eat magazine nov | dec 2009

L o c a l | S u s t a i n a b l e | F r e s h | S e a s o n a l

Novem

ber|Decem

berl2009|Issue

13-06|THISCOPYISFREE

R E S T A U R A N T S | R E C I P E S | W I N E S | C U L I N A R Y T R A V E L

www.eatm

agazine.ca

100%food&wine

CHRISTMAS DESSERTS

ISLAND GRAIN REVIVALNEW LOCAL FOOD HERORESTAURANTS, WINES& NEWS

�

�

“Revolutionshave

startedwhen

theprice

offoodbecom

esunaffordable.”

—Sharon

RempelHOLIDAY ISSUE

magazine

YOUR DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO THE FOOD & DRINKOF VICTORIA & VANCOUVER ISLAND

eat this tourtière!pg.25

for people who love to cook

BBrrooaaddmmeeaadd VViillllaaggee,, VViiccttoorriiaa113300--777777 RRooyyaall OOaakk DDrriivvee

225500--772277--22111100

Bridal Registry Available

Hilborn Pottery Design,owned and operated by Rickand Nancy Hilborn, has beenproducing Canadian hand-made pottery since 1975.

Hilborn Pottery offersexceptional quality anddesign in it’s hand-madeceramic pots, that are foodand drink safe as well asoven, micro-wave and dish-washer proof.

eatm

Contribut

CommunityVictoria: KaTofino | Ucl

ContributoGillie EasdonTracey KusiewMorris, TimRing, Kira RRebecca WePublisher PAdvertisingLorraine Br250.384.90All departmBox 5225, Vwww.eatmaSince 1998 |reproduced witPacific Island Gopinions expreIsland Gourmet

ConciergeIsland GraEpicure atArtisansLocal HerGood for YChefs TalkVictoria RHoliday DCover RecLocal KitcWhat’s inFood MattThe BC FoLiquid AssIsland WiHoliday W

With 2009 drawing to a close I’d liketo take the opportunity to wisheveryone a merry holiday and happyNew Year. I would also like to thankreaders, advertisers and contributorsfor their continued support. Without

you EAT would not exist. I feel very fortunate thatthere is a such strong sense of community onVancouver Island—the many events and festivals Iattended this year certainly confirm this.

I am as committed now to supporting the localfood and cuisine scene as when I was just a newbieeditor, full of idealism, starting up the magazine.My goal was, and still is, to produce a 100% localfood and wine magazine (owned and written bylocals). My door is always open to fresh ideas onhow I can continue my support. Give me a call,send an email or stop me on the street (after allwe’re not too big city that we won’t be running intoeach other).All the best in 2010 - Gary Hynes

3www.eatmagazine.ca NOV | DECEMBER 2009

Reservations 250-544-2079849 Verdier Ave, Brentwood Bay brentwoodbaylodge.com

the gourmet sleepover $119*

*Gourmet Sleepover: $119 per person / per night / plus taxes / double occupancyValid for BC residents only until December 22 2009

This is the most delicious deal of the season. Package includes a one night stay in a luxurious OceanSuite

and the chef ’s 5 course tasting menu in the SeaGrille.

Victoria’s number one rated spa resort.

eatmagazine Nov | Dec 2009

Editor in Chief Gary HynesContributing Editor Carolyn Bateman, Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg

Editorial Assistant/web editor Rebecca Baugniet

Community ReportersVictoria: Katie Zdybel, Nanaimo: Su Grimmer, Comox Valley: Hans Peter MeyerTofino | Uclulet: Kira Rogers, Vancouver: Julie Pegg, Okanagan: Jennifer Schell

Contributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Jennifer Danter, Pam Durkin,Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Holland Gidney, Laurie Guy, Mara Jernigan,Tracey Kusiewicz, Ceara Lornie, Sherri Martin, Rhona McAdam, Kathryn McAree, MichaelaMorris, Tim Morris, Colin Newell, Julie Pegg, Genevieve Laplante, Karen Platt, TreveRing, Kira Rogers, Elizabeth Smyth, Adem Tepedelen, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock,Rebecca Wellman, Katie ZdybelPublisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark.Advertising:Lorraine Browne, Jesse McClinton, Paul Kamon, Gary Hynes250.384.9042, [email protected] departmentsBox 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4, tel. 250-384-9042, fax. 250-384-6915www.eatmagazine.ca eatjobs.ca epicureandtravel.comSince 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may bereproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy,Pacific Island Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. Allopinions expressed in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. PacificIsland Gourmet reserves the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

Concierge Desk . . . . . . 4Island Grain series . . . 6Epicure at Large . . . . . . 9Artisans . . . . . . . . . . . .10Local Hero . . . . . . . . . . 13Good for You . . . . . . . . 14Chefs Talk . . . . . . . . . .15Victoria Reporter . . . . 16Holiday Desserts . . . .20Cover Recipe . . . . . . . .25Local Kitchen . . . . . . . 26What’s in Season? . . . 29Food Matters . . . . . . . .30The BC Food Scene . . 32Liquid Assets . . . . . . . 41Island Wine . . . . . . . . .42Holiday Wines . . . . . .44

from the editor

Holiday CheGet in the holday Cheer Lou26th, from 5enjoy tasty nfree mini spaholiday shoppfering sampleentertaining.

Toast the HFind out how tpunch, mulledspirits, tea sanSilk Road eve3:30 pm.(www.silkroad

DecembeHealthy HoThe James Baholding a CooDecember 2nmake some hesuch as HalvaBalls and Mincsugar or wheason. Call 250www.jamesba

ChristmasThe BC Wine Aing ChristmaGoose Vineya2009 Winery oGoose will bewines to helpfind a new tursite for more d

4 EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2009

NovemberWest Coast Chocolate FestivalRunning until November 10th, the West CoastChocolate Festival is back in Vancouver after aone-year hiatus. With the participation of thePacific Institute of Culinary Arts, HorizonsRestaurant, ChocolaTas, Schokolade Café andothers, chocoholics are sure to get their fill. Toview the complete event schedule, visit thefestival website (www.chocolatefestival.ca)

Meet Canada’s Chef-at-LargeBarbara Jo’s Books to Cooks is hosting twoevents with Michael Smith November 2nd. Thedinner is already sold out, but tickets are stillavailable for the reception (5 pm). Guests willwatch Chef Michael Smith demonstrate arecipe and speak about what inspires hiscooking. The cost is 45$ and includes refresh-ments and a copy of his new book, Best ofChef at Home. Call 604-688-6755 to register.

Wild Edible MushroomWorkshopsDevelop skills for identifying edible mush-rooms at one of The Land Conservancy’s Be-ginner’s Wild Edible Mushroom Workshops.Led by TLC member and biologist, Jessica Wolf,each workshop costs 40$ and will run for threehours. They are offered from November 6th-9th and will be held at the Wildwood Ecofor-est. Reserve a spot by calling Jessica Wolf(250-722-2292) or visit the TLC’s event calen-dar page: http://www.conservancy.bc.ca/.

A Taste of BritainFollowing 2007’s Taste of Italy and 2008’sTaste of France comes 2009’s A Taste of Britainon November 7th. This annual black-tiefundraising dinner, dance and auction sup-ports the work of Our Place Society. The eventwill be held at the Crystal Gardens with dinnerprepared by the Chefs of the Empress Hoteland live entertainment provided by The Ac-cousticats and Britain’s The Sutcliffes. To pur-chase tickets, call Our Place Society250-388-7112 ext. 237 or visitwww.tasteofbritain.ca/tickets.html.

Art of the CocktailA two-day festival celebrating the art, craft,and tradition of the cocktail. This event is afundraiser for the Victoria Film Festival. Visitthe VFF website for complete schedule details.(www.victoriafilmfestival.com) November 7th-8th, at Victoria Arts Connection – 2750 QuadraStreet.

Fresh with Anna OlsonMeet Anna Olson for refreshments at BarbaraJo’s Books to Cooks on November 10th at 6pm. Cost is $60. Call 604-688-6755 to regis-ter.

Slurp and SwirlJoe Fortes Seafood and Chop House presentsthe 7th Annual Slurp & Swirl – A Wine and Oys-ter Celebration, and the Western CanadianOyster Shucking Championship on November

10th, from 6 to 11 p.m. Come watch competi-tors from across North America vie for the cov-eted ‘Shuck-King’ belt while you enjoy liveentertainment (March Hare Band), great wine,gourmet canapés, silent and live auction. Pro-ceeds benefit the BC Professional Fire Fight-ers’ Burn Fund. Tickets are $150 per personavailable at Joe Fortes or via fax(604.669.4426) with credit card info.

Whistler’s CornucopiaCelebrate gourmet food coupled with finewine at Whistler from November 12th-15th. Sitin on fascinating seminars with wineries, crit-ics and wine professionals, or attend wine-maker dinners where sumptuous multi-coursemeals are paired with a variety of wines. Swirl,sniff, & sip a selection of vintages at varioustasting events or take a Chef's Trip to the Farm.Visit the Whistler Cornucopia website to buytickets and see full event details.(www. whistlercornucopia.com)

Winemakers Dinner at MuseWineryThis much anticipated event is a sell out everyyear. The evening begins at 6 pm on Novem-ber 14th at Muse Winery, with the opening re-ception and appetizers served with Musewines. The evening continues across thestreet at the Deep Cove Chalet Restaurantwhere a five-course dinner is paired with MuseWines. Price per person $135. Reserve by con-tacting Muse Winery 250-656-2552.

Masutake FeastJoin Bill Jones at Deerholme Farm for a pinemushroom dinner featuring grilled quail rollswith pine mushroom and apricot compote,soba noodles with pine mushroom and squashsalad, and more. The dinner will take placeSaturday, November 21, 2009. Cost is $90 perperson and includes recipes. Call 250-748-7450 to book, or for more information visit theevents page of the Deerholme Farm website(www.magnorth.bc.ca/events.htm).

Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead

THE CONCIERGE DESK by Rebecca BaugnietFor more events visit THE BULLETIN BOARD at www.eatmagazine.ca

Tel: 250-294-7500500 Oswego St. @ Kingston St.www.oswegovictoria.com

O Bistro & Lounge

Jazz Nights – November 4,December 2 & 16. Tempt your taste

buds with our new small plates menu.Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Art of tThis month’tradition ofOn Nove

and loungeRoom evenmixologistsBest MixoloWhat Becoing your Othe Thirsty TCooper ofFresh MixoThe Festiv

dinaire (antor of MixoCheck the w

WHEN: NWHERE: VTICKETS: EVictoria (Filare $1 andWEB: www

Holiday Cheer Lounge NightGet in the holiday spirit with Silk Road’s Holi-day Cheer Lounge Night, Thursday November26th, from 5 to 9 pm. Sip on a tea cocktail,enjoy tasty nibbles, and be pampered withfree mini spa services while you kick off yourholiday shopping. The staff will be on hand, of-fering samples of holiday teas and recipes forentertaining. (www.silkroadtea.com)

Toast the HolidaysFind out how to use different teas to make teapunch, mulled teas, tea martinis, tea infusedspirits, tea sangrias, and dessert drinks at thisSilk Road event on November 28th, from 2 to3:30 pm. Cost is $12 per person.(www.silkroadtea.com)

DecemberHealthy Holiday TreatWorkshopThe James Bay community School Centre isholding a Cooking with Chef Sonja workshopDecember 2nd, from 6:30 to 9 pm. Learn tomake some healthier gourmet holiday sweetssuch as Halvah Shortbread, Cashew CrunchBalls and Mince Apple Tarts, all without refinedsugar or wheat. The workshop is $42 per per-son. Call 250-389-1470 to register, or visitwww.jamesbaycentre.ca for more details.

Christmas withWild GooseThe BC Wine Appreciation Society is celebrat-ing Christmas on December 3rd with WildGoose Vineyards, voted Pacific Northwest's2009 Winery of the Year. Roland Kruger of WildGoose will be bringing a great selection of hiswines to help us end the year. You just mayfind a new turkey wine! Visit the BCWAS web-site for more details (www.bcwas.com)

A Christmas InspiredThis annual event provides a perfect giftchoosing opportunity for the special ones onyour Christmas list. Visit Muse Winery Decem-ber 12th and 13th for an annual event that al-lows you to meet the artists, and enjoy workby sculptors Craig Benson and Paul Harder,painter Barry Tate, photographer Dave Hutchi-son, glass artist Pauline Olesen, goldsmithTerry Venables and kelp weaver/sculptorGrant Warrington . The winery will also haveon hand a wonderful selection of wine gift bas-kets perfect for clients, hostesses and friends.The Tasting Room will be open throughout theshow, so you can leisurely take in the art witha glass in hand.

Truffle Dinner at Deerholme FarmAnother tempting feast with Bill Jones, thisone highlighting truffles. Menu items for thisDecember 12th dinner include truffled deviledeggs with artisan smoked bacon, fresh eggpasta with butter, fresh truffle and artisanalParmesan cheese, and terrine of scallops andprawns with a black truffle aioli. $125 per per-son including recipes. Call 250-748-7450 tobook, or for more information visit the eventspage of the Deerholme Farm website(www.magnorth.bc.ca/events.htm).

Holidays at QuailsGateNovember 1st to December 23rdChef Roger Sleiman will be cooking seasonallyinspired menus prepared freshdaily at the Old Vines Restaurantquailsgate.com, 250-769-4451


Thrifty Foods Cooking and Lifestyle Centre

offers informative and entertaining

cooking classes for aspiring chefs of all abilities.

Register for a class now and create

a delicious holiday season.

Visit thriftyfoods.com/lifestyle

for a list of upcoming classes

and online registration.

Come hungry.

Tasting is a part of every class.

Get readyfo r a de l i c io u sh o l i da y s ea s on !

yle Centre

ng

s of all abilities.

te

visit thriftyfoods.com

atch competi-vie for the cov-ou enjoy lived), great wine,e auction. Pro-nal Fire Fight-0 per personor via faxinfo.

led with fine12th-15th. Sitwineries, crit-attend wine-

s multi-coursef wines. Swirl,

ges at variousp to the Farm.ebsite to buy

s.

seWinerysell out everym on Novem-

he opening re-d with Muses across the

et Restaurantred with Museeserve by con-552.

rm for a pineled quail rollscot compote,m and squashill take placeost is $90 perCall 250-748-ation visit theFarm websitetm).

ths ahead

nietzine.ca

ston St.m

e

r 4,our tastees menu.d dinner.

Art of the CocktailThis month’s inaugural Art of the Cocktail is a two day celebration of the art, craft andtradition of the cocktail.On November 7th and 8th, Victoria will see distillery ambassadors, representatives

and lounges offering samples of their sophisticated cocktails. At the main TastingRoom events, guests can sample cocktails and spirits while catching tips from guestmixologists, authors and reps on the main stage. Events include a competition for theBest Mixologist in the Pacific Northwest, and numerous workshops including Whisky -What Becomes a Legend Most, Molecular Mixology, Cocktails of the 1890s and Mak-ing your Own Mixers have been booked. Notable guests include Kevin Brauch fromthe Thirsty Traveler, Charlotte Voisey, Global Ambassador for Hendricks Gin, RonCooper of Del Maguey Single Village Tequila, and Bridget Albert, author of MarketFresh Mixology.The Festival is a fundraiser for the Victoria Film Festival, and local mixologist extraor-

dinaire (and head of the classic-cool cocktail bar at Clive’s) has been tapped as Direc-tor of Mixology.Check the website for the current schedule of events.

WHEN: November 7 & 8, 2009WHERE: Victoria Arts Connection 2750 Quadra St.TICKETS: Event tickets are available in advance only - online or at 1215 Blanshard St.,Victoria (Film Festival office). Tickets for the Tasting Room are $35. Tokens for samplesare $1 and are only available at the event (cash only).WEB: www.artofthecocktail.ca


GOING WITH THE GRAIN — by Holland Gidney

TOGROWORNOTTOGROWGiven much thought to your porridge provenance? Wondered who grew thewheat that went into your bread? What about the barley in your beer? De-spite our collective consumption of 315 million kilograms of grain productseach year, British Columbians generally don’t give much thought to the ori-gins of the grains we consume on a daily basis. In fact, it may not havecrossed your mind that grain is even grown in B.C., or that non-farmers are in-volved with growing it. Over the next three issues, EAT magazine takes a lookat small-scale local grain production in B.C.

Could there be a grain-aissance underway in British Columbia?

Part 1:

“Revolutions– Sharon Rem

When the pritheir bread pmay be staplby supply anmand worldwis equally im

A Ministrystatistics fougrain, or 14 pcent of our dathat way.

“The ‘high-history of cersis on small-s

Historicallywith grain “coDelta, Surreyley, and in a ptrial parks, juwheat per ac

But aroundlations cameagricultural pin the Fraserbake into bag

Today, 85-9B.C.’s largesttural Land ReThere’s lots oously here. Jacrops grown(the first two

The only otsmaller farmsspelt, plus rythere isn’t sig

But that do“Grain is in

Doehnel, whoin addition tored spring wh

“I actuallyHamish Crawfrom his Saamonths. He’sThe Roost, Viprefer local w

“Grain growBruce Stewaif the supplysible.”

To that endnearby farm.only enoughable on Satu

Agricultureand an estabmand for loca

“Costs for gto $900 peracre, while cDoehnel in has little as $1

Metchosinfarmers, becathe same dis

Harvesting grains by hand at Makaria Farm near Duncan

byGary

Hynes


nd Gidney

ROWho grew ther beer? De-n productst to the ori-y not have

mers are in-akes a look

“Revolutions have started when the price of food becomes unaffordable.”– Sharon Rempel, Demeter’s Wheats

When the price of flour doubled overnight in early 2008 and bakeries were forced to jacktheir bread prices by as much as a dollar a loaf, people were upset. Wheat and other grainsmay be staple foods but they’re also globally traded commodities, with prices influencedby supply and demand—in this case, a combination of poor harvests and increased de-mand worldwide. Food affordability should concern British Columbians, but food securityis equally important, particularly when it comes to grain.

A Ministry of Agriculture and Lands analysis of 2001 food production and consumptionstatistics found that B.C. farmers were producing only 43 million kilograms of food-gradegrain, or 14 percent of what’s consumed annually in the province, compared with 57 per-cent of our dairy, 43 percent of vegetables and 159 percent of fruit. But it didn’t used to bethat way.

“The ‘high-tech’ grain-growing operations on the Prairies are a pretty recent event in thehistory of cereal grain production,” says Chris Hergesheimer, who wrote his master’s the-sis on small-scale grain production in southwestern B.C.

Historically, he learned, many B.C. communities were self-sufficient in cereal groups,with grain “commonly grown” in southwestern B.C. as recently as the 1940s. A century ago,Delta, Surrey and Chilliwack were still producing thousands of tons of wheat, oats and bar-ley, and in a part of New Westminster, “now characterized in part by big box stores, indus-trial parks, junkyards and car lots,” farmers were getting a respectable 40 to 50 bushels ofwheat per acre.

But around the time of the Second World War, when strict Canadian Wheat Board regu-lations came into effect, most B.C. farmers gave up on grain in favour of more profitableagricultural pursuits such as planting orchards in the Okanagan or establishing dairy farmsin the Fraser Valley. This is why B.C. farmers now produce only a fraction of the grain webake into bagels and brew into beer.

Today, 85-90 percent of the grain we do produce is grown in the Peace River District,B.C.’s largest regional district, which encompasses 40 percent of the province’s Agricul-tural Land Reserve and shares a climate with the best grain-growing regions of Alberta.There’s lots of room for Saskatchewan-sized wheat fields, and grain farming is taken seri-ously here. Janet Banman of the B.C. Grain Producers Association says the most commoncrops grown in this area are barley, wheat and oats, which are pooled for commercial sale(the first two falling under the jurisdiction of the Canadian Wheat Board).

The only other part of B.C. with a reputation for grain is the North Okanagan, where muchsmaller farms in places like Armstrong, Enderby, Sorrento and Clinton are growing a lot ofspelt, plus rye, barley, oats and buckwheat, most of it organic. Elsewhere in the province,there isn’t significant production of food-grade grain.

But that doesn’t mean it can’t be grown, as farmers on Vancouver Island are proving.“Grain is in the group of crops that do reasonably well,” says Saanichton farmer Mike

Doehnel, who’s been doing growing trials to figure out which varieties do best. This year,in addition to his specialty—malting barley for beer—he grew seven different kinds of hardred spring wheat, six of them heritage varieties.

“I actually find that growing wheat here is easier than many places,” ex-Prairies farmerHamish Crawford told James MacKinnon and Alisa Smith when he supplied them with flourfrom his Saanich Peninsula farm after their 100-Mile Diet had been grain-free for sevenmonths. He’s one of several Island farmers growing grain for bakeries like North Saanich’sThe Roost, Victoria’s Fol Epi and Wild Fire, and Cowichan Bay’s True Grain Bread, which allprefer local wheat.

“Grain grown on the Island resonates with people,” says True Grain co-owner and millerBruce Stewart. Right now, only 1 percent of what he mills on-site is locally produced, butif the supply were to increase, he “would buy as much organic Island-grown wheat as pos-sible.”

To that end, Stewart was a partner last year in the planting of 15 acres of Red Fife at anearby farm. Unfortunately, a wireworm infestation meant the yield was just one tonne—only enough for 2,000 loaves—which is why the bakery’s special 4.92 km loaf is only avail-able on Saturdays.

Agriculture is risky business, especially organic agriculture, so despite a suitable climateand an established market, it’s unlikely Island producers will ever be able to meet the de-mand for local grain cost-effectively.

“Costs for growing, harvesting and storing cereals conventionally may range from $400to $900 per acre…. Cleaning, bagging and storing can add another $150 to the cost peracre, while costs for marketing and distribution can be added on top of that,” writesDoehnel in his 2007 barley and wheat trials report. On the Prairies, grain can be grown foras little as $150 an acre.

Metchosin farmer Tom Henry attributes the difference to economies of scale. “Prairiefarmers, because they are so large, buy seed, fertilizer and fuel at bulk prices. We don’t getthe same discount,” he says. CONT’D AT THE TOP OF THE NEXT PAGE

uncan


SSSUUUNNNDDDAAAYYY SSSCCCHHHOOOOOOLLLWWWiiittthhh ssshhhaaawwwnnn sssoooooollleee

SSSSSSppppppiiiiiirrrrrriiiiiitttttt 111111000000111111 &&&&&& IIIIIINNNNNNDDDDDDUUUUUUSSSSSSTTTTTTRRRRRRYYYYYY NNNNNNIIIIIIGGGGGGHHHHHHTTTTTT$$$555 AAAppppppiiieeesss fffrrrooommm 444 pppmmm tttiiillllll CCClllooossseeeSSSpppiiirrriiittt TTTuuutttooorrriiiaaalllsss aaannnddd FFFllliiiggghhhtttsss

CCCCCClllllliiiiiivvvvvveeeeee ssssss CCCCCCllllllaaaaaassssssssssssiiiiiicccccc LLLLLLoooooouuuuuunnnnnnggggggeeeeee iiiiiinnnnnntttttthhhhhheeeeee CCCCCChhhhhhaaaaaatttttteeeeeeaaaaaauuuuuu VVVVVViiiiiiccccccttttttoooooorrrrrriiiiiiaaaaaa

LLLLLLoooooobbbbbbbbbbbbyyyyyy LLLLLLeeeeeevvvvvveeeeeellllll 777777444444000000 BBBBBBuuuuuurrrrrrddddddeeeeeetttttttttttt SSSSSSttttttrrrrrreeeeeeeeeeeetttttt

From the wines of the Cowichan Valley to the cheeses of the Gulf Islands, to the bread andcoffee of Victoria, Vancouver Island’s culinary scene has grown to be one of the richest inthe world. Reported on by some of the world’s best culinary and travel magazines —Gourmet, Saveur, Travel & Leisure— the island is both visited by traveling epicureans andhome to chefs, artisans, and eaters with a passion for excellent locally-crafted food.

