wine, food and conversation from napa valley ...meethautelife.com/pdf/nvv_w15.pdf2 0 1 5 auction...

2015

Auction Napa ValleyPressing On

Innovations in WinemakingUnsung Grape Varieties

NAPA VALLEY INSIDER A LOCAL’S GUIDE

NAPAW I N E , F O O D A N D C O N V E R S AT I O N F R O M N A PA VA L L E Y V I N T N E R S

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P.O. Box 141 St. Helena, CA 94574

Tel: 707.963.3388

A passion for quality winemaking, combined with the drive to protect the land and community is what sets Napa Valley apart.

The valley’s combination of diverse soils, ideal climate and varied terrain are perfectly suited for growing a wide variety of fine wine grapes. Vineyards are intentionally farmed to produce low yields of the highest quality. Throughout the growing season, vines are carefully managed to ensure optimal fruit development. In the fall, grapes are harvested mostly by hand and often at night to preserve fresh fruit flavors.

Napa Valley is the most renowned winegrowing region in the United States and also one of the smallest, producing a mere 4% of California’s annual wine grape harvest. The wineries are small, too, with 78% producing fewer than 10,000 cases of wine annually and 95% are family owned. Although small in size, the Napa Valley wine industry has a big impact, creating more than 300,000 U.S. jobs and providing a $50 billion annual impact on the American economy.

It’s not just the land that makes Napa Valley special. A history of leadership has also shaped this winegrowing region. From America’s first Agricultural Preserve to development of the Napa Green Certified Land and Winery programs to the more than $145 million given to area nonprofit organizations, Napa Valley’s vintners and growers are committed to cultivating excellence.

Enjoy,

Napa Valley Vintners

05 Winemaking Innovations

12 Auction Napa Valley

21 Unique Food and Wine Pairings

27 Giving Big — Napa Valley Earthquake

33 Napa Valley Insider

Introducing the new Napa ValleyWinery Map and Trip Planner

Browse and search hundreds of comprehensive winery listings, create your itinerary, plan your route and text it to your mobile device. While you’re here, use the mobile version to discover wineries and get directions.

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Napa Valley wineriesat your fingertips...

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Publisher MICHAEL GOLDMAN

Editor-in-Chief PAMELA JOUAN

Design Director JANA POTASHNIK BAIRDesign, Inc.

Managing Editor CHRISTIAN KAPPNER

Assistant Editor STEPHANE HENRION

Senior Copy Editor KELLY SUZAN WAGGONER

Contributing Writers PAMELA JOUAN

Photography COURTESY OF NAPA VALLEY VINTNERS

SAM ASLANIAN

STUART LIRETT (PRESS sommelier)

ROBB MCDONOUGH (Austin- Innovations photo)

DAVONTEA NORFLEET (photo of cod dish PRESS)

CATHY O’HAGAIN (Viader Winery)

JASON TINACCI

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2011

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A Bouley and Tsuji

Collaboration

TWO VISIONARIES, ONE CONCEPT

Super Potato

THE ESSENCE OF DESIGN

Rising Star

CHEF ISAO YAMADA

Healthy Japanese Ingredients

FROM TOFU TO KELP

Fundamentally Pure Recipes: DASHI, TOFU MISO SOUP, AND CLEAR SOUP WITH DUMPLINGS

G O T H A M j o u r n a lA M A g A z i n e o f M o d e r n A M e r i c A n f o o d c u lt u r e

The heirloom issue

2013

GOT F13.indd 1 12/16/13 11:37 AM

FROM RUSTIC TO ELEGANT GRAvITATING TOwARd ITALIAN

LIFESTYLE SURROUNdEd bY ITALIAN dESIGN

IN THE PAN COOkING FROM SCOTT CONANT’S ITALIAN PANTRY

AROUNd TOwN FAvORITE FINdS FROM THE STAFF

LIVE ITALIAN ISSUE

2013

SCR F13.indd 1 12/12/13 4:34 PM

Ultimate Wine Destinations

Grand Crus at Corton

Grand Award-Winning List at Tribeca Grill

Myriad F10.indd 1 12/17/10 1:33:29 PM

2013

A NEW EpicurEAN ExpEriENcE

chef david bouley SpriNg chlorophyll Soup With SWEEt pEAS,

ASpArAguS, FAvA BEANS, AromAtic hErBS, ANd goldEN oSEtrA cAviAr

d i v i n e d i N i N gSM

di

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ne

diN

iNg

SM

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the good lifeL DV H o s p i ta L i t y R e stau Ra n ts at R e V e L2013

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2012

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C E L E B R A T I N G C R A F T A N D F L A V O R W I T H M I C H A E L C H I A R E L L O

Attention to Detail CHIARELLO STyLE

Team Bottega ExpERIENCE AND ENERGy

The Wine Whisperer AMIGO BOB

With a Twist BALANCING THE CLASSICS

Home Room A pRIVATE DINING ExpERIENCE

BOT S12 1 7/31/12 10:18 AM

2014 full

circlechef

C E L E B R A T I N G C R A F T A N D F L A V O R

T H E V A L U E O F E X P E R I E N C E S E E I N G , TA ST I N G , A N D TO U C H I N G G I V E C R E D I B I LT Y

M U S S E L S W H AT A LO N G , ST RA N G E T R I P I T ’ S B E E N

R E C I P E S C H E F R O B E RT W I E D M A I E R ’ S FAVO R I T E D I S H E S

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2012

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Neue LiviNga r t , c u i s i n e , a n d c u l t u r e t h r o u g h t h e e y e s o f c h e f K u r t g u t e n b r u n n e r

NEL F12.indd 1 12/17/12 11:34 AM

i n s p i r i n g c u l i n a r y e x c e l l e n c e

Bocuse d’Or usa

issue 2 • vol. 1

Destination: new York CitY

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i n s p i r i n g c u l i n a r y e x c e l l e n c e

Bocuse d’Or usa

issue 1 • vol.1

Destination: Yountville, Ca

BDO S10.indd 1 7/29/10 12:01:49

2009

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Fall/Winter 2009–2010

Bouley Gastronomique

A WORK OF ART

An Artist’s Passion

ILLUMINATING THE WALLS

The Light of Provence

LANDSCAPES COME TO LIFE

The World Champion of Cheese

A MASTER AFFINEUR

Recipes : Cheese Fon du e A nd V eG eTA BLes

Bouley F09.indd 1 12/8/09 1:11:30 PM

2012

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The Journeyi s s u e 1

shaun Hergattf o o d • d e t a i l s • t r a v e l

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2011

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at our tableC O N V E R S A T I O N S O N F O O D , W I N E , A N D C U LT U R E

M A R K E T S T R A T E G I E S Two chefs craft different delectable

dishes with the same ingredients

S H O W A N D T E L L :

Behind the scenes of the Bacchus Group with Tim Stannard

Seeking theP E R F E C T C A S K

Team Bacchus unearths hidden treasures in Scotland

When a sommelier and a master roaster form a coffee company

b R E W I N GG R E A T N E S S I S

AOT S11.indd 1 7/12/11 11:49 AM

meethautelife.com

Winemaking Innovations

IN NAPA VALLEY

NECESSITY MAY BE THE MOTHER OF INVENTION, BUT INNOVATION STARTS WITH A CURIOUS SPIRIT—AND NAPA VALLEY WINEMAKERS HAVE PLENTY OF THAT. USING A COMBINATION OF THE LATEST RESEARCH TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT, TRIED-AND-TRUE PRACTICES OF THE OLD WORLD, AND INTUITION AND PRACTICAL EXPERIENCE,

THEY MAKE WINES THAT HAVE BECOME A CALLING CARD FOR THE REGION’S DEDICATION TO ITS CRAFT AS AN EVOLVING ART FORM: BOLD, DISTINCTIVE, SURPRISING AT TIMES AND ALWAYS DRIVEN BY TERROIR.

