out on a limb (issue 56)

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02 Sirco 26/11/09 13:31 Page 1

ISSUE 56 DECEMBER 2009/JANUARY 2010

News

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KEEPING customers interestedand buying when money istight can be a challenge, butthis autumn several bigbrands have been keepingthings fresh by seeking outnew design talent.

The winner of the HushPuppies Shoeperstarcompetition has beenannounced and footweardesign novice Laura Berry willnow be seeing her creationput into production and soldat Schuh stores nationwide.

E-tailer VivaLaDiva has alsobeen searching for a new starand, after a lengthy publicvote and judging process,Gary Lenaghan has beennamed as its winningdesigner.

It is hoped that public interestin the competitions will helpthe brands and their stockistsincrease sales, as well assupporting the up andcoming designers of thefuture.

This issue Out On A Limbspeaks to two brothers whoset themselves the challengeof bringing the latest men’sfashion footwear to themarket town of Bolton andhears from a series ofindustry experts about theirthoughts on the future ofselling in 2010.

Retailers are being advised tolearn the lessons of the lastyear or face theconsequences.

A spike of failures is expectedin the New Year, but it ishoped that this will bring awelcome reduction incompetitive pressure forthose that make it through.

Brandskeepthingsfresh ...

End of tariffs could savecustomers £330m a yearSHOE shop customers could save upto £330m a year on leather shoeswith the end of tariffs imposed bythe European Union.

A crucial vote by EU member stateshas taken place on whether toextend levies on footwear sourcedfrom China and Vietnam resulting in15 votes against extension, ten infavour and two abstained.

This means that, if the Commissiontakes the member states’ views intoaccount, the duties should end.

Richard Kottler, the British FootwearAssociation’s chief executive, said:

“Our message is that member states,having carefully considered the factsand despite considerable pressurefrom the European Commission,have arrived at a common sense anddemocratic decision.

“We look to the Commission tohandle any further debate on thisissue in an even handed andobjective manner. It is now up to theCommission to decide whether itwants to push the issue further upthe political tree.”

The EU originally introduced theduties on Chinese and Vietnamese

footwear in 2006 to protectuncompetitive producers, mainly inItaly and Spain.

However, despite EU promises thatthe tariffs would only last for twoyears, in 2008 they were extendedby a further 15 months and therewas a possibility the duties could befurther extended by as much asanother 30 months.

The Commission has not yet given itsofficial confirmation that the dutieswill end, but has said that the finaldecision will be announced onDecember 22 2009.

Award-winning shoe designer Marsha Hall isopening an exclusive handmade shoeboutique in Surrey. In addition to her rangeof made-to-measure shoes, Marsha alsospecialises in unique designs and can alsomake shoes designed by her customers.

The Shop will also showcase custom-madehandbags, shoe accessories and shoe dyingservices, as well as introducing Marsha’stwo day practical workshops where peoplecan make their own pair of shoes.Marsha said: “I want the boutique to give

more people the opportunity to see andexperience the world of hand made, couturefootwear.“I’m so excited about the opening and amreally keen to meet people and show themwhat we do.”

IMPOSING a compulsory bag chargein Wales is not the way to producelasting change in consumerbehaviour, according to the BritishRetail Consortium.

Following the Welsh AssemblyGovernment’s confirmation that itwill be going ahead with a bagcharge, the BRC has announcedthat, while it shares thegovernment’s aim of reducing bagusage, it believes the best way toachieve lasting change is to educatecustomers, not penalise them.

The BRC supports a voluntaryapproach, and this year announced

that this method has halved thenumber of single use bags used bysupermarket customers betweenMay 2006 and May 2009.

Tom Ironside, BRC businessenvironment director, said: "It's reallydisappointing the Welsh AssemblyGovernment has ignored thefantastic results in reducing bag useclearly demonstrated by Welshcustomers and retailers.

"Education and encouragement,rather than compulsion, is the bestway to achieve lasting customerchange.

“For some reason bags have been

seized on as a symbol of our use ofresources, despite their relatively lowenvironmental impact.

"By introducing a bag charge, Walesbecomes the first country in the UKto impose extra charges on shoppersat a time when they're alreadyfeeling the pinch. This will especiallyhit low-income families.

"I'm glad the WAG has listened tous over the light-touch regulation ofthe bag charge and so have shelvedplans to introduce a third-party tocollect the bag charge. Otherwisethe costs of doing so wouldultimately be borne by customers."

Disappointment over Welsh bag charge

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Contents Issue 56 December 09/January 10

Shoes made for comfort

Getting a kick out of ‘shoelery’

Bolton’s appetite for Solefood

Choo’s chosen one

Designer duo mean business

Rising to the Moda challenge

Looking ahead to Pure

What’s going on and when

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6

8

9

14

15

24

30

SalesTony Barry - Sales & Marketing Director

Beverley Green - Sales Manager([email protected])

Advertising ContactsTel: 01226 734333 | Fax: 01226 734477

EditorialAndrew Harrod - Group Editor

Judith Halkerston - Group Deputy Editor

Louise Cordell - Editor

Christina Eccles - Reporter

Mary Ferguson - Reporter

Editorial ContactsTel: 01226 734694 | Fax: 01226 734705Email: [email protected]

Design & ProductionStewart Holt - Studio Manager([email protected])

Kyle Wilkinson - Design & Production([email protected])

Circulation01226 734695 (24 hour hotline)Email: [email protected]

Step by step in comfortable shoesMEPHISTO was founded in 1965 bythe German shoemaker MartinMichaeli with a single goal – “Tomake the world’s most comfortablewalking shoe”. The company’s world headquartersand original factory is located inSarrebourg, France. The brand has become increasinglyestablished over the years despitechanges in fashion trends and is stillpraised for its quality, comfort and

design criteria. Mephisto shoesare now sold inover 70 countriesworldwide.Mephistoproduces fourbrands and arange of 700styles to suit

various tastes of consumers indifferent markets worldwide.

Mephisto men and women shoesoffer high quality materials, moderndesign and a unique fit.

With Mobils the company is wellestablished in the wellness andcomfort shoe market.

AllRounder is the Mephisto brand foryoung and trendy functionalfootwear. The latest newcomer is thebrand Sano with a wide range offitness shoes.

The company boasts an impressive18,000 customers worldwide, 140agents and makes 85 per cent of itssales abroad.

Since the first concept store 20 yearsago in France, Mephisto hascollaborated with an ever increasingnumber of independent retailers in

the form of the Mephisto Concept Store (MCS); a truly unique partnership of its kind.

This partnership has resulted in thecreation of over 700 MephistoConcept Stores, spread on nearlyevery continent.

These partners, often owning morethan one MCS, have become thebest ambassadors for the brand andin the process reap the benefits oftheir initial investments.

For further information, visitwww.mephisto.com or contact: MEPHISTO

S.A. Rte. Sarreguemines

57400 Sarrebourg

COVER STORY

NEWS

RETAIL REVIEW

SPOTLIGHT

NEWS

NEWS

PREVIEW

DIARY DATES

Mephisto headquarters

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News


A NEW fashion website haslaunched with a range of ‘shoelery’– accessories to transform yourshoes.

OnceUponaBelt.com offers a rangeof accessories in various styles fromdiamante or lacework to blackleather with studs, to decorateshoes, creating a selection ofdifferent looks.

Site founder Marta Eleniak createdthe collection in order to givewomen the opportunity toaccessorise their existing shoecollection with a quick and easytransformation.

She said: “I loved the sexy shoedesigns with big ankle cuffs thatare in fashion at the moment, but Ihave wide feet and so find itdifficult to find a pair that aren’tpainful to wear.

“So I thought, why not create aseparate belt for the ankles, and

the idea grew from there.

“The range nowincludes anklecorsets, belts andchains and someare limited edition,following the site’sethos of providingcustomers with thechance to ownsomethingbeautiful andunique.”

