out on a limb (april/may 2010)

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ISSUE 58 APRIL/MAY 2010

News

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FOLLOWING a successful showseason for brands, it’s nowdown to retailers to get theircarefully chosen new stocksold.Most traders are optimisticthat business will be pickingup over the summer and inthis issue we have spoken toseveral independents who aretrying a range of new schemesto increase their sales. Among them are Feet FirstFootwear in Hexham, which isintroducing a brand new rangeof orthotic shoes into the UKand Footprints inPeterborough, a family runstore spearheading a charityappeal for Kosovan children. We also meet up and comingdesigner Rachel Jones, whohas gone from working as ananalyst predicting the shoestyles of the future, to puttingher insider knowledge to gooduse with her own footwearrange. Finally, in our New Productsround up Out On A Limbreveals Paez – one of the mostexciting new brands to hit theUK so far this year.The Argentinean designs havebeen brought to the countryby entrepreneurs JamesMcGowan and DouglasAarvold and are alreadywinning over retailers withtheir laid back style.

Optimismthat tradewill pick up

www.twitter.com/ooalmagazine

Hexham shopin specialistfit moveBy Louise Cordell

AN independent shoe shop inHexham is increasing sales bydiversifying into the specialist fitmarket.

Feet First Footwear, which caters forkids aged up to 14, has recently wonthe UK distribution contract for anorthotic children’s shoe.

The Memo footwear design comesfrom Poland and helps to diagnoseand correct mild to moderate footproblems.

The shoe’s sole is divided into sixnumbered zones and after beingworn for three weeks the level ofwear on different areas can providethe information needed to select thecorrect insole to help improve theproblem.

Shane Quinn, store owner, said: “Werecommend that any children withfoot problems are referred to apodiatrist first – but these shoes aregreat for accommodating insertswhere mainstream shoes don’t.

“We have had parents bringingnormal shoes back into the storeafter they have been broken byinserts – to avoid this you often haveto go a size bigger to accommodatethem.But the downside of this is thatit compromises fit.”

Since stocking the shoes, the storeshas had an increasing number oforders and patients referrals fromlocal hospitals.

Shane also contacts the hospitalsand clinics local to any other shoestores who order the brand, lettingthem know that there is a localsupplier available to them.

The brand also offer another rangeof shoes which cater specifically forchildren diagnosed with CerebralPalsy, which is currently being soldmostly to hospitals, but is alsoavailable to stores.

Shane added: “These products aren’tnecessarily big sellers but what theyhave done for my business is createan awareness and put us on the mapwith people who wouldn’t usuallycome to us. As a results of this weare getting new customers, andthrough them we are selling to theirsiblings and friends too.

“We are really only aiming to sellthese shoes to shops that aremembers of the Society of ShoeFitters, like us, or who are aiming toachieve that qualification.

“This is because we think the bestway to beat the recession is to bringin new customers with theguarantee that you will take the timeand attention to fit them properly,with a quality product.”

London shoe designer Insa has created a teninch heel incorporating real elephant dungfor a Tate Britain exhibition.The designer was one of six artists asked bythe gallery to create a response to ChrisOfili’s recent exhibit of an elephant droppingpainting of the Virgin Mary.To produce the heel Insa retraced thejourney Ofili made over 15 years ago andsourced dung from the same family ofelephants that produced the dung used inthe infamous nineties painting.He has used similar techniques andmaterials – beading, resin and painting, topay homage to the style of Ofili’s early work.Insa has also designed signature collectionsfor brands such as Nike and Oki-Ni as wellas running his own heel company, InsaHeels.

Online collectionRADLEY has launched its first evershoe collection online atkurtgeiger.com.The new collection stays true toRadley's core design aesthetic ofcreating eclectic, colourful products,but the capsule collection alsohighlights the brand’s artisan styling. Each of the shoe styles has also beencreate to complement the brand’sspring/summer 2010 handbag range.

Panama Jack has introduced newdesigns this season, all made inSpain. These include the Neptune,made in nappa suede with a recycledcork sole, the laced style Norton,with natural leather lining andpadded sole and sandals Miranda and Jane in a range of colours.

A NEW international sales directorfor Gant and Maruti footwear hasbeen appointed by the Bos Group. Roelof de Leeuw has a wide range ofexperience within the footwearmarket and has previously beenresponsible for well-knowninternational brands such as Crocs,Pony, Nautica and 7 For All

Mankind.Frenzy van den Berg, brand anddevelopment director of the BosGroup, said: “In the context of ourfuture growth for the Maruti andGant footwear brands, it is of utmostimportance to add expertise to ourteam to help us further develop inthe global market.”

New sales director appointed

New rangehas newcushioningA NEW women’s footwear rangefrom Kenneth Cole New York hasbeen launched at the House ofFraser.

The collection features a new,patented cushioning system, 925Technology, for added comfort inall styles from flat boots tostilettos.

The system is made up from twofoam layers, one which acts as ashock absorber, and one ofmemory foam that moulds to theshape of the foot.

The shoes also feature a flaxseedpillow in the arch cradles to support the foot, sheepskinlinings that allow the feet tobreathe and the high heel styleshave an impact resistant nylon heellift.

