aeo and aerie garment inspection manual

AEO and Aerie Garment Inspection Manual of 23

AEO and aerie

Garment Inspection Manual Prepared by

Intertek

Date: April 2020 Revision: 14


Table of Content – Garment Inspection Quality Assurance Inspection ............................................................................................................................ 2 Introduction of Intertek ...................................................................................................................................... 2 Inspection Services Offered:.............................................................................................................................. 2 Final Random Pre-Shipment Inspection (FRI): ................................................................................................. 2 How to Initiate the Inspection Service with Intertek ......................................................................................... 3 Final Random Inspection (FRI) ......................................................................................................................... 3 Random Sampling Method ................................................................................................................................ 6 Communication & Procedure ............................................................................................................................ 6 Cost of Resource Audit & Inspection Services ................................................................................................. 7

Quality Assurance Inspection Our goal is to provide our customer a high quality product that meets or exceeds their quality expectation. American Eagles Outfitters maintains quality assurance staff to assist in the selection and development of manufacturers who manufacture products according to American Eagles Outfitters standards and who meet American Eagles Outfitters sourcing policy, principles and guidelines. This field function is also responsible for assisting in starting up new production, monitoring production as it is being made, and communicating with the Buyers and production representatives their findings.

American Eagles Outfitters has developed the following general quality assurance and inspection procedures in accordance with the corporation’s commitment to quality and safety. All quality assurance representatives of agents and suppliers are required to follow these procedures for all American Eagles Outfitters purchase orders.

Introduction of Intertek INTERTEK is a global market leader in testing and inspection services for textiles, footwear, and accessories other consumer products. Products undergo test and inspection programs against safety, regulatory, quality and performance standards, and increasingly, certified to customers’ own operating standards.

INTERTEK has gained an uncompromising reputation for accuracy, integrity and confidentiality and, as a result, INTERTEK now serves as a long-term partner with American Eagle Outfitters and a wide range of manufacturers, and importers around the world.

As products are increasingly sourced from developing countries, INTERTEK’S global network allows test services to be provided near manufacturing sites or customers’ buying offices. In addition, INTERTEK’s rapid response times gives customers the ability to move quickly enough to meet changing regulations and industry standards.

The aim of our services is to reduce and eliminate as many of AEO’s importing risks in accepting defective merchandise. Through our on-site inspection, Intertek will monitor the correct fulfillment of AEO Purchase Orders and assure that the merchandise evaluated meets all specific requirements.

Meanwhile, Intertek is offering whole range of inspection services to our worldwide clients. Our services include:

In-line inspection During Production Inspection Final Random Inspection

Inspection Services Offered: Final Random Pre-Shipment Inspection (FRI):

As third party inspection service provider, Intertek will conduct a Final Random Inspection when goods are packed and ready for shipment on behalf of AEO. Intertek will verify that the shipments conform to the description as it appears in the contract. Intertek works according to conventional statistical sampling procedures, such as ANSI/ASQCZ1.4 (MIL-STD-105E) or AEO’s individual product standard requirements.


How to Initiate the Inspection Service with Intertek Final Random Inspection (FRI)

Intertek will make the necessary arrangements with AEO supplier in order to perform services. Intertek requests AE suppliers that it is their job to arrange a proper environment and labor for inspection. Test equipment/facilities should be available to enable Intertek staff to properly evaluate function, performance, and overall compliance with specifications at the time and place of inspection.

Should Intertek inspector(s) arrive at the location and find the inspection conditions unsuitable to carry out a proper physical inspection or, where necessary equipment for testing is not available, then our inspectors may decide to draw samples for further checking and/or testing in Intertek premises if practical.

Intertek inspectors will arrive when goods are at least 80% completed, packed and marked. At this time a random sample of cartons will be selected from the whole consignments are per our standard procedure. To ensure AE suppliers do not abuse the requirement of goods availability %, it is recommended that AE suppliers should be instructed to target 100% of packed goods available for inspection.

i) Inspection CriteriaInspection normally entails visual and manual examination for criteria such as:

Style Quantity Available Color and Hand Feel Aesthetics at bulks against Green Tag Samples Workmanship Insole length and labeling checking (footwear) Garment Measurement and labeling Checking

ii) Extra on-site CheckingDepending on the product nature and function, some of the following extra checking will be performed duringinspection:

Function Check *Unit Weight CheckColor Comparison (by grey scale)

*On-spot checking apply only with adequate set up/machinery provided by factory.

iii) Size measurement check for garment:1. One piece per size will be measured for all given specifications covering all the colors.2. Additional 10% of Garments from Sample size will be measured for Critical Measurements.

iii) Size measurement check for Footwear:Only insole length was measured during inspection, 5 pairs per size covering all colors.