Her aim was to give women a wayto update the comfortable shoesthat they already own withaccessories that echo the latestfashions.

However, when researching thefootwear add-on market, Martafound that the term ‘shoelery’ wasalready being used by the recentlylaunched UK footwear accessory

designer brand Bluff NY.

She added: “I was obviouslydisappointed that I wasn’t the firstto have the idea but their shoeleryproduct range had many stunningdesigns also brilliant for boots,which would sit well alongside theshoelery I was commissioning.

“So I contacted Bluff NY toinvestigate their products further

and this presented me with anunexpected business opportunity.”

She has now become the sole UKonline stockist of Bluff NY shoeleryas well as their UK agent, sellingthe products to stores around thecountry, and has now exhibited theaccessories at London FashionWeek’s ‘A La Mode’ independentcatwalk show.

Getting a kick out of ‘shoelery’

A new range of customisable ballet flats havebeen launched by Switchflops.The pumps are available in three colours andare accompanied by a range of 12interchangeable, decorative ‘snaps’ for thetoe.The designs are already available in the USand have gained celebrity fans including Myaand Jennifer Love Hewitt.The Switchflops ballet pumps will bedistributed in the UK by Pelham LeatherGoods.

‘Sensational’ salesprompts expansionTHE Mountain Boot Company hasannounced a structural expansionfollowing a substantial increase insales.

The group now plans to revise andre-invest in both its salesrepresentation and service/distribution centre.

Steve Roberts, managing director,said: “Sales out in 2009 have beennothing short of sensational. Butdespite the growth, we still seehuge blue sky opportunities in allbrands and with a strong desire tomaintain and enhance service levels,we have elected to invest in ourinfrastructure, recognising thatwhat took us to this point and wasstretched in the process, will not besufficient to take us to our nextgoals.”

The company’s sales will now bedivided into two divisions, multi-sport and outdoor, with the existingsales team taking up more brandtargeted roles.

Additional personnel will bebrought in to cover Ireland andScotland and the service anddistribution centre will take on adedicated purchasing manager andadditional customer service.

Steve added: “The new structure isdesigned to optimise each brandand provide the highest level ofsupport for our retailers, not just inthe field, but throughout the supplychain.

“It is about investing in bandwidthfor all our teams, allowing us todevelop the systems and structureto take the business forward.”

THE latest design from football bootmanufacturer Nomis has been voted theMost Outrageous Football Boot of 2009.

The new NXGen Spark is the first bootto be made with the capability for highresolution designs to be applied directlyonto the leather and was named as thecompetition winner by www.footy-boots.com.

The first edition has been produced inorange, yellow and black on softkangaroo leather, combined with thelatest sporting technologies.

Glenn Joyce, Nomin UK chief executive,said: “We are delighted that our veryfirst boot has caught the imagination offooty-boots.com users.

“That’s exactly what we wanted – thefirst edition was designed to beoutrageous and to get people talking.

“Until now only boots made ofsynthetic materials would be able tohave this freedom of design, but thisinnovation opens up many newopportunities, from producing boots byleading designers to tuning into specificthemes or special events.”

Football boot nets mostoutrageous of 2009 award

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Ollie and Zoe Gilbertson

£75k investmentboost for artisticOllie and ZoeBy Louise Cordell

A COMPANY that has come up witha new way of customising sneakershas received backing from aninvestment fund.

Sneakart was created by husbandand wife team, Ollie and ZoeGilbertson to make shoecustomisation easy using transferablesticker artwork.

Now, the Design and Creative Fundis supporting the business with a£75,000 investment so that the teamcan market their brand and launchinternational distribution.

Zoe said: “Our initial idea forSneakart came about while trying to

find an easy way for people tocustomise their trainers. We sawthere weren’t any easy options;producing customised shoes as amanufacturer relied on expensivetechnology and to do it yourselfrequires time and artistic skill.

“As designers ourselves, we wantedto bring shoe lovers and artiststogether to share and promote their talent and ideas to the benefitof all. We’ve spent years racking ourbrains, trying, testing and developinga way that will allow the stickers tostay on a shoe, in the roughest ofweather, and now we’ve nailed it,we’re confident to get our productout there.”

Replica ‘sweating foot’created to test breathabilityA NEW replica ‘sweating foot’ hasbeen created to help test women’sand children’s footwear forbreathability and comfort.

SATRA Technology Centre developedthe device as part of its comforttesting programme and has nowproduced a new smaller sizedcomponent to help test and gradedifferent shoes sizes more effectively.

The new moulded foot is based on aUK size four, in comparison toprevious ‘feet’ which are based onsizes seven and nine, and will beused by manufacturers around the

world to help develop footwear thatstays dry and keeps the feet at acomfortable temperature.

The Advanced MoistureManagement Test uses the heatedand ‘breathing’ foot form to simulatea realistic in-shoe environment. Thiscreate a picture of how much sweathas been absorbed into each part ofthe footwear system and how muchhas permeated into the atmosphere.These results can then help themanufacturer make a decision onwhether or not to make adjustmentsto the footwear design and thematerials used in production.

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Retail review


AFTER 15 years working in retail forbig brands, Luke Hudson was keento take matters into his own hands.

So he teamed up with brother Danielto open Solefood, a men’s fashionand footwear store stocking namesincluding Nike, Reebok, Converse,Vans and Onitsuka Tiger.

The Bolton shop opened in February2009 and, following an enthusiasticcustomer response, a correspondingretail website was launched soonafterwards.

Luke said: “When opening up thestore our main aim was to bring thelatest styles to a provincial town.

“I loved the idea of providing oneplace when a guy could see thelatest styles and get an entire outfitand matching shoes and we chooseall the stock carefully to make sure itcoordinates so they can do that ifthey want.

“We try to be different from otherstores – for example we keep afridge full of beers and fizzy drinksso that we can create a relaxing,friendly atmosphere for people whoare browsing and looking to spend.

“We have also set up a Friends ofSolefood scheme to get our regularcustomers involved in the social sideof things – going out for drinks andmeals together, which wouldn’t bepossible for a bigger store in a biggertown.”

The store has now started stockingwomen’s footwear and accessories aswell, just nine months after opening.

It had always been a possibility, butthe development was broughtforward after an increasing numberof women visited the shop, asking ifthey had any ladies’ styles available.

Luke added: “We felt that by onlycatering for men we were missingout on 50 per cent of potentialcustomers, and there was so muchdemand that we decided to go for itsooner than we had planned.

“The range is fairly small at themoment, but is constantly growingand, similarly to the men’s shoes, weare aiming to provide a wide pricerange so that there is something foreveryone.”

Currently around 60 per cent of thecompany’s profit comes from storesales and the rest comes from onlinebusiness, however, Luke has seen theonline takings increase rapidly overthe last few months and predictsthat it will soon overtake the shopfor earnings.

He also plans to expand the range ofaccessories like bags, belts and hats,in both the men’s and women’sranges to increase secondary spendboth in store and through internetsales.

Luke added: “We need a highturnover to keep people comingback regularly, so we are quite selectabout what we buy.

“It is important for independents likeours to have a point of difference, sowe are always searching for new andunique things to stock, and we alsomake sure that we are working withbrands that aren’t common in thearea.

“At first it was a challenge to getbigger names on board, but as wehave become more well known, wenow have brands coming to us tostock their products, and we can pickand choose what works best for thestore.

“We also do a mix of forward andshort ordering – I think it isimportant for stores to be confidentin their buying decisions and notleave everything to the last minute,but on the other hand, it is alsogood to have an element of flexibilityso that you can adapt to trendswhen something is selling well.”

Luke and Daniel are now developingplans to open a second storebuilding on the success of Solefood,keeping to their formula ofcombining a small town locationwith the best new products.

Independent store Solefoodhas been opened by twobrothers with the intentionof bringing the best men’sfashion and footwear toBolton. Out On A Limbfound out more.

