely minced garlic, a few chili flakes and a couple of choppedanchovies (optional). Saute about two minutes. (Do not let garlic burn.) Turn up heatand deglaze with cup of either red or white wine. Add cup chicken or vegetablebroth. Simmer until liquid is nearly reduced.Transfer rapini to chickpea mixture. Add drained noodles and toss the whole lot

together. Divide among four plates for a first course. Drizzle with more oil if desired.Cannelini beans may replace chickpeas, and turnip or beet greens can sub in for

rapini. Italian sausage or pancetta is a nice addition. Falanghina, Fiano (white wines) orAglianico (red wine) from Campania are spot on for rapini recipes.

You Want Fries With That?

Michelle Obama confesses to the addiction. Movie actress Cameron Diaz ranks theFrench fry alongside caviar. In the film Sling Blade, Billy Bob Thornton endeared hischaracter to audiences with I like them French fried potaters. In A Fish Called Wanda,Kevin Kline lauded the chip as the English contribution to world cuisine.The single most cherished dish in western culture? I nominate the frite, its alternate

guises the chip, the fry, even the cretinous freedom fry. That incomparable conflu-ence of potato, hot oil and salt floats through childhood memories, haunts our palatesuntil we ourselves are ready to haunt, and sustains the food chain from mcfood tothe finest bistros in France.(The French have even made a short comic film about the frites obsession. Its titled

Frites, naturally, and can be viewed online at http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xi-icno_frites_fun.)We know about the potato: historically, it was poor mans caviar, poor mans

truffles, poor mans everything. But the French fry was a relative latecomer. AntoineParmentier, Napoleon Bonapartes minister of health, whose great achievement wasconvincing the French that potatoes didnt cause leprosy, didnt invent the frite, afterall. Current thinking places its birth almost a century later, in the aftermath of theFrench Revolution. The birth of the British chip is similarly mysterious, but chips were sold in the town

of Oldham (which also lays claim to Englands first fish and chip shop) in 1860. TheFrench fry first appeared in a U.S. cookbook prior to the American Civil War. Theories can go a little mad. The curator of the Frietmuseum in Brugge, the worlds

only museum dedicated to the fried potato, insists the French fry was the creation ofthe 16th century saint Teresa of vila, whose pickled finger, sitting in a jar in the vilaCathedral, sent me into fits of youthful mirth on my first visit to Spain in 1967.But its true that no one cherishes the fried potato more than the Belgians, who

regard it as a critical component of national character. Belgians swarm streetsidefriteries to get their fix, usually accompanied with a large dollop of mayo or garlickyaioli. Lately, the passion has gone international with Belgian friteries turning up fromTurkey to Thailand. Connoisseurs rush to New York Citys East Village to eat at Pommes Frites, which

proffers Belgian fries with 30 different accompaniments, the more fanciful amongthem Vietnamese pineapple and smoked eggplant mayos. I love the frite so much I once misread a Parisian Bonnes Ftes sign as Pommes

Frites. Ive never eaten a great frite in Paris, and maybe that has something to dowith the McCains boxes overflowing the trash bins of fashionable Parisian restau-rants. McCains is the world leader in the manufacture of frozen fries. Every so oftenI try one hoping to find a hint of potato flavour or a consistency better than congealedsawdust, and come away snarling.The best French fry Ive ever eaten was in a small town in Bariloche, the Argentine

Banff, in an unpretentious restaurant, a Peruvian yellow potato fried, probably, in lard(a few orders fried in lard in the course of the year wont ruin the health).The pursuit of the perfect fry can seem like an impossible dream. The frozen potato

rules, and even when theyre not, theres the question of what potato, traditionalpractice being the cheapest money can buy. Making a great French fry is not a simpleprospect.My Victoria fave by far is Pig BBQ Joint, which for a modest $3.50, serves up a

portion of friesfat, crispy-skinned fries roaring with honest potato flavourgenerous enough to choke a lumberjack. Pig sells 75,000 pounds of fries a year. Whatdoes proprietor Jeff Hetherington do so right?He uses Kennebec potatoes, switching to B.C. whites later in the season when the for-

mer sweetensthe more sugar, the less crisp the potato. He maintains a large fryerexclusively for blanching. He doesnt overload. He gives his potatoes a few hours inthe cooler before the second fry. He seasons with kosher salt and fresh cracked blackpepper.In most places, they rush it, he says, but with fries, its about getting it right every

step of the way. One step poorly done and theyre gonetasteless, mushy, soggy. AtPig, my guys come in early just for prep. You wont see them prepping while theyreserving. Above all, its a labour of love. I love fries, just love em.

epicure at large by Jeremy Ferguson

For the author, the U.S. first lady and a goodly portion ofthe worlds population, the answer is a resounding yes!

Julie Pegg travels to Umbria and encounters a plentiful, nutritious and delicious winter green wherever she goes.

