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Drop a size withthe right shoes

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Austerity leads tolower heels

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Police appeal overdistinctive shoe

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December 2011/January 2012 33

Designer Guy passeson lessons he’s learnedBy Nicola Hyde

ONE of the co-founders behindurban men’s brand Jeffery-Westgave a talk to students at DeMontfort University this month.

Guy West – who founded Jeffery-West shoes with childhood friendMark Jeffery in 1987 – went toLeicester to talk about footweardesign and the lessons he haslearned in almost 25 years as amen’s shoe designer.

The duo began the business whenthey were just 16 and began bybuying rejects and samples fromJeffery’s father’s shoe factory,customising them, and selling them

on at markets in Northamptonshireand London. But in 1987 – whenJeffery’s father died and the factorywas lost – the friends decided tolaunch their own label.

Guy said: “My biggest achievementis going into retail and having myown store. My advice to studentsstudying footwear design is to goout and get experience once yourdegree is completed.

“It is essential that once you havegained key skills from being atuniversity, that you then go andutilise these and get some solidwork experience. The path I tooksome years ago would be difficultnow. You need a good track record

and to have gained invaluableexperience before you can start yourown collection.

“I’m very focused on what I do.Having my own business, like anybusiness, can get hectic, but beingfocused and working hard is why Ihave achieved what I have.”

Head of Footwear Design, KevinGuildford, added: “It was a pleasureto have such an iconic footweardesigner visit us and give suchenlightening talk to our students.Guy’s career story was bothinformative and enlightening and will inspire students who aspire to create their own brand or business.”

A FLEDGLING shoe companywhich secured support froma TV dragon is celebrating asuccessful year after a rapidexpansion.

WedgeWelly – which wasthought up by a group offriends who were watchingGlastonbury and decided thatwellies needed to be morefashionable – now exports toten countries and has wonnumerous awards andcelebrity fans like DanniiMinogue, The Saturdays,Nicole Sherzinger, AlexandraBurke, Jessie J, and new XFactor judge Tulisa.

The company – whichdesigns wellies with a wedgeheel – entered Dragon’s Denand won £65,000 fundingfrom Theo Paphitis (inexchange for a 25 per centstake in the company).

Sarah Longthorn said:“People are always interestedto know how involved Theo isin our business.

“We can honestly say hisinvolvement and that of histeam has exceeded allexpectations.

“Theo’s not only financed ourgrowth, but his mentorshiphas enabled us to developquickly.

“We feel very privileged tohave him on board. TheDragons’ Den experience hashad a significant impact onthe success of ourbusiness.”

WedgeWelly has now teamedup with the UK retailer JohnLewis to launch an exclusivecollection, the WedgeWellyMisfitz range.

TV dragon carrieson supporting

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4 December 2011/January 2012 News

HIGH Street giant Debenhamsclaims it has a formula to makewomen drop a dress size inseconds – just by choosing the righttype of shoe.

It says the slimming effect is soapparent that – when asked toguess the dress size of the samewoman in two images – peopleshown the image of her wearing theslimming shoes gave an average ofone dress size smaller than thoseshown a picture of her without themagic shoes on.

Debenhams technologists createdthe formula when they noticed anonslaught of celebrity women,including Kate Middleton, VictoriaBeckham and most recently EdMiliband's wife Justine wearingsimilar nude high heels.

The formula for the perfect pair ofslimming shoes is as follows:(colour + platform + height + heelwidth) – ankle strap = slimming, oras it is written in short-hand: (C +P + H + HW) – AS = S.

A spokesman said: “For thosewanting to look slimmer in their

dresses, they must first choose anude-coloured shoe which matchestheir skin tone.

“This works as an extension of theleg. Platforms should be concealedand should have at least acentimetre in depth to ensuremaximum lengthening.

“Heel height is critical and it isadvised that women choose three-inch or higher heels. This providesadded height and instantly gives aslimming effect. Heel width shouldalso be considered.

“Thick heels draw the eye andbreak the illusion, so stiletto heelsare recommended.

“The final aspect of the formula isankle straps. According to theformula, ankle straps should beavoided at all costs as they cut theleg short, making them look shorterand wider.”

High profilers who currently benefitfrom this sneaky cheat are A-listerssuch as Beyonce Knowles, VictoriaBeckham, Alesha Dixon, Jessie Jand Sarah Jessica Parker. Beyonce Knowles. Credit Helga Esteb / Shutterstock.com

Drop a dresssize with theright shoes

HARRY Potter author JKRowling’s boots that shewore while writing ThePhilosopher’s Stone havebeen auctioned off.

The boots – which weregiven to a primary school in1999 – were part of aschool project which askedabout the ‘life’ of a famouspair of shoes when JKRowling not only filled inthe questionnaire she wassent by a student, but also

sent the boots with it aswell.

According to thequestionnaire: “My ownerwas wearing me when shewrote several chapters of‘Harry Potter and thePhilosopher's Stone’, and Iliked that because it gaveme a rest. She also woreme when she was ateacher, and one boy madefun of me, which I didn'tappreciate.”

Harry Potterauthor’s bootsauctioned off

ISPO Munich is gathering pace after it had recordnumbers for its sporting goods show. Industrystalwarts like Ecco and Sigg have registered for thefirst time for next year’s event. A spokesman said:“This is an impressive validation of the trade show’sinternationally significant position for the importantOutdoor industry. However, other communities arealso experiencing new additions, among them Li Ning,X Bionic X-Technology and Nixon.”ISPO Munich is from January 29 to February 1.