Critical Measurement Points for Top:

Front Neck Drop Neck width / Neck circumference

Sleeve length Garment length (HPS / Center back)

Chest (relaxed/extended) Bottom Opening /Sweep Across shoulders Sleeve Opening (long/ short) Armhole Across Front Across Back CF Zipper Length CF Zipper Length Forearm Empire (Relaxed / Extended) HPS/HP to Empire Seam Height Waist Strap Distance High / Low Hip Strap Length Minimum Neck Stretch Shelf Bra Bottom Opening (Relaxed/Extended) Sleeve Length (fm A/H or CB) Shelf Bra Length (HP/HPS) Muscle


Critical Measurement Points for Bottom:

Length (CF/CB) Back Rise

Waist (relaxed/extended) Thigh High Hip Knee Low Hip Leg Opening Bottom Opening/Sweep (Shell and Lining) Inseam/Outseam Front Rise Zipper/Fly length Critical Measurement Points for Bras:

Top Back (both sides) Bottom Back (both sides) Cup Neckline Cup Armhole Gore Width Gore Height Bottom Hook-up Wire Channel Length Across Cup Length Across Cup Width Critical Measurement Points for Panties/ brief:

Waist Width Side Seam Height Front Panty Width Leg Opening (both sides) Back Panty Width Front Crotch Width Front Rise Back Crotch Width Back Rise Crotch Liner Length Side String Length on Thongs

Note: All panties & brief, Top Back and Bottom Back need to measure both sides to ensure the asymmetrical shape of goods. And the findings need to be recorded on the measurement chart to well identify the difference. Either one or both sides of findings out of the tolerance, it would be treated as one defective point against measurement audit.

3. Out of tolerance measurements will be encircled. 4. The total encircled measurement points will be counted & AQL 2.5 will follow for the same allowance at

selected sample size, adopted of those out of tolerance measurement points in the Measurement Audit.

There will be Two sampling plans on measurement check for FRI. It will be adopted for inspection and measurement check depends on the instruction of AEO.

a) ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 (MIL-STD-105E) Double Sampling Plan Normal Severity Level b) ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 (MIL-STD-105E) Single Sampling Plan Normal, Level-II

Below please find example based on Double Sampling Plan: Shipment Quantity: 15000 Pieces

Sample Size: 315 Pieces Total Sizes: 08 Total Colors: 05 Total Number of Measurement Points: 14 Critical Measurement Points: 06 Number of Pieces measured for all the 14 Measurement Points: 08 Pcs (Covering all 05 colors) Additional 10% pieces measured for Critical Points: 32 pcs Total Points Measured = (08 x 14) + (32 x 06) = 304 Points

Hence AQL 2.5 for a sample size 315 will be used to determine whether Measurements are Conformed or Not Conformed. Allowance for sample size 315 pcs: 11 Out of Tolerance Points >/= 16 ~ Measurements Not Conformed and shipment will be rejected. Out of Tolerance Points </= 11 ~ Measurements Conformed. If out of Tolerance Points fall into 11 to 16 (either is 12, 13, 14 or 15) then inspector needs to conduct

2nd sampling to proceed the same sample size measurement checking. This audit would be for Additional

40 pieces out of 315 pieces in 1st Sampling. The total measurement quantity for this order would now

be 80 pieces and 608 points. Accumulate all the Out of Tolerance Points found in the 1st and 2nd audits.

If the findings equal or less than 26 Out of Tolerance Points, then the size measurement would be


Conformed. If exceed then size measurement would be Not conformed.

