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C OTTON WA STE

ITS PRODUCTION ,MAN IPULAT ION

AND USES

THOMAS THORNLEYHEAD OF THE TEXTILE DEPARTMENT, TECHN ICAL SCHOOL, BOLTON

AUTHOR OF“COTTON COMBI NG MACHI NES," “

poT‘

I‘

ON SPI NN I NG "

( ELEMENTARY,I NTERMED I ATE AND ADV ANCED

SECOND EDIT ION,REV ISED AND ENLARGED

WITH NINETY-ONE ILLUSTRATIONS

LONDON

S C O TT, G R E E NW O O D S O N

8 BROADWAY ,LUDGATE ,

192 1

!A ll rz'glzts reserved]

PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION .

IN sp ite of the tremendous effects of the Great War on the

c otton waste industry in all its connecti ons , the orig inal con

tents of the first editi on of this work have now needed only

the addi ti on of a few footnotes. War- time c onditi ons at

tracted intense interest to the uses of cotton waste , and the

author has been gratified to learn that th is treatise has

p layed no mean part in enl ightening many people on matters

demanding“

practi cal attention in regard to cotton waste and

its treatment.

Condenser cotton waste sp inning has extended and is

extend ing all over the cotton texti le districts of the world .

Whi le the rev isi ons of the first ed iti on of th is treatise

have been a lmost nil,the book has been greatl y enlarged by

the additi on of chapters deal ing w ith many imp ortantmatters

omitted from, and g iving extended treatment to matters not

sufficiently dea lt w ith , in the first ed iti on .

The book has fi l led a p lace of its own in texti le l iterature

and the author has endeavoured to increase its value to the

industry by adding new chapters .

The thanks of the auth or and pub l ishers are hearti ly

acc orded to the vari ou s mach ine mak ing firms who have

k indly ai ded in the il lu strati ons and descripti ons. In every

case names of firms have been s tated in the text.

THOMAS THORNLEY.

Ap ril, 1921.

PREFACE TO THE FIRST ED ITION .

THIS treatise upon cotton waste is designed to be of service

to all who are directly or indirectly concerned with the pro~

duction , uses and treatment of cotton waste in any of its

forms .

The master, manageJ

r, or foreman of any ordinary cotton

spinning mi l l w i l l find in these pages many notes and dis

eussi ons relating to the producti on ,characteristi cs, regulati on ,

and treatment of cotton waste in his own factory .

A secti on also is devoted to a descripti on of the weaving

and general uses of yarns spun from cotton waste.

The work ,however, dea ls special ly w ith a descripti on of

the mach inery and processes involved in the c lea\ning ,

Open

ing ,carding , and spinning of cotton waste , and it may be

reasonably c laimed that the treatment of the subject is ful l ,

comprehens ive , and deta iled .

Parti cularly are the processes andmachinery required for

the producti on of condenser cotton waste yarns exp la ined

herein and certainly no one interested in this l ine of work

ought to be w ithout th i s treatise .

It has been the aim of the author to prepare a treatise

l ikely to prove of practi ca l he lp to persons connected with

a lmost every secti on of our g iganti c cotton trade, so far as

the waste questi on is concerned .

vi i

PREFACE TO THE FIR ST ED IT ION .

In these days of keen competiti on and stri ct attenti on to

deta i l , no one can afford to neg lect the questi on of waste,

whether it be in the directi on of reducing its amount , or

app lying it more and more to useful and profitab le purposes.

The thanks of the author and pub l ishers are due to those

firms who have supp l ied some of the i l lustrati ons , and whose

names are menti oned in the text.

THOMAS THORNLEY.

BOLTON, Sep tember, 1912.

CONTENTS.

PART I .

CHAPTER I .

PAGETHE PRODUCTION , CHARACTERISTICS, AND REGULATION OF COTTONWA STE .

—The Use of‘Cotton Waste—The Making of Waste in Cotton Mills

Introduction—The B lowing -room— Various K inds ofWaste Dropp ings—Waste from Crighton Opener with Hopper Feeder—Scutcher Droppings—The Leaf Bars— Licker-in Fly—The Beater Bars of Openersand Scutchers —The Schaelibaum Bars—Testing forWaste— Ca lcu lat ions on Waste per cent .—Summary of Wastes—Carding Eng ineWaste— Card Strips— Long Fibre in F lat Strips—The Stripping of

F lat Cards—Remova l of Stripping Dust— C la ims for Vacuum Systemof Stripping Cylinders and Dofiers of Cards— Dust E xtraction and

the W ire C lothing of a Card—Vacuum System of StrippingFront P late of the Carding Engine— Communi cations on the FrontPlate Quest ion sent to the Author—Hol land’s Web Conductor forCarding Eng ines— Hand Cards—Undercasings— Comber WasteThe D isposa l of the Comber Waste—Lecture—Defects in RovingsTheir Causes and Remedies—The Work on Self-acting MulesSpinning Waste, Middle Iron Rol ler Laps, Fluker Rods , and CrowsforMule Bottom Rol lers— Band ing—AManager

s Letter onWastefin

Cotton Mi l ls—The Waste Quest ion—Waste and Stop-motions for

Doubl ing Frames—E xtra Waste from Inferior Cotton—Ful ler Deta ilsof Waste in Ind ian Mil ls— Double Yarn on R ing Frames

CHAPTER II .

TREATMENT OF BEST COTTON WASTE S IN COTTON -SPINN ING M ILLS , WITHOTHER NOTES—Treatment of Roving Waste—Roving Waste Opening—Modern Roving Waste Openers—Del ivery of Waste— B lending of

theWaste from Roving Opener—ExcessiveUse ofWaste—The CylinderLags of Roving Waste Opener—The Gearing—Another Make of

Roving Waste Opener —Thread Extractor—Automati c Feed— Processof Recovering Good Cotton from Carding Eng ine Strips—Letter onCotton Mi l l Waste

X CONTENTS .

CHAPTER III.

PAGETHE OPENING AND CLEAN ING OF COTTON WASTE — Summary of Machines

more or less used in the Treatment of Cotton Waste—Possib le Systems

of Machinery in Using Cotton Waste—Mixings— Soaping Apparatus—Opening and C leaning of Cotton Waste : General Remarks—Productions—The W i l low— Centra l Feature : Strong Spikes—A Makeof W i l low— Genera l Appearance of W illow— Sp iked CylindersWeighting of Feed Rollers— Preparation System—The W illow—Copbottom Machine—B low-room Fires—Heavy Driving— The SoaperSingle Cyl inder, Three Cylinders, and Six Cylinders Six -cylinderMachine - Cotton Waste : Systems of Machines—The ScutcherExtra Beaters— Cop -bottom Breaking Machinet Single

-beater Lapform ing Scutching Machine with Hopper Feeder—The Scutcher Barsand Lap

- licking—Hard Ends— The Crighton 89 -129

CHAPTER IV .

THE CARD ING OF COTTON WASTE —Rollers and C learers— Action of Rol lerand C learer —Specification of Cotton Waste Card —~The Cylinder— TheW ire Covering—Methods of Feeding the Breaker Card—Double LapMethod— Single-breaking Carding Eng ine— Methods of Feeding theFinisher Card—The Lap Drum —The Scotch Feed— Tin Rollers—TheDerby Doubler— Derby Doubler for Cotton Waste—Improved LatticeFeed—The “ Fancy ” and “ Humbug Rollers—The Fancy Rol lerSing le-fin ishing Carding Engine Breaker and Finisher CardsCombined with Scotch Feed—Methods of Delivering Cotton Wastefrom Finisher Cards— The Preparation System—The R ing Dofier

System— Rubbers— The Tape Condenser— The Rubbers —Patent“ Leather Tape ” Condenser—Waste Carding , Side Sl ivers— Patentfor Perfecting Side Ends in Card ing Eng ines—Remarks on CottonWaste Carding— Patent Automati c Feed ing Machine for BreakingCarding Engines— Single F inishing Carding Eng ine with PatentQuadruple

'

Coiling and Can Motion—Adjustment of Rol lers and

C learers—Flat Card— The Humbug , ” Fancy,” and D irt Rollers ,Genera l Remarks—The Universal Carding Principle— Universa l Cotton Waste Set

,72 in. wide— Tape Condensers—Double Dofiing Ar

rangement for Cotton Waste Cards —Other Double Doffer Condensers— Condenser Bobbins—The Waste Card Condenser—Feed Rollers of

Card— Specia l Rol lers— Preparat ion System—Waste Carding EnginesDouble Cards—Dirt Roller—The Humbug—The Fancy— CondenserComb ined Driving for Cards— Improved Waste Slubbing Frame for

Preparatory System 130-191

CHAPTER V .

FINAL SPINN ING MACHINES FOR COTTON WASTE — Pecul iar Spinn ing Ma

chines—The Can Spinning Frame— The Spindle and Cop—Cup

spinning Machine—The Chapon'

Spinning Frame—THE SELF-ACTOR

CONTENTS .

PAGEMULE .

—Draughting of Cotton Waste on the Waste Mu le—TheHeadstocks—Spindles and Productions— Cotton Waste Mule withCotton Headstock—Dri ving for Variable Spindle Speeds— Three

Speeds of Spindle— Stop Motions—Remarks on Three-speed Driv ingand Waste Mules—Round of Movements in Cotton Waste Mule—TheSlubbing Motion—Wheel Slubbing Mot ion—Self-acting Mule—Slubbing Mot ion—Draw-back Motion—Spind le StopMotion—The Drawback Motion—W inding C l ick Mot ion—Details—Special MotionsGauge and Speed—R ing Frame for Cotton Waste

CHAPTER VI .

THE USE OF COTTON WASTE YARN S INWEAV ING .—TheWeaving of Cotton

Waste Yarns—Woven Goods in which YarnsSpun from Cotton Wastemay be Used—R aising Process—C leaning C loths—Doub le C lothWeave with Waste Cotton Weft—Waste in Weaving Sheds—CopSkewering—Improved Tubular W inding Machine 232-245

CHAPTER VII .

V ARIOUSNOTES . —The Counts of Cotton WasteYarns—Approm’

mate Pri cesof Cotton Waste—Approximate Pri ces of Condenser Yarns—CottonSeed Products—The Condenser Rubbers—Stripping—Banding— Overlooking and K inds of Waste—Hard Ends—Workmen—Fine Countsfrom Waste— Cone- drum Driving forMules—Use of Stores—Wool lenand _Worsted Machines , Summary—Carding and Spinning Machinery—Coa l— C ity Gui lds Examination Questions, 1909—VigogneYarnsExtracts from Recent Consular Reports—Wastes in theWool len Trade— Absorbent Cotton—Waste in Doub ling—Waste in W iping up OilLoose Cotton B leaching—Waste in Ameri can Mills—Artificial SilkB a ine’s Loss Table , 1833—New Pa tent Machine—Fire R isk withCotton Waste—Danger of Flannelette—Cand lewick— Carpet CopsCondensed Yarn—Objectionable Wastes—Wool len Mil l WastesInd ian Raw Cotton

PART II .

CHAPTER V I I I .

SUMMARY OF COMPLETE PLANT FOR PROD UCING CLEAN ING CLOTHSWASHING THEM , OIL EXTRACTION .

—Sewing of C leaning C lothsWashing of C leaning C loths—Oil Recovering from Greasy C lothsSoft Waste Machines—Engine C leaning Waste—Wadd ing—CottonBand ing— Gun Cotton— Sorting Tables— Fire Protection— Soapwater for Waste Mixings—Method of Using Mixing 274 -288

xii . CONTENTS .

CHAPTER IX.

PAG EVARIOUS COTTON WA STE MACHINES —Machine with Del ivery Latt ice

and Soaper—Hard Waste Breaking -up Machine—Three-cyl inderMachine— Lengths and Breadths of Strapping , and Lengths of RopesRoving Waste Opener—Hopper Feeder for Roving Waste OpenerVertical Beater Opener—Balanced Rope Driving -The Kirschener

or Toothed Beater— Hopper Feeder for Carding Eng ines—NotesAlteration of-Counts of Yarn— Condensers 289 -308

CHAPTER X.

CARDING OF COTTON WASTE —Care of Fi l leting— Breakage of EndsScotch Feed Grinding Machines—Fancy Rol ler—Broad Band Feedfor Cards—Roving Frame for Waste—Roving Frame for Band ingRoving Frame for Spinning

CHAPTER XI.

FINAL SPINN ING PROCESSES . False Twisting Machine— Rol lers and

C learers—Angle of Roller Stands on R ing Frame—Reced ing MotionCarriage Stop Motion—Slubbing Motion for Waste Mule— Three

speeds for Mule Spindles (Hetherington’s)— Reversing Motion for

Mule Spindles— Openers and Scutchers— Carding Eng ine SettingsDeta i ls and P lan of Waste Mules— Twisting Roller Del ivery MotionCondenser Mule Deta ils—Treble Spindle Speed for Condenser MuleRim Shaft forWaste Mule— Carriage Retarding Motion 825-355»

CHAPTER XII.

PROCESSES SUBSEQUENT To SPINN ING .—Reeling— P]an of R ing -mil l for

14’

s Counts—Beaming or Warping Mach ine—Constant Multipl iersW ind ing Frames— C loths in which Cotton Waste Yarns may be Used— Botany and Angola Yarns—Wool Wastes—Grad ing of CottonPurchasing of Cotton—Mixings of Cotton Waste—Dish Feed for

Carding Eng ines— Kinds of Cotton Waste—Uneven Laps—RevolvingF lat versus Rol ler Card for Waste—Erection of Roving Frame

Stripping and Grind ing of Card ing Engines— R ing Dofier Condenserand Tape Condenser— Erection of Scutcher— Percentages of WasteInjury to Cotton F ibre—Indicators for Roving Frames—Ga iting of

New R ing Frame— Defects in Working of Mule—Kinds of CottonWaste— Features of Mule Spinning for Cotton Waste—G inning and

Packing Faults 356-393

INDEx 394

CHAPTER .I .

THE PRODUCTION , CHARACTERISTICS , AND REGULATION OF

COTTON WASTE .

The Use of\

Cotton Waste.

IT has been repeatedly impressed upon ourEngl ish cotton spinners

and manufacturers that certa in countries abroad are far ahead of

us in regard to the uti l i za t ion of cotton waste . Indeed,i t may be

said that certa i n distr icts of Germany almost lead the world in

this particular direct ion . Not only does Germany import a fa i r

amount of cotton waste from this country,but a lso a far larger

amount from the Uni ted States . I t is no more convenient to

blend the wastes from America with those from E gyptian and

Sea Islands cotton than i t is to mix these widely different cottons

in ordinary cotton spinning,and the German imports

,

of cotton

waste from Amer ica can genera lly be re l i ed upon for reasonable

uniform ity in this respect . In the German market there is a dis

t inct preference for imported soft waste,and Germany appears to

be more than able and wil l ing to absorb practical ly all the soft

cotton waste obtainable from France,E ngland

, and America . A

good price is often paid for the best clean,soft waste

,reaching

sometimes up to 70 per cent or so of the price of raw cotton,

which is not to be wondered at when we remember ' that such .

was te may not need Opening and clean ing by the usual processes,

and wil l lose very l i ttle i n weight . The best clean,soft waste

must not be confused with soft waste that is more or less dirty,

and is sometimes exceed ingly so. In a consular report i t wasstated that i n 1907 Germany imported l i nters and cotton was tefrom mil ls to the extent of lb . from the United‘.

States,

lb . from India,and only lb . from

England . Severa l countries ship some sorts of waste to Germany”and import other kinds therefrom . Germany purchases all kind sof cotton waste from the United States , but i n part icular soft wastessuch as sweepings

,fly

,and str ips . Some of this goes to make

2 COTTON WASTE .

coarse towellings,scrubbing cloths

,dish rags

,cheap cotton blankets

,

and fiannelettes . The counts are usual ly very coarse - say from 5’

s

to 5’

s or 6’

s,a l though the very best sorts range up to 10

s or even

12’

s counts . In a genera l way yarns Spun from cotton waste are

i n tended for the wefts of woven goods of one description or an

o ther , and the warp may be of better and finer yarn,either from

cotton , l inen or other well-known texti le fibre .

Recently'

very great interest has been centred in the subjectof cotton-waste spinning

,and i t is very l ikely that i n future a

good dea l more cotton waste will be made into yarn in this country

than has hitherto been the case . Of course,i t is not to be for

gotten that the large increase in the number of ordinary cottonspinning mil ls will have placed a larger quant ity of cot ton waste

on the market, and this will largely compensate for the increased

demand for waste caused by the recent extens ion in number of

Spindles for the Spinning of cotton waste i nto yarn of low countsand qual i ty . Another point to remember

,however, . in this con

nexion is that a waste - spinning machine is enormously productive— not because of the high spindle Speed

,because this is wonder

fully low,Often only about 350 revolut ions per minute

,and not

even because of a high carriage Speed, as a good speed is five draws

per minute . The great production in pounds weight is , of course ,due to the low counts that are spun

,so that if a waste mule spinning

3'

s counts can produce 21 hanks per Spindle per week , this wil l

e qual 7 lb . per spindle . A cotton mule on ordinary cotton yarns

o f about 3o’

s can produce something l ike 30 hanks per Spindle

p er week , which only equals 1 lb . per Spindle , whereas i t would

e qual 7% lb . of 4’

s yarn .

The Making of Waste in Cotton Mills — Introduction.

In the earl ier days of cotton spinning on the factory system

a much larger proportion of the raw cotton was rej ected as was te

a t one stage or another in going through the mill processes.

Thirty years ago a great many cotton mills were very lax i n the ir

m ethods of checking the waste losses , and much more good fibre

found its way i nto the was te bags and cans than is now the case .

I t is an actual fact that within the present writer’

s own persona l(experience when a youth

,the frame overlooker of a certa in well

«establ ished and large mil l regularly connived with the fireman ,and every week personal ly put in s ide the boiler fires a good quan

THE PRODUCT ION OF COTTON WA STE 3

ti ty of bobbin waste in order to deceive those in higher authori ty

as to the amount of bobbin waste that was made . This practice

had been going on for years before i t was final ly exposed .

Formerly i t was the usual thing, even for users of average

American cotton,to work both the t aker- ins and the cylinders of

carding engines without undercasings , and to extract double or

more of the percentage of fly than is now accepted as a basis .

We expect these art icles will more than serve the purpose of

Showing the huge importance of properly regulat ing the amount

and character of the waste that is made in our spinning mil ls,

and also of ut i l i zing to the bes t advantage the waste that is un

avoidably and necessari ly made . On the other hand , we Show

that it is easy enough to reach a foolish extreme in usi ng up too

much of the soft waste i n our own mills ; but i t is qu ite as un

bus iness - l ike to allow too much waste to be made and sold at a

big loss .

The Blowing-Room.

Badly set and badly condit ioned machines,careless and um

Skilfu l workpeople,and i ncompetent administrat ion often cause

much more waste to be made than ought to be . Speaking

generally,the bale breakers

,hopper feeders

,openers

,and scutchers

Should produce veryl i ttle fiy indeed ,these machines and processes

being concerned in extracting the more glaring and heavy im

p urit ies and undesi rable matter,such as seeds

,sands

,leaf

,stick

,

and other dirt . Every effort Should be exerted to obta in and

work upon the golden mean of extracting the max imum of such

undes irable refuse with the minimum of good fibre . For example,

i t is wel l understood that the broad principle with regard to beater

bars is that i f the spaces between them are too wide,the drop

pings will be too rich or too full of fibre ; the oppos i te extreme

of close Spaces may remedy this evil , but care Should be taken to

g ive the sand,dirt

,and seeds every reasonable Opportunity of

escaping , and not being al lowed to be drawn back again i nto the

c otton by the air currents . In this connexion it is probably one

of the most curious features i n regard to openers and scutchersthat the air current is usual ly permitted to enter mostly through

the very same bars between which most of the impurit ies are

driven . Apparently , i t is glaringly anomalous that we Should

work under such condit ions that the emiss ion of the dirt is

4 COTTON WASTE .

restri cted and checked by the admission of the air required to fil l

the partial vacuum caused by the fan. As a matter of fact th ishas often been noticed

,and our machine makers have often at

tempted to introduce fresh posi t ions for admitt ing the air rather

than at the beater bars . All . experience, however , ind icates that

this is the best point for air admiss ion in Spite of this disadvan

tage , and i t therefore becomes i ncumbent upon all carders and

managers to be sure they have such a well -balanced fan draft or

current of air in each machine that the special requirements are

fulfil l ed to the best advantage . For example,i t may easily

happen in a scutcher that . a fan draft is so weak that the cottonis not brought freely away from the beater to the cages

,and

portions of good fibre are cut by excess ive treatment,or are driven

out as waste : On the other hand,if the air current coming

through the beater bars is too strong it wil l not al low the l ighter

impuri t ies to pass through the bars , and the cotton is not suffi

ciently wel l cleaned . Openers and scutchers should be manipu

lated so that very l ittle waste of any value is extracted at any

stage,except perhaps below the leaf extractor bars

,and yet nearly

all the heavier impurit ies must be taken out before the cotton

leaves the blow- room . Numerous types of grid have been moreor l ess used between the heaters and cages

,but after all these

experiments thin wrought - iron bars, or thicker cast - i ron ones

,

appear to receive far and away the most adoption either as beater

or cage bars,the thin wrought - i ron bars costing more , but prob

ably giving the best resul ts .

Various Kinds of Cotton IVaste Droppings.

At this stage it wi l l be profitable to briefly describe the

various kinds of waste produced in a blowing - room , taking them

in proper sequence or order of occurrence in the mill . The first

droppings or waste taken from the very earl iest stages exhibit an

extremely sandy character . This is the case,for example , with

much of the dirt and waste matter taken from below the bars of

the cleaning portion of the long exhaust feed trunk , whether this

dirt be removed by hand or by the automatic and Slowly movingsel f- cleaning lat tice sometimes fit ted inside these trunks . This is

agai n the case with the dirt taken from below the feed - box of the

hopper bal e breaker . There is scarcely any seed taken out at

this stage , very fine sand or dirt forming the bulk of the weight

THE PRODUCT ION or COTTON WASTE . 5

along with a fa i r proportion of bits of l eaf and st i ck , the whole

being , so to Speak,held together by a

very sma l l percentage of

fibre,which apparently clings to . the dirt , and is taken out there

with . The writer has made close examinat ion of such droppings

or dirt,and apparently the sma l l percentage of fibre extracted at

this poi nt is composed of some long fibres as wel l as Short ones .

Ne i ther in the long exhaust feed trunk ,nor at the feed-box of

the hopper is any definite means made to drive out, beat out, or

pul l out any of the waste or dirt, the latter being Simply al lowed

to fa l l out and pass through bars i n cases where i t is sufficiently

loose from the body of the cot ton . This explai ns why such

a smal l proport ion of seed and such a large proport ion of sand

help to make up the bulk of the waste extracted at this point .

More Open bars and slower passage of the cotton may have some

tendency to extract a higher percentage of impurit ies at this

s tage . It may a lso be poi nted out that pass ing the cotton through

a bale Opener or a lat t ice feeder prior to its passage through the

long exhaust feed - trunk,will not only enable the cotton to pass

more easi ly along the trunk,but also Open the cotton sufficiently

to facili tate the fal l ing out of the dirt in the trunk . From under

neath the inclined spiked lattice of the bale breaker may be

g athered a smal l percentage of the smal lest sand and d irt,con

tain ing possibly even - a lower proportion of fibre than'

that from

beneath the feed-box bars of the same machine .

Waste from Crighton Opener with Hopper Feeder.

From beneath the bars -oi the del ivery box or stripper rol ler of

the hOpper feeder a certa in amount of waste.

may be gathered

whi ch conta ins more seed and fibre than any waste made at anyprevious point . Natural ly the amount of sand dropped at the

hOpper feeder is much less than from the bale breaker .

I t is wel l known that it has long been the cus tom to apply a

smal l porcupine beater to the feed part of a vertical Crighton

Opener in order to prepare the cotton for obta in ing the ful l benefi t

of the cleaning and Open ing act ions of the vertica l bea ter .

Beneath this smal l porcupine beater are placed transverse grate

bars,and a fa ir proport ion of undes irable matter is extracted at

this point . It usual ly conta ins a percentage of all the impurities

p resent i n raw cotton, such as sand

,l eaf

,seed

,and Short fibre ,

6 COTTON WA STE .

but compared with the droppings beneath a blade beater conta ins

fewer seeds , a l though quite as much fibre .

From the large d i rt chamber surrounding the vertical beater

i tself we naturally obta i n a compara tively large proportion ofundes i rable matter of all . descriptions usual ly present

,but here

agai n we may usua l ly not e a l ower proportion of seeds ,and

perhaps a higher proport ion of sand,as compared wi th the blade

beater . The blade beate r apparently possesses the property of

driving out the heavier substances,such as seeds

,better than the

steel kn ives of the porcupine or Crighton . Natural ly a great

proportion of sand and dirt has already escaped when the cotton

reaches the blade beater,and hence the droppings from beneath

the grate bars of the blade beater appear whiter and more ful l ofseed than the dropp ings from the larger beater .

The grate bars surrounding a large Crighton beater are made

of different shapes as per requ irements . As a mat ter of first cost ,the cheapest bars are those cast i n sections , which can be readi ly

put i n place or taken out agai n . The -

a lterna tive thin wrought

i ron bars take a good dea l of handling,but there are people who

i ns ist on having them . The section cast - i ron bars are made

with sma ll er apertures and thicker metal facings between the

apertures when it is required to restr i ct the amount of waste

extracted at this point,the thickest meta l and smal lest holes

be ing used in cases where the Crighton is used for the re- treat

ment of cotton waste . While referring to the different k inds ofwaste extracted from a C righton Opener and scutcher combined

we may say that i t is becoming the practice to use 24 i nch

diameter porcupine cyl i nder instead of 16 i nch diameter , as

was formerly the case .

Switcher Dropp ings.

AS before stated,the droppings from beneath the blade beater

of a scutcher present a contrast to any other waste in respect of

conta ining such a large proportion of seed , this being true e ither

of the finisher,the intermediate scutcher

,or when a blade beate r

forms part of an Opener combinat ion .

In the writer’s Opinion the blow of a blade beater is more

searching than tha t of any other form ,and certa i n ly more than

the 4 - i nch knife or blade,now almost universal ly adopted on the

large cyl inders of Openers . At the same time there is l itt l e doubt

8 COTTON WASTE .

wrought- iron ones . If la id traversely across the machine there is

perhaps a better chance for these bars to scrape out the sand ,but

some people prefer them to be la id at right angles to the cages ,or paral lel with the s ides of the machine

,this at any rate be ing

the contrary method adopted for the beater bars .

Formerly,instead of these stat ionary leaf bars

,Messrs . Crigh

ton used a very slowly travers ing lattice,and this travel l ing latt ice

is now appl ied often by a well -known machine firm beneath the

ord inary bars , and additional thereto . The obj ect of this travel ling

lattice is to dispense with the necess ity for dropping the door

every two hours or so,Since the dirt dropped on top of the lattice ,

drops off and upon the floor as the latti ce creeps slowly round .

L icher- in Fly.

There is a close resemblance between the droppings gathered

from beneath the l i cker - in of a card i-ng engine and that gathered

from the var ious pos i t ions of an Opener or scutcher . As a matter

of fact , the l icker- in may be described as the beater of a card,

and more especial ly so s ince the metal lic taker - in displaced theold l eather covered taker- in . Proportionate to the total we ight of

waste extracted at this point,there is more fly or waste fibre than

sand , leaf , or seed,as compared with the opener or scutcher waste

,

and probably the chief explanation of this point l ies i n the fact

that the vast bulk of all the impurit ies has a lready been driven

out in the blowing- room machinery . Beneath the l icker- in is the

final pos i tion in cotton - spinning machinery at which we may ex

peot to find any quant i ty of sand or seed,or other heavy impurit ies

,

a l though the tota l we ight or percentage of waste made at thispoint is a lmost always less than tha t extracted by the flats .

E ither flat strips or cyl inder strips contai n an infinitely smal ler

proportion of sand , leaf, or other impuri ti es than l icker- in drop

pings , while at the same time there is a much greater proport ionof fly or fibre in the former . Licker- in droppings

,when good

undercasings with close bars are used,are not real ly of very much

more va lue in waste Spinning than are some of the wastes from

the scutcher . On the contrary,the other wastes of a card

,

whether they be card front fly or any of the strippings,are of

considerable va lue in waste Spinning,as waste goes .

Thirty or more years ago ,before the device of Joseph Bennett

,

of Whitfield , G lossop ,began to be applied to carding engines

,i.e .

THE PRODUCT ION OF COTTON WASTE . 9

the feed plate , along with the metal l ic taker - in ,i t was customary

to a l low all the droppings from the l icker-in free Scope to fal l on

the floor,and not to prevent this by undercasings ; and in those

days l icker- in fly was of far more value for the purposes of waste

spinning than it is at present .

If we examine a card back full of waste we Shal l find the upper

portions reasonably fibrous , with the bottom portions ful l of theheavier impurit ies .

The BeaterBars of Op eners and Scutchers.

Probably no part of an Opener or scutcher for cleaning and

opening cotton has been more the subj ect of discuss ion and in

vention than the grate bars beneath the scutcher bea ter and

beneath the first portion of a horizonta l opener beater . Thenumber of bars to be Used

,the exact shape of these bars

,the ex

a ct angle Of the bars,their distance apart from each other

,and

their distance from the path of the beater have been frequent

points of discussion,and many arrangements have been experi

mented with .

A question one may reasonably ask is , Why have comparativelythick cast - i ron bars been so often preferred In place of thinner

bars of better materia l ? It is a matter of fact that scores of blowing

- room machines have recent ly been fit ted with thin steel barsbeneath the beater

,such bars having originated abroad

,and brought

all the way to our Lancashire mills . The pract ice in such a caseis to take out the exist ing bars beneath the bea ter

,place a spiked

comb bar next to the feed rol ler,and follow this by possibly

fourteen or more thin steel bars on a scutcher or a greater numberon an Opener . The comb bar may have poss ibly one row of spikesfor Sea Islands

,two rows for Egyptian ,

and four rows for othercotton (see fig . 1

,p .

There can be no doubt that the introduction of these patent

bars has frequently led to extra cleaning of the cotton when thesame has been of a somewhat dirty character . Specia l packingsare used at the ends of these bars to give them a sui table angle

,

and there are one or two little specia l deta i ls of arrangement .Apart from all this one is led

,to ask— Why have our E ngl ish

spinners not insisted on thin steel beater bars being supplied byour machine makers

,instead of the comparat ively clumsy thick

ones we often find in use? We are inclined to think our spinners

10 COTTON WASTE .

would have been will ing to pay the extra cost if they had realized

the extra benefit resul ting from having more cleaning edges in

the same space , and yet better Openings for the dirt to escape .

I t may be laid down in a general statement that What we

want in beater bars is the provision of the maximum number of

cleaning bars,the best shape and angle of bars for permitting the

escape of the droppings, and for permitting the air to enter for

the fan draft,without also permitting any re -drawing- in of the

dirt and undesi rable matter . Thick bars do not lend them

selves to the best attainment of these desi rable features , especial ly

when used in the very l imited space ava i lable between the feed

rollers and bottom of the beater chamber in connexion w ith a

double or treble -bladed scutcher beater . If cotton is to be per

manently at a higher level of price— then greater attention must

be devoted to beater bars , leaf bars, l icker - in undercasings , flat

stripping plates , and any points which greatly affect the quantityand character of the waste made at the blowing- room and cardingmachinery .

We also want beater bars so fi tted i nto position that i t is almost

impossible for the angle or adjustment of the bars to be disturbed

during working,and we are afra id some of our Spinners have

pa id rather too much attention to cutt ing the machine makers

down in price,and too littl e at ten tion to such important points

as these . As a rule a machine maker natural ly likes to make

machines that he can be proud of,but he may as well Shut up

shop if prices do not provide a reasonable profit,and Spinners

should remember such points as these .

An important point to remember is the effect on the air cur

rent of any a l terations i n the bea ter bars,and we are of opin ion

that this particular feature is often overlooked . If the beater

bars of a scutcher are so altered or changed that a greater volume

of air can find its way through the bars , this is bound to exercise

an effect on the air exhaust problem . Cases have occurred where

much trouble has arisen i n this particular direction . We have

never to forget that we have the apparently anomalous procedure

of the chief i ntake of air on a scutcher occurring at the very

beater bars through which the larger proportion of the heavier

impuriti es are expelled by the force of the beater assisted by

gravity . As a matter of fact,the intake of air at th is point is of

material service i n preventing the escape of too much good fibre

THE PRODUCT ION OF COTTON WASTE . 11

along with the undesirable matter . E xperiment has demonstrated

that no better pos it ion for the intake of air has yet been found,

and i t is no haphazard reason that is responsible for the apparent

anomaly .

It is a curious fact— attested to by persons who have watched

the actual occurrence— that some of the l ighter dirt expel led from

the upper bars of an opener or scutcher , has often been attracted

back again i nto the good cotton at the lower bars,and therefore

the angl i ng and adj ustment of the bars Should be such as to

prevent this . In some cases divis ion plates have been introduced

with advantage between the upper and lower portions of the bars ,and this point is perhaps worthy of more at tention

,al though

some firms have discarded the same after trial

I t need hardly be sa id that apart from the kind of bar that is

employed i t wil l usual ly be found the better pract ice to have a

reduced angle and closer bars for the cleaner cottons than for

dirt ier cottons,but after all this usual ly only means taki ng out

one or two bars for the dirt ier cottons,leaving fewer bars to

spread over the same grate-bar area .

Probably the leaf bars between the beater and the cages are

of less importance than the beater bars , but even these have been

the subj ect of much exper iment i n regard to shape and sett ing ,al though after all a favour ite type is the thin straight bar.

The Schaelibaam Bars .

Referring to the figure,which represents the arrangement

complete , i t wil l be observed that the cotton is drawn by means

of the pedal B and feed - rol ler A to the beater D,which lat ter

revolves at the usual h igh speed . The cotton is pressed agai nst

the beater and taken away by the frict ion set up . I t is asserted

that by this means the cotton is not subjected to a sharp blow ,

because of the rapidity with which the beater arms fol low each

other . The fric t ion thus set up electr ica l ly excites the fibres,

and causes them to form into curls or coi ls . These lat ter are

taken out by the comb E,which is fixed underneath the pedals

B , the pressure of the beater causing the fibres to pass rapidly

through the points thereof ; and to ensure this work be ing done

thoroughly,the comb is made i n one piece . Connected with this

comb is an angle - i ron F,which steadies and strengthens the

plate . The catch - edge bars follow immediately after the comb,

12 COTTON WASTE .

and are la id in segmenta l brackets supported from the s ides

of the machine . At the end of the grid a dead~

plate M is fixed ,

which is perforated so as to a l low any l ight dirt to fal l through ;and Ito prevent any draught at this point the Space below is

made air- t ight . Means are also provided for regulat ing the

FIG . 1.—Feed-rol ler. Schaelibaum Bars.

1

draught about the grid , so that the Spaces between the barsare always free for the dirt to pass through Wi thout danger ofthe cotton going a long with it . We may add that the fixing of

the grids to ordinary machi nes is eas i ly done, and need not

i nterfere with the ordinary mill arrangements .

Testing for Waste.

I t is important i n a Spinning mil l that the exact weight ofc otton passed through the various processes should be reasonably

well recorded . The weighing of all finisher scutcher laps affordsi n a way one method of total l ing up the weights , but i t is nota customary thing to weigh the cotton at different stages such as

cards , combers , draw- frames , and fly- frames,as this would be a

.

1 The reader is referred to Messrs . Dobson Barlow’s 1919 arrangement

o f beater bars as shown in the appendix . In this case the bars are extendedto the first ha lf of up - stroke.

THE PRODUCT ION OF COTTON WA STE . 13

very troublesome thing to do . Dependence rather is placed upon

testing for waste in the blow-room,at

,the cards

,and at the

combers . A lso upon the calculat ion of weights put through

based upon the readings of the indicators at the various bobbin

and fly- frames .

Fi ner the counts of yarn spun ,lower the weights put through ,

and more highly priced the raw cotton and Spun yarn becomeand the more l ikely wil l it be for intermediate weighings of

material to be profitable . Comparisons of weight of cotton used ,and weight of yarn obta i ned from spindle point

,extended over a

suitable period of time,afford a proper indicat ion of the percent

age of waste over all. The was te returned from any set of

machines may afford a method of test ing the waste per cent

local ly .

Calculations on Waste per Cent.

On numerous occasions the writer has been writ ten to and

spoken to with regard to difficult ies connected with percentage

problems . Two or three calculations are given below which will

exemplify one sect ion of such problems . It is in waste and wages

calculat ions these points become of most importance . In actua l

p ractice in Sp inning mills i t is a more or less frequent occurrenceto thoroughly clean the openers

,scutchers

,and cards

,and to pass

a certai n weight of new cotton through the same in order to as

certa in the amount of wastage due to droppings and i nvisible loss .

Case I .

100 lb . weight of new cotton is passed through the Opener ,scutcher

,and card

,and there is a loss of 4 per cent i n the opener ,

2 per cent in the scutcher,and 6 per cent in the card . Find the

loss i n lb . weight at each stage,and a lso the tota l loss per cent .

1. In the first operat ion it is clear that 100 lb . lose 4 lb .,s ince

this equa ls 4 per cent .

2. In the scutcher,however

,2 per cent loss does not mean

j ust 2 lb . s i nce 96 lb . lose 2 per cen t .

If 96 lb . lose 2 per cent,what wil l be the loss i n lb . weight ?

96 x 2

100

3 . At the carding engine we pass through 96 lb . less 19 2

940 8 lb .,and this l oses 6 per cent . What is the lb . loss 9

19 2 lb .

14 COTTON WA STE .

To restate the case we say : If 100 lb . lose 6 lh. ,what Wi l l

94 08 lose94 08 x 6

100

4 . We have a tota l loss in lb . as shown below

40 lb . at opener .

19 2 lb . at scutcher .

lb . at card .

lb .

lb .

We are now in a pos it ion to Show where the apparent anomaly

occurs that is often a l it tle perplexing to students and mill men .

By the terms of the quest ion we lose al together 12 per cent, and i f

we start with 100 lb . and lose 12 per cent we should lose 12 lb .

