eat magazine march | april 2012

Cover phot

EAT m

EAT is delivein BC includKelowna, Th

CommunitNanaimo: K : Anya Levykh,Okanagan: Claire Sear, Victoria: Rebecca Baugniet, Comox Valley: Eli BlakeWeb ReportersDeanna Ladret, Ellie Shortt, Susan Evans, Treve RingContributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Jennifer Danter, Jen Dart,Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Tracey Kusiewicz, Anya Levykh, CearaLornie, Denise Marchessault, Sandra McKenzie, Michaela Morris, Julie Pegg, GenevieveLaplante, Treve Ring, Claire Sear, Elizabeth Smyth, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock,Rebecca Wellman, Caroline West.

Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark.

Advertising: 250.384.9042, [email protected]

Mailing address: Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4,

Tel: 250.384.9042 Email: [email protected] Website: eatmagazine.ca

Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced

without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island

Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed

in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves

the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.for people who love to cook

BBrrooaaddmmeeaadd VViillllaaggee,, VViiccttoorriiaa113300--777777 RRooyyaall OOaakk DDrriivvee

225500--772277--22111100

Bridal Registry Available

a knife for every task

forged perfection

20% Off

Open 7 nights5pm | midnight Tues-Sat5pm | 10pm Sun-Mon250 . 388 . 42221307 Gladstone Avenue, Victoriawww.stagewinebar.com twitter.com/stagewinebar

Face to Facewith Stephen Quigley

Not just a Wine Bar

Main PlatesThe Exceptional Eats! ReaderAwards - The Results . ....14

RECIPESYour Fry Day Starts Here ..26Appy Hour . . . . . . . . . . . . .....32

PRODUCERS SERIESSea Veggies . . . . . . . . . . . .....30

Destination Kelowna . . .....36New Brewery . . . . . . .46Book Review . . . . . . . .41

1 0 0 % O R G A N I C | F A I R T R A D E | L O C A L LY O W N E D | S U S TA I N A B L E

Since 1992 we’ve been creating the world’s finest, freshest, organic teas, skin and body products.

It all started in Victoria’s Historic Chinatown, with a passion for premium quality ingredients and exceptional customer service, an eco-friendly approach and a commitment to our community - values which continue to be just as important to us today as they were when we started.

Thank you for all your support over these years. We are looking forward to celebrating with you!

Join us online or sign up for our e-news to be the first to know about our birthday

celebrations throughout 2012.

SilkRoadVictoria @silkroadtea

silkroadtea.com 1624 Government St. Victoria Chinatown

TapasConcierge Desk . . . . . . . 06

Epicure At Large . . . . . . .08

Food Matters . . . . . . . . . .09

Meet the Chef . . . . . . . . .10

(Okanagan edition . . . . . .46)

Top Shelf . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Good For You . . . . . . . . .12

Get Fresh . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Eating Well for Less . . . .22

Reporter . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Wine + Terroir . . . . . . . .38

Liquid Assets . . . . . . . . . .40

Wine & Food Pairing . . .42

News from around BC . .43

Chefs’ Talk . . . . . . . . . . .47

3www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012

Cover photography: “Fry Day” by Michael Tourigny

EAT magazine march & april 2012

EAT is delivered to over 300 pick-up locationsin BC including Victoria, Vancouver,Kelowna, The Islands and the Okanagan

twitter.com/EatMagazine

Facebook/EatMagazine

Editor in Chief Gary HynesContributing Editor Carolyn Bateman,

Online DRINK Editor Treve RingVancouver Contributing Editor Julie PeggOkanagan Contributing Editor Claire Sear

Community ReportersNanaimo: Karma Brophy, Tofino | Uclulet: Jen Dart, Vancouver:: Anya Levykh,Okanagan: Claire Sear, Victoria: Rebecca Baugniet, Comox Valley: Eli BlakeWeb ReportersDeanna Ladret, Ellie Shortt, Susan Evans, Treve RingContributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Jennifer Danter, Jen Dart,Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Tracey Kusiewicz, Anya Levykh, CearaLornie, Denise Marchessault, Sandra McKenzie, Michaela Morris, Julie Pegg, GenevieveLaplante, Treve Ring, Claire Sear, Elizabeth Smyth, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock,Rebecca Wellman, Caroline West.

Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark.

Advertising: 250.384.9042, [email protected]

Mailing address: Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4,

Tel: 250.384.9042 Email: [email protected] Website: eatmagazine.ca

Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced

without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island

Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed

in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves

the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

Open 7 nights5pm | midnight Tues-Sat5pm | 10pm Sun-Mon250 . 388 . 42221307 Gladstone Avenue, Victoriawww.stagewinebar.com twitter.com/stagewinebar

Face to Facewith Stephen Quigley

Not just a Wine Bar

Main PlatesThe Exceptional Eats! ReaderAwards - The Results . ....14

RECIPESYour Fry Day Starts Here ..26Appy Hour . . . . . . . . . . . . .....32

PRODUCERS SERIESSea Veggies . . . . . . . . . . . .....30

Destination Kelowna . . .....36New Brewery . . . . . . .46Book Review . . . . . . . .41

1 0 0 % O R G A N I C | F A I R T R A D E | L O C A L LY O W N E D | S U S TA I N A B L E

Since 1992 we’ve been creating the world’s finest, freshest, organic teas, skin and body products.

It all started in Victoria’s Historic Chinatown, with a passion for premium quality ingredients and exceptional customer service, an eco-friendly approach and a commitment to our community - values which continue to be just as important to us today as they were when we started.

Thank you for all your support over these years. We are looking forward to celebrating with you!

Join us online or sign up for our e-news to be the first to know about our birthday

celebrations throughout 2012.

SilkRoadVictoria @silkroadtea

silkroadtea.com 1624 Government St. Victoria Chinatown

W hen the winter rains have been falling for seeminglyweeks on end, I like to travel. I get tired of hunkering

down, cooking stews and chopping firewood for the woodstove.I long for a change of scenery and some fresh inspiration andnew tastes. Some of you might jet off to Hawaii or Mexico.Others could take a big boat cruise with their all-you-can-eatbuffets. But for me, it’s all about the food. I like to take mywinter break in San Francisco, birthplace of the locavore move-ment and, to many, the food capital of North America. Why?

The food scene is busy, vibrant, and creative, there’s often blue skies and it’s aboutten degrees warmer, flights are cheap and short (about two hours), and no pesky timezone change all make San Fran my go-to getaway. This year was no different. Destination San Francisco called and I answered. My four

days were a whirlwind of bleeding edge restaurants, comforting and classic cafes andplenty of shopping (food and wine). Both wine and food prices are less expensive andwithout the heavy hand of the BC liquor laws you can afford to trade up a level or twowhen choosing a wine from a restaurant wine list.My plane landed at SFO at 3:30pm and by 6:10 I had checked into my hotel and was

seated cozily in Barbacco Eno Trattoria, sipping a flute of Sorelle Bronca Prosecco. Theseating is communal, the dishes eclectic. I chose from a menu of piccoline (tiny), invasetto (in a jar—I could happily nosh on the spreadable smoked Calabrian salamesoftened with lardo daily for the foreseeable future.), inizio (starter), piedi e ali (feet &wings), dal grano (from wheat), and a lato (sides). The polpette (Sicilian meatballs withraisins and pine nuts) were so good.Another night it was the eye-opening Sons & Daughters. This tiny restaurant near

Union Square has an open kitchen and is at the forefront of re-envisioning Californiacuisine. The restaurant has a 1-acre, 32-box garden, greenhouse, and orchard locatedoutside the city that provides the restaurant with a huge variety of flowers, microgreens, herbs, vegetables, and fruit. Among the dishes I loved were the Foie-BloodOrange-Oats-Geranium (course one) and the Abalone-Burdock-Castelvetrano-Dill(course three). You might think theses combinations odd from reading the menu butthey fit deliciously together to create flavours I had never thought possible. Much of the restaurant and shop action has moved to the grittier Mission district

where rents are cheaper. I visited Tartine Bakery (think Fol Epi with long line-ups) andBi-Rite Market, the amazing grocery store that apparently was the inspiration forWhole Foods. Producing serious food in a casual room Commonwealth is redefiningthe concept of what a restaurant should be. It was named one of the ten bestrestaurants in the USA in 2011. If you go, don’t miss the Jerusalem Artichoke-Onioncooked in Hay-Quinoa-Chickweed-Quail Egg combination. Both Commonthweathchef Jason Fox and Sons & Daughters chefs Matt McNamara and Teague Moriarty havebeen influenced by the new genius of California cooking David Kinch of Manresa inLos Gatos. There were other excellent noshes and so many more possible stops but after four

days I was sated and happy to get back to soggy BC, our lovely local food scene andthe upcoming spring growing season – energized and invigorated. Gary Hynes, EditorI wish you all good eating (and traveling).

Monday to Friday7:30am to 6pm

Saturday8am to 5pm

WILD FIREorganic bakery & café

Proudly milling Vancouver island grown wheatUsing 99% locally grown and certified organic ingredients

250.381.34731517 Quadra Street

Victoria, BC www.wildfirebakery.ca

The True Character of the Barossa Region.

Captured in every bottle.

jacobscreek.ca

True to the region it’s from, one of gentle rolling hills, warm summer days

and cool evening breezes, comes a lush velvety Shiraz of incomparably true character.

FOR AVAILABILITY PLEASE VISIT bcliquorstores.com.

AWARD

WINNING

After 10 successful years we are closing our Victoria location this spring.

CLEARANCE SALE is on, with great deals on all in-stock items.

Victoria only, 1437 Store St.

We look forward to seeing you in our beautiful store in Sidney, Landmark building, 2506 Beacon Ave.

Kitchen . Dining . Bed . Bath

www.muffetandlouisa.com

editor’s note

W hen the winter rains have been falling for seeminglyweeks on end, I like to travel. I get tired of hunkering

down, cooking stews and chopping firewood for the woodstove.I long for a change of scenery and some fresh inspiration andnew tastes. Some of you might jet off to Hawaii or Mexico.Others could take a big boat cruise with their all-you-can-eatbuffets. But for me, it’s all about the food. I like to take mywinter break in San Francisco, birthplace of the locavore move-ment and, to many, the food capital of North America. Why?

The food scene is busy, vibrant, and creative, there’s often blue skies and it’s aboutten degrees warmer, flights are cheap and short (about two hours), and no pesky timezone change all make San Fran my go-to getaway. This year was no different. Destination San Francisco called and I answered. My four

days were a whirlwind of bleeding edge restaurants, comforting and classic cafes andplenty of shopping (food and wine). Both wine and food prices are less expensive andwithout the heavy hand of the BC liquor laws you can afford to trade up a level or twowhen choosing a wine from a restaurant wine list.My plane landed at SFO at 3:30pm and by 6:10 I had checked into my hotel and was

seated cozily in Barbacco Eno Trattoria, sipping a flute of Sorelle Bronca Prosecco. Theseating is communal, the dishes eclectic. I chose from a menu of piccoline (tiny), invasetto (in a jar—I could happily nosh on the spreadable smoked Calabrian salamesoftened with lardo daily for the foreseeable future.), inizio (starter), piedi e ali (feet &wings), dal grano (from wheat), and a lato (sides). The polpette (Sicilian meatballs withraisins and pine nuts) were so good.Another night it was the eye-opening Sons & Daughters. This tiny restaurant near

Union Square has an open kitchen and is at the forefront of re-envisioning Californiacuisine. The restaurant has a 1-acre, 32-box garden, greenhouse, and orchard locatedoutside the city that provides the restaurant with a huge variety of flowers, microgreens, herbs, vegetables, and fruit. Among the dishes I loved were the Foie-BloodOrange-Oats-Geranium (course one) and the Abalone-Burdock-Castelvetrano-Dill(course three). You might think theses combinations odd from reading the menu butthey fit deliciously together to create flavours I had never thought possible. Much of the restaurant and shop action has moved to the grittier Mission district

where rents are cheaper. I visited Tartine Bakery (think Fol Epi with long line-ups) andBi-Rite Market, the amazing grocery store that apparently was the inspiration forWhole Foods. Producing serious food in a casual room Commonwealth is redefiningthe concept of what a restaurant should be. It was named one of the ten bestrestaurants in the USA in 2011. If you go, don’t miss the Jerusalem Artichoke-Onioncooked in Hay-Quinoa-Chickweed-Quail Egg combination. Both Commonthweathchef Jason Fox and Sons & Daughters chefs Matt McNamara and Teague Moriarty havebeen influenced by the new genius of California cooking David Kinch of Manresa inLos Gatos. There were other excellent noshes and so many more possible stops but after four

days I was sated and happy to get back to soggy BC, our lovely local food scene andthe upcoming spring growing season – energized and invigorated. Gary Hynes, EditorI wish you all good eating (and traveling).

Monday to Friday7:30am to 6pm

Saturday8am to 5pm

WILD FIREorganic bakery & café

Proudly milling Vancouver island grown wheatUsing 99% locally grown and certified organic ingredients

250.381.34731517 Quadra Street

Victoria, BC www.wildfirebakery.ca

The True Character of the Barossa Region.

Captured in every bottle.

jacobscreek.ca

True to the region it’s from, one of gentle rolling hills, warm summer days

and cool evening breezes, comes a lush velvety Shiraz of incomparably true character.

FOR AVAILABILITY PLEASE VISIT bcliquorstores.com.

AWARD

WINNING

editor’s note

www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL6 EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012

APRILFRENCH WINE SCHOLAR COURSE

Take your passion for French wines to a new level with an in-depth 8-week course thatexplores the history and terroir of French wine regions. Students will have the op-portunity to taste many unique wines not currently available on the island and the op-tion to write a final exam to become a certified French Wine Scholar. This class is idealfor anyone currently pursuing Sommelier or WSET Diploma designations. Classes runfor nine weeks Mondays in Vancouver and Wednesdays in Victoria from Apr 2 or Apr4. (www.winecollege.ca, www.frenchwinesociety.org or call/email Mark [email protected] 1-800-667-7288 to register)

CALIFORNIA WINE FAIR 2011

Now in its 31st year of touring across Canada, the 2011 California Wine Fair boasts 350wines from 100 wineries throughout the Golden State. All under one roof, the rangeof wines includes products currently available in the market to new vintages and va-rietals that have yet to be released in the Canadian market. 600 guests sample wines,and bid on silent auction items including many of the hard-to-find wines featured atthe tasting. Apr 18 at the Vancouver Trade and Convention Centre. $65.(www.artsclub.com/events)

KAMLOOPS WINE FESTIVAL

Celebrate wine in all kinds of ways! The Kamloops Wine Festival (Apr 5-13) will hostseminars, tastings, and special dinners paired with excellent wines will be featured atmany of the best local restaurants. The festival culminates with the Consumer WineTasting at the Kamloops Convention Centre on Apr 13. More details to follow closerto the event. (www.kag.bc.ca)

UNCORK YOUR PALATE

A very special evening of wine, food and music at Victoria’s historic Crystal Garden,to benefit the Victoria Conservatory of Music. Participating restaurants and catererswill serve a sampling of hors d’oeuvres and appetizers, paired with fine wines from theNaramata Bench Wineries. Meet the winemakers and be the first to taste Naramata’sSpring Release wines. Bid on wines and other exciting packages at the silent and liveauctions. Apr 26. Tickets: $95. Tickets will be available online at TicketRocket at tick-etrocket.org/Uncork and at the Victoria Conservatory of Music 250-386-5311 Toll free1-866-386-5311. (www.vcm.bc.ca/calendars/uncork-your-palate)

OTTAVIO ANNUAL BIG CHEESE CUT

Come see the kitchen boys and girls of Ottavio cut the largest wheels of cheese madein the world today. Watch as they crack, cut and slice their way through the world’soldest cheeses. Learn about the animals and families that have produced these beau-ties for generations. Taste the history and tradition of the cheese making craft. Theywill be starting with some smaller wheels of artisan cheeses from Quebec and movethrough to the Italian king, Parmigiano Reggiano, and up to the 225 kg behemoth, theorganic, Swiss mountain Emmenthal. Samplings and specials on all cheeses cut. Agreat free event for the whole family. Apr 28 11.30 am - 1pm.

APRILANNUAL LUND SHELLFISH FESTIVAL

From May 26 - 28, the shores of Lund Harbour are transformed into an outdoor fes-tival boasting food vendors selling a variety of freshly cooked oysters, clams, mussels,prawns, and other delights. Festivities include a Chowder Challenge, live music, craftbooths, shellfish sales, art shows, free cooking demonstrations, BC’s Best Oysters Com-petition, contests, and kids’ play area. Sign up for a cruise of the nearby islands or aclam dig at Savary Island. Lund’s Shellfish Festival is handicap accessible and all wasteis recycled (no garbage is produced). More information is available at www.lundbc.ca.

MARCH2012 VANCOUVER PLAYHOUSE INTERNATIONAL WINE FESTIVAL The Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival is one of the biggest and oldestwine events in the world, offering something for every level of wine drinker, collectorand trade professional. Winery principals (winemaker, proprietor, senior executive)from selected wineries and countries will be in attendance to pour and discuss theirwines from Feb 27-- Mar 4.

GROWING FOOD IN THE CITY – ROYAL ROADS COURSE If you are concerned about where your food comes from, what’s in it (or on it), or sim-ply getting the best nutrition possible for your family – growing your own vegetablesand fruit is the answer. In this unique and timely course you will learn essential per-maculture and organic gardening techniques. This practical, hands-on course is opento everyone, no prior education or gardening experience required. Mar 3 – Sep 22.(www.royalroads.ca/continuing-studies)

ARTISAN COFFEE PAIRING MENU AT DEERHOLME FARMBill Jones will be working with Drumroaster Coffee to create a menu that showcasesthe flavour and creativity of premium coffee beans from a variety of origins. Dishes willinclude an Island Aged Farm house cheese ball with an espresso balsamic syrup and aCoffee cured Sockeye salmon gravlox with marinated king oyster mushroom, freshherb salad. $90/person (plus HST) Call 250 748�7450 for more information. Duncan,Mar 10. 5 - 9pm. (www.deerholme.com)

PICA SPRING BREAK TEEN CULINARY BOOT CAMP Spring break teen camp 2012 is all about learning the basics in Culinary, Baking &Pastry Arts. Teens will learn the importance of proper food (Food Safe) and equipmenthandling, knife skills and cleanliness in the kitchen while cooking and enjoying theirclass creations. Includes all supplies and ingredients and Pacific Institute of CulinaryArts' logo apron. Vancouver, Mar 12-16. $450.

PACIFIC RIM WHALE FESTIVAL GALA DINNER AND SILENT AUCTIONChef Nick Nutting and the kitchen brigade at the Wickaninnish Inn cook up somemagic, as wine pairings and tempting silent auction items complement the evening forthis 14th annual fundraising (and fun-raising) event. 100% of the ticket cost and silentauction proceeds support the volunteer-fueled Whale Festival, now in its 26th year!Tickets for the dinner and wine pairing are an amazingly great value at $110/person.Tofino, Mar 15 (www.wickinn.com)

ALM WORKSHOPSThe ALM Organic Farm (Sooke, BC) is offering a great series of spring workshops: SaladThroughout the Seasons on Mar 19, an Edible/Medicinal Herb Walk on Mar 20, GrowAmazing Tomatoes on Mar 26, and Plant Propagation on Apr 16. Classes are $40 - $55per person. For complete class details and to register, visit www.almfarms.org

CULINAIREThe third annual Culinaire event will provide Victorians the opportunity to savoursignature menu items and inspired dishes from an abundant selection of restaurants,lounges, pubs, cafes, specialty food producers, and sip from a fine selection of local andregional wines and craft beers. Proceeds benefit the annual scholarship program atCamosun College’s Culinary Arts Program. Mar 22. For full event details and a cur-rent list of who will be presenting visit www.culinairevictoria.com.

A TASTE OF ARGENTINA AT PAPRKIA BISTROWine pairing dinner featuring wines from Argentina. Mar 27. $35 per person. For moreinformation, contact Geoff Parker [email protected]

6TH ANNUAL DINING OUT FOR LIFEOn Mar 29, restaurants across Vancouver Island will donate 25% of their food rev-enues to AIDS Vancouver Island. Vancouver Island support for Dining Out For Lifecontinues to grow, alongside the Vancouver and Whistler areas, as do the numbers ofparticipating restaurant. Visit www.diningoutforlife.com for a list of participatingrestaurants.

Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead

the concierge desk by Rebecca BaugnietFor more events visit www.eatmagazine.ca

www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 7

APRILFRENCH WINE SCHOLAR COURSE

Take your passion for French wines to a new level with an in-depth 8-week course thatexplores the history and terroir of French wine regions. Students will have the op-portunity to taste many unique wines not currently available on the island and the op-tion to write a final exam to become a certified French Wine Scholar. This class is idealfor anyone currently pursuing Sommelier or WSET Diploma designations. Classes runfor nine weeks Mondays in Vancouver and Wednesdays in Victoria from Apr 2 or Apr4. (www.winecollege.ca, www.frenchwinesociety.org or call/email Mark [email protected] 1-800-667-7288 to register)

CALIFORNIA WINE FAIR 2011

Now in its 31st year of touring across Canada, the 2011 California Wine Fair boasts 350wines from 100 wineries throughout the Golden State. All under one roof, the rangeof wines includes products currently available in the market to new vintages and va-rietals that have yet to be released in the Canadian market. 600 guests sample wines,and bid on silent auction items including many of the hard-to-find wines featured atthe tasting. Apr 18 at the Vancouver Trade and Convention Centre. $65.(www.artsclub.com/events)

KAMLOOPS WINE FESTIVAL

Celebrate wine in all kinds of ways! The Kamloops Wine Festival (Apr 5-13) will hostseminars, tastings, and special dinners paired with excellent wines will be featured atmany of the best local restaurants. The festival culminates with the Consumer WineTasting at the Kamloops Convention Centre on Apr 13. More details to follow closerto the event. (www.kag.bc.ca)

UNCORK YOUR PALATE

A very special evening of wine, food and music at Victoria’s historic Crystal Garden,to benefit the Victoria Conservatory of Music. Participating restaurants and catererswill serve a sampling of hors d’oeuvres and appetizers, paired with fine wines from theNaramata Bench Wineries. Meet the winemakers and be the first to taste Naramata’sSpring Release wines. Bid on wines and other exciting packages at the silent and liveauctions. Apr 26. Tickets: $95. Tickets will be available online at TicketRocket at tick-etrocket.org/Uncork and at the Victoria Conservatory of Music 250-386-5311 Toll free1-866-386-5311. (www.vcm.bc.ca/calendars/uncork-your-palate)

OTTAVIO ANNUAL BIG CHEESE CUT

Come see the kitchen boys and girls of Ottavio cut the largest wheels of cheese madein the world today. Watch as they crack, cut and slice their way through the world’soldest cheeses. Learn about the animals and families that have produced these beau-ties for generations. Taste the history and tradition of the cheese making craft. Theywill be starting with some smaller wheels of artisan cheeses from Quebec and movethrough to the Italian king, Parmigiano Reggiano, and up to the 225 kg behemoth, theorganic, Swiss mountain Emmenthal. Samplings and specials on all cheeses cut. Agreat free event for the whole family. Apr 28 11.30 am - 1pm.

APRILANNUAL LUND SHELLFISH FESTIVAL

From May 26 - 28, the shores of Lund Harbour are transformed into an outdoor fes-tival boasting food vendors selling a variety of freshly cooked oysters, clams, mussels,prawns, and other delights. Festivities include a Chowder Challenge, live music, craftbooths, shellfish sales, art shows, free cooking demonstrations, BC’s Best Oysters Com-petition, contests, and kids’ play area. Sign up for a cruise of the nearby islands or aclam dig at Savary Island. Lund’s Shellfish Festival is handicap accessible and all wasteis recycled (no garbage is produced). More information is available at www.lundbc.ca.

MARCH2012 VANCOUVER PLAYHOUSE INTERNATIONAL WINE FESTIVAL The Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival is one of the biggest and oldestwine events in the world, offering something for every level of wine drinker, collectorand trade professional. Winery principals (winemaker, proprietor, senior executive)from selected wineries and countries will be in attendance to pour and discuss theirwines from Feb 27-- Mar 4.

GROWING FOOD IN THE CITY – ROYAL ROADS COURSE If you are concerned about where your food comes from, what’s in it (or on it), or sim-ply getting the best nutrition possible for your family – growing your own vegetablesand fruit is the answer. In this unique and timely course you will learn essential per-maculture and organic gardening techniques. This practical, hands-on course is opento everyone, no prior education or gardening experience required. Mar 3 – Sep 22.(www.royalroads.ca/continuing-studies)

ARTISAN COFFEE PAIRING MENU AT DEERHOLME FARMBill Jones will be working with Drumroaster Coffee to create a menu that showcasesthe flavour and creativity of premium coffee beans from a variety of origins. Dishes willinclude an Island Aged Farm house cheese ball with an espresso balsamic syrup and aCoffee cured Sockeye salmon gravlox with marinated king oyster mushroom, freshherb salad. $90/person (plus HST) Call 250 748�7450 for more information. Duncan,Mar 10. 5 - 9pm. (www.deerholme.com)

PICA SPRING BREAK TEEN CULINARY BOOT CAMP Spring break teen camp 2012 is all about learning the basics in Culinary, Baking &Pastry Arts. Teens will learn the importance of proper food (Food Safe) and equipmenthandling, knife skills and cleanliness in the kitchen while cooking and enjoying theirclass creations. Includes all supplies and ingredients and Pacific Institute of CulinaryArts' logo apron. Vancouver, Mar 12-16. $450.

PACIFIC RIM WHALE FESTIVAL GALA DINNER AND SILENT AUCTIONChef Nick Nutting and the kitchen brigade at the Wickaninnish Inn cook up somemagic, as wine pairings and tempting silent auction items complement the evening forthis 14th annual fundraising (and fun-raising) event. 100% of the ticket cost and silentauction proceeds support the volunteer-fueled Whale Festival, now in its 26th year!Tickets for the dinner and wine pairing are an amazingly great value at $110/person.Tofino, Mar 15 (www.wickinn.com)

ALM WORKSHOPSThe ALM Organic Farm (Sooke, BC) is offering a great series of spring workshops: SaladThroughout the Seasons on Mar 19, an Edible/Medicinal Herb Walk on Mar 20, GrowAmazing Tomatoes on Mar 26, and Plant Propagation on Apr 16. Classes are $40 - $55per person. For complete class details and to register, visit www.almfarms.org

CULINAIREThe third annual Culinaire event will provide Victorians the opportunity to savoursignature menu items and inspired dishes from an abundant selection of restaurants,lounges, pubs, cafes, specialty food producers, and sip from a fine selection of local andregional wines and craft beers. Proceeds benefit the annual scholarship program atCamosun College’s Culinary Arts Program. Mar 22. For full event details and a cur-rent list of who will be presenting visit www.culinairevictoria.com.

A TASTE OF ARGENTINA AT PAPRKIA BISTROWine pairing dinner featuring wines from Argentina. Mar 27. $35 per person. For moreinformation, contact Geoff Parker [email protected]

6TH ANNUAL DINING OUT FOR LIFEOn Mar 29, restaurants across Vancouver Island will donate 25% of their food rev-enues to AIDS Vancouver Island. Vancouver Island support for Dining Out For Lifecontinues to grow, alongside the Vancouver and Whistler areas, as do the numbers ofparticipating restaurant. Visit www.diningoutforlife.com for a list of participatingrestaurants.

Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead

the concierge desk by Rebecca BaugnietFor more events visit www.eatmagazine.ca

8 EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012 www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012

food matters — by Julie Pegg

Well-OiledSeldom are there fewer than a dozen culinary oils in my pantry. On handcurrently are five olive oils—a fruity Spanish one, a zippy New Zealand drop, one fromCalifornia’s Olive Pit, an organic lovely from Australia and a coveted extra virgin first-pressed vintage Tuscan oil from Laudemio. Add to the inventory hazelnut oil, walnutoil, lobster oil and, to the abhorrence of Gordon Ramsay and other noted chefs (werethey to know), truffle oil. Also in the portfolio, tea and grapeseed oils for their highsmoke point, canola oil and, finally, an everyday good quality olive oil.Never one for margarine, commercial salad dressings or butter (save non-salted, high

quality French, or local artisan-made butters), I nurture a passion for flavourful saladand cooking oils. As well as being packed with intense flavours, many culinary oils arecholesterol- and heart-friendly, too. (Calorie counters should take note, however. Theyall clock in around a hundred units per tablespoon.)Olive oil, the study of which can be as intricate as learning about wine, varies

immensely in quality and flavour—far too involved to discuss in this space. As well,production can be subject to nefarious dealings. (I refer here to the trade in adulter-ated olive oil. [“Slippery Business,” The New Yorker, August 13, 2007.] While some stepshave been taken to curb the illegal trade, it does continue.). So I’ll keep it simple. Basic olive oil should taste clean, not too viscous and be low

in acidity. Spanish or Greek oils are often fine value for everyday use. Ten dollarsrewards me with a litre of oil—enough for several weeks’ cooking for two. I find littleneed to lug a three-litre tin home from the shop unless I plan to chuck it into the potby the cupful. I shell out, instead, for two or three small bottles of artisan “finishing”oils—a tangy herbaceous one for greens, a viscous and peppery one for drizzling ontomatoes, vegetables and cheeses and robust oil for napping wild mushroom pastas orgrilled meats.For Caesar salad, I cut virgin olive oil with canola or sunflower oil. I find an all olive

oil dressing too heavy. Just like tasting wine, however, it’s each to their own. To helpwith your preferences and opinions, seek advice from a reputable vendor. Gourmetshops should have knowledgeable staff and offer olive oil samples. Attending an oliveoil seminar/tasting is worth every penny. If you intend to infuse olive oil with herbs,chilis or citrus peel, ensure those ingredients are completely bone-dry to avoid bacte-ria growth. I advise against garlic-infused oil due to the bulb’s tendency to turn oilquickly rancid.Hazelnut (filbert) and walnut oils are the Chanel of salad oils and priced accord-

ingly. Gleaned from the roasted nut, these oils are rich and, of course, beautifullynutty yet delicate. Fortunately, as with expensive perfume, less is more. Dabbing theseessences on a humble cream of cauliflower soup, a salad of baby arugula and radicchio,roasted golden beets or into cookie and cake batters adds an exquisite nuance. Theseoils are also recommended for drizzling over grilled fish and meat as well as pasta,though I stay mostly with olive oil for this fillip.The chemical compound 2,4-dithiapentane, when mixed with olive oil, emulates

the earthy taste of truffle. Hence the disdain from Gordon Ramsay and contempo-raries who feel such laboratory fiddling demoralizes the noble nugget and becausetoo many resort to splashing the stuff willy-nilly over everything. Labelling theconcoction truffle oil merely adds insult to injury. Hastening to the fridge to inspectmy black and white truffle oils, I read that they are “infused with real truffles” (whichis what you need to look for—in addition to the eye-popping price tag). I will continueto curl up in front of a movie with truffle-oil anointed popcorn, but can at least do itnow guilt-free.No chemical tricks exist in the production of Vancouver-based Olive and Ciboulette

lobster oil. Cannery chef Frederic Couton processes “Nova Scotia lobster, vegetableoils, herbs and spices” into beautiful essence of lobster. I love to toss a wee bit over aseafood chowder or bisque.Most specialty oils are best used sparingly and stored in the fridge (the lobster oil gets

the freeze) to avoid spoilage. They cloud over but soon clear at room temperature.I’ve been thinking of adding coconut oil to my portfolio, and perhaps avocado orpossibly pumpkin seed, or even pistachio, that is if I can find room in my fridge.Check out www.tourangelle.com for a very fine array of artisan oils. More information

on lobster oil can be found at www.oliveciboulette.com.