Below please find example based on Single Sampling Plan: Shipment Quantity: 5000 Pieces Sample Size: 200 Pieces Total Sizes: 08 Total Colors: 05 Total Number of Measurement Points: 14 Critical Measurement Points: 06 Number of Pieces measured for all the 14 Measurement Points: 08 Pcs (Covering all 05 colors) Additional 10% pieces measured for Critical Points: 20 Pcs Total Points Measured = (08 x 14) + (20 x 06) = 232 Points Hence AQL 2.5 for a sample size 200 will be used to determine whether Measurements are Conformed or Not Conformed. Allowance for sample size 200 pcs: 10 Out of Tolerance Points > 10 ~ Measurements Not Conformed. Out of Tolerance Points </= 10 ~ Measurements Conformed.

iv) Defect Classification Definition Critical Defects A defect that fails to meet mandatory regulations and/or affects the safety of the consumer.

Major Defects A defect, which will likely result in product failure, reduction of product usability, or render the product to be not sellable.

Minor Defects A defect not likely to reduce the usability of the product, but likely to reduce the salability or a discrepancy from the established acceptable limit.

In case where the major and minor defects classification category is ambiguous, the Intertek Testing Services executing office will send the defect inspection sample to American Eagle Outfitters directly for decision. Alternatively, Intertek will take digital photos on defective and have it sent to you by email for your reference.

*(Please find the checking list for Inspections in Appendix – I)

Location of defects (zones) The impact of a fault definition (major or minor) may depend on the location within the garment. The diagram below is a guide that illustrates the obvious and less-obvious zones, which should be used in conjunction with the final inspection checklist to assist in defining the fault.

Zone A – obvious location • Whole front area • Top 2/3rds of back area • Top sleeve area

Zone B – less-obvious location • Under sleeve area • Lower 1/3rd of back area


Random Sampling Method ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 (MIL-STD-105E) is the most widely accepted method of sampling by attributes and is based on the mathematical theory of probability. ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 (MIL- STD-105E) provides specific criteria for acceptance or rejection of a shipment/lot based on the number of defects found, and provides a fair assessment of product quality, which is fair to both the supplier and buyer.

There are two sampling plans for inspection. It will be adopted for inspection depends on the instruction of AEO.

a) ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 (MIL-STD-105E) Double Sampling Plan Normal Severity Level

b) ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 (MIL-STD-105E) Single Sampling Plan Normal, Level-II

In general, Intertek will use AQL 2.5 Double Sampling Plan for major defects. * 3 garments with 1 minor defect on each will treated as 1 Major defective. * 3 shoes with 1 minor defect on each will treated as 1 Major defective.

Communication & Procedure I. Contact and Communication The local relevant Intertek offices will handle inspection arrangement. For HK and China inspections, Intertek Shenzhen will be the only contact point. All communications are conducted in English.

II. Initiating an Inspection To expedite an inspection, Intertek Testing Services requires the following:

1. Copy of Purchase Order showing: • Merchandise Description • Ordered Quantity • Assortment Instruction • Shipping Marks

2. Other Inspection reference including: • Reference Sample(s) (must be tagged with GREEN HANGTAG) • Product Specifications - Final AEO approved Tech. Pack • Instruction Manual • How to Measure guide for specific style AEO Approved hand feel sample/swatch AEO

Approved hand feel sample /swatch • All relevant AEO Approved shade bands (fabric, garment, Special Finish / wash, prints

/graphics, etc.)- to be sealed/stamped by ITS to ensure. Same reference point is used for all related inspections.

• Packaging & Packing Instruction • Supplier & Factory Contact Details

III. Lead time to Arrange an Inspection

Inspection booking should be made at least 10 -14 working days prior to the scheduled date of inspection in general and 4 working days (for Guangdong Province) or 10 working days (outside Guangdong Province). If air traveling is required, at least 10 working days’ notice is needed. To initiate an inspection, Intertek requires Purchase Order, reference sample, specification, packing details, and factory information as inspection materials. Appropriate equipment/facilities and worker in assisting packing and unpacking of items are needed.

IV. Product Availability Intertek inspectors will precede an inspection when the consignment is 100% produced with at least 80% packed and marked. At this time a random sample of cartons will be selected from the whole consignments as per our standard procedure. To ensure your suppliers do not abuse the requirement of goods availability %, it is recommended that your suppliers should be instructed to target 100% of packed goods available for inspection.

V. Result and Reporting Inspection reports shall be emailed to American Eagle Outfitters and copy to the vendor on the next working day after the inspection. Unless requested, no hard copy inspection report will be submitted in order to minimize paper consumption and save the planet.