Stalwarts register for Munich

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6 December 2011/January 2012 News

EXPERTS using computer analysisto predict a change in trends saywomen’s heel heights are going toget lower.

The study, by IBM, consideredbillions of social media postspredicts that women’s heels –which are currently very high – areexpected to reduce in futurecollections.

Dr Trevor Davis, consumerproducts expert with IBM GlobalBusiness Services, said: “Usually,in an economic downturn, heelsgo up and stay up – as consumersturn to more flamboyant fashionsas a means of fantasy andescape.

“This time, something different ishappening – perhaps a mood oflong term austerity is evolvingamong consumers sparking adesire to reduce ostentation ineveryday settings.”

Heel heights over the last 100years have varied depending onsocial and economic positioning,according to the research.Platforms were revived during the1970s, reversing the preferencefor low-heeled sandals in the late1960s and the low, thick heels ofthe 1990s gave way to ‘Sex and

the City’-inspired stilettos followingthe dot-com bust at the turn ofthe century.

Dr Trevor Davis says an analysis ofthe last four years of social mediaposts and blog platforms showedthat discussions of increasing heelheight peaked towards the end of

2009, and declined after that.

Key trend-watching bloggersbetween 2008 and 2009 wroteconsistently about heels from fiveto eight inches, but by mid 2011they were writing about the returnof the kitten heel and the perfectflat from Jimmy Choo and

Louboutin.

IBM used special analyticssoftware to search billions ofsocial media posts to identifyindividuals discussing shoes. Itthen filtered through thousands ofposts to find ones specificallyrelated to heel height.

Austerity leads to lower heels

Former X-Factor judge Cheryl Cole will launch her first capsule shoe collectionthis month. She has teamed up with Stylistpick.com for the range which is partof a wider collaboration between the fashion service website. The Girls Aloudsinger will also be choosing her favourite fashion pieces from the onlineretailer's collection as well as sharing style tips with users.

Customers star in ads COMFORT brand Hotter Shoes haslaunched a new TV advert thatfeatures actual customers of thebrand.

The company interviewed a panel ofcustomers to find out what theyliked about the brand – and four ofthem were chosen to take part inthe filming.

Customers Marianne Welsh, JoanShawcross and Jenni Rhodes own46 pairs between them and saythey have worn the shoes for over26 years.

One in every three pairs of shoesthat are currently made in the UKare now made in Hotter’sLancashire factory, with ‘comfortconcept’ features such aslightweight, flexible soles, wiggleroom for toes and soft underfootcushioning hidden in every pair.

Hotter’s TV advert features aselection of footwear, includingwomen's boots for the winterseason, casual shoes for catchingup with friends, smart heels for workand sporty shoes for exercising.

FOOTWEAR brand SIX London hasteamed up with six influentialfashion bloggers to create a limitededition footwear range.

The partnership – which was broker-ed through website farfetch.com –will see the collection launched atParis Fashion Week.

Paul Brine, spokesperson forfarfetch.com, said: “Fashionbloggers are usually looking to findthe latest thing in designer clothing,but this project gave them theunique opportunity to create thenext big thing themselves.”

The six fashion bloggers who tookpart in the project were; SteveSalter of Style Salvage; Yvan Rodicof Face Hunter; Susie Lau of StyleBubble; Alix Bancourt of The CherryBlossom Girl; Caroline Blomst ofCarolines Mode; and LeandraMedine of The Man Repeller.

Each blogger was tasked to designtheir dream shoe with the help ofSIX London and expert shoemakersin Portugal.

Paul added: “These fashion bloggershad a unique insight into thefashion world that has resulted insome breathtaking shoe designs.”

Fashion bloggersteam up with SIX

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News December 2011/January 2012 7

BEATLES icon Ringo Starr hasteamed up with footwear brandTimberland for a limited editionrange that will raise money forcharity.

A limited edition range ofEarthkeepers footwear will beauctioned off for the Canvas ThatCares programme – and Ringo haslent his original peace sign artworkto the boot collection.

Proceeds from the auction, whichkicked off December 1 on eBay, willbenefit WaterAid, a non-profitdedicated to improving access tosafe water, sanitation and hygienein the world's poorest communities.

Mike Harrison, Timberland’s brandofficer said: “We're thrilled about

the Canvas That Cares programme,and could not think of a betterpartner for our launch than RingoStarr.”

“For nearly 40 years, Timberlandhas followed a mantra of ‘doing welland doing good’. Beyond hisundisputed influence on musichistory, Ringo, too, has long beenknown for his commitment to socialjustice. We have a great opportunityto join forces and raise much-needed funds for a highly deservingorganisation.”

Ringo’s original design will appearon 75 pairs of the boots, each ofwhich he signed personally – it isthe first time in more than threeyears that he has autographed anymemorabilia.

Ringo Starr

Ringo teamsup withTimberland

Murder police appealover distinctive shoe FOOTWEAR industry stalwarts havebeen drafted in by police who aresearching for a murder suspect whowas wearing a distinctive shoe.Northamptonshire Police contactedthe Society of Shoe-Fitters whoimmediately contacted theirmembers after a distinctive treadpattern was found at a murderscene.Spokesman Laura West said: “Weare lucky to have some of the bestand most knowledgeable people inthe industry as members. It wouldbe great to help solve this and if thefootwear industry can't pull out allthe stops to help, it's a poor show.”Rob Faricy, the detective in charge

of the investigation, said in hisemail request for help that themurder took place in April inNorthampton.He added: “We are experiencingsignificant difficulties in identifying afootwear mark recovered from thescene, despite employing theservices of experts from theForensic Science Service, KeyForensics, Napier Associates, SATRATechnologies and various industrycontacts through the BFA.”The investigation is looking into themurder of an entire family –including two children. A number offootwear marks were found at thescene and officers believe it is avital clue.