Inn at Laurel Point | 680 Montreal St.

250.414.6739 | aurarestaurant.ca

/@AURAVictoria | / AURAwaterfront

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Make your next group dinner one to remember

463 Belleville Street, Victoria BC

Enjoy award winning

food while presenting

your next great idea.

Let us help you

make your Mark.

Call 250-380-4458 to

make a reservation.

THEABCSOFBRUNCHWITHUS

EVERYSATURDAY&SUNDAY

AMAZINGVIEW

BESTSERVICEINTOWNCONVENIENTFREEPARKING

CALLFORINFORMATION&RESERVATIONS250360LURE(5873)

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With his trimmed beard and erect posture, the Marina Restaurants executive chefMatt Rissling projects a young sea captains calm confidence. Since taking over asexecutive chef at the 160-seat Oak Bay landmark in 2009, Rissling has built a kitchenstaff capable of producing consistent, quality meals at the beautiful, sprawling, seasideroom.Its a wonderfully talented and committed kitchen crew, Rissling enthused as we

visit in his restaurants sushi bar. From youngsters to our double-Red Seal pastry chef,its a great team. Most of the staff of 22 are long-term employees, five- to 10-yearveterans at the Marina who dont even need to talk while turning out 80 plates anhour.As we visited, Rissling was mentally preparing for 1,000 guests at a daunting, two-

day Easter brunch and dinner offering.A self-described Gordon Head kid, Rissling was inspired by his mother and aunts

unfussy cooking styles and seminal television chefs like Julia Child, Graham Kerr andJames Barber. He started working in local commercial kitchens as a teenager andbecame a line cook at Chandlers and Milestones, where he was drilled in systems,standards, efficiency, organization and consistency. It was great training, Risslingexplained, but my next job at the Marriott Inner Harbour was the real eye-opener.At the Marriotts Fire and Water, executive chef David Roger and chefs Andrew

Dickinson and Jeff Keenliside taught Rissling what it takes to produce much higherend, more intricate cooking. He followed Keenliside to the Marina a year later andserved as his sous-chef. Jeff taught me to build relationships with the people you buy from. Ive learned to

buy great stuff and dont touch it too much. Its important to show respect for theproducts and the people who produce it.Today, Im excited about the prospect of working with some black cod that came

in from Finest At Sea, some nice 8-10 pounders, and Ill use the frames [the heads,tails and bones for stock]. Satellite, some day-boat guys out of Sidney, deliver live soleand flounder, and I get oysters direct from up-Island oyster farmer Holly Wood. Ivegot a crab guy and a mushroom guy and a guy who trucks in large quantities of fruitand vegetables from the Okanagan. Local sources are the best and coincidentally themost sustainable products.A former member of the Vic West Food Security Collective who helped establish the

edible organic garden at Banfield Park, Rissling now gardens his Saanich townhousesgrounds in his spare time.My garlic is six inches tall already! Its a sixth generation crop from an original

garlic bulb. Weve got a nine-year-old and a ten-year-old, so we grow strawberries,tomatoes, peas, carrots and radishes. All my kale and chard is already gone. The kidseat it like candy.

The Marinas Matt RisslingThe Victoria native loves the challenge of this 160-seat landmark room.

chef profile by Joseph BlakeRebecca W

ellman

Perfec tly placedto make

f ine wine and good fr iends.

tinhorn.com

grilled rare albacore tuna with wheat berries,castelvetrano olives, salted pepita crisp, maceratedshallot and parsley salad.


Make your next group dinner one to remember

463 Belleville Street, Victoria BC

Enjoy award winning

food while presenting

your next great idea.

Let us help you

make your Mark.

Call 250-380-4458 to

make a reservation.

Do we take reservations? Yes we do!

For quick and easy reservations go to

zambris.ca

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k and easy reservor quicFFor quic

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With his trimmed beard and erect posture, the Marina Restaurants executive chefMatt Rissling projects a young sea captains calm confidence. Since taking over asexecutive chef at the 160-seat Oak Bay landmark in 2009, Rissling has built a kitchenstaff capable of producing consistent, quality meals at the beautiful, sprawling, seasideroom.Its a wonderfully talented and committed kitchen crew, Rissling enthused as we

visit in his restaurants sushi bar. From youngsters to our double-Red Seal pastry chef,its a great team. Most of the staff of 22 are long-term employees, five- to 10-yearveterans at the Marina who dont even need to talk while turning out 80 plates anhour.As we visited, Rissling was mentally preparing for 1,000 guests at a daunting, two-

day Easter brunch and dinner offering.A self-described Gordon Head kid, Rissling was inspired by his mother and aunts

unfussy cooking styles and seminal television chefs like Julia Child, Graham Kerr andJames Barber. He started working in local commercial kitchens as a teenager andbecame a line cook at Chandlers and Milestones, where he was drilled in systems,standards, efficiency, organization and consistency. It was great training, Risslingexplained, but my next job at the Marriott Inner Harbour was the real eye-opener.At the Marriotts Fire and Water, executive chef David Roger and chefs Andrew