But we have shown that only lb . are lost . How is th is ?The answer Simply is that per cent loss is not equal to lb . loss

in actua l figures at scutcher and card . Take the card in part ien

lar. Six per cent is lost here,but clearly this is not 6 lb . but only

a l it t le over 571 lb . If 50 lb . lost 10 per cent i t would not be 10 lb .

,

but only 5 lb . In this example,therefore

,we have the percent

age figure greater than the actual lb . loss . It is not 100 lb .

which lose 12 per cent i n one Operation,Since the 6 per cent loss

at card is only los t on 94 08 lb . ,which is practi cal ly 6 lb . less

than 100.

Case II .

The pos i t ion may be stated by a second example which st i llmore nearly approaches actua l m i l l practice , and is probably a l ittle

more difficult to understand . Suppose 100 lb . of raw cotton be

passed through the opener , scutcher , and card , and losses are deter

mined as fol lows : Opener 4 lb . ,scutcher 2 lb . ,

card 5 lb . Whatis the per cen t loss i n each case , and what is the total loss per

cent ?

1. Si nce at the Opener 100 lb . lose 4 lh.,this is clearly 4 per

cent .2. At the scutcher 96 lb . lose 2 lh. , what is the per cent loss ?

100 x 2

96

3 . By the t ime the cotton reaches the card it has lost 6 lb

and therefore 94 lb . are put through the card , and lose 5 lb . in

2 08 per cent .

16 COTTON WA STE .

4 . At the later processes 775 2 lb . lose 4 per cent .

Tr

ig;4

lb . loss .

The tota l losses i n lb . and per cent are shown below

Per Cent . Lb .

5 5

38

136 8

28 per cent . 25 58 lb .

The question natural ly asked is : We start with 100 lb . and

finish with 74 42 lh.,so how can weIlose 28 per cent ? The whole

explanati on of all these cases rests on the fact that the losses in all

i ntermediate stages are not made on 100 lb . weight , but on some

thing less .

Summary of Wastes.

In a part icular case the fol lowing deta iled and tabulated l ist of

wastes from the various parts of a card was obtained from good

American cotton

Cylinder and doffer strips per cent .Li cker- in fly

Cylinder fly ‘3

Card -box fly 2

Feed - roller waste,etc . 6

Flat strips 2 3

Total 60

This is a rather larger percentage than IS l often extracted from

American cotton at the carding engine . In the case of cardedE gyptian , however , the percentages often range higher than theabove , and the fol lowing is given as an actual example enteringi nto the write r’s own experience

Cylinder and doffer strips 19 per cent .Fly from beneath taker - inFly from beneath cyl inder '2

Fly from beneath card -box ‘3

Waste from clearer at feed- rol ler,etc .

‘7

Strips from the flats 30

Total

THE PRODUCT ION or COTTON WASTE . 17

In these examples no account is taken of invis ible loss .

It wil l not be out of place at this point a lso to give some idea

of the proport ions of waste of the different sorts to be found in all

departments of a mil l ; and aga i n it wil l be done best by giving an

actual example The waste from the blowmg r- oom may come

under the genera l term of droppings,and all of the vis ibl e waste

i n the case under notice total led 3 9,while i n addit ion them was

an i nvisible loss of 1 1 per cent . At the carding engine the total

str ips from the flats was 2 8 per cent,and all other card waste

came to 3 4 per cent . Combers were not used in this part icular

case,so that no machine after the card made any great weight or

per cent of waste . The summary will be best indicated in tabular

form,as belOW ‘

Blowing-room visible waste

B lowing room i nvisible loss

Flat strips

Other wastes from cards

Tota l amount of bobbin wasteTota l amount of clearer waste

,i nc luding under

clearer of mules

Card - room sweepings

O i ly waste and spinning- room sweepings

Various other i tems

Total

I t must not be taken that the foregoing classificat ion of the

various kinds of waste is adopted by all firms,as the system var i es

somewhat with differen t firms . Bad cotton,high Speeds

,careless

or unskil ful operat ives,dry

,frosty weather

,the preva lence of dry

east winds,machinery out of order

,and other ci rcumstances

,al

ways tend to i ncrease the percentages of wastes,while the opposi te

condit ions tend to reduce the amount of waste below what may be

taken as a fai r average . In cases where a spinning firm a lso winds

or reels the yarn there is the further i tem of reelers’

or winders ’

waste to be considered,and this often is no mean cons iderat ion

,

as the yarn having reached this stage has had all the money spen t

on it,and yet waste yarn wil l not command as good a price as the

best card - room wastes .

18 COTTON WASTE .

Carding Engine Waste.

Revert ing briefly to the special subject of waste produced at

the carding engine,we may note that this machine is the most

prol ific in the making of waste of any machine in the mill , provid

i ng the comber is not used . The waste of a carding engine over

all general ly ranges between the l imits of about 4 per cent and 8

per cent , but , of course , about 18 or 20 per cent of Waste is taken

a s a good bas is for a Heilmann comber .

L i cker- in droppings are qu i te dirty,and often riva l some of the

wastes or droppings extracted at the Opener or scutche r , but all

other waste from this point onwards contains only a sma l l propor

t ion of the worst impurit ies,such as sand , seed, leaf, or motes .

E ven the flat strippings and the cyl inder and doffer strippings

of the card,as well as the fly

,cons ist for the most part of fibre

which is mos t useful for one purpose or another afterwards .

Card Strip s .

Broadly speaking,the waste from a card ing engine is divis ible

into two chief parts,fly and strips . Str ips are the wastes that are

posi t ively stripped or pul led from the fine Wi re teeth of cyl inder,

doffer,and flats by the aid of specia l mechan ism . The term “ fly ”

comprises pract i cal ly all the waste of a card that is dr iven off,or

,

so to speak,fl ies off any of the working parts and finds its way

to the floor beneath the back,middle

,or front portions of the

machine . Above we may have given a much fuller divis ion of

the card wastes than just merely fly and str ips . Apart from the

d roppings beneath the l icker - in,which are ful l of motes

,l eaf ,

sand,and other undesirable matter

,the other wastes of a card

p resent a much s imi lar appearance,being composed for the most

part of fibre,which is by no means all of short staple .

Card strips form one of the most important items i n the bus i

ness of a soft cotton waste deal er —i ndeed,the most important

i tem apart from comber waste . It is good usable waste,which

is afterwards cleaned and appl ied to very important uses,being

readily convertible into low counts of yarn,especial ly when

loperated by a proper waste Spinning plant .

There is a very close resemblance between flat strips and

cyl inder or doffer s trips , there being in each case a fai r propor

t ion of motes , leaf, and stick present in the waste,but not very

THE PRODUCT ION OF COTTON WASTE . 19

much sand , as the latter for the most par t drops to the floor,and

readily leaves the cotton when the fibres are so very wel l separated between the feed- roller and the l icker - in

,or between the

licker-in and the cyl inder .

Long Fibre in Flat Strips .

A good proportion of the strips wil l be found to consis t ofshort fibre , and real ly it is short fibre that we want to extract atthis point . As a matter of fact

,however

,i t

. is equally true that a

good proportion of the s trips also consists of a good fibre . The

present writer has - for many years past contended that the card

ing engine was a very imperfect machine in regard to its in

abil ity to sufficiently discriminate between short and long fibre,so

as to reta in the latter while rej ecting the former . There is doubt

less cons iderable truth in the content ion that long fibres adhere

better to the teeth of the cyl inder because of their greater length,

whi le the Shorter ones wil l more readily move from the cyl inder

teeth to those of the fl ats but there is no doubt that much good

fibre also is transferred to the flats , and is then extracted as waste .

In l ike manner many of the short fibres penetrate between the

cylinder t eeth better than the long ones,and are not removed by

the doffer,but rema in to be cleaned off as brush strips ; but it is

only too true that here a lso the action is more or less imperfect,

and many good fibres fol low the same path as these Shorter ones .

That the card is utterly unable to extract the maj or proportion

of the short fibre,whatever the sett ings and working conditions

may be , is proved by the fact that any ordinary Heilmann cotton

comber,with average sett ings and work ing condit ions

,opera t ing

on Egyptian cotton , will extract something l ike 18 per cent or so

of waste— nearly all of i t being short fibre— after the card hasdone its best with the cotton . The t rouble with the card is that

i n making it take out a greater percentage of short fibre,you also

almost invariably make it extract a greater amount of Short fibre .

As regards the flat strips,there are two principal methods of

i ncreasing the percentage of these . In the first place,the speed

of the flats may be increased ,this being usual ly fol lowed by an

immediate increase in the amount of flat strips . I t is well estab

lished that the flats under average conditions will become reason

ably well charged with s trips,however fast they are made to

t raverse,and there is no such law as that faster flats bring out

20 COTTON WASTE .

proportionately thinner strips . For American cotton about two

inches per minute is often used as the speed for flats,and almost

double that for E gyptian,SO that on the average a much greater

weight of flat strips is produced from Egyptian cot ton than from

the same weight of American cotton . The second chief method of

i ncreas ing the weight of flat strips is to move the -upper edge of the

front or stripping plate farther away from the cyl inder . AS a rule

this is a pretty certa i n and very ready method of i nc reasing the

weight of flat s trips,but there is much difference of opinion as to

why this particular effect should be produced . Some effect may

be exercised also upon the flat strips by the - adjustment of theback plate above the l icker - in .

In order to get good clean work from the card,one of the first

essentials is to keep all the wire Sharp,smooth

,and l evel across

,

and also to have the stripping and grinding operat ions regularlyand efficiently a ttended to . If the various working organs of the

machine,such as cyl i nders , flats

,and doffer

,are al lowed to be

come overcharged with dirt and fly,or these parts are set too far

from each other, or the wires are dul l

,the qual i ty of the carding is

bound to suffer proportionately .

The Stripp ing of Fla t Cards.

The revolving flat carding engine has always succeeded in

attracting a good dea l of at tention on the part of inven tors and

practical mi l l men , and there is general ly some patented idea or

other about this card which is at the current moment commanding

the attention of the trade .

Pa tent brushes for clearing the flats and patent combs for aid

ing in the same work have been introduced with a great deal of

success dur ing the last fifteen years or so.

For twenty years or so special form s of mechanism for grinding

flats from their working surfaces have been applied ,and their

relative mer its and demeri ts have been discussed a good deal .

More recently stil l various forms of strap forks for cardingengines have rece ived considerable adoption ,

and these agai n have

been superseded in interest by the question of locking motions for

the front stripping doors of revolving flat cards . The presen t

writer has never known of any other deta i l of mechan ism , or anyform of patented device , that has so rapidly and so extens ively been

made the subject of let ters patent i n connexion with the cotton

THE PRODUCT ION OF COTTON WASTE . 21

t rade than looking motions for the s tripping plates of card

ing engines . The subject has been a burning one for long,

many mills having had as many as hal f a dozen different

motions under trial . If a mil l had forty cards they could nearly

have had a di fferent motion on every individual card if they

had been so disposed,a lthough two or three of these locking

motions apparently s tand out as superior to the greater proportion .

More recently,the attention of .practical carders has been

di rected to the quest ion of removing the dust created durings tripping of cyl inder and doffer at the very moment whensuch

dust is being created,instead of permitting the same to sett l e on

the machines and floors,and into the lungs and nostrils of the

s trippers and grinders .

Removal of Stripp ing Dust.

Perhaps i t is not too much to say that all the above specified

improvements and new devices,patented and otherwise

,are over

shadowed in i nterest by the very latest novel ty of them all i n

connexion with the revolving flat carding engine . The quest ion

of dust removal during stripping is such a very serious one that it

has been the subject of discussion at meetings of the Trades Con

g ress , and questions have been asked in assembled Parl iament on

this particular point . Parl iamentary legislat ion has been made

on this point to reduce the evil . There are severa l devices now

on the market for removing the stripping dust , and a good many

have been more or l ess adopted , although they undoubtedly add

to the apparatus required in the card- room . But the latest

c la imant in this connexion does a good deal more than remove

the dust created by s tripping— it goes in for preventing any such

dust being created .

A mere s tatement of the claims made for the new device for

Stripping flat cards on the vacuum system is a lmost staggering to a

practical carder , and we wil l jus t recap itulate these without in the

s l ightest degree committing ourselves at th is point as to the ad

v isability of adopti ng the same .

Claims for Vacuum System of Stripp ing Cylinders and Dofiers

of Cards .

The cla ims made by Cook Co . for their new stripp ing methodmay be enumerated as follows

22 COTTON WASTE .

The card cyl inders and doffers stripped entirely by suct ionrotary brushes are dispensed with

,and nothing is brought into con

tact with the card wire . Less t ime occupied in stripping cylinders,

con sequently more frequent strippings can be made,thus obtain

ing the best carding condit ions . No stripping brushes . No dust

remova l plant necessary . No door locking motions requ i red .

No damage to card clothing . Longer life of card clothing . A great

saving of t ime i n str ipp ing . No stoppage of cards . A ga i n of 8per cent in production . Better carding . Less waste and l ess labour .

No dang er of acc idents with s trap forks or bel ts when stripping .

Taking item for i tem and going over the l ist and endeavouring

to real i ze what each i tem may mean ,will serve to convince any

one that in this new method of stripping the cylinders and doffers

of carding eng ines we are face to face with a device which contains

great poss ib i l it i es,and whose potential development is at l east ful l

of interest . There are many interests i nvolved i n the adoption of

a device such as this one— some of them mechanica l,some affect

ing the heal th of the workers , some affect ing the amount of labour

and the work of the operat ives , others affect ing the qual ity of the

waste,the qual ity of the work produced

,and last

,but not least

,

the venti lat ion of the room and the cleanl iness of the machinery .

Dust E xtraction and the Wire Clothing of a Card.

I t is to be presumed that a certain amount of dirt and dust is

certa i n to be always found in raw cotton,and i t is scarcely to be

expected that this Should be extracted from the cotton in the mil l

without more or l ess entering the a tmosphere at the mi lls . Natural ly it is i n the earl i er clean ing and opening processes that the dust

makes i tself man i fest,and i t hardly gives any trouble at all i n any

process after the carding engine . Bal e breakers were at first in

stal l ed without fans and dust extractors , but i t was soon found best

to apply these . From one point of view it is remarkable tha t the

blowing- room should be more free from the dust problem than the

card - room,but of course this is readi ly explai ned by the very general

adopt ion of the fan draft pri nciple directly to the machines . One

cannot help but admire the beautiful manner in which the suction or

blowing principle is adopted in an opener or scutcher So as to help

the cotton forward,and a lso to extract the fine dust without the

latter enter ing the atmosphere . I t is not to be wondered at that

i nventors at d ifferent t imes have considered the applicat ion of the

24 COTTON WA STE .

for themse lves in respect of the desirabil i ty of immediately apply

ing any such sys tem,h aving regard to all the circumstances

of the case . At any rate , we cannot be wrong in ca l l ing attention

to this new stripping method,and i n giving some sort of explana

t ion of its cons truction , objects,and opera tion . So far as the

writer is aware a stripping brush of one sort or another hasbeen regarded as the most essential apparatus i n regard to cyl inder

and doffer stripping Si nce the earl iest days of cotton spinning .

Thi s new system,however

,revolutionizes the str ipping operation

,

i nasmuch as the brush is practical ly done away with,and this

carries with it several poss ible advan tages apart from prompt re

moval of the dust and loose bits of fibre so often found in the

neighbourhood of carding engines . In various ways during recent

years we have become more or l ess familiar with the principle of

cleaning by high -pressure vacuum,and i n this connexion reference

is made to the use of Booth’

s patents forvacuum cleaning in textile

factories . Briefly described,i t may be said that for the purposes

of stripping the cylinder or doffer a nozzle is traversed across the

face of the cylinders or doffer— as the case may be— and a sufficiently

powerful in rush of air is obta ined from a high -pressure air pump,

so that str ips , dust , dirt , l eaf, portions of seed,or other usua l

const ituent parts of the card strippings are drawn into the nozzle .

The dust and strippings are drawn through iron piping to a suitable

receptacle i n an effective manner .

I t is well known that factory inspectors have two specia l

features i n view in respect of cotton carding engines at the present

moment : (1) To Secure the appl ication locking motions for the

front or stripping doors . (2) To secure better atmospheric condi

t ion s by e ffect ive and prompt remova l of the dust created in theoperat ions . I t is a Singular fact that this appara tus atta ins bothobjects in a manner ha l f incidenta l and quite in addit ion to the

performance of the stripping operat ion by air current instead of

by re volving brush .

Take,for example

,the stripping of the cyl inder which is done

from the back or feed of the card by the vacuum system ,so that

the front s tripping door is not needed,and may be screwed fast

by set Screws which would not be touched at all for Supplyingpurposes . We understand that this meets all the requ irements of

the factory inspectors in this particular d irection .

From the receiving chamber a ma in pipe of 142 in . diameter is

THE PRODUCT ION OF COTTON WASTE . 25

run into the card - room and adjacent

quired on the ceil ing, on the floor

,

the room below the card - room . In

s ion pipes are coupled to the ma in piping ,to

a flexible tube is connected,the other being

cylinder or doffer nozzle on the card during

cyl inder nozzle is a permanent feature of every carding engine ,and is mounted on a suitable traversing mechanism

,somewhat

a fter the principle of the Horsfa l l . The point or mouth of thenozzle is made to run along a narrow Slot ~

cut in the fixed back

plate of the carding eng ine . Specia l brackets are used to receivethe cyl inder nozzle mechanism

,but for the doffer nozzle the

usual grinding brackets may be uti l i zed . The doffer nozzle is

made to operate above the doffer comb on tOp of the doffer , and

this is clearly the best position in every way, because there is

l i t tle cotton at this posi t ion of the doffer .

As regards the stripping action on the cyl inder , this occurs

above the licker- in at the point where the cotton fibres are pass ing

a long from licker- in to doffer,and this is obviously not without

its disadvantages . The writer,however

,was informed that after

repeated tria ls above and below the l icker- in , the higher posi t ion

was found to be distinctly the better,all points cons idered . The

mechanism of the doffer nozzle is portable— unlike that for the

cylinder— and may be carried from card to card . In both cases

revolution and traverse are obta ined from a 1‘ope pulley driven

from a conven ient pulley on the card. Each nozzle is fixed so

that the mouth is about T1

?in . away from the wire of the card ,

or a sufficient distance to ensure that no actua l Contact is made

with the wire . This removes the danger of poss ible injury tothe wire by repeated contact of wire of stripping brush with wire

o f card .

1

Briefly put , the constituent parts of the mechanism consist

of Su itable rope pul leys and brackets,nozzles with traversing

a rrangements , flexible tubing,i ron piping

,an air- t ight iron cylin

der for receiving and reta ining the strips , and finally an air

pump . The pump is of the high -pressure type, Contain ing fast

and loose pulleys , and can be fixed in any convenient part of the

mill where there is a driving shaft making at least 100 revolutions

1Writing in August , 1919 , it may be sa id that war effects and labour cond it ions appear to have favoured the adopt ion of this system .

26 COTTON WASTE .

per minute . If used for clean ing as well as stripping the pump

might be working practical ly all day,but if for stripping only

,then

only intermittent use would be required .

The receiving chamber is a large iron receptacle,possibly

10 ft . high by 3 ft . 6 i n . diameter,made air- t ight

,and with a

suitable door for cleaning out the strips as required . Fi ltering

arrangements are used to prevent the dust fibre,etc .

,from getting

into the pump cyl inders,there being a pipe connexion from the

pump to the air- tight chamber . The pump and receiving chamber

will probably in most cases be found near together,but this

is not an essent ia l feature,and the receiving chamber can be

placed in any posit ion suitable for the deposit ion of the strips .

I t is poss ible to use as many as three cyl inder nozzles or two

for the doffers at the same time,the other suction pipes being

wel l seal ed up for the moment by taper rubber plugs . All of the

matter const ituting the strips may be drawn through the nozzles

and pipes with the cards running ful l Speed,and i t is cla imed that

even in s tripping the cyl inder the amount of good cotton taken

with the strips is so very smal l as to be practically a negligible

quantity,figures being given to support this view . Wi th doffers ,

of course , there is no quest ion of taking good fibre through the

pipes owing to stripping above the comb . In cases of fine Spin

ning and high qual i t ies of yarn,i f there was any fear of good cotton

going through when stripping the cyl inder the side shaft could be

put out of gear wi thout putting the ma in driving belt on the loose

pulley .

The Front Plate of the Carding E ngine.

There can be no doubt that the question as to why mov

ing the top edge of the front or stripping plate farther from the

cyl inder causes more flat str ips can be argued from various points .

of view,and most people who have considered the mat ter will

concede the poi nt to be a somewhat puzzling one .

There are many men who may be rightly deemed shin ingl ights in the cotton - Spinning business

,either from a theoretical

or practical standpoint,who frankly admi t they are by no means.

entirely sat isfied as to the exact reason for the resul t produced

I t is not because they are short of ideas on the subj ect , nor is i t

because they have not made observations and experiments touch

ing this point,but rather because results vary , and objections

can be urged aga inst any theory or explanation yet advanced .

THE PRODUCT ION OF COTTON WA STE . 27

It is probable that factors which enter into this problem are

(1) centrifugal force , (2) air currents , (3) the adjustment and con

dit ion of such parts as the flats and back plate (4) the bitebetween the front plate and the cyl inder or “ the nip

One argument put forward to expla i n why setting front plate

farther from cyl inder causes more flat strips may be explained as

follows If the top edge of front plate is put closer to cyl inder it

breaks up the air current better that is lying close to the cyl inder

and taken along with it . By thus breaking up the air current

the fibres of cotton have a better tendency to stand out from the

cylinder and can be taken from the doffer better by the cylinder .

The net result is that the cylinder is kept cleaner,the cotton

penetrates and sticks to the cyl inder Wire better , so that l ess is

taken off the cyl inder by the flats,thus reducing the flat strips.

At any rate , this theory possesses the merit of greater novelty

than some others,but the present writer must not be understood

to commit himself to a bel ief i n its correctness . Presumably its

correctness would need to be Shown by the amount of cylinder

strips also becoming less,and i t is doubtfu l whether two or three

days’

testing of the same would Show any appreciable difference .

Some good men consider that air currents have more to do

with this problem than has centrifugal force,but there are other

quite as good men who cons ider centrifuga l force to bg the lead

ing factor in the problem,and stil l others ho contend against

both theories .

A second possible explanat ion has been offered as follows :

There is always a tendency for a quickly revolving body to throw

off anything that may be upon its surface owing to the effects of

centrifugal force . This being so,there must be a tendency for the

cyl inder to throw off the fibre that it carries from taker - in to

doffer,a tendency which is more or less resisted by the back and

front plates and also by the flats them se lves . If the front plate

is set farther away at its top edge it permits this tendency to be

developed more strongly at the final point of contact surfaces,

and hence the flats succeed in bringing away more fibre as waste .

Agai nst this explanat ion is that the flats are charged with fibre

from the very commencement,and therefore do not thus take

away the extra fibre as suggested . Moreover,a very closely set

front plate can in some cases be made to almost prevent flat strips

altogether , although by taking flats out over the cyl inder it can

28 COTTON WASTE .

be proved that they are charged with fibre at that point . Accord

ing to this argument,therefore

,i t is easy to answer the statement

that a wide setting permits fibres to leave the cyl inder for the

flats by asking ,How can this be so when the flats are al ready

charged prior to reaching this point .

Other reasoning and explanat ions upon this point are connected

with the question of external air currents affect ing the fibres at

the front plate,also air that may enter at the sides of the machine .

It has been argued that when air gets in at the s ides of the card ,

i t is attracted by the cyl inder,and may affect the edges of the

fleece of cotton more especial ly . Cases have occurred in which a

front plate which refused to permit strips to be made on one card

g ave qui te sat isfactory results when transferred to another card .

In many cases the flat strips have been appreciably affected by

a l terat ions to the back plate .

Communications on the Front Pla te Question,sent to the Author.

(1) Front Plate of Carding Engine— I Should be glad to have

the question of front plate of carding engine discussed ,and here

with I contribute my quota . I have been personally connected

with a fa i r amount of experimenting on this question as to the

effect of front plate on the flat strips . In a certa in case therewas a card which gave a great dea l of trouble with the weight of

strips,and although I put the plate to practica l ly touch the cylinder ,

the strips came out a ltogether too thick,and no amount of humour

ing the front plate wou ld stop this . We did not find the law to

apply that sett ing the front plate closer reduced the strips i n this

case . Being determined ,if possibl e

,to get at the root of this

matter , an experienced fitter was put on the job for about threedays , and he altered and tested front plate i n various ways

,

blocking up air passages,putting a strip of wood and i ron across

the plate to prevent air from getting in ,but st il l no change was

made i n the strips,and the fitter went away . Afterwards I did

my best i n the matter,and

,s ingular to say,

I found i n this caseat least i t was ne ither the front nor the back plate that was

wrong ,but the cyl inder . I bel ieve i f the cyl inder had been

c orrect the front plate would have acted properly . This leadsme to another version of what causes the flat strips to be a ltered

in thickness besides what you have put i n your article,and I am

obliged to use the word“suction

,as contain ing the explanation .

THE PRODUCT ION OF COTTON WASTE . 29

The flats are loaded with fibres as l ong as they remain on the

cyl i nder . Immediately they leave the cyl inder the fibres on the

flats come under some influence which draws them more or lessfrom the flat wire to the cyl inder wire . This we can prove by

putting the front pla te so close as to have flats coming out bareof any strips and loading the cyl inder . Does not this prove thatcentri fugal force of itself does not affect flat strips? My poin t isthis : The front plate

,assisted poss ibly by centrifugal force

,acts

as a suction plate . We have a current of air generated by thecyl inder

,we have a plate which we put closer to the current of

air,and by this means ob ta in more suct ion— if I may use the

word— of strips from the flats . If we get a perfectly cove redcylinder

,and perfectly covered flats

,and a perfect plate —prac

t ically speaking,I mean— the drawing power is strong enough t o

clean the flats of all fibres . This is only one of the points affect

ing the front plate and flat strips .

Front Plate of Carding Engine — D oes the setting of fron t

plate affect the qual ity of the strips from the card ? One of yourcorrespondents says No

,but I think 99 per cent of carders will

think otherw ise . All prac ical experience proves that the posit ion

of front plate does afiect the quantity of strips . But how ? This

IS what we want to get at. I believe that centrifuga l force and

air current explanat ions are all off. We cannot get ins ide a cardto see i t work ,

and i n my Opinion there is no need if we grasp theessential condit ions that prevai l . What are these condit ions ?

1st. A revolving cyl inder covered w.th card wire with the businesspoint of the card tooth leading . 2nd. Flats over the top of the

cyl inder,also covered with card wire , but the bus iness points of

the card teeth in the Oppos i te direction to the wire on the cyl inder .

3rd . N ext we have the cotton fibres c rrried forward by the cyl inder

card teeth against the oppos it ion of the flat card teeth . The

cylinder wire is therefore the comber and the flat wire the reta iner .

Now,when the flat is l eaving the cyl inder the fibres in the flat

are being combed forward by the cyl inder card teeth,and the

fibres come in contact with the front plate . Now,i f you set your

plate an inch away from the cyl inder there wil l be no bite between

the plate and the cyl inder wire but set your plate close and then

you get a keen bite . This bite contIols the amount of flat strips

One of your correspondents says he has seen cards i n which the

al teration of the front plate did not affect the strips . May I point .

30 COTTON WASTE .

out that in such a case the flat when leaving the cyl inder is not

near enough to the point of the front plate . On most cards this

c an be a l tered by dropping the brackets tha t carry the front flat

Shaft .1

Holland’

s Web- Conductor for Carding Engines.

This appears to have been applied to cotton cards since about

1870 or sooner,and is a most excel lent l ittle device now universal ly

adopted ,although it would appear the inventor did not patent

the arrangement or derive materia l benefit from it .

I t cons ists of a very smooth flat plate,held by one or two

s tuds possibly 24, in . or so i n front of the mouth of the trumpet .It forms a guide plate for the fine web of cotton before the

lat ter enters the trumpet . The web - conductor is grooved at the

outer port ions but ra ised in the centre,and helps great ly in c sllect

ing the loose web into a more condensed order before the cotton

is formed into a Sl iver at the trumpet .

The conduct ing pla te has a very excellent effect in keepingthe selvedges of the web in condition

,and thus restricts the amount

of waste and the number of slubs formed at this particular part

O f a card . The conductor has a good effect in gathering in the

loose fibres of,the web and prevent ing waste in any part of the

web .

Very light selvedge guides of a somewhat s imilar shape have

been often used,or draw- frames between the rol lers with good

effect on the sl iver .

Selvedge guides are used in severa l posit ions on the draw- frame

and lap machine , or r ibbon machine,in order to prevent exces

s ive i ncrease in the lap width ,with accompanying bad selvedges

and was te .

Hand-cards.

Nearly forty years ago a wel l -known authori ty on cotton

Spinning wrote as fol lows :

Formerly cyl inders were stripped by hand with what is termed

a hand - card,which is a board with a handle about hal f the width

of the cyl inder and having a piece of card sheet na i led to it .This is sti l l used to some extent and has a pernicious effect

1The author does not commit himself either for or aga inst the aboveprinciples .

32 COTTON WASTE .

Comber lVaste.

I t is well known that comber waste is a very important i tem

indeed in mil ls which go i n for the production of real ly good

combed yarns . Wh en i t is remembered that with s ingle combingal one as much as 20 per cent of the total cotton supplied to the

combers may be rej ected as waste —stuff for which cons iderablepence per pound may have been pa id i n days of high prices

an idea may be formed of the cost and importance of this sub

ject.

I t is wel l known also that the draw and lap

'

machine —or

ribbon machine— is an optional machine for use in front of the

comber instead of a Special draw - frame for the purpose . Unti l

a few years ago the amount of adoption of the r ibbon machine

scarcely appeared to warran t its i ntroduction a matter of possibly

thirty years ago. During the last few years,however

,this machine

has very rapidly increased in public acceptance,and there is l i tt le

doubt that the extens ive adoption of the Nasmith and Heilmann

combers , requiring wide heavy caps , has exercised an important.

influence in this direction .

Grant ing that the use of the ribbon machine diminishes the

per cent of good fibre extracted as waste at the comber,may we

not a lso suggest that i n days of high -pri ced cotton the argu

ment for using the ribbon machine instead of the Specia l draw

frame possesses additional force Since the perservation amongst

the good sl ivers of 100 lb . of extra fibre , costing a high price per

pound,means so much more than 100 lb . at a lower cost . Items

such as these are sufficient to turn the scal e i n cases of machines

which are wavering i n publi c estima t ion,as the r ibbon machine

was for a number of years .

The D isposal of the Comber Waste.

The most orthodox arrang ement for dispos ing of the waste at

the machine has been to have rectangular boxes placed on the

floor behind the machine,each box serving for two heads , and the

was te being simply dropped from the doffer combs i nto the t ins .

At regular intervals the waste may be pressed down into the

boxes to prevent too rapid overfilling , and possible danger of

some of the waste being taken back into the machine .

Mr. Sylvanus Anderton— well known in cotton- spinning cir

THE PRODUCTION OF COTTON WA STE . 33

cles in the Bol ton district as an expert on combers— some time

ago devised a neat l i t tle t in arrangement fit ted near the doffer‘

,

which helps to keep the comber noi l down in the proper recep

tacle,and g reatly diminishes the risk of any of the waste touching

the doffer and being .carried back into the range of the pr incipa l

acting organs of the comber .

The most ambitious and most revolutionary arrangement of

recent years,however

,i n regard to the disposa l of the comber

waste,cons ists in the application of what is known as Roth

s

patent aspirator,upon the adaptation of Which eminent ma

chinists have expended a good dea l of t ime,Skil l

,and money .

The well -known doffers,covered with strong wire in a leather

foundation,and also the doffer combs

,are entirely dispensed with .

An arrangement is fit ted which possesses points of resemblance

to those employed on Openers and scutchers for disposing of

the air and fine dust . The removal of the waste is effected by

a current of air. The combing cylinders and qiiickly revolving

brushes for cleaning the cylinder needles of all the waste material

rema in as before,but the combing cylinder and brush for

each head are partial ly enclosed with a special casing,and the

waste thrown off from each head is deposited upon the perforated

portion of a cyl inder . In other words,the casings have com

munication with a cylindrical fil tering screen which extends the

whole length of the machine,from the Centre of which it has

communication with the forced draught apparatus . The air duct .

placed at the back of the machine is connected with an exhaust .

fan . The successful accomplishment of this particular idea Should

remove an eyesore from the cotton combers,should keep the

combers cleaner,should quite obviate the smal ler troubles

,such

as waste picking up again into the machine,and ought to leave

the work if anything cleaner . I t rema i ns to be seen how much

this device wil l be adopted .

Below is reproduced,by kind permission of the lecturer , a good

proportion of a l ecture recently del ivered at the Bol ton and

Manchester Technical Schools,by Mr. Norman Jones

,Examiner

i n Cotton Spinning to the C ity of Guilds of London Insti tute .

In this lecture many poin ts affecting the production and

regulation of cotton waste are admirably treated,i n so far as Sea

Islands and good Egyptian cottons are concerned in the blowroom and carding engines .

84 COTTON WASTE .

Lecture.

We have now to consider the second important feature of themachine

,v iz . its cleans ing efliciency and the factors affect ing it ,

which are chiefly : (I ) the relat ive areas of the cyl inder and that

portion of its circumference which is occupied by the grid bars

and hood respectively ; (2) the number , section,angular setting

and spacing of the grid bars ; and (3) the establishment of the

correct rat io which must be maintained between the induced air

currents generated by the fan and the veloci ty of the blow given

to the cotton,together w ith the Speed and volume of the air dis

placed by the rotation oi the cylinder . For the first of these cir

cumstances i t may be stated that in machines of modern con

struction,20 per cent of the cylinder circumference may be al lotted

to the hood or casing prior to the poi nt of commencement of the

grid bars , and 50 per cent of the circumference to the grid bars

themselves . The shape and sett ing of these bars are governed

by several factors,the chief of which are : (1) the nature of the

material to be acted upon ; (2) the amount of impurities conta i ned

in i t ; and (3) the relat ive amount of Opening and cleaning to

which the cotton has been subj ected at different posit ions in its

passage over the grid bars ,and the di fference in the character of

the impurities which are ejected at these points . The object of

the bars should be at fi rst to arrest the cotton sharply,and the

s ection of the first few bars Should be such as to hold the cottonfor a v ery brief period after its impact

,thus al lowing the impurities

to free themselves readily,and by presenting angular faces to the

detached tufts of cotton,which tend to prevent their rapid pass

age over the bars ,cause them to be struck oftener by the blades .

As the cleaning proceeds,the necessi ty for this sharp impact and

progressional obstruction becomes l ess ; the bar angles Should be

made less acute,so that

,as the cotton is dri ven forward by the

combined action of beater and fan,i t is subj ected to a series of

gentle vibrat ions,which final ly develop into a slight scraping action

,

as the now opened cotton passes over the fina l section of the bars .

The action or effect produced on the cotton varies therefore in

accordance with the changes in section of the bars , so that the

angl e made by the bar faces becomes of the utmost importance,

and should receive a corresponding amount of attention . Whenthese angles have been satisfactO Iily established ,

the full cleaning

THE PRODUCTION OF COTTON WASTE . 35

efficiency of a set of bars can only be real ized when the air current

pass ing through the spaces between the bars is correct ly adjusted

to the bar sect ions,and i n accordance with the effects which the

angular setting of the bars is designed to produce upon the material .Theoret ical ly

,the air current passing into the machine through the

grid bar aperture s at any point should be j ust sufficient to detach thecotton from the bar edges and keep i t inside the beater chamber .

As the sections are changed,and with the angles made by the bar

faces becoming less acute,the force and volume of the air current

necessary to detach the cotton become less,and Should be reduced

in approximately the same rat io as the reduction i n the holding

capacity of the bars . The advantages derived from the reduction

of this air current are very great , as i t al lows l ighter impurit ies to

be ej ected from the cotton which could not possibly have made

headway against the strength of the current necessary to detachthe cotton from bars of more acuteangles .

The real ization of these effects can be attained by dividing out

the beater chamber into sections,corresponding to the different sec

t ions of bars used,so that the series of bars of different sections

may be isolated from each other . These divis ions can be readily

applied in the form of shee t - iron folding doors,easi ly removable

for cleaning purposes,and the subdivis ion of the ent ire chamber

may be arranged to form two or three chambers as may be neces

sary . I t is not advisable to carry this farther than three sub

divis ions,for various reasons . E ach division should communicate

wi th the'

external atmosphere through examination doors provided

with draft control regulators . These latter Should be regulated to

g overn the air supply in decreasing volume as the cotton becomesmore open and the impurit ies to be extracted become finer . These

subdivisions also serve a useful secondary purpose , as they break

up the local ci rcular air currents which are g enerated by the meet

ing of the fan and beater currents inside the chamber,and

which in a chamber not subdivided or fitted with baffl ing plates,

transfer a constant stream of impurit ies from the upper to the

lower series of bars,where they re- enter the machine and pass

forward . AS to the actual design and spacing of the grid bars them

selves there is much divergence of opinion the methods employed

differ cons iderably even when intended for use under s im ilar cir

cumstances .

