garment inspection

WINTERTemplate“quality inspection

& Defects in apparels”

PRESENTED BY

•ABHISHEK ( )•DILIP SINGH ( )•KUMAR SARVESH ( )•RAJEEV SHARAN ( )

01QUALITY

•Ideal condition of excellence.

•Product quality is based on a product attribute.•User-based quality is fitness for use,

• manufacturing based quality is conformance to requirements,

•value based quality is the degree of excellence at an

acceptable price

ISO 9000:2000 Defines it as “degree to which a set of inherent

characteristics fulfill requirement.”

02

Quality inspection in apparel industries:

“Visual examination or review of raw materials, partially finished

components of garments and completely finished garments in

relation to some standards, specifications, or requirements, as

well as measuring garments to check if they meet the required

measurements.”

03

Quality inspection in apparel industries:

•done to control quality of garments.

•Checking of fabric,

•sewing thread,

•button,

•stitch,

• zipper,

•garments size etc

according to required standard or specification is

known as inspection.

•Quality inspection is important for every section of apparel

industries.

04

Steps in apparel industries to control quality

1. Raw Material Inspection;

2. In Process Inspection;

3. Final Inspection;

05

Raw Material Inspection:

•Fabric Inspection

•Sewing Thread Inspection

•Trims & Accessories check

06

• done through Fabric Inspection machine.

• very important for every industries .

• In fabric inspection their checks several things i.e. in fabric are

there any defect available or not. In fabric, fabric defects viz.

off shade or shade variation, hole in fabric, barre effect etc.

can be visual after entering into the store room. For those

defects it will be problem able for making garments making.

• In fabric inspection, also check fabric strength, color, quantity

To check fabric there are different system i.e. 4 point system,

10 point system etc.

Fabric Inspection

07Fabric Inspection Machine

Overall view of Pernick’s Tilt -A- View Machine


Operational view of Pernick’s Tilt -A- View Machine


Overall view of Pernick’s True- Matic Inspection Machine

10

Sewing Thread Inspection

During stitching fabric frequently brakeage of sewing thread

is one of the great problems for garments manufacturing. So

that it is necessary to check

•thread construction,

•sewability,

•color,

•imperfection,

• finish, package

•density,

•winding,

•yardage of sewing thread.

11

Sewing Thread Inspection

•In thread construction

•thread number,

•thread ply,

•thread tenacity,

•thread elongation,

•number of twist

is necessary to check.

12

Trims & Accessories check

•Button,

•Zippers

• interlining,

• label &

•tags

also need to check so that quality can be maintain according

to required quality.

•For button,

•button strength,

• button color,

• quantity etc

are checked.

13

• Inspecting different parts of garments before sewing are

called in process inspection.

• It starts from marker making, than fabric spreading, fabric

cutting, fabric sewing, pressing or finishing checking is done

in process.– marker making

– fabric spreading

– fabric cutting

– sorting/ bundling

– fabric sewing

– seam defects

– assembly defects

– pressing/ finishing defects

In Process Inspection

14

Factors which must be checked

• It is necessary to check all the parts of garments pattern are in

marker.

• In marker labelling or coding of pattern should be checked

• Pattern direction should be checked.

• The entire pattern are sated correctly.

• Pattern grain line is very important thing which must be

considered during marker making.

• During marker making every pattern pieces dimension should be

accurate.

• During marker making fabric length and width should be

considered.

• Marker width

• Notches & drill marks

• Knife clearance

• Checks and stripes (mittering)

Marking inspection

Pattern Grading Defects

1. Grade Not Conforming to Specification measurements

Finished product not measuring to specified dimension and

component parts not fitting in relationship to notches, openings and

seams such as armholes sleeve heads neck bands, neck openings

and side seams inseams, waist measurements and etc.

2. Distorted Grading:

Unbalanced patterns which would cause twisted seams, puckering,

pleating and a general uneconomical yardage waste.

Marking defects1.Shaded Parts:- All component pans not included in same section.