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8 December 2011/January 2012

UK move forKim

Starts Page 9

Brand spotlight -JJ Shoes

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Features

Exhibition forFrench designer

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CHARITY Footwear Friends is in its175th year and it was decided that,this year, the celebration should beall about young entrepreneurs.

Entries were invited and youngindustry designers were invited tosubmit their work into the awardsceremony – and go through aDragon’s Den-style experience withthe judges to convince them theyhad the drive to succeed in theindustry.

The awards evening was held inNovember at the Musical Museum

in Kew and saw almost 200 industrystalwarts gather together to raisefunds for the charity and celebratethe industry.

Spokesman Richard Kottler said:“Again this year we have seen anincrease in applicants, and wereimpressed by the quality of the workthat is being done.

“It is always difficult to choosebetween so much talent but we feelthat the winners were those whonot only had exciting product butbusiness acumen as well, and as

such will develop into major playersin the footwear industry.

“We have had extraordinarily goodquality entries from young designersand entrepreneurs – sadly thereis only room for three winnersof the awards, but there is nodoubting the quality of ourhomegrown talent.”

At the event Katie Greenyer, creativedirector at Pentland was thekeynote speaker and Savina Barnesof Stylistpick won the ‘Year’s Worthof Shoes’ Raffle’, donated by Dune.

The fifth annualFootwear Friendsawards have beenheld last month atthe MusicalMuseum, Out On ALimb reports.

Pictures courtesy of Ray Morris-Hill

Rising stars honouredat awards evening

The winners were:

The Footwear FriendsDesigner Award Rose Choules, was presentedwith a £5,000 bursary aimedat furthering her businessand expertise, She was givena 12-month mentoringprogramme from industryexperts and was presentedher award by Robert Lusk,one of the judges and ownerof the Boot Tree.

The Meltzer Travel AwardThis year’s award wentVictoria Spruce, and waspresented by Philip MeltzerShe won £750 to assist herin attending key trade shows.This award was made inmemory of Joe Meltzer andincludes a mentoringprogramme.

The FN/Platform Award The 2011 Award went toCocorose London. TheFN/Platform Award winner isgiven the opportunity to showtheir emerging brand on asponsored stand at the USA’spremier footwear show –Magic in Las Vegas. This waspresented by Nicholas ParryBillings of the BritishFootwear Association.

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Features December 2011/January 2012 9

Retailers have always faced one challenge oranother when making the business work - butone they never saw coming, they claim, wasthat they would one day be in competitionwith their suppliers. Nicola Hyde reports forOut On A Limb.

BLOOMFIELDS in Surrey hasbeen selling shoes since 1847 –it’s an established, family-runbusiness off the main HighStreet that has always made aname for itself by its strongbrands and customer loyalty.

But manager Trevor Seymourspeaks frankly about its futureand says, if things don’t change,they will be forced to closewithin a year.

He claims his major competitiorsare no longer just other shoeshops – but actually themanufacturers who has suppliedhis shop for decades who arestarting to sell their ownproducts online, offering specialoffer deals that aren’t availableto retailers.

One brand in particular used tobe a Bloomfields best-seller,with 30 to 40 pairs a week flyingoff the shelves. Now, only aboutseven or eight pairs a week go.

Trevor said: “We have a goodnumber of people who come into the shop – they try boots on,check the size and copy theproduct number. They will comeback later – but they never comeback because they are straighton to the manufacturer’s websiteto see if they can get it on the

internet for cheaper.

“Some sites are offering acheaper price, cheap postageand returns which is justsomething we cannot competewith.

“Our sales are down 75 per centand we are having to try to thinkof ways to make up for that, It’sa lot of trade to lose.”

Trevor says he is frustratedbecause some brands – while heacknowledges have always givenretailers lots of good advice andsupport - have now moved thegoal posts.

He added: “Small retailers arenow in direct competition withour manufacturers and this isthe future of trading. They’vegone from giving you greatsupport, to this.

“We just don’t know which wayto go - manufacturers areopening up their own shops andbecoming retailers. It’s like theyhave stabbed us in the back. Ihave spoken to other retailerswho feel the same – what if weall stopped stocking thesebrands? What if we hadn’tsupported them over the years?They would be bankrupt that’swhat.”

Retailer fearfulover internetsales threat

REALITY TV star Kim Kardashian hasbrought her LA-based shoe businessto the UK market.ShoeDazzle.co.uk has launchedwhich offers shoe, handbag andjewellery styles selected by a teamof top stylists.ShoeDazzle – tipped as the world’spremier online styling service –already has over three millionmembers in America and over amillion fans on Facebook.The team of stylists select productsfrom their fashion lines to suitcustomers individual style – andevery product is the same price,£39.95. Users are encouraged tomake their own style profile so bagsand shoes can be recommended tothem on a monthly basis.

UK movefor Kim ...

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10 December 2011/January 2012 Features

Out on a Limb cover story

Editor’scomment

Nicola Hyde Editor

RECESSION is biting – the words wehear every day in terms of how itaffects the footwear industry, witheverything from sale dates toforward ordering being affected.

But there’s a challenge hovering onthe horizon that – while it isn’t new– is forever changing. Many of ourreaders have had shops for years,bringing a wealth of retailexperience and expertise to theirbusiness ... but it is perhaps thosesame people that are finding it achallenge to embrace the so-called‘new media’.