Gary Hynes and Bill Jones have created a leading-edge website that serves as meetingground, map, and guidebook all at once —a local foods headquarters for Vancouver Island.VancouverIslandLocalFood.com is a place for all epicureans to get wise to the island’s dis-tinct culinary areas, artisans, and ingredients. By clicking on a particular region, you canfind names and maps of neighbourhood restaurants or top-notch farmers’ markets. SaysJones, “If you’re on a mission for figs or planning a weekend of wine tastings, you cansearch the website by product or design a route based on the site’s suggestions —bike,hike, or drive, it’s up to you.” Food community events and issues will be posted as well incase you want to take in a small town’s spot prawn festival or learn about a village’s pur-suit of the Slow Food life. “We encourage readers—both eaters and professionals—topost on VILocalFood. Let everyone know about your latestest discovery,” says Hynes.Recipes featuring local ingredients posted by chefs and readers within the area furtherbroaden the scope of the site.

The soul of the project is its allegiance to supporting local producers and sustainableingredients. “In sourcing locally, we support Vancouver Island’s economy, lessen our impacton the environment, and increase the transparency of companies” says Hynes. A true com-munity project, Jones and Hynes encourage local food businesses to participate by be-coming a Community Member —this ensures businesses with a section on the homepagewhich can be linked to their own website and used for blogging or posting news for keep-ing eaters on the up-and-up. Writers and contributors are also encouraged to get in touch.

Whether you’re a budding farmer or wine enthusiast, the website serves to connectislanders to each other and to their land by providing a modern-day piazza —a place tolearn, discuss, and celebrate the art of eating well. —by Katie Zdybelwww.VancouverIslandLocalFood.com

New Website Provides Local FoodHeadquarters for Vancouver IslandVancouver Island’s local food movement moves forward with newwebsite from Chef Bill Jones and EAT Magazine editor Gary Hynes.

Humbug. Turulence that revery Decemall.

This excusebe just fine fcumin and coby Turks andIlsa, the love

We fly fromreign of Mouhad an unsehave to supp

We’d signeus in the deseworthy of Tibper, rust, gol

We pause fLast Days oflar of salt. Ev

We eat a lua drizzle of thfrom vineyard“Where-za-zaby camel.

In Moroccoappoint two mican who reckick a hole innumber one

When at lasdivans arounfor mutton I’d... dig a hole

Salt and cuaromatic mutgeon pie starI, we toast po

Trumpets obaby lamb, fotender flesh cventing the te

Inevitably ctronomic sigsteaming pyr

Finally combenediction:

As dinner eWe are talkinutter quiet of

“Maybe thcamels,” qui

“Maybe theincense and

And lo, fromAnd a voice

EPICU

AMChristmaslamb and

Henry is one of the biggest growers on Vancou-ver Island, yet he planted a mere 44 acres of grainthis year (two acres of Red Fife wheat, seven acresof barley and 35 acres of hard red spring wheat).By comparison, it’s not uncommon for a farmer inSaskatchewan to have 5,000 acres of wheat. Ifboth farmers make $20 an acre profit, the Prairiefarmer earns $100,000 while Henry pockets just$880—or “zilch” if the crop fails since he doesn’tqualify for crop insurance.

“That isn’t enough to warrant the financial andtime investments,” he says.

However, Henry will keep growing grain becauseit’s in demand. Even though it would be cheaperfor the bakery to source certified organic Red Fifefrom Saskatchewan, Wild Fire remains one of hisbiggest customers.

But other farmers are more hesitant about join-ing the grain revolution.

“Carrots are worth ten times as much,” saysBrock McLeod of 10-acre Makaria Farm in Duncan.“On a small farm, it’s tough to make grains work[commercially].”

Despite the difficulty, the Duncan farmer is con-sidering planting grain to sell through a CSA(Community Supported Agriculture), following thelead of two groups whowill be profiled in the nextinstallment of this series.

he bread andthe richest in

magazines —icureans and

ed food.s as meetingouver Island.e island’s dis-gion, you can

markets. Saysngs, you cantions —bike,ted as well invillage’s pur-ssionals—tosays Hynes.area further

d sustainableen our impacts. A true com-cipate by be-he homepageews for keep-

get in touch.s to connect—a place to

Foodlandwith newHynes.


Humbug. Turkey is foul fowl, if you ask me. Not because of the legendary post-feast flat-ulence that rocks Canadian homes with seismic fury from Tofino to Dildo, Newfoundland,every December 25. I have a problem eating a bird so dumb it can drown in a puddle, that’sall.

This excuse is as good as any to run off to Morocco for Christmas. A magic carpet wouldbe just fine for the flight over, Ali Baba. I love this Arabian Nights cuisine that melds thecumin and coriander of India, the olives and olive oil of Italy, the phyllo pastry cherishedby Turks and Greeks and the indigenous bounty of lemons and dates. And I’d bet Rick andIlsa, the lovers essayed by Bogey and Bergman in Casablanca, would agree.

We fly from Paris to Casablanca and motor to Meknes, the Moroccan capital during thereign of Moulay Ismail, the sultan who ruled for 45 years and fathered 500 sons. He alsohad an unsettling habit of having his enemies sawn in half from the top down. Which, Ihave to suppose, is better than the other way around.

We’d signed up for a bus tour that would take us over the Atlas Mountains and depositus in the desert for Christmas insha’ Allah, Allah willing. We negotiated a snow-lashed passworthy of Tibet. We descended into a palette of toasted desert hues—red, bronze, cop-per, rust, gold, peach and amber tumbling together under a Kodachrome sky.

We pause for lunch by the ruin of Ait Ben Hadou, a ghost city used for the filming of TheLast Days of Sodom and Gomorrah, a Biblical epic in which God zaps Lot’s wife into a pil-lar of salt. Even God likes a little salt now and then.

We eat a lunch of salad tossed with cumin, tagine of chicken with lemons and olives anda drizzle of the fiery sauce called harissa. We drink Gris de Boulaouane, a heady vin grisfrom vineyards on the Atlantic coast. Then we drive on to Ouarzazate, which is pronounced“Where-za-zat?” A sign in the middle of nowhere informs us we are 52 days from Timbuktuby camel.

In Morocco, a man may have four wives. Since I already have one and I’m not greedy, Iappoint two more from the bus: Chizuko, a diminutive Japanese, and Cassandra, an Amer-ican who recalls Raymond Chandler’s line about the sort of blonde who made the bishopkick a hole in the stained-glass window. My three wives and I prove inseparable, when wifenumber one entertains my madness.

When at last Christmas Eve arrives, we are deep in the desert. The wives and I sprawl ondivans around a low brass tabletop in a tent. Still awaft in my head is the Moroccan recipefor mutton I’d purchased years ago. It begins, “Choose a young sheep, fat, but not too big... dig a hole about four feet long …”

Salt and cumin arrive in silver bowls, to be taken by the pinch. The opener is harira, thearomatic mutton broth infused with lemon and coriander. Then comes bastilla, the flaky pi-geon pie starter that is the hallmark of any meal of importance in these parts. My wives andI, we toast polygamy with more Boulaouane.

Trumpets ought to be blaring. Waiters charge from the kitchen with mechoui, a wholebaby lamb, for each table. The lamb is herbed and spit-roasted to delirious succulence. Itstender flesh cascades from the bone at a glance. We eat with our fingers, gingerly circum-venting the testicles, especially the wives.

Inevitably comes the couscous. Semolina is a pasta, oddly enough, a faux rice and a gas-tronomic signature among the Berber tribes of North Africa. The four of us consume asteaming pyramid of the stuff heaped with chicken, vegetables and raisins.

Finally comes fresh fruit, voluptuous fruit, with mint tea and that delightfully Moroccanbenediction: the servers sprinkle us with orange water. The wives, they are girls again.

As dinner ends, the wives and I decide to walk under the desert sky. It sags with fat stars.We are talking about Christmas. “The first Christmas Eve must have felt like this, in theutter quiet of the desert,” says wife number two.

“Maybe there’ll be a Santa in a jellaba and turban and a sleigh pulled by eight tinycamels,” quips wife number one.

“Maybe there’ll be an omen,” says wife number three. “Maybe the Wise Men with frank-incense and myrrh.”

And lo, from the shadows appears a finger. It points at me.And a voice booms, “Behold. It is the three wives man.”

EPICURE AT LARGE — by Jeremy Ferguson

AMOROCCANMEMOIRChristmas in the desert: goodbye snow and turkey; hello spit-roastedlamb and polygamy.

MA

RTIN

S569

0_EA

T1T h e P E O P L E , S T O R I E S & W I N E S T H A T

M A K E t h e B A R O S S A F A M O U S

www.peterlehmannwines.com

The Queen of Clubs or ‘Gambler’s Card’ represents the great gamble that Peter Lehmann took when founding the Barossa winery in 1979. The Queen now

has many faces; each one uniquely modelled to represent the individual style of the wine within. Once you discover the consistent quality and fl avours of our Art Series

wines, you will see that we have Barossa winemaking down to a fi ne art.

Discover the art of Barossa winemaking.


For reservations: 250.655.9700 • www.sidneypier.com

start a new tradition with us

Prime Rib SundaysYour choice of soup or Caesar salad.

Alberta AAA Prime Rib, Yorkshire Pudding,Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes and Fresh Vegetables.

$29.95 - Every Sunday evening in Haro’s from 5pm.

fresh flavours, casual comfort, genuine service

Seth Burton made his first knife from the leaf spring of a ‘56 Chevy pick-up 15 years ago.As I watched him craft knife number 1412 at his Saltspring Island workshop, there is a senseof quiet excitement as he cuts, forges, hardens, grinds and polishes yet another piece ofsteel into a finished 10 inch chef’s knife.

Knife number 1412 grew out of a dusty black three-foot-by-six-inch chunk of stainlesssteel that despite its humble looks is a long way from that first leaf-spring metal. Stainlesssteel comes in many grades and this is called CPM S90V. It’s expensive; that slab wasUS$500, more than three times the cost of the other high quality stainless found in topkitchen knives; and it’s hard, which makes it good for holding an edge but takes up to threetimes longer for Burton to grind and finish. The V stands for Vanadium which adds to wearresistance and toughness allowing the blade to take and retain a very sharp edge.

I spent two days at Cosmo Knives, in his wooden, unheated barn-like shop watching thechef’s knife grow in his hands from a rough cardboard template to a finely honed andgleaming instrument.

The chef’s knife is one of – if not the most – fundamental tools in any kitchen. But it mayalso be one that many cooks really haven’t been trained to use well and equally impor-tant, maintain well. Tony Minichiello at Northwest Culinary Academy of Vancouver watcheshis students – and friends – to see how they use and care for their kitchen knifes. It’s hislitmus test.

“Show me somebody with a sharp knife and that’s a real foodie expert. Show me some-body with a dull knife that’s in a drawer somewhere and when they open it they don’t evenknow where it is … they have to look for it … that’s somebody who’s not doing much cook-ing at home.”

To make his point, he holds up a loosely held newspaper and slices through it with ease.When he teaches cooks – both professional and non-professional - one of the first things

he does is assess the knives and skills of each student. Over the years, he’s noticed howmuch more important a good knife has become to the students. Equally prevalent is the in-fluence of Japanese knife makers. “I noticed every time a foodie takes this course, andthey’re serious, they have a Japanese knife.”

He ascribes this to size, feel, the grip and the quality. Many of the tradition Europeanknife makers used to make bigger blades with bigger grips suitable for bigger chefs; al-though they are now adapting to a changing consuming market.

Minichiello says the impact of Japan cannot be underestimated when it comes to kitchen

knives and wthat. In orderthe tools and

At Vancouvare taking th

But long beIn 1983, his

from Englandtime. At 16 helike it. A laten

A retired blday and lightChevy leaf sppaintings andonly an hourdid it for a liv

Burton saytegrity into eprocess. All tperfect knife

Burton was$4,500 in a g

Making a kmake. As I waese flair to itline. That promore like a p

In the darkmounted abotongs and resto a 2,100 toBurton usestaught him dworld is turn

He pulls itthing that moout dough anto work belowshape the blamer and then

He works oand reducesstraightens u

ANATOMY OF A KNIFEOn Salt Spring, Seth Burton crafts extraordinary kitchen knives

ARTISANS — by Tim Morris

Seth Burton checks the progress of knife #1412

Burton be

—Tim

Morris

—Tim

Morris


15 years ago.ere is a sensether piece of

k of stainlesstal. Stainlesshat slab wasfound in top

es up to threeadds to wearedge.watching they honed and

n. But it mayqually impor-uver watches

knifes. It’s his

ow me some-ey don’t eveng much cook-

h it with ease.he first things

noticed howlent is the in-course, and

on Europeanger chefs; al-

es to kitchen

knives and what he calls, the sense of craftsmanship they convey. “And I think people needthat. In order for people to view their cooking seriously they have got to feel that if I havethe tools and I know how to use them, I’m going to end up cooking much better.”

At Vancouver’s Gourmet Warehouse, Caren McSherry sums it up simply. “Japanese knivesare taking the lead against European knives.”

On Saltspring Island, it’s notimmediately obvious, but Japan has beenone of the major influences on how Bur-ton crafts his blades.

His high-ceiling shop is dimly lit. Thewalls are lined with long sanding beltshanging on hooks like so many overcoatswaiting to be picked for the task. Finegrit, some a bit used, coarser grit. Alongother walls are small knives, kitchenknifes, outdoor knives in various stagesof completion.

In another room there’s an industrialsewing machine for making sheaths andengraving tools for etching custom de-signs and his logo on the finished blade.

There is a home-built propane firedforge, an anvil and hammer that wouldnot be strange to a 16th century black-smith, pneumatic air hammers, electrickilns and five grinders – one of which hespecifically built after being invited tovisit some master knives makers duringa trip to Japan.

But long before that trip, Burton had become convinced knife making was his passion.In 1983, his mother who is an artist, transplanted Burton and his brother to Saltspring

from England. He was 11 at the time and remembers carving knives out of wood – all thetime. At 16 he thought he’d be a woodworker and took a joinery apprenticeship but didn’tlike it. A latent interest in metal and knife making reemerged.

A retired blacksmith on the island was renting part of his shop and “he’d come up everyday and light the cold forge.” He made a few knives starting with the one from that ‘56Chevy leaf spring. Then came a trip to New Mexico in 1998 to pick up some of his mother’spaintings and a chance meeting with a well-known knife maker named Jay Fisher. It wasonly an hour and a half, but the influence was significant. “That’s when I realized peopledid it for a living. There was a knife world out there.”

Burton says Fisher set him on a course. “His quality is incredible. He puts so much in-tegrity into each part of he knife. That’s one of the reasons why I love it. Just the wholeprocess. All the difference machines and materials I get to use. Also the strive to reach theperfect knife. The strive to excellence.”

Burton was hooked. He came back to Saltspring and with the help of a friend invested$4,500 in a grinder to add to the metal working and blacksmithing tools already in place.

Making a knife is not simple. It starts with a template of the type of knife he wants tomake. As I watched, Burton outlined what he called an all purpose chef’s knife with a Japan-ese flair to it onto the CPM s90V plate and then used a plasma cutter to get the first out-line. That produced a rough hewn piece of metal with an upward curve that initially lookedmore like a piece of scrap than the start of a $400 kitchen tool.

In the dark shop there is a glowing tube of white heat from the mouth of a small forgemounted about four meters off the floor. It is eye-level to Burton who holds the knife intongs and rests it inside. Two propane jets pour gas into the pipe raising the temperatureto a 2,100 to 2,300 degree Fahrenheit range. Different metals require different heats andBurton uses the colour of the red metal as his guide. Experience and online research havetaught him different steel qualities. As it sits in the flames, some of the hardest steel in theworld is turning to malleable putty.

He pulls it out and begins the delicate and irreversible step of hammering it into some-thing that more resembles the knife that is hidden in the steel at this point. Think of rollingout dough and pressing one side away. Too thin and it is fragile. The key, he tells me, is notto work below a critical temperature which gives him about a 30 to 45 second window toshape the blade before it goes back into the forge. He initially uses the pneumatic air ham-mer and then works on the anvil for more controlled finishing blows.

He works on the hot metal and draws out the taper in the blade, brings down the beveland reduces the thickness along the cutting edge. The upwards curve in the knife slowlystraightens under his controlled blows. The blade gets reheated, hammered, reheated until

Een knives

2

Burton begins grinding #1412

—Tim

Morris

—Tim

Morris

CONT’D ON THE NEXT PAGE


LOCA

yourself in eitOnce she re

volvement wWomen’s Cate(CR-FAIR). Shlots of peoplethe farmers sers could do.”and urban co

From its 20concept in a tmarkets in ofadamantly inother jurisdic

Like any nethe kinks. Maoffices from stoo. Others, li

In other progroups like Thquets. In Dece

The latest estarted in thethey wanted oof the old co-

All the foodMost, particuwhich the groowned busine“We think of o

FoodRoots’working oppofrom off-islaners up to thehave with the

Fuge’s overabout the avatitude of reasronmental he

Three Course Menu for only $20

Sustainable Seafood Local Produce Organic Bison Local Micro Breweries B.C. VQA Wines

Chef’s Choice

C L U B H O U SE

. ..

The Sticky Wicket & The Clubhouse at The Strathcona Hotel919 Douglas Street Victoria BC 250.383.7137

www.strathconahotel.comThe Strathcona Hotel is a proud Ocean Wise partner

. .

Chef’s Choice f’s Choice

ESUOHBULC

The Clubhouse at The Sticky Wicket & 919 Douglas Street V

wwwThe Strathcona Hotel is a proud Ocean Wise partner

The Strathcona Hotelhe Clubhouse at ...strathconahotel.comww

na Hotel is a proud Ocean Wise partner

eet Victoria BC 250.383.7137cona Hotel7137

LEE

—SherriKostian

the curve has gone and Burton is happy with the shape making sure it doesn’t get too thinfor fear of warping. Now comes grinding.

His shop has five different grinding wheels and reams of long sandpaper belts that hechanges depending on how the shaping is progressing. He chooses from the belts hang-ing off the hooks like someone going through a rack of ties; a finer grit for one stage ormaybe a belt that has already been used a bit to take away its harshness.

It’s not obvious, but a trip to Japan has influenced this stage of his knife making. Whileon a trip there three years ago and he found a translator who helped arrange visits to sev-eral knife makers. In his quiet soft spoken way he describes meeting a traditional sword andknife maker who turned out the lights, handed Burton a towel since traditionally you shouldnot touch a blade with bare hands, and pulled out a sword that his father had made. He toldBurton to look in to the steel, into the grain... “To me, it was my most amazing day I everhad. I came out of that place so emotional, especially after he pulled out the sword.”

Burton also came back to Saltspring determined to adapt his belt grinders to the largerwheels he found in Japan. He ordered two 24 inch wheels from a shop Chicago -the onlyplace that could make them.

The bigger surface is almost flat and for him the advantage is that it produces a longerhollow grind. “The cutting edge is thinner for a longer time and sharpening is easier.”

At this knife is taking shape as he grinds off the hard stainless steel. He uses sight, sound,the feel of heat on his thumb as the belt removes the steel and even the water as he coolsthe friction-heated blade. He grinds freehand as opposed to resting on a table.

“I feel there’s more control. You can move with the flow of the blade more, the flow of theshape of the blade. … At the beginning it’s trickier. But in the long run, after you get the ex-perience … I feel I have more control.”

He knows it’s ready when the edge is even and fine. “I used to measured it all the time…now just know its there.” At this stage the knife has its profile and rough grind.

Next comes heat treatment to make the steel tougher. Burton wrapped the blade in aspecial foil, added argon gas to reduce oxygen, sealed it tight and then placed it into hiselectric kiln heated to 2125F. The steel has to be hardened to change the molecular struc-ture to make it harder. The blade is quenched in oil and then tempered with two lower tem-perature heat treatments.

Burton has since worked on a new way to heat treat his blades without the expensivestainless steel foil. It is an outgrowth of something he saw in Japan but which he hasadapted; painting a clay-like coating on the blade instead of wrapping it in the sealed foilpackage.

The second day was spent fine grinding and polishing the blade. He cut out and grounda bolster and used a carbon glass composite called G10 to make the tough handle, grind-ing the handle down to its finished shape, constantly stopping and testing for the right feeland grip.

The final steps are etching on his logo, custom art work for special order knives and thenthe final sharpening after he has finished working on the blade.

Knives are gauged many ways and one determination of hardness is the Rockwell scale.This one came in at 58 to 59, but Burton says because of the high quality stainless used,and its Vanadium content, it holds an edge better than some with a higher Rockwell rating.

A knife like this doesn’t come cheap. Expect it to be in the $350 to $400 range.But you don’t have to spend that to come up with good knives and there is more choice

now than a few years ago. Back at Gourmet Warehouse in Vancouver, McSherry will help acustomer the best knife that’s best for them. A lot of it is how it feels. Bringing out the samestyle knife from four different companies, she’ll say “ ‘Now you hold it. You tell me whatfeels comfortable. What you like.’ They steer themselves into what they like. I can’t tellthem. They have to feel it.” Right now Japanese knives are enjoying a following.

Minichiello at Northwest Culinary Academy goes farther with his buying advice whenshopping at a good kitchen supply store. “Don’t be afraid to bring a carrot or a piece of cel-ery. They should lend you a cutting board to practice. It they don’t... walk away. It’s likegoing to a car dealer and buying a car off the lot and you can’t test it.”

And he says it’s not just the knife you’re buying, but a way to sharpen it and a cuttingboard… preferably wood.

At the end of two days Burton is happy with knife 1412 which he’ll post on his Web siteor take to the Ganges farmers market where he sells a lot of his product. It now looks noth-ing like the rough hewn piece of metal. “It feels good. It’s one of my newest favourite knives.The whole shape… 10 inch... I’m happy with the way it turned out.”

It’s a lovely tool. But once this or any kitchen knife leaves the shop, it’s over to the cookto know how to use it and keep it as sharp as the day it arrived in the kitchen.To learn more about Cosmos Knives visit www.cosmoknives.comTo watch a video on Seth Burtonmaking knife #1412 go towww.vancouverislandlocalfood.comand click on Food Video.* For breaking news on Seth’s latest venture visit www.eatmagazine.ca (hint San Mai StainlessDamascus)

�


LOCAL HERO — by Rhona McAdam

Nowadays it seems many people knowabout food issues such as sustainability andsecurity. Yet we’re still unaware of thosewho’ve been blazing the West Coast food trailfor the past decade and more. One of thosetrail-blazers is Lee Fuge. If you ask about herown accomplishments, she’ll demur; but askher about FoodRoots, the organization sheco-founded, and you’ll hear genuine passion.

FoodRoots, not for profit co-op distributor,is the brainchild of three parents: Fuge;Susan Tychie, co-founder of delivery systemShare Organics; and Peninsula organicfarmer Bryan Hughes. “We wanted local,open, democratic ownership, and we wantedthe organization to be embedded in the com-munity.” While Fuge is now deeply rooted inthat community, when she arrived in Victoriafrom Calgary 13 years ago, she found it an im-penetrable job market, despite ample naturalfood retailing credentials. So she commutedinstead to Vancouver to manage the East EndFood Co-op. After a year and a half she’d hadenough. “Twice a week shifting from the paceof Vancouver to the pace of Victoria, and hav-ing homes in two places; relationships andwork in two places. It’s hard to establish

yourself in either community if you’re only there part-time.”Once she returned full-time to Victoria, she forged her own food security path through in-

volvement with organizations like the Vic West Community Association, the InternationalWomen’s Catering Co-op and the Capital Region Food and Agriculture Initiatives Roundtable(CR-FAIR). She, Tychie and Hughes often shared concerns about local food supply. “For years,lots of people had been saying the farmers should do this and the farmers should do that andthe farmers should do the other thing; but basically the farmers were doing all that the farm-ers could do.” And then it struck them: they could create the link that brought small farmersand urban consumers together.

From its 2006 inception, FoodRoots broke new ground, documenting the pocket marketsconcept in a toolkit posted on the website that would allow urbanites to experience farmers’markets in office buildings, shopping malls or rec centres. Fuge’s FoodRoots ambitions areadamantly inclusive: “sharing resources, information resources included, so that people inother jurisdictions can do similar things.”