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Contents Issue 58 April/May 10

Introducing new developments

Collection features vintage styling

Designer with a practical twist

Classic styling

Capital inspiration

Clog stages a comeback

Steven’s simple rule

Arjun moves on UK market

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10

14

16

18

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23

Sales

Tony Barry - Sales & Marketing Director

Beverley Green - Sales Manager

([email protected])

Advertising Contacts

Tel: 01226 734333 | Fax: 01226 734477

Editorial

Andrew Harrod - Group Editor

Judith Halkerston - Group Deputy Editor

Louise Cordell - Editor

Christina Eccles - Reporter

Mary Ferguson - Reporter

Editorial Contacts

Tel: 01226 734694 | Fax: 01226 734705

Email: [email protected]

Design & Production

Stewart Holt - Studio Manager

([email protected])

Kyle Wilkinson - Design & Production

([email protected])

Circulation

01226 734695 (24 hour hotline)

Email: [email protected]

COVER STORY

NEWS

SPOTLIGHT

NEWS

ACCESSORIES

NEWS

RETAIL REVIEW

NEWS

DURING the last few years,Softwaves has continuously andconsistently presented newdevelopments, supported by the vastexperience of their creators,ComforSyst SA ‘Comfort Systems’.

With every detail engineered fromthe very beginning of the designprocess, and with a strong control ondevelopment and production, forWinter 2010 the brand is offering acomplete range of new designs –City Sport shoes, booties and boots.

Using Italian washed nubuckcombined with full grain sheep skins,all the finishing is carried out byhand, using natural waxes and waterbased polish.

Smart engineering details areincluded inside and outside theshoes, including the Luftpolster, asmall inside case on the base of thesole that hides a special air cushionsystem, and the Wave MassageInsole, which is made up ofbreathable PU and natural pigleather with a unique wave designoffering a smooth and relaxingmassage to the feet.

As an international brand,adaptation is also a key word forSoftwaves.

All styles feature cuts, elastics orbuckles in order to adapt to differenttypes of feet and the designs alsocome in a generous G fitting, whichladies from 35 to 55 find verysuitable for their needs.

On top of this, the real achievementfor the Winter 2010 collection is thedevelopment of the new GoAirfitting system. Made up of four pieces, GoAirconsists of a 100 per cent rubbersole in an optimal walking design, aventilated platform and attached aircapsules. The mechanism has been developedto force the air to circulate inside theshoe while the wearer is walking,making the experience smoother andmore relaxing. It means that the internal humidity isexpelled, keeping the feet dry andthe temperature stable. The system is completely waterproofand the benefits include reducedfatigue and odour and all roundbetter health for the feet. The system is available in SoftwavesGoAir styles and has been developedfor very active people who have towalk all day or who spend many

hours on their feet. Every part of a Softwaves shoe isproduced inside Europe, betweenItaly, Germany and Portugal, and allraw materials are tested at ShoeTechnology centres to guaranteehigh levels of performance.

For more information contact Anthony Freeron: 07730 486601, e-mail:

[email protected] visit: www.softwaves.pt.

Complete range of new designs

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Image outweighsperformance intrainer choiceBy Louise CordellIMAGE is more important thanperformance when it comes tochoosing new trainers, accordingto the findings of a new study.Biomechanics experts atStaffordshire University havediscovered that colour is the singlemost important factor governingchoice in a recent study carried outamong a student population.The research was carried out byProfessor Nachi Chockalingam andHelen Branthwaite from the Facultyof Health and the findingspublished in the Footwear Sciencejournal.Professor Chockalingam said: “Wequestioned 195 students,predominantly from a sports andexercise background, based onthoughts, feelings and choices theymade on purchasing their last setof training shoes. “The questionnaire explored thetype of shoe purchased, thetechnical factors that influenced

the purchase, the qualities of thetrainers, emotions association withwearing the trainer, what thetraining shoe was used for and areview of lower limb injuries.“The main influence on purchasingthe trainer was colour and brand,highlighting that image andfashion are more important factorsthan cushioning and motioncontrol.“Clearly the impact of brandspecific features and technologiesthat are researched to maximiseperformance and reduce injury arenot influential for this populationwhen buying training shoes.”The results showed that 151 out ofthe 195 students surveyed claimedthat colour was an importantfactor in choosing their trainingshoes, followed by brand (128),cushioning (74), type of activity(54) and motion control (15). They also revealed that everydaywear was the most common usefor the trainers (47 per cent), while

23 per cent used them for running,21 per cent used them for the gymand nine per cent used them forother sports including tennis andfootball. Professor Chockalingam added:“The results of this study indicatedthat the main use for trainingshoes is to wear them for everydayuse. “This may be as the comfort andcushioning of the shoe ispreferable to a traditional shoe andbecause it is fashionable to do so.“This research obviously hasimplications for the big brandswhich pump millions into researchand marketing with a view todevelop shoes that alter runningmechanics and improve lower limbfunction and reduce injuries.“It will also form part of a muchlarger study, still focusing on thefactors determining choice, butinvolving other age groups.”