Shoe shops are being increasinglybombarded with tips on how tomake the best use of the internet:have a selling website that supportsyour shop; have a Facebook page toincrease brand loyalty and publiciseevents; use Twitter and YouTube togather a younger clientele.

And now, a new expectation fromcustomers – m-commerce, theability to buy goods using yourmobile phone.

eBay are trialling it in London in anactual store – and you can only buyan item if you pay through paypalon your mobile phone.

Smart retailers will be looking at m-commerce and the way they canutilise it – and experts have alreadyadvised things like QR (quickreference) codes that can bescanned on a smart phone and linkdirectly to your website should beprinted on your business cards andeven carrier bags.

What do you think of the changingface of retail? We’d love to hear fromyou. Email nh@scriptmedia.co.uk

Internetpresents achallengeto industry

FEATURED cover style is from thenew range for 2012.

Front shoes continue to add crispclean semi formal styles to therealready strong classic formalcollection.

As a brand that has built on itsattitude to offer good service to itscustomers in providing a good instock range that enables thecustomer to buy on a regular basisall through the year.

Front classic formal styles are wellreceived by the buying public andhave built up a good reputation foroffering the wearer a verycomfortable shoe along with thestyle that the modern man requires.

The range for 2012 continues thecommitment to provide a strongformal range which has beenenhanced with key casual styles that

will appeal to all.

The complete range will beshowcased at the up commingModa show 19-21 February. StandT5 Hall 20.

Front is a customer focussed shoebrand that continues to provide the

service of supplying good qualitymen’s shoes to the independentretailer.

For further details, contact JamesChallis, sales manager on 077 9512

6471; 020 8773 7851 or emailinfo@frontshoes.com

Front aims to stayahead of its rivalswith new range

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Since the early 1980's there has been an on-going debate about theneed for JJ Footwear to start specialising in multiple width fittings,rather than rely on foot size alone. A decade ago that discussion becamereality and created the momentum which now sees our company, JJFootwear, recognised for its expertise in export markets around theworld. JJ Footwear is now sold by more than 1500 retailers in almost20 countries. We believe we owe this success to our vision and belief inthe width fitting concep. Whilst the width fitting concept is relativelynew, JJ Footwear has decades of experience and expertise as well as ateam of committed employees who strive to put the needs of ourcustomers first.

That experience has been handed down by three generations of shoemakers. The grandfathers of two of today’s board members had shoefactories which were renowned for quality and fit. Hardly surprisingthen that almost 100 years later the company still holds dear its originalvalues of quality, comfort and fit. In fact that is precisely what JJFootwear is all about. Before designing our first pair of boots we wentback to basics and began looking at what women really wanted and wesoon developed our mission: to accept that women love footwear, butunderstand that beauty does not come in a one size fits all package. Forthis reason, we have designed a unique range of footwear in multiplewidth fittings, which will make any women who is wearing any one of

our creations feel confident of a perfect fit in gorgeous footwear. Inorder to achieve this we undertook a really detailed study that looked at the ankle,feet and calf measurements of a large group of women.This gave us the raw data we needed to begin designing our collections,It has taken almost a decade to perfect our science and we are now ableto take the process a stage further by 'confectionising" our boot designsin the way we take the footwidth and link it to the width of the calf.Meaning that we are able to offer the consumer the perfect fittingboot.

We don't intend to stop there. Our new collection of Autumn/Winterboots includes all the classic JJ Footwear creations, such as the Niadarange that owes its enviable simplicity to the vogue for all thingsequestrian. In 2012, JJ Footwear will expand the collection with theaddition of our new desert and wedge boot designs.The sophisticated design twists lend themselves to the smooth suedeand calf skin leather. Traditional Oxford style lacing add shape to thesilhouette whilst the overall design features of the heel countermaintain the signature JJ Footwear comfort and style. Of course we alsotake this a step even further, as all of our boots have removable insolesand are suitable to wear with orthotic aids . You'd never know of course,as the whole range, whether a size 35 or 44, G or K fit, XS or 6XW calffitting all deliver the ultimate in style, classic elegance and modernity.

Visit us at GDS, Hall 6, stand A15Moda, Hall 19, stand S28

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Features December 2011/January 2012 15

AN exhibition all about shoe-designer Christian Louboutinwill be launched for the firsttime next year by the DesignMuseum.

The French designer iscredited with pushing theboundaries of shoe designand is known for hissignature red sole.

The exhibition looks at 20years of Louboutin’s life –and the story behind hisshoe designs.

There will be a specialsection dedicated to theshoes designed for ‘Fetish’an exhibition at the LaGallerie Du Passage, Paris in2007 where he collaboratedphotography with DavidLynch.

It even features a tour ofevery stage of the designjourney to reveal how theshoes are contructed – frominitial drawing, to firstprototype, to production inthe factory.

It starts in March.

Picture credit:Photographer

PhillippeGarcia from

ChristianLouboutin

bookpublished by

Rizzoli

Exhibition forFrench designer

15 2/12/11 14:35 Page 1

Australian brand Ukala Sydney has taken strides into the UK market thanks to a new deal with Amazon UK.Ukala Sydney uses Merino wool and natural suede in the construction of its footwear designs. Brand manager MichaelSchaefer said: “We are very pleased with the rapid momentum Ukala has gained in the footwear market."In the UK, products will also be appearing in 40 USC stores and 200 selected Footlocker stores and the brand wants tofurther expand into the UK next year.

By Nicky Hyde

A NEW running shoe developed byTecnica has won an award at theOutdoor Trade Show.

The Diablo Max scooped the ‘BestFootwear Product of the Year’ awardat the 2011 Novel Awards afterbeing up against industry giantsTimberland and Wolverine.

