2- garment inspection

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S8/s5/S5 Fabric inspection systems for apparel industry! Garments, Fashion & Retail I Features I The ITJ

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What is garment inspection?

Garment inspectionInspection in reference to quality control in the apparel industry can be defined as

the visualexamination or review of raw materials (such as fabric, buttons, zippers,

sewing threads, etc), partially finished components of the garments and completely

finished garments in relation tosome standards, specifications, or requirements

including the measurement of the garments toensure the satisfaction of the

customers.

All garment retailers expect to sell high quality products from manufactures. The quality

of the garments any vary depends on the price market they are being made for so

therefore buyers expect manufacturers expect manufacturers to follow various methods

of inspection techniques all through the production and prior to shipment release from

factory. Following correct inspection procedures, inspection systems and eventually

shipment release gives the clear judgment of the quality of the garment.

Steps of Garment Inspection

Flow Chart of Garment Inspection

Confirmation of Quantity

Confirmation of accessories

Size spec inspection

In side Inspection

Out side Inspection

Final Inspection

Packing

Inspection Procedure of Garments are

Described Below:

1. Confirmation of Quantity:

First step ofgarment inspectionstart with confirmation of Quantity with

the vendors packing list by counting all Pecs. Of each box. If Qty is not

matching to the packing list and written in the box then this discrepancy

is informed to the vendor.
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2. Confirmation of Accessories:

Next step is the confirmation ofaccessories, here we confirm brand tags,

demerit tags, Price tags, or other tags, wash care labels, woven labels,

or other labels and accessories as required by the buyer.

3. Size Spec inspection:After confirmation of accessories all pcs are checked as per size spec

based on the instruction sheet which is given by the buyer side. If any

measurement problem is noticed then we check the original sample and

inform the buyer same time.

4. In Side Inspection:

At this stage garment is checked from reverse side to ensure that there is

no fabric defect, poorstitching, and stains etc in the garment.

5. Out Side Inspection:

At this stage garment is checked from outside to ensure that there is no

color variation, weaving defect, fabric defect, printing defect, holes, poor

stitching, bad smell , dying defect and stains etc in the garment.

6. Final Inspection:

Final Inspection stage is the most important part of inspection process,

here garment is rechecked to confirm that inspection is done properly

without missing any checking step if any defect is noticed we put it into

rejection bin or send it for repay.

7. Packing:

All Grade-A goods are put back into poly bags as per the original

packaging and then they are send for needle inspection .

So, depending on the quality of defect some garments are send for repair and some are rejected.

QUALITYIdeal condition of excellence.Product quality is based on a product attribute.

User-based quality is fitness for use, manufacturing based quality is conformance toi t
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value based quality is the degree of excellence at anacceptable priceISO 9000:2000 Defines it as degree to which a set ofinherentcharacteristics fulfill requirement.

Quality inspection in apparel industries:Visual examination or review of raw materials,partially finishedcomponents of garments and completely finishedgarments inrelation to some standards, specifications, orrequirements, as

well as measuring garments to check if they meetthe requiredmeasurements.

Quality inspection in apparel industries:done to control quality of garments.Checking offabric,sewing thread,button,stitch, zipper,garments size etcaccording to required standard or specification isknown as inspection.Quality inspection is important for every section of

apparelindustries.

0Steps in apparel industries to control quality1. Raw Material Inspection;2. In Process Inspection;3 Final Inspection;


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Raw Material Inspection:Fabric InspectionSewing Thread InspectionTrims & Accessories check

Fabric Inspection

done through Fabric Inspection machine. very important for every industries . In fabric inspection their checks several things i.e.

in fabric arethere any defect available or not. In fabric, fabricdefects viz.off shade or shade variation, hole in fabric, barreeffect etc.can be visual after entering into the store room. Forthosedefects it will be problem able for making garments

making. In fabric inspection, also check fabric strength,color, quantityTo check fabric there are different system i.e. 4 pointsystem,10 point system etc.

Sewing Thread Inspection

During stitching fabric frequently brakeage ofsewing threadis one of the great problems for garmentsmanufacturing. Sothat it is necessary to checkthread construction,sewability,

color,imperfection,fi i h k


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density,winding,yardage of sewing threadIn thread construction

thread number,thread ply,thread tenacity,thread elongation,number of twistis necessary to check

Trims & Accessories checkButton,Zippers interlining, label &tagsalso need to check so that quality can be maintain

accordingto required quality.For button,button strength, button color, quantity etcare checked.

FABRIC INSPECTION POLICIES

The purpose of fabric inspection is to determine the quality and acceptability

for our garments. It also allow us to prevent loss of material and time during

the garment manufacturing process.