Like any new idea, pocket markets have had ups and downs, and they’re still working outthe kinks. Markets in rec centres suffered from lack of marketing budget, those in governmentoffices from security and insurance restrictions that prevented the public from shopping theretoo. Others, like those at Mayfair Mall and Fernwood (in the Cornerstone Café) are thriving.

In other projects, FoodRoots has hosted “sustainable feasts,” sometimes partnering withgroups like The Land Conservancy and Slow Food to provide delicious local educational ban-quets. In December, they’ll again be inviting people to buy, give or donate seasonal food boxes.

The latest enterprise is an online buyers’ group. “When the whole natural foods movementstarted in the ’60s, it started with buying groups, because people couldn’t find the productsthey wanted on the conventional store shelves. So I see what we’re doing as a sort of revivalof the old co-op food movement, and re-localizing food.”

All the food on offer is either organic or naturally grown, and fairly traded where possible.Most, particularly in summer, is local. The orders are collected at the FoodRoots warehouse,which the group shares with LifeCycles and Share Organics—“a co-operative, a privatelyowned business and a food security-focused non-profit sharing space,” marvels Fuge, adding,“We think of ourselves as the food security hub for Victoria.”

FoodRoots’ annual farmers’ meeting embodies Fuge’s passion for transparency. “It’s a net-working opportunity for the farmers, but more important, we tell the farmers what we boughtfrom off-island so they can see the gaps and opportunities.” She aims to bring small produc-ers up to the table as equals, offering them “the same kind of relationship that large growershave with their wholesalers.”

Fuge’s overall aims are modestly heroic. “We need to stay focused on educating peopleabout the availability of local foods, encouraging them to buy local, explaining to them the mul-titude of reasons that buying local is good, not only for their health but economic and envi-ronmental health, and the health of the farmers and farmland.”www.foodroots.ca

LEEFUGEOFFOODROOTS

Lee Fuge

—SherriKostian

t get too thin

belts that hee belts hang-one stage or

making. Whilevisits to sev-

nal sword andly you should

made. He toldng day I eversword.”to the larger

ago -the only

uces a longers easier.”sight, sound,

er as he coolsle.he flow of theou get the ex-

all the time…nd.he blade in aed it into hislecular struc-

wo lower tem-

he expensivewhich he hashe sealed foil

t and groundandle, grind-the right feel

ves and then

ckwell scale.ainless used,ckwell rating.nge.more choice

rry will help aout the sametell me whate. I can’t tellng.advice when

a piece of cel-away. It’s like

and a cutting

his Web sitew looks noth-ourite knives.

r to the cookn.

ocalfood.com

Mai Stainless 1327 Beach Drive at the Oak Bay Marina

250-598-8555

Panko crusted Fanny Bay oysters,herb roasted fingerling potato, apple,

fennel and celeriac slaw.

The Marina Dinner Series presents a new three-course menu every month for $30,

and a three-course holiday menu in December for $35.

See the menus at www.marinarestaurant.com

Now accepting Christmas party reservations.

Chef Matt Rissling

21327 Beach Drive at the Oak Bay Marina

250-598-8555h Drive at the Oak Bay Marinaarina

Get fresh

Innovative seasonal cuisine to share with friends2583 Cadboro Bay Rd. | (250) 598 2828


LaRistorante

iola

The Best of Italy and Vancouver Island

Cucina Tradizionale Gastronomia Locale

Wor

king

In Partnership

Keeping ItLo

cal

3189 Quadra St. Next to the Italian BakeryCall for reservations: 388-4517

www.lapiola.ca

Zoe O'DoherHmmm... thapractising myto Vancouverrainy day subcoconut ricebuilding as wI have left ov

Rory Leek SI'm looking foStews, cassewinter squasmonths!

Paul de RiddI am lookingyou warm anLittle Qualicusauce. Or, jalsalsa. If I runcook book Is

Mike DunloI'm looking fseasonal metwitchy androoms of all kit's time to u

Heather StaWe get thesea blend of gosmells that fserve the chtoasted sesaelse I've ever

Jenna LandrThe holidaysweet potatolocal ingredie

Julian OberThis winter I'I want to go t

Bruno I. deWe will be getreat! I'd alsoprepared witability of prodvegetables (b

Weaskforwar

CHEF

They define the holiday aroma and enhance health.

While spices are integral to cooking yearround, certain spices are an indelible partof holiday baking. Cinnamon, cloves, gingerand nutmeg form an aromatic quartet thatstrikes the dominant note in a host of fes-tive favourites, from pumpkin pie toeggnog. In addition to enhancing our food,these popular spices can also enhance ourwell-being. Scientists have discovered theyeach confer some unique health benefits.Let’s take a closer look.

CINNAMONIn ancient Egypt, cinnamon was consideredmore precious than gold. Modern scienceis proving the Egyptians to be very astute.Recent research suggests cinnamon canhelp kill virulent bacteria, stabilise bloodsugar, quell inflammation and preventblood platelets from clumping together. Inaddition, Germany’s Commission E, a gov-ernmental regulatory agency, has approvedcinnamon as a treatment for appetite lossand indigestion. During the holidays, it’seasy to reap cinnamon’s health benefits, asthe spice shows up in everything frompumpkin pie to mulled wine. My favouritefestive cinnamon treat is the delicate Ger-man cookie called Zimtsterne (cinnamonstars). Victoria’s Rheinland Bakery makes aparticularly scrumptious version of this Eu-ropean classic.

CLOVESMedicinally cloves have been used for mil-lennia to treat bad breath, dental pain, par-asite infections and athlete’s foot. India’straditional Ayurvedic healers use cloves totreat respiratory and digestive ailments.And now there is scientific evidence to sup-port all this faith in the humble clove. Whilepomegranates and blueberries have gar-nered a lot of attention for their antioxidantcontent, scientists have recently discoveredthe unheralded clove outranks them both.A teaspoon of clove powder contains 25percent more antioxidants than a cup ofpomegranate juice or a half cup of blueber-ries. In addition to cancer-fighting antioxi-dants, cloves contain manganese, omega-3fatty acids and calcium. For me the merescent of cloves evokes memories of mymother making mincemeat tarts—the best,(of course) I have ever tasted. Since momis no longer with us, I now get my “best”clove experience by savouring the divinemincemeat tarts from Oak Bay’s VillagePatisserie.

GINGERMentioned in the writings of Confucius andin the Koran, ginger has long been heralded

as a digestive aid. Indeed, its best-knownmedicinal use is quelling nausea and indi-gestion. However, recent studies suggestginger may be a powerful weapon againstmore serious problems like cancer andheart disease. Gingerol, the main activecompound in ginger, has been shown tooffer protection against colorectal and ovar-ian cancer. It also protects your heart bypreventing blood clots. But ginger’s bene-fits don’t end there—it’s also a powerfulanti-inflammatory and is endorsed by theArthritis Foundation as an effective remedyfor pain. In fact, ginger is so concentratedin healthy phytochemicals that you do notneed to consume much to see beneficial ef-fects—a inch slice per day of the fresh“root” is what experts recommend. Duringthe holidays you can reach your gingerquota by indulging in one of the season’sde rigueur delights—gingerbread. VillagePatisserie and Patisserie Daniel both makeheavenly versions.

NUTMEGLike other members of the holiday spicequartet, nutmeg has long been lauded forits medicinal powers. In Elizabethan times,it was considered standard treatment forimpotence, diarrhea and insomnia. Currentscientific evidence suggests nutmeg is sat-urated with cancer-fighting antioxidantsand contains specific substances that canprotect our cells from radiation-inducedDNA damage. But who needs an excuse touse a spice whose aroma is as delicious asits taste? Nutmeg combines well with otherholiday spices and complements egg andcheese dishes, as well as seasonal vegeta-bles like squash. My cravings for the aro-matic spice are satisfied by my yearlypilgrimage to Vancouver’s Notte’s Bon TonBakery, where I load up on their fabulousLeckerle cookies and their unrivalled plumpudding. I readily confess to being quitefond of Thrifty’s “good as homemade”pumpkin pie too.

Non-irradiated spices can be purchased atPlenty in Victoria (www.epicureanpantry.ca)or from South China Seas Trading Companyin Vancouver (www.southchinaseas.ca).

GOOD FOR YOU — by Pam Durkin

THE SPICEQUARTET

HaisaFollowers ofa new restaube open fordays. The resIngredients

Georgian BaHaisai is a

go.

794079 Co705-445-27


Zoe O'Doherty The Marina Resaturanant 250.598.8555Hmmm... that is a tough question as winter is my favorite time to cook. I look forward topractising my Malaysian lamb curry. I don't get to make it very often because I have to goto Vancouver to get the ingredients. There's nothing better then staying inside on a coldrainy day submerged in the intoxicating scents of exotic spices, stewed meat and fragrantcoconut rice. It fills not only our apartment, but most of our little Fernwood apartmentbuilding as well. Thanks for asking, thinking about curry has made me hungry. Good thingI have left over Chinese take out in the fridge!

Rory Leek Smoken Bones Cookshack 250.391.6328I'm looking forward to busting out the slow cooker. For me winter is all about comfort food.Stews, casseroles and soups bring me back to my time living at home. Wild mushrooms andwinter squash are on my list of favourite ingredients so I'll be in heaven the next fewmonths!

Paul de Ridder Atlas Cafe 250.338.9838I am looking forward to cooking with local inspired produce and proteins that will keepyou warm and your taste buds alive. I like local free-run stuffed chicken breast filled withLittle Qualicum brie cheese, roasted garlic and fresh basil with a roasted red pepper creamsauce. Or, jalapeno glazed 10 oz AAA Sterling Silver ribeye steak and grilled smoked cornsalsa. If I run low on ideas I can refer to the North Island Vancouver chefs association newcook book Island Inspirations full of great local recipes.

Mike Dunlop Vista 18 250.382.9258I'm looking forward to cooking anything that is not on are summer menu. After doing aseasonal menu for so many years my body just knows when to change the menu. I get alltwitchy and bored and look for anything new to do at this time of year, especially mush-rooms of all kinds. We made a dedication to not use any mushroom in the summer so nowit's time to use mushrooms again!

Heather Standish Tita's Mexican Restaurant 250.334.8033We get these fabulous plump BC raised organic Cornish game hens. We inject them witha blend of good tequila and white wine, then slow roast them on a bed of onions. Thesmells that fill the whole restaurant... my mouth is watering just thinking about it! Weserve the chicken with this amazing green pipian sauce made from roasted jalapenos,toasted sesame seeds, tomatillos and a touch of anise. The flavours are unlike anythingelse I've ever eaten. I have dreams about this dish on a regular basis.

Jenna Landry Heron Rock Bistro 250.383.1545The holiday season is always my favourite time to cook. Apples, squash, brown sugar,sweet potato, sage and slow braised meats are an exciting thought every year. And freshlocal ingredients make all the difference!

Julian Obererlacher Fairburn Farm 250.746.4637This winter I'm looking forward to hunting my first deer. I just got my hunting license andI want to go through the whole process—hunting, butchering and finally, eating it.

Bruno I. de F. Trigo Café Brio 250.383.0009We will be getting some rabbit from a producer on the island any time now – that's a greattreat! I'd also like to bring tripe back onto the menu. It makes a tasty heart- warming dishprepared with chick peas or navy beans, especially if served with ale! The scarce avail-ability of produce makes winter more challenging. But pears, winter squash,cabbage, rootvegetables (beets, turnips or the more unusual parsley root) are my favourites.

Weask sous chefs: “What are you lookingforward to cooking this winter?”

CHEF’S TALK — by Ceara Lornie

health.

eed, its best-knownng nausea and indi-ent studies suggestrful weapon against

ms like cancer androl, the main activehas been shown tot colorectal and ovar-

otects your heart bys. But ginger’s bene-it’s also a powerful

d is endorsed by thes an effective remedyr is so concentratedcals that you do not

h to see beneficial ef-per day of the freshrecommend. During

reach your gingerone of the season’s

gingerbread. Villagerie Daniel both make

of the holiday spiceong been lauded forn Elizabethan times,ndard treatment fornd insomnia. Currentggests nutmeg is sat-ghting antioxidantssubstances that can

m radiation-inducedo needs an excuse toma is as delicious asbines well with othermplements egg andas seasonal vegeta-

cravings for the aro-sfied by my yearlyer’s Notte’s Bon Ton

up on their fabulousheir unrivalled plum

nfess to being quiteod as homemade”

can be purchased atw.epicureanpantry.ca)eas Trading Companyuthchinaseas.ca).

ET

HaisaiFollowers of Ontario chef Michael and Nobuyo Stadtländer will want to know he has openeda new restaurant called Haisai. Located not far from their celebrated Eigensinn Farm, Haisai willbe open for dinner Thursday-Sunday by reservation; and for lunch Saturdays and Sun-days. The restaurant is licensed.Ingredients will be sourced closed to home from local farmers, fishers and gardeners in the

Georgian Bay and Niagara escarpment areasHaisai is also a bakery offering bread and pastries from local grains and prepared foods to

go.

794079 Country Road 124, RR#2, Singhampton, Ontario705-445-2748 www.haisairestaurantbakery.com


RebeccaWellm

am

G.H

ynesRESTAURANT REPORTER: VICTORIA

Chef Patrick Lynch with Laksa with Local Fish (seasonal fresh fish dumplings, market veg andShanghai noodles in a yellow curry coconut broth with fresh cilantro, thai basil and lime).

RebeccaWellm

am

Foo | 769 Yates St. | 250-383-3111| foofood.ca

Foo is where you should go when you are aching to be back in Indonesia, ogling rice padi upon rice padi, or Thailand,dizzy with beauty and tastebud-tied for mere pennies. Foo is where you should go when you have not yet travelled but wantto be transported somewhere exotic, succulent and satisfying. Or if you just want a lovely tuck-in. Co-owner Sterling Grice(Brasserie L’Ecole) and co-owner/chef Patrick Lynch’s (Sanuk, Monsoon) combined adventures, interpretations and zealfor travel communicate thoughtfully and thoroughly in this excellent addition to Victoria’s culinary portfolio.

The prawn and pork lettuce cups reminded me the most of authentic Asian street food. First of all, upon sight, it was im-possible to gauge what meat lay mashed into the steaming mess of coconut cream, lemongrass and kaffir lime leaf good-ness. Second, it was messy. I scooped a pile into a lettuce cup that managed to drip down the length of my arm and I didnot care because it was fantastic. The collective effort was tactile, hot, sloppy and delicious, though I would probably skipit on a first date.

The butter chicken, slow-cooked thigh in Indian-spiced tomato cream sauce, gave me pause. The flavors were rich, sub-tle and delicate. The coriander and smoked chili fry bread was a crisp yet warm pillowy way to sop up every last bit of thedecadent sauce. It was one of those dishes that reminded me why sometimes it is nice when there is not too much heat;your attention can really focus on nuance.

The laksa with local fish had fresh halibut dumplings, handmade, tender and remarkable. The slippery Shanghai noo-dles writhe in a yellow curry coconut broth with fresh cilantro, Thai basil and lime. The balance of flavours was wonder-ful.

Patrick Lynch is adept at conscientious gastronomic appropriation; he introduces fall-off-the-bone short ribs to chowmein with broccoli, and his spin on paneer is refreshing. The paneer cheese dumplings include sultanas and almonds andthey are deep-fried, wading in a sumptuous puddle of gorgeous masala. The crispy husk of the dumpling that opens ontoa smooth and scrumptious inner world is a little gift.

The next time your nine to five is getting you down, and the winter rain and wind are mocking the travel guides anddusty photos you have demoted to the back of your closet, go to Foo and order four dishes. Works a charm, I promise. Ihave tried it more than once.

Foo is open seven days a week, and all dishes are $11 or less. Nice. At this time, they are not licensed, but they are inthe process. 769 Yates St., Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Saturday, 5:00-10:00 p.m., and Sunday, 5:00-9:00 p.m.

—by Gillie Easdon

Terrasse Dining on Cook Street

If you’ve walked through Cook Street Village lately, you mayhave noticed a little more activity in the parking lot adjacent toBubby Rose’s Bakery. What started with Red Fish Blue Fish’s satel-lite operation, 1 Fish 2 Fish, back in February, has grown to a cozycluster of street carts. A sign on the wall reads “The Food Court isExpanding,” and looking around I can tell that someone has a vi-sion.

“You’re late,” the vendor at 1 Fish 2 Fish tells me when I answerhis question about why I am scribbling notes in front of his neigh-bour’s cart. “We were up to eight in the summer. There was asmoothie place and a bubble tea cart.” I ask about Buna, the cartopposite his, which is closed this afternoon but has a board upadvertising Ethiopian coffee, falafel and baklava. (I can’t help butthink that’s a lot of cuisines for one small space.) He’s not sure.“They closed for a family vacation. Maybe they’re just doing week-ends now.”

I’ve already had lunch but am curious about Caffè Fantastico’slatte after reading about it here in EAT earlier this year. I take mymug out through the back door of the Village Food Court and finda little table under a tree from which I can observe the late lunch-hour millings around this developing outdoor section. Sitting inthe corner of the L-shaped lot that links McKenzie to Cook Street,I realize I didn’t spend nearly enough time out on a terrasse thissummer. As a transplanted Montrealer, I have a deep apprecia-tion for the outdoor dining and wining experience—from curbsidecafés to little neighbourhood restaurants hiding a diminutivecourtyard out back with twinkling lights in the trees. In fact, thereisn’t a meal I wouldn’t rather eat outside, if the weather is right. Istudy my surroundings, notice the parking lines painted on thetarmac and decide that this parking-lot-turned-patio has sometwinkly terrasse potential.

This could be nice, I think. With a little work, it could be reallynice. And a little work is happening, slowly but surely. There aresigns of construction on site, and the vendors report that whilefinishing the stairs is the top priority, there is also talk of a stagein one corner. James, who is manning the cart at 1 Fish 2 Fish,mentions the need for a covered setting and possible heat lampsto see the kiosks through the rainy months, although both he andJesse (of Jesse’s Grill) think they will close down from Decemberto February. Permits to install some such structure are currentlyunder negotiation between Marc Fagen, the property owner, andthe city.

I speak to the other Jesse, on duty in the Mean Bean, BubbyRose’s coffee outpost, which he says will be open year-round. Ifyou’re stopping in for a bite at Bubby Rose’s, you can still pay foryour coffee with your food inside but will then be redirected tothe Mean Bean to get the coffee part of your order. Gaia LivingFoods, a new cart promising raw, vegan and organic foods, mayalready be open by the time this is published. With a solid selec-tion of high-quality street fare and more imminent improvementsto the setting, the kiosks of Cook Street are well worth a visit, andmy guess is they will be even more so once the reality catches upwith the vision. —by Rebecca Baugniet

The

EA—byE

Café Mar

Café Marrakemy palate. Thsimmered wijuicy chickendish one dayother surpriscinnamon anand the flavosidering its uThe lunch mecourse is unchicken, lamroasted carroportant additto ask for theThe décor atburgundy antres suburbathough, theswelcoming; mtween them,licious meal.

Topo’s ReOn the otherwith warm brspite the elegwith a four-coThe way I setipasto” of freit sounded, adressing. Of tthe best, withsmell waftedPranza” cour

James MacIntyre at 1Fish 2Fishcall 250-298-6877 for winter hours

(L) Lamb w(R) Morocc


RebeccaWellm

am

G.H

ynes

waterfront restaurant + patio

Your staff will love you.Book your holiday party today.

INN AT LAUREL POINT680 MONTREAL STREET T 250.414.6739 WWW.AURARESTAURANT.CA

et

ely, you mayot adjacent toe Fish’s satel-own to a cozyFood Court is

eone has a vi-

when I answert of his neigh-There was a

Buna, the cartas a board upcan’t help butHe’s not sure.t doing week-

è Fantastico’sear. I take my

Court and findhe late lunch-ion. Sitting ino Cook Street,

terrasse thiseep apprecia-from curbsidea diminutive

. In fact, therether is right. Iainted on thetio has some

ould be reallyely. There areort that whilealk of a stage1 Fish 2 Fish,le heat lampsh both he andom December

are currentlyty owner, and

Bean, Bubbyyear-round. If

an still pay forredirected tor. Gaia Livingic foods, maya solid selec-

mprovementsth a visit, andty catches up

The Budget Gourmet

EATINGWELLFORLESS—byElizabeth Smyth

Café Marrakesh | 2551 Quadra Street near Kings | 250.412.0774

Café Marrakesh, in Quadra Village, has introduced me to some flavours completely new tomy palate. The first of these is pickled lemon, yes pickled lemon. A half pickled lemon issimmered with free-range chicken and black olives; the flavours in the lemony sauce andjuicy chicken come almost exclusively from this delicacy. I was lucky enough to have thisdish one day as the lunch special for a mere $9.95; on the dinner menu it’s $17.95. Theother surprising flavor combination was lamb sweetened with honey and seasoned withcinnamon and other spices. This lamb was surrounded by plump prunes and raw almonds,and the flavours melded beautifully. It’s on the dinner menu for $17.95, which is fair con-sidering its uniqueness, but maybe you’ll get lucky one day and get it as a lunch special.The lunch menu again steps forward as a really great budget option; every single maincourse is under $10. Most of those are couscous dishes, with choices of vegetables,chicken, lamb, and fish. The vegetable couscous has a rough charm, with large chunks ofroasted carrot and turnip atop a bed of deeply flavourful couscous. Moroccan tea is an im-portant addition to the meal; this green tea is steeped with brown sugar and mint; be sureto ask for the sugar steeped with the tea and not on the side for the true authentic flavor.The décor at Café Marrakesh can most kindly be described as quirky. Opulent accents likeburgundy and gold cushions on divans contrast with carpeting and a low ceiling that aretres suburban rec room, altogether creating an unintended student vibe. Somehow,though, these contrasting elements are part of an atmosphere that is casual, warm andwelcoming; my husband and child mellowed out on the divan with a game of Trouble be-tween them, going back to it between courses, and we all enjoyed a very relaxed and de-licious meal.

Topo’s Restaurant | 1218 Wharf St, near Pandora | 250.383.1212On the other end of the glamour scale is Topo’s Restaurant, in a dramatic historic buildingwith warm brick walls, sexy lighting, and a picture window with a partial harbor view. De-spite the elegance of the space, Topo’s is stepping up to the problem of recessionary timeswith a four-course prix fixe menu on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays for only $23.50.The way I see it, that comes to $6 a course. The week I went, the menu offered an “An-tipasto” of fresh apricot with marscapone and blue cheese, Which tasted less exciting thanit sounded, and then a “Primo” of local roasted corn soup or Mista salad with fresh basildressing. Of these three items, even though it sounds the least glamorous, the salad wasthe best, with its fragrant dressing and asiago and parmesan so freshly grated its delicioussmell wafted towards me before it even made it to my place setting. The “Secondo diPranza” course had two pieces de resistance. The classic manicotti dish was a crepe filled

Fish

(L) Lamb with prunes and almonds (made with a blend of 75 spices!)(R) Moroccan chicken with olives and lemons


with ricotta, spinach, garlic and herbs; I appreciated the abundance of spinach in the mix,and I appreciated even more the perfectly proportioned tomato and béchamel sauce it wasbaked with – the creaminess was perfectly balanced with the slight tang of tomato. The hal-ibut dish was more nouveau cuisine, and was a delight to behold as well as taste. Goldenbrown, oven-seared halibut was wrapped in prosciutto and set atop four crab and prawnravioli and crisp and moist yellow beans and then garnished with luscious slices of figsand a scattering of pine nuts. Setting all this off was a fascinating and opulent beet re-duction, perfumed with balsamic vinegar. Beautiful. For dessert, or the “Dolce” course,the Pavlova was another deconstructed dish, with a wild berry compote mounded besidea swirling island of meringue, and garnished with Cape gooseberries. More classic was theluxurious warm chocolate fudge cake surrounded by dainty puffs of cream and accompa-nied with a scoop of delicate ice cream. The menu will be different each week dependingon what’s fresh, but no matter what’s on offer, it’s clear the chef knows how to sear andpresent fish as well as create Italian classics.