Rhubarb Days

Any day now, take a peek out the window. If there’s rhubarb, it’s jumping out ofthe ground like a weed. In our garden, it billows aggressively among timber bamboo,New Zealand flax and purple azaleas, a gangling, oversized mop of leaves oncherry-red stilts. Rhubarb has always been a wallflower. If anyone has ever said anything brilliant or memorable about it, you tell me.

Unlike spinach or broccoli, it hasn’t been treated as worthy of abuse. Rhubarboriginated in Asia, probably northern China. The Chinese lumped it in with medicinesand for 6,000 years relegated it to the unromantic role of purgative.It reached the West about 2,000 years ago, its name bearing further insult: it derives

from the Latin Rhabarbarian, or “Rha of the Barbarians,” the river of the barbarianswho cultivated it. The Romans accepted rhubarb with little enthusiasm, and not eventhe normally verbose Pliny had anything cunning to say about it. Yet it was as good a traveller as any. The intrepid Marco Polo noticed the Chinese

exporting it. The Arabs and Persians imported it and were—the omnivorous Chinesehaving missed the point—the first to cultivate it as food. It reached Western Europeby the Middle Ages, but as a dried root, probably used as a demon repellant. Europehad no clue it could be eaten or even what it looked like in its natural form. When the Spaniard Magellan circumnavigated the world, his chronicler, the

sublimely named Antonio Pigafetta, wrote that he had found it in Siam and that it was“a large, rotted tree” whose “wood is the rhubarb.” Pigafetta ran with this nonsense:“Twenty or twenty-five men gather together,” he waxed, “and they go into the forest,and when night falls, they climb into the trees, as much to catch the scent of therhubarb as fear of the lions, elephants and other wild animals.” The English, of all people, were the first to contemplate eating it, even if they started

with the leaves. But rhubarb leaves contain oxalic acid, rendering the plant thoroughlyunpalatable and theoretically deadly. The 19th-century cleric Augustus Hare, punishedfor succumbing to the “carnal indulgences” of a lollipop, was forced to consume amix of rhubarb and soda.The plant as we know it arrived in Europe and the Americas between 18l5 and 1830.

The French sniffed at it. Dumas did not even mention it in his Grand Dictionnaire deCuisine. The astute Larousse Gastronomique was positively dim-witted when it grudg-ingly acknowledged “some species ... cultivated as food plants.” During World War I,Americans consumed its leaves as a vegetable supplement; there were many poison-ings. The French still haven’t much to do with it. The English, the Scandinavians, the

Dutch and the Germans do, and the Italians use it to concoct an aperitif, the bitter-sweet Rabarbaro Zucca, a rhubarb-flavoured bitter. The U.S. contribution is the annualRhubarb Festival, held every May, deliriously, in Intercourse, Pennsylvania.Nowadays rhubarb can get by on healthiness: the tender, sour stalk is a magic wand

of phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, iron and vitamins. Along with such elixirs asgarlic and fatty fish, it has been revealed as a cholesterol exorcist. It contains only 16calories per 100 grams, as long as you forget the alps of sugar we heap on it. Yet somehow, we haven’t really given rhubarb a stellar turn. It has to be more than

the lower half of a strawberry-rhubarb pie. Instead of smothering it in sugar, we shouldembrace its sour disposition and turn it to our advantage. What would you say to a rhubarb margarita? Or rhubarb soup? What of tart rhubarb

sorbet as a palate clearer? Or a sauce for fowl, game birds, veal, venison, pork andbetter still, a fatty roast duck? In a day or two, I’ll plunder the garden in pursuit of slender, tender, pink young

stalks with aromatic, delicate-tasting flesh. (Don’t leave it until the last: older, thickerstalks display a coarse, watery consistency and formidable acidity levels). I’ll pick it all:the surplus freezes well, a sharp-tasting treat for the dull winter months.My wife—chef to my bumbling busboy—goes local, smoking a rack of Tannadice

Farms pork from the Comox Valley in her Delta, B.C.-made Bradley Smoker andsaucing it in rhubarb to counter the sweetness of the flesh. But I like it best when shepartners it with lightly seared, pan-fried Quebec foie gras. Does she know how tobalance the acid: she bathes the rhubarb in ice wine. And the wallflower turns into aprincess.

epicure at large — by Jeremy Ferguson

Ignored and misunderstood down through the ages,it’s time for rhubarb to take centre stage.

OB 5027 Oak Bay Marine GroupEat Magazine 4.375" x 9.8125"prepared July 28, 2010

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Just one of the stories

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Stunning Views Lunch • Dinner • Sushi • Sunday Brunch


food matters — by Julie Pegg

Well-OiledSeldom are there fewer than a dozen culinary oils in my pantry. On handcurrently are five olive oils—a fruity Spanish one, a zippy New Zealand drop, one fromCalifornia’s Olive Pit, an organic lovely from Australia and a coveted extra virgin first-pressed vintage Tuscan oil from Laudemio. Add to the inventory hazelnut oil, walnutoil, lobster oil and, to the abhorrence of Gordon Ramsay and other noted chefs (werethey to know), truffle oil. Also in the portfolio, tea and grapeseed oils for their highsmoke point, canola oil and, finally, an everyday good quality olive oil.Never one for margarine, commercial salad dressings or butter (save non-salted, high

quality French, or local artisan-made butters), I nurture a passion for flavourful saladand cooking oils. As well as being packed with intense flavours, many culinary oils arecholesterol- and heart-friendly, too. (Calorie counters should take note, however. Theyall clock in around a hundred units per tablespoon.)Olive oil, the study of which can be as intricate as learning about wine, varies

immensely in quality and flavour—far too involved to discuss in this space. As well,production can be subject to nefarious dealings. (I refer here to the trade in adulter-ated olive oil. [“Slippery Business,” The New Yorker, August 13, 2007.] While some stepshave been taken to curb the illegal trade, it does continue.). So I’ll keep it simple. Basic olive oil should taste clean, not too viscous and be low

in acidity. Spanish or Greek oils are often fine value for everyday use. Ten dollarsrewards me with a litre of oil—enough for several weeks’ cooking for two. I find littleneed to lug a three-litre tin home from the shop unless I plan to chuck it into the potby the cupful. I shell out, instead, for two or three small bottles of artisan “finishing”oils—a tangy herbaceous one for greens, a viscous and peppery one for drizzling ontomatoes, vegetables and cheeses and robust oil for napping wild mushroom pastas orgrilled meats.For Caesar salad, I cut virgin olive oil with canola or sunflower oil. I find an all olive

oil dressing too heavy. Just like tasting wine, however, it’s each to their own. To helpwith your preferences and opinions, seek advice from a reputable vendor. Gourmetshops should have knowledgeable staff and offer olive oil samples. Attending an oliveoil seminar/tasting is worth every penny. If you intend to infuse olive oil with herbs,chilis or citrus peel, ensure those ingredients are completely bone-dry to avoid bacte-ria growth. I advise against garlic-infused oil due to the bulb’s tendency to turn oilquickly rancid.Hazelnut (filbert) and walnut oils are the Chanel of salad oils and priced accord-

ingly. Gleaned from the roasted nut, these oils are rich and, of course, beautifullynutty yet delicate. Fortunately, as with expensive perfume, less is more. Dabbing theseessences on a humble cream of cauliflower soup, a salad of baby arugula and radicchio,roasted golden beets or into cookie and cake batters adds an exquisite nuance. Theseoils are also recommended for drizzling over grilled fish and meat as well as pasta,though I stay mostly with olive oil for this fillip.The chemical compound 2,4-dithiapentane, when mixed with olive oil, emulates

the earthy taste of truffle. Hence the disdain from Gordon Ramsay and contempo-raries who feel such laboratory fiddling demoralizes the noble nugget and becausetoo many resort to splashing the stuff willy-nilly over everything. Labelling theconcoction truffle oil merely adds insult to injury. Hastening to the fridge to inspectmy black and white truffle oils, I read that they are “infused with real truffles” (whichis what you need to look for—in addition to the eye-popping price tag). I will continueto curl up in front of a movie with truffle-oil anointed popcorn, but can at least do itnow guilt-free.No chemical tricks exist in the production of Vancouver-based Olive and Ciboulette

lobster oil. Cannery chef Frederic Couton processes “Nova Scotia lobster, vegetableoils, herbs and spices” into beautiful essence of lobster. I love to toss a wee bit over aseafood chowder or bisque.Most specialty oils are best used sparingly and stored in the fridge (the lobster oil gets

the freeze) to avoid spoilage. They cloud over but soon clear at room temperature.I’ve been thinking of adding coconut oil to my portfolio, and perhaps avocado orpossibly pumpkin seed, or even pistachio, that is if I can find room in my fridge.Check out www.tourangelle.com for a very fine array of artisan oils. More information

on lobster oil can be found at www.oliveciboulette.com.

Rhubarb Days

Any day now, take a peek out the window. If there’s rhubarb, it’s jumping out ofthe ground like a weed. In our garden, it billows aggressively among timber bamboo,New Zealand flax and purple azaleas, a gangling, oversized mop of leaves oncherry-red stilts. Rhubarb has always been a wallflower. If anyone has ever said anything brilliant or memorable about it, you tell me.

Unlike spinach or broccoli, it hasn’t been treated as worthy of abuse. Rhubarboriginated in Asia, probably northern China. The Chinese lumped it in with medicinesand for 6,000 years relegated it to the unromantic role of purgative.It reached the West about 2,000 years ago, its name bearing further insult: it derives

from the Latin Rhabarbarian, or “Rha of the Barbarians,” the river of the barbarianswho cultivated it. The Romans accepted rhubarb with little enthusiasm, and not eventhe normally verbose Pliny had anything cunning to say about it. Yet it was as good a traveller as any. The intrepid Marco Polo noticed the Chinese

exporting it. The Arabs and Persians imported it and were—the omnivorous Chinesehaving missed the point—the first to cultivate it as food. It reached Western Europeby the Middle Ages, but as a dried root, probably used as a demon repellant. Europehad no clue it could be eaten or even what it looked like in its natural form. When the Spaniard Magellan circumnavigated the world, his chronicler, the

sublimely named Antonio Pigafetta, wrote that he had found it in Siam and that it was“a large, rotted tree” whose “wood is the rhubarb.” Pigafetta ran with this nonsense:“Twenty or twenty-five men gather together,” he waxed, “and they go into the forest,and when night falls, they climb into the trees, as much to catch the scent of therhubarb as fear of the lions, elephants and other wild animals.” The English, of all people, were the first to contemplate eating it, even if they started

with the leaves. But rhubarb leaves contain oxalic acid, rendering the plant thoroughlyunpalatable and theoretically deadly. The 19th-century cleric Augustus Hare, punishedfor succumbing to the “carnal indulgences” of a lollipop, was forced to consume amix of rhubarb and soda.The plant as we know it arrived in Europe and the Americas between 18l5 and 1830.

The French sniffed at it. Dumas did not even mention it in his Grand Dictionnaire deCuisine. The astute Larousse Gastronomique was positively dim-witted when it grudg-ingly acknowledged “some species ... cultivated as food plants.” During World War I,Americans consumed its leaves as a vegetable supplement; there were many poison-ings. The French still haven’t much to do with it. The English, the Scandinavians, the

Dutch and the Germans do, and the Italians use it to concoct an aperitif, the bitter-sweet Rabarbaro Zucca, a rhubarb-flavoured bitter. The U.S. contribution is the annualRhubarb Festival, held every May, deliriously, in Intercourse, Pennsylvania.Nowadays rhubarb can get by on healthiness: the tender, sour stalk is a magic wand

of phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, iron and vitamins. Along with such elixirs asgarlic and fatty fish, it has been revealed as a cholesterol exorcist. It contains only 16calories per 100 grams, as long as you forget the alps of sugar we heap on it. Yet somehow, we haven’t really given rhubarb a stellar turn. It has to be more than

the lower half of a strawberry-rhubarb pie. Instead of smothering it in sugar, we shouldembrace its sour disposition and turn it to our advantage. What would you say to a rhubarb margarita? Or rhubarb soup? What of tart rhubarb

sorbet as a palate clearer? Or a sauce for fowl, game birds, veal, venison, pork andbetter still, a fatty roast duck? In a day or two, I’ll plunder the garden in pursuit of slender, tender, pink young

stalks with aromatic, delicate-tasting flesh. (Don’t leave it until the last: older, thickerstalks display a coarse, watery consistency and formidable acidity levels). I’ll pick it all:the surplus freezes well, a sharp-tasting treat for the dull winter months.My wife—chef to my bumbling busboy—goes local, smoking a rack of Tannadice

Farms pork from the Comox Valley in her Delta, B.C.-made Bradley Smoker andsaucing it in rhubarb to counter the sweetness of the flesh. But I like it best when shepartners it with lightly seared, pan-fried Quebec foie gras. Does she know how tobalance the acid: she bathes the rhubarb in ice wine. And the wallflower turns into aprincess.

epicure at large — by Jeremy Ferguson

Ignored and misunderstood down through the ages,it’s time for rhubarb to take centre stage.

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www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 201210 EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012

Four locations to serve you

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Share your story and win! facebook.com/metroliquorstores

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For the past three years, chef Jena Stewart’s tiny, Broughton Street bistro, Devour,has been one of Victoria’s best-kept culinary secrets. She has a devoted clientele, butwith room for only 12 to 14 diners inside and four more outside when the weatherpermits, fans of Stewart’s cooking are torn between keeping Devour a secret andraving about her culinary magic.“I wanted to create a small restaurant which would allow a different menu daily.

Equally important was to insure quality as well as to get to know the majority of ourcustomers really well.”I caught up with her in New Mexico, where she was enjoying a well-earned winter

vacation, and asked her how she got started.“In a butcher-baker establishment in a small Ontario town at age 12. It was work-

ing there, in this German eatery, that I found my love of scratch baking and the art ofbutchery. I discovered my passion for food at a young age.”Stewart studied at Dubrulle International Culinary Arts in Vancouver and The

Culinary Arts School of Ontario in Mississauga before working in numerous kitchensover the years. She cites time spent working in kitchens at D’Jango in Philadelphia, theArt Gallery of Ontario and Sooke Harbour House as highlights prior to opening Devour.“They were all inspiring and wonderful places to cook; however, I have to say my

favourite place was cooking on a woodstove at a fishing/hunting resort on theNaramata Bench,” Stewart explains, adding, “I’m inspired and influenced bypassionate people who I can collaborate with to create interesting and delicious dishes.It takes more than one person to put food on the plate.”Another passion for Jena Stewart is teaching. “Combining cooking and teaching is

definitely in my future!” she says with enthusiasm.Chef Stewart’s cooking philosophy is based on fresh, local and seasonal sources, and

Devour’s walls are lined with cookbooks from various cultures. The daily menufeaturing half a dozen main items reflects this international approach and alwaysincludes a vegetarian dish. I’ve enjoyed the Moroccan chicken stew with phyllo flake,halibut ceviche on endive, braised short ribs and grilled flatiron steak topped withStilton cottage cheese. The soups and sandwiches are always a treat. My favouritelunch items are the brie bacon pesto sandwich and the duck salad rolls. Stewart’sdesserts and baking are delicious—and adventurous too. Don’t miss the pecan pralineice cream sandwich, the cherry ricotta tart and the lemon polenta cake. Her lemonstrawberry muffins are addictive.“I try to challenge myself daily to find and use ingredients that are not common,”

Stewart explains. “I find myself constantly researching and reading to learn as muchas I can about different cuisines. A dream is to travel and explore different areas of theworld so I can expand my knowledge and experience. Owning a restaurant makes thatdifficult! One day …” 762 Broughton Street, Victoria, BC (250) 590-3231 www.devour.ca

Devour’s Jena StewartHer tiny bistro delivers big, bold flavours and uncommon ingredients.

chef profile — by Joseph BlakeRebecca W

ellman


Four locations to serve you

Victoria: University Heights Mall, Tuscany Village, Brentwood Bay | Kelowna: Downtown Cultural District | metroliquor.com

Share your story and win! facebook.com/metroliquorstores

twitter.com/metroliquor

Make your next group dinner one to remember

463 Belleville Street, Victoria BC

Enjoy award winning

food while presenting

your next great idea.

Let us help you

make your Mark.

Call 250-380-4458 to

make a reservation.

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For the past three years, chef Jena Stewart’s tiny, Broughton Street bistro, Devour,has been one of Victoria’s best-kept culinary secrets. She has a devoted clientele, butwith room for only 12 to 14 diners inside and four more outside when the weatherpermits, fans of Stewart’s cooking are torn between keeping Devour a secret andraving about her culinary magic.“I wanted to create a small restaurant which would allow a different menu daily.

Equally important was to insure quality as well as to get to know the majority of ourcustomers really well.”I caught up with her in New Mexico, where she was enjoying a well-earned winter

vacation, and asked her how she got started.“In a butcher-baker establishment in a small Ontario town at age 12. It was work-

ing there, in this German eatery, that I found my love of scratch baking and the art ofbutchery. I discovered my passion for food at a young age.”Stewart studied at Dubrulle International Culinary Arts in Vancouver and The

Culinary Arts School of Ontario in Mississauga before working in numerous kitchensover the years. She cites time spent working in kitchens at D’Jango in Philadelphia, theArt Gallery of Ontario and Sooke Harbour House as highlights prior to opening Devour.“They were all inspiring and wonderful places to cook; however, I have to say my

favourite place was cooking on a woodstove at a fishing/hunting resort on theNaramata Bench,” Stewart explains, adding, “I’m inspired and influenced bypassionate people who I can collaborate with to create interesting and delicious dishes.It takes more than one person to put food on the plate.”Another passion for Jena Stewart is teaching. “Combining cooking and teaching is

definitely in my future!” she says with enthusiasm.Chef Stewart’s cooking philosophy is based on fresh, local and seasonal sources, and

Devour’s walls are lined with cookbooks from various cultures. The daily menufeaturing half a dozen main items reflects this international approach and alwaysincludes a vegetarian dish. I’ve enjoyed the Moroccan chicken stew with phyllo flake,halibut ceviche on endive, braised short ribs and grilled flatiron steak topped withStilton cottage cheese. The soups and sandwiches are always a treat. My favouritelunch items are the brie bacon pesto sandwich and the duck salad rolls. Stewart’sdesserts and baking are delicious—and adventurous too. Don’t miss the pecan pralineice cream sandwich, the cherry ricotta tart and the lemon polenta cake. Her lemonstrawberry muffins are addictive.“I try to challenge myself daily to find and use ingredients that are not common,”

Stewart explains. “I find myself constantly researching and reading to learn as muchas I can about different cuisines. A dream is to travel and explore different areas of theworld so I can expand my knowledge and experience. Owning a restaurant makes thatdifficult! One day …” 762 Broughton Street, Victoria, BC (250) 590-3231 www.devour.ca

Devour’s Jena StewartHer tiny bistro delivers big, bold flavours and uncommon ingredients.

chef profile — by Joseph Blake

Rebecca Wellm

an


Fresh fava beans are a spring treatwith a sweet taste and a butterytexture. Known throughout history asthe “poor man’s meat,” they arepacked with protein, fibre and iron.Almost every country around theworld has a unique way of fixing favas.Ancient Romans adored them and con-sidered them an aphrodisiac. (Theirname comes from the Italian wordfava, meaning “broad bean.”) They arestill a beloved Italian ingredient, pairedwith pecorino cheese, escarole,artichokes, pancetta or other favouriteItalian ingredients in pasta and seafooddishes, soups and salads. Favas arewidely consumed across Europe, theMiddle East, Latin America and Asia.Check out Italian, Iranian, Egyptian,Greek, Portuguese, Mexican and NorthAfrican fava bean recipes. March is the time to plant fava beans

for a June harvest. The plants are easy to grow, although they do attract aphids. As longas you commit to a daily aphid-squishing schedule, you can grow them successfully.Fresh favas are a rare commodity in our region. In March, Fairway Market on QuadraStreet and the Root Cellar on McKenzie Avenue carry California-grown beans; in Juneand July Fairway sells favas grown on the Mainland. Scour local farmer’s markets inJune and July for fresh fava pods. You’ll need about two pounds of pods to getapproximately two-thirds of a pound of fresh shelled beans.These broad beans grow inside long, pale green pods. Harvest or purchase svelte

pods containing pea-size beans. Bulging pods that are bursting at the seams willcontain bitter, mealy tasting beans. To prepare them, string the pods, remove thebeans, blanch them in salted water for a minute, and pinch off their waxy skins. Frozen favas are widely available and can be substituted for fresh in any recipe.

Canned cooked favas are convenient for making dishes such as fava pâté (a Lebanesedip similar to hummus) and fava bean pesto. Dried favas must be soaked overnightbefore use.The best way to enjoy the ultimate in fresh fava flavour is to grow them yourself, so

you can eat the tender young things raw, tossed in vinaigrette. They taste like theessence of spring.

get fresh COOKING BY THE SEASON — by Sylvia Weinstock

Fab Favas

1 Tbsp olive oil1 cup chopped andouille sausage 1/4 cup chopped onions 1 cup fresh (or frozen and thawed) favabeans, blanched and peeled1/4 cup peeled, seeded, chopped Italianplum tomatoes1 Tbsp minced garlic1 Tbsp chopped fresh cilantroSalt and freshly ground black pepper totaste

In a large pan, heat oil over high heat. Addsausage and cook, stirring, until browned.Add onions and cook, stirring, 2 minutes.Add beans, tomatoes, garlic and cilantro,and sauté, stirring and shaking the panoccasionally, until beans are tender.Season with salt and pepper. Remove fromheat.

Fava Bean Andouille Sausage Relish This relish is a component of Emeril Lagasse’s Herb-Crusted Catfish with Tomato-

Fennel Vinaigrette (see foodnetwork.com).

They’re the essence of spring when popped from freshpods and drizzled with vinaigrette.

EAT magazine • March + April 2012 edition

good for you — by Pam Durkin

The Breakfast Club Does B.C. stand for best cereal? Unfortunately, not all breakfast cereals are worth breaking your fast for. If thatcereal flake you’re eating is derived from a genetically modified grain, contains toxicpesticide residues or is chock full of refined sugar and artificial flavours and colours,it’s hardly healthy—whole grain or not. The Cornucopia Institute, an American non-profit organization, recently tested several brands of cereal and found many containedhigh levels of GMOs (genetically modified organisms) and residue fromorganophosphate pesticides. Surprisingly, some of the worst offenders were brandsthat market themselves as “healthy” and “all-natural,” like Kashi (owned by Kellogg’s)and Barbara’s. So how do you find a truly healthy cereal and reap the benefits of regular cereal

consumption? If you live in B.C., the answer is simple—buy local. Several savvy B.C.companies are producing some of the healthiest and tastiest cereals on the market.Here are my top picks (in no particular order). Holy Crap —Despite the interesting moniker, the taste of this gluten-free, 100%

organic blend of chia, hemp, buckwheat, dried fruit and cinnamon made on theSunshine Coast is reminiscent of apple pie and so delicious you’ll forget just howhealthy it is. The tasty melange is protein and fibre rich and is an excellent source ofheart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids. In addition, mounting scientific evidence suggestschia, a chief component of the blend, can help reduce blood pressure andpro-inflammatory C-reactive protein. www.holycrap.caNew World Natural Food’s Organic Fruit Nut Muesli—I’ve always thought

of muesli as the ultimate “comfort food.” This Burnaby version of the famous Swisscereal is particularly scrumptious. It is a highly nutritious, 100% organic mix of oats,raisins, flax, nuts and seeds. Every ingredient is health-enhancing. Oats, for instance,can help you lower your cholesterol and blood sugar and reduce your risk for heartdisease and cancer. Traditionalists recommend soaking muesli overnight in butter-milk, and I concur. The tang of the buttermilk marries perfectly with the sweetness ofthe grain and raisins, rendering a healthful concoction that is the perfect start to anyday. www.newworldfoods.caThe Granola King’s Gourmet Granola—The quintessential West Coast break-

fast gets modernized by the King’s royal treatment. If you’ve shied away from gra-nola because of its tendency to be overly greasy and a tad too sweet, you need to trythis crunchy blend from North Vancouver’s Granola King. Each 750-gram bagcontains less than a third of a cup of unpasteurized honey and less than a third of acup of sunflower oil. And while there’s less sweetener and oil—there’s a lot more heart-healthy organic oats, unsulphured coconut, dried fruits, nuts and seeds. Anddelightfully, a smidgen of unsulphered blackstrap molasses to give this granola thatflavourful crunch we all love. www.thegranolaking.com Nature’s Path Smart Bran with Psyllium—This cereal is so therapeutic it

almost warrants a prescription. But unlike most things “medicinal” it’s oh-so-easy toget down. Most bran cereals have a texture and taste akin to sawdust—but Nature’sPath, whose home office is in Richmond, has formulated an exception to the rule.These slightly sweet, crunchy little nuggets have a malt-like flavour that combinedperfectly with the milk and medjool dates I paired them with. The combination oforganic oat and wheat bran with psyllium husk fibre is indeed a smart and strategicbreakfast that can help lower your cholesterol, treat constipation, regulate blood sugarand aid weight control. www.naturespath.com Anita’s Ancient Grains—This wheat-free cereal, made in Chilliwack, is chock full

of disease-fighting whole grains, seeds and fruit. And while it isn’t gluten-free, theonly gluten it contains comes in the form of spelt and kamut, two ancient grains witha much simpler form of gluten than wheat. Many wheat-intolerant individuals findthey can enjoy spelt and kamut without any GI disturbances. That’s good news becauseboth of these ancient grains are loaded with powerful antioxidants that can helpknockout chronic diseases such as heart disease and cancer. I enjoyed this paired withvanilla yogurt for breakfast and as a key ingredient in a delicious apple crumble.www.anitasorganic.com

Gary H

ynes


Fresh fava beans are a spring treatwith a sweet taste and a butterytexture. Known throughout history asthe “poor man’s meat,” they arepacked with protein, fibre and iron.Almost every country around theworld has a unique way of fixing favas.Ancient Romans adored them and con-sidered them an aphrodisiac. (Theirname comes from the Italian wordfava, meaning “broad bean.”) They arestill a beloved Italian ingredient, pairedwith pecorino cheese, escarole,artichokes, pancetta or other favouriteItalian ingredients in pasta and seafooddishes, soups and salads. Favas arewidely consumed across Europe, theMiddle East, Latin America and Asia.Check out Italian, Iranian, Egyptian,Greek, Portuguese, Mexican and NorthAfrican fava bean recipes. March is the time to plant fava beans

for a June harvest. The plants are easy to grow, although they do attract aphids. As longas you commit to a daily aphid-squishing schedule, you can grow them successfully.Fresh favas are a rare commodity in our region. In March, Fairway Market on QuadraStreet and the Root Cellar on McKenzie Avenue carry California-grown beans; in Juneand July Fairway sells favas grown on the Mainland. Scour local farmer’s markets inJune and July for fresh fava pods. You’ll need about two pounds of pods to getapproximately two-thirds of a pound of fresh shelled beans.These broad beans grow inside long, pale green pods. Harvest or purchase svelte

pods containing pea-size beans. Bulging pods that are bursting at the seams willcontain bitter, mealy tasting beans. To prepare them, string the pods, remove thebeans, blanch them in salted water for a minute, and pinch off their waxy skins. Frozen favas are widely available and can be substituted for fresh in any recipe.

Canned cooked favas are convenient for making dishes such as fava pâté (a Lebanesedip similar to hummus) and fava bean pesto. Dried favas must be soaked overnightbefore use.The best way to enjoy the ultimate in fresh fava flavour is to grow them yourself, so

you can eat the tender young things raw, tossed in vinaigrette. They taste like theessence of spring.

get fresh COOKING BY THE SEASON — by Sylvia Weinstock

Fab Favas

1 Tbsp olive oil1 cup chopped andouille sausage 1/4 cup chopped onions 1 cup fresh (or frozen and thawed) favabeans, blanched and peeled1/4 cup peeled, seeded, chopped Italianplum tomatoes1 Tbsp minced garlic1 Tbsp chopped fresh cilantroSalt and freshly ground black pepper totaste

In a large pan, heat oil over high heat. Addsausage and cook, stirring, until browned.Add onions and cook, stirring, 2 minutes.Add beans, tomatoes, garlic and cilantro,and sauté, stirring and shaking the panoccasionally, until beans are tender.Season with salt and pepper. Remove fromheat.

Fava Bean Andouille Sausage Relish This relish is a component of Emeril Lagasse’s Herb-Crusted Catfish with Tomato-

Fennel Vinaigrette (see foodnetwork.com).

They’re the essence of spring when popped from freshpods and drizzled with vinaigrette.

good for you — by Pam Durkin

The Breakfast Club Does B.C. stand for best cereal? Unfortunately, not all breakfast cereals are worth breaking your fast for. If thatcereal flake you’re eating is derived from a genetically modified grain, contains toxicpesticide residues or is chock full of refined sugar and artificial flavours and colours,it’s hardly healthy—whole grain or not. The Cornucopia Institute, an American non-profit organization, recently tested several brands of cereal and found many containedhigh levels of GMOs (genetically modified organisms) and residue fromorganophosphate pesticides. Surprisingly, some of the worst offenders were brandsthat market themselves as “healthy” and “all-natural,” like Kashi (owned by Kellogg’s)and Barbara’s. So how do you find a truly healthy cereal and reap the benefits of regular cereal

consumption? If you live in B.C., the answer is simple—buy local. Several savvy B.C.companies are producing some of the healthiest and tastiest cereals on the market.Here are my top picks (in no particular order). Holy Crap —Despite the interesting moniker, the taste of this gluten-free, 100%

organic blend of chia, hemp, buckwheat, dried fruit and cinnamon made on theSunshine Coast is reminiscent of apple pie and so delicious you’ll forget just howhealthy it is. The tasty melange is protein and fibre rich and is an excellent source ofheart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids. In addition, mounting scientific evidence suggestschia, a chief component of the blend, can help reduce blood pressure andpro-inflammatory C-reactive protein. www.holycrap.caNew World Natural Food’s Organic Fruit Nut Muesli—I’ve always thought

of muesli as the ultimate “comfort food.” This Burnaby version of the famous Swisscereal is particularly scrumptious. It is a highly nutritious, 100% organic mix of oats,raisins, flax, nuts and seeds. Every ingredient is health-enhancing. Oats, for instance,can help you lower your cholesterol and blood sugar and reduce your risk for heartdisease and cancer. Traditionalists recommend soaking muesli overnight in butter-milk, and I concur. The tang of the buttermilk marries perfectly with the sweetness ofthe grain and raisins, rendering a healthful concoction that is the perfect start to anyday. www.newworldfoods.caThe Granola King’s Gourmet Granola—The quintessential West Coast break-

fast gets modernized by the King’s royal treatment. If you’ve shied away from gra-nola because of its tendency to be overly greasy and a tad too sweet, you need to trythis crunchy blend from North Vancouver’s Granola King. Each 750-gram bagcontains less than a third of a cup of unpasteurized honey and less than a third of acup of sunflower oil. And while there’s less sweetener and oil—there’s a lot more heart-healthy organic oats, unsulphured coconut, dried fruits, nuts and seeds. Anddelightfully, a smidgen of unsulphered blackstrap molasses to give this granola thatflavourful crunch we all love. www.thegranolaking.com Nature’s Path Smart Bran with Psyllium—This cereal is so therapeutic it

almost warrants a prescription. But unlike most things “medicinal” it’s oh-so-easy toget down. Most bran cereals have a texture and taste akin to sawdust—but Nature’sPath, whose home office is in Richmond, has formulated an exception to the rule.These slightly sweet, crunchy little nuggets have a malt-like flavour that combinedperfectly with the milk and medjool dates I paired them with. The combination oforganic oat and wheat bran with psyllium husk fibre is indeed a smart and strategicbreakfast that can help lower your cholesterol, treat constipation, regulate blood sugarand aid weight control. www.naturespath.com Anita’s Ancient Grains—This wheat-free cereal, made in Chilliwack, is chock full

of disease-fighting whole grains, seeds and fruit. And while it isn’t gluten-free, theonly gluten it contains comes in the form of spelt and kamut, two ancient grains witha much simpler form of gluten than wheat. Many wheat-intolerant individuals findthey can enjoy spelt and kamut without any GI disturbances. That’s good news becauseboth of these ancient grains are loaded with powerful antioxidants that can helpknockout chronic diseases such as heart disease and cancer. I enjoyed this paired withvanilla yogurt for breakfast and as a key ingredient in a delicious apple crumble.www.anitasorganic.com

1001 Wharf Street @ BroughtonReservations: 250-380-2260

www.NauticalNelliesRestaurant.com

RAWBARSTEAK SEAFOOD

DINNERLUNCH PATIO

Serving VictoriaSince 1997

HCNUL

ictoriaServing VSince 1997

RENNID

OITAP

1102EXEXCELLLLENENCE

OFOFAWAWARDW

WiWine Spectatatoto

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KAETS


.NauticalNelliesRestaurant.comwww

RABWAR ES


.NauticalNelliesRestaurant.com

DOOFAE

Gary H

ynes

Plate of the Year

Steak Frites w/ red wine & shallot sauce & Roquefort butter - Brasserie l'école (VICTORIA)Wine marinated lamb popsicles in fenugreek creamcurry on turmeric and spinachpotatoes - Vij’s (VANCOUVER)Tie: Okanagan Cherry SpareRibs (Local Lounge) | Blackened Prime Rib(Ricardo’s MediterraneanKitchen) (OKANAGAN)

Restaurant of the YearBrasserie L’ecole (VICTORIA)Hawksworth (VANCOUVER)Local Lounge & Grille (OKANAGAN)

Restaurant Cooking LocalCamille’s (VICTORIA)Edible Canada (VANCOUVER)RauDZ Regional Table (OKANAGAN)

14 EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012

It’s the best restaurant in the city. Bar none. In

every way, every time - the best food, service,

and ambience. End of discussion.