Dickinson and Jeff Keenliside taught Rissling what it takes to produce much higherend, more intricate cooking. He followed Keenliside to the Marina a year later andserved as his sous-chef. Jeff taught me to build relationships with the people you buy from. Ive learned to

buy great stuff and dont touch it too much. Its important to show respect for theproducts and the people who produce it.Today, Im excited about the prospect of working with some black cod that came

in from Finest At Sea, some nice 8-10 pounders, and Ill use the frames [the heads,tails and bones for stock]. Satellite, some day-boat guys out of Sidney, deliver live soleand flounder, and I get oysters direct from up-Island oyster farmer Holly Wood. Ivegot a crab guy and a mushroom guy and a guy who trucks in large quantities of fruitand vegetables from the Okanagan. Local sources are the best and coincidentally themost sustainable products.A former member of the Vic West Food Security Collective who helped establish the

edible organic garden at Banfield Park, Rissling now gardens his Saanich townhousesgrounds in his spare time.My garlic is six inches tall already! Its a sixth generation crop from an original

garlic bulb. Weve got a nine-year-old and a ten-year-old, so we grow strawberries,tomatoes, peas, carrots and radishes. All my kale and chard is already gone. The kidseat it like candy.

The Marinas Matt RisslingThe Victoria native loves the challenge of this 160-seat landmark room.

chef profile by Joseph Blake

Rebecca Wellm

an

Perfec tly placedto make

f ine wine and good fr iends.

tinhorn.com


I have often contemplated hosting a potluck dinner with a monochromatic colourtheme. For a purple motif, guests could riff on dishes containing purple cauliflower,potatoes, carrots, cabbage, peppers, asparagus, grapes, plums and blueberries. An all-white wedding supperfeaturing white cauliflower, halibut, white truffles, enoki andwhite asparagus, with mangosteen pavlova for dessertwould be trs chic. At theceremony, the groom would sport a miniature cauliflower boutonniere and the bridewould walk down the aisle carrying an elegant bouquet nestled in its own ornateveined greenery: a head of raw cream-coloured cauliflower, trailing the faint scent ofsmelly socks. If you love cauliflower as much as I do, join me as I take the concept a step further

and fantasize an all-cauliflower dinner. It would start with cauliflower pear hazelnutsalad and ensalada de coliflor (cooked cauliflower drizzled with avocado, lemon juiceand ground almond sauce). The soup would have to be dreamy creamy cauliflowersoup, made with crumbled Stilton cheese, heavy cream, leeks, celery, potatoes, onions,garlic and dry sherry, with generous dollops of sour cream in each bowl. For the maincourse: lamb and cauliflower tajine made with chilies, garlic and saffron. Side disheswould include aloo gobi (spicy potatoes and cauliflower); cauliflower souffl; roastedcauliflower dry-rubbed with crushed fennel seeds, dried chilies, peppercorns andcoriander; high-rise savoury cauliflower cake (with herbs, spices and Parmesan cheese,baked in a springform pan) and chou-fleur du Barry, a creamy cauliflower/potato dishwith oodles of ladles of beurre meunire, from a recipe created for the 18th-centuryFrench gourmand, Madame du Barry, chief mistress to King Louis XV. For dessert:triple-layer cauliflower, ricotta and raspberry mini-cheesecakes with an almond crust,or another sweet created by competitors in the cauliflower challenge.Here is a fascinating factoid about cauliflower and its superfood cabbage family kin:

they were all derived from colewort, an ancient, loose-leafed wild cabbage that stillgrows wild in coastal Europe. Colewort buds became Brussels sprouts, its flowersbecame broccoli and cauliflower, its leaves became kale and collard greens, its stem wastransformed into kohlrabi and its root turned into the turnip.Cauliflowers pretty little head is composed of immature, unopened flower buds

called curds. When the florets begin growing, farmers wrap each head of whitecauliflower in its own leaves and secure the foliage with rubber bands or twine toshade it from the sun. This blanching technique preserves the whiteness of thecurds. The head swells and sweetens in the cocoon of its leaves until it is harvested.Self-blanching cauliflower varieties have leaves that fold over the heads withoutassistance. Orange and purple cauliflowers do not require this parasol approach.A list of local farms that sell cauliflower can be accessed at islandfarmfresh.com/

products/Cauliflower. To grow your own, start seedlings indoors until mid-June andtransplant them to the vegetable patch in six weeks. Cauliflower can be harvested twomonths after transplanting. Be sure to try the colourful cauliflowers that are available. Purple varieties turn green

when cooked, and orange ones, like Cheddar Cheese, retain their colour. Italiancauli-fiori varieties include purple, brown and yellow cultivars and Romanescacauliflowers with complex, coral-like lime-green heads. Broccoflower, a broccoli/cauliflower cross, has a chartreuse head and tastes like both its ancestors. Imagine acauliflower crudit platter with multicoloured florets and multicoloured dips. Nowthats using your pretty little head!

