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ContributoAndrei FedoJernigan, ChMartin, KathRing, Kira RoWeinstock,Publisher PAdvertisingLorraine Br(Tofino), Ga250.384.90All departmBox 5225, Vwww.eatmaSince 1998 |reproduced witPacific Island Gopinions expreIsland Gourmet

ConciergeMeet theArtisan FoEpicure atGood for YChefs TalkVictoria RLocal KitcWhat’s inNathan’sVancouveThe BC FoLiquid AssIsland WiWine & TeDIY . . . . .

3www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2009

Enjoy casual coastal cuisine, spectacular sunsets, local craft beers on tap, BC’s best boutique wines, sushi &

sake bar and the most delicious hand-made �re-grilled AAA beef or Salt Spring Island lamb burgers.

Reservations 250-544-2079849 Verdier Ave, Brentwood Bay brentwoodbaylodge.com

Open daily for lunch & dinnerfrom 11:30am to midnight.

Gather with friends and family at Victoria’sfavourite pub & sunniest seaside patios.

!IN THIS ISSUE

eatmagazine July | August 2009

Cover recipe pg.31Photo by Michael Tourigny

Editor in Chief Gary HynesContributing Editor Carolyn Bateman, Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg

Editorial Assistant/web editor Katie ZdybelCommunity ReportersVictoria: Katie Zdybel, Nanaimo: Su Grimmer, Comox Valley: Hans Peter MeyerTofino | Uclulet: Kira Rogers, Vancouver: Julie Pegg, Okanagan: Jennifer Schell

Contributors Larry Arnold, Michelle Bouffard, Jennifer Danter, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon,Andrei Fedorov, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Lorraine Forster, Duncan Holmes, MaraJernigan, Chris Johns, Tracey Kusiewicz, Tara Lee, Andrew Lewis, Ceara Lornie, SherriMartin, Kathryn McAree, Michaela Morris, Colin Newell, Julie Pegg, Karen Platt, TreveRing, Kira Rogers, John Schreiner, John Sherlock, Elizabeth Smyth, Michael Tourigny, SylviaWeinstock, Rebecca WellmanPublisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark.Advertising:Lorraine Browne (Vancouver Island), Paul Kamon (Vancouver), Kira Rogers(Tofino), Gary Hynes (agencies, regional and national).250.384.9042, [email protected] departmentsBox 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4, tel. 250-384-9042, fax. 250-384-6915www.eatmagazine.ca eatjobs.ca epicureandtravel.comSince 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may bereproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy,Pacific Island Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. Allopinions expressed in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. PacificIsland Gourmet reserves the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

Concierge Desk . . . . . . 5Meet the Locals . . . . . . 6Artisan Foods . . . . . . . 7Epicure at Large . . . . . . 9Good for You . . . . . . . . 12Chefs Talk . . . . . . . . . . 14Victoria Reporter . . . . 16Local Kitchen . . . . . . . 22What’s in Season? . . . 27Nathan’s Recipes . . . .28Vancouver Reporter . .32The BC Food Scene . . 36Liquid Assets . . . . . . . 41Island Wine . . . . . . . . .42Wine & Terroir . . . . . . .44DIY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

4 EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2009

Editor’s Note:

IN THE DETAILS—By Katie Zdybel

A friend of mine recently returned from dinner at Chez Panisse in Berkeley with a grainof criticism spiking her otherwise sublime experience. “Dessert,” she informedme, “wasa peach on a plate. A peach on a plate!” The juiciest, most succulent peach she’d evertasted prettily perched on a simple and elegant plate, mind you, but she was grossly un-derwhelmed. When I expressed to her how much I thought I would appreciate such agraceful design, she protested, “but anyone can plunk a peach on a plate.”True. We can all take the time to pluck the most carefully grown and perfectly ripe

peach from the nearest, most nutritious orchard with its roots deep in the richest soil.We can then transport said fruit delicately to the kitchen, artfully choose just the rightplate—one that serves as a canvas and not a distraction— and set it down on the tablewith an air of conviviality and artistry. But when was the last time any of us served andate a peach in this manner when left to our own devices?This interaction got me to thinking about coffee cups, forks, and waiters.When I wander into an unfamilliar café for an Americano and it arrives in a well-de-

signed cup that somehow, just by picking it up, extends its quiet, classic sophisticationto me, I’m delighted. Correspondingly, there’s a fork that surfaces occasionally in mysilverware drawer that I find impossible to eat well with. It was cheaply made, feelsflimsy in the hand, and reminds me too much of bad cafeteria food (it having wound upin the drawer, no doubt, after someone pilched it from a bad cafeteria). The point is, forthose of us attuned to the minutiae, a bad fork can ho-hum a real work-of-art meal.Which leads me to waiters, the men and women who stand on their feet all day at-

tending to the minutiae of flocks of eaters.Just the other day I missed a connection fromQuadra to Cortes Island by seconds and

decided to wander up the hill to the Heriot Bay Inn patio for a bite. Bleary-eyed androad weary from a couple long days in transit, I dropped into a seat completely un-hun-gry, but desperately needing coffee. A waitress appeared to welcome me and spruceup the table. Hot, fresh coffee arrived promptly after that with a pretty little pitcher ofcream and a lovely, heavy spoon. I hemmed and hawed about what to order longer thanthe acceptable amount of time, then feeling like this might annoy the service, explainedthat I wasn’t all that hungry and could take my coffee to go. The waitress was perfectlygracious about this; I was welcome to stay, to eat or not. Enjoy your coffee and the view,was all that was asked of me. Coffee was freshened, water was replenished. I sipped andlistened as the waiters bobbed and weaved around the patio, replaced forks, recitedspecials, got pulled into conversation and laughter. They seemed perfectly pleasedwhen I finally ordered a half-salad and when it arrived it was simple, but full of colour,freshness, and tasted exactly like the right thing at the right time.“Excellent choice,” said the waitress when I picked the walnut honey dressing, as

though I’d just chosen something special from the wine list. There were three servers cir-culating the deck that afternoon and each one of them had the details of their dutiesnicely polished. I was made to feel like I was welcome and being taken care of, ratherthan served or doted on, and their amiable helpfulness felt sincere, not pre-fabricated.Their attitudes made all the difference.Sometimes we can become so focused on the extravagance of a meal out that we

overlook appreciating the small details—a patient waiter, the gentle curve of the waterpitcher, the way someone has angled the table so the light falls just so. Try orderingsomething unfanciful next time you go out —a plain pasta, the house greens, or a soli-tary peach, say— and see what other elements rise to your attention. You may find,even at your own kitchen table, you’ve been missing some of the beauty in the details.

A long with summer’s arrival comes an exciting rush of fresh, local foods. Fromfarmers’ markets, outdoor patios and festivals to backyard grilling and alfrescopicnics, from sausages to big salads—there’s plenty of easy living and good

eating everywhere. What could be better?In this issue our contributors turn their writing skills to summer recipes, wines,

sustainable seafood, the joys of dim sum and as a special nod to those who best exemplifythe BC food community—two local heroes—Metchosin farmer Tom Henry and Vancouverbookseller Barbara-jo McIntosh. ALSO [See pg. 11 for the wine upset of the decade!]From time to time EAT features one of our editors in our Editor’s Note. This issue EAT

website editor Katie Zdybel writes about a stopover she made on a recent trip to CortesIsland. Her contemplations on life and eating are below. Enjoy.—Bon appétit, Gary Hynes, Editor

JulySUMMER NIGFollowing thmarkets, Richcurried fish bshish kabobsSaturdays 7pmto 11pm, strolnosh. 12631 V

ORGANICSUSTAINABIL“Live green. DJuly 4th to 5ththis expo presinformation towork, and plaHarbour Houmore of your fpanies. Checganicislands.c

FAIRBURN FAFairburn Farmaway for famifortable farmhthe days on thkids then join(they providetable farm-fre4th to 11th an250.746.4637

CHAMPAGNEL’ECOLEThe Victoria Wpagne tastingL’ecole chef Sity is limited sfor members,be purchasedBay Road andBarlow, Victo250.592.8466

SUPER SUMMLearn how totrients and flcooling summChampion JuicLaura Moore.berry NectarinPick Up are jutering. July 15Village. Visit w

TASTE: VICTOWINEVictoria’s firstlocal taste ofregions of Brfestival, Tasteences at venuwell as farmsSaanich Peninan extra longand events.www.victoriat

THEFor more


with a grainedme, “wash she’d evers grossly un-ciate such a”erfectly riperichest soil.ust the righton the tableserved and

n a well-de-phisticationonally in mymade, feelsg wound uppoint is, forart meal.t all day at-

econds andry-eyed andtely un-hun-and sprucee pitcher oflonger thane, explainedas perfectlynd the view,sipped andrks, recitedtly pleasedull of colour,

dressing, asservers cir-their dutiesre of, rather-fabricated.

out that weof the waterTry orderingns, or a soli-u may find,the details.

foods. Fromand alfrescong and good

ipes, wines,est exemplifynd Vancouverecade!]his issue EATrip to Cortes

Ready to learn to

Cook like a Chef Thrifty Foods Cooking and Lifestyle Centre has demonstration and hands on classes taught by

renowned local and international chefs.

Learn to prepare delicious new dishes and dine on outstanding cuisine.

Visit thriftyfoods.comfor class details and to register.

Register today and be on your way to cooking like a chef.

Thrifty Foods Tuscany Village is located at the intersection of

Shelbourne and McKenzie, 1626 McKenzie Ave.

JulySUMMER NIGHT MARKETS in RICHMONDFollowing the example of Asia’s eveningmarkets, Richmond will be offering its array ofcurried fish balls, Korean barbeque, Eastershish kabobs and more on summer nights.Saturdays 7pm to midnight and Sundays 7pmto 11pm, stroll the market stands for deliciousnosh. 12631 Vulcan Way, Richmond.

ORGANIC ISLANDS FESTIVAL andSUSTAINABILITY EXPO“Live green. Do good. We’ll show you how.”July 4th to 5th at Victoria’s Glendale Gardensthis expo presents organic products, tips, andinformation to inspire the way you eat, garden,work, and play. Past exhibits include SookeHarbour House, Level Ground Trading, andmore of your favourite local eco-minded com-panies. Check out their website at www.or-ganicislands.ca

FAIRBURN FARM COTTAGE GETAWAYFairburn Farm offers a brilliant summer get-away for families: rent their bright and com-fortable farmhouse cottage and you can spendthe days on the beautiful, rustic farm with thekids then join Mara for dinner on your own(they provide a babysitter) for an unforget-table farm-freshmeal. Two weeks remain: July4th to 11th and August 1st to 8th. Call Mara at250.746.4637 to book it.

CHAMPAGNE TASTING at BRASSERIEL’ECOLEThe Victoria Wine Society is hosting a Cham-pagne tasting on July 12 perfectly paired withL’ecole chef Sean Brennan’s dishes. Availabil-ity is limited so don’t wait to buy tickets: $60for members, $70 for non-members, they canbe purchased at BC Wineguys (2759 CadboroBay Road and 109-230 Cook Street). Call GlennBarlow, Victoria Wine Society President at250.592.8466 for more details.

SUPER SUMMER JUICES and SMOOTHIESLearn how to whip up smoothies rich with nu-trients and flavour or squeeze a fresh andcooling summer juice, demonstrated on aChampion Juicer by whole foods personal chefLaura Moore. The Summer Apple Zing, Black-berry Nectarine Puree Parfait, and CucumberPick Up are just a few to get your mouth wa-tering. July 15th at the Thrifty Foods TuscanyVillage. Visit www.gfyg.ca

TASTE: VICTORIA’S FESTIVAL of FOOD andWINEVictoria’s first annual food and wine offers alocal taste of Vancouver Island and the wineregions of British Columbia. Not just a winefestival, Taste offers culinary tourism experi-ences at venues around downtownVictoria, aswell as farms and vineyards throughout theSaanich Peninsula and Cowichan Valley. Enjoyan extra long weekend of tastings, seminarsand events. July 16th through July 19th.www.victoriataste.com has all the details.

ITALIAN GARDEN PARTY at HART HOUSECelebrate the pleasures of a mid-summerevening with fresh Mediterranean fare andsublime wines from Italy, served in an incom-parable setting. Guests will be welcome tostroll around the beautiful Hart House estatelawn and gardens. Reservations by phone only(604.298.4278). $45 per person, July 22nd.

TEEN SUMMER CAMP at PICAPacific Institute of Culinary Arts welcomesback your teens (ages 10-17) for thier interac-tive and hands-on, 5-day summer camp fea-turing local and international cuisine whichthey can prepare at home. Taught by profes-sional Chef Instructors, teens will be guidedthrough preparations of breakfasts, lunches,dinners, desserts and wrap up the week with ablack-box ‘Iron Chef’ style competition. Cost is$450 per person. Dates available through Julyand August. Call 604.734.4488 to register.

CAMOSUN COLLEGE FOOD and WINEPAIRING WORKSHOPSSet at the historic Dunlop House, CamosunCollege will be hostingWednesday workshopsthrough July. Whip up some tapas, learn howto pair themwith sangria, then taste the fruitsof your labour on July 29. $95 per workshop.To register call 250.370.3550. Learning nevertasted so good!

AugustCHEFS TO THE FIELDShowcasing local produce and the skills of upto 32 restaurants and 3 culinary academies atthe Terra Nova Rural Garden. Culinary compe-titions, music, and silent auction. Supports theTerra Nova Schoolyard Society; connectingkids with the earth. Aug 9. 11am-4pm. 2631Westminster Hwy, Richmond. www.kidsinthe-garden.org

FIRST OKANAGAN FEAST of FIELDSFarmFolk/CityFolk is pleased to announceOkanagan’s first Feast of Fields will be heldAugust 23rd at Summerland’s Valentine Farm.Representing chefs, vintners, artisans, andfarmers from the entire Okanagan and Sim-ilkameen Valleys, this is an event you won’twant to miss. Arrive hungry. Tickets on salenow, visit www.feastoffields.com to purchase.

NORTH SAANICH FLAVOUR TRAILView and experience some hands-on activitiesat farms, wineries, and nurseries that show-case North Saanich food production. Meetyour farmers, shake hands with your vintners,and taste your way through the markets andrestaurants at the peak of summer. August22nd and 23rd, visit www.NorthSaanich.ca formore details.

WINEMAKER’S CULINARY SERIES DINNER,JOIE FARM WINERYTaste an inspired menu featuring the freshestregional cuisine paired with Joie Farm’s winesset at God’s Mountain Estate, 4898 Lake-side/Eastside Road in an idyllic vineyard over-looking Skaha Lake. August 26th, reserve yourspot by calling 250.493.8657.

Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead

THE CONCIERGE DESK by Katie ZdybelFor more events visit THE BULLETIN BOARD at www.eatmagazine.ca


ItalianBakeryItalianBakeryItalianBakeryFrom scratch daily: From scratch daily: From scratch daily:

Gelato, sweets, artisan Gelato, sweets, artisan Gelato, sweets, artisan breads and savouriesbreads and savouriesbreads and savouries...

Exquisite Exquisite Exquisite Northern Italian Northern Italian Northern Italian Baking in Victoria Baking in Victoria Baking in Victoria

since 1978since 1978since 1978

Open Tuesday thru Saturday 8am till 5:30pm3197 Quadra St. at Tolmie Phone 250-388-4557

[email protected]

If there is a sWhether it’smild, butterynibble of chexploded ontCastelvetra

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ARTISMEET THE LOCALS

BillJones

Gary

Hynes

The MastheadA seasoned restaurateur and a young passionate chef make waves in Cowichan Bay

The outside of the charming restaurant is welcoming anddates back to it’s inception as a hotel built way back in 1863.Local wood siding, windows with original glass and a pictur-esque view of the working boats tied up at the governmentdock catch your eye as you approach the front door. Insidethe décor is rustic and comforting, dominated by a barcrammed with a commendable selection of scotch and finespirits. A large collection of crystal carafes hints that wine istaken seriously in the mix.The setting is decidedly retro, with old comfortable chairs,

a minimum of art work, most of the walls are filled with win-dows looking out to the marina and the views of water andnearby Saltspring Island. The service is friendly and wellmeaning – all this makes for a welcoming and comfortableplace to dine.The menu is laid out fairly simply with lots of well practiced

local specialties, many local seafood choices and a few scat-tering of local farm-raised meats like rib-eye steaks and veni-son. The chef also has a penchant for poultry and offers localCowichan Bay Farm duck and chicken on the menu. It is how-ever, a setting that cries out for seafood, from an excellent ap-petizer of Cortez Island Mussels and clams (served with acone of fries and aioli – Belgian style) to poached wild salmonwith a creamy lemon asparagus risotto, all are executed witha capable hand in the kitchen.There is a very good wine list with many local gems, a great

place to sample the best vineyards of the Cowichan Valley.There is also an intriguing list of “GeekWines” filled with solidchoices and values from around the wine world. The restau-rant is popular with visitors and locals and a great place to goif you’re looking for good (not flashy) food and a comfortableand casual dining experience. —by Bill Jones

Halibut with wild mushroomsat the Masthead

Chef Matt Horn

1705 Cowichan Bay Road, Cowichan Bay, BC,Tel: 250-748-3714,Nightly from 5:00 pm, Closed: lunch, $30 Table de Hote (localfoods menu choice)

Cuisine TimesAmbience WithWho? PriceLocal, Classic,Unfussy

ChefMatt Horn Country, Rustic,

ComfortableNightly from5pm

Friends, Lovers,Family, Visitors

Apps $8-$13Main $20-$33

MY FARMER

MY WINERY

Pedrosa Farms(formerly the Ford Farm)AsparagusThe local climate is ideal forAsparagus and for a shortwindow in the spring, some ofthe finest asparagus anywhereis grown on this farm just acouple of kilometers from therestaurant. Farmgate sales andrestaurant trade only availableby calling 250-415-7072.

Alderlea VineyardsRoger and Nancy DosmanPremium pinot noir andunusual whites. red blendcalled Fusion

Venturi-ShulzeGiordano and Marilyn VenturiRenown for unusual whiteand sparkling blends andpremium pinot noir, Estremi


If there is a star at chic cocktail parties this summer it would be the Castelvetrano olive.Whether it’s the vivid, almost lime-green colour ormild, buttery flavour these giants have become thenibble of choice among olive lovers and haveexploded onto the foodie scene.Castelvetranos, from the town of the same name in

Sicily, are harvested young and cured in lightly saltedbrine. There are mild, with a nuanced flavor that'sboth salty and sweet, so they appeal not only to olivefans, but also to those who aren’t into the stronger,pungent types. I find the taste can be compared to afine, mild and fruity olive oil. There’s a natural flavourthat comes across. Although excellent in slow braisesand sauces, they are at their best when served sim-ply—perhaps paired with a mild Italian cheese—sotheir crisp, juicy flavour can be savoured.Castelvetranos have also become a must-have bar accessory. Connoisseurs of artisan

gin like them in their martinis because they add an olive note without overpowering the ex-pensive drink.Why would you want to go and ruin a goodmartini by putting bad olives in?As I write this, I have been steadily dipping into the little tub of Castelvetranos I picked

up from Ottavio Italian Bakery & Delicatessen in Victoria’s Oak Bay Village. If I show alittle restraint, I can save the last few for a martini before dinner tonight.

Castelvetranos Olives

Table Champetre (Country Table) Hosted on Tannadice Farm,July 26th 4pm Cocktails & Farm Tour

5-course gourmet dinner with wine pairing,$125 per person.

Tickets at Locals Restaurant, Courtenay, 250.388.6493

Guanciale is very hard to find outside of Italy. But even many Italian don’t know about thisunsmoked, air-cured Italian baconmade from pig's jowl. Guanciale is traditional in the dishSpaghetti all'amatriciana but those in the north use pancetta thinking it is the same. Butit is not. To make guanciale, pork cheek or jowl is rubbed with salt, wine, ground red orblack pepper and cured for 40 days. It is stronger than pancetta and its texture is moredelicate. Its fat has a different quality to it, melting easily into dishes. The added collagenin this cut makes sauces silky smooth.Oyama Sausage Company in Vancouver makes a version and it can be bought at their

store in the Granville Island Public Market. They suggest using it in tomato sauces, soups,stews and paella to intensify flavours. Oyama products are distributed throughout BC somaybe your favourite deli carries it.*Oh, and if you manage to get a hold of some guanciale to make Spaghetti all'amatri-

ciana use pecorino cheese (a sharp, salty sheep’s cheese) as they do in the south ratherthan parmigiano.

Guanciale

ARTISAN FOODS —by Gary Hynes

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TheEATCommunity

Ambrosia

Amusé Bistro

All Seasons B&B

Araxi

AuraWaterfront Restaurant

BlueWater Cafe

Brasserie l’Ecole

Bruce’s Kitchen

BCWine Guys

Bear Mountain Resort

Bistro28

Blue Crab Bar & Grill

Bodhi’s Artisan Bakery

Brentwood Bay Lodge

Cactus Club

Cafe Talia

Camille’s

Carrot on the Run

Chateau Victoria

CinCin

Cook St.Village Liquor

Cowichan Bay Farm

Delta Victoria

Fairburn Farm

Fernwood Inn

Feys + Hobbs Catered Arts

Fire &Water

Great Canadian Beer Festival

Hart House Restaurant

Hastings House Country Hotel

Haute Cuisine

Hester Creek EstateWinery

Hillside Liquor Store

Hotel Grand Pacific

Italian Bakery

La Piola

Listel Hotel

Locals

Marina Restaurant

Market onYates & Millstream

Marketplace Café

Markus’Wharfside

McLeans Specialty Foods

Metro Liquor

Moby’s Oyster Bar

Muffet Louisa

Paprika Bistro

Penna & Co.

Pescatores

Penny Farthing

Prima Strada

Quails’ Gate

Restaurant Matisse

R.TL

Salt Spring Island Cheese

Sea Cider

Shelter

Sidney Pier Hotel

Silk Road

Six Mile Liquor Store

Smoken Bones Cookshack

Sooke Harbour House

Spinnaker’s

Stage

Strath Ale,Wine, Spirit

Sushi Mon

Thrifty Foods

Tinhorn Creek

Tofino Vacations

Tourism Richmond

Vancouver Island University

Veneto Tapa Lounge

Village Taphouse

VQA at Mattick’s Farm

Voya Restaurant

Wesley Street

West

Wickaninnish Inn

Wild Fire Bakery

Youbou Bar & Grill

Zambri’s

Zin


Our Mission Statement“To celebrate and encourage local, fresh, seasonal and sustainable

food and drink in British Columbia.”

OUR SUPPORTING PARTNERS THE PHANTOM DINNERFor Santas Annonymous

RebeccaW

ellmam

Follow us on Twitter at www.twitter.com/eatmagazine

The EAT Magazine Culinary Arts Award

PHANTOM DINNER SERVICE AWARD

Each year sixteen of Victoria’s toprestaurants get together and holdspecial dinners to help raisefunds for the charity SantasAnnonymous. Each restauranthosts eight diner guests whohave paid $100 for their seat. Thetwist is when they purchase theirticket they don’t know which ofthe restaurants they will bedining at that evening.They find out at a special

cocktail reception held earlier onthe night of the dinners. A drawtakes place and each guest israndomly given the name of theirrestaurant. This year $8,000 wasraised for the deserving charity.As you can imagine, there’s

considerable rivally among thechefs to outdo each other incoming up with a menu that willwow the guests. This year EAT gotinvolved and sponsored themenucompetition with a small caveat.We asked competing chefs toinclude at least one local food ontheir menu. Once the chefs haddevised their menu, they gotartistic and produced their menusfor display at the Bay Center.The Culinary Arts Award judges

assembled one afternoon to pickthe winning menu based onartistic presentation, originality,degree of difficulty, scope andbest use of local ingredients.Each entry was unique and verycreative. Overall the judges feltthat The Fairmont Empress Hotelbest expressed the critiera andGold was awarded to them.

The winning menu from the Fairmont Empress Hotelcreated by Executive Chef Takashi Ito and EmpressDining Room Chef Jeffrey Brothers.

Guests attending the 2009 Phantom Dinners were asked tovote for their favourite server. We are pleased to announcethat Kevin Neilson fromVista 18 at Chateau Victoria receivedthe most votes. Here’s what guests said.“I have never been so impressed in 47 years of dining

experiences. Every last detail was executed to perfection andwas flawless. The Food & Beverage Manager (Kevin) hostedus personally, and his local wine pairings were magnificent.When we had finished the Vista 18 team furnished us withtheir business cards and personal invitations to look afterour every need should we choose to dine at the restaurant inthe future. Thanks for making our dreams come true!”