Bolton’s appetite for Solefood

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A FINAL year footwear design studentfrom Leicester’s De Montfort University haswon a day working with world famousshoe guru Jimmy Choo.The celebrity designer visited the universityto pass on first hand advice to studentstrying to break into the footwear industry. I Cheng Lin won a full-day workshop atThe Jimmy Choo Couture House inLondon, where she will spend the day withJimmy himself.She said: “It hasn’t really sunk in yet that Iam going to spend a day with one of theworld’s most iconic shoe designers. “This is an opportunity any aspiringfootwear designer would dream of, so I’mreally thrilled that I have been given thechance to gain firsthand experience fromsomeone who has been so successfulwithin the industry. This will be a learningexperience I’ll never forget and I’m certain Iwill take away with me some invaluableadvice that will help launch my career as ashoe designer.”I Cheng Lin was chosen for her promiseshown in footwear design and herexemplary studentship and Jimmy said:“We want to give her the idea how of thewhole process of couture works from startto finish. We will show her what isimportant with the care of the client, and

right through every stage of design andcreating.”Jimmy was also shown work by IsabelProctor and Ian Burgess, who bothgraduated from DMU this summer.Isabel, 22, showed four items of footwearfrom her final major project, VictorianRomance and said: “I showed Jimmy myfinal year designs which includes two flatladies pumps with pointed toes, a highheeled shoe boot and a men’s formal laceup shoe. It has been really exciting tomeet Jimmy Choo and he has given somegreat advice which I have found inspiringand I’m sure will be of a huge benefit tome as I take the next steps in my career."Ian showed three designs from hiscollection including a white knee-highboot; a red and black ankle boot and ablack sandal decorated with a metalknuckleduster – all of which incorporateinternal platforms and heels.He said: “Meeting Jimmy Choo has givenme a real insight into the world of thefootwear industry and how to make it as asuccessful designer. His attention to detailhas been an inspiration to so manydesigners in both the footwear and fashionindustries, so it has been a great privilegeto meet him and show him some of myvery own work.” Jimmy Choo at De Montfort University

Choo chooses studentto win workshop spot

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News


Choo collectionaimed at cool,young customersJIMMY Choo’s collaboration with H&M is set to land in stores thismonth with shoes, clothes and accessories on offer.

The collection features details such as crystals,studs and animal prints and will be stocked inaround 200 stores worldwide.

Tamara Mellon, Jimmy Choo president, said:“The Jimmy Choo collection for H&M is full offun, one-off items with an accessible andglamorous identity made with stylish materials,emphasised with colour and embellishment.

“I wanted to create pieces that would reach acool and young customer with a fashionable andindependent sense of spirit in this one-offcollaboration."

Footwear styles include everything from high heelsand thigh high boots to gladiator flats and balletpumps and even a cropped Cuban-heel boot.

They are joined by accessories like evening clutchesand larger day bags, belts which are studded andwide, or long enough for a triple wrap and chokernecklaces, bracelets, cuffs and earrings.

Margareta van den Bosch, creative advisorat H&M, said: “This AutumnJimmy Choo brings vitalityand sexy glamour to H&M.

“I love the really highstrappy sandals with lots ofdecoration and attitude.

“Tamara Mellon always shows heramazing shoes with equally amazingclothes, and we wanted to offer ourcustomers a complete collection –including men's shoes and clothestoo. I think this collection suitsanyone with a flair for fashionand high heels.”

‘Footweardemand setto speed up’By Louise CordellONCE the recession is over, demandfor footwear is set to speed up,according to a new report. ‘Footwear’ a study from marketintelligence provider Key Note, claimsthat the industry is currentlysaturated, having grown in line withconsumer spending and so will sufferin a tough economic climate.However, it points out that anyproblems the market is like toexperience will then be compensatedfor by faster growth in the followingyears. It claims: “Footwear wears outrelatively quickly and consumers whocurb their spending in 2009 are likelyto purchase replacement shoes whenthe recession is over.“The value of the UK market forfootwear reached a record high ofjust over £7bn in 2008 as consumersreaped the benefits of decliningprices on the high street.

“In the current recession, however,consumers are cutting back on non-essential spending and this is likely tohave a short-term negative impacton the market for footwear.

“However the forecast is that it willrecover well in 2010, and showoverall growth of over 17 per centover the 2009 to 2013 reviewperiod.”

The report also predicts thatfollowing the popularity of ‘faddish’footwear in the early 2000s, comingyears are likely to see a more seriousapproach.

Predictions for successful futurebrands include those that claim to be‘good for the feet’ such as thosewith shock absorbing footbeds andthose that invest in an eco-friendlyapproach, for example Nike andother trainer manufacturers thathave started producing ‘green’trainers in order to challengeenvironmental criticism.

Joanne takes design awardTHE footwear industry charity,Footwear Friends, has held its thirdannual Designer Awards Evening atthe Geffrye Museum in London. The awards are aimed at helpingyoung footwear entrepreneurs whoare developing or launching theirbusinesses and prizes include bothfinancial support and mentoringfrom industry experts.The winner of the Designer Awardwas Joanne Stoker, who graduatedfrom the London College of Fashionthis year and who has already won anumber of high-profile designawards. The award will help with thedevelopment of her first collection,which will make its debut at LondonFashion Week in February.Georgina Goodman, one of thepanel judges, said: “Joanne displayeda grounded, realistic attitude linkedwith heaps of natural talent and

ambition – a great combination.” The Joe Meltzer Travel Award wasbeen won by Darren Murphy –creator of a business called HandMade Trainers, which he is currentlydeveloping further. He is also planning a work place withsix stations for use by up-and-comingdesigners. Judge Tracey Neuls added: “Darrenhas that rare combination of passionfor footwear and a strongcommercial plan to make money outof that passion.”Finally, a new award was introducedto recognise the contribution Britishdesigners make on the internationalstage. This year it was decided that twoaspiring designer brands, RakishHeels, owned by Lona Jones and Velvet Bee, owned by Rebecca Abrahams, would share theaward.

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Firms need to‘learn lessonof 2009’AS we come to the end of aturbulent 2009 for UK footwear,industry analysts Plimsoll have takena look back at the last 12 monthsand looked forward to the threatsand opportunities facing the marketin 2010.

David Pattison, senior analyst, said:“Having clung on through the badtimes, many struggling companiesare going to run out of time and failjust before the recovery really takeshold.

“Sadly, some of them are just tooweak to carry on and there will be aspike of failures in the New Year.

“On the flipside, their demise willbring a welcome reduction incompetitive pressure for those left.

“However, among the gloom, anumber of companies have managedto improve their performance. Theyare part of a band of companies thatprove success can still be achieved inthe industry despite difficult tradingconditions. They also prove that badcompanies fail in a recession andgood companies simply do not.

“These companies will lead theindustry out of recession with somesmart acquisitions and maintainingtheir recent success.”

David also believes that the market isdue for a prolonged period ofconsolidation with the number ofcompanies in trouble leading toheightened takeover activity.

He points out that with manycompanies chasing weakeneddemand, it is inevitable that thereare likely to be a number of highprofile mergers.

David also has a warning for recklesscompanies that continue to chasesales despite mounting losses.

He added: “There are a group ofserial loss makers still operating inthe market. For the second and eventhird year running these companieshave made a loss. Whether they areblatantly chasing sales or just tryingto maintain their market share,something has to give.

“The recession has put prudenceback at the forefront of boardroomstrategy and these companies haveto cut their cloth accordingly or facethe consequences.

“If businesses are going to make asuccess of 2010, they need to learnthe lesson of 2009. There are goingto be big changes in the industrywith lots of takeovers, a number ofhigh profile failures and even theodd surprise or two along the way.”

The spring/summer 2010 collection from Peter Kaiserhas been on show at this year’s Kensington Shoe Event.Rolf Buhr, chief UK sales executive, said: “This showsaw Peter Kaiser extend its UK foothold followingexhibitions at GDS and Micam.“The range includes key trends for next seasonincluding suede, platforms, peep toe designs and frilly trims.“The company is now planning to roll out its new ‘Shop in Shop’ concept which has already been tested in Germany and provides retailers with more support as well as great footwear.”