Merridale Cidery | 1230 Merridale Road, Cobble Hill |250.743.4293Merridale Cidery in Cobble Hill is a comfortable mix of casual and elegant, being a spa-cious and airy chalet surrounded by apple orchards, forest, and distant mountains. It goeswithout saying that the first order has to be a flight of the ciders they make, ranging fromfull-bodied and dry to sweet and rich. How else will you know what to drink with the en-trees? OK, I’m being disingenuous, because the menu conveniently pairs cider suggestionswith the foods, but I’m sure you can come up with your own excuse for trying every cider.Be sure to have a soup course after your cider course – both soups were standouts. Theparsnip and apple soup was a creamy, soft green with a subtle parsnip flavor that danceswith a slight tartness of apple at the finish. I wanted more, and I officially don’t likeparsnips. This is a regular menu item; the soup of the day I tried was just as good and verycreative – chilled Roma tomato, orange, and oregano. These were $6 for a cup and $8 fora bowl. The Merridale Platter, with a variety of dips and spreads, is fun to try, and costs$25 for two people. The meaty liver pate is seasoned with Cowichan Valley red wine andthyme from the garden, and the creamy artichoke dip has a delicate taste of curry. A sweetonion jam and tart, lemony red pepper humous round out the dips. But above all, do notleave without trying the Scrumpy Chicken Pot Pie for $14. My server tipped me off, and I willbe forever grateful. Cowichan Bay chicken is poached in cider, and swims alongside mush-rooms and local vegetables in a sauce concocted from Merridale’s Traditional Cider, cream,and Dijon mustard. This rich, steaming stew is topped with a crown of puffy pastry, whichmakes it feel like a present being unwrapped. This is an entertaining place to visit, sincethere is a also a self-guided tour of the cidery. They are open for lunches, and in the win-ter are open on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays for dinner. It’s wise to call ahead, as some-times the beautiful space gets booked for weddings. Check www.merridalecider.com fordirections.Yo u b o u , C o w i c h a n L a k e , B r i t i s h C o l u m b i a

10524 Youbou Rd | 250-745-3388 | w w w.youboubargri l l .com

YOUBOU RD. COWICHAN VALLEY HIGHWAY

LAKE RD.COWIC HAN TransCan

HW

Y

Duncan

Victoria

EXCELLENT FOODBEAUTIFUL VIEWSWORTH THE DRIVE!

CowichanLake

Victoria

Nanaimo

HWY 18

Nanaimo

RebeccaWellm

am

RebeccaWellm

am

Chef Ryan Bradstock at Topo’s prosciutto wrapped halibut, crab andprawn ravioli, yellow beans, figs, pine nuts, beet reduction, balsamic.

(L) Scrum(R) Janet

The name cLocals is a locproduct—inbounty of theple and itinerdream of sucSt. Pierre, exand Spa, actuand largesseTannadice FaIsland Bisonery for duckevery turn.

Locals offeing ling codfrom steamecurry. An amuter with acranberry vindollop of bubudget-slashstarter is Apbuttery IslanWhaletown Broll and, oddon brioche. Sveals the St.nicely searedvegetable suoil and casheis massive; mTellingly, thefarmed in th

Locals | U| www.loc


ch in the mix,l sauce it was

mato. The hal-taste. Goldenab and prawnslices of figs

ulent beet re-olce” course,unded besideassic was thend accompa-

ek dependingw to sear and

being a spa-ntains. It goes

ranging fromk with the en-r suggestionsg every cider.andouts. Ther that danceslly don’t like

good and veryup and $8 fortry, and costsred wine and

curry. A sweetve all, do notoff, and I will

ngside mush-Cider, cream,pastry, whichto visit, sincend in the win-ead, as some-cider.com for

RebeccaWellm

am

RebeccaWellm

am

crab andbalsamic.

(L) Scrumpy chicken pot pie.(R) Janet Docherty at Merridale Cider’s La Pommeraie Bistro.

The name could hardly be more literal:Locals is a local restaurant focusing on localproduct—in this case, the impressivebounty of the Comox Valley—for local peo-ple and itinerant foodies. Where other chefsdream of such a feat, portly, smiling RonaldSt. Pierre, ex-Kingfisher Oceanside Resortand Spa, actually pulls it off. And with styleand largesse: he salutes local producers—Tannadice Farm for vegetables and meats,Island Bison for buffalo, Christine’s Quack-ery for duck, Prontissima for pasta—atevery turn.

Locals offers fish—eight species includ-ing ling cod and sablefish—in five waysfrom steamed to stir-fried with Thai greencurry. An amuse is a briny little Miyagi oys-ter with a splash of shallot-chive-cranberry vinaigrette, not the ubiquitousdollop of butternut squash so beloved ofbudget-slashers. The tour-of-the-oceanstarter is Appy’s Taster Platter ($16), withbuttery Island scallop tataki, explosiveWhaletown Bay oyster, shrimp and crab riceroll and, oddly, insipidly smoked tuna loinon brioche. Seared albacore loin ($14) re-veals the St. Pierre modus operandi, thenicely seared tuna served with a brace ofvegetable sushi rolls, soy ginger dip, chilioil and cashew coriander pesto. The plateis massive; mains are instantly superfluous.Tellingly, the wasabi is the real thing,farmed in the Comox Valley by Springs

Wasabi, not the counterfeit horseradish andfood colouring common in Victoria sushihouses.

A main of beef tenderloin morsels ($24)atop Prontissima egg fettuccine and driz-zled with white truffle oil proves more thanthe sum of its parts, an ensemble triumph.Bison tournedos ($29) bring juicy, deeplyflavourful Campbell River bison medallionswrapped in double-smoked bacon, char-broiled, set atop a bed of perfect Frenchlentils and garnished with caramelizedonion and lavender confit. It’s a wonderfuldish, probably worth the trek from Victoria,but also gargantuan—didn’t we say some-thing about St. Pierre largesse? Oops, noroom for dessert, notably crème brûléetaster and chocolate truffle cake (both $9).

A wine list tilted to Okanagan and Islandlabels leads to Wild Goose Blanc de Noirsrosé ($34), its strawberry-rhubarb notesreminiscent of Tavel, and silky, mouth-fillingCab Sauv ($38) from the local BeaufortVineyard & Estate Winery, which, inciden-tally, marched off with gold at the 2009 AllCanadian Wine Championships.

For lunch, jump at the smoked bisonsandwich ($15), house-smoked bisonbrisket and Natural Pastures Parmadammercheese grilled on multigrain rye. Wash itdown with suds from Surgenor, the ComoxValley brewery. –Jeremy Ferguson

Locals | Unit C, 368 8th St., Courtenay | 250-338-6493| www.localscomoxvalley.com.

ColinNew

ell

Ken’s Cafe | 5303 West Saanich Road | Open 7 days a week.www.kenscafeatprospectlake.ca

At 60 years young, Ken van Gylswyk has awhole lot of great food to dish up – andthis was his thinking when his cateringcontract at the Commonwealth poolended with the closing of the WavesideCafé.

And not wanting to put his feet up, hetackled the gargantuan effort of renovat-ing the old Prospect Lake Market into acountryside diner. With results!

Andrea and I sit on one of the 2 patioswhile plates of all-day breakfast and lunchitems fly by. In a couple of visits I samplethe pancake breakfast; impossibly lightcakes cooked to perfection and servedwith a side of locally produced sausages –

My wife checks out the hamburger which is more meat-loaf like than the average pre-fabri-cated patty.

Ken’s menu secret is the Dutch selections, an example being the Uitsmijter; a mouthfulwith rustic brown bread, lettuce, ham, two eggs, tomato and slivered onions at the impossi-ble price of $7.50.

According to a devoted employee, Sofia, Ken has made a café that is as much communitymeeting place as it is rural roadside diner – it has the menu of the inner city coffee shop buta country spirit like nothing you will find downtown. —Colin Newell

The Uitsmijter at Ken’s Cafe

WINTER WARMER WINE PICKQuails’ Gate – Tawny NV Okanagan Valley, $30.00 for 375ml

WebWine Editor TREVE RING shares her latest discovery.I had a great tasting at Quails’ Gate recently, and while I could easily write on multiple QGwines, my web column is called WINE (sing. not plu.) of the Week for a reason. Hmm – sohow to chose? There’s the floral-meets-green apple crisp Chenin Blanc 2008 (the 2007 vintagewas the only white wine served to Obama during his Ottawa visit earlier this year), and theStewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2007 (an incredibly smooth, refined and earthily elegantwine).

Well, this little fortified beauty was 8 years in the making, only 800 cases were released lastyear, and the next time the cycle comes around won’t be for another few years. So that’s rea-son enough! Call to action – try now!

Plus the fact that this very unusual wine has stuck in my mind for over a week – and has mekicking myself for not picking up a bottle for my cellar. Started in 2000, this 100% Gamay Noirwas fortified with spirit and carefully cellar aged in French oak for 60-84 months. Pointed aro-mas of orange oil, rancio and aged cedar lead to silky and rich butterscotch, honeyed citrus,candied fruit and herbs. Nice acid throughout, with medium sweetness (I’d guess 5 on thesweetness scale) and light tannins. This wine will continue to gain complexity over the nextfew years and would be delightful with roasted nuts and dried Okanagan fruit. And if youdon’t buy some soon – don’t say I didn’t warn you.For more web wine picks visit www.eatmagazine.ca


Holiday Desserts, Modernized ClassicsThe holiday season is upon us and it’s time for indulging a bit! Our festive meals of classic roasted turkey, prime ribsof beef and other favourites, always end with a show-stopping dessert. From traditional steamed plum pudding, tocream and custard filled trifles to rich pumpkin pies, these desserts have always played a special end to that holidaymeal.For a change of traditional festive fare, here are five desserts that will spruce up your meal, a few old-time favourites

that have been modernized and a couple of new sweet inspirations. Happy Holidays!—BY NATHAN FONG

TraceyKusiew

icz

EGGNWARMTraditionallybeen updateand lighteneServes 8 to

Eggnog Pas

• 6 Tbsp (9• 4 Tbsp (6• ¼ tsp (2m• 2 large e• 2 large e• 2 cups (5• 3 Tbsp (4• 1 cup (25

In a mixing bsmooth. HeaPour a smalslowly add treaches boiproof bowl,

Whip creachill.Poke a smabag fitted wand pipe inChocolate A

Profiteroles

• 1 cup (25• ½ cup (1• 1 Tbsp (1• 1 cup (25• 4 extra la

Preheat oveIn a sauce

immediatelycomes togetbefore addin

Place mixtabout 2 TbsBake for 15hollow when15 minutes.

Spiced Choc

• 2 cups (50• ½ cup (12• 2 tsp (10m• 1 Tbsp (15• 3 Tbsp (30• 1/3 cup (8• 6 egg yolk

EGGNOG PROFITEROLES ã|à{WARM SPICED CHOCOLATE SAUCE


sibsto

day

tes

TraceyKusiew

icz

EGGNOG PROFITEROLES ã|à{WARM SPICED CHOCOLATE SAUCETraditionally, profiteroles are filled with vanilla ice cream or pastry cream but these havebeen updated with a holiday favourite of eggnog. A rich pastry cream made with eggnogand lightened with whipped cream is served with a Mayan style spiced chocolate sauce.Serves 8 to 10

Eggnog Pastry Cream

• 6 Tbsp (90g) sugar• 4 Tbsp (60g) cornstarch• ¼ tsp (2ml) nutmeg• 2 large egg yolks• 2 large eggs• 2 cups (500ml) eggnog• 3 Tbsp (45ml) rum (optional)• 1 cup (250ml) whipping cream

In a mixing bowl, mix together sugar, cornstarch and nutmeg. Beat in eggs and mix untilsmooth. Heat eggnog over medium heat until scalding but do not boil or it will curdle.Pour a small amount of the hot eggnog into the egg mixture and mix until smooth, thenslowly add the rest, mixing well. Return to saucepan and cook, stirring often, until itreaches boiling point and thickens. Remove from heat and stir in rum. Pour into a heat-proof bowl, wrap with plastic wrap, and refrigerate.

Whip cream until stiff peaks form; fold gently into chilled eggnog mixture. Cover andchill.Poke a small hole in the bottom of each profiteroles; pipe in eggnog cream with a pastrybag fitted with a π-inch plain tip. Alternatively, cut a third off the top of each profiteroleand pipe in the filling and cover with the top. Chill before serving. Serve with SpicedChocolate Anglaise.

Profiteroles

• 1 cup (250ml) water• ½ cup (125g) butter• 1 Tbsp (15ml) sugar• 1 cup (250g) all-purpose flour• 4 extra large eggs

Preheat oven to 400F (205C)In a saucepan, slowly bring the water, butter and sugar to a boil. Remove from heat and

immediately add all the flour and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the doughcomes together and forms a ball. Beat in eggs one at a time, mixing until well incorporatedbefore adding the next egg.

Place mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch plain tip. Pipe into small rounds,about 2 Tbsp each, onto a parchment paper-lined baking sheet, keeping 2- inches apart.Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce heat to 375F (190C) until they are dark brown and soundhollow when tapped, about another 15 minutes. Place on cooling rack and allow to sit for15 minutes.

Spiced Chocolate Anglaise

• 2 cups (500ml) chocolate milk• ½ cup (125ml) whipping cream• 2 tsp (10ml) cinnamon• 1 Tbsp (15ml) chili powder (optional)• 3 Tbsp (30ml) cocoa• 1/3 cup (80ml) sugar• 6 egg yolks

Bring the chocolate milk and whipping cream to scalding point. In a mixing bowl, mix to-gether until well blended the cinnamon, chili powder, cocoa, sugar and yolks. Slow whiskin a small amount of the hot chocolate milk until blended then slowly add the rest.Pour mixture back into the saucepan and gently heat just to boiling point. Do not boil ormixture will curdle. Reduce heat and cook slowly, stirring until it thickens enough to coatthe back of a wooden spoon.

Immediately remove from heat and pour through a fine mesh strainer into a cool bowl.Cover and refrigerate until chilled.

FRESH MANGO tÇw MACADAMIANUT TRIFLES ã|à{ LIME SYRUPThe English Trifle has always been a popular holiday dessert with liqueur infused cubes ofcake enrobed with fruit preserves, mousse or pastry cream, and slathered with mounds ofwhipped cream. In this updated recipe, I bring a bit of sunshine and tropics to the holidayseason with a twist of this classic, by introducing a macadamia nut cake soaked with arum-kissed lime syrup and layered with fresh aromatic mangos and a light yogurt andwhipped cream “mousse.”Serves 10 to 12

• 1 ½ cups sugar• ½ cup lime juice• 2 Tbsp rum (optional)• 1 ½ cups plus thick Greek style or strained yogurt• 1 ½ cups lightly whipped cream• 3 ½ Tbsp icing sugar• 1 ½ tsp vanilla extract• Macadamia cake (see recipe below), cut into cubes• 4 large mangos, sliced• ¾ cup unsalted macadamia nuts, chopped

For the lime syrup place the sugar, lime juice and cup water in a saucepan over mediumheat and stir until sugar has dissolved. Increase heat to high, bring to a boil, then reduceheat and simmer for 10 minutes, or until slightly reduced. Allow to cool. Stir in rum.Whisk together the yogurt, cream, icing sugar, and vanilla until well combined. Place halfthe macadamia cake cubes into 12 individual serving dishes or one glass bowl. Drizzlewith half the lime syrup and top with half the mango slices, then half with the whippedcream mixture. Repeat the layers ending with the whipped cream layer on top and sprinklewith macadamia nuts.

Macadamia Cake

• 1 cup unsalted macadamia nuts• 6 eggs, separated• 1 cup sugar• ¾ cup plain yogurt• ½ cup canola oil• ¾ cup all purpose flour• 1 tsp baking powder

Preheat oven to 350F. Plghtly grease and line the base of a 9 x 12 inch baking pan withparchment paper.

Finely grind the nuts in a food processor. Place the egg yolks in a mixing bowl with halfof the sugar and beat until pale and very thick. Mix in the yogurt and oil, then fold in theground macadamias, flour, baking powder, and a pinch of salt.

In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until soft peak stage, then slowly beat in the re-maining sugar and beat until stiff peaks form and the mixture is glossy. Gently fold half theegg whites into the macadamia batter, then gently fold in the remainder.

Pour into the baking pan and place into the oven and bake for 25 minutes, or untillightly golden. Leave to cool in the pan for 10 minutes before turing out onto a wire rack tocool completely.

EASY BAKED PLUM PUDDINGS ã|à{BRANDY SAUCEI’ve never been a fan of the traditional steamed plum pudding as I’ve always thought it as avery heavy dessert served after a heavy holiday dinner…especially made the old fashionway of including suet into the batter! With this modernized classic, I’ve updated the recipeby baking a lighter style fruit and spice cake and infusing the warm cakes with rum…theonly traditional kept is the ubiquitous brandy sauce!Serves 8 to 10

• 1 ½ cups raisins• ½ cup candied peel• ½ cup currants• ½ cup glace fruit (apricots or cherries)• ¾ cup (6 oz) unsalted butter• 1 ¼ tsp baking soda• ¾ cup brown sugar• 2 Tbsps marmalade• 4 Tbsp brandy• 1 ½ cups all purpose flour• 2 ½ tsp baking powder• ¾ tsp cinnamon• ¼ tsp clove• ¼ tsp allspice• ½ tsp nutmeg• 1 ½ tsp cocoa powder• 2 eggs, lightly beaten• Brandy Sauce (see recipe below)

Preheat oven to 350F. Grease ten 7 to 8 oz muffin tins or ramekins. Place the dried fruit,butter, baking soda, sugar, marmalade, 1 Tbsp of the brandy and 1 cup of water in asaucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly, then allow to cool.

Sift together the flour, baking powder, spices and cocoa. Add the eggs to the cooled fruitmixture, then add the flour mixture and stir together. Spoon into the tins and bake for 25 to30 minutes, or until a skewer comes out clean when inserted into the middle. Remove fromoven and sprinkle with the rest of the brandy over the puddings while still warm. Servewith brandy sauce.

Brandy Sauce

• 2 cups milk• 1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped• 4 Tbsp sugar• 2 Tbsp cornstarch mixed with 4 Tbsp cold milk• 4 Tbsp butter• 1 Tbsp brandy

Place the milk, vanilla bean and seeds and sugar into a saucepan and bring to a gent boil.Still in the starch mixture and keep stirring until thickened. Stir in butter and brandy.

PUMPKIN CHEESECAKEA gingersnap and pecan crumb crust lines this rich holiday-spiced cheesecake, toppedwith caramel coated pecans. An irresistible alternative to the traditional pumpkin pie.

Serves 10 to 12

Crust:• ¼ lb (about 20 to 24 small) gingersnaps• 1/3 cup pecan halves• ¼ cup firmly packed light brown sugar• 4 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted

Filling:• ¾ cup firmly packed light brown sugar• 1 tsp cinnamon• ¼ tsp ground allspice• ¼ tsp ground ginger• ¼ tsp ground cloves• 1 lb cream cheese, at room temperature• 3 large eggs• 1 cup pumpkin pureeGarnish:• ½ cup pecan halves• 1 Tbsp unsalted butter• 2 Tbsp sugarPreheat oven to 350F. Lightly butter a 9-inch springform pan.

To make the crust, process the gingersnaps and pecans in a food processor until crum-bly. Add the brown sugar and melted butter and pulse for a few seconds to combine. Trans-fer mixture to the springform pan and using your fingers, pat the mixture into the bottomand evenly all the way up the sides of the pan. Refrigerate for 20 minutes.

To make the filling, mix together the brown sugar and spices. In a large mixing bowl, beatthe cream cheese with an electric mixer on medium speed until smooth and creamy. Gradu-ally add the brown sugar and spice mixture, beating until smooth. Beat in eggs one at atime, beating well after each addition. Add the pumpkin and beat until smooth. Using arubber spatula, scrape the batter into the chilled crust and smooth the top.

Place into preheated oven and bake until set, or until a knife inserted into the middle ofthe centre comes out clean, about 35 to 40 minutes. Let cool completely on a wire rack.Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

To make the garnish, set aside 10 pecan halves and coarsely chop the rest. In a smallskillet over medium-high heat, melt the butter. Add all of the pecans, sprinkle with sugarand cook, stirring, until the sugar melts and the nuts are toasted and caramel coated.Transfer to a plate and let cool completely. Store in an airtight container. Just before serv-ing, sprinkle the chopped pecans over the cheesecake and arrange the halves evenlyaround the perimeter.

Serve with whipped cream or brandy sauce.

CRANBERRY, CITRUS AND GINGERSEMIFREDDO with SPICED REDWINE SAUCEThis is a wonderful Italian frozen dessert that has a texture similar to that of a frozenmousse. A rich creamy filling spiked with orange liqueur infused dried fruits and nuts makethis a special holiday dessert, garnished with a lightly spiced red wine sauce.

• ½ cup (250ml) dried cranberries• ½ cup shelled unsalted pistachios• ¾ cup (180ml) Orange liqueur such as Triple Sec or Cointreau• ½ cup (60ml) candied citrus peel, coarsely chopped• 8 eggs, separated• 1 cup (250ml) sugar• pinch of salt• 2 cups (500ml) heavy cream• ¼ cup (60ml) crystallized ginger, coarsely chopped• 1 recipe Red Wine Sauce (see following)In a small saucepan cover the cranberries and pistachios with orange liqueur. Bring to aboil. Remove from heat, set aside to let the cranberries and pistachios infuse and rehy-drate for hour; mix in candied citrus and let mixture sit for another 30 minutes.

Line an 8-cup (2-liter) loaf or terrine pan with parchment paper or plastic wrap.Beat together the eggs, and gradually add in sugar and salt in a heavy bottomed pot or

on top of a double boiler until thick and glossy. Set aside to cool slightly.Beat the cream to soft peaks. Gently fold the egg mixture into the cream, fold in the

cranberries and candied orange peel mixture and crystallized ginger. Carefully transfer mix-ture into the prepared pan and freeze until firm, 8 hours or overnight.

To serve loosen the semifreddo with a knife and unmold. Slice with a hot wet knife. Driz-zle plate with red wine sauce and top with a slice of semifreddo.

Spiced Red W

• 4 cups (1• 2 cups (5• 1 vanilla• 1 strip of• 2 star aniIn a heavy sauntil the liquvanilla bean,

CHOZUPPThis Italian sand chocolatliqueurs.

Serves 6 to 8

• ½ cup esp• ½ cup cof• 2 Tbsp br• vanilla or• one 7 to• Chocolate• Finely gra

On a perfeRose LaneHaliburtonTerraliciousbanner hunright placearound a parray of tomthe circle, Iinvited to sternoon thatomato disto accompatour of theFood, and i‘conviviuma word, con

One of tGenova, knand Food Fcouver Islakindly agrelast week.2002, whedecided tonual Slowganizationand was apthis summeI inquire wh

Slow F

until crum-mbine. Trans-he bottom

ng bowl, beateamy. Gradu-s one at a. Using a

e middle ofwire rack.

n a smallwith sugarcoated.efore serv-evenly

GER

frozennd nuts make

Bring to aand rehy-es.ap.med pot or

ld in thetransfer mix-

et knife. Driz-

Spiced Red Wine Sauce

• 4 cups (1 litre) red wine• 2 cups (500ml) sugar• 1 vanilla bean, split• 1 strip of orange peel, about 2-inches (5cm)• 2 star anise, wholeIn a heavy saucepan combine all the ingredients. Bring to a boil and simmer to reduceuntil the liquid thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, bout 45 minutes. Removevanilla bean, peel and star anise. Serve cool.

CHOCOLATE CREAMZUPPA INGLESEThis Italian style dessert is somewhat like a tiramisu, but lighter and delicate, with vanillaand chocolate cream interwoven amongst light sponge cake soaked with espresso andliqueurs.