The menu, entitled ‘Treasures of the Island’, was indeed a 7-course royal tour of the Island. Each of the dishes not onlyhighlighted fine local ingredients but showed off the kitchen’sprowess.For example: A starter of side-stripe shrimp and Qualicum

Bay scallop had been layered onto an oh-so delicatemille-feuille pastry and paired with an eminently lickablesmoked SunWing tomato coulis; then, silky chicken liver patéand toothsome rillettes gently slathered a crostini baked withheritage Red Fife wheat (charcuterie at the Empress!) Andfor the main course—wild salmon filet and Queen Charlottesablefish were rolled up, stuffed with Dungeness crab andserved with wild stinging nettles and a selection of freshMadrona Farm vegetables.Dessert from Chef D’Oyen Christie was a winning trifecta

of a Butler Farm hazlenut souflé, Hilary’s Blue cheesecakeand a small scoop of Sunset Bay honey ice cream.Result? The cooking at the Empress has risen to lofty heights

and now matches its serene and opulent room. —G.H.


HONG KONG IS NO LONGER THE FOODIE CAPITAL OF THE MIDDLE KINGDOM—the Chinese dragon has recouped its gastronomic groove—but few would dispute itsenduring reputation as dim sum capital of the world. As simple as a shrimp dumpling ora handful of rice steamed in a lotus leaf, the art of the “small bite” is Hong Kong’s gastro-nomic pride, a procession of pleasures that seduces as it surprises.Sichuan-born, self-taught chef Ronald Shao of the Hong Kong’s top-rated Cuisine, Cuisine

lets no gras grow under his feet. His stellar dim sum is a deep-fried vermicelli roll that be-gins with an audible crrrrrunch and leads into the creamy richness of goose liver—yes, foiegras. That’s the way they do it in Hong Kong.Shao also stuffs his dumplings with minced pork and hairy crab roe, so they erupt in the

mouth as 21st century surf-and-turf. He infuses soft sticky rice with crisp lotus root. Hereinvents big, fat pork buns with a drizzle of abalone. And he makes his own soy sauceusing organic soybeans from Canada.Shao isn’t the only dim sum master in the neighborhood: Last December, Four Seasons

chef Yan Tak became the world’s first Chinese chef to garner three Michelin stars.At Four Seasons’ Lung King Heen, diners gawk at columnshand-threaded in blood-red silk, a ceiling shimmering with silver-leaf and green jade

napkin holders. It’s the most gorgeous restaurant on Victoria Harbour.Har gow, the simplest of shrimp dumplings, is a dim sum benchmark: Turn out a lousy

har gow and you’re toast. The har gow at Lung King Heen here may be the best in theworld, but in this company, it’s a wallflower.Tak’s Shanghai dumpling gushes with steaming broth. Spring roll stuffed with sea whelk

arrives with a whiff of five-spice. His steamed scallop and lobster dumpling is to swoon for.His signature is a gossamer creature, a deep-fried layering of scallop, shrimp paste andcrisp Asian pear, the whole soaring above the sum of its parts.I could rattle on about dim sum and the Cantonese canon all day. Its history parallels the

introduction of tea houses along the fabled Silk Road and the Chinese conversion to tea.Silk Roaders liked to snack. At one time, the Silk Road found an eastern terminus in the an-cient capital of X’ian. A few years ago, I ate lunch in a X’ian restaurant that offers 800 dimsums.Often likened to French hors d’oeuvres, Middle Eastern mezze and Spanish tapas, dim

sum bolts past the others in lightness, variety and ongoing inventiveness. “We create newkinds of dim sum every week,” says Shao. “It’s a kind of horse race among Hong Kongchefs.”Dim sum arrived in the West as the last and most refined wave of Cantonese: Bye, bye,

egg roll, hullo, Shanghai dumpling. It’s the darling of Toronto andVancouver Chinese. Herein Victoria, it has lately entrenched itself as the only province of foodiedom in which our citymight look the mainland straight in the face.My dim sum craving invariably takes me to Jade Fountain in the bowels of the Red Lion

Inn. Surprisingly, it’s a handsome room, closer to Hong Kong flash and dash than Chinatownkitsch. The trolleys roll at lunch and the dim sum menu, in a departure from tradition, isavailable in the evening. The mostly Cantonese clientele is plenty pleased: Jade’s packed.There are spring rolls for novices and chicken feet to baffle us quai lo—the venerable

Cantonese term for “foreign devil”—but also so much more: My fave dumpling comesstuffed with pork, peanuts, coriander and mushrooms, talk about a mouthful. I wouldn’tsniff at the shrimp and Chinese chive dumplings, either, either. Ever-so-delicate open-facedumplings of steamed scallop topped with crunchy tobiko nod at the textural play of sushi.But if Cantonese is about the virtue of steaming, it’s also about sin-crusted deep-fry. The

kitchen turns out lovely little shrimp fritters, but its headliner is the seafood roll, a heftyforcemeat of shrimp wrapped in tofu skin deep-fried. I haven’t found this one anywhereelse, and it’s a beaut. Just remember to push aside, as violently as possible, the accom-panying mayo, a bizarre goo recalling elephant semen.In Vic’s only other credible venue, the Pacific in the Grand Pacific, the form goes haute

with top-of-the-line ingredients and prices tomatch. BC seafood congee, rice porridge withspot prawns, halibut and salmon, isn’t strictly dim sum, but its velvety rice and juicyseafood justify the trip.A stuffing of barbecued duck kicks the spring roll up a notch, while har gow with pork

and tiger prawns proves an unfettered delight with its drizzle of shitake-and-goji berryjuice. The latter, a Tibetan fruit, is supposed to be a youth elixir. How appropriate, a gift oftime to savour the dim sum cleverness of tomorrow.

EPICURE AT LARGE — by Jeremy Ferguson

Dim SumOften likened to French hors d’oeuvres, Middle Eastern mezze and Spanish tapas,dim sum bolts past the others in lightness, variety and ongoing inventiveness

1327 Beach Drive at the Oak Bay Marinawww.marinarestaurant.com

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See the menu at www.marinarestaurant.com

NEW SUMMER MENU

By chef Matt Rissling.

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A taste of Taste, Victoria’s first annual festival of food and wine.

Summer FeteTIME WAS VICTORIA SIPPING AND SUPPING MEANTTEA AND SANDWICHES, A CARVERYand a few Brit-style pubs. In recent years, however, an influx of farmers, organic gardeners,bakers, winemakers and cheese makers has made astonishing inroads into the region’sculinary scene. Innovative Island chefs everywhere, from white linen restaurants to hum-ble holes-in-the-wall, are putting local on the plate—and in the glass—year round. If everthere was a time to celebrate the diverse bounty of Vancouver Island, it’s now.When Victoria’s annual February wine fest fizzled out a couple of years back, Kathy

McAree (Travel with Taste Tours Ltd.) twigged to the opportunity of resurrecting the idea.But why not in sync with a food fete, too?From July 16-19, McAree gathers land, sea and vineyard together in full view of Victoria’s

Inner Harbour for Taste, the first annual Victoria Festival of Food and Wine, guaranteed tofire up the taste buds for both in- and out-of-towners.Thursday night’s “Main Event” at the Crystal Garden uncorks four days chockablock with

wine-and-dine events. Guests will sip from a selection of 150 wines as Island chefs matchtheir creations to the wines. Friday morning, McAree (who conducts a regular Saturdaymorning culinary ramble of her favourite haunts) hosts a special tour as well as an IslandChefs’ Collaborative Farmers’ Market luncheon, a perfect amuse-bouche to set up thepalate for the events to come, a few of which follow.Friday evening, Emory Haines, director of operations at Hotel Grand Pacific, with help

from hotel chef Rick Choy, will spit-roast a Sloping Hills porker for Pig and Pinot on thePatio. “I grew up raising and roasting pigs and am so looking forward to the event,” saysHaines. Or go classic German, partnering several Rieslings to Sloping Hills pork under thetutelage of Mission Hill’s Ingo Grady, also at Grand Pacific Hotel just prior to Pig and Patio.Of course not everyone’s a wine geek. So over at The Inn at Laurel Point, Matt Phillips,

brewmaster for Phillips Brewery, teams up with the hotel’s executive chef Brad Horen andFinest At Sea’s Bob Fraumeni later on Friday evening in the name of craft-made suds andlocal seafood. Fraumeni jumps ship to shore with oysters, wild salmon and mussels, rightoff the boat.Saturday afternoon, chocoholics (and who isn’t one?) can learn all about the cacao bean

while indulging in chocolate with expert David Mincey at Camille’s Restaurant. Saturdayevening’s wild salmon and cider feast at Ocean Pointe Resort brings together live jazzpiano, fresh local salmon and the cider knowledge of Merridale Cidery’s Jason Child.The weekend will include a fair share of wine education. And what better advocates for

B.C. wines than writer John Schreiner and B.C. wine personality David Scholefield.Schreiner’s Friday morning seminar champions island wines. “You’d be hard-pressed tofind such crisp, high-acid, fruit-driven and distinctive wines anywhere else,” says Schreiner.Meanwhile David Scholefield lauds Ehrenfelser and Schonberger, among B.C.’s less famil-iar varietals, in Out of the Box on Friday afternoon. “We need to celebrate, not apologizefor, these unique and wonderful, aromatic wines,” says Scholefield. Gals who know their

Taste organizer Kathy McAree with Robert Fraumeni, owner of Finest At Sea

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1753 Shawnigan Mill Bay Rd250.743.3667amusebistro.com

2nd Place - Best of Vancouver Island, 20th Annual Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards

Only 35 minutes from downtown Victoria

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grapes will share their winemaking secrets and passions with Scholefield atWomen of B.C.Wine on Saturday morning.On Sunday, festival-goers can form a brunch bunch for Band, Bubbles and Bennys at

Vista 18 or a late al fresco Tuscan lunch among the flowers at Butchart’s Italian Garden. Orjump on the bus (actually a chauffeured mini-coach) and head to Bill Jones’s DeerholmeFarm in the Cowichan Valley for Surf-and Turf. Forager Bill and food journalist Don Genovawill titillate the taste buds with eight dishes such as pasture-raised stuffed chicken andDungeness crab with garlic shoots and morels.The lion’s share of Taste’s schedule takes place at The Inn at Laurel Point and Hotel Grand

Pacific. Both lodgings will offer special rates on rooms and are mere steps from a strollalong the seawall, an amble through historic James Bay or a walk in Beacon Hill Park be-tween wining and dining.

For information on these and more Taste experiences, including price, schedule, loca-tion and ticket sales, go to www.VictoriaTaste.com.

SherriKostian

Judgment in Cobble Hill —by Larry Arnold

Recently, just before lunch, at a pristine little winery nestled on the side of a hill over-looking the beautiful Cowichan Valley, a small rabble of wine aficionados gathered topass judgment on twelve pinot noirs from across the globe. There were five wines fromBurgundy (the promised land), three fromVancouver Island (the new kid on the block),two from California (don’t count em out), one from Oregon (the heir apparent) andfinally one from New Zealand (the dark horse).The judges were a mixed bunch of raconteurs and curmudgeons, some of consider-

able notoriety, but all with a smattering of talent. There were winemakers present butnone were on the panel. The wines were decanted and poured blind to remove labelbias and the tasting commenced with considerable relish! The assignment was toascertain a qualitative score for each of the twelve wines. Considering the pedigree ofthe wines in this tasting the results came as a bit of a surprise! In order of preference:

1. Ojai, Solomon Hills, Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 05$55.90

2. Venturi-Schulze Vancouver Island Pinot Noir 06$45.00

3. Maysara McMinnville Pinot Noir 05$37.61

4. Averill Creek Vancouver Island Pinot Noir 06$26.00

5. Amisfield Central Otago Pinot Noir 06$54.99

6. Salt Spring Vineyards Pinot Noir Reserve 06$31.90

7. Dom. Chevillon-Chezeaux 1er Les Bousselots Nuits-St-Georges 05

$64.31

8. Maison Champy 1er Les Santenots Volnay 05$80.32

9. Saintsbury Brown Ranch Carneros Pinot Noir 04$74.35

10. Chateau de Chamirey Mercurey 05$39.61

11. Dom du Clos Frantin 1er Les Malconsorts Vosne-Romanee 05

$134.99

12. Dom Vincent Sauvestre Close de la Platiere Pommard 05$46.60

breakingnews


LOCA

Science and business are fuelling the “functional food” trend.

Today’s health-conscious consumers arelooking to food as more than a source ofenergy—they also see its health benefitsand potential for preventing disease. Andthey have good reason. Scientific researchcontinues to reveal that specific compo-nents of foods, such as antioxidants andfatty acids, possess unique health-promot-ing qualities. Not surprisingly, these bene-ficial components are being incorporatedinto a new group of products called “func-tional foods,” designed for specific healthconcerns and to satisfy consumer demandfor foods both healthy and convenient.B.C.’s own Born-3 Eggs are a perfect ex-

ample of a “functional food.” Ordinary eggsare a completely healthy food full of vita-mins and minerals—but enhanced withOmega-3 fatty acids they become a func-tional food that may help prevent heart dis-ease. Another homegrown player in thefunctional food world is Island Farm’s newPro Plus Yogurt. Pro Plus, an all-natural,probiotic yogurt, contains two specialstrains of probiotic culture proved to en-hance both immune function and intestinalwell being. It also contains a prebiotic fibre(as does the new Cottage Cheese Plus) thathelps regulate the digestive system. WhilePro Plus is Island Farm’s first entry into thefunctional food industry, it won’t, accordingtomarketingmanager Jona DeJesus, be thelast. “It’s really the trend,” she explains,“and it’s consumer driven—there’s an in-creased awareness and focus on health.Danone really changed the scene whenthey introduced Activia and launched its adcampaign—it increased people’s aware-ness of the link between probiotics and di-gestive health.” Activia yogurt contains aspecific strain of probiotic proven to pro-

mote regularity. Since the U.S. launch of Ac-tivia, the sales of probiotic yogurts in NorthAmerica have more than doubled.Functional food is big business indeed—

the worldwide market is projected to reach109 billion U.S. by 2010 according to indus-try experts. Even beverage giant Coca-Colais focusing on the trend. It recently openeda research centre for Chinese Medicine inBeijing to “develop new and innovativebeverages that incorporate the preventa-tive and holistic properties of ChineseMed-icine.”While the trend is undeniable, not every-

one is cheering it on. Local chef MichaelWilliams, who co-authored the bookGourmet Nutrition: The Cookbook for theFit Food Lover, maintains, “I still preachlocal, seasonal and fresh. Food should beeaten in its most natural state; it’s a far bet-ter taste experience.Why put green tea ex-tract in a cereal—why not just enjoy adelicious matcha latte?” And WHICH, aU.K.-based consumer group, argues thatwhile products made with added functionalingredients like probiotics, omega-3s orplant sterols may be beneficial for certainpeople, they may also be unsuitable forothers with certain conditions. And not allfunctional foods are inherently healthy—that cereal or cookie with pomegranate oracai extract added may also contain transfats, preservatives or excessive sweeten-ers.Still, functional foods with optimal,

healthy ingredients can play a significantrole in promoting well-being and reducingthe risk of disease. You just need to read la-bels and choose wisely.

GOOD FOR YOU — by Pam Durkin

Food as Medicine

work if you csound downrHe’s a farm

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Relax in the casual comfort of Haro’s with live Jazz every Monday from 6-9pm. Enjoy our great selection of tapas and feature wines at $5 above cost.

Monday’s Jeans & Jazz

Functional FoodDairy products with probiotics

Beverages, cereals and bars with greentea extract

Eggs, cereals, breads, milk withomega-3s

Margarines and baked goods with plantsterols

Cereal, bars and cookies with berryextracts (acai, blueberry, etc)

Functional BenefitImproves digestive health and immunity

Reduces the risk for cancer,Alzheimer’s, osteoporosis and gumdisease. Provides energy boost.

Omega-3s may reduce coronary disease,ease arthritis and improve cognitivefunction

Plant sterols help lower cholesterol

Berry extracts contain potent antioxi-dants that help prevent cancer,improvememory, stabilize blood sugar andpromote heart health.

Magazine eby night anweekends,Metchosinwheat, sheand holly faTom Henrypracticeswhat hepreaches.

Gary

Hynes


LOCAL HEROS — by Katie Zdybel

d” trend.

launch of Ac-urts in Northled.ess indeed—cted to reaching to indus-nt Coca-Colaently openedMedicine ind innovativehe preventa-ChineseMed-

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th optimal,a significantand reducinged to read la-

e Tom Henry“Everything I said is bullshit” is TomHenry’s final remark of our interview.This modest dismissal of his pearls ofwisdom galvanize his addition to EAT’s“local heroes” list. Make no mistake,Henry has pulled off some heroic deedsfor Vancouver Island’s local food scene,but he’d be the last to gloat about it (sowe’ll do that for him).Duncan-born and raised, Henry

started out as a staff writer at Victoria’sMonday Magazine, then penned a hand-ful of books (mostly about the WestCoast lifestyle) before becoming co-cre-ator and editor of Small Farm Canada. InHenry’s words, it’s a how-to magazinethat leads farmers through the finickybusiness of building chicken coops,sheering sheep and plotting crops. Butit thickens the plot with a few thinkpieces on, say, the re-evaluation of foodmiles or the politics of climate change.Add to this Henry’s opening editorialpieces, which lean toward the rambling,armchair philosopher vernacular (withmore than a grain or two of true wis-dom), and you have a noble little publi-cation that farmers I know from NovaScotia to Ontario refer to regularly. Nice

work if you can get it, but throw in one more credential and here’s where Henry’s effortssound downright, well, heroic; he’s also a farmer.He’s a farmer who grows and supplies wheat toWildfire Bakery in Victoria, True Grain in

Cowichan Bay, plus a couple of independent bakeries in Vancouver. He’s a farmer whoraises the extraordinarily flavourful lamb you taste in The Pink Bicycle’s burgers or pick upat local butchers. And if you bought holly at Christmas from Thrifty Foods, chances are itcame from Henry’s farm. In other words, not only does Henry write about building a localfood system, he’s doing it. So what does this guy, who grows the food, connects with theconsumer, and then writes about the process have to say about Vancouver Island’s foodsystem?“The local food movement [on Vancouver Island] is like the Reformation,” Henry says.

“Conventional agriculture is like the Catholic Church collapsing. Farmland is sitting fallowbecause people are leaving the old farms.” The old system has broken down, but Henrysees new ingenuity rushing in to fill the void. “There’s an ever-increasing number of vine-yards on the island, small pig operations are popping up, new products likemead are beingmade, there are more berry patches, more agritourism. It’s a whole new kind of agricul-ture.” And, Henry tells me, meeting the new kind of farmers is a new kind of consumer.“Consumers are starting to ask tougher questions,” he says. They want to know how beefwas raised, what practices a vintner uses on her grapes, how the chickens that made theireggs live.So what needs to be improved if Vancouver Island is to have a strong local food system?

“We’re doing well on the producer and consumer ends, but in themiddle the infrastructureis almost non-existent. There are a lot of middlemen—sheep shearers, veterinarians,heavy-duty farm mechanics, the people who run abattoirs—that have disappeared. Theyare the silent partners and there is a real urgency for them. A 55-year-old sheep produceron Salt Spring Island sells his flock and there’s no one there to take it on and that knowl-edge is lost. That’s how systems collapse.”

Small Farm Canada addresses some of these issues, and TomHenry, who speaks at foodsecurity conventions, spreads the word in more ways than one. But at the end of the day(and the beginning and somewhere in the middle), it is probably his work on the farm thatmakes themost headway. In a recent editorial, he wrote, “In the curious bi-polar world I livein—magazine editor by day, small farmer by evenings and weekends—themagazine tendsto benefit from the farm more than the other way around.” It’s one thing to preach aboutit, quite another to practice it. Living his message to produce and support locally, to makeconnections between the producer and the consumer, is what makes TomHenry a real foodhero. www.smallfarmcanada.ca

fitd immunity

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esterol

nt antioxi-er,improvear and

Magazine editor by day, farmerby night andweekends,Metchosinwheat, sheepand holly farmerTom Henrypracticeswhat hepreaches.

Gary

Hynes

728 Humboldt Street in the Victoria Marriott Tel: (250) 480-3828

For a limited time.

tapas + wine nights

�is summer, Executive Chef Dave Roger is proud to present a new tantalizing Tapas menu. Pair this with our specially priced $20 bottles of wine from our exclusive feature sheet available on �ursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

Visit www.marriottvictoria.com/�rewater to view menus.

* Special Tapas menu available daily, $20 bottles of select wine features are available on �ursdays, Fridays and Saturdays from 5pm to 10pm, July 1 – August 31, 2009 only. Minimum purchase of one Tapas order per person required in order to take advantage of the specially priced wine. Not valid with any other o�er. Promotion subject to end without notice.

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iola3189 Quadra St. Next to the Italian Bakery

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A cooking epiphany is a blinding moment of culinary clarity—a leap ofunderstanding—somethingthat changes you forever. Tellus about your food epiphany.When, what and where?

Laurie Munn Cafe Brio 250.383.0009I don't think that I have ever had an epiphany but if I was to, I would hope the blindinglight would show me a career in which I don't worry every day about the restaurant. Howeveras far as culinary moments go, I can remember being a young cook working in Vancouver whenMichel Bras' Essential Cuisine came out. The work in the book was humbling yet inspiring. It al-ways motivates me to redouble my efforts in the kitchen to try and achieve something goodIan Dufton Canoe Brewpub, Marina and Restaurant 250.361.1940When I was six years old, traveling with my foodie parents, we went to Le Manoir AuxQuat’Saisons. After dinner, Raymond Blanc came out to the dining room to see the three youngchildren behaving so well and and asked us if we liked his cooking. I looked up and told him“No, I thinkmymom’s cooking is better”. Mymother is the real influence for me. Of course it did-n’t hurt my decision to become a chef when she told me I had to get a job after dropping out ofuniversity.Alberto Pozzolo Italian Bakery 250.388.4557I was on a cycling tour in Europe and was starved after riding all day. I tried to make the staplefood for a born Italian, Pasta al Pomodoro. I had cooked for myself a little bit but when one’smother’s cooking is so good, one does not pay toomuch attention to the details. Here I was hun-gry and eventually disappointed that the meal that I had tasted in my mind was so disappoint-ing on my palate. My epiphany came at that moment with this ‘simple’ dish. I learned to payattention to all the details and most of all watch my mamma very attentivelyBen Peterson Heron Rock Bistro 250.383.1545My first real cooking job was at a homey brewpub that made all their product from scratch. Itshared a huge prep kitchen with its sophisticated sister restaurant upstairs. Previously I hadbeen drawn to less virtuous operations specializing in all kinds of one-eyebrow-raising, cost-saving schemes and standing there shoulder-to-shoulder with seasoned chefs was a unique ex-perience. I observed and questioned them as they dressed quail and stirred risotto while I wasfrying tortillas and grating cheese!PeterWhatmough Brentwoodbay Lodge and Spa 250.544.2079I was 18 years old in France and it was my first experience with foie gras. There is an old saying:A truly wise man accepts and understands that he knows very little and has a lot to learn. I havehung on to that feeling and probably will for the rest of my life. It keepsme striving to be the best.Jonathan Frazier Atlas Café 250.338.9838When I was cooking on an expedition boat in the Queen Charlottes I had to come up with some-thing special for dinner using bull kelp that the guests had harvested. I’m not sure where the ideacame from, I wrapped halibut in bull kelp fronds with bull kelp chutney. I don’t think I’ve ever hadsuch rave reviews from a meal.Aaron Rail Avenue Bistro 250.890.9200Seeing the reactions of people who truly appreciate and enjoy my food fuels my creativity andleads to some of mymost inspired creations. I heard a customer rave about a dish I made a cou-ple of months ago and it remindedme that it’s not just about putting food on the table, it’s aboutfeeding the senses.Mara Jernigan Fairburn Farm 250.746.4637My food epiphany was on my 19th birthday. I was working for the Eaton family as summer help.I noticed the cooks always got the gratitude but no one ever gushed about how clean their bath-room was. I was helping Mrs. Jurch shuck fresh peas from the garden. "What is it like to be acook?" I asked. "Be a cook!" she told me, “While you may not get rich you will enjoy the finerthings in life even better then those who are rich because you will learn to understand and ap-preciate them". That fall I enrolled in George Brown College. That was 26 years ago and I haven'tlooked back since!Robert Belcham Fuel 604.288.7905In 2003 I spent time at my friend Grant Achatz’s restaurant Trio. I had worked with Grant whileat the French Laundry and was interested in the direction he was taking with his menu. This waswhen molecular gastronomy was a four-letter-word. My epiphany came while standing in hiskitchen and seeing the encapsulation technique. It opened up a cascade of questions. It was thesimple act of not accepting what had come before as fact. Question everything.Cory Pelan La Piola 250.388.4517I was about 10 years old and I complained about the lunch. I don’t remember what it consistedof but I’m sure it was the obligatory sandwich and the ever present “Wagon Wheel”. I was toldin no uncertain terms that if I didn’t like what they made for me then I would now be making myown lunch. The epiphany occurred during the first week of making, or more correctly, crafting myown lunches. I began walking home from school and spending the lunch hour creating what Ithought were culinarymasterpieces based on leftovers, my Dad’s spice rack and amassive condi-ment collection in the fridge. I was forced to create good tasting food onmy own and realized im-mediately that I loved doing it. I do miss myWagonWheels though.