You are still dreaming of it, pining for it,

talking about it.

What restaurant dish made that lasting

impression?

If it’s in season and local, it’s on the menu. This

eatery celebrates local ingredients on a grand

scale.

Readers’ Choice EXCEPTIONAL EATS! Awards

Readers weigh in with their food and drink choices. Where do we eat, shop and drink?

3rd Annual

WITH SO

MANY AMAZING

PLACES TO E

AT...

READERS A

RE

THE BIG

WINNERS

Left to right: Francois Boule—sous, David Mincey—owner, Stephen Drolet —chef, Lindsay Walker—Diningroom manager, Paige Robinson—owner, Katelyn Schoen, Tracy Nesom, Chris Stephens (missing: Carling Battistuzzi)

BEST RESTAURANT COOKING LOCAL: Camille’s

Rebecca W

ellman

let’s eat out


What was on your food and wine radar last year? Did you spot a trend? Did a newrestaurant, wine or beer catch your attention? Who was your food hero this year?Was there a website, tweeter or blogger that helped give you a deeper insight intothe food world? In other words, what were your Exceptional Eats! of 2011?To get the skinny on the gist EAT staff worked long into the night to come up

with 42 questions designed to reflect the year that was. Then, on January 1st thevirtual voting booth opened for a month. When the voting ended we tallied theresults and organized them into four groups: eating in, eating out, drinking and,lastly, giving credit to those who inspired us. Turns out we are a loyal and

competitive bunch and many results were close–and in some instances a tie hadto be declared. Due to space availability, we could only publish the top picks—thegold plated winners—in the magazine. But the top award winners don’t reflectthe whole picture so we decided to publish the runner-ups online. (To see thecomplete list of winners, go to the EAT website at eatmagazine.ca.) We think readers chose a glorious group and I, for one, will be very busy in 2012

using this list as a guide to many new and wonderful eating and drinkingexperiences. In our opinion there were no losers only winners as we all win byshining the spotlight on a vibrant local food community.

Awesome

Plate of the Year

Steak Frites w/ red wine & shallot sauce & Roquefort butter - Brasserie l'école (VICTORIA)Wine marinated lamb popsicles in fenugreek creamcurry on turmeric and spinachpotatoes - Vij’s (VANCOUVER)Tie: Okanagan Cherry SpareRibs (Local Lounge) | Blackened Prime Rib(Ricardo’s MediterraneanKitchen) (OKANAGAN)

Restaurant of the YearBrasserie L’ecole (VICTORIA)Hawksworth (VANCOUVER)Local Lounge & Grille (OKANAGAN)

Restaurant Cooking LocalCamille’s (VICTORIA)Edible Canada (VANCOUVER)RauDZ Regional Table (OKANAGAN)

It’s the best restaurant in the city. Bar none. In

every way, every time - the best food, service,

and ambience. End of discussion.

You are still dreaming of it, pining for it,

talking about it.

What restaurant dish made that lasting

impression?

If it’s in season and local, it’s on the menu. This

eatery celebrates local ingredients on a grand

scale. Not DowntownBistro at Merridale Cider (VICTORIA)The Pear Tree (VANCOUVER)Ricardo’s MediterraneanKitchen (OKANAGAN)

If you live in a big city, pick an eatery outside

of your city center that’s worth a special trip.

Place For Eats & CocktailsVenteto Tapa Lounge(VICTORIA)Joey Restaurants (VANCOUVER)RauDZ Regional Table(OKANAGAN)

Work is done for the day. Now for your re-

ward? drink (or two) and nibbles. Cinq à sept

becomes the happiest hours.

Under The RadarDaidoco (VICTORIA)Campagnolo Roma (VANCOUVER)The Real Things Pizza(OKANAGAN)

Give up the name of that eatery that you

adore and yet no one seems to know about.

Readers weigh in with their food and drink choices. Where do we eat, shop and drink?

Left to right: Francois Boule—sous, David Mincey—owner, Stephen Drolet —chef, Lindsay Walker—Diningroom manager, Paige Robinson—owner, Katelyn Schoen, Tracy Nesom, Chris Stephens (missing: Carling Battistuzzi)

BEST RESTAURANT COOKING LOCAL: Camille’sRebecca W

ellman

let’s eat out Keep Your ForkBrasserie L’ecole (VICTORIA)Cactus Club (VANCOUVER)Local Lounge & Grille(OKANAGAN)

Many diners just say no when it comes to

dessert. But we have plenty of talented pas-

try chefs working to rise above the tried and

true creme brule or molten chocolate cake.

Tell us who’s cultivating a more

sophisticated sweet tooth?


Dish Under $10Hernande'z Cocina (VICTORIA)La Taqueria (VANCOUVER)Mad Mango Cafe (OKANAGAN)

Max $10 and delicious and well made not too

much to ask, is it?

Best BurgerPink Bicycle (VICTORIA)Vera's Burger Shack (VANCOUVER)Burger 55 (OKANAGAN)

From the bar to the bistro and now top billing

at a few new hot haunts: the ubiquitous

burger. Who does it best?

Feeding Cart Frenzy Red Fish Blue Fish (VICTORIA)Japadog ( VANCOUVER)Jeffer’s Fryzz (OKANAGAN)

Great street food has never been easier to

find. At what food truck did you have a

really amazing feed?

Top ChefDan Hayes - The London Chef(VICTORIA)David Hawksworth -Hawksworth (VANCOUVER)Tie: Robert Cordonier - Hillside Bistro, Paul Cecconi -Local Lounge (OKANAGAN)

The dining scene is shining brighter than

ever and this chef is a large part of the

reason. Name your favourite local chef.

Wine List SmackdownStage (VICTORIA)Hawksworth (VANCOUVER)Local Lounge & Grille(OKANAGAN)

Do you like it comprehensive, educational,

big, or just beautiful? Which restaurant’s

wine menu dominates?

Place For Heathy EatingRebar (VICTORIA)The Naam (VANCOUVER)Poppadoms (OKANAGAN)

Rich foods abound these days.

Where do you go to give your body a break,

somewhere the food is both healthy

and delicious?

Place for LunchDevour (VICTORIA)Meat & Bread (VANCOUVER)The Bench Market (OKANAGAN)

Lunch is not really about replenishing energy

to get on with the workday. It is an event and

an excellent one at that.

Place to Feed a KidPizzeria Prima Strada (VICTORIA)White Spot (VANCOUVER)Boston Pizza (OKANAGAN)

Praise be to the eateries and restaurants

that have high chairs and servers who get

that kids are people who should go out to

eat, too.

Best Place To Eat Sustainable SeafoodRed Fish Blue Fish (VICTORIA)C Restaurant (VANCOUVER)Local Lounge & Grille (OKANAGAN)

Great restaurants that also serve a

sustainable catch deserve an EAT award.

At stake is the future of our oceans.

What was on your food and wine radar last year? Did you spot a trend? Did a newrestaurant, wine or beer catch your attention? Who was your food hero this year?Was there a website, tweeter or blogger that helped give you a deeper insight intothe food world? In other words, what were your Exceptional Eats! of 2011?To get the skinny on the gist EAT staff worked long into the night to come up

with 42 questions designed to reflect the year that was. Then, on January 1st thevirtual voting booth opened for a month. When the voting ended we tallied theresults and organized them into four groups: eating in, eating out, drinking and,lastly, giving credit to those who inspired us. Turns out we are a loyal and

competitive bunch and many results were close–and in some instances a tie hadto be declared. Due to space availability, we could only publish the top picks—thegold plated winners—in the magazine. But the top award winners don’t reflectthe whole picture so we decided to publish the runner-ups online. (To see thecomplete list of winners, go to the EAT website at eatmagazine.ca.) We think readers chose a glorious group and I, for one, will be very busy in 2012

using this list as a guide to many new and wonderful eating and drinkingexperiences. In our opinion there were no losers only winners as we all win byshining the spotlight on a vibrant local food community.


Heads UpsDriftwood Fat Tug IPA(VICTORIA)Granville Island English BayPale Ale (VANCOUVER)Naramata Nut Brown - Cannery Brewing (OKANAGAN)

Impress your out-of-town host with a bottle

of local beer. Name the local brew that has

real beer wonks foaming over?

let’s drink


Top BaristaStreet Level Espresso (VICTORIA)

Caffé Artigiano (VANCOUVER)Good Omens (OKANAGAN)

You bow to the bean and are always on the

prowl for the best macchiato, French press or

Ethiopian heirloom bean. Name your

favourite barista (or coffee shop) that keeps

you from going cold turkey.

It could be a farm stand, outdoor market or a store. Where do you go to buy your local, fresh and in-season food?

Best Selection of Specialty FoodsMarket on Yates ( VICTORIA)Whole Foods (VANCOUVER)Whole Foods (OKANAGAN)

Bread: one of life’s basic pleasures. And you

need flour to make bread, right? Whether it’s

whole wheat, organic, rye, rice, potato, or

buckwheat so many varieties, so many

options. Who has the best flour selection in

the city?

Ground ControlCaffe Fantastico ( VICTORIA)Forty Ninth Parallel CoffeeRoasters (VANCOUVER)Cherry Hill Coffee (OKANAGAN)

We want to know who’s bag of coffee beans

you grind at home for your cuppa joe.

Place for Craft BeerCascadia Liquor (VICTORIA)Firefly Fine Wines and Ales (VANCOUVER)Tie: Cannery Brewing, MetroLiquor (OKANAGAN)

IPA, wit, stout, Belgian, porter. Where doyou buy the best quality selection?

Spirited MomentVictoria Gin (VICTORIA)Victoria Gin (VANCOUVER)Okanagan Spirits (OKANAGAN)

Who gets you to raise your glass for making thebest local spirit?

What’s Old is New AgainClive’s (VICTORIA)Tie: Pourhouse Vancouver |The Diamond (VANCOUVER)RauDZ Regional Table(OKANAGAN)

Welcome back, gin & tonic; ciao, negroni;

bonjours,Sazerac. Old school drinks are one

of the hot new things on the cocktail scene.

Which bar, lounge, or restaurant is doing

them right?

The New AlchemistsShawn Soole - Clive’s (VICTORIA)Jay Jones - MARKET (VANCOUVER)Gerry Jobe - RauDZ RegionalTable (OKANAGAN)

Bartisans (bartender artisans) are coming up

with modern, edgy kinds of drinking utopias

and putting astonishing ingredients in a

glass in new ways.

Name your hero/heroine and the bar.

Best MocktailCranberry Casablanca (Ulla)GM Sahara Tamarin told EAT it’smade with Silk Road Casablancatea, organic cranberries & cinnamon syrup (VICTORIA)Virgin Vanilla Pear Ricky (Refuel) Bartender Jesse Walters makes it w/ pear purée,lime, vanilla bean & soda(VANCOUVER)Virgin Peach Bellini (LocalLounge) (OKANAGAN)

Don’t mock this no-alcohol cocktail has come

into its own. Who has made staying sober a

beautiful thing?

Best Local CookbookRebar: Modern Food (VICTORIA)Rebar Modern Food(VANCOUVER)‘That’s Amore’ From Ricardo’sKitchen (OKANAGAN)

When you want a homegrownrecipe for

dinner with family, or to make for friends,

what book do you turn to?

Best Locally-Owned(Food-Related) Store:Cook Culture (VICTORIA)Gourmet Warehouse (VANCOUVER)The Bench Artisan Food Market (OKANAGAN)

Need a fridge, chef?s knife, tablecloth, bag

of beets or coffee? You’re not a fan of big-box

shopping. Where do you go to buy it?

Place for GroceriesThrifty Foods (VICTORIA)Whole Foods (VANCOUVER)Quality Greens (OKANAGAN)

Which grocery store has the selection, the

quality, the people and the good vibes that

says, We are the best?

Best FarmTie: Madrona Farm & MichellBros Farm (VICTORIA)Kin’s Farm (VANCOUVER)Harker’s Organics (OKANAGAN)

They just have the freshest produce! What

local farm keeps you coming back for more?

Best Local Food Productor IngredientCold Comfort Ice Cream | Spot Prawns( VICTORIA)Terra Breads | SockeyeSalmon (VANCOUVER)Carmelis Goat Cheese |Peaches (OKANAGAN)

What local food, product or ingredient do

you take great pride in introducing your visit-

ing out-of-town friends and family to?

Place to Buy PieOldfield Orchard (VICTORIA)Savary Island Pie Company (VANCOUVER)Tie: Britannia Pies, Robert'sFruit Market & Orchard(OKANAGAN)

Pies. Meat pies. Glorious fruit pies. My, oh

my savoury and sweet. When you aren’t in

the mood to bake your own, where do you

go to buy a pie fix? (and don’t say you go to

your Mom’s)

Rebecca W

ellman

let’s eat in

Best Place to Buy Local FoodThe Root Cellar ( VICTORIA) • Granville Island Public Market (VANCOUVER) • Kelowna & Penticton Farmers Market (OKANAGAN)

Phil Lafreniere, Daisey Orser and Adam Orser at the Root Cellar

Place to Buy WineBCL Fort & Foul (VICTORIA)Liberty Wine Merchants (VANCOUVER)Tie: BC VQA Wine Info Centre,Discover Wines (OKANAGAN)Heads Ups

Driftwood Fat Tug IPA(VICTORIA)Granville Island English BayPale Ale (VANCOUVER)Naramata Nut Brown - Cannery Brewing (OKANAGAN)


of local beer. Name the local brew that has

real beer wonks foaming over?

Wine. You want an excellent selection, a

range of prices, and a personable,

knowledgeable staff. What’s your

recommendation?

Top Local BeverageDriftwood Fat Tug IPA(VICTORIA)Driftwood Fat Tug IPA (VANCOUVER)Poplar Grove Cab Franc(OKANAGAN)

This local beverage was, in a word, remark-

able. Be it wine, beer, cider, tea, coffee you

name it. What really impressed you this

year? Tell us what it was and which company

made it.

let’s drink


Great food, outstanding quality

The Sticky Wicket & The Clubhouse at The Strathcona Hotel919 Douglas Street Victoria BC 250.383.7137

www.strathconahotel.com

Fabulous features every day of the week!

Take a break from the kitchen

Prime Rib featured Thursday thru Saturday

Top BaristaStreet Level Espresso (VICTORIA)

Caffé Artigiano (VANCOUVER)Good Omens (OKANAGAN)

You bow to the bean and are always on the

prowl for the best macchiato, French press or

Ethiopian heirloom bean. Name your

favourite barista (or coffee shop) that keeps

you from going cold turkey.

Ground ControlCaffe Fantastico ( VICTORIA)Forty Ninth Parallel CoffeeRoasters (VANCOUVER)Cherry Hill Coffee (OKANAGAN)

We want to know who’s bag of coffee beans

you grind at home for your cuppa joe.

Place for Craft BeerCascadia Liquor (VICTORIA)Firefly Fine Wines and Ales (VANCOUVER)Tie: Cannery Brewing, MetroLiquor (OKANAGAN)

IPA, wit, stout, Belgian, porter. Where doyou buy the best quality selection?

Spirited MomentVictoria Gin (VICTORIA)Victoria Gin (VANCOUVER)Okanagan Spirits (OKANAGAN)

Who gets you to raise your glass for making thebest local spirit?

Fruit of Their LaboursMerridale Cider (VICTORIA)Elephant Island OrchardWines (VANCOUVER)Elephant Island OrchardWines (OKANAGAN)

Apples, pears, blackberries - whose cider or

fruit wine do you groove to?

Top Local WineZanatta (VICTORIA)Burrowing Owl VANCOUVER)Sumac Ridge Estate Winery(OKANAGAN)


of local wine. What would you bring?

What’s Old is New AgainClive’s (VICTORIA)Tie: Pourhouse Vancouver |The Diamond (VANCOUVER)RauDZ Regional Table(OKANAGAN)

Welcome back, gin & tonic; ciao, negroni;

bonjours,Sazerac. Old school drinks are one

of the hot new things on the cocktail scene.

Which bar, lounge, or restaurant is doing

them right?

The New AlchemistsShawn Soole - Clive’s (VICTORIA)Jay Jones - MARKET (VANCOUVER)Gerry Jobe - RauDZ RegionalTable (OKANAGAN)

Bartisans (bartender artisans) are coming up

with modern, edgy kinds of drinking utopias

and putting astonishing ingredients in a

glass in new ways.

Name your hero/heroine and the bar.

Best MocktailCranberry Casablanca (Ulla)GM Sahara Tamarin told EAT it’smade with Silk Road Casablancatea, organic cranberries & cinnamon syrup (VICTORIA)Virgin Vanilla Pear Ricky (Refuel) Bartender Jesse Walters makes it w/ pear purée,lime, vanilla bean & soda(VANCOUVER)Virgin Peach Bellini (LocalLounge) (OKANAGAN)

Don’t mock this no-alcohol cocktail has come

into its own. Who has made staying sober a

beautiful thing?


Lifetime Achievement Awards 2012

Behind the Counter-AwardOttavio (VICTORIA)Revolver Coffee (VANCOUVER)Local Lounge & Grille(OKANAGAN)

Who impressed you with their amazing

customer service this year?

The London Chef (VICTORIA)Hawksworth (VANCOUVER)Okanagan Street Food (OKANAGAN)

Best new addition to the food and drink scene in 2011?

Leave No FootprintRed Fish Blue Fish (VICTORIA)Tie: Vancouver Farmers Markets | Ocean Wise (VANCOUVER)RauDZ Regional Table(OKANAGAN)

What business, association or non-profit best

promotes a sustainable food system?

Best New Restaurant, Shop, or Café

FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF WINNERS (INCLUDING HONOURABLE MENTIONS)

PLEASE VISIT www.eatmagazine.ca and enter into Search:2012 Exceptional Eats Results


Food/Drink Experienceof the YearFeast of Fields (VICTORIA)Playhouse Wine Festival(VANCOUVER)Feast of Fields (OKANAGAN)

Events, festivals, and seminars on food and

drink were everywhere the past year which

one really did it for you?

The Next Big Thing Was there ever any doubt?Burgers of course. (VICTORIA)Macarons (VANCOUVER)Eating local (OKANAGAN)

Food fashions come and go. Remember

blackened fish? Cupcakes? Hibiscus flowers?

Is it time for pork to stop hogging the

spotlight? Say hello to the next big thing.

Cooking Class or SchoolThe London Chef (VICTORIA)Dirty Apron (VANCOUVER)Mission Hill Culinary Workshops (OKANAGAN)

Knife skills 101? Advanced pasta making? Breadbasics?

Worst Trend of 2011Cupcakes (VICTORIA)Foam Sauces (VANCOUVER)Foam Sauces (OKANAGAN)

New, but simply awful, trend. Help us weed itout! What is it?

The Foodie’s FoodieAwardEAT Magazine blush… (VICTORIA)Follow Me Foodie (VANCOUVER)Jennifer Schell-Pigott (OKANAGAN)

Who do you turn to learn from, keep you in

the know or ask advice?

I Eat, Therefore I TweetEAT Magazine double blush…(VICTORIA)Scout (VANCOUVER)Vine Vie (OKANAGAN)

Which food or drink tweeter, hyper-local

blog, online magazine, app or website is

your best friend.

let’s give credit

Vancouver Island

Peter Zambri(Zambri’s)Vancouver

John Bishop(Bishop’s)

Okanagan

Bernard Casavant (Wild Apple)

Chef Peter ZambriA lifelong journey in pursuit of a passion for food. This is what drovechef Peter Zambri up through the kitchens of Toronto and Vancouver,into the endless gardens of the Sooke Harbour House, through thebustling cities of Southeast Asia and India, and finally, to his family'snative Italy, where he lived and cooked for four years before returningto Vancouver Island. Peter opened Zambri's Restaurant with his sister Josephine in 1999.

Since it's debut, Zambri's has prevailed as one of Victoria's favouriterestaurants, while Peter and his team have earned an impressivecollection of honours including Best Victoria Restaurant fromVancouver Magazine, and glowing reviews from Zagat, James Barber(The Urban Peasant), The Vancouver Sun and Saveur Magazine. Peter's palpable charisma and energy are evident in his creative

delivery of Northern Italian country cuisine. He demonstrates the sameenthusiasm towards mentoring his younger cooks, throughparticipation in the Island Chef's Collaborative, and involvement inVictoria's newly opened Big Wheel Burger. With this Lifetime Achievement Award, EAT applauds Peter Zambri

for his decades of commitment to mastering the art and craft of greatfood. Here's to many more! —Deanna Ladret

Lifetime Achievement Awards 2012

Best new addition to the food and drink scene in 2011?

Leave No FootprintRed Fish Blue Fish (VICTORIA)Tie: Vancouver Farmers Markets | Ocean Wise (VANCOUVER)RauDZ Regional Table(OKANAGAN)

What business, association or non-profit best

promotes a sustainable food system?

Best New Restaurant, Shop, or Café

FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF WINNERS (INCLUDING HONOURABLE MENTIONS)

PLEASE VISIT www.eatmagazine.ca and enter into Search:2012 Exceptional Eats Results


ROASTING - EDUCATION - EQUIPMENT - DISTRIBUTION

WWW.OUGHTRED.COM

A FAMILY TRADITION OF BEVERAGE EXCELLENCE SINCE 1973...

[email protected]

A CARBON NEUTRAL COMPANY

BC Bites & BeveragesExplore the history of the food and beverage industry in BC. Purchase one evening event or the full series and save.

Beer | Greg Evans, Brewing Historian | April 26, 2012Join Greg and local brewers to taste award-winning beers and learn about British Columbia’s brewing history, from pioneers of the Gold Rush to the recent renaissance of craft brewing.

Bounty from the Harvest | Sept 27, 2012

Food from the Home Front | Nov 8, 2012

Treats: Candy & Chocolate | Feb 14, 2013

Traditional First Nations Food | March 21, 2013

Wine & Cheese | May 23, 2013

Tickets available now for members online or at the box office. Public sales begin March 29.

www.royalbcmuseum.bc.ca#bcbevs

The Next Big Thing Was there ever any doubt?Burgers of course. (VICTORIA)Macarons (VANCOUVER)Eating local (OKANAGAN)

Food fashions come and go. Remember

blackened fish? Cupcakes? Hibiscus flowers?

Is it time for pork to stop hogging the

spotlight? Say hello to the next big thing.

Cooking Class or SchoolThe London Chef (VICTORIA)Dirty Apron (VANCOUVER)Mission Hill Culinary Workshops (OKANAGAN)

Knife skills 101? Advanced pasta making? Breadbasics?

Worst Trend of 2011Cupcakes (VICTORIA)Foam Sauces (VANCOUVER)Foam Sauces (OKANAGAN)

New, but simply awful, trend. Help us weed itout! What is it?

Vancouver Island

Peter Zambri(Zambri’s)Vancouver

John Bishop(Bishop’s)

Okanagan

Bernard Casavant (Wild Apple)

Rebecca Wellm

an

Chef Peter ZambriA lifelong journey in pursuit of a passion for food. This is what drovechef Peter Zambri up through the kitchens of Toronto and Vancouver,into the endless gardens of the Sooke Harbour House, through thebustling cities of Southeast Asia and India, and finally, to his family'snative Italy, where he lived and cooked for four years before returningto Vancouver Island. Peter opened Zambri's Restaurant with his sister Josephine in 1999.

Since it's debut, Zambri's has prevailed as one of Victoria's favouriterestaurants, while Peter and his team have earned an impressivecollection of honours including Best Victoria Restaurant fromVancouver Magazine, and glowing reviews from Zagat, James Barber(The Urban Peasant), The Vancouver Sun and Saveur Magazine. Peter's palpable charisma and energy are evident in his creative

delivery of Northern Italian country cuisine. He demonstrates the sameenthusiasm towards mentoring his younger cooks, throughparticipation in the Island Chef's Collaborative, and involvement inVictoria's newly opened Big Wheel Burger. With this Lifetime Achievement Award, EAT applauds Peter Zambri

for his decades of commitment to mastering the art and craft of greatfood. Here's to many more! —Deanna Ladret

Peter Zambri


THE EE SPONSORS & DRAW WINNERS

VICTORIAAura Waterfront Restaurant & Patio (2 x$25*) laurelpoint.com/dining/auraSandi HealBlack Hat (Wagyu Tasting Dinner for Four$250*) theblackhat.caIan YeungCafe Brio ($75*) cafe-brio.comBridget MinishkaCanoe Brewpub ($75*)canoebrewpub.comSarah ThorntonCascadia Liquor ($100*)cascadialiquor.comLori McKenzieChateau Victoria (Dinner at Vista 18 andOne Night in a Suite) chateauvictoria.comElissa FrankhamCook Culture ($200*) cookculture.comMackenzie WheelerFlavour Restaurant (3-course dinner for two- $250*) 590-7787Barbara KahloHotel Grand Pacific (One night stay anddinner for two in the Mark) hotelgrandpacific.comKaren SymmesLifestyle Market ($50*) lifestylemarkets.comTony CheongLondon Chef (2 Interactive Classes*) thelondonchef.comStephen LeeLure at the Delta Victoria ($100*) lurevictoria.comRobin Gary HicksMatticks Farm VQA ($30*)matticksfarm.comLynne CarlsonNiagara/Fairfield Grocery ($50* & GiftBasket) getfreshwithalocal.comDiane MaclachlanOoh La La Cupcakes (3 x$30*)oohlalacupcakes.caJayne EmbreeRoot Cellar Village Green Grocer ($75*)www.therootcellar.caJess HowardSilk Road (Tea Cocktails & Mocktails Work-shop - $250*) silkroadtea.comGlen CampbellSlaters Meats ($25*) 250-592-0823Lisbet RygnestadVillage Butcher ($25*) thevillagebutcher.caTanya KirklandWannawafel (2 x $25) wannawafel.comE. B. Klassen

VANCOUVER131 Water ($50*) www.131water.comLandon YoungBC Wine School Voucher for the WSET level1 Course* bcwineschool.comMelanie StittBrowns Restaurant Group ($100*) brownsrestaurantgroup.comT PipesDiner No.1 ($50*) www.dinerone.comAlan RaeEdible at the Market ($100*) ediblecanada.com/bistro.phpBarbara Borchardteight 1/2 restaurant lounge ($50*) eightandahalf.caWing HuiJoey Restaurants ($100*) joeyrestaurants.comEddy TanSimply West Coast Sauces (10 sauces, t-short, ball cap) simplywestcoast.comLonnie TemereskiTeahouse and Seasons in the Park($100*) vancouverdine.comMarjorie Stevens

OKANAGANBench Market ($25*) thebenchmarket.comValencia CurkenHotel El Dorado (Romance Package) hoteleldoradokelowna.comJ HopperJoie Farm (Magnum of Rose) joie.caTanis SergeewMedici's Gelateria ($20*) medicisgelateria.caJessica StelkiaOkanagan Street Food ($50*) okanaganstreetfood.comVal JennerPentages (Sauvignon Blanc 08, Gamy2010, Merlot 2006) pentage.comKara PricePoppadoms ($50*) poppadoms.caHarmonie BassoRauDZ ($25* + 2 martini cars)raudz.com/RAUDZ/home.htmlStewart GlynesTheos Greek Restaurant ($50*) eatsquid.comAlena ZamoranoTree Brewing ($50*) treebeer.comMarilyn LawtonWaterfront Wine Bar & Restaurant($100*) waterfrontrestaurant.ca*denotes gift certificate valueEve Layman

Congratulations to our 40 prize winners. And a big thank-you to all the sponsors who donated such wonderful prizes.


Perfec tly placedin the

South Okanagan

www.tinhorn.com

Perfectly placed on rich South Okanagan farmland, Tinhorn Creek overlooks the old gold mining creek that is the winery’s namesake. We are environmental stewards of 150 acres of vineyards: “Diamondback” on the Black Sage Bench, and “Tinhorn Creek” on the Golden Mile Bench. Both provide us with the fruit to craft the superb, terroir driven wine that we’re known for. Our top tier Oldfield Series represents the finest of each vintage.

THE EE SPONSORS & DRAW WINNERS

VICTORIAAura Waterfront Restaurant & Patio (2 x$25*) laurelpoint.com/dining/auraSandi HealBlack Hat (Wagyu Tasting Dinner for Four$250*) theblackhat.caIan YeungCafe Brio ($75*) cafe-brio.comBridget MinishkaCanoe Brewpub ($75*)canoebrewpub.comSarah ThorntonCascadia Liquor ($100*)cascadialiquor.comLori McKenzieChateau Victoria (Dinner at Vista 18 andOne Night in a Suite) chateauvictoria.comElissa FrankhamCook Culture ($200*) cookculture.comMackenzie WheelerFlavour Restaurant (3-course dinner for two- $250*) 590-7787Barbara KahloHotel Grand Pacific (One night stay anddinner for two in the Mark) hotelgrandpacific.comKaren SymmesLifestyle Market ($50*) lifestylemarkets.comTony CheongLondon Chef (2 Interactive Classes*) thelondonchef.comStephen LeeLure at the Delta Victoria ($100*) lurevictoria.comRobin Gary HicksMatticks Farm VQA ($30*)matticksfarm.comLynne CarlsonNiagara/Fairfield Grocery ($50* & GiftBasket) getfreshwithalocal.comDiane MaclachlanOoh La La Cupcakes (3 x$30*)oohlalacupcakes.caJayne EmbreeRoot Cellar Village Green Grocer ($75*)www.therootcellar.caJess HowardSilk Road (Tea Cocktails & Mocktails Work-shop - $250*) silkroadtea.comGlen CampbellSlaters Meats ($25*) 250-592-0823Lisbet RygnestadVillage Butcher ($25*) thevillagebutcher.caTanya KirklandWannawafel (2 x $25) wannawafel.comE. B. Klassen

VANCOUVER131 Water ($50*) www.131water.comLandon YoungBC Wine School Voucher for the WSET level1 Course* bcwineschool.comMelanie StittBrowns Restaurant Group ($100*) brownsrestaurantgroup.comT PipesDiner No.1 ($50*) www.dinerone.comAlan RaeEdible at the Market ($100*) ediblecanada.com/bistro.phpBarbara Borchardteight 1/2 restaurant lounge ($50*) eightandahalf.caWing HuiJoey Restaurants ($100*) joeyrestaurants.comEddy TanSimply West Coast Sauces (10 sauces, t-short, ball cap) simplywestcoast.comLonnie TemereskiTeahouse and Seasons in the Park($100*) vancouverdine.comMarjorie Stevens

OKANAGANBench Market ($25*) thebenchmarket.comValencia CurkenHotel El Dorado (Romance Package) hoteleldoradokelowna.comJ HopperJoie Farm (Magnum of Rose) joie.caTanis SergeewMedici's Gelateria ($20*) medicisgelateria.caJessica StelkiaOkanagan Street Food ($50*) okanaganstreetfood.comVal JennerPentages (Sauvignon Blanc 08, Gamy2010, Merlot 2006) pentage.comKara PricePoppadoms ($50*) poppadoms.caHarmonie BassoRauDZ ($25* + 2 martini cars)raudz.com/RAUDZ/home.htmlStewart GlynesTheos Greek Restaurant ($50*) eatsquid.comAlena ZamoranoTree Brewing ($50*) treebeer.comMarilyn LawtonWaterfront Wine Bar & Restaurant($100*) waterfrontrestaurant.ca*denotes gift certificate valueEve Layman

Congratulations to our 40 prize winners. And a big thank-you to all the sponsors who donated such wonderful prizes.