get fresh COOKING BY THE SEASON by Sylvia Weinstock

Cauliflower Creations

2 Tbsp peanut oil or ghee red onion, thinly sliced1 clove garlic, minced1 medium-sized cauliflower, broken intobite-size pieces1 lb. asparagus cut into 1-inch pieces red bell pepper, julienne1 fresh red chili pepper, thinly slicedSea salt to taste

tsp turmeric tsp black pepperHeat oil (or ghee) in a wok over medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic and sautuntil tender. Add cauliflower, mix well andcook until just tender. Add asparagus andstir-fry until tender. Add red bell pepper,sliced chili, salt, turmeric and pepper.Combine and cook 10 minutes.

Thai Cauliflower and Asparagus Stir-fryTamara Bailey, chef/owner of Caf Ceylon, an Ayurvedic restaurant in Victoria, created

this delicious vegetarian dish, which can be served with rice or noodles.

EAT magazine May + June 2012 edition

1SPVE4VQQPSUFSTPG#$"MCFSUB'BSNFSTBOE1SPEVDFST

good for you by Pam Durkin

Going with the GrainThese four nutritious foods have all the health

benefits of whole grains without the gluten.

Nutritional research provides irrefutable evidence regarding the health benefits ofwhole grains. But if youre avoiding glutenthe protein found in wheat, rye, barley,spelt, kamut and triticaleyou may be finding it difficult to incorporate whole-graingoodness into your diet. Enjoying the following nutrient-dense, gluten-free grainson a regular basis can easily surmount that difficulty. Theyll deliver great taste andunsurpassed nutrition whether youre eating gluten-freeor not.

MilletYou may know millet as the tiny yellow grain found in birdseed. But itscertainly not just for the birds. Rich in B vitamins, calcium, magnesium, potassiumand zinc, millet also has the highest iron content of any cereal grain. In addition, itsa good source of disease-fighting carotenoids. Millets sweet, mild flavour is suitable inboth sweet and savoury dishes. Try millet as porridge with dried fruit and nuts or inpilafs, stews, casseroles or puddings. A great site to visit for millet recipes iswww.latartinegourmand.com. Beatrice Peltres Globe Zucchini Stuffed with Millet andVegetables is positively scrumptious. Another exemplary example of millets gourmetworthy statusthe millet fritters at Vancouvers Bluewater Caf.

QuinoaTechnically its not a grain at all; its a member of the goosefoot family likeits botanical cousin spinach. Pronounced keen wah, this pseudo-grain is renowned forits impressive nutritional profile and intriguing taste and texture. High in B vitamins,vitamin E, iron, calcium, magnesium, phosphorous and potassium, it is also a goodsource of protein, unlike most grains. When cooked, quinoa has a texture that is oddlycreamy and crunchy at the same timesimilar perhaps to al dente pasta. Quinoasdelicate nutty flavour makes it an appealing replacement for rice in most dishes, bethey entres or desserts. And I have made marvellous fruit crumbles, cookies andcereals with quinoa flakes a relatively new supermarket item. But my favouritequinoa creation is Bubbys Kitchens undeniably delicious Chocolate Quinoa Sand-wichesa decadent dark-chocolate whoopie cake miraculously made with whole grainquinoa. AmaranthA relative of the common pigweed, amaranth was a staple in the diets

of the Mayans and Incas for thousands of years. The plant is not a grain at all, its anannual herb, but it produces seeds that fall under the pseudo-grain category in theculinary world. Though tiny in size, the seeds pack a nutritional punch unrivalledamong cereal grains. Amaranth is teeming with protein, fibre, B vitamins, iron,calcium, magnesium and potassium. And unlike other grains, its also a rich source ofessential fatty acids, including oleic acid, the heart-healthy EFA normally associatedwith olive oil.Thankfully, amaranths profile also includes a delicious malty flavour that lends

itself to multiple uses in the kitchen. The seeds are normally simmered in liquid likeother grains, but they can also be popped like popcorn. In Mexico, the popped seedsare mixed with molasses to make a crunchy snack called alegrias. I make a similarenergizing nibble by mixing popped amaranth with honey, dried fruit, nuts andpumpkin seeds.