It is not poss ible in a short space to deta i l the many factors

36 COTTON WASTE .

which influence these arrangements , but the following method of

construction possesses the advantage that i t has been evolved from

pract ical experiments , and is specially adapted to the previous data

suppl ied on this type of opener working the Icottons under discus

s ion . Let A represent the circle described bylthe tip of the cyl inder

blades and B the circle of grid bar edges . l The distance between

FIG . 2.—~Ang les of Beaten Bars .

the circles should be {1

6i n . to g in . Assuming the edge of the firs

bar to coincide with the point C,then through C draw DE tangentia l

to beater circle A . On CE construct the ang l e ECF of 30°

and

proj ect the line FC to G . Through X (the centre of the beater

circle) draw XH at right angles to FG . With centre X and radius

XH draw the circle II,which wil l be the construction circle to

Which all the upper bar faces must be tangential for bars of similar

section . From C mark off CK I}; in . long ,and from X draw the

THE PRODUCTION OF COTTON WASTE . 3 7

radial l ine XK,intersect ing the l ine DE at L

,this completes the

bar CKL . For the second bar,mark off on the circle B a distance

MN of 75 i n . N is commencing point for the second bar. Join

NX and bisect the line at O . Wi th centre O and radius NO,

cut the circle A at P,and the circl e IJ at Q . Proj ect lines through

N from P and Q respectivelv . These lines will then be tangentsto their respect ive circles

,and the bar may aga i n be completed by

a radial l ine from X passing through S. For the bars of the second

section the construct ion is similar except that the angle ECF is

The bars of the final section are also Similarly constructed,

but with angle ECF On analysi ng this construction it will be

noted that two of the bar faces are Similar in each instance,the

difference being in the angle made by the face l ine CF with the

tangential l ine to beater circle CE . The reasons for this are as

fol lows : The tufts of cotton struck by the cylinder blades are

proj ected forward in a l ine tangential to the blade circle,so that

the bar face CE fol lowing the same course presents the least posSible obstruction to the fl ight of the impuri t ies

,hence the reason for

adopting this method of construction for the whole series of bars .

For lower cottons this l ine would be made to fal l away from the

beater a few degrees more than the tangent ial line , which would

increase its keenness,but this is not to be commended for the finer

cottons. The angle ECF is highly important , as i t determines the

c l eaning capacity of the bar to a very grea t extent . The more

acute this angle the more tenaciously wil l the bar cling to the

c otton driven on to it,and the efficiency wil l thus be determined

by the effects produced by the interaction between the bars and the

cylinder blades . Acute angles retai n the portions of cotton for a

c omparatively longer period than more obtuse angles,thus al lowing

the impurities t ime to fal l,preventing too rapid passage of cotton

through the machine,and causing it to be re-presented to the

cylinder blades oftener,all of which tends to Open and clean the

cotton to a finer degree . On the other hand ,too great keenness i n

the bar angle scrapes and deteriorates the fibre,makes good waste

,

and i f the retentivity of the bar is too great causes overcrowding ,

w i th consequent stringing and cutting of the materia l if the fan

draft is not excessively powerful, which ,

of course,defeats the

obj ect of the bar ent irely .

I t is thus obvious that bars of very acute angles,if used , must

be few i n number . In the second set of bars , the change of section

38 COTTON WASTE .

consequent upon the al teration of the ang l e ECF to 45°

has a veryimportant effect . In the first place

,its obstructive effect is de

creased ,and i n the second place its capacity for retai ning the

material inside the machine is i ncreased. The latter development

is necessitated to a certai n extent by the cotton having beenOpened out to a finer degree

,and is directly due to the change

i n the bar angle ECF,causing the point E , which represents the

intersection of the face l ine CF by the tangential line CE,to be

nearer the point C in the second set of bars than in the first,

and nearer stil l i n the third set . This point represents the

farthest outer posi tion on to which the cotton can be thrown,

theoretically Speaking ,and bringing this point nearer to the edge

C of the bars makes i t increasi ngly difficul t to throw good material.

through the apertures .

Before leaving this phase of the subj ect one very important

feature must be noted ,viz .

,that all through the various changes

of bar sections,the Spaces between the bars rema in the same

,viz .

ifin . It might on first considerat ion appear tha t this practice

would conduce to the passage of good material through the bar

Spaces , especial ly as the genera l pract ice is to reduce the apertures.

towards the final sections of the bar system ' but for the cottonsunder discuss ion

,with the conditions previously described and the

bars arranged as demonstrated,no good materia l is wasted . On

the other hand,with the different sections of bars divided to form

two or more chambers,and the air currents efficiently control led

the extraction of finer impurities during the latter stages is greatlyi ncreased by the additiona l area provided for their exit . Before

l eaving the subj ect of the Opener,i t should be stated that under

the foregoing conditions the cotton should not be subjected to

more than one beating , so that the single cylinder machine withlap part is amply sufficient

,the double opener being much too

severe for these cottons .

In the second process of prepara tion,viz . scutching , the clean

ing is continued ,and at the same time the finished result should

be the foundation upon which the subsequent regularity of the

product is built . The cleaning in this machine is due primari lyto the action of the bladed beater and its auxiliaries

,the grid bars

,

cages,and fan . The action of the bladed beater is more thorough

than that of the cyl inder beater,as i t strikes its blow simul tane

ously across the ful l w idth of the machine,thus driving out ims

40 COTTON WASTE .

avoid abrasion of the material a feed roller should never be used

for fine cotton which wil l not a llow a full {5 i n . to in . clearance

between the blade edge and its nearest point when set the correct

distance from the rol ler centres .

The manner in which the cotton is removed by the beater

should be carefully studied,and i n connexion with this the follow

ing details should receive attention : The beater setting having

been decided,the feed roller should be weighted sufficiently to

compress the material being fed to such a degree that the lapfringe develops a tendency to spring away from the surface Of the

bottom feed rol ler,and proj ect itself into the path of the revolving

blades . This weighting,however

,must not be carried to excess

,

and,speaking general ly

,a weight of approximately 10 to 12 lb .

per inch width of feed will be found sufficient for the dens i ties of

feed previously given .

Under these circumstances,the first point on the lap fringe to

receive the impact of the beater is at a distance of about 1 in .

from its extreme edge . The beater striking this point drives backthe fringe , and passes along it

,its resil ience due to the compression

between the feed rollers forcing it against the beater blade,and

thus causi ng the fibres to be removed from its extreme edge,which

is natural ly thin and the resistance to extraction cons iderably less .

Immediately the blade passes,the flex ibi l i ty of the fringe causes i t

to agai n proj ect itself forward to receive the next blow,the action

of the feed mot ion,of course

,automat ical ly restoring the amount

of material removed by the blades , thus ma intain ing uniformity

i n the length under treatment . The remova l of the fibre under

these condit ions is effected in the most suitable manner possible,

and with the minimum amount of strai n and damage,as the re

silience of the fringeand its ability to move away from the beater

ensure almost perfect inviolatility. On the other hand,if the

setting distance is too close , or the diameter of the feed rol lers toolarge to g ive a proper clearance

,the result is a crushing orchopping

of the material between the circumference of the bottom feed

rol ler and the beater blade,which is denoted by the fringe of the

lap showing a very abrupt change of section with an i rregularstragg l ing edge , i n which rol led up fibre and art ificia l nip are

readily discernible .

In all cleaning machines i n which the material is fed in lapform , the exact manner of the remova l of the success ive units of

THE PRODUCT ION OF COTTON WASTE . 41

material as deduced from a close study of the immediate sect i on

of the mass from which they have been extracted,is of paramount

importance to the successful manipulat ion of the machine,and

forms in practi ce a most va luable and unfa i l ing guide to the

real i zat ion of the highest efficiency . The ma intenance of a uni

form fringe,accompanied by uniform reduct ion in its section

,also

increases the effic iency of the beating or cleaning action,as the

impurit ies are worked downwards by the repeated blows of the

FIG 3 .- Ang les of Grid Bars for Scutcher.

b eater into the thinner sections of the fringe , when they are more(easi ly driven out .

The construction of the grid bars in the scutcher must also be

a rranged in accordance with the more Open condit ion of the cotton

and its extract ion in finer part icles . The construct ion fol lowing

upon the same principles as previously deta i led for the opener is

indicated in Fig . 3 , where the angle ECF is made 50° as i n the

final sections of the Opener bars . The face CF is tangent ial to the

beater circl e as in the previous instances , and the lower s ide of each

bar is radial to the beater circle . The pract ical advantages derived

42 COTTON WASTE .

by construct ing the lower face of every bar radial ly to the centreof beater circle are very great , as i t g ives symmetry to the barsystem

,provides excellent faci li ties for the passage of impurit ies

outwards,and great ly facil i tates the sett ing of the bars to their

correct angular posi t ions respective to the beater circle,i f for any

reason they have been removed . For fine cottons the sect ion of

bar shown in Fig . 3 mav be used throughout the entire set in the

scutcher,and the spacing may be arranged as follows

Assuming 15“

to 18 bars i n the set,the first eight may be

spaced g i n . apart,the next four bars T

5

?i n . apart

,and the rest

a i n . The first bar may be set in . from the nearest point of the

bottom feed roller,and all the bar edges nearest to the beater

,a

distance of T3. i n . away from the beater circle . For coarser cottons

these part iculars and settings would differ cons iderably,the bar

angles be ing much more acute and ranging up to which in ~

volves a different method of construction entirely ; but for the

cottons forming the subject of these remarks,the previous arrange

ment gives good results without i njuring the fibre . I t is a lso good

practice to divide the beater chamber i n this machine into twoseparate divis ions

,and admit a lesser volume of air to the one

section,thereby increas i ng the clean ing efficiency .

The further cleaning and remova l of impurit ies is now under

taken by the card ,whose action is much more refined than that

of the preceding machines,and is admirably adapted to the re

quirements of the material at this stage . In the pract ical cardingof fine cottons there are several c ircumstances to be observed and

anticipated if the fibre is to emerge from the process without

injury,as the relat ively higher factor of cohesiveness existent in

cottons of longer fibres greatly augments the difficulties of their

effective separat ion . Having formed the materia l i nto a suitable

lap for presentat ion to the card,the first subj ect for considerat ion

is the method of feeding to the taker- in ,i n order to obtain the

greatest efficiency from the action of that most important organ

The results Obtained from the treatment of the lap by the taker - ih

are dependent upon several factors,the chief of which are (1) the

pitch,shape

,number

,and surface speed of the teeth ; (2) the

mass of the material fed per unit t ime and the ratio existent

between these two circumstances ; (3) the profil e of the“feed

plate,which

,i n conjunct ion with the l i near speed of the feed , de

term ines the durat ion of the combing action ; (4) the shape of the

THE PRODUCT ION OF COTTON . WASTE . 48

mote kn ives,and their angular dispos it ion with the surface of the

taker - in,and their respect ive d istances from the feed plate from

each other and from the undercas ing of the taker - in and (5) theconstructiona l features of the undercasing

,the shape of the bars

,

the sett ing,and the i nfluence of the local a ir currents generated in

the taker- in chamber .

Taking the first of these item s,viz .

,the clothing of the taker

in,the dual duties of the teeth must be cons idered

,viz .

,the Open

ing out of the tangled mass of fibres i n the‘

lap and the carryingforward of minute bunches of fibre to the cyl inder . The teeth

must,therefore ,

be so shaped that these functions will be satisfac

FIG . 4 .

torily performed ,and for the cottons under treatment a profile as

indicated in Fig . 4 gives excel lent all- round results . In this form

of clothing the circumferentia l pi tch of the teeth is 2 5 in .,the

working depth '156 in .,the angle which the carryi ng face of the

tooth makes with the vert ical (angle ABC) and the angle ofthe tooth from the l ine of its front edge (angle CBD ) Thisprofil e of tooth ,

when worked at a Speed suitable for the cotton,

develops sufficient reta in ing power to allow of the use of a fairly

open grid,thus providing facil i ties for the extract i on of minor im

puri t ies . For fine cottons sufficient opening out is accomplished

(provided all other conditions are normal) by spirals of 1 in . pitch,

with 6 in . complete threads on the taker- in surface . This gives a

pitch of '16 between adjacent threads .

4 4 COTTON WASTE .

The profil e of the feed plate is shown in Fig . 5 ,and its leading

characterist ics are as fol lows The hori zontal ax is of the taker -in

passes through the nose of feed plate at approximately the pos i tion

at which the fibres are l iberated from the nip of the feed roller ,

and the distance between the teeth of the taker - in and the face offeed plate at this point (A) Should not be less than gth of an inch

when the lower portion of the plate is set to a 5’

s gauge from the

t eeth . The angle made by the face of the plate AB relat ive to the

circle of the taker-in should be such that the teeth first touch at a

p oint D (1g i n . from A) , and leave agai n at a point E (15 in . from A) .

FIG . 5 .—Undercasing and Mote-Knives of Card ing Eng ine.

The bearing distance of taker - in teeth to feed plate is thus from D

to E,the teeth being at their greatest depth at the point X , mid

way between D and E . This should be tested pract ical ly when

changes have been made in the length or angular disposit ion of

the face of the plate,by smearing the face AB with some kind of

marking substance,moving the plate up to the taker- in unti l i t

touches l ightly,and then turn ing the taker-in gently by hand ,

afterwards not ing the effect on the face of the plate , Where the

marking substance should be removed for the distance Specified .

The face AB should be cont inued a ful l in . beyond the point E ,

where the marking by the taker - in teeth finishes , thus giving a

length of AB equal to 13 in . I t is highly important that the face

THE PRODUCT ION OF COTTON WASTE . 45

of the plate be continued beyond the point E ,as i f a form of plate

be used in which the point B coincides with or is higher than thepoint E

,the percentage of good fibre ej ected at this stage wil l be

considerably higher than would be the case with a feed plate on

which the face was extended well beyond this point .

The extension of this face beyond the point at which the taker

in teeth definitely commence to leave it when following their path

of circular movement , greatly facil itates the retention of the fibre

by the teeth,on account of the angular face of the feed plate

fol lowing to a certa in extent the contour of the taker- in surface,

and thus lessening the distance between the points of the teeth

and the face of the plate .

The angle made by the mote knives is a very important feature,

and is responsible for much of the clearing out of fine impurities .

I t is not poss ible to state any definite degree of angle which willsui t every instance

,as circumstances vary to an extent which

makes the standardization of this sett ing impossib le . For normal

feeds and speeds,and for long -fibre cottons

,worked with takers

in covered with teeth as previously indicated ,a good method is to

arrange the two faces of the bars G andH tangentia l to circles of

6 A

QL in . and 97} i n . diameter respect ively ; this setting proving the

most effective out of an extended trial of several combinations of

ang les . The distances between the feed plate and the knives,

between the knives themselves,and betweenthe second kni fe and

the undercasing,also have an important influence upon the result

,

and very good all- round results are obta ined by keeping all these

distances within the length of °7 times the average length of the

fibre,which in the present i nstance limits the distance between

the first two Of these sett ings to li in. The taker- in undercasi ng

may be extended to within g in . of the second knife . The bars in

the undercasi ng may be fixed as i ndicated,with 53 i n . clear space

between each bar,and constructed with the receiving face set at

an angle of with a radia l l ine from the centre of the taker - in .

The edges of the bars must be rounded off and highly pol ished,and

the undercasing,mote knives , and feed plate set as closely as

possible to the taker -in .

The examination of the lap fringe after it has been subjectedto the action of the taker- in

,is a good practica l method of asoer

ta ining the suitability of any given combination of taker- ih speed ,

profil e of feed plate,and speed and weight of the feed per unit

4 6 COTTON WASTE .

t ime . When the fibres are being removed under the best condi

t ions, the lap should taper off uniformly from full thickness to a

thin fringe of fibres , which should present a level and unbroken

edge . The ex tent of the tapered sect ion should not be too short,

and should average for these cottons from in . to 13 in . I f the

section of the fring e shows very abrupt reduct ion it may i ndicate

that the feed plate incl ine is either too short or has i nsufficient

clearance from the teeth of the taker - in at its upper edge for the

we ight or mass of fibres presented .

If the edge of the fringe is very irregular , with gaps at intervals ,the probable causes are too great a length of incl i ne from the nipping

point to the point Of release ; too quick a speed of feed relat ive to

the surface speed of the taker- in ; insufficient weighting of the

feed rol ler or the rol l er and the feed plate out of a l ignment with

each other , thus fai l i ng to establ ish a perfect grip on the lap acrossits ful l width ,

which results i n pluck ing and very irregular re

moval of the material . Under any circumstances,i f a uniform

fringe is not permanently ma i nta i ned,a higher percentage of good

fibre Wil l be found i n the droppings than would be found normal ly .

The arrangements_

of speeds , drafts , and production vary

sl ightly accord ing to circumstances ,and i n the working of super

fine cotton a knowledge of the l imit ing factors is of great ass istance

when the necessity for adjustment occurs .

The first feature in this respect which demands attention isthe maximum permiss ible Speed of the constant speed organs

,vi z .

taker - in and cyl inder . These speeds are,of course

,l imited by the

nature of the mater ial,and i n the present instance should not ex

.ceed 900 and 1900 ft . per m inute for the taker - in and the cyl inder

respectively . The Speeds of the variable speed organs,viz .

the

feed parts and the doffer and its connexions,are governed by

various factors,amongst which are (1) The u l t imate counts of

sl iver required relative to the count of the lap fed ; (2) the product ion required from cards

,and the number of cards ava ilable

relative to this tota l production (3) the maximum density of the

feed per unit t ime which the nature of the mater ia l wil l a l low

w ithout deteriorat ion ; and (4) the min imum surface speed of the

doifer which will clear the cyl inder efficiently .

Taking this from the point of view of the best practi ce for fine

c ottons,the considera tions affecting the qual i ty of the product

should be the first to rece i ve at tent ion,and i n this respect the

48 COTTON WASTE .

For the conditions and feed weights,as previously indicated

,

the surface speeds of the doffer for Sea Islands and fine Egyptian

cottons should not fal l below 55 to 58 ft . per minute . It is not

an uncommon occurrence when the output of a card is adjusted

to give the same tota l production of a l ighter sl iver,to find that

the increased doffer speed for the same weight of feed results i n a

diminution in the percentage of flat strips . This is on account ofthe increased efficiency of the doffing action

,as i f fibres are con

stantly passing the doffer , the inevitable result is the retention of

good fibre by the flats . This same defect may also be the result

of wide sett ing between the doffer and the cylinder,by neglect of

stripping at consistent intervals,and by dull wire . The speed of

the flats is also a very important considerat ion ,as i t affects not

only the qual ity of the carding but the percentage of waste ex

tracted . No definite rule can be stated,the speed being purely

dependent upon local circumstances and the condition of the cotton

under treatment i n respect to cleanliness . The average speed for

superfine cottons usual ly ranges from two to three inches per

minute . The action of the flats is one of great interest,and should

be carefully studied in conjunct ion with the cotton under treat

ment . The rate of presentat ion of clean flats to the cylinder at

that point at which the cotton conta ins practically the whole of

the impurities which the flats are expected to extract,governs to

a very appreciable extent the cleanliness of the resultant sl iver .

If a card be run bare and the cyl inder and dofler stripped so that

no charged surfaces exist upon any of the carding organs,the card

started in this condition ,and agai n stopped when the sliver has

atta i ned its average weight per yard , much va luable i nformation

may be gathered by turning the flats back and analysing the flat

strips i n their various posit ions . It wi ll be found that,providing

the flats have been properly set down in the first instance , very

few (if any) of the larger impurities have passed the first four or

five flats . The charging Of the flats is heavier at the feed than at

the del ivery end , as might naturally be expected ,and the percentage

of good fibre is considerably greater in the ini tial than the termina l

sections of the flats,the strips on the ini t ial section of the flats

being much more loosely held than those in the latter sections .

The most striking feature is the absence of any of the heavier im

purit ies i n the flat strips after the first few flats,which throws a

very interesting light upon the action of the flats on the cotton .

THE PRODUCT ION OF COTTON WASTE . 49

In connexion with the above experiment , i t must be remembered

that all the flats were uncharged or bare to commence wi th . The

inferences which may be drawn from this experiment are : (1)Tha t the cotton as received by the cyl inder from the taker-in is

brought forward in the form of minute tufts of fibres cl ingingtogether, rather than in individua l fibres as is often supposed .

These smal l tufts are arrested by the first flats,and retained unti l

they are stra ightened out and removed ~by the cylinder . The

heavier impurit ies having been arrested by“ the flats are reta ined

by them , being firmly embedded in the flat wire as a result of the

extraction of the fibres to which they are attached,these being

drawn away from them through the wire of the flat,that is

,through

the heel . (2) That the presentation of good fibre to the cyl inder

by the flats continues for a certa i n period after the flats have be

come fully charged at the feed end,and this period is dependent

upon the speed of the flats,the weight of the feed

,and the qual ity

of the cotton . Simultaneously with this remova l of good fibre

the flats are i ntercept ing other fibres on . the cyl inder surface , so

that as a result of this mutual interaction the compos it ion of the

flat strips changes as the flats follow their normal course . The

longer fibres having greater affinity for the quickly moving points

on the cyl inder than for those on the slowly moving flats are carried

forward,whilst the shorter fibres and impurities tend to take their

place and rema in . (3) The efficiency of the flats g radual ly dimin

ishes as they approach the terminat ion of thei r course over the

cyl inder,ahd this loss of

'

efficiency may be al lotted to two dis

t inct c ircumstances,which

,however

,influence each other in a very

decided manner . In the first place,the “ loading or accumula

t ion of material on the wire surface of the flat , natural ly reducesits ava i lable number of i ntercepting poi nts

,thus lessening its

effectiveness i n deal ing with the fibres on the cyl inder . In the

s econd place,the character of the strip i tself as the flat nears the

c omplet ion of its path over the cyl i nder further reduces its efficiency

i n the fol lowing manner : It was previously sta ted that,i n a card

a ctually at work,the flat strips are equal ly as heavy at the feed as

at the del ivery end . There is,however

,this difference

,that the

flat strips at the feed end are almost wholly composed of good

material which is readily transferred to the cyli nder , thus freeing

the flat and enabling i t to intercept other fibres to replace them .

The flat strips at the del ivery end are composed of fibres which

50 COTTON WASTE .

have been i ntercepted,and on account of their shortness the cylin

der has been unable to transfer them . The interact i on between

flat and cyli nder thus becomes less , owing to the decrease in the

quantity of transferable material held by the flat,which at the

same time prevents the flats i n the latter sections from exercising

more than a nominal i ntercepting action on the material held by

the cylinder . This further emphasi zes the necessi ty for close oh

servat ion and regulation of the supply of clean flats to the cylinder

i n accordance with the waste to be extracted from the material

under treatment,and the best practical method is to adopt a Speed

which gives a st rip of sufficient densi ty to strip cleanly,without

clinging to the flat wire .

In the carding of fine cottons very heavy flat strips should

always be viewed with a certai n amount of suspicion , as they are

usual ly one of the first Signs of grave deteriorat ion i n the action

of the machine,and this indicat ion Should never be neglected .

E xcessively heavy flat strips,i f not due to the causes previously

enumerated,may be due to too slow speed of the flats

,or to wide

setti ng of the front fly plate . The latter procedure is sometimes

resorted to by ; the unin it iated to produce a heavier strip,and is

very much to be deprecated . It may i nvariably be detected in

the appearance of the flat s trips as they fall away from the strip

ping comb,by the “ bridging ”

or connexion of flat strips to each

other by a network of good fibre . If this set t ing be carried to

excess the strips may be pulled bodily away from the film of goodfibre

,thus proving it to have been extracted subsequent to the

formation of the flat strips,and its posit ion relat ive to the flat

strips Shows that it has been taken from the cylinder entirely .

Fi nally,for the very bes t Sea Islands cotton

,flats not less than

2 i n . wide , 1a i n . on the wire,should be used ; whilst for the

lower qua l i ties of Sea Islands and bes t Egyptian cotton,the

13 i n . flat,1 i n . wide on the wire

,may be used . The “ heel i n

both instances should not be less than 0 38 i n . per each inch ofWidth .

Passing to the fina l cleaning process i n the preparation of

cotton for fine Spinning , viz . combing,i t may be stated that this

is the o nly process which exercises a discriminatory or selective

action upon the material . It is this propensi ty which makes thisprocess i nvaluable

,and makes i t by far the most important of the

enti re series of preparatory processes . It differs also from the

THE PRODUCT ION OF COTTON WASTE . 51

preceding cleaning processes in the fact that,during combing

,the

fibres are held at each end in alternate sequence,and subjected

to a sufficient stra in to check their natural cur l ing tendency .

This governing act ion is not relaxed until the fibres are incorpor

a ted in the sl iver , thus resul t ing in absolute paral lel ism of its

component fibres . The efficacy of the combing operat ion is not

wholly dependent upon the action of the machine i tself , but is

greatly influenced by the method of presen tat ion of the material .

This latter factor is one which varies cons iderably,according to

the character of the,material and the results required ; but for

the finest cottons the most suitable method is to present i t in the

form of as l ight a lap as the production required from the machineswill a llow .

This system favours the extract ion of nep,which general ly

exists to a very great extent i n the finest cottons,where its ab

sence is most desired . I t is also found that i n these cottons the

neps adhere very tenaciously to the fibre,and this disadvantage is

accentuated by the fact that the long,fine fibres are more eas ily

stra ined than shorter,and consequently thi cker

,fibres would

be . The balance of advantages are thus eas i ly on the s ide of

lap feeding in the form of l ight laps,and for the best results the

weights should not exceed 18 to 20 and 24 t o 28 grs . per yard

per inch width of lap for fine Sea Islands and E gyptian cottons

respectively. For these cottons,also

,machines wider than 8-5 i n .

i n the lap are not to be commended,as the production of an even

fleece or web from a lap wider than this at the weights per yardspecified , becomes a matter of great d ifficulty on account of itsextremely del icate nature .

Defects in Rovings— Theifr Causes and Remedies.

Summary of Defects Uneven rovings ; (2) soft rovings

(3) hard rovings , or rovings having too much twist ; (4) dirty'

rovings , or rovings containing nep and small portions of leafstretched rovings ; (6) cut rovings ; (7) rovings conta i ni ng slubs ;(8) stained rovings (9) single rovings (10) thickened rovings .

1. Causes of Uneven R 0m’

ngs .

— These may be caused throughthe circuit or passage from rollers to bobbin not be ing free enough

,

or through faulty action of differentia l motion,or sl ippage of cone

belt , or binding of the racks and rack pinions . Uneven rovi ng smay, however , be caused by uneven sl ivers ; also when short fibre

52 COTTON WASTE .

is present to a g reat extent i n the raw cotton , or through del iberate

mixing of long and short -fibred cottons .

Remedies — Examine flyer and see that i t is thoroughly clean .

Pass a strand of some mater ial covered with French chalk through

flyer l eg and thus clean it . Exami ne differentia l motion,see that

all parts are well lubricated . E xamine all wheels of which it

is composed for broken teeth ,etc . See that they are properly i n

gear with each other . Make cone belt sufficiently tight to avoid

excess ive sl ippage . E xamine racks and rack pi nions as to their

e fficient working . See that the sl ivers put up at Slubbing frames

are uniform . We could not avoid the presence of short fibres in

the raw cotton as these are present more or l ess according to the

c ircumstances under which the cotton is grown . We could ab

sta i n from mixing long and short cottons and this would certa inly

give better results .

2. Causes of Soft Roviugs .- Insufficient twist i n the rovings;

weights fa l l ing and not being seen,or weight being disconnected

from weight hook defects i n rol ler coverings .

Remedies — We Should of course put on a l ess twist wheel,i.e.

one having a less number of teeth ,thus affecting all parts of the

frame with the exception of the twist ing spindles , which would

rema in the same,thus giving the des ired effect .

See that the rol l ers are properly weighted , all weights being

connected to the rol lers by the w eigh t hooks .

Channel ling of the front top rol lers , due mostly to faul ty traverse

m otions , may al low the rovings to come through too freely . Put

i n fresh rollers with good covering s . Make traverse motion so to

work that we shal l obta in best results .

3 . Causes of Hard Roviugs .

— These may be caused by having

too much tw ist , we Should therefore put on a twist Wheel having

a greater number of teeth and obtai n the reverse of what we got

with the change in second case . Top rollers binding is a common

cause .

4 . Causes of Nappy, D irty and LeafyBearings — Nep is presentto a greater or lesser extent i n all cottons . I t cons ists of very smal l

portions Of fibre which curl up i n to very smal l specks and a fter‘wards mix w ith the rest of the fibres , making it difficul t to extract .

D i rt and l eaf ought not to be present in the roving to any g reat

extent,unless something is very wrong ; however , we often find

smal l portions of both .

THE PRODUCT ION OF COTTON WASTE . 53

R emedies —AWe might see to i t that flat, cyl inder , and doffer

clothing on the card were in good condition,so as to take out

the maximum amount of nep,the sett ings being kept good .

There is,of course

,a less tendency for the nep to find its way

i nto the roving when combers are used,because the fibres are

treated more p ’

osi t ively . If these conditions are fulfil led it wil l

undoubtedly minimi ze the amount of dirt and leaf .

We may,however

, pay heed to air current and dust flues inOpeners and scutchers

,and the mote knives and l icker - in on the

card . See also that there is every facil ity for the dirt fal l ing out

at each process .

5 . Causes of Stretched Rovings.

—Rovings are stretched through

the roll ing effect produced by the wheels of the swing mot ion when

the l i ft travels one way,by a wrong s ize of ratchet wheel or cone

bel t i n wrong pos ition .

6 . Causes of Cut Rovings .

—Rovings may be cut or thin places

made (1) through rollers becoming dirty and clogged ; (2) also

through neglect of oil ing,flutes or uneven surfaces on leather

covered rol l ers .

Remedies— Clean through the rol lers top and bottom and see

to proper lubricat ion thereof . Take out all defective rol lers and

replace with rollers recovered and varnished .

7 . Causes of Rovings Containing Stubs — These are often caused

by fibres cl inging together with moist matter of one kind or another,being more presen t in carded than combed rovings . They are also

caused through neglect of cleaning top and bottom clearers at

regular intervals .

N.B.

— In D raw - frames and Fly- frames,6s . net .

,by the pres

ent author,this subject is very fully discussed .

The lVo'

rk on Self-Acting Mules .

Excessive breakage of threads from any cause inevitably leads

to excessive loss in waste . Some of the leading causes of bad

Spinning are referred to below,and the remedy in each case is fairly

Obvious . Na tural ly,the primary requ is i te is the use of cotton

sufficiently good for the counts and kind of yarn that has'

to be

Spun . If the cotton is much below the standard requ i red there

will be bad spinning and inferior yarn,although these detrimenta l

effects may be often dimin ished by running the carriages out moreslowly or putt ing more twist in the yarn .

54 COTTON WASTE .

It is a very bad Sign, and i t is an awkward feature to deal with

,

when some of the threads are so tight as to be breaking while

other threads at the same time are running i nto snarls . Putt ing

too much ga i n of carriage i n or too much ratch often causes ex

cessive waste and bad spinning,these extremes being resorted to

in order to keep snarls out.

I t is poss ible to cause extra thread breakages by excess ive

twist and not accompanying this with suitable regulations of carriage

tension . Unlevel rovings,many bad ends i n the rovings , rovings

too weak through over- stretching,or else short of twist , or other de

fects i n the bobbins,or in the creels

,may cause excess ive breakage of

bobbins , and this makes i t diffi cult for the operat ives to keep up

with their other work . It is absolutely essent ial for the production

of good work that a minder and his piecers shall be able to keep

up with the work,and not have to keep stopping up in order to

get stra ight again . When a good average minder cannot do so i t

is time th ings were improved somewhere . Every good Spinner

knows that it is a first law with him that he must not get behi nd

with his work,as i t may easi ly mult iply aga i nst him in the way

of cops wanti ng pushing up after the threads have run down for

a t ime,roller laps wanting pull ing off

,and roller laps caus ing other

threads to break . E ven i n the case of bad spinning it is easier for

the operat ives to keep up with it than to keep getting behind ,and

then attempting to get straight again .

In order to produce the minimum of waste the bobbins i n the

creel must be run off as near as possib le , and not taken off and cut

or pul led to waste when quite a lot of roving remai ns on the bobbins .

It is necessary that minders and piecers should work on a good

system in rega rd to re- creel ing,doffing , cleaning , and other duties,

and i n part icular care should be taken not to have too much of this

kind of work coming on at one time . Method in creel ing , doffing ,

cleaning,and i n part icular in regard to piecing up ,

will enable a

slower man to beat a qui ck one who has no good method . It issurpris ing how far piecing up one or two ends every draw will go

towards keeping up the ends i f done systematical ly and all the

time . After ends have been run down for a time,the cops must be

pushed up exactly level with the others,as pushing the cop up

the spindles too far will lead to the threads breaking in the winding on

, while i f not pushed up sufficiently there will be ni cked cops .

I t is ra ther better to push up such COpS before pieci ng the threads as

56 COTTON WASTE .

a mule up In order to pick a bit at a roller or a clearer , and this

helps when a hurrying time comes along . Breaking bits or pieces

of bobbins out ei ther means excessive waste i n pull ing or cutt ing

these off,or else i t means creeling and making piecings twice over

i n putting the piecings i n aga in . The management Should helpthe spinners to the utmost i n this respect

,so as to keep the roving

bobbins of one si ze and prevent creels from coming out together .

Piecers should be trained to make short piecings , and as soft as

poss ibl e,so they don ’t break aga i n ,

since bad bobbin piecing alone

may be responsible for many thread breakages and i ncreased waste .

Waste is often made by operatives break ing ends of long roving

piecing s off. Often a lso by roving being pulled off the bobbins

and thrown on the floor,and roving tenters Should not doff with

the li fter at the end of traverse so as to leave roving ends near the

ends of the bobbins,and thus fall ing off.

After piecing up a broken thread the finger should be run

along the Spindle to lay the Slack end closer to the bobbin ,and

prevent lashing of other ends or re - breaking in backing -off. Run

ning the finger down the Spindle in such a case appears to lay the

end closer to Spindle than running the finger up,and practice wi ll

show which answers best i n any part icular case , but either wil l do

i f properly attended to .

N i cked cops and Odd soft Cops are serious defects in mule yarn ,

and are very Often the spinner’

s fault and should be checked in

every reasonable way. Usual ly n i cked cops are the result of

threads being al lowed to rema i n broken for some time,and then

pieced up without the Cops being pushed up ,this often showing

a double carelessness . Slack strings are chiefly responsible forodd Cops being thicker and softer than the bulk of the cops

,and

the yarn from such Cops wil l be natura l ly weaker and much softer

twis ted than the bulk . Usual ly n icked cops and those made froms lack strings have to be put into the rej ects

,and sold as waste

COpS, or else made up into spindle banding .

Slack spi ndle bands, greasy spindle bands

,slack rim hands

,

dirty spindl e footsteps and bolsters are frequent causes of bad

Spinning , broken threads , and waste . What are termed “ thickand single portions Of roving inev itably lead to extra work ,

and

waste at the spinning machines,such defective roving s originat

ing at the intermediate or rov ing frames by three back bobbins

running together , or two front ones i n the case of thick roving s ,

PRODUCT ION OF COTTON WASTE . 57

or one only going forward instead of two at these machines i n the

case of s ingle The cardroom people Should protect the spinner

in these respects i n order to keep the waste down to a minimum .

In order to reduce the amount of work and waste duringdoffing to a minimum the operatives should see that all the ends

are pieced up before doffing , because each broken end wil l requirewinding-on as well as piecing up after doffing . The counter fal ler

should be put down to the best pos it ion for al lowing sufficient

slack yarn for pushing the cops up ,but not enough to entang le

the threads with each other,the latter being a very l ikely thing

i n the case of pi n cops and narrow spindle gauges . Also when

winding -on the doffing thread , and when final ly running the mule

up after doffing ,care is needed

,to keep the threads at best tension

without being either too Slack or too tight . Upon re- start ing take

part icular care to have the quadrant nut of correct height in order

to avoid snarled yarn on the one hand or threads breaking,through

over- tension,on the other hand . Al l these points affect both the

number of thread breakages and the amount of waste that is pro

duced.

Past ing , whipping,

and tubing are the three recognized

methods of obtaining good . cOp bottoms,

and the first two

especially need skilful and careful attention in order to l imit .

the waste made in winding,reel ing

,orweaving when the COps

have to be skewered . A great amount of waste has been caused

by soft , crushed up cop bottoms,with imperfect apertures i n them .

Cops Should be laid straight in the Skips,and the noses should

not be bent too much in the doffing process .

Bad cOp noses Often lead to excessive waste i n the subsequent

processes,and are Often due to such circumstances as Cop noses

being bui lt up too thickly or nosi ng motions not applied keenly

enough .

Cracked empty bobbins at the roving frame often lead to the

first layer of roving on a bobbin coming up dirty and oily , and also

somet imes bobbins are damaged in trans i t from roving frame to mule

creel . Cops getting on the floor , too much thin oil being put on

the rollers,are other causes of stained and oily yarn and extra waste .

E very effort should be made to have the top and bottom

clearers lapping nicely at the Spinning machines,remembering that

loose fibre and accumulations Of fibre frequently make bad ends

and increase the waste .

58 COTTON WASTE .

Sp inning l/Vaste

,Middle Iron Roller Lap s, Fluker Rods , and

Crows for Mule Bottom Rollers.

One of the differences i n detai l in regard to mules designed for

fine Spinning from E gypt ian cotton and those des igned to spin

lower numbers from American cotton may be found in connexion

with the method of keeping the front bottom rollers clean and of

l icking up the waste made by broken threads . A mule differs from

a bobbin and fly frame in the important respect that the mule need

not be stopped to piece up the threads which more or less break in

the ordinary way apart from the question of a sawney The

soft,untwisted cotton coming from the rollers when individual

threads are broken must not,however

,be permitted to make iron

roller laps .

There are chiefly two rival methods of doing the work under

d iscussion,viz . the fluker rods and the Short crows ”

or sticks

For the most part it is accepted that the short crows are the best

for all mules i n which there is lever weighting of the rollers with

saddle wires passing down between the front and second rollers .

Formerly these crows were used simply in the bare wood,and in

that state were particularly easy to clean . Possibly about thirty

years ago the practice of covering these wood under clearers with

flannel began to be extensively adopted,with the result that their

work is done much better al though they may be somewhat harder

to clean .

The fluker rod consists of a long polished iron rod ,revolving a

short distance below the front and middle top rollers , driven by a

pa ir of smal l pin ions from the front roller . Each fluker roller

reaches the length of hal f a mule . Now here is a point worthy of

a ttention on the part of practical men in regard to fluker rods . By

us ing just two pinions for driving ,the fluker rod is made to turn

inwardly or with its top surface moving a lways towards the middle

i ron rol ler,and this is the usua l method . It is quite possible

,

however,to effect a vast improvement i n regard to middle iron

rol ler laps by introducing a carrier between the two pinions,and

thus making the fluker rod revolve in the Opposit e direction ,or

have its top surface coming away from the middle iron roller . It“

is only fai r to point out, however , that all is not for the best i n

making such a change,and it is perhaps not to be recommended

except in extreme cases of trouble with middle iron roller laps— a

THE PRODUCTION OF COTTON WASTE . 59

by no means uncommon occurrence i n fine spinning with compara

tively large roller drafts .