Rebecca Wellm

an


Eating Well for Less— by Elizabeth Smyth

Le Petit Dakar | 711 Douglas St. at Belleville | 250-382-0287

Some spice has been added to the Victoria food scene with the arrival of Senegalesecuisine at Le Petit Dakar, across from the bus terminal on Douglas. Senegal is on thewest coast of Africa and its food incorporates spices and aromatics such as cloves,cayenne and ginger (do order the fresh ginger juice) and ingredients like beans andzucchini.A French colony until 1960, when it gained its independence, Senegalese food still

possesses something of a French influence, evident in the Domoda, or Senegalese beefbourguignon, a most basic of stews that may go over well with less adventurous palatesand is in fact what my young daughter ate. I preferred the flavour burst of the Yassaau Poulet with Onions, a baked garlic and pepper chicken dish much like jerk chickenand served with a mound of fried onions over rice. The vegan black-eyed peas, a jauntypile of beans tumbled with garlic, tomatoes and peppers, is scented with cloves. Thevegetable curry, like everything else here, contains no processed foods or additivesand its vegetable stock is made on site. The samosas made me moan aloud—flakypastries stuffed with sweet potato, yam and curry seasoning and punctuated with asurprise of raisins. These are the owner Bintou Toure’s top seller and no surprise. This small café tucked into the Crystal Garden mainly does take-out, with menu

items on rotation, so you might not always get the entrées I’ve listed. There are threetables if you want to sit down, but it’s very informal—just a place for a quick bite.While care may not have gone into the décor, because it’s not that kind of place, carehas certainly gone into the food. Toure trained at Camosun and has included somevegan and gluten-free dishes, so there are many options. She was also sweet about let-ting us practice our French.

Apple Café | 2031 Store St. | 250-590-6177

Another new kid on the block is the Apple Café, tucked into a new health food storecalled Ingredients at Store and Discovery. This vegetarian café’s mission is to make allfood as nutritious as possible. My absolute favourite savoury dish was the raw vegansunflower almond flatbread pizza for $7.50. The base is a brilliant piece of alchemy—

Bintou Toure, owner and chef of Le Petit Dakar. right: Yassa au Pouletpureed almonds and flax dehydrated into a paste and then baked into a toothsomepizza base. This is spread with a creamy cashew “cheese,” then topped with a salsa ofolives, sun-dried tomatoes and yellow peppers. The salty olives pair beautifully withthe creamy nut paste, and the whole effect is lightened by pea sprouts draped over top.The other hit was the pasta special of Kildara Farm Rotini Alfredo with sheep milk

Romano and green salad for $10. The rich, creamy cheese sauce was interspersed withbright, diced tomato, and the side salad included a colourful profusion of sprouts,shaved beets and carrots. Many of the foods I tried were both earnest and enticing; acouple were simply earnest but could be easily improved. The quesadilla of cabbage,cilantro, lime and roasted chipotle pepper ($12 with a salad) is made with sprouted riceand germinated pinto beans, two processes that make the foods easier to digest and theprotein more accessible. A jolt more lime and chipotle will bring this dish out of“earnest” and into “enticing.” Desserts are inventive. “Almond dream bars” are made with coconut and almond

paste and sweetened with xylitol, which is derived from birch bark. The raw vegandark chocolate cheesecake seems to defy gravity; cashews are soaked, sweetened andwhipped into a froth that’s piled onto a nutty crust and capped with a fudgy topping.This café was only three weeks old when I visited, so the menu is still being adaptedand fine-tuned; it is certainly worth a visit to see what clever things they may be doingwith raw food and to visit the spacious health food store.

Clive’s Classic Lounge | Chateau Victoria Hotel |740 Burdett Ave. | 250.361.5684

At Clive’s Classic Lounge, we leave the vegan scene for the meat-loving Mad Men scene(though don’t get me wrong—you can get a salad.). When you go for lunch, the focusof this report, you get lounge food basics with some quality details. And you get toenjoy a soothing, quiet and comfortable atmosphere (again, at lunch, not during itsmore hopping evening cocktail scene). This is a place to linger and relax into aconversation with a long-lost friend. And you can enjoy this privilege for the cost ofa $10 meal. The food is classic, just like the lounge; nothing fancy but tasty. A favourite is the

Crispy Farmhouse Chicken Sandwich done Italian-style, with the chicken fried a darkgolden brown, like a good schnitzel. It’s topped with basil aioli and a slice of tomato—a healthy-looking tomato, mind you, not a tragic, limp tomato. This is noteworthysince the sandwich, with its accompanying scoop of coleslaw, is only $9. I hit the jack-pot with the daily special, the lamb burger. It was an inch thick and extremely juicy.

Raw vegan sunflower almond flatbread pizza with raw olives, peppers,cashew cheese, sundried tomato sauce, spinach, tomatoes. Dessert isorange chocolate cake with a lemon macaroon crust.

Rebecca Wellm

an

Rebecca Wellm

an

victoria

The smear of blue cheese on top is Roaring 40s Blue from Ottavio’s, a classy touch fora bar basic. This is also $9, including the side of coleslaw; for $3 more, you can get aside of fries or salad. I’m wondering if a petition would get this onto the main menu.For those not in a meat mood, the enormous Everything Salad for $11 has standard

mixed greens with baby tomatoes, slivered red onions, a quarter of an avocado and peashoots, tossed with a creamy Dijon dressing. And, of course, you may just be there fora quiet lunch far from the madding crowd, but nothing is stopping you from order-ing one of Clive’s famous classic cocktails to go with it. I assure you it will be worththe effort.


pureed almonds and flax dehydrated into a paste and then baked into a toothsomepizza base. This is spread with a creamy cashew “cheese,” then topped with a salsa ofolives, sun-dried tomatoes and yellow peppers. The salty olives pair beautifully withthe creamy nut paste, and the whole effect is lightened by pea sprouts draped over top.The other hit was the pasta special of Kildara Farm Rotini Alfredo with sheep milk

Romano and green salad for $10. The rich, creamy cheese sauce was interspersed withbright, diced tomato, and the side salad included a colourful profusion of sprouts,shaved beets and carrots. Many of the foods I tried were both earnest and enticing; acouple were simply earnest but could be easily improved. The quesadilla of cabbage,cilantro, lime and roasted chipotle pepper ($12 with a salad) is made with sprouted riceand germinated pinto beans, two processes that make the foods easier to digest and theprotein more accessible. A jolt more lime and chipotle will bring this dish out of“earnest” and into “enticing.” Desserts are inventive. “Almond dream bars” are made with coconut and almond

paste and sweetened with xylitol, which is derived from birch bark. The raw vegandark chocolate cheesecake seems to defy gravity; cashews are soaked, sweetened andwhipped into a froth that’s piled onto a nutty crust and capped with a fudgy topping.This café was only three weeks old when I visited, so the menu is still being adaptedand fine-tuned; it is certainly worth a visit to see what clever things they may be doingwith raw food and to visit the spacious health food store.

Clive’s Classic Lounge | Chateau Victoria Hotel |740 Burdett Ave. | 250.361.5684

At Clive’s Classic Lounge, we leave the vegan scene for the meat-loving Mad Men scene(though don’t get me wrong—you can get a salad.). When you go for lunch, the focusof this report, you get lounge food basics with some quality details. And you get toenjoy a soothing, quiet and comfortable atmosphere (again, at lunch, not during itsmore hopping evening cocktail scene). This is a place to linger and relax into aconversation with a long-lost friend. And you can enjoy this privilege for the cost ofa $10 meal. The food is classic, just like the lounge; nothing fancy but tasty. A favourite is the

Crispy Farmhouse Chicken Sandwich done Italian-style, with the chicken fried a darkgolden brown, like a good schnitzel. It’s topped with basil aioli and a slice of tomato—a healthy-looking tomato, mind you, not a tragic, limp tomato. This is noteworthysince the sandwich, with its accompanying scoop of coleslaw, is only $9. I hit the jack-pot with the daily special, the lamb burger. It was an inch thick and extremely juicy.

Raw vegan sunflower almond flatbread pizza with raw olives, peppers,cashew cheese, sundried tomato sauce, spinach, tomatoes. Dessert isorange chocolate cake with a lemon macaroon crust.

Rebecca Wellm

an

Rebecca Wellm

an

left: Nate Caudle of Clives. ). He madehis own Saskatoon berry liqueur forthe Saskatoon Julep pictured above.

The smear of blue cheese on top is Roaring 40s Blue from Ottavio’s, a classy touch fora bar basic. This is also $9, including the side of coleslaw; for $3 more, you can get aside of fries or salad. I’m wondering if a petition would get this onto the main menu.For those not in a meat mood, the enormous Everything Salad for $11 has standard

mixed greens with baby tomatoes, slivered red onions, a quarter of an avocado and peashoots, tossed with a creamy Dijon dressing. And, of course, you may just be there fora quiet lunch far from the madding crowd, but nothing is stopping you from order-ing one of Clive’s famous classic cocktails to go with it. I assure you it will be worththe effort.


West | 881 Granville Street @13th | Vancouver |604.738.8938

West has long been a benchmark for cutting-edge West Coast cuisine, right fromits celebrated beginnings when David Hawksworth manned the kitchen. Now QuangDang, formerly of C Restaurant and Diva at the Met, has moved his EC toque to theplace where he started his career (as a junior sous chef) and has re-imagined the menuinto something that goes well beyond the over-sung mantra of “fresh, local,sustainable.”Transparent brandied truffle gel cuts the salt in—and adds richness to—a traditional

amuse of Kusshi oyster in the half shell topped with Northern Divine sustainable caviarfrom Sechelt. Thiessen Farm quail is marinated in thyme, then grilled and served as astarter with chanterelle tortellini and roasted Brussels sprouts ($18.50). CharredVancouver Island octopus off the tasting menu ($76 for eight plates) is dressed withbarigoule vinaigrette (think artichokes, mushrooms, onions) and sided with marinatedvegetables from Pemberton.One of the biggest menu changes is the new collection of smaller sharing plates,

available at the bar or in the dining room. These range from a simple, but astoundingNorth Arm Farm beet salad with hazelnuts and parsley pistou ($8) to delicate gnocchiin sage brown butter and parmesan ($9), and barely-holding-it-together braised beefshort ribs with red onion marmalade. The menu isn’t the only thing that’s changed. The room has been redone, with an

ear (excuse the pun) for better acoustics. The noise level is more muted now, thanksto undulating mirrored ceiling panels. Fabric-covered walls with elaborate leather cut-outs mimic the subtle pattern carved into the white Caesarstone tables.And while the white tablecloths may be gone, the service, under Restaurant Manager

Brian Hopkins, is still the elegant pas des deux that West is famous for, and is morethan matched by Bar Manager David Wolowidnyk’s smooth, barrel-aged cocktails andthe stellar wine selections (like my Sauvignon Blanc from the Gascon coast) offered byWine Director Owen Knowlton. Other restaurants may be “dining down” to casual, butit’s nice to see that some restaurants are still waving their fine dining—and drinking—flag with panache.—By Anya Levykh

Pronto Caffe | 3473 Cambie St, Vancouver |604.722.9331

Angela Maida is a woman of excellent taste. Before I had even tried a single itemon the menu of her recently-opened Pronto Caffe, I knew I could trust her culinaryjudgement after she took a provolone sandwich and turned it inside-out—literally.Okay, only the bun was inside-out, but that was enough. The soft baguette was notonly flipped, but then pesto was added to the new exterior before being stuffed andgrilled. It made for an incredibly delicious and perfectly textured meal, one I’ve goneback for on several occasions.Pronto is part of the new culinary mecca that is South Cambie. A stone’s throw away

from Pied-à-Terre, Benton Brothers Fine Cheeses, Las Tortas, et al, this licensed café hassnuggled itself into the neighbourhood like a cozy bowl of polenta. The room is awarm, wood-panelled rectangle of comfortable padded booths, gleaming counters andopen kitchen.As for the food, the house specialty is the porchetta, served in a sandwich or as a

main with roasted rosemary potatoes. The porchetta is made in-house, a giant rolledroaster that is hauled out and sliced thick to order. For the sandwich, it gets choppedinto juicy cubes, effectively distributing the considerable crackling as manageable bitesthroughout the sandwich. The aforementioned provolone is another hit, with itsroasted garlic and red pepper filling. Daily pasta and main features cover everythingfrom beef fiorentino to linguine with artichokes, asparagus, capers and olives. Dessertsare also made in-house, like the simple but tasty raspberry panna cotta I tried on mylast visit.The beer and wine list is equally brief and matches the food well. A couple local

craft brews and the obligatory Peroni complete the hops list, while the wines (avail-able by glass and bottle) cover Italy, Chile, Australia, New Zealand and the U.S. Every-thing is reasonably priced (only one bottle heads over the $40 mark) and of the twoProsecco options, one is Veneto’s organic offering. The charcuterie and cheese plates($9 each) make great sides to a few glasses of Masi’s Campofiorin, and the only thingI’m missing here is a little moscato to go with dessert. Maybe a little d’Asti?

—By Anya Levykh

reporter

Chef Quang Dang’s charred Vancouver Island octopus

Tracey Kusiewicz

Tracey Kusiewicz


The whole beast

- -

TOP FLOOR - CHATEAU VICTORIA HOTEL - 740 BURDETT AVECALL US AT 250.382.9258 OR VISIT WWW.VISTA18.COM

RES TAURANT - MARTINI & WINE BAR

Reservations Recommended

Even our Chefs are locally grown!

West | 881 Granville Street @13th | Vancouver |604.738.8938

West has long been a benchmark for cutting-edge West Coast cuisine, right fromits celebrated beginnings when David Hawksworth manned the kitchen. Now QuangDang, formerly of C Restaurant and Diva at the Met, has moved his EC toque to theplace where he started his career (as a junior sous chef) and has re-imagined the menuinto something that goes well beyond the over-sung mantra of “fresh, local,sustainable.”Transparent brandied truffle gel cuts the salt in—and adds richness to—a traditional

amuse of Kusshi oyster in the half shell topped with Northern Divine sustainable caviarfrom Sechelt. Thiessen Farm quail is marinated in thyme, then grilled and served as astarter with chanterelle tortellini and roasted Brussels sprouts ($18.50). CharredVancouver Island octopus off the tasting menu ($76 for eight plates) is dressed withbarigoule vinaigrette (think artichokes, mushrooms, onions) and sided with marinatedvegetables from Pemberton.One of the biggest menu changes is the new collection of smaller sharing plates,

available at the bar or in the dining room. These range from a simple, but astoundingNorth Arm Farm beet salad with hazelnuts and parsley pistou ($8) to delicate gnocchiin sage brown butter and parmesan ($9), and barely-holding-it-together braised beefshort ribs with red onion marmalade. The menu isn’t the only thing that’s changed. The room has been redone, with an

ear (excuse the pun) for better acoustics. The noise level is more muted now, thanksto undulating mirrored ceiling panels. Fabric-covered walls with elaborate leather cut-outs mimic the subtle pattern carved into the white Caesarstone tables.And while the white tablecloths may be gone, the service, under Restaurant Manager

Brian Hopkins, is still the elegant pas des deux that West is famous for, and is morethan matched by Bar Manager David Wolowidnyk’s smooth, barrel-aged cocktails andthe stellar wine selections (like my Sauvignon Blanc from the Gascon coast) offered byWine Director Owen Knowlton. Other restaurants may be “dining down” to casual, butit’s nice to see that some restaurants are still waving their fine dining—and drinking—flag with panache.—By Anya Levykh

Pronto Caffe | 3473 Cambie St, Vancouver |604.722.9331

Angela Maida is a woman of excellent taste. Before I had even tried a single itemon the menu of her recently-opened Pronto Caffe, I knew I could trust her culinaryjudgement after she took a provolone sandwich and turned it inside-out—literally.Okay, only the bun was inside-out, but that was enough. The soft baguette was notonly flipped, but then pesto was added to the new exterior before being stuffed andgrilled. It made for an incredibly delicious and perfectly textured meal, one I’ve goneback for on several occasions.Pronto is part of the new culinary mecca that is South Cambie. A stone’s throw away

from Pied-à-Terre, Benton Brothers Fine Cheeses, Las Tortas, et al, this licensed café hassnuggled itself into the neighbourhood like a cozy bowl of polenta. The room is awarm, wood-panelled rectangle of comfortable padded booths, gleaming counters andopen kitchen.As for the food, the house specialty is the porchetta, served in a sandwich or as a

main with roasted rosemary potatoes. The porchetta is made in-house, a giant rolledroaster that is hauled out and sliced thick to order. For the sandwich, it gets choppedinto juicy cubes, effectively distributing the considerable crackling as manageable bitesthroughout the sandwich. The aforementioned provolone is another hit, with itsroasted garlic and red pepper filling. Daily pasta and main features cover everythingfrom beef fiorentino to linguine with artichokes, asparagus, capers and olives. Dessertsare also made in-house, like the simple but tasty raspberry panna cotta I tried on mylast visit.The beer and wine list is equally brief and matches the food well. A couple local

craft brews and the obligatory Peroni complete the hops list, while the wines (avail-able by glass and bottle) cover Italy, Chile, Australia, New Zealand and the U.S. Every-thing is reasonably priced (only one bottle heads over the $40 mark) and of the twoProsecco options, one is Veneto’s organic offering. The charcuterie and cheese plates($9 each) make great sides to a few glasses of Masi’s Campofiorin, and the only thingI’m missing here is a little moscato to go with dessert. Maybe a little d’Asti?

—By Anya Levykh

reporter

Tracey Kusiewicz

Tracey Kusiewicz

Angela Maida slicing porchetta


local kitchen

eeky Fish Nuets& Duck Fries

WITH AIOLIEXP

LOSIVE


DoughnutHoles

Recipes and food styling by JENNIFER DANTER • Photography byMICHAEL TOURIGNY • Wine pairing by TREVE RING

eeky Fish Nuets& Duck Fries

WITH AIOLIEXP

LOSIVE

YOUR FRY DAY STARTS HERE


This is a cheeky dinner, really. A fun ode to ourfavourite fish + chips, but made at home. Meatyhalibut cheeks (easier on the wallet than fillets) areenrobed in an airy tempura coat. They demand to beeaten with fries! And not just any fries. But fries madericher, bolder and dare I say, even fattier thanks to adip in duck fat rather than straight-up oil. And to makethis meal a triumvirate of deep-fried fun, wind downwith explosive jelly-filled doughnut holes.

Chubby Duck Fries

The secret is to cook these plump spuds long and low until they are meltingly tender,then jack up the heat. Seems a weird and wrong thing to do, but try it. Serves 4

2 large potatoes (I can never get past Yukon Gold for these)Duck fat*Fresh thyme sprigs2 chili peppers (optional)Sea Salt

Melt duck fat in a non-stick frying pan set over low heat. At this point, you just wantto liquefy the fat, not really heat it. Meanwhile, scrub potatoes, then cut (leave peel on)into thick batons. Rinse well, then shake off excess water. If you have extra time, soakthe fries in frigidly cold water for 30 minutes.

Arrange potatoes in a single layer – or close to that – in bottom of pan. Be sure theyare covered with melted fat. If you need, top it up with a trifle of vegetable oil.Potatoes tend to stick to the bottom of the pan – I had the best success when using anon-stick pan.

Cook, uncovered, over low heat until potatoes are tender (you can tell because they’llstart to look translucent), 20 to 30 minutes. Be sure to gently stir often to avoidsticking. Increase heat to medium-medium high (constantly monitor temperature!)and fry until crispy and deep golden. Add a few sprigs of thyme and chilis towardsend of cooking (careful – the oil will splutter).

Remove fries, as they are done, and place on paper to absorb excess oil. Sprinklegenerously with sea salt, then crumble fried thyme leaves overtop.

*Local Duck Fat? Can’t vouch for where the poor ducks actually shed the pounds, butyou can buy duck fat at local shops such as the Village Butcher, Ottavio or ChouxChoux.

Cont’d from pg. 27Cheeky Fish Nuggets

Batter + hot oil really like each other. Skin + hot oil don't get on so well. Please be care-ful! Keep your work area clean, have tongs on hand and baking sheet lined withtowels or paper to place hot fish on before you start cooking.

2/3 cup all-purpose flour1/3 cup cornstarch1 tsp finely chopped fresh thyme½ tsp saltPinch of baking soda1 egg1 cup cold soda water1 lb halibut cheeksSea salt and black pepperVegetable oil

In a large bowl, stir flour with cornstarch, thyme, salt and baking soda. In a smallbowl, whisk egg. Stir in soda water, then pour over flour mixture and stir just untilblended. A few lumps are OK. Let batter stand for 10 minutes. If batter looks too thick,thin with a little soda or if too thin, stir in a spoonful of flour.

Pour oil into a deep heavy saucepan and set over medium heat. If you have a deep frythermometer, heat to 350F. Otherwise, to test readiness, drop a cube of bread into hotoil – it should sizzle and turn golden quickly.

Generously season halibut cheeks with sea salt and pepper. Working with one pieceat a time, dip fish in batter and generously coat. Carefully lower into hot oil. Repeatwith a few pieces of fish – don’t overcrowd pan – work in batches. Cook until batter islight golden and turn occasionally for even browning. Blot cooked fish on paper. Serveas soon as possible. Dish up with Quick Aioli (see below) and you favourite hot sauce.

Quick AioliStir ¾ cup mayo with 1 Tbsp Dijon. Finely chop 2 green onions and stir in. Squeezein juice from half a lemon. Taste. Like it? Spice it up with a few dashes of your favouritehot sauce.

Explosive Doughnut HolesThese are best eaten slightly warm but can be made a few hours before serving. Graba jar of jelly or jam from your pantry (homemade from summer berries of course!) forthe filling – if using a chunky jam, be sure to finely chop the bits – it will make yourlife easier! Be generous when filling - it's OK if they explode! Makes 20 doughnut holes.

2 cups all-purpose flour3 Tbsp sugar11/2 Tbsp baking powderPinches of salt1 cup whole milk¼ cup butter, melted1 egg2 tsp vanilla extractVegetable oilGranulated sugar, for dusting11/2 cups jam or jelly

1n a large bowl, whisk flour with sugar, baking powder and salt.Gently warm milk (you don’t want to boil) and stir in butter until melted. In a smallbowl whisk egg, then whisk in vanilla. Whisk in a little warm milk mixture, then grad-ually whisk in remainder. Pour over dry mixture and stir to mix. Batter will be thick.

Pour oil into a deep frying pan and set over medium heat. If you have a deep fry ther-mometer, heat to 350F. Otherwise, to test readiness, drop a little dough into hot oil –it should sizzle.

Using a spoon, drop balls of batter, about a heaping Tbsp, at a time, into hot oil (becareful!). Do not crowd pan. It’s best to work in batches.

Fry until dough turns deep golden, 2 to 3 minutes, turning over halfway through cook-ing. Adjust heat as necessary so oil stays consistently hot. To test for doneness, removea ball. Balls should have a crisp crust and the centre should be cooked through to thecentre. Carefully remove cooked doughnuts balls and let drain on paper. While warm,coat holes with sugar.

Fill a piping bag with jam (less chunky the better). Insert pastry tip into each ball andwiggle to create more space. Squeeze in jam. Reroll in sugar.


This is a cheeky dinner, really. A fun ode to ourfavourite fish + chips, but made at home. Meatyhalibut cheeks (easier on the wallet than fillets) areenrobed in an airy tempura coat. They demand to beeaten with fries! And not just any fries. But fries madericher, bolder and dare I say, even fattier thanks to adip in duck fat rather than straight-up oil. And to makethis meal a triumvirate of deep-fried fun, wind downwith explosive jelly-filled doughnut holes.

Chubby Duck Fries

The secret is to cook these plump spuds long and low until they are meltingly tender,then jack up the heat. Seems a weird and wrong thing to do, but try it. Serves 4

2 large potatoes (I can never get past Yukon Gold for these)Duck fat*Fresh thyme sprigs2 chili peppers (optional)Sea Salt

Melt duck fat in a non-stick frying pan set over low heat. At this point, you just wantto liquefy the fat, not really heat it. Meanwhile, scrub potatoes, then cut (leave peel on)into thick batons. Rinse well, then shake off excess water. If you have extra time, soakthe fries in frigidly cold water for 30 minutes.

Arrange potatoes in a single layer – or close to that – in bottom of pan. Be sure theyare covered with melted fat. If you need, top it up with a trifle of vegetable oil.Potatoes tend to stick to the bottom of the pan – I had the best success when using anon-stick pan.

Cook, uncovered, over low heat until potatoes are tender (you can tell because they’llstart to look translucent), 20 to 30 minutes. Be sure to gently stir often to avoidsticking. Increase heat to medium-medium high (constantly monitor temperature!)and fry until crispy and deep golden. Add a few sprigs of thyme and chilis towardsend of cooking (careful – the oil will splutter).

Remove fries, as they are done, and place on paper to absorb excess oil. Sprinklegenerously with sea salt, then crumble fried thyme leaves overtop.

*Local Duck Fat? Can’t vouch for where the poor ducks actually shed the pounds, butyou can buy duck fat at local shops such as the Village Butcher, Ottavio or ChouxChoux.

Cheeky Fish Nuggets

Batter + hot oil really like each other. Skin + hot oil don't get on so well. Please be care-ful! Keep your work area clean, have tongs on hand and baking sheet lined withtowels or paper to place hot fish on before you start cooking.

2/3 cup all-purpose flour1/3 cup cornstarch1 tsp finely chopped fresh thyme½ tsp saltPinch of baking soda1 egg1 cup cold soda water1 lb halibut cheeksSea salt and black pepperVegetable oil

In a large bowl, stir flour with cornstarch, thyme, salt and baking soda. In a smallbowl, whisk egg. Stir in soda water, then pour over flour mixture and stir just untilblended. A few lumps are OK. Let batter stand for 10 minutes. If batter looks too thick,thin with a little soda or if too thin, stir in a spoonful of flour.

Pour oil into a deep heavy saucepan and set over medium heat. If you have a deep frythermometer, heat to 350F. Otherwise, to test readiness, drop a cube of bread into hotoil – it should sizzle and turn golden quickly.

Generously season halibut cheeks with sea salt and pepper. Working with one pieceat a time, dip fish in batter and generously coat. Carefully lower into hot oil. Repeatwith a few pieces of fish – don’t overcrowd pan – work in batches. Cook until batter islight golden and turn occasionally for even browning. Blot cooked fish on paper. Serveas soon as possible. Dish up with Quick Aioli (see below) and you favourite hot sauce.

Quick AioliStir ¾ cup mayo with 1 Tbsp Dijon. Finely chop 2 green onions and stir in. Squeezein juice from half a lemon. Taste. Like it? Spice it up with a few dashes of your favouritehot sauce.

Explosive Doughnut HolesThese are best eaten slightly warm but can be made a few hours before serving. Graba jar of jelly or jam from your pantry (homemade from summer berries of course!) forthe filling – if using a chunky jam, be sure to finely chop the bits – it will make yourlife easier! Be generous when filling - it's OK if they explode! Makes 20 doughnut holes.

2 cups all-purpose flour3 Tbsp sugar11/2 Tbsp baking powderPinches of salt1 cup whole milk¼ cup butter, melted1 egg2 tsp vanilla extractVegetable oilGranulated sugar, for dusting11/2 cups jam or jelly

1n a large bowl, whisk flour with sugar, baking powder and salt.Gently warm milk (you don’t want to boil) and stir in butter until melted. In a smallbowl whisk egg, then whisk in vanilla. Whisk in a little warm milk mixture, then grad-ually whisk in remainder. Pour over dry mixture and stir to mix. Batter will be thick.

Pour oil into a deep frying pan and set over medium heat. If you have a deep fry ther-mometer, heat to 350F. Otherwise, to test readiness, drop a little dough into hot oil –it should sizzle.

Using a spoon, drop balls of batter, about a heaping Tbsp, at a time, into hot oil (becareful!). Do not crowd pan. It’s best to work in batches.

Fry until dough turns deep golden, 2 to 3 minutes, turning over halfway through cook-ing. Adjust heat as necessary so oil stays consistently hot. To test for doneness, removea ball. Balls should have a crisp crust and the centre should be cooked through to thecentre. Carefully remove cooked doughnuts balls and let drain on paper. While warm,coat holes with sugar.

Fill a piping bag with jam (less chunky the better). Insert pastry tip into each ball andwiggle to create more space. Squeeze in jam. Reroll in sugar.


What to drink?Chubby, cheeky and explosive? Bring onthe beer. Go for a flavour packed, freshand local brew – Driftwood White Barkand Hoyner Pilsner come to mind fortheir pure refreshing character. —Treve Ring


Three pioneers of the Island’s edible seaweed industry are harvesting these unique plants with care and commitment


Sea Veggies

For millennia, coastal inhabitants around the world have included avariety of edible seaweed in their diets. For contemporary urban dwellers,however, the only seaweed most of us have ever tasted is nori—the dark

green, papery sheets used to wrap sushi. The nori that we eat is imported from Asia,where there is a longstanding appreciation for sea vegetables and the manufacturing ofseaweed products is highly developed. While the coasts of British Columbia also sharea wealth of seaweed (more than 600 identified species according to Bamfield marinebotanist Louis Druehl in his book Pacific Seaweeds), sea vegetables remain a largelyuntapped resource in our kitchens. Not only are they incredibly versatile, flavourfulingredients, however. Seaweeds also offer unparalleled health benefits through theirconcentrated supply of minerals (high quality sodium chloride, iodine, iron, calciumand magnesium), nutrients (heart and liver strengthening phytochemicals) andvitamins (A, E, C, B2 and B15). Here on Vancouver Island, a former salmon fisherman, a politician and a marine

biologist are linked by a common dedication to these unique plants. All are pioneers inthe Island’s edible seaweed industry. Each has built their own successful, innovativebusiness around edible seaweeds and are introducing Canadians to more enticing waysto include local sea vegetables into their own diet.