HERE, SOME OF THE BRIGHTEST YOUNG MINDS IN WINEMAKING BLOW OUR MINDS AS THEY LEVERAGE TECHNOLOGY WITH VITICULTURE TO MAKE HIGH-QUALITY WINES THAT ARE THE FUTURE OF NAPA VALLEY.

The restless winemakers comb the vineyards searching for tomorrow’s answers, building on observations as they tend the vines, the sun broad on their backs, with eyes fixed on the horizon and minds to the future.


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With an office in Napa Valley, Fruition Sciences was founded in 2007 after seven years of developmental research on vine sap flow at academic institutions in France and the United States and in the fields of select vineyards. Among those early believers were Dana Estates and Ovid, whose winemakers were of the notion that having a window into the behavior of a vine and how it responds to various input—water a big one—could only benefit the end result in the bottle.

CAMERON VAWTER: We were part of the original Ph.D. project of one of the Fruition Sciences founders back in 2006. I use their software tracking in every single block and sap flow sensors in all the vineyards. It has been instrumental in changing some of our techniques for vine water management.

AUSTIN PETERSON: We too started in 2006. We were keen to see how the vines use water and respond to our various inputs. Technology like this absolutely helps you plant a better vineyard. It improves the farming you are already doing and opens up all sorts of ideas in terms of thinking about establishing a new vineyard that is really dependent on where it is, and what that soil looks like.

CAMERON: The whole reason I moved sap flow sensors into one of my vineyards, for example, was because I was struggling with a block that had a lot of tannins. Sap flow helped us not only deal with our tannin issues but also work that block toward dry farming, which was previously unheard of.

AUSTIN: We are really withholding water from the vines until they actually need it, and then delivering it in a way in which the vines can use it most effectively. The way in which vines use water makes an impact in terms of the quality of the fruit for the potential quality of the wine.

CAMERON: But it doesn’t happen on a dime. Vines need training. Yes, without a doubt I used way less water last year. And so, in general, my vines held up much better through the dry conditions, but that was due to changes we began making in 2007 and 2008. I have vines that have been dry farmed for many years now and they didn’t react very differently this year than they have in the past.

AUSTIN: Over the past few years, we have come to understand that the vines really do react to our inputs, and as a consequence you can adjust an existing vineyard to require less interference from us, whether it be pruning, cover crops, cover load or irrigation. We are of the mindset that the best wines are made with the least amount of intervention. Sap flow sensors have taught us how to tailor those practices to achieve the highest level of quality fruit. It’s not particular to one year, but an ongoing drive.

CAMERON: I agree—the fewer inputs I can use, the more true I can be to a sense of place. Water use in important, yes, but what is paramount is expression of site and place. We make three different vineyard-designated wines for the express purpose of reflecting a sense of place.

AUSTIN: Having that window into the behavior of the vine in a relatively objective manner really allows us to improve on the fruit that is coming into the winery so that there are fewer things to do in there, resulting in a better wine.

CAMERON: I have definitely noticed that my sugars and alcohol levels have been decreasing, particularly in the last three years, because the vines are more balanced and the sugar accumulation is happening a little more slowly. That said, Napa Valley was built on sharing and exchanging knowledge so we can all grow better grapes. Austin and I both have been on panels together about Fruition Sciences, and the company holds an annual conference in town in January, called the Vintage Report, to share the latest technical advances.

AUSTIN: We are always happy to share with others how we use Fruition Sciences and why it has changed our thoughts and practices.

IQ CONFERENCE: NAPA VALLEY

To foster conversation about innovations in winemaking, each year Wine Business Monthly hosts IQ (Innovation + Quality), an all-day conference featuring seminars and a tradeshow dedicated to the concept of using innovation to advance wine quality. Featuring educational sessions and tastings as well as hands-on demonstrations of the latest equipment and techniques curated by WBM editors in partnership with wineries, this annual event occurs in March.

Susan Boswell, owner of Chateau Boswell, is a member of the IQ Advisory Board and a Napa Valley Vintners board member. ”Every year marks a new game in the business of wine production based on a number of factors, not limited to the weather, harvest pick dates, sorting equipment, fermentation vessel choices, press dates, cooperage selections, and so forth. The opportunity to learn from the past and manage the game anew each year is what makes this industry so exciting. And as with any business, maintaining a cutting-edge knowledge of the opportunities to enhance your product quality is key to reaching our goals.” The 2015 IQ Conference took place at Charles Krug Winery.

For more details go to winebusiness.com.

Austin Peterson

Cameron Vawter

Fruition SciencesBeyond the Vine

A conversation with winemakers Cameron Vawter, from Dana Estates, and Austin Peterson, from Ovid.



In 2004, Viader Vineyards started using concrete tanks for fermentation and storage. “My mother made the initial decision,” explains Alan Viader. “She was attracted to the old-globe wine houses like Château Pétrus, which had concrete tanks. And since we also have a more traditional wine style, she thought it would be a nice fit.”

Using concrete tanks is nothing new. In fact, this age-old practice dates back to Roman times. It fell out of favor toward the end of the last century and was only recently rediscovered by winemakers. Today’s models include modern twists: stainless steel fittings, temperature controls and customized doors to make draining and cleaning easier. Plus they come in all shapes and sizes, some more surprising than others.

Viader gets its concrete tanks from Nomblot in France—one of the original companies to begin making them in the 1920s—and uses them to make red wines. Today, several U.S. companies custom-design their tanks using domestic concrete. For Viader, glycol plates and a stainless steel coil on the inside of the tanks help control the temperature. The winery has concrete cubes that are quite large and eggs that are fairly small. While he’s happy to tout the merits of concrete in general, Viader is clearly taken by the egg shape of his tanks.

Remi Cohen is no stranger to technology. She has domestically produced concrete fermentation vats in her winery, along with custom-designed truncated tanks. A gravity crane delivers whole berries to tank with minimal disruption, and she has an app on her phone that gives her real-time data from the sap flow monitors on the vines. “We want to do all the work upfront in the vineyard so we can bring as perfect as possible grapes into the winery. There, the fruit doesn’t need as much sorting.”

All the same, Cliff Lede Vineyards does have a super-duper, state-of-the-art Pellenc optical scanner to do the sorting. And it’s a beauty. Following a whole-cluster hand sort and destemming process, the settings are adjusted on the scanner for both color and size. Besides removing any pieces of leaves and stems, or rachis, this optical sorter can also check for underripe fruit, which is pink or light purple in color, and overripe fruit—smaller and like raisins in shape. Throughout the process, the settings can be readjusted as necessary, and a further hand sort of the berries is carried out at the very end.

“We believe the optical scanner helps us achieve a pure expression of perfectly ripe fruit, conducted with the same quality as a hand sort but at a faster pace,” says Cohen. “This especially comes in handy in the case of a weather-related obstacle, such as a drought or heavy rains, when it becomes necessary to process as much ready-to-harvest fruit as

Many feel the biggest benefit is that, similar to oak barrels, concrete allows the wine to oxygenate gradually, but without the oaky flavors of the wood barrel. “Concrete is porous. It keeps the yeast happy at the end of fermentation, and that in turn makes the wine less reductive in character,” says Viader.

Given the cubes are five-ton tanks, Viader can whole ferment wines in those. “Because the egg is so much smaller and has only a small eight-inch opening at the top and two-inch valve on the bottom, I tend to use it as a neutral vessel in which to finish fermentation, without skins. When I compare the two lots, 99 percent of the time I prefer the egg because of the rounder, richer mouthfeel. It tends to be less reductive and more expressive of fruit notes, and creates a beautiful, aromatic wine.”