VI. Certification After inspection report is emailed to you, you can make a shipment decision according to our findings. You can make shipment decision based on our inspection report. Simply by send us a written instruction; Intertek can issue an Inspection Certificate to your supplier. Once we receive supplier’s Inspection Certificate Requisition Form, Intertek will issue Inspection Certification in 2 working days. Supplier should arrange courier or collect it personally. This service is a value-added service. No additional cost will be charged.

Cost of Resource Audit & Inspection Services Minimum Charge: Man-day rate Minimum man-day rate for Asia Pacific, is US$ 200.00 For Latin America and Mexico is US $ 310.00 For Brazil and Europe is US $ 430.00 For US, Canada US $ 550.00

Overtime Charge: Although unusual, Intertek may be asked to work overtime under special situations. Our charge for overtime outside normal working hours will be US$35.00 per man hour. Arrangement to do inspections on Sunday and public holidays can be made on request.

Other Expenses: Travel costs, faxes, sample mailing and other necessary miscellaneous expenses will be charged.

Abortive Inspection: In the event of an abortive inspection visit, the charge will be minimum manday fee plus travel.

Re-Inspection: The AEO vendors or his designated contracting entity remains responsible to Intertek for the payment of re-inspection costs.

Appendix I -- (Defect Checklist)

PART I: General defect in manufacture A) Accessories (Apparel / Footwear) B) Workmanship and appearance (Apparel / Footwear) C) Packaging and presentation (Apparel / Footwear) D) Fabric (Apparel) E) Material (Footwear)

PART II: Common defect in specific items A) Shirt / blouse B) Jacket C) Jean D) Knitted T-shirt E) Sweater F) Leather garment G) PVC garment H) Bra I) Swimwear J) Brief / Panty K) Silk Garment L) Hat M) Neck tie N) Sock O) Slipper P) Sports Shoe Q) Pump R) Boot S) Canvas Shoe


Defect Classification Criteria: 1. Critical Defect: A unit of product is classified as “Critical Defect” if it would result in hazardous or unsafe conditions for individuals using, maintaining or depending upon the product.

2. Major Defect: A unit of product is classified as “Major Defect” if it is likely to result in failure, or to reduce materially the usability of the unit for its intended purpose.

3. Minor Defect: A unit of product is classified as “Minor Defect” if it is not likely to reduce materially the usability of the unit of product for its intended purpose. (That means it is having little bearing on the effective use of the product).

Part I General defect in apparel manufacture Details of Critical Defective:

Critical Major Minor - Use of monofilament sewing thread X - -

- No warning clause on polybag if require X - - - Any sharp point/sharp edge on accessories X - - - Loose stud/button/rivet, zipper head or trim on babywear X - - - Infestation of live insect X - - - Not bilingual (French and English) fiber content for - Canada market

X - -

- Polybag thickness less than 0.038 mm X - - - Needle/Sharped object detected X - - - Missing/Insecure/Damaged/incorrect/incomplete

fiber content, country of origin or care label X - -

- Protruding Nail X - - - Tack in Shoe X - - - Sharp hoop / eyelet X - -


A) Fabric and Materials

Critical Major Minor - Fabric flaw / run more than 1/2" at obvious part of

a garment (depends on size)- X X

- Fabric flaw / run more than 1" at non-obvious part of a garment(depends on size)

- X X

- Wrong or slanted grain line - X - - Neps /pills on surface (depends on density) - X X - Colour shade difference within same garment/pair

(depends on obviousness)- X X

- Printing fault (depends on obviousness) - X X - Barrenness on knitted fabric (depends on obviousness) - X X - Permanent crease mark - X - - Snagging/Pull-out yarn loop - X - - Needle lines - X - - Dropped stitches - X - - Laddering/Run - X - - Broken End/Pick (Broken yarn for knit) - X - - Compactor Crease/Neps - X - - Barre / Mixed filling/Shade bar/Thick place/Thin place /Streak line - X - - Mending/Repairing mark - X - - Mispick/Missing yarn - X - - Bowed, Biased fabric or Skew - X - - Pilling - X - - Coarse or Fine End/Pick - X X - Slub / Slub yarn ≥5/8” - X - - Colour Fly Yarn - X - - Single yarn - X - - Misprint/Unprint - X X - Out of register/Smash/Dirty printing - X X - Knot - - X - Scratch mark - X X - Scar mark - X X - Streak mark - X X - Burnt mark - X - - Wrinkle / crease mark - X X - Torn - X - - Fabric hole/damage - X - - Missing / bigger / smaller / ventilation hole - X X - Lustre difference - X X - Slanted grain line - X - - Brittle leather - X - - Shaggy leather - X - - Dent Mark - X - - Scissors cut - X - - Bubbled sole - X -