Serves 6 to 8

• ½ cup espresso coffee• ½ cup coffee liqueur• 2 Tbsp brandy• vanilla orange custard (see recipe below)• one 7 to 8 inch round sponge cake, cut into ½ inch slices• Chocolate Cream (see recipe below)• Finely grated dark chocolate or unsweetened cocoa

Mix together the coffee, liqueur and brandy. Using a large glass bowl or small glass servingdishes, add a small amount of the vanilla custard at the bottom of each dish, top with alayer of cake slice. Moisten the cake generously by spooning over the espresso mixture,followed by a layer of chocolate custard. Repeat the cake soaked with the espresso mix-ture, and top with vanilla custard. Repeat until all the layers until all the cake and custardhas been used, finishing with a layer of custard.

Chill for at least 4 hours, or overnight covered. Dust with chocolate shavings or cocoa be-fore serving.

VANILLA-ORANGE tÇwCHOCOLATE CUSTARD CREAM• 6 egg yolks• ½ cup icing sugar• 2 Tbsp all-purpose flour• 3 cups milk• 1 tsp orange liqueur• 1 tsp orange zest• 4 oz dark chocolate, finely choppedPlace the egg yolks and icing sugar in a mixing bowl and beat until pale yellow and creamy.Add the flour and beat until well combined. Heat the milk in a saucepan over medium highheat and bring almost to a boil. Remove from heat and gradually pour into the egg mixture,while steady whisking. Pour mixture back into saucepan and bring to a simmer, stirringconstantly until custard has thickened.

Remove from heat and divide the custard into two separate bowls. Whisk orange liqueurand orange zest into one bowl. Whisk in chocolate to the other bowl and mix until melted.

On a perfect late summer’s day in September, I drove upRose Lane in Saanich and parked beside the entrance toHaliburton Community Organic Farm. I saw a sign that saidTerralicious Garden and Cooking School, a large Slow Foodbanner hung up on the fence, and knew I had found theright place. I glanced over toward a small group, huddledaround a picnic table, carefully examining an impressivearray of tomato varieties. Although I didn’t know anyone inthe circle, I was warmly welcomed, handed a toothpick, andinvited to start tasting. What followed was a memorable af-ternoon that included a demonstration on saving seeds, atomato dish potluck (with iced tea and freshly baked breadto accompany it) shared outside in the sun, and a guidedtour of the farm. It was my first real acquaintance with SlowFood, and immediately I understood why they use the term‘convivium’ to describe themselves. The experience was, ina word, convivial.

One of the people I was soon introduced to was DonGenova, known to many as the voice of CBC’s Pacific Palateand Food For Thought, and now the new leader of the Van-couver Island and Gulf Islands Slow Food convivium. Hekindly agreed to answer some questions over the phonelast week. Don’s first encounter with the movement was in2002, when he was traveling from Germany to Rome, anddecided to stop in Turin for the Salone del Gusto, the an-nual Slow Food salon of taste. He officially joined the or-ganization in 2005, when he moved to Vancouver Island,and was appointed as new leader of the contingent earlierthis summer. Don jokingly asks me how long I’ve got whenI inquire what his new position entail, but trims it down to

the central objectives of guarding the spirit of the con-vivium, spreading the good word of slow food, and over-seeing the administration of the group.

Don reassures me that ‘slow food’ doesn’t necessarilydesignate food that takes a long time to prepare. He de-scribes a speedy and delicious lunch he recently preparedat home; a quesadilla made with local cheese and freshtomatillo salsa (“5 seconds in the food processor”), andstresses the focus should be on where the food comesfrom, as opposed to how long it takes to make it. As such,the main role for members to play, he says, “is not just amatter of being conscientious but of being pro-active andactively supporting those producers. We shall be ‘co-pro-ducers’”, clarifying that the term from the Slow Food man-ifesto implies that as you discover something, you tellothers about it, thus participating in the dissemination ofgood, clean and fair foods.

The group now stands seventy-five members strong, withan additional six on the executive. Don is quick to say howlucky the group is to have the two founding members ofthe Vancouver Island and Gulf Islands convivium sitting onthe executive; Dr. Sinclair Philip, Sooke Harbor Houseowner and Canada’s representative to Slow Food Interna-tional, and Mara Jernigan, owner of Fairburn Farm CulinaryRetreat and Guesthouse, and currently the president ofSlow Food Canada. When asked how Slow Food has influ-enced his work as a food writer and broadcaster, Don ex-plains that “Slow Food has been part of how my journalismhas changed over the years. I’m more interested in talkingto farmers and producers who are trying to lead a more sus-

tainable food life”, than writing what he calls “service arti-cles” that report on décor changes or new chefs at high endrestaurants.

My next Slow Food event is the Victoria premiere of FoodInc. The convivium has sponsored the showing, and thetheatre is packed. I asked Don if he thinks things are bet-ter here in Canada than what we saw depicted in docu-mentary, which clearly illustrated the extent to which bigbusiness has overtaken health concerns and sustainablefood options in the United States. While he doesn’t see anymajor strides occurring on a provincial or federal level inthis country, he does think things are getting better on alocal level. He cites cases such as the City of Vancouver’sproposed bylaw to allow urban chickens, the City of Duncandeciding to no longer purchase eggs from battery hens,Cowichan Bay becoming a Cittaslow, and the impressiveresponse he witnessed last summer when the CRD offeredplastic composters at a reduced rate as encouraging ex-amples. Another example might be the next function hementions, though still in the planning stages. Aiming forJanuary, the convivium is organizing a fish symposium mod-eled after the one Don attended in Genova in 2007, withthe intention of bringing together a panel of experts, chefsand local politicians to look for solutions to the challengesfacing fish, their producers and consumers. At a time whenso much of the news pertaining to food production appearsbleak, the Slow Food movement does offer a penetratingglimmer of hope. I’m looking forward to the next gathering.—Rebecca Baugniet

Slow Food Movement Picking Up Speed on Vancouver Island

Preparation

Place the oiluntil tenderRemove the

Place the pmeat crumbWhile stirrinroom/leek mCool the mixbe me a day

Roll out thBrush the eding. Crimp thin the centreminutes to fiseveral hour

Preheat thutes more. R

Dough for D• 3 cups all-• 1/2 tsp sal• 1 1/4 cups• 1/4 cup co• 1 large egg• 1/3 cup ice

Place the flothe flour untthe flour mixa floured wointo two equwrap each p


TourtÇw Yu

COVE

This is a tastmaking it, buse a store-ments, such

MichaelTourigny

The Cadboro Bay PeoplesCompounding Pharmacyprovides trusted and reliablepharmaceutical care includingfree prescription delivery, fullservice post office, online photofinishing, greeting cards,cosmetics and every day needs.We now provide compounding services! Medication compounding combines yesterday'sart of pharmacy with today's science and technology. Using our specialized skills andknowledge, we can work with you and your physician to design and prepare individual-ized medications to meet your unique needs and your pets too!Peoples Compounding Pharmacy3825 Cadboro Bay Road, Victoria (250) 477-2131 www.peoplesdrugmart.com

For Good Measure PremiumBulk Food offers three convenientways for you to enjoy Victoria'sfreshest selection of high-qualitybulk, natural and specialty food.Visit our store in the Cadboro BayVillage, we are open every day. Shoponline at www.forgoodmeasure.caand pick up your order all packed and ready to go, or shop online and have your orderdelivered.

For Good Measure Premium Bulk Food3831 Cadboro Bay Road, Victoria (250) 477-6811www.forgoodmeasure.ca

Olive Olio's is a popularneighbourhood coffee houseand bistro featuring dailylunch specials, assortedsavouries, pastries, and im-ported confections. EnjoyItalian gelato and sorbettoon our garden patio. Takeout available.

Olive Olio's Pasta & Espresso Bar3840 Cadboro Bay Road, Victoria (250) 477-6618

W shop. dine. relax.ELCOME TO CADBORO BAY VILLAGE

The Cadboro Bay Village offers something for everyone. Shop at the many clothing, book, gift,grocery and liquor stores; sample the fare of local cafes, bars, and restaurants; and discover the diverserange of professional services. It's all here. By the bay.

Ambrosio Markets & Deli is Victoria'strue European style market with specialtygrocery items, a deli complete withSaanich free-range meats, first gradeproduce, and a bistro with house-madelunches and Lavazza Espresso Bar. Every-thing in one, with a focus on theslow-food movement. Come in to preparefor the Dec. holidays and allow us to help

you with your corporate or personal gift baskets and food platters.Taste A World of Difference - our motto true and true...Ambrosio Markets & Deli2560 Sinclair Rd., Victoria (250)-479-2322 www.ambrosiomarkets.ca

Everyone Can Cook For CelebrationsAUTHOR: Eric Akis PUBLISHER: Whitecap Books

The fifth book in Eric Akis' Everyone Can Cook series tackles special occasions with panache.Like the other titles in the series, Everyone Can Cook for Celebrations, Seasonal Recipes for Festive Occasions, the Victoria

Times Colonist food writer, food consultant and chef, skillfully guides reluctant cooks, this time through all the steps necessaryto get a beautiful feast on the table.

The book is divided into eight colour-coded, seasonal chapters, from winter parties to summer long weekends and fall feasts.Each section ends with suggested menus, offering tips on what to prepare in advance, and how to bring it all together at theright time. In addition, all the recipes, including ones that might seem daunting to a novice cook, such as the Roast Leg of Lambwith Mint Pesto Crust or Roast Turkey with Herbes de Provence and Butter offer "Eric's Options" as a sidebar, providing thereader with a sense of being coached through any tricky parts.

Eric Akis' comprehensive cookbook boasts over 140 recipes and is designed to take the stress out of preparing deliciousmeals for special occasions.

Available at fine bookstores around BC.

BOOKS

Preparation time: 40 minutes, Cooking time: About 75 minutes,Makes: 8 servings

• 2 Tbsp olive oil• 1 medium leek, white and pale green partonly, cut in half lengthwise, washed & thinlysliced• 1/2 lb. brown mushrooms, thinly sliced• 1 3/4 lb. ground pork• 3 Tbsp flour• 1/2 cup chicken stock• 1 tsp minced fresh thyme• Pinches ground cinnamon and cloves• Salt and freshly ground black pepper totaste• 2 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley• 2 small to medium Yukon gold potatoes,peeled and cut into 1/4 inch cubes, boileduntil just tender, drained and cooled• Dough for double-crust, deep-dish pie (seebelow)• Egg wash (1 large egg beaten 1 Tbsp milk)

Place the oil in a large skillet set over medium heat. Add the leeks and mushrooms. Cookuntil tender and the moisture has evaporated from the mushrooms, about 6 to 7 minutes.Remove the heat.

Place the pork in a pot and set over medium heat. Cook, stirring frequently to make themeat crumbly, until the pork is cooked through. Mix in the flour and cook 2 minutes more.While stirring, slowly pour in the stock. Simmer the mixture 3 to 4 minutes. Mix in mush-room/leek mixture, thyme, cinnamon, cloves, salt, pepper, parsley and cooked potatoes.Cool the mixture to room temperature; cover and refrigerate until needed. (The filling canbe me a day in advance. Do not put hot filling into the crust.)

Roll out the bottom piecrust and set in your pie plate. Tightly pack the filling in to it.Brush the edges of the crust with the egg wash. Roll out the top crust and set it over fill-ing. Crimp the edges to seal. Brush the top of the tourtière with egg wash. Cut a small holein the centre of the tourtière to allow steam to escape. Refrigerate the tourtière at least 20minutes to firm up the pastry. (The tourtière, if kept refrigerated, can be made to this pointseveral hours in advance of baking.)

Preheat the oven 425˚F. Bake for 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350˚F and cook 30 min-utes more. Rest the tourtière 10 to 15 minutes before slicing.

Dough for Double Crust Pie• 3 cups all-purpose flour• 1/2 tsp salt• 1 1/4 cups cold vegetable shortening, cubed• 1/4 cup cold butter, cubed• 1 large egg• 1/3 cup ice cold water

Place the flour and salt in a bowl and whisk to combine. Cut the shortening and butter intothe flour until well incorporated. Beat the egg in a small bowl; mix in the water. Pour overthe flour mixture. Mix until a loose - it will be very moist - dough forms. Set the dough ona floured work surface. Flour your hands and shape the dough into a ball. Cut the doughinto two equal pieces. Press each piece of dough into a 1/2-inch thick disc. Individuallywrap each piece and refrigerate until needed.


(250) 642-35961831 Maple Ave. Sooke

www.markuswharfsiderestaurant.com

Vancouver Island’sbest kept secret

Markus’Wharfside Restaurant

TourtièrewithMushrooms, LeekstÇw YukonGoldPotatoes

COVER RECIPE

This is a tasty twist on the classic French Canadian meat pie. There are a few steps inmaking it, but the tasty results are worth it. If you are in a rush, you could cheat anduse a store-bought, deep-dish crust. Serve the tourtière with a selection of condi-ments, such as tomato relish, chutney, pickles and whole grain mustard.

MichaelTourigny

yesterday'sskills and

ndividual-

popularfee houseng dailyassortedand im-

s. Enjoysorbetto

tio. Take

e Victorianecessary

all feasts.her at theg of Lambviding the

delicious

26 EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DEEMBER 2009

KitchenLocal

Recipes and food styling by JENNIFER DANTERPhotography by GENEVIEVE LAPLANTE

DoD

Succulent Braised Pork

n


R

Dinner Party Entrée

SUCCULENT BRAISED PORKThis is based on a traditional Italian recipe where the pork is slow cooked inmilk. The meat is meltingly tender and the sauce takes on a slight caramel tasteand thick velvety texture. The cooking is a little finickity and requires attention,but well worth the work. The key is to turn the meat often and really scrape upthe stuck-on bits – they are full of flavour.Serves 4 plus enough for a 4-serving pasta dish.

• Boneless pork butt or shoulder roast, 41/2 to 5 lbs, rolled and tied (no skin)• Knob of butter• Garlic cloves, sliced, 3• Whole fresh sage leaves, 5• Smoky bacon, 2 strips, chopped• Island Farm homogenized milk, 3 cups• Island Farm whipping cream, 2 cups

Pat pork dry with towels. In a large, wide, heavy-bottomed saucepan or Dutchoven, melt a knob of butter over medium-high heat. Add pork and brown on allsides (if roast is too long for pan, cut in half ). Reduce heat as necessary. Re-move pork to plate and set heat to medium-low. Add garlic, sage and bacon. Stiroften until garlic is golden, 8 to 10 min.

Pour in 1 cup milk. Bring to a boil. Using a wooden spoon, scrape up and stirin brown bits from pan bottom. Add pork, fat-side down. Simmer, uncovered,for 30 min. Halfway through cooking remove pork from pan and scrape up bitsstuck to pan bottom, then return meat to pan (fat-side down) and continue cook-ing. (TIP: Place a baking sheet near stove – remove pork to that when scrapingand stirring.) The milk will split during cooking, but don’t worry about that. It’llcome together later on. Once it has cooked for 30 min, pour in another cup milkand flip pork over. Return to a boil, then reduce heat. Simmer for 30 more min.Repeat turning, stirring and scraping halfway through.

Pour in cream and remaining cup of milk. Bring to a boil, then cover and slowroast in preheated 300F oven, occasionally turning meat over and scraping upbits until pork is very tender, about 2 to 21/2 more hours. Place pork on a boardand cover with foil. Pour sauce into a blender and scrape in any brown bits frompan bottom – don’t be afraid to use some elbow grease! Add to sauce and whirluntil blended. Thickly slice meat and serve with a spoonful of sauce – it’s veryrich. Save leftover meat and sauce for the makings of a pasta dinner.

GREATGARNISH: Toss orange segments with a chopped shallot and Brusselssprout leaves. (Peel individual leaves from sprouts.) Toss with a little olive oil,white wine or rice vinegar and pinches of salt and fresh thyme.

Double DutyDinner Party

PORK

Cont’d on the next page

This is a clever way to stretch your dinner party dollars. Cook onefabulous meal to impress your guests, then transform leftovers intoanother meal for casual entertaining. Start with Succulent Braised Porkfor a formal sit-down, then turn the leftovers into a creamy pasta dishladen with seasonal veggies for a laidback night. Dish up Chevre Cheese-cake Pots with Cranberry-Blackberry Compote and save some of the com-pote to form the base for Blackberry-Cranberry Fizz cocktails.

Garbure is aseasonal vegpeasants of scast iron potetables to thpreserved gonual festivalla Garbure (Bbure, and thewest France.

This heartyand pocketbwhen you ada velvety texbeans, use lebacon or sauVary garburesnap peas, gsummer, addand baby vebles and driebe added to

Chabrot isbure. Whenadds some rand sips theenough stoc(Serves 8-12)

Double Duty Entrée

SHREDDED PORK ã|à{ PAPPARDELLEThis is takeX2 for the Succulent Braised Pork and more of a throw-together than an actualrecipe, as your portions will vary. But here’s the basic idea:

Shred leftover pork, then heat in leftover sauce. Sauté mushrooms in butter and oil (workin batches for optimum browning)then add chopped kale and cook until wilted. Drizzle in a little water to help steam thekale. Boil pappardelle noodles until al dente, then drain well but reserve some of the pastacooking water. Toss all together and thin sauce with some of the reserved pasta water, ifnecessary.

Dinner Party Dessert

CHEVRE CHEESECAKE POTSThis is a cross between a crustless cheesecake and butterscotch pots du crème. The chevreis very mild here but does add tang. Be sure to serve with biscuits in place of the missingcrust for dunking and top it all off with the sweet-tart Cranberry-Blackberry Compote (seebelow). For easy mixing bring cheeses to room temperature before using. Serves 6

• Salt Spring Island natural chevre, 140-g package• Island Farm cream cheese, 1/2 cup• Island Farm sour cream or full-fat plain yogurt, 1/2 cup• Dark brown sugar, 1/2 cup, lightly packed• Egg yolks, 2• Whole eggs, 1• Vanilla extract, 1 tsp• 6 to 12 amoretti or polenta cookies or gingersnaps (optional)

Using an electric mixer, beat cheeses until smooth. Beat in sour cream, then sugar untilevenly mixed, occasionally scraping down side of bowl. Beat in egg yolks until mixed, thenwhole egg. Mix in vanilla. Batter will be runny. Pour into 6 ramekins, filling 3/4 full. Placeramekins in a roasting pan and pour in boiling water until it reaches half way up sides oframekins. Bake in preheated 300F oven until edges are firm but centres should be slightlyjiggly, about 30 min. Remove from oven and let cool (still in water bath). If making ahead,cover and refrigerate overnight. Bring to room temperature before serving and spoon Cran-berry-Blackberry Compote overtop.

Cranberry-Blackberry CompoteThis doubles as a topper for Chevre Cheesecake Pots and makes a base for a fancy partycocktail too. A generous splash of Cowichan Blackberry Dessert Wine adds sweetness tootherwise tart cranberry compote. If you’re feeling flush, serve the remaining dessert winewith the Cheesecake Pots or save it for the cocktails. Makes 3 cups.

• Fresh or frozen whole cranberries, 3 cups• Dark brown sugar, 1 cup• Babe’s honey, 1/2 cup• Cowichan Blackberry Dessert Wine, 1/4 cup

In a large saucepan, stir cranberries with brown sugar, honey and 1/2 cup water. Bring toa boil, stirring often. Reduce heat, and simmer, uncovered and stirring often, until most ofthe berries pop and foam settles. This will take about 5 to 10 min. Remove from heat andstir in dessert wine. Sauce will thicken slightly as it cools. If making ahead, cover and re-frigerate up to 5 days or freeze leftovers up to 3 months.

Double Duty Cocktail

BLACKBERRY-CRANBERRY FIZZDollop a spoonful of Cranberry-Blackberry Sauce into martini glasses or champagne flutes.Add either soda water (well chilled) for a non-alcoholic cocktail or sparkling wine and agood drizzle of Cowichan Blackberry Dessert Wine – that is if there is any left! Once thebottle of dessert wine has been opened, it will keep well in the refrigerator for 5 to 7 days.Finish cocktails with a wide strip of orange peel, if you wish.

1034 Fort Street | 250·380·7654 | www.epicureanpantry.ca

specialty foods

gift boxes, sugar plums and more!

ethnic · artisan · local · organic · fair trade ·

GET

GA

• 4 oz. panccubes (or 1cut into½"• 1 mediumchopped• 4 garlic c• 4 precook(or thighs)• 3½ litersstock• 1½–2 lb. scabbage, c• 3 carrots,• 3 stalks c• 2 baby tu

ocean

Dallas Rd

park


From Our Family to Your FamilyAll the Best this Holiday Season

2577 Cadboro Bay Road,VICTORIA

592-0823

Where

experience

makes the

difference

THIS M

Garbure is a traditional, slow-cooked soup made withseasonal vegetables. It was the daily fare of the Gasconypeasants of southwestern France, who cooked it in a largecast iron pot hung over an open fire, adding more veg-etables to the thick concoction every day. Salt pork andpreserved goose were also customary ingredients. An an-nual festival in Anglet, France, put on by the Confrèrie dela Garbure (Brotherhood of Vegetable Soup) honours gar-bure, and the dish is served in many restaurants in south-west France.

This hearty, rustic dish can be adapted to suit your tasteand pocketbook. If you can afford it, stir in some foie graswhen you add the duck confit meat; this will give the soupa velvety texture. To economize, use more veggies andbeans, use less expensive cuts of meat (ham shank, pork,bacon or sausage) or make the soup strictly vegetarian.Vary garbure with the seasons: use fresh herbs, beanssnap peas, green peas, kohlrabi and ripe tomatoes insummer, add fresh fava beans, nettles, dandelion greensand baby veggies in spring, and emphasize root vegeta-bles and dried beans in winter. Beets and celeriac couldbe added to the following recipe this season.

Chabrot is an intoxicating custom associated with gar-bure. When all the solids have been eaten, each dineradds some red wine to the broth remaining in their bowland sips the liquid from the bowl. Make sure to useenough stock so each diner can sip after they sup.(Serves 8-12)


han an actual

and oil (work

lp steam thee of the pastaasta water, if

e. The chevref the missing

Compote (seerves 6

n sugar untill mixed, then/4 full. Placey up sides ofld be slightlyaking ahead,

d spoon Cran-

a fancy partysweetness todessert wine

ater. Bring tountil most of

rom heat andcover and re-

pagne flutes.g wine and aeft! Once ther 5 to 7 days.

GET FRESH —COOKING WITH THE SEASONS — by Sylvia Weinstock

GARBURE

• 4 oz. pancetta, cut into½"cubes (or 1/4 pound of bacon,cut into½" pieces)• 1 medium onion, finelychopped• 4 garlic cloves, minced• 4 precooked confit duck legs(or thighs)• 3½ liters unsalted chickenstock• 1½–2 lb. savoy or Napacabbage, cored and chopped• 3 carrots, sliced into coins• 3 stalks celery, diced• 2 baby turnips, chopped

• 2 leeks, outer leaves removed,white part only, chopped•½ lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, cutinto 1" cubes• a small bunch of green beans,chopped• 1½ cups dried cannelloni, navyor kidney beans, soaked inwater overnight and drained• A bouquet garni of thyme,rosemary, sage, bay leaf,parsley stems and leeks• Salt and pepper to taste• 1/4 cup chopped parsley

specialty spiritswines from BC & around the globe

craft beers expert advice

ocean

great new

store

Oxford St.

10am to 9pm everyday230 Cook St. VillageCook St.

Dallas Rd.

park

Baby turnips have a mild, sweet flavour anddon’t need to be peeled. Choose small turnipsthat are heavy for their size (lighter, older turnipshave a woody texture).

Cabbage is nutritious, healing and versatile. Trycabbage rolls, made with ground beef, rice,onions, brown sugar, tomato paste and raisins,or bigos, a layered casserole made with cabbage,bacon, veal, pork, lamb, beef, sausages, onionsand apples, slow-cooked in stock.

Dried beans are lower in sodium than cannedbeans and have a firmer texture, but they requireovernight soaking. A pantry stocked with a vari-ety of canned beans provides convenient, instantinspiration for stews, chiles and dips.

Leeks have a mild, sweet, nutty flavour. They aredelicious sautéed or braised or made intocreamy vichyssoise, a cold potato-leek soup.