Can shape really make that much of a difference? Viader thinks so. “I believe the egg shape has a huge impact, in a subtle way,” he explains, the way the wine settles on the bottom of the egg similar to the way it settles in the arch of a barrel. “You get a thin layer of sediment versus big chunks in a corner.” He points out that the natural shape promotes a cyclical flow or natural stirring effect during fermentation. “There is something very special about the egg shape. It’s so natural; the sphere is beautiful. It really lends itself to a roundness or freshness that comes out in the wine.”

possible in a short a period of time. It’s an insurance policy that gives us flexibility,” she adds.

With a degree in molecular and cellular biology from UC Berkeley, a master’s degree in viticulture and enology from UC Davis, and an MBA to boot, Cohen is part of a rare breed who has leveraged technology for the good of the wine, pulling from an incredible educational base, as well as a practical one. Her passion for viticulture cannot be denied, and it starts in and focuses on the vineyard. “We are a small-production, small-lot winery,” explains Cohen. “We only use technology to create a pure fruit and vineyard expression, and allow for minimal intervention in the fermentation and elevage of the wine. We only choose technology that assists us in achieving the quality we desire for our small-lot wine production. We bottle all of our red wines unfined and unfiltered and believe that the technology we use, combined with an old-world mentality, allows us to create polished, focused and profound wines that express the vineyard.”

Cohen is happy to share with her winemaking neighbors her winery’s experiences with the scanner. “Our door is always open. Besides, we benefit from the observations of others as well. It’s a small community here, and everyone works together to improve quality in Napa Valley.”

CONCRETE EVIDENCE ABOUT FERMENTATION

Alan Viader, Director of Operations at Viader Vineyards and Winery, on Concrete Tanks

OPTICAL SCANNERS PRESENT NO ILLUSIONS

Remi Cohen, Vice President and General Manager at Cliff Lede Vineyards, on the Merits of Technology for the Right Reasons

Alan Viader

Remi Cohen


© 2014 JPMorgan Chase & Co. All rights reserved. J.P. Morgan is the marketing name for JPMorgan Chase & Co. and its subsidiaries and affiliates worldwide.

A local view harvests global visionJ.P. Morgan is proud to partner with Auction Napa Valley in its efforts to support the local Napa community.

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Auction Napa Valley

For 34 years, Auction Napa Valley has used the fruits of its homegrown success to give more than $145 million to enhance the health and well-being of the Napa Valley community. From live auctions to an online component, the event raised $18.7 million in 2014, which will be invested for a maximum and meaningful impact on the areas of community health and children’s educational programs. Thanks to a reserve account, Napa Valley Vintners was able to respond quickly to the South Napa earthquake in August 2014 by providing the lead gift of $10 million to the Napa Valley Community Disaster Relief Fund. >

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Auction Napa Valley is much more than a weekend celebration of camaraderie and community. It’s a year-round endeavor Napa Valley Vintners carefully plans with the help of a steering committee. The hard work continues long after the event by the Grants Review Committee, which determines how to best use the funds within the community.

It’s a call to one and all to roll up their sleeves and make a difference in the place they call home—where the sun shines, the grapes grow, the children play and the world seems a little brighter through a wine-stained glass.

“Auction Napa Valley is the quintessential four-day food and wine experience. The interaction with the winemakers, hedonistic pleasure of incredible food and wine and ability to do something that is so good for the community at the

same time is unparalleled.” —David Pearson, Opus One CEO and Honorary Chair of Auction Napa Valley 2015


AUCTION NAPA VALLEY 2014: SWEET HOME NAPA VALLEY

“I will never forget my first auction. I can still remember standing on the top of the hill at Meadowood, looking down at the tent with the brightly colored streamers flying in the breeze, hearing the chatter of people and feeling that magical buzz. It was electric. And once inside that tent, I had never been in a room so filled with good energy and excitement.”

Valerie Gargiulo of Gargiulo Vineyards was honorary co-chair of Auction Napa Valley 2014 along with her husband, Jeff, and David and Dr. Kary Duncan of Silver Oak and Twomey Cellars. That first auction she attended in the late 1980s was part and parcel of the overall sense of community the Gargiulos experienced when they first decided to make wine in Napa Valley. “Family, friends, neighbors—even those who were complete strangers at that point—wrapped their arms around us and made us feel so welcome. And we, in turn, respected, admired and appreciated their trueness to the soil and how they lived their lives by the vines.”

Embracing the responsibilities that come with the title, Valerie likened the yearlong auction process to “putting together the pieces of a puzzle.” Around the theme “Sweet Home Napa Valley,” she and her co-chairs set out to mesh old, traditional Napa Valley with the edgier version they feel the town is moving toward. “There was such a great spirit of collaboration with the vintners, so much help and goodwill. From

AUCTION NAPA VALLEY 2015: FAMILIES HELPING FAMILIES

When we asked David Pearson, CEO of Opus One, why he has devoted so much of his time to the auction this year as honorary co-chair along with Christopher Barefoot, VP of Public Relations, he replied, “My job is to ensure that Opus One continues for generations to come, and to do that we need a vibrant and healthy community for the wine business around us. We don’t live in a vacuum, and we know that. Auction Napa Valley ensures that the local community remains healthy and growing, and supports the wine industry at the same time.”

Of course, it’s not that simple.

Auction Napa Valley 2015 officially began at the closing gavel of 2014, but even before then plans were well under way. “We already knew we were honorary chairs, and so we were watching and taking lessons as this past auction was unfolding,” explains Pearson. He stresses that his role is an entire Opus One family endeavor, which partly is where this year’s “Families Helping Families” theme came from. Opus One has always enjoyed an active engagement within the community through its own volunteer programs. “We talk a lot about the importance of family-owned wineries in Napa Valley, and so we started to think about what it means to be a family in broader terms, not just the traditional sense. Once you have that perspective of being part of something bigger, a family of Napa Valley vintners, it becomes a very natural reflex to want to take care of each other. The actions we take today are designed to protect our community and give our children an even better place to live.”

working with our event designer, Michael Gapinski, on our vision; to planning the auction lots with our team; to the auction week itself; and now helping with the fulfillment of those lots—every step along the way has been an incredible experience that has allowed each of us to meet some extraordinary people.”

Raising a record-breaking $18.7 million, the auction makes a huge impact on the community. “Everyone in this town is touched in some way—from the workers in the vineyard to the people driving the trucks—and I really think that’s why there is so much cooperation and community spirit around this event. When you drive through each little town during auction week, you can really feel the energy.”

Clinic Ole Community Health is the only nonprofit community health center in Napa County. “It serves more than 30,000 people a year. It is a huge part of the community, along with St. Helena Hospital and Queen of the Valley Medical Center—all recipients of grants from the auction.” In addition to benefiting health care and children’s education, Gargiulo points to a walking and biking trail that the auction just funded this year. “This 28-mile trail affects all of our lives. It gives us all a safe place to bike, walk and hike.”

Looking forward to the next auction, Gargiulo smiles, her memories stirring. She’s thinking of standing at the top of that hill, her breath caught in her throat, and the impact one weekend in June can make on her town.

Privy to the inner workings of the auction, Pearson and Barefoot were both impressed by the amount of work, time, dedication, and commitment that vintners and the Napa Valley Vintners association put into the painstaking yearlong process. “It’s not just about the event itself and the money raised, but the amount of time spent deciding how to redistribute those funds, assessing their effectiveness, and then reassessing in terms of future donations,” explains Pearson. “The quality of support given to each of those 22 charities is an ongoing process, balancing being as broad as possible with maximum dollar impact.”