B) Accessories

Critical Major Minor - Any missing accessory - X -

- Dimension, colour, art work or content not as specified - X - - Button inside out - X - - Button marking not removed - X - - Damaged button (no sharp edge/sharp point) - X - - Rusted stud, snap, rivet, buckle, zipper, belt eyelet hook & bar - X -

- Paint peel-off / Poor plating on rivet, snap, clasp, grommet, any metallic closure - X -

- Rivet, snap, clasp, grommet, any metallic closure of logo of wording upside down

- X -

- Button not sewn on fully and securely/Button thread easily pulled out for adult - X - - Button and buttonhole not aligned cause bulge(depends on obviousness) - X X - Buttonhole too small to allow button to pass through - X - - Uncut / partially cut buttonhole - - X - Ragged edges at buttonhole - - X - Broken buttonhole stitches - X - - Button thread easily pulled out - - X - Wordings upside down on button / snap - X X - Gap at zip top / end (depends on size) - X X - Incomplete adhesive on interlining - X X - Illegible information on accessory - X X - Strike through/back from adhesive interlining - X X - Fusing bubbles/wrinkled fuse on interlining - X X - Sparse embroidery - X -

- Missed/Incompleted embroidery pattern - X -

- Wrong way insertion of belt - - X - Insecure / small parts/accessories/trimming (shoulder pad) for adult - X - - Zipper head or pull fall off - X - - Belt loop not fully secure or wrong placement - X - - Zipper / snap / buckle malfunction - X - - Nail not evenly spaced - - X - Wrinkle / pleat / excessive fullness at lining - - X - Tongue shorter than eyelet stay - X - - Eyelets not properly paired - X - - Eyelets not evenly spaced - X - - Deformed shape at eyelet - X - - Plastic not completely removed at decorative ornament - - X - Poor embossment - X X - Up-side down sewing of label - X X - Broken Shoe Lace - X - - Loose Eyelet setting - X X - Flash - - X - Strap not lying flat - X - - Sock not glued - X X


C) Workmanship and appearance:

***Stitch and seam

Critical Major Minor - Crooked/Wavy/Irregular stitching - X X - Loose / tight stitches - - X - Broken stitches on lock stitching - X - - Skipped stitches on lock stitching (≥1/4"- Major, Minor <1/4”) - X X - Broken stitches on chain stitching - X - - Skipped stitches on chain stitching - X - - Run-off stitching (≥1/4"- Major, Minor <1/4”) - X X - Exposed Stitching (>1/8"- Major, Minor ≤1/8”) - X X - Insufficient seam allowance (>1/4"- Major, Minor ≤1/4”) - X X

- Unwanted pleat (<1/8” – Minor, ≥1/8"- Major) - X X

- Under ply seam visible (≥1/4"- Major, Minor <1/4”) - X X

- Needle cut - X - - Seam slippage / Seam grin exposed - X - - Puckered seam - X X - Open seam - X - - Cracked seam - X - - Seam not fully opened - X X - Abrasion feed dog mark - X X - Undulated stitches - - X - Snarled stitches - - X - Loose linking - X - - Drill hole - X - - Incorrect stitch/seam type - X - - Missing stitching - X - - Poor joint stitching / seam - X - - Missing/ Insecured / Damaged bar tack - X - - Wrong placement bar tack - X - - Uncut buttonhole - X - - Ragged edges at buttonhole - - X


***Assembling Critical Major Minor

- Mismatched stripes, checks or prints over 1/8" - X - - Asymmetric collar (≥1/4"- Major, Minor <1/4”) - X X - Uneven collar point (≥1/4"- Major, Minor <1/4”) - X X - Uneven leg length (1/2"- Major, Minor <1/2”) - X X - Uneven Sleeve length (1/2"- Major, Minor <1/2”) - X X - High/low pockets (≥1/4"- Major, Minor <1/4”) - X X - High/low placket (≥ 1/4"- Major, Minor <1/4”) - X X - Pocket flap not centered over pocket (Major > 1/8”, Minor ≤1/8”) - X X - Misalignment of neck (Major >1/4”, Minor ≤1/4”) - X X