2. Pieces not Symmetrical:-Will not sew together without puckering or

pleating.

3. Not Marked by Directional Lines:-Bias will not lit together, causing

twisting, puckering. pleating and a general mismatching of component

parts.

4. Skimpy marking:-Marker did not use outside perimeter of pattern.

Pattern moved after partially marked to fit into space.

5. Notches and Punch Marks:-Left out., not clearly marked or misplaced.

6. Marker Too Wide:-Parts will not catch in lay, causing skimpy garments or

requiring results.

7 Marker Too Narrow:-Results In wasted material.

8. Mismatched Plaids-Marker did not block component parts to match.

9. Misdirected Napping:-Patterns not marked in same direction and napped

fabrics.

17

Factors which must be checked

• Fabric Nature

• Ply alignment

• Ply tension/slackness

• Bowing

• Splicing

• Grain-line

• Shade variation

• Selvedge alignment & tightness

• Fabric width

• Checks

• Static electricity

Spreading inspection

Spreading Defects

1. Uneven Spreading:- Front edge of lay is not even, resulting in front or back

edge of marker not catching all ply.

2·. Narrow Material:- Bolts or rolls of material too narrow to cover marker

width.

3. Missed Sectional Breaks:- Sectional marker breaks too long or too short.

Parts in lay will be short or material wasted.

4. Improper Tension:- Cloth spread too tight or too loose, causing parts not to

fit in sewing or distorting dimensions of garments.

5. Mismatching Plaids:- Material spread too loose or too tight causing plaid

lines to run diagonally or bow.

6. Misdirected Napping:- Air pockets not removed. Napped material reversed

in spreading.

7. Improper Matching of Face of Material:-Not spread face down, face up or

face to face as required.

19

Factors/defects which must be checked

• Frayed edge

• Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges

• Ply to ply fusion

• Single edge fusion

• Pattern precision

• Notches & drillers

• Cutting Equipment precision

Cutting inspection

Cutting Defects

1.Marker or Perforator:- Not stapled or stencilled on lay to catch both edges

causing parts to miss in cutting. Too tight or too loose, distorting dimensions of

garment. Perforated stencil ,not powdered or inked, sufficiently to show distinct

lines, notches and punch marks.

2. Misplaced Piece Rate Tickets or Bundle Members:-Attached to, or marked on,

wrong bundles, causing mixed sizes or land shades.

3. Drill Marks:- Drill marks misplaced, not perpendicular, omitted or wrong side drill

used.

4. Opening Slits:- Cut under above to the side or at incorrect angle. Not cut

through entire bundle or omitted.

5. Improper Cutting:- Not following marker lines, resulting in distorted parts. Letting

knife lean causing top and bottom ply to be of different sizes.

6. Notches:- Misplaced, too deep, too shallow or omitted.

7. Oil Spots:- Equipment improperly oiled or cleaned.

8. Improper Knife Sharpening:-Causing ragged, frayed or fused edges on

bundles.

9. Knife or Scissor Cut:-Piece damaged by over run in cutting previous piece.

21

• It is necessary to check numbering, sorting, and bundling is

done accurately.

Sorting/ Bundling inspection

Defects.

1. Not Stacked in Numerical Order: Bundle numbers not in

order on rack skid or box.

2. Matching Linings: Wrong size or wrong material.

22

• Most large & important section.

• Necessary to check all the machine operators work.

• Some common faults and problems must be considered

– Sewing defects

– Seaming defects

– Assembly defects

– Pressing or Finishing defects

Sewing inspection

23

Stitching Defects

• Needle damage

• Skipped stitch

• Thread breaks

• Seam pucker

• Wrong stitch density

• Uneven stitch

• Staggered stitch

• Improperly formed stitch

Sewing inspection

24Sewing inspectionStitching Defect Cause

Machine do not run Not plugged in or turned on

Outlet switch off.

Circuit breakdown.

Machine do not stitch properly Machine dirty.

Machine incorrectly threaded

Needle needs replacement.