Westcoast SeaweedBrad Carey is the founding owner of Westcoast Seaweed. The former salmon fishermanwas looking to expand his work season when he started harvesting sea cucumbers andscallops for North Douglas Distributors in 1991. It was there that he was first asked if hecould bring in some sea asparagus (salicornia virginica). Carey had never heard of theplant before but figured if it was in the ocean, he’d look for it. His employer explainedthat what he was looking for wouldn’t exactly be found in the ocean but where there wasa mix of fresh and salt water (intertidal marshes). After finding a suitable spot to harvest,Carey discovered that the work complemented the rest of his schedule—divers needdays on land to “off gas,” and on those days, he could harvest sea asparagus. After a fewyears of harvesting the plant for other distributors, Carey took some time away fromthe water to complete a few business courses at UVic. In 2001, he was ready to launchhis own business. Carey’s passion for sea asparagus is obvious—he describes himself as a “voice piece for

the plant.” “The variety we find off the coasts of B.C. belongs to the same scientific sub-family (Salicornioideae) as the plants known as ‘swampfire’ on the east coast of the U.S.,‘sampiere’ in France, and ‘samphire’ in the U.K. It has also been referred to as pickling-weed, or sea bean.” Recent research in the Gwaii Haanas Marine Area found evidencethat the Haida made intertidal gardens to collect a variety of plants and shellfish,including sea asparagus. Today, it is a specialty food, though Westcoast Seaweed is receiving increased interest

from home cooks wanting to experiment with the plant in their own kitchens. Seaasparagus can be served fresh, sautéed or pickled. It offers a pleasant alternative to othercrispy green vegetables such as green beans or asparagus and is a suitable accompanimentto seafood dishes. To reduce its salty flavour, Carey recommends quick blanching (30-45 seconds), warning against overcooking. Eighty percent of the sea asparagus heharvests is sold fresh to restaurants, with between 40 and 50 chefs requesting hisproduct throughout the summer season. The plant is harvested from the beginning ofJune through to the third week of August. The remaining 20 percent of his seasonalharvest is either pickled or pre-blanched and frozen. Westcoast Seaweed products areavailable in season at restaurants and specialty food shops, or direct from the onlinestore.

Outer Coast SeaweedsDiane Bernard is known by many simply as “the Seaweed Lady.” With a background incriminology, Bernard spent the early part of her career involved in politics. Always asocial activist, her focus was on local economic development, and she soon began tostudy the problems around the way we use our natural resources. In 1999, she decided

to apply the lessons she had been teaching to her own life – take a wild resource anddevelop it to its utmost potential (or, in economy-speak, “value add”). Seaweed was anatural choice for Bernard, who has roots in both the Magdalen Islands (Îles de laMadeleine) and a small Acadian community in New Brunswick. She still feels this strongmaritime family influence, and remembers how her aunt would serve favourite seaweedrecipes at the family table. In 2001, with six local chefs, including then Sooke HarbourHouse chef Edward Tuson, on board, Diane founded Outer Coast Seaweeds with the goalof providing wild seaweeds for culinary use. Her harvest has been served in raw seaweedsalads at the Sooke Harbour House, made into pesto and folded into bread at Cooper’sCove Guesthouse. Bernard cites Nancy Turner, an eminent ethnobotanist at UVic, as an excellent source

of knowledge as she was learning about the different plants. She also spent timeresearching local seaweed in the Royal British Columbia Museum archives. Ten yearslater, she spouts facts with ease (did you know that the bull kelp found off our coasts isthe fasting growing plant on earth? It can grow up to 30 metres in eleven months). Sheis also a frequent speaker at international algae society meetings.Outer Coast Seaweeds is the first USDA certified organic seaweed company in North

America. Diane explains how this certification process was unique, as seaweed has adifferent cell structure from land vegetation. Seaweed does not root; it has a holdfast, sothere is no exchange of nutrients from the soil and the plant, only between the waterand the plant. For this reason, the water must undergo testing on a regular basis. OuterCoast specializes in eight different kinds of edible seaweed, including sea lettuce (ulva),feather boa seaweed (Egregia menziesii) and winged kelp (Alaria marginata), and hasprovided seaweed to both the provincial and federal Government House kitchens forspecial occasions, including the emperor of Japan’s visit in 2009. Outer Coast is also theparent company for Sea Flora, a seaweed-based skincare line that Bernard refers to as“food for your skin.” In 2011, the company opened a brand-new seaweed processingfacility in Sooke.

Dakini Tidal WildsFrom May to October you can find Amanda Swinimer in the water harvesting twovarieties of kelp – winged kelp (Alaria marginata) and bull kelp (Nereocystis) for her home-based business, Dakini Tidal Wilds. Winged kelp involves wading in knee- to chest-deepwater at the lowest tides of the moon cycle, while to harvest the bull kelp she must swimoffshore. Both provide the opportunity for impressive encounters with nature. Inaddition to seeing orcas and stellar sea lions, Swinimer has swum with salmon fry sothick she couldn’t see through the cloud of fish, and multicoloured comb jellies withlights that rippled through them.This will be her 10th season harvesting from the same “garden.” Once harvested, she

hangs the kelp to dry on cedar racks in a garage she has converted to a licensedprocessing plant. Drying seaweed, she explains, is a bit of an art form. You’re reallycuring it, she tells me, and you need a controlled temperature and constant airflow.Swinimer combines her knowledge of marine biology with a passion for the

traditional use of native plants. When I ask her to tell me her favourite way to preparethe seaweed, she tells me of a First Nations method for wrapping salmon in winged kelpbefore baking. The kelp becomes a crispy shell while the fish stays incredibly moist.Swinimer harvests 20 kinds of seaweed for her family’s personal use and recommendsusing winged or bull kelp as a substitute for spinach in a vegetarian or seafood lasagna.Dakini Tidal Wild’s winged kelp is used to make the Cowichan Pasta Company’s WakameSpaghetti and is also served in dishes at Café Bliss. Her dried seaweed is available inindependent grocery stores throughout B.C., but also directly from her website. Swinimer, Carey and Bernard all encourage wild harvesting of seaweed, but each one

stresses that some knowledge of algae physiology is crucial to sustainable harvesting. Inaddition, you want to be sure you are harvesting from uncontaminated water. BothOuter Coast Seaweeds and Dakini Tidal Wilds offer educational tours and seminars. Visitwebsites for more information.

Westcoast Seaweed Inc., 3140 Cook St., Victoria, 250-812-6691, www.westcoastseaweed.com Outer Coast Seaweeds, 1-877-713-7464, www.sea-flora.com Dakini Tidal Wilds, 250-818-4633 www.dakinitidalwilds.com

BY REBECCA BAUGNIET

bull kelp (Nereocystis)

producer series

Three pioneers of the Island’s edible seaweed industry are harvesting these unique plants with care and commitment


Sea Veggies

For millennia, coastal inhabitants around the world have included avariety of edible seaweed in their diets. For contemporary urban dwellers,however, the only seaweed most of us have ever tasted is nori—the dark

green, papery sheets used to wrap sushi. The nori that we eat is imported from Asia,where there is a longstanding appreciation for sea vegetables and the manufacturing ofseaweed products is highly developed. While the coasts of British Columbia also sharea wealth of seaweed (more than 600 identified species according to Bamfield marinebotanist Louis Druehl in his book Pacific Seaweeds), sea vegetables remain a largelyuntapped resource in our kitchens. Not only are they incredibly versatile, flavourfulingredients, however. Seaweeds also offer unparalleled health benefits through theirconcentrated supply of minerals (high quality sodium chloride, iodine, iron, calciumand magnesium), nutrients (heart and liver strengthening phytochemicals) andvitamins (A, E, C, B2 and B15). Here on Vancouver Island, a former salmon fisherman, a politician and a marine

biologist are linked by a common dedication to these unique plants. All are pioneers inthe Island’s edible seaweed industry. Each has built their own successful, innovativebusiness around edible seaweeds and are introducing Canadians to more enticing waysto include local sea vegetables into their own diet.

Westcoast SeaweedBrad Carey is the founding owner of Westcoast Seaweed. The former salmon fishermanwas looking to expand his work season when he started harvesting sea cucumbers andscallops for North Douglas Distributors in 1991. It was there that he was first asked if hecould bring in some sea asparagus (salicornia virginica). Carey had never heard of theplant before but figured if it was in the ocean, he’d look for it. His employer explainedthat what he was looking for wouldn’t exactly be found in the ocean but where there wasa mix of fresh and salt water (intertidal marshes). After finding a suitable spot to harvest,Carey discovered that the work complemented the rest of his schedule—divers needdays on land to “off gas,” and on those days, he could harvest sea asparagus. After a fewyears of harvesting the plant for other distributors, Carey took some time away fromthe water to complete a few business courses at UVic. In 2001, he was ready to launchhis own business. Carey’s passion for sea asparagus is obvious—he describes himself as a “voice piece for

the plant.” “The variety we find off the coasts of B.C. belongs to the same scientific sub-family (Salicornioideae) as the plants known as ‘swampfire’ on the east coast of the U.S.,‘sampiere’ in France, and ‘samphire’ in the U.K. It has also been referred to as pickling-weed, or sea bean.” Recent research in the Gwaii Haanas Marine Area found evidencethat the Haida made intertidal gardens to collect a variety of plants and shellfish,including sea asparagus. Today, it is a specialty food, though Westcoast Seaweed is receiving increased interest

from home cooks wanting to experiment with the plant in their own kitchens. Seaasparagus can be served fresh, sautéed or pickled. It offers a pleasant alternative to othercrispy green vegetables such as green beans or asparagus and is a suitable accompanimentto seafood dishes. To reduce its salty flavour, Carey recommends quick blanching (30-45 seconds), warning against overcooking. Eighty percent of the sea asparagus heharvests is sold fresh to restaurants, with between 40 and 50 chefs requesting hisproduct throughout the summer season. The plant is harvested from the beginning ofJune through to the third week of August. The remaining 20 percent of his seasonalharvest is either pickled or pre-blanched and frozen. Westcoast Seaweed products areavailable in season at restaurants and specialty food shops, or direct from the onlinestore.

Outer Coast SeaweedsDiane Bernard is known by many simply as “the Seaweed Lady.” With a background incriminology, Bernard spent the early part of her career involved in politics. Always asocial activist, her focus was on local economic development, and she soon began tostudy the problems around the way we use our natural resources. In 1999, she decided

to apply the lessons she had been teaching to her own life – take a wild resource anddevelop it to its utmost potential (or, in economy-speak, “value add”). Seaweed was anatural choice for Bernard, who has roots in both the Magdalen Islands (Îles de laMadeleine) and a small Acadian community in New Brunswick. She still feels this strongmaritime family influence, and remembers how her aunt would serve favourite seaweedrecipes at the family table. In 2001, with six local chefs, including then Sooke HarbourHouse chef Edward Tuson, on board, Diane founded Outer Coast Seaweeds with the goalof providing wild seaweeds for culinary use. Her harvest has been served in raw seaweedsalads at the Sooke Harbour House, made into pesto and folded into bread at Cooper’sCove Guesthouse. Bernard cites Nancy Turner, an eminent ethnobotanist at UVic, as an excellent source

of knowledge as she was learning about the different plants. She also spent timeresearching local seaweed in the Royal British Columbia Museum archives. Ten yearslater, she spouts facts with ease (did you know that the bull kelp found off our coasts isthe fasting growing plant on earth? It can grow up to 30 metres in eleven months). Sheis also a frequent speaker at international algae society meetings.Outer Coast Seaweeds is the first USDA certified organic seaweed company in North

America. Diane explains how this certification process was unique, as seaweed has adifferent cell structure from land vegetation. Seaweed does not root; it has a holdfast, sothere is no exchange of nutrients from the soil and the plant, only between the waterand the plant. For this reason, the water must undergo testing on a regular basis. OuterCoast specializes in eight different kinds of edible seaweed, including sea lettuce (ulva),feather boa seaweed (Egregia menziesii) and winged kelp (Alaria marginata), and hasprovided seaweed to both the provincial and federal Government House kitchens forspecial occasions, including the emperor of Japan’s visit in 2009. Outer Coast is also theparent company for Sea Flora, a seaweed-based skincare line that Bernard refers to as“food for your skin.” In 2011, the company opened a brand-new seaweed processingfacility in Sooke.

Dakini Tidal WildsFrom May to October you can find Amanda Swinimer in the water harvesting twovarieties of kelp – winged kelp (Alaria marginata) and bull kelp (Nereocystis) for her home-based business, Dakini Tidal Wilds. Winged kelp involves wading in knee- to chest-deepwater at the lowest tides of the moon cycle, while to harvest the bull kelp she must swimoffshore. Both provide the opportunity for impressive encounters with nature. Inaddition to seeing orcas and stellar sea lions, Swinimer has swum with salmon fry sothick she couldn’t see through the cloud of fish, and multicoloured comb jellies withlights that rippled through them.This will be her 10th season harvesting from the same “garden.” Once harvested, she

hangs the kelp to dry on cedar racks in a garage she has converted to a licensedprocessing plant. Drying seaweed, she explains, is a bit of an art form. You’re reallycuring it, she tells me, and you need a controlled temperature and constant airflow.Swinimer combines her knowledge of marine biology with a passion for the

traditional use of native plants. When I ask her to tell me her favourite way to preparethe seaweed, she tells me of a First Nations method for wrapping salmon in winged kelpbefore baking. The kelp becomes a crispy shell while the fish stays incredibly moist.Swinimer harvests 20 kinds of seaweed for her family’s personal use and recommendsusing winged or bull kelp as a substitute for spinach in a vegetarian or seafood lasagna.Dakini Tidal Wild’s winged kelp is used to make the Cowichan Pasta Company’s WakameSpaghetti and is also served in dishes at Café Bliss. Her dried seaweed is available inindependent grocery stores throughout B.C., but also directly from her website. Swinimer, Carey and Bernard all encourage wild harvesting of seaweed, but each one

stresses that some knowledge of algae physiology is crucial to sustainable harvesting. Inaddition, you want to be sure you are harvesting from uncontaminated water. BothOuter Coast Seaweeds and Dakini Tidal Wilds offer educational tours and seminars. Visitwebsites for more information.

Westcoast Seaweed Inc., 3140 Cook St., Victoria, 250-812-6691, www.westcoastseaweed.com Outer Coast Seaweeds, 1-877-713-7464, www.sea-flora.com Dakini Tidal Wilds, 250-818-4633 www.dakinitidalwilds.com

BY REBECCA BAUGNIET

32 www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012

Text and food styling by DENISE MARCHESSAULT Photography by CAROLINE WEST

master cooking class

freshly baked gougèreswill have your kitchen smelling

like a bakery

appy hourSimple, savoury appetizers are anunfussed way to entertain a gang.

very Sunday I have guests for dinner—13 if you count the noisy kids.I don’t have a table long enough for all of us, so the giggly, lanky onessit at the table and the adults huddle around the kitchen island and we

sip, chat and nibble our way through an array of appetizers until dinner is ready.Often, appetizers are the dinner. Either way, it’s a loud, disorderly affair that I lookforward to each week because I’m enjoying my friends, not fussing over food. If you like low-maintenance entertaining, these simple appetizers just might

convince you to open your doors more often: fresh-from-the-oven gougères(pronounced goo-zhairs), fragrant marinated olives with goat cheese and beefcarpaccio with freshly dressed greens. Gougères are ingenious little pastries that are light and airy with a sweet and nutty

smack of gruyère cheese. Crisp on the outside, almost hollow on the inside, they aredelicious served warm, au naturel, or gussied up with a filling of shrimp and dill,curried chicken or smoked salmon to name but a few. Gougères are made from choux (pronounced shoe) pastry or pâte à choux. The

mixture, more of a sticky batter than malleable dough, is spooned onto a tray orpiped from a pastry bag (if you insist on perfectly shaped puffs), and baked. I freezethem unbaked and then bake them fresh before guests arrive for an “ohh” and“ahh” appetizer that will have your kitchen smelling like a bakery. Once you’ve mastered choux pastry, you can make all sorts of dangerous treats,

including Dauphine potatoes (mashed potatoes mixed with choux pastry and deep-fried—I warned you), Parisienne-style gnocchi, cream-filled profiteroles, éclairs andbeignets. There’s even a choux-based cake, Gâteau St. Honeré, affectionately namedafter the patron saint of bakers. There isn’t a more versatile dough. If you don’t consider olives a worthy appetizer, warm, marinated olives infused

with chilies, herbs, citrus and spice will change your mind. Gently heating the olivesin oil intensifies their flavour and imbues them with aromatics that have beenknown to convert olive skeptics into olive lovers. I keep a large Mason jar ofmarinated olives in my fridge ready to reheat whenever guests show up at my door.The olives keep for ages and the flavoured oil is enough reason to keep it on hand;

I use it for salad dressings, roast potatoes, crostini and anything else that needs apotent earthy boost. Goat cheese and olives are a delicious duo, especially whenthe cheese (room temperature, please) is drizzled with oil steeped with mustardseeds, fennel, thyme and peppercorns. Served with a baguette or crackers, thisappetizer never fails to please.Think carpaccio of beef is for restaurants only? I serve it for impromptu kitchen

parties because nothing could be easier, and there’s no special equipment involved,other than a sharp knife and some plastic wrap. Simply slice a small piece of rawbeef tenderloin, place it between two sheets of plastic wrap and gently pound thebeef (the bottom of a small saucepan does nicely) until the tenderloin is paper-thin.Remove the top layer of plastic and invert the exposed beef onto a plate. This canbe done hours in advance and stored in the refrigerator until ready to use. Justbefore serving, each fillet is topped with a simple salad, shaved Parmesan, freshlycracked black pepper and a pinch of fleur de sel. Even if your guests are squeamishabout rare meat, one bite of the sweet, melt-in-the-mouth fillet will change theirminds and have them marvelling at your ingenuity.With appetizers like these, you’ll find lots of excuses to invite guests over.

33www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012

Text and food styling by DENISE MARCHESSAULT Photography by CAROLINE WEST

FIND THE RECIPES ON THE FOLLOWING PAGES

WINE PAIRINGAppetizers and sparkling go together like salt and pepper. If you’re feeling flush,you can’t go wrong with champagne. If you’re feeling flat, look to Cava or Prosecco.Of course, you shouldn’t skip over BC’s sparkling wines – crisp examples fromVancouver and the Gulf Islands, the Fraser Valley and the Okanagan would bringthis global appetizer class back home.—Treve Ring

fragrant marinatedolives with goat cheese

appy hourSimple, savoury appetizers are anunfussed way to entertain a gang.

E

Pour about a third of a cup of the warm, herb-infused oil into a separate smallsaucepan. Lightly crush the mustard, fennel and peppercorns and add them, alongwith the thyme, to the oil. Allow the herbs to infuse the oil, on low heat, approxi-mately 15 minutes. Allow to cool slightly*. Place the goat cheese in the centre of a small platter and surround it with the mar-

inated olives. Pour the oil and crushed herbs over the cheese. Garnish the platter withthe marinated peppers, lemon peel and rosemary. Serve with a baguette or crackers.*The oil marinade should not be warm enough to melt the cheese.

Carpaccio de Boeuf Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer.

7 oz beef tenderloin fillet, chilledSalad greens

Dressing½ cup grapeseed oil and 2 Tbsp white wine vinegar1 Tbsp shallots, sliced3.5 oz Parmesan shavingsFreshly ground pepperFleur de sel

Using a sharp knife, carefully cut the chilled beef into thin slices. Place the sliced beefon a sheet of plastic wrap and cover with another layer of plastic wrap. Gently poundthe beef (the bottom of a pot works well) to flatten the meat until it is paper-thin. Re-move the top layer of plastic and invert the exposed beef onto a plate. If you are notserving immediately, leave on the (remaining) plastic wrap until ready to serve. (Thiscan be done hours in advance and stored in the refrigerator until ready to use.) Just before serving, remove the plastic wrap from each fillet. Whisk the grapeseed oil

and vinegar together. Top each fillet with a simple salad dressed with the vinaigrette,sliced shallots, shaved Parmesan, freshly cracked black pepper and a pinch of fleur desel.

Gougères Makes about 45 gougères.

¾ cup milk¾ cup water ¾ cup plus 1 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into cubes2 tsp salt2½ tsp sugar2 cups flour 4 - 5 eggs 1 cup grated Gruyère cheese, more or less if desired1 egg, slightly beaten, for egg washDisposable piping bag fitted with a plain pastry tip (optional)Baking sheet lined with parchment or Silpat

Preheat oven to 375°F.In a medium-sized saucepan, combine the milk, water, butter, salt and sugar. Bring

the mixture to a full boil. Remove from the heat and add the flour all at once and stirvigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a ball and pulls away fromthe sides of the pan.If using a stand-up mixer, transfer the dough to the mixer fitted with the paddle at-

tachment. If mixing by hand, use a wooden spoon. Add the eggs to the dough, one ata time, ensuring each egg is well incorporated before adding another. You may notneed all five eggs. After the fourth egg has been incorporated, check the consistencyof the dough: the mixture is ready when the dough forms a thick ribbon from yourspoon, or paddle. If the mixture is too firm, add another egg. Add the grated cheese.If using a pastry bag, spoon the dough into a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip. Pipe

round mounds about 1½ inches in diameter onto a lined baking sheet, leaving aninch or two between each mound. (If not using a pastry bag, simply spoon the doughonto a lined baking sheet.) Brush the top of each mound with the beaten egg. Note:if using a pastry bag, each mound of dough will have a small peak created by the pip-ing tip (think soft ice cream)—gently press down the peak with a fork or fingertip tocreate a smooth mound.Set aside for 15 minutes before baking.Reduce the temperature to 350°F and bake for about 20 to 30 minutes, rotating the

pans halfway through the baking. Test one gougère to ensure it is cooked in the cen-tre. If the mixture is cooked on the outside, but not the inside, turn the oven off andleave the pastries in until cooked all the way through. Watch carefully, as your ovenwill still be hot. Remove to a rack to cool slightly before serving.

Marinated Olives and Goat CheeseServes 8 to 10.

Olive Marinade 2 cups assorted olives 1 cup extra virgin olive oil2 sprigs each of rosemary and thyme2 fresh red chilies 4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 2 bay leaves2 large pieces lemon peel from a clean, organic lemon

Cheese Marinade1 tsp mustard seeds1 tsp fennel seeds1 Tbsp peppercorns 1 tsp dried thyme1/2 lb soft goat cheese, at room temperature

Place the olive marinade ingredients in a medium saucepan and warm over low heatuntil aromatic, approximately 30 to 40 minutes.


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beef carpaccio is simple to make at home

Pour about a third of a cup of the warm, herb-infused oil into a separate smallsaucepan. Lightly crush the mustard, fennel and peppercorns and add them, alongwith the thyme, to the oil. Allow the herbs to infuse the oil, on low heat, approxi-mately 15 minutes. Allow to cool slightly*. Place the goat cheese in the centre of a small platter and surround it with the mar-

inated olives. Pour the oil and crushed herbs over the cheese. Garnish the platter withthe marinated peppers, lemon peel and rosemary. Serve with a baguette or crackers.*The oil marinade should not be warm enough to melt the cheese.

Carpaccio de Boeuf Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer.

7 oz beef tenderloin fillet, chilledSalad greens

Dressing½ cup grapeseed oil and 2 Tbsp white wine vinegar1 Tbsp shallots, sliced3.5 oz Parmesan shavingsFreshly ground pepperFleur de sel

Using a sharp knife, carefully cut the chilled beef into thin slices. Place the sliced beefon a sheet of plastic wrap and cover with another layer of plastic wrap. Gently poundthe beef (the bottom of a pot works well) to flatten the meat until it is paper-thin. Re-move the top layer of plastic and invert the exposed beef onto a plate. If you are notserving immediately, leave on the (remaining) plastic wrap until ready to serve. (Thiscan be done hours in advance and stored in the refrigerator until ready to use.) Just before serving, remove the plastic wrap from each fillet. Whisk the grapeseed oil

and vinegar together. Top each fillet with a simple salad dressed with the vinaigrette,sliced shallots, shaved Parmesan, freshly cracked black pepper and a pinch of fleur desel.

Gougères Makes about 45 gougères.

¾ cup milk¾ cup water ¾ cup plus 1 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into cubes2 tsp salt2½ tsp sugar2 cups flour 4 - 5 eggs 1 cup grated Gruyère cheese, more or less if desired1 egg, slightly beaten, for egg washDisposable piping bag fitted with a plain pastry tip (optional)Baking sheet lined with parchment or Silpat

Preheat oven to 375°F.In a medium-sized saucepan, combine the milk, water, butter, salt and sugar. Bring

the mixture to a full boil. Remove from the heat and add the flour all at once and stirvigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a ball and pulls away fromthe sides of the pan.If using a stand-up mixer, transfer the dough to the mixer fitted with the paddle at-

tachment. If mixing by hand, use a wooden spoon. Add the eggs to the dough, one ata time, ensuring each egg is well incorporated before adding another. You may notneed all five eggs. After the fourth egg has been incorporated, check the consistencyof the dough: the mixture is ready when the dough forms a thick ribbon from yourspoon, or paddle. If the mixture is too firm, add another egg. Add the grated cheese.If using a pastry bag, spoon the dough into a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip. Pipe

round mounds about 1½ inches in diameter onto a lined baking sheet, leaving aninch or two between each mound. (If not using a pastry bag, simply spoon the doughonto a lined baking sheet.) Brush the top of each mound with the beaten egg. Note:if using a pastry bag, each mound of dough will have a small peak created by the pip-ing tip (think soft ice cream)—gently press down the peak with a fork or fingertip tocreate a smooth mound.Set aside for 15 minutes before baking.Reduce the temperature to 350°F and bake for about 20 to 30 minutes, rotating the

pans halfway through the baking. Test one gougère to ensure it is cooked in the cen-tre. If the mixture is cooked on the outside, but not the inside, turn the oven off andleave the pastries in until cooked all the way through. Watch carefully, as your ovenwill still be hot. Remove to a rack to cool slightly before serving.

Marinated Olives and Goat CheeseServes 8 to 10.

Olive Marinade 2 cups assorted olives 1 cup extra virgin olive oil2 sprigs each of rosemary and thyme2 fresh red chilies 4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 2 bay leaves2 large pieces lemon peel from a clean, organic lemon

Cheese Marinade1 tsp mustard seeds1 tsp fennel seeds1 Tbsp peppercorns 1 tsp dried thyme1/2 lb soft goat cheese, at room temperature

Place the olive marinade ingredients in a medium saucepan and warm over low heatuntil aromatic, approximately 30 to 40 minutes.


beef carpaccio is simple to make at home


When you’ve tasted all the wine, come and try some spirits.

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Whether it’s a favourite watering hole-in-the-wall or a great spot to not be seen(being seen is so last decade), look no further than the group of jam-packed blocksthat call themselves the down of town.

BreakfastIn the 500 block of Bernard Street is the sunshine-y Bohemian Café & CateringCompany. Entirely worth standing in line for, sharing a table, or queuing up at thecash register. Bennies, omelettes, granola, or a side of bacon (you know you want it),this is free-range, homemade, and all delicious. Busy in there? Really, share a table.You’ll meet great people. Near the Bohemian is the Mad Mango Café. Okay, the secretis already out with this one – but it’s really tasty.Also doing the breakfast/lunch thing on the must-eat-this-food list is The Bread

Company (frittata!) on Bernard, Duncan’s Bistro (panini!) on Lawrence Ave, and TheBike Shop Café & Catering on Ellis Street – hello, $5 breakfast sandwiches. Aforementioned spots aside, there’s also a burgeoning coffee scene in the city of

Kelowna. Words like ‘fair trade’ and ‘locally roasted’ roll off the tip of the tongue.Great places to grab a good cuppa are The Bean Scene Coffee House (200 block ofBernard) with their comfy sofas and vintage sideboard, and GiObean Espresso (self-proclaimed “coffee the Italian way”) a bit farther along Water Street. And in the newlyreclaimed area of Ellis Street is The Cannery Coffee Company, providing a touch ofsophistication at midday.We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention the Streaming Café (500 block Leon Ave). They

take two things very seriously: java, and sharing tunes. A stellar coffee house by daybecomes a sweet spot to catch live music on Saturday nights. Best of both worlds.

LunchTo funk things up, there’s The Rotten Grape Wine & Tapas Bar in the heart of thingson Bernard Street. Fun, easy, and uber-cool, the Rotten Grape is the place to be toshare small plates and sip local wines; it’s now open for both lunch and dinner. A fewblocks away, find the Green Room Bistro (Ellis Street) in the heart of the Arts District–with its awesome patio, local wine list and the Okanagan’s only singing servers. Back on Bernard Street, Soban Korean Bistro (500 Block) serves up delectable fish

tacos or Korean B-bop. The Twisted Tomato (300 Block) does a cool lunch, delectabledinner, and that rare thing called brunch – when it’s socially acceptable to bubble-up your OJ. No judgement here. And the best spot to grab some good barbeque (andhave a nip of bourbon) has to be the Vancouver-originated Memphis Blues BBQHouse. (300 block)

DinnerWasabi Izakaya on Pandosy can satisfy your sushi craving – and then some. Atraditional “Izakaya” (loosely translated as a Japanese version of tapas), Wasabiprovides several excuses to linger as the plates keep coming. On Ellis Street (1300-1400 Block), find La Bussola (Italian fine dining), the newly

renovated Dawett (Indian cuisine) or catch dinner-and-a-show at the Kelowna Actor’sStudio. Home grown talent from kitchen to stage.Local, sustainable, innovative, communal – all are apt words to describe RauDZ in

the 1500 block of Water Street. With mixologists crafting the finest cocktails and chefRod Butters keeping a keen eye on what’s in season, RauDZ is a great place to feel thelocal vibe – especially at their communal table. If you’re looking for French cuisine, then Bouchon’s on Sunset Drive (a 2 minute

walk from the Delta) might be for you. This classic brasserie offers familiar dishes likefois gras, bouillabaise, and organic chicken coq-au-vin, among other tasty delicacies.Dinners only, with a killer wine list and magnetic ambiance. Another favouriteKelowna haunt on Sunset is Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar. Fresh from asubstantial renovation (twice the original size), more fans can now sample the inspiredlocal flavours of Chef Mark Filatow. —By Jeannette Montgomery

DESTINATION: KELOWNAYour good-eats-guide to downtown K-town

When you’ve tasted all the wine, come and try some spirits.

Fruit Liqueurs Fruit Spirits/Eau de Vie Absinthe Gin WhiskyAward-Winning Premium Craft Distillery O�ering Tours & Tastings


Downtown Vernon Distillery - 2920-28th Avenue 250-549-3120

Downtown Kelowna Distillery - 267 Bernard Ave. 778-484-5174

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Whether it’s a favourite watering hole-in-the-wall or a great spot to not be seen(being seen is so last decade), look no further than the group of jam-packed blocksthat call themselves the down of town.

BreakfastIn the 500 block of Bernard Street is the sunshine-y Bohemian Café & CateringCompany. Entirely worth standing in line for, sharing a table, or queuing up at thecash register. Bennies, omelettes, granola, or a side of bacon (you know you want it),this is free-range, homemade, and all delicious. Busy in there? Really, share a table.You’ll meet great people. Near the Bohemian is the Mad Mango Café. Okay, the secretis already out with this one – but it’s really tasty.Also doing the breakfast/lunch thing on the must-eat-this-food list is The Bread

Company (frittata!) on Bernard, Duncan’s Bistro (panini!) on Lawrence Ave, and TheBike Shop Café & Catering on Ellis Street – hello, $5 breakfast sandwiches. Aforementioned spots aside, there’s also a burgeoning coffee scene in the city of

Kelowna. Words like ‘fair trade’ and ‘locally roasted’ roll off the tip of the tongue.Great places to grab a good cuppa are The Bean Scene Coffee House (200 block ofBernard) with their comfy sofas and vintage sideboard, and GiObean Espresso (self-proclaimed “coffee the Italian way”) a bit farther along Water Street. And in the newlyreclaimed area of Ellis Street is The Cannery Coffee Company, providing a touch ofsophistication at midday.We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention the Streaming Café (500 block Leon Ave). They

take two things very seriously: java, and sharing tunes. A stellar coffee house by daybecomes a sweet spot to catch live music on Saturday nights. Best of both worlds.