- Exposed facing (Major >1/8”, Minor ≤1/8”) - X X - Fusible interlining delaminate/ poor bonding - X X - Fusible interlining bubble / puckering / rippling/strike back /through - X X - Fusible interfacing exposed/damaged - X - - Obvious foreign parts between fusible and fabric - X - - Cracking of fusible interlining and fabric - X - - Uneven hem (Major >1/4”, Minor ≤1/4”) - X X - Uneven/Wavy Hem line (front and back bodice) - - X - Asymmetrical/Uneven or Deformed shape - X - - Color shade variation in same grmt (Major gray scale ≤ 3, Minor gray scale ≥ 3.5) - X X - Zipper wavy/Zipper & tape exposed when closed - X - - Gap at zip top / end (Major >1/4”, Minor ≤1/4”) - X X - Puckering/Gathering - X X - Excessive fullness - X - - Roping/Wavy - X X - Button and Buttonhole not aligned cause bulge - X X - Buttonhole too small, button cannot pass through - X - - Incompatible shrinkage between fabric and fusible interlining - X - - Slanted center back seam (over 1/8”) - X X - Weak cementing - X - - High/Low eyelet stay within same shoe - X - - Poor lasting - X X


***Washing

***Finishing

Critical Major Minor - Permanent washing streaks - X - - Uneven washing effect - X - - Different washing effect (if specified) - X -

- Pills / Hairy on garment surface (depends on density) - X X

- Broken collar / Cuff and Hem after wash - X - - Sand on garment surface - X - - Rocks inside pockets - X - - Heavily odor garment - X - - Hand feel deviated from the standard - X - - Out of approval shade range - X -

Critical Major Minor - Wrinkle (Major obvious, Minor non-obvious) - X X - Wet - X - - Seam not fully pressed open - - X - Crease mark (Major obvious, Minor non-obvious) - X X

- Melt / Burn mark - X - - Water spot (Major obvious, Minor non-obvious) - X X - Colour stain /bleeding (Major obvious, Minor non-obvious) - X X - Oil stain - X X - Glazed / Scratched mark (Major obvious, Minor non-obvious) - X X - Pleated press (Major obvious, Minor non-obvious) - X X - Zip / button mark made by improper pressing - - X - Absence of pressing - X - - Mildew - X - - Dirty mark/Glue mark/Pencil mark/Pen mark/Chalk mark/Dust (Major

obvious, Minor non-obvious) - X X

- Cleaning mark/Ring from cleaning gun (Major obvious, Minor non-obvious) - X X - Pressed mark/Poor pressing - X X - Misplaced/Slanted sewn-in label (fibre content, country of origin or care

instruction)- X -

- Uncut thread loop / ends (<1 ½” – Minor; ≥1 ½” - Major) - X X

- Loose threads - - X - High cement line (over 1/8”) - X X - Flash - - X - Fingerprints - X X


***Fitting

Critical Major Minor - Sway front / back after fit on body form - X - - Sloping shoulder - X - - Large ,hollow ,high or low bust point - X - - Thigh bulge - X -

- Lining exposed - X - - Tight lining - X - - Twisted body / sleeve / leg - X - - Slanted placket - X - - Asymmetric / uneven collar / neck opening - X - - Strap not lay smooth - - X - Crooked / slanted heel - X - - Excessive toe lift (1cm) - X - - Ankle/ heel strap too short - X - - Skewed counter - X - - Deformed toe box - X - - Sole twist - X - - Webbed heel - X - - Dented heel - X - - Heel and sole not level - X -

D) Packaging and Presentation:

Critical Major Minor - Missing or Incorrect unit packaging material (price ticket /hangtag/ label/

clips/ cardboard paper/ tissue paper, etc). - X -

- Missing Security Label - X - - Wrong placement of unit packaging material (price ticket/hangtag/label etc) - X - - Wrong size set - X - - Wrong size/ colour assortment - X -