The shoe uses the TRS (TecnicaRolling System) which gives stabilityon all types of terrain.

Spokesman Duncan Holme said:

“Obviously we are thrilled that theDiablo won this prestigious footwearaward and Tecnica is nowrecognised for its innovative andground-breaking designs.

“There was a lot of very positiveinterest at the show in the TecnicaTrekking range particularly in thedesign and quality of the products.

“We will be building on this successusing the novel award as a platformto show retailers that Tecnica can betaken seriously not only in the trailrunning field but also in the verycompetitive hiking arena.”

Running shoebeats industrygiants to scoopnational award

RAZOR sharp blogger Perez Hiltonhas designed two pairs of shoes foronline retailer ShoeDazzle - and allprofits will go to gay and lesbiancharities.

His designs are “Sparkle” - a blackfaux suede heel with silver studdetailing on the heel, platform anddual ankle straps and “Shine” - ametallic silver sneaker.

Blogger’s rangeto aid charities

Chatham addcolours andstyles to rangeCHATHAM Marine has introducednew styles and new colours for itstop sellers.

Brand new is the slip-on Fowlerdeck shoe from the Chatham Liferange, plus two new deck shoes inthe casual Sport collection –Goodison and Bowker. For women,Chatham introduces the Kat G2.Combining a high quality technicalmesh with nubuck, Chatham offersa more feminine take on thetraditional deck shoe.

This ladies style features a new soleunit with water channels forexceptional stability on deck; a fullyremovable moulded foot bed sockfor exceptional comfort; andChatham’s unique two yearguarantee.

December 2011/January 2012 16

product showcase product showcase

New range boastsunique concept

Page 17

Lace brandlaunches collection

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Product showcase

School specialistadds to range

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product showcase

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17 December 2011/January 2012 Product showcase

JJ Footwear has introduceda new range of Moon bootswhich boasts the company’strademarked multiple widthfitting concept.

The collection wasintroduced into the AutumnWinter range late in theseason and was designed indirect response to requestsreceived from ourcustomers.

Taking their names fromthree of the most chillycities in Europe, Moscow,Reykjavik and Helsinki, themoon boots have all of thedesign features required forinclement weather.

The polyurethane outermeans the boots arecompletely water resistant,whilst the fur liningmaintains warmth andcomfort.

The company is allowingtraders to order individualpairs rather than a completerange and sizes areavailable in two calf fittings.

New range of bootsboast unique concept

The newrange ofMoon bootsfrom JJFootwear

Hot new shoe designer Cleo B has launched a new range for SpringSummer which features a first ever range of accessories.The collection draws inspiration from the golden age of 1980s hip hop,inspired by rap group Run DMC. Super high summer heels, classic wedges,brazen boots and statement sandals appear in a rainbow of poptastic 80scolours and a fresh array of materialsMini gold Cleo B cassettes embellish the toes and make a must-haveaddition to the brand’s already popular range of shoe clips.

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18 December 2011/ January 2012 Kool for Kids incorporating Kids @ Moda Product Showcase

SHOE lace brand Mr Lacyhas launched a completejunior collection just forkids.

Mr. Lacy started with asmall collection of ashorter version (43inches) of the popular‘Flatties’ model, whichwas a big hit for kid’sfootwear retailers and ithas now launched a fullcollection of kid’s laces,in colours like LipstickPink, Mellow Blue andNeon Yellow.

The collection alsoincludes the Junior ‘Glowin the Dark’ lace.

Since the launch of Mr.Lacy in 2002, the labelhas launched more thantwo hundred different lacestyles and colours.

It has internationaldistribution partners inforty countries throughoutEurope, Africa, Australia,Asia and America.

Lace brand launchesnew junior collection

Pod footwear has created a new back to school range with two mainprice brackets to make it easier for retailers.The core range consists of their signature styles which feature wipe-clean scuff and stain resistant leathers uppers, breathable fabric liningsand durable flex rubber soles. New features include hologram brandingand panelled upper designs with sizes on selected styles now range froman EU size 27 through to 52. Pod have maintained the same price pointas their previous back to school season - and have achieved arecommended retail price point £5 below the core Pod range for the newcollection which has a new sole unit.

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product showcaseproduct showcase product showcase

Product showcase Kool for Kids incorporating Kids @ Moda December 2011/ January 2012 19

A South African kids brand is growing in the UKthanks to its latest collections and designs.

Toughees - the strong school shoe brand - hasbeen developing its UK business for the last threeyears after being set up 50 years ago to retailleather shoes.

The brand is South Africa’s best selling schoolshoe, selling four million pairs each year and wasbrought to the UK by New Brands Limited whichsays it has filled a gap for a more traditionalshoe. A newcomer to the range is Toughees bootswhich will be available from February.

SCHOOL show brand Petasil has strengthened itsboys offer and added new fashion forward style toits girls range.

The brand - which is stocked in manyindependents - is made in Portugal and has madea name for itself with its stylish designs and highgrade manufacturing techniques.

A spokesman said: “Remember the days when

the ‘big’ brands were made in Europe instead ofrelabelled factory collections from the Near andFar East? Well with Petasil you can relive thosegood old days at a price that is both reasonableand commercial and enjoy all leather product thatis made the time honoured way.

“Remember leather linings? All Petasil schoolshoes are leather lined for optimum foot comfortand health.”

UK expansionfor kids’ brandPortuguese company

strengthens range

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acce

ssor

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20 December 2011/January 2012

By Nicky Hyde

QUIRKY bag manufacturer TheHealthy Back Bag have reported thatsales are rocketing and are forecastto double in 2012.