FOOD

SumEpiphany Fruits and

CHEF’S TALK — by Ceara Lornie

1. Wash and(or combo) p(Deseeding is2. Cut tomaote3. Dice and mfrom Salmon Atbsp. extra vichiffonaded baroll leaves intowith a sharp k

THIS SIMPLTINY TOMA

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“THERE IS MORE SIMPLICITY IN THE MAN WHO EATS CAVIAR ON IMPULSE THAN IN THEmanwho eats grape-nuts on principle,” wrote G.K. Chesterton in an essay entitled On San-dals and Simplicity. I echo Chesterton’s opinion when it comes to steak tartare and All-Bran. When the whim strikes, lead this woman to the best quality sirloin in the hands of atrusty butcher. Massage that raw beef with a free-range egg yolk, chopped Italian parsley,chives, capers, good grainy sea salt and coarse black pepper. Shape it into a little mound.Garnish with a few micro greens tossed in a bit of olive oil and lemon juice, toastedbaguette on the side. That's tartare heaven.Steak tartare owes its name to the 13th century Tartar Hordes who are reputed to have

placed slices of horsemeat beneath their saddles. Sweaty leather and bumpy travels mar-inated and tenderized the meat. The Tartars would chop the raw meat, add caper berriesand spices and chow down.Little seems to have been written about how this rough-and-tough horsemeat dish

evolved into beef tartare and eventually became haute cuisine among the fine dining roomsof New York during the early 1900s. It remained a popular menu item for 50 years.With the rise of vegetarianism in the 1960s, however, consuming rawmeat began to lose

ground. The outbreak of Mad Cow disease in the 1980s doomed steak tartare, and we sawsalmon and tuna tartare take its place. But with folks hankering for unfussy foods and tak-ing more care about where their meat comes from, steak tartare is now enjoying a bit of acomeback.Is it possible to capture the same freshness and texture of a meat tartare with veggies?

Tartares concocted entirely of vegetables or fruit are currently popular and owe their burstof flavour to pristine ingredients. As with their beefy predecessor, the elements are broughttogether with a sharp blade, piquant seasonings and tangy vinaigrette.What a superb way to celebrate B.C.’s organic bounty—ripe heirloom tomatoes, break-

fast radishes, purple carrots, the greenest of cukes, yellow and orange peppers, baby zuc-chini, bright berries, new nugget potatoes and herbs at their peak. And though tartaremeans raw when it comes to meat, new potatoes, squash, leeks and others need blanch-ing or steaming before going under the knife.

Tartares & Carpaccios with Friends by Marie-Victoire Garcia (Hachette Illustrated UK,2004; try www.abebooks.com/Canada or www.amazon.ca) is an inexpensive primer onprepping tartares. Garcia advises on refrigeration and health concerns right at the outset.As for the recipes, I experimented with three vegetable/fruit tartares. Cucumber and dill onartichoke hearts (Belgian endive “boats” subbing for the artichokes) were superb. Garciafailed to mention, though, that very firm cheese is needed for the tomato and feta tartare.(Creamy feta simply dissolves into the tomato’s juice.). Instead of the called-for basil andlemon juice, coriander leaves and white balsamic vinegar accented a strawberry tartare.I tossed tiny nugget potatoes, kalamata olives, green onions, sweet/hot banana peppers,yogurt, lemon and oregano. (My meat-and-spud spouse went gaga over that one.)Radishes, red onion, potatoes (again) with fresh herbs and olive oil went splendidly withgrilled lamb chops. Mini sweet peppers, cukes, tomatoes and Fraser Valley’s Farmsteadgoat’s milk cheese needed little more than a dash of olive oil and some crusty bread as ac-companiment. Each tartare took on a zip and a zing that was quite apart from a chunkiersalad using the same elements.This summer, get fresh with a fruit or veggie tartare. Don’t forget that sip of chilled dry

rose or zesty dry white wine along with it. And if the mood should strike, don’t be afraid totry steak tartare. It won’t kill you.

Bistrot Pastis (2153 W. 4th Ave., Vancouver, 604-731-5020) serves steak tartare withcornichons and twice-cooked frites. It’s the best in town.


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FOOD MATTERS — by Julie Pegg

Summer TartaresFruits and veggies take on a meaty issue

1. Wash and deseed one pound red or yellow(or combo) pear, grape, or cherry tomatoes.(Deseeding is optional - I don't bother.)2. Cut tomaotes in half3. Dice and mix 8 oz. fine quality firm feta (Gortsfrom Salmon Arm is a good local choice) with onetbsp. extra virgin olive oil and a handful ofchiffonaded basil leaves. (To chiffonade stack androll leaves into a tight bundle and slice into stripswith a sharp knife.)

4. Pour cheese mixture over tomatoes and blendgently.5. Divide the mixture among four ramekins. Dec-orate with a few whole basil leaves.6. Salt dish to taste with coarse sea salt. Go spar-ingly if feta is very salty.7. Mozzarella or ricotta can sub in for feta.Tender tarragon leaves make a nice change frombasil.

THIS SIMPLE TOMATO/FETA/BASIL TARTARE CELEBRATES SUMMER’S SWEETEST,TINY TOMATOES AND GARDEN BASIL


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The EdGe | 6688 Sooke Rd. | 778.425.3343 | www.edgerestaurant.ca

“So, Edward, if you’re the chef, what is Gemma’s title?”“We’re both owners. I am not “Chef.” Can we go with that?”Umm. Sure, yeah, I guess. Except that he is Edward Tuson, whowas Sooke Harbour House’s

executive chef for twelve years. Edward Tuson, celebrated for his handmade charcuterie andsausages as well as for his inventive-obsessive talent and drive for delicious and meticu-lously crafted local cuisine.Edward Tuson and longtime sweetheart Gemma Claridge opened The Edge Restaurant in

Sookemid-May. Gemma, prolific events and sales coordinator, actor and quintessential host-ess with the mostess, describes how it came to be, “It was the right place, right time, one ofthose ‘just worked’ things,” she beams and sets downmy lunch before greeting the onslaughtof curious guests with her matchless grace and warmth.The soup of the day is curried cauliflower soup with green olives and housemade pulled

pork. Themild curry, gentle olive and rich pork were an unlikely but tasty and titillating three-some.Next, I tried the housemade pork sausage with smoked paprika, garlic, onion, cumin, co-

riander seed, salt and pepper with sautéed peppers, mushrooms, onions and Dijon mayo ina crusty roll with hand-cut fries. I had the best intentions of packing half of the sausage homefor my man, but the rich beauty of it siren-sang me.“It’s great,” responds Edward when asked how is he finding co-owning his own restaurant

so far. Should have done this a long time ago? “No, now I have a reputation, which is goingto help the restaurant—this is good.”Edge Restaurant is located on Sooke Road, the main drag, and it used to be a fish and

chips shop.When asked why this large step away from the international high-end restaurantexperience, Tuson replies, “I serve what I eat. That is what it is. I want to cater to the peoplewho I live near. We have homey, yummy food that people can relate to.”I forwent desserts, which included pear spring rolls with whipped cream cheese and apple

syrup and the lemon tartlette withmaple cream, house-made ice creamand caramel sauce. There were, how-ever, couples to my left and rightfighting over the last shared bites ofeach.Instead, I went for another main:

the Kitchen Sink Bowl. Housemadechicken sausage with herbes deProvence, local seafood, greens andcilantro in a sweet and sour Asianbroth that came on sweet then mel-lowed to leave plenty of room to fullyappreciate the fresh local seafoodand succulent sausage.The restaurant also boasts a well-

researched kid menu that includesmac and cheese, egg-white-dippedpanko-crusted fish and chips andgrilled cheese. Housemade ice creamand chocolate sprinkles courtesy ofKealyn, Gemma Claridge’s five-year-old daughter.Edge (Ed for Edward, Ge for

Gemma) is open, roomy and Crayolacolourful. The kitchen staff sport T-shirts. The atmosphere is relaxed,but there is an undercurrent of gen-erous pride that whispers, “This isgoing to be good.” Lunches are allunder $13 and the dinner menu,which includes braised pork shankwith potato bacon jus and thyme oiland cornflake-crusted salmon withvegetable fried rice and housemadeChinese sausage with mains allunder $23. The Edge Restaurant’sethos is clear; everyone is genuinely

welcome and the food is fantastic.The next time I go for lunch I am trying the creamy linguine with braised lamb, peas, mush-

rooms, chives and parmesan and the Caesar salad with housemade bacon. Get ye to Sooketo check it out. Tuesday-Saturday 11:30-3:00 p.m. for lunch and 5:30-9:00 p.m. for dinner. —by Gillie Easdon

Devour | 762 Broughton St., Victoria | 250.590.3231

Half the fun of visiting Victoria is tracking down the blink-and-you’ll-miss-’em eateriesabout town serving very good “fast slow food”: whipping into PIG’s kiosk for pulled pork ona bun for five bucks, all in; popping by Choux-Choux Charcuterie for the day’s sandwich anda brief chat with fellow Muskoka-ite Luke Young; or chowing down on one of Hernandez’made-from-scratch tacos. On a friend’s recommendation, I also checked out Devour, a weecafé on Broughton, catty-corner from the Royal Theatre.What a terrific (if sparsely outfitted) little spot. A dozen or so meeting-room curved-back

chairs crowd around four square cafeteria tables, perfect for pushing together should a groupof seven want to convene. A couple of two-tush benches along one wall afford a view of whitedinner plates, a blue creuset and a red tagine perched on handmade shelves. Thyme, oreganoand sage thrive in galvanized pots along the front window.Order off the blackboard or printed menu from the butcher-block cash counter. I went for

the slow-roasted lamb on grilled flatbread, requesting an add-on of half Israeli couscoussalad/half greens. The meat, cooked until fork tender, was sliced atop bubbly, crisp house-made flatbread. (I think it was naan.) A dollop of tangy raita topped the lot. Fresh mint en-livened the tiny pasta pearls. Saanich Organics was responsible for the micro greens. (Mostof Devour’s products are locally sourced.) A tumbler of lemon-enhanced water from the Kool-Aid pitchers on the sideboard was drink enough.

RESTAURANT REPORTER: VICTORIA

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While perusing a couple of the cookbooks scattered about the shelves, I inhaled thehomey smells from a pork and duck tourtiere just out of the oven. (A whole tourtiere isavailable for takeaway, feeds eight to 10 and includes tomato chutney.) Duck and pork alsoperformed a confit-and-terrine duet on French baguette.Other menu choices consisted of six-grain rice and roasted chicken with fresh asparagus

as well as a sandwich consisting of thick slabs of whole grain bread stuffed with caponata,roasted vegetable and goat cheese. Nothing clocked in over ten bucks.A stern wind whipped upwhile I was there, threatening to cancel my late-afternoon flight.

The genuinely concerned server/cashier quickly bagged the rest of my food. Good thing,too. I, and the rest of my lunch-on-the-run, hastened to the terminal just in time for me todown the remains of lamb and couscous in view of the check-in crew and catch an earlierplane.After that, I think half the Harbour Air staff headed to Devour for lunch. – by Julie Pegg

Veneto | 1450 Douglas | 250.383.7310

Veneto’s got style. And no, I am not talking Italy, but the Rialto Hotel in Victoria, the siteof a serious and successful makeover.Amble up to the gorgeousmarble bar and slide into a high backed stool. Bartenders Josh

and Holly will muddle you up a Sazerac, Pisco Sour or pour you a flight of three 2 oz winesfor $10. With floor to ceiling windows, 20 ft ceilings and generous use of wood, consciouslighting, space and perpendicular lines in design, veneto is classy and hip (and yes, we aretalking about Victoria.)This new “urban lounge” is not only a funky and refreshing much needed addition to the

evening options in Victoria, but the approach and delivery of themenu and professional andsincere service is irresistible.The Tapa Style Entrées (prepared three ways) are listed by protein; beef, tuna, lamb,

chicken, crab and shrimp. I went for the crab. The blue crab spring roll with fresh cilantroand smoked chipotle dressing was fresh, satisfying, and void of filler ingredients. The Cre-ole crab cake with roasted corn salsa and chipotle tartar sauce was lovely. But it was thecrab and ricotta stuffed pasta shell baked with Creole parmesan gratin that gaveme pausewith pleasure. It was sumptuous and well balanced and delicious. They arrived on threesquare white plated embedded in a beautiful narrow wooden platter. I often translate“tapa” as pretty and pretty small. This three-part tapa is the perfect light meal and at $14,I am keen to sample the lamb entrée soon, with the jumbo shrimp and goat cheese stuffedlamb chop with cranberry Texas red wine sauce. Tod Bosence, veneto’s chef has really donea beautiful job.Veneto is open Monday-Sunday 4pm-1am (Yes, Sundays and Mondays!)— by Gillie Easdon

www.silkroadtea.com 1624 Government St. Victoria Chinatown

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left: The tiny but clever Devour interiorright: Pork skewered w/ romanesco sauce and blackthai rice salad


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Victoria Sidney1437 Store Street 250-382-3201

2389 Beacon Avenue 250-656-0011 www.muffetandlouisa.com

Turn your farmers’ market produce into heavenly creations for your table

with simple, easy-to-use tools from Kuhn Rikon.

Farmers’ Market Favourites

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The Budget GourmetElizabeth Smyth uncovers super dealsaround the cityLucy’s in the Square | 1296 Gladstone Ave. | 778.430.5829

The word is getting out in the Fernwood neighbourhood, but it’s time for other people toknow about Jeff and Micki Keenliside’s brand spanking new Lucy’s in the Square, acrossfrom the Belfry. Get in there fast – I am convinced this restaurant will soon be as famedand hard to get into as Brasserie l’Ecole, because it is exquisite, accessible, sexy, French-inspired, and family-welcoming all at the same time. Sexy roasted beet salad has smokein its toasted hazelnuts, spice in the greens, and sweetness in the chevre and the sherryvinaigrette. Saltspring Islandmussels are in a lusty sauce of Phillips ale, garlic, butter, andfresh herbs, and the Cheese and Charcuterie plate is refined and elegant, with its OyamaBerkshire saucisson, surface-ripened Cabriole cheese fromQuebec, chicken liver pate, andpear butter with melting hints of brown sugar and apple cider. And chicken confit is silken,aromatic, and obsession-worthy, even before considering its delicious companions of gar-lic-braised greens, herb-roasted baby potatoes, and tomato-onionmarmalade. Being satedwith these sensual foods makes dessert seem impossible – almost. A rice pudding, so de-ceptively pedestrian-sounding, provides a final experience of cream and velvet to a richand soothing meal. At dinner the entrees range from $14 to $18, and salads and appetiz-ers from $7 to $12. The lunch menu mains range from $9 to $14, and I can confidently ex-trapolate that these will also provide immense value for fair prices. As a final Europeantouch, Lucy’s in the Square has a communal table with six chairs, so a single or a pair canget in quickly to enjoy the brasserie-style food.

The Urban Cup Café | 3690 Shelbourne Street | 250.477.7741I love places that feel like a secret. They’re tucked away, known only to a neighbourhood,or so plain-looking on the exterior that they don’t invite further exploration. Urban Cup onShelbourne Street at Cedar Hill Cross Road is such a place. I had driven by several times aweek without stepping in until a foodie tipsternudgedme to go. And now I love it. It’s a modestcafé, but a café that takes care, prepares all itsown foods, and boasts an owner who used to bea head chef at Pescatore’s. Owners Jeff andCindy Smith live walking distance from theUrban Cup, and they have created this friendlynook for the neighbours to have a peacefulmeeting place with food and baked goods you’dexpect somewhere more high end. The ChickenPanini with Onion Jam for $7.25 is one such ex-ample. The chicken is roasted just a few feetaway in the spacious kitchen, and is tucked into

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Cheese and charcuterie plate:Avonlea white cheddar, OyamaBerkshire Saucisson, Pear butter,Olive Oil crostini, chicken liver pate.

Chicken Cobb Sandwich – bacon, avocado,blue cheese mayo, spinach, tomato

Ramsay


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waterfront restaurant + patio

680 MONTREAL STREET VICTORIA BC CANADA V8V 1Z8 T 250.414.6739 TF 1.800.663.7667 WWW.AURARESTAURANT.CA

Spring has Sprung3 courses for $33

Floor-to-ceiling views of Victoria’s sparkling Inner Harbour West Coast Pacific Rim-inspired cuisine Sunday brunch

Large waterfront patio Gold medal chefs

an evenly toasted golden panini with translucent slices of Granny Smith apple and a de-lectable onion jam – caramelized red onions sautéedwith bay leaf and thyme, and deglazedwith red wine vinegar and honey. (Secret note to owners – please start bottling and sellingthe onion jam, pleeeease.)With somany chickens roasting every day, it follows that UrbanCup makes its own soup stocks, which appear as bases in the roasted chicken with cornchowder soup and the creamiest split pea soup I’ve had. Served with a cheese and herbscone, this is priced at $2.95 for a small bowl, and $4.50 for a large one. And speaking ofbaked goods, do not leave without having a tender, multi-spiralled cinnamon bun for $2.95,or one of the creative muffins – the peach and raspberry muffin is cakey, fruity, and moist.The same kind of care is taken with the coffee and tea. The former is local and highly re-garded Fernwood Coffee Company brand, and the tea is Mighty Leaf brand; I now under-stand what chamomile is supposed to taste like. Urban Cup provides quality andcommunity in what looks like little more than a strip mall – be prepared for a surprise.

Phyllo’s Deli and Catering | #219-3749 Shelbourne St. | 250.381.4800Almost completely hidden from the street is anotherneighbourhood favourite, Phyllo’s Deli and Catering,again at Shelbourne and Cedar Hill Cross Road, be-hind the PetroCan. Owner Ramsay has been in thefood business for 30 years, moving from Spain toMontreal to Vancouver before opening up thisMediterranean deli. There is an eating counter and acouple of tables, but mostly this is a take-out jointwith filling, hearty food. EAT readers always love anexotic ingredient, so be sure to try the moist chickenthighs baked with pomegranate molasses and Tus-can herbs. Another entrée that came as a pleasantsurprise was the shepherd’s pie; it’s Balkan style,which is quite different from the British style withground beef. Instead, it’s a very tasty pork stew, com-plete with green and red peppers, mushrooms, car-rots, celery, and lots of onions, all topped withmashed potatoes. Dishes from the entrée menu are$9.25, served with potatoes, or rice, or salad. The

deli counter boasts dolmades, spanakopita, and cabbage rolls, the latter of which Ramsayassured me fit into the Mediterranean theme as they’re a Balkan dish. All of these dishesare good value because they’re fat and filling. The dolmades sparkle with lemon flavor; thespanakopita are earthy and dense; and the vegetarian cabbage rolls get substance fromthe toothsome lentils mixed in with the rice. Crème caramel for dessert at the cost of $3.50fits into the overall theme of dishes at Phyllo’s - big and affordable.

deals

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Coastal Kitchen Café | Parkinson Rd., Port Renfrew | 250.647.5533Winding along the narrowing road to Port Renfrew, musing about tide pools, mystic mossand bears, I realize I am hungry. “Damn.” I kick myself for not picking up something along theway. What was I possibly going to find in Port Renfrew?I am so wrong sometimes.My sweetheart and I pull up to the first place we see, Coastal Kitchen Café. The parking lot

is packed. A couple of young kids sit at the wooden stools outside the rustic log building.The licensed (lovely!) Coastal Kitchen Café is hopping. We hang out on a sofa, flipping

through a few books and games and checking out the décor, which includes foosball, a criband myriad fishing relics from the early 1900s, including a colossal salmon boiler net.“TheWest Coast trail stretches from Bamfield to Port Renfrew. I hiked the trail one day and

never went back,” jokes chef/owner Jessica Hicks, who was born and raised in Bamfield. Theoriginal Coastal Kitchen Café opened in 2001, but it burned down later that year in a fire thatdestroyed part of the original Port Renfrew Hotel.Luckily for Port Renfrew, Jessica Hicks stayed, slicing and dicing with her baby at her hip.

The substantial menu is highlighted by a blackberry vinaigrette with locally sourced berriesand a delicious mess of local seafood. Popular items are the fish and chips, Sooke clams,the halibut burger with a housemade black bean salsa and the thin crust pizza with smokedsalmon, pesto and garlic tiger prawns.We try the sautéed scallops with bacon and white wine as well as the calamari. The scal-

lops are fresh and tender and the bacon doesn’t overpower the flavours but works well to bal-ance the dish. The calamari is hand-cut that day and not too heavy on the batter nor overfried.Beautiful.Coastal Kitchen Café has an upbeat, inclusive atmosphere. Jessica Hicks prides herself on

it being “really welcoming for family, but we also have a bit of a pub atmosphere as well.”Open seven days a week, 7 a.m.-11 p.m., with live music on Saturdays, Coastal Kitchen

Café is a must if you are heading out for a day trip to Port Renfrew and the area. Or if you areheading out for the night, check out Soule Creek Lodge as well. — Gillie Easdon

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A Little Fishy

B.C.’s smaller fishes are tastier, healthier and more plentiful thantheir larger and threatened cousins. Thenwhy aren’t we eating them?

By Karen Platt

I f you’ve ever tasted what Blue Water Café’s Frank Pabst or Vista 18 chefGarrett Schack do to a sardine, you might wonder how it’s possible that,despite the abundance of these critters in our Pacific waters, you can’t

find them at the fish counter. You won’t easily find Pacific herring, smelts ormackerel either. These fish are cheap, relatively plentiful, healthy—and pri-marily being shipped overseas or used for bait, fish food or oil. There’s some-thing a little, well, fishy about that.Let’s face it, we British Columbians aren’t known for our tendencies toward

tiny. From our huge mountain ranges and diminishing swaths of old-growthforests, to our seemingly endless wild shorelines, we think BIG. And, as withmost things, when we think of the fish we want for dinner, we gravitate towardthe big guys, even if, as many old Atlantic fishermen will tell you, they are dis-tinctly less tasty than their smaller cousins. Real fish, they will insist, taste like,well, fish. Many turn their noses up at B.C. staples such as halibut or ling cod.These pros will tell you that next to the humble mackerel or sardine, big fish re-ally don’t—or certainly shouldn’t—have much taste of their own. And they’re

right. A halibut is like a blank canvas; its flavour is really delivered by a paletteof herbs or sauces. It’s not that it’s bad; it’s just that on its own, it’s rather dull.But the smaller pelagic species—those fish that spend most of their lives

swimming in the water column rather than resting on the bottom—are usuallyabundant and, when perfectly fresh, wonderfully flavourful in and of them-selves. In fact, most cultures that have a relationship with the sea also have along history of edible delicacies celebrating these fish. The first time you popa sardine—freshly caught, salted and slightly blackened from the barbie—intoyour mouth, you’ll knowwhy. The experience is easily found in many Europeancoastal countries but is virtually non-existent here in B.C. As I was to discover,these fish can bemade available to a determined chef, but they are not so easyto find for the home cook.I became interested in these smaller species when, last summer, I stood in the

Lund General Store marvelling at a stack of anchovies, frozen, packaged andready for … bait. My husband’s attempts to catch anything from the deck of ourboat for over a week had been fruitless and I was craving fresh fish. I had also

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just finished reading Taras Grescoe’s Bottomfeeder, a compelling examination of the state ofthe world’s fisheries. Suddenly, those anchovies struck a chord. I pondered the seeminglyempty ocean as Chris reminisced about childhood cruises with the family, when his Dadwould snag a salmon (or two or three) within minutes of dropping his line into the water. Inour last three summers sailing these waters, we have caught exactly nothing. I didn’t needstatistics to tell me I needed to rethink the fish I ate.It struck me as ironic that although the big fish had all but disappeared, there were others

that were cheap, plentiful, good for us—and considered by much of the world as both sta-ple and delicacy. But wewere using themmerely to catch other larger species or worse, grind-ing them into meal to supply fish farms. Where were these fish and others likethem—sardines, smelts, mackerel, herring—on our menus? These pelagic creatures, rich inoil, easy to prepare and truly delicious, are so disregarded in our culture they are condemnedto becoming pellets. Our experience of sardines for human consumption is limited to thatsmall flat tin that has sat unused in the pantry for years. No wonder we turn up our noses.And yet, as our big fish become increasingly scarce and exceedingly expensive, we are left

with a choice: go small or go home. Yes, these fish are the staple diet for larger fish, mam-mals and birds, and some would argue that our feeding on them would ultimately result inthe same impact on those species. But they are also prolific breeders, currently abundantand, in the case of sardines, fairly well-managed. And because they are fished primarily withpurse seines, catching them has minimal environmental impact and bycatch (other speciescaught other than the ones being fished for). They are considered a “best choice” by Ocean-Wise, SeaChoice and other environmental groups.“If we just varied our diet a small bit and stayed away from the big species, we’d be doing

our oceans a big favour,” Grescoe told me.Some of our local chefs have taken up the challenge. Frank Pabst, executive chef at Blue

Water Café in Vancouver, and Garrett Schack of Victoria’s Vista 18 are two of these pioneers.Pabst runs an annual festival of “Unsung Heroes,” showcasing small, overlooked speciessuch as urchin, mackerel and gooseneck barnacles, as well as sardines. “It is a responsibil-ity of a chef to make people aware that these products aren’t as ‘offending’ as some mightthink,” says Pabst. “We create complementary flavours that marry well with the fish. Peopleare surprised how good they are. Our response to the festival increases every year.”Last spring, in hopes of showcasing some of Vancouver Island’s lesser-known species,

Schack contacted Julie Bell of Seaside Marketing, a supplier of sustainable fish and seafoodbased in Steveston. Bell had never delivered to the Island, despite the fact that the biggestsardine catches are actually off Port Alberni and the northern Island shores. “There simplyhadn’t been enough demand,” she told me. A determined Schack pulled together a group ofchefs from Zambri’s, Brasserie L’Ecole, Camille’s and Niche tomaximize an order andminimizeshipping costs. Bell couriered 250 pounds of fresh sardines to them directly from Port Hardy.“I used the fish as features on our daily fresh sheet and they sold really well,” said Schack.