Celeriac, a.k.a. celery root, can be cooked likesmashed potatoes, or used in casseroles. TryCrema de Cepa de Apio, a creamy Creole celeryroot soup served on cool Caribbean winternights.

Place several sprigs of thyme, rosemary, sage, a bay leaf and several parsley stems inside a 3”-long piece of leek and tie the bouquet garni with kitchen string. Heat a large heavy soup pot orDutch oven over medium heat. Add pancetta (or bacon) and cook, stirring, until golden brown.Remove pancetta (or bacon) and set aside. Leave the fat in the soup pot. Reduce heat to medium,and add chopped onions and garlic, cooking and stirring them in the pancetta (or bacon fat) untilsoft. Remove the skin from the confit duck legs and shred the meat. Discard the bones. Add duckto the onion/ garlic mixture and combine. Add chicken stock, cabbage, carrots, celery, turnips, leeks,potatoes, soaked beans, green beans and the bouquet garni. Bring the soup to a simmer, then cookit, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes or until the vegetables and beans are tender.

Stir the reserved pancetta (or bacon) into the soup. Remove the bouquet garni, season to taste,sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately. Serve with garlic bread. Serves 8-12.

THIS MONTH’S SHOPPING BASKET RECIPE


TraceyKusiew

icz

AMICHE ISABOULE ISAPAINDECAMPAGNEFOOD MATTERS — by Julie Pegg

French country breads are on the rise.

Sandwiched between the Long Horn Saloon and Slough Food in crook-in-the-road Edi-son, Washington, is the artisan bakery Breadfarm. Husband-and-wife team Scott Man-gold and Renee Bourgault bake stunning country breads, but my favourite is thestone-ground miche, which has developed somewhat of a cult following in the area. Ipop in en route to a Whidbey Island campground and have to scurry because the bak-ery will undoubtedly be down to its last loaf by noon. Weighing in at a hefty two kilo-

grams, miche is sold by the quarter, half and whole. This substantial but basic sourdough willendure throughout my three-day trip tucked away in its paper bag. Sliced thick, thin or simplyripped apart, it is my perfect camping companion. I need little more to while away a lingering sun-set or a blazing campfire than a stack of unread New Yorkers and local cheese, charcuterie andwine from Slough Food.

The term miche was and is slang for a woman’s backside or, I am told, her breasts, due to thebread’s voluptuousness. A French colleague muses, too, that while most of France simply refersto any round loaf as “boule,” the term “miche” was coined in the north. It makes sense. In 1932,Normandy boulanger Pierre Poilâne fashioned France’s now flagship miche (www.poilane.fr) athis Parisian bakery and scored it with a sweeping “P” on its crispy crust. Seventy-seven yearslater, there is still a Poilâne bakery at 8 rue du Cherche-Midi in Paris. (A second location is at Boule-vard de Grenelle, and in 2000 a third shop in London’s posh Westminster was launched.)

The gorgeous two-kilogram hunk of wholegrain has an earthy, nutty and open crumb. UrbanFare flies in Poilâne at a price as big as the bread. Breadfarm’s miche comes darn close to theParisian benchmark. Not only am I transported back to Paris, I’m biting into a slice of Gallic history.

This type of pain de campagne dates back to when French peasant women milled whole mealand turned out giant round loaves made of the coarse flour, water, salt and natural leavening. Thewomen fired the boules (balls), often weighing four to eight kilos, into the hearth’s embers orhauled them to the town’s huge communal wood oven where the local boulanger would bake sev-eral at a go. The lifeblood of farming families, chunks of miche were dunked into humble potages.Workers took to their fields with the hearty bread, sausage, cheese—and wine in tow.

Sadly, I find true miche hard to come by at home. Why, I wonder? I pose the question to authorPeter Reinhart (The Breadbaker’s Apprentice, Ten Speed Press). “Four and a half pounds of Frenchrustic bread is a lot of wheat for the average western family,” the bread guru tells me in a briefphone chat. “When it comes to rustic breads, white flour Italian breads, baguettes excepted—arethe norm—smaller, easier to approach, easier to slice. “You know, ciabatta really is just watered-down miche,” adds Reinhart, whose Apprentice boasts a picture of a Poilâne-style miche on itscover. “But,” he concludes, “with whole grains and fibre high on the health list, wholesome breadsare on the rise.” It seems so. In September, Terra Breads’ head baker, Mary Mackay, led a sold-outsourdough baking class at Barbara-Jo’s Books to Cooks featuring Yoke Mardewi’s book Wild Sour-dough: The Natural Way to Bake, New Holland Publishing. Chris Brown (of Vancouver’s ArtisanRise Bakery), a baker par excellence of Italian-style breads, agrees that it just may be time for aFrench Renaissance. Rose Concepcion of MIX Bakery has come up with a farmer’s loaf, oblong, in-stead of round, that slices evenly and is “kinder to the gums.” “Customers enjoy hearty breads butfind authentic miche “too chewy,” she says. Still, Concepcion fashions several kinds of boules.Most popular is Zoe’s super grain—full of grainy goodness but easy on the bite.

Not an ounce of French blood courses through the veins of Transilvania Peasant Bakery’s FloranMoldovan. However, his signature peasant bread (he makes just three—whole-wheat sourdough,sprouted wheat and a light rye—in his wood-fired brick “igloo”) is the closest to Breadfarm micheI’ve come across in Vancouver. Dense yet springy, his sourdough whole-wheat resembles a fatbaguette. “I would prefer to bake round peasant bread, but folks prefer uniform slices.” The na-tive Romanian shrugs. “I go with the flow. Besides,” he says with a laugh, “I can fit more loavesin the oven.” Boules, baked on request, make an excellent gift. Moldovan was firing up an eight-pounder for a wedding present on my visit.

For Okanagan Grocery’s Monica the Baker, her organic “campagne” is all about natural starters.She gets down with five-year “Naomi,” an organic white flour starter, and “Arnold” a rye fermentwhose origins reach back a hundred years (it’s common among bakers to give their startersnames). Her passion for bread is palpable, and she kindly couriers one cup of each starter with in-structions for maintaining its bubbly health so that I may replicate her most sought-after loaf. Myattempts are edible—barely. They lack that important fifth element—mastery. I have yet to getthe “feel” of my bread. They are sour, heavy and flat.

Renowned Victoria breadmaker Cliff Leir of Fol Epi bakery tells me his early efforts were muchthe same (this makes me feel better). Like Monica, he’s big on keeping up a lively starter. From thesilo behind the bakery, he handmills Saskatchewan’s Red Fife and wood-fires up, by all accounts,

a wonderfuland Renee aWildfire burn

As for my oburble and bresults needFast, a bread

Cliff Leir

Transilv

Erika Heyrman of Wild Fire Bakery with her miche

RebeccaWellm

am

RebeccaWellm

am

TraceyKusiew

icz

TraceyKusiew

icz

E


e.

the-road Edi-m Scott Man-ourite is thein the area. Iuse the bak-

efty two kilo-urdough willhin or simplyngering sun-

arcuterie and

s, due to thesimply refersnse. In 1932,poilane.fr) at-seven yearsn is at Boule-hed.)rumb. Urbanclose to the

Gallic history.d whole mealavening. The’s embers or

uld bake sev-ble potages.w.on to author

nds of Frenchme in a brief

xcepted—areust watered-miche on itssome breadsed a sold-outok Wild Sour-ver’s Artisanbe time for af, oblong, in-ty breads butds of boules.

kery’s Florant sourdough,dfarm micheembles a fatces.” The na-more loavesup an eight-

ural starters.a rye fermentheir startersarter with in-after loaf. Myve yet to get

s were muchter. From theall accounts,

a wonderful bit of dough, which sounds to me like pretty authentic miche. (Breadfarm’s Scottand Renee are huge admirers of Leir and his former partner Erika Heyrman, who still keepsWildfire burning with very fine bread.)

As for my own efforts, I’m not about to give up. Feeding and watching Naomi and Arnoldburble and bubble was exciting, the thwack of bread bashed on the counter therapeutic. Theresults needed, well, more kneading. With the aid of Reinhart’s new book Artisan BreadsFast, a bread-baking class with Chris Brown at Barbara-Jo’s Books to Cooks, Transilvania’s

organic whole-wheat flour, Monica’s starter, Leir’s wonderful tips, and Scott and Renee’s in-spiration, I’ll return to the task. I may even try my hand at baking a miche in campfire embers.

TIP: Miche and other pains de campagne can be frozen (best unsliced) then thawed, or re-freshed in the oven after a few days. Simply spray the crust with water and place in a 350-425°F oven for a few minutes.

Bakery Locations:

BreadfarmEdison, Washington (just off Chuck-anut Drive, south of Bellingham)360-766-4065www.breadfarm.com

VictoriaFol Epi101–398 Harbour Rd., (DocksideGreen)250-477-8882

Wildfire1517 Quadra St., 250-381-3473

OkanaganMonica the BakerOkanagan Grocery2355 Gordon Dr. (Guisachan Vil-lage), KelownaBakery: 250-826-2811www.okanagangrocery.com

VancouverRise Artisan Bakery, 604-731-0739(phone orders only)Trout Lake Market in seasonNote: Chris Brown’s baking class isNovember 28. Go to www.booksto-cooks to see if space is still avail-able.

Transilvania Bakery3474 West Broadway, 604-319-5623

MIX Bakery4430 West 10th (Point Grey),604-221-4145www.mixthebakery.com

Cliff Leir of Fol Epi

Transilvania Bakery’s Floran Moldovan

MIX Bakery’s Super Grain

RebeccaWellm

am

For dinner out, a family gathering, home parties or kicking back at the cabin, Tinhorn Creek has the wines for the occasion. � Our vineyards are located on two unique and diverse south Okanagan sites: the Golden Mile and the Black Sage bench. Our ability to blend the grapes from these vineyards and capture the best characteristics of each site sets us apart. � Visit our spectacular estate winery in Oliver, BC and experience for yourself.

NATURALLY SOUTH OKANAGANwww.tinhorn.com

DRESSED UP &READY TO GO!


What’shappening inVANCOUVER?November begins in fine style whenManuel Ferreira teams withup with Sandra Oldfield of Tinhorn Creek Winery to presenta multi course dinner to complement the exceptional Oldfield’sSeries – the 2006 Merlot, the 2006 Syrah and the 20082Bench, as well as other special Tinhorn Creek wines. The din-ner takes place November 6th, at Le Gavroche in Vancouver.$95.00 p.p. Please call 604-685-3924 to reserve your table

Wish to earn a wine diploma? The fall/winter schedule forWSET (accredited wine courses) in Vancouver has been postedon line. For course info and registration log on to www.finevin-tageltd.com

Whistler is all set for Cornucopia, the mountain’s famous fallwine and food extravaganza November 12-15. There is a widearray of events, from free seminars to wine pairing dinners andthemed tastings—and it’s a great way to party. Info and ticketsfor Whistler’s Celebration of Wine and Food are available atwhistlercornucopia.com

The Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival,which runs April 19th to 25th, 2010. Food and wine events willcelebrate the wines Argentina and New Zealand. Better brushup on your tango!

Immediately following the wine festival is Dine Out Vancouver2010--April 26 to May 6, 2010 (instead of its usual Januaryrun). Welcome back to those hard-lost post holiday pounds!

Ingredient of the Month

Bosa’s has two new cheeses in the dairy case under their ownItalissima brand. One resembles a softer, spreadable, boc-concini—great on grilled ciabatta with slices of freshtomato/and or fresh herbs. The other puts me in mind of Span-ish queso fresco (fresh cheese) or blanco--ideal for putting inoozy dishes like quesadillas, chille rellenos—or adding tolasagna, or for stuffing in manicotti or lumachi (large shellpasta). These bland cheeses are marvellous vehicles for carry-ing other flavours. Use in place of regular mozzarella or Mon-terey Jack. —by Julie Pegg

WhatA sizeable crJuly 26th. Che250.338.649for a descriptiorich part of thefeasted on Cochicken, and bcase for local[861 Shamroc[Greaves CreVineyard [65to tears: “It’s a– Bring it on CIn the mean

Campbell RiveIsland HighwaThey’ve renamto come in forway to the Anwww.dolphinspackages.” InStreet in Comothe bakery geguests....hmmmtender Freddybistro.ca] realthat I get – moter). In CourteCulinary Stunary / www.trpicked a few bWay Farm), aMexican Resvamped recenCheese Stuffeplates” with atime of year, coOrbitz Pizzaing things in NBouchard andmost recently[492 Fitzgeraing on a longpatio/blenderthe Valley’s frcille Doucet awww.lapausebnew co-owner[1760 Riversidwine events, aStreet, Courtesome of the mby which I judsuggested hotare: Drunken Pways ask for29th Street, CChicken Vindwww.greatescon your new f—by Hans P

TraceyKusiew

icz

FISH&CHIPS Where else to eat them but off the wharfin a charming fishing village?

When the world is too much with me, and I need a vacation buthave only a few hours to spare, I am lured to the quaint fishing vil-lage of Steveston. True, condos now stand where the fishermenused to mend their nets. And the dockside attracts a steady flowof tourists. But I still love this historic hamlet for its thrift stores,chandlery/hardware (I found ship’s galley hooks perfect for mycondo kitchen), tiny boutiques and the Net Shed for an egg- and-spud breakfast. The fishing boats bob on the Fraser River, and Istroll the dock to see what fish is fresh that day. Friday to Sundayis when the boats are best, but there’s nearly always freshprawns. And now in its second year, the bustling Sunday Farmers’and Artisans’ Market is held in Fisherman’s Park (3rd and Monc-ton).

But what’s a trip to Steveston without fish and chips? Dave’s(3460 Moncton; 604-271-7555), the Steveston original, dishesup more-than-passable fish and chips in the tiny nautical-themeddining room or from the take-away kiosk. Batter avoiders canorder their fish grilled or pan-fried. For suds lovers, there’s draftbeer to go. Blue Canoe (3866 Bayview St. on the wharf; 604-275-7811), garners kudos for a just-right combo of view, booze andall-round seafood dining. The menu stretches beyond tasty fishand chips to include mussels in Thai broth, clams, crab and avo-cado sandwiches and other seafood treats. The 100-seat patio isalways packed on sunny afternoons and a fine place to whileaway an hour or two.

Shady Island also draws a crowd to its wood patio and take-away window (112-3800 Bayview St. on the wharf, 604-275-6587). My go-to, though, is PaJo’s on the Wharf (604-272-1588)a genuine fish-and-chippery. Paper cones overflow with gener-ous portions of thick, firm-fleshed halibut, pearl-white cod (myfave) or coral-hued salmon, crunchy battered (lightly on request)

in fresh oil. Piping hot chips have wonderfully mealy centres. My husband hunkers down with a small order and an extraside of fish (one-and-half pieces) under an umbrella at one of the wood Muskoka chairs equipped with a round holderfor the cone. Pass on the deli-style coleslaw in favour of mushy peas—or order a side of those too. Kiddies have their ownspecial menu. If a beer is calling you—sorry. Settle for pop, juice, coffee or tea. Judging from the permanent line-ups, noone seems to care a whit. There’s another PaJo’s in nearby Garry Point Park.

Hours according to weather and season.

The Quest:

Richmond’s best fish fry? EAT’s Vancouvereditor loves ‘em at Pajo’s on the Wharf


2 5 0 - 3 3 8 - 1 3 2 3 1 - 8 0 0 - 6 6 3 - 7 9 2 9 k i n g f i s h e r s p a . c o mk i n g f i s h e r s p a . c o m

The perfect venue foryour Holiday Party

Gourmet Oceanside Diningwith one of the best views

in the Pacific Northwest

E

What’shappening in COMOXVALLEY?A sizeable crew got a preview of how pleasurable it is to enjoy the harvest and “eat local” onJuly 26th. Chef Ronald St. Pierre and the crew at Locals restaurant [364-8th Street, Courtenay250.338.6493, www.localscomoxvalley.com] hosted a Table Champêtre (check the Locals blogfor a description of what this is and why Chef Ronald wants to make this a regular thing in this food-rich part of the Island) at Tannadice Farms [3465 Burns Road,www.tannadicefarms.com]. Wefeasted on Cortez Island oysters, Little Qualicum scallops, Black Creek vegis, Courtenay pork,chicken, and beef, (to name a few of the many local producers featured – it was a great show-case for local food product) and toasted it all with libations from Surgenor Brewing Company[861 Shamrock Place, Comox 250.339.9947 www.surgenorbrewing.ca], Bluemoon Winery[Greaves Crescent, Courtenay 250-338-9765 www.bluemoonwinery.ca], and Averill CreekVineyard [6552 North Rd, Duncan 250-709-9986 www.averillcreek.ca]. A friend was movedto tears: “It’s all so beautiful and delicious!” I’m looking forward to what this team does in 2010– Bring it on Chef Ronald!In the meantime, fall is a great time to be eating pretty much anywhere in the Comox Valley -

Campbell River region. In Willow Point, former manager at The Tasting Room [#4 - 2253 SouthIsland Highway] Michelle Mustvedt just bought the business with her husband Jonathan Adamo.They’ve renamed it Jonny’s Bar & Lounge and are creating a “lounge type feel,” inviting folksto come in for drinks, sushi rolls, and appetizers. It’s a beautiful space – I’ll be stopping in on myway to the Angler's Dining Room at Dolphins Resort [4125 Discovery Drive 1-800-891-0287 /www.dolphinsresort.com] where new executive Chef, Steve Lopez is hosting fall “specialty diningpackages.” In Comox, Carol Spencer of Wild Flour Organic Artisan Bakery [221A ChurchStreet in Comox [250-890-0017, www.wildflourorganicbakery.com] is helping the new owners ofthe bakery get into the swing of things. She’s also organized some fall cooking classes a mysteryguests....hmmm... Down the road, the kitchen has been delivering consistently great food, and bar-tender Freddy confirmed that Avenue Bistro [2064 Comox Ave, 250-890-9200 www.avenue-bistro.ca] really is THE PLACE I want to practice my new-found b-tending skills. (I also think it’s coolthat I get – more or less – regular postings about “fresh sheet” times from @avenuebistro on twit-ter). In Courtenay, Kathy Jerritt is seeing great success with her first “full moon dinners” at TriaCulinary Studio [located at Natures Way Farm 4905 Darcy Road 250-338-9765 @triaculi-nary / www.triaculinarystudio.ca]. Full disclosure: I do some work for these folks, and my son haspicked a few blueberries for the farm – and I think that the trio of Kathy, Marla Limousin (NaturesWay Farm), and George Ehrler (BluemoonWinery) are doing amazing things. Heather at Tita’sMexican Restaurant [536-6th Street, Courtenay 250.334.8033] tells me the menu’s been re-vamped recently, retaining lots of old faves, and introducing new items like local Halibut Tacos andCheese Stuffed Plantain Slices in Mole sauce, for example. Most items are now served as “smallplates” with a broad selection of side dishes to choose from for big appetites. As always at thistime of year, copious amounts of fruit from the patio garden inspire ever-changing margaritas. I missOrbitz Pizza (it got burned out – literally – and owner/chef Marty Campbell is doing interest-ing things in Nanaimo with good food and ...bowling?), so I’m very happy to hear that ShelleyBouchard and husband, “Mad Chef” Kevin Munroe (formerly of the Kingfisher, Atlas Cafe, andmost recently the Pier Pub & Bistro), are opening theMad Chef Cafe at the old Orbitz location[492 Fitzgerald Avenue]. Their slogan: "...insane food...with attitude..." Chef Steve Dodd is count-ing on a long September summer as he invites all and sundry to check out the first-come-first-servepatio/blender combos at Bisque [14th and Cliffe Ave. 250-334-8564). Nightly specials highlightthe Valley’s freshest products, tastes, and spirits. The pitch to "gourmands" by David Innes & Lu-cille Doucet at La Pause Bed & Breakfast [540 Salsbury Road, Courtenay 1-866-703-4725www.lapausebb.com] piques my interest in being a tourist in my own town. With the help of thenew co-owners Chef Drew Noble is creating a bit of a stir at the “new” Old House Restaurant[1760 Riverside Lane, Courtenay 250.338.5406] . Menu homages to the glory years, specialwine events, and cooking classes – I’m looking forward to a real taste test. Atlas Café [250-6thStreet, Courtenay 250.338.9838] has just revamped its website, with a “people page” featuringsome of the many wonderful characters (staff and customers) who make this place the standardby which I judge other eateries. Over the summer, when it got really, really hot, one local foodiesuggested hot (spicy) food as answer. Allyson Hamilton told me (@hammygirl) that her local favesare: Drunken Prawn at Kinaree Thai Cuisine [526A Cumberland Road, 250-898-8639] (she al-ways ask for "really hot"); the “wonderful spicy” Thai soups at Pho Maple Noodle [11-46829th Street, Courtenay 250-338-8868; and although she hasn’t “met a dish [she] didn't like,” theChicken Vindaloo is her current choice at The Great Escape [2744 Dunsmuir Street,www.greatescape-cumberland.com, 250-336-8831]. Thanks Allyson. You can keep me up to dateon your new food finds with a tweet to @hanspetermeyer or @eatmagazine—by Hans Peter Meyer.

906 McClure Street, Victoria BC · 1-800-561-6565 · www.abigailshotel.com

This boutique style B&B is located just steps from downtown Victoria’s famousattractions, museums, theatres, fine restaurants, and parks. Includes gourmet breakfasts

personally presented by the Executive Chef, plus evening hors d’oeuvres & parking.Annual Christmas Baking Class with Chef Victoria on Dec 12, 2009. Book Now!

Escape to Abigail’s Hotel this season and experience our Chef’s creations!

Call to Receive 25% Off Rates(Nov or Dec)

906 McClure Street, Victor

This boutique style B&B isatta tractions, museums, theatta res,

personally presented by the ExAnnual Christmas Baking Class with

Escape to Abigail’s Hotelw

ria BC · 1-800-561-6565 · www.

locatta ed just steps frrf om downtowufiif ne rest uua rants, anna d parra ks. Includ

x secutive Chef,,f plus evening horlass with 12, 2009. Book Now!Chef Victoria on Dec 12, 2009. Book Now!

urthis season and experience our Chef’s creations!n

.abigailshotel.com

Victoria’s faaf mousdes gourmmr et breakfaaf stsd’oeuvres & parra king.

2, 2009. Book Now!

r Chef’s creations!

Call to Receive 25% Off Rates(Nov or Dec)

wharf

vacation butint fishing vil-he fishermena steady flowthrift stores,

erfect for myan egg- and-r River, and Iay to Sundayalways freshday Farmers’

rd and Monc-

hips? Dave’sginal, dishes

utical-themedavoiders canthere’s draft

arf; 604-275-w, booze andond tasty fishcrab and avo--seat patio islace to while

tio and take-rf, 604-275-04-272-1588)w with gener-

hite cod (myy on request)and an extra

round holderave their ownt line-ups, no

“Flying Fish has ran multiple ads inEat magazine this year and we werethrilled after the first issue when Iwas contacted and told our adshould have our address so peoplecould put it in their GPS. Flying Fishis known for it’s great jewellery,eclectic furniture and cool gifts. Wewanted to let more people knowthat we have a large kitchendepartment bigger than many standalone kitchen stores and decided toadvertise in Eat to get the word out.The magazine has put us on the

map for food lovers like ourselves, with people coming from all over the island and also fromthe lower mainland to see what we have to offer.”

“With McLean's Speciality Foods, Mon Petit Choux Bakery, Fresh Fish on the Dock, and thenew Red Room Market - as well as the amazing independent restaurants that surround us,downtown Nanaimo is a food lovers destination.”

“Thank you Eat Magazine and all of our fabulous customers!”—Glen Saunders, owner of Flying Fish, 180 Commercial Street, Nanaimo.


What’shappening in NANAIMO?

6560 Metral Drive, [email protected]/carrotontherun

6560 Metral Drive, [email protected]/carrotontherun

Nanaimo’s Best Gourmet Deli…Nanaimo’s Best Gourmet Deli…

The Urban Beet Food Co. is a Coffee House

/ Bistro / Deli and Fine Food Store all under

one roof offering whole foods to inspire and

nourish. Ourmenu of delicious food, freshly

baked goods and great coffee is perfect for

both eating in and taking out.