The company says sales are up 54per cent and has just revealed itsbiggest ever launch of new productsfor Spring/Summer next year.

Priscilla Chase, managing director,said: “The key to our current growthhas been our success in establishingThe Healthy Back Bag in a numberof vibrant international retailmarkets, however it is not all aboutglobal expansion.

“Yes, we are now in over 25countries worldwide, but we havealso seen growth in UK retail where,as we know, things have beendifficult to say the least.”

New products have been created tosupport three core themes: the Be

Excited range is about graphic printsand colour; Be Balanced takes itsinspiration from the worlds of health,beauty and sport and Be Essentialbrings together neutral, simple yetsubstantial colours with earthymaterials.

Priscilla added: “The Healthy BackBag was designed, and its uniqueshape patented, in the USA nearly20 years ago but it is today that it isseeing global recognition.

“As incredibly successful brandssuch as Fit Flop have shown us,people are not afraid to link fashionwith function or aspiration withcomfort and practicality.”

The Healthy Back Bag is nowavailable in 27 countries and comesin a variety of styles, over 30colours, 10 different fabrics andcurrently collaborates with threeBritish textile designers.

Firm reportsdramaticrise in sales

TOETOE® socks used the foot’snatural shape to bring maximumcomfort.

The socks allows for toe separation,which encourages independent toemovement that improves bloodcirculation and also improvesbalance and provides a sensation ofbetter grip and safer walking.

TOETOE® socks are made of thehighest quality cotton that is thinenough to wear with any shoes. Theaddition of Elastane makes thefabric highly “stretchy” so that thenumber of sizes required isminimized.

A number of styles have addedMerino Wool to maintain warm feet,and in some acrylic is included forincreased durability.

A spokesman said: “The highlyabsorbent organic cotton used inmany of the TOETOE® socks stylesensures naturally dry feet, butCoolMax is added to styles such asthe sports range to ensure rapidremoval of excess moisture betweenthe toes leaving a clean and odourfree environment.”

New sockallows forseparation

A BRAND which started with just250 bags in production that soldout within weeks has expanded itsrange.

Calypso Rose launched her ownbrand Clippy in 2004 after makingone bag on her kitchen table. Shehad the idea to display hercollection of Polaroid photographsso she used a clear plastic designand made a see-though bag withpockets.

A spokesman said: “Women –including Helena Bonham-Carter,Tara Palmer-Tomkinson and JoolsOliver - wanted to know where thebag came from. With a loan fromher family Calypso put 250 bagsinto production. The bags soldwithin weeks and Clippy wasformed.”

The bag is now a best sellingproduct in Harrods and Selfridgesand ranges are stocked indepartment store across Japan.

Bag rangeexpanded

20 2/12/11 14:34 Page 1

21 December 2011/January 2012 Accessories

21 Style Gallery 2/12/11 12:16 Page 1

22 December 2011/January 2012 Business + Technology

Your next store should beonline, according to Nick Pratt,managing director atSitemakers Ltd.

RETAIL sales are growing by 16per cent year-on-year, new storesare opening daily, and storeowners are investing heavily withthe realistic expectation ofcontinued profitable growth into2013.

Is this a retail industry that yourecognise?

It is, in fact, the prevailing viewfrom a part of the retail industrythat has managed to growstrongly throughout the recessionand during the ongoing economictroubles.

The woes of high street retailinghave been exacerbated by thestructural changes taking placewithin the retail industry as awhole.

Consumers are shifting theirspending onto the internet at afaster rate than ever before, andin the absence of overall growth,this is having a significant effect

on viability of many high streetstores. Around 20 per cent ofretail spending now takes placeonline, amounting to around£60bn in 2011.

Many retailers have already takenthe plunge and invested heavilyinto online retail, with ecommercewebsites and supporting service tomatch.

As consumers we expect choiceand availability – we do not like to

wait - not even for the shops tobe open.

Analysis of our own ecommerceretail client base shows that thebusiest times for their customersto be on their websites, andbuying, is in the evening fromaround 8- 10pm.

A time of the day when the vastmajority of retail stores are closedfor business.

The growth of mobile internetdevices such as smartphones andtablet computers means thatconsumers are spending moretime online, some of that spentresearching their retail purchases.

If you have an ecommercewebsite then you can be part ofthat research and a share of thesales.

A good quality ecommercewebsite is the first step toprotecting your business for futureand providing a sales channel withproven ongoing growth.

This is why the next store youopen should be online.

‘Get online’ says expertRETAILERS have been warned thatnew research shows while Facebookfalls short in e-commerce, it isimportant in securing customerloyalty.

A new study by Forrester Researchreveals that, despite its popularity,Facebook will never become a majorplayer in e-commerce becauseusers see it as a networking siteand don’t specifically log on to it toshop.

Kevin Flood, co-founder and CEO ofShopow, an online retail shoppingsearch engine, said: “We fullyrecognise the value of socialnetworking functions in relation toshopping; social activity aroundshopping needs a context, a timeand a place. But because ofFacebook’s congested news feeds,relevant activity disappears quickly.”

Many small businesses and retailershave opened up Facebook pages ina bid to attract online users to ‘like’them. And it is acknowledged that,while Facebook users may not cometo the page to shop, it is importantto build a relationship with them.

Facebookimportant forloyalty claim

Online selling feature sponsored by Liquid Shop by Sitemakers - www.sitemakers.co.uk

Sitemakers Ltd managing directorNick Pratt.