Machine does not feed

properly

Insufficient or too much

pressure on pressure foot

Stitch length too short.

25Sewing inspection

Stitching Defect Cause

Skip stitching Machine incorrectly threaded.

Machine dirty

Needle damage/needle set or

threaded incorrectly.

Needle makes hole too large or

too short

Needle too much fine for thread

Thread tension too tight/ thread

stretches when heated.

Machine timing needs adjustment

Fabric not held properly.


Skip stitching (overedge

machines)

Loopers are incorrectly set.

Needle to looper relation incorrect.

Wrong type thread.

Skip stitching (blindstitch

machines)

Stitch-depth too shallow.

Wavy seams Stitch length too short.

Pressure too heavy or light

Wavy seams (overedge machine) Differential feed needs increasing

28Sewing inspection


puckering Light weight fabric, wash & wear, tightly woven.

Seam on straight grain.

Fabric not held properly.

Thread tension too tight.

Needle needs replacing.

Thread wrong size for needle/ threads are

different on bobbin & needle.

Too heavy pressure on foot.

Wrong stitch length.

Wrong seam class choice for material.

Puckering (overedge

machines)

Differential feed needs to be reduced.

29Sewing inspection


Plies feed unevenly Pressure on foot incorrect.

Plies lock or stitch together.

Pressure foot sticks to material.

Garment sections are of different length.

Garment sections are cut on different grains.

Feed dog at incorrect height or badly worn.

Inappropriate pressure-foot.

Inappropriate needle plate.

Operator not feeding upper layer properly.

Wrong machine- use a needle-feed machine if

available.

30Sewing inspection

Stitching

Defect

Cause

Unbalanced

tension

Different thread on needle & bobbin.

Thread slipped out of tension disc.

Thread not feeding off cone or spool properly

Machine dirty.


Needle needs replacement/ set incorrectly

Poor quality of thread (too dry, coarse, fine etc).

Thread catches on rough surfaces of thread guide, throat

plate or thread spindle.

Bent, rusted, or incorrect bobbin/ improperly or unevenly

wound bobbin/ bobbin has several layers of

thread/bobbin thread out/ bobbin case screw has worked

out.


Unbalanced tension

(overedge machine)

Looper tension needs adjustment

Uneven stitches Thread does not feed smoothly/ thread

has wrong twist/ thread incorrectly

threaded between tension discs.

Pressure too light.

Burns or rough spots along the path of

thread.

Operator not feeding properly

32Sewing inspection


Cracked seam Machine dirty.

Lint between the tension discs, guides or

eyelets

Bobbin or looper thread tension too tight.

Needle too small or wrong point.

Inappropriate stitch length for material.

Too tight tension.

Thread not moving smoothly through guides or

eyelets. Thread too large or machine has rough

spots or burns.

Cracked seam

(overedge

machine)

Looper thread tension too tight.

33Sewing inspection


Thread breakage Poor quality thread/ wrong size of thread.

Tension too tight.

Needle set improperly.

Machine dirty.


Needle needs replacement.

Pressure bar not down.

Take-up lever not in raised position at the beginning of

stitch.

Burns on needle eye, throat plate, guides or thread

spindle.

Operator pulling fabric during tension/ did not release

tension before removal of material.


Thread breakage

(overedge machine)

Needle & looper need adjustment

Seam grin Stitch bight too narrow.

Stitch length too short.

Thread not set into tension discs

properly

Tension on needle thread too

loose.

Seam grin (overlock

machine)

Wrong stitch type

Tension needs adjustment.

35Sewing inspectionStitching

Defect

Cause

Machine jam Machine dirty.


Needle set incorrectly or damaged.

Static electricity pulls fabric into needle hole

Pressure bar not down.

Needle plate hole too large.

Threads not held at beginning.

Bobbin inserted incorrectly.

Pressure foot wrong type and not holding

fabric firmly.

36Sewing inspection


Unthreading of

needle

Thread end too short.

Take-up lever not in its highest position.

Thread ends not held at beginning of stitch

Operator did not chainstitch.