Come visit us at 6595 Applecross Road, Nanaimo (right behind Costco) 250.390.9722Mon. toFri. 7amto6pm, Sat8amto5pm, Sun8amto3pm. w

Ah, the festive season. All 60 days and counting. Once I see my first Canadian Tire TV Christmas com-mercial, at Halloween, my thoughts turn to turkeys, parties, celebrating, food & drink and shovellingsnow (you do remember December 2008 right?) Many times I am asked by friends for my top choicesfor celebratory dining spots in my EAT Buzz Nanaimo coverage area. So, herein, are my picks forthe best restaurants from Cowichan Valley to Qualicum Beach and the Southern Gulf Islands. Whatconstitutes inclusion on my list? Consistency, menu innovation, local, seasonal and organic, a well-crafted wine list, knowledgeable well-trained staff and people at the helm who truly care about theircraft.

Wesley Street Restaurant in the Old City Quarter of Nanaimo [#1-321Wesley Street, Nanaimo,Tel: 250-753-6057] is always on the list and has earned the creds. Chef Josh Massey leans to amenu of West Coast flavours executed with contemporary punch, panache and imaginative splash.Great wine knowledge may be had via owner and gracious raconteur Gaetan Brousseau, who is agreat part of the experience of the place. His wife, Linda Allen, now runs their other successful tresyummy enterprise,Mon Petit Choux Bakery [101-120 Commercial Street, Nanaimo, Tel: 250-753-6002].

The Masthead Restaurant in Cowichan Bay [1705 Cowichan Bay Road, Cowichan Bay, Tel:250-748-3714] sits in a heritage building, on the waterfront, in the quaint seaside village of CowBay. Masthead owner Luke Harms and wife Denise Morrison and Chef Matt Horn are a formidableteam of pros who bring creative thinking and deft execution to everything they do. This place consis-tently delivers and the stars align.

Hastings Country House, Salt Spring Island [160 Upper Ganges Road, Salt Spring Island, Tel:250-537-2362]. Chef Marcel Kauer does the “regionally-inspired” culinary ballet beautifully. His clas-sic European training brings continental elegance to the plate and palate, and the remarkable winelist will take your breath away, not to mention what it will do to your credit card. This is truly five-stardining and everything about the experience is world-class.

Bistro 161 in Duncan [161 Kenneth Street, Duncan, Tel: 250.746.6466] is a menu of multiculturalsurprises that will wow at every swirl of the spoon or fork. Fresh, innovative and elegantly simple,owner/Chef Fatima Da Silva and Chef Chris Szilagyi know their stuff and tango a clever foodie duetin the kitchen. Everybody wins. Their food will always impress, while breaking some rules along theway. Bless the innovators for they shall inherit our praise.

The Mahle House Restaurant in Cedar [2104 Hemer Road, Nanaimo (Cedar), Tel: 250-722-3621] is a charming, pinkish, heritage house plunked into the countryside outside of Nanaimo. Muchof what appears on your plate was either hauled in from the gardens outback or sourced from thefarmer around the bend. There is a beguiling old-world ambience to the room with clever, sometimecurious, always exceptional local offering from Executive Chef Maureen Loucks and owner DelbertHorrocks. Front of house, wine and hospitality come via Tara & StephenWilson, family members andfuture owners in training.I do have a few other notables that I cannot overlook.Giovanni’s in Qualicum Beach [4-180 Sec-

ond Avenue West, Qualicum Beach, Tel: 250-752-6693] is a “white table cloth” top-nosh spot in theregion. They know their pastas and will never disappoint on that score. Service is efficient and en-gaging and the atmosphere oozes.And for the pure romance of a Greek Island you cannot do better than Asteras Greek Taverna

[347Wesley Street, Nanaimo, Tel: 250-716-0451] in the Old City Quarter. This place, pure and sim-ple, does an exceptional job at doing what they do best – making you very happy with a plate fullof great Greek food, good service and a big glass of Greek brandy…on the house. Well, for me any-way. Flirt and see what happens.

To wrap it upyour sanity whcasions CateMetral Drive, TTel: 250-390-9

One last thintie & tiara galathe night awaydrive. Tickets a—by Su Grimm

NANAIMO LOVES EAT

ultiple ads inand we weressue when Itold our adss so peopleS. Flying Fishat jewellery,ool gifts. Weeople knowrge kitchenn many standd decided tohe word out.t us on thend also from

Dock, and thesurround us,


CONTACT US TODAY FOR YOUR

VISITOR’S GUIDE

1 800 663 7337www.secretnanaimo.com

NANAIMO

Spend some time in Nanaimo, the harbour

city. Enjoy the relaxed atmosphere that fuels

the imagination and fi res the spirit. Take in our

vibrant cultural scene, amazing culinary options,

and fabulous shopping. Satisfy your thirst for

adrenaline at our outdoor adventure centre, or

catch your breath along our harbourfront walkway.

Whether you visit for a few hours or a weekend,

you’ll get a taste of the secret to Island life in Nanaimo.

“DISCOVER THE SECRET TO ISLAND LIFE”

MO?

The Urban Beet Food Co. is a Coffee House

/ Bistro / Deli and Fine Food Store all under

one roof offering whole foods to inspire and

nourish. Ourmenu of delicious food, freshly

baked goods and great coffee is perfect for

both eating in and taking out.

Come visit us at 6595 Applecross Road, Nanaimo (right behind Costco) 250.390.9722Mon. toFri. 7amto6pm, Sat8amto5pm, Sun8amto3pm. www.Urbanbeet.ca

Christmas com-and shovellingmy top choicesre my picks forIslands. Whatrganic, a well-are about their

eet, Nanaimo,sey leans to ainative splash.seau, who is asuccessful tresTel: 250-753-

chan Bay, Tel:village of Cowe a formidables place consis-

ing Island, Tel:tifully. His clas-markable wines truly five-star

of multiculturalegantly simple,ver foodie duetules along the

Tel: 250-722-anaimo. Muchurced from theever, sometimeowner Delberty members and

ch [4-180 Sec-osh spot in theficient and en-

reek Taverna, pure and sim-with a plate fullell, for me any-

To wrap it up and put a bow on it, Christmas is always a season for calling the catering pros to saveyour sanity while wowing throngs of guests. The top three in Nanaimo, IMHO, are Occasional Oc-casions Catering, 7777 Dickinson Rd, Lantzville Tel: 250-390-2588; 24 Carrot Catering, 6560Metral Drive, Tel: 250-390-0008 and The Urban Beet Food Co., 6595 Applecross Road, Nanaimo,Tel: 250-390-9722.

One last thing, Vancouver Island University is putting on a show-stopper of an over-the-top blacktie & tiara gala dinner dance on Friday November 20, 2009. Three hundred folks will feast & friskthe night away while raising money for the university during their annual Festival of Trees fundraisingdrive. Tickets are available by calling Renee Bohun, Festival of Trees Coordinator, Tel: 250-740-6258.—by Su Grimmer


Wha

Reservations | 250.592.7424 Tuesday ~ Saturday from 5pm

paprika-bistro.com | 2524 Estevan Ave | Victoria

Proud supporter of local farms, wineries & ocean wise fisheries

Table d'hôte Menu 3 course dinner

Tuesday ~ Saturday 5pm to 6pm

$26

What’shappening in VICTORIA?November kicks off the holiday season, and with it, the season of fundraisers. Lucky for us, we havesome appetizing ways to support local organizations. The first one up is Art of the Cocktail, afundraising event for the Victoria Film Festival, (November 7th and 8th). With tastings and demon-strations from local breweries and wineries, a wide selection of workshops, and dinners to be heldat Vista 18, Aura, Brasserie L’Ecole and Bon Rouge, you may have trouble deciding where togo first. Visit the VFF website (www.victoriafilmfestival.com) to see the complete event schedule.Also November 7th is A Taste of Britain, a black tie fundraising dinner, dance and auction to ben-efit Our Place Society. The event will be held at the Crystal Gardens and will include live musicand a menu prepared by the chefs of the Empress. For tickets, call 250-388-7112 ext. 237 or visitwww.tasteofbritain.ca/tickets. November 10th, Sea Cider is hosting Pouring for Parkinson’s, an an-nual fundraiser for the Victoria Epilepsy and Parkinson’s Centre. (www.seacider.ca).If you have been wanting to compost your kitchen waste but not sure quite how to go about it, a

new option is available to residents of Victoria. Pedal to Petal is a bicycle powered compost pickupprogram that offers weekly or one-time pick-ups. The mandate of these self-described “bicycle lov-ing food security activists” is to take direct action to reduce carbon emissions and landfill wasteand to feed the soil. Call 250-383-5144, ext. 1116 or visit www.pedaltopetal.blogspot.com formore information.An exciting choice of fall and holiday-themed classes is being offered throughout November and

December. Terralicious Cooking School is offering weekly classes with chef Cosmo Meens,(Mo:Lé and Café Bliss) highlighting a different island ingredient each Thursday in November. Theirbusy schedule also includes a cookie exchange (December 5th) and a Christmas Season Enter-taining workshop with chef Heidi Fink (December 7th). With fun holiday classes for kids too, thereis really too much to list, so check out their full event schedule (www. terralicious.ca). You don’t wantto missOttavio’s Christmas Open House and Oak Bay Gallery Walk (December 3rd, 6-8 pm).There will be an olive oil and balsamic vinegar tasting, hot roasted chestnuts, and seasonal deli-cacies on offer.The Superior Café in James Bay has announced a new series called “Straight from the Hip”:

twelve evenings of food films and film noir. The series kicks off with a “Like Water for Chocolate”themed dinner (November 2nd), partnering with guest chef Adrianna Ramirez (Adrianna’s Cocina).Enjoy an evening of Mexican food, tequila pairings, learn all about the history of this cuisine, andcelebrate El Dia de los Muertos, all in one evening! Other food flicks in the series include “Ba-bette’s Feast” (December 16th), “Delicatessen” (January 13th), continuing until May. Visit www.the-superior.ca for full listings.New in town are ‘Gomasala’ spice blends, available at Plenty to make your holidays even more

aromatic, FOO, on the corner of Blashard and Yates, serving Asian Street fare, and Lully’s Sand-wich Bar, on Broughton. Owner Skully White worked at Pescatores and Prime Steakhouse, be-fore realizing his dream of providing the downtown lunch crowd with authentic Montreal smokedmeat ($9) in early October. White roasts his own beef, turkey and chicken in the kitchen at Prime,and has a custom-made steamer for the smoked meat on site at Lully’s, so the guy knows his stuff.For chefs and cooks looking for wild seasonal foods, JagaSilk Teabar is now also the headquartersfor JagaWild, offering salal berries, hawthorn berries, chanterelles, pine mushrooms, second har-vest nettle and more for wholesale or special order. Call 250-721-5242 or visit their website(www.jagasilk.com). —by Rebecca Baugniet

November ain Tofino. TickeOctober 1st aor call 1 800New to Tof

ing, this bar isTofino Tea Baham and Annabout more thwith a tip, youof tea in Chinaand tinctures,treats from SwNeptune Potte250 725 883Remember

Surf (and acroa beautiful paAfter years offiancé Jason SKaeli have coCafé Brio, unda menu of tacnatural fruit slu7 days a weeSpotted Bea

Specializing imenu to yourall Tofitians. OCanadian

guests for theawarded Bestfind in house fr725 3100.

— by Kira R

Hester Creek Estate Winery and VillaWine Shop open daily at 10:00 amRoad #8, just South of Oliver, BCPhone 250 498 4435 www.hestercreek.com

LOVE WHAT WE DOTRULY REMARKABLE


What’shappening in TOFINO ?RIA?or us, we havehe Cocktail, ags and demon-ers to be heldding where tovent schedule.auction to ben-ude live musicxt. 237 or visitnson’s, an an-ca).go about it, aompost pickupd “bicycle lov-landfill wastegspot.com for

November andosmo Meens,ovember. TheirSeason Enter-kids too, thereYou don’t want3rd, 6-8 pm).seasonal deli-

rom the Hip”:or Chocolate”nna’s Cocina).s cuisine, ands include “Ba-Visit www.the-

ays even moreLully’s Sand-akhouse, be-ntreal smokedchen at Prime,nows his stuff.headquarterss, second har-their website

November and December – a time for storm watching, fine dining and relaxing by a warm firein Tofino. Tickets for the 13th Annual Clayoquot Oyster Festival (November 19 – 21) went on saleOctober 1st available at Wildside Booksellers. For more information go to www.oystergala.comor call 1 800 863 4664.New to Tofino is the Tofino Tea Bar, a great little place to go for organic tea, (literally speak-

ing, this bar is 100 square feet!). With organic teas sourced from the Tea Centre (Courtenay, BC),Tofino Tea Bar has more than 40 different kinds of tea, served hot or iced. Owners Cheryl Gra-ham and Anne Klazek, finally decided to showcase their passion for teas after the idea cameabout more than a year ago. If you buy a tea, you can ‘surf’ for free, on their deck out front, andwith a tip, you will get a nice ‘Fun Tea Tip’ from them (mine was ‘There are more than 3000 kindsof tea in China’). For retail you will find Clayoquot Botanicals, a variety of teas, herbal remediesand tinctures, all made locally using plants from the Tofino Botanical Gardens, as well as sweettreats from Sweet T’s Cake and Pastry, handmade art cards by Cheryl, music cd’s by Anne andNeptune Pottery selections (Cortes Island). Open 7 days a week, Tofino’s Tea Bar is worth a stop!250 725 8833.Remember when Sobo’s purple catering bus was located in its original location behind Live to

Surf (and across from Wildside Grill)? Well now you will find a bright orange catering bus, witha beautiful painting of the Virgin Guadalupe, serving fresh Mexican fare, everything under $10.After years of seasonal tree planting, owners with best friend Amy Bockner, Kaeli Robinsong andfiancé Jason Sussman, decided it was time for a change from seasonal bushwhacking. Amy andKaeli have cooked at Hollyhock Retreat (Cortes Island), while Jason did an apprenticeship atCafé Brio, under Chef Chris Dignin. Their passion for fresh west coast inspired Mexican fare bringsa menu of tacos, burritos, gringos, tortilla soup and salads, as well as their delicious ‘Freshies’ –natural fruit slushies (local favourite is the Fresh Lime with Tofino Botanical Garden Mint’). Open7 days a week, Tacofino is open 11am – 8pm daily. 250 725 8228.Spotted Bear Bistro has expanded its services for in house and off site catering (up to 12 guests).

Specializing in small private groups, Chef Vincent Fraissange will design a west coast inspiredmenu to your likings. Don’t forget about Sunday Brunch, and locals night is also on, 20% off forall Tofitians. Open 7 days a week, 250 725 2215.Canadian literary icons Margaret Atwood and Graeme Gibson were welcomed as special

guests for the Annual Writer Inn Program in October. Also, for the third time, the Inn has beenawarded Best Resort Dining in BC by Vancouver Magazine. Available 7 days a week, you willfind in house freshly-baked artisanal bread, at the Driftwood Lounge. For more information call 250725 3100.

— by Kira Rogers

nin. CertifiedTop notch!

Maison des BRegnie, the 10of this regionraspberry fru

La Mano BieIt is good to sMedium boda plush textu

Mission HillPredominate(19%) and Peplex and polifined with a b


liquidassets

—by La

�� !"��#$"��%�&��'&�(�)��*�

��

10%

OFF

ANY

CASE OF

WINE

Expires 01/2/10

Upon Presentation of this

coupon you will receive 10%

off your entire purchase of any

regularly priced wine or spirit

when you purchase a case

(12 or more bottles).

EDP

Gary

Hynes

WI

I was flipping though my favourite Italian food magazine – La Cucina Italiana – and stopped to readan article on Lardo di Colonnata. Lardo di Colonnata is a unique delicacy from the northern tip ofTuscany that is gaining in popularity in North America. New York celebrity chef Mario Batali uses it onhis pizzas (but refers to it as proscuitto bianco, perhaps hoping to take avoid the ick factor whencustomers read it on the menu).

Lardo has been made for centuries using the same process, in the same region. Almost headed forextinction at one point, now Lardo di Colonnata is the first traditional Italian food to be protectedunder the Arca del Gusto di Slow Food.

Lardo is pork fat (lard) that is cured in marble tubs that have been rubbed with garlic. The lard isimmersed in a brine of sea salt and herbs and spices (often including black pepper, rosemary,cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, sage, oregano and even aniseed) and cured for 6-10 months. Due to thisnatural maturation process it is free from preservatives. I wanted to try this generations old artisanproduct but short of calling up Mario and heading to NYC I wasn’t sure where to find it.

As luck would have it, the day after reading the magazine article I received an email from AndrewMoyer from Ottavio in Oak Bay announcing a new product from Vancouver producer Oyama Sausagecalled Lardo Toscano. I picked up a small slab and brought it home to see what it was like.

Traditionally, the way Tuscans eat lardo is too slice it paper thin and eat it on good bread—some-times unadorned, sometimes with onions and tomatoes. I tried my lardo plain on a warm, toasted,rough-cut, thick slice of Rustic White from Wildfire Bakery. It was delicious – like butter but better. It

was creamy—almost silky in texture, mild and slightly sweet with plenty of fragrant herb flavours. But what about all that fat? Can’t be good for you? Actually, good quality pork fatcontains a higher percentage of heart-healthy unsaturated fats than butter.

Lardo di Colonnata can also be used on top of lean meats such as turkey, pheasant or pork loin. I tried it on top of some salmon filets that I roasted in the oven. The subtle pork flavour-ing was a perfect match as it didn’t overpower the salmon.

Next time you’re looking for something a little bit different try lardo. You’ll not only be continuing and supporting a centuries old tradition but by purchasing the local version you’ll besaving carbon miles.

Ottavio Italian Bakery & Delicatessen, 2272 Oak Bay Avenue, VictoriaOyama Sausage Company, Granville Island Public Market, Vancouver

Lardo di ColonnataARTISAN FOOD —by Gary Hynes

Gary

Hynes

OPEN DAILY, YEAR ROUNDquailsgate.com | 250-769-4451

‘Tis the Season for Great Food & Wine!

November 1st to December 23rd

Bring your family and friends to Old Vines Restaurant this Holiday Season to enjoy our

seasonally inspired menus prepared fresh daily by Chef Roger Sleiman.

Nutcracker LuncheonsScrumptious 3-course Lunch, $30 per person

Festive DinnersHoliday entertaining made easy! Menus

starting at $39 per person (groups of 15 or more)

Come Celebrate the Season!

Holiday Open HouseSunday, December 6th | 1 - 4 pm

15% off Wineshop purchases! Admission with donation to the Food Bank

Direct to your mailbox• Event notices• Editor’s Picks• Wine reviews• Chef recipes• Prizes

Get your free newsletter atwww.eatmagazine.ca

WHITESSonoma-Cutrer Russian River RanchesChardonnay 07 | California | $30.00-33.00

Most definitely of the fruit cocktail genre,with a healthy dollop of pear, pineapple,mango and roasted hazelnuts on the nosewith more of the same on the palate! Mediumbodied with an oily texture, a crunch of re-freshing acidity and a hint of spicy oak on thefinish. Highly enjoyable.

Vasse Felix Margaret River Chardonnay2006 | Australia | $22.00-24.00

Very attractive with a lovely nose, creamy tex-ture and ripe peach, citrus and spice flavours.Somewhat understated but very elegant witha core of fresh zippy acidity and great length.Simply superb.

REDSBisceglia Treje Aglianico Basilicata 2005| Italy | $26.00-30.00This blend of Aglianico, Merlot and Syrahfrom the south of Italy is interesting to say theleast! It is very precocious, with explosive

fruit and spice flavours and a firm rasp of tan-nin. Certified organic with a state of the art winery and a winemaker that spares no expense!Top notch!

Maison des Bulliats Regnie | France | $16.00-18.00Regnie, the 10th Cru of Beaujolais is located between Brouilly and Morgon. True to the winesof this region Bulliats is light and supple with a silky texture and gobs of sweet, cherry andraspberry fruit flavours. Delicious served slightly cool!

La Mano Bierzo Mencia Roble 2006 | Spain | $14.00-16.00It is good to see that for the most part Spain has stuck by her bounty of indigenous varietals.Medium bodied with pronounced raspberry, earth and spice flavours, nicely balanced witha plush texture. Highly recommended.

Mission Hill Family Estate Compendium 2006 | BC | $30.00-3500Predominately Merlot with more than a splash of Cabernet Sauvignon (19%), Cabernet Franc(19%) and Petit Verdot (10%) aged in new French oak for 13 months, Compendium is com-plex and polished with layers of lush fruit flavours on a toasty oak frame. Balanced and re-fined with a blush of fine-grained tannins and great length. Very highly recommended.

Domaine La Galine Minervois 2007 | France | $19.00-22.00Not a whole lot of finesse just a whole lot of fruit! Predominately Syrah with a splash ofGranache (20%) thrown in for good measure, this robust red from the south of France haslush berry, spice and black pepper flavours, good weight and a long firm finish. Simply de-licious!

Vecchia Cantina Chianti 2007 | Italy | $14.00-16.00A solid little Chianti that drinks like a classico! Medium bodied with red cherry and eartharomas, nicely balanced with simple fruit flavours and a soft blush of tannin. Worth everypenny.

Joie PTG 2007 | BC | $30.00-32.00Go figure. These two could make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear. Passetoutegrain, a blend ofPinot Noir and Gamay, is not exactly the belle of the Beaune, but boy does this wine hit allthe right buttons. PTG combines the best attributes of both partners. It is medium bodiedwith ripe cherry, spice and smoke flavours, a silky smooth texture and a long persistent fin-ish. Very highly recommended!

Flechas de los Andes Gran Malbec 2006 | Argentina | $33.00-36.00This monster from Mendoza will put paid to all those who doubt the potential of Malbecfrom Argentina not to mention Kosher wine from the planet. Flechas de los Andes is a jointventure between Baron Benjamin de Rothschild and Laurent Dassault, one of the orginalpartners in Michel Rolland’s Clos de los Siete project. Coming in at a whopping 15.5% alco-hol this incredible uber-Malbec is black as pitch and as dense as a dwarf star. Super con-centrated, with black cherry, pepper and earth aromas, this brute will stain the crystal, notto mention everything else it comes into contact with. It does not let up on the palate, au con-traire, my pasty little friends; the dense fruit flavours come at your genteel unsuspectingpalate in unrelenting waves of deliciousness. Oh, did I say 15.5% Well you would never knowit; smooth as your baby’s bottom, with a mind blowing finish! Very tasty but avoid spillage!

SPIRITSVan Gogh Mango Vodka | Netherlands | $45.00-48.00Hand crafted in small batches, these guys make the best fruit flavoured vodka in the solarsystem. Tastes like what I imagine a just picked perfectly ripe mango right off the tree oughtto taste like but delivers a punch like Mike Tyson. Keep a quart in the freezer and drink withextreme caution; this fruity little elixir could put you down for the count in a couple of rounds!

FORTIFIEDTaylor Fladgate LBV Port 2003 Port (half bottle) | Portugal | $16.00-18.00For every season there is a wine and what better for fall or winter than a LBV. Taylor Fladgatehas long been the best selling port in Canada and the 2003 LBV is as good as it gets. Full bod-ied with ripe cherry, spice and chocolate nuances on the nose, lush dark fruit flavours anda silky smooth texture that belies the grip on the finish.


liquidassets

—by Larry Arnold

EDITOR’SPICK

Gary

Hynes

VICTORIAGin

Welcomes you to our distillery,weekends in December,

for Spirits and Cheer.

victoriaspirits.com

WITH GOOD CHEER!

e toast the magnificent, rich farmland of the SaanichPeninsula, and pleasures for the palate it produces.Come raise a glass at Sea Cider, where Kristen and BruceJordan's organic orchard and tasting room welcomesvisitors year round. Check the website for a calendar ofconvivial events.A warm welcome and new friends await at Victoria SpiritsDistillery, where Peter Hunt and family produce the finestGin to be found anywhere. Come see the gleamingcopper still in action and have the distilling processexplained. Let the celebrations begin!

j

pped to readorthern tip oftali uses it on

factor when

st headed forbe protected

c. The lard iser, rosemary,s. Due to thiss old artisan

from Andrewama Sausageke.read—some-arm, toasted,but better. It

ality pork fat

pork flavour-

sion you’ll be

OUNDq 4451

d & Wine!