Dow Europe samples releasedA NEW range of test samples for thefootwear industry have been releasedby Dow Europe. The company has come up with arange of developmental compoundsdesigned to support molders makingparts for the industry. They have been created forproducers of foamed parts for highend sports shoes, plastic shoes, flip

flops and walking boots and aim toprovide lighter weight materials withbetter comfort and durability. An XTD range has also been createdto offer producers of exterior solesfor fashion and sports shoesperformance and benefits similar tovulcanized rubber, but with the costand processing advantages of athermoplastic.

11 26/11/09 12:11 Page 1

What doeshappy looklike to you?A NEW comfort shoe range has been

launched which is fashionable, exciting

and vibrant and yet is engineered to aid

posture and give relief to those on their

feet all day.

The brand is called Alegria and its

philosophy is Happiness For The Feet.

It is the latest name to be launched in

the UK and Ireland by Silentnight

Footwear and the shoes have a mild

rocker outsole to tone muscles, take

away the impact from heels and mid foot

and support the feet.

The designs also feature an anatomically

correct, removable foot bed with arch

support to provide a customised fit.

They come with an extra depth insole

which contours to the foot with a

memory foam and cork bed which is fully

removable for custom orthotics yet slots

in perfectly to maintain stability.

The fusion of comfort and style is truly

remarkable and unique with its choice of

fun materials and colours. The shoes are

designed for women of a wide age group

who demand a lot from their shoes but

also require fun and total comfort as

well as style.

Silentnight Footwear will be stocking the

original Classic clog in six colours as well

as the cute looking Paloma bar shoe.

The three sandals in the range will also

come in colours such as bronze, paisley

and quirky scribble patterns.

The shoes also come in plain colours but

it is clear that the sales are driven by

the new emerging brights and fun

orientated patterns which stems from

the ‘Happy’ element of this brand.

The launch in January 2010 is set to

establish the brand very quickly in the

UK market as the latest advertising has

created a demand in advance.

Silentnight Footwear will be showing

the brand at Pure and Moda in

February, displaying the latest

autumn/winter collections including

boots which retain the fun element of

the brand.

Alegria prides itself on its durability of

wear over a long time which has enabled

the brand to gain huge credibility in the

notoriously difficult USA market.

They are certainly one to watch out for

in 2010.

For more information please contactSilentnight Footwear on:

0044 (0) 1536 407722 or email

[email protected]

12-13 Silent Night 27/11/09 12:55 Page 1

Alegria means happiness and

it is our belief that shoes

should make you happy.

Alegria believes in colour

therapy and that colours

can make you happy from

the inside out.

Alegria believes in the

combination of funky fashion

and die hard comfort.

Alegria believes that shoes

should benefit the wellness

of your body.

**

**

Alegria’s unique mild rocker outsole is designed to induce naturalwalking motion and encourage correct gait and posture whileminimising heel and central metatarsal pressure.

The Alegria foot bed is anatomically shaped to mimic the naturalcontours of the foot to provide the right support.

Memory foam, latex and cork underneath the suede lining providesuperior cushioning for years, not just days, and the footbed isremovable to allow for the insertion of custom orthotics.

From patent finishes to metallic prints, from soft natural leather tofunky artwork, they are also available in a colour for every mood.

The secrets of Alegria

12-13 Silent Night 27/11/09 12:56 Page 2

News


TWO London College of Fashiondesigners have won a competition tohelp them start up their own retailbusiness.

The First into Fashion winners – shoedesigner, Joanne Stoker, andwomenswear designer, Julia Smith –will receive a rent-free retail unit forsix months in Connaught Villagenear Oxford Street and Jimmy Chooacting as their mentor.

Julia and Joanne had to beat offcompetition from some of London’stop fashion talent to win the prize,

but were chosen by judges includingJimmy Choo and Melanie Rickey,Grazia’s fashion editor, for theirquality designs and business acumen.

The competition, organised byLondon College of Fashion and theChurch Commissioners, who ownthe store, was intended to help thecapital's fashion graduates enter theindustry. The shop will now open at4 Porchester Place and will bestocked with Julia’s ethical dressesand tailored coats and Joanne’sbespoke shoes.

A Joanne Stokerdesign

Designer duo win helpto start own business

Footwear amongbiggest losers – new report By Louise Cordell

CHRISTMAS shoppers are set tospend the same amount this year asthey did in 2008, but risingunemployment and taxes will taketheir toll on 2010 sales, according toa new report.

Consumer research from Deloitte hasrevealed that clothing and footwearretailers will be among the biggestlosers with 45 per cent of peoplespending less on these productscompared with 12 months ago.

In the report, the business advisoryfirm predicts that retail sales will riseby 0.5 per cent in December, despitethe current economic conditions, butare set to fall by 1.5 per cent for thewhole of 2010.

It also reveals that supermarkets havetaken over from traditional highstreet chains as the country’s biggestfashion retailers.

Tarlok Teji, Deloitte’s UK head ofretail, said: “The increasing numberof budget or own label products hasbeen a winner for the supermarketswho have taken over from highstreet chains when it comes toclothing retail.

“Now, more than ever, non-foodretailers need to focus on therelevance of their products and

differentiation from theircompetitors.”

The report concludes that the way inwhich consumers shop has changedfor the long term, and that morecautious, ‘smart shoppers’ are whatretailers need to be catering for.

Richard Hyman, strategic retailadviser to Deloitte, said: “Retailersacross the industry will need to focuson improving their selling andcustomer service skills.

“The past decade has not alwaysrequired retailers to excel in this area,but that has changed.

“In some cases, retail portfolios needurgent attention following a periodwhere the pursuit of floor spacewithout rigorous customer insighthas left many retailers with poorperforming branches.

“There are opportunities too though.Cross-border retailing has alwaysproved difficult but the saturatedmarket at home means that thegrowth of emerging economies is acompelling prospect.

“Retailers are also well positioned toexploit their brand value bybroadening their product and serviceoffering.”

Shop was madefor walking ...A MOBILE shopping boutiqueselling shoes and handbags hasopened up in Edinburgh.

Fiona Robertson has set up ShoesGlorious Shoes and travels aroundthe area hosting shoe parties inwomen’s homes, at businessoffices and at charity fundraisingevents.

She said: “For many women shoesare their vice and their passion,and one in two women own morethan 30 pairs of shoes.

“So what better way is there toshop for shoes and handbagsthan at home with friends and aglass of wine.

“Most women want somethingdifferent to what they see on thehigh street, but don’t want to paythe earth, so that’s what weprovide.”

The shoes are sources fromindustry fairs in Milan, Paris andMadrid and party hosts are ableto earn product discounts forthemselves and their guests.

Conference looks at‘challenge and opportunity’‘CHALLENGE and Opportunity’ wasthe theme for SATRA’s recent 90thanniversary conference andrepresentatives from the footwearand leather industries attended todiscuss the changing globalmarketplace.

Guest speaker Johs Knudsen,ECCO’s vice president businessdevelopment, opened the eventwith a talk on how completeownership of the supply chain canbe turned into a competitiveadvantage as it enables quickreaction to retail demand.

Pittards CEO, Reg Hankey, thenhighlighted how maintaining asource of good quality material wasa global challenge and raised thefact that, following the recession,there could be five million fewercattle hides available in the coming12 months.

Lesley Roberts, director corporateresponsibility at Pentland Group,explored a variety of ethical issues,including how climate change willaffect the amount of available

leather, and how synthetic materialsrequire considerable amounts ofenergy to produce.

Finally, DESMA’s general manager,Klaus Freese, discussed whethershoe production will move back toUSA and Europe and proposed thatthe application of moderntechnology, production and qualitycontrol at source will meancompetitive footwear productionanywhere in the world.