BuckwheatDespite its misleading name, buckwheat contains no wheat and isactually a fruit seed related to rhubarb. Commonly ground into flour for use inpancakes and crpes, whole buckwheat is sold either unroasted or roastedthe lattermost often referred to as kasha. Unroasted buckwheat has a soft, subtle flavour whileroasted buckwheat has more of a robust, nutty taste often used in hearty, EasternEuropean dishes. Like the other pseudo-grains listed, buckwheat is a rich source ofvitamins, minerals and fibre and is particularly abundant in cancer-thwartingflavanoids like quercetin and rutin. Simmered in apple juice, with raisins and ginger,buckwheat makes a nutritious porridge, but it can also bring a unique taste to cabbagerolls, soups, stews or salads. For the ultimate buckwheat experience, I recommendstarting your day with Caf Blisss Apple Cinnamon Sprouted Buckwheat Granola.


I have often contemplated hosting a potluck dinner with a monochromatic colourtheme. For a purple motif, guests could riff on dishes containing purple cauliflower,potatoes, carrots, cabbage, peppers, asparagus, grapes, plums and blueberries. An all-white wedding supperfeaturing white cauliflower, halibut, white truffles, enoki andwhite asparagus, with mangosteen pavlova for dessertwould be trs chic. At theceremony, the groom would sport a miniature cauliflower boutonniere and the bridewould walk down the aisle carrying an elegant bouquet nestled in its own ornateveined greenery: a head of raw cream-coloured cauliflower, trailing the faint scent ofsmelly socks. If you love cauliflower as much as I do, join me as I take the concept a step further

and fantasize an all-cauliflower dinner. It would start with cauliflower pear hazelnutsalad and ensalada de coliflor (cooked cauliflower drizzled with avocado, lemon juiceand ground almond sauce). The soup would have to be dreamy creamy cauliflowersoup, made with crumbled Stilton cheese, heavy cream, leeks, celery, potatoes, onions,garlic and dry sherry, with generous dollops of sour cream in each bowl. For the maincourse: lamb and cauliflower tajine made with chilies, garlic and saffron. Side disheswould include aloo gobi (spicy potatoes and cauliflower); cauliflower souffl; roastedcauliflower dry-rubbed with crushed fennel seeds, dried chilies, peppercorns andcoriander; high-rise savoury cauliflower cake (with herbs, spices and Parmesan cheese,baked in a springform pan) and chou-fleur du Barry, a creamy cauliflower/potato dishwith oodles of ladles of beurre meunire, from a recipe created for the 18th-centuryFrench gourmand, Madame du Barry, chief mistress to King Louis XV. For dessert:triple-layer cauliflower, ricotta and raspberry mini-cheesecakes with an almond crust,or another sweet created by competitors in the cauliflower challenge.Here is a fascinating factoid about cauliflower and its superfood cabbage family kin:

they were all derived from colewort, an ancient, loose-leafed wild cabbage that stillgrows wild in coastal Europe. Colewort buds became Brussels sprouts, its flowersbecame broccoli and cauliflower, its leaves became kale and collard greens, its stem wastransformed into kohlrabi and its root turned into the turnip.Cauliflowers pretty little head is composed of immature, unopened flower buds

called curds. When the florets begin growing, farmers wrap each head of whitecauliflower in its own leaves and secure the foliage with rubber bands or twine toshade it from the sun. This blanching technique preserves the whiteness of thecurds. The head swells and sweetens in the cocoon of its leaves until it is harvested.Self-blanching cauliflower varieties have leaves that fold over the heads withoutassistance. Orange and purple cauliflowers do not require this parasol approach.A list of local farms that sell cauliflower can be accessed at islandfarmfresh.com/

products/Cauliflower. To grow your own, start seedlings indoors until mid-June andtransplant them to the vegetable patch in six weeks. Cauliflower can be harvested twomonths after transplanting. Be sure to try the colourful cauliflowers that are available. Purple varieties turn green

when cooked, and orange ones, like Cheddar Cheese, retain their colour. Italiancauli-fiori varieties include purple, brown and yellow cultivars and Romanescacauliflowers with complex, coral-like lime-green heads. Broccoflower, a broccoli/cauliflower cross, has a chartreuse head and tastes like both its ancestors. Imagine acauliflower crudit platter with multicoloured florets and multicoloured dips. Nowthats using your pretty little head!

get fresh COOKING BY THE SEASON by Sylvia Weinstock

Cauliflower Creations

2 Tbsp peanut oil or ghee red onion, thinly sliced1 clove garlic, minced1 medium-sized cauliflower, broken intobite-size pieces1 lb. asparagus cut into 1-inch pieces red bell pepper, julienne1 fresh red chili pepper, thinly slicedSea salt to taste

tsp turmeric tsp black pepperHeat oil (or ghee) in a wok over medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic and sautuntil tender. Add cauliflower, mix well andcook until just tender. Add asparagus andstir-fry until tender. Add red bell pepper,sliced chili, salt, turmeric and pepper.Combine and cook 10 minutes.