N er 23rd

B Old Vines R to enjoy our

s ared fresh d man.

N nsS 0 per person

Fy! Menus

s of 15 or more)


Open 7 days a week5325 Cordova Bay Rd. 250-658-3116

Our service can best be described as“Knowledgeable,

yet not pretentious……approachable,

with a hint of sass!”

ON THIS FARM THERE IS A “WINE ELF”

a tMATTICK’S FARM

www.vqawineshop.ca

VVQQAA WWiinnee SShhooppicewine, gifts and more…

1715 Government [email protected]

Dinner 5:30 - 11 pmTuesday to Saturday

Call it faith or forward thinking, but Dennis Zanatta had a hunch VancouverIsland could produce some great wines. His 120-acre farm in the Glenora areaof the Cowichan Valley, southwest of Duncan, was originally a dairy farm andZanatta was actually in the stone and tile business. But the Italian-bornZanatta, one of 11 children from a farming family near Venice, planted somegrape vines for his own use, purchasing them from the old federal researchstation in Saanich just to try things out here and there. One day in the ’80s, hewas approached by a provincial government agent, John Vielvoye, and askedwhether he’d be interested in growing wine grapes in an experimental vine-yard on his land.

Zanatta agreed, providing Vielvoye and his crew with an acre on which theytried various cool-climate vinifera varieties like Schoenburger, Kerner,Siegerrebe, Ortega and Pinot Auxerrois, as well as hybrids like Cayuga, NewYork Muscat, Seyval Blanc and Okanagan Riesling. When funding for that gov-ernment program eventually ran out, Zanatta continued to farm the grapeshimself and simply allowed the government to take what they needed for theirwinemaking research station in Summerland. He would make wine with therest, discovering on his own what varieties suited his land.

“Dad was really keen on the results of the Ortega especially, and theCayuga,” explains his daughter, Loretta Zanatta, who along with her husband,Jim Moody, makes the wine for Vigneti Zanatta today. “So we decided to plant five acres ofthose varieties.” Though the Zanatta family wasn’t yet producing wine commercially, Den-nis, who died in 2008, had definitely passed on his love of wine and grapes to his daughter,who first got a degree in plant science at UBC and then studied winemaking—with an em-phasis on sparkling wine—with a relative in northern Italy.

Her return to the family farm in 1990 happened to coincide with a change in provincial vine-yard estate licensing, so that now only two acres of grapes were needed, rather than 25, tomake and sell wine to the public. The family applied and produced their first vintage of Or-tega in 1992. “When we opened, we were the only winery [in the area],” says Loretta, “so itwas really complicated trying to get our wine into beer and wine stores. There was a lot ofground to break.”

Nonetheless, Dennis Zanatta clearly saw the potential to grow good grapes on the landand encouraged his daughter to stick with it. “We started expanding in 1992, before we knewhow well it would do,” says Loretta. “Dad had a lot of faith in the industry. There were greatchanges coming. He was always a real forward thinker. He just started planting east. He

started with the Ortega vineyard, which is our most western vineyard and then he continuedalong the same slope and planted Pinot Auxerrois and Pinot Gris. He had the highlandcleared—the higher hill with the nice gravely soil—and he put in the Pinot Noir and Muscat.He just wanted those slopes planted. He said, ‘Plant it now and it should be good, but if youwant to change or the market changes, then pull it out. But at least you have your infra-structure and you’re ready to go.’”

Today Vigneti Zanatta produces about 3,000 cases a year. The bulk of that production isdedicated to their unique and very popular Damasco white wine, a floral, fruity and slightlyfrizzante blend of some of those same varieties Dennis had the foresight to put in—Ortega,Pinot Auxerrois, Muscat and Madeleine Sylvaner. But they also have several tasty sparklingofferings (including one made with the unique Cayuga grape), as well as other cool-climatevarietals. The winery, as well as a restaurant, Vinoteca, and a tasting room all occupy theZanatta family’s old farmhouse, and there are currently 30 acres under vine. Not surprisingly,all the grapes used for Zanatta wines are estate-grown. And Loretta, having tasted winesmade here for more than 20 years, definitely believes there is a distinct Vancouver Island ter-

Vigneti ZanattaA leap of faith off some gravelly slopes in the CowichanValley of Vancouver Island.—By Adem Tepedelen

WINEMAKER LORETTA ZANATTA IN HER VINEYARD AT VIGNETI ZANATTA

roir, mostly dher opinion,to do particu

“I can tellOkanagan qutends to be aand have muhave a long gonce thingsslow releaseOctober, andthose sorts o

And thanksfantastic winPinot Noir gr

Best VintaTasting RoWeb: wwwPhone: 250Address: 5

RebeccaWellm

an

A WThinkto givi

CONT’D ON THE BOTTOMOF THE NEXT PAGE

Like wearingwhen done pIt’s all aboutsalty tang ofbaked ham ager, buttery Ctoffee puddin

Here are a fe

Sumac Ridgever canister iapple-and-cr

Move on to mtain Vineyardalso worthy o

Okanagan RiGoose Stonynailed rieslin

For fruit-drivGewurz, we l

Thirty or so byards Tributenotch Burgun

Tinhorn Creefork over $60apricot necta

Note: Winesstaff for alter

—BY JULIE P


t Street2 60w cae ca

D 1 pmT urday

he continuedthe highlandand Muscat.

od, but if youve your infra-

production isy and slightlyt in—Ortega,sty sparklingcool-climate

ll occupy thesurprisingly,

tasted winesver Island ter-

NATTA

roir, mostly due to what some may feel is a negative: the weather. It’s something that, inher opinion, actually encourages two classic Alsatian varietals, Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris,to do particularly well here.

“I can tell a Pinot Gris that’s grown on Vancouver Island as opposed to one that’s anOkanagan quite quickly,” she says. “The Okanagan tends to be a fruitier wine and ourstends to be a bit more earthy. I find the Pinot Noirs on Vancouver Island are much fruitierand have much more spice to them than the Okanagans. I really believe it’s because wehave a long growing season. We may not start up great-guns like the Okanagan does whereonce things get warm, they get very warm and everything buds out. Here it’s the reallyslow release of the bud, the slow flowering, slow everything. And it just carries on throughOctober, and with that longer season I think the flavours are developing much better inthose sorts of varietals.”

And thanks to her father’s tremendous leap of faith that Vancouver Island could producefantastic wines, Loretta’s been able to prove him right using, among others, Pinot Gris andPinot Noir grown on the very vines he put in more than two decades ago.

Best Vintages: 1998, 2000 (for reds), 2005 (Pinot Noir), 2006, 2007 (Ortega)Tasting Room Hours: 12 to 4:30 p.m, Wednesday to SundayWeb: www.zanatta.caPhone: 250-748-2338Address: 5039 Marshall Rd., Duncan, B.C. V9L 6S3

919 Douglas Street Victoria BC 250.370.WINE (9463)www.strathliquor.com

Ales Wines & SpiritsFrom around the world

Value brands to classics

Open 7 days 10 am to 11 pmFree delivery on case orders

Chilled Wines & Beers

Great selection of wines, spirits and beers for Fall, Winter and the Holiday Season,

now in store.Gift wrapping and beautiful custom

built gift baskets. We have yourperfect gift solution!

RebeccaWellm

an

2 5 7 9 C a d b o r o B a y R o a d

BESIDE SLATER'S MEATSACROSS FROM PURE VANILLA BAKERY

LOTS OF CUSTOMER PARKINGC A L L 2 5 0 . 5 9 2 . 8 4 6 6

DOMESTIC WINE SPECIALISTS

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEKWINERY DIRECT PRICES

CHILLED WINES ~ AT NO EXTRA COST

HUGE SELECTION OF ICEWINE

WEDDING & PARTY PLANNING FREE DELIVERY

ON CASE ORDERS

FOR MORE INFORMATION

GO TOWWW.BCWINEGUYS.COM

A WHITE CHRISTMASThink British Columbia white when it comesto giving wines this holiday season.

HE NEXT PAGE

Like wearing white after Labour Day, drinking white in winter gets a bit of a bad rap. But,when done properly, as in fashion, white wine can be a wonderful benefit to a chilly evening.It’s all about the “fabric”. Zippy Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and no-oak Chardonnay love thesalty tang of a fresh-shucked oyster. Fruit-driven Riesling and Chenin Blanc shine withbaked ham and Indian curry cozies up to Gewurztraminer. Turkey struts its stuff with a big-ger, buttery Chardonnay. Late Harvest and Ice Wines cling nicely to English trifle or stickytoffee pudding. Bubble goes anytime, anywhere.

Here are a few suggestions for a hostess or holiday gift, or to take to a dinner party

Sumac Ridge 2010 Olympic commemorative bubble, Tribute, gussied up in a blue and sil-ver canister is an ideal festive gift. ($30) while affordable See Ya Later Brut N/V presentsapple-and-cream fizz, courtesy of a chardonny/riesling blend. ($25)

Move on to melon-nuanced Pinot Blanc or peachy Pinot Gris. Lake Breeze and Blue Moun-tain Vineyards turn out fine versions of both. Veterans, Gray Monk and Tinhorn Creek, arealso worthy of your cash. (All wines around $20)

Okanagan Riesling smacks of orchard fruit and tends toward off-dry. Firm and “Flinty” WildGoose Stony Slope Riesling impresses. Tantalus Old Vines is a thing of beauty, while Joienailed riesling in 2008.

For fruit-driven Chenin Blanc look to Quail’s Gate or widely available Inniskillin. As forGewurz, we like the dry reticent styles fashioned by Cedar Creek and Arrowleaf.

Thirty or so bucks brings you sun-and-oak-kissed Chardonnay from Meyer Family Vine-yards Tribute Series or Black Hills (MFV Micro-Cuve, clocks in around $70 but rivals top-notch Burgundy).

Tinhorn Creek Late Harvest Kerner ($13/200ml) always delivers delightful sweetness. Orfork over $60 for First Nation’s owned Nk’Mip Riesling ice wine, a superb honey-and-apricot nectar.

Note: Wines were judged to be in good supply at time of writing. Please ask wine shopstaff for alternate suggestions if selections are unavailable. Prices and vintages may vary.

—BY JULIE PEGG

TraditiFor most of usolute neceswith all the wtart cranberrwhite, grapesnier and Albasuch as Pinochoice will ening a rosé.

RecommendaWhite2008 Paul MA delightfulacidity balan

2008 TouquiPerhaps thevarinho grapefor more.

Red2007 FrescobCrunchy redmoney.

2008 MarcelThis cru Beautasty. Vibrantthan this.

AlternaIf turkey simpChristmas. MAfter years ofner featureddishes. As fopart from theBlanc or Pinoand is in kee

RecommendaWhite2007 Blue MWhite pear aquality make

Red2007 StoneleFresh and puhonest Pinot

2007 Quails’Balanced andNoir’s possib

Other boEven if you hwant to be pEach has a bo

The gift of alA bottle of wunsure abouphisticated sAussie Shirafavourite reg

Our holiday shopping list is back by popular demand. We’ve got the wine covered for every occasionover the season. Plan in advance and avoid running around at the last minute. With all the time yousave, you’ll have plenty of opportunities to sit back and relax with a glass of wine (or two).

Large gatheringsBrace yourself; there will be plenty of them. It could be the annual office party or a blowout bash for all of your Face-book friends. Whether you are a guest or the host, cheap and cheerful wines are the way to go. The larger the gath-ering, the less sure you can be of the menu. A potluck affair guarantees a hodgepodge of dishes, so you need versatilewines to deal with all of the different flavours. Stay away from the obscure and bring/serve something that everyonewill like. This year, we imposed a strict $15 maximum on these wines and were thrilled to find plenty for even less.

Recommendations:White2008 Domaine de Grachies, Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne, France - $11.95*This unassuming wine from the southwest of France packs a ton of personality for the price. Reminiscent of summerwith aromas of nectarine, fresh herbs and juicy, lemony acidity. A great inexpensive turkey wine as well.

Also worth seeking out:2008 Storks’ Tower, Vino de la Tierra Castilla y León, Spain - $12.992008 Lurton, Pinot Gris, Argentina - $13.99

Red2005 Bodegas Piqueras, Castillo de Almansa, Reserva Almansa DO, Spain - $12.99What a pleasure to revisit this old staple! Savoury iron and dried raspberry seduce the palate. Very easy to drink onits own, but the tannin structure will love any meaty treats.

2007 Château de Valcombe, Costières de Nimes AOC, France - $12.99Lifted floral and wild berry aromas and flavours. Great concentration and surprisingly polished for the money. This isa crowd pleaser, especially if you are looking for something fuller bodied.

2008 Lamura, Rosso di Sicilia IGT, Italy - $14.99*Made from Sicily’s flagship grape Nero d’Avola, the Lamura is all sweet blackberry, prunes and fig. And it’s organic toboot.

Also worth seeking out:2008 Bodega Norton, Lo Tengo, Malbec, Argentina - $13.992006 Canaletto, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, Italy - $14.99*


WINE&TER

ROIR

The HolidayWine ListsMichaela Morris and Michelle Bouffard

offer readers an early Christmas gift—wine listsfor every holiday occasion.

SparklingCristalino, Brut Cava DO, Spain - $15.00*We tried this wine blind a couple of years ago. What a surprisewhen we found out what it was! Glad to see that it is finally backon our shelves.

Also worth seeking out:n/v Codorniu, Classico, Brut, Spain - $13.99n/v Hungaria, Grande Cuvée, Brut, Hungary - $13.90

Intimate fancy dinnerMay the season bless you with a rare evening when you cancatch up with an old friend or even your loved one. This is themoment to splurge. Cook a meat you don’t eat often and servewith a carefully selected wine. Some of our favourite matches in-clude duck with Pinot Noir, goose with Pinot Gris from Alsace,pheasant with Sangiovese (Chianti or Rosso di Montalcino), rab-bit with aged Nebbiolo (Barolo or Barbaresco if you have thebudget) and venison with Northern Rhône Syrah. These all bringback delicious memories. If you don’t have 10 kids underfootand can’t stand turkey, any of the above combinations wouldmake a worthy Christmas dinner.

Recommendations:White2006 Paul Zinck, Pinot Gris, Alsace AOC, France - $21.99*Bursting with autumn orchard apples. Pure and concentratedon the palate and a long finish. Excellent value from Alsace.

Red2006 Querciabella, Chianti Classico DOC, Italy - $39.99While this is our pheasant wine, we certainly wouldn’t turn downa glass with duck or rabbit. Sweet spice, cherry and floralflavours are complemented by amazing minerality and a trulyelegant structure.

2006 La Spinetta, Nebbiolo Langhe DOC, Italy - $39.99Has all the heady Nebbiolo aromas that make us weak at theknees. Though young, this Nebbiolo is drinking well now.

2007 Château Saint Cosme, Saint-Joseph AOC, France - $50.00*A seductive Syrah from the northern Rhône. Violets, black cur-rant and slightly meaty aromas call out for something gameylike venison.

Traditional turkey dinner with all the trimmingsFor most of us, turkey dinner is what makes it Christmas. At our table, wine is also an ab-solute necessity. But rumour has it that this is a tricky meal to pair with wine. What goeswith all the weird and wonderful side dishes like bitter Brussels sprouts, sweet yams andtart cranberry sauce? Luckily, there are plenty of options in all hues. When it comes towhite, grapes with persistent aromas like Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Grüner-Veltliner, Viog-nier and Albariño tend to work best. As for reds, stick with those that are softer in tanninsuch as Pinot Noir, Barbera, Gamay, Grenache and Valpolicella. Offering a red and whitechoice will ensure everyone’s palate is pleased. You can even add a bit of sunshine by serv-ing a rosé.

Recommendations:White2008 Paul Mas, Viognier, France - $13.99A delightful inexpensive Viognier with slightly honeyed and ripe peach nuances. Goodacidity balances out the richness.

2008 Touquinheiras, Vinho Verde DOC, Portugal – 33.00*Perhaps the most serious Vinho Verde you’ll come across. Made from the indigenous Al-varinho grape. Pungent and lush flavours of peach and apricot. Your guests will be beggingfor more.

Red2007 Frescobaldi, Remole, IGT Toscana, Italy - $14.99Crunchy red cherry and firm structure, this is definitely a food wine. Totally solid for themoney.

2008 Marcel Lapierre, Morgon AOC, France - $39.90This cru Beaujolais from Morgon is always a favourite, but the 2008 vintage is particularlytasty. Vibrant cherries and raspberries jump out of the glass. It doesn’t get more charmingthan this.

Alternative Christmas dinnerIf turkey simply isn’t your thing or you don’t eat meat, it’s time to create a new tradition forChristmas. Make it a west coast seafood feast. Oysters and crab are a great way to start.After years of putting up with turkey, Michaela was thrilled when last year’s Christmas din-ner featured salmon. The meal can still be festive if accompanied by the customary sidedishes. As for wine, the guidelines are similar to those for your turkey spread. You can de-part from the aromatic whites and go for something like an unoaked Chardonnay, PinotBlanc or Pinot Gris. In terms of reds, a Pinot Noir from the Okanagan Valley works a treatand is in keeping with the local theme.

Recommendations:White2007 Blue Mountain, Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley - $24.00*White pear and orange, great concentration and a refreshing backbone. Its slightly salinequality makes us crave shellfish.

Red2007 Stoneleigh, Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand - $22.99Fresh and pure on the nose with very bright acidity on the palate. Not overly complex buthonest Pinot Noir at a decent price.

2007 Quails’ Gate, Stewart Family Reserve, Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley - $45.00*Balanced and silky with dark forest berries and earthy flavours. A fine example of PinotNoir’s possibilities in the Okanagan.

Other booze-buying opportunitiesEven if you have all of the dinners covered, your list is nowhere near complete. You’ll alsowant to be prepared for impromptu visits, last-minute gifts and random sugar attacks.Each has a boozy solution.

The gift of alcoholA bottle of wine is always appropriate and guaranteed to be appreciated. Even if you areunsure about what to buy someone, it will still seem thoughtful. To demonstrate your so-phisticated side to your boss, stick with classics like Bordeaux, Brunello and high-endAussie Shiraz. These are safe bets. For your honey, spoil them with a wine from theirfavourite region. (Boys, you know how we love our Burgundies!)


tsat a surprises finally back

90

hen you cane. This is theen and servee matches in-from Alsace,talcino), rab-

you have thehese all bringds underfootations would

$21.99*concentratedm Alsace.

39.99n’t turn downry and floraly and a truly

39.99weak at the

ell now.

nce - $50.00*ts, black cur-thing gamey


HAUTE CUISINE 1210 BROAD ST., VICTORIA, BC 250.388.9906

F I E S TA WA R E F I E S TA WA R E F I E S TA WA R EF

IES

TA

WA

RE

FIE

STA

WA

RE F

IES

TA

WA

RE

FIE

STA

WA

RE

Lemongrass

W

Turkeys on JD Farms, a family-owned turkey farm in the beautiful Fraser Valley, are fed a natural diet of grain,

vitamins and minerals without any medication or animal b

well-ventilated barns with free access to fresh water and a constant supply of fresh feed. Special care and diet create

t

M

Recommendations:Red2004 Penfolds, Bin 28, Kalimna Shiraz, Australia - $40.99Licorice, blackberry and blueberry notes. On the palate, dense and intriguing, with goodcomplexity and balance and a silky texture. Drinking well now but also has great aging po-tential.

2004 Altesino, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Italy - $59.99A fantastic vintage for Brunello. Make sure you tell the lucky recipient to tuck it away for afew years.

For Bordeaux lovers, comb the BC Liquor Store shelves for what is left of the newly released2006 vintage.

Festive BubbleWhatever you do, just make sure you have plenty on hand. We can (and do) drink bubbleall year round; you may recall our “bubble diet” .... If you really need an excuse to drinksparkling, the holidays offer plenty of them. Champagne is an expensive treat, appropriateif you are among people who will appreciate it. It is less suitable for large shindigs wherethe bubble is free-flowing. Instead, choose from the huge variety of bubbly wines avail-able like Cava (from Spain), Prosecco (from Italy) and Crémant (France’s inexpensive al-ternative to Champagne).

Recommendations:Sacchetto Pinot Rosa delle Venezie IGT Frizzante, Italy - $19.00*This festive pink rosé is simple but very quaffable. It shows off Pinot Noir’s frivolous side.

2006 Antech, Crémant de Limoux AOC, France - $24.99When you have Champagne tastes on a beer budget, this is a real stunner for the money.

n/v Henri Billiot & Fils, Brut Reserve, Champagne AOC, France - $80.00*A fabulous Grower’s Champagne that is worth every penny. Exuberant ripe strawberries,fine mousse and lingering mineral finish. Share with someone special.

Dessert wineThe holiday season is a decadent time. You may already be dreaming about the sweettreats like Christmas pudding, sticky toffee pudding, shortbread and gingerbread cookiesand all those boxes of chocolate. If you are going to indulge, go big and pair with an equallysinful dessert wine. These elixirs are also delectable with a stinky piece of blue cheese orwill satisfy your sweet tooth on their own.

Recommendations:n/v Hardys, Whiskers Blake Tawny, Australia - $25.99Sweet, intense and decadent flavours of toffee, caramel, figs and roasted nuts. A hedo-nist’s dream come true.

Also worth seeking out:2004 Quinta do Crasto, Vintage Port, Portugal - $65.87

Stocking the liquor cabinetSpirits are just as important as wine over the holidays. Our parents and grandparents useto stock up their liquor cabinets for the season, making sure they had everyone’s favouritelibations on hand. This magnificent tradition should be perpetuated. Get ready to entertainfriends and family and be prepared for those impromptu visits. Following are our 10 must-haves to quench your guests’ thirst:Torres, 5 Brandy, Spain - $26.60Baileys Irish Cream, Ireland - $28.45 (for adding to coffee if you are Michelle)Hendricks Dry Gin, U.K. - $41.99Redbreast, 12-year-old whiskey, Ireland – $54.95El Dorado, 15-year-old rum, Guyana – $59.99Grand Marnier, Cuvée Louis Alexandre, France - $78.99Hangar One, Spiced Pear Vodka, U.S. - $79.99Oban, 14-year-old single malt scotch, Scotland - $114.95Clear Creek, Pear Brandy, Oregon - $59.99*Marcel Trépout, Armagnac, France (from 1979 to 1910 – prices vary)

This is just the minimum. If Uncle Mario is sure to make his annual appearance and grappais his tipple of choice, it should be on your list.

www.themarketstores.com 125-2401 C Millstream Road 250 391-1110 8 AM-11 PM903 Yates At Quadra 250 381-6000 7 AM-11 PM

What makes a JD Farms turkey so special?

Turkeys on JD Farms, a family-owned turkey farm in the beautiful Fraser Valley, are fed a natural diet of grain,

vitamins and minerals without any medication or animal by-products. The turkeys are raised in spacious,

well-ventilated barns with free access to fresh water and a constant supply of fresh feed. Special care and diet create

the highest quality and exceptional flavour.

Market Stores are pleased to offer them for your festive gathering this holiday season.

aYYa 6000 7 AM-1-0 3825at Quadrs Aeta 11 PMAM- aetrills1 C M024125- 11 PM1110 8 AM-91-0 3ad 25oam R

g, with goodeat aging po-

k it away for a

ewly released

drink bubblecuse to drink, appropriateindigs wherewines avail-

expensive al-

rivolous side.

r the money.

strawberries,

ut the sweetread cookiesth an equallyue cheese or

uts. A hedo-

dparents usene’s favouritey to entertainour 10 must-

)

e and grappa

eat magazine nov | dec 2009

Documents

s u s t

e f r e s h s e

n t s r e c i p e s

n e s c u

thiscopyisfreer e s

chef s

r y t r

v e lwww