The conference closed with aquestion and answer session andthe conclusion reached by bothpanel and delegates was that theindustry probably isn't currentlyinvesting enough in research andinnovation to turn challenge intoopportunity.

SATRA’s research team leader, JohnHubbard said: “Investment ininnovation will provide the futureproducts that future markets willdemand. The whole supply chainhas collective responsibility forconsumer needs and futuregenerations.”

New tradeevent setto launchA NEW footwear trade event, FNPlatform, is set to launch in Februaryat the Magic Marketplace in LasVegas.

Over 600 men’s, women’s andchildren’s footwear brands will beexhibited as part of the joint venturebetween Fairchild Fashion Group,Advanstar Communications andFootwear News.

Chris DeMoulin, president of MagicInternational, said: “We saw anopportunity to expand our existingfootwear presence with FN Platformby providing footwear brands andbuyers with the opportunity to growand prosper in an environment thatsuits their needs.

“The Magic Marketplace aims toprovide a 360 degree view of what ishappening in the fashion industryand expanding to create FN Platformis a natural evolution.”

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15

Moda is teaming up with DeMontfort University for a projectwhich will see shoe designscreated by the most talentedstudents on the catwalk inFebruary 2010. Final yearfootwear students have beenchallenged by Moda to createdesigns that bring the history ofthe British Footwear industry intothe 21st century with ‘Heritage’ – abespoke project which is includedas part of their studies. Designsfrom pupils on the BA (Hons)Footwear Design course will thenbe judged by an industry panel andthe six best will be presented atthe Moda Footwear show. Kevin Guildford, head of footwearand DMU, said: “This project is achance for students to show theirdesigns in front of a huge industryaudience which will open upfantastic opportunities for them.”

Micaela O’Flaherty“I wanted to capture a sense ofBritish eccentricity and collectedtogether images of anything thatseemed to convey a sense of‘British-ness’ to me.

“I experimented with a lot ofdifferent shapes, forms andtextures and have taken ideasfrom everything from rich fabriccolours to interior designpatterns.

“The project is a greatopportunity to pursue ideas that you are really enthusiastic aboutand, if my design ends up going to Moda, then it could be achance to get my work seen by a lot of big names in the industry.”

Students rise to Moda challenge

“My ideas were based on the concept ofmoving through time and so my inspirationwas images and ideas that were flowing andlinear.

“I wanted to represent this by using a fadepattern on the leather and ended up creating

my own as I wasn’t able to find what Iwanted commercially.

“My aim was to use the ‘Heritage’ title as astarting point, but then take this forward andend up with a design that had an overallclean and modern look as well.”

Katie Sullivan

“I am interested in the history and heritage of couturefashion and wanted to bring a lot of luxurious elementsinto my design.

“I also took inspiration from Byzantine art and architectureby incorporating fine and complex detailing.

“I have chosen rich and royal colours and am combiningthis with built in jewels to complete the sumptuous effect.

“I decided to create a boot to fit in with theautumn/winter 2010 collections that will be showing atModa, and also to give me more scope to create aneyecatching design.”

Heidi Henderson

“I decided to put a twist on the ‘Heritage’ theme andhave created my designs around vintage Americana.

“For inspiration I looked at everything from roughand ready saddlery leathers to the design concept ofa Ford Shelby GT 500.

“I have incorporated vents to echo those in the carand panels of snakeskin and ‘Cobra’ branding tocreate a cowboy effect.

“My aim is to combine form and function and end upwith a high end fashion shoe that is also great towear.”

David Mawdsley

“When I was looking into ‘Heritage’ I was immediatelyinterested in the impact that different time periods have onthe fashions of the day.

“I decided to base my shoe around the psychedelic sixtiesand started bringing in different elements of colour andlight to represent the era.

“I wanted to keep the overall effect subtle so I havecreated flashes of colour beneath the shoe leather andincorporated a light reflecting jewel into the heel.”

Sophie Wrenn

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Accessories


FROM the country that invented'amore', Pavoni, the hit brand ofItalian leather bags and accessories,is launching its Valentine's collectionwith a special offer, so yourcustomers can have all the romanceof Italy in the currency of arm candy.

With four limited edition styles –cosmetic party bag, evening dinnerbag, weekender bag, dress belt –and a choice of three colours –red passion, pink satin, blackseduction – the Valentine'spackages are made up ofselections of eightor 12 pieces,startingfrom just£295 andwith freepieces.

Designed andmanufactured inAbbruzzo on Italy’seast coast, the VittoriaPavoni name has gained nationalpopularity amongst the country’sglamorous and fashion-savvyshoppers and is set to bring a touchof Italian chic to Britain, starting withits SS10 collection.

Albena Taneva, Pavoni designer andmanaging director, said: “Italy is wellknown for its romance and we'veincorporated that feel into this

limited edition Valentine's collection.

“The discounted packages mean thatthere's real value to

be added inoffering these

pieces tocustomers.”

Visit www.vittoriaipavoni.com for moreinformation. Pavoni is distributed in the UK

by Beverley Amery, call: 077388 77117 or e-mail: [email protected].

Collection brings romanceof Italy to arm candy

THE organisers of the ChicExhibition, have announced that theJanuary show – the first fashionaccessories trade show for 2010 –will have a brand new look.

The Chic Exhibition is aiming to offerbuyers a more glamorous andluxurious buying experience than atprevious shows.

The event will take place fromJanuary 10-12 and will showcase thebiggest names in the luggage andhandbag industry as well as

collections of jewellery, scarves,gloves, umbrellas, hats and shoes.

It has been timed to take place atthe beginning of the retail sellingseason, allowing retailers to buystock as they need it and replenishspecific product areas that arerunning low.

It aims to take the guess work out ofbuying ahead by providing access toemerging trends that have emergedsince the start of the wholesalebuying season.

Chic aiming for moreglamorous experience

BELTS are fast becoming Britain’smost in-demand fashion accessoryaccording to new research fromMintel.

Over the last year more than 16million people – 41 per cent of thepopulation – purchased a belt,making it the country’s most widelybought accessory.

The sales of women’s belts haveincreased the most with a rise of 8.7per cent of sales and over the nextfive years the market has beenforecast to grow by another nine percent by the end of 2014.

The report also reveals that whilesales of handbags have droppedduring 2009, a recovery is expectedin 2010 and over the next five yearsdemand is set to increase by 26 percent.

Katrin Magnussen, senior fashionanalyst, said: “Accessories such asbelts and handbags have benefitedfrom fashion trends and celebritystyles.

“A greater focus on body conscious

silhouettes and the waist has beengood news for belts and the budgetfashion handbag sector has grownstrongly on the back of being able tointerpret trends at low prices and thistrend is set to continue."More affordable – yet still goodquality – fashion handbags haveincreased in popularity, as they satisfythe desire to be in fashion, but notto bust the budget.”Overall, figures show that the totalfashion accessories market increasedin value by 4.7 per cent during 2008 to reach £1.05bn and it isestimated that in 2010 the marketwill decline by just one per cent asconsumers buy fewer or lessexpensive accessories. Katrin added: “Accessories provide awardrobe update for less moneythan a complete outfit, and are anideal treat even to consumers beingmore careful about their spending. “They have a 'feelgood factor' andhave traditionally been relativelyrecession-proof, hence the sectorgrowth.”

Accessoriesmarket getsboost from belts

A new Clogau Gold Milestones collection hasbeen launched for autumn/winter 09.The range includes a selection of beadedcharms and cord-like charm bracelets insterling silver or yellow gold.The charms are available in several differentdesigns, made from combinations of yellowgold, sterling silver and rose gold and eachcharm also contains Welsh gold mined fromthe Clogau St David’s mine in Snowdonia.