Perhaps the greatest defect of the suggested method of driving

the fluker rod consists i n the tendency for the rod to help loose

fly and bad ends through the rollers,whereas in the more estab

lished method the tendency is to hold such defect ive work back,

and to take the same round the fluker rod .

A l ittle reflection will make it clear that an outward rotation

of fluker rod will tend to l ift up from the i ron roller any broken

ends,whereas the rotat ion inwardly tends a lways to hold such

broken ends nicely down . The best known remedy for excessive

l icking of middle iron laps i n cases of fine spinning is to take all

the weight Off the middle top roller , and then set the centres of

front and middle rollers well inside the length of the staple . In this

way the shorter fibres are helped better forward from middle to

front roller without much injury to the long fibres . It goes with

out saying that keeping the drafts down to a moderate limit is a

good remedy for middle iron roller laps,and this is sufficient to

prevent this trouble from developing to any great extent in using

American cotton with single roving . With double rovings,how

ever, it is often an awkward matter to keep the drafts down at the

mule,while the cotton is reduced to a fine grist

,and the fibres are

so much separated they will easi ly follow the bottom iron rol ler .

In many cases the use of iron pickers is prevented by the

management for middle i ron roller laps,whereas the use of the

softer brass pickers may poss ibly be encouraged .

Referring aga i n for a moment to the question of fluker rods, i t

may be pointed out that a most important reason for their adoption

is to be found in the fact that it is usual to weight the short fronttop rollers of a fine mule by hooks reaching down the front , and

these hooks are greatly in the way of wood “ crows or st i cks

when the latter are required to be cleaned . In some districts

where operat ives used to American cotton have gone on Egyptian

fine spinning it has been deemed best to use the crows , and also

use ins ide weight hooks .

Banding .

Due to Slack stri ngs,nicked Cops

,pul led out bottoms

,spoiled

noses , and similar defects,there is often an appreciable weight of

spoiled COps , unfit for the usual market for good yarn,but sti l l

60 COTTON WASTE .

suitable for use i n the yarn form instead of being broken up intocotton waste . As stated

,a very large proportion of such cops is

used up i n making ropes and Spindle banding,i n some cases

being sold for this purpose to banding manufacturers,but in

other cases the banding,not the ropes

,is made at the spinning

firm .

There are specially convenient machines avai lable for makingbanding of ei ther the solid or the tubular k inds .

Obviously the ordinary sol id banding may be made on wel l

known doubli ng lines by winding,doubling

,and twistin g a suf

ficient number of threads tog ether . Both tubular and solid

banding are extensively used in the Spinn ing trade and the tubu

lar is considered to be the more durable,especial ly i f the knots

are tied i n a sufficiently careful and skilful manner .

Tubular banding may be sa id to have a hol low core and the

bra id is made on a di fferent principle from the sol id banding ,

having more a plaited character,obtained by cross i ng and re

crossing several yarns together on a Special machine . The

development of technica l education has brought into power in

telligent foremen who can superintend such accessory processes .

A Manager’

s Letter on lVaste in Cotton Mi lls .

Approached on the subject,a manager friend of the writer

s

wrote as follows“ The waste that is produced in a cotton spi nning mil l is

a very important i tem indeed . Unless the utmost attention is

given to this matter by the management on the one hand ,or the

workpeople on the other hand,there will be a very serious loss ,

some of which could have been avoided . I t is absolutely neces

sary that every precaut ion be exercised in this respect , and rea

sonable strictness is essential . At the openers and scutchers

nothing should be allowed to'

be driven out except such undesir

able matter as seeds,sand

,heavy dirt

,leaf or other similar

stuff, with a very limited amount of fly . Any excess of fly should

be at once checked bv clos ing the bars or other means .

There has a lway s been a tendency for the carding engine totake out good fibre

,and both the fly and the strips should be

checked to every reasonable extent . In cases where the qual ity re

quired i n yarn is not particularly good the flats should be run veryslowly and the Stripping plate kept pretty closely set. In other

THE PRODUCT ION OF COTTON . WASTE . 61

cases the flat strips Should be either combed or a good price

obtained for them from waste deal ers . There are very few cases

i ndeed in which it is worth while to run modern carding‘

engines

without undercasings to l inker - in and cylinder . The can tentersor lap tenters should always guard against lap end waste and front

sl iver waste,and neither at cards

,combers

,nor draw- frames

should extra soft waste be made by cans choking up and running

over,although this danger is not great

,except at the card

,owing

to the use of st0p motions on the other machines . Usual ly i t isadvisable to keep the rollers of the draw - frame nicely varnished

i n order to reduce waste in roller laps and on the clearers . The

creel bobbins i n all the fly- frames,mules

,and ring- frames should

be run off as bare as possible,and careful supervision is always

needed on this point,since many operat ives have a bad habit of

making excessive roving waste . Whenever waste is made— and

there is no means of quite el iminating it— it Should be kept off

the floor as far as may be convenient , or at least very quickly

picked or swept up aga in . Top clearer waste , rol ler lap waste ,c row Waste , and roving waste

,especially

,come under this last

remark . The different kinds of waste produced at the various

machines , such as lap ends, Sl iver waste , fly from undercasings ,

s trippings , clearer waste , and sweepings should be kept separate

and careful picking should follow any mixing which may have

occurred from any cause . D irt boxes,waste t ins

,or other re

c eptacles for waste , should be provided wherever requ ired .

“ The waste of the various spinning mill processes const itutes

an important i tem in mill stat isti cs .

“ Between the weight of cotton used and the dry yarn spun

there is in spinning an average loss of something l ike 10 per cent

with good carded American . This is variable according to the

g rade of cotton used and heavier also when Indian or E gyptian

are used, as compared with Sea Islands

,and Boweds cottons .

When double carding or combing are done there is the extra per

c entag e of waste due to these extra processes .

“ In the blow - room the largest item of waste— and almost the

only item— is formed by what are termed droppings .

Should a l ine drawn at a tangent to the path of the beater

p ass directly through the space between the bars,the maximum

o f droppings is obtained as long as the bars are unal tered other

W IS8 .

62 COTTON WASTE .

The fly taken through the air tubes from the blow - room

machinery to the fan chamber or dust cel lar is very worthless andyet is sometimes sold as Fan fly

“ The bag pickings from the tares of the cotton bales are fre

quently used among other cottons but are sometimes sold . Whenthey are used every care must be taken to avoid picking bits of

j ute bagging .

“ In regard to card—room sweepings this is a somewhat elasti c

item,and sometimes an appreciable gai n may be obta ined by more

stringent discipline in this connexion .

Spinning-room sweepings should be kept free from the topclearer

,under clearer

,bobbin waste

,and banding waste

,all of

which are of higher value .

“ Increase of crow or under clearer waste is an i ndication of

worse Spinning and reduced qual ity of yarn .

“ About 1901 prices of some sorts of cotton waste were so

low that i t was scarcely worth while to bag the commoner sorts .

1While in 1909,1910 and 1911 high prices ruled for waste .

The Waste Question.

Formerly it was considered a sufficient achievement if yarn and

cloth could be produced from the raw materia l even at great expense and loss i n waste of raw material or in expenditure of almostun limited human energy .

To-day i t is necessary to economize both as far as can be madepracticable .

The days of no undercasings to the taker - in and cylinder of

a card are over for all ordinary work,and labour is economized

by the use of machinery .

We require to produce a particularkind of yarn or of cloth from a particular kind of cotton

,with a

minimum waste loss in order to make a profit .Wri t ing in June

,1911

,we had been for some time troubled

with a shortness of raw cotton,and this had made the cotton

waste question of greater importance than ever before .

In a certa i n test made in Georgia i t was found that about 10cotton bol ls out of every 100 were more or less diseased

,while i t

1 August , 1919 . The war led to phenomena l prices for cotton waste. Six

months before the Armist ice the writer pa id 12d. per lb . for best condenser flyand only 8d. for the same sort in the second year of the war, pre-war pri cesbeing distinct ly lower than this .

6 4 COTTON WASTE .

In one example a drop -wire or cradle,made of steel , hardened

and tempered , and enamelled or copper plated , is carr i ed by, and

swings loosely upon,the pivots of each short top expression

roller . The front portion of this drop wire or cradle is of such

a shape that the yarn— after passing under the bottom roller and

over the top one— is hooked under the needle and holds the same

up . Upon the thread breaking , the front portion of the drop

wire,hitherto held up by the yarn

,fal ls down or turns round on

the pivots of the top roller , so that a wedge -shaped portion enters“

between the top and bottom rollers .

As a result the tOp rol l er is t il ted backwards out of connexion

w ith the bottom one and del ivery of thread is arrested . This

a rrestation is rendered more certa in owing to the top rol ler

fall ing aga i nst the cap-bar— recessed for the purpose— and trap

ping the thread between rol ler and cap-bar

,the trappi ng act ion

being increased by any pul l there may be on the thread .

Moreover,the t i lt ing backwards of the short top rol ler also

tends to draw the loose leading end of the broken thread out of

the way of entanglement w ith the adjacent bobbins and threads .

Even if the broken thread does become entang led with the

real one ,i t wi l l probably either break itself free or i t may pre

v ent the unbroken end from being drawn forward on its bobbin,

thus caus ing the same to become s lack and al lowing the second

c radle to come into stopping pos i t ion,i n which case the ends

may twist together for a moment unt i l the second is broken off,

and four - fold is prevented .

An addit ional merit claimed for this device is that,when an

end breaks and the rol ler t ips over,a su fficient length of thread

is l eft hang ing from the top rol ler for tying -up purposes , and as

the thread does not run off the top rol ler end all that is necessary

for re- tying is to l ift the roller back into posi t ion . Waste is

diminished by the prevention of rol ler - laps . There is a lso a

benefit ga ined by the surface of the rol lers being damaged bv

cutting roller laps Off ; such injury is bad for working after

wards .

E xtra lVaste from Inferior Cotton .

The profits to be obta ined from us ing a cheaper cotton,and

yet ma intain ing the qua l ity of yarn,and good working Of the

c otton ,are SO very obvious that unfortunately i t is a frequent

THE PRODUCT I ON OF COTTON WASTE . 65

oécurrence,among those not fully real izing the bad effects

,for

such to purchase inferior and more wasty cottons .

Using unripe cotton and unequal mixtures of cotton— whether

done at the gins,presses

,stack mixing in the cotton room

,or

at the lattice of the bale -breaker— will always resul t i n more

fibres flying off the bulk and lodg ing on the rol ler -beams,even

i n the case of mules and ring- frames,apart from losses in the

earlier stages .

In the use of Indian cotton,either in India or elsewhere

,

there is often a tendency to use almost any kind of dilapidated

Opening machinery,which gives unsatisfactory opening and

cleaning and yet permits too much good average fibre to escape .

For such cottons also there is sometimes not sufficient testing

and supervis ion exercised to check inferior del iveries— or cotton

not up to sample .

Beater bars and leaf bars i n the blow - room,and undercasings

on the cards,particularly require skilful and careful attent ion and

adjustment in order to keep the waste i n proper bounds .

Referring to this matter an excellent writer on practice i n

Indian mil ls says“ In a mill producing medium quali ty of 20’

s from a mixing‘

of fully good Khandeish and Guzerat cottons the dead loss (by

which is meant the unusable stuff that is sold in cartloads pro

duced mostly from the blow - room machines,or the willow and

hard and oily yarn waste that is not used over aga i n for lower

counts) should not exceed at the most 14 per cent i n well

managed concerns . It should be about 8 per cent in the blow ‘

room,3 per cent in the card- room

,2 per cent in the spinning- room

and 1 per cent in the reel ing- room .

“ The dead loss includes cotton required for the working of’

lower counts of yarns , such as l0’

s and 12’

s from such waste only

as is produced in the mill . These figures may be sl ightly varied

i n accordance with the cottons and the cl imatic changes that .

occur so frequently in the Bombay mills,the invisible loss being

,

more when the dry easterly winds are blowing, as they have the .

effect of taking away the natural moisture from the fibres,which

are set flying and nothing useful can be gathered from them.

In the case of mixings prepared special ly for warps i n weavi ng mil ls this dead - loss percentage is generally higher by about2 per cent , owing to the seedy nature of the cotton that has to be

66 COTTON WASTE .

used for these mixings . In the case of a mill wholly equipped

with ring- spinning this total should be less by'

% or 4 per cent ,owing to the saving in reel ing waste .

“ The quant ity of usable wastes i n Indian mil ls ranges from

10 to 14 per cent in a ccordance with the class of cotton and

climatic condit ions , i n all well -managed concerns,and should

economical ly be used over again with an admixture of about 50

to 60 per cent of Shorter stapled cottons for about l0’

s and 12’

s .

The good wastes of cards and draw - frames could well be used over

aga i n in the same class of mixings from which they were produced .

Good supervision and careful hands will give reduced waste per

centage . Sometimes in Indian mills i t is found,with slovenly

managers and workers,that hits of clean cotton are Spread on

the floor,trodden about and final ly consigned to the oily sweep

ings and almost given away

Fuller Details of Waste in Indian Mills .

One division of cotton - Spinning mill waste might be as fol

lows :

1. Blowing- room and card - roomwaste .

2. Spinning- room waste .

3 . Waste from the reeli ng and bundli ng departments .

Subdiv is ion of the wastes might be as fol lows

(1) Mixable waste , (2) half -mixable , (3) non-mixable . Mixable

waste includes such as can be used over aga in in the mixings if

treated to a certai n amount of Opening .

The second requires a good dea l of Opening and cleaning and

loses a good dea l of its weight before it can be re-used .

The non-mixable waste must be sold for what it Wi l l fetch .

Droppings of Indian cotton in the blow- room are of somewhat

d ifferent grades , those from the exhaust opener being of a very

d i rty nature,and very l ittle usable stuff can be got from this waste

e ven if treated in the wil low .

The waste that comes from beneath the smal l porcupine

beaters , often used in front of‘

a Crighton beater,conta ins good

fibre stuck fast to the seeds which are often driven out at thisposit ion .

Following this the largest quantity of droppings from the beater

chamber of the vertical Crighton and this is Often rather good for

droppings . Various kinds of grids have been used for the vert i

THE PRODUCT ION OF COTTON WASTE . 67

c al Opener,and the kind of grid is of cons iderable importance .

M in imum loss of good fibre and maximum extraction of seed and

d irt is the ‘

desideratum to be aimed at.

The droppings from the scutcher,even with Indian cotton

,may

usually be opened and cleaned in the willow and used over aga in ,

but the perc entage should only be low i f satisfactory grate bars

are used,and sometimes i t pays to clean such waste before

s elling .

“ The total dead loss of blow - room waste i n Indian mills

depends chiefly upon the class of cotton used and may vary from

12 to 18 per c ent,but when cleaned over again the clean drop

pings fit for being used over again might be from 4 to 8 per cent ,leaving the dead loss to be from 8 to 12 per cent . The principal

c ause of the heavy loss l ies i n the amount of seed in thecottonused .

Lap waste is usual ly returned behind the openers with the

g ood cotton . I t is'

scarcely wise to put in a large quantity of

these lap ends at one t ime as this detrimenta lly affects the working

of the cotton afterwards. Systematic re-use of all good waste

is required rather than quite omitting the waste for a time and

u s ing a lot altogether.

Having all such waste weighed and then spread in layers over

a stack mixing is one of the best methods i n regard to such re

usable waste .

Imperfect Operation .of full- lap knocking-off motions at the

finisher scutchers , the use of bad lap rods , careless piecing of the

laps behind the c ards,large stocks of laps accumulat ing

,and

c onical bui lding of laps,due to irregular fan draughts and lap

li cking,are c auses of lap waste.

It should not be permiss ible in these days of hollow lap rol lers

to leave the Skewering Of the laps until after the lap roller has

been withdrawn, as this inevitably leads to more or less stabbing

of the laps and pushing away portions of the cotton from the cores

o f the laps . Better tai l ends and subsequent piecings of the lapsresult from the proper pract ice of i nserting the lap rods before

removing the hollow rollers . A check should be placed upon

putting in a fresh lap when there yet rema ins a yard or two of

the old one on the lap rod. Lap waste , even i n Indian mills,

s hould not exceed 71; per cent of the good cotton.

Fly is the next semi- usable waste found underneath the cards .

68 COTTON WASTE .

It consists largely of neps and short fibres . Its quantity dependsupon the class of cotton in process

,the state of the card fil lets and

that of the undergrids . The chief aim i n this connexion is to

al low just sufiicient to fal l out as may be requ ired for the qual i ty

of the yarn . Wire out of condit ion,bad design and improper

setting of undergrids , will al low good fibre to escape . In some

Indian mills l icker- in undercasings are dispensed with,but this

makes too much waste .

Licker- in dropping s make the worst waste from a card,that

from beneath the cyl i nder and doffer being Of a better character .

Strips always conta in good fibre .

Waste from the various bobbin and fly- frames is of the re

usable k ind even in the same mill,but should be sl ightly opened

in the‘

machines Specially designed for the purpose . I t is not

the best practice to Open this kind of waste on the willow or even

on the ordinary scutcher,al though some do i t on the ordinary

Opener with reasonable success . The scutcher blade -beaters tend

to string the cotton and unduly weaken the fibre . Unless very

judiciously and carefully mixed,i t is probably the case that re-use

of bobbin waste , even after special treatment,tends to weaken the

yarn,because the excessive treatment of the cotton fibres has

tended to weaken them . In regard to the fly- frames i n Indian

mills i t has been found that causes of excessive waste are the

use of i nferior - cotton,i nsufficient twist i n the rovings or slub

bings,carelessness in regard to the change wheels and wrappings

,

ratching of the ends i n winding-ou,bad distribution of the roller

drafts,unskilful fitting and adjustment of the parts

,excessive

speeds of Spindle,use of bad oil

,or inattention to oiling and

cleaning. Again quoting the writer above referred to“ A prol ific cause of extra waste i n many Indian mills is due

to the carelessness of frame attendants i n allowing pieces of good

waste to l ie on the floor until i t is trodden on and made dirty .

The floors are often so greasy that the waste becomes qui te spoiled

Which would otherwise be sui table for the same or lower countsof yarn in the same mill . In many cases tenters of bobbin and

fly- frames are made to wear large canvas pockets for holding

the clean waste and these Should be used for the proper purpose . It

is quite common for the top and bottom clearer waste on fly- framesto average from to A} per cent , or even more in bad cases , andthis waste is quite unusable i n the mill and must be sold . Other

THE PRODUCT ION OF COTTON WASTE . 69

non-mixable waste from the frame - room consists of sweepingswhich may be divided into better and worse s orts .

“ In the spinning- room it is probable that the chief item cons ists of underclearer waste or

‘ crow ’ waste,as i t is often termed

in Lancashire,or Bondas ’ i n India . Natural ly this waste repre

s ents very considerable loss to the concern,owing to its having

gone through all the mill processes . An excessive amount of thiswaste may indicate the use of a very poor qual ity of cotton

,or

c areless and unskilful work in making the rovings or creel bob

bins ,or gross carelessness of the spinners i n al lowing broken

threads to rema in broken to an i nordinate extent . This is inevitably accompan ied by great loss in production from the spinningmachines

,s ince the waste rea l ly should have gone into yarn ,

as i tis practi cal ly free from impurit ies. Reduced wages and extra

work a lso lead to the spinners and piercers absenting themselves .

There are very many variet ies of Indian cotton ,and reckless

c hanging and mixing of these often leads to the evils j ust referred

to,while another prolific cause is the frequent changing of the

a tmospheri c conditions . The proper use of art ificial humidifiers,

and proper care and use of the hygrometrical i nstruments,wil l

do a good deal towards min imising the variat ions in cl imate .

Coarse rovings which require large rol ler drafts , i nat tention to

c l eaning, oil ing , and repair ing the rol lers,unskilfulness in the

adjustment of the rol lers , and excessive Spindle speeds are other

c auses of excessive clearer waste . Clearer waste from 20’

s yarn

is very often used over again for l0’

s or12’

s yarn,and is genera l ly

v ery clean and soft . There may be trouble with hard ends , but

machines are ava i lable even for extracting these i f it be considered

advisable . It is probable that these hard threads are much more

p reval ent in underclearer waste from mules than from ring- frames

because of the great l ength from spindle point to rol lers in a

mule with the carriage partial ly or ent irely run out when the

threads break . This feature is accentuated by the fact that a

mule Spinner removes his was te in lumps over the end of the

c l earer— taken out for the purpose , whereas a ring- spinner may pull

the waste off in bits without removing the clearer . Calculated

on the weight of yarn spun,clearerrwaste from ring- frames may

reach 3 to 37} per cent , and on mules 2 to 24 per cent in Indian

Imills for about 20’

s .

“Roving waste is an appreciable i tem from Spinning machines,

70 COTTON WASTE .

being due to ‘s ingl e ’

and thick ’ rovings pul led off the bobbins,

loose ends of roving made in creeling and in piecing broken bob

bins,remnants of roving cut off the bobbins when the latter are

nearly run empty,nearly empty bobbins knocking about the floor ,

Roving waste may reach 4 per cent or more on the weight of yarn

produced .

A third distinct item of waste from mules and ring- frames

consists of hard waste,under which heading may be included

spoiled COps , smal l portions of COpS or cop bottoms,piecing -up

waste and waste due to having breakdowns i n which all the

threads have been broken . Careless dofling , and threads remain

ing broken for a timeand then making nicked cops or run under

cop bottoms are causes of such waste,as also may be the use of

bad starch for the cop bot toms or careless appl ication of the

same . Hard waste may be used over again in those mills

provided with machinery Special ly adapted for the purpose,and

is frequently sold at a fair rate for this purpose . Reeler’s waste

belongs to the same category as spinner’

s hard waste .

Double Yarn on Ring-frames .

The restriction and prevention of this has often troubled

foremen over ring- frames everywhere,and is much more trouble

some when rollers have two threads per boss than with single

thread bosses . E ven with good spinning it is necessary to use

good,well - rounded and well -covered clearers to reduce double

yarns to a minimum . If clearers are worn or rough at the ends

they may cause double yarn , because if a thread breaks the clearer

does not take it properly and there is a tendency for broken

threads to run on adjoining Spindles . A Sl ight amount of

cotton on the traveller clearer wil l break a thread and the lat ter

may then catch ° in the next thread and cause double . If the

steel rol lers are very forward in relation to the Spindles there is

an i ncreased tendency for broken threads to run into the next .

threads and make double . High - speed rollers throw broken

threads on next threads more than low speeds .

72 COTTON WASTE .

Roving Waste Opening .

One of the strongest developments of recent years in connexion

with the re - using of cotton waste in the same mills has been the

adoption of special ly- designed machines for the first treatment of

bobbin waste,either combined with Special means for properly

blending the reopened roving gra dual ly and continuously withthe new cotton

,or leaving the waste to be spread on the mixings

by hand . In regard to the actual open ing of the bobbin wastesome spinners have just been content with rigging up a rough

machine with any kind of beater which they happened to have on

the premises,or could get for next to nothing . In other cases

either an ordinary carding engine has been kept on the treatmentof roving waste cont inual ly

, or else certain al terations have been

made to the card to suit the waste . Pass ing the waste about

three times through an ordinary Opener has been found sat is

factory with some firms and is considered to preserve the strength

Of the fibres very well .

Modern Roving Waste Openers.

After any amount of experimenting and testing,i t has been

generally agreed that the best treatment for bobbin waste cons ists in putt ing it through a machine which has for its central

feature a cyl inder covered with a multitude of fine-pointed

spikes,very much after the style we have described for the

treatment of cop bottom or hard waste . Indeed,this kind of

beater or cylinder appears to be rapidly becoming pre - eminentfor the re- l inking of a lmost any of the finer texti le wastes i nto

which either twist at the roving frame or final spinning twist hasbeen imparted . Certa in machine-makers have obtained quite a

reputation for this kind of machine,and others Of the leading tex

t ile machinists are recognizing that a permanent and extended

pos it ion for modern roving waste Openers is assured,and have

begun to make the machines .

In a manner of Speaking,the accepted form of roving waste

opener may be said to cons ist essentially of a beater of the kind

above referred to,combined with apparatus and mechanism for

properly feeding and delivering the waste . A lmost i nvariably

the feed and delivery appear to proceed at a very slow rate,which

admirably suits the required condition of only very gradually

TREATMENT OF COTTON WASTES IN SPINNING MILLS. 73

m ixing the waste with the fresh cotton ,whi le i t also permits of

extended treatment of the cotton by the cylinder .

Referring now to a Specific example which the present writer

examined at work,this machine was fitted with a l icker - in

,a

feature not found in all of these roving waste Openers . There

can be no doubt that the applicat ion of the l icker - in will very

considerably increase the ability of the machine to thoroughly re

Open the waste,and especially i f a good quantity of waste is

passed through in one week,thus l imit ing the capacity of the mai n

cylinder . The licker - in a ids in attain ing the definite object of

opening the waste to such an extent that it can be blended with the

raw cotton,and passed therewith through the Openers and scutch

ers without fear of having much ,i f any,

trouble with the waste

at the carding engine,and without damaging the card wire . As

to whether the waste will in any way make the finished yarn worse,

that will depend on the amount used in proportion to the raw cotton

weight,the kind of yarn that is the accepted standard ,

and genera l

a ttention to detai ls . The feed - lattice of the machine . is 3 feet

long by 224 inches wide . The waste is fed to the licker - in by a

s ingle feed - roller and pedals,the latter being carried on an eccentric

shaft,which helps in mainta in ing a strictly paral lel arrangement

of all the pedals with the face of the taker -in. It is considered

that this system of pedals 1s an improvement on the system of

us ing two coarsely fluted feed - rol lers,as i t prevents the cotton

from being pulled from the feed - roller i n tufts when there is a thin

place in the feed . This is practical ly an imitation of the practice

that some people found beneficial i n regard to the feeding of the

c otton to some bale - breakers of the rol ler type,before such

machines were displaced by Hopper bale -Openers . Absolute

rigidity of the principal working organs is essent ial i n a machine

of this kind,and all the facings

,j oints

,pedestals and brackets are

s teady- pinned in position where it is deemed advisable . The

taker - in— as well as the cylinder— is fitted with self- lubricat ing

bearings . This taker- in is 94 i nches diameter , and is built uponthe m etal l ic principle

,with sufficiently hard and tempered teeth .

Its average speed is much greater than that of the taker - in of a

c arding engine , reaching , as a matter of fact,up to about 1300

revolutions per minute,as compared with more like 400 revo

utions per minute on a card . In this particular example the

c ylinder is two feet diameter,and is covered with beech lags

,fitted

74 COTTON WASTE .

with tempered,polished teeth . The lags are firmly bolted to the

cylinder,and have their ends secured by two wrought- iron rings

It may be explai ned that the Opened waste is stripped from the

taker - in by the cyl inder,and this transference of fibres exercises.

a beneficia l i nfluence in opening the cotton . After leaving the

cylinder,the cotton waste passes on to a strong wire cage

,and.

thence upon a del ivery lattice,and i n a great many cases loosely

upon the floor,or into skips

,ready for mixing with the raw

cotton . Such a machine is made by Messrs . Brooks and Doxeyand is shown in Figs . 6 and 7 .

Delivery of Waste.

Regarding the del ivery of the opened waste , however , i t wi l l

be worth while to g ive a l ittl e space to a special consideration

24’

CYLINDERDELIVERY LATTICE 4

'

PRESS ROLLER

o LATTlCE

TTICE BLOCKS

4'

LATTICE 8

FIG . 6 .—Roving Waste Opener.

of this point . As a matter of fact,practice varies considerably in;

regard to this detail . The original method,as above ment ioned

,

of del ivering the cotton loosely upon the floor,and afterwards

mixing it with fresh cotton,has been seriously objected to by

some people , and recently it has become a very common practice

to have the Opened roving waste del ivered directly to the exhaustopener

,or else to the mixing lattices or the hoppers .

Blending of the lVaste from Roving Opener.

I t must be understood that under the genera l term of“ roving

waste Opener we have a machine which serves equal ly for thebobbin waste from slubbers

,intermediates

,rovers

,or mules

,

al though the thinner and harder twisted roving waste requires

more treatment than slubbing waste,so that while 50 lb . per

hour of slubbing waste could be Opened effectively,only about

half that weight of roving waste could be Opened . In any case ,

TREATMENT OF COTTON WASTES IN SPINNING MILLS. 75

there has always been more or less annoyance and trouble con

nected with the blending of Considerable quantities of Opened

bobbi n waste with the raw cotton when the waste has been

delivered on the floor or in skips from the roving opener,and

afterwards mixed with the cotton . D ifficul ty has arisen i n obta in

ing a thorough and equal blending and incorporat ion of the waste

with the raw cotton,and the introduction of Hopper ba le - Openers

and feeders i ncreased rather than diminished this evi l,particularly

in cases i n which the stack mixing of cotton h ad been abandoned .

Method 1,

— Assuming the Hopper bale - breaker to be used,

but no stack mixings to be made,the usual way is for the attend

ant to pass a certai n amount of the Opened waste along with the

raw cotton into the bale - breaker . Experience has d emonstrated

that‘

average results are not reliable from this practi ce,as many

attendants do not take pains to feed the waste in always equa l

proportion . Perhaps to a somewhat less extent the same objec

tion applies if stack mixings are made and the waste is passed

into stack mixings a long with the raw cotton . The objection .

applies much the same if the waste is first made into separate

laps upon the scutcher,and then these laps unrol led and spread

across the mixings . It is self-evident to anyone possess i ng any

knowledge of cotton spinning that unequal blending of the waste ,which causes some card laps and sl ivers to conta in a good pro

portion of the waste,while other laps and sl ivers contai n scarcely

any waste , can l ead only to irregular work at the machines,and

an irregular finished yarn . Whatever the standard of qual ityaimed at in spinni ng cotton yarns , it is a cardinal principle thatall reasonable pains should be taken to ma intain tha t standard as

uni formly as possible . All this is now wel l understood by our

cotton spinners and machinery makers,and during recent years

two or three systems have been more or less extens ively adopted

by which uniform and continuous blending of the waste and raw

cotton is obtained by mechanica l means .

Method —In the case of this second and more improved

method of mixing the waste with the raw cotton,a del ivery pipe

is connected with the roving waste Opener,and is also connected

with the main cotton conducting pipe or long exhaust feed trunk

of the exhaust Opener . The waste enters into this trunk slowlyand continuously , and i n this way a very intimate blending ofwaste and new cotton is obtained . In a specific example the

76 COTTON WASTE .

roving waste is passed through a waste opener fitted with a

regulator to aid i n uniform feeding ,but which is Optional ly ap

plied . Preferably this machine is a lso fitted with a suitable

stopping and start ing arrangement , and is connected by means

of long rods,l evers

,and wires to the feed parts of the exhaust

opener and the long exhaust feed - trunk,so that there Shal l be

s imultaneous stopping and s tart ing of all these parts . The waste

Opener del ivers the waste to a tin pipe 4 in . or so i n diameter,

which is pieced up directly to the 9 in . diameter principal exhaus t

feed - trunk . A stop valve is appl ied to the 4 in . wast e pipe,so

that waste and air can easi ly be shut Off from entering at this

point . I t may be as well to point out that the combination of a

waste opener with an ordinary cotton opener does not compel the

coupling up of the 4 in . pipe. to the exhaust 9 in . pipe,si nce the

4 i n . pipe may del iver its waste contents directly to the beater

chamber of almost any kind of large beater or cyl inder .

Method 3 .

— It may be cla imed that an advantage of No . 2

method is tha t the opened waste does not need to be passed

through the hopper feeder or be placed on the mixing . There

are many people,however

,who prefer to have the opened waste

incorporated with the stack mixing i f such be used,and even

i f i t be not used prefer mixing of the waste at an earl ier stage

than in Method 2. AS a consequence a third method has been

somewhat extens ively adopted during recen t years . In this case

a very Slow del ivery latt ice arrangement is provided for receiving

the Opened waste from the waste Opener,and is itself made to

del iver the waste to some part of mechanism or lattice work which

conveys the new cotton from bale Opener to stack mixing . For

example,a double elevating lattice may l ift the waste and deposi t

the same s lowly and uniformly upon the distributing mixing

lattices at any convenient point . Yet,aga in

,i n a particular case

recently examined by the writer,the opened waste was delivered

upon the bottom delivery lattice of the hopper bale -breaker,and

was then taken up by the elevating lattices along'

with the raw

c otton . As a sl ight deviation from this particular practice,i t is

possible to arrange a del ivery to the wa ste opener,and have this

pipe leading to a condenser on the hopper bale - breaker,or the

hopper feeder,when the roving waste opener can be placed con

veniently i n pos ition near the part icular hOpper machine used forthe combinat ion . In reference to the cylinder

,i t is more or less

TREATMENT OF COTTON WASTES IN SPINN ING MILLS . 77

the pract ice to have the cyl inder cover fitted with a self- lockingmotion

,which prevents the cyl inder cover from being Opened

when the machine is working,and on the other hand prevents

the cyl inder from being started aga in while the cover is up .

E xcessive Use of Waste.

A short t ime ago the writer had submitted to him a sample

of American cotton in order to give an Opinion as to the suita

bility of this cotton for spinning a certa in cohnt of yarn,because

very bad spinn ing was being obtained from the cotton . Incident

al ly it transpired that all the crow laps from the spinning machineswere being extensively used in the mixings of raw cotton . This

appears to be a typical case of the misguided re-use of wastein the spinn ing mil l . A firm using raw cotton not good enough

for the yarns to be spun,and then depreciating it by inter -mixing

all the underclearer waste from the Spinn ing machines with

the raw cotton . There is a vast difference between crow - lap

waste and roving waste,the latter being quite free from hard

threads,while the crow - laps are ful l of them . This is SO true

that a separate and special machine is used for separating the

hard ends from the underclearer waste of mules and ring frames,

and we wil l briefly describe this machine later on .

The Cylinder Lags of Roving Waste Opener.

We have stated that a typ ical modern roving waste opener

consists of a feed lattice,press rol lers , feed rol ler, pedals below

the feed rol ler,a 9 i n . or 94 in . taker- in,

a 24 in . cyl inder,a

stripping plate,a 12 in . cage , and a del ivery lattice . A well

known machine is made by Messrs . Brooks and Doxey,and

these makers are prepared to supply any one of three grades of

spiked lags for the principal cyl inder

1. Lags with round polished steel teeth of coarse pitch .

2. Lag s with flat polished stee l teeth of coarse pitch . I t isclaimed these lags have greater opening power on the cotton

waste than lags with round teeth .

3 . Lags with flat pol ished steel teeth of fine pitch . It is

claimed that these lags have the greatest opening power of any

kind,and their adoption is strongly advised for treat ing rovings

from E gyp tian cotton ,and especial ly if these are as high in counts

as 12 hank,or finer .

78 COTTON WASTE .

It may be noted that the cage above referred to and the del ivery

latt ice are dispensed with i f the roving waste opener is l inked by

a del ivery pipe to a condenser fixed on the hopper bale -breaker or

hopper feeder . (See Figs . 6 and

The Gearing .

The receiving pul ley on the cyl inder shaft is usual ly 12 in .

diameter by 4} in . wide for 4 In . belt,and a high working cyl inder

speed is 800 revolutions per minute. It is recommended to bedriven from a separate counter - shaft with fast and loose pul leys .

The feed and del ivery ends are driven from the taker- in,on which

M G PULLEY12‘ x 4 ?

13'

x 2l'

4'

FIG . 7 .— P lan of Roving Waste Opener.

is a 3 in . diameter pulley driving to 13 i n . fast and loose pulleysto convey the driving to the feed and del ivery gearing .

A stripping plate may be extended across the face of the

cylinder to aid i n cleaning the waste from the steel spikes . The

cylinder cover may be fitted with a self- locking arrangement,

which prevents the cover from being Opened while the waste

Opener is at work,and also prevents the machine from being

started aga i n until the c over is put down .

As regards the kind of lags and spikes,i t may be added that

for roving up to 5 hank not highly twisted the round pol ished

and coarsely pitched Spikes may be recommended,but not for

any finer hank . It is usually found best to deposi t the Openedroving waste on the Short hori zontal bottom latticexwhich trans

80 COTTON WASTE .

such waste for twist yarns when the raw cotton is real ly not good

enough for the twist yarns . It must not be understood that we

condemn the re-mixture of crow waste i n all cases . On the con

trary,weft yarns of rather low or medium counts

'

will often stand

very well with such a mixing,and i t must always be remembered

that pin cop weft yarns have comparat ively little stra in placed upon

them in the weaving processes . Such yarns may go directly from

Spinning machine to loom,whereas warp yarns must undergo

the stra ins of winding,warping

,possibly sizing

,and afterwards

must res ist the wear and tear incidenta l to opening and clos ing

w an na-«arr cooREYS

M LEVS to x3 ‘s

FIG . 9 .— Out l ine View of Thread Extractor.

the Shed and beat ing up the weft at the loom . Just as i n the case

of roving waste , so also have special machines been introduced to

aid i n the preparation of underclearer waste from mules and ringframes , so that this waste may be used over aga in . These ma

chines are very Simple and i ngenious , and have recei ved a fair

amount of adoption ,but are not nearly so largely adopted as roving

waste openers , nor are they quite as successful in attaining the

desired end . The Obj ect of an automat ic thread extractor is to

mechanical ly pick the hard ends or threads from the clearer or

crow waste made upon ring frames or mules , especially in regard

to American and short -fibred cottons . In a well - attended recent

meeting of an important body of practica l mil l men at which the

TREATME NT OF COTTON WASTES IN SP INNING MILLS. 81

writer was present , i t was generally agreed that the thread ex

tractor was not an absolute success i n connexion with Egyptian

long- stapled cotton . Granted that the hard ends can be effectively

separated and extracted from the crow laps without injury to the

waste general ly,there appears no reason to think such waste

would be very detr imental to the yarn in re-working . Under

clearer or crow waste is largely composed of the best of the

cotton which has successively passed through“

all stages of cotton

Spinning,excepting the last one of all

,and were it not for the

broken twisted threads which often run in with this waste , the

latter would be very good stuff,in spite of the presence of bad

ends rubbed off the iron rollers . Every one knows that twisted

threads often break off at the mule during winding-on,and then

either wind round the cops or else wind round the underclearers .