On November 1st, Auction Napa Valley began signing up wineries that want to participate in the following year’s event. “Within 15 minutes, the 100 slots for the barrel-tasting auction were filled, with a waiting list of an additional 30. The rate at which the auction lots are coming in is faster than we have ever seen before. Every year the offerings get more exotic, attractive and fantastic.”

Citing the $10 million given to the Napa Valley Community Disaster Relief Fund as “one of the most salient examples of the vintners’ ability to respond quickly to the needs within Napa Valley,” Pearson adds his respect and awe for an event not just done well, but done well on such a scale and scope. “In all humility, I don’t know of any other wine community that does anything quite like this to ensure the future of the fabric of the wine industry. We are an exemplary case of this around the country.” Indeed, an exemplary case of families helping families.


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GIVING TO THE NAPA VALLEY COMMUNITY

Ed Matovcik is president of Intervine, a member of the Auction Napa Valley Board of Directors and chair of the Grants Review Committee, a position he has held for two years running. His commitment to the wine industry is entwined with his innate need to help the community in general.

I was one of those school kids who wanted to change the world. After college, I spent 23 years in public service before officially entering the wine business. During that time, I worked alongside selfless people who helped some of the some vulnerable members of our community. I got to personally know the nonprofits in Napa that provide daily help to those who have fallen through the cracks. I wanted to keep that connection and when I entered the wine business, the Napa Valley Vintners and the auction provided the perfect match. I am also fortunate enough to work for a company that understands the importance of community investment and allows me the time to chair the Grants Review Committee.

There’s an intrinsic feeling I get from the auction that’s hard to describe. How can you not feel good inside every time a paddle is raised, knowing it is providing cancer screening for our uninsured neighbors, balanced meals for shut-in seniors, protection for women who are victims of abuse, quality preschool for our most vulnerable children, and mental health counseling for teens who can so easily slip away from us? Additionally, we are looking into funding a pilot program for an integrated behavioral health network that will coordinate and improve care. The challenge lies in staying true to our mission of going deep, not broad. But it is probably the single most important thing we can do to ensure that we are moving the needle on the greatest needs.

It’s a magical chemistry that exists between the vintners, our treasured bidders and our local community that has allowed us to invest more than $145 million in our local human infrastructure. We live in a pretty cool place whose giving spirit, I would dare say, is unmatched in any other winegrowing region around the world.

WHAT A BID OF $1,000 DOES FOR OUR COMMUNITY

A full year of afterschool and summerprograms for one child at the Boys &Girls Clubs of St. Helena and Calistoga.

A guarantee that six uninsured adultpatients can see a primary care doctorwhen they need to at Clinic Ole.

Computers for three foster children at NapaLearns.

Three hundred and fifty exercise bandsto seniors for strength and balancetraining at Area Agency on Aging toprevent falls.

Summer camp or enrollment in anafterschool activity at Napa CASAfor a child in foster care.

Ten mental health counseling sessionswith a professional therapist for a low-income individual or family.

A mammogram for one individual at St. Helena Hospital.

Emergency aid assistance for fourfamilies at UpValley Family Centers.

Parenting workshops at Cope FamilyCenter for 10 families struggling withdivorce or separation.

Emergency safety-net assistance for20 families at Puertas Abiertas.

Individualized counseling on collegeand financial aid for one high schoolsenior at Summer Search.

Professional counseling support atBig Brothers Big Sisters.

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MeadowoodCenter Stage in Napa Valley

Meadowood embodies the soul of Napa Valley in its entirety—a veritable perfect storm of wine, food and hospitality gathered on 250 acres in a beautiful natural setting.

You can feel it as you enter the driveway—that same magical sensation that compelled H. William Harlan and his partners to purchase the property just 48 hours after setting eyes on it in 1979. Back then it was a rustic country club, albeit set on breathtaking land—not the impressive destination resort of today.

Harlan would become one of the most admired vintners in the valley, but it was his original vision for Meadowood—to make a community gathering ground for Napa’s vintners and growers—that would set the stage to transform the property into the perfect destination to entice visitors to taste the fruits of the Valley’s labors. There is perhaps no other place that has become as fitting a symbol for what Napa Valley represents today.

A key element to the vision of making Napa Valley the premiere wine region of the world was that winemaking and hospitality are inseparable. Meadowood added a collection of guest rooms and cottages and, in 1987, became one of California’s first Relais & Châteaux members. Its vintner members and their families have full access to tennis courts, swimming, hiking, an award-winning golf course and even a croquet lawn. The resort also features a Michelin three-star restaurant under the guidance of Chef Christopher Kostow, where his commitment to local food and local wine is showcased. Produce comes directly from Meadowood Garden and the wine list highlights the finest wines from Meadowood’s Napa Valley neighbors.

The understated, unpretentious style of Meadowood was designed to blend seamlessly into the natural setting. The guest rooms reflect a Californian style of living—guests can take advantage of the natural beauty of the surroundings with ample outdoor space, and the natural beauty is reflected in the colors and tones of the inside decor.

Napa Valley Vintners’ first office was at Meadowood, and the inaugural Auction Napa Valley took place there in 1981. The auction was originally conceived as the perfect way to bring the vintners together to raise funds for the community and awareness of Napa Valley wines. Thirty-three years later, Meadowood continues to be the location for what has become one of the most important wine auctions in the world, giving more than $145 million to directly benefit and support local charities in the community.

Although Napa Valley Vintners now has a new home, the strong connection continues. For the past 10 years, Meadowood, Napa Valley Vintners, and The Culinary Institute of America have collaborated to bring together the most important wine writers in the country for The Symposium for Professional Wine Writers. The four-day conference explores contemporary wine writing, and last year’s keynote speaker was none other than Robert M. Parker Jr.

As a gathering place for vintners, Meadowood has grown and thrived with the families of the local community and is certainly part of the culture of the valley. As a resort, Meadowood represents the essence of Napa Valley on a world stage.


Thinking and Drinking Outside the Box

WHEN IT COMES TO WINE, THERE’S A GLASS TO SUIT EVERYONE’S TASTE IN NAPA VALLEY. BESIDES THE MOST WIDELY PLANTED CABERNET SAUVIGNON AND CHARDONNAY GRAPES, NAPA VALLEY IS FULL OF

PLEASANT SURPRISES FOR THOSE LOOKING FOR VARIETIES OFF THE BEATEN PATH. AND WITH AN INCREDIBLE CONCENTRATION OF AMAZING RESTAURANTS THAT OFFER NAPA-CENTRIC WINE LISTS, THERE’S NO BETTER WAY

TO ENJOY THESE NOT-SO-HIDDEN GEMS THAN WITH A LITTLE HELP FROM A FRIENDLY SOMMELIER.



onion compote and sweet potato gnocchi. “Its heaven with a Gewürztraminer.” Likewise, a warm cabbage salad—sometimes constructed with duck or confit pheasant legs, sherry vinegar, a little duck fat, and bacon perhaps—works well with this wine. “What’s better than a warm salad on a cold, rainy day?” he asks, smiling.

Hurley says he would easily pair Pinot Grigio, a grape that also has roots in the Alsace, with most of his seafood dishes. “Pavi makes a Pinot Grigio that is very bright with good acidity. It’s great with my cioppino that has a lot of rich shellfish in it. It’s a real palate cleanser.”

To say there are a few hidden gems on both the wine list and the menu at Hurley’s is an understatement. “We love to turn our guests on to something new,” Hurley adds. “And if they remember us for that, well then it’s a win-win all around.