LunchTo funk things up, there’s The Rotten Grape Wine & Tapas Bar in the heart of thingson Bernard Street. Fun, easy, and uber-cool, the Rotten Grape is the place to be toshare small plates and sip local wines; it’s now open for both lunch and dinner. A fewblocks away, find the Green Room Bistro (Ellis Street) in the heart of the Arts District–with its awesome patio, local wine list and the Okanagan’s only singing servers. Back on Bernard Street, Soban Korean Bistro (500 Block) serves up delectable fish

tacos or Korean B-bop. The Twisted Tomato (300 Block) does a cool lunch, delectabledinner, and that rare thing called brunch – when it’s socially acceptable to bubble-up your OJ. No judgement here. And the best spot to grab some good barbeque (andhave a nip of bourbon) has to be the Vancouver-originated Memphis Blues BBQHouse. (300 block)

DinnerWasabi Izakaya on Pandosy can satisfy your sushi craving – and then some. Atraditional “Izakaya” (loosely translated as a Japanese version of tapas), Wasabiprovides several excuses to linger as the plates keep coming. On Ellis Street (1300-1400 Block), find La Bussola (Italian fine dining), the newly

renovated Dawett (Indian cuisine) or catch dinner-and-a-show at the Kelowna Actor’sStudio. Home grown talent from kitchen to stage.Local, sustainable, innovative, communal – all are apt words to describe RauDZ in

the 1500 block of Water Street. With mixologists crafting the finest cocktails and chefRod Butters keeping a keen eye on what’s in season, RauDZ is a great place to feel thelocal vibe – especially at their communal table. If you’re looking for French cuisine, then Bouchon’s on Sunset Drive (a 2 minute

walk from the Delta) might be for you. This classic brasserie offers familiar dishes likefois gras, bouillabaise, and organic chicken coq-au-vin, among other tasty delicacies.Dinners only, with a killer wine list and magnetic ambiance. Another favouriteKelowna haunt on Sunset is Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar. Fresh from asubstantial renovation (twice the original size), more fans can now sample the inspiredlocal flavours of Chef Mark Filatow. —By Jeannette Montgomery

DESTINATION: KELOWNAYour good-eats-guide to downtown K-town Photo courtesy of K

elowna Tourism

Like fashion, wine goes through trends but we are often more reluctantto embrace something new. While there is nothing wrong with Pinot Grigio andMalbec, there are plenty of other fascinating wines that deserve your attention. Oneof our greatest pleasures when travelling to cutting edge cities is visiting places likeTerroir in San Francisco or Bar Jamón in New York to discover the latest in wine. Butyou don’t have to jump on a plane to find something fun to drink. British Columbiais filled with passionate people who import and list great wine. We asked topsommeliers and wine buyers what excites them these days.With its enormous variety of grapes and regions, Italy is an endless source of

discovery. While once associated with bulk production and plonk wine, southern Italyis really starting to reveal its potential. “Unique wines with character are what exciteme,” enthuses Terry Threlfall, sommelier at Hawksworth restaurant, “and Italy is thefirst place that comes to mind, especially Sicily. They are now producing somewonderful wines.” Sicily’s indigenous varieties are the perfect vehicle to express thecountry’s unique terroir. Fear not their unfamiliar names. Flagship grape Nero d’Avolahas already become a fixture on our shelves, and Nerello Mascalese from the slopes ofMount Etna has trickled in more recently. Ever heard of Frappato? Michaela wasraving about it when she returned from her travels in Sicily last year. Threlfall recentlyadded the Frappato from COS to his wine list so now you can actually taste this well-kept secret. Threlfall is equally passionate about Spain, specifically citing the regions of Bierzo,

Toro and Ribera del Duero. This is a reflection of the recent revival of forgotten grapesand regions. Dedicated producers, like Telmo Rodríguez, are passionate about bring-ing abandoned vineyards back to life. He is also encouraging local workers who knowthe area like the back of their hand to join his crusade. He has made inroads in Málagaas well as Cebreros in the Castilla y León area. From Cebreros, watch for his PegasoGranito, made from 100 percent Garnacha vines planted at high altitudes. Note, thereare no cars there apparently, just donkeys. Talk about reviving abandoned areas!Neighbouring Portugal is just as exciting and value and charm never lack. The region

of Vinho Verde is known for cheap and cheerful wine. While we love them; we’reanxious to see more of the higher quality wines. A recent tasting with Rui Falcão, awine writer and ambassador for Portuguese wines, reminded us that a more sophisti-cated side of Vinho Verde does exist. As for Portugal’s reds, names of indigenousvarieties like Castelão and Touriga Nacional don’t roll off the tongue, but don’t letthat deter you. It’s all about the character they deliver in the glass. While we wait formore of these wines to grace our shelves, you can start practising these names whilesipping on Crasto’s Old Vines Reserva from the Douro region.Cool and hip doesn’t necessarily mean obscure. In New World countries, savvy wine-

makers are looking beyond the varieties that made them famous and exploring newregions. In Chile (where Cabernet Sauvignon reigns king), the latest buzz is Syrahplanted in the northern valleys of Elqui and Límari. Pamela Sanderson, regionalmanager for Cascadia Liquor in Victoria, reminds us that you don’t have to look faraway to stay on top of the trends. While the Okanagan Valley dominates the winescene here in B.C., she shines the spotlight on Pinot Noir from Vancouver Island andbeyond. “There are too many wines to list that I like from Saanich, the Gulf Islandsand the Cowichan Valley, but for me, 2009 really stood out!” In particular, Sandersonrecommends Averill Creek and Starling Lane. True to fashion’s ebbs and flows, certain wines that were once all the rage have

become passé. Luckily, some favourites from the past have enjoyed a revamp and aregaining the support of the trade. “I’m loving the rebirth, resurgence and re-acquain-tance of two maligned, misunderstood and misrepresented giants: Beaujolais andAustralia,” asserts Neil Ingram, sommelier and co-owner of Boneta restaurant. “Bothhad a reputation for industrial plonk, not unjustified from the old selection on ourshelves; both are now trotting out delightful, focused and affordable wines.” We could-


Vino in VogueThe wine world is continually offering up new experiences,but we have to put aside our favourites to sample them.

wine + terroir - By Michelle Bouffard and Michaela Morris


n’t agree more. Beaujolais’ image suffered from its Nouveau category. However, theregion boasts many serious and delightful wines beyond. Barbara Philip, MW (Masterof Wine) and portfolio manager for the wines of Europe at the BC Liquor DistributionBranch, has championed the region’s best examples: Cru Beaujolais. “I love them all:from Fleurie and St. Amour to the more powerful Morgons and Moulin à Vents. The2009s really caught my attention with their red fruits, exotic herbal aromas and silkytannins, and it looks like the juicy 2010s are going to be excellent as well.” Thefantastic selection on the shelves reflects her enthusiasm.Rhys Pender, MW, a wine educator and owner of Wine Plus in the Okanagan,

expands on Ingram’s allusion to Australia’s renaissance. He recently returned fromAustralia and is raving about: “Tasmania. Racy Riesling, elegant flavoursome, complexPinot Noir. And Canberra for Shiraz and Riesling. Underrated but fantastic.” We hopeto see more wines from these areas soon. In the meantime, we’ll content ourselveswith Chardonnay. Once known for an over-oaked and pedestrian style, Australia hasstepped up and is now recognized for making some of the best Chardonnay in theworld. Skeptical? Get some fresh crab and open a bottle of Shaw & Smith M3, PenfoldsYattarna or Xanadu Next of Kin.Wine trends don’t just apply to grapes and regions. Different styles of wine have

their moment in the sun, some quite literally. Global warming combined with thetrend of picking grapes later has resulted in a huge increase of wines with over 13.5percent alcohol. Wine drinkers were lapping it up, but a backlash against highalcohol wines has begun. Being lightweights, we welcome lower alcohol wines andwe’re not alone. Mark Filatow, chef and sommelier at Waterfront Restaurant and WineBar says, “Whether it’s snappy Chenins from Loire, Cab Francs and Gamays made herein B.C., I’ve had some amazing small production wines from here and beyond that ringin at 12.5 percent or less. Refreshing. My head agrees.” Ours too! Lighter reds are also capturing the attention of wine experts. Whether it be Frappato

or Beaujolais, people see a value at the table. Wine is meant to accompany food andthese gems are suited for it. Frances Sidhe, sommelier at Zambri’s restaurant inVictoria, sees a change: “When we first opened Zambri’s twelve years ago it was hardto convince many of our customers to try Italian wines, especially those which werelighter and more acidic. Now, they come in and ask for them. It makes my job somuch easier because there are so many beautiful Italian wines made in just this style.”Inspired to try something new but don’t know where to begin? Plunk yourself down

at the bar of your favourite local restaurant and ask the sommelier to guide you along.Happy discovering!

APPROACH THE BENCHHester Creek Estate Wineryproudly presents The Judge

A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Extensive barrel aging delivers a wine that is complex, big and bold.

www.hestercreek.com

TASTING NOTESReds2007 Falernia, Syrah Reserva, Elqui Valley,Chile $18-21 (SKU #147819) Check out Chile’s exciting Syrahs at theVancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival.Or, pick up a bottle of the Falernia. Violets, redcurrant and black pepper notes with a lovelyelegance to it.

2010 Christophe Pacalet, Beaujolais-VillagesAOC, France, $23-28 (SKU #15800)A testament to the quality of wine the region canproduce. Beautiful lifted floral aromas with freshcherry notes. Enjoy with chicken, pork or salmon.

2009 Alvaro Palacios, ‘Petalos’ Bierzo DO,Spain, $30-35 (SKU #879221)Mencía is the grape behind this pretty and exoticred. Wild aromas of plum and violet with pleasantnotes of black licorice. Very sensual. Perfect forgame meat.

2010 Azienda Agricola COS, Frappato,Sicilia IGT, Italy, $33-38 (SKU# 191270)Simple yet oh-so charming. Pure flavours ofcherries and cranberries with a silky texture.Serve with a heaping plate of sweetbreads andmushrooms.

2008 Quinta do Crasto, Old Vines Reserva,Douro DO, $43-49 (SKU #489211)Full bodied with firm tannin and concentratednotes of leather, cassis and minerals. Decant andserve with a serious piece of red meat.

Whites2009 Xanadu, Next of Kin, Chardonnay,Margaret River, Australia $17-19*Luscious mango and pineapple flavours balancedby vibrant key lime pie notes. The perfect matchwith roasted chicken and richer seafood.

2009 Vincent Raimbault Vouvray AOC,France, $24-28 (SKU# 127019)A great Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley.Piercing flavours of quince, lemon and mushroom.Indulge in rillettes.

2009 Telmo Rodriguez, ‘Gaba do Xil’Godello, Valdeorras DO, Spain $26-30*A fine example of the characterful Godellogrape, which has seen a revival in theValdeorras region. Rich yet vibrant with notes oflime and guava. Serve with pan-fried white fish.

2009 Pewsey Vale, Riesling, Eden Valley,Australia $27-32*Pretty peach and lemon aromas. This dry Rieslingenchants with lime sorbet, stone, mineral andlip-smacking acidity. We can’t wait for spot prawnseason!

Like fashion, wine goes through trends but we are often more reluctantto embrace something new. While there is nothing wrong with Pinot Grigio andMalbec, there are plenty of other fascinating wines that deserve your attention. Oneof our greatest pleasures when travelling to cutting edge cities is visiting places likeTerroir in San Francisco or Bar Jamón in New York to discover the latest in wine. Butyou don’t have to jump on a plane to find something fun to drink. British Columbiais filled with passionate people who import and list great wine. We asked topsommeliers and wine buyers what excites them these days.With its enormous variety of grapes and regions, Italy is an endless source of

discovery. While once associated with bulk production and plonk wine, southern Italyis really starting to reveal its potential. “Unique wines with character are what exciteme,” enthuses Terry Threlfall, sommelier at Hawksworth restaurant, “and Italy is thefirst place that comes to mind, especially Sicily. They are now producing somewonderful wines.” Sicily’s indigenous varieties are the perfect vehicle to express thecountry’s unique terroir. Fear not their unfamiliar names. Flagship grape Nero d’Avolahas already become a fixture on our shelves, and Nerello Mascalese from the slopes ofMount Etna has trickled in more recently. Ever heard of Frappato? Michaela wasraving about it when she returned from her travels in Sicily last year. Threlfall recentlyadded the Frappato from COS to his wine list so now you can actually taste this well-kept secret. Threlfall is equally passionate about Spain, specifically citing the regions of Bierzo,

Toro and Ribera del Duero. This is a reflection of the recent revival of forgotten grapesand regions. Dedicated producers, like Telmo Rodríguez, are passionate about bring-ing abandoned vineyards back to life. He is also encouraging local workers who knowthe area like the back of their hand to join his crusade. He has made inroads in Málagaas well as Cebreros in the Castilla y León area. From Cebreros, watch for his PegasoGranito, made from 100 percent Garnacha vines planted at high altitudes. Note, thereare no cars there apparently, just donkeys. Talk about reviving abandoned areas!Neighbouring Portugal is just as exciting and value and charm never lack. The region

of Vinho Verde is known for cheap and cheerful wine. While we love them; we’reanxious to see more of the higher quality wines. A recent tasting with Rui Falcão, awine writer and ambassador for Portuguese wines, reminded us that a more sophisti-cated side of Vinho Verde does exist. As for Portugal’s reds, names of indigenousvarieties like Castelão and Touriga Nacional don’t roll off the tongue, but don’t letthat deter you. It’s all about the character they deliver in the glass. While we wait formore of these wines to grace our shelves, you can start practising these names whilesipping on Crasto’s Old Vines Reserva from the Douro region.Cool and hip doesn’t necessarily mean obscure. In New World countries, savvy wine-

makers are looking beyond the varieties that made them famous and exploring newregions. In Chile (where Cabernet Sauvignon reigns king), the latest buzz is Syrahplanted in the northern valleys of Elqui and Límari. Pamela Sanderson, regionalmanager for Cascadia Liquor in Victoria, reminds us that you don’t have to look faraway to stay on top of the trends. While the Okanagan Valley dominates the winescene here in B.C., she shines the spotlight on Pinot Noir from Vancouver Island andbeyond. “There are too many wines to list that I like from Saanich, the Gulf Islandsand the Cowichan Valley, but for me, 2009 really stood out!” In particular, Sandersonrecommends Averill Creek and Starling Lane. True to fashion’s ebbs and flows, certain wines that were once all the rage have

become passé. Luckily, some favourites from the past have enjoyed a revamp and aregaining the support of the trade. “I’m loving the rebirth, resurgence and re-acquain-tance of two maligned, misunderstood and misrepresented giants: Beaujolais andAustralia,” asserts Neil Ingram, sommelier and co-owner of Boneta restaurant. “Bothhad a reputation for industrial plonk, not unjustified from the old selection on ourshelves; both are now trotting out delightful, focused and affordable wines.” We could-

Vino in VogueThe wine world is continually offering up new experiences,but we have to put aside our favourites to sample them.

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n’t agree more. Beaujolais’ image suffered from its Nouveau category. However, theregion boasts many serious and delightful wines beyond. Barbara Philip, MW (Masterof Wine) and portfolio manager for the wines of Europe at the BC Liquor DistributionBranch, has championed the region’s best examples: Cru Beaujolais. “I love them all:from Fleurie and St. Amour to the more powerful Morgons and Moulin à Vents. The2009s really caught my attention with their red fruits, exotic herbal aromas and silkytannins, and it looks like the juicy 2010s are going to be excellent as well.” Thefantastic selection on the shelves reflects her enthusiasm.Rhys Pender, MW, a wine educator and owner of Wine Plus in the Okanagan,

expands on Ingram’s allusion to Australia’s renaissance. He recently returned fromAustralia and is raving about: “Tasmania. Racy Riesling, elegant flavoursome, complexPinot Noir. And Canberra for Shiraz and Riesling. Underrated but fantastic.” We hopeto see more wines from these areas soon. In the meantime, we’ll content ourselveswith Chardonnay. Once known for an over-oaked and pedestrian style, Australia hasstepped up and is now recognized for making some of the best Chardonnay in theworld. Skeptical? Get some fresh crab and open a bottle of Shaw & Smith M3, PenfoldsYattarna or Xanadu Next of Kin.Wine trends don’t just apply to grapes and regions. Different styles of wine have

their moment in the sun, some quite literally. Global warming combined with thetrend of picking grapes later has resulted in a huge increase of wines with over 13.5percent alcohol. Wine drinkers were lapping it up, but a backlash against highalcohol wines has begun. Being lightweights, we welcome lower alcohol wines andwe’re not alone. Mark Filatow, chef and sommelier at Waterfront Restaurant and WineBar says, “Whether it’s snappy Chenins from Loire, Cab Francs and Gamays made herein B.C., I’ve had some amazing small production wines from here and beyond that ringin at 12.5 percent or less. Refreshing. My head agrees.” Ours too! Lighter reds are also capturing the attention of wine experts. Whether it be Frappato

or Beaujolais, people see a value at the table. Wine is meant to accompany food andthese gems are suited for it. Frances Sidhe, sommelier at Zambri’s restaurant inVictoria, sees a change: “When we first opened Zambri’s twelve years ago it was hardto convince many of our customers to try Italian wines, especially those which werelighter and more acidic. Now, they come in and ask for them. It makes my job somuch easier because there are so many beautiful Italian wines made in just this style.”Inspired to try something new but don’t know where to begin? Plunk yourself down

at the bar of your favourite local restaurant and ask the sommelier to guide you along.Happy discovering!

TASTING NOTESReds2007 Falernia, Syrah Reserva, Elqui Valley,Chile $18-21 (SKU #147819) Check out Chile’s exciting Syrahs at theVancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival.Or, pick up a bottle of the Falernia. Violets, redcurrant and black pepper notes with a lovelyelegance to it.

2010 Christophe Pacalet, Beaujolais-VillagesAOC, France, $23-28 (SKU #15800)A testament to the quality of wine the region canproduce. Beautiful lifted floral aromas with freshcherry notes. Enjoy with chicken, pork or salmon.

2009 Alvaro Palacios, ‘Petalos’ Bierzo DO,Spain, $30-35 (SKU #879221)Mencía is the grape behind this pretty and exoticred. Wild aromas of plum and violet with pleasantnotes of black licorice. Very sensual. Perfect forgame meat.

2010 Azienda Agricola COS, Frappato,Sicilia IGT, Italy, $33-38 (SKU# 191270)Simple yet oh-so charming. Pure flavours ofcherries and cranberries with a silky texture.Serve with a heaping plate of sweetbreads andmushrooms.

2008 Quinta do Crasto, Old Vines Reserva,Douro DO, $43-49 (SKU #489211)Full bodied with firm tannin and concentratednotes of leather, cassis and minerals. Decant andserve with a serious piece of red meat.

Whites2009 Xanadu, Next of Kin, Chardonnay,Margaret River, Australia $17-19*Luscious mango and pineapple flavours balancedby vibrant key lime pie notes. The perfect matchwith roasted chicken and richer seafood.

2009 Vincent Raimbault Vouvray AOC,France, $24-28 (SKU# 127019)A great Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley.Piercing flavours of quince, lemon and mushroom.Indulge in rillettes.

2009 Telmo Rodriguez, ‘Gaba do Xil’Godello, Valdeorras DO, Spain $26-30*A fine example of the characterful Godellogrape, which has seen a revival in theValdeorras region. Rich yet vibrant with notes oflime and guava. Serve with pan-fried white fish.

2009 Pewsey Vale, Riesling, Eden Valley,Australia $27-32*Pretty peach and lemon aromas. This dry Rieslingenchants with lime sorbet, stone, mineral andlip-smacking acidity. We can’t wait for spot prawnseason!


liquid assets —by Larry Arnold

RED WINECal Y Canto Full Red 2009 Spain $12.00-15.00

An incredible bargain. The blend includes Tempranillo, Merlot & Syrah sourced fromfruit grown on the high plains of Spain’s great central plateau; La Mancha. Dark androbustly flavoured with bright cherry, earth and spice flavours that persist throughthe finish. For immediate, easy pleasure.

Alderlea Pinot Noir Reserve 2007 Vancouver Island $32.00-37.00

Deep, generous nose, classic Pinot Noir, island Pinot Noir. No brett here just ripe, cleanfruit: cherry, cassis, spice and autumn leaves. Mouth-filling texture, everything is herebut it still needs time. Lovely balance.

Josef Chromy Pinot Noir 2009 Australia $30.00-33.00

Chromy’s Pinot Noir is sourced from fruit grown on the estate vineyard at Relbia at thenorthern end of Tasmania. The wine is darkly coloured with a generous bouquet of redfruit and expensive French oak. Complex with ample fruit, fine grained tannins anda muscular structure. Although approachable now this pinot is no gay little charmer;it has a dark side that after a glass or two kind of grows on you.

Bodega Catena Malbec 2008 Argentina $21.00-23.00

Over the last few years Argentine Malbec has become the hottest wine on the planetand when it comes to Malbec, Catena is the gold standard. Deep purplish black withan intense nose of blackberries, licorice and spice; a wine at once fine yet at the sametime rustic. Round and full with rich fruit flavours, soft tannins and a touch of oak.Great drinking from beginning to end....

Fontodi Chianti Classico 2007 Italy $34.00-37.00

Fontodi; etch this name into your brain, you will not regret it. Located south of thetiny village of Panzano, in the heart of Chianti Classico, vines have been cultivatedhere since ancient Rome was the biggest player on the planet. This estate has historyto put it bluntly and although the price of Chianti Classico has soared over the lastcouple of decades, good Chianti is worth every penny. Bright and clean with lovelyraspberry, violet and vanilla aromas. Full-bodied with sweet fruit flavours, freshacidity and a rasp of grippy tannins through the finish. Highly enjoyable now but willreward time in your cellar-basement-closet....

Domaine de Bacarra Beaujolais-Villages 2009 France $20.00-22.00

Two thousand and nine is considered by many to be one of the greatest vintages inthe last half century and this wine does not disappoint. Irresistibly fruity and aro-matic, with mouth-filling flavours and a long soft finish. Fresh and quaffable...

WHITE WINEUnsworth Pinot Gris 2010 Vancouver Island, BC $20.00-23.00As far as I can tell Unsworth Vineyards is Vancouver Island’s newest winery. Sitting on13 hectares of prime real estate on Cameron-Taggart Road, close to Merridale Cidery,the winery and vineyard is still very much a work in progress. Considering 2010 wastheir first vintage my expectations were not too high but I was delightfully surprised.This scrumptious little quaffer begs for a compliment. Very fresh with good intensityand racy acidity. Citrusy with floral, mineral and honey nuances and a slightly oilytexture A good bet to wash down a couple of dozen fresh oysters. Buehler Vineyards Russian River Chardonnay 09 California $24.00-27.00This delicious Russian River Chardonnay is irresistible. It is what the French woulddescribe as “big-shouldered.” Very aromatic with floral, stone fruit and toast aromasand mouth-filling viscosity, beautifully balanced with supple fruit flavours, clean,natural acidity and a long creamy finish. Delicious...J.A. Ferret Sous Vergisson Pouilly Fuisse 2010 $46.00-50.00Sous Vergisson is a blend of Chardonnay from some of the best sites in the appellation.This lovely Pouilly Fuisse is a fresh straightforward Chardonnay with a whiff of crushedoyster shells and citrus on the nose. Balanced and elegant with a lovely creamytexture and a long clean finish...Clos du Soleil Capella 2009 Similkameen Valley, BC $23.00-25.00Move over Bordeaux Blanc, this lushly textured blend of Sauvignon Blanc (90%) andSemillon (10%) is seriously good. Warm and generous with aromas of wildflowers,vanilla and citrus with a touch of honey and bitter almond to round it all out. Capellais not a flowery little delight; it is big and rich with a creamy texture and a long spicyfinish. Who could have known?Grandes Caves Saint Roch Vouvray Demi-Sec 2010 France $21.00-23.00This lovely off-dry Chenin Blanc is the kind of wine that could only come from France.The nose is heady and rich, it is floral, perhaps acacia blossoms, but there is alsoquince, honey and red apples. Medium-bodied and well-balanced with an oilyviscosity that coats the palate and dances between fruity sweetness and fresh acidity.It is a delicious paradox.Giesen “The Brothers” Sauvignon Blanc 2009 New Zealand $22.00-25.00There is absolutely nothing reserved about this intense Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.It is pungent, full-flavoured and not lacking in character. Crisp and clean with citrus,passionfruit and gooseberry aromas, ripe fruit flavours and a long refreshing finish.

left: Clos du Soleil Capella 2009 Similkameen Valley, BCright: Unsworth Pinot Gris 2010 Vancouver Island, BC

Photo by Gary H

ynes

ALL THE DIRTLocal Farmers Launch new BookPart inspiration, part manifesto, and part reality check, All The Dirt goes beyond beinga handbook of farming know how to passionately illustrate life on today’s next-genfarm. Essentially three long chapters—each chapter written by one of three co-authors,Rachel Fisher, Heather Stretch, and Robin Tunnicliffe—with two shorter, concluding,and collaborative chapters, All The Dirt mixes the romance of farming with thechallenge of living off the land, so to speak. We hear how farming is a balancing actof technique and science, raising families, the need to earning a living, and about thepleasure of being plugged into a supportive farmer community and growing foodmovement. But the book also digs deep into the practical knowledge required to grow food with

a truckload of advice—including starting out, facts, planting and harvesting charts,tips, the best equipment, leasing land, financial spreadsheets—all the informationyou’d need if you decided to ditch that city job and took up feeding people for aliving. Sprinkled throughout the chapters are neat little sidebars, such as On Being aWoman Farmer (Robin), How to Put Plastic on a Greenhouse (Rachel) and Farm Kids(Heather). The final two chapters discuss why they are organic farmers and describetheir business collective, Saanich Organics. Informative, timely and well written, AllThe Dirt is a must-read insider’s account of farming today on Vancouver Island.—Gary Hynes

*To read an interview with Heather Stretch go to www.eatmagazine.ca and Search: All The Dirt

All The Dirt, published by TouchWood Editions, $29.95 ISBN 978-1-972129-12-8

Available at bookstores and online at www.touchwoodeditions.com


liquid assets —by Larry Arnold

RED WINECal Y Canto Full Red 2009 Spain $12.00-15.00

An incredible bargain. The blend includes Tempranillo, Merlot & Syrah sourced fromfruit grown on the high plains of Spain’s great central plateau; La Mancha. Dark androbustly flavoured with bright cherry, earth and spice flavours that persist throughthe finish. For immediate, easy pleasure.

Alderlea Pinot Noir Reserve 2007 Vancouver Island $32.00-37.00

Deep, generous nose, classic Pinot Noir, island Pinot Noir. No brett here just ripe, cleanfruit: cherry, cassis, spice and autumn leaves. Mouth-filling texture, everything is herebut it still needs time. Lovely balance.

Josef Chromy Pinot Noir 2009 Australia $30.00-33.00

Chromy’s Pinot Noir is sourced from fruit grown on the estate vineyard at Relbia at thenorthern end of Tasmania. The wine is darkly coloured with a generous bouquet of redfruit and expensive French oak. Complex with ample fruit, fine grained tannins anda muscular structure. Although approachable now this pinot is no gay little charmer;it has a dark side that after a glass or two kind of grows on you.

Bodega Catena Malbec 2008 Argentina $21.00-23.00

Over the last few years Argentine Malbec has become the hottest wine on the planetand when it comes to Malbec, Catena is the gold standard. Deep purplish black withan intense nose of blackberries, licorice and spice; a wine at once fine yet at the sametime rustic. Round and full with rich fruit flavours, soft tannins and a touch of oak.Great drinking from beginning to end....

Fontodi Chianti Classico 2007 Italy $34.00-37.00

Fontodi; etch this name into your brain, you will not regret it. Located south of thetiny village of Panzano, in the heart of Chianti Classico, vines have been cultivatedhere since ancient Rome was the biggest player on the planet. This estate has historyto put it bluntly and although the price of Chianti Classico has soared over the lastcouple of decades, good Chianti is worth every penny. Bright and clean with lovelyraspberry, violet and vanilla aromas. Full-bodied with sweet fruit flavours, freshacidity and a rasp of grippy tannins through the finish. Highly enjoyable now but willreward time in your cellar-basement-closet....

Domaine de Bacarra Beaujolais-Villages 2009 France $20.00-22.00

Two thousand and nine is considered by many to be one of the greatest vintages inthe last half century and this wine does not disappoint. Irresistibly fruity and aro-matic, with mouth-filling flavours and a long soft finish. Fresh and quaffable...

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Comfort FoodWHITE WINEUnsworth Pinot Gris 2010 Vancouver Island, BC $20.00-23.00As far as I can tell Unsworth Vineyards is Vancouver Island’s newest winery. Sitting on13 hectares of prime real estate on Cameron-Taggart Road, close to Merridale Cidery,the winery and vineyard is still very much a work in progress. Considering 2010 wastheir first vintage my expectations were not too high but I was delightfully surprised.This scrumptious little quaffer begs for a compliment. Very fresh with good intensityand racy acidity. Citrusy with floral, mineral and honey nuances and a slightly oilytexture A good bet to wash down a couple of dozen fresh oysters. Buehler Vineyards Russian River Chardonnay 09 California $24.00-27.00This delicious Russian River Chardonnay is irresistible. It is what the French woulddescribe as “big-shouldered.” Very aromatic with floral, stone fruit and toast aromasand mouth-filling viscosity, beautifully balanced with supple fruit flavours, clean,natural acidity and a long creamy finish. Delicious...J.A. Ferret Sous Vergisson Pouilly Fuisse 2010 $46.00-50.00Sous Vergisson is a blend of Chardonnay from some of the best sites in the appellation.This lovely Pouilly Fuisse is a fresh straightforward Chardonnay with a whiff of crushedoyster shells and citrus on the nose. Balanced and elegant with a lovely creamytexture and a long clean finish...Clos du Soleil Capella 2009 Similkameen Valley, BC $23.00-25.00Move over Bordeaux Blanc, this lushly textured blend of Sauvignon Blanc (90%) andSemillon (10%) is seriously good. Warm and generous with aromas of wildflowers,vanilla and citrus with a touch of honey and bitter almond to round it all out. Capellais not a flowery little delight; it is big and rich with a creamy texture and a long spicyfinish. Who could have known?Grandes Caves Saint Roch Vouvray Demi-Sec 2010 France $21.00-23.00This lovely off-dry Chenin Blanc is the kind of wine that could only come from France.The nose is heady and rich, it is floral, perhaps acacia blossoms, but there is alsoquince, honey and red apples. Medium-bodied and well-balanced with an oilyviscosity that coats the palate and dances between fruity sweetness and fresh acidity.It is a delicious paradox.Giesen “The Brothers” Sauvignon Blanc 2009 New Zealand $22.00-25.00There is absolutely nothing reserved about this intense Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.It is pungent, full-flavoured and not lacking in character. Crisp and clean with citrus,passionfruit and gooseberry aromas, ripe fruit flavours and a long refreshing finish.