Neither is ring crow waste by any means free from this part i

cular defect . Hence the invention of the particular machine

under discussion . I t certai nly does its work quicker and more

efficiently than the average hand labour ; and crow laps from

American cotton wi l l work very well after treatment by this

machine,and especially i f weft yarns are being used .

It is quite possible to feed the thread extractor by hand but

the makers recommend automat i c feeding . The waste is de

l ivered from the machine i n a fleecy condi t ion ,and i t is possible

either to feed it directly to the Opener or deposit i t upon the

mixing of raw cotton in a properly graduated and proport ionate

manner . Apart from the automatic feeding,the centra l feature

and acting principle of the machine consists of a waste shaft and

specia l ly formed smal l beaters near this shaft . The hard ends .

are left wrapped round the steel waste shaft,which is placed in

the centre of the machine and is provided with grooves , which

faci l itate the ready cutti ng Off of the hard ends . The waste shaft .

and the beaters run in wide beari ngs provided with ample lubri

cat ing facil ity . The beaters are made of the best cast- steel, and

are perfectly smooth and wel l polished . As may be expected

nowadays,a safety cover is appl ied to the beaters to prevent li ft

ing while the heaters are working . The thread extracting shaft.is chased from end to end

,and has four longitudinal grooves to

facil itate the stripping of the hard ends . I l lustrations of Messrs .

Brooks and Doxey’

s well -known machine are given in figs . 10

and 11.

82 COTTON WASTE .

Automatic Feed.

The addition of the automat ic feeder to the thread extract ing

machine adds somewhat to the first cost,and makes the machine

a l i ttle more complicated , but the following advantages may be

claimed for its use

COUNTER SHAFT Ct!6 8 0 REVSBLAISD E LL FE E D HOPPE R

WOOD ROLL.

DlA

RACK

UADRA

E SNAP? ro DelveLAISOELL FE E D

OTTON

SHAFT TO DRIVE18‘

x 1in“

TO omve CAGEsu usou r 5 5 5 0

IF VHTHOUT BLALSO€ LL FE E D CED‘JC‘ l 6'

F IGS . 10 and 11.—Thread Extractor.

1. It prevents overfeeding,and diminishes or quite prevents

the beaters from choking .

2. It saves the t ime of the operat ive,and al lows the operat ive

TREATMENT OF COTTON WASTES IN SPINNING MILLS. 83

to attend better to other dut ies,such as removing the picked

waste and bringing up fresh waste for picking .

3 . It is very important that the crow waste be fed slowly and

uniformly in order to get uniform and efficient extract ion of the

hard ends,and the automatic feeder atta ins this end much better

than the average hand - feeding .

Process of Recovering Good Cotton from Carding EngineStrips.

The fol lowing note is reproduced without alterat ion from a

c ircular issued by Messrs . Hetheri ngton,makers of the Nasmith

Comber :“ The whole of the strips produced are put through the

blowing- room or such machines i n the blowing - room as may benecessary to make fa irly regular laps . These laps are then put

through the card in the ordinary way and made intozsliver, which ,

a fter pass ing through one head of drawing - frame,is put through

the sl iver lap machine and made into comber laps 104 in . wide ;or

,i n cases where a ribbon lap machine is i nstalled

,the passage

through the drawing- frame is el iminated and the sl iver carried

direct to the sl iver lap machine and made into a lap of which SIX

a re doubled in the r ibbon lap machine . These laps are then put

through the Nasmith Comber and made into Sl iver,which is put

up at the first or second head of drawing a long with the ordinary

carded sl iver in the proportion of one end of combed strips to five

ends of ordinary carded sl iver . The yarn produced from s l iver

conta in ing this mixture wil l,i f the process has been properly

carried out,be found to be Sl ightly stronger than the ordinary

yarn .

“ In various tests we have made,both on machines at our

works and in actual working i n the mill , we find that we are

a lways able to recover upwards of 60 per cent of good stock out

of the original weight of strips dealt with .

The following are figures based on an actua l result i n a mil l

s pinning average 40’

s ring twist , American cotton , viz“ Cotton costs 7d. per lb .

Strips sold at 34d. per lb .

Value of ordinary carded s l iver made from 7d. cotton, 8d .

per lb .

Production of strips per week ,3000 lb .

84 COTTON WASTE .

3000 lb . put through blowing - room and card loses 17 percent i n waste , leaving 24 90 lb . sl iver .

2490 lb . sl iver put through Nasmith Comber loses 23 percent in waste , leaving 1917 lb . of combed strips .

The original 3000 lb . of strips have thus produced 1917 lb

of sl iver , at least equa l i n va lue to ordinary carded Sl iver,and

1083 lb . waste of various sorts , probably worth at least 1d. per lb .

all round . Thus we have

1917 lb . of sl iver at 8d. per lb .

1083 lb . of waste at 1d. per lb .

16 ,419d.

Cost of 3000 lb . of strips at 3%d per lb . 10,500d.

Leavi ng a gross profit of 5,919d.

,i.e. £24 13s . 3d.

Addit ional plant required for this process for a mill of this

si ze would be one Sl iver Lap Machine , three Nasmith Patent

Combers . And the additional maximum amount for wages would

be £1 perWeek .

No addit ional blowing or carding machinery is required,as

,

assuming that the card mom is producing sufficient to keep all

Spindles at work ,Whatever additiona l weight 1s put through In the

form of combed strips may be deducted from the raw cotton

formerly put through the blowing- room,so that the total weight

going through remains approximately the same, and the only

addit ional wages and power required are for the four machinesmentioned above .

“ The charges for i nterest and depreciat ion on the capital ex

penditure i nvolved ,power

,wages

,and margin for contingencies

,

would be,say, £3 per week , which deducted from the above gross.

profit leaves a net profit of per week £21 13s . 3d.

Letter on Cotton Mill Waste.

In answer to a query a former student of the author’

s wrote

as fol lows“ Fi rst of all

,l et i t be understood that I make no attempt to

say what a certain waste may be used for, any further than what

I have seen for myself . I i ntend to deal wi th the following waste,

and first of all to say what machines i t passes through and also

TREATMENT OF COTTON WASTES IN SPINNING MILLS. 85

what it is used for,and then

,last of all

,to describe the machines

I have mentioned . Cop bottoms,card fly

,card strips

,comber

waste,sl iver waste

,bobbin waste

,clearer waste from mule

,washed

waste (hard) , washed waste (soft) .“ Card Fly— I have seen this willowed and mixed with card

s trips and Spun the same as under the heading of card strips and

a lso I have seen i t used through the same machi nes as clearer

waste . This is used for blankets which are - treated to a ra ising

p rocess .

Card Strips — I have seen American strips mixed with bobbin

waste and this mixing has Spun 16’

s,having passed through the

following machines (the bobbin waste having previously passedthrough a two cylinder machine for breaking up) : (1) Hopper

bale breaker delivering to mixings . From the mixings the cotton

is put through an exhaust Opener with hopper feeder and 24 in .

c ylinder through a trunk to a Crighton bea ter . The Crighton

opener feeds automatically three Openers with hOpper feeders .

These openers make laps,four of which are fed to each finisher

s cutcher,the lap from the scutcher being fed to a revolving flat

c ard,through two heads of draw - frames

,one slubber

,one rove

,

and then'

to a coarse mule . This was used as weft for sa i lcloth .

Comber Waste— This will Spin up to about 20’

s or so. I

h ave seen this kind of waste used as ordinary cotton,having

passed through the following machines . Waste scutcher with

h opper feeder,and one cyl inder and one beater ; four laps from

this were fed to the finisher scutcher . Other machines as for

c ard strips . Also I have seen it passed through waste machinery

as follows : Waste scutcher as above,finisher scutcher

,breaker

c ard with Side drawing,through a D erby doubler making hal f width

laps,two of which are placed Side by s ide at the feed of the

fi nisher card,this fitted with Single condenser . The condenser

bobbins being placed at the back of the mule . The comber waste

i s used for quiltings and sometimes used for the imitation of wool

when mixed with cop bottoms .

“ Sliver Waste—This is the waste made at the card,comber

,

a nd draw- frames,and is general ly used up again at the same mill .

Bobbin Waste— This is the waste made at the fly- frames

a nd the mule . This is general ly used at the same mill,but some

is sold as stated above .

“ Clearer Waste— This is got from the mule and the r ing

86 COTTON WASTE .

frame, and is passed through a two- cyl inder breaking-up machine ,

through a waste scutcher with a hopper feed and two beaters .

TWO laps from scutcher being fed to the breaker card ,which is

fitted with the side drawing for Scotch feed which feeds the finisher

card . The condenser bobbin from finisher card being placed in

the creel of the waste mul e or the cup- frame . This kind of waste

is used for heavy raised blankets .

COp Bottoms — This is the waste made by COp winders and

weavers and is put through the following machines : E ight

cyl inder breaking - up machine with soaper attached . Through

waste scutcher,two laps of which are fed to breaker card fitted

with Scotch feed . Through the finisher card to the waste spinning

mul e . This waste is general ly used to imitate woollen goods,such

as blankets,and when raised giving the best imitation possible .

Sometimes i t is used for plai n work .

“ Washed lVaste (Hard) .— This is the dirty waste made,for

example,i n wet doubling mills

,and is generally bought by the

waste dealers,who have it washed , or bleached ,

or dyed . Thisis passed through the same machines as Cop bottoms

,excepting

the waste mule being sometimes subst ituted by the Chapon

frame . This waste is sometimes used for dyeing,which is done

after leaving the mule or cup - frame,i f i t has only been washed .

The cops from these machines being reeled,then dyed

,then

wound into cheeses either double or si ngle thread . If two or

three threads are doubled together they are of different colours,

thus making a Granderelle yarn . The cheeses are then put on a

cup- frame and twisted

,the cops from the cup

- frame being put

i n the shuttle of the loom and are often used for headings of

blankets . Sometimes blankets are made entirely from Granderelle

yarn of all shades and colours, g iving a grand effect when raised .

lV ashed Waste (Soft) .— This is the sweepings up which are

put through a picker and then possibly washed . Sometimes ,however , they are not washed at all

,being put through the ma

chines as received,first through the willow and other machines

as for c learer waste . If washed it is put through the same

machines but omitting the willow . This also was used for

blankets .

“ Having thus put down the kinds of waste I have seen

worked , I wil l now describe the machinery I have mentioned .

The lVillowQ—This consi sts of a cylinder fitted with Spikes

88 COTTON WASTE .

waste . The latter is composed of roll er - laps and the fly which

accumulates on the carriage creels,etc .

,and the amount var ies

considerably .

Occas ional ly cop bottoms have to be doffed in varying

s i zes and these are bagged separately. If on tubes and only a

smal l amount on they are put in the waste paper .

In the spinning—room there are manv bands and i t is com

mon for as much as 80 lb . per week in a medium mil l to go as

waste . They suffer the same fate as cop bottoms .

“ At one time it was better to wash,steam and mangle the

o i ly waste , but now its value is not decreased through oil.“Waste is usual ly bought by a dealer . The price does not

vary l ike cotton and contracts are made for months ahead . Whenthe dealer gets it he sorts i t and tests and marks i t and some

deal ers have plant for willowing and cleaning .

“ Some kinds of waste are Spread over the floor and then left

for a time to the tender mercies of a sulphur stove . This is the

cause of many fires . Sometimes the s tove is in a room under

neath and the cotton is Spread over a floor perforated with holes .

This is to get the impurit ies out and to bleach the cotton .

CHAPTER III .

THE O PENING AND CLEAN ING OF COTTON WASTE

Summary of Machines More or Less Used in the Treatment ofCotton lVaste.

1

1. Oldham Willow .

2,Hard -waste or COp

-bottom machines contai ning from one

to eight picker cyl inders .

3 . The Crighton opener .

4 . Single scutchers forWide laps .

5 . Various machines constructed from old cotton opening and

c leaning machines .

6 . Soaping apparatus applied to cop -bottom machine .

7 . Hopper feed to breaker carding engine .

8 . Breaker carding engine with rollers and clearers .

9 . Scotch feed .

10 . Latt i ce feeders .

11. D erby doubler .

12. Fin isher carding engine.

13 . Condensers of var ious descr ipt ions applied to finisher card .

14 . Finisher cards with manifold coiler system .

15 . Roller and clearer carding engines discarded from cotton

spinning mil ls , equipped with condensers and waste card feeding

and del ivery arrangements and used in the waste trade .

16 . Occasional use of one fly- frame in the preparat ion system .

17 . Self -acting mules with woollen mule headstocks .

18 . Self- acting mules with cotton headstocks .

19 . Self-acting mules without drawing rol lers .

20 . Self-act ing mules with drawing rollers .

21. Chapon spinning frames .

22 Can Spinning frames .

3 R ing spinning frames with draught rol lers .

1The reader is referred to the appendix for addit iona l remarks on manyof these machines .

90 COTTON WASTE .

24 . Roving waste openers .

25 . Combers for card strips .

Possible Systems of Machinery,in Using Cotton Waste

System 1. Hard-waste,Cop

-Bottoms,etc — The author has

prepared the fol lowing summary of systems that may be used

1 . Hard -waste breaking machine,made with any number Of

cyl i nders up to about eight , the six—cyl inder machine being a very

good one and more economica l i n use than,say,

putting the same

waste through a three - cylinder machine twice over .

When the waste is clean,as i n the case of ordinary COp

bottoms,this cylinder machine is sufficient without the Wi llow or

the Crighton . This cylinder machine may be fitted with a soaping

arrangement and del iver the cot ton loosely .

2. Single scutcher with hopper feeder taking the cotton from

the waste mixing after pass ing the cylinder machine . The

scutcher usual ly makes a wide lap , say 48 in . ,and Should be fitted

with a regulat ing motion of the li nk type (without bowl -box) inorder to obta i n laps as regular as poss ible for the breaker carding

engine .

The draught should be a down -draught and i t wil l probably be

found advantageous to arrange the lap end framing to hold a

creel to contai n several bobbins,sl ivers or threads of some sort

which may run i n with the lap during formation and thus prevent

subsequent lap - l i cking . A less troublesome method of preventinglap

- l i cking than this would be to swing a drag-board from the

framing and a llow this drag-board to rub on the lap during the

formation of the latter . I t is poss ible to arrange a device of this

ki nd so that the Winding up of the weighted vertica l lap racks also

pushes the hinged door out of the way. In some cases scutchers .

with picker beaters are used at this stage instead of the ordinaryscutchers .

3 . Breaker carding engine fitted with extended feed lattice

capable of holding two of the laps from the scutcher— one behind

the other,i n order to help i n giving sufficient uniformity to the

condensed sl ivers produced from the finisher card . This systemof lap

- doubling also a ids in securing a good admixture of the

waste .

Card 48 i n . on the wire,special arrangements of feed - rol lers

give a good grip to the short waste— possi bly covered with.

92 COTTON WASTE .

1. Oldham Wi l low ,the distinctive feature of which is a large

diameter cyl inder,possibly 56 in . width

,fitted with strong blunt

Spikes or teeth,capable of g reat cleaning and Shaking effect

,but

not smal l and sharp enough for hard waste . The dirty cotton

rema i ns longer under the action of this large beater than is

c ustomary in other openers,and hence the cleaning capacity .

2. Sometimes the waste is then put through a single Crighton

Opener arranged probably to del iver the cotton loosely on the

floor,but often this Crighton is omitted when the Wi llow is used .

3 . Single scutcher with or without hopper feed arrangement

and as previously described .

4 . Single breaker carding engine which is sometimes fitted

up with an automatic hopper feeder,thus permitting the cotton

to be fed in a loose state and obviating the necessi ty of ever

making the waste into laps .

5 . A side -drawing and Scotch feeding arrangement which

automatical ly conveys the cotton from the breaker card and feedsthe material to the breaker card without the use of the Derby

doubler . By using the hopper feeder to the card the cotton

need never be made into laps,and by us ing the Scotch feed the

cotton need never be made into the form of sl ivers,and card cans

need not be used .

The Scotch or cross feed is very largely used ,but the hOpper

feed on the carding engine is at present only moderately used ,i n

E ngland at any rate .

6 . Si ngle rol ler and clearer finisher carding engine much as

elsewhere described and fitted with any suitable form of con

denser .

7 . For these low classes of waste e ither the self - acting mule,

the can- spinning- frame,or the Chapon spinning- frame may be

used to Spin counts from 4’

s up to about 4’

s for coarse weftsi n GOP form .

System 4 .

— For the finer counts of cotton waste yarns Spun

up to possibly 12’

s or finer .

For many years there has been a certain amount of waste

s pinning conducted on the manifold coiler system as distinct from

the condenser systems . This manifold coiler system— often termed

the prepara t ion system— is a cross be tween the condenser system

of spinning and the ordinary system of cotton spinning in which

the cotton is passed through various machines contain ing draft

THE OPENING AND CLEANING OF COTTON WASTE . 93

rol lers . In the condenser system draft rollers are more usual lyOmitted from every machine . In the manifold coiler system

general ly two machines are used in which there are draft rol lers .

Start i ng with waste of fair qual ity,the amount of pre

l iminary t reatment before reaching the card will depend upon the

part icular character Of the waste , and might,for example

,consist .

of the s ingle Crighton and the sing le scutcher . A moderate

amount of comber waste or even Of poor raw cotton might be in

troduced i nto the ordinary waste , admixtures depending upon the

specia l markets and uses found for the spun yarn,breaker card

and D erby doubler , as before described .

Compared with the condenser system of waste spinning the

l eading differences begin with the delivery of the cotton wastefrom the finisher cardin g engine .

Instead of us ing the condenser the web of co tton was te isdivided into four or six portions in its width by thin polished steel

blades— or other means— placed between the cyl inder and doffer .

E ach sl iver may equa l about hank in counts , a l i ttle more or

less as requ ired . These arranged al ong the front of the card re

semble those at the del ivery Of a drawing- frame and may be

operated on the draw - frame principle . Often the cans are a l it tl e

smal l er than the orthodox 9 in . diameter by 36 i n . l ength so

common to cotton spinning .

The draw - frame may be omitted and the sl iver cans from the

breaker card taken directly to the slubber,the rovings being

drafted into counts suitable for the fina l spinning process,say

any counts from about 1g up to Qi or so,six cans at the card

suit ing the production of the finer counts rather better than the

quadruple system Of cans .

Bobbins are made at the s lubber as large as the mule creel

wil l conveniently take— say about 9 i n . l i ft by about in

diameter .

I t is necessary for the dra ft rollers at this slubber to be of

comparat ively smal l diameter on account of the short fibres under

treatment , so that front and back bottom rollers may be each 1 in ,

diameter and middle rol lers g in . diameter .

In the prepara t ion sys tem or manifold system Of cotton wasteSpinning the Slubbi ng bobbins may be taken directly from the

del ivery of the s lubber to the cree l of the waste - Spinning mu le .

Here , aga in , we have radical d ifferences from the condenser

9 4 COTTON WASTE .

system,S ince this mule may conta in three lines of drawing rol lers

Of smal l diameter which draft out the cotton into comparat ively

fine counts of yarn . Such yarn differs considerably from the

condenser yarn and each must find its own parti cular market .

The yarn spun on the condenser system for the same counts wil l

be of ful ler appearance,more ha iry and woolly

,and will give a

fuller feel and appearance to goods i t is woven i nto,but wil l

probably not be as strong as that spun on the preparationsystem .

In place of the mule for this class of work, a r ing Spinning

frame with smal l diameters Of rol lers may be used , and i n order

to give gentle drafting action such frames have been tried with

four or five pa i rs of rollers .

In the condenser mule the draft is usual ly all put in by the

carriage,but i n the mule on the preparat ion or coiler system the

draft is more in the rollers and there need not be the same variat ion in Spindle speed .

System 5 .

— The systems previously given dea l with the treat

ment Of cotton waste when it is i ntended to be made into yarn,

and expla in the treatment for hard , clean waste , soft , dirty waste ,and soft

,clean waste .

A good deal Of cotton waste,however

,is never made into yarn

at all, but Simply receives prel iminary treatment , somewhat after

the manner of the other waste , and is then uti l i zed for such purposes as cotton wadding

,packing for delicate art icles such as

j ewellery,for surgical purposes

,for the stuffing of bed - t icks and

many s imilar purposes . Take the treatment for cotton wadding

which is the principa l example of the use of cotton waste not

Spun into yarn .

Wadding is Often made from any such waste as broken-up cop

bottoms,sweepings

,card strippings and clearer waste .

The hard waste might be first treated in a Spiked cylinder

machine and the soft waste in a Wil low or Crighton , i n any case

the scutcher would finally make a lap for the card .

Cards for wadding are bui l t upon the roller and clearer

principle, and a good many roller and clearer cards have been

bought from ordinary cotton - spinning mil ls and a l tered to suit

was te carding.

I f laps are fed to the card the feed lattice may be extended

to take two laps , one behind the other . Sometimes the cotton is

96 COTTON WASTE .

In Spite of the very rapid consumption of a mixing Of cotton

waste it is better to have mixings that wil l last as long as can be

made convenient in order to maintai n uniformity , and a fortnightis by no means too long a period .

Good cop bottoms mixed with a smal ler proportion of weavers’

or winders’ waste and possibly an amount of comber waste may

Spin 6’

s to 9’

s,and an i ncrease i n the proportion of comber waste

will extend to higher counts, the finest counts of all taking nearly

all comber waste .

The fact that a breaker card is more often supplied with two

laps feeding together,l ends i tse lf natural ly to us ing one lap of

different qual i ty from the other .

Mixing of 8000 lb. of Cotton Waste to Sp in Counts about6

s o7f7

s.

Str ips from card flats

Str ips from cylinder and doffer

Good dropping s from beneath taker - in

Fly of moderate qual i tyD irty fly

Waste from draw- frames

Totol 8000 lb .

This mixing is Simply given as being representative of the

kind of procedure frequently adopted in condenser spinning from

soft waste .

Soap ing Apparatus.

Similar counts might be Spun from cop- bottom and other

hard waste , but the mixing might have some other stuff put into

it to sol idify it and give it, SO to Speak,a l ittle backbone .

Owing to the use Of the soaping apparatus a mixing chiefly

composed of broken - up hard waste may need to stand about twoful l days or forty- eight hours before using , to al low the soap spray

to dry i n . This soaping of the very fluffy hard waste stops i t fromflying about too much .

The soaping apparatus may consist of a smal l tank supplied

with a mixture Of boi led soft soap and water . A slowly revolvingdrum is more or less immersed in the soapy water and over the

THE OPENING AND CLEANING OF COTTON WASTE 97

top Of the drum a quickly revolving brush is always Operating

SO as to distribute a fine spray of the mixture upon the opened

waste as it is leavi ng the cop-bottom machi ne .

Messrs . Tatham of Rochdal e give the fol lowing summary of

three typical arrangements for cotton waste“ Cotton waste suitable for making into yarn is divided into

two classes,one known as

‘hard ’

and the other as‘soft ’

. The

former includes cop -bottoms,ring- frame , reel_ers , and waste Of a

thready nature ; the latter includes scutcher droppings,card

fly,cyl inder and flat strips

,clearer laps

,sweepings

,comber

waste,etc .

“ In treati ng cotton waste to the best advantage it is essentia l

to separate the better from the lower qual i t ies,us ing the ‘hard

and comber waste for the fine counts and the other kinds O f‘soft waste and sweeping for the lower counts .

It wil l be as wel l to expla i n that one of two systems

of machinery is general ly adopted,either the ‘condenser

,

which is a modificat ion of the wool len system, or the

‘coi ler ’ or ‘preparat ion,

’ which is somewhat l ike the cotton

system . The system adopted gives a dist inct character to the

yarn .

“ The ‘condenser ’

sys tem is found to give best resul ts where

a full,level

,and soft spun yarn is required ; i t is generally used

as weft and is woven into sheetings,flannelettes

, qui l ts , bed

covers,cotton blankets

,Sponge cloths

,etc . It has the advantage

that both ‘hard ’

and ‘Soft

waste can be Spun on this system,

either separately or mixed together .

The ‘coiler ’

or‘preparation

system is most suitable

where strength is Of most importance,and where counts above

10’

s are wanted,

‘hard’

waste,comber and ‘

soft’

waste,free

from shell and leaf, are best suited . It is used as a weft in

weaving into cloths to be printed or dyed,such as cretonnes

,

towels,etc it is also bundled into hanks and used by makers

of ropes and twines . The cost of production is less than on the‘condenser

system ,and the range of counts from the same

plant is greater than on the condenser ’

system .

In order to guide intending purchasers,we draw attention

below to three complete plants which have been found,from a

long experience,to give good resul ts

,and which are working i n

many of the mills i n this and other countries

98 COTTON WASTE .

NO. 1 Plant.

For Spinning counts say 5’

s to 10’

s from ‘hard ’

waste,ih

cluding cop-bottoms , etc . , or comber waste

,on the ‘condenser

system,to g ive a soft , ful l , and level yarn .

Opening and cleaning or willowing machine or preparing

machine when production is large .

Breaking-up machine with self -acting soaping machine .

(The above machines are wanted for hard waste only and not

for comber waste .)Single -beater lap - forming scutching machine wi th hopper

feeder .

Single -breaking carding engine .

D erby doubler .

Single -finishing carding engine with condenser .

Self-acting mule for condenser bobbins .

No. 2 Plant.

For Spinning counts say 3’

s to l6’

s from ‘hard ’ waste

including cop-bottoms

,etc .

,or comber waste , on the ‘coiler ’

or‘preparat ion

system,to give a strong yarn .

Opening and cleaning or willowing machine or preparing

machine for large production .

“ Breaking-up machine with self-acting soaping machine .

(The above three machines are required only for hard waste

and not for comber waste .)“ Single -beater lap - forming scutching machine with hopper

feeder .

Single -breaking carding engines .

D erby doubler .

Single -finishing carding engine with quadruple coil ing and

.can motion .

Slubbing frame .

Sel f -acting mule for slubbing bobbins or ring frame .

No. 3 Plant.

For Spinning counts say 1’

s to 5’

s from soft ’ waste,i nclud

ing scutcher droppings , card fly,cyl inder and flat strips

,clearer

laps,sweepings , etc .

,on the ‘ condenser

system,to give a level

and full yarn .

100 COTTON WASTE .

cotton waste will bleach and dye well,even i f these operations are

l eft unti l the yarn is final ly spun and twisted,s i nce the twist is

almost invariably kept down to a low amount,the thickness of the

yarn providing suffi cient strength for requi rements with only a

smal l proportion of twist .

In regard to the different types of machinery used in the

earl ier treatment Of cotton waste it is important to remember tha t

in making any i nquiries from machine makers as regards new

machines for cotton waste , i t is very necessary that ful l particularsShould be suppl ied by the inquirer . E special ly Should samples

of materials to be treated be sent a long with the inquiries,wit h

ful l details as to the quantity Of each kind or qual ity which would

be used in making a mixing . A statement Should also be made

as to the range of counts expected to be Spun,stating highest and

lowest counts .

Productions .

Not long ago the writer heard a well -known mill manager

in charge of one of the largest cotton mil ls i n E ng land us ing

E gyptian cotton— express astonishment at hearing a friend in

the waste trade grumbling because his mules had only done 3%lb . of yarn per Spindle during the current week . In this con

nexion it may be as well to state that 6 lb . or 7 lb . per spindle isquite feasible when Spinning 3

s to 4’

s counts upon a good waste

mule,and running a good ful l week . About two pa i rs of such

cotton -waste mul es will turn out as much weight of yarn in one

week as a mill Of or more spindles Spinning from 8o’

s to

100’

s counts of yarn from E gyptian cotton .

An eminent firm Of cotton -waste machinery makers iquote 22 lb .

per Spindle per week for counts 1541’

s,a l lowing Sixty hours per week

,

and us ing a conti nuous spinning machine which only inserts a

very smal l amount of twist per inch . If we were to assume1000 of such spindles to produce 20 lb . each ,

this would give aweekly production of 1000 x 20 lb . If we compare

this with a mule spinning from 80’

s to 100’

s , and assume the same

to be producing lb . of yarn per spindle per week,we Should

require a mill of x 4 spindles to give off the

same weight of yarn per week .

Coming now to the earl ier machines,we do not find any such

extreme variat ions in product ion . I t is a matter of fact that an

THE OPENING AND CLEANING OF COTTON WASTE . 101

Opener or scutcher Operating upon cotton waste may be taken as

only giving about the same productions as would be g iven intreating raw cotton . As a matter of fact there are some kinds Of

waste which require more initial treatment than raw cotton,and

productions are actually less . An eminent firm quotes the following product ions : COp -bottom breaking-up machine once throughonly may be taken at 80 lb . per hour . Improved sel f- acting

wil low , lb . per week . Crighton Opener,with lattice feeder

,

but not making a lap ,lb . per week . Improved scutcher

to make laps 49 i n . wide,

lb . per week . Derby doubler,

6000 lb . per week . E ach set of carding engines anything from30 lb . per hour for about 1

s to 2’

s down to 11 lb . per hour forabout 10

s counts .

The It lou'

.

One of the best -known machines i n connexion with the initialtreatment Of cotton waste is the “ willow

,but i n cons idering the

special vogue of this machine we are at once confronted with thetruth previously stated in the present art icle

,that blow- room

machinery must be adapted to the special class of waste to betreated . For example

,the wil low is by no means the best

machine for the treatment of cop-bottoms ,

and i t is not neces

s ary for treat ing clean soft waste . It is,however

,of great service

in cleaning dirty soft waste, such as scutcher droppings , the

d irt iest fly, and sweepings . Many of our readers will rememberthat the Oldham willow formerly had a cons iderable use in regardto the prel iminary Opening of Indian and American cotton

,being

extens ively used for a great many years i n the Oldham district .In this part icular connexion

,however

,i t has practical ly become

obsolete , or it has become altered and improved a lmost entirely

out of recognition . The nearest approach to it that we have in

the modern treatment of ordinary raw cotton is to be found inthe “ Buckley Opener

,either as made by the original people ,

Taylor , Lang and CO .

,of Stalybridge

, or as now also made byc erta in other machine makers . In the Oldham willow the beateror ma i n cylinder util ized an upstroke

,and the strong top cover

was fitted with spikes or ribs,which helped to loosen the masses

o f cotton ; i t is wel l known that these are distinct ive features of

the “ Buckley opener,but in other respects the di fferences are

g reat .

102 COTTON WASTE .

It w i ll perhaps be best to g ive a brief description of the

Oldham willow as used for ordinary cotton opening thirty to

forty years ago. It consisted of a central cyl inder,possibly 40 in .

wide by 40 i n . diameter,mounted on the ma in pulley shaft

,and

receiving motion directly from the l ine or counter- shaft . Ex

tending across the periphery of this cyl inder were several rows

of strong,blunt spikes or teeth

,and s imilar teeth or spikes were

cast i n the strong top cover . The lower portion of the cyl inder

was encased with a suitable grid , which was constructed to per

mit the escape of dirt,seeds , l eaf, and s talk

,or other Obj ectionable

materia l,while only permitt ing the escape of a smal l proport ion Of

good fibre . The grid was constructed in two parts,the front part

being hinged l ike a door and balanced by weighted cords or

straps to permit ready Opening and shutting . An exhaust fan

was fitted to the machine to carry away the fine dust . The

Operation with hand - fed willows was somewhat as follows : The

hinged grid was lowered,a sufficient quantity of cotton placed

inside the beater chamber and upon the grid,and the grid was

then closed again . The shutting of the hinged front grid brought

the cotton within the range of action of the spikes of the beater,

and these Spikes dashed the cotton against the spiked and ribbed

top cover,loosening the matted fibres , and l iberating a good pro

portion Of sand,dust and undesirable matter

,which fel l or was

driven through the g rating for the most part . Each portion of

cotton was al lowed to rema in under this action for a Short spaceof t ime—~ only a few seconds— and then the grid lowered

,the

Opened mass Of cotton released , and a fresh portion presented tothe action of the cylinder . This was the Simplest form of willow

,

and a great many years ago improved willows came out , in which

the intermittent feed and del ivery of cotton were controlled automatically. When it was improved upon

, so as to become a

cotton opener proper,the feed and delivery of cotton became con

tinuous .

As previously s tated,the Oldham willow for Opening ordinary

raw cotton was equipped with automatic feeding and del ivery of

the cotton,prior to its relegation to the ranks Of Obsolete machines

for raw cotton . We may here point out that the roller and clearer

carding eng ine , which has almost become obsolete for ordinary

cotton carding,is yet almost the only machine used for carding

cotton waste . We have an absolute paral lel i n the case of the

104 COTTON WASTE .

l ike 3 the driving pulleys on cyl inder equal l ing 12 in .

diameter by 4 in . by 4 i n . wide for fast and loose pulleys re

spectively. NO part icular advance i n construction wil l be noticed

i n connexion w i th the central cyl inder,Sp iked top cover and up

s troke of beater , but there are some special features i n regard to

the apparatus for automatica l ly feeding and del ivering the cotton .

In the case of Messrs . Plat t Bros .

’ machine,it is equipped

with a feed and del ivery regulator,which dist inctly tends to in

crease productions while reta ining the intermittent feed and

del ivery,which latter permits a su fficiently prolonged Operation

of the cyli nder teeth upon the cotton waste,a prolonged treat

ment not obtainable by any cont inuous feed and delivery,however

Slow . This willow is also fitted with an automati c arrangement

for varying the t ime that may be deemed requisite to permit the

different classes of cotton waste to remain under treatment by the

main cyl inder in order to obtai n the required degree Of cleanli

ness . It wil l be well understood that far more extreme variat ions

i n degree of cleanliness will be found in soft cotton waste than

would ever be l ikely to occur in the case Of any growth of

absolutely raw cotton . The feed and delivery lattices travel at

one uniform Speed,and i t must be understood that a modern wil

low for the treatment of cotton waste practical ly consists of the ma in

cyl i nder,the requisite top covers and under - grips

,a feed - lattice

and a del ivery lattice,and the requisite belts , wheels , pulleys , and

l evers for Operating these parts . The feeding and discharg ing Of

the cotton occupy the same regulated and fixed time under all

conditions i n working while the intermittent motion applied to

the rollers can be instantly adjusted,and thus allow the cotton

waste to rema i n under treatment by the cyl inder for such a time

as may be deemed necessary . This willow is usual ly made withfan for down -draft

,j ust as in the case of Openers

'

and scutchersfor the treatment Of ordinary raw cotton

,but the willow can be

arranged to work with an up- draft for the fan i f required .

Another Make of I'Villou

A special feature of Messrs . Asa Lees and CO .

S sel f-actingwaste cleaner or willow cons ists i n the lattice feed . The wasteis placed upon an endless cloth belt

,the full width of the

machine , and this cloth belt travels slowly along,

and de

posi ts the waste into the feeding box . At required intervals,as

THE OPENING AND CLEANING OF COTTON WASTE . 105

regulated by the rack motion ,the feeding box delivers the cotton

waste i nto the cyl inder chamber for the required Opening and

c leaning treatment . The duration Of the intervals of feeding the

c otton into the machine can be readi ly altered according to thec lass of waste under treatment

,so that more or less Opening and

c leaning can be given as required . This part icular arrangement

ensures that the materia l shal l be given to the cylinder over the

whole width of the latter,and i n this way the work and stra i n

imposed upon the g rids is more or less equalized . In some cases

i t has been found that undue pressure has been put on the centre,due to more of the feed of cotton to the cyl inder taking place atthis position . The patent movable rol ler narrows the space

between the cyl inder and the face of the rol ler when the machine

is del ivering ,and widens it when the machine is cleaning . Wi th

the ordinary rol ler there is always 3 i n . Space,but the patent

movable roller varies this from 15 in . down to i in . The rack

motion also is capable Of very fine adjustment . I f requi red,and

special ly ordered,this firm also supply a patent dirt remover,

which moves the dirt,by means Of a wrought - i ron scroll

,to the

outside of the machine,where i t falls i nto a cast - iron box . Over

this box is a revolving elevator,to which buckets are attached

,

and as the buckets pass round they take the dirt up and del iver

i t to the back of the machine into a bag or box . With this

a rrangement the machine is clear from dir t underneath ,and no

c leaning out‘

by hand is required . There is also no accumulat ion

of dirt to become mixed up with the cleaned cotton waste . As

a general rule this machine is bu i lt for r ight - hand driving and

with right -hand del ivery . The rack motion and elevator are on

the l eft hand , and the fan is usually arranged for a down -draft .

General Appearance of Willou'

.

Speaking generally about the Oldham willow principle of

c l eaning cotton waste,the machine at a glance appears to be all

cylinder box,with a lattice to feed the waste , and another to

del iver the same ; the speed of fan may keep much the same as

used for an ordinary cotton Opener,say 1300 or 1400 revolu

t ions per minute . In watching the machine work it is noted that

poss ibly about 12 i n . or 14 i n . of the cotton waste from the feed

lattice is presented to the cyl inder . Then the feed is arrested

while this portion of cotton is treated . Then the del ivery door

106 COTTON WASTE .

Opens to permit exit of the cleaned cotton from cylinder chamber,

and almost at the same moment a further length Of dirty wasteis fed to the cyl inder . The Opening and shutting of. the deliveiydoor may be marked with a certai n amount of noise indicative of

event .

FIG . 12.—W i l low, without Lattice Feed .

The willow ,as made by Messrs . Tatham Of Rochda le

,

shown in figs . 12,13 and 14 . This machine (56 in .

wide on

cylinder) , by loosening ‘ the COp-bottoms

,Shaking out the dust

and taking out any foreign substance which may be . in the

waste , prepares same for the breaking-up machine,and is advised

108 COTTON WASTE .

short in terval the grid is Opened and the waste is ready to be

taken out.

Production — About lb . per week of fifty- six hours .

Dimensions,Weights, Speeds , etc .

Space Occupied . Driving Pul leys.

Length . Height. Width. Diam. Width.

Speed When Packed .

permm.

6 ft. 7 ft . 6 ft. 14 in . 4 in. 320 about 34 166 cub . ft .

6 in . 6 in . 6 in . revs . 2 I .H.P. cwts .

The Willou‘ing Machine with Patent La ttice

Feeder. (Fig .

(56 i n . wide on cyl inder . )

For Opening and cleaning various kinds Of soft cotton waste,

including scutcher droppings,card fly

,strips

,etc .