Thai Cauliflower and Asparagus Stir-fryTamara Bailey, chef/owner of Caf Ceylon, an Ayurvedic restaurant in Victoria, created

this delicious vegetarian dish, which can be served with rice or noodles.

good for you by Pam Durkin

Going with the GrainThese four nutritious foods have all the health

benefits of whole grains without the gluten.

Nutritional research provides irrefutable evidence regarding the health benefits ofwhole grains. But if youre avoiding glutenthe protein found in wheat, rye, barley,spelt, kamut and triticaleyou may be finding it difficult to incorporate whole-graingoodness into your diet. Enjoying the following nutrient-dense, gluten-free grainson a regular basis can easily surmount that difficulty. Theyll deliver great taste andunsurpassed nutrition whether youre eating gluten-freeor not.

MilletYou may know millet as the tiny yellow grain found in birdseed. But itscertainly not just for the birds. Rich in B vitamins, calcium, magnesium, potassiumand zinc, millet also has the highest iron content of any cereal grain. In addition, itsa good source of disease-fighting carotenoids. Millets sweet, mild flavour is suitable inboth sweet and savoury dishes. Try millet as porridge with dried fruit and nuts or inpilafs, stews, casseroles or puddings. A great site to visit for millet recipes iswww.latartinegourmand.com. Beatrice Peltres Globe Zucchini Stuffed with Millet andVegetables is positively scrumptious. Another exemplary example of millets gourmetworthy statusthe millet fritters at Vancouvers Bluewater Caf.

QuinoaTechnically its not a grain at all; its a member of the goosefoot family likeits botanical cousin spinach. Pronounced keen wah, this pseudo-grain is renowned forits impressive nutritional profile and intriguing taste and texture. High in B vitamins,vitamin E, iron, calcium, magnesium, phosphorous and potassium, it is also a goodsource of protein, unlike most grains. When cooked, quinoa has a texture that is oddlycreamy and crunchy at the same timesimilar perhaps to al dente pasta. Quinoasdelicate nutty flavour makes it an appealing replacement for rice in most dishes, bethey entres or desserts. And I have made marvellous fruit crumbles, cookies andcereals with quinoa flakes a relatively new supermarket item. But my favouritequinoa creation is Bubbys Kitchens undeniably delicious Chocolate Quinoa Sand-wichesa decadent dark-chocolate whoopie cake miraculously made with whole grainquinoa. AmaranthA relative of the common pigweed, amaranth was a staple in the diets

of the Mayans and Incas for thousands of years. The plant is not a grain at all, its anannual herb, but it produces seeds that fall under the pseudo-grain category in theculinary world. Though tiny in size, the seeds pack a nutritional punch unrivalledamong cereal grains. Amaranth is teeming with protein, fibre, B vitamins, iron,calcium, magnesium and potassium. And unlike other grains, its also a rich source ofessential fatty acids, including oleic acid, the heart-healthy EFA normally associatedwith olive oil.Thankfully, amaranths profile also includes a delicious malty flavour that lends

itself to multiple uses in the kitchen. The seeds are normally simmered in liquid likeother grains, but they can also be popped like popcorn. In Mexico, the popped seedsare mixed with molasses to make a crunchy snack called alegrias. I make a similarenergizing nibble by mixing popped amaranth with honey, dried fruit, nuts andpumpkin seeds.

BuckwheatDespite its misleading name, buckwheat contains no wheat and isactually a fruit seed related to rhubarb. Commonly ground into flour for use inpancakes and crpes, whole buckwheat is sold either unroasted or roastedthe lattermost often referred to as kasha. Unroasted buckwheat has a soft, subtle flavour whileroasted buckwheat has more of a robust, nutty taste often used in hearty, EasternEuropean dishes. Like the other pseudo-grains listed, buckwheat is a rich source ofvitamins, minerals and fibre and is particularly abundant in cancer-thwartingflavanoids like quercetin and rutin. Simmered in apple juice, with raisins and ginger,buckwheat makes a nutritious porridge, but it can also bring a unique taste to cabbagerolls, soups, stews or salads. For the ultimate buckwheat experience, I recommendstarting your day with Caf Blisss Apple Cinnamon Sprouted Buckwheat Granola.

OB 5140 Oak Bay Marine GroupEat Magazine 4.375" x 9.8125"prepared January 25, 2011

250-598-8555

www.marinarestaurant.com

1327 Beach Drive at the Oak Bay Marina

Stunning Views Lunch Dinner Sushi Sunday Brunch

A Local Story.

Eric Whitehead of Untamed Feast watches the forest fire season closely and quietly, planning his next move. A few months later he disappears deep into coastal BC forests and emerges with baskets of fire morels we use in our creations.