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left: Clos du Soleil Capella 2009 Similkameen Valley, BCright: Unsworth Pinot Gris 2010 Vancouver Island, BC

Photo by Gary H

ynes

ALL THE DIRTLocal Farmers Launch new BookPart inspiration, part manifesto, and part reality check, All The Dirt goes beyond beinga handbook of farming know how to passionately illustrate life on today’s next-genfarm. Essentially three long chapters—each chapter written by one of three co-authors,Rachel Fisher, Heather Stretch, and Robin Tunnicliffe—with two shorter, concluding,and collaborative chapters, All The Dirt mixes the romance of farming with thechallenge of living off the land, so to speak. We hear how farming is a balancing actof technique and science, raising families, the need to earning a living, and about thepleasure of being plugged into a supportive farmer community and growing foodmovement. But the book also digs deep into the practical knowledge required to grow food with

a truckload of advice—including starting out, facts, planting and harvesting charts,tips, the best equipment, leasing land, financial spreadsheets—all the informationyou’d need if you decided to ditch that city job and took up feeding people for aliving. Sprinkled throughout the chapters are neat little sidebars, such as On Being aWoman Farmer (Robin), How to Put Plastic on a Greenhouse (Rachel) and Farm Kids(Heather). The final two chapters discuss why they are organic farmers and describetheir business collective, Saanich Organics. Informative, timely and well written, AllThe Dirt is a must-read insider’s account of farming today on Vancouver Island.—Gary Hynes

*To read an interview with Heather Stretch go to www.eatmagazine.ca and Search: All The Dirt

All The Dirt, published by TouchWood Editions, $29.95 ISBN 978-1-972129-12-8

Available at bookstores and online at www.touchwoodeditions.com


The Buzz VICTORIA: This edition of the Victoria Buzz has had me humming the Beatles to myself (hello, goodbye,hello, goodbye…) Let’s start with the goodbyes, shall we? After ten years in Market Square, Muffet andLouisa will be closing their Victoria location. Their Sidney shop remains open for business. Also sayinggoodbye to Market Square is local institution Fat Phege’s Fudge Factory, whose lease will not be renewedonce it expires in April. The Feys + Hobbs Boutique said goodbye to its Fort St. location in January, butwill say hello to Oak Bay Ave once renovations are complete. (2249 Oak Bay Ave.) Other food businessesto leave Fort St. this winter include Pink Sugar Cupcakery and Golden Chopsticks. Some more hellos, please? Smoken Bones Cookshack opened their downtown location in the Hudson

(corner of Douglas and Herald St.) at the end of January. Ingredients Health Food Store and Apple Cafécelebrated their grand opening in February (Corner of Store and Herald St.) Still hush-hush hellos includea new project of Cosmo Meens’ (Mo:lé, Village Family Marketplace) called the Soup Peddler to fill thespot left by Bubby Rose’s Bakery in the Cook St. Village, and a new independent eatery called the ClayPigeon coming to Blanshard St. with links to the Pink Bicycle and Chef Geneviève Laplante (Sips, CookCulture and EAT photographer) at the helm in the kitchen. Now how about a hello again? The new OakBay Beach Hotel is bringing back the Snug Pub; complete with original bartender Joe Smith and theiriconic mugs and memorabilia. Opening planned for the end of May.Also in Oak Bay, the Whole Beast is planning a Carnivore Dinner series in partnership with The Village

Butcher. The butcher shop will be transformed into a meat-inspired dining room. The dinners will feature fivecourses of island grown products, paired with local wines. Follow the Whole Beast on Facebook or Twitterfor more details and updates. A selection of Whole Beast products, such as smoked sausages, salamis,hams, liverwurst and pepperoni are now also available at the Niagara Grocery in James Bay. Anotherexciting food partnership is happening between El Guapo Chorizo Grill and Vancouver Island SaltCo. who are pairing up to create a Spanish Paprika Salt. Keep an eye out for it at the Victoria DowntownPublic Markets. In kitchen news, chef Jeff Keenliside has officially taken over both kitchens at the Penny Farthing pub

and neighbouring Vis a Vis wine bar. Vis a Vis is now open every day of the week for lunch as well asdinner. Another new lunch option in town is Kulu Modern Asian Restaurant’s Take Out Lunch menu.Available Monday – Friday, orders must be placed before 5pm the previous day, and delivery is free fororders over $30. Kulu has also just launched their new spring menu, featuring local meats and produce fromUmi Nami Farm. If springtime gets your green thumbs twitching, there are several urban gardening courses coming up to

provide some guidance on how to get the most out of your patch. Lifecycles Project is offering Planningyour Food Garden with Master GardenerAmy Crook on March 7, and Sowing Seeds: The Basics, a work-shop in three sessions on March 14, 21 and 28. (www.lifecyclesproject.ca). Royal Roads University isrunning a 20-week course on Growing Food in the City, from March 3 – September 22. For a great read,look out for the new book by Saanich Organics farmers Rachel Fisher, Heather Stretch and RobinTunnicliffe, called All the Dirt: Reflections on Organic Farming (Touchwood Editions). Part memoir, part how-to manual for establishing an organic farm and getting a food distribution business off the ground, this bookcovers everything you ever wanted to know about small scale organic farming. —Rebecca Baugniet

EASTER MODERNQuail, parsnip, chicories, beurre rouge,fig leaf, vanilla

MD – A lighter to medium-bodied red wine with ripe fruit,good natural acidity and medium alcohol would be theideal pairing for this dish. Pinot Noir, Gamay andSangiovese would all work well. From a pure value stand-point, it would be hard to go wrong with a Valpolicella orits richer cousin, a Ripasso. The deciding factor leadingme to Italy is the chicories—their pleasing bitterness isvalued quite highly in northern Italian cuisine, so thewines complement rather than clash with this sometimesdifficult flavour.

DF – I see a welcomed challenging conflict of terrior herewith classic dish components of the Old World, yet wewant to bring the party into current times. This dilemmatransports me to the Central Otago region of New Zealandwhere many top producers are paying homage to thenatural purity of Burgundian Pinot Noir while develop-ing their own signature noteworthy lineage. In this case,there is enough new world ripe fruit to act as a layer overthe inherent earthiness of the grape, thereby bolsteringthe intensity needed to match the mild gaminess of thequail. Texturally soft fruits in the wine will be comparable

to the texture of the beurre rouge (prepare with the samewine) and parsnip (puree). A degree of toastiness frombarrel maturation would work nicely with (grilled) chicoryif not a slight vanilla component.

ES – With this dish, I would look towards a youthfulBandol from southern France. The overall rich anddecadent flavours of the dish call for wine with sufficientbody and moderate but polished tannins. The flavourprofile of Bandol will mirror the vanilla, chicories and figleaf nicely. For a closer-to-home option, I would looktowards a B.C. Pinotage: good structure and complemen-tary flavours of mocha, vanilla and spice.

EASTER TRADITIONALHam, pineapple, cloves, potatoes

MD – This dish calls for a light- to medium-bodied whitewine to match the weight of the dish. You also want greatnatural acidity to cut through the fat, and loads of tropi-cal fruit supported by some residual sugar to properlycomplement the pineapple and cloves. A GermanRiesling (either Kabinett or Spätlese) or a BritishColumbia or Ontario Riesling with anywhere from 12-25grams of residual sugar would be ideal, as would a demi-sec Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley.

DF – I would approach this pairing with the thought ofNorth American traditions as opposed to classicalEuropean cookery. To me, this dish screams out for afleshy, opulent white loaded with richness and tropicalelements. Although ham may be leaner than otherproteins, a bone-in version with its increased intensity offlavour can stand up to a richer style wine. Thecaramelization achieved through roasting will play nicelyto a wine matured at a high barrel toast level and thepineapple component along with pineapple glaze leadsme to an expressive, succulent California selection of oak-aged Viognier. My recommendation would be source outa producer from Edna Valley in San Luis Obispo wherefruit achieves optimum ripeness yet retains its acidity forbalance.

ES – With traditional Easter dinner I always look towardsa slightly off-dry Alsatian White. Pinot Gris would be myfirst choice, but a slightly aged Gewürztraminer should beconsidered as well. The richness and fruit-driven palate ofthe Pinot Gris will complement the ham well by cuttingthrough the salt while also ensuring the pineapple notesdo not take on a bitter tone. Also fun could be a Moscastod’Asti. Fresh, young and lots of spritz will cut throughthe salt and lighten up the meal.

Michael Dinn (MD) - Proprietor, JoieFarm Winery

what to drink with that—by Treve Ring

O U R E X P E R T S Erika Staffanson (ES) - Manager & Sommelier, Vis à VisWine & Charcuterie Bar

DRINK editor Treve Ring asks local wine experts how they would approach pairing dishes and flavours. Thismonth’s challenge is to view Easter dinner through two lenses: modern and traditional.

David Foran (DF) - Wine Director, SIDECUT – Modern SteakFour Seasons Resort WhistlerMichael Dinn is co-owner and co-founder of JoieFarm Winery.

He is a graduate of the Canadian Sommelier Guild programand spent 13 years working in front of house at a number ofVancouver’s best restaurants, including positions as sommelier atboth C Restaurant and CinCin.

After graduating from the International Sommelier Guild in 2001,David has become a sought-after wine consultant, speaker andjudge. He is currently overseeing the restaurant and wine programat SIDECUT in Whistler’s Four Seasons Resort.

Upon completing the International Sommelier Guild Diploma in2006, Erika relocated to the Okanagan and fully immersed herselfin B.C.’s wine country. With a crush at Tinhorn and a few restaurantstints at Burrowing Owl and Manteo Resort, she moved back to theIsland to open Vis à Vis Wine Bar in Victoria’s Oak Bay Village.


The Buzz VICTORIA: This edition of the Victoria Buzz has had me humming the Beatles to myself (hello, goodbye,hello, goodbye…) Let’s start with the goodbyes, shall we? After ten years in Market Square, Muffet andLouisa will be closing their Victoria location. Their Sidney shop remains open for business. Also sayinggoodbye to Market Square is local institution Fat Phege’s Fudge Factory, whose lease will not be renewedonce it expires in April. The Feys + Hobbs Boutique said goodbye to its Fort St. location in January, butwill say hello to Oak Bay Ave once renovations are complete. (2249 Oak Bay Ave.) Other food businessesto leave Fort St. this winter include Pink Sugar Cupcakery and Golden Chopsticks. Some more hellos, please? Smoken Bones Cookshack opened their downtown location in the Hudson

(corner of Douglas and Herald St.) at the end of January. Ingredients Health Food Store and Apple Cafécelebrated their grand opening in February (Corner of Store and Herald St.) Still hush-hush hellos includea new project of Cosmo Meens’ (Mo:lé, Village Family Marketplace) called the Soup Peddler to fill thespot left by Bubby Rose’s Bakery in the Cook St. Village, and a new independent eatery called the ClayPigeon coming to Blanshard St. with links to the Pink Bicycle and Chef Geneviève Laplante (Sips, CookCulture and EAT photographer) at the helm in the kitchen. Now how about a hello again? The new OakBay Beach Hotel is bringing back the Snug Pub; complete with original bartender Joe Smith and theiriconic mugs and memorabilia. Opening planned for the end of May.Also in Oak Bay, the Whole Beast is planning a Carnivore Dinner series in partnership with The Village

Butcher. The butcher shop will be transformed into a meat-inspired dining room. The dinners will feature fivecourses of island grown products, paired with local wines. Follow the Whole Beast on Facebook or Twitterfor more details and updates. A selection of Whole Beast products, such as smoked sausages, salamis,hams, liverwurst and pepperoni are now also available at the Niagara Grocery in James Bay. Anotherexciting food partnership is happening between El Guapo Chorizo Grill and Vancouver Island SaltCo. who are pairing up to create a Spanish Paprika Salt. Keep an eye out for it at the Victoria DowntownPublic Markets. In kitchen news, chef Jeff Keenliside has officially taken over both kitchens at the Penny Farthing pub

and neighbouring Vis a Vis wine bar. Vis a Vis is now open every day of the week for lunch as well asdinner. Another new lunch option in town is Kulu Modern Asian Restaurant’s Take Out Lunch menu.Available Monday – Friday, orders must be placed before 5pm the previous day, and delivery is free fororders over $30. Kulu has also just launched their new spring menu, featuring local meats and produce fromUmi Nami Farm. If springtime gets your green thumbs twitching, there are several urban gardening courses coming up to

provide some guidance on how to get the most out of your patch. Lifecycles Project is offering Planningyour Food Garden with Master Gardener Amy Crook on March 7, and Sowing Seeds: The Basics, a work-shop in three sessions on March 14, 21 and 28. (www.lifecyclesproject.ca). Royal Roads University isrunning a 20-week course on Growing Food in the City, from March 3 – September 22. For a great read,look out for the new book by Saanich Organics farmers Rachel Fisher, Heather Stretch and RobinTunnicliffe, called All the Dirt: Reflections on Organic Farming (Touchwood Editions). Part memoir, part how-to manual for establishing an organic farm and getting a food distribution business off the ground, this bookcovers everything you ever wanted to know about small scale organic farming. —Rebecca Baugniet

Open 7 days a week

5325 Cordova Bay Rd.250-658-3116

Our service can best be described as“Knowledgeable,yet not pretentious……approachable,

with a hint of sass!”

a tMATTICK’S FARM

www.vqawineshop.ca

VVQQAA WWiinnee SShhoopp

On this Farm there are some Wine Chicks...Revealing the Best of BC wines - Check out the Spring releases

HAUTE CUISINE 1210 BROAD ST., VICTORIA, BC 250.388.9906

L e C r e u s e t M a r s e i l l e

LeCreusetMarseille L

eCreusetMarseilleEASTER MODERN

Quail, parsnip, chicories, beurre rouge,fig leaf, vanilla

MD – A lighter to medium-bodied red wine with ripe fruit,good natural acidity and medium alcohol would be theideal pairing for this dish. Pinot Noir, Gamay andSangiovese would all work well. From a pure value stand-point, it would be hard to go wrong with a Valpolicella orits richer cousin, a Ripasso. The deciding factor leadingme to Italy is the chicories—their pleasing bitterness isvalued quite highly in northern Italian cuisine, so thewines complement rather than clash with this sometimesdifficult flavour.

DF – I see a welcomed challenging conflict of terrior herewith classic dish components of the Old World, yet wewant to bring the party into current times. This dilemmatransports me to the Central Otago region of New Zealandwhere many top producers are paying homage to thenatural purity of Burgundian Pinot Noir while develop-ing their own signature noteworthy lineage. In this case,there is enough new world ripe fruit to act as a layer overthe inherent earthiness of the grape, thereby bolsteringthe intensity needed to match the mild gaminess of thequail. Texturally soft fruits in the wine will be comparable

to the texture of the beurre rouge (prepare with the samewine) and parsnip (puree). A degree of toastiness frombarrel maturation would work nicely with (grilled) chicoryif not a slight vanilla component.

ES – With this dish, I would look towards a youthfulBandol from southern France. The overall rich anddecadent flavours of the dish call for wine with sufficientbody and moderate but polished tannins. The flavourprofile of Bandol will mirror the vanilla, chicories and figleaf nicely. For a closer-to-home option, I would looktowards a B.C. Pinotage: good structure and complemen-tary flavours of mocha, vanilla and spice.

EASTER TRADITIONALHam, pineapple, cloves, potatoes

MD – This dish calls for a light- to medium-bodied whitewine to match the weight of the dish. You also want greatnatural acidity to cut through the fat, and loads of tropi-cal fruit supported by some residual sugar to properlycomplement the pineapple and cloves. A GermanRiesling (either Kabinett or Spätlese) or a BritishColumbia or Ontario Riesling with anywhere from 12-25grams of residual sugar would be ideal, as would a demi-sec Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley.

DF – I would approach this pairing with the thought ofNorth American traditions as opposed to classicalEuropean cookery. To me, this dish screams out for afleshy, opulent white loaded with richness and tropicalelements. Although ham may be leaner than otherproteins, a bone-in version with its increased intensity offlavour can stand up to a richer style wine. Thecaramelization achieved through roasting will play nicelyto a wine matured at a high barrel toast level and thepineapple component along with pineapple glaze leadsme to an expressive, succulent California selection of oak-aged Viognier. My recommendation would be source outa producer from Edna Valley in San Luis Obispo wherefruit achieves optimum ripeness yet retains its acidity forbalance.

ES – With traditional Easter dinner I always look towardsa slightly off-dry Alsatian White. Pinot Gris would be myfirst choice, but a slightly aged Gewürztraminer should beconsidered as well. The richness and fruit-driven palate ofthe Pinot Gris will complement the ham well by cuttingthrough the salt while also ensuring the pineapple notesdo not take on a bitter tone. Also fun could be a Moscastod’Asti. Fresh, young and lots of spritz will cut throughthe salt and lighten up the meal.

Erika Staffanson (ES) - Manager & Sommelier, Vis à VisWine & Charcuterie Bar

DRINK editor Treve Ring asks local wine experts how they would approach pairing dishes and flavours. Thismonth’s challenge is to view Easter dinner through two lenses: modern and traditional.

Upon completing the International Sommelier Guild Diploma in2006, Erika relocated to the Okanagan and fully immersed herselfin B.C.’s wine country. With a crush at Tinhorn and a few restaurantstints at Burrowing Owl and Manteo Resort, she moved back to theIsland to open Vis à Vis Wine Bar in Victoria’s Oak Bay Village.

VANCOUVER: Sweet news…Chambar alumni Eleanor Chow and Slavita Johnson are openingtheir first joint project, Cadeaux Bakery (www.cadeauxbakery.com), at 172 Powell St. If the baking isanything like what Chow used to turn out at Chambar, this will be a gift, indeed. Nicli Antica Pizzeria(www.nicli-antica-pizzeria.ca) owners Bill and Alison McCaig are opening Vicino Pastaria and Delithis spring, next door to their Vera Pizza Napoletana establishment. Look for housemade fresh-filledand extruded dry pasta, sauces, and housemade, local and imported cured meats, with both retail anddine-in options. And speaking of pizza, it seems Vancouver still doesn’t have enough good pizza.Joining the likes of Campagnolo, Nicli, Nook, Pizzeria Barberella, Novo, and Farina, comesFamoso (www.famoso.ca), a popular Canadian franchise that specializes in—you guessed it—authentic Neapolitan pizza. Look for it sometime in April on Commercial Drive.From the owners of The Cascade Room and Habit comes a new offering. The Union Bar

(www.theunionbar.ca) at 219 Union Street specializes in Southeast Asian food (think noodles, curries,and street food-inspired fare). Now open nightly, no reservations. Miku Restaurant (www.mikurestau-rant.com) has taken over the former Goldfish Seafood and Chops space at 1118 Mainland Street in Yale-town. Minami, the second location of this Ocean Wise-certified sushi restaurant (one of only two inGreater Vancouver) is slated to open in summer 2012.Japadog (www.japadog.com), the first Vancouver street food vendor who managed to offer some-

thing other than just tube steak on a bun (the freshly-grated daikon is a fave) has opened a storefrontlocation in New York City. Tomorrow the world…Green Table Network (www.greentable.net) has launched their 2.0 service, to better offer local

restaurants access to sustainable producers and suppliers, including online guidebooks, DIY tools, on-site verification and support, and more. Chambar Restaurant (www.chambar.com) has become oneof only two restaurants in British Columbia to achieve Carbon Neutral certification. Congrats to hus-band-and-wife team Karri and Nico Schuermans!And in more green news, Trafalgar’s Bistro and Sweet Obsessions Cakes and Pastries

(www.trafalgars.com) might just be least wasteful food service operation in the country. They have elim-inated 100 percent of the organic waste going to landfills and 98 percent of all remaining waste. Fromfilling a Dumpster every week, they now barely fill a plastic garbage bag, all by using the GreenGoodCG-50 composting machine, which composts all waste within 24 hours—and with no odour. NDP Fish-eries and Oceans Critic Fin Donnelly has launched a shark fin import ban petition. Shark fin soup is apopular dish at traditional Chinese weddings, and is also sought after for its purported medicinal prop-erties. For more info on the ban petition, visit www.sharktruth.com.David Gunawan, former EC at West, is back from a three-month stint in Belgium with a new concept

in dining labelled ph5 ([email protected]), a cooperative food and dining movement. Weekly din-ners happen every Wednesday around the city until April, at which point they will be monthly. Fivecourses for $70. Email for details. Jay Jones, barman extraordinaire at Market by Jean-Georges(www.marketbyjgvancouver.com) in the Shangri-La Hotel, has been named Bartender of the Year byEnroute Magazine. —Anya Levykh

NANAIMO: As we come out of the foodie quiet season it is evident that a collection of innovativerestaurateurs have been busy redesigning their dining rooms, menus and dishes. Overall the approachis literally fresh with an increased use of local ingredients and culinary creativity that is on the rise likea perfectly crafted loaf of bread. A trend for offering gourmet dining and take-home artisanal foods all


in one place is making the mid-island food scenemore enticing than ever! And now for the highlights:Riso Foods Inc. (www.risofoodsinc.com; 250-390-0777) Upon entering this Lantzville bistro yoursenses are immediately captured by irresistible aro-mas and a wall of fresh wood-fired baked breads.Next a menu of seasonal dishes crafted with thecreative flare of chefs Sarah Wallbank andMatthew Sheppard fuels your anticipation. Iwas particularly taken with the sunchoke soup, es-pecially after hearing the chokes were grown inSarah’s garden. As the menu changes with the sea-son one familiar bite remains the wood-fired pizzamade with magic by Sarah’s husband Taka. Youwon’t want to leave without tucking a loaf underyour arm…Markt Artisan Deli (www.marktartisandeli.com;(250) 585-5337) You may have noticed Marktgets regular mention in this Buzz. This is becausechef Ryan Zuvich and his team are on an endlesspath of innovation. Now a Brasserie Menu featur-ing amazing classic yet contemporary dishes is onoffer Thursday-Saturday weekly. Through a win-dow from the deli to the kitchen you can see chef atwork preparing house-made charcuterie, salad,gourmet entrees and desserts. It is the lamb with or-ange olive sauce that found a special place on mypalate. You won’t want to leave without something(like their house-cured bacon) from the deli case.Danforth Deli and Grill (www.danforthdeli.com;(250) 591-1742) Here owner Ben Bryce has re-vived the kind of comforting lunch you may re-member running home for as a school-kid. Usingbreads baked before opening he builds a varietyof towering grilled cheese sandwiches you willnever forget. While I started as a skeptic about Buf-

falo chicken in a grill cheese I am now a convert!Takeaways include exceptionally tasty meatpies and an unusual selection of specialty cheeses. Urban Beet Real Food Cafe (www.urbanbeet.ca;250-390-9722) Not just for lunch anymore! A newmanagement team has been implementing tableservice and adding dinner and brunch to the menuwhile new chef Lisa Lipieg has been busy innovat-ing thematic dishes that include beet-based healthyplatters and an amazing “Beet Bomb” starter. Othernotables include a selection of gourmet burgers,corn tortilla tacos and the great take-away foodsUrban Beet has become known for.Nest Bistro (486A Franklyn St.; 250-591-2721)Many locals are already in the know about thecomforting fare at this neighborhood eatery inNanaimo’s Old City Quarter. A little birdie from theNest has told me that a new menu is ready forlaunch by March 1st. It is without a doubt that thenew dishes will reflect the same passion chefs NickBraun and Jennifer Ash have put into their foodsince opening last year. The little birdie has beentweeting about a great new wine list too!City Square Grill (www.citysquaregrill.com; 250-746-1700) The newest kids on the block in down-town Duncan are City Square Grill’s passionateyoung team led by owner Jaimie Schmidt. Work-ing with island suppliers this enthusiastic group havedeveloped a sophisticated menu featuring housecurry and specialty ravioli entrees. Definitely wortha visit to get your spice on! —Karma Brophy

TOFINO: There are two major upcoming eventsthat help us far-flung west coasters welcome spring. The Pacific Rim Whale Festival, March 17-25, isa long-running festival (now in its 26th year) that

celebrates the return of migrating whales from theirsouthern winter-feeding grounds with many enter-taining events. Several food and drink-focusedWhale Festival events also help us to break out ofthat winter funk. Chef Nick Nutting and the kitchenbrigade at the Pointe Restaurant at the Wick-aninnish Inn will be hosting the Whale FestivalGala dinner and Silent Auction fundraiser on March15. The Wickaninnish has been donating 100% ofthe proceeds from this dinner for the past 14 years,and last year raised $20,000 for the festival.www.wickinn.com or call 250-725-3100. TheChowder Chowdown is a not-to-be-missed WhaleFestival event, with local chefs serving up their bestseafood chowder offerings to the public and apanel of judges. This event takes place Sunday,March 18 at the Ucluelet Community Centre. SweetIndulgences is Whale Fest’s answer to a dessertlovers’ dream – all you can eat dessert! Locals offerup their best family recipes while attendees vote ontheir favourite treats, and it’s all set to live musicMarch 22 at the Ucluelet Community Centre. BlackRock Oceanfront Resort will be hosting the Bar-nacle Blues concert, also on March 22. This eventis all about gourmet appetizers from local chefs andcomplementary beverages, as well as fantasticblues music from Jim Byrnes and Headwater.www.blackrockresort.com. 250-726-4800. For de-tails visit www.pacificrimwhalefestival.com/events. The Tofino-Ucluelet Culinary Guild

(http://www.tucg.ca) is busy with preparations forthe 2nd annual Feast Tofino-Ucluelet festival, setfor May 14-31. This festival recognizes the area’sfoodie appeal with dock festivals featuring localand guest chefs, live music and seafood tasting, andspecial “Feast About Town” menus at local

restaurants. Accommodation providers and touroperators also offer specials during Feast. I’m hop-ing for more specifics for the May/June edition, butin the meantime visit www.feastbc.com and followFeast BC on Facebook. The TUCG also heads up quite the healthy lunch

program at Wickaninnish Community Schooland they’ve just announced that chef Rick Moore,formerly of his own Café Pamplona, theWickaninnish Inn and Shelter Restaurant, will bedelighting the palates of Tofino’s youngest dinersby taking on the program starting this year. “Foranyone who has shared a kitchen with him theyknow he is hard-working, humble, caring, and hasbeen a real positive influence for a lot of youngchefs in Tofino,” states information about Moorefrom the TUCG. The Spotted Bear Bistro took a brief break from

their weekend brunch over the winter, but thankfullyit’s back. Chef Vincent Fraissange will have Sun-day brunch until Easter weekend, when it will startrunning Saturdays as well. This, of course, in addi-tion to his regular seven days a week dinner servicestarting at 5:30pm. www.spottedbearbistro.com orcall 250-725-2215. If you’re making Easter weekend plans to come visit,also check out the Easter-themed brunch at thePointe Restaurant. It runs from 8am-2pm on Sun-day, April 8th, and will feature a chocolate tastingand demonstration by pastry chef Matt Wilson.For more information, visit www.wickinn.com or call250-725-3100. —Jen DartNOTE: The COMOX BUZZ by Eli Blake isavailable online this issue. Visitwww.eatmagazine.ca and enter Comox Buzz intoSearch.


Cont’d on the next page

The Buzz The Buzz

1715 Government [email protected]

Dinner 5:30 - 11 pmTuesday to Saturday

Tasteladysmith, bc

bistro

250 924 1110

TastebisbisTasteroroTastetTasteTasteTaste250 924 1110250 924 1110TasteTasteTasteTasteTasteTasteladysmith, bc

TasteTasteTasteTasteTasteTasteTasteladysmith, bc

TasteTaste

Visit the Seagrille to experience our freshapproach to seafood & sushi in Victoria’s mostspectacular seaside setting… Enjoy our Chef’sseasonally inspired menu with ingredientsharvested from the sea and grown fresh onVancouver Island. Watch our highly trainedJapanese Sushi Chefs create a truly authentic“West Coast” sushi experience.

Seafood & SushiRedefined.

849Verdier Ave 250.544.2079www .BrentwoodBayResort.com

Week endGe t away sEs c a p e You r No rma l

VANCOUVER: Sweet news…Chambar alumni Eleanor Chow and Slavita Johnson are openingtheir first joint project, Cadeaux Bakery (www.cadeauxbakery.com), at 172 Powell St. If the baking isanything like what Chow used to turn out at Chambar, this will be a gift, indeed. Nicli Antica Pizzeria(www.nicli-antica-pizzeria.ca) owners Bill and Alison McCaig are opening Vicino Pastaria and Delithis spring, next door to their Vera Pizza Napoletana establishment. Look for housemade fresh-filledand extruded dry pasta, sauces, and housemade, local and imported cured meats, with both retail anddine-in options. And speaking of pizza, it seems Vancouver still doesn’t have enough good pizza.Joining the likes of Campagnolo, Nicli, Nook, Pizzeria Barberella, Novo, and Farina, comesFamoso (www.famoso.ca), a popular Canadian franchise that specializes in—you guessed it—authentic Neapolitan pizza. Look for it sometime in April on Commercial Drive.From the owners of The Cascade Room and Habit comes a new offering. The Union Bar

(www.theunionbar.ca) at 219 Union Street specializes in Southeast Asian food (think noodles, curries,and street food-inspired fare). Now open nightly, no reservations. Miku Restaurant (www.mikurestau-rant.com) has taken over the former Goldfish Seafood and Chops space at 1118 Mainland Street in Yale-town. Minami, the second location of this Ocean Wise-certified sushi restaurant (one of only two inGreater Vancouver) is slated to open in summer 2012.Japadog (www.japadog.com), the first Vancouver street food vendor who managed to offer some-

thing other than just tube steak on a bun (the freshly-grated daikon is a fave) has opened a storefrontlocation in New York City. Tomorrow the world…Green Table Network (www.greentable.net) has launched their 2.0 service, to better offer local

restaurants access to sustainable producers and suppliers, including online guidebooks, DIY tools, on-site verification and support, and more. Chambar Restaurant (www.chambar.com) has become oneof only two restaurants in British Columbia to achieve Carbon Neutral certification. Congrats to hus-band-and-wife team Karri and Nico Schuermans!And in more green news, Trafalgar’s Bistro and Sweet Obsessions Cakes and Pastries

(www.trafalgars.com) might just be least wasteful food service operation in the country. They have elim-inated 100 percent of the organic waste going to landfills and 98 percent of all remaining waste. Fromfilling a Dumpster every week, they now barely fill a plastic garbage bag, all by using the GreenGoodCG-50 composting machine, which composts all waste within 24 hours—and with no odour. NDP Fish-eries and Oceans Critic Fin Donnelly has launched a shark fin import ban petition. Shark fin soup is apopular dish at traditional Chinese weddings, and is also sought after for its purported medicinal prop-erties. For more info on the ban petition, visit www.sharktruth.com.David Gunawan, former EC at West, is back from a three-month stint in Belgium with a new concept

in dining labelled ph5 ([email protected]), a cooperative food and dining movement. Weekly din-ners happen every Wednesday around the city until April, at which point they will be monthly. Fivecourses for $70. Email for details. Jay Jones, barman extraordinaire at Market by Jean-Georges(www.marketbyjgvancouver.com) in the Shangri-La Hotel, has been named Bartender of the Year byEnroute Magazine. —Anya Levykh

NANAIMO: As we come out of the foodie quiet season it is evident that a collection of innovativerestaurateurs have been busy redesigning their dining rooms, menus and dishes. Overall the approachis literally fresh with an increased use of local ingredients and culinary creativity that is on the rise likea perfectly crafted loaf of bread. A trend for offering gourmet dining and take-home artisanal foods all