Hurley’s: WHERE UNSUNG VARIETALS SHINE

“There are so many incredible wines in Napa Valley to choose from that it simply comes down to personal taste. Our wine list reflects the food that we serve and my own tastes, as well as that of General Manager Jerry Lampe,” says Hurley’s owner and chef, Bob Hurley. And those tastes are, as he likes to say, “fiercely local.”

Located in Yountville, the epicenter of Napa Valley, Hurley’s offers a local Californian cuisine influenced by the Mediterranean flavors. “What I do with the food has everything to do with the wine. Mediterranean flavors are not radical, so it’s easy for me to meld the two.”

You will find only Napa Valley wines at Hurley’s, an extraordinary amount of them from right in Yountville. Lampe puts together an annual list based on tastings management conducts each January. “Jerry insists on a balanced and local wine list, both in varieties and flavors.” Some of those selections, though, just might surprise you.

Hurley admits he has a penchant for Rhône varieties. “They are well received here, and done well and a little differently,” he explains. He points out a Charbono, of which he has five on the list. “We have a lot of success here with these wines because of the kind of food I do, specifically the game dishes that I specialize in. Charbono is a meat wine—not as big as a Cabernet, complex but with a softer, clean finish. It’s not too jammy and it doesn’t linger, and it pairs perfectly with our braised wild boar, buffalo short rib, and weekly venison specials. And with only 130 acres of Charbono grown in the United States, half in Napa, as a restaurant we can really distinguish ourselves by offering something different that tastes amazing.” Among the other red varieties Hurley gravitates toward are Syrahs, Malbecs, and Petit Verdot.

When it comes to whites, he tends to stick with the drier ones. “I adore a good Gewürztraminer, especially with dishes for which I had Alsace flavors in mind when I created them.” He mentions a grilled pork chop served with an apple–

PRESS: NAPA VALLEY BY THE GLASS

With a wine list that touts Napa Valley vintages going back to the 1950s, PRESS digs deep and sticks by its local stance. “Both our menu and wine list celebrate Napa Valley, the land around us, and the people who make this place so beautiful and abundant,” explains sommelier Angela Stem. “And that includes all of those who did this 100 years ago as well.”

Their 10,000-bottle cellar is filled with older vintages—such as a recently acquired selection of coveted Louis Martinis—many procured from private cellars around the valley, as well as new vintages that are easily updated daily since their wine list is accessible on an iPad. Current and definitely as local as the food Executive Chef Trevor Kunk prepares from as many homegrown-sourced ingredients as possible. “We chose to cook and pour local in support of our neighbors, and to showcase the depth of the vintages to prove to the world that our wines can age just as gracefully and beautifully as old-world wines.”

Stem admits that being meat-centric allows them to fairly easily maintain a Napa Valley wine list where Cabernets dominate. “But with Chef Kunk’s creativity, we are able to have fun on the list with varietals off the beaten path. He creates a dish and we find something to pair it with besides the obvious.”

Take their rib eye, rich with heavy marbling, for which Stem recommends a Charbono. “It’s different and yet historically known in the area, falling out of fashion mainly after Prohibition.” She points to its earthy spices, full flavors, and a brightness with a high acidic lift that cuts through and balances out the richness of the meat. “I see it becoming even more popular; it grows well here since Napa Valley has the perfect environment and climate for this grape.” Stem also reflects on a recent rise in interesting Rhône-style red blends: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Carignan as well as white blends, including the one she pairs with the cod recipe on page 25, the Kenefick Ranch Pickett Road White. “It has some richness to it from the Marsanne in the blend that holds up to the heavier flavors of the sausage in the dish. Very floral and, again, a nice acidic, mouthwatering component too.”

1313: A STUDY IN WINE, WITH A MAJOR IN NAPA VALLEY

“With 2,027 labels, our wine list is designed to make the guest say: ‘I need help!’” Wine Director Jordan Nova says, laughing. “After all, it weighs three pounds!” With a small but able staff (“all my managers must be sommeliers”) to point you in the right direction, “getting lost in wine” at 1313 is a pleasurable experience.

1313 was the exact opposite of most restaurants that usually start with a food concept in mind. Originally a platform to showcase wine—owner Al Jabarin is also proprietor of online retailer calwine.com—the kitchen was added in 2012, and rising star Chef Adam Ross (formerly of Ad Hoc and The Restaurant at Meadowood) now helms the kitchen. “Today it is very much about duality and collaboration. I’m in the kitchen as much as Chef Ross is in the dining room. Whether the food or wine takes the lead is entirely up to the guest.”

Its list of more than 1,500 Napa Valley wines seems to please the out-of-towners as well as Napa residents. “We find that tourists are inquisitive about local producers, so it is our aim to let them drink that Cabernet Sauvignon that they won’t find when they go home to Milwaukee or Austin, or even San Francisco!”

While there are always those who want the big names and “king” grapes, Nova points to a younger new guard “who aren’t as attached to their ways” and are more than willing to experiment, which is a good thing given what he has to work with these days. “There are some really great Rieslings in Napa Valley, especially dry ones like a Smith Madrone. Merlot is finally making a comeback, and it’s exciting to not only have its presence on the scene but also watch what the producers are coming up—Merlot that is more reminiscent of Bordeaux; perfumed, spicy, and juicy, not just dark, tannic, and extracted.” He places Cabernet Franc in this category of varieties that are being produced exceptionally well. “They are juicy, green, and aromatic with notes of lavender and jalapeños, versus the kind that taste like Cabernet Sauvignon.” Petite Sirah also makes his go-to list of varieties to watch.

Set in a stunning, renovated building in downtown Napa, 1313 has a menu that matches its million-dollar wine list. But it’s the education you’ll take away about the local wines that ultimately is priceless.


PRESS Executive Chef Trevor Kunk

Pacific Cod, Roasted Brassicas serves 4

Hurley’s Executive Chef Bob Hurley

Braised Wild Boar in Red Wine with Polenta and Roasted Fall Vegetables serves 6

1313 Executive Chef Adam Ross

Maryhill Peach Honey Panna Cotta serves 2

Roasted Brassicas1/2 cup broccoli rabe leaves and florets, finely chopped1/2 cup broccoli florets, finely chopped1/2 cup cauliflower: white, romanesco, cheddar, purple, finely chopped1/2 cup Tuscan kale, finely chopped1/2 cup green cabbage, finely chopped1/2 cup red cabbage, finely chopped1/2 cup Brussels sprouts leaves, finely chopped7 tsp vegetable oilSalt and pepperJuice of one lemon 2 tsp minced chivesZest of 1 lemon, finely chopped1 tbs capers

MethodRoast the first 8 ingredients over very high heat in vegetable oil until charred and a very deep brown, almost black. Season with salt and pepper, lemon juice, chives, lemon zest, and capers. Cool and mix all together.

Marinade5 tbs olive oil1 large carrot, peeled and diced2 ribs celery, peeled and diced1 onion, diced7 cloves garlic10 juniper berries, crushed3 bay leaves, broken upSeveral sprigs of fresh thyme5 cups red wine (Syrah, Zinfandel or Cabernet Sauvignon)2 quarts veal stock3 pounds wild boar shoulder (or substitute pork shoulder)Salt and pepper

MethodCombine all marinade ingredients together and add the boar. Marinate in refrigerator overnight. Remove the boar from the marinade and set aside.Preheat oven to 300°F. Strain all solids from the wine marinade and set aside. In a saucepan, heat the wine marinade to a simmer and skim all the impurities from the top, while reducing by half.Prepare the boar by patting it dry with a towel. Season the boar with salt and pepper, and brown it in a heavy skillet with the olive oil.When browned, add the reserved vegetables (from the marinade) to the mix and lightly caramelize them. Then add wine and finally veal stock to cover. (If you find yourself short on veal stock, use a fortified chicken stock.) It is important that the meat is covered with liquid during the braising. Bring to a simmer, cover and place in

CodFour 6-8 oz fillets of cod, skin on and scoredSalt and pepper3 tsp vegetable oil1 tbs butterCoarse salt

MethodHeat a nonstick pan over very high heat. Season fish with salt and pepper. Add vegetable oil and let the pan start smoking gently. Add fish, skin-side down, and cook for 30 seconds. After 30 seconds, add butter and let brown gently for 30 more seconds. Turn fish and let it continue to cook for 1 minute. Move fish from the pan, and drain on a paper towel. Re-season with coarse salt and serve over the mixed brassicas.