SpeCification.

—Patent latti ce feeder,dust grids

,fan for down

draft,patent movable roller

,overhead del ivery creeper

,patent

rack motion .

Special Fea tures— Patent lattice feeder ensures the waste

being fed the full width Of cyl inder,thus equal i z ing the strain

put on the grids .

Patent rack motion enables the attendant to regulate the

l ength of time the waste is Operated upon by the machine .

Extras— Patent dirt remover . By means of a wrought

i ron scrol l revolving under the machine the dirt is removed

i nto a cast - i ron receptacle outs ide the machine . Over this is

an elevator having an endless chain Of buckets which li fts the

dirt,carries same to the back of the machine

,and deposi ts i t

i nto a box or bag ,preventing an accumulation of dirt under the

machine .

Production—About 9000 lb . per week of fifty- six hours

,varying

a ccording to the class of waste to be cleaned .

Note— Whilst working ,see that the proj ection on taking- in

wheel comes one or two inches past the stop . After the wheel has

g one out of gear the proj ection must fa l l against the stop .

THE OPENING AND CLEANING OF COTTON WASTE . 109

D imensions,lVeights ,

'

Speeds, etc. (Fig .

ApproximateWeights andSpace Occupied . Driving Pul leys~ Outside Measurement

Length. Height. Width. Diam. Gross . Net. When Packed .

10 ft. 7 ft. 7 ft. 14 in . 350. about 56 47 280 cub . ft.

6 in . 6 in. 3 I.H.P. cwts. cwts.

FIG . 14 .—W i l low, with Lattice Feed .

The Preparing Machine for Hard Waste. (Fig .

(40 in . or 48 in . wide . )

The waste is passed through this machine preparatory to

being treated by the breaking-up machine .

The effect is to loosen or comb same so as to be more readily “

broken up and at the same time take out any foreign substance

which may be in the waste . This machine may be preferable to

110 COTTON WASTE .

the opening and cleaning or wil lowing machine where a large

production is requi red . The machine is s trongly designed and

Simple in construction . It cons ists of hand feeder with hardwood

lattice . One pa ir feed rollers covered with toothed disks . Iron

cylinder covered with hard -wood lags fitted with strong steel

teeth . Iron doffer covered with metal plates fitted with hardened

and tempered steel teeth . Two iron calender rollers . Chai n to

drive the feeder . Strap -moving apparatus . Starting and stopping

mot ion for doffer and feeder . Iron cover over cylinder and iron

c asing underneath fitted with door .

FIG . 15 .— Preparing Machine for Hard Waste.

Illustra tion— This Shows at the del ivery end a lap- forming

apparatus which is not required for the purpose above described .

Instead,the waste

,after being stripped from the doffer by the

cal ender rol lers ,fal ls on to the floor and is then ready to be taken

to the breaking-up machines .

Production — The approximate production per week of 56

hours for a machine 40 in . wide is lb .,and for a machine

48 in . wide lb . This machine is made‘

by Messrs .

Tatham .

Breaking-up Machine. (See Fig .

This machine is used for Opening into fibre cop- bottoms ,

reelers or other kinds of hard waste,and is constructed with

various numbers of cyl inders from one to eight , to su i t the quantity

and class of waste to be deal t with and floor Space avai lable .

Specifica tion. Machine with patent welded wrought- iron

cyl i nders,21-1 in . wide over all

,mounted with hard wood lags

112 COTTON WASTE .

Lap- forming machines attached to the del ivery end of one ,

two,or three cyl inder machines are frequently supplied to make

laps , five of which can then be placed on to the feeding lattice ofthe succeeding breaking-up machine . This is a good system to

adopt where length of room is l imited .

Fan with cast—i ron dust pipe for down -draft behind each

cyl inder,and with del ivery lattice apparatus , for Opening very

dirty or dyed cotton waste .

Belt - shifting apparatus with loose driving pul l ey .

Wheel guards to the large wheels on feed rollers and to the

wheels on deliverv cage .

Lag covering for the cyl inders can be suppl ied fitted with

FIG . 16 .

— Cop-bottom Machine.

flat and headed steel teeth or round polished needle -pointed stee l

teeth .

Production — VVhere a quantity of 5000 lb . and upwards of

thread waste , say up to 40’

s counts , is to be treated per week of

fifty- Six hours , i t is advisable to have the machine of Six cyl inders ,

and one passage of the waste through the machine is general ly

sufficient . The production averages from 5000 to 6000 lb . per

week of fifty-six hours . If machines of less number of cyl inders

are instal led the production wil l be correspondingly less .

D riving Pulleys— D riving pulleys 12 i n . diameter by 6 in .

wide for one cyl inder , or 12 in . diameter by 8 in . wide when one

belt is made to drive two cylinders ; i n this case the second is

driven by a side rope from belt-driven cyl inder . I t is not advised

to have fast and loose pulleys on cylinder shaft .

Speed of driving pulleys , 800 revolutions per minute .

Power required— About five indicated horse per cylinder .

THE OPENING AND CLEANING OF COTTON WASTE . 118

Floor Space Occup ied, Approxima te Weights and Measurements are

as follows

Machines w ith Fans , Dust Pipes, andMachines without Fans. Delivery Apparatus.

Outside OutsideCylindei 8“ Cubic Extreme Cubic Extreme

Measure MeasureGross . Net .

ment Gross. Net.ment

h h

P

av

clfd’

d.

Length Width Pv

eieifél

d.

Length . W idth.

t s. t s . Cub. Ft. Ft . In. Ft. In. t s. t s . Cub . Ft. Ft . In. Ft. In.

1 cylinder 29 23 230 9 3

2 56 45 410 15 10

3 82 67 610 22 5

4 110 90 810‘

29 0

5 138 112 1010 35 7

6 2

7 9

8 4

41 34 297 13 3

73 60 510 19 10

105 86 720 26

137 112 930 33

169 138 1140 39

201 164 1350 46

233 190 1560 52

265 216 1770 59

164 133 1210 42

191 155 1410 48

220 177 1610 55 p

mmmp

p

wm

wwwwwwww

FP

QO

NJ

Q

O

CJ!

mmp

p

wwh

p

wwwwo

wwo

A soaping machine weighs 43 cwts. gross , 22 cwts. net. Outside cubi c measurement

,when packed , 39 ft. 10 ih . , and adds 3 ft. 8 in . to the breaking-up machine.

A lap- form ing machine weighs 25 cwts . gross , 21 cwts. net . Outside cubic measurement , when packed , 54 ft. , and adds 3 ft. 10 in . to the breaking -up machine.

Pickering Machine of One Cylinder (See Fig .

Soft waste , i ncluding card fly,strips

,scutcher droppings,

sweepings , stocking laps , etc .,after being made into a mixing are

combed out . Better mixed and prepared for the scutcher,one

passage through this machine is general ly suflicient.

Specifica tion — Patent welded wrought - iron cylinder mounted

with hardwood lags fitted with hand - forged steel teeth . Steel

cyl inder shaft with hardened necks . Lattice feeding creeper.

Feeder Special ly adapted for soft waste . Reversing motion to

the feed rollers and lattice creeper . Cage and cage gearing .

Guards to Side and cross-shaft wheels . Improved self- oilingcyl inder pedestals .

The makers advise two cylinders where there is a good proportion of threads in the waste .

Sp ecial Fea tures— The patent welded wrought - iron cyl inder

is made with the shell,arms and bosses

,all of wrought - i ron and

welded . It is the only cyli nder made with the shell in a cont inu

COTTON WASTE .

ous sheet welded together , and is the strongest,easiest to turn

,

and safest and best for quick Speeds and high production .

The self- oil ing cylinder pedestals are of an improved type and

are fitted with best brass steps . The collars of the cyl inder Shaft

run inside the pedestals and proj ect into the Oil reservoir at thebottom . The oil

,after lubricating the shaft

,runs back into the

reservoir , thus preventing waste .

E xtras.— Self -acting soaping machine for adding to the

broken -up waste a mixture of soap and water as i t leaves the

last or finishing cyl inder . To card and Spin successful ly , theaddit ion of soap and water in correct proportions is essential .

FIG . 17.—P i ckering Machine of One Cyl inder.

Fan with cast - iron dust pipe for down -draft behind each

cyl inder and with del ivery lattice apparatus for opening very dirty

or dyed cotton -waste .

Belt- shifting apparatus with loose driving pul ley .

Wheel guards to large wheels on feed rollers and on cage .

Illustra tion — The wheel guards over the large wheels on

feed rollers and over wheels on deliveiy cage are only suppl ied if

special ly ordered .

Production — The waste is passed once through the machine,

and the production of a Single machine in . wide on cylinder

is about 6000 lb . per week of fifty- six hours

,the production of

the wider machines being in proportion .

Driving Pulleys— 12 i n . by 6 i n . for one cylinder , or 12 in .

116 COTTON WASTE .

damage the fibre much,or at any rate to but a sl ight extent

,the

ma in Obj ects being to lose the dirt and to thoroughly Open out

the fibrous materia l . COp- bottoms and hard cotton waste

,

general ly speaking,are very clean

,and need little attention in the

way of los ing dirt , but require the maximum amount Of treatmentfor Opening and re-fibring . A description of these cyl inders as

made by Messrs . Hetherington wil l convey the best idea of the

special features des ired in this type of machine .

“ The cylin

ders are of wrought - iron,combining strength with lightness .

They are turned all over the surface,and covered with beech

lags,conta i ning in the aggregate to teeth . These

may be either black hand - forged cast- steel teeth,polished round

s teel teeth,or Hardings

’ patent flat pins . The cylinder shafts

are of steel,and revolve in automatical ly self - lubr icating pedestals ,

fitted with gun-meta l steps

,the cages are of cross -woven wire ,

j ointed without solder,therefore not affected by heat

,and with

i ron bound on the edges . The feed roll ers are provided with a

revers ing motion,so that i n case an accident should occur , or be

apprehended,they can be instantly reversed

,preventing the entry

of additional material,and arresting the further passage of that

already in the machine ; and a motion is provided for stoppingall the parts other than the cyl inders .

Weighting of Feed Rollers .

A Special detai l of some importance in connexion with the

foregoing machine cons ists i n the method of weighting the feed

rollers . The method in use for many years past on waste Openers

and on ordinary cotton Openers and scutchers also,has been to

apply the weight to the ends of the rollers outs ide the framing .

In the above case the weighting is appl ied to the feed rol lers in

side the framing,and this brings the pressure as near as possible

to the point where the rol lers bite the cotton waste . This feature

is of importance,i nasmuch as i t tends to prevent “ plucking of

the cotton through the rollers,an evil which has often been a

serious defect on Openers,scutchers

,and cards , either in ordinary

cotton treatment,or in the treatment of cotton waste . In this

connexion makers and users of the machines have to choose

between the lesser of two or three evils . Sufficient rigidity of the

rollers to prevent plucking could be obta i ned by making the

rollers of larger diameter,but i n the case of the actua l striking

THE OPENING AND CLEANING OF COTTON WASTE . 117

point of last roller,large diameters place the sett ings too wide

apart . Yet again,narrow machines will give shorter rol lers , which

are more rigid than the longer ones , but the narrow machines are

of l imited production . Long,thin

,feed rollers are in a sense

necessary,and yet they frequently give or permit plucking of the

cotton, and hence the probable value of bringing the weights

inside the frame ends . We are of Opinion that this is a sound

principle,and worthy of extended adoption4 either in openers ,

scutchers,or cards

,or i n ordinary cotton treatment as well as

with cotton waste .

Prepara tion System.

The preparat ion system being a kind of cross between ordinary

cotton Spinning and condenser Spinning,lends i tself natural ly to

making a harder’

twisted yarn,spun either on a mule with draft

rol lers or else on a ring- frame,the yarn being more suitable for

warps than for weft . The ring- frame is not much used in the

spinning of cotton waste yarns .

The Willow.

The distinctive features of the Wi l low are : (1) the use of a

l imited number of strong,blunt

,nearly round teeth or spikes , 3 in .

to 4 in . l ong and from g i n . to 1 i n . or SO diameter at the top ;

(2) continued treatment by the beater before del ivery,the feed

and delivery being intermittent for the purpose,whereas i n other

opening machines the feed,the treatment

,and the del ivery are

c ontinuous .

Cop-bottom Machine.

By contrast, the treatment of the cotton in the picking or

c op-bottom machine is by a very large number of very fine teeth

infinitely more searching among the fibrous material . By a

c lutch and bevel arrangement attached to the feeding end of the

machine,the latter may be stopped or reversed as required .

Each steel tooth or Spike about 4 in . long and —3 i n . diameter .

Blow-room Fires .

I t is of even more importance to isolate the room whereinthe opening is done in cotton -waste mills than in the case ofo rdinary cotton spinning

,and numberless fires have occurred

118 COTTON WASTE .

through hard substances getting to some of the beaters or cylin

ders and striking fire,many fires also occurring through friction ,

or through waste lapping round the feed - rol lers . I t is inadvis

able to have the mixings of cotton waste s tored in the room wherethe picking and Opening are done . Hand fire extinguishers Of

the kind that start off when turned upside down should be ready

for fires at the start . Water buckets and hose pipes should be

always handy in the breaking-up room,which should be as

fire-proof as convenient and have provision for the water drain

ing away readily after a fire .

Heavy Driving .

The Six or eight cyl inder cop-bottom or hard-waste breaking

machi nes especially are very heavy to drive,and other Ini tial

machines are by no means light,SO that the Opening room should

be as near the driving power as may be convenient .Running each cylinder at possibly 800 revolut ions per minute ,

a machine of the largest character,i.e. eight cylinders, may require

as much as 38 I .H.P. The practice of having on ly a fast pulley

on such a machine and having to stop the driving engine in order

to stop the breaker,is not to be commended

,and i t is better to

use fast and loose pulleys as on an ordinary Opener or scutcher .

One method of distributing the driving in the case of a Six or

eight cyl inder machine is to drive down by a wide belt to each

a lternate cyl inder and to drive each interven ing cylinder from a

belt - driven one by means of an endless band .

Between the fluted feed rollers and each cylinder there is

Often placed a steel ful l -width plate,somewhat after the style of

the mote -knife on a carding eng ine .

The material be ing driven on to the edge of this cutt ing plate

is more or‘

less broken or cut up ,the shape

,angle and sharpness

of the blade being subject to some amount of variation . The

cotton should be kept i n good condit ion and well set to prevent

hard,thready waste ends . In some cases the cylinders are re

versed after severa l weeks’ runn ing .

The Soaper. (See Figs . 18 and

As stated,a soaping arrangement is often attached to the

del ivery end of a cop -bottom or hard -waste breaking machine .

The Object of the soaper is to constantly Spray a mixture of soap

120 COTTON WASTE .

Such is the fluffy,l ight character of the cotton waste as

leaves a six- cyl inder cop -bottom breaker,that i t is often deemed

necessary to Spray it with soapy water as it leaves the machine

A soaping machine is applied when ordered,and is attached to

the del ivery end of the breaking-up machine . The soapy water

tends not only to make the waste st i ck better together,but also

s l ightly adds to the weight . The soaping arrangement stops the

waste from flying about,but the waste should afterwards stand

for a day and a night before using at the next machine,to permit

a reasonable amount of re-drying . The'

soaping apparatus is not

indispensable to one of these hard -waste breakers,but is Often

useful,and must be ordered and pa id for as an extra . In fig . 18

A is the tank of Soap -water,B the soap-roller

,C the spray-brush ,

D the del ivery latt i ce .

Fig . 19 shows a Pickering machine with a soaper attached .

Single Cylinder, Three Cylinders, and Sir Cylinders .

These beech lag and Spiked cyl inders are used in a hor izontal

direction,usual ly have a down- stroke

,and may have any speed

up to from 750 to 850 revolut ions per m inute . As stated,i t is

possible to make machines with only one cyl inder , with as many

as eight cyl inders, or with any number between these extremes

of one and eight . In a single cyl inder machine the hard waste to

be opened is placed upon a feed lat tice i n the usual way,and then

passes between three fluted rol lers to the cylinder . It is not

essentia l that a fan be used in this one- cyl i nder machine , as the

air current created by the quick revolution of the cyl inder wil l be

found sufficient to‘carry the cotton to the wi re cage from whence

the cotton is del ivered behind the machine . A one- cyl inder

machine might occupy a floor space of 12 ft . 24 ins . by 6 ft .

D r iving pulleys 12 in . by 6 i n . wide . Speed of cyl inder about

800 revolutions per minute . There might be used a strap driving

counter - shaft from mai n Shaft 54 in . width,the length depending

upon local circumstances . A strap 5 i n . Wide might be used todrive the cylinder from the counter- shaft

,the high speed of 800

revolut ion s per minute making it advisable to use a counter - shaft .

To drive cross - shaft from cyl inder use a belt 8 ft . 10 in . length by2 in . wide . To drive the Slow motion Shaft from cross - Shaft use

a belt 11 ft . 6 i n . l ength by 14 i n . width . The brush of soaping

apparatus from the cyl inder may take a belt 10 ft . long by

THE OPENING AND CLEANING OF COTTON WASTE . 121

122 COTTON WASTE .

14 i n . wide . The rope for driving the roller of soaping apparatusfrom del ivery cage may be 3 ft . 8 i n . long

by g in . diameter . According to the num

ber of cyl i nders employed in a machinethereywould be certain of above belts dupl i

cated.

Six- Cylinder Machine. (See Fig .

There are several important benefits re

sulting from us ing one machine with six

cyl inders rather than passing the same

waste through a machine with one to three

cyl inders two or more times . If the waste

concern is of any si ze,so as to provide

sufficient and ful l work for the six - cylinder

machine,the latter is to be strongly re

commended,and especial ly if the hard

waste is fine or very hard twisted ,a

machine of even eight cyl inders is often

deemed advisable . It has been found that

by using single - cylinder machines,and

passing the same waste six times through ,

about 600 lb . of waste per full working daycould be treated ; but by us ing . a six

cylinder machine,1200 lb . per day may

be opened and cleaned sufficiently . One

man can readily attend altogether to the

six - cyl inder machine,and i n this way a

distinct saving in cost Of labour is ob

tained. Any of these machines can be

made to work,either with or without fans ,

al though the use of fans will help to carry

away the dust if the cotton waste is very

dirty . Cop-bottom waste,however , is usu

al ly quite clean ,unless i t has been thrown

amongst the sweepings . In a six- cyl inder

machine,the material

,after leaving the

first cyl inder,passes over the wire cages

to a pai r of heavy rollers , where it is com

pressed and then conducted ,automatical ly ,

to the feed rollers of the second cyl inder

124 COTTON WASTE

lines as for an ordinary cotton scutcher. I t is best to have the

pedal l evers pivoted on knife edges,as these give a very sensi t ive

action,and are probably less l iable to be adversely affected by the

dust and fly,which cannot be entirely prevented from getting to

these parts . It is probable also that the modern principle of dis

pensing with the bowl box of the piano motion wil l be found

particularly su itable for a cotton waste scutcher , Since the newerlever systems are far less l iable to be adversely affected with dust

and fly than any motion in which the bowl box and sl iding bowls

are retained . In some cases j ust one ordinary scutcher beater

only is used,and is built with two or three blades

,j ust according

to order ; in either case each blade is planed on both edges,so

that when one edge becomes worn the beater may be turned end

over end, SO ithat i t is reversed in its bearings , and unworn edges

are put into act ion . Natural ly the framing should be strong in

order to treat cotton waste without excessive breakage of parts ,and all gearing Should be well covered in . It is also good practice

to have the beater pedestals working in sel f-oi l ing bearings .

E xtra Beaters . (See Fig .

As previously stated , pract i ce varies greatly in regard to the

machines used for the blowi ng- room treatment of cotton waste ,a nd scutchers , for example , may be built with just one beater as

descri bed,or double scutchers may be used in which there are

two blade beaters , or even three if desired .

FIG . 21.— Scutcher for Cotton Waste.

Messrs . Platt,for example

,make a Special form of ascutcher

i n which there are two beaters placed together,but only one fan

a nd one pair of cages are used . In passing from the feed latt ice

THE OPENING AND CLEANING OF COTTON WASTE . 125

to the first beater or picker cyl inder the cotton waste is guided byrather large diameter fluted press rollers

,and held down to the

smal ler diameter feed roller . The waste passes between the feed

roller and the noses or short ends of pedal levers which form partof the piano feed regulator . As stated

,the first beater is more in

the nature of a spiked cylinder,and contains a large number of

closely set smal l steel Spikes,which

'

give a most thorough separat ion and opening out of the cotton waste

,somewhat after the style

of the wel l-known Kirchner or carding beater . It is fair to as

sume,indeed

,that the action of this picker beater more resembles

that of the li cker - in of a carding engine than that of a blade

beater . However,i n this case both kinds of treatment are oh

tained because the blade beater is right close up to the picker

beater , with no i ntervening feed rol lers,cages

,or other parts .

As a matter of fact,one single large curv‘ed tOp cover is made to

fit over the top of both beaters . There is a somewhat pecul iarshroud or casing to each blade beater to prevent the soft cotton

waste from stringing round and adhering to the blade,thus as

s isting the work of the stripping plate . It is perfectly obviousthat this double and var ied treatment wil l be very effective in

opening and cleaning soft dirty waste . Following the second or

blade beater there are the usua l two cages and fan,fol lowed again

by four cal enders and the other lap - forming parts . The drivingpulleys on the ends of Spiked cylinder and blade beater are re

commended at 12 in . diameter by 4 in . width, g iving a Speed of

1075 revolutions per minute . A scutcher of this type,with both

cyl inder and beater,may absorb about 5 I .H.P. when xworking

without hopper feeder .

To secure the best results,both in regard to cleaning

,Opening

,

and for making regular laps , it is best to apply a hOpper feeder tothis double beater scutcher

,although this takes up a l ittle more

space,and will absorb more in first cost . The hopper feeder has

wel l proved itself as a most efficient attachment to either Openeror scutcher which is fed with cotton in a loose state

,since it will

treat the desired weight of cotton or cotton waste most effectively

without injury to the fibre , and with a minimum amount of atten

tion . In the case under notice the pulleys to be placed on thestripping cyli nder of the hOpper feeder are fixed at 10 i n . diameterby 3 in . by 3 i n . wide , and the Speed about 300 revolutions perminute .

126 COTTON WASTE .

COp-bottom Breaking Machine.

For the early treatment of cop-bottoms or any hard waste , the

O ldham Wil low and other machines with ordinary beaters and

cylinders containing porcupine knives or full -width blades,do

not appear to give a sufficiently individual i zed treatment of the

fibres .

We may remind our readers that the term “ hard waste is

applied in a genera l way to all waste into which the fina l Spinning

twist has been introduced,and which

,therefore

,is of a much

closer and harder nature than any waste made at any of the

machines coming before the mule or ring frame . COp-bottoms

spinners’ hand waste

,reelers

waste,winders

’ waste,doublers

waste , thrums from Slashers,and weavers

waste,all come under

the general express ion of hard waste . Cop- bottom s form prob

ably by far the largest class of this kind of waste,and the first

hard waste breaking machines are Often termed cop-bottom

machines . Such machines will most effect ively break up into a

soft fleecy mass a lmost any kind of hard cotton waste,which

latter may afterwards be re- spun and manufactured into sheetings,

c heap towels,cotton blankets

,and flannelettes

,or be converted

into wadding , gun cotton ,etc .

There are various makers of these hard -waste breakers,and

s ince their in troduction various detai l ed improvements have been

discovered and applied by one machine -making firm or another .

The makers cla im that the materia ls used in the construc t ion of

the machines are of the best,and that care is taken to have every

p art well finished and well fitted . I t is claimed that such machines

a re also effective for cleaning opener and scutcher droppings,al

though we have descr ibed the Oldham willow as being an excel lent

machine for such waste . The use of these machines is not con

fined to the cotton -waste trade,but they may be also used for

treating wool len and worsted waste,flax

,hemp

,and jute waste

,

or in short almost any kind of waste produced from any of the

leading texti le fibres,excepting perhaps the more expens ive s ilk

fibre .

Single- bea ter Lap

-forming Scutching Machine,with HOpper

Feeder. (See Fig .

These machines are especial ly constructed for working waste

a nd prepare the laps for the breaking carding engine .

128 COTTON WASTE .

the scutcher wil l probably be set very close together on account

of the short nature of the material operated upon . In some cases

of clean waste i ndeed blank plates are placed beneath the beater

with few if any grate bars , so that the benefit of the Openingeffect of beater may be obtained without losing any of the material

as droppings .

Cotton waste is often very l iable to l icking owing to its soft,

short nature,and especia l ly is this true of broken -up hard waste

treated with the soaping apparatus . For this reason it is a very

common practice to use a creel i n front of the cal enders con

tai ning waste yarn or slubbing which runs in w i th the lap and

helps to keep each layer to i tself . This involves a certai n expense

and labour in keep ing the creel bobbins going.

There is,however

,another serious evi l attendant upon this

practice,viz . that of marking the wire on the carding engine , and

often considerable damage has been done i n this connexion . An

arrangement,however

,has been devised by which a number of

wires act on the cotton Sheet near the cages,and stroke the lap

Sheet into a more sol id condition,thus diminishing the lap - l icking

evi l .

A regular lap is quite as important in the man ipulat ion of

cotton waste by the condenser system as it is in ordinary cotton

spinning,Since there are draw - frames to make uniform sl ivers .

For this reason when cotton is fed loosely to the scutcher— a very

common occurrence— it is usua l to apply a hopper feeder to the

scutcher . As a matter of fact— apart from the question of expen se,

i t is probably a stil l better practice to use two hopper feeds to

the scutcher,the second one being equipped with a regulator

which keeps the cotton in the feed box at something l ike a uni

form height . In cases of a very smal l plant the scutcher may

be omitted a ltogether,and each card fitted with a hopper

,but if

there are,say, half a dozen or more breaker cards i t will prob

ably pay to use the scutcher with hopper,and feed the breaker

cards with laps of cotton waste . In such a case a girl may

easi ly attend to the scutcher .

Although scutchers for cotton waste sometimes conta in beatersor cyl inders of a special character

,such as picker cylinders

,the

more usual practice is to employ an ordinary double or treble

blade -beater . Productions much as for cotton,say 8000 to

lb . per week . I t is much more satisfactory to have a hopper

THE OPENING AND CLEANING OF COTTON WASTE. 129

fender a ttached to the scutcher,as hand - feeding and spreading are

likely to give variat ions i n the weight per yard of the laps .

The link of tripod regulat or is the bes t for such a scutcher,

on account of the amount of fly and dirt,s ince these arrange

ments do not need . the bowl box and its fricti on bowls . Such

dist inct ive features as beater blades,Shrouded to prevent cotton

sticking,cross - cut feed -rollers to give a good grip on the short

fibre,fluted calender rol lers

,special creels for holding COps from

which the yarn is run off i nto the lap to prevent lap - l icking —aremore or less found on scutchers for cotton waste .

Attention to oil ing and cleaning, the production of good

selvedges on the laps , good exhaust flues for the dust , good

belts and ropes kept under proper tens ion are as important in

these scutchers for cotton waste as in those for ordinary raw

cotton . I t is a lso best to have down-drafts with the dust cel lar

below the breaking room .

Hard E nds.

One of the most frequent evils i n using cop-bottom or other

hard waste cons ists i n hard ends or port ions of thready waste not

sufficiently broken up . A waste-spinner natural ly d isl ikes these

hard ends as they prevent draft ing -out and cause many broken

ends . Possible causes are cylinders in the cop -bottom machine

out of order,or under -speeded , or slack belts and ropes for driving

the cylinders, or uneven feeding of the waste. Insuflicient grip

ping of the cotton by the feed - rol lers at this machine may lead to

plucking the waste through in lumps .

The Crighton .

The ordinary s ingle Crighton is sometimes used instead of the

w i llow for soft waste and is best fitted with an i n ner oil chamberto the footstep of the Crighton Shaft

,this being surrounded by a.

water -bath to keep the foots .ep cool . Also the Crighton is bestfitted with a grid which can be raised or lowered as required

,so

as to put the bars closer to or farther from the beater . This particular feature is helping the Crighton to be adopted to good

Egyptian cotton i n ordinary fine spinning,s ince it helps i n pre

venting cat- tail ing of the cotton or stringing it .

CHAPTER IV .

THE CARDING OF COTTON WASTE .

THERE are very mater ial differences between a modern carding

engine used for ordinary cotton carding and those used for the

carding of cotton waste . In a genera l way the most noticeable

d ifference is seen in the fact that the revolving flat card is now

a lmost universal ly adopted for ordinary cotton Spinning , whereasthe rol ler and clearer card sti l l reigns pre - eminent for the carding

of cotton waste . The more open treatment of the cotton fibres i n

the roller and clearer card ,the turning over and mixing of the

fibres by the action of the rol lers and clearers,the abil ity to pass

comparat ively heavy bodies of fibres through the rol ler card, and

a lso its abili ty to treat cotton as much as required without taking

out much waste , are features which have helped to ma i ntain the

supremacy of the roller and clearer card for cotton waste,long

after it has completely lost its hold in the treatment of raw cottoni n the ordinary cotton spinning and carding processes .

Rollers and Clearers.

It will be as well if we just remind our readers of the dis

tinctive feature of this particular style of carding engine . Instead

of flat s being placed near the upper half of the cylinder,a series

of what are termed rollers and clearers are placed in this posi t ion,

a rol ler and a clearer necessari ly working In partnership with

each other , and six or seven pa irs of these rol lers and clearers

fill ing up all the ava ilable Space . Each rol ler or worker has a

comparat ively Slow revolut ion ,so that its surface speed might

average 28 or 30 ft . per minute , whi le its companion clearer,

a lthough of smal ler diameter , has the much higher surface speed

o f poss ibly 400 ft . per minute . In waste carding , owing to their

c omparatively high number of revolut ions , and their sma l l dia

meter,the clearers are often made of wrought - i ron tubing , each

of the Six clearers having a diameter of possibly 21 i n . or 24 i n

(130)

132 COTTON WASTE .

the first clearer and reach the roller which is further from the

l i cker - in . The slow revolution and the oppositely pointing wire

teeth of the rol ler would now help’ to Open out and card the en

tangled portions of fibre,some of the fibre pass ing forward with

the cyl inder,and some adhering to the teeth of the roller . When

these fibres on the roller come Opposi te the clearer , the latter

will probably sweep the fibres from the clearer owing to increased

speed of tcleareri and direction in which the teeth point . In ex

actly the same way the stil l greater surface Speed of the cylinder

will cause the latter to take the fibres from the clearer , so that

the fibres wil l have then been transferred from cyl inder to roller ,from roller to clearer

,and then back aga i n to the cyl i nder . It

is highly probable that the cotton wil l have been now sufficiently

Opened so that i t will penetrate the cyl inder teeth and be now

carried forward by the cyl inder to the doffer . One pa ir of rol lers

and clea’

rers would be utterly inadequate i n Operating upon all

the entanglements of fibre,and any such that may escape one

pair wil l lprobably be acted upon by a subsequent pai r . It is

quite possible for some portions of fibre to be Operated upon and

transferred backwards and forwards several t imes over . Just as

in the case of the flats of a revolving flat carding engi ne , a good

proportion of dirt and impurities of one kind or another are

fastened in or upon the teeth of the cyl inder , rol ler , and clearer ,so that we have the dual card ing Operat ion of opening and clean

ing of thegcotton . In the case of having Six pa irs of rol lers and

clearers there wil l be only six real ly and ful ly effective cardingpoints

,namely

,the nearest point of each of the six rol lers to the

cylinder ; while there will be twelve carding points of much less

value represented by the nearest posi t ion of clearers to cyl inder

and roller to each clearer. A very l i ttle reflection will lead any

one to the natural conclusion that the Opening and cleaningcapaci t ies of rollers and clearers are much inferior to those of

the flats of a revolving flat card,and all experience has demon

strated this, so that for ordinary cotton carding purposes the

rol ler and clearer card has nearly been defunct . In such cases

one sing le revolving flat card appears able to do quite as much

effective scarding as one double roller and clearer card.

In Spite of all this , double rol ler and clearer carding is the

almos t universal system in connexion with the carding of proper

cotton waste, and reasons for this are given near the beginn ing

THE CARDING OF COTTON WASTE . 133

of the present article . The double roller and clearer card so

largely used for carding American cotton a quarter of a century

ago contained only one feed part and one del ivery,although

having two cylinders and two sets of rollers and clearers . This

system is not in favour for the carding of Cotton waste , the ao

c epted me thod being to employ separate breaker and finisher

cards,each with its own feed and del ivery arrangement . In

what is termed the Scotch feed ,however

,the cotton is automatic

a l ly transferred from breaker to finisher .

Specifica tion of Cotton-waste Card.

By way of conveying a general idea of the construction of a

cotton -waste carding engine the following specification of an

eminent machine-making firm is given : Single breaker carding

engine,50 in. on the wire

,

‘with lattice feed to receive two laps

from scutcher ; one pair of feed rol lers 24 in . diameter when

clothed with inserted wire ; one humbug roller 34 i n . diameter

when clothed with inserted wire taker - in 94 i n . diameter , clothed

with inserted wire ; cyl inder 50 i n . diameter ; seven rol lers, 6 in .

FIG . 23.—Breaker Card .

diameter ; Six clearers , 24 i n . diameter ; one clearer, 4 i n . dia

meter , next above l icker - in,with or without dirt box ; one wood

fancy , 12 in . diameter ; one fancy stripper,3 in . diameter ; doffer ,

30 in . diameter , and improved fly doffer comb ; galvanized iron

rai l between fancv with door ; wood cover over doffer . (SeeFig .

Wood cover over doffer , with door to fit close to cover over

fancy ; recess in bends for traverse of Horsfall’

s card grinder ;taker- in rollers and clearers with wrought - iron case -hardenede nds , and cast Shrouds at each end which case up the same ;

134 COTTON WASTE .

rollers prepared for chain or band driving ; wood covers and

cover holders complete , and i ncluding division sheet with door,

improved casing to l icker- in,and tin -bar casing to cyl inder with

patent setting arrangement .”

The Cylinder.

Except in the methods of starting and stopping the cyl inders

and i n regard also to kind of card wire employed , there is l ittle

difference between the cylinder of a cotton -waste card and that of

an ordinary cotton card . As regards driving, the differences may

come in more particularly when automatic mechanism is em

ployed for transferring the cotton waste from breaker to finisher

carding engine . Take,for example

,the best-known arrangement

for the purpose , viz . the Scotch feed ,i t is necessary to stop and

start both the breaker and finisher cards almost simultaneously,

and to do this i n the readiest manner often the two may be

driven from the same top counter - shaft from which a separate

bel t each reaches down to breaker and finisher . The counter

shaft itself may be driven from another belt running on fast and

loose counter - shaft pulleys . By moving this one belt from lbose

to fast pull ey both cards may be started at one time , and the

reverse movement of bel t wil l stop both cards together . Variousi ndividual parts of the card may be stopped and started i nde

pendently on much the same lines as for a cotton card .

The Wire Covering .

Referring now to the wire covering , i t wil l be understood that

this should be of a coarser and stronger character than for cotton

counts of 40’

s or 6o’

s,for example . It is well known that many

descriptions of card clothing exist,and i n part icular there are

many sorts of wire more or less i n use .

For cylinders and

doffers two riva l forms of card clothing have been in compet itionfor a great many years

,vi z . filleting and sheeting . Fi l lets of

card clothing cut to about 2 i n . wide,made of suflicient length

to clothe a whole cyl inder without piecing,and wound in a close

pitched Spiral upon the cylinder,have almost driven the old

sheets of clothing out of the market as regards ordinary cotton

cards . In the carding of cotton waste,however

,distinctly differ

ent conditions obta in,and i t is quite a common practice to cover

the cylinder of a cotton -waste card with Sheets of card clothing

136 COTTON WASTE .

for certai n sorts of waste,so much with the more usual one of

feeding with laps,as it does with the method of spreading the

cotton by hand upon the lattice at the back . In Spite of the

manifest advantages of the hopper feeder,there are some people

who stil l prefer the hand -spreading method ,and al though this is

the more cos tly system as regards labour , there is not the first

cost of the feeder to be debited to capital . In a manner of speak

ing this automatic feeder is a kind of cross between the one used

for a cotton opener and one used sometimes i n the wool trade .

Nearly all our readers are familiar with cotton Openers , but they

FIG . 24 .— Breaker Card with Hopper Feeder.

are not familiar with the wool machine,and a very brief descrip

tion of one is given below . In one case used in the woollen trade

the wool is automatical ly taken up,weighed ,

and fed uniformly to

the scribbler,which is almost the equivalent to a cotton Opener or

scutcher . This is known as the Bramwell automatic feeder,and

was going i n the wool trade before hopper feeders were introduced

in the cotton trade . In this machine the wool is put into a large

box having a grating at the bottom for any dirt to fal l through ;and the wool is taken upwards by a Spiked or toothed elevatingapron . Towards the top of the apron the wool comes under the

Opera tion of an oscillat ing comb which strokes back any large

pieces of the material,the remainder being Spread more or l ess

THE CARDING OF COTTON WASTE 137

u‘

niformly along the surface of the elevator . On the other Side of

the elevating apron there is another combing arrangement which

sweeps the wool from the l i fting apron and passes i t along to a

kind of weighing scal e . This scale is built up of two curved

wings , held together by suitable weights,and the whole suspended

on steel kn i fe edges . When the scale has received the required

quant ity,i t l iberates a smal l trigger

,which causes a project ion to

catch on one of the teeth of a revolving disk; connected with an

automatic clutch,which disengages the driving belt Operat ing the

toothed apron,thus instantly stopping further del ivery of material

to the scal e,which now rema ins at rest . When the proper time

a rrives the wings of the scale are Opened ,and the wool is de

pos it ed upon the feed - la tti ce i n a perfectly Opened state and i n excellent condition for the cards . Some of the ideas incorporated

in the foregoing description are ut il i zed in the automati c feeders

for waste breaker cards,but are al tered and improved to suit the

Special c ircumstances of the case .

Double Lap Method.