- Improper folding method of garment - X - - Soil/Dirty polybag / gift box - X - - Bulky/Broken export carton - X - - Empty space 2" or more inside export carton - - X - Wrong Sizing within same pair - X - - Right/left foot position reversed inside shoe box - - X - Miss silica gel pack/tissue paper/ plastic rod - - X - Bulky shoe box / export carton - - X

Part II Common defect in specific items

A) SHIRT / BLOUSE


B) JACKET

Critical Major Minor Collar not symmetrical in size, shape or length (depends on size) - X X Under collar exposed on outside of top collar(depends on obviousness)

- X X

Foreign matter sewn inside the finished collar/yoke/cuff

- - X

Open seam at collar points - X X Yellowish interlining being see through (depends on obviousness)

- X X

Flap points not fully turned out - - X Dart ends not stitched to a fine point - - X

Critical Major Minor Puckered seam at hood facing (depends on obviousness)

- X X

Front placket not down to hem 1/4" or more - X - Uneven fullness at armhole - - X Wrong way insertion of zip (if specified) - - X Snap easily pulled off - X - Uneven or loose elastication on rib/bottom - X - Loosened quilting stitches - - X Malfunctioning of buckle/snap/zipper - X - Fabric easily torn at snap position - X - A noticeable amount of down percolation on the Lining

- -

Down leakage - X - Drill hole exposed - X - Hem not level - X -


C) JEANS

Critical Major Minor High-low waistband ends 1/4" or more - X - Waistband corners not folded in right shape - - X Inclined belt loops - - X Mismatched belt loop colour (depends on obviousness)

- X X

Pocket bag caught in tack - X X Missing bartack (at significant area if specified) - X - Bulged fly (depends on obviousness) - X X Zip exposed when buttoned - X - Rusted studs / rivets - X - Twisted seam at leg 1/2" or more - X - Holes at hem after stone washing 1/4" or more (depends on size)

- X X

Uneven washing effect (depends on obviousness) - X X Different lots of shade from garment to garment - - X


D) KNITTED T-SHIRT

E) SWEATER

Critical Major Minor Neck opening / collar not symmetrical (depends on obviousness)

- X X

Asymmetric body shape - X - Twisted body at side seam 1/2" or more - X - Twisted/slanted/curved/pleated placket (depends on obviousness)

- X X

Color thread shown at back neck - - X Missing shoulder seam strap (if specified) - X - Needle cutting at cuff seaming - X - Stretched / enlarged buttonhole (depends on size) - X X Blind stitching exposed at cuff/hem (depends on obviousness)

- X X

Twisted seam at cuff / bottom (depends on obviousness) - X X Untrimmed seam allowance at inside hem (inside garment) - - X Unleveled hem - - X Mismatched rib color (depends on obviousness) - X X Mismatched stripes / checks at shoulder / side seam 1/8" or above (depends on size)

- X X


Critical Major Minor Wrong knitting pattern - X - Barre - X - Thin/thick place - X - Single yarn - X X Slub yarn - - X Split yarn - - X Yarn run - - X Knots - - X Hole (other than normal loop hole) - X - Laddering - X - Dirty yarn - X X Dropped stitches 1/4" or more (depend on length) - X X Garment weight below specification 1/2 lb or above - X - Neck / opening too small to pass through the head - X - Twisted sleeve 1/2" or more - X - Twisted body 1/2" or more at side seam - X - Shoulder seam / side seam / underarm seam shown at front

- X -

High/low placket 1/4" on bottom - X - Tight armhole (depends on obviousness) - X - Enlarge sleeve (depends on obviousness) - X - Zig Zag seaming at armhole - - X Facing exposed at placket - - X Mildew - X - Odor smell - X - Dusty (depends on obviousness) - X X Harsh hand feel - X - Melt or excessive wash - X - Spirally (10o or more) - X - Mending place - X X Loose linking - - X Tight/Insecure seam end at cuff/hem - X - Different color of seaming yarn - X X Glazed or scorched press at seam - X X Flat press at cable - X X Shiny press at seaming - X X Less elastic at rib cuff/hem - X X Un-removable crease line - X - Pull-out loop - - X