THE British Jewellers’ Association haslaunched its first annual competition- with this year’s event focussing onpalladium jewellery.The new contest has been organisedto reward British firms and individualdesigner makers who producecutting edge jewellery to the higheststandards. This year’s palladium theme has beenchosen to celebrate the recentlyratified change to the HallmarkingAct. The awards will take place at TheJewellery Show 2010 in Februaryand, among other prizes, thewinners will see their designs

displayed on the BJA stand at theshow. The awards' two categories are:� A commercial suite of jewellery:made up of at least threecomplementary pieces, for example;a pendant, pair of earrings and apiece of wristwear or five pieces ofjust one item.� A single ‘statement’ design:showcasing palladium and its specialproperties – colour, lightness anddurability.The judges have confirmed that theywill be looking for something a bitdifferent and entries must bedesigned and made in the UK.

18 26/11/09 12:13 Page 1


Kool for kids

19

BABYSHOES carries one of the largest supplies of in-stock,continental baby shoes in the UK.

It has over 40 styles and 12 colours.

It has next day delivery service (freeon orders over £250) but does nothave a minimum order.

Babyshoes has won numerousawards including winner of theIndustry Design Awards 2008 and the accolade of inclusion in the Who’s Who of Britain’sBusiness Elite.

The company has showrooms in

Manchester, Birmingham andGlasgow.

For more information contact Trevor on 01512803049, e-mail:

[email protected] or visit theirwebsite: www.babyshoes.co.uk.

40 styles, 12 colours ...I-WALK by Bobux is now one of thefastest growing children’s shoebrands in the UK. Using only the finest eco-leather inboth the Bobux Original and I-Walkranges, mums can be confident thatlittle feet are protected in safe,healthy shoes that look great too.Bobux, pioneers of the soft-soledleather pram shoe almost 20 yearsold, continue to be the globalmarket leader in this category. A firm favourite of mothersworldwide including celebrity mumsAngelina Jolie, Halle Berry and IslaFischer. The I-Walk range of pre and firstwalkers is the ‘natural’ progressionfor the Bobux baby. Eco-leatheruppers and inners and soft, flexiblerubber soles are the basics of a range

that uses classic designs with amodern twist. The Bobux baby alsohas a beautiful range of Bobuxclothing to choose from too.

Giving mums confidence

KICKERS and the Lego Group are setto expand their kids’ footwear rangeafter a successful first collection.

An expanded spring/summer 2010range has now been launched withLego design features appearing onstraps and eyelets in bright colours.

The girls’ styles come in softercolourways and floral prints whilethe boys’ range has the addition ofLego footballer characters.

Ian Blackman, Kickers MD,said: “The Kickers andLego collaboration was sowell received last season,that we knew we had tokeep the story going for2010.

“We have taken all the feedback obtainedand strengthened thisnew range, whichcaters to boys and girlsalike.”

Keeping the story going ...

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News

ISSUE 56 DECEMBER 2009/JANUARY 2010 20

By Louise Cordell

THE largest ladies footwear e-tailer inEurope, VivaLaDiva, have completedtheir search for a new design star.

The website had shortlisted tenstudents’ designs following acompetition with the London College of Fashion and launched anonline footwear forum to get thepublic’s help with the judgingprocess.

Gary Lenaghan has now beennamed as the winner and his design,a multi textures, zebra printed, peeptoe heel, will go into production forinclusion in the site’s spring/summer2010 collection.

Originally from New Zealand, 30-year-old Gary now lives in SouthLondon and has returned tofootwear design after 11 years inretail management for fashionnames including Kurt Geiger.

He is currently completing a degreein Footwear Product Design andDevelopment at LCF and said: “I wasvery excited about the possibility ofdesigning something for VivaLaDivabecause as a website they are allabout fast fashion and lots ofdesigners have launched their firstcollections with them, so it was agreat opportunity.

“When creating my design I lookedat the trends that are going to bebig for summer 2010 and the onethat stood out for me and interestedme the most was the African-inspired themes.

“My aim was to turn this look into adesign that was fashion forwardenough to appeal to the trendsetters but also a safe and popularenough choice for the company.

“I also drew on myexperience of

working in retailand took

into

account what I know aboutconsumers and what sells, how themarket works and how fast turnoveris.”

Gary’s design will be available to buyon the website from January 2010and he is now working on plans tolaunch his own footwear label aftergraduation.

VivaLaDiva.com said: “We selectedGary as the winner of thecompetition, as his design is bothon-trend and reflects the taste ofVivaLaDiva.com shoppers.

“Production wise, Gary’s designworked well and is cost-effective,factors that the students on the LCFcourse have learnt is very important.

“Safari-style will be big for S/S10 and given the number of thefashionistas that voted to crownGary as the winner, his shoe will sell

very well.”

Two further populardesigns, from JulieFarrier from Bergen,Norway and MichalaAllen from Bath,were chosen asrunners up and theirshoes will also beavailable fromVivaLaDiva.com inthe New Year.

Winner Gary stepsup to the mark ...

Julie’s design

Gary and his winning design

Michala’s design

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21 PURE 26/11/09 15:18 Page 1

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Pure preview


Top labels headingfor Pure LondonTHE Pure London exhibition inFebruary will be presenting over 900of the industry’s most creative,luxurious, must-have brands.

Top designer label Calvin Klein willbe exhibiting at the show for the firsttime with its Autumn/Winter 2010womenswear and accessorycollections and luxury brand JohnSmedley will be making a debut withits British-inspired collection.

New for February 2010, Pure Londonwill be launching a new area withinthe Accessories section.

Funky and Fresh will house accessorybrands for the cool, young fashionretailer and will make sourcing the

most relevant accessories even easierfor buyers.

Top designer brands will also beappearing in Pure Accessories andFootwear.

Zandra Rhodes will be launching hernew handbag collection while GracieMae will be showcasing its latestrange of luggage.

Pure Footwear will be split into threesections; trend-led, designer and newto Pure.

On offer will be Fly London, who willalso be launching its young fashionclothing range in Spirit, IrregularChoice, Miss L Fire and French Sole.

Chie Mihara is set to exhibit at Pure London and defines her creations as naïve, nostalgic,feminine but at the same time strong and urban. Her passion and creativity have catapultedher to becoming one of the most interesting young footwear designers currently working inthe industry.

‘Lie Down I Think I LoveYou’ will be exhibitingits collection of vintagestyle accessories atPure London.The brand is inspired byEnglish eccentricity,individuality, fun andromanticism and usessoft Italian leather injewel colours andorganic shapes in itshand-finished designs.It also incorporatesvintage scarves, findsand adornments as partof the bag to makeeach accessory unique.Each season a ‘make doand mend element’ ofrecycling and re-working vintagefabrics is integratedinto the collection andthe label also offers abespoke service wherethe customers are ableto pick their ownscarves and leathers.

24 Gumbies 27/11/09 11:25 Page 1

25 J SHOES 27/11/09 10:07 Page 1

News


BRITISH sports brand Gola has joinedforces with children’s shoe companyStart-rite to launch an exclusiverange of training shoes for childrenfor the AW10 season.

The range, which consists of fournew styles for boys and girls, hasbeen designed by Gola anddeveloped by Start-rite.

The two brands have worked closelytogether to produce the new styleswhich are made with exclusivelydeveloped lasts and bespoke soles,and feature breathable linings andantibacterial underfoot cushioning.

The four styles have been namedafter key years from each brands’long histories, including theinception dates of both the Start-riteand Gola brands.

Peter Lamble, Start-rite’s chairmansaid: “This partnership represents atrue collaboration between two like-minded brands that have been partof the British footwear industry formany years. Gola’s unique stylingcombined with our commitment togood quality, fitted children’s shoeshas resulted in an exclusive trainerpackage that we are all really excitedabout.”

Two brands in step fornew trainer launch

New safety collection by JCBA NEW range of safety footwearhas been launched by JCB.

Sheffield-based Progressive Safetyhas been appointed as theexclusive UK licensee for therange and will cover the designand production of clothing andfootwear for the JCB brand.