“And for Feast of Fields, we smoked the sardines and served them hot off the barbecue withfresh corn and heirloom tomato salsa. People were blown away.” He hopes to order morethis year. Bell says the demand for these fish is increasing, but it’s still not enough to ensurea regular supply to Vancouver Island. Which means, until consumers begin asking for them,they will be hard to find.Unwittingly calling my bluff at the unavailability of little fish in Victoria, friends recently

served us a simple Japanese meal. As Brian cranked up the flame under the wok, Hatsumidipped smelts into flour, egg and panko and tossed them into the not-quite boiling oil. Sup-plied with wedges of lime, small bowls of dips—including Srichacha chili sauce and “Bulldog”(a popular Japanese dipping sauce)—and lots of beer, we dipped the hot, crispy fish into thesauces and directly into our mouths. It was communal, creative and simple, and an oceanaway from the conventional salmon feed I had learned to expect of friends. More important,the smelts were quite tasty—salty, crispy and not overwhelmingly fishy. It was an unwelcomesurprise to later discover that, despite being marked “product of Canada,” these frozensmelts had travelled much farther than we had expected—all the way from Peru. The les-son? Always ask (see note at the end of story). Imagine, I thought, what this would be likewith fresh, local sardines.“We are so lucky to have all of this product at our doorstep. It’s a shamemore people don’t

make the effort to appreciate it; the salmon could use the rest,” said Schack.Sometimes, it can be hard to be a conscious eater. But during our recent fishing expedi-

tions, the empty hootchie (that “no-fail” salmon lure) has repeatedly reinforced the need.As we pulled up its empty hook over and over again, a passage from Bottomfeeder echoedin mymind, “I draw the line where the pursuit or cultivation of my dinner obviously damagesthe environment, where cruelty is involved, where pollutants or adulterants make it unsafeto eat,” writes Grescoe. “For me, a pleasure that diminishes the experience of everybodyelse on earth is no pleasure at all.”Increasingly, we are all being asked to think outside the salmon stream. There is no doubt

that what we eat (and howmuch of it) has profound impacts on our health and planet. Maybewe all should simply stop eating fish but realistically, I just don’t think that’s going to happen.We can, however, choose to eat differently. We can eat less fish in general and opt, at leastsometimes, for those smaller fish with bigger taste. After all, as my Mom used to say, “Goodthings come in small packages.” And, as I have learned, some of the tastiest.

Note: Always ask about the origin of fish and seafood. According to SeaChoice (www.sea-choice.org <http://www.seachoice.org> ), Canadian seafood-labelling regulations do notrequire labels to include the country of origin of seafood, whether it is wild-caught or farmed,or whether the product contains colourants or other additives. Those “product of Canada”smelts we thought were caught off the Vancouver coastline were, in fact, from Peru.

GRILLED PACIFIC SARDINE FILLETS SERVED ONDUNEGENESS CRAB AND QUINOA SALADServes 4• 4 whole fresh sardines (two fillets per person). After cleaning and deboning; about 8oz perperson• 2 cups quinoa• 1/2 lb fresh Dungeness crab meat• 2 whole shallots• 1 cup coarse chopped parsley• 2 lemons, zest removed and reserved for garnish• Approx 3 tbsp Olive oil• Add 1 cup of cleaned and blanched English shelling peas to the salad ingredients.• Salt and pepper

Clean and de-bone sardines. Season with sea salt and fresh ground pepper. Place on hotgrill for 4 minutes on each side, cooking skin side first.To prepare the salad: Cook quinoa, toss with good olive oil and let cool.When cold, mix in crabmeat. Add parsley, shallots and juice from zested lemons. Re-

serve zest for garnish.Place one large spoonful of crab and quinoa salad into the centre of each plate and lay

the grilled sardine fillets over top, skin side up to show off your expert grilling skills.Sprinkle each plate evenly with remaining lemon zest, a drizzle of olive oil, and a pinchof coarse sea salt.

Vista 18’sThe www.bcseafoodonline.comdatabase gives excellentinstruction on buying wholePacific sardines: “Look for cleargills and eyes and a fresh, mildaroma. Avoid sardines thathave red eyes or a rednessaround the gill plate, called gillblush. When buying freshsardines, conduct the ‘clocktest’ to assess the level of fresh-ness: first grasp the sardine bythe head, then allow it to flopto one side and relate theangle of the fish to a clock.While a firm sardine with a 12o’clock reading is ideal, anangle between 12 o’clock and3 o’clock is acceptable.”Sardines are in season fromJune to October. Ask for themat Finest at Sea, Meinhardt,Choices and at your local fishcounter.Sardines courtesy of SeasideMarketingwww.seasidemarketing.caBooks and Resources: Blue Water Café Seafood Cookbook by Frank Pabst and Yoshihiro Tabo, Douglas and McIntyre, 2009; A Good Catch by Jill Lambert, David Suzuki Foundation, Greystone

Publishing, 2008.; Tin Fish Gourmet by Barbara-jo McIntosh, Raincoast Books, 1998 (out of print, but can be purchased on the Internet) www.oceanwisecanada.org www.seachoice.org

22

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EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2009

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23www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST2009

Recipes and food styling by JENNIFER DANTERPhotography by REBECCA WELLMAN

Nothing says summer like a barbecued burger. Has to be "old-school" stylethough - and that means grilled over glowing charcoal to get that smokybackwoods flavour. Plus it gives you extra time to drink a tall cold one whilethe coals slowly fire up. But do add a twist. Try local lamb instead of the usualbeef. And why not go topless? Ditch the bun and go for a grilled pita.

HERBED LAMB BURGERSRaid the garden and gather whatever herb is ripe for the picking – lemon balm, mint,cilantro, basil, whatever. Anything goes when it comes to full-flavoured lamb burgers. Andthese have a melting, gooey surprise in the middle too. Serves 6

• Butter, 1 tsp• Finely chopped large onion, 1• Ground cumin, 2 tsp• Sea salt, generous pinches• Freshly ground black pepper, generous pinches• Ground lamb, 2 lbs• Chopped garden herbs, 3 heaping tbsp• Goat or cow milk feta, 150 to 200g

Melt butter in a small frying pan over medium heat. Add onion and cook until translucent,about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with cumin and pinches of salt. Stir until fragrant, about 1 minute.Set aside to cool.Crumble lamb into a large bowl. Sprinkle with herbs and a generous pinch of salt and pep-

per. Scrape onions overtop. Using your hands, mix just until all ingredients are evenly dis-tributed. Moisten hands with water and shape into 6 balls. Break 6 small chunks from feta.Save leftovers to crumble over burgers once they’re cooked. Press one chunk into centre ofeach ball. Form into patties, making sure cheese is entirely covered. If making ahead, coverand refrigerate overnight.Barbecue burgers over medium heat until firm when pressed, 5 to 7 to minutes per side.

Crumble more feta over burgers and dish up with Roasted Garlic Yogurt Sauce.

Roasted Garlic Yogurt SauceThis is similar to tzatziki but made with roasted garlic so the bite is mellow. The trick to keep-ing the sauce thick is to first strain the yogurt and salt the cucumber so neither waters outtoo much once it’s mixed. If it seems ridiculous to roast only a few cloves of garlic, go for thewhole head. It keeps well and adds punch to salad dressings, barbecue sauces and mari-nades. Makes 1 heaping cup

• 3.5% natural yogurt, 11/2 cups• Garlic cloves, 3 to 5• English cucumber, 1/2• Mix of chopped cilantro and chives, 3 tbsp• Sea salt and fresh ground pepper, generous pinches

To thicken yogurt, line a sieve with cheesecloth. Place over a bowl. Spoon yogurt over cloth.Cover and refrigerate at least 3 hours, preferably overnight.To roast garlic, cut tips of cloves so garlic is exposed. Drizzle with a little olive oil and seal

in foil. Bake in 300F oven until soft, about 20 to 30 minutes.Peel and seed cucumber. Finely chop and place in a colander. Sprinkle with generous

pinches of salt. Let stand for 20 minutes, then rinse under cold running water. Squeeze outexcess liquid and pat dry with towels.Place thickened yogurt in a bowl. Squeeze out roasted garlic cloves and mash, using the

flat side of a knife. Add to yogurt along with cucumber. Sprinkle with cilantro, chives, saltand pepper. Stir to mix. Spoon over Herbed Lamb Burgers.

Meg’s Chili-Garlic Pickled CarrotsThis recipe comes from my good friend Meg Webster. I have fond memories of sitting in herbackyard on a sunny day, crunchy these garlicky goodies and drinking beer. Make a goodstash of them – they’re handy to pull out for quick side dishes. Makes 6-500mL jars

• Water, 6 cups• White vinegar, 2 cups• Kosher salt, 3/4 cup• Carrots, 3 lbs• Garlic cloves, 18 to 20• Dill sprigs, preferably with seeds, 6• Chili flakes, 11/2 tsp

For the brine, in a large saucepan, bring water, vinegar and salt to a boil.Peel carrots and cut into “sticks”. Peel garlic cloves and gently crush with a knife – cloves

should still be intact, just slightly open to release flavour.Sterilize jars, lids and screw bands for 6 500mLmason jars (see below). Divide carrots be-

tween hot jars and drop 3 garlic cloves, 1 dill sprig and 1/4 tsp chili flakes into each jar. Pourboiling brine overtop, leaving about 1/8-inch at top of each jar. Cover with sterilized lids andlightly tighten screw bands.Process in a boiling water bath for 8 minutes, then let turn off heat. Let stand in water for

2 more minutes before carefully removing. Best to let sit a few weeks to let flavour developbefore eating. Store in a cool dark place up to 1 year


SUMMER FRUIT SPOON CAKEThis is really about showcasing the glorious fruits of summer than anything else.A few dollops of lavender-lime scented batter barely holds it all together. Let stand a fewhours before serving so the cake can soak up all the perfumed fruit juices. Serves 6

Filling• Ripe peaches, about 1 1/2 lbs, peeled and chopped• Blueberries, 2 cups• Blackberries, 2 cups• Granulated sugar, 1/2 cup• All-purpose flour, 2 tbsp

Batter• All-purpose flour, 3/4 cup• Granulated sugar, 3/4 cup• Baking powder, 3/4 tsp• Small lime, grated peel• Organic dried lavender buds, 1/2 tsp, chopped• Sea salt, generous pinch• Organic egg, 1• Milk (2% or homogenized), 1/4 cup• Vanilla extract, 1 tsp• Organic butter, 1/4 cup + 2 tbsp, melted

For the filling, butter a large, deep-dish pie plate. In a large bowl, stir peaches, blueberriesand blackberries with sugar and 2 tbsp flour. Turn into buttered pie plate.For the batter in a bowl, whisk flour with sugar, baking powder, lemon peel, lavender and

salt. Whisk eggs with milk and vanilla. Pour over dry ingredients and whisk just until mois-tened, then whisk in melted butter until mixed. Spoon over fruit, leaving a few gaps. Bat-ter will spread as it bakes.Bake in centre of preheated 375F oven until fruit is tender and bubbly and cake is deep

golden, 45 min. to 1 hour. Let stand at least 1 hour before serving.

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British anPoplar Grove DinnerIan Sutherland of Poplar Grove Winery and Jason Leizert of Niche restaurant createda decadent, elegant and delectable six course wine pairing dinner at Six Mile Pub’sevent space on April 22. The venue, more upscale Whistler rental accommodationfeeling than restaurant, furnished the evening with a pleasant intimate but relaxingenvironment to enjoy the food and wine. Highlights were the poached sablefish withtruffle, egg and chives with the Poplar Grove 2006 Chardonnay and also the braisedveal cheeks with morels, mint and morels with the Poplar Grove 2005 Merlot. —G.E.

6 Mile Liquor Store 489 Island Hwy, Victoria BC 1-250-391-4458Poplar Grove 1060 Poplar Grove Road, Penticton, BC 1-604-493-WINE


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(250) 642-35961831 Maple Ave. Sooke

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Vancouver Island’sbest kept secret

Markus’Wharfside Restaurant

Cider RenaissanceThe centuries-old craft of making apple cider has become anart in B.C.—by Christopher Pollon

LONG BEFORE THE OKANAGAN BECAME B.C.’S FRUIT BASKET, SOUTHERN VANCOUVERIsland was home to vast apple orchards that supplied a thriving apple cider industry. WithWorldWar I and Prohibition came the end and the axe: many local orchards were cleared, andthe fermentation of apples in the northern European tradition was all but over.Historically, every country that has cultivated the apple has used it to make alcohol, but it

is in England and France where cider-making traditions run deepest. Over time, these cidershave evolved to possess a wide range of styles and complexity: they can range from mouth-puckeringly tart to honey sweet; some are clear, pale and sparkling, while others are cloudyand dark. Alcoholic strength also varies widely.On this side of the pond, the last decade has seen a North American revival in the centuries-

old art of making apple cider, which is very different from the cloudy and unfermented drinkwe all grew up with here.“We ferment the fruit, so the cider is more like wine than beer,” says Janet Docherty, who

owns theMerridale Estate Cidery in the Cowichan Valley with partner Rick Pipes. “We’re tra-ditionalists, which means we craft in smaller batches, use pure juice and don’t use preserva-tives. We don’t compromise.”Being a traditionalist means cultivating centuries-old varieties of northern European heir-

loom apples with names like Tremlett’s Bitter, Chisel Jersey, Frequin Rouge and Hauxapfel.Most of us wouldn’t recognize these varieties, let alone want to bite into them. Prized for theirvery high tannin content, most are extremely bitter off the tree.SinceMerridale rebuilt and expanded its cidery in 2003, they have fine-tuned the recipes for

eight ciders, producing all with fruit grown in their own and neighbouring orchards. These in-clude a British pub cider, their dry French-styled Cidre Normandie aged in oak barrels, andciders infused with local honey and berries.Not far away in Saanichton, Bruce and Kristin Jordan operate Sea Cider Farm and Cider

House, where they cultivate more than 1,000 certified organic cider apple trees within sight ofthe ocean, including Golden Russet and King of Tomkins heirloom apples, two North Americanapple varieties that were common on the island before Prohibition.Like Merridale, Sea Cider products represent a mixture of both the old and new world: their

Wild English cider is fermented with wild yeasts; Kings and Spies is reminiscent of an Italianprosecco sparkling white wine, crafted from cider apples and amixed bag of unidentified heir-loom apples collected from “old growth” trees across the south island.More than a farm cidery, Sea Cider is a tourist destination as well. It’s open to the public

year round, and visitors can sample and buy ciders at the tasting room, take a farm tour andshop for hand-crafted farm products (11 a.m. to 6 pm. -Wednesday through Sunday). In springand summer, guests can sip ciders paired with organic cheeses from an expansive deck over-looking their orchards and the sea.The Okanagan of course has its own cider traditions, granted with a certain local and mod-

ern twist. Raven Ridge Cidery began producing its celebrated iced apple cider after an earlyfrost in 2002 left many of the apples in its 140-acre crop frozen on the tree. But necessity isthe mother of invention, and the frozen apples did not go to waste.“The frost separates the nectar of the apple from the water, and this is what we use tomake

our ice cider,” says marketing manager Rich Priske, who estimates that it takes up to 100 ap-ples to make one 375-mL bottle.Most of Raven Ridge’s cider is sold locally from the farm store, including ciders made from

the familiar Fuji, Braeburn, Ambrosia and Granny Smith varieties. As Priske maintains, the se-cret to their success has been careful crafting, the best local fruit and a good dose of serendip-ity.“We make small batches, it’s made by hand, and this all came about by accident.”

ENGLANDWeston’s Premium Organic CiderH. Weston & Sons, HerefordshireExported here by one of England’s best-knowncider companies, Weston’s Premium OrganicCider (6.5 percent alcohol) is aged in old oak vatsto develop a rich smooth character. Available inB.C. liquor stores, this gold-coloured cider has aslight fizz with a pleasant tartness on the finish.

FRANCEVal de Rance Cidre Bouche Doux Cru BretonLes Celliers Associés, BrittanyAn earthy, blonde-coloured cider from Brittany, thisone’s ideal for sipping chilled from a tall lagerglass (or champagne flute) in a comfy lawn chair.The French cider is carried seasonally by LibertyWine Merchants, and their one-time shipment ar-rives towards the end of summer. It goes very fast;people should phone ahead because French ex-pats usually buy it up in quantity.

British and French Ciders Available Here

nt createdMile Pub’smmodationut relaxinglefish withhe braisedlot. —G.E.


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Edamame. Tesource of probecause theblanched in ssnack that’s mmake hummuto buy organi

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THE VICTORIAEATBUZZCAFECongratulations Victoria; this summer sees a plethora of citizen-spurred initiatives based aroundfood security and environmental sustainability come to fruition. Taking a huge stride in this direc-tion, Thrifty Foods has announced it will become plastic bag free beginning July 22nd after 80%of customers surveyed agreed that plastic grocery bags should not be used. The folks atAmbrosio’s Markets are right on board with this eco-minded measure (plastic bags pollute wa-terways, plug drain pipes, and can entangle wildlife) and will also stop supplying plastic bags earlyJuly. Both establishments will be providing reusable grocery bags at low cost to make the transi-tion from disposable to reusable a little smoother.Paving the way for further improvements, the creation of the Vancouver Island Community

Research Alliance (VICRA) answers the call from community groups in the greater Victoria areaand beyond to investigate the island’s food security issues. Currently, a collaboration of small localgroups based in Cowichan Valley, Victoria, and Sooke are working in conjunction with theUniversity of Victoria on a project focused on researching the state of Vancouver Island’s food andhealth. If you’re interested in being involved in this, you can start by answering their CommunityCampus Partnerships Food CBR Survey. www.communitycouncil.caHot off the press is a new Sooke Region Farm and Food Guide listing farms, country mar-

kets, restaurants, food shops, and low-cost local food sources. Just the thing for residents andtourists wishing to support small farmers and get a real taste of the local terroir. Check it out atwww.sookefoodchi.ca. For a list of the hippest independent, mom-and-pop, locally-owned eater-ies in Victoria, don’t miss the updated Modern Urban Guide, available in paper at participat-ing businesses it can also be perused at modernurbanguides.com. And fans of long time Victoriaresident Elizabeth Levinson’s original guide to the island’s best food, An Edible Journey, will notwant to miss the freshly squeezed third edition with lots of new Victoria-based artisans, markets,and eateries mapped out on the pages (look for our review at www.eatmagazine.ca).A few such places that have just cropped up in the Victoria scene include Lower Johnson’s hip

Picnic Café (check out their tongue-in-cheek lodge décor featuring locally made cardboard mooseheads), a shiny new additional location for Demitasse on Broad, andMo:lé’s CosmoMeens’ lat-est creation, the Village Family Market at Quadra and Pandora highlighting fresh 100-mile pro-duce, healthy meals to go, and a coffee cart. The quaint and cozy Lucy’s in the Square (seeprofile on pg. 18): market café features local produce and adds another piece to the FernwoodSquare jigsaw puzzle. What with the Gladstone Café, Fernwood Inn, Stage Wine Bar, andBelfry Theatre you may just find yourself spending many a summer evening within this fifty footradius.In Oak Bay, next door to BC Wine Guys and Slaters, chef Sam Chalmers has taken over the

space recently vacated by Wren to open Bistro28. The room is being reconfigured to add moreseats, a stool bar and a 4-seat outdoor patio. The menu will focus on small plates and the open-ing is set for June 27. Chalmers worked at The Superior, Pescatores and Stage. At The MarinaMatt Rissling has taken the helm as chef after Jeff Keenliside left to open his own place.In other resto news Veneto at the Hotel Rialto at the corner of Douglas and Pandora has

opened its doors (pg. 17); chef Edward Tuscon (ex Sooke Harbour House) and partner GemmaClaridge have opened The EdGe (pg. 16) on Sooke’s main drag in a former fish and chips joint;and Alison Biggs and Devour (in the former Cafe Madrid space on Broughton has won over thelunch crowd with its locally-inspired fare. Candace Hartley (ex Dunsmuir Lodge) is now chef at thenew restaurant at Church & State. Her Vineyard Luncheon is available Wednesdays to Sundaysfrom11:30 am to 3:30 pm. Congrats to Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub on their 25th anniversary!At Vancouver Magazine’s annual Restaurant Awards Brasserie L’Ecole took Best Victoria,

Sooke Harbour House - Best Vancouver Island, The Pointe at theWickaninnish Inn - Best Re-sort Dining and Shawnigan's Bradford Boisvert and Leah Bellrive of Amusé Bistro were awardedSilver for Best Vancouver Island restaurant. "Amusé Bistro", Vancouver Magazine writes, "deliversproof positive that a short menu celebrating local ingredients means a talented couple can createa better restaurant than many a resort with more resources."Thanks to local restaurants, concerned citizens, and local activist groups, Madrona Farm is

close to reaching its goal sum to secure its land from development. Facing another deadline thisJuly, Victorians can support the cause by donating, volunteering, or attending local fundraising din-ners (stay tuned to The Bulletin Board on eatmagazine.ca for upcoming dinners). And let CaffeFantastico’s new policy to donate a percentage of the environmental surcharge on take-out cupsto Madrona Farm assuage your guilt when you forget to pack your reusable coffee mug.The biennial Canadian Chefs’ Congress brings together hundreds of chefs from across

Canada to brainstorm on food-related issues and celebrate the unique food cultures of our coun-try. Cowichan Valley has been given the great honour of hosting the next congress, to be held inSeptember 2010. Themed around the health of our oceans and the inclusion of First Nations’ tra-ditional foods, focus topics will include sustainable seafood, pollution, federal and provincial re-serves, and fishing methods. Chefs Robert Clark (C Restaurant) and Vikram Vij (Vij’s) will headup the BC Steering Committee and ICC President Cory Pelan and Deerholme Farm’s Bill Joneswill represent Vancouver Island at the table. Stay tuned to the Canadian Chefs Congress blog(canadianchefscongress.blogspot.com) for updates. —Katie Zdybel


What’s in Season

Cook the edamame and shell the pods. Hull the strawberries and cut them into quarters.Wash and spin the salad greens and tear them into bite-sized pieces. Snap off the woodyend of the asparagus. Blanch asparagus, cauliflower and broccoli briefly until just ten-der. Cut the asparagus into bite size pieces.With the large prong of a zester, rip groovesdown the sides of each carrot, in four places. Slice the carrots into thin flower-shapedcoins. Combine all ingredients. Toss the salad in vinaigrette. Arrange the salad in twobowls and dig in.