Overedge

machine ragged

edges, trimmed

edges are

uneven

Knives blunt.

Knives incorrectly set.

Wrong choice of thread for fabric

Machine noisy Machine dirty

Damaged machine.

Needle dull, bent or set incorrectly


Needle breakage Needle needs replacement/ set incorrectly.

Pressure foot too loose.

Bobbin or bobbin-case incorrectly set.

Operator stitching over pins or zippers.

Operator pulling fabric while stitching or without

raising pressure foot.

Upper tension too tight.

Incorrect size of needle or thread for material.

Fabric too thick.

Needle breakage

(overedge machine)

Needle hitting looper.

38Sewing inspection


Bobbin thread

breakage (lockstitch

machine)

Machine dirty.

Improperly threaded machine.

Bobbin or bobbin-case incorrectly set.

Bobbin tension too tight.

Bobbin too full.

Thread unevenly wound on bobbin

Bobbin screw worked out and catching the

thread.

Spring on bobbin-case worn to a sharp groove.

Burns on throat plate or rotary hook.

Bobbin pigtail caught in bobbin-case

39

Pressing Defect Cause

Iron does not heat. Iron not plugged in or turned on.

Boiler not turned on.

Circuit breaker or outlet off.

Temperature control set too low

Iron spits Iron did not heat completely before use.

Temperature control set too low.

Steam control malfunctioned.

40

Seaming defects:

• Uneven width

• Fault stitch line

• Back stitch must be given properly

• Twisting

• Check or strip matching

• Seam matching

• Wrong stitch face side or back side;

• Thread color shade variation.

Sewing inspection

Restitched Seams / Broken Stitches

Excessive Restitched Seams

MINIMIZING THREAD

BREAKAGE:

1) Use a better quality sewing

thread. This may include going to a

higher performance thread

designed to minimize sewing

interruptions. (See the Thread

Selection Guide and/or

Minimizing Thread Breakage &

Skipped Stitches);

2) Insure proper machine

maintenance and sewing machine

adjustments;

3) Make sure sewing machines are

properly maintained and adjusted

for the fabric and sewing operation.

(See Machine Maintenance

Checklist.);

4) Observe sewing operators for

correct material handling

techniques.

DESCRIPTION: Where a "splice"

occurs on the stitch line. If this occurs

on Topstitching, then the seam does not

appear to be 1st quality merchandise.

Caused by 1) thread breaks or thread

run-out during sewing; or 2) cut or broken

stitches during a subsequent treatment of

the finished product (i.e., stone washing).

•Open Seam - Seam Failure - Stitch

• DESCRIPTION: Where the

threads in the seam have

ruptured leaving a hole in the stitch

line.

Caused by

• 1) Improper stitch for application;

• 2)Inadequate thread strength for

seam;

• 3) Not enough stitches per inch.

MINIMIZING SEAM FAILURES -

STITCH:

1) Use a better quality sewing thread.

This may include going to a higher

performance thread designed to give

greater seam performance. (See the

Thread Selection Guide.);

2) Use the proper size thread for the

application;

3) For knit fabrics, check for "Stitch

Cracking". Stitch Cracking can be

caused by any of the following: not

enough stitches per inch; improper seam

width or needle spacing for application;

improper stitch balance; and improper

thread selection.

Open Seam - Seam Failure - Fabric

• DESCRIPTION:

Where the stitch

line is still intact but

the yarns in the fabric

have ruptured.

MINIMIZING SEAM FAILURES -

FABRIC:

1)Reinforce stress points with

Bartacks. Make sure the bartacks are

the proper length and width for the

application;

2) Check to make sure the patterns

have been designed for proper fit;

3) Make sure the ideal seam

construction is being used;

4) Contact your fabric supplier.

Bartacks Used to Reinforce Fly Seam

Seam Failure - Seam Slippage

• DESCRIPTION: Where the yarns

in the fabric pull out of the seam

from the edge. This often occurs on

fabrics constructed of continuous

filament yarns that are very smooth

and have a slick surface. Also

caused by loosely constructed

fabrics.