The collection has been designedfor comfort and durability andevery style is suitable to be wornin all areas of the workplace, both

inside and out.

The safety footwear collection ismade up of 18 styles,manufactured to industrystandards and including yellowand black branding on the soleand upper.

All but two of the styles arewaterproof and breathable toprovide complete protection in allconditions.

Running shoe firmmaking changesSPECIALIST running shoe brand UKGear is making a series of companywide changes following increasedsales. The brand has announced that itscustomer services and distribution forthe specialist UK market will now beadministered from Portsmouth,freeing up its Rugby headquarters toconcentrate on global militarymarkets and increased research anddevelopment. David Hinde, UK Gear founder, said:“Investment in an enlarged customerservices facility was critical for us in

our plans to meet our ambitious midto long terms sales objectives in theUK. “Customer services stands as acornerstone of the brand’sprogramme for sustainable andsystematic growth and is part of awider overhaul which will supportthe more aggressive posture taken byUK Gear in the market.”UK Gear will also be launching itsnew 2010 range to the trade thisautumn with products developed inassociation with the British ArmyPhysical Training Corps.

Site mixes and matches uppers and solesA NEW shoe retail site has beenlaunched to provide a mix andmatch range of customisablefootwear.

SwapTopShoes.com helpscustomers to combine differentsoles with a choice of uppers tocreate a custom-made look.

The designs aim to allow buyers to

carry around different styles ofshoes in their handbags fordifferent occasions and provide alightweight way of taking a rangeof shoes on holiday.

The interchangeable footwearconcept has already taken off inAmerica and collection of comfort,stretchy shoe tops have becomeparticularly popular with pregnant

women and older customers.

Founder Marta Eleniak said:“SwapTopShoes.com is a veryexciting proposition to help womenmatch their shoes to their outfitswithout having to weigh theirluggage or wardrobe down withloads of shoes.

“We offer a wide choice of styles

of sole from cork effect kitten heelsto elegant black heels along with awide choice of tops to go from dayto night.

“It is also an ethical way to shopby using less resources andeffectively recycling your shoesrather than having a different pairto go with every outfit worn forone occasion.”

BLC Leather Technology Centre Ltdhas announced a management buy-out involving the three directorsAdam Hughes, Andrew Richardsonand Victoria Addy.

The business will operate as before

with no changes being made to thestaff, services or procedures.

Going forward, BLC will continue todevelop products and services for itsinternational customer base frommanufacturing through to retail.

BLC announces management buy-out

Cloggs opens flagship storeCLOGGS has announced theopening of a new flagship retail shoestore in Birmingham.

Until recently the Midlands store hadconcentrated on growing its businessonline, but the opening of the storein the Bullring Shopping Centre willput it alongside some of the UK’slargest brands.

The shop will stock all of the brandsCloggs sells online including Uggs,Dr Martens, Fitflops, MBTs andTimberlands.

It will also offer a pre-order service,next day delivery and touch screenterminals in the store to allowcustomers to view the website.

Nick Thomas, Cloggs.co.uk director, said: “The opening of thisflagship store is a landmark momentfor us.

“We've been able to showcase ourselection of footwear brands in aretail environment, whereas we'vealways focused entirely on onlinesales before.”

THE Florida Group has announcedthe appointment of newdistributors in New Zealand,Australia and Benelux. Denstock, based in Christchurchwill be launching the Van Dalbrand in both New Zealand andAustralia and Crispinus Holding,based in Breda, will cover Benelux. Managing director Tony Linfordsaid: “I am delighted to announcethese new partnerships. They markthe first successes in our strategyto establish the Van Dal brand inmarkets around the world.”

The group has also appointedPamela Clarke as the new head offinance and HR. Tony added: “I am confident thatPamela’s arrival will help continueour progression. “In what are difficult tradingconditions we have shown awillingness to invest in bothpeople and new producttechnologies. There are clear signsthat this approach is impactingpositively on our bottom linewhich bodes well for our futureplans.”

New distributors for group

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News

27

ART and textiles teacher Laura Berry,36, is also mum to one-year-oldBonita, and spends her spare timeworking with local artists in thecommunity, coordinating arts eventsfor disadvantaged youths. Her shoe design was inspired by herdesire for funky but practicalfootwear that could comfortablytake a working mum through theday, from the school run to eveningdrinks. Laura said: “I don’t have any realexperience in footwear design, mybackground is more in art andillustration, but I have alwaysenjoyed designing clothes in myspare time. “I have always loved shoes and hadhad some design ideas in my headfor a while when I saw thecompetition – I just felt like it couldwork. “I wanted to create a shoe that wascomfortable but also flattering –hence the heel! “I also wanted something versatile –as I am always rushing around andwanted the shoe to fit into thatlifestyle. “There are a lot of designs out therethat look great but are veryimpractical, so my aim was to create

something different.”Laura’s design was selected fromover 750 entries and the judge’sdecision was helped by more than16,000 votes cast online by thepublic. The expert panel described the shoeas an all-season style with vintageinfluences and a modern twist. It was also designed with the optionfor leather, suede or canvas uppersin a variety of colourways. Laura added: “I think the judgesliked the fact that the shoes will becomfortable, and will providesomething a bit different and fresh. “The design has got versatility andso should be able to work fordifferent people and differentseasons. “I can’t wait to see them in theshops and people walking around inthem – I think that is when it willfeel real. “I would love to do more footweardesign in the future and winning thecompetition has really inspired meand given me confidence. “I also hope it will inspire others,because it shows that you don’tnecessarily need a lot of expertise orexperience if you are creative andpassionate about design.”

Laura Berry ofBirmingham has beennamed as the winnerof the Hush PuppiesShoeperstarcompetition. Her shoe design willnow go into productionand be sold exclusivelyin high street retailerSchuh. Out On A Limbfound out more.

CHOOSING a Shoeperstars winnerfrom the final five was a toughdecision according to Hush Puppies’marketing manager, Julie Bradley.She said: “Selecting just one winnerwas very, very hard, as all the finalistshad designs that were worthy ofwinning. “What tipped the balance for Laurawas that she met the briefcompletely – she produced a shoethat will fit in with the brand, thathas comfort elements and that willtake the Hush Puppies’ name to thenext level of fashion. “The design has a great 60s’ lookthat fits in with the original HushPuppies styles from when thecompany was born in 1958 and, ontop of that, everyone who has seen

the shoe, regardless of their age, hassaid what a funky design it is. “We have already had a prototypeshoe handmade from Laura’sdrawings and she will now workwith our designers to refine the lastto make sure that all the elements ofcomfort and fit are absolutely rightfor the customers. “We are also planning on workingwith Laura again in the future todevelop an ankle boot and a fulllength boot from the same last, aswe think the design has a lot ofpotential for future seasons.“Finally, we are hoping to offer oneor two of the other finalistsplacements within the company inrecognition of the great designs theyproduced.”

Selecting winner was a tough task

Laura and her winning design

Laura winswith funky butpractical design

27 26/11/09 12:31 Page 1

News


The Pitillos Spanish shoe company has beenproducing over two million pairs of shoes inLa Rioja, northern Spain since 1981.Over the past year the brand has decided tomarket the styles in the UK and has taken onAubrey and David Woolfson to cover Ireland

and, for this season, spring 2010, Zoe andBryan Willows to cover England and Wales.The brand’s focus is on men’s and ladies’leather comfort shoes, with a fashionelement that appeals to all age groups.

Pavoni footwear is a full leather article, including upper, lining and sole, made exclusively inItaly. The flat ballet style model is in grade one suede and comes in lime, orange and turqu-oise. The high fashion platform model is available in the same, plus croc leather red or white.

THE Blackpool Show is preparing toposition itself as a key event in thetrade show calendar after two of itsleading contributors has joined forcesto radically alter the show’s setup.

This year the show will see 16companies, organised jointly byLyndhurst Shoes and Jaybill, allgathering in the Imperial Hotel fromJanuary 16-18.