When i t is remembered that draw frames are almost unknown

in the treatment of cotton waste,and i n the condenser system

there are absolutely no machines between the finisher card and

the spinning mule,i t wi l l be then understood that some effort

FIG . 25.—Cotton Waste Carding Eng ine.

must be made to secure a uniform Sl iver or strand from the card

ing engine . As regards the breaker card there are mainly threerival methods designed to secure the requisi te uniformity of feed ,

and the carder must choose which one of the three he shal l em

ploy . First of all we have the hand - spreading system in whichthe operat ive spreads the cotton as uniformly as possible upon

138 COTTON WASTE .

the feed- lattice ; and let it be remembered that hand spreading of

cotton even for a scutcher has been known to give exceedingly

level work when done by a suffi ciently careful operative . As a

rival to this we have the automatic feeder above al luded to .

A third system— Shown in fig. 25 and very extensively

adopted— is to place two full -width scutcher laps upon the latticefeeder of the breaker card

,one behind the other

,so that we have a

doubl ing of the laps,and a mixing of the cotton which produces an

excel len t effect i n level l ing up the work . In this connexion it

may be thought that even this is a very l im ited doubl ing effect as

compared to that which is common to ordinary cotton Spinning .

While this is so we are not to forget that a 10 per cent error in

counts too coarse would give us a 90’

s yarn instead of 100’

s,a

10 per cent error in 5’

s waste condenser yarns would only make

hal f a count in difference,and i f too coarse would give us 44

s

counts instead of 5’

s . Furthermore,a s l ight error in counts of a

cotton waste yarn need not appreciably affect the qual i ty of a

cheap cotton blanket ; nor make the actual weaving process much

more difficult ; but properly spun cotton yarns always need to be

as uniform as we can reasonably get them to be . The doublelap system has the addit ional benefit of uti l izing the piano - feed

regulator at the scutcher,so that we have two factors which in

this system help to give a level sl iver,viz . the doubl ing effect ,

nd the regulating effect of the piano motion .

Single-Breaking Carding E ngine.

(40 in . or 48 i n . wide on wire .) (See fig .

For comber waste broken -up cop -bottoms,and other kinds of

hard waste,with patent Side - drawing and si ngle coi l ing and can

motion .

Specification— Pattern C 7 .— One cyl inder 50 i n . diameter .

One doffer 25 in . diameter . One taker- in 9 in . diameter . Seven

rol lers 5 in . diameter of iron,or 6 in . diameter wood lagged .

Seven clearers 3 i n . diameter . One fancy 7 i n . diameter wood

lagged,driven by rope direct from the cylinder . One humbug

rol ler 3 in . diameter under the feed roller and taker - in . Im

proved concentric bends . Steel cover and shel l ends to taker- in .

Pol ished mahogany covers over rollers,clearers and fancy .

Rol lers driven by chai n or rOpe . D ish feeder with one fluted

roller 24 i n . diameter,and arranged to receive one scutcher lap .

140 COTTON WASTE .

Shel l ends to rol ler,clearer

,and fancy bearings .

Feeder arranged to receive two scutcher laps .

Ang le -bar undercasing s in halves,with improved setting

a rrangement to cyl inder and taker - in .

Taker - in covered with inserted wire .

Illustra tion— The pattern of bend i llustrated has been super

s eded by the concentri c pattern Shown on page 20.

Unless the stee l cover over fancy is Special ly ordered,the

mahogany cover is conti nued over the fancy and fitted with door .

Production — About 1000 lb . of broken -up cop-bottoms

,comber

waste , etc .,per week of fifty- six hours .

D imensions,Weights , Speeds , etc. (See fig .

Approximate Weights andSpace Occupied . Driving Pul leys. Outside Measurement .

Length. Width . Diam. Width. Gross. Net . When Packed .

10 ft. 6 ft. 20 in . For3 in. 75 to 90 About 14 68 52 320 cub . ft.

3 in . 10 in. belt. revs . I .H.P. cwts. cwts.

Methods of Feeding the Finisher Card.

Prev iously we have given a discussion and description of the

method of preparing laps for the finisher carding engine by means

of the Derby doubler . It mus t , however , be understood that

several systems are more or l ess i n use in cotton -waste carding

for transferr ing the cotton from breaker to finisher cards . There

are,for example

,the D erby doubler

,the lap drum method

,the

Scotch . feed,and the improved lattice feed . Moreover

,either i n

treating cotton waste or i n wool and worsted carding there are

other feeding arrangements such as bank feeds , ball ing machines ,Blamire

s feed , Skelton’

s feed ,and spooling frames . Wi th these

latter four of five arrangements we do not propose to deal as they

refer so l ittle to existing practice in the carding of cotton waste ,we can wel l afford to ignore them . As a matter of fact , theScotch feed and the Derby doubler are far and away the most

used of any feeders or other arrangements for preparing the

c otton ready for the finisher card .

THE CARDING OP

'

C OTTON WASTE . 141

fThe Lap Drum.

A very few words will suflice to say all that is necessary about

this process . There is a large drum connected to the del ivery of

the breaker or the scribbler which aids in the roll ing up of laps

by frictional contact with the fleece of cotton stripped from the

doffer by an ordinary doffer comb . A stop -motion may be

applied by which knocking off occurs when any required thick

ness of lap has been attained . The lap drum is not used now so

much as it formerly was , and i t is a very primitive and simple

arrangement . Simplicity of itself is no fault,but unfortunately

this is accompanied by irregular work,and by a considerable loss

of production owing to frequent stoppages while the full laps are

being removed in turn from the drum . The necessity for doingthis work somewhat frequently practical ly makes the card an

intermittent machine,and i t has become an axiom in carding that

a carding engine should be a continuous worker, and even in

ordinary cotton carding few people will enterta in the idea of

having a card fitted with an automat ic stop-motion of any kind .

With the D erby doubler system the delivery of the breaker

card is quite on the well -known principle of an oscillating combfor the doffer

,a pai r of catenders, and an ordinary ganand coiler

motion,which permits changing empty for fullk canswitghout inter

fering with the working of the card. the Scotch feed and

improved lattice arrangements the saving in labour is even

distinctly greater than with the Derby doubler as we explai n belowin the present article .

The Scotch Feed. (See fig.

The Scotch roper and Scotch feed arrangement is probablybetter than any other for most kinds of low grade cotton wastes ;i t automat ical ly collects and condenses the cotton from the breaker

card,and feeds the same to the finisher card in an equal and

Continuous manner . Apart from any saving of labour that may

result from not using the Derby doubler,there are some classes

of cotton waste which it is not wise to pass through the Derby

doubler,as

,for example

,waste that is of an oily character

,or low

grade wastes,which are better left in the Open fleecy condition

given by the Scotch feed . Such wastes,compressed by the

weighted rollers of the doubler,become too matted and consoli

142 COTTON WASTE .

dated,and ' this puts more work upon the parts of the finisher

carding engine . Naturally this remark applies somewhat to all

classes of waste , but not to the same extent to clean , soft better

sorts of waste for the finer counts of waste yarns . In such cases

the D erby doubler mai ntains the fibres i n a more paral l el con

dit ion,and i n particular it tends to give a more level and uniform

s l iver and yarn than any other system,especial ly in the finer

counts . This is,perhaps

,the greatest argument for the use of

the Derby doubler , si nce i t needs specia l attention of i tself,and

the coilers and cans Of the breaker also need attention . The

c ross ing of the fibres given by the Scotch feed is an advantage

in very coarse,soft wefts

,Since crossed fibres give a fuller and

more oozy finished yarn than do paral lel fibres,the ful l appear

ance being well suited to cotton blankets and flannelettes . For'

the coarser low grade wastes the Scotch feed system imposes a

good deal l ess work upon the taker- in of the finisher card,and

there is much less danger of damaging the cloth of the taker - in .

In the Scotch feed system the cotton waste is stripped from

the doffer of the breaker by an ordinary fly comb,and is del ivered

upon a lattice running along the lower front of the doffer,and at

r ight angles to the doffer . This latt ice collects and condenses

the fleece of cotton from the doffer,and as a rule turns the fleece

round at right angles,while it is condensing the same into a

ribbon perhaps four inches i n width . The latt ice i tself may be

about five inches i n width,and for thick

,coarse work the Sheet

or ribbon of cotton may atta in that width . E xcept i n some

tandem cards the narrow ribbon of cotton waste passes between

three calender rol lers at the s ide of the breaker card , thus being

c ompressed and consol idated by a two - fold compression into

suflicient compactness to stand its own weight without breakingThis completes what may be termed the del ivery part of the

breaker card and the term Scotch roper is often applied to the

a rrangement as so far described , leaving the term“Scotch feed

to be appl ied more Specifical ly to the rema inder of the arrangement

.This narrow sheet of cotton waste is now l ifted up by an

overhead combinat ion of pulleys and narrow lattice work,re

volving at about the same surface speed as the three bottom

calenders , the top lattices also being only about five or SIX i nches

i n width .

Assuming the breaker and finisher cards to be placed side by

144 COTTON WASTE .

chain or belt may be used which carries a stud or pi n loosely con

nected to the base of the travell ing carriage . It is easy to see

how this revolving chai n takes the carriage parts in any one

direction,but the reversing of the movement presents Somewhat

diflicult features . The driving stud passes round a pul ley at each

reversal,and has to sl ide up or down as may be in its connecting

s lot w i th the carriage . Perhaps this arrangement may be best

compared with some of the travelling scavengers sometimes used

for automatical ly cleaning the rol ler beams upon mules spinning

coarse yarns and making a good deal of fly . As stated,the top

lattice must be very flexible,and may, for instance , be composed of

very flexible side belts,connected byl ight but strong wood cross

bars,although practice varies i n this respect . The top latt ice of

the Scotch feeder may be driven round by a thin cord reachingupwards from the calenders which del iver the cotton final ly from

the breaker card . This card is carried from one pulley to another

of the top lattice in the required manner .

FIG . 27 .-Hetherington

’s Carding Eng ines with Scotch Feeder.

It is not absolutely essential for breaker and finisher cards to

be placed s ide by s ide,and i n many cases the two machines are

placed tandem ,or one behind the other . To meet such a case

one method of Operating the Scotch feeder is to drop the cotton

from the doffer comb upon two Short lattices,which both revolve

towards the centre , and i n this way converge and condense the

cotton fleece into a loose ribbon form ,and then the ribbon passes

through cal enders working in a l i ne with the middle of the doffer

i nstead of at the Side . There is no difficulty whatever in arrangingthe overhead carrying motion and the travers ing Scotch feeder to

suit card instal lations i n which the front or del ivery of the breaker

is laid tandem with the feed of the finisher instead of zigzag .

As Shown in fig . 27, the Scotch feed is a convenient method of

conveying the cotton waste from the breaker doffer to the feed

lattice of the finisher card,and its use is practical ly equal to two

THE CARDING OF COTTON WASTE . 145

doubl ings . The fleece of cotton,as taken from the doffer of the

breaker by the doffer knife or comb,is drawn away in a long Sl iver

upon a narrow cross- latt i ce moving paral lel with the doffer comb

and face of the doffer .

This lattice del ivers the sl iver thus formed through a conductor

to the condensing rollers,from which it passes to an overhead

la ttice creeper,hal f of which is balanced and can swing up and

down .

From the end of the swing balance the Sliver passes down to

a pai r of rollers i n a frame which is moved backwards and forwardsfrom one Side of the finisher- card lattice to the

'

other by a Slowly

travelling belt .As it moves from one s ide to the other

,the rollers which it

conta ins deposit the sl iver regularly upon the feed lattice just

underneath,the speed of which can be so regulated that the

thin edge of one Sl iver overlaps that of another,thus producing

a regular feed . A cord is attached to the travell ing frame,and

passi ng round a pulley fixed in the centre of the card is made fast

to the swing balance of the overhead creeper,the end of which is

also verti cally over the middle poi nt of the traverse of the frame .

In this way the end of the overhead creeper is drawn down as

the travelling creeper approaches the end of each traverse and

a l l owed to l ift as the centre is approached .

Tin Rollers.

The t in rollers i n the travell ing frame have pinions on the

ends of their axles,which gear one with the other . The ends of

the rollers work in a piece pivoted in the centre which enableseach of the rollers i n turn to be put in gear with a stud pinion

,

compounded with a band pulley around which a cord '

passes and

is attached to each side of the card .

The Derby Doubler. (See figs . 28 and

Double carding in the cot ton trade is nearly as old as the

factory system itself,s ince i t was very soon demonstrated that

suflicient cleaning and Opening of the cotton fibres could not be

obta i ned from single carding i n many cases with the cards then

in use. D ouble carding in the ordinary cotton trade has not

entirely disappeared even yet , although in mos t cases i t Simplyseems to drag on a weary existence for want of suffici ent mone

10

146 COTTON WASTE .

and enterprise to clear the cards out and replace them with the

revolv i ng flat. I t ought to be said,however

,i n this connexion

that a few firms still find a market for super - carded yarns,and

pass the same cotton through two revolving flat cards to produce

the requ ired effect . The part icular and principa l pq ose of the

present article is to descr ibe the method or methods of prepar

i ng the sl ivers from the breaker card into a suitable form for

feeding to the fin isher card . Practical ly the only method in use

i n connexion with the double carding for ordinary cotton Spin

ning purposes was to employ a machine termed the D erby doubler .This machine is pract ical ly a combinat ion of the lap - forming

rollers and other parts of a scutcher with the sl iver and Spoon

lever stop motion of a draw frame . The Derby doubler in such

a case usually produced laps equal to the full width of the

finisher card,say,

from 36 i n . to 44 i n . i n width as required .

According to the width of the lap and the thickness of the Sl iver,

the number of cans of Sl iver used at the feed part of the machine

used to vary from about 55 to 70, or more . For instance,i n one

particular case the present writer had to do with,the lap produced

was 39 i n . wide,and 60 back cans were used

,the finished sl ivers

being suitable for a 44 hank roving . This particular machine wasdiscarded long ago to make way for s ingle carding . In connexion

w i th the cotton trade,the Derby doubler is now

,or has been

,

employed in three different connexions . (1) As the medium

between breaker and finisher in ordinary cotton carding ; (2) tofulfil a simi lar purpose in the treatment of cotton waste ; (3) to

prepare laps for the cotton comber in mills which do more or less

of combing . As stated , the machine is now almost Obsolete for

o rdinary cotton carding,and i t is a good illustration of the truism

that extremes meet when we find that it is yet in general and

extensive use for fine cotton Spinning,and is also largely employed

i n the coarse cotton -waste trade . AS used for the several purposes

above explained ,the Derby doubler differs very little in principles

of construction and action,but there is considerable difference in

s i ze and some difference in detai l . To take the two extremes,we

have al ready stated that ful l-width machines taking up to 70

s l ivers at a t ime,for laps 40 i n . or more in width

,were used in

o rdinary cotton carding,and this would be quite poss ible i n

c arding cotton waste i f it were deemed the most convenient

practice . Usual ly,however

,in the cotton -waste trade it is the

148 COTTON WASTE .

its applicat ion the Operative would have to exercise a much closersupervision upon the cans and sl ivers

,and this would take up a

good deal of time now given to other purposes . Each spoon lever isfinely balanced

,so that the weight of the Sl iver keeps the spoon or

head part down ,and therefore holds the tai l or Opposite end of the

Spoon out of the path of an osci l lat ing bar,or else a rotating wing

roller . Absence of the cotton permits the ta il of the spoon leverto enter the path of the oscillating bar

,and to arrest its move

ment . In this way a latched Spring rod is released,and a

strong spiral Spring at once moves the driving belt upon the loose

pul l ey . There is no essentia l difference in principle between thisstop -motion and the mechanical stop -motion used on the draw

frame by the same makers . The spoons may be arranged neatly

down each Side of the V- shaped table and the sl ivers are con

ducted by suitable guides,and drawn round almost at right angles

,

SO as to come close together to form an equa l sheet of cotton .

Mere placing Side by Side would scarcely give a sufficiently homo

geneous Sheet of cotton , as the several sl ivers would reta in too much

of their i ndividual ity . To obviate and partial ly overcome this

separateness i t is usua l to pass the sheet of cotton between heavy

calenders,much the same as on an ordinary scutcher

,this being

a very conven ient thing to do . Fi nal ly,the laps are formed upon

almost the same exact principle as upon a scutcher .

Such is a description of the process upon the Derby doubler .

An average machine of this description might occupy a floor space

of 13 ft . 8 in . x 6 ft . 24 in . D riving pulleys about 12 i n . diameterby 12 in . width for both fast and loose pulleys . Speed of driving

pull eys about 200 revolutions per minute . Speed of l i ne shaft anddiameter of drum on same proportioned to give the above . Power

required per machine about one I .H.P. Gross weight about 50 cwt .

,

net weight 40 cwt . Measurements about 125 cubic ft . The

length of the driv ing belt required would of course be decided by

the posi t ion and height of the l ine- Shaft or counter- shaft . I t may

be explained that for different makers there may be a di fferent gear

ing arrang ement from pul ley Shaft to calenders , and lap rollers

and a lower Speed of pul ley Shaft would be required in such cases .

Derby Doublerfor CottonWaste. Wm. Tatham and Son,Rochdale.

This machine is for the purpose of forming the s l ivers taken

from the breaking carding eng ine into laps for the finishing card

i ng engine .

THE CARDING OF COTTON WASTE . 149

It is found that the yarn produced from instal lations where

this machine is adopted shows the best result as to regularity of

c ounts and appearance of the yarn . I t is especially suited whenspinning counts

,say 5

s to 12’

s,from broken -up hard waste ,

c omber waste , etc .

Two designs of this machine are made,either as fig . 28 to

make laps half the width of the finishing engine feeder,or as

fig. 29, more recently introduced ,to make laps fu l l width

of the

fin ishing engine feeder .

Specification—Machine to make half- laps , fig. 28 : For engines4 8 in . wide

on wire it is prepared for forty - eight cans to make

FIG . 28 .—Derby Doub ler for Narrow Laps .

laps 234 in . wide . For engines 40 in . wide on wire it is prepared

for forty cans to make laps 194 in . wid

Machine to make full -width laps,fig . 29 : For engines 48 in .

w ide on wire it is prepared for n inety - six cans to make laps 465}in . wide . For engines 40 in . wide on wire i t is prepared for

eighty cans to make laps 3854 i n . wide .

An automat i c stop motion is fitted which stops the machine

when an end breaks or a can runs empty,also a knocking-Off

motion to stop the machine when the lap is full diameter .

Illustrations — Fig . 28 machine to make half-width laps . The

s l ivers from the cans (which are not shown) pass over the Spoonsto the taking- in rollers

,then the sl ivers are drawn Over the V

shaped table and pass between heavy calender rollers to the lapforming arrangement . The laps are wound on to a wooden

150 COTTON WASTE .

barrel 4 i n . diameter,and are kept in posi tion endways by two

disk plates set close to ends of calender rollers . The laps are

consolidated by means of a top cal ender roller, which l ifts as the

laps become larger in diameter .

Fig . 29 machine to make full -width laps . The construction

and working are as above described,with the exception that

the laps are formed in a different manner . They are wound on

to a hollow wooden barrel 4 i n . diameter,kept in posit ion end

ways by two disk plates fitting close to ends of calender rollers .

A lap rod is passed through the disk plates and wooden barrel ,and pressure is applied to ends of the lap rod by means of two

vertical racks .

FIG . 29 .—Derby Doubler forW ide Laps.

The ma in advantage of full -width laps is that there is lesslikelihood of irregular yarn caused sometimes by the clearance

between the half- laps varying in width .

It is advisable that a D erby doubler as used in the treatment

of cotton waste should be strongly buil t at the lap head , or other

wise breakdown may occur too frequently . It is the modern

practice to make the various parts to template so that they are

i nterchangeable,this being a convenience in the case ‘of renewal or

breakdown .

I t is usual to apply a ful l lap automat ic stop-motion to eachDerby doubler

,and natural ly such a motion will be simplified and

modified from the one used on a scutcher,so as to suit the fact that

there are no cages to be stopped and started,and no fan or beater

to be considered .

152 COTTON WASTE .

I t has been usual to make 2 laps each 24 in . wide on the

Derby doubler and put these end to end behind the finisher card .

An objection to this practice is the bad piecing in the middle

of the card width where the two lap ends come together . Partly

for this reason the Derby doubler is now sometimes made to pro

duce laps the ful l 48 in . width .

The Derby doubler appears to find more use i n the manipula

tion of hard waste,and the Scotch feed more in the case of soft

waste and perhaps l ower counts .

The card clothing for cyl inder needs an exceedingly strong00foundation

,as much as 4 in . thick sometimes .

Improved Lattice Feed. (See fig

I t must be particularly noted that the Scotch feeder always

turns the web of cotton and therefore the individual fibres over at

right angles to the direction in which they leave the breaker,and

presumably the fibres are thus more crossed with each other than

in the D erby doubler system . It is doubtful whether any work

able system of automati c transference Of cotton waste from breaker

to finisher could qu ite overcome the crossed condition of the fibres,

owing to the doubling up of the fibres which must a lways

occur in transferring cotton from cylinder to doffer,and to the

manner in which the doffer comb cleans the cotton fibres from

the doffer . I t is pos'

s ibl e,however

,to have a method which does

not cross the fibres as much as the Scotch feed,and which does

not cross the ribbon of cot ton at all,but feeds i t with all the fibres

pointing the same way i n which they leave the breaker . Messrs .

Asa Lees Co .

,of Oldham

,attai n this part icular object by means of

thei r improved lattice feed,or the Soho feed

,as it is sometimes

termed,after the name of the firm . When the “ Soho ” feed is

employed the fleece of cotton from the doffer of the breaker dropsdown a sui table s l ide , and is folded by a pai r of rollers upon a

floor lattice i n front of the del ivery of the breaker card . Upon thislattice the rollers deposi t many layers of cotton one above

another,and so make a double sheet of cotton waste

,about 16 in .

wide,and which may consist of as many as twenty thicknesses

of cotton web . The bottom la ttice i tself,upon which the folded

cotton web has been deposited,always has a sideways movement

similar to the much narrower one of the Scotch roper delivery,

and i n this way the 16 in . width of cotton is continual ly given to

THE CARDING OF COTTON WASTE . 153

a double elevating latt ice arrangement for all the world similar

to that used for lifting the cotton up from ba le breaker to top of

c otton mixing stack . The double vertica l'

lifting latt ices carry

the cotton over to the finisher card ,and at this poin t the cotton

is laid upon the feed lat tice of the finisher,with a continual half

lap almost exactly as i n the case of the Scotch feeder. The

fleece or ribbon of cotton in this case never is turned round at

right angles as with the Scotch feed . The double lifting latt ices ,the distributing rollers , and the top lattice wOrk have all to be

of sufficient width to deal with a sheet of cotton 16 m . wide as

against 5 in . wide with the Scotch feeder .

FIG . 30.— Improved Latt ice Feeder.

A press lattice or press board may be employed at the feed

lattice of finisher to keep the cotton waste wel l down to the feed

rollers . It may be noted that both the dish feed with one feed

rol ler and also the double feed roller system are more or less i n

use in cotton -waste carding . A lso in regard to the Derby doubler

system,i t has been previously pointed out that most people make

narrow laps upon the Derby doubler,and then place two of these

end to end at the finisher card . Some people,however

,are be

g inning to favour the one wide - lap system,partly because there

is sometimes a thin,weak place in the cotton web from finisher

,

due to the two narrow laps not coming perfectly up to each

other in the middle of the card .

154 COTTON WASTE .

The “ Fancy and “ Humbug Rollers.

To any person more or l ess conversant with ordinary cotton

carding these two names,

“ Fancy and“ Humbug

,sound very

curious,as neither one nor the other name is appl ied to any part

of an ordinaIy card , nor are the equivalents of those two rollersused at all. The “ fancy

”is an extra roller 10 i n . or 12 in .

diameter,placed after the last of the ordinary rollers i n a waste

card,and immediately over the doffer . The specia l Object of the

“ fancy is to raise the Short fibre a l ittle out of the cyl inder wire,

so that the doffer can then strip the cyl inder much more perfectly

than it otherwise could . The “f ancy has a very high surface

speed— faster,in fact

,than any other part of the card ,

— even ex

ceeding the surface Speed of the cyl inder itsel f by possibly 20 per

cent or so. It may be bui l t of wood,covered with somewhat

coarse wire,

_

and set to penetrate the teeth of the cyl inder for

poss ibly41

3in . or so. Inthis way, with the contact surfaces of

cylinder and fancy revolving in same direction ,the effect is to

raise the fibrous material more or less out of the cyl inder teeth .

There may be a galvanized iron rai l between the“ fancy and

the next roller above i t,and an iron cover over the “ fancy

,with

door . The “ fancy”

may be applied to both breaker and fin isher

cards,i n each case being driven from cyl inder by bel t and flat

pulleys,the driving pull ey on cylinder reaching 30 in . or more

in diameter on occasions . I t does not always happen that thefancy can keep itself sufficiently clean

,and in many cases i t has

fitted to it a smal l stripper,which cleans the fancy

,

”and returns

the fibre agai n to the cylinder,much in the same way that the

stripper or clearer acts for its own roller .

The Fancy Roller.

In reference to . the use of the fancy rol ler in the present

systems of cotton -waste carding,it is well worth noting what

E van Leigh said in regard to the “ fancy more than thirty years

ago,as then used for ordinary cotton carding For heavy card

ing a fancy roller,which is a roller which overruns the periphery

of the cylinder,is sometimes used with advantage . Its object is

to prevent the cyl inder from choking,and therefore rol l ing and

nepping the cotton . NO engine can poss ibly card well unless the

main cylinder can be kept clear ; therefore , the fancy roller , by

156 COTTON WASTE .

observed that where a fancy is used great care Should be taken,

first,that i t is balanced to a n icety ; secondly, that it Should be

so driven that its periphery runs with certainty a l i t tle faster than

that of the cyl inder (say about one-Sixth) ; thirdly, that it should

be clothed with wire having nearly straight teeth ; fourthly , that

i t should be set close to the cyl inder , without touching , otherwise

the cotton is driven down into the cyl inder wire,and gets wedged

i n .

We must remind our readers that present cotton -waste cards

have the fancy placed over the doffer,and its teeth penetrate those

o f the cyl inder .

Single-Finishing Carding E ngine. (See fig .

(40 i n . and 48 in . wide on wire,fi tted wlth improved ring-doffer

condenser . )Specification— Pa ttern C 8 .

—One cyl inder 50 in . diameter .One doffer 25 in . diameter . One taker- in 9 i n . diameter . Seven

rollers 5 i n . diameter of iron,or 6 i n . diameter

,wood lagged .

FIG . 3 1.—Sing le F inishing Carding Eng ine .

Seven clearers 3 i n . diameter . One fancy 7 in . diameter,wood

lagged,and driven by rope direct from cyl inder . One humbug

roller 3 in . diameter under the feed rol ler and taker - in . Improved

concentric bends . Steel cover and Shell ends to taker - in . Polished

mahogany covers over rollers,clearers

,and fancy . Rollers driven

b y chai n or rope . D ish feeder with one fluted rol ler 24 in .

THE CARDING OF COTTON WASTE . 157

diameter,and arranged to receive four half-width or two full

width D erby doubler laps . Improved pattern dofling comb and

motion,and improved ring-doffer condenser with dividing rol ler

,

one pai r bobbin drums,inside pressing rol lers

,rope driving from

cylinder,etc . The condenser system is genera l ly adopted when

a level,soft

,full or oozy yarn for weft is required .

Special Features — The concentri c bends are of improved

type , and the roller,clearer

,and fancy brackets

,etc .

,are adjusted

by means of 49

4in . screws and two hexagona l nuts

,both vertical ly

and sideways,one screw -key now fitting all the nuts

,and the

combination provides the strongest , simplest,and best arrange

ment on the market .

Self-oiling ring bearings to fancy .

The doffing comb is very strong,and the driving motion has

been re-designed, and the crank arm is secured to the doffingcomb by means of a split boss .

Messrs . Tatham say :

The ring-doffer condenser is found from experience to make

the best qual ity of yarn ; i t is simple in construction,easy to work ,

and most suitable for broken -up cop bottoms . The doffer isclothed with carved rings , the sl ivers from which are kept separate

by means of‘ leather dividing- rings 4 i n . wide . The counts of

yarn regulate the number of rings , which range from about 26rings for NO . 5

s to 40 rings for NO . 10’

s counts . After being

doffed the sl ivers are carried forward by means of a grooved

dividing roller to a pai r of endless rubbing leathers,which

,by the

combined action of a crossways and forward movement,rol l or

condense the sl ivers i nto threads ; these are next wound on to

long bobbins provided with steel flanges which are taken direct

to the mule .

E xtras— Specia l steel-hinged cover and rai l to separate the

fancy from the roller above , and filling-up pieces with smal l

grooved Shaft under the fancy ,with shell ends to bearings . (In

lieu of extending the mahogany cover over the fancy as pef speci

fication .)Shell ends to roller , clearer , and fancy bearings .

Angle -bar undercasing in halves,with improved setting arrange

ment to cylinder and taker - in .

Pat ent for perfecting Side - ends .

Taker-in covered with inserted wire Shows the engine fitted

158 COTTON WASTE .

with the special steel -hinged cover and rai l over fancy , and

filling-up pieces , with smal l grooved shaft under fancy as named

in extras ; if desired , same can be supplied with the mahogany

cover continued over the fancy and fitted with door as named

i n specification .

Production— About 650 lb . of broken-up cop bottoms , comber

waste,etc .

,for counts

,average 8

s per week of fifty- six hours .

D imensions,Weights, Speeds , etc .

ApproximateWeights andSpace Occupied . Driving Pul leys. OutsideMeasurement

Length . Width . Width. Cross.

14 ft. 6 ft . for 3 in . 65- 85 revs. about 2 80 cwts. 60 cwts . 360 cub .

1 in . 10 in. strap . I .H.P.

Ta tham’

s Breaker and Finisher Cards Combined with Scotch

Feed. (See fig,

I t is mostly adopted for 1’

s to 5’

s from soft waste such as

scutcher droppings , card fly , clearer caps , strippings , sweepings , oily

waste,etc .

Specification—Si ng l e breaking carding engine , pattern C 7 , 48in . wide on wire , with one cylinder 50 i n . diameter . One dofl

'

er

25 in . diameter . One taker-in 9 in . diameter . Seven rollers 5 i n .

diameter of iron or 6 i n diameter , wood lagged . Seven clearers

3 in . diameter . One fancy 8 i n. diameter,wood lagged

,and driven

by rope direct from the cylinder . One humbug roller 34 in .

diameter under the feed rol lers and taker - in. Improved concentric

bends . Steel cover and Shell ends to taker-in . Rol l ers driven by

chai n or rope . Plate feeder with one pa ir of fluted rol lers arranged

to receive two scutcher laps . Improved pattern doffing comb and

motion,and patent Side dra wing with endless belt

,gearing and

cover . Angle-bar undercasings i n halves , with improved setting

arrangement to cyl inder and taker - in .

Patent Scotch feeder with sliver conductor,overhead creeper

and ba lance for traverse of sl iver , and one pa i r feed rol lers prepared for covering with inserted wire or filleting .

160 COTTON WASTE .

work . The doffer is clothed with card rings,the sl ivers from

which are kept separate by means of leather dividing- rings 4 in .

wide . The counts of yarn regulate the number of rings,which

range from about 14 rings for No . 1’

s to 30 rings for No . 4’

s .

After being doffed the sl ivers are carried forward by means of a

grooved dividing roller to a pai r of endless rubbing leathers,

which , by the combined action of a crossways and forward move

ment , rol l or condense the sl ivers i nto threads . These are next

wound on to long bobbins provided with steel flanges which are

taken direct to the mule .

The patent Scotch feeder is an arrangement which takes the

web from the side drawing of the breaking engine,and crosses

same in even layers on the feeder creeper of the finishing engine .

The feeder is made from new models constructed on an improved

principle so as to dispense as much as possible with change wheels

i n case the web is to be a ltered in weight . The driving of the

overhead creeper,the traverse of the carriage , and the turning of

the web rol lers i n the carriage are all driven from the creeper rol ler

on the s ide drawing,and not one part of the mechanism from

the breaking engine and another part from the finishing engine .

It can a lso be worked at a quicker speed without breaking the

web . Also the overhead lattice is supported from the feeder

sides thus obviating a pillar being fixed to the ceil ing or on the

floor .

E xtras — Special steel -hinged cover and rai l to separate the

fancy from the roller above , and filling -up pieces with small grooved

shaft under the fancy , with shel l ends to bearings . (In lieu of

extending the mahogany cover,as per specificat ion . )

Shell ends to rol ler , clearer , and fancy bearings .

Patent for perfecting s ide - ends .

Taker - in covered with inserted wire .

Illustra tion— The i llustration shows the breaking and finishing

engines set Side by s ide,but they are occasional ly set tandem to

suit floor Space requirements . For i l lustrat ion of ring doffer con

denser see page 270 .

Production - About 1000 lb . of soft waste counts 1’

s to 5’

s

per week of fifty- six hours .

Space Occup ied— Breaking engine , 11 ft . 4 i n . by 6 ft . 10 in .

Fi nishing engine with ring-doffer condenser,13 ft . 7 in . by

6 ft . 10 i n .

THE CARDING OF COTTON WASTE . 161

Methods of Delivering Cotton Wastefrom Finisher Cards.

Previously we have somewhat fully described the variousmethods of transferring the cotton waste from breaker to finisher

carding engines,and we have definitely referred to and described

the lap drum method , the Scotch feed method ,the Soho feed

,and

the Derby doubler system

The Preparation System.

In the same way there are various methods of deal ing with

the cotton at the del ivery of the finisher card,the best known

methods being : (1) the coiler system, (2) the ring-doffer system

,

(3) the tape condenser . Tape condensers are made in variousforms and under different specific names . The first or coiler

system is quite an old form,and is perhaps the one most of any

s imilar to the ordinary cotton card . Instead of one can or

coiler only being used ,the comparat ively thick fleece of cotton

is divided out into four or six parts upon the doffer,principal ly

through the medium of the requisite number of dividers placed

between the cyl inder and doffer . E ach one of these four or Six

portions is formed into a sl iver and coi led inside an ordinary card

can in the usual well -known manner . The card front presents.

the novel appearance of having four or six cans of sl iver , all being,

filled at one t ime,and each now qu i te independent of the others .

The cans may be the same s ize as ordinary cotton cans,or they

may be- rather less i n both diameter and l ength . As suming we

desire to make a yarn equal to about 7’

s counts at the mule,then

each card sl iver may equal 14’

s or 14’

s counts,and at the slubber

it is convenient to produce a 44 hank bobbin of much the usua l ,

size from an ordinary slubber or i ntermediate . The bobbins .

from the slubber are taken direct to the waste spinning mule,and‘

are here put into a creel,after the approved cotton spinning

method . This is,of course

,a departure from the orthodox

method of condenser waste spinning,and equal ly it is a departure

from ordinary cotton spinning . This “ preparation ”system

,or

quadruple coiler system of cotton waste carding and Spinn ing

appears to be los ing ground in favour of the more extreme system

of adopting the condenser .

162 COTTON WASTE .

The R ing Dofier System.

The ring doffer condenser system is a present day rival of the

tape condenser in the carding of cotton waste , and in England ,

a t any rate , the ring doffer appears to be holding its own aga i nst

its more ambitious rival , the tape condenser , a lthough the latter

permits cotton to extend over all the ful l width of the doffer in a

continuous fleece,whereas the ring doffer only has strips of

cotton interspersed with spaces . I t must be understood that in

what is termed the ring-doffer system the doffer is not covered

with a long fil let wound spirally round the doffer in one piece

from end to end . There are Simple rings of fill et placed on the

doffer,each one complete of i tself . Suppose thirty-one sl ivers

or Slubbings were required to be made at one time,then thirty

one i ndependent endless r ings Of fil l et,each 14 in . wide

,would

be secured on the doffer , and between each pa ir of fillets there

would be an endless l eather band 4 in . wide . During grinding

the l eather bands are ground at the same time as the wire of the

filleting ,and Should be as smooth as can be got. I t must be

now understood that as the cotton is transferred from cyl inder

to doffer,the cotton fibres naturally divide out at the leather

ri ngs,and each 14 in . fil let takes its own particular portion of

the cotton,and makes one particular strand of cotton . The

cotton natural ly follows the wire -covered portions of fi llet instead

of the smooth rings of leather , and thirty-one individual strandsresult from thirty-one rings of fillet . Leaving the doffer each

s trand or end of cotton enters a V- shaped space in what is termed

the dividing roller,and a natural condensi ng action takes place

here,by which somewhat of a concentrat ion of the sl iver occurs .

In a way of speaking , the use of the divid ing rol ler gives a sl ight

advantage to the ring-doffer,as compared with the tape condenser ,and efforts have been made to imitate the di v iding roller effect

on the tape condenser .

Rubbers .

Leaving the dividing roller , the several strands of cotton come

w i thin the range of action of what are termed the rubbers .

These cons ist of two endless l eather bands reaching the width of

the card ,and presenting about 16 i n . or so of surface for the

cotton waste strands to pass between . The term rubbers is applied

164 COTTON WASTE .

setting of one part to another is Obtained in the waste mill as i n the

ordinary cotton mil l .

Unlike the case of the ring doffer , the cotton in the tape con

denser is stripped from the doffer i n a continuous fleece,and

immediately passes through a pai r of feed rol lers to what are

often termed the space rol lers . I t is at these space rollers that

the cotton is first divided out into separate strands,whereas this

initial division is done at the doffer itself in the ring-doffer system .

In the case now of a double condenser,which is perhaps the

most common one for cotton waste,there are two sets of tapes

,or

one set conducted in a specia l manner round the space rollers SO

that the action is the same as having two tapes . E ach leather tapemay be , say, three - quarters of an inch wide

,and it must be under

stood there are two Space rollers— a top and a bottom one— and

the leathers on top roller are opposi te the Spaces on the bottomroller

,and correspondingly the leathers on bottom roller are

opposi te the pol ished meta l Spaces on the top roller . The cotton

fleece having been stripped from the doffer by an ordinary doffer

fly- comb

,passes i n a continuous width through the feed rol lers

to the space rollers,and between these latter rollers i t is readily

Spl it up into two sets of strands or ends by the Oppositely set tapes of

leather . There may,for example

,be thirty good ends

,and one

Spoiled selvedge end of cotton waste , passing along to the top con

denser rubbers,and the same to the bottom ones . One set of

strands is conducted by guide rol l ers and the tapes i n an upward

di rection,and another set i n a downward direction . Wi th regard

to the rubbers themselves,they are endless leather bands

,the

working width of the machine,two rubbers working together

with the cotton between them . As regards the length of the

rubbers or amount of rubbing space act ing on the cotton at

one time,an idea of this may be formed when we state that the

centres or distance from centre of one rubber guide rol ler to thecentre of the other may be 124 i n . and 134 in . respectively .