MINIMIZING SEAM FAILURES –

SEAM SLIPPAGE:

1) Consider changing the seam

construction to a French seam

construction;

2)Increase the seam width or width

of bite;

3)Optimize the stitches per inch; 4)

Contact your fabric supplier.

Seam Slippage on Rayon Fabric

Needle Cutting on Knits

• DESCRIPTION: Where needle holes

appear along the stitch line that will

eventually turn into a "run". Generally

caused by the needle damaging the

fabric as it is penetrating the seam.

MINIMIZING NEEDLE CUTTING

ON KNITS:

1)Make sure the proper thread

size and needle type and size

are being used for the fabric

2) Make sure the fabric has

been properly stored to prevent

drying out and has been finished

properly;

3) Check with your fabric

manufacturer.

•Excessive Seam Puckering - Wovens

DESCRIPTION: Where the seam does

not lay flat and smooth along the

stitchline.

Caused by one of the following:

1) Feed Puckering - where the plies of

fabric in the seam are not being

aligned properly during sewing;

2) Tension Puckering - where the thread

has been stretched and sewn into the

seam. The thread then causes the

seam to draw back and pucker;

3) Yarn Displacement or structural

jamming - caused by sewing seams

with too large of thread that causes

the yarns in the seam to be displaced,

giving a puckered appearance.

MINIMIZING EXCESSIVE SEAM PUCKERING:

1)Use the correct thread type and size for the fabric. In many cases, a

smaller, higher tenacity thread is required to minimize seam

puckering but maintain seam strength

2) Sew with minimum sewing tension to get a balanced stitch;

3) Make sure machines are set up properly for the fabric being sewn;

4) Check for proper operator handling techniques.

•Puckered Seams -

Knits & Stretch

Woven

SOLUTIONS:

1) If sewing machines are equipped with

differential feed, set them properly for the

fabric;

2) Use minimum presser foot pressure during

sewing; and

3) Observe operator for correct handling

techniques. Too much stretching of the fabric

by the sewing operator will cause this

problem.

DESCRIPTION: Where

the seam does not lay

flat after stitching.

•Excessive Seam Grin

DESCRIPTION: Where the

stitch balance is not properly

adjusted (stitch too loose) and

you can see the seam opening

up. To check for Seam Grin,

apply normal seam stress across

the seam and then remove the

stress. If the seam remains

opened, then the seam has too

much "grin through".

SOLUTIONS: To correct, readjust the

sewing machine thread tensions so that

the proper stitch balance is achieved.

Too much tension will cause other

problems including seam failures ("Stitch

Cracking"), excessive thread breakage,

and skipped stitches.

•Improper Stitch Balance - 301 Lockstitch

DESCRIPTION: Where loops

are seen either on the

bottomside or topside of the

seam. This is particularly

evident with different colored

needle and bobbin threads.

Also, where the stitch is too

loose.

SOLUTIONS:

1) Use a quality thread with

Consistent frictional

characteristics;

2) Properly balance the stitch so

that the needle and bobbin

threads meet in the middle of

the seam. Always start by

checking the bobbin thread

tension to make sure it is set

correctly, so that the minimum

thread tension is required to get

a balanced stitch.

•Improper Stitch Balance - 401 Chainstitch

DESCRIPTION: Where

the loops on the

bottomside of the seam are

inconsistent and do not

appear uniform.

SOLUTIONS:

1) Use a quality thread with

consistent frictional characteristics;

2) Properly balance the stitch so that

when the looper thread is

unraveled, the needle loop lays

over half way to the next needle

loop on the underside of the seam

•Improper Stitch

Balance - 504

Overedge Stitch

DESCRIPTION: Where the

needle loop is not pulled up

to the underside of the seam

and the"purl" is not on the

edge of the seam.

SOLUTIONS:

1) Use a quality thread with consistent

frictional characteristics

2) Properly balance the stitch so that when the

looper thread is unraveled, the needle loop

lays over half way to the next needle loop on

the underside of the seam.