GET FRESH — by Sylvia WeinstockTHIS MONTH’S SHOPPING BASKET RECIPE

THE BIG SALADEdamame. Tender, fresh soybeans are a delicious snack or hors d’oeuvre. They are a goodsource of protein, calcium and omega-3 fatty acids. The word “edamame”means “twig bean”because the beans grow in clusters on bushy branches. After the edamame pods are brieflyblanched in salt water, the beans can be squeezed from the pods right into your mouth—asnack that’s more fun than popcorn. For a taste sensation, use cooked edamame beans tomake hummus. Pulse the beans with garlic, lemon juice, salt and a touch of tahini. Be sureto buy organic edamame, which is available in the freezer section of most supermarkets.

Strawberries. These sweet treats are available from June to September. Numerous localfarms, includingMichell Brothers, Le Coteau Farms and Garden Centre, Mar’s Pumpkin PatchFarm Stand, Oldfield Orchard and Bakery, Rosemeade Farms and Pederson Berry Farm, growstrawberries. These berries are high in vitamin C, ellagic acid and potassium. They are the in-spiration for summer desserts, from strawberries and cream to strawberry shortcake. Straw-berries Romanoff combines the berries with sugar, vanilla extract, kirsch or rum and heavycream.

Blueberries. July and August are heavenly months for those who can never get enough freshblueberries. These tart sweet taste sensations are available from many local farms startingin early July through to the end of August. Silver Rill Berry Farm, Phil’s Farm,Mt. Newton Blue-berries, Bluebeary Hill Farm, Meadowbrook Farm (where they use ladybugs for pest control)and Ruby Red Farm (certified organic blueberries) grow blueberries. For a complete list go towww.islandfarmfresh.com

Pumpkinseeds. These yummy green nuggets are high in protein and rich in nourishing, re-vitalizing nutrients. They are an excellent source of antioxidant vitamin E and have far moreiron, potassium, copper and phosphorus than pumpkin flesh. They are also a good source ofB-complex vitamins. They have an abundance of zinc, which revs up the libido. Men haveeaten the seeds for thousands of years as a remedy for impotence. Zinc partners with calciumto strengthen and protect bones. Pumpkin seeds are also rich in vitamin A. Zinc and vitaminA are essential for beautiful, healthy skin.

• 1/2 cup edamame• 1/4 cup strawberries• 1 head baby red lettuce• half a head of radicchio• 1 bunch arugula• 10 spears asparagus• a handful of baby cauliflower florets

• a handful of baby broccoli florets• 1/4 cup cooked garbanzo beans• 1/4 cup sunflower seeds• 1/4 cup blueberries• 1/4 cup pumpkinseeds• 4 baby carrots

Seinfeld's Elaine Benes loved “The Big Salad” from Monk's Cafe because it had “lotsof stuff.” Jerry Seinfeld described it facetiously as “big lettuce, big carrots and toma-toes the size of volleyballs.” In my colourful version, The Big Salad is big, but the in-gredients are the smallest, most tender, baby-sized veggies and seasonal berries. Dressit with your favourite vinaigrette, dole it out into big bowls and enjoy this smorgas-bord of summer tastes at their finest.

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The Abkhazi Garden, possibly The LandConservancy’s most exquisite acquisition, isnow serving lunches by chef Mirjana Vukmanof Mirjana’s in Dragon Alley. Menu options in-clude roasted beets, wild smoked salmon withMiner’s lettuce and fresh herbs from thegarden. This new concept is more than a treat

for Fairfield, which boasts foodies, but no localfoodie destination. SaysMirjana, “It is my priv-ilege to help them in transition from a teahouse to a little restaurant on the hill.” —G.E.Lunch served at Abkhazi Garden 11:30-3:00pmWednesdays-Sunday. 1964 Fairfied,Tel: 250-598-8096

G rowing up in Vancouver, summer wasmyfavourite time, especially when it cameto fresh fruit season. The summer tree

fruits—from scarlet-hued cherries andgolden apricots to ruby-kissedpeaches — were eagerlyanticipated in our homekitchen.I was raised in a super-market family, and itwas always aspecial occasionwhen the first case ofOkanagan cherriesarrived, plump andbursting withjuiciness, signallingthe advent of the treefruit crops from thevalley. We knew that in theweeks ahead, the cornucopiaof fruit we brought into ourstore would be purchased notonly for fresh eating but also forthose wanting to fill their pantries for the coldmonths. As a young kid working at the market, Ilearned the various types of cherries from Chelanto Bing to Lapins, and the differences between

clingstone and freestone peaches with their exoticnames of Desert Gold, Cardinal and Red Havens. Istill have vivid fragrant memories of stocking our

produce shelves with the tree-ripen fruitand their sweet perfumes.

Our local fruit should beenjoyed during the seasonwhen it’s picked ripe andready. I don’t think I’veever eaten any fruitfrom anotherhemisphere in theoff-seasons withany degree ofcomfort or satisfac-tion. Especially whenI consider how earlythe fruit had to be

picked and how far it hadto travel to get to our local

markets. They certainly don’thave the fragrance or taste ofmy childhood memories.While our wonderful tree fruits

are in season, enjoy them while they’re here, thenwait with anticipation until they come alongagain… perfectly ripe and ready, from our localfarms.


By Nathan Fong Photograhy Tracey Kusiewicz

TreeFruitfulWith generous lashings of butter, pastry, whipping cream and crème fraîche,tasty stone fruits like peaches, cherries, apricots and plums are simply delicious.

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Free-form galettes are so simple and easy to make. I always have some pastry dough madeand stored in my freezer, especially during the summer when all the great fruits are in sea-son. This is a simple dessert to make for those last-minute dinner guests. These types ofgalettes are popular in France and are easy to make because the pastry is simply folded overthe filling. Serves 4.

• 1/2 recipe quick pastry (see below) or store-bought pastry dough• 3 to 4 Tbsp ground almonds, lightly toasted• 1/4 to 1/2 cup sugar, plus extra for sprinkling• 1 1/2 to 2 cups pitted and sliced plums, apricots, cherries or peaches• 1/4 cup finely chopped crystallized ginger• 1 egg, well beaten

Position rack in the centre of the oven and preheat to 400°F.On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the pastry to roughly 12-by-12-inch round. Transferto baking sheet. Mix together the ground almonds with 2 Tbsp sugar and sprinkle mixtureover the centre of the pastry, leaving about a 3-inch border all around. Mound or arrange thefruit and chopped ginger on top and sprinkle 2 Tbsp or more of sugar over the fruit. Fold thepastry over the filling, leaving a central opening, about 2 to 3 inches across. Brush the crustwith beaten egg and sprinkle remaining sugar on the crust.

Bake for 35 minutes, or until crust is golden and fruit starts to bubble. Remove and cool ona rack for at least 20 minutes before serving. Serve with whipped cream, crème fraîche orvanilla ice cream.

Quick PastryMakes enough for two 8-inch pies.

• 1 1/2 cup all-purpose flour• 1 Tbsp sugar• 1 tsp salt• 3/4 cup (12 Tbsp) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces• 2 Tbsp lemon juice• 4 to 7 Tbsp cold water

Place flour, sugar and salt into a food processor bowl. Pulse two or three times until mixed.Add butter and pulse gradually until mixture becomes like coarse gravel. Add lemon juiceand cold water, 2 Tbsp at a time, and pulse until mixture comes together and barely forms aball. Remove dough, flatten into a round disc and divide in half. Flatten each half into a rounddisc, wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or up to 2 days.

FREE-FORM SUMMER FRUIT GALETTE WITH CANDIED GINGER


ROASTED BLACK CHERRIESWITH VANILLA ICE CREAMThis dessert was created by Thierry Busset, the talentedpastry chef from Cin Cin in downtown Vancouver. When Ifirst heard about the cherries being roasted in olive oil Iwas somewhat skeptical, but this has become one of myfavourite seasonal desserts at the restaurant. Serves 4.

• 1/2 lb fresh or frozen raspberries (not in sugar or syrup)• 5 Tbsp sugar• 2 pounds fresh large firm cherries (such as Bing orRainier)• 1/4 cup good olive oil• 2 to 3 Tbsp cherry liqueur (optional)• Good quality vanilla ice cream

Mix the raspberries and sugar together; place into foodprocessor and puree. Pass through a fine sieve and discardseeds.Pit the cherries and cut each in half. Preheat a skillet over

medium heat and add olive oil. Heat until hot but not smok-ing. Add the cherries and gently toss or sauté with awooden spoon tomake sure cherries are well covered withthe olive oil. Cook for about 2 minutes until cherries arewarm throughout, but not hot.Pour the cherries into a bowl. Deglaze the pan with

cherry liqueur, if using. Pour the raspberry coulis into theskillet and bring to a boil and reduce for about 3 minutes,then add cherries to the hot coulis. Gently sauté until wellmixed until cherries are coated.Spoon cherries into serving bowls, dividing sauce and

top with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Serve immediately.

CHERRY CLAFOUTISClafoutis is the popular French baked custard-like dessertmade with fresh cherries. It can also be made with plums,prunes, blueberries, blackberries, fresh figs or cranberries,but then the name changes to a flognarde. Traditionally itshould be made with whole cherries rather than pitted,which keeps the cherry juice from bleeding into the cus-tard. This is an adaption of the clafoutis tart from Jean-Francis and Alessandra Quaglia’s Provence restaurants inVancouver where they add white chocolate to the filling.Serves 8 to 10.

• Butter, for greasing• 1 1/2 to 2 cups fresh firm cherries (pitted, optional)• 3/4 cup chopped white chocolate• 4 Tbsp all-purpose flour• 1/2 cup sugar• 1/2 cup milk• 3/4 cup whipping cream• 1 tsp vanilla extract• 4 eggs• For garnish: icing sugar, whipped cream or crème fraîche

Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 6-cup fluted or plain flandish with butter and dust with a small amount of sugar. Dis-tribute cherries and white chocolate along bottom of theflan dish.Mix the flour and sugar in a bowl, add themilk, whipping

cream, vanilla and whisk together until blended. Add theeggs and whisk until smooth. Slowly pour filling overberries and chocolate. Place into oven and bake for 35 to40 minutes or until puffed and golden. Garnish with icingsugar and serve warm with whipped cream or crèmefraîche.

APRICOT BRIOCHE ANDBUTTER PUDDINGThis simple recipe is an adaptation of a dessert I had inMelbourne a few years ago during their summer. Tradi-tionally, bread and butter puddings are richer and heavierwith a custard-based filling and are typically served in thecooler seasons. In this case, the apricots are gently cookeduntil soft and set over toasted brioche, which makes it alight dessert for the warmer weather. Serves 6 to 8.

• 2 lbs apricots, halved and pitted• 1 Tbsp lemon juice• 1/3 cup sugar• 12 1/2-inch thick brioche slices (or any other sweetdough • bread, such as panettone)• 1/4 cup butter• For garnish: roasted flaked almonds, mascarpone orwhipped cream

Mix together apricots, lemon juice and 1/4 cup sugar in asaucepan and cook, covered over medium heat, until apri-cots are soft.Spread brioche slices with butter, place overlapping

slices in an ovenproof dish and sprinkle with remainingsugar. Bake at 400°F for 10 minutes or until brioche isgolden. Top with apricot mixture and return to oven for 5minutes or until bubbly. Sprinkle with almonds and servewith mascarpone or whipped cream.

PLUM AND FRANGIPANETARTFrangipane is a simple filling of almonds, eggs and butter.Instead of plums, any just-ripe fruit will do, such as apri-cots, nectarines and peaches. This is best served warmwith whipped cream. Serves 8 to 10.

• 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour• 3 Tbsp sugar• 7 Tbsp cold vegetable shortening• 5 Tbsp cold butter• 5 to 6 Tbsp cold water• 1 1/2 cups blanched almonds• 2/3 cup sugar• 2 Tbsp all-purpose flour• 1/2 cup melted butter• 2 eggs• 1 tsp vanilla extract• 8 to 10 plums

In a food processor, add flour, sugar, shortening and coldbutter and pulse until mixture is like coarse sand. Add thewater and process until the pastry just comes togetherforming a ball. Remove and flatten into a round disc, wrapand refrigerate for at least 20 minutes.Roll out chilled pastry and line a 10-inch tart pan (with

removable bottom). Chill in freezer for 20 minutes.Preheat oven to 425°F.Place the almonds onto a baking sheet and roast for 5 to

7minutes, shaking sheet occasionally to prevent nuts fromburning. Allow to cool, then grind in a food processor untilfine. To make the frangipane, add the sugar, 2 Tbsp flour,melted butter, eggs and the vanilla extract; process untilsmooth.Reduce oven to 400°F.Remove the chilled tart pan from freezer and line pastry

with foil, then weigh it with dried beans or rice and blindbake for 15 minutes. Remove the foil and beans and returnpastry to oven, baking a further 10 minutes or until pastry

is crisp. Remove from oven and allow to cool.Reduce oven to 350°F.Remove the stones from the plums and cut each plum

into 4 or 6 pieces. Spoon the frangipane into the pastryshell. Arrange the plums over the frangipane and bake for30 to 35 minutes or until filling is set and golden. Removeand allow to cool. Serve warm.

PAN-FRIED PEACHES WITHROASTED CHICKEN ANDCRISPY TARRAGONAfter all those delicious desserts, I’ll end with an entrée.This simple yet flavourful recipe comes from a friend, Auck-land, N.Z, cookbook author Julie Biuso. It’s featured in hercookbook Hot Nights Cool Days. Serve with a greatSauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough Valley! Serves 6.

• 1 free-range corn-fed organic chicken (around 3 pounds)• Butter• Generous handful fresh tarragon• Salt and freshly ground black pepper• 1 cup chicken stock (more if needed)• 1 1/2 lemons• 2 yellow bell peppers• 2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil• 3 firm, late-season peaches• Generous handful of coarsely chopped fresh basil

Rinse chicken inside and out, removing any lumps of fat.Drain, then pat dry with paper towels. Put a nut-size lumpof butter inside the chicken, along with a sprig of tarragonand a little salt and pepper. Slip some tarragon sprigs be-tween the chicken breast skin and meat. Tie the legs withstring around the parson’s nose to keep the cavity closed,then put the chicken in a smallish roasting tin; choose onein which it fits snugly. Pour in the chicken stock.Melt 1 ounce of butter and brush over the chicken.

Squeeze on a little lemon juice and sprinkle with salt. Putthe chicken in an oven preheated to 350°F and cook forabout 1 1/2 hours, basting often (turn the chicken over after20minutes, cook for a further 20minutes, then turn breastside up again for the rest of the cooking). The chickenshould be kept moist during cooking; add more stock if itdries up. Halfway through cooking, or when you turn thechicken breast up again, strew the chicken generously withplenty of tarragon sprigs, which will turn deliciously crisp.Remove the chicken from the oven when it is cooked

through to the bone and let it rest before cutting.Cut the bell peppers in half, remove the cores and seeds

and cut into chunks. Heat the extra-virgin olive oil in amedium frying pan andwhen it is hot, add the bell peppers.Cook for about 10 minutes, turning the peppers, until theyare just starting to wilt. Transfer them to a dish.Cut the chicken into parts and arranged on a large plat-

ter.Leave the skins on the peaches unless they are tough or

bitter, and slice into thick wedges. Heat a large skillet overa medium heat and when it is hot, drop in a knob of butter.Add the peach wedges while the butter is sizzling and cookabout 3 minutes a side; turn carefully with a spoon andfork. Add the peppers to the pan, season with salt and pep-per and pour everything, including juices, over the chicken.Strew the top with loads of basil, toss lightly, then breakthe pieces of crispy tarragon over the top. Serve immedi-ately.

Preparation t

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• 3 large egg whites• 1⁄2 tsp cream of tartar• 3/4 cup berry (extra fine) sugar (see Note)• 1 cup whipping cream• 1 oz. orange liqueur (optional)• 16 small to medium strawberries, hulled and sliced• 1 cup raspberries• 1 cup blueberries or blackberries, or mix of both• 1/4 cup B.C. fruit syrup, such as blueberry or raspberry (optional; see Note)• Icing sugar for dusting• 8 mint sprigs for garnish

Preheat the oven to 225˚F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Draw 8, 3- to 3 1/2-inch circles on the paper (they will guide where to mound the meringue after is it made).Place the egg whites and cream of tartar in a bowl. Beat until very soft peaks form. Grad-ually, beating steadily, add the berry sugar. Keep beating the meringue until glossy andstiff peaks form (they should stand almost straight up). Divide and mound the meringueinto the circles you have drawn on the paper, building up the edges to create a pocket inthe middle.Bake themeringues for 20minutes and then turn the oven off. Let themeringues cool and

dry in the oven for 2 hours.Whip the cream until soft peaks form. Add the orange liqueur, if using, and beat the whip-

ping cream until stiff peaks form. Set a meringue on each of 8 dessert plates. Divide andpipe or spoon an equal amount of whipped cream on each meringue. Divide and arrangethe berries on top of the whipped cream. Dust the pavlova with icing sugar. Garnish eachwith amint sprig and, if desired, for added flare, drizzle each plate in a decorative way withberry syrup.Note: Berry sugar and B.C. fruit syrup, such as those made with blueberries or raspberries,is available in most supermarkets in the aisle other types of sugar and syrup are sold.

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HERE’S A SINGLE-SERVING WAYto make pavlova. This divine dessertfeatures sweet pillows of meringueirresistibly topped with whippedcream and fresh summer berries.The meringues could be made up toa day in advance. After cooling anddrying, leave them on the bakingsheet, cover and store at roomtemperature until needed.

MichaelTourigny

For weekly recipe, wine, news & eventupdates visit www.EATMAGAZINE.ca

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Barbara-jo McIntosh LOCAL HERO

VANCOUVER

Julie Pegg chats with Barbara-jo McIntosh, respected bookseller, author and supporter of the culinary arts,over an “omelette and a glass of wine.”

W hen Umberto Menghi’s Vancouver restaurantsupped the city’s dining ante, several local lumi-naries were spawned. John Bishop (Bishop’s),

Michel Jacob (Le Crocodile), and Pino Posteraro (Cioppino’s)were among them, and so was a slim young homegrown girlnamed Barbara-jo, who accepted the position as assistant tothemanager at Al Porto, initially to earn UBC tuition. The kitchenlured her instead. Barbara-Jo McIntosh spent her dollars anddays learning the culinary ropes at Pierre DuBrulle CulinarySchool and in BCIT’s Food and Beveragemanagement program.She went on to open Barbara-Jo’s Elegant Home Cooking at 10thand Cambie in 1990.Barbara-jo sips her wine and smiles. “I guess even then I did

my best to source local.” And fresh? “Definitely. HazelmereFarms provided organic vegetables.We fried chicken, free-rangeif possible, in buttermilk, and napped Dungeness crab cakeswith house-made cayennemayo. Sautéed goat cheese (thatwasFrench) on local greens and oyster-and-artichoke stew werestars.”For years, though, the successful entrepreneur, also an avid

reader, had been percolating a passion for owning a specialtycookbook shop. A Saveur magazine piece on Notting Hill’s fa-mous Books For Cooks and its working kitchen sprung Barbara-jo into action. Vancouver’s Books To Cooks—with a demokitchen—became a reality in 1998.Chef and cookbook seller came together most impressively.

Barbara-Jo was convinced Vancouver’s burgeoning food scenewas ripe for top-notch books and guest chefs. Since then her in-telligence, grace and wit have attracted famous chefs local andabroad. Vancouver food lovers have gathered in the kitchen tolearn from U.K. bad boy Gordon Ramsay, Saveur’s Coleman An-drews and Michel Roux of Waterside Inn in Berkshire. At presstime, Michael Pollan (The Omnivore’s Dilemma) will have madehis only Canadian stop—with Barbara-jo at UBC Farm.Barbara-jo is big on Canadian content, too. Local celebs have

included John Bishop, Rob Feenie (ex-Lumiere, now CactusClub), West’s Warren Geraghty and Blue Water’s Frank Pabst.Guests delight in the foraging stories of Vancouver Islander BillJones. Sarah McLachlan has appeared with her personal chef.Barbara Jo has also given us New Brunswick’s Laura Calder and,from Toronto, the travelling cookbook writing duo of NaomiDuguid and Jeffrey Alford (latest: Beyond the Great Wall: Recipes& Travels in the Other China).A bestselling author in her own right (Tin Fish Gourmet), Bar-

bara-jo served on the prestigious James Beard Awards cookbookselection committee for six years. And in 2003, she received Van-couver Magazine’s lifetime achievement award for her manycontributions to the local culinary scene.What is this award-win-ning bookseller’s recipe for success? Barbara-jo’s response isimmediate. “Stay focused on your passion, and occasionallyhave a strong drink.”My chat with Barbara-jo reminded me of a comment my hus-

band, a former liquor store manager, made when he first en-countered the young restaurateur as one of his licensees: “Aninteresting place called Barbara-Jo’s just opened up the street.Dealing with the owner and, I guess, chef is a treat. She’s pleas-ant to all the staff and so very organized. I think she’ll make a goof it.”

Check out www.bookstocooks.com for more info on events.

TraceyKusiew

icz

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TraceyKusiew

icz

Slow Food—FastEating on the run can be a tasteful experience.

A nyone who has popped outfor a walk, a ride or a runwith little more than a water

bottle and a five-dollar bill in theirpocket understands the unexpectedtummy growl. Is it possible to satisfythat sudden pangwithout resorting tojunk food? Ay, there’s the rub.After a big mea culpa, I sometimes

duck into McDonald’s for fries (theywere good enough for Julia Child) or asnack wrap (always with chipotlesauce). Wendy’s bean and beef chilisatisfies on a cool day.Mostly, though, I prefer to support

our local food economy. Various wee-nie carts about town are a go-to and,for me, it’s less about the dog and allabout the add-ons. Load that puppyup until it drips down the shirt. TheJapa Dog (thumbs up from AnthonyBourdain) accessorizes its found-only-in-Vancouver dogs with Japan-ese condiments like radish sprouts,wasabi mayo, nori (seaweed) andteriyaki sauce. There are vegetarianpuppies too. Doggie delights are $4-$6; two carts, at Burrard and Smytheand Burrard and Pender).In Kits, I may pop into the Patty Shop

(MacDonald and 23rd) for Jamaican-style flaky pasties filled with curriedchicken or spicy beef ($2 each).

Minerva’s Meditteranean Deli and Greek Supermarket (3207W. Broadway) handsmeminispanakopitas or cheese pies for 60 cents apiece (I munch on a couple with a Greek coffeewhile mulling over which olives and feta to buy). It’s tough to beat the grilled paninis stuffedwith Italian fixings (mortadella, prosciutto, salami, eggplant, roasted peppers …) ($5-$6)at the coffee bar in Bosa Foods (1465 Kootenay, off Boundary Rd.). Pull up a stool or hun-ker down at one of the wrought-iron tables outside.Most enjoyable is a do-it-yourself ploughman’s lunch fromUrban Fare, the ultimate gour-

met grocery. Match a chunk of smoked peppercorn salmon (market price) and thinly slicedartisan rolls (55-80 cents each). Flesh out the fish and bread with a wedge of aged ched-dar and crisp, juicy Braeburn apple. Pilfer, well, maybe ask nicely for, cutlery, napkin and apacket of mustard from the take-out counter. Graze and gaze at the boats bobbing in FalseCreek Inlet steps from the Yaletown Urban Fare (177 Davie), or drink in the North Shoremountains from the lovely new Harbour Green Park across from the Coal Harbour location(305 Bute). —Julie Pegg

The Quest:

Double-smokedpeppercorn smoked salmon,with aged cheddar, Braeburn apple wedges,bun and sliced onion purchased at Urban Fareand eaten outside on the patio.

ElixirRevisited

I’VE BEEN STAYING AT OPUS HOTEL EVER SINCE THEYburst onto the scene and charged the way hotels didbusiness in Vancouver. And each time I find time to dine intheir restaurant Elixir and enjoy the cooking of Chef DonLetendre. Over the years the cooking has veered to Pan-Asian influence but my recent visit showed a return to theoriginal French bistro concept.The newmenu features such appy classics as onion soup

and warm frisée salad with poached egg and bacon; whilemains feature a delicious dish of organic chicken cooked inbeer with mushrooms, mustard spaetze and crème fraîche.

350 Davie Street, Vancouver, BC, 604.642.0557


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icz

R.TL: Chef Erik Smith w/ antipasto platter for 2: zucchiniricotta, provalone, house pickled vegetables.

The “lounge” is in fact a small, chic dining room painted rich dark chocolate. Oh-so-comfy leather dining chairs come in cream. Tucked way back is an intimatecurvy bar. Cutlery, napery and glasses are elegantly simple. Gracing the wallsare handsome bevelled-and-wood-framed convex mirrors—a lovely conceit.