NEXT year’s GDS and Global Shoesevents in Düsseldorf are to be held onweekdays, rather than across aweekend. The decision has been made followingthis season’s show, where 29,500visitors used the three-day trade fairto place their orders forautumn/winter 10/11. The aim is to tailor the two fairs tosuit changing marketing conditionsand from 2011, both will be heldfrom Wednesday to Friday. Kirstin Deutelmoser, GDS projectdirector, said: “Together with the GDSadvisory board we have decided onchanging to weekdays. We areconfident that this move will make theshows even more attractive forretailers as we will be avoiding theday with the highest retail sales –Saturday. This means retailers nolonger have to decide between visitingthe trade fair and selling.”Almost one in two visitors at the showcame from abroad, with the top fivecountries listed as Benelux, France,Italy, the UK and Austria, and includedretail firms such as Amazon, JonesBootmaker and Office.Kirsten added: “GDS was a keyindicator for the sector. We feltoptimism and a good mood pairedwith a concentrated though relaxedworking atmosphere on all threedays.”

Good moodat GDS

Levi has introduced a premiumhandcrafted range of men’s footwear

for autumn/winter 2010. The collectioncombines American style and Italian

shoe making traditions to create arange inspired by the company’s early

customers. The collection has beennamed 1853, after the year when

Bavarian immigrant Levi Strauss set upthe business in San Francisco.

It consists of two classic workwearboots, which come with a two year

guarantee. The California boot mixeshook fastenings with double sided

elastic inserts for extra safety and theSan Fransisco boot has a more

streamlined design with pulling hoops.The boots uppers are made from extra

thick Italian bull leather and stitchedonto high density, oil resistant rubber.

Shoe design challenge for studentsBRIGHTON-based footwear labelIrregular Choice is teaming up withCordwainers students to celebrateits tenth birthday.

The brand has set up a new designproject for BA Footwear studentsat the London College of Fashion,challenging them to create a shoethat will appeal to the IrregularChoice fan base.

Danny Sullivan, founder anddesigner, said: “I want to helpnurture the students’ skills andknowledge and support emergingtalent.

“It is important to give somethingback, especially as students aresuch loyal Irregular Choicecustomers.” The winning design that capturesthe essence of the brand mosteffectively will be produced as alimited edition and sold at theflagship store on Carnaby Street,with all profits going into theIrregular Choice Scholarship Fundfor Cordwainers at London Collegeof Fashion.Paul McNicoll, director ofprogrammes said, “We’re delightedto be working with Irregular

Choice on such a creative andthoughtful brief. “The students will gain invaluableexperience producing designs thathave the potential to bemanufactured and sold – it’s such afantastic opportunity for studentswho are only just embarking ontheir careers in the hugelycompetitive world of footweardesign.”The winning student will be offeredthe opportunity to go on all-expenses paid trip to China andsee their design being produced atDanny’s family-run factory.

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Designer Dionneshows off hershoes at partiesFOOTWEAR designer Dionne Goodinghas come up with a new way ofpromoting her shoes to customers. She holds Shoe Parties, which take herfootwear into clients’ homes and offices,attracting groups of friends and family toview and try on the designs. Dionne said: “I completed a shoemakingcourse at the London College of Fashionand studies textiles at De MontfortUniversity. “I love shoes, but I always found it hardto find exactly what I wanted, and sowhen I started created my own I reallyenjoyed combining elements of the twocourses to come up with originaldesigns.I started doing shoe partiesbecause I wanted to find a fun way ofbringing my designs to new people – Istarted out with friends and family and ithas been really successful.”Party hostesses gather ten or morefriends together to meet the designerand view the shoes, take part in shoetrivia games for footwear prizes and tryon their favourite styles in a mini catwalkshow. Guests can also bring along their own

old shoes to transform with the help ofDionne and her collection of trimmingsand fabrics. Dionne added: “My designs are quirkybecause I always found that high streetshoes were very plain with not muchdetailing and the ones with lots ofembellishment have more of a designerprice tag. So I wanted to create adesigner look with a high street pricetag. I approached a few boutiques withmy portfolio and made some designs forthem – keeping it exclusive – I usuallyonly make one design in each size,although I can make more to order ifneeded. “If someone has an idea for a shoe, forexample to match an outfit, then we canwork together to design them or adaptone of my designs to suit them better.”Dionne is now hoping to get her shoesin to more boutiques around the UK andis also working on designing a weddingcollection. She is aiming to produce somethingdifferent to the plain wedding shoescurrently on offer, and create somethingmore fashion led for the modern bride.

The latest collection from FeudLondon appeared at Moda andfeatures the brand’s signature highheels and vintage styling.The range includes thigh high

boots, stilettos, ankleboots and extra largewedges combined with amix of textures and abrand new colourpalette.

HUSH Puppies were back atModa this season and retailerscelebrated their return by placinga record number of orders at thetrade show. Andy Cockayne, sales director,said: “Our success at Moda thisseason has proved that the brandis still popular with the

independents as we have had arecord show, taking moreforward orders than in anyprevious year. “We also experienced successwith our new concept The BodyShoe, with the men’s Body Shoestyles being amongst the bestselling styles of the entire range.”

Record show for Hush Puppies

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A FAMILY run footwear store inPeterborough is collecting shoes forchildren in one of the poorestregions of Europe.