Wilderness locations and hard hiking. Just one of the stories that make up our plates each day.

www.knif

ewear.com Where chefs, foodies andknife nerds shop

high performance Japanese kitchen knives

coming soon

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www.knif

ewear.com Where chefs, foodies andknife nerds shop

high performance Japanese kitchen knives

coming soon

to Kelowna, S

outh Pandos

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2983 Pandosy

Street Kelown

a, BComing sooming so

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Four locations to serve you

Victoria: University Heights Mall, Tuscany Village, Brentwood Bay Kelowna: Downtown Cultural District | metroliquor.com

Share your story and win! facebook.com/metroliquorstores

twitter.com/metroliquor

The whole beast

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The Rooftop Surfclub at The Strathcona HotelDouglas at Courtney strathconahotel.com

All ocean wise fresh fish arriving daily on the Rooftop!

New Menu, Great Drinks...Amazing Rooftop!

SUMM

ER H

APPE

NS H

ERE

This column could be more aptly titled Second Look since Smoken Bones has

relaunched itself in a 200-capacity downtown restaurant following its first

incarnation as a small-but-vastly-popular Langford eatery. Now situated in the

gentrified Hudson building on Douglas Street, the new Smoken Bones Cookshack held

its grand opening in February and is now open for finger-licking southern-style lunch

and dinner daily.

The new space is surprisingly large, with concrete floors, high ceilings and wall-to-

wall windows just above street level. Constructed almost entirely by owner Ken

Hueston, chef John Brooks and several of their friends, the new Smoken Bones is truly

a labour of love, right down to the hand-upholstered tabletops.

As for atmosphere, imagine a non-corporate, non-kitschy, locally owned version of

the cookhouse-style chain (often seen near movie theatres) they hate being likened to.

Oh, and kick the menu up about 10 notches in the excitement department and add a

soul food twist. As much as Brooks may loathe the comparison, for those of us secretly

fond of the unnamed cookhouse-style chain restaurant, we now have no need to ever

go back.

The food lineup has changed somewhat from Smoken Bones previous location to

reflect the new situation. Previews from Chef Brooks current menu include charbroiled

pork sausage, fried fish with Bayou swamp sauce, fried pickles, hushpuppies, clam and

bacon sandwich, andof courseribs with sides of mac n cheese, candied carrots,

Kennebec fries or butter-fried cabbage. Top off the meal with a flourless mud cake,

banana pudding with bourbon whip, or bacon ice cream.

If those samples seem heavy on the calories, its probably truenothing that a few

hundred laps around the heritage building wont fix. However, there are also several

fresh, lighter salads and three soups to balance out the menus richer features or sat-

isfy the resident dieter in your group. As one would expect from an ex-Camilles chef,

everything is made in-house, right down to the bacon and sausageseverything that

is except the ketchup, of which Brooks says breathlessly, Ill get around to it when

I have time!

By Deanna Ladret

Note: Smoken Bones holds special food days like Sausage Saturdays, Thank Cod Its Friday

and Sloppy Joe Wednesdays. Phone for details.

Smoken Bones Cookshack | 7-1701 Douglas StreetVictoria, BC (250) 391-6328 | smokenbones.ca

First Look

Elizabeth Nyland

From left to right: Kelly Hueston, John Brooks and Ken Hueston. John's Sausage(Charbroiled Sausage) with Beer-jon mustard and coleslaw.

victoria


The Rooftop Surfclub at The Strathcona HotelDouglas at Courtney strathconahotel.com

All ocean wise fresh fish arriving daily on the Rooftop!

New Menu, Great Drinks...Amazing Rooftop!

SUMM

ER H

APPE

NS H

ERE

SUMM

ER H

APPE

NS H

ERE

SUMM

ER H

APPE

NS H

ERE

SUMM

ER H

APPE

NS H

ERE

SUMM

ER H

APPE

NS H

ERE

SUMM

ER H

APPE

NS H

ERE

This column could be more aptly titled Second Look since Smoken Bones has

relaunched itself in a 200-capacity downtown restaurant following its first

incarnation as a small-but-vastly-popular Langford eatery. Now situated in the

gentrified Hudson building on Douglas Street, the new Smoken Bones Cookshack held

its grand opening in February and is now open for finger-licking southern-style lunch

and dinner daily.

The new space is surprisingly large, with concrete floors, high ceilings and wall-to-

wall windows just above street level. Constructed almost entirely by owner Ken

Hueston, chef John Brooks and several of their friends, the new Smoken Bones is truly

a labour of love, right down to the hand-upholstered tabletops.

As for atmosphere, imagine a non-corporate, non-kitschy, locally owned version of

the cookhouse-style chain (often seen near movie theatres) they hate being likened to.

Oh, and kick the menu up about 10 notches in the excitement department and add a

soul food twist. As much as Brooks may loathe the comparison, for those of us secretly

fond of the unnamed cookhouse-style chain restaurant, we now have no need to ever

go back.