Alain Canuel cuts a dapper figure as he oversees R.TL’s central workings and the(very good) wine program. Executive chef and cowboy (seriously!) Erik Smithjuggles the pots and pans when he’s not horsing about. Sous chef GrantHunnisett could confidently include pastry chef as part of his handle. Mixing uptasty potions behind the bar is master mixologist Matt Martin.

Two regional cuisines rotate every three months while B.C. remains a constant.Dishes are (mainly) tapas-size. We sipped and savoured Portugal and France,and a bite of B.C. Local pork belly and Manila clams honoured Portugal’s porkAlentejana. An assemblage of micro greens, quail eggs, slender haricots vert,black Niçoise olives and fingerling potatoes added up to a Petite Salade Niçoisealmost too pretty to eat. Quadra Island mussels were bathed in a tomato/ginbroth. Duck pâté was pure silk. Gathering from the orgasmic ahhs over the saltcod fritters a couple of tables over, we should have also had what they werehaving.

The Italy and Greece menus are now in full Mediterranean swing. I’m plumpingfor the bread salad with focaccia croutons, fresh tomatoes, chiffonade basilsplashed with white balsamic vinaigrette and the pan-seared fresh Greek cheeseflambéed in ouzo. Try any of Grant’s desserts.

From the cocktail menu, I opted for Matt’s perfect Maker’s Mark Manhattan. Thehouse recommends the Va Va Voom, a sweetish Stoli-based concoction. Winemust-haves: Maccabeu/Vermentino ’07 (white) Morellino di Scansano ’04 (red).

Or get Alain to put together a tasting flight.

CHARACTER

CREW

COOKING

MUST HAVES

DRINK

1130 Mainland St. | 604-638-1550 | www.r.tl —by Julie PeggR.TL(RegionalTastingLounge)Launching a restaurant any time is a gamble. But it’s a major wager during tough weatherand a tougher economy. Prior to opening R.TL’s tinted glass doors last December, there’sa good chance operations manager Alain Canuel spent a few nights pacing the hardwood.But he and his team kept a grip. With weather and wallets lightening up, more and morefolks are drifting into this 50-seat space for a bite and a bevvy on an amble through one ofVancouver’s tonier neighbourhoods.

THE VAs this goes toto UBC Farmbehind Kits Coare out of theing up appieDockside Remaking. (I’m pglass of retsynrib gyros, grillcrispy pita. AMaenam andger” plates ($An’s, not surpbits underneagreen beans, athe kitchen. Thtwo courses $our visit a tumplump Qualicatop a crisp cnuts) were soturned over nePoint (anotherof West VancoCarol Chow (Two recently

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THE VANCOUVEREATBUZZCAFEAs this goes to press the sun god loves Vancouver. Coffee shops are icing the java. Folks throngto UBC Farm and Trout Lake Farmers’ markets Saturdays. On Sundays many farm folk set upbehind Kits Community Centre. Backyard barbecues are all fired up for summer. Picninc hampersare out of the closet. Flip-flops, shorts and shades jam restaurant patios or cool interiors. For soak-ing up appies, ale and a cracker-jack view, I’ve been heading to Granville Island Hotel’sDockside Restaurant for grilled garlicky squid with chili and cilantro and a brew of their ownmaking. (I’m partial to the high-hopped Johnston Street Pilsner). Sharing Greek “plates” over aglass of retsyna has always played a big part in my summer. Right now I’m into Piato’s beef short-rib gyros, grilled lemony calamari, and the unusual pureed beet and olive oil dip that comes withcrispy pita. Angus An turned up the heat on his culinary skills when Gastropod switched toMaenam and he swapped his French flare for spicy Thai. The selection of “smaller” and “big-ger” plates ($7-$24) served lunch to late night demands several visits. There’s pad thai, of course.An’s, not surprisingly, balances brilliantly sweet, sour, salt and crunch. (Scrape up all those tastybits underneath the noodles!). Pork belly rules so does the fish-sauced green papaya salad withgreen beans, and golden mantle oysters. Advice to the wussy palate. If you can’t take the heat tellthe kitchen. Those bird’s eye chillis are three alarm! Meanwhile Wild Rice is doing summer-lite—two courses $22, (partnered with two wines $32) three courses $27, (with three wines $42). Onour visit a tumble of pea vines and bamboo shoots, garnished with tobiko, flanked grilled twoplump Qualicum bay scallops. Then came orange-spiced buttery albacore tuna, barely searedatop a crisp coconut ginger-rice cake. To finish coconut custard filled beignets (Asian style do-nuts) were so damn delicious, we’ve begged them to stay. Another makeover. Sequoia Grill hasturned over new leaf, reverting back to the original The Teahouse in Stanley Park on FergusonPoint (another stunning Vancouver setting). I was thrilled to find the highly regarded former ownerof West Vancouver’s long running Beachside Café, (now remodeled Crave) managing and ChefCarol Chow (ex-Bishops) in the kitchen.Two recently published cookbooks find me noshing outdoors, Euro-style. Lidia’s Italy and Laura

Calder's French Taste—Elegant Everyday Eating. Brunch perfect is Lidia’s frittata (more of a loose-egg scramble really) of fresh-foraged asparagus, scallions and prosciutto. If you’re not familiar withCanada’s own Laura Calder you should be. This sophisticated yet plain speaking Canadian chefreally cooks, on screen, and in French Taste. Easy to prep cauliflower (with sun-dried tomatoes andblack olives) salad or fennel and pine nut salad are the perfect partners for simply grilled fish.(Calder’s excellent Food Network show, French Food at Home will begin Season 3 in October)Happy summer eating! — by Julie Pegg

RESTAURANT LOUNGE BAR

1177 Melville Street Vancouver 604 639 8692 voyarestaurant.com

In the newly opened Loden hotel

Seasonal $38 three-course menu created by Chef Marc-André Choquette, Monday through Wednesday


CULINARY DESTINATION

Salt Spring Island

FrS

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D M S A rR S S r I T

All SeasonsBed & Breakfast

H www.allseasons-saltspring.ca hemail: [email protected]

toll free: 1-866-340-0531

“Home of Stir Crazy PreservesSuperb Chutneys, Relishes & Marmalades”

Mention this ad when booking to receive a gift upon arrival.

French - Latin FusionGreatWine, Live Music Nights

GasolineAlleyReservations 250-537-9911

Support Our Local Farms Eat at Bruce’sEAT IN, TAKE OUT, CATERING

250-931-3399In Restaurant Row

#106-149 FULFORD-GANGES RD.

a la carte dinner menu7 days a week

between 5:30 & 8 pm

160 Upper Ganges RoadPhone 1.800.66l.9255

www.hastingshouse.com

A bundance. It is the word that runs through my mindevery time I visit Salt Spring Island.

Lush, rolling countryside dotted with plump lambs grazingin pastures soaked in sun, munching grasses flavoured by saltair, and thus, I contend, marinating from within for later refer-ence on the BBQ.It is an island of vineyard acreages of carefully cultivated

terroir producing wines such as Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris andMaréchal Foch.Orchards heaving with fruit with flavours deep, intense and

seductive and wild blackberry bushes so thick along the road-side the locals call the season “The Blackberry Plague.”Here youwill find world-class cheeses, some pungent, some

soft and yielding, handcrafted locally, made from the fragrantmilk of sleek goats and fat purebred Jersey cows.Walk to the end of the dock in Ganges and take your pick of

fresh caught wild fish or monster crabs. Sample Salt Springmussels and clams pulled fresh from the ocean; fleshymorsels of sea bounty ready for a steaming pot of white wine,herbs and butter. Or slurp a dozen briny oysters shuckedfresh, eaten whole with a dash of lemon, shot of Tabasco, thenone swoop and down the hatch.Salt Spring Island famed Farmers’ Market starts in early

spring when rhubarb, spring herbs and early season wildmushrooms are yielding up their goodness, having beenCONT’D ON THE NEXT PAGE

Cornucopia IslandA foodie waxes poetic about Salt Spring Island’sgroaning board of fresh, local everything

foraged or hathen offer uparound the mship with themany of whocrafts, swapproduce andEveryone supmendationsshopper to trthe sweet snanother. Thisbrated.Many of th

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foraged or harvested by local farmers whothen offer up this bounty for sale. Strollingaround the market square is to feel a kin-ship with the local Salt Spring residents,many of whom come to sell their goods andcrafts, swap stories, sample each others’produce and support their local businesses.Everyone supports everyone else. Recom-mendations are passed on from seller toshopper to try the breads from one stall orthe sweet snap peas or delicate pastries atanother. This is bounty shared and cele-brated.Many of the local restaurants and inns

further the relationship with Salt Spring Is-land’s “eat local” philosophy supportingfarmers, growers and producers by craftingmenus that showcase local everything from,as the saying goes, soup to nuts. This is notso much The 100 Mile Diet as it is The 25Kilometers in Any Direction Diet.A local SSI friend of mine is always pass-

ing along snippets from the Salt Spring Is-land online community bulletin board. I’msure there is a novel in there someplace be-cause where else would folks be sellingNew Zealand meat rabbits for seriousbreeders only, with a disclaimer that theseare not pets, and, of a certain age will “getmean” if not bred. Then there was the oneabout the bird suits. Yes, you read thatright. These were little poop-retainer nap-pies in case youwanted to take your budgieor duck out for a stroll in mixed company. Irecall reading the fabric motif was Hawai-ian.Salt Spring is an island of festivals for all

five senses – apples, mushrooms, lavender,jazz and the arts – and that’s a very smallsampling of what goes on over 52 weeks. It

also the land of Zen, yoga, aroma therapies,magic hand creams and lotions and potionsfor every part of the body, mind and spirit.Salt Spring is new agemeets any age. It is

a timeless place that seems to have foundits time and its place in our fast-pacedworld. It is a slower more gentle way toenjoy life, celebrate the seasons and reapand share abundance with those who livethere, and with those who choose to comeand “sit for a spell.” ~ Su Grimmer

WHEN YOU GO

All Seasons Bed & Breakfast325 Eagle Ridge Drive, Salt Spring Island,BCToll Free: 1-866-340-0531, www.allseasons-saltspring.ca

Bruce’s Kitchen#106-149 Fulford-Ganges Road, Salt SpringIsland, BC250-931-3399

Cafe Talia122 Hereford Avenue, Salt Spring Island, BC250-931-4441

Hastings House Country House Hotel160 Upper Ganges Road, Salt Spring Island,BC1-800-661-9255, www.hastingshouse.com

Marketplace CaféGasoline Alley, Salt Spring Island, BC250-537-9911

Moby’s Oyster Bar & Grill124 Upper Ganges Road, Salt Spring Island,BC250-537-5559

Salt Spring Island Cheese Farm Shop285 Reynolds Road, Salt Spring Island, BC250-653-2300, www.saltspringcheese.com

DESTINATION SALT SPRING ISLAND

THE COMOXVALLEYEATBUZZCAFESummer is here and the time is right for caipirihñas! Know what that means? Bartender Freddy atAvenue Bistro [2064 Comox Ave, 250-890-9200 www.avenuebistro.ca] does, and that makesme one of his best customers when the sun is beating down (nothing like a glass of ice and mud-dled lime topped off with a couple of oz of cachaça...). Watch out for a tag team effort (ChefAaron and Beaufort Vineyards) for the 5 course Wine Tasting Dinner mid-July. Recently walkedby the sun-drenched patio at Martine’s Bistro [1754 Beaufort Ave, Comox (250) 339-1199]and wished I’d spent my $ there instead of down the hill. Looking forward to what Chef Jesse Pur-den learned from his 2 month culinary trip to Europe.In Courtenay, Chef Jon at Atlas Café [250-6th Street, Courtenay 250.338.9838] is working

the new local brewery into the summer menu: pasta with braised lamb, sun-dried tomatoes, greenpeppercorns and Surgenor Red Ale cream sauce...sounds good to me. Chef Steve Dodd makesa great tomato jam (delish with scallops) and a killer chocolate mousse at Bisque [14th and CliffeAve., Courtenay 250.334.8564 Tues - Sat). Weekend brunch is now a regular, full-on feature atUnion Street Grill & Grotto [477-5th Street, Courtenay 250.897.0081]. This summer Tita’sMexican Restaurant [536-6th Street, Courtenay 250.334.8033] is featuring many more optionsfor small plates and tapas, as well as seasonal margaritas made with fruit from the garden. Zizi'sEastern Mediterranean Specialities [441B Cliffe Avenue 250-334-1661] is following the tastetrail and now offers Bison "Shish Kebaba.” Around the corner of 4th and Cliffe, the courtyard isgetting very cool. It’s now home to Benino Gelato’s Courtenay outlet and Mudshark’s coffeebar. Shade trees. Coffee. Ice cream. Luncheon menu. A great place to hang out and enjoy the sum-mer scenery. Down the road, the “new” Old House Restaurant [1760 Riverside Lane, Courte-nay 250.338.5406] recently had the best ribs I’ve had anywhere in recent memory. Watch outfor an exciting summer event hosted by Chef Ronald St. Pierre of Locals [364-8th Street, Courte-nay 250.338.6493, www.localscomoxvalley.com].

South of town the Kingfisher [4330 Island Highway 250.338.1323 and 800.663.7929

Fresh • Local • Seasonal

Dining in casual elegance.Experience the bounty…

Chef OwnerRonald St. Pierre C.C.C.

Table Champêtre July 26thFarm gourmet dinner and wine pairinghosted at Tannadice Farms. For info,

www.localscomoxvalley .com250-338-6493

Unit C - 368 - 8th Street, Courtenay


6560 Metral Drive, [email protected]/carrotontherun

6560 Metral Drive, [email protected]/carrotontherun

Nanaimo’s Best Gourmet Deli…Nanaimo’s Best Gourmet Deli…

THE NANAIMOEATBUZZCAFE

www.kingfisherspa.com] hosts seafood buffets on July 10th & 24th, Aug 7th & 21st, and Sept 11th& 25th with Sunday Brunch every weekend.Mount Washington is hosting several big fun events this summer: the 10th Annual Beer Festi-

val (July 10); 11th Annual Alpine Wine Festival (Aug 7); and 2nd Alpine Food Festival (Sept 4-6).The latter features cooking classes, celebrity chefs, gala dinner, outdoor marketplace. FMI go towww.mountwashington.ca / 1.888.231.1499.Heriot Bay Inn [1.877.605.4545 /www.heriotbayinn.com] on Quadra Island is where Chef

Eric Dollar is doing great things. Well worth the trip just for the smoked scallop appetizer alone.I’m looking forward to visiting Angler's Dining Room at Dolphins Resort [4125 Discovery Drive

1-800-891-0287 / www.dolphinsresort.com]. Reservations recommended as it’s tiny and hasbeen described as the culinary jewel of Campbell River.—by Hans Peter Meyer

Friends refer to me as “The Urban Forager”. I have favourite spots I’ve ferreted out all over Van-couver Island for things. Lunch things. Dinner things. Spice things. Condiments things. Bread, meatand fish and fowl things. And then there is that classification called “What the hell will I do withthis thing?” I buy those things a lot. On any given day you can find me at a fav haunt for just onething. In Nanaimo, it’s Aladdin’s Café [67 Victoria Crescent, Nanaimo 250.716.1299]. Lentilsoup is the thing here. Real Lebanese vegan lentil soup. Dark, thick, rich, stoked to the brim witha mystic blend of spices imported from Lebanon. One bowl will fill you up for the whole day.Enjoy your soup with a Lebanese coffee. The coffee is strong, sweet and served in a Rakwa, thetraditional Lebanese single-serving coffee pot. You’ll have a caffeine rush for days and the orangewalls and 15-foot Aladdin will all seem to make sense.On Salt Spring Island, I immediately head for Rendezvous French Patisserie [126 – 4 Upper

Ganges Road, Salt Spring Island 250.537.8400] for a cannelé. You will need to get owners,Brigitte & Bruno Gonzales - she is from Normandy and he is from Bordeaux - to explain the leg-end behind this distinctive, chewy, pillowy, eggy, yummy confection. It’s all about Catholic nuns,tiny copper cups, egg yolks and charity fundraising. Brigitte also makes a chocolate meringuething called Incroyable. Again, there is a story, so ask and then indulge.For spice things, I have a cupboard packed to the brim with spices fromMonsoon Coast. An-

drea LeBorgne is the new “spice girl” owner of Monsoon Coast. She bought the company fromlongtime spice guru, Doug Hall. Her products may be found in high-end specialty food outlets inBC and Alberta, at the Salt Spring Island Market or via her website www.monsooncoast.com. Herspice collections are like reading National Geographic, with mixtures from India, Africa, the Mid-dle East, the Caribbean and Pan Asia. She’ll be adding a line in summer 2009 for North Ameri-can BBQ aficionados to savour on their grilled things.When taking a swing through Shawnigan Lake I make a point of rolling into Gerald’s Bakery

(formerly Shawnigan Lake Bakery & Deli) [2769 Shawnigan Lake Road, 250.743.9226] for thechocolate orange bread pudding and maybe an apple tart. There are many things in this bakeryto tempt and lead you astray, so if it is not one of my things, you’ll find your own thing.

Back in Nanaimo, if you need a corn beef fix, head toNesvog’s Meat & Sausage Companyin Terminal Mall [Unit # 2, 1533 Estevan Road, Nanaimo 250.753.4248]. Their corn beef brisket

is brined overtemperature fostacked a milesandwich! Newith lamb, turkbow for the reAnd finally,Nanaimo, 2

the ChocolateA word of cauare the “what—by Su Grimm

THE TAfter anotherto say that thicouver Islandfood highlightHundred Deghad guests taBear’s Tuna Tcial guests fro(Comox) andcomers this yeaand Townshithe day.The week le

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THE OOKANAGAN EAT BUZZ CAFEThis July we Okanagians must sadly bid adieu to one of our greatest chefs. Michael Allemeier ofMission Hill Winery Terrace Restaurant fame will be moving back to Calgary to teach at SAIT.Michael has set a benchmark for all by being a strong advocate of eating locally and a dedicatedfriend to the farmer. His philosophy of implementing and promoting sustainably and seasonalcooking played a large part in taking our Valley’s food scene to another level. Thank you Michael– come back soon.The Green Room Restaurant has opened in downtown Kelowna. This charming eatery com-

plete with tree canopied patio was the brainchild of Nathan Flavel (GM) Randy Leslie (artistic di-rector), owners/creators of the super successful Kelowna Actors Studio. After offering an in housecatered meal with each theatre production, they decided to open up their own place where cus-tomers and theatre goers can hang out before and after the show. 101 - 1360 Ellis Street,www.kelownaactorsstudio.com


THE NANAIMOEAT BUZZ CAFE

www.kingfisherspa.com] hosts seafood buffets on July 10th & 24th, Aug 7th & 21st, and Sept 11th& 25th with Sunday Brunch every weekend.Mount Washington is hosting several big fun events this summer: the 10th Annual Beer Festi-

val (July 10); 11th Annual Alpine Wine Festival (Aug 7); and 2nd Alpine Food Festival (Sept 4-6).The latter features cooking classes, celebrity chefs, gala dinner, outdoor marketplace. FMI go towww.mountwashington.ca / 1.888.231.1499.Heriot Bay Inn [1.877.605.4545 /www.heriotbayinn.com] on Quadra Island is where Chef

Eric Dollar is doing great things. Well worth the trip just for the smoked scallop appetizer alone. I’m looking forward to visiting Angler's Dining Room at Dolphins Resort [4125 Discovery Drive

1-800-891-0287 / www.dolphinsresort.com]. Reservations recommended as it’s tiny and hasbeen described as the culinary jewel of Campbell River.—by Hans Peter Meyer

Friends refer to me as “The Urban Forager”. I have favourite spots I’ve ferreted out all over Van-couver Island for things. Lunch things. Dinner things. Spice things. Condiments things. Bread, meatand fish and fowl things. And then there is that classification called “What the hell will I do withthis thing?” I buy those things a lot. On any given day you can find me at a fav haunt for just onething. In Nanaimo, it’s Aladdin’s Café [67 Victoria Crescent, Nanaimo 250.716.1299]. Lentilsoup is the thing here. Real Lebanese vegan lentil soup. Dark, thick, rich, stoked to the brim witha mystic blend of spices imported from Lebanon. One bowl will fill you up for the whole day.Enjoy your soup with a Lebanese coffee. The coffee is strong, sweet and served in a Rakwa, thetraditional Lebanese single-serving coffee pot. You’ll have a caffeine rush for days and the orangewalls and 15-foot Aladdin will all seem to make sense. On Salt Spring Island, I immediately head for Rendezvous French Patisserie [126 – 4 Upper

Ganges Road, Salt Spring Island 250.537.8400] for a cannelé. You will need to get owners,Brigitte & Bruno Gonzales - she is from Normandy and he is from Bordeaux - to explain the leg-end behind this distinctive, chewy, pillowy, eggy, yummy confection. It’s all about Catholic nuns,tiny copper cups, egg yolks and charity fundraising. Brigitte also makes a chocolate meringuething called Incroyable. Again, there is a story, so ask and then indulge. For spice things, I have a cupboard packed to the brim with spices from Monsoon Coast. An-

drea LeBorgne is the new “spice girl” owner of Monsoon Coast. She bought the company fromlongtime spice guru, Doug Hall. Her products may be found in high-end specialty food outlets inBC and Alberta, at the Salt Spring Island Market or via her website www.monsooncoast.com. Herspice collections are like reading National Geographic, with mixtures from India, Africa, the Mid-dle East, the Caribbean and Pan Asia. She’ll be adding a line in summer 2009 for North Ameri-can BBQ aficionados to savour on their grilled things.When taking a swing through Shawnigan Lake I make a point of rolling into Gerald’s Bakery

(formerly Shawnigan Lake Bakery & Deli) [2769 Shawnigan Lake Road, 250.743.9226] for thechocolate orange bread pudding and maybe an apple tart. There are many things in this bakeryto tempt and lead you astray, so if it is not one of my things, you’ll find your own thing.

Back in Nanaimo, if you need a corn beef fix, head to Nesvog’s Meat & Sausage Companyin Terminal Mall [Unit # 2, 1533 Estevan Road, Nanaimo 250.753.4248]. Their corn beef brisket

is brined overnight in a trade-secret spice & sea salt recipe and then slow-cooked at a very lowtemperature for hours upon hours. The resulting brisket is luxuriously pull-apart savoury. Whenstacked a mile-high on good rye bread with hot mustard, oh baby, does that make a killer-greatsandwich! Nesvog’s also make all their sausages in-house and they are not afraid to be creativewith lamb, turkey, chicken, pork and bison. Be brave. BBQ outside your comfort zone and take abow for the resulting rave reviews. And finally, for all good kitchen things, you need to visit Flying Fish [180 Commercial StreetNanaimo, 250.754.2104]. Recently purchased (and then glugged directly from the bottle) was

the Chocolate Wine Sauce. Dark chocolate, agave nectar and BC red wine. What’s not to love?A word of caution when you enter this store…you will not leave without a few new things. Thoseare the “what the hell” things I mentioned earlier. Don’t say you were not warned! —by Su Grimmer

THE TOFINO EAT BUZZ CAFEAfter another successful Tofino Food and Wine Festival kicking off the start to summer, I haveto say that this year was an exceptionally outstanding showcase of local culinary talents, Van-couver Island purveyors and British Columbia wines (microbreweries and ciderhouse). Some of thefood highlights from Grazing In the Gardens include fresh baked breads by Jules Lomenda of SixHundred Degrees Bakery (Tofino) paired with Hilary’s Cheese from Cowichan Bay (‘Miele’had guests talking non stop), Fetch’s (Black Rock Hotel) Grilled BBQ Pork Sandwich, SpottedBear’s Tuna Tartar, The Pointe’s Sloping Hills Fennel and Chilli Banger and Sobo’s Ceviche. Spe-cial guests from North Island include Edgar and Mary Ann Smith of Natural Pastures Cheese(Comox) and Kathy & Victor McLaggan of Outlandish Shellfish Guild (Cortes Island). New-comers this year included Rockey Creek Winery (Cowichan Valley), Road 13 Vineyard (Oliver)and Township 7 (Langley). Take a look at the EAT website as we’ve p[osted a few photos fromthe day.The week leading up to the festival involves dining out at all of my local favourites (as I am so

busy preparing for the big weekend!); SoBo, Wildside Grill, Schooner Restaurant, SpottedBear Bistro, The Pointe Restaurant and Shelter Restaurant. All of these places will be in fullswing with fresh summer menus, for the summer season in Tofino.Tuff Beans is open Thursday – Sunday for family friendly Pizza Night (locals appreciation night

is Thursdays). Menu includes flatbread pizzas, soups, salads and paninis. A great place for peo-ple watching from the patio, Tuff Beans makes great coffee (Kicking Horse) as well. Located onthe corner of Campbell Street and Fourth Street. Green Soul Organics, Tofino’s health food store, located in the heart of downtown Tofino is

newly owned and operated by Morgan Callison (formerly Hungry Bear Naturals). Callison is car-rying as much local products as possible, from the west coast as well as the rest of Vancouver Is-land. Suppliers include Medicine Farm (greens, herbs), Nanoose Edibles (greens, herbs, organicproduce), Lori’s Farm (free range chicken products), Clayoqout Botanicals (herbal teas, herbaltinctures, herbal salves), Sea Wench Naturals (eco-friendly cleaning supplies, skin & beautyproducts). (Corner of Fourth Street and Campbell Street - across from Tuff Beans)Six Hundred Degrees Bakery, specializing in organic naturally leavened breads, uses fresh

milled and ground flour from La Boulange Bakery (692 Bennett Road Qualicum Beach 250 7520077), as well as sea salt from Antarctic Pure Sea Salt, provided by The Galthering Place, a smallfamily business, from Cortes Island, importing high end teas and sea salt. Six Hundred Degreesbread and other delicious baked goods can be found at Tofino’s Public Market (Saturdays in theVillage Green, 10am – 2pm), Green Soul Organics and Beaches Grocery. Over in Ucluelet, Norwoods Restaurant (1714 Peninsula 250 726 7001) is getting great re-

views, great BC wine list and many return guests. Ukee Dogs is also worth checking out for somehomemade meat pies and other great pastries, and of course a wide selection of gourmet dogs.(1576 Imperial Lane 250 726 2103) — by Kira Rogers

THE OOKKAANNAAGGAANN EAT BUZZ CAFEThis July we Okanagians must sadly bid adieu to one of our greatest chefs. Michael Allemeier ofMission Hill Winery Terrace Restaurant fame will be moving back to Calgary to teach at SAIT.Michael has set a benchmark for all by being a strong advocate of eating locally and a dedicatedfriend to the farmer. His philosophy of implementing and promoting sustainably and seasonalcooking played a large part in taking our Valley’s food scene to another level. Thank you Michael– come back soon.The Green Room Restaurant has opened in downtown Kelowna. This charming eatery com-

plete with tree canopied patio was the brainchild of Nathan Flavel (GM) Randy Leslie (artistic di-rector), owners/creators of the super successful Kelowna Actors Studio. After offering an in housecatered meal with each theatre production, they decided to open up their own place where cus-tomers and theatre goers can hang out before and after the show. 101 - 1360 Ellis Street,www.kelownaactorsstudio.com

Island-to-Island Shake Up The inaugural Island-to-Island Shake-up saw a coming together of 24 of theIsland’s premiere epicurean establish-ments to shake + stir their bestElephant Island cocktails.