Footprints, owned by James North,has gathered over 375 pairs ofshoes from customers and localschool children as part of a charityappeal.

The store is asking customers tobring in their children’s outgrownfootwear when they come in for afitting, so that the old pair can helpa Kosovan child when the weatheris too cold to go to school withoutshoes.

The scheme is part of a project runby the Essex based charity Hopeand Aid Direct, which makeshumanitarian aid deliveries toKosovo twice a year and has beenspearheaded by PeterboroughMinster Rotary Club and clubtreasurer Alan Eldred.

He said: “We take it for granted inour western society that most of uscan afford to buy shoes for ourchildren.

“In Kosovo they cannot – andthose that have shoes cannotafford to replace them when theyhave grown out of them or wornthem out.”

In the two years that the projecthas been running over 3,000 pairsof shoes have been sent out toKosovo.

Organisers are now hoping toincrease the number of donations

they receive and so areencouraging people to keep giving.

They are especially keen to receivemore trainers and sports shoes as most of the children have never worn a real pair of footballboots.

James said: “When I took on thestore last year everyone was sokeen to keep the shoe donationsgoing – people like to know they

are helping others.

“Quite often when you fit a childwith new shoes the parents willcome back with their old shoes,plus other things like plimsolls andtrainers.

“In most cases children just growout of their shoes, footwear is sucha basic element that we take it forgranted, but it’s such a waste if oldshoes are thrown away.”

Stepping in to help Kosovan kids

James North and Rosemary Gray pack shoes bound for Kosovo Kosovan children with their new shoes

Action brand Etnies has launched a new range at JD Sports for 2010. The selection includesthe Jameson in four JD exclusive colourways and other styles such as Santiago, Cinch and LoCut 2.

GIO-GIO has released a new range of footwear styles andsilhouettes to complement its clothing offering.

Price points have been tiered to help makethe range suitable for clothing retailers andstand alone footwear stores.

The men’s collection features vulcanisedand cupsole high tops and mid heighttrainers with material combinationsincluding snake effects, texturedcanvas, perforated leathers andmesh nylons.

For women the brand’soffer includes denim laceup trainers, canvas hi-tops and a faux furlined boot.

Styles and silhouettes

Outdoor performance footwear manufacturer, Brasher,has introduced a new range of women’s boots as partof its autumn/winter 2010 collection.The launch comes as the brand announced sales for2009 were up eight per cent, with growth driven by the

brand’s fabric boots and multi activity and lifestyleranges.

Andy Loeber, MD, said: “A lifestyle range is theperfect opportunity for outdoor

retailers to sell every dayfootwear to their customersand enjoy incremental sales,

rather than simply leaving it tothe high street.”

Outdoor brandlaunches new rangefor winter

Performance skate shoe brand éS Footwear has announced that it will soon be available inSchuh stores nationwide. The store will be stocking six styles from this season’s collectionincluding three éS collaboration designs. These include new styles from Krooked Skateboardsteam riders Bobby Worrest and Mike Anderson and Japanese artist Ryuichi Ogino.

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designer spotlight


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but that doesn’t mean that peoplewant to be wearing plain styles ordull colours all the time.

“I have addressed this in my stylesmainly by lowering heel heights tomake the shoes wearable, and thenadding colours and textures tocapture the imagination.”

The Rae Jones collection is nowbeing stocked in a range ofindependent boutiques includingPoste Mistress, The Three Threadsand Mimi and after showing atLondon and Paris Fashion Weeks thisyear she supplies to stores in Europeas well.

She added: “People’s reaction to thebrand has been very positive,especially at London Fashion Week.

“It was the first time the shoes hadappeared at the show, so I was verypleased with such a good response.

“People also appreciate the fact thatthe shoes are Portuguese made,from high grade Italian leathers,

quality is very important.

“I would love to have themmanufactured in the UK, butunfortunately there just aren’t thewomen’s shoe factories around anymore to make that possible.”

Rachel is nowconcentrating onexpanding her rangeand is planning onintroducing aselection of bags tocoordinate with theshoes forspring/summer 2011and is alsoconsidering thepossibility of a men’sfootwear line.

She added: “I thinkmen’s footwear ishaving a real revivalat the moment – it isfinally reaching aplace that women’sfootwear reachedabout ten years ago.

“There is definitely a market formore interesting men’s shoes,although most will probably never beas adventurous as women, andcatering for that is something Iwould like to pursue.”

An expert in predicting the shoestyles of the future is putting herinsider knowledge to good use withher own footwear range. Stylescreated by Rachel Jones have nowbeen making waves at London andParis Fashion Week – Out On ALimb found out more.

Designer shoes thatare practical to wear

By Louise Cordell

Rachel Jones originally trained intextile designs, graduating from theGlasgow School of Art, before goingon to complete a postgraduatecourse in footwear design atCordwainers in London.

After undergoing training in bespokeshoemaking she went on to work atfashion forecasters WGSM, providingstyle predictions, trend research andanalysis.

She also found the time to co-edit abook on creating inspiring footwear,‘Shoe Design’, and branch out intofreelance teaching work.

However, two years ago, she madethe decision to start up her ownbrand, Rae Jones, creating a range ofwomen’s footwear from scratch.