Fabric inspection, mapping or marking defects is important prior to spreading

and cutting because:

Spreading can be done more quickly because the spreader is not also inspectingthe fabric.


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1Purpose of fabric inspectionFabric Inspection is an important

aspect followed prior to garment

manufacturing to avoid rejects due

to fabric quality and facing with

unexpected loss in manufacturing.Fabric inspection is done for

fault/defect rate, fabric

construction, end to end or edge to

edge shading, colour, hand or feel,

length/width, print defect andappearance. Fabric inspection

ensures to minimise the

rejection of cut panels or

rejected garments due to

fabric faults. Cutting inspected and

approved fabric ensures not only

finished garment quality but also

reduces rejects, improves efficiency

and timely deliveries.

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S8M/S5 Fabric inspection systems for apparel industry! Garments, Fashion & Retail I Features I The ITJ

The purpose of fabric inspection is to determine the

quality and acceptability for garments.

As fabric is received, it should be inspected to

determine acceptability from a quality viewpoint.Some garment manufacturers rely on their fabric

suppliers to perform fabric inspection and fabric

defects. In many small companies, spreading and

cutting is done by the same personnel and fabric is

inspected as it is being spread on a table for cutting.

Fabric inspection, mapping or marking defects is

important prior to spreading and cutting because:

Spreading can be done more quickly because thespreader is not also inspecting the fabric.

A cutter's productivity wil l increase because thedefects are already marked.

The patterns are cut around the defects so as not toinclude them in the finished garment

How much to inspect?

When a sewing factory receives fabric from the mill, it

is difficult to conduct a full 100% inspection of the

fabric. A minimum 10% inspection of all piece goods

prior to spreading the fabric is recommended.

Fabric Inspection SystemsTh rious fabric inspection systems:


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10-Point System.

Graniteville "78" system.

Dallas system.

4- Point system .

4-Point System

The 4-Point System, also cal led the American Apparel Manufacturers (AAMA) point-grading system for determining fabric

qual i ty , i s w idely used by produce rs o f apparel fabr ics and is endorsed by the AAMA as wel l as the ASQC (Amer ican

Society or Quality Control).

The 4-Point System ass igns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the s ize and s ignif icance of the defect. No more than 4

penalty points can be ass igned for any s ingle defect. Defect can be in either length or width direct ion, the system

remains the same. Only major defects are considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects.

n this system, one should inspect at least 10 per cent of the total ro l ls in the shipment and make sure to select at least

one roll of each colour way.

Fabric defects are assigned points based on the following:

ngth of Defect Penalty points

to 3 inches 3

- 6 inches

- 9 inches

Over 9 inches

les and Openings (1

inch or less)

les and Openings(over linch)

1 Point

2 Points

3 Points

4 Points

2 Points

4 Points

Total defect points per 100 square yards of fabric are calculated and the acce ptance cr iter ia is general ly not more than 40

penalty points. Fabric ro l ls containing more than 40 points are considered "seconds".

The formula to calculate penalty points per 100 square yards is given by:

Total paints seared in the roll_k .3riifl(1

Fabric width in inches x Total yards inspeced


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No more than 4 penal ty po ints can be ass igned for any s ing le defect .

The fabr ic i s graded regard less o f the end-product .

This system makes no provis ion for the probabi l i ty of minor defects.

4 point system is most widely used system in apparel industry as i t is easy to teach and learn.


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Revision: A Date: 04/05/07 Page: 10 of 8

Fabric inspect ion is done in suitable and safe environment with

ventilation and proper l ighting.

Fabric pass ing through the inspect ion frame must be betwe

degree angles to inspector and must be done on appropriate

l ight above viewing area. Back l ight can be used as and whe

Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be more than 15 yar

minute. All fabric inspec tion must be done when 80% of good

prior to inspection.

6 . Approved standard of bulk dye lot must be ava i lab le before start ing insp ect ion for

assess ing col our, hand, weight, construct ion, f inish and visual appearance.

7 . Shade cont inui ty wi th in a ro l l by check ing shade var iat ion between cent re and

selvage and the beginn ing, middle and end of each ro l l must be evaluated and

documented.

8 . Text i les l ike kni t s must be evaluated for weight again s t s tandard approved weight .

9 . Fabr ic width must be checked f rom selvage to se lvage agains t s tandard.

10. A l l d e fec t s mus t be f l agged dur i ng i nspec t i on .

11. The length of each roll inspected must be compared to length as mentioned on

supplier t icketed tag and any deviation must be documented and reported to mill for

addit ional replacement to avoid shortage.