The Grand Winner - "A Sweet Year",featured the '08 Crab Apple Wine andwas created by Solomon Seigel ofSolomons.

Best of Category winners are asfollows:Crab Apple: “Malus Malice”, ChrisJones, Aura at Laurel Point

Apricot Dessert Wine: “Orchard Time”,Solomon Seigel, Solomon’s

Cassis: “Capri Summer”, FatimaDaSilva, Bistro 161

Framboise: “Island Indulgence”,Shannon Brett, Chateau Victoria

www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 200940 EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2009

For dinner out, a family gathering, home parties or kicking back at the cabin, Tinhorn Creek has the wines for the occasion. � Our vineyards are located on two unique and diverse south Okanagan sites: the Golden Mile and the Black Sage bench. Our ability to blend the grapes from these vineyards and capture the best characteristics of each site sets us apart. � Visit our spectacular estate winery in Oliver, BC and experience for yourself.

NATURALLY SOUTH OKANAGANwww.tinhorn.com

DRESSED UP &READY TO GO!

Hester Creek Estate Winery and VillaWine Shop open daily at 10:00 amRoad #8, just South of Oliver, BCVilla Suites open from February to October. Phone: 250 498 4435 www.hestercreek.com

WE DO WHAT WE LOVE. YOU'LL LOVE WHAT WE DO.TRULY REMARKABLE

Reserve online at quailsgate.com 250-769-4451

OLD VINES RESTAURANT & PATIO11:30 am to 9 pm daily

Sunday Brunch 10:30 am to 2:30 pm

WINESHOP9:30 am to 7 pm - June to October

A Sense of Place.

Michael Burgess - Live in Concert!Thursday, August 6 - 7 pm

Visit www.selectyourtickets.com for ticketsProceeds to benefit The Central Okanagan Foundation

liquid assets

[ THEWINES ]

SPARKLINGNicolas Feuillatte Brut Reserve Partic-uliere NV, Champagne $60.00+

Very fresh with green apple and citrusflavours, good weight with a lovely nip ofacidity and a lively persistent mousse.Clean and crisp with some yeasty notes onthe finish that will keep you coming backfor more.

WHITESJoie Riesling 2008, Okanagan, $21.00-$23.00This is perhaps one of the best BC Ries-lings I tasted this year and let me tell youthis, my friends, I have tasted a lot of verygood Riesling over the last twelve months!Medium bodied and off-dry with a slightlyoily texture, juicy crisp acidity and a nose

brimming with exotic citrus, spice and honey aromas. Good weight and balance with in-tense fruit flavours and a long, long finish. Top-notch!

Mt. Boucherie Summit Reserve Ehrenfelser 06, Okanagan Valley $16.00 - $18.00This supple white from Kelowna is delicious with vibrant tropical fruit and floral aromas,lush concentrated fruit flavours and a slightly oily texture. Off-dry but perfectly balancedwith a juicy cut of bracing acidity. An excellent summer sipper at a great price! Veryhighly recommended.

Nik Weis Selection Urban Riesling 07, Germany, $21.00 - $23.00Explosive Riesling nose with floral and mineral nuances, full-bodied and slightly oily withfresh citrus and honey flavours and lip-smacking acidity. A lovely Mosel from a very goodproducer at a reasonable price, what more need be said?

Tinpot Hut Sauvignon Blanc 08, New Zealand, $20.00 - $22.00Tinpot Hut is pungent, full-flavoured and bursting with character! Ripe melon, green pep-per and flint nuances assail the nose and caress the palate. Well-balanced with goodweight and enough acidity to make your mouth water! Very tasty indeed.

Road 13 Old Vines Chenin Blanc 07, Okanagan Valley, $20.00 - $22.00This textbook Chenin Blanc from the South Okanagan is absolutely delicious! Off-dry with lovely balance and a delicate citrus-floral bouquet that delivers on thepalate. Very refreshing with subtle tropical fruit flavours and a rich core of zingy acidity.

PINKCroft Pink Port, Portugal, $26.00 - $28.00In the words of Evelyn Waugh “Port is not for the very young, the vain and the active. It isthe comfort of age and the companion of the scholar and the philosopher.” Amenbrother! But that was yesterday, mixed as a tall drink with a couple of ice cubes and asplash of soda puts paid to the philosophical approach. Delicious but potent with a“charm that invites excess!”

REDSCastano Monastrell 2006, Spain, $12.00 - $14.00In another time and place you might have found yourself squirting a long stream of thisrobust Spanish red into your mouth out of a goatskin bota. Inky black with dark berry,spice and mineral flavours, nicely balanced with some complexity, a firm tannic struc-ture and a long chewy finish! Leave the goatskin in the basement and try served in aglass! Excellent value.

SPIRITSIsland Spirits Distillery Phrog Gin, Hornby Island, $50.00+The quality of gin is often determined with a splash of vermouth and a good olive. Let mesay this about the Phrog! Waiter, another please! Very exotic indeed, with more than awhisper of coriander, cardamom and cumin seed on top of the standard mélange ofbotanicals. Tough to find but worth the effort! Bottoms up.

—by Larry Arnold

VALUEWINE

Local favorite Indian/Nepalese Restaurant, Everest, has added yet another dimension to itsrange of delicious fare. With its recent purchase by former Beijing Restaurateur Bina Qu, Everestwill now serve Chinese cuisine as well. Qu is bringing with her a high end chef from Beijing whowill be preparing the special Chinese menu. Everest’s former Indian food chef will be staying onto continue providing the fantastic Indian and Nepalese fare. Traditional Chinese breakfasts willalso be offered including Congee and Youtiao (chinese doughnuts). 573 Lawrence Avenue (250)762-7000.Naramata’s stunning vineyards and lake views are enough to draw any wine lover to the area,

but don’t forget there are wonderful venues to dine at as well. Lake Breeze Winery has a charm-ing patio restaurant tucked into their vineyard. With a fantastic menu to choose from, glorious viewsto soak up and award winning wines to sip the afternoon away – plan to get there early to snaf-fle a table. 930 Sammet Road Naramata, (250) 496-5619.The landmark Guishican House Restaurant has reopened in Kelowna after undergoing ren-

ovations. This beautiful heritage house and garden is open for lunch and dinner (Thursday throughSaturday) with Master Chef Georg Reider at the helm. Also available for catering: www.world-classcatering.com 1060 Cameron Avenue Kelowna (250) 862-9368.The upcoming first ever Okanagan Feast of Fields has created a huge buzz in our bustling Val-

ley. Hosted by Valentine Farms in Summerland – this is an event on August 23rd is not to bemissed. Guests will stroll from station to station sampling wine and food presented by their creators.The magical farm setting is the perfect opportunity to experience the Okanagan in its finest formwith its most important players on stage: the people who create our beloved food and wine andthe farmers, the often overlooked true heroes of the food and wine world. Valentine Farms is alsothe home of VinegarWorks where owners Kim Stansfield and John Gordon create delicious winevinegars from the organic fruits (and vines) of the labour. Get tickets through:www.ffcf.bc.ca/Okanagan-Feast —Jennifer Schell

Solomon Seigel with his winning cocktail A Sweet Year.

A SWEET YEARServes: 1

• 1 part Bourbon• 1 part Crabapple wine• 1 dash Rhubarb Bitters• Honey Lemon Foam (homemade)• Garnish With fresh grated cinnamon• Glass - old fashion

To make Honey lemon foam combine thefollowing in a half liter whip cream canisterand charge with NO2-4 egg whites• 4 oz honey• 2 oz lemon juice• 6 oz water

Stir bourbon, crabapple and bitters withice strain into old fashion glass and topwith foam and grate cinnamon over topand smile.

Gary H

ynes

Gary H

ynes

OOKKAANNAAGGAANN


liquid assets

[ THEWINES ]

SPARKLINGNicolas Feuillatte Brut Reserve Partic-uliere NV, Champagne $60.00+

Very fresh with green apple and citrusflavours, good weight with a lovely nip ofacidity and a lively persistent mousse.Clean and crisp with some yeasty notes onthe finish that will keep you coming backfor more.

WHITESJoie Riesling 2008, Okanagan, $21.00-$23.00This is perhaps one of the best BC Ries-lings I tasted this year and let me tell youthis, my friends, I have tasted a lot of verygood Riesling over the last twelve months!Medium bodied and off-dry with a slightlyoily texture, juicy crisp acidity and a nose

brimming with exotic citrus, spice and honey aromas. Good weight and balance with in-tense fruit flavours and a long, long finish. Top-notch!

Mt. Boucherie Summit Reserve Ehrenfelser 06, Okanagan Valley $16.00 - $18.00This supple white from Kelowna is delicious with vibrant tropical fruit and floral aromas,lush concentrated fruit flavours and a slightly oily texture. Off-dry but perfectly balancedwith a juicy cut of bracing acidity. An excellent summer sipper at a great price! Veryhighly recommended.

Nik Weis Selection Urban Riesling 07, Germany, $21.00 - $23.00Explosive Riesling nose with floral and mineral nuances, full-bodied and slightly oily withfresh citrus and honey flavours and lip-smacking acidity. A lovely Mosel from a very goodproducer at a reasonable price, what more need be said?

Tinpot Hut Sauvignon Blanc 08, New Zealand, $20.00 - $22.00Tinpot Hut is pungent, full-flavoured and bursting with character! Ripe melon, green pep-per and flint nuances assail the nose and caress the palate. Well-balanced with goodweight and enough acidity to make your mouth water! Very tasty indeed.

Road 13 Old Vines Chenin Blanc 07, Okanagan Valley, $20.00 - $22.00This textbook Chenin Blanc from the South Okanagan is absolutely delicious! Off-dry with lovely balance and a delicate citrus-floral bouquet that delivers on thepalate. Very refreshing with subtle tropical fruit flavours and a rich core of zingy acidity.

PINKCroft Pink Port, Portugal, $26.00 - $28.00In the words of Evelyn Waugh “Port is not for the very young, the vain and the active. It isthe comfort of age and the companion of the scholar and the philosopher.” Amenbrother! But that was yesterday, mixed as a tall drink with a couple of ice cubes and asplash of soda puts paid to the philosophical approach. Delicious but potent with a“charm that invites excess!”

REDSCastano Monastrell 2006, Spain, $12.00 - $14.00In another time and place you might have found yourself squirting a long stream of thisrobust Spanish red into your mouth out of a goatskin bota. Inky black with dark berry,spice and mineral flavours, nicely balanced with some complexity, a firm tannic struc-ture and a long chewy finish! Leave the goatskin in the basement and try served in aglass! Excellent value.

SPIRITSIsland Spirits Distillery Phrog Gin, Hornby Island, $50.00+The quality of gin is often determined with a splash of vermouth and a good olive. Let mesay this about the Phrog! Waiter, another please! Very exotic indeed, with more than awhisper of coriander, cardamom and cumin seed on top of the standard mélange ofbotanicals. Tough to find but worth the effort! Bottoms up.

—by Larry Arnold

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VALUEWINE

Local favorite Indian/Nepalese Restaurant, Everest, has added yet another dimension to itsrange of delicious fare. With its recent purchase by former Beijing Restaurateur Bina Qu, Everestwill now serve Chinese cuisine as well. Qu is bringing with her a high end chef from Beijing whowill be preparing the special Chinese menu. Everest’s former Indian food chef will be staying onto continue providing the fantastic Indian and Nepalese fare. Traditional Chinese breakfasts willalso be offered including Congee and Youtiao (chinese doughnuts). 573 Lawrence Avenue (250)762-7000.Naramata’s stunning vineyards and lake views are enough to draw any wine lover to the area,

but don’t forget there are wonderful venues to dine at as well. Lake Breeze Winery has a charm-ing patio restaurant tucked into their vineyard. With a fantastic menu to choose from, glorious viewsto soak up and award winning wines to sip the afternoon away – plan to get there early to snaf-fle a table. 930 Sammet Road Naramata, (250) 496-5619.The landmark Guishican House Restaurant has reopened in Kelowna after undergoing ren-

ovations. This beautiful heritage house and garden is open for lunch and dinner (Thursday throughSaturday) with Master Chef Georg Reider at the helm. Also available for catering: www.world-classcatering.com 1060 Cameron Avenue Kelowna (250) 862-9368.The upcoming first ever Okanagan Feast of Fields has created a huge buzz in our bustling Val-

ley. Hosted by Valentine Farms in Summerland – this is an event on August 23rd is not to bemissed. Guests will stroll from station to station sampling wine and food presented by their creators.The magical farm setting is the perfect opportunity to experience the Okanagan in its finest formwith its most important players on stage: the people who create our beloved food and wine andthe farmers, the often overlooked true heroes of the food and wine world. Valentine Farms is alsothe home of VinegarWorks where owners Kim Stansfield and John Gordon create delicious winevinegars from the organic fruits (and vines) of the labour. Get tickets through:www.ffcf.bc.ca/Okanagan-Feast —Jennifer Schell

Solomon Seigel with his winning cocktail A Sweet Year.

A SWEET YEARServes: 1

• 1 part Bourbon• 1 part Crabapple wine• 1 dash Rhubarb Bitters• Honey Lemon Foam (homemade)• Garnish With fresh grated cinnamon• Glass - old fashion

To make Honey lemon foam combine thefollowing in a half liter whip cream canisterand charge with NO2-4 egg whites• 4 oz honey• 2 oz lemon juice• 6 oz water

Stir bourbon, crabapple and bitters withice strain into old fashion glass and topwith foam and grate cinnamon over topand smile.

Gary H

ynes

Gary H

ynes


Open 7 days a week

5325 Cordova Bay Rd.250-658-3116

Our service can best be described as“Knowledgeable,yet not pretentious……approachable,

with a hint of sass!”

FROM OUR BACKYARD TO YOUR BACKYARD

a tMATTICK’S FARM

www.matticksfarm.com

VVQQAA WWiinnee SShhoopp…Enjoy BC Wines this summer

1715 Government [email protected]

Dinner 5:30 - 11 pmTuesday to Saturday

IN WINE YEARS, VANCOUVER ISLANDand Gulf Islands vineyards are still intheir infancy. Though grapes have beengrown here and wine made commer-cially in these Designated ViticulturalArea (DVA) appellations since the late1980s and early ’90s, much about theland and climate is still being discov-ered. What has been quite clearly es-tablished, though, is that this is aregion best suited to cooler-climate va-rietals, and, for the most part, thateliminates Cabernet Sauvignon, Mer-lot, Syrah and other black grapes thatthrive in hot weather and ripen late inthe season. But that doesn’t mean great red

wines aren’t made here. Pinot Noirdoes wonderfully in the warmth of theCowichan Valley, and early-ripening hy-brids such as Marechal Foch have alsobeen grown to make big, fruit-forwardreds of great stature. Some vintnersare even having success with Merlot.Latitude-wise, the islands are

roughly in line with northern Franceand central Germany. Not surprisingly,many of the varietals that have thus farthrived here—Pinot Gris, Bacchus, Or-tega, Siegerrebe, Muller-Thurgau,Pinot Noir, Pinot Auxerrois andGewürztraminer—are from, or arecrosses of grapes from, that area.There’s also much potential for making high-quality sparkling wine, which, depending onthe style, doesn’t necessarily mean that grapes have to attain the same level of ripenessas table wine.There are challenges here, and limitations, too, but for winemakers willing to take ad-

vantage of the positives—mild winters, proper soil and warm summers—wine that reflectsthe true character of this region, its terroir, can be made. Here, then, is the first in a seriesof six articles, each one looking at a winery that relies largely on estate-grown grapes. Eachof these wineries is discovering, and perhaps establishing, the true taste of Vancouver Is-land and Gulf Islands wine.

Alderlea Vineyards Sitting on the porch of what was once an old barn but now houses Alderlea Vineyards’

small, simple tasting room and winemaking facility, you can pretty much see all the factorsthat conspire to make its wines consistently good. There is a gentle slope to this south-fac-ing Cowichan Valley property, providing proper drainage for the eight acres of vines that sur-round the building. Off to the southeast, you can see Mount Tzuhalem, a 536-metre sentinelthat helps protect the vineyard from cool marine air from the Strait of Georgia. And evenon a cloudy spring morning, with the bright-green buds of new growth just starting to eruptalong the rough-looking vines, it’s still easy to imagine the copious amount of sunshine thegrapes will soak up in the long summer days.

Island Wine on Island TimeThis first in a series of six articles on Vancouver Island wineriesexplores Alderlea Vineyards—still young but growing up fast.—by Adem Tepedelen

WINEMAKER ROGER DOSMAN AT THE TOFINO FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL

Alderlea is owned and run by winemaker Roger Dosman and his wife, Nancy. It’s a smalloperation that produces, at maximum capacity, about 2,000 cases of estate-grown wine ina good year. That means that every drop of wine that leaves this 10-acre farm, just north-east of the town of Duncan, came from the grapes nurtured and tended by the Dosmans.They need only step out of the back door of their house positioned at the front of the prop-erty by the road to see the entirety of their vineyard stretching up the hill.They bought the property and cleared the trees off in 1992, let the land rest for the whole

of 1993 and then planted their first vines, some Bacchus, in 1994. Subsequent years sawplantings of Auxerrois, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Marechal Foch, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay,Merlot and “all kinds of silly stuff,” according to Roger. “We’ve probably planted 30 or 40varieties over the years, just to see what works and what doesn’t.”Not surprisingly, 10 vintages later, he’s still trying, to some degree, to figure that out.

Though much of the “silly stuff” has since been pulled, in a normal year Dosman will bot-tle up to 10 different wines. The whites include Bacchus, a Chardonnay/Auxerrois blend,Pinot Gris and occasionally Gewürztraminer and Viognier. The reds make up more than halfof his production and include two Pinot Noirs (a reserve and “regular”), Merlot, Clarinet(Marechal Foch), Heritage Hearth (port-style) and their newest release, Fusion, made froma Cabernet Sauvignon/Marechal Foch hybrid created by Swiss plant breeder Valentin Blat-tner.Dosman started experimenting with 10 different Blattner hybrids eight years ago—mostly

reds—and thinks that they might well be the future of red wine on Vancouver Island andthe Gulf Islands. “Not only do they make great wine,” he says, “but they are also very re-sistant to diseases like powdery mildew and botrytis. Most of the [Blattner hybrids] havea Cabernet Sauvignon base, which is why they produce more of a warmer climate-struc-tured wine. Here you have this big, fat, juicy, well-structured, really nice-tannined winefrom a cool climate.”In a cool-climate region like Vancouver Island, winemakers have to be more tuned into

what the land, the weather and the climate will let them do. Yes, their options may be morelimited, but winemakers like Dosman, who accept and acknowledge this, instead of tryingto defy it, are learning that some truly remarkable wines can be made here. And in thosewines—whether they are Pinot Gris or Marechal Foch—the true taste, the terroir, of the is-land will reveal itself, something Dosman is already seeing in his own vineyard. “I can saythat after 10 vintages there seems to be something here through all different weather pat-terns and seasons,” he says. “I think through all of our reds there’s a vein of an allspicecharacter. Most are grown up in the lighter gravely soils, and there’s an absolute charac-ter of wine there. Not only from year to year, but from wine to wine. Certainly Pinot Noir andMerlot have different flavours from the Foch, but there is a flavour, that’s almost a struc-ture, that’s quite unique to us.”

Best vintages: 2000, 2002-2007 (with 2006 a particular standout)Tasting room hours: Sat.-Sun. 1-5 p.m., March, April, September and December. It can de-pend on product availability, so call ahead to confirm they’ll be open.Web: N/A Phone: 250-746-7122 Address: 1751 Stamps Rd., Duncan, B.C. V9L 5W2

Gary H

ynes


IN WINE YEARS, VANCOUVER ISLANDand Gulf Islands vineyards are still intheir infancy. Though grapes have beengrown here and wine made commer-cially in these Designated ViticulturalArea (DVA) appellations since the late1980s and early ’90s, much about theland and climate is still being discov-ered. What has been quite clearly es-tablished, though, is that this is aregion best suited to cooler-climate va-rietals, and, for the most part, thateliminates Cabernet Sauvignon, Mer-lot, Syrah and other black grapes thatthrive in hot weather and ripen late inthe season. But that doesn’t mean great red

wines aren’t made here. Pinot Noirdoes wonderfully in the warmth of theCowichan Valley, and early-ripening hy-brids such as Marechal Foch have alsobeen grown to make big, fruit-forwardreds of great stature. Some vintnersare even having success with Merlot.Latitude-wise, the islands are

roughly in line with northern Franceand central Germany. Not surprisingly,many of the varietals that have thus farthrived here—Pinot Gris, Bacchus, Or-tega, Siegerrebe, Muller-Thurgau,Pinot Noir, Pinot Auxerrois andGewürztraminer—are from, or arecrosses of grapes from, that area.There’s also much potential for making high-quality sparkling wine, which, depending onthe style, doesn’t necessarily mean that grapes have to attain the same level of ripenessas table wine.There are challenges here, and limitations, too, but for winemakers willing to take ad-

vantage of the positives—mild winters, proper soil and warm summers—wine that reflectsthe true character of this region, its terroir, can be made. Here, then, is the first in a seriesof six articles, each one looking at a winery that relies largely on estate-grown grapes. Eachof these wineries is discovering, and perhaps establishing, the true taste of Vancouver Is-land and Gulf Islands wine.

Alderlea Vineyards Sitting on the porch of what was once an old barn but now houses Alderlea Vineyards’

small, simple tasting room and winemaking facility, you can pretty much see all the factorsthat conspire to make its wines consistently good. There is a gentle slope to this south-fac-ing Cowichan Valley property, providing proper drainage for the eight acres of vines that sur-round the building. Off to the southeast, you can see Mount Tzuhalem, a 536-metre sentinelthat helps protect the vineyard from cool marine air from the Strait of Georgia. And evenon a cloudy spring morning, with the bright-green buds of new growth just starting to eruptalong the rough-looking vines, it’s still easy to imagine the copious amount of sunshine thegrapes will soak up in the long summer days.