•Ragged/Inconsistent Edge - Overedge Or

Safety stitch Seams

DESCRIPTION: Where the edge

of the seam is either extremely

"ragged" or "rolls" inside the stitch.

SOLUTIONS:

1) Make sure the sewing machine

knives are sharpened and changed

often;

2) The knives should be adjusted

properly in relationship to the "stitch

tongue" on the needle plate to obtain

the proper seam width or width bite.

In the photo, the trimming knives

have been set wider than the "stitch

tongue" on the needle plate causing

the "ropy" appearance.

56

Assembly defects:

• Finished component of not accurate size.

• Garments not accurate in size.

• If any design skip to join.

• Component is not joining in right place.

• If lining is tight or loose.

• If parts direction is wrong.

Sewing inspection

57

Pressing or Finishing:

• Fabric burn or burn spot attach with body.

• Any types of water spot.

• Color shading occurs because of hot ironing.

• Button is insecure or broken.

• Garments are folding accurately.

• Pocket is pressed smoothly and except fold.

• Garments shape is accurate.

“Stains, Wrinkles, Correct labels, Any thing that detracts from

overall appearance”

Sewing inspection

58

Folding defects

• garment is not folded to specification

• garment not folded with proper material like cardboard,

tissues or other material.

• incorrect pins or folds

• garment not buttoned

• label not showing

Sewing inspection

59

• In final inspection generally inspect fully complete garments.

Before final inspection there has no chance to check complete

garments. It is important from the buyer to finally check. In

final inspection normally garments size, form fitting, fabric

faults are check.

Final Inspection

60

• A zone- the defects of the garment which is visible when it

is packed.

• B zone- the defects of the garment which is visible when

garment is opened flat.

• C zone- the defects which can be seen when the garment is

turned.

– A defect in “A” zone is considered more serious than a

defect in “B” zone

– A defect in “B” zone is considered more serious than a

defect in “C” zone

and will be categorised accordingly.

DEFECT ZONES

Critical defects list

critical defects.docx

61Garment No-01 (Shirt)

62DEFECT ZONES

63Shirt inspection check list

No Location Inspect for

01 Collar Both points are same or not, strip or check is match accurately,

stitch, collar flat or not.

02 Size Size label is in correct place, and every parts size is correct or not.

03 Button & button

hole

Placed in right place or not, evenness of gap between one button to

other, stitch is done correctly, are there any broken button or not.

04 Pocket Pocket upper edge horizontal or not, pocket position, size, stitch,

stripe or check is match, flat or not.

05 Hem Stitch, are there any puckering occur or not, edge free from stitch.

06 Yoke & shoulder Stitch, puckering problem, skipped stitch.

07 Side seam Pattern matching, stitch, free from raw edge.

08 Cuffs Strips or check matching, top stitch, flat or not.

09 Finished

appearance

Threads edge comes out or not, are there any oil spot or not, fabric

fault, color matching, strip matching.

64Causes & Remedies

Location Defects Causes Remedies

Collar Both points are not aligned. Pattern mistake Proper pattern marking

strip or check is not match

accurately/stitch

Pattern mistake Proper mitering

collar flat or not Improper Stitch/seam Proper folding &

stitching

Size Incorrect size parts Improper ticketing &

bundling

Proper ticketing &

bundling

Button &

button hole

Not placed in right place Improper marking Proper marking

unevenness of gap between

one button to other

Improper measuring &

marking

Proper marking

stitch is done correctly/ extra

thread

Improper stitching/

machine settings

Proper setting of

machines

broken button Improper inspection Replace

Sleeve Unequal size Improper

measurement/stitching

Proper measurement,

marking, & stitch.

Location Defects Causes Remedies

Pocket Improper positioning & stitch Improper marking/stitch Proper marking &

stitch

Hem puckering, raw edge. Improper machine

settings/ fabric

type/stitch

Proper settings, fabric

type & stitch

Yoke &

shoulder

Stitch, puckering problem,

skipped stitch.