22 2/12/11 09:27 Page 1

Business + Technology December 2011/ January 2012 23

NEW research into buyingtrends have shown that whileshops are still the stronghold,more and more shoppers arebuying online and throughtheir phones.

Retail Assist has done asurvey of current shoppinghabits in the UK and foundthat lots of options are nowavailable to people.

Alex Levins, marketingmanager, said: “Our researchsupports the theory thatcustomers are choosing to buyin different ways. While thereare now a growing number ofroutes to market, thepreferred channels are storesand the internet. Stores stilltake the lead at 64.9 percent, with 95.3 per cent ofresearch done prior topurchase predominantly beinginternet-based.”

The number of Smartphoneowners was high (77 percent), with half of them on aniPhone. Although mostowners were not currentlyusing their phone forpurchasing, some respondentshad done so. A significantnumber of people indicatedthey made purchases fromstores less frequently nowthan they did a year ago.

Alex added: “The expectationof which channels customerssee themselves using in thefuture is already changing. Itwill be interesting to seewhich of these areas continueto grow, which decline, and ifand when we will see newadditions to the multichannelmix.”

Increasein onlinebuyingBy Nicola Hyde

A NEW study has ranked the top200 fashion brands based on howthey use social media websites todrive business.

Analyst firm 8thBridge looked at useon Facebook, Twitter, YouTube, Flickrand Tumblr to decide which of thebrands use it most successfully.

The report, named SocialCommerce IQ: Fashion, examineswhich strategies are the mostcritical to be successful with socialcommerce and discusses thefindings from a survey of 1,448Facebook users to understand howthey engage with fashion brands.

The highest scoring brand wasfootwear business ShoeDazzle withFergie Footwear, Vans, and RobertoCavalli all making it into the top 15.

The study showed that 53 per centof people have liked a fashion pageon Facebook to stay informed aboutnew offers; seven per cent willshare purchases while 13 per centshare deals.

48 per cent of consumers would bemotivated to make a purchase onFacebook if there was an attractive deal.

Other findings showed that

Converse had the highest fan countat 20,184,853; DC Shoes had thehighest number of YouTubesubscribers at 143,070 and LouisVuitton had the highest averagenumber of Facebook users talkingabout this at 259,090.

Wade Garten, CEO of 8thBridge,said: “Fashion brands are uniquelypositioned to leverage social mediaand social commerce because ofthe way consumers expressthemselves through fashion.”

Fashion brands rankedon social media skills

Boutique signs up footwear talentsAN online boutique which aims topromote the talents of Britishdesigners has already signed uptwo of the UK’s brightestfootwear talents.

IndependentBoutique.comlaunched this Summer topromote home-grown designersand has already signed up Hetty

Rose and Esska.

Hetty Rose’s collection is basedon a theory of re-using and re-working vintage materials in a creative and sustainable way.

London based label Esskadesigns footwear uses cleanlines, dominant shapes,

organic silhouettes and boldcolours.

The accessories section seesemerging and establishedcombine, with the likes of Britishluxury leather goods brandPenelope and Parker and hot newlabel Carmen Woods.

Online selling feature sponsored by Liquid Shop by Sitemakers - www.sitemakers.co.uk

23 2/12/11 09:28 Page 1

24 December 2011/January 2012 Business + Technology

By Ian Tomlinson,executive chairman, Cybertill

ECOMMERCE is often seen as thesaviour of retail, unlimitedcustomers, huge growth potential.But this is not always the case, ascostly investments into ecommercecan turn sour.

So is ecommerce a good fit for independent footwear retailers?

The obvious response to this is ofcourse it is for the same reasonsstated in the opening line.

But there can be a fine line forindependent footwear retailers.

Stock lines that run out can still beviewed online, is the website easyto navigate, will it rank well insearch engines, there are a plethoraof factors that can affect a websitesperformance.

But the main issue faced byindependent footwear retailers whentrading online is their actual stock.

They cannot normally afford to ringfence large amounts of valuablestock for web sales but at the sametime the vast majority of separateweb sites don’t communicate in realtime to the retailers EPoS stockcontrol system.

Meaning that web stock levels areeither not available on line, whichreduces customer confidence, orare simply inaccurate, which allowsfor sales to be made against

stock that has already been sold instore.

Modern cloud based EPoSsolutions, such as Cybertill, havethe capability to share stock in realtime with the store (or stores) andprovide a truly integrated solution.

This removes all the above stockissues and allows for a unifiedcustomer file as well, so thecustomer tracking and loyaltysystems are also integratedincreasing sales.

It is even possible for clients toreserve on line and collect at storeagain in real time which increasessales again.

So if investing into an ecommercesolution ensure it communicateswith your EPoS system in real time,so all sales channels operateseamlessly together, so thebusiness systems are trulyintegrated or many hours of stafftime can be wasted and sales canbe affected.

Is ecommerce a good fitfor footwear retailers?

Ian Tomlinson

HIGH STREET retailer New Lookhas started offering otherfootwear brands in addition toits in-house design exclusivelythrough its website.

Last month, the companyannounced that brands like EmuAustralia, Rocket Dog, Shellys,Head over Heels by Dune, Bronxand Mel would all sit alongsideNew Look's own range of shoes.

The new-look footwear sectionwill also feature a daily blog thatoffers expert advice, tips andcelebrity style-steals.

A spokesman said: “The much-anticipated range is set tolaunch this month and has beengaining as much buzz as thepending announcements ofdozens more fashion names tobe added to the New LookBrand's stable.

“The collaborative developmentin footwear comes at anextremely busy and successfulperiod for New Look.”