45

in one place is making the mid-island food scenemore enticing than ever! And now for the highlights:Riso Foods Inc. (www.risofoodsinc.com; 250-390-0777) Upon entering this Lantzville bistro yoursenses are immediately captured by irresistible aro-mas and a wall of fresh wood-fired baked breads.Next a menu of seasonal dishes crafted with thecreative flare of chefs Sarah Wallbank andMatthew Sheppard fuels your anticipation. Iwas particularly taken with the sunchoke soup, es-pecially after hearing the chokes were grown inSarah’s garden. As the menu changes with the sea-son one familiar bite remains the wood-fired pizzamade with magic by Sarah’s husband Taka. Youwon’t want to leave without tucking a loaf underyour arm…Markt Artisan Deli (www.marktartisandeli.com;(250) 585-5337) You may have noticed Marktgets regular mention in this Buzz. This is becausechef Ryan Zuvich and his team are on an endlesspath of innovation. Now a Brasserie Menu featur-ing amazing classic yet contemporary dishes is onoffer Thursday-Saturday weekly. Through a win-dow from the deli to the kitchen you can see chef atwork preparing house-made charcuterie, salad,gourmet entrees and desserts. It is the lamb with or-ange olive sauce that found a special place on mypalate. You won’t want to leave without something(like their house-cured bacon) from the deli case.Danforth Deli and Grill (www.danforthdeli.com;(250) 591-1742) Here owner Ben Bryce has re-vived the kind of comforting lunch you may re-member running home for as a school-kid. Usingbreads baked before opening he builds a varietyof towering grilled cheese sandwiches you willnever forget. While I started as a skeptic about Buf-

falo chicken in a grill cheese I am now a convert!Takeaways include exceptionally tasty meatpies and an unusual selection of specialty cheeses. Urban Beet Real Food Cafe (www.urbanbeet.ca;250-390-9722) Not just for lunch anymore! A newmanagement team has been implementing tableservice and adding dinner and brunch to the menuwhile new chef Lisa Lipieg has been busy innovat-ing thematic dishes that include beet-based healthyplatters and an amazing “Beet Bomb” starter. Othernotables include a selection of gourmet burgers,corn tortilla tacos and the great take-away foodsUrban Beet has become known for.Nest Bistro (486A Franklyn St.; 250-591-2721)Many locals are already in the know about thecomforting fare at this neighborhood eatery inNanaimo’s Old City Quarter. A little birdie from theNest has told me that a new menu is ready forlaunch by March 1st. It is without a doubt that thenew dishes will reflect the same passion chefs NickBraun and Jennifer Ash have put into their foodsince opening last year. The little birdie has beentweeting about a great new wine list too!City Square Grill (www.citysquaregrill.com; 250-746-1700) The newest kids on the block in down-town Duncan are City Square Grill’s passionateyoung team led by owner Jaimie Schmidt. Work-ing with island suppliers this enthusiastic group havedeveloped a sophisticated menu featuring housecurry and specialty ravioli entrees. Definitely wortha visit to get your spice on! —Karma Brophy

TOFINO: There are two major upcoming eventsthat help us far-flung west coasters welcome spring. The Pacific Rim Whale Festival, March 17-25, isa long-running festival (now in its 26th year) that

celebrates the return of migrating whales from theirsouthern winter-feeding grounds with many enter-taining events. Several food and drink-focusedWhale Festival events also help us to break out ofthat winter funk. Chef Nick Nutting and the kitchenbrigade at the Pointe Restaurant at the Wick-aninnish Inn will be hosting the Whale FestivalGala dinner and Silent Auction fundraiser on March15. The Wickaninnish has been donating 100% ofthe proceeds from this dinner for the past 14 years,and last year raised $20,000 for the festival.www.wickinn.com or call 250-725-3100. TheChowder Chowdown is a not-to-be-missed WhaleFestival event, with local chefs serving up their bestseafood chowder offerings to the public and apanel of judges. This event takes place Sunday,March 18 at the Ucluelet Community Centre. SweetIndulgences is Whale Fest’s answer to a dessertlovers’ dream – all you can eat dessert! Locals offerup their best family recipes while attendees vote ontheir favourite treats, and it’s all set to live musicMarch 22 at the Ucluelet Community Centre. BlackRock Oceanfront Resort will be hosting the Bar-nacle Blues concert, also on March 22. This eventis all about gourmet appetizers from local chefs andcomplementary beverages, as well as fantasticblues music from Jim Byrnes and Headwater.www.blackrockresort.com. 250-726-4800. For de-tails visit www.pacificrimwhalefestival.com/events. The Tofino-Ucluelet Culinary Guild

(http://www.tucg.ca) is busy with preparations forthe 2nd annual Feast Tofino-Ucluelet festival, setfor May 14-31. This festival recognizes the area’sfoodie appeal with dock festivals featuring localand guest chefs, live music and seafood tasting, andspecial “Feast About Town” menus at local

restaurants. Accommodation providers and touroperators also offer specials during Feast. I’m hop-ing for more specifics for the May/June edition, butin the meantime visit www.feastbc.com and followFeast BC on Facebook. The TUCG also heads up quite the healthy lunch

program at Wickaninnish Community Schooland they’ve just announced that chef Rick Moore,formerly of his own Café Pamplona, theWickaninnish Inn and Shelter Restaurant, will bedelighting the palates of Tofino’s youngest dinersby taking on the program starting this year. “Foranyone who has shared a kitchen with him theyknow he is hard-working, humble, caring, and hasbeen a real positive influence for a lot of youngchefs in Tofino,” states information about Moorefrom the TUCG. The Spotted Bear Bistro took a brief break from

their weekend brunch over the winter, but thankfullyit’s back. Chef Vincent Fraissange will have Sun-day brunch until Easter weekend, when it will startrunning Saturdays as well. This, of course, in addi-tion to his regular seven days a week dinner servicestarting at 5:30pm. www.spottedbearbistro.com orcall 250-725-2215. If you’re making Easter weekend plans to come visit,also check out the Easter-themed brunch at thePointe Restaurant. It runs from 8am-2pm on Sun-day, April 8th, and will feature a chocolate tastingand demonstration by pastry chef Matt Wilson.For more information, visit www.wickinn.com or call250-725-3100. —Jen DartNOTE: The COMOX BUZZ by Eli Blake isavailable online this issue. Visitwww.eatmagazine.ca and enter Comox Buzz intoSearch.


Cont’d on the next page

The Buzz

1715 Government [email protected]

Dinner 5:30 - 11 pmTuesday to Saturday


250-389-1856

michaeltourigny.com

MICHAELTOURIGNYSTUDIOS

P H O T O G R A P H YFood

[email protected] Douglas Street - Unit F

chefs talk— compiled by Ceara Lornie

Peter De Bruyn - Strathcona Hotel, 250.383.7137Forums are helpful to find places to eat, however the majority of reviews are eitherpoor or great. People are more likely to blog a poor experience which can harm anestablishment. Alternatively all great reviews lead to disappoint—like when customershave artificially high expectations. When my wife and I travel, we search for places tostay and eat online and make our choices by price point, location and pictures.

Anna Hunt- Paprika Bistro, 250.592.7424I think these forums can be very useful, if taken with a grain of salt. People mustremember that their experience may not be the same as that of other guests. If thecomplaints or accolades are consistently about the same things then it is a pretty goodbet they are true. I certainly use those forums when looking for somewhere to dine orstay when visiting strange cities.

Jena Stewart - Devour Bistro & Catering, 250.590.3231I think blogs, Yelp, and TripAdvisor are so important. I recently went away and usedboth TripAdvisor as well as Urbanspoon to get an edge on the scene in Sante Fe. I am notsaying that I would agree now that we’ve eaten at some of the highest regardedrestaurant, but I did find places that I would not have sought out otherwise… I woulddisagree with some people’s choices but we get to have opinions as long as people arenot rude with their findings!

Patrick Lynch - Foo, 250.383.3111Undoubtedly there are some informed contributors to online review forums submit-ting thoughtful analysis of their dining experiences. Fine. Unfortunately, these forumsalso provide a soapbox for unenlightened half-wits to slander restaurants. Forexample, one online “food critic” once stated as a matter of fact that at Foo we usecanned pineapple rather than fresh, an assertion that is categorically incorrect. Thetrouble with these forums is that when false and damaging statements are made thereis no recourse for the restaurant. An investment of twelve bucks on a meal should notentitle you to publicly criticize the inspiration of a chef or the hard work of aprofessional kitchen. If you aren’t happy, tell your server or write the place an email.

Sean Brennan - Brasserie L’Ecole, 250.475.6260I would need the whole page to respond to this question.

Quang Dang- West Restaurant + Bar, 604.738.8938I believe that, over time, the truth about a really good (or really bad) restaurant willemerge. So we always welcome feedback, be it positive (which fortunately is usuallythe case for us), or constructive criticism. If we stub our toe, experienced diners knowto take it up with us directly, either during service when we can respond immediatelyor by getting in touch with us the next day. Diners should be aware that some reviewsare biased, but overall, the consumer is generally well-served by a little on-lineresearch, balanced by their own experiences.

Sheila Jones, The Vanilla Pod Restaurant, 250.494.8222.As far as the forums, they are both a great tool and not a great tool. We know manypeople who use them as a guide to decide where to go and where not to go. Thefrustrating part is that you are dealing with people's personal perceptions and notalways tangible issues. Having said that - everyone's opinions must be heard and ifpossible acted upon.

WWhhaatt ddo you think of online review forums such as

TTrriippAAddvvisor, Urbanspoon, blogs etc. Do they help or

hhiinnddeerr diners?

Victoria has just gained another brewery: Hoyne Brewing,with the motto: “Drink Hoyne for Smarts, Strength, andStamina.” Sean Hoyne has had the dream of opening his ownbrewery for a very long time. “I put my dream on hold while Iwas raising a family”, says Sean. “Meanwhile, I was perfectingmy brewing craft at Canoe and Swans brewpubs. I figured it wasnow or never!” Sean started with a science degree specialising inbiochemistry and microbiology. Along the way he also did a oneyear business degree, and then switched to a MA in literature atthe University of Victoria. “I’m quite liberally educated”, laughsSean. It was while he was at UVic that he met legendary BCBrewing guru Frank Appleton. Frank was setting up thebrewery at Swans Hotel in Victoria, and interviewed Sean forthe job of brewer there. Sean recalls that he brought a six-packof his homebrew with recipes to the interview, but “Frank andI just talked about literature.” New-hire Sean worked with Frankfor a few months before Frank left, leaving Sean on his own.After his time with Swans, Sean moved down the street to openCanoe Brewpub, where he remained for 13 years, establishingtheir beer program and distinctive style. Sean’s goal now is to have a sustainable, environmentally

responsible, financially viable company, one where he issurrounded by great people. Sean goes beyond the company when he mentions thelatter - he says that he loves just hanging out with other brewers. He was renownedfor inviting the brewing community to regular Friday afternoon “safety meetings”during his tenure at Canoe. Hoyne Brewing will have a significantly large number of beers in the future. There

are nine on the planning board, with four currently in production. Down Easy Pale Aleis made with Superior Pale, Golden Promise, and Thomas Fawcett Marris Otter malts,with some Crystal and Carastan added to get the lovely round mouth feel. Northwesthops used are mainly Willamette and Cascades. This reminds one very much of SierraNevada Pale Ale. For the Hoyner Pilsner Sean went for a strong malt character usingtons of Vienna and Munich malts plus some German Carapils and Aromatic malts. Thebittering hops are primarily Saaz, with Hallertauer Mittelfruh, and German Select for thefinish. This beer pours with a beautiful thick white head, a hint of the excellent fullbody that this authentic Pilsner has.Devils Dream IPA was brewed with seven different hops including the big citrusy

NW varieties: Amarillo, Simcoe, Citra and Centennial. Sean did not want to discussIBU’s as he considers that a poor way to describe a beer. “It’s all about hop character,”he said. When I visited the brewery in early January, Sean was just adding the hops tothe boil for the first batch of Big Cock Bock. “This is going to be a malt bomb. I’madding just enough hops to give this beer balance” he said. The main malt is SuperiorPilsner malt, together with Chocolate, Carastan, Crystal, Vienna, Munich, Carapils,and Aromatic malts. The hops are German Hersbrucker. If these beers are typical of thisbrewery then the future looks well for Hoyne Brewing.—by John Rowling

New Brewery Launches

Tasting Notes —by Treve RingHoyner Pilsner 5.3%Bright, pale yellow gold in the glass, with crisp citrus and mild cereal notes, opening up to honey aro-mas. Bright and refreshing, with grapefruit rind finish.

Down Easy Pale Ale 5.2%Tangerine orange in hue and aroma, with easy-drinking mild hop character.

Devil’s Dream IPA 6%Golden tones, with assertive toasty earth, grass and hop characters. Quite smooth with good mouthfeel,and a touch of caramel on the lengthy finish.

Big Cock Bock 6.5%Amber-brownish pour, with a subtle roasted malt, cocoa powder nose. Creamy, mouth filling midpalate,so smooth it deceptively tricks you into thinking it’s lighter than it is. Cocky Bock.

*Read about EAT’s experience at Oak Bay Bistro’s Hoyne Brewmaster Dinner online at eatmagazine.ca


2524 estevan ave | victoria | paprika-bistro.com

ph: 250.592.7424 dinner ~ monday to saturday from 5:30pm

with Stuart Brown ~ Tuesday March 27th, 7pm

$35* - wine & food tasting Reserve Today

chefs talk— compiled by Ceara Lornie

Peter De Bruyn - Strathcona Hotel, 250.383.7137Forums are helpful to find places to eat, however the majority of reviews are eitherpoor or great. People are more likely to blog a poor experience which can harm anestablishment. Alternatively all great reviews lead to disappoint—like when customershave artificially high expectations. When my wife and I travel, we search for places tostay and eat online and make our choices by price point, location and pictures.

Anna Hunt- Paprika Bistro, 250.592.7424I think these forums can be very useful, if taken with a grain of salt. People mustremember that their experience may not be the same as that of other guests. If thecomplaints or accolades are consistently about the same things then it is a pretty goodbet they are true. I certainly use those forums when looking for somewhere to dine orstay when visiting strange cities.

Jena Stewart - Devour Bistro & Catering, 250.590.3231I think blogs, Yelp, and TripAdvisor are so important. I recently went away and usedboth TripAdvisor as well as Urbanspoon to get an edge on the scene in Sante Fe. I am notsaying that I would agree now that we’ve eaten at some of the highest regardedrestaurant, but I did find places that I would not have sought out otherwise… I woulddisagree with some people’s choices but we get to have opinions as long as people arenot rude with their findings!

Patrick Lynch - Foo, 250.383.3111Undoubtedly there are some informed contributors to online review forums submit-ting thoughtful analysis of their dining experiences. Fine. Unfortunately, these forumsalso provide a soapbox for unenlightened half-wits to slander restaurants. Forexample, one online “food critic” once stated as a matter of fact that at Foo we usecanned pineapple rather than fresh, an assertion that is categorically incorrect. Thetrouble with these forums is that when false and damaging statements are made thereis no recourse for the restaurant. An investment of twelve bucks on a meal should notentitle you to publicly criticize the inspiration of a chef or the hard work of aprofessional kitchen. If you aren’t happy, tell your server or write the place an email.

Sean Brennan - Brasserie L’Ecole, 250.475.6260I would need the whole page to respond to this question.

Quang Dang- West Restaurant + Bar, 604.738.8938I believe that, over time, the truth about a really good (or really bad) restaurant willemerge. So we always welcome feedback, be it positive (which fortunately is usuallythe case for us), or constructive criticism. If we stub our toe, experienced diners knowto take it up with us directly, either during service when we can respond immediatelyor by getting in touch with us the next day. Diners should be aware that some reviewsare biased, but overall, the consumer is generally well-served by a little on-lineresearch, balanced by their own experiences.

Sheila Jones, The Vanilla Pod Restaurant, 250.494.8222.As far as the forums, they are both a great tool and not a great tool. We know manypeople who use them as a guide to decide where to go and where not to go. Thefrustrating part is that you are dealing with people's personal perceptions and notalways tangible issues. Having said that - everyone's opinions must be heard and ifpossible acted upon.

WWhhaatt ddoo yyoouu tthhiinnkk ooff oonnlliinnee rreevviieeww ffoorruummss ssuucchh aass

TTrriippAAddvviissoorr,, UUrrbbaannssppoooonn,, bbllooggss eettcc.. DDoo tthheeyy hheellpp oorr

hhiinnddeerr ddiinneerrss??

Victoria has just gained another brewery: Hoyne Brewing,with the motto: “Drink Hoyne for Smarts, Strength, andStamina.” Sean Hoyne has had the dream of opening his ownbrewery for a very long time. “I put my dream on hold while Iwas raising a family”, says Sean. “Meanwhile, I was perfectingmy brewing craft at Canoe and Swans brewpubs. I figured it wasnow or never!” Sean started with a science degree specialising inbiochemistry and microbiology. Along the way he also did a oneyear business degree, and then switched to a MA in literature atthe University of Victoria. “I’m quite liberally educated”, laughsSean. It was while he was at UVic that he met legendary BCBrewing guru Frank Appleton. Frank was setting up thebrewery at Swans Hotel in Victoria, and interviewed Sean forthe job of brewer there. Sean recalls that he brought a six-packof his homebrew with recipes to the interview, but “Frank andI just talked about literature.” New-hire Sean worked with Frankfor a few months before Frank left, leaving Sean on his own.After his time with Swans, Sean moved down the street to openCanoe Brewpub, where he remained for 13 years, establishingtheir beer program and distinctive style. Sean’s goal now is to have a sustainable, environmentally

responsible, financially viable company, one where he issurrounded by great people. Sean goes beyond the company when he mentions thelatter - he says that he loves just hanging out with other brewers. He was renownedfor inviting the brewing community to regular Friday afternoon “safety meetings”during his tenure at Canoe. Hoyne Brewing will have a significantly large number of beers in the future. There

are nine on the planning board, with four currently in production. Down Easy Pale Aleis made with Superior Pale, Golden Promise, and Thomas Fawcett Marris Otter malts,with some Crystal and Carastan added to get the lovely round mouth feel. Northwesthops used are mainly Willamette and Cascades. This reminds one very much of SierraNevada Pale Ale. For the Hoyner Pilsner Sean went for a strong malt character usingtons of Vienna and Munich malts plus some German Carapils and Aromatic malts. Thebittering hops are primarily Saaz, with Hallertauer Mittelfruh, and German Select for thefinish. This beer pours with a beautiful thick white head, a hint of the excellent fullbody that this authentic Pilsner has.Devils Dream IPA was brewed with seven different hops including the big citrusy

NW varieties: Amarillo, Simcoe, Citra and Centennial. Sean did not want to discussIBU’s as he considers that a poor way to describe a beer. “It’s all about hop character,”he said. When I visited the brewery in early January, Sean was just adding the hops tothe boil for the first batch of Big Cock Bock. “This is going to be a malt bomb. I’madding just enough hops to give this beer balance” he said. The main malt is SuperiorPilsner malt, together with Chocolate, Carastan, Crystal, Vienna, Munich, Carapils,and Aromatic malts. The hops are German Hersbrucker. If these beers are typical of thisbrewery then the future looks well for Hoyne Brewing.—by John Rowling

New Brewery Launches

Tasting Notes —by Treve RingHoyner Pilsner 5.3%Bright, pale yellow gold in the glass, with crisp citrus and mild cereal notes, opening up to honey aro-mas. Bright and refreshing, with grapefruit rind finish.

Down Easy Pale Ale 5.2%Tangerine orange in hue and aroma, with easy-drinking mild hop character.

Devil’s Dream IPA 6%Golden tones, with assertive toasty earth, grass and hop characters. Quite smooth with good mouthfeel,and a touch of caramel on the lengthy finish.

Big Cock Bock 6.5%Amber-brownish pour, with a subtle roasted malt, cocoa powder nose. Creamy, mouth filling midpalate,so smooth it deceptively tricks you into thinking it’s lighter than it is. Cocky Bock.

*Read about EAT’s experience at Oak Bay Bistro’s Hoyne Brewmaster Dinner online at eatmagazine.ca



The Buzz OKANAGAN BUZZ: Much abuzz in the Okanagan as we head into spring.

Summerland’s fine dining restaurant, The Vanilla Pod, moves across the lake to

Poplar Grove Winery, located at the entrance of the Naramata Bench, with open-

ing scheduled for late spring. Summerland residents can still enjoy the Vanilla Pod

close to home when the Vanilla Pod Grill opens for their first season at the

Summerland Golf and Country Club on March 15th. Summerland also has a new

restaurant, The Stuffed Pepper open for lunch Tuesday to Saturday and for

dinner Friday and Saturday evenings in the space previously occupied by Victoria

Road and Deli. The focus is on traditional Middle Eastern food combined with mod-

ern Canadian cuisine. Well-know Penticton Farmer Market favorite Gigi Huscroft

aka “the cupcake lady” has opened the delightful Cupcake Lady Café (66 Front

Street) in downtown Penticton. Front Street has many good eateries to choose from

including Isshin Sushi Bar, Dream Café, Ginza Sushi, newly opened Wild

Scallion and just around the corner on Westminister Ave, the not to be missed

Burger 55.

Grant De Montreil is the new Executive Chef at West Kelowna’s Bonfire Grill

located at the Cove Resort. De Montreil’s culinary talent already has a loyal local

following and combined with West Kelowna’s only waterfront patio, the Bonfire

Grill is a must-destination for excellent food, wine and stunning lakefront views. In

Kelowna, celebrate Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar’s beautiful renova-

tions and expansion with a reservation. Zia’s Italian Fine Foods has opened at

1913 Kent Road and combines an Italian grocery store, deli and café. The home-

made hot Panini’s are sure to be popular with the nearby office lunch crowd. The

Kelowna Farmer’s Market is open indoors on Saturdays from 9:00am to 1:00pm

at the Parkinson Recreation Centre.

The Okanagan now has two authentic Vietnamese restaurants to satisfy all your

Pho needs. (Pho- delicious Vietnamese noodle soup with beef, chicken or vegetar-

ian options) – Pho Soc Trang (1530 Water Street) located upstairs on the second

floor in downtown Kelowna and Summerland’s Pho Vietnamese (7702 Prairie

Valley Road).

Duck fat is proving to be the ingredient du jour of 2012. It is gaining in popular-

ity as a healthy alternative for frying or roasting foods and for the wonderful flavor,

it adds to almost any dish. Roasted potatoes and vegetables in duck fat are truly

sublime. Find it locally at Tony’s Meat and Deli. (Apple Plaza-1848 Main Street,

Penticton)

Finally, Easter long-weekend is an ideal getaway to the Okanagan. Both Sun

Peaks and Big White ski resorts are open for your last chance to enjoy the snow

and après cocktails in the afternoon sun. Or take advantage of the Okanagan

hotels/bed-breakfasts spring-season rates and enjoy wine touring without the

crowds. This spring accomplish the Okanagan’s claim to fame- a morning game of

golf, an afternoon on the ski slopes and an early evening water-ski on the lake

followed by a well-deserved dinner at one of the Okanagan’s award-winning

restaurants. Happy Easter! —Claire Sear

E xecutive Chef Mark Filatrow of Kelowna’s Waterfront Restaurant and WineBar is one of the Okanagan’s top chefs both for his culinary talent andformidable wine knowledge. Quiet and unassuming, Mark is extremely focused in

the kitchen, loved by his loyal staff and both respected and well-liked amongst his peers. Mark was born into a family with a great appreciation for food where his European

heritage provided a culinary melting pot of home-made Russian, Jewish, Ukrainian,German, and Danish dishes. Growing up in Mississauga, Ontario, Mark was alsoinfluenced by his predominantly Italian neighborhood where the smell of grilledpeppers was a signal that summer had arrived. After high-school, he headed to the WestCoast, skiing and working the lower ranks of the kitchens in Whistler Resort. TheUniversity of British Columbia proved successful in the introduction to his now wifebut he switched to Dubrulle Culinary Institute, after the realization that he preferredworking in the campus kitchen, where he graduated with honors. After a season as head-chef/dishwasher with a tree-planting crew which covered his

student debt, Mark began his culinary apprentice in 1996 working with chef RodButters at Tofino’s Wickannish Inn which included the added bonus of learning to surf.After two years, he headed back to Vancouver and worked for Chef John Bishop at

Bishops Restaurant, followed by Diva at the Met Restaurant under Canadian Iron Chef,Michael Noble. In 2001, he again joined Chef Rod Butters along with Audrey Surrao, aspart of the opening team of Kelowna’s revolutionary fine-dining restaurant, Fresco (nowthe contemporary RauDZ). The dream of running his own restaurant came to fruition in November 2004, when

he opened Kelowna’s Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar which overnight became aninstant success. Numerous awards followed including an award as one of “Canada’s BestNew Restaurants” by EnRoute Magazine and five consecutive years of Wine Spectator’s“Award of Excellence”. In the restaurant world, where customers are often fickle andtoday’s hotspot can be yesterday’s news, Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar has stoodthe test of time. Mark enjoys raising his family in the Okanagan and skiing is a favorite family

activity. Along with raising two young children, Mark mentors many young andupcoming Chefs as well as running Details Catering. Find Mark’s wonderful line of dipsperfect for home entertaining such as Smokey Eggplant Caponta in Kelowna at Okana-gan Grocery Artisan Breads under the Details Catering label. Mark takes great pride in sourcing locally and working with small independent farm-

ers. When he couldn’t find local Russet potatoes, he managed to convince John Cox ofSweet Life Farms to grow them and today they are one of the farm’s best sellingpotatoes. Mark also grows almost all of the restaurant’s herbs and tomatoes on his smallfarm called “Eldorado” which includes his much-loved Italian Plum tree yielding nearlytwo hundred pounds of fruit and prized family heirloom Swedish Brown Beans.Menus change to reflect the best of the season and as one of only a handful of

Canadian chefs, accepted into the International Sommelier Guild, the suggested foodand wine pairings at Waterfront Restaurant are truly exceptional. For an insider’s guideto some of the Okanagan’s best wines simply follow Waterfront Restaurant’s changingwine list. In March after being closed for three months, Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar

celebrates re-opening following a nearly double in size expansion and renovation.Reservations may now be just a little easier to come by. Open Mon. thru Sat. from 5pm.Closed Sundays. #104-1180 Sunset Drive, Kelowna. —By Claire Sear

CHEF PROFILE: Mark Filatrow of Kelowna’s Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar

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The Buzz OKANAGAN BUZZ: Much abuzz in the Okanagan as we head into spring.

Summerland’s fine dining restaurant, The Vanilla Pod, moves across the lake to

Poplar Grove Winery, located at the entrance of the Naramata Bench, with open-

ing scheduled for late spring. Summerland residents can still enjoy the Vanilla Pod

close to home when the Vanilla Pod Grill opens for their first season at the

Summerland Golf and Country Club on March 15th. Summerland also has a new

restaurant, The Stuffed Pepper open for lunch Tuesday to Saturday and for

dinner Friday and Saturday evenings in the space previously occupied by Victoria

Road and Deli. The focus is on traditional Middle Eastern food combined with mod-

ern Canadian cuisine. Well-know Penticton Farmer Market favorite Gigi Huscroft

aka “the cupcake lady” has opened the delightful Cupcake Lady Café (66 Front

Street) in downtown Penticton. Front Street has many good eateries to choose from

including Isshin Sushi Bar, Dream Café, Ginza Sushi, newly opened Wild

Scallion and just around the corner on Westminister Ave, the not to be missed

Burger 55.

Grant De Montreil is the new Executive Chef at West Kelowna’s Bonfire Grill

located at the Cove Resort. De Montreil’s culinary talent already has a loyal local

following and combined with West Kelowna’s only waterfront patio, the Bonfire

Grill is a must-destination for excellent food, wine and stunning lakefront views. In

Kelowna, celebrate Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar’s beautiful renova-

tions and expansion with a reservation. Zia’s Italian Fine Foods has opened at

1913 Kent Road and combines an Italian grocery store, deli and café. The home-

made hot Panini’s are sure to be popular with the nearby office lunch crowd. The

Kelowna Farmer’s Market is open indoors on Saturdays from 9:00am to 1:00pm

at the Parkinson Recreation Centre.

The Okanagan now has two authentic Vietnamese restaurants to satisfy all your

Pho needs. (Pho- delicious Vietnamese noodle soup with beef, chicken or vegetar-

ian options) – Pho Soc Trang (1530 Water Street) located upstairs on the second

floor in downtown Kelowna and Summerland’s Pho Vietnamese (7702 Prairie

Valley Road).

Duck fat is proving to be the ingredient du jour of 2012. It is gaining in popular-

ity as a healthy alternative for frying or roasting foods and for the wonderful flavor,

it adds to almost any dish. Roasted potatoes and vegetables in duck fat are truly

sublime. Find it locally at Tony’s Meat and Deli. (Apple Plaza-1848 Main Street,

Penticton)

Finally, Easter long-weekend is an ideal getaway to the Okanagan. Both Sun

Peaks and Big White ski resorts are open for your last chance to enjoy the snow

and après cocktails in the afternoon sun. Or take advantage of the Okanagan

hotels/bed-breakfasts spring-season rates and enjoy wine touring without the

crowds. This spring accomplish the Okanagan’s claim to fame- a morning game of

golf, an afternoon on the ski slopes and an early evening water-ski on the lake

followed by a well-deserved dinner at one of the Okanagan’s award-winning

restaurants. Happy Easter! —Claire Sear

E xecutive Chef Mark Filatrow of Kelowna’s Waterfront Restaurant and WineBar is one of the Okanagan’s top chefs both for his culinary talent andformidable wine knowledge. Quiet and unassuming, Mark is extremely focused in

the kitchen, loved by his loyal staff and both respected and well-liked amongst his peers. Mark was born into a family with a great appreciation for food where his European

heritage provided a culinary melting pot of home-made Russian, Jewish, Ukrainian,German, and Danish dishes. Growing up in Mississauga, Ontario, Mark was alsoinfluenced by his predominantly Italian neighborhood where the smell of grilledpeppers was a signal that summer had arrived. After high-school, he headed to the WestCoast, skiing and working the lower ranks of the kitchens in Whistler Resort. TheUniversity of British Columbia proved successful in the introduction to his now wifebut he switched to Dubrulle Culinary Institute, after the realization that he preferredworking in the campus kitchen, where he graduated with honors. After a season as head-chef/dishwasher with a tree-planting crew which covered his

student debt, Mark began his culinary apprentice in 1996 working with chef RodButters at Tofino’s Wickannish Inn which included the added bonus of learning to surf.After two years, he headed back to Vancouver and worked for Chef John Bishop at

Bishops Restaurant, followed by Diva at the Met Restaurant under Canadian Iron Chef,Michael Noble. In 2001, he again joined Chef Rod Butters along with Audrey Surrao, aspart of the opening team of Kelowna’s revolutionary fine-dining restaurant, Fresco (nowthe contemporary RauDZ). The dream of running his own restaurant came to fruition in November 2004, when

he opened Kelowna’s Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar which overnight became aninstant success. Numerous awards followed including an award as one of “Canada’s BestNew Restaurants” by EnRoute Magazine and five consecutive years of Wine Spectator’s“Award of Excellence”. In the restaurant world, where customers are often fickle andtoday’s hotspot can be yesterday’s news, Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar has stoodthe test of time. Mark enjoys raising his family in the Okanagan and skiing is a favorite family

activity. Along with raising two young children, Mark mentors many young andupcoming Chefs as well as running Details Catering. Find Mark’s wonderful line of dipsperfect for home entertaining such as Smokey Eggplant Caponta in Kelowna at Okana-gan Grocery Artisan Breads under the Details Catering label. Mark takes great pride in sourcing locally and working with small independent farm-

ers. When he couldn’t find local Russet potatoes, he managed to convince John Cox ofSweet Life Farms to grow them and today they are one of the farm’s best sellingpotatoes. Mark also grows almost all of the restaurant’s herbs and tomatoes on his smallfarm called “Eldorado” which includes his much-loved Italian Plum tree yielding nearlytwo hundred pounds of fruit and prized family heirloom Swedish Brown Beans.Menus change to reflect the best of the season and as one of only a handful of

Canadian chefs, accepted into the International Sommelier Guild, the suggested foodand wine pairings at Waterfront Restaurant are truly exceptional. For an insider’s guideto some of the Okanagan’s best wines simply follow Waterfront Restaurant’s changingwine list. In March after being closed for three months, Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar

celebrates re-opening following a nearly double in size expansion and renovation.Reservations may now be just a little easier to come by. Open Mon. thru Sat. from 5pm.Closed Sundays. #104-1180 Sunset Drive, Kelowna. —By Claire Sear

CHEF PROFILE: Mark Filatrow of Kelowna’s Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar

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eat magazine march | april 2012

Documents

wine food pairing

claire sear

anya levykh

food matters

ly o w n e d s u s ta

exceptional customer

delivein bc includkelowna

wine terroir38liquid