The food lineup has changed somewhat from Smoken Bones previous location to

reflect the new situation. Previews from Chef Brooks current menu include charbroiled

pork sausage, fried fish with Bayou swamp sauce, fried pickles, hushpuppies, clam and

bacon sandwich, andof courseribs with sides of mac n cheese, candied carrots,

Kennebec fries or butter-fried cabbage. Top off the meal with a flourless mud cake,

banana pudding with bourbon whip, or bacon ice cream.

If those samples seem heavy on the calories, its probably truenothing that a few

hundred laps around the heritage building wont fix. However, there are also several

fresh, lighter salads and three soups to balance out the menus richer features or sat-

isfy the resident dieter in your group. As one would expect from an ex-Camilles chef,

everything is made in-house, right down to the bacon and sausageseverything that

is except the ketchup, of which Brooks says breathlessly, Ill get around to it when

I have time!

By Deanna Ladret

Note: Smoken Bones holds special food days like Sausage Saturdays, Thank Cod Its Friday

and Sloppy Joe Wednesdays. Phone for details.

Smoken Bones Cookshack | 7-1701 Douglas StreetVictoria, BC (250) 391-6328 | smokenbones.ca

Elizabeth Nyland

From left to right: Kelly Hueston, John Brooks and Ken Hueston. John's Sausage(Charbroiled Sausage) with Beer-jon mustard and coleslaw.

victoria


Eating Well for Less by Elizabeth Smyth

The Black Hat by Bistro 28, 1005 Langley St atBroughton, www.theblackcat.ca, 250.381.2428The sleek and sophisticated venue of The Black Hat is now open for decadent anddelicious lunches, some of which slide nicely into the parameters of a $13 and underlunch budget. Many of these lunches share a witticism: a creative and sometimesluxurious food hides behind the wink of a prosaic name. Take the B.L.T for example.The B doesnt stand for bacon; it stands for braised pork belly. This rich cut ofmeat is essentially candied in terms of texture; it is braised then deep-fried, creating aseared bacon-like exterior around the rich, soft, creamy meat interior. It is then tossedin star anise, black pepper, and salt. This concoction is then paired with smokedtomato jam and the light zing of arugula for the sexiest BLT Ive ever had. The funni-est name on the menu, especially given the subtle elegance of the surroundings, is thestarkly worded Hot Dog. Needless to say, it is a far cry from the fare at summer camp.This one is made from a house-made puree of chicken and pork. It is twice as long asthe conventional ones, and is served in a pretzel bun that is a knockout soft breadwith a golden brown exterior brushed with salt. This hotdog comes beautifullyplated, angled on an pristine oblong dish, flanked by a pickled salad of celeriac,Chinese cabbage, red onion, and celery, and on the other side, uniformly crisp thinfries infused with the flavour of truffles. Both the above dishes cost $13. NewMexican Chili for $11 for a large bowl also contained a surprise it is thickened withpumpkin seeds. This chili is lovingly prepared with meat so tender it has softened andshredded. The pinto beans in it have retained a toothsome bite. The bread that comeswith it is grilled, which some people like, but I find it imparts a slightly burned taste.Overall, going to the Black Hat for lunch is a chance to enjoy sexy food in a hot newrestaurant.ting us practice our French.

La Taquisa, 120-176 Wilson St near Save-On Foods,www.lataquisa.com, 250.590.6588La Taquisa is best known as a Mexican cart in Cook St. Village; I, however, went to theirnewer Westside Village location across the Bay Street. While most people take theirfood out, it is perfectly comfortable for a quick sit-down meal, with an attractive woodbar along a large plate glass window. Granted, the view is of a parking lot, but thatsoutside their control! The food was definitely all affordable. The reality Iveexperienced when travelling in Mexico is that some food is tasty and some food is

The Black Hat - left: The "Hot Dog" with kimchi and truffled fries. right: Brian Bekkema (foreground), John Paul Turrinos (background)

simple to the point of bland. I experienced this at La Taquisa too. Following are thetasty dishes I enjoyed there. The tortilla soup is a thick, rich mix of tomatoes, onion,garlic, and chicken stock seasoned with oregano. The trick is to reach down with yourspoon and scoop up the layer of tortilla on the bottom to get it mixed in. This is afavourite with the children of their clientele as well, and is priced at $6 for 16 ouncesand $4 for 12 ounces. Talking about children, I am extremely grateful for their que-sadilla priced at $2. Its just a corn tortilla and mozzarella, nothing more, but that hitsthe mark for some toddlers. Also worth targeting is the chicken mole, whether its ina taco or burrito. Mole recipes vary wildly from region to region; this one includeschocolate, bread, chicken stock, cinnamon and cloves, creating a rich, exotic flavour.The corn tortillas are rolled out and grilled fresh to ord

eat magazine may | june 2012

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