Machine setting/

workmanship

Proper machine

setting &

workmanship

Side seam Improper pattern matching,

stitch, raw edge

Improper pattern/stitch Proper marking &

stitch (by aligning

edges)

Cuffs Strips or check not matching Improper marking. Proper marking

Improper top stitch, not flat Slippage of back side or

improper stitch

Folders may be used

Finished

appearance

Extra threads edge Floatation on seam Cut it.

strip matching Improper

spreading/marking

Spread & mark

properly

fabric fault Improper fabric

Inspection etc.

Splicing or other fault

recovery processes

Shade variation Improper spreading Shade sorting during

spreading

66A zone Defects

1.Collar

Inspection of Sample (Shirt)

Defects Causes Remedies

uneven (edges are

not on a straight

horizontal line)

Improper marking Marking should be accurate

with proper techniques of

stitching Operator’s fault

Cutting faults Appropriate equipments

Unequal

dimensions

Improper marking Proper marking with skilled

stitching.

Overstretched fabric Accurate tension over fabric

67A zone Defects

2. Front placket



baggy (fullness) at

collar.

Improper marking Marking should be accurate(in

terms of measurement & relative

positioning of button &

buttonholes) with proper

techniques of stitching

Operator’s fault

Button holes are not

according to button

placement

68A zone Defects

3. Labels



Not placed at (with

the reference of

centre back)

Improper marking Marking should be accurate(in

terms of measurement & relative

positioning of labels & tags) with

proper techniques of stitching

Operator’s fault

65A zone Defects

4. Pocket



Mitering defects Improper marking Marking should be accurate

with proper techniques of

stitching.Operator’s fault

Cutting faults Appropriate equipments

Extra thread Improper inspection Proper inspection & extra

thread should be trimmed.

Floated on seam Appropriate equipments

should be used to avoid this.

70A zone Defects

5. Button holes



Extra thread Improper inspection Inspection should be proper.

Floated on the seam Appropriate equipments

should be used to avoid this.

Improper stitch Inaccurate setting of

machine

Machine setting should be

accurate.

Wrong type of thread Thread should be inspected

in terms of tenacity, count,

ply, twist etc.

71B zone Defects


72B zone Defects

1. Armhole



Misaligned

seam

Improper pattern

making & marking

Pattern should be accurately developed

with accurate marking.

Operators fault Should be aligned with skilled stitching.

Improper stitch

(not uniformly

distant with

armhole seam)

Operators fault Should be done with proper

workmanship.

73B zone Defects

2. Yoke



Mitering defect Improper marking Marking should be accurate.

74B zone Defects

3. Side seam



Mitering defect Improper marking Marking should be accurate.

75C zone Defects

1. Armhole seam



Raw edge Operator’s fault. Stitching should be proper.

Folders/templates may be used.

Roping

(puckering)

Pattern-making &

marking defect

Patterns should be accurately

developed with proper marking.

Stitching defect

(operator’s fault-applying

too much tension)

Should be done with proper skill &

workman ship

Machine fault Properly check the settings of

machine & its components.

76C zone Defects

2. Side seam slit






3. Sleeve placket

77C zone Defects

4. Cuff seam



Top stitch not

covering the

back fabric of

cuff seam

Operator’s fault. Stitching should be proper.

Slippage of fabric

during top stitch.

Folders/templates may be used.

78

shade variation no

Pieces not symmetrical no

Misdirected napping -

Improper tension while

spreading

no

Uneven spreading no

Misplacement of marker

while cutting

yes

Improper cutting no

Improper knife sharpening -

Improper drill and notch

marks

-

Incorrect size cutting no

Analysis of garment 1 as per cutting room defects:

Analysis of garment 1 as per sewing room defects:

Needle damage no

Skipped stitch yes

Thread break yes

Seam pucker yes

Wrong stitch density no

Uneven stitch no

Oil spots or stains no

Loose thread yes

Open seam yes

Run off yes

Improper thread tension yes

Broken stitch yes

Notch exposed no

Omission of any part of garment yes

Twisted seam yes

Pieces not aligned yes

Reverse pieces no

Excessive fullness no

Uneven edge yes

Ragged edge yes

Hole no

Misplaced components yes

Misaligned seam yes

Analysis of garment 1 as per finishing room defects:

Thread not trimmed yes

Seam tear yes

Inadequate pressing no

Garment not properly dried -

Pressing producing shine in fabric no

Labels not showing no

Cuts or nicks no

Location Inspect for Remedies

Collar Both points are same or not, accurately

stitch, collar flat or not.

Proper marking, stitching

Size Size label is in correct place, and every

parts size is correct or not

Proper labeling & bundling

Button &

button hole

Placed in right place or not, evenness of

gap between one button to other, stitch is

done correctly, are there any broken button

or not

Proper marking(measurement) & skilled

stitching

Pocket Pocket upper edge horizontal or not, pocket

position, size, stitch, stripe or check is

match, flat or not.

Proper marking for placement & skilled stitch

Hem Stitch, are there any puckering occur or not,

edge free from stitch.

Proper tension & skill during stitch

shoulder Stitch, puckering problem, skipped stitch

(proper over-lock).

Proper skill stitching& use of mobilon tape

Side seam Pattern matching, stitch, free from raw edge Avoid excess tension(force) with skilled

workmanship.

Sleeve hem Proper over-lock. Proper machine settings & skilled stitching

Finished

appearance

Threads edge comes out or not, are there

any oil spot or not, fabric fault, color

matching, strip matching.

Can be avoided during inspection.

Garment No -02 (Knitted T-Shirt)

83A zone Defects

1. Front placket

Garment no-02 (Knitted T-Shirt)

Defects Cause Remedies

gathering/

looseness at

placket

Fabric stretched during

stitching (too much

pressure at foot)

Set the machine

accurately according

the knitted fabric &

stitch properly

84A zone Defects



Improper top

stitch


stitching (too much pressure

at foot)

Set the machine

accurately according the

knitted fabric & stitch

properly

due to lack of proper stitching

(operator’s fault)

Align the seam properly

& stitch with skilled

workmanship

2. Collar

85B zone Defects

1. Armhole



Not aligned

properly


stitching (too much pressure

at foot)

Set the machine

accurately according the

knitted fabric & stitch

properly

due to lack of proper

marking/ proper stitching

by proper marking &

aligning the seam

accurately before stitch

86C zone Defects

1.Front placket



Raw edges Operator’s fault. Properly inspect the

garment & Finish the edges

with overlock machines Improper inspection

87C zone Defects

2. Hem



Raw edges Operator’s fault. Properly inspect the



88C zone Defects

3. Collar edges



Raw edges (edges

not finished properly)

Operator’s fault. Properly inspect the



89

shade variation no

Pieces not symmetrical no

Misdirected napping no

Improper tension while

spreading

slight

Uneven spreading no

Misplacement of marker

while cutting

no

Improper knife sharpening no

Improper drill and notch

marks

no

Incorrect size cutting no

Analysis of garment 2 as per cutting room defects:

Analysis of garment 2 as per sewing room defects:

Needle damage no

Skipped stitch no

Thread break no

Seam pucker yes

Wrong stitch density no

Uneven stitch no

Oil spots or stains no

Loose thread no

Open seam no

Run off no

Improper thread tension no

Broken stitch no

Notch exposed no

Omission of any part of garment Yes (half moon

patch)

Twisted seam no

Pieces not aligned yes

Reverse pieces no

Excessive fullness no

Uneven edge yes

Ragged edge yes

Hole no

Misplaced components no

Misaligned seam yes

Analysis of garment 2 as per finishing room defects:

Thread not trimmed yes

Seam tear no

Inadequate pressing -

Garment not properly dried -

Pressing producing shine in fabric -

Incorrect pins or folds in garment -

Labels not showing no

Cuts or nicks no

garment inspection

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