Rachel said: “I had missed designing,that was what I had originally trainedto do, and I wanted to work withreal, hands on products again, ratherthan just with ideas, and have acreative outlet.

“I believed that I could producesomething that is often hard to findin footwear – shoes that arewearable but still interesting.”

She uses a combination of unusualmaterial and texture combinations,matching up different grains andhigh shine leathers with suede, all ina range of colour combinations.

Her aim is to create wearable shoesmade with longevity in mind –quality footwear that women canwear again and again, with everyoutfit in their wardrobe and reallyfeel a connection to.

Rachel added: “I know the footwearmarket well and I felt that what wasmissing was shoes that were designled, but still practical.

“A lot of designer shoes are toocatwalk or showy for everyday wear,

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boutique dps 25/3/10 11:34 Page 1

Exhibitors include UK handbag brandslike Fiorelli, Mischa Barton, Ri2k, Nica,Charlotte Reid, Storm, Sirco, Nova andNV bags, as well as many Europeanbrands like Roberta Gandolfi, TierryMugler, Gianni Conti, Abbacino, Arcadia,Barbara Milano, Hansson and Kontessa.

Others will be showing jewellery,scarves, watches and every other type offashion accessory.

The show has also been timed to fit inwith requests from the handbag andfootwear industry - just after the Paris andMilan fairs when collections have beenperfected to reflect emerging trends, whilestill early enough to allow bespoke forward orders to be delivered early in theselling season.

To book your place on the shuttle,pre- register, see the brand listings andfind more information on Boutique by Chicand Boutique Footwear, visit: www.boutique-by-chic.com.

An exclusive new area dedicated tofootwear is set to be unveiled at Boutiqueby Chic.

The new section will form a central focuswithin the show, which has been createdfor directional fashion buyers andEuropean fashion accessory brands.

Boutique by Chic is set to take placefrom 25 to 27 April at the Ricoh Arena inCoventry, which is easily accessible byroad or via a free shuttle service fromBirmingham international airport and railway station.

Since its launch in October 2008,Boutique by Chic has caused a sensationwith buyers thanks to its concept of grouping together carefully selected, highquality fashion brands from all over theworld in a luxurious environment.

This year the organisers have announceda ‘Moulin Rouge’ French theme which willstretch from the decor to the restaurantmenu.

Over 70 per cent of the brands are fromEurope and over 40 per cent of them donot show at any other UK show, givingbuyers the opportunity to gain an advantage over their competitors by offering customers something different.

jewellery, scarves, watches and every other type of fashion accessory

boutique dps 25/3/10 11:35 Page 2

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OSCAR winner Morgan Freeman andproducer Lori McCreary wore luxury, bespokeversions of their 46664 Bangles to theAcademy Awards this year. The bangle is the symbol of a socialinvestment company that raises money forNelson Mandela’s various charities and works

to create employment in South Africa.Morgan Freeman wore an ‘Invictus 46664Bangle’ in platinum, decorated with ethicallyproduced emeralds and black diamonds andLori McCreary wore a specially designed goldfiligreed African daisy design with conflictfree white diamonds.

Pitillos Shoes are made in La Rioja, Northern Spain.Nearly 40 years of manufacturing have made Pitillos one ofthe busiest shoe manufacturers in Spain making over twomillion pairs per year.The brand aims for quality design combined withcompetitive price points and products feature leatheruppers in finishes including croc and patent, rubber solesand high quality insoles.

The autumn/winter 2010 collection from Enzo of Florence features classic stylingwith strappy evening sandals and fashion shoes on high, medium and low heels.The range also includes both ankle and knee length boots and leather courtsmade with extra-flexible soles for comfort.

The latest collection from ethicaljewellery boutique Leblas aims tocombine traditional artistry withcontemporary chic.Founders Clare Winfield and ArabelLebrusan work to create finejewellery using traditional skills andsustainable materials.The company uses ethically sourceddiamonds and 100 per cent recycledgold, silver and platinum, sourcedfrom a single refinery.

Celebrities take their bangles to awards

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Riley Burnett’s winter 2010 collection has been created around the themes of saints andsymbols, worship and ritual. The range features trinkets and charms, brass, leather, silver andstones from throughout Ethiopia, India, Pakistan, Indonesia, Afghanistan and Bali –handcrafted into necklaces, bracelets, rings and earrings.

Miezko’s winter 2010 collection is inspired by punk rock, the 1940s, architecture and the1980s.The brand’s range includes footwear,handbags, bracelets and belts.The designs features metallic accessories andcome in a range of colourways including indigoblue, antique green, merlot, nude and brown.

Nadia Minkoff’s autumn/winter 10 collection has beencreated with a ‘London London’ theme, including manynew designs and a seasonal colour pallete.The range of handbags takes inspiration from areas ofthe capital city – sling bags for Camden, clutches forSloane Square, wallets for Oxford Street and boho-stylebags for Notting Hill.Nadia said: “This range is about the diversity andeclectic feel of London, the unique definition in its postcodes and a touch of British humour.”The collection is made up of soft leathers in shades ofpurple, wine, black, brown and grey with rabbit\fur andcrystal stud accessories.