Retaileradds otherbrands

Online selling feature sponsored by Liquid Shop by Sitemakers - www.sitemakers.co.uk

24 2/12/11 09:28 Page 1

Business + Technology December 2011/January 2012 25

By Laura West

UNFORTUNATELY the damage doneto feet and other areas of the bodyby ill fitting shoes is gradual andthere is no doubt that poorly fittedshoes don’t just damage feet butone’s entire physiology.

It is only when aches, pains,arthritis, rheumatism etc. creep intoour joints that we realise some if itis down to our gait and start toregret that we neglected our feet, orresent our parents for their lack ofcare. Unfortunately there is no legalobligation to know anything aboutfeet or footwear to sell shoes, butthere is a moral obligation.

If you visit a dentist, a hairdresser, atattooist or an acupuncturist youwould expect them to beprofessionally qualified just in casethey damage your health in someway. However, when consumers visitshops selling shoes they expect thesame treatment, but the majoritycannot claim to have a professionalshoe fitter instore.

Many staff merely wield a fittinggauge assuming the information itgives will guide them to the right boxand, therefore, the shoes willautomatically fit and they don’ttherefore the public believe they cando a better job themselves.

Sadly using a gauge is just the firststep in fitting shoes correctly.

Podiatrists, reflexologists and healthexperts are more than aware of thisand because they recognise theappalling lack of knowledge andprofessional service on our HighStreet, there is now a surge ofinterest in selling ‘comfortable’footwear in clinics and healthcentres, taking more trade awayfrom retail outlets.

Everyone needs a unique sellingpoint to encourage sales, so now isthe best time to invest in your staffand your business - not easy whencash flow has become a cashdribble. You may be the owner ofyour business and know your stuff,but if you spend your time in theoffice checking figures, countingstock, or simply wafting in and outto escape, leaving your staff to it,your future is in their hands.

Your staff are the ‘face’ of yourbusiness; if they areunknowledgeable, unhelpful andgenerally poorly trained, then it isunlikely customers will return.

Staff training should not merelyconsist of knowing where the kettle,toilet and till are, it should beongoing and empowering, makingstaff feel capable of answering anyquestion and important in their own

right for the good of the business.

Most shop owners have neither theexpertise nor time to train, but theSociety of Shoe Fitters do, and asthey are ‘not-for-profit’ with 52 yearsof experience of helping the industryand public, they are a greatorganisation to work with.

Because ‘footfall’ is exactly that, theSSF are being pro-active to supportmembers whether they are minimumwage shop staff, highly paidpodiatrists, cash-strapped shopowners, or financially awarefootwear suppliers.

Our first project of the year was toadd a page to our website formembers to freely advertise for staff,fixtures, fittings, jobs, evenbusinesses, proving very worthwhileto all. We also invited reputablemanufacturers and suppliers tobecome Associate Members so thatthey can network with ourmembership.

It only costs £200 a year to be anAssociate Member with lots of freepromotion and opportunities for all,which has had a rewarding knock-onaffect for everyone.

Hot off the press we shall besending members two new freeshow cards to politely discouragethe public from using their fitting

service if they have no intention ofbuying from them and to encouragethe public to use a professionalfitting service.

And now we can offer members onlyour latest investment - a new infantfitting gauge to complete our suiteof fitting gauges.

Naturally those selling Clarks, Start-rite and Hush Puppies all haveaccess to good gauges, but shopsthat don’t still wish to offer anexcellent fitting service and this willhelp them tremendously.

In consultation with professionalgauge makers – Carter DesignGroup, the new gauge is userfriendly in every sense,complimenting the knowledge ourmembers have.

Our courses are being revampedwith a special Deluxe course for newbusinesses (next course startsMarch 1st following MODA) and weare working closely with Datateam toprovide a first class awards dinner atthe Moda show – not to be missed.

We have even doubled ourpromotional/advertising efforts tolead consumers to the finest in theindustry.

� Laura West is the secretary of theSociety of Shoe Fitters.

Now is the best time to invest

25 2/12/11 09:29 Page 1

RETAIL SOLUTIONS

RETAIL SOLUTIONS

FOOTWEAR CONSULTANTS

TRAINING

SalesTony Barry – Sales & Marketing Director

(tb@whpl.net)

Beverley Green – Sales Manager

(bg@whpl.net)

Avertising Contacts

Tel: 01226 734333Fax: 01226 734477

EditorialJudith Halkerston – Group Editor

Nicola Hyde – Editor

Christina Eccles – Reporter

Dominic Musgrave – Reporter

Editorial Contacts

Tel: 01226 734694Email: nl@whpl.net

Design & ProductionStewart Holt – Studio Manager(sth@whpl.net)

Natalie Talbot – Graphic Designer(kw@whpl.net)

Circulation01226 734695 (24 hour hotline)Email: circulation@wharncliffepublishing.co.uk

Contacts

diary ddaatteessExpo RivaRiva del Garda Trade Fair Centre,Lake Garda - Italy14 - 17 January 2012(www.exporivaschuh.it/eng/default.asp)

Bread & ButterAirport Berlin - Tempelhof, Berlin18 - 20 January 2012(www.breadandbutter.com

ChicRicoh Arena, Coventry, 29 - 01 Jan / February 2012(www.chicuk.com)

ISPONew Munich Trade Fair Centre,Germany29 - 01 Jan / February 2012(www.ispo-winter.com)

Pure LondonOlympia Grand Hall, London 12 - 14 February 2012 (www.purelondon.com)

26 Classi 2/12/11 12:37 Page 1

27 Bread and butter 2/12/11 10:17 Page 1

28 Panama Jack 28/11/11 12:14 Page 1