Island Wine on Island TimeThis first in a series of six articles on Vancouver Island wineriesexplores Alderlea Vineyards—still young but growing up fast.—by Adem Tepedelen

WINEMAKER ROGER DOSMAN AT THE TOFINO FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL

Alderlea is owned and run by winemaker Roger Dosman and his wife, Nancy. It’s a smalloperation that produces, at maximum capacity, about 2,000 cases of estate-grown wine ina good year. That means that every drop of wine that leaves this 10-acre farm, just north-east of the town of Duncan, came from the grapes nurtured and tended by the Dosmans.They need only step out of the back door of their house positioned at the front of the prop-erty by the road to see the entirety of their vineyard stretching up the hill.They bought the property and cleared the trees off in 1992, let the land rest for the whole

of 1993 and then planted their first vines, some Bacchus, in 1994. Subsequent years sawplantings of Auxerrois, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Marechal Foch, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay,Merlot and “all kinds of silly stuff,” according to Roger. “We’ve probably planted 30 or 40varieties over the years, just to see what works and what doesn’t.”Not surprisingly, 10 vintages later, he’s still trying, to some degree, to figure that out.

Though much of the “silly stuff” has since been pulled, in a normal year Dosman will bot-tle up to 10 different wines. The whites include Bacchus, a Chardonnay/Auxerrois blend,Pinot Gris and occasionally Gewürztraminer and Viognier. The reds make up more than halfof his production and include two Pinot Noirs (a reserve and “regular”), Merlot, Clarinet(Marechal Foch), Heritage Hearth (port-style) and their newest release, Fusion, made froma Cabernet Sauvignon/Marechal Foch hybrid created by Swiss plant breeder Valentin Blat-tner.Dosman started experimenting with 10 different Blattner hybrids eight years ago—mostly

reds—and thinks that they might well be the future of red wine on Vancouver Island andthe Gulf Islands. “Not only do they make great wine,” he says, “but they are also very re-sistant to diseases like powdery mildew and botrytis. Most of the [Blattner hybrids] havea Cabernet Sauvignon base, which is why they produce more of a warmer climate-struc-tured wine. Here you have this big, fat, juicy, well-structured, really nice-tannined winefrom a cool climate.”In a cool-climate region like Vancouver Island, winemakers have to be more tuned into

what the land, the weather and the climate will let them do. Yes, their options may be morelimited, but winemakers like Dosman, who accept and acknowledge this, instead of tryingto defy it, are learning that some truly remarkable wines can be made here. And in thosewines—whether they are Pinot Gris or Marechal Foch—the true taste, the terroir, of the is-land will reveal itself, something Dosman is already seeing in his own vineyard. “I can saythat after 10 vintages there seems to be something here through all different weather pat-terns and seasons,” he says. “I think through all of our reds there’s a vein of an allspicecharacter. Most are grown up in the lighter gravely soils, and there’s an absolute charac-ter of wine there. Not only from year to year, but from wine to wine. Certainly Pinot Noir andMerlot have different flavours from the Foch, but there is a flavour, that’s almost a struc-ture, that’s quite unique to us.”

Best vintages: 2000, 2002-2007 (with 2006 a particular standout)Tasting room hours: Sat.-Sun. 1-5 p.m., March, April, September and December. It can de-pend on product availability, so call ahead to confirm they’ll be open.Web: N/A Phone: 250-746-7122 Address: 1751 Stamps Rd., Duncan, B.C. V9L 5W2

919 Douglas Street Victoria BC 250.370.WINE (9463)www.strathliquor.com

Ales Wines & SpiritsFrom around the world

Value brands to classics

Open 7 days 10 am to 11 pmFree delivery on case orders

Chilled Wines & Beers

Downtown VictoriaFeaturing an extensive

collection from the Wineriesand Micro Breweries of

Victoria and Vancouver Island

Gary H

ynes

EAT to go

ONLINE FOOD & DRINK GUIDEwww.eatmagazine.ca/marketplace

follow us attwitter.com/EatMagazine


SUMMER HAS A WAY OF TURNING US INTO DIFFERENT CREATURES. For a few glorious weeks, we are no longer hud-dled indoors as dinner simmers slowly on a hot stove. Predictability and routine give way to spontaneity as we comeup with creative ways to enjoy every minute of sunshine. Eating outdoors is the ultimate tribute to the good weather.Fresh local ingredients and an abundance of fruit and vegetables inspire us to eat lighter. Naturally, our drinking habitschange as well. While we enjoy all styles of wine year round, the hot days and balmy evenings call for something freshand crisp. We tend to bypass big robust reds in favour of lively vibrant whites that are often lower in alcohol. Even ourbehaviour is affected. These wines invigorate rather than slow us down, awakening our adventurous spirit.At the first flush of warmer days we reach for a bottle of rosé, a return to our perennial summer lover. It is a symbol

of sunshine and our go-to wine accompaniment with the endless parade of salads that grace our table. Be brazenand choose rosé as your escort to a beach gathering. The volleyball net is pitched and bocce balls are flying. Every-one is feeling playful and working up a hunger. The barbecue gets fired up and is soon sizzling with an array of juicyprotein. Rather than transitioning from white to red, switch to pink when dusk begins to fall. Being slightly fuller bod-ied than most whites, it can stand up to more robust fare. Salmon, tuna, chicken and pork—rosé will complementthem all and simultaneously charm the ravenous mob. Our coup de coeur this summer is the Domaine du Bosc Rosé.Dangerously drinkable, it may even inspire you to introduce yourself to that intriguing stranger who has been staringat you through the smoke.Nostalgic for summers past, you might be tempted to rekindle the romance with Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio.

Both are worthy warm weather sippers, if conventional. This summer make a pact to venture into the unknown. Theworld of thirst-quenching wines offers plenty of diversity. For whites, Grüner Veltliner, Vinho Verde and Friulano are justa few routes to explore. A first encounter with something (or someone) new deserves a bit of ceremony. Perhaps a romantic dinner date on

the patio. What could be more sophisticated than a Grüner Veltliner from Austria to add to the ambience? Chic and el-egant yet well priced, Grüner Veltliner marries well with spicy ceviche made from fresh local fish as well as disheswith an Asian influence. Dry with a slightly peppery character, Grüner’s vibrant acidity balances the explosion of gen-erous citrus fruit. Schloss Gobelsberg is a great introduction. Chenin Blanc is equally classy and encountered in thewhites of France’s Loire Valley like the Cave de Saumur ‘Les Pouches’. Trust Australia to offer an interesting twist onChenin Blanc where it is blended with Sémillon in the Kalleske, Clarry’s Barossa White. An unusual match by traditionalstandards, but when these two grapes meet, fireworks erupt. This summer tryst is heating up.A weekend getaway looks very promising as you leave the city in a convertible with the top down. If you stop for a

picnic lunch, make it long and leisurely. Lounging on a blanket with your favourite book and new friend is truly heaven,especially when you have a delicious tipple to accompany a few snacks. Vinho Verde is the perfect candidate to en-hance this romantic escapade. Zippy, slightly effervescent with vivacious flavours of lime and lemon, it will work likea charm with a fresh Greek salad. This thirst-quenching gem hails from Portugal and most examples are very afford-able. Try the Azul Portugal at $15 or, if you really want to impress, the Touquinheiras for $34. Off the beaten track, winescan measure your prospective mate’s sense of adventure. Test them Italian-style, pouring the Poggiobello Friulano fromFriuli with prosciutto. Or try something completely different like the Casalone Cortese from Piemonte with pickledherring. It’s your summer fling; you have nothing to lose.If you haven’t scared your date away yet, you’ll still have a hiking companion the next day. After an exhausting trek

and a swim to cool down, canoodle by the campfire with a glass of red. There is nothing more appropriate in the sum-

— By Michaela Morris and Michelle Bouffard

mer than the spicy reds from the South of France. Slightlychilled, Château Ollieux Romanis ‘Cuvée Alice’ from Corbièresis simply marvellous with grilled sausages. The concept of chill-ing a red may seem a bit odd. We are not suggesting you chill itfor hours. Rather put the bottle in the cooler for 20 minutes orso. Lighter reds such as Dolcetto, Valpolicella, Beaujolais,Gamay and Pinot Noir are the best candidates. These cheerfulreds are also great mates with meatier grilled fish like salmonand tuna.Long after your fleeting getaway has ended, you may continue

to cool down those summer reds. And some of the newly dis-covered grape varieties could become staples in your repertoire.You may kiss many frogs until you find your prince. We have ac-tually found quite a few. Luckily, we don’t have to limit ourselvesto one when it comes to wine. Some of our flings have becomeyear-round favourites.

WINE

& TER

ROIR

Summer FlingThe long, warm days of summer are perfect

for romancing some new wines.

T a s t i n g N o t e s Whites2007 Azul Portugal, Vinho Verde, Portugal, $15.00*Made from two indigenous Portuguese grapes, Arinto and Trajadura, Azul’s Vinho Verde isthe ultimate summer wine. It’s piercing acidity and the exotic combo of peach and limeflavours screams for seafood ceviche. Great value!

2008 Storks’ Tower, Vino de la Tierra Castilla y León, Spain, $14.99A nice twist on your typical summer Sauvignon Blanc, Storks’ Tower includes some Verdejoto add personality. Fresh-cut grass and lime aromas lead to an explosion of citrus on thepalate. A fantastic match for summer salads.

2007 Casalone, Cortese, Piemonte DOC, Italy, $17.00*While Cortese can be bland, this is not the case here. Casalone is one of the most characterfulfinds of the summer. Pronounced aromas of pine and lemon balm strangely bring you toGreece rather than Italy. A great match with feta cheese sprinkled lightly with rosemary andolive oil.

2006 Château Megyer, Dry Furmint, Hungary, $22.00*This is your risqué summer fling that could turn into an unexpectedly deep love affair. Fur-mint is a charming Hungarian grape that beguiles the palate. Beautiful expressive aromasand flavours of musk, orange and white flowers don’t require food to be enjoyed, but it’s agreat match with a spinach mandarin salad.

2007 Poggiobello, Friulano, Colli Orientali del Friuli, Italy, $24.99Even though Friulano is the most planted white grape in Friuli, Italy, we seldom see it on ourshelves. Poggiobello exudes all the charm of Friulano. Delicious apple, pear and honeyednotes are balanced by good acidity and a slight bitterness. Juicy and elegant, it marries wellwith seafood dishes.

2006 Kalleske, Clarry’s Barossa White, Barossa Valley, Australia, $29.00*(50 percent Sémillon, 50 percent Chenin Blanc) It looks like Sémillon has found a fantasticpartner; the two grapes blend like a charm. Intense and concentrated aromas of lanolin,honeyed lime and grapefruit repeat on the palate. With 12.5 percent alcohol, this is testi-mony that Aussie whites can be refreshing.

Rosés2008 Morandé ‘Pionero’ Central Valley, Chile, $14.00*A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, Morandé ‘Pionero’ is the wine to have when you’reseeking a fuller wine but still want something cold. Pronounced wild strawberries, water-melon and blood orange notes call for bouillabaisse, paella or any garlic-dominated seafooddish. Fantastic value.

2007 Domaine du Bosc Rosé, Vin de Pays d’Oc, France, $20.00*Fresh flavours of rhubarb and grapefruit linger on your palate and make the perfect aperitif.Be a great neighbour and invite the folks next door to share this pleasure over a plate ofcured meat and cheese. Beware; it’s way too easy to drink, so make sure you have a secondbottle on hand!

Reds2006 Château Ollieux Romanis ‘Cuvée Alice’ Corbières AOC, France, $17.00*Southern French wines are a must for the cooler summer nights. This Corbières’ floral noselured us into considering a fling and we weren’t disappointed. Here you find classic driedherbs and raspberry flavours typical of the area. Very well-priced, indeed!

2007 Blue Mountain, Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, BC, $24.90*Vibrant fresh and pure aromas of cherry with pleasant truffly earthy notes. Great concen-tration of flavours. Wow! This could be the best Pinot Noir Blue Mountain has ever made. Itscrunchy red fruit will work like a charm with salmon in a strawberry sauce. Very Burgundianin style.

Other finds worth having a fling with:

Whites2007 Cave de Saumur ‘Les Pouches’ Saumur AOC, France, $18.752007 Domaine Schloss Gobelsberg, Grüner Veltliner, Austria, $19.992007 Leon Manbach, Alsace, France (65 percent Sylvaner, 35 percent Pinot Blanc), $20.00* 2007 Lingenfelger, Riesling Kabinett, Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel, Pfalz, Germany $22.992006 Rutherglen Estates ‘The Alliance’ Victoria, Australia, (70 percent Marsanne, 30 percentViognier), $24.00*

Rosés2007 Collavini, Villa Canlungo ‘Corno Rosazzo’ Venezia Giulia IGT, Italy $19.99

*Wines available at private wine stores only. Prices may vary.

Gary H

ynes


mer than the spicy reds from the South of France. Slightlychilled, Château Ollieux Romanis ‘Cuvée Alice’ from Corbièresis simply marvellous with grilled sausages. The concept of chill-ing a red may seem a bit odd. We are not suggesting you chill itfor hours. Rather put the bottle in the cooler for 20 minutes orso. Lighter reds such as Dolcetto, Valpolicella, Beaujolais,Gamay and Pinot Noir are the best candidates. These cheerfulreds are also great mates with meatier grilled fish like salmonand tuna.Long after your fleeting getaway has ended, you may continue

to cool down those summer reds. And some of the newly dis-covered grape varieties could become staples in your repertoire.You may kiss many frogs until you find your prince. We have ac-tually found quite a few. Luckily, we don’t have to limit ourselvesto one when it comes to wine. Some of our flings have becomeyear-round favourites.

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T a s t i n g N o t e s Whites2007 Azul Portugal, Vinho Verde, Portugal, $15.00*Made from two indigenous Portuguese grapes, Arinto and Trajadura, Azul’s Vinho Verde isthe ultimate summer wine. It’s piercing acidity and the exotic combo of peach and limeflavours screams for seafood ceviche. Great value!

2008 Storks’ Tower, Vino de la Tierra Castilla y León, Spain, $14.99A nice twist on your typical summer Sauvignon Blanc, Storks’ Tower includes some Verdejoto add personality. Fresh-cut grass and lime aromas lead to an explosion of citrus on thepalate. A fantastic match for summer salads.

2007 Casalone, Cortese, Piemonte DOC, Italy, $17.00*While Cortese can be bland, this is not the case here. Casalone is one of the most characterfulfinds of the summer. Pronounced aromas of pine and lemon balm strangely bring you toGreece rather than Italy. A great match with feta cheese sprinkled lightly with rosemary andolive oil.

2006 Château Megyer, Dry Furmint, Hungary, $22.00*This is your risqué summer fling that could turn into an unexpectedly deep love affair. Fur-mint is a charming Hungarian grape that beguiles the palate. Beautiful expressive aromasand flavours of musk, orange and white flowers don’t require food to be enjoyed, but it’s agreat match with a spinach mandarin salad.

2007 Poggiobello, Friulano, Colli Orientali del Friuli, Italy, $24.99Even though Friulano is the most planted white grape in Friuli, Italy, we seldom see it on ourshelves. Poggiobello exudes all the charm of Friulano. Delicious apple, pear and honeyednotes are balanced by good acidity and a slight bitterness. Juicy and elegant, it marries wellwith seafood dishes.

2006 Kalleske, Clarry’s Barossa White, Barossa Valley, Australia, $29.00*(50 percent Sémillon, 50 percent Chenin Blanc) It looks like Sémillon has found a fantasticpartner; the two grapes blend like a charm. Intense and concentrated aromas of lanolin,honeyed lime and grapefruit repeat on the palate. With 12.5 percent alcohol, this is testi-mony that Aussie whites can be refreshing.

Rosés2008 Morandé ‘Pionero’ Central Valley, Chile, $14.00*A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, Morandé ‘Pionero’ is the wine to have when you’reseeking a fuller wine but still want something cold. Pronounced wild strawberries, water-melon and blood orange notes call for bouillabaisse, paella or any garlic-dominated seafooddish. Fantastic value.

2007 Domaine du Bosc Rosé, Vin de Pays d’Oc, France, $20.00*Fresh flavours of rhubarb and grapefruit linger on your palate and make the perfect aperitif.Be a great neighbour and invite the folks next door to share this pleasure over a plate ofcured meat and cheese. Beware; it’s way too easy to drink, so make sure you have a secondbottle on hand!

Reds2006 Château Ollieux Romanis ‘Cuvée Alice’ Corbières AOC, France, $17.00*Southern French wines are a must for the cooler summer nights. This Corbières’ floral noselured us into considering a fling and we weren’t disappointed. Here you find classic driedherbs and raspberry flavours typical of the area. Very well-priced, indeed!

2007 Blue Mountain, Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, BC, $24.90*Vibrant fresh and pure aromas of cherry with pleasant truffly earthy notes. Great concen-tration of flavours. Wow! This could be the best Pinot Noir Blue Mountain has ever made. Itscrunchy red fruit will work like a charm with salmon in a strawberry sauce. Very Burgundianin style.

Other finds worth having a fling with:

Whites2007 Cave de Saumur ‘Les Pouches’ Saumur AOC, France, $18.752007 Domaine Schloss Gobelsberg, Grüner Veltliner, Austria, $19.992007 Leon Manbach, Alsace, France (65 percent Sylvaner, 35 percent Pinot Blanc), $20.00* 2007 Lingenfelger, Riesling Kabinett, Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel, Pfalz, Germany $22.992006 Rutherglen Estates ‘The Alliance’ Victoria, Australia, (70 percent Marsanne, 30 percentViognier), $24.00*

Rosés2007 Collavini, Villa Canlungo ‘Corno Rosazzo’ Venezia Giulia IGT, Italy $19.99

*Wines available at private wine stores only. Prices may vary.

Gary H

ynes


HAUTE CUISINE 1210 Broad St., 250.388.9906

Wine needs to breathe.Vinturi delivers perfect aeration

in the time it takes to pour a glass.The original wine aerator.

New!Introducing Vinturi for White Wine!

VINTURI WINE AERATOR

Mix lemon zest, sugar andalcohol, add time and patience.Enjoy. — by Murray Bancroft

AS HOME-BOUND EPICUREScontinue their quest for all thingshomemade (think cured biody-namic heritage pork cheek) orthe next big drink (the “modern”old-fashioned), Limoncelloseems to have it all—history andauthenticity with working classroots, praise from chefs fromBatali to Oliver and, best of all, ahigh percentage of alcohol. Thelemon liqueur secured its celebstatus when Danny DeVitoshowed up drunk for a taping ofThe View, blaming the “lastseven Limoncellos” he con-sumed following a boozy lunchwith pal George Clooney.Thought to have originated

somewhere in the Amalfi Coastregion of Italy in the early 20thcentury, Limoncello has beengetting some ice time in fashion-able restaurants on both sides ofthe Atlantic as ingredient, cock-tail and digestivo (althoughhopefully not all in one sitting).The do-it-yourself version allowsyou to adjust the sweetnesslevel to suit your palate (I opt forless sweet—just enough to cutsome of the sting). Warning: Pa-tience is paramount here. Thelemon zest must infuse for twomonths. Start now for latesummer sipping.

Homemade Limoncello• 15-20 organic lemons• 2 750 ml bottles vodka • 1 cup simple syrup (add 1 cup sugar to 1 cupwater and boil 5-10 minutes until slight thick-ening occurs, let cool)

Start by washing and drying the lemons. Then,using a sharp knife, shave thin slices of lemonzest, trying not to get the white pith as well. Ifyou do, cut again to remove white pith or it willimpart a bitter flavour. Add to a clean jar witha tight-fitting lid (I use large-format olive jars.You may need to ask your favourite chef orbartender to keep one for you) and top withvodka. The lemon zest should be completelysubmerged in vodka. Put on lid and store incool dark place for two months. After two months, strain, discard lemon

peels and put liquid back in glass jar. Mix inyour simple syrup. Add more or less to taste.Mix well, cover with lid and store in cool placeagain for 2-4 weeks at which point you can putinto bottles and store in the freezer.Ready in two to three months, you’d best get

this project on the go. Here are three ways toadmire your own handiwork, before, duringand after a meal with friends.

Before: Limoncello Fizz • 2 oz Limoncello• Half a lime, juiced• 1 Tbsp simple syrup• Soda water

In a cocktail shaker or large glass, shakeLimoncello, lime juice and simple syrup overice. Strain liquid into another glass and topwith soda water.Even harder than the other leading brand, thislemonade packs a punch. Try setting yourfriends up for your next bocce ball tourneywith a few of these refreshments. In fact, makethose doubles and maybe you’ll win. Try asoda siphon with reusable CO2 cartridges andsave valuable space in your recycling bin.Serve some citrus-coated pistachios (availableat your closest Persian market) and yourfriends may never leave.

During: Prosecco Cocktail • 1 oz Limoncello• 2 oz blood orange juice (or other orangejuice)• Prosecco

Mix Limoncello with orange juice and top withprosecco. This refreshing change from a mi-mosa or bellini can be served up as a cocktailor with a first course of crostini with Dunge-ness crab, lemon, mint and chili.

After: Straight Up and ChilledWhen it’s time to cap off that perfect dinner or,ahem, lunch if you’re lucky, reach for a coupleof chilled shot glasses and a frosty bottle ofLimoncello and kick-it old school straight upas a digestivo (that’s Italian for “medicinalpurposes only”).

DIYLimoncello

Tracey Kusiewicz

REACH theBEST of

the BUNCH

REACH theBEST of

the BUNCH

AS HOME-BOUND EPICUREScontinue their quest for all thingshomemade (think cured biody-namic heritage pork cheek) orthe next big drink (the “modern”old-fashioned), Limoncelloseems to have it all—history andauthenticity with working classroots, praise from chefs fromBatali to Oliver and, best of all, ahigh percentage of alcohol. Thelemon liqueur secured its celebstatus when Danny DeVitoshowed up drunk for a taping ofThe View, blaming the “lastseven Limoncellos” he con-sumed following a boozy lunchwith pal George Clooney.Thought to have originated

somewhere in the Amalfi Coastregion of Italy in the early 20thcentury, Limoncello has beengetting some ice time in fashion-able restaurants on both sides ofthe Atlantic as ingredient, cock-tail and digestivo (althoughhopefully not all in one sitting).The do-it-yourself version allowsyou to adjust the sweetnesslevel to suit your palate (I opt forless sweet—just enough to cutsome of the sting). Warning: Pa-tience is paramount here. Thelemon zest must infuse for twomonths. Start now for latesummer sipping.

Homemade Limoncello• 15-20 organic lemons• 2 750 ml bottles vodka • 1 cup simple syrup (add 1 cup sugar to 1 cupwater and boil 5-10 minutes until slight thick-ening occurs, let cool)

Start by washing and drying the lemons. Then,using a sharp knife, shave thin slices of lemonzest, trying not to get the white pith as well. Ifyou do, cut again to remove white pith or it willimpart a bitter flavour. Add to a clean jar witha tight-fitting lid (I use large-format olive jars.You may need to ask your favourite chef orbartender to keep one for you) and top withvodka. The lemon zest should be completelysubmerged in vodka. Put on lid and store incool dark place for two months. After two months, strain, discard lemon

peels and put liquid back in glass jar. Mix inyour simple syrup. Add more or less to taste.Mix well, cover with lid and store in cool placeagain for 2-4 weeks at which point you can putinto bottles and store in the freezer.Ready in two to three months, you’d best get

this project on the go. Here are three ways toadmire your own handiwork, before, duringand after a meal with friends.

Before: Limoncello Fizz • 2 oz Limoncello• Half a lime, juiced• 1 Tbsp simple syrup• Soda water

In a cocktail shaker or large glass, shakeLimoncello, lime juice and simple syrup overice. Strain liquid into another glass and topwith soda water.Even harder than the other leading brand, thislemonade packs a punch. Try setting yourfriends up for your next bocce ball tourneywith a few of these refreshments. In fact, makethose doubles and maybe you’ll win. Try asoda siphon with reusable CO2 cartridges andsave valuable space in your recycling bin.Serve some citrus-coated pistachios (availableat your closest Persian market) and yourfriends may never leave.

During: Prosecco Cocktail • 1 oz Limoncello• 2 oz blood orange juice (or other orangejuice)• Prosecco

Mix Limoncello with orange juice and top withprosecco. This refreshing change from a mi-mosa or bellini can be served up as a cocktailor with a first course of crostini with Dunge-ness crab, lemon, mint and chili.

After: Straight Up and ChilledWhen it’s time to cap off that perfect dinner or,ahem, lunch if you’re lucky, reach for a coupleof chilled shot glasses and a frosty bottle ofLimoncello and kick-it old school straight upas a digestivo (that’s Italian for “medicinalpurposes only”).

eat magazine july | august 2009

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