LENA Erziak is a new line of luxuryhandbags, all handmade in Italy bythe finest artisans that Florence hasto offer.

Our spring 2010 collection includesbags made out of leather, python,and ostrich.

This collection stands out in its bolduse of color, and timeless elegance inits understated, yet chic styles. Pleasecheck out our website atwww.lenaerziak.com forphotographs of the Spring 2010collection.

Only in its second season, LenaErziak handbags have already gainedrecognition in People Style Watch,Life and Style, Audrey magazine, and

Instyle and will be on Gossip Girl thiscoming month. Lena Erziak is now sold at Fred Segaland Milk in LA, Stella Filante in NYC,and at many department stores inJapan.

For more information email: [email protected]

or call: +1 646 484 5895.

Luxury bags handmade in Italy

Beauty, sobriety,design, eleganceand quality are thecharacteristicsfound in thePuntotres range ofhandbags andaccessories.The Lupo brand is acombination ofquality and designand has proved a hiton the internationalmarket.For further detailson the brandcontact: AmaAgencies on 01280817448 or e-mail:[email protected]

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Kids

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THE autumn/winter2010 collection fromStart-rite includes twonew ranges aimed atexpanding the brand’snon-school offeringfor four to eight yearolds.

These include the newGola for Start-riterange of trainingshoes and thewaterproof range,Aqua-rite.

The girls’ styles havebeen created with a‘homespun’ theme,incorporatingneedlepoint details for a handcrafted look.

For boys, the theme is the mid-west,combining different suede andleisure textures.

Susan O’Hare, product director, said:“This season’s collection is anexciting one for Start-rite.

“Our waterproof range has

been under development for sometime to ensure it meets the highstandards that parents trust us for and we are delighted that it is ready for the autumn/winterseason.

“Our Gola for Start-rite rangefeatures a great selection for boysand girls that marks our commitmentto making a trainer offering part ofour range.”

Start-rite expandsnon-school shoerange for 2010

BABYSHOES carries one of thelargest supplies of in-stockcontinental baby shoes in the UK.

It has over 40 styles and 12 colours.

It has next day delivery service (freeon orders over £250) but does nothave a minimum order.

BabyShoes has won numerousawards including winner of theIndustry Design Awards 2008 andthe accolade of inclusion in theWho’s Who of Britain’s Business Elite.

The company has showrooms inManchester, Birmingham andGlasgow.

For more information contact Trevor on 0151280 3049, e-mail:

[email protected] or visit theirwebsite: www.babyshoes.co.uk.

Over 40 styles, 12 colours

EARLY Days, the Leicester-based babyshoe manufacturer, has just launcheda new collection of gold and silverpram shoes and first walkers to addto their already successful SpecialOccasion range.

Also new are white and ivory patentstyles with gold and silver detailingwith matching insoles.

Available from size 0(16) to 6(23),featuring bows, flowers anddiamante trims with deliveriesstarting in April.

For more information please contact:[email protected], call: 01162 716944or visit: www.earlydays.ltd.uk

Golden collection launched

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Product news


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Legero specialises ininnovative design andlightweight construction and isnow available to order in theUK and Ireland forautumn/winter 2010.The designs are not seasonalshoes, but part of a year roundbrand, with Gore-Texmembranes that meet thedemands of wet or dryweather, in the city or in thecountry.

ANATOMIC Gel has presented its new autumn/winter 2010collection to the trade, including arange of new leathers, suedes andstyles.

The shoes are made with paddedankle supports, smooth internalseams, full anatomic footbeds andsheep leather linings.

The brand is sold in over 65countries including Japan and NewZealand and is also starting a newstrategy for the US and Canadianmarket for 2010.

Moema Pimentel, the brand’screative director, said: “We knowthat our shoes attract not just moremature men, but also younger menthat found it difficult to make thetransition to normal shoes withleather soles. We think our newleathers will also attract even moreof the younger generation.”

Collection aims toattract youngergeneration

The Sledgersbrand is part of Noel Entreprises,one of the strongest French shoemanufacturers, and specialises in qualityand comfort shoes formen. After successfullaunches in manyforeign countries,Sledgers is nowapproaching the UKmarket.The range featuresleather uppers andlinings andantibacterial,removeable insoles.The brand has alsolaunched the concept of ‘airport friendly’shoes, which allow the customers to keepon the shoes through airport security.

J Shoes has been drawinginspiration from the traditionalfootwear from the Netherlandsand Sweden and the clog isstaging a comeback in modernproportions for spring/summer2010.Combining that with a retro feelfrom the 70s, the brand isintroducing its Province range ofclog-inspired sandals, in twonew upper patters, Bloom andFern.The J Shoes clog inspiredstyles feature wood platformswith signature stud tacking,along with simple leather uppers and floral embossed trompe l’oeil design work as details.

Leather bag range launchedFOR Aura Que’s Autumn/Winter2010 collection, designer LauraQueening has created a range ofhigh-quality leather bags withbanana fibre handknitted panels.

The range has been inspired byformal clothing details like men’sbraces, incorporated into functionaland wearable designs.

Laura works directly with Nepalese

Fair Trade producers and local familybusinesses for all elements of eachproduct, with the aim of promotingNepalese materials and ethicalproduction.