12. I f yard dyed o r p r in ted f abr i cs a re be ing inspected the repeat measurement mus tbe done f rom beg inn ing ,

middle

and end of

selected rolls.

Conclusion

Appa rel manufa ctu rer s ins pe ct th e fa bri c st oc k upon arr iva l, so th at an y fa bri c irr egul ariti es are

caught early in the product ion process. Text i le producers also general ly inspect fabrics

before sending them to manufacturers. After ident if icat ion of fabric defects, a system needs

to be fo l lowed to grade the defects to ascertain i ts acceptance or reject ion. 4-Point fabric

inspection system is mostly used in textile industry around the globe now. This test method

describes a procedure to establ ish a numerical des ignat ion for grading of fabrics from a

visual inspect ion. It may be used for the del ivery and acceptance of fabrics with

requirements mutual ly agreed upon by the purchaser and the suppl ier. This system does not

establ ish a qual i ty level for a given product, but rather provides a means of def ining defects

according to their severity by ass igning demerit point values. Al l type of fabrics whether grey

or f inished, can be graded by this system.

FABRIC SAMPLING PLAN

The following sampling plan lists the minimum quantity of fabric for each pattern, color way, or print,

which must be inspected. All rolls to be sampled will be randomly selected by the inspector. Once a

roll has been selected, no adjustments will be made.

MPLE PLAN

e


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Lot Size

Yards

0 - 2,500

Inspection

Yards

not less

Lot Size

Meter

s

Inspection

Meter

s

Percent of

Total Lot

2

2,501 - 251 - 500 2,301 - 230 - 450 1

001 - 20,000 400 - 4,501 360 - 1465 8

,001 - 30,000 1,200 - 18,301 1,100

6

All inspected rolls will be identi fied with an inspection tag. This tag may not be removed by anyone

prior to the production cutting.

POINT CALCULATION

For an Individual Roll:

Po in t s pe r 100 Squa re Ya rds = To ta l Po in t s f o r t he ro l l x 3600

Inspected Yards x Cuttable Fabric Width (inch)

Points per 100 Square Meters = Total Points for the rol l x 100 ,000

Inspected Meters x Cuttable Fabric Width (MM)

For a Shipment:

Total Shipment Points per 100 Sq. Yards = Total Average Points per Linear Yard x 3600

Shipment Inspected Yards x Cuttable Fabric Width (inch)

Total Shipment Points per 100 Sq. Meters = Total Average Points per Linear Meter x 10,000

Shipment Inspected Meters x Cuttable Fabric Width (MM)

In Process Inspection

Inspecting different parts of garments before sewingare

called in process inspection.

4.0Process Flow Chart for In Process Inspection


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S8M/S5 Fabric inspection systems for apparel industry! Garments, Fashion & Retail I Features I The ITJ


Manufacturing

Process

Approved

Product sampled at

periodic

intervals and

measured for

conformance to

s

p

ecification

I

nspection

results

Acce t Re ec

maintenance

Finished


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Manufacturing

a r

First article


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It starts from marker making, than fabric spreading, fabric

cutting, fabric sewing, pressing or finishing checking is donein process.marker makingfabric spreadingfabric cuttingsorting/ bundlingfabric sewingseam defects

assembly defectspressing/ finishing defects

Marker Making

Precise arrangement of pattern pieces or process of determiningthe

most efficient layout of pattern pieces

Points to be considered before marker making

Fabric length must be higher than marker length.


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oLength of the cutting table.

oProduction planning.When pattern pieces are laid down on the piece of cloth, the grain lineshould be parallel to the line of the warp in the woven fabric and walin the knitted fabric.

Factors which must be checked

It is necessary to check all the parts of garments pattern are inmarker. In marker labelling or coding of pattern should be checked Pattern direction should be checked. The entire pattern are sated correctly. Pattern grain line is very important thing which must beconsidered during marker making.

During marker making every pattern pieces dimension should beaccurate. During marker making fabric length and width should beconsidered. Marker width Notches & drill marks Knife clearance Checks and stripes (mittering)

Marking defects:1.Shaded Parts:-All component pans not included in samesection.2. Pieces not Symmetrical:-Will not sew together withoutpuckering or

pleating.3. Not Marked by Directional Lines:-Bias will not lit


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twisting, puckering. pleating and a general mismatching ofcomponentparts.