Wine Pairing 2012 Kenefick Ranch “Pickett Road White” (Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Viognier), Calistoga

oven for approximately 3 hours, or until very tender. After two hours, check every 30 minutes or so. When meat is tender, remove from braising liquid. Strain all solids from the liquid and discard. Place braising liquid in a saucepan and reduce slowly while skimming off fat and impurities. Reduce until it reaches desired volume, viscosity and flavor (generally by at least half).While sauce is in progress, take the partially cooled meat and clean off and discard the major fat and sinew; set meat aside.Thirty minutes before serving, combine meat and sauce. Heat gently and hold.

Fall Vegetables2 oz cipollini onions, whole1 tbs balsamic vinegar3 tbs olive oilSalt and pepper4 carrots, peeled2 turnips, peeled2tbs unsalted butter

MethodPreheat oven to 350°F. Toss the cipollini onions with balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and salt and pepper. Roast in oven for about 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool and peel. Peel carrots and turnips and cut into 1-inch pieces. Toss in melted butter and roast in oven until tender, about 20 minutes.

Polenta4 cups water1 cup polenta2 tbs unsalted butter4 oz Parmesan cheese, freshly grated

MethodBring water to a boil and add polenta in a steady stream while stirring. Return to a boil, stirring constantly until polenta begins to dissolve and does not stick to the bottom of the pan. Turn heat to low, simmer and cook for approximately 30 minutes. During this time you may need to add more water to maintain a very thick consistency that pours. When polenta is smooth and creamy, add butter and cheese and mix well.

To AssemblePlace heated polenta on plate. Cover with ragout of wild boar and arrange roasted vegetables around the edges.

Wine Pairing Hill Family Estate Syrah

John Anthony Syrah

Panna Cotta2 cups heavy cream1/4 cup sugar2 tbs Maryhill Peach Honey1 vanilla bean1 package powdered gelatin3 tbs cold water

MethodHeat cream, sugar, and honey in a saucepan until sugar granules dissolve completely. Remove mixture from heat.Slice vanilla bean lengthways and scrape seeds clean from the pod. Add both pod and seeds to the cream and sugar. Let the cream sit for 1 hour. In the meantime, spray silicone molds or cups with neutral-flavored nonstick spray. Sprinkle gelatin over cold water and let stand for 10 minutes. Remove the vanilla pod and reheat cream just below simmering. Pour hot cream and sugar over the gelatin and whisk until gelatin dissolves. Pour into molds and refrigerate until completely set, generally 3 hours.Unmold panna cottas by running an offset spatula or small knife around the edges of mold.

Macerated Strawberries1 pint of ripe strawberries1 cup granulated sugarJuice of 2 lemons

Cut each strawberry into quarters. Toss strawberries in lemon and sugar. Let sit at room temperature for 2 hours or until sugar is completely dissolved.

Aerated Maryhill Peach Honeycomb1/4 cup Maryhill Peach Honey1/2 cup corn syrup2 cups granulated sugar3 tbs water1 tbs baking soda

MethodLine a deep casserole pan with parchment paper sprayed with nonstick cooking oil spray. Stir together honey, corn syrup, sugar, and water in a 4-liter pot.Over medium high heat, bring the honey mixture to 300°F using a candy thermometer. Brush the sides of the pot with water to prevent crystallization during this process.When the thermometer reaches 300°F, remove from heat and immediately add baking soda and mix for 10 seconds using a wooden spoon. The mixture will then quadruple in size.Pour aerated mixture into casserole pan and let sit for 3 hours in a dry place until it is completely set. (Shaking or moving the pan while mixture is setting will cause the bubbles to burst and the caramel will deflate.)After the caramel is set, remove from pan, and portion with a serrated knife. Remove dense outside layer to expose the airy, textured part of the caramel.

To Assemble1/2 cup pistachios

Roast pistachios. Rub nuts in-between towels to remove their outer skins. Cool nuts to room temperature.Unmold panna cottas and place each one at the bottom of a bowl. Spoon the strawberries and their liquid around the panna cotta. Scatter honeycomb and pistachios around and on top of the panna cotta. Drizzle with more of that delicious Maryhill Peach Honey and serve.

Wine Pairing Joseph Phelps “Eisrebe”: made from the German grape, Scheurebe, this is Phelps’ interpretation of ice wine.Truchard Vineyards “Late Harvest Roussanne”: a rich and juicy late-harvested Roussanne, a perfumey and honeyed grape from the Rhone Valley.


We Kept Calm and Pressed On

Six months ago, South Napa was rocked by an unwelcome wake-up call: a 6.0 earthquake—the largest to hit the Bay Area since the 6.9 Loma Prieta earthquake of 1989. The damage was evident everywhere. More than 200 people were treated for injuries, and hundreds of homes and buildings sustained enough damage to make them unfit to live in.

Neighbors checked in on neighbors, vintners called fellow winemakers. An official assessment from Silicon Valley Bank estimated that 60 percent of Napa Valley wineries sustained some degree of damage at a total of more than $80 million.

Responding with lightning speed to the needs of the community, the Napa Valley Vintners created the Napa Valley Community Disaster Relief Fund with a $10 million lead gift. To date, it’s been matched by close to half a million dollars in individual and corporate donations. Managed by the Napa Valley Community Foundation, the fund took immediate action in the form of a well-thought-out plan.

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WHITE-WINE VARIETIES

Albariño

A thick-skinned grape from Spain and Portugal that results in creamy, rich, and complex wines. “This variety screams for seafood. An aromatic variety that is high in acid and can be produced in a fresh crisp style or richer, fuller style with a touch of oak and lees stirring.” —Angela Stem

Pinot Grigio

These grapes produce wines that range from white to slightly pink, and taste just as varied depending upon the area in which they are grown. “Clean, bright, nice acidity. Great with seafood, like steamed clams, scallops, and shrimp.” —Bob Hurley

Tocai Friulano

An Italian grape that can produce elegant yet lively, full-bodied wines. “A variety with mouthwatering acidity and pronounced minerality. Marries well with steamed shellfish, grilled shrimp, and sushi.” —Angela Stem

Vermentino

Most often associated with Corsica, these are deep-colored, fruity, and full-bodied wines. Also know in France as Rolle. “An aromatic variety with refreshing acidity and floral aromas and flavors of peach, lemon peel, and dried herbs. This fragrant variety grown in Napa pairs well with spicy crab cakes, summer salads, and grilled fish.” —Angela Stem

Viognier

Once hard to find, these intense, dry, white wines have vibrant, floral qualities. “Dry, lightly spicy, fruity, complex dry finish. Perfect with fish.” —Bob Hurley

Off-the-Beaten-Path Napa VarietiesIN THE HANDS OF THE RIGHT SOMMELIER, TAKING A LEAP OF FAITH ON A NAPA VALLEY WINE THAT IS NOT A CABERNET SAUVIGNON OR CHARDONNAY CAN BE EYE-OPENING. “LET US HELP FIND YOU SOMETHING DIFFERENT: SMALL PRODUCERS, UNIQUE BRANDS. THERE ARE PLENTY OF NAPA VALLEY WINES OUT THERE THAT ARE JUST AS INTERESTING AND COMPLEX.” —ANGELA STEM, SOMMELIER, PRESS. “