The collection includes handbags,clutches, zip purses, shoppers andscarves and materials used in thecollection include banana yarn fibre,allo hemp, yak wool, raw silk andcashmere.

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JAMES McGowan and partner DouglasAarvold set up their exclusive Paez UKfranchise last summer after discovering thebrand while living and studying in Argentina.

The shoes were first created in 2007 and area completely new style, similar to espadrillesand inspired by the traditional ‘Gaucho’design.

James and Doug launched the brand to UKretailers at Pure and received a greatresponse, with orders coming in from storesaround the country, from Cornwall toScotland.

James said: “Doug and I had spent time inArgentina a few years ago where we hadseen the shoes and always thought that theywould do well in the UK.

“However, until we took the plunge I wasdoing logistics work in Dubai and Doug wasin commodities training – so it’s a bigchange for us both.

“If you’d asked us eight months ago I don’tthink we would have believed this is whatwe’d be doing – but we are both passionateabout the product and the authentic,Argentine way of life it represents.”

There are over 60 styles of Paez shoesincluding an eco shoe made from hemprather than canvas and a special range ofMini-Paez for children.

The canvas uppers are also ideal forcustomisation, and James and Doug arealready planning the launch of a Paez artcompetition, looking for aspiring designers

to create a new shoe for the brand’s nextcollection.

The pair will also be setting up Paez paintingstations at festivals and fairs throughout thesummer, providing plain styles thatcustomers can then draw their own designson to.

James added: “I think the great thing aboutthese Paez is that they aren’t trying to beanything more than a pair of practical andcomfortable summer shoes, that people willwear, love and then buy again.

“They are also 100 per cent authentic toArgentina and that is really important to us –we want to promote the brand through ourlove of the country and bring some of thatway of life to the UK.”

The brand’s fair trade roots are also a bigpart of the shoes’ appeal and James isplanning on setting up a webcam from theirinternet site directly into the factory, so thatcustomers can see exactly where the productis coming from.

They will also be having each pair of shoesnumbered, so that the customer will be ableto trace their own pair right back to theperson who made it.

James added: “We are offering stock tostores on a trail basis so that they can seethe great reaction they get for themselves,visiting the trade shows, and will be at theLondon markets throughout the summer –we just want to bring the shoes to as manypeople as possible.”

A brand new style of shoe, inspired by the laid back lifestyle of Argentina, is being introduced to the UK – Out On ALimb found out more.

Shoe launch takes pairin a new direction

A limited numberof the winningHush PuppiesShoeperstar designis now available inSchuh stores. Thechosen style, Lola,was created byLaura Berry andimpressed thejudges by beingcomfortableenough to copewith a hecticlifestyle, but with afashionable,modern twist.Laura originallydesigned the shoesin black and whitefor versatility, butan additionalpurple colourwayhas now beenadded to the range.

New concept collectionHUSH Puppies has launched a newconcept collection called the BodyShoe.

The range for men and womenconsists of athletic inspired casuals,from sandals to high heels, allfeaturing a new comfort system.

They feature new Bio Beveltechnology – a bevelled heel and toethat increases walking efficiency byencouraging an easier, smoother andmore natural walking motion.

The shoes’ fit is achieved by usingprecise moulds that are anatomicallycorrect so that the foot is properlyenveloped for comfort.

David Bok, vice president of HushPuppies global product development,said: “With so many brands outthere selling footwear that will ‘rockyou fit’, ‘put a gym in your shoes’ or‘wobble’ your health issues away, wesaw a need for shoes that are notgimmicky but rather have a real andpositive effect on the wearer’shealth.”

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retail review


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STEVEN Bulloch first saw thebusiness potential in footwearretailing when his wife started workin a shoe shop seven years ago. He was so convinced he could makeit work, he left his job in the family’stextile business and the pair openedup their first store in Otley soonafterwards, followed by branches inBradford and Pontefract.They have now set up their fourthpremises in Barnsley, and aim toreach a total of ten stores in the areawithin the next two years. Steven said: “Our stores have allbeen very successful and I think thatis down to our first simple rule – wedon’t borrow and we pay everyoneup front before we pay ourselves. “It seems easy, but it is surprisinghow rare it is in the retail business. “It means that we maintain greatrelationships with our suppliers, wepay them well, and we reap thebenefits of that with good serviceand prices. Steven’s model is to take on small,efficient units, that result in goodturnover and allow the business toremain flexible. Currently all the stores have thesame kind of layout and brandingand offer a wide range of matchingshoes and bags to attract differenttypes of customers. He added: “It is essential to beflexible – you have to be bold ifsomething is not working and bewilling to move on and trysomething new. “For example, I am planning onrelocating my Bradford branchbefore long – not because it isn’tmaking money, but because it is notgrowing at the rate I would like and Ithink we can have more successelsewhere. “This is why I only take on a lease if