F) LEATHER GARMENT

G) PVC GARMENT

Cri

H) BRA

Critical Major Minor Color shade difference within same garment - X - Needle cutting - X - Flabby/Shaggy nap/ribby/vainness/scabs/score - X X Scratch/surgery/brand/burnt/paint/cut/stretch mark - X - Glue/hammer mark - - X Mildew - X - Odor smell - X - Belly/marbled/drawn/discolored grain - X X Dead fold mark/setting out pleats - X - Without silica gel pack or no warning clause on it - X - Variation in skin thickness across the garment - X - Weak adhesion - X X Loose hair on fur - X X Pencil mark - X X Button mark - - X Hanger mark - - X Scattered leather - X X Grain break/peeling/wrinkles/cracks - X X Pinholes - - X Score - X X Corduroy damage - X X Brine draw - X X Gnawing - X X Salt pits - X X Large hair follicle holes in pig split affecting Appearance

- X -

Blood stain - X X

Critical Major Minor Fold Mark - - X PVC torn at button - X - PVC adhesion - X X Needle Damage - X X


Cr i

I) SWIMWEAR

J) BRIEF / PANTY

Critical Major Minor Wire exposed - X - Frayed edge exposed - - X Untrimmed elastic end - - X Shrunk lace at cup edge - X - Twisted strap - X -

Critical Major Minor A line of needle holes ( 1cm) - X X Loose / tight Lining - X - Flash at accessory - X X Long / Short strap (1 cm) - - X Dirt - X X


K) SILK GARMENT

L) HAT

M) NECK TIE

Critical Major Minor Hole - X - High-low side seam (1cm) - X - Open seam at gusset - X - Uneven leg opening - - X Slanted stripe print > ¼” - X - Slanted stripe print ≤ ¼” - - X Color stain along stitching - - X Curled elastic - X -

Critical Major Minor Fabric fault (course yarn/color yarn) - X X Snagged yarn - X X Oil stain - X X Over wash mark (from sand wash garment) - X X Seam puckering - X X Seam slippage - X - Lining see- through - X - Cleaning mark - - X

Critical Major Minor Sharp point at snap X - - Uneven shape - X - Creased cap - X - Different thickness of cap - X - Broken snap - X - Swing snap - - X Fabric fault - X X Broken stitches - X - Skipped stitches - X X Loose/tight elastic - X - Puckering at binding - X - Puckering at lining - X - Under ply exposed - X X Poor Embroidery - X X

Critical Major Minor Different hand feel - X - Puckering - X - Twisting - X - Art work / design not centered - X X Snagged yarn - X X Edge not pressed straight - X X


N) SOCK

Critical Major Minor Strings joining diamonds less than 1-1/4 inch - X - Waviness at toe seam - X - Pattern / embroidery deviated from center - X - Misplating - X - Twisted grain / ribs (¼ inch) - X - Uneven toe - X X Open seam at heel gore - X - Pilling - X - Barre - X X Uneven sock length (max. 1/4 inch within the pair) - X X Uneven sock length (max. ½ inch from pair to pair) - X X Uneven Top width (max. 1/8 inch within the pair) - X X Uneven Top width (max. ¼ inch from pair to pair) - X X Spot - X - Hole - X - Wrong hook direction - X - Misprint / invisible print on capper - X - Clips fall-off - X - Sticker placement not centered (1/4 inch) - - X


O) SLIPPER P) SPORT SHOE Q) PUMP R) BOOT S) CANVAS SHOE

Critical Major Minor Big stitching gap inside toe portion (over 1cm) - X - Broken stitches - X - Different thickness of sole - X - Fabric Fault - X X Open seam - X X Flash at strap - - - Unsecured decorative bow - X -

Critical Major Minor Mismate (not in pair) - X - Short Lace - X - A line of needle holes - X - Dent mark at foxing - - X Run-off stitches - - X

Critical Major Minor Shoe cannot stand unsupported - X - Narrow toe box - X - Unsmooth surface at sock - X X Glue stain - X X Protruded nail X - - Scratched mark - X X

Critical Major Minor Uneven texture - X - Shank not straight - X - Unclear sock stamp - - X

Critical Major Minor Deformed shape at outsole - X X Inclined / not smooth quarter - X X High cement line (over .03cm) - - - Poor lasting - - X Puckering - X X Fabric fault - X X Seam puckering at binding - X X High-low counter within same pair (gray scale 4) - X - Sharp point at eyelet X - - Dent mark at toe rubber - X X Different length of toe rubber within same pair - X - Weak cementing - X -

aeo and aerie garment inspection manual

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