RED-WINE VARIETIES

Charbono

“This unsung variety has a long history in Napa. With moderate acidity and a pronounced plum and berry-like flavor, mixed with an earthy, dried herb characteristic, this wine pairs well with hearty lamb stews and roasted game. —Angela Stem

“Fruit forward, soft silky tannins, rich and velvety. I love this wine with wild game.” —Bob Hurley

Grenache

Originally from Spain, this is one of the world’s most highly cultivated red-wine grapes. “A variety that can be higher in alcohol with bright flavors of raspberry, strawberry and a subtle white pepper spice. Pairs great with richer cuts of grilled meats and game, and a variety of chocolate desserts.” —Angela Stem

Malbec

This purple grape variety produces full-flavored, robust, tannic wines. Well-known in the Cahors region in France and also widely planted in Argentina. “Dark fruit, lightly spicy. Pairs well with grilled meats such as a pork rack.” —Bob Hurley

Petit Verdot

Mainly grown in Bordeaux and used in their classic blends, this full-bodied, deeply colored wine has peppery and spicy flavors. “A fairly big wine with solid tannins. Try it with rich meaty dishes and spicy foods.” —Bob Hurley

Syrah

This grape gained its reputation in the French Rhône region and matures slowly. “Rich, round, well balanced, lightly jammy dark fruit, can be complex but softer finish. Like Charbono, it goes well with wild game.” —Bob Hurley

Tempranillo

Native to northern Spain, this red-wine grape generates deep-colored wines that tend to blend well with other varieties. “This variety pairs well with oak influence, which makes it a popular grape for Napa winemakers. It can produce many different styles, ranging from lighter styles with flavors of strawberry, blackcurrant and cherry to more full-bodied styles with flavors of prune, chocolate and tobacco. This moderately tannic red is great with grilled pork chops and a variety of cured meats and sausages.” —Angela Stem

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Rebuild Phase 2 in Giving Back for Earthquake Relief

“It was pretty extraordinary to see how quickly the Napa Valley Vintners offered help, and with such compassion, at a time of great need in the community,” explains Terence

Mulligan, chief executive officer of the Napa Valley Community Foundation.

He recollects getting a call from Linda Reiff, president and CEO of Napa Valley Vintners, a day or two after the earthquake to discuss the potential of doing something in partnership. “Later that week, we were standing in front of reporters discussing the details.”

With public- and private-sector experience to his credit, Mulligan directs all asset development, community leadership and donor-engagement activities of the Napa Valley Community Foundation, through which the relief fund is managed. His entire team was struck by the generosity of the Napa Valley Vintners. Knowing upfront what they had to work with financially made their strategic efforts that much more effective. The resulting plan involves a three-step approach: recovery, rebuilding, and resiliency.

“Our first step was to meet the immediate needs of the most vulnerable in the days and weeks that followed the earthquake. We distributed $2 million to 20 different nonprofits—from food programs and family resource centers to a mental health clinic that opened its doors for free to people it doesn’t ordinarily see. We wanted to honor all their hard work and give them some money to continue to do so.” The fund also set up an emergency financial-relief program to help those in need of relocation and temporary housing, food, medicine and essential

household items lost in the quake. “We asked half a dozen of these nonprofits to be bankers for those with acute short-term needs. As a result of phase one, more than 10,000 individuals received services, and over 800 households received financial assistance.”

Mulligan points to a series of heartwarming emails and voicemails his office got from some of the recipients of that initial step—one from a young lady, Antonia Landels, that was printed as a Letter to the Editor in the Napa Valley Register. She said outreach after the earthquake reminded her why she lives in a community like Napa Valley, where everyone goes out of their way for one another. (You can read Antonia’s letter on page 30.)

The second phase is aimed at helping people get back into their homes and businesses back on their feet. “According to our most recent numbers, FEMA has distributed $8 to $10 million in grants, and the Small Business Administration issued $18 to $20 million in household and business loans. Our phase-two strategy is about filling the gaps since there has been about a 50 percent decline in SBA loans.”

With rebuilding still under way, Mulligan expects the third phase of the fund to go into effect in the near future. “When it comes to things >


Alone in her home, Janet Trefethen screamed before she physically woke up that morning at 3:20 a.m. The house was jerking in terrifying jolts. The contents of her room were being tossed around like the inside of a washing machine. “I’ve been in earthquakes before, but this one was different—it was mean and nasty; it slammed, not rolled.”

As Janet realized what was happening, her thoughts immediately went to Trefethen. In the dark, she made her way through the rubble to her truck parked outside and drove the three miles to the winery. Without power, the electric gates would not budge, and she was forced to retrace her steps and head home. She lingered by the gates, in her pajamas, her feet bleeding from broken glass. Through the shadows of the early morning light, she could just about make out the silhouette of the Eshcol Winery building, which now stood at an odd angle. Something was not quite right.

Thanks to some quick thinking on the part of Trefethen Vineyards Operation Manager Richard DeGarmo, all the circuits were turned off to minimize the chance of fire, and by the time Janet returned with her daughter Hailey less than an hour later, the gates had been opened. “We stood and stared together at the winery building. The doorframes were still standing straight but the building wasn’t. It was buckled along one side. You could imagine seeing it through the reflection of a mirror in a fun house, it was that surreal.”

Luckily, no one was hurt at the winery. And as Hailey explained, it easily could have been a lot worse. “Given the time of year, we were getting ready for the 2014 harvest, and so all of our wine had been moved out for bottling. The barrels that were stored in the Eshcol Winery building were mostly filled with water.” While they did sustain some barrel damage in the other two buildings, where all their winemaking takes place, Janet and Hailey were pleasantly surprised by just how strong those barrels were. “A few broke, but many just needed to be righted again.”

As they checked in on their own neighbors, the calls began to pour in from others. “We received so many calls from our vintner community, both far and wide,” said Janet gratefully. “Did we need space in their winery for the crush? Did we need barrels or manpower? Definitive, heart-moving outreach on their part. Not to mention calls from our wine community friends across the world.” Some vintners sent in a food truck; Meadowood brought over coffee and cookies. “We have a whole list of people and businesses who reached out to us during that very trying cleanup time,” adds Janet. Hailey pointed to the number of customers who also checked in, asking for updates and emailing photos of themselves opening up a bottle of Trefethen in solidarity. “It was very touching.” So much so, the Trefethens placed a number of the letters of support inside a damaged barrel hoop in the shape of a heart. They hung it on the north wall of their fermentation building where all their staff would collect for meals so they could read the notes as they came in.

“Certainly the Napa Valley community rallied around one another,” said Hailey. “You could see it in the streets, at intersections with no working stoplights. There was a real understanding that if you were out and about, it was for an important reason. Everyone was brought together.” First and foremost, both Janet and Hailey point to their own community of employees as stars in their own right. “Whether they have been with us for one year or 30, we are blessed to have such a close, tight winery family who all pulled together during this time.”

With a strong plan in place to maintain the Eschol Winery building’s historical landmark status, and the help of a hydraulic jack that will, inch by inch, move the building back into an upright position, Hailey explains that Trefethen is moving towards the future with a bright outlook. “Mother Nature usually throws us something in the vineyard each year,” she muses. “This time, she decided to throw something at the winery.” Their visitor center has temporarily taken up residence in a tented area, complete with windows that reveal a 180 degree view of the vineyards. “Guests love it; we call it the Conservatory. It doesn’t matter if it’s in a different spot; the bottom line is the true spirit of Trefethen always shines through.”