there is the option to break it aftertwo years.“Retailers should remember thatthings like rental terms and prices arenegotiable, especially when thingsare quiet, and it is possible to takeadvantage of that.” The average price point for productsin the stores is around £30 to £60,although they also carry some moreexpensive styles for customerslooking for something for a specialoccasion. Steven also maintains a high level ofstock turnover, buying in a maximumof 12 pairs of each style beforemoving on to something new. He has found that a fresher lookkeeps customers coming backregularly with popular brandsincluding Tamaris, Bourne, Luna,Marco Tozzi and Sketchers. Steven also has no plans to moveinto online sales, unlike many otherfootwear stores. He said: “I don’t think e-tailingwould work for us. I’m a firmbeliever in the fact that people liketo try shoes on – they are a tactileproduct and for most people it isimportant to see them in the flesh. “I feel that moving sales online is theequivalent of opening up another,separate businesses, and if that’s theonly way I can make money, then Imight as well close my shops down!“We have found a model that workswell for us, but it is clear that peopleare short of money at the moment.“The reason we are still doing well isthat we are sensible with money andthe businesses that can do this willbe the ones that survive. “It is important to remember thatthere will always be people spendingif the price and product are right –its just a matter of finding the rightcombination.”

A Yorkshire retailer has found theformula for success with hischain of women’s shoe stores. OOuutt OOnn AA LLiimmbb asked The ShoeRoom’s Steven Bulloch to sharehis secrets.

Steven’ssimplerule isbreedingsuccess

Words: Louise Cordell

Pictures:Kyle Wilkinson

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21 Panama Jack 25/3/10 10:45 Page 1

News


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FOOTWEAR

TRAINING RETAIL SOLUTIONS

FOOT CARE

AGENTS

If you would like to advertise in Out on a Limb

please contact Bev Green on 01226 734288

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News

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Nitelife Footwear is a UK companyspecialising in exotic and erotic footwear for diverse markets including the clubwearand fetish scenes.Owner Brian Irwin had an establishedbackground in mainstream shoe and bootmanufacture before starting up the companyand is now the main UK and Europeansupplier in his field. This year he has plansto expand with the appointment of a newmarketing manager, a website overhaul andthe finalisation of a new range.

Caprice are renowned for their comfort footwear and leading innovative comfort technology.Their products are protected by several registered European patents which are the technicalconversions of their central idea of ‘Walking on Air’.Caprice customers appreciate the combination of high fashion, comfort and wellness whichare essential features of all Caprice products.

Greeper Laces, the shoe lace system, isbecoming more and more popular withcustomers and retailers.The patented shoe laces system has been featured on ITV’s ‘This Morning’programme and, once fitted to the shoes the laces are easily loosened and tightened and are guaranteed to never come

undone.For the retailer they offer a new and addedsales proposition at the point of purchase.For the service orientated outlet, the retailercan even offer to fit the laces to the shoesand demonstrate how easy and convenientthe laces are and simple demonstrator unitsare also available.

Arjun brings his latestcollection to the UKA TRAINER designer is bringing hislatest collection to the UK to meetthe growing demand for moreadventurous styles.

Arjun Seth launched his Bamboo Arange after deciding that there was agap in the market for a luxury,lifestyle brand of designer trainers.

He said: “I felt that there were a lotof style conscious men out therewho take pride in their appearanceand want shoes that offer comfort,but with a designer, well-groomedlook.

“Some styles are sporty and some

are more elegant.”

Arjun started his footwear career inHong Kong working in productdevelopment, quality control andmarketing for his family’s businessAscot International.

After returning to the UK he starteddesigning men’s and women’s shoefor the brand, before the opportunitycame up to launch his own styles.

He added: “Fashionable styles aremuch more commercially acceptablein the UK now, but we have had towait a long time for the market to beready for what we are trying to sell.

“The brand has been popular inmany other countries before wecould even launch it in the UK –places like Spain, Italy and Australiawhere they are more adventurous.

“We have around 160 accounts inthe UK now, and the shoes areespecially popular in the North wheremen seem more willing to take riskswith their look.”

Despite this development, Arjun hasfound that his UK buyers are stillmore likely to take on new styles atleast a season later than the otherEuropean countries the brand sellsto.

To cater for this, he has now alteredhis production schedules resulting ina second, later batch especially forthe UK market.

He added: “We have also found thatit is well worth altering the newranges we come up with to suit thecountries they are going out to.

“It is difficult and time consuming totweak the designs for each differentmarket, but it is important if youwant sales to increase and for brandpopularity to spread.”

Arjun is now hoping to take BambooA into more stores and multiplesaround the UK with the help of anew marketing campaign.

The brand has been involved withrecent film promotions includingBruce Willis’ Surrogates and GerardButler’s Gamer and has nowrecruited a group of street artistswho will be videoed promoting theshoes at account stores around thecountry.

Arjun Seth

NEW funding has become availablefor women in England wanting tosign up for the Society of ShoeFitters course.The scheme is part of thegovernment’s Women in theWorkplace initiative, however thefinancial support available is limitedin comparison to previous years. The course is due to start on 1October, however, in order to receivea refund for a large percentage ofthe fee, women in the industry needto apply for the course and fundingas soon as possible. To apply, those interested shouldcomplete the SSF course applicationform, which is available online atwww.shoefitters-uk.org, and e-mailit to Laura West, SSF secretary,requesting funding details. The financial support will beawarded on a ‘first come, firstserved’ basis, so anyone wanting totake part should get in touchimmediately.

New funding

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out on a limb (april/may 2010)

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