Conrad Dempsey, Jaybill director,said: “When Shaun from Lyndhurstand I first discussed this we couldonly see bringing the show togetherunder one roof as a positive move

for our customers as well asourselves.

“January is also a good time forbuying too as it covers the end ofautumn/winter buying and the start of the spring season which wethink is ideal for independentretailers.”

New-look show for Blackpool

HIGH quality innovative footwear formen and women that defines yourindependent style.

Focused around three main themesthe new J Shoes AW10 collectioncontinues to build on its corestrengths whilst encompassingexciting new product lines, coloursand material mixes.

Design influences look to the idea ofandrogyny; the mixing betweenmasculine and feminine whilst other

segments within the collection takeon an industrial avant garde feel anda vintage story focuses quite highlytoo.

Colours for women comprise richvintage tones – bottle green, deepgarnet, cognac, storm and industrialtones of black, wine, grey, oxbloodand dark brown.

Whilst colours for men includeelements of the above as well aspumpkin, minx and mushroom.

‘Footwear that definesyour independent style’

To advertise inthe next issue of OUT ON A LIMBcontact Bev Green on01226 734288

28 Lexus/filler 27/11/09 11:37 Page 1


News

29

That’s surely a testament to the fact that thissuperb window on our business world has beenaging very successfully by more than matchingmarket needs. If you have never been to ispo, orhaven’t attended the show for a while, it’s vast.Make no mistake. But getting straight to thepoint in business has been given everyconsideration, with the show divided into marketsector ‘communities’ to make it easy for productsector focus.

Ispo’s nature is to trend spot whilst continuing tohighlight what is of the moment. The show embraces the desire for people tomeet and exchange ideas and information,which is vital to ongoing business. And never short of ideas, ispo itself continues toprovide its on trend product showcasingalongside some truly inspirational forwardthinking features to keep business buzzing.

Providing the chance to see all the latest smartkit in Wearable Technologies is just one suchconcept, now enhanced by a Textrends area forthe latest on functionality in fabrics. Ispovision, the unique visionary platform withinispo, has become an outstanding feature of theshow with a focus on breakthrough design andedgy products that push the boundaries ofsports fashion.

Alongside this community is sportstyle ispo,where traditional functionality meets fashiondesirability, including designer ledcollaborations.Everything from apparel toaccessories and footwear can be found in thesevibrant halls of compelling objects of desire, aswell as throughout the show in differentspecialist sectors.

As more retailers and distributors look towardssourcing their own products, so the introductionrecently of Sports Source Europe alongside ispohas been a perfect practical addition. Every space around this huge exhibition site hassomething of interest, from the many catwalkshows in all product sectors, to workshops,networking in the international retail lounge, orchecking out the Brand New competition. All that - and back to back social events to get toknow international brands and retail colleagues.

Register online at www.ispo.com to takeadvantages of the discounts available for earlybooking of visitor tickets which include yourpublic transport fares while in Munich. All the latest information on exhibitors, eventsand other ispo opportunities is continuallyupdated to help you plan your visit.

Inspirationally…Ispo!

Opening hours ispo20107 – 10th FebruarySunday, 7th february 2010 9 am - 6 pmMonday, 8th february 2010 9 am - 6 pmTuesday, 9th february 2010 9 am - 6 pmWednesday, 10th february 2010 9 am - 5 pm

WHEN ispo opens its doors to the trade on 4February 2010 it will truly doing so in style,celebrating it’s 40th anniversary.

ONE of the best examples ofscience driven design is theGerman brand Caprice, abrand that is renowned for itsinnovative comfort footweartechnology, called "Walkingon Air" that is patentedthroughout Europe.Caprice has adapted thenatural curve of the heel forfashionable all leathercomfort shoes – ‘as ifwalking barefoot’ – and theflexible sole, insole and upperwork together to provide afeeling of lightness.

Additional features includeoptimal moisture reductionduring and after wear,insulation against cold andheat and cushioningproviding up to 62 per centless pressure thanconventional shoes.Also, up to 50 per cent moreshock absorbency, due to thepneumatic chambers andstabilisers in the heel, whichwork to help reduce thepressure exerted duringwalking on the spine, discsand joints.

THE Boutique by Chic showwhich took place in October wasa New York themed success.Many new brands launched atthe show including scarves, bagsand wraps from Roshanara, hatbrand Wigens, UK handbag andhat designer Jacqueline Headlamand handbags from IrregularChoice and Storm Bags. New English brand Penelope andParker appeared with theirladies’ laptop bags as well asAditaf from Israel with theircoloured handbags and MartinaCaponi from Italy with theirhandbags. In addition, therewere familiar brands such asCiccia, Golunski, Eco Catt, Smithand Canova, Kontessa andPasotti. Many of the exhibitorsreported a very successful showand Cherylee Taylor of Smith andCanova said: “Boutique had awonderful ambience and theshow was an amazing fashionshow for buyers to attend inwonderful surroundings”.The next Boutique show is set totake place from 25 to 27 April2010 and will follow a Frenchtheme.

Boutique‘wonderfulambience’

29 ISPO adv 27/11/09 12:53 Page 1

News


diaryddaatteessISPO Winter

Neue Messe München, 7-10 Feb 10 The international trade fair for sports equipment

and fashion celebrates its 69th show and, with thefull exhibition space booked up, are expecting

record attendances.

PureOlympia London, 14-15 February 2010

(www.purewomenswear.co.uk)A showcase of over 800 directional womenswear

brands, young creative labels, footwear andaccessory collection.

Moda FootwearNEC Birmingham, 21-23 February 2010

(www.moda-uk.co.uk)Moda will include a seminar programme which will

be free of charge to all visitors and exhibitors. The Moda catwalk show will present an overview of

the season’s trends, providing an insight into keylooks.

GDS/GLSMesse Dusseldorf, Germany, 12-14 March 2010

(www.gds-online.com)Highlights will include high fashion labels from

international brands and the children’s footwearmarketplace. Other events will include fashionshows, trend presentations and trend vision.

FOOTWEAR

RETAIL SOLUTIONS

Nike and Foot Locker have joined forces to launch an exclusive collection of mid-cut stylesthat are now available in stores nationwide. There are five styles for men and five for women,including the Air Force One, Vandal and Dunk designs – the new autumn/winter collectiontakes the basketball heritage of the 1980s and translates this into sneakers.

Group signs up forrainforest schemeTHE Gucci Group, which includesfashion houses Yves Saint Laurent,Alexander McQueen, StellaMcCartney and Balenciaga, hassigned up to a new scheme to helpprotect Indonesia’s rainforest.

The Rainforest Action Network hasannounced that the group has joineda growing list of major companieswho are pledging to change theirpaper policies.

All brands within the group will noweliminate all paper made fromIndonesian forests and plantationsand by controversial suppliers likeAsia Pulp and Paper.

Mimma Viglezio, the Gucci Groupexecutive VP for globalcommunications, said: “Standingrainforests are not a luxury, they area necessity if the world wants tostop climate change.

“Our actions are lowering our own

carbon footprint, but we hope thatthey will also raise awareness insidethe fashion industry that it is possiblefor our industry to make a differencefor rainforests and for the climate.”

With its new policy, the group haspledged to reduce the amount ofpaper it uses, eliminate fibre fromhigh conservation value forests, andonly to purchase recycled products orthose certified by the ForestStewardship Council by December2010.

Lafcadio Cortesi, RAN’s forestcampaign director, said: “The GucciGroup’s actions and commitmentsconfirm its place as an industryleader.

“This move sets a bar for others infashion and retail and demonstratesthe foresight our society needs forour children and grandchildren tohave standing rainforests and astable climate.”

30 26/11/09 16:59 Page 1

31 Marque 26/11/09 12:00 Page 1

32 TNT 26/11/09 12:25 Page 1

out on a limb (issue 56)

Documents

end of tariffs

eu member

european commission

dutieswill end

marsha alsospecialises

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