A MILLION THANKS FROM ONE RESIDENTOn November 7, 2014, the Napa Valley Register printed a Letter to the Editor from Napa local Antonia Landels.

“I am a young women working at a job I love for a nonprofit in Napa. But due to that I am also living a very minimal life with very little extravagance. I, like many thousands of others here, was very affected by the August earthquake. I lost many things in my home and sadly, several nice items that I did not really have the money to replace.

I went to the local assistance center and was promptly greeted by Adriana, a woman who was intelligent and warm, and quickly understood what I needed. She directed me to the staff from Napa Emergency Women’s Services, who were collecting information regarding damages people had incurred. The Napa Community Foundation has set aside a large fund to assist local residents. I returned with the paperwork a day or two later, and even though they were shutting down, they gladly accepted it. The next week, I received a call to come pick up a check.

When I got there, it was the same wonderful experience all over again. The people were all so incredibly nice, and treated everyone there with dignity and profound respect. The funds received allowed me to replace a few items I had lost so that I could feel comfortable in my home again after a long week at work.

I hope this community is aware of all the support that is out there. I cannot stress enough how grateful I am to the Community Foundation, their staff, and all the staff at the Local Assistance Center. When I called the Community Foundation to thank them, I received a call back from the president. Working for a non-profit, I know how busy our president and CEO is, so when I heard that message, I was again overcome with appreciation and gratitude. Thank you to the whole community for truly taking care of the residents.”

TO MAKE A DONATION TO EITHER OF THESE VALUABLE SERVICES, PLEASE VISIT THEIR WEBSITES:

napanews.org napavalleycf.org

like disasters, it’s a lot easier to pretend it will never happen again. Even though it is somewhat contrary to human nature to plan for, that is exactly what the resiliency step is all about: setting aside a small amount of dollars to help us be better prepared next time. This will impact not only the nonprofits who step up in a time of need but also the connective tissue between nonprofits, for-profits and the government sector, where there are always opportunities to improve communications.”

Mulligan calls the overall response to the earthquake disaster pretty amazing. “There was an incredible collaborative mode around the nonprofits and philanthropy driven by the Napa Valley Vintners through their auction proceeds in partnership with us. Having that gift in the immediate aftermath was about as close to perfect as you can imagine when dealing with a disaster of this magnitude.”

TREFETHEN VINEYARDS POST-EARTHQUAKE:

BETTER AND STRONGER

STANDING TALL IN THE WAKE OF DAMAGE, TREFETHEN ADJUSTS,

REBUILDS AND REINFORCES.


NAPA VALLEY INSIDER

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As a destination, you might come for the wine, but you’ll stay for everything else Napa Valley has to offer. Don’t just take our word for it—hear from the some of our founding

vintners. Miljenko “Mike” Grgich, 91, of Grgich Hills Estate, is famously known for being the winemaker behind the1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay that bested several white Burgundy wines in the wine-tasting event that became known as the

Judgment of Paris. John Shafer, 90, is the owner and founder of Shafer Vineyards and its award-winning wines. And Margrit Biever Mondavi, 88, wife of the late Robert Mondavi, is vice president of cultural affairs at Robert Mondavi Winery.

Favorite spot in Napa Valley?

Mike Grgich: In 1997, we purchased a vineyard above Calistoga that I first became familiar with when I was the winemaker at Chateau Montelena. Some of those Zinfandel vines here are even older than I am: more than 100 years old! I enjoyed the spectacular view of the Palisades so much that I built my home here on a hill overlooking the vineyard. I enjoy walking out onto my deck each morning to look over the vines with the background of the steep rock walls on the other side of the valley.

Margrit Biever: I live in East Napa on a hill with a splendid view of Napa Valley. My balcony has cozy chairs, the wine is good and I love to relax and meditate there.

Favorite restaurant?

John Shafer: I’m a big fan of Mustards Grill for dinner.

MB: Napa is famous for their great restaurants, and I like so many of them, but when it comes to an informal get-together with good friends, good pasta and personal attention, I like to go to Bistro Don Giovanni.

Mike Grgich

Margrit Biever Mondavi

John Shafer

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MG: When I lived just north of Yountville, I often enjoyed dinner at the now-closed Napa Valley Grill. The chef there was Bob Hurley, and when Bob started his own restaurant, Hurley’s, I naturally followed him there.

Favorite place to go for a walk?

MG: At 91 years old, I’m happy to just be able to walk at all, but when I was younger, I spent many hours exploring Robert Louis Stevenson State Park, which is not far from my home today. The rocky trails reminded me of my homeland of Croatia.

JS: There really is nothing better than a walk in the vineyards!

MB: There is a hill by my house and if I feel energetic, I go to the top where I can see the Golden Gate Bridge. For a daily short walk, you can’t beat the rustic Green Valley Road with the gnarled trees.

Where do you shop for good food?

MB: I like Vallerga’s, Whole Foods, the specialty shops inside Oxbow Market and Sunshine Market in St. Helena.

MG: I always seem to run into someone I know when I shop at Sunshine Market. It has everything you need in one spot.

JS: I’m in complete agreement. That’s where I head to as well. It’s a good place to pick up your favorite wine, bread and cheese, and see old friends at the same time.

Favorite thing to do on a Sunday afternoon in Napa?

JS: Either go for a hike in the vineyards or a little golf in the evening.

MG: I find a Sunday walk is the best way to clear your mind. I also enjoy stopping by the winery after church and greeting visitors; people from around the world come here, and I want to show them my appreciation for joining us in the tasting room.

MB: A good book and a nap for me!

Favorite non-winery related activity in Napa Valley?

JS: I enjoy sketching and sculpting.

MB: I like to paint. A painting class with artist Gail Chase-Bien ranks high.

MG: There is nothing more enjoyable than having lunch and a glass of wine with a few friends at one of our great restaurants in the valley.

Why is Napa so special in the winter months?

MG: Naturally, we see fewer guests in the winter, so tasting rooms are less busy. Everyone seems to slow down a bit, and you can really enjoy talking to people. I also love the hills surrounding the valley that turn green with the winter rains. You would think you are in Ireland, they become so vivid!

JS: Exactly. Moving here from Chicago in January of 1973, one of the first big surprises was how green the winters are here. I also find that

nothing goes better with the long, cold nights than the rich red wines of this region.

MB: I especially love the tail end of winter, when the vineyards are golden with mustard flowers in February.

What performing arts do you recommend in Napa Valley?

MB: Well, I started the Robert Mondavi Summer Festival in ‘69 so, of course, I love it all, but I find the Festival del Sole (festivaldel sole.org) is exceptionally beautiful.

MG: Wine and music are two of God’s gifts to humans, and they seem to go together so well. My daughter, Violet, works with me in the winery, but she also earned a master’s degree in harpsichord so we usually have a couple of concerts that feature her and a small group of musicians. We always try to include a little music at any of our wine club events and our annual Blessing of the Grapes when we celebrate the start of harvest.

JS: I enjoy chamber music (chambermusicnapa.org) in the fall and winter, and Music in the Vineyards (musicinthevine yards.org), which occurs in the summer months.

Some of your favorite vineyards to visit—besides your own?

MG: I will always have a place in my heart for the Robert Mondavi Winery, where I was the winemaker for Mr. Mondavi from 1968 to 1972. When I worked there, the atmosphere was exciting with Robert bringing in new thinking, new equipment and new energy. Everyone was working together, and I felt it was a new dawn for winemaking in California. Robert saw the real potential of Napa Valley, and he was a tremendous promoter.

MB: Continuum on Pritchard Hill is very special to me.

JS: I have always enjoyed visiting our neighbors in the Stags Leap District appellation.

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