4. Skimpy marking:-Marker did not use outside perimeter opattern.Pattern moved after partially marked to fit into space.5. Notches and Punch Marks:-Left out., not clearly markedor misplaced.6. Marker Too Wide:-Parts will not catch in lay, causingskimpy garments or

requiring results.7 Marker Too Narrow:-Results In wasted material.8. Mismatched Plaids-Marker did not block component partto match.9. Misdirected Napping:-Patterns not marked in samedirection and napped

fabrics.

Spreading inspection

Factors which must be checked Fabric Nature Ply alignment Ply tension/slackness Bowing Splicing Grain-line Shade variation Selvedge alignment & tightness. Fabric width Checks Static electricity

Spreading Defects


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1.Uneven Spreading:- Front edge oflay is not even,resulting in front or backedge of marker not catching all ply.

2.Narrow Material:- Bolts or rolls of material too narrow tocover markerwidth.3.Missed Sectional Breaks:- Sectional marker breaks toolong or too short.Parts in lay will be short or material wasted.4.Improper Tension:- Cloth spread too tight or too loose,

causing parts not tofit in sewing or distorting dimensions of garments..Mismatching Plaids:- Material spread too loose or too tightcausing plaidlines to run diagonally or bow.6. Misdirected Napping:-Air pockets not removed. Napped

material reversedin spreading.7. Improper Matching of Face of Material:-Not spread facedown, face up orface to face as required.Cutting inspection

Factors/defects which must be checked Frayed edge Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges Ply to ply fusion Single edge fusion Pattern precision Notches & drillers Cutting Equipment precision

Cutting Defects


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1.Marker or Perforator:- Not stapled or stencilled on lay to catch bothedgescausing parts to miss in cutting. Too tight or too loose, distortingdimensions of

garment. Perforated stencil ,not powdered or inked, sufficiently toshow distinctlines, notches and punch marks.2. Misplaced Piece Rate Tickets or Bundle Members:-Attached to, ormarked on,wrong bundles, causing mixed sizes or land shades.3. Drill Marks:- Drill marks misplaced, not perpendicular, omitted orwrong side drill

used.4. Opening Slits:- Cut under above to the side or at incorrect angle. Nocutthrough entire bundle or omitted.5. Improper Cutting:- Not following marker lines, resulting in distortedparts. Lettingknife lean causing top and bottom ply to be of different sizes.6. Notches:- Misplaced, too deep, too shallow or omitted.

7. Oil Spots:- Equipment improperly oiled or cleaned.8. Improper Knife Sharpening:-Causing ragged, frayed or fused edgesonbundles.9. Knife or Scissor Cut:-Piece damaged by over run in cutting previouspiece.

Sewing inspection

Most large & important section. Necessary to check all the machine operators work. Some common faults and problems must be consideredSewing defectsSeaming defectsAssembly defectsPressing or Finishing defects

Sewing inspection


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Skipped stitch Thread breaks Seam pucker Wrong stitch density

Uneven stitch Staggered stitch Improperly formed stitch

Sewing inspectionStitching Defect and Cause1.Machine do not run-# Not plugged in or turned on

#Outlet switch off.#Circuit breakdown.2.Machine do not stitch properly-# Machine dirty.#Machine incorrectly threaded#Needle needs replacement.3.Machine does not feedProperly-

#Insufficient or too muchpressure on pressure foot#Stitch length too short.

4.Skip stitching-# Machine incorrectly threaded.#Machine dirty#Needle damage/needle set or

threaded incorrectly.#Needle makes hole too large ortoo short#Needle too much fine for thread#Thread tension too tight/ threadstretches when heated.#Machine timing needs adjustment#Fabric not held properly.

Sewing inspection


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Seaming defects: Uneven width Fault stitch line Back stitch must be given properly

Twisting Check or strip matching Seam matching Wrong stitch face side or back side; Thread color shade variation.

Sewing inspection

Assembly defects:

Finished component of not accurate size. Garments not accurate in size. If any design skip to join. Component is not joining in right place. If lining is tight or loose. If parts direction is wrong.

Sewing inspection

Pressing or Finishing: Fabric burn or burn spot attach with body. Any types of water spot. Color shading occurs because of hot ironing. Button is insecure or broken. Garments are folding accurately. Pocket is pressed smoothly and except fold. Garments shape is accurate.

Stains, Wrinkles, Correct labels, Any thing that detracts fromoverall appearance

Sewing inspection

Folding defects

garment is not folded to specification

garment not folded with proper material like cardboard,

tissues or other material. incorrect pins or folds


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Final Inspection

In final inspection generally inspect fully complete garments.

Before final inspection there has no chance to check completegarments. It is important from the buyer to finally check. Infinal inspection normally garments size, form fitting, fabricfaults are check.

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