The Rubbers .

It must be well understood that these rubbers have a double

action,the one being a continuous forward movement , by means

of which the cotton strands are del ivered on to the long condenser

bobbin . The other is a rapid lateral reciprocat ing movement of

possibly 4 in . stroke or so by means of which the cotton waste

TH E CARD ING OF COTTON WASTE . 165

s trands pass ing between the rubbers are rubbed as between the

hands of a person,unti l they are suffi ciently sol id to wind on and

o ff the long condenser bobbins . The eccentrics for imparting thelateral reciprocation to the rubbers are fixed upon a vert ical shaftdriven rapidly round by a cord from the cyl inder

,these eccentrics

and their action presenting a somewhat imposing appearance

to the person who first witnesses a waste card at work . AS a rule

i t is possible to alter the extent of stroke imparted to the rubbersby these eccentrics . The rotary movement of the rubbers may beimparted by the wheel gearing at the Opposi tes ide of the card from

the eccentrics . Leaving the rubbers,the numerous strands are

conducted round a long condenser bobbin,which is driven round

by frictiona l contact with a wood roller of possibly 5 in . or so i n

diameter ; and i t is possible for a ful l condenser bobbin to attain

a maximum diameter of about 9 i n . i n a comparatively short

t ime,varying with the speed of the card

,and the thickness or

c ounts of the strands of cotton . Assuming thirty good ends,each

end or strand may occupy a width of about 14 in . upon the long

c ondenser bobbin,and there are guide wires su itably traversed Side

w ays to help in placing the cotton ends upon the bobbin . Thus

e ach strand is quite independent of its companion strands,although

they are all wound side by side upon the condenser bobbin .

This disposi t ion is taken advantage of i n the case of the can spinn

ing frame formerly described,i n order to draw the individual

round portions of cotton over the end of the condenser bobbin in

qu i te separate order,and to then use one coil in each shal low can

at the can machine . It is usual to have each long condenser

bobbin somewhat Shorter than the combined spindle gauge of the

number of spindles served at the spinning machines i n order to

a llow for flanges,etc . In ordering machines

,therefore

,care

‘must be taken that the long condenser bobbins are a l ittle Shorter

than the spindle Space ; also that the number of spindles i n the

Spinning machine absorbs the whole of the good threads placed

upon the condenser bobbins . A waste mule of 300 Spindles , for

example,would absorb the full complement of ten condenser

bobbins,each contai ning thirty good ends . Various devices have

b een used more or less in connexion with the narrow tapes of the

tape condenser . In one recent example a specia l feature consistsin the arrangement of the latter with a hal f- twist in it , and as

they are in this way prevented from touching each other it is

166 COTTON WASTE .

claimed they can be made wider than with other tape con

densers . This helps i n dividing the fleece of cotton more accurately,

which is so much better for the uniformi ty of the produced

strands of cotton,and therefore of the finally Spun yarn . When

any web of cotton has been divided by the tapes i t is necessary to

carry the strands wi thout friction along to the rubbers . In recen t

machines the condenser is strongly constructed,and the eccentrics

to give the motion to the rubbers are Special ly made with a view

to reduce vibra’

tion . Al l wheels now have teeth cut from the solid

by most makers .

Weights , Speeds, etc .,of One-Breaking and One-Finishing

Engines, 48 in. wide, with Scotch Feeder and Ring

Dofi’er Condenser. (See fig .

Approximate Weights and OutsideDriving Pul leys . Measurement.

Diam. Width. Gross.

20 in . for 3 in. about about 4 150 cwts. 112 cwts . 700 cub . ft .belt . 100 revs . I .H.P.

Pa tent “ Leather-Tape Condenser. (See fig .

This condenser,built on the latest “ Saxon principle , is

similar in construction to what is general ly adopted by continental

spinners ; i n this country it is occasional ly substituted for the

ring-doffer condenser,particularly when a low cost of production

rather than good qual ity is desired,and is used for both good

and low grades of soft waste .

The production from the carding engine with “ Tape con

denser is much greater than from carding engines fitted with the

ring-doffer style of condenser,and is of especial advantage when

i t is desired to Spin finer counts than,say, No. 3

s in large - Si ze d

cops .

Thexweb from the doffer is stripped by the doffing comb in a

wide sheet which then enters the condenser . By means of the

travell ing leather tapes,i n conjunction with certai n rollers

,i t is

Spli t into sl ivers,which are then conveyed either upwards or

downwards over rollers to the top or bottom pair of rubbing

168 COTTON WASTE .

Waste Carding . Side Slivers .

Many deta i led improvements have been affected in regard to

waste carding and spinning during recent years .

AS elsewhere fully explained the doffer of a waste condenser

card— made on the ring-doffer principle— is divided into equa l

Spaces across its width by means of l eather rings . The web is

taken up by the filleting between these rings and is rolled by

means of rubbers into threads .

There has always been a certai n amount of trouble and loss i n

connexion with the end sl ivers , owing to their irregularity , and

sometimes this has led to cloth being returned,owing to the yarn

on the billey Spun Cops from these s ide sl ivers being SO uneven,

and giving thick and thin places i n the cloth . In other casesthe Side sl ivers have been al lowed to go into waste for using

over aga in before risking defective ya

In one device for overcoming this particular ev i l of Side sl ivers,

and g iving better yarn and cloth thereby,the usual rings for

dividing the doffer are employed,and in addition an extra narrow

ring at each end to al low all Sl iver caused by the draught of the

card and lumps adhering to the rollers to be doffed in the usual

manner,but not to be carried through the rubbers . At each s ide of

the doffer,Opposite the irregular card sl ivers

,tubes are fitted .

The tubes are coupled to a principal tube connected with a

machine (one for every eight cards) consist ing of a fan and

necessary gearing for driving the same and for producing a

draught to draw the irregular sl iver from the condenser card to a

pair of cages,which del iver i t in condition ready for going back

to the lap machine without other preparation .

Pa tentfor Perfecting Side-Ends in Carding Engines. (Seefig .

This patented arrangement invented by Messrs . Kinsman and

Hopkinson consists i n arranging the number of rings on the doffer

into equal spaces as required,and i n addition an extra ring at each

end to a l low all irregular sl iver— caused by the draught of the card— and lumps adhering to the rol l ers and clearers to be doffed by

the comb in the usual manner,but not to be carried through the

rubbers and on to the condenser bobbin .

At each side of the doffer are placed ,Opposi te the irregular

THE CARDING OF COTTON WASTE .

s ide sl ivers , vert ical tubes which are fitted at each side of the divid

ing rol ler,carri ed down below it

,and coupled to a main tube

,at

the end of which is fitted the machine as il lustrated .

FIG . 34 .—Tatham’

s Apparatus for Side Ends in Cotton Waste Cards.

The machine is provided with an exhaust fan to draw away

the irregular Sl iver which passes down the tubes , and delivers the

waste between two wire cages in a loose web (see i l lustration) i n

a state to be returned to the mixing . One of these machines will

draw away the waste sl iver from eight carding engines .

The patented arrangement surpasses anything hitherto devised

to overcome the difficulti es with regard to the s ide - end cops .

Advantages The outs ide threads or rovings are made

equal to any other thread with the minimum amount of waste .

(2) A Cop can be made ful l s ize the mule is made for . This

c annot be done when the cops from the side - ends are variable in

diameter .

(3 ) The Spinning is greatly improved . It 1is wel l known tha t

about 25 per cent of broken threads which have to be pieced up

at the mul e are from side - ends .

(4) The picking out and rej ect ing of s ide -end cops is now

obviated ,which means a large saving .

The patent machine saves endless trouble , and produces more

regular yarn and consequently more even cloth .

170 COTTON WASTE .

D imensions,Weights , Sp eeds, etc.

ApproximateWeights andSpace Occupied. Driving Pul leys. Outside Measurement .

Length. Width. Diam. Width.

SpgfglP

er Gross.

2 ft. 2 ft . 4 in . 14 in. about 400 about 4 5 cwts . 3 cwts . 40 cub . ft .

8 in . 6 in . revs . LE .P.

Remarks on Cotton-Waste Carding .

In so far as this country is concerned ,the use of the hopper

feeder for automat i cal ly feeding the cotton in a loose level sheet

to the breaker card is by no means SO much in favour as the

method of first making laps of the cotton waste at a scutcher

much in the usual way. This lat ter practice permits the prel iminary scutching treatment of the cotton waste , and also helps

i n the matter of uniform work by the use of the feed regulator at the

scutcher . But this latter effect is also a ided by the doubl ing oftwo or even three lap sheets together behind the breaker card .

In just the same way it is common enough to feed four laps from

the D erby doubler,behind the finisher card

,two laps being placed

end to end to make the ful l width of card . As a matter of fact

sometimes six laps are used in this fashion behind the finisher

card,so that cases exist in which three laps may be seen working

at the feed of the breaker,and also Six narrow laps working as

three wide ones at the'

feed of the finisher .

During the twenty years or S0 of its existence the firmof Messrs . Tweedales and Sma l ley has obtained a reputat ion

in connexion with the manufacture of various machines connected directly with cotton spinning . It is therefore not to be

wondered at that they make also cotton -waste carding engines ,Since their works are adjacent to or practical ly in the centre of a por

tion of country in which there are very many mil ls devoted to the

manufacture of yarns and cloths from cotton waste . They makean up

- to -date carding engine set,i n which the breaker card con

tains seven rollers and five clearers,with a

“ fancy roller devoted

to the Sl ight raising Of the Short fibres of cotton waste from the

main cyl inder , i n order to help in the transference of fibres from

172 COTTON WASTE .

The hOpper of the feeder is kept supplied with loose material

by the attendant , who puts i n a quantity at i ntervals of time it is

carried upwards by means of an incl ined spiked latti ce,and is then

s tripped by a comb and fal ls i nto a scale pan . After the required

weight has been depos ited the incl ined lattice stops,the scal e

Opens automatical ly at regular i ntervals , which can be adjusted to

suit,and the material fal ls on the travell ing lattice of the carding

engine and is spread evenly SO as to give a regular feed .

The feeder is driven by means of a belt from cyl inder of card

ing engine .

Space Occupied—When the patent automatic feeder is substi

tuted for a double scutcher - lap feeder it adds 2 ft . 2 i n . to the length

of the engine .

Approximate Weights , Sp eeds, etc . (See fig .

Approximate Weights and OutsideDriving Pulleys . Measurement .

Diam. W idth.

Speed Per Gross.

min.

14 in . 3 in . 100 to 1 I .H.P. 184 cwts . 124 cwts . 72 cub . ft.

110 revs .

Tatham’

s Single Finishing Carding Engine with Patent Quadruple

Ceiling and Can Motion.

(40 i n . and 48 i n . on the wire . ) (See fig .

The coiler or preparation system is recommended when broken

up hard waste is to be made up into yarns where strength is

required rather than evenness,and when counts finer than 8

s or

lo’

s require to be spun .

Specification— One cylinder 50 in . diameter . One doffer 25 i n .

diameter . One taker - in 9 in . diameter . Seven rollers 5 i n .

diameter of iron or 6 i n . diameter , wood lagged . Seven clearers

3 i n . diameter . One fancy 7 i n . diameter,wood lagged

, and driven

by rope direct from cylinder . One humbug roller 3 in . diameter

under feed rol ler and taker- in . Improved concentric bends .

Steel cover and shell ends to taker- in . Pol ished mahogany coversover rollers , clearers , and fancy . Rollers driven by rope or chai n .

D ish feeder with one fluted roller 24 in . diameter,and arranged

THE CARDING OF COTTON WASTE . 173

to receive two half-width or one full -width D erby doubler laps .

Improved pattern doffing comb and mot ion ,and patent quadruple

coil ing and can motion .

Special Features—The concentric bends are of an improved

type,and the roller , clearer , and fancy brackets

,etc .

,are adjusted

by means of screws and two hexagon nuts,both vertical ly and

sideways , tone screw -key now fitting all the nuts , and the com

bination provides the strongest,simplest

,and . best arrangement

required .

Self- oiling ring bearings to fancy .

FIG . 35.— F inisher Card , with Quadruple

-

Coi lers.

Thedofling comb and the driving motion have been re-designed,

and the crank arm is secured to the dofling comb by means of aSplit boss .

Patent quadruple coil ing and can motion . The fleece from

the carding engine is separated into four or more sl ivers,either

by steel - blade dividing apparatus,or by placing leather dividing

rings 4 in . wide between the card rings on the doffer . The sl iversthen pass through funnels

,between a pair of calender rollers to

the coil ing motion and i nto cans,which are usual ly taken to a

slubbing frame,the bobbins from which are then ready for the

creels of the self-acting mule or ring frame . Occasionally for the

174 COTTON WASTE .

lower counts the cans from the finishing eng ine are taken direct

to the back of the self-acting mule .

Extras—Special steel -hinged cover and ra i l,to separate the

fancy from the roller above,and filling

-up pieces with smal l

grooved shaft under the fancy , with Shell ends to bearings as

i l lustrated . (In l ieu of extending the mahogany cover fitted with

door,as per Specification . )

Shell ends to rol l er , clearer , and fancy bearings .

Angle - bar undercasings i n halves , with improved setting ar

rangement to cylinder and taker- in.

Sextuple coil ing and can motion,i n l ieu of quadruple coiling

and can motion ,for the finer counts .

Feeders to receive four hal f-width or two full -width Derby

doubler laps .

Taker - in covered with inserted wire .

Fig . 35 Shows the special steel -hinged cover and rai l over the

fancy,and filling

-up pieces with smal l grooved shaft under fancy

as named in extras . This is frequently applied to finishing

engines i n l ieu of the mahogany cover with door being extended

over fancy as named in specification .

The proved concentric bends have been substituted for the

pattern illustrated .

Production— About 1000 lb . of broken -up cop bottoms,

comber waste,etc .

,per week of fifty

- Six hours .

D imensions,IVeights , Speeds, etc .

Approximate Weights andSpace Occupied . Driving Pul leys. OutsideMeasurement.

Length . Width . Diam. Width. Gross.

10 ft . 6 ft . 20 in. for 3 75 to about 14 75 cwts. 55 cwts . 350 cub . ft.

0 in . 10 in. in. belt . 85 revs. I .H.P.

Adjustment of Rollers and Clearers.

I t may be as well to expend a word or two upon the method of

sustaining and adjusting the various rollers and clearers that are

employed on a roller and clearer card,whether used for the card

ing of ordinary cotton or cotton waste . There is,of course , no

176 COTTON WASTE .

rigid bend all in one piece,separate and i ndependent filling - in

pieces are provided for the necks of the rol lers and clearers .

Necessarily these filling - ih pieces are secured to the main bendsby suitable bolts , and also the requisite finely threaded screws

are provided for securing the adjustments before described .

The filling - in pieces can be made to fol low the curvature of the

cyl inder i n the required concentric manner,and can be moved

along the bend to the exact posi tion required . Fi nished facingsare used for the roller brackets to bed aga i nst , and therefore

to obtain and ma intain the requisite accuracy in working and

i n adjustment . Very fine plans of breaker and finisher cards are

ASA LESS a co LTD

16 o

FIG . 37 .— Plan of Breaker and F inisher Cards with Improved Lattice Feeder

shown in figs . 36 and 37 by permission of Messrs . Asa Lees

Co .,of Oldham . Fig . 36 i ndicates the Scotch feed and fig . 37

the Soho feed or straight -fibre feed .

Flat Card.

I t has often b een remarked that it is a pecul iar circumstance

that the roller and clearer card Should reta i n its posit ion , prae

ti cal ly unchal lenged,for the carding of cotton waste , and yet it

has become almost obsolete in the carding of ordinary raw cotton .

THE CARDING OF COTTON WASTE . 177

Why, for example , should the revolving fiat card obta i n a hold

in this branch of trade,especial ly when it is remembered that

double carding is wanted on the roller and clearer principle ? Is

it not possible to so modify the revolving fiat card that single

carding on this machine may do as well as double carding on the

roller and Clearer principle

The “ Humbug ,” “

Fancy, and “ D irt Rollers .

There are two Special rollers used'

on cotton -waste cards

which a lways attract a certain amount of curios ity on the part of

the man accustomed only to ordinary cotton carding . These are

the “ fancy ”and the “ humbug The “ fancy

”we have de

scribed previously as being used to raise the fibres a l i ttle out of

the cyl inder wire . The “ humbug ” rol ler is a different roll er

altogether,and occupies another posi t ion . It may be 3% i n .

diameter when clothed with inserted wire,and is placed beneath

the feed roller and taker- in . This rol ler serves some sl ight

cleaning purpose , and gives back to the licker - in some fibre that

would otherwise escape,having a good surface speed .

The dirt rol ler is another common feature of the cotton -waste

card,and is a very slowly revolving rol ler covered with coarse

wire and placed immediately over the l icker -in . It may haveeight or nine revolutions per minute

,and serves to take out hard

ends,and some heavy dirt . Formerly used

.

i n cotton carding with

roller cards .

It must be understood that neither the “ fancy rol ler,the

humbug roller,nor the dirt rol ler is to be found upon the

revolving fiat carding engine for the ordinary carding of cotton

As a matter of fact,however

,since a dist inct positionand use for

these three rollers is found in cotton -waste carding,different people

have cons idered whether it would be worth while to apply one or

other to the flat card . At the present t ime caSes exist in whichmodern revolving flat carding engines are working with Specia l

adaptat ions of the dirt roller placed over the l icker - in,and for

cottons contai ning a good deal of dirt there are to be found ad

vocates for this very Specia l practice . I t may be possibly worth

while considering how far the humbug,the fancy

,and the dirt

roll ers may be applied to cotton cards,but the present writer

is doubtful of their practical success .

12

178 COTTON \VASTE .

General Remarks.

In our previous pages we have at some leng th described

the processes and detai ls relating

to cotton-waste carding as carried

out in this country . As stated,

the subject is a very present dayone

,and without doubt a good

many more individuals are now

turning their thoughts much

more towards the util ization and

manufacture of cotton waste than

was the case a few years ago.

This is true in more senses than

one,because there is now

,i n the

first place,the far more extensive

use of such machines as roving

waste Openers,and many mills

now use these machines to Open

out their own bobbin waste,and

then mix the Opened waste with

their ordinary cotton mixings ,

whereas it was formerly much

more common to sell the waste,

although some p eople always did

use up such waste and manag ed

to pull and Open it i n a fashion

by means of their ordinary blow

room machinery . Then,aga in

,

we have the extensive adoption

of the comber for the combing of

the strippings from the flats of

the carding engines . There are

a lso hard - end extractors for re

covering the hard end from the

crow laps,or under clearer waste

of mules and ring frames,but

these do not appear to have met

with anything like the success

accorded to !cotton -waste combing and to the opening of bobbi n

180 COTTON WASTE .

Automati c tabl ing ,feed table with patent spreader and evener

,

three patent spiral feed rol lers , s ing le or double taker - in, swift

or cylinder 50 i n . diameter,with five pa irs of workers and uni

versal double doffing , cleaning , and separating device . Main doffer

36 i n . diameter , and various improvements . Josephy’

s patent

tape condenser , with narrow or broad rubbers as desired,and

special ly efficient pa tent rubbing motion ,four bobbiners

,with 92 t o

200 good threads , Six bobbiners with 150 to 240 good threads .

Tape Condensers.

It must be qui te understood that the ring-doffer condenser isconsidered to be somewhat out of date on the Continent of E urope

,

a lthough all our own investigation leads us to the conclusion tha t

i n England it is yet the favourite and most -used system for the

carding of cotton waste,since it is the oldest and Simplest arrange

ment . As previously stated , tape condensing is , however , on the

increase in E ngland,and the Josephy types claim to be up to date

i n tape condensers . The latest improved type of tape condenser

combines all the advantages of Josephy’

s previously successful

types . It has proved to be well adapted for various classes of

materials,both long and short fibred

,and a lso mixed . The

latest type is made in three models ; (1) Wi th narrow rubbers

and specia l rubbing stroke for all l ightly rubbed materials, par

ticularly as referring to cotton waste ; (2) with broader rubbers

for strong rubbing forwool and woollen waste (3) with extra broadrubbers and three adjustable pressure rollers

,and special rubbing

motion to replace the cumbersome tandem rubber .

Josephy’

s latest improved fluted roller patent tape condenser

is the general term applied to this condenser . It is claimed that

very many of Josephy’

s tape condensers have been sold, and

especially so when it is cons idered that quite a number of specia l

devices relating to tape condensi ng have been placed on the

market by different firms since the first introduction of tape con

densing on the initiation of E rnest Gessner in 1868 . Up to this

time the ring doffer was the universal device for Splitt ing up the

fleece of cotton waste from the cyl inder into the requisite num

ber of individua l slubbing strands . Since 1868 many improve

ments have been made in tape condensers,and

,as before stated

,

we are informed that the old- fashioned'

ring doffer has become

almost obsolete on the Continent , and is there considered to be

THE CARDING or COTTON WASTE . 181

total ly inadequate in production required to suit an expending

business .

It is probably not too much to say that s imultaneously with the

introduction and rapid adoption of the tape condenser On the

Continent,comb ined with the splendid boom in ordinary cotton

spinning following the Franco-German war,Lancashire to a great

extent lost its busi ness in the carding and Spinning of cotton

waste to Germany,Austria

,and Belgium

,and during the last

thirty years the cotton -waste and al l ied trades have grown to such

an extent in these countries that Lancashire has been sat isfied to

ship a very large proportion of its cotton waste to the Continent .

This might not appear so bad were it not for the fact that much of

this waste is Spun i nto yarn on the condenser system on the

Conti nent,various coloured effects are produced by bleaching and

FIG . 39 .—Cotton Waste Card with Hopper Feeder.

dyeing the cot ton at one stage or another,var ious fancy effects

are produced by knopping and other means,and then a good deal

of such yarn is re- imported into Eng land . In these days of

cotton classes,text -books , i ncreased educat ion of Operat ives and

managers,i t does appear as if there ought to be now more of a

tendency in E ngland for all such work to be done in E ngland,at

any rate to the extent of not needing to import cotton -waste yarns .

I t ought to be the case that some of our largest Spinni ng concerns— and there are now some very large ones— ought to make some

profit out of us ing their own waste,especial ly in slack t imes .

A l l this , of course , is quite apart from the type or special make

of machinery put into use .

Double Dofiing Arrangementfor Cotton Waste Cards .

In regard to the Josephy condensers and the universal cardingprocess , we have to refer now to a very specia l feature of this card ,

namely , the adopt ion of a particular arrangement of the two

182 COTTON WASTE .

doffer system ,or the use of the ordinary doffer , and also an extra

and smal l er one,for the express purpose of more perfectly strip

ping the cotton waste from the ma in cyl inder the first t ime of

asking,and thus a iding i n quanti ty and qual ity of carding . The

Austrian machine makers can certainly cla im to have pa id so much

attent ion to wool and cotton-waste carding engines as to take rank

as special ists in this direction,and they have during many years

past devoted a large outlay of capital,a great dea l of t ime and

i ngenuity,and great energy to the further development of the

principle originally put forth by E rnest Gessner,i.e . the problem

of how to clear the main cyl inder thoroughly from all carded

materia l at every revolution of the same,and with comparat ively

smal l accumulat ions of dirt and fibre in the cylinder wire . I t

almost follows,if such an effect can be produced without corre

sponding disadvantage , that the output will be greater and the

yarn better .

It is claimed that in the universa l carding engineMessrs . Josephy

have solved the problem of more thoroughly cleaning the cyl inder

by the introduction of their double doffing arrangement . We

have careful ly studied diagrams relating to the origina l Gessner

arrangement with two fancies and two doffers,and find that he

employed two separate doffer combs and two lattices,which con

ducted the two separate webs to a pair of pressure rollers between

which the two webs are combined into one web for the condenser .

Now,l et us poin t out the special purpose of the double doffing

arrangement,as this is a very specia l feature not previously re

ferred to in this book . In this case there are two fancies and

two doffers,but there is only one del ivery and only one fleece

of cotton . The first fancy roller comes immediately after the

last of the five workers,and it opera tes upon the principle that

the cotton on the cyl inder can be divided into two portions,an

upper and a lower layer . The first fancy raises the upper layer

of cotton from the cylinder,conta ining a very large proportion of

the impurit ies,its surface revolving aga inst tha t of the cylinder

,

and its teeth pointing against the teeth of the cylinder. The

materia l picked up by the first fancy is conducted to the small

extra doffer which is placed immediately above the large lowerdofier

,which latter occupies practical ly the same posit ion as the

doffer of any other card . The smal l doffer revolves in the oppositedirection from the large doffer

,so tha t their contact surfaces

184 COTTON WASTE .

are never made,the broken -up cotton waste pass ing stra ight from

the bin into the hOpper feed in a loose form . A strong point ismade of the fact that ring doffers are not used ,

and that the tapes

of the tape condenser are comparatively narrow . Certa inly the

ring doffer does l imit the degree of fineness to which the material

may be reduced at the condenser . It is cla imed that from four

to six t imes as many good threads can be given on this universal

tape condenser as on the ring doffer , and that cop bottoms can be

reduced to counts 838 or so at the condenser , and then reduced to

12’

s or so at the final Spinning process without us ing much draught

at this process . About 4 ’

s counts is good at the ring doffer to

be reduced to 7’

s or 8’

s at the condenser mule .

Other Double Defier Condensers .

Such of our readers as are familiar with ordinary cotton

spinning machinery but not with cotton -waste or wool carding

must not imagine that the principle of using a double doffer is

pecul iar to the universal carding set,but a Special arrangement

of double doffer,double fancy

,and narrow tape condenser is

part of this carding machine .

There is,for example

,another type of double doffer arrange

ment which answers somewhat to the following description . The

doffers may each be 22 in . or 24 i n . diameter,and be mounted

one above the other with both in actual contact with the cyl inder,

and the two doffers separated only by a Space of about four in .

Upon each doffer are mounted card rings upon the principle of

the ring doffer previously described i n these pages,each ring

of fil l et representing one end of cotton waste . There may be the

usual dividing leather rings between the filleting rings , and the

special feature to be noticed in this double -doffer system is that

the rings of fillet upon one doffer are placed Opposite the spaces

of the other doffer . In a case,for example

,thirty- eight good and

two spoiled strands , then each doffer would be mounted with twenty

rings of fil let of 1% i n . or 11i n . width , with spaces between of the

same width,these Spaces being wider than is usual with the single

ring-doffer system,and the width of the carding engine be sui t

able to the number of strands of fibrous material taken off the

machine . Each doffer in this case is stripped of its strands of

fibre by a roller stripper,and has its own set of rubbers

,which

may or may not be arranged each on the tandem system .

THE CARDING OF COTTON WASTE . 185

Among the disadvantages of th is system may be mentioned

that the two doffers rarely del iver s l ivers of the same weight or

counts,Since the upper doffer genera l ly takes more than its share

of fibre from the cyl inder . This is so true that regularly the

strands or sl ivers from the upper doffer are Spun separately fromthose spun on the lower doffer . I t is cla imed that no such defect

FIG . 40.—Card for Cotton Wadding.

can occur on the Josephy or universal carding set,and this is a

strong point,because i t has always been found difficult to adjust

any condenser to strip s imultaneously at two places , and del iver

accurately two or more different sets of threads of the same

counts . In any case a double doffer condenser should be expected

to strip the cyl inder more perfectly than a Single condenser .

FIG . 41.— Card for Cotton Wadding .

Condenser Bobbins.

A wadding card as made by Hetherington’

s is shown in fig . 40

and one on the lap drum principle by the same makers i n fig. 41.

The long bobbin upon which the thin sl ivers from the con

denser card are wound , and which is taken direct from the front

of the card to the suitably arranged creel of the condenser mule,

has given trouble on many occas ions by developing one defect or

another .

One defect has been the l iability of the flanges to work loose

186 COTTON WASTE .

upon the central spindle , and thus a l low the end rounds of

sl iver to fal l out of shape , thereby causing many breakages of ends

to occur at the Spinning machi ne .

This has been often due to a want of proper support of the

flanges,as they have often been made with only a smal l hole

j ust sufficiently large to admit the long spindle which passes

right through the bobbin and is screwed up to bring the flanges

t ightly aga inst the wooden ends of the barrel or core . In such

cases when the latter shrinks the flanges become loose .

Yet another defect has sometimes been manifest i n the flanges

themselves,these being often made of thin sheet iron

,so that

when the bobbins are put down on the floor by the piercers the

flanges either cut the floor if i t is a wooden one, Or themselves be

come damaged if the floor be of stone . In a part icular improved

make of long condenser bobbin,the core is turned s l ightly

sma ller in diameter than the ma i n body at each end ,and on

these smal ler portions are fixed metal ferrules,provided at the ir

outer ends with square bosses i n the form of four separate pro

jecting pieces . The flanges are placed on these bosses and the pro

jecting pieces turned back upon them,thus securing the flanges

i ndependently to the bolt . The latter is then passed through

the hol low core of the bobbin and screwed up in the usua l way.

If the core shrinks longitudinally and the bol t becomes loose the

flanges will stil l reta in their rigidity and will also sustain the

shock if bobb i ns are thrown on the floor .

The Waste Card Condenser.

It is claimed for the tape condenser that it is much more

adaptable to different counts of sl iver than is the ring doffe‘r

A lso that i t is a more productive machine and will certainly

g ive far and away finer counts,especially i f a double or treble or

quadruple condenser be used . It is cla imed that 1000 lb . per

week may be g iven by a double tape condenser for 6 ’

s . As

against this i t may be urged that E ng l ish people are for the

most part more accustomed to the ring doffer and use is second

nature . Also that it is eminently sui ted to the med ium and

lower counts of cotton-waste yarns and to limited ranges of

counts . Yet another i tem in its favour is its extreme s implicity

and comparatively smal l l iabi li ty to get out of order . The

narrow strips of filleting on the ring doffer may be said to tear

188 COTTON WASTE

example , in some cases one of the rollers has been made to con

tinuously oscillate across the cyl inder in a s imilar manner to a

l ong grindi ng rol ler . Probably this is done to lay the cotton wel l

down on the cyl inder , and for the same reason one of the rol lersmay be driven much more Slowly than the others . These devices

,

however , partake a l i t t le of the nature of fads .

Preparation System.

This particu lar system,using a s lubb ing frame and us ing

creel bobbins at the mule,appears to be more especial ly used for

coarse twist yarns i n which greater s trength is required than in

weft yarns , owing to the friction and stra in put on the twis t yarn

a t i ntermediate stages , and at the loom by reeds and healds .

Waste Carding E ngines ; Double Cards .

I t is rarely that double cards have been used for cotton waste in

E ngland, a lthough i t is usual to double card the cotton by passing

it through a s ingle breaker card and then a Single finisher . By

double card as above is meant a card with two cyl inders and two

doffers but only one feed and del ivery .

D irt Roller.

The dirt rol ler is of dist i nct service on a waste card as its

c oarse wire adheres to a good many hard ends and a good

deal of dirt of various kinds . I t always has a very Slow

rotation .

The Humbug .

This sma l l roller (about 2 in . diameter) is placed beneath thel icker-in and serves the purpose of prevent ing the escape of fibre .

A similar roller may be placed beneath the doffer . There does

not appear to be any part icular reason forthcoming as to why

these terms of humbug and “ fancy”

should be used .

The Fancy.

This roller goes at a quick Speed,and practical ly raises a nap

of cotton on the cyl inder surface so that the doffer will afterwards

take the cotton from the cyl inder i n an efficient manner . Its lo ng

wires Should penetrate those of the cyl inder from -

1 i n . to TI

B i n .

deep .

THE CARDING OF COTTON WASTE . 189

Roughly speaking a scutcher for Waste may cost about £100,

a breaker and finisher card with condenser a bout £300,a hOpper

£30 to £35 . These prices were for about 1912. In 1920,prices

were approximately trebled .

Condenser.

The rubbers should do no more rubbing than is necessary for

the required consistency of the rovings,and may be possibly {5

i n . apart at the initial end,and easily close at the terminal end .

Press rol lers may be used in the centre of the rubbers to help

in keeping them better to the cotton strands . The rubbers Should

be as straigh t and l evel as possibl e across the width . Tapes

should be as accessible as possible to facil itate repairs or adjust

ments . It is considered best to have condenser bobbins which

look as ful l as possible for the particular counts .

Combined Driving for Cards .

Formerly it was common enough to drive a finisher card in

dependently from its finisher even with the Scotch or the lattice

feeders,but irregular resu lts were often obta ined from this practice

owing to one belt sl ipping more than its companion . By usinga common driving belt to breaker and finisher

,uniform s tarting

,

stopping,and driving are Obtained in this particular respect .

Also in connexion with Scotch feeders and lattice feeders,

chain driving for some of the detai ls is found to do better than

rope or belt driving .

Improved Waste Slubbing Frame for Prepara tory System.

This frame has been designed especially for cotton -waste

spinning,and is arranged to receive the cans from the finishing

engine with quadruple or sextuple coi l ing and can motions .

The length of l ift,diameter of ful l bobbin , size of top and

bottom rollers,and other deta i ls contained in these frames

,are

found from experience to give the best results , and the patterns

are qu ite up- to -date in every respect . The full bobbins are taken

either to the self-acting mule or ring frame . (See fig .

These frames are made in all lengths up to 152 spindles .

Speczfication .

— Spindles g in . diameter 9 i n . l ift,to make a

bobbin 4i in . diameter 6 in . pitch,24 in . staff. Flyers with Single

centrifugal pressers . Bobbin to lead . One l ine of tin rol lers and

guide wires behind . Three l ines of bottom fluted rollers,1 in . ,

190 COTTON WASTE .

in . and 1 in . diameter. Al l bottom - roller necks hardened . Sol id

top rol lers for one or two threads to a boss . Polished iron top

c learers for stationary cloth . Improved cone -lifting and strap

tightening motion . Ful l bobbin stop motion . Automatic locking

FIG . 43 .—Slubbing Frame for Cotton Waste .

door to jack motion ,and fitted with patent grip spindle rai l

and long col lars,or col lars can be fixed by two lock nuts ; patent

“ duplex traverse b ars and motion ; patent endless coneldrum driving belt Ormes

hank indicator .

FIG . 43A.—R ing Doffer.

A represents the Leather R ing , B the R ing of F i l let .

Special Features— Patent grip Spindle rail . The long collars

are secured by means of a Split boss with set screw attached to

the rails, giving a s imple and true method of fixing same and

e ffecting a saving in driving power .Patent duplex traverse bars and motion equali ze the pressure

CHAPTER V .

FINAL SPINNING MACHINES FOR COTTON WASTE .

Peculiar Sp inning Machines .

To very many persons i nterested in cotton spinning it is not

known that there are machines largely used in the spinning of

cotton waste or wool which are - entirely different in principles

and practice from either the sel f-acting mule,the ring frame

,or

even the flyer- frame .

The Can Spinning Frame.

One of'these peculiar Spinning machines is sometimes termed the

Can Spinning Frame In regard to the Spindles,this machine

is very largely buil t upon the l ines and principles of the well

known pirn winding frame so extensively used in connexion with

the winding of bleached and dyed yarns that have been treated

in the form of hanks,and are again re-wound in GOP form at the

pirn winding machine,ready for use as weft in the shuttle of

the loom . In the can frame the cotton strands from the longcondenser bobbins are used

,and are converted into yarn suitable

for the weft of coarse goods . On the waste mule,however

, the

long condenser bobbins are placed in the mule creel in complete

form as taken from the condenser,but this is not at all true of the

“can spinning frame In this latter case the long condenser

bobbin is made with a removable end or flange,and each separate

spool or round of cotton waste is drawn separately off the end of

the long condenser bobbin . This comparatively smal l portion of

cotton is placed inside a special can of the orthodox 9 i n . dia

meter,but only about 3 i n . or so deep . Each of these Shallow

cans is fitted with a lid containing a central aperture through

which the cotton strand is withdrawn at the can Spinning

machine . The use of these cans consti tutes the most distinc

(192)

FINAL SPINNING MACHINES FOR COTTON WASTE . 193

t ive feature of the machine,and g ives the name to the machine

,

and i t must be very particu larly noted that the yarn is not twisted

by the Spindle,but by a modera tely qu ick rotation being given to

each can . The Sha llow cans of condenser cotton really form the

creel of the machine,and they are placed low down and in front

of the machine much the same as are the Cops or bobbins of a

winding frame . The loose cotton spool fits nicely inside the can

and the cotton is withdrawn from the cen tre rof the spool— and

not the outside— and,as before st ated

,passes through a smal l

aperture in the centre of the l id of the can . The manner in

which the cotton thread is held at both ends and the relation of

the hole i n the can l id to the point at which the cotton is

leaving the spool inside make i t possible for twist to be inserted,

there being some sort of resemblance between this twisting

prin ciple and that by which a draw- frame coi ler is sa id to put a

l i ttle twist i n the s l iver,al though the can of the can frame re

volves very much faster than the can of a coi ler,and therefore

much more twist is i nserted . Compared with a spindle,how

ever,the speed of the can is exceedingly low . For all that

,this

mach ine is not wel l fitted for making the finer counts of cotton

waste yarn— say,anything above 5

s or so— not alone or so much

because its twisting capacity is limited,but also because there.

is no draught in the machine either by rol ler drawing or carriage

draught . The ordinary cotton waste condenser mule is,of course

,

l imited in draught to about two,but to be readily able to draw

a condenser end from 4’

s into 7’

s or 8’

s or so is far different from

being forced to leave the end at 4’

s counts just as fed to the

machine . This is one of the essential differences in effect pro

duced by the can frame and other waste Spinning machines .

Strictly speaking,i t is not a Spinning frame at all

,but only a

twisting machine,since

,technical l y speaking

,the term “

spinningimpl ies both twisting and attenuation of the cotton . The machine

appears to find a Special vogue in producing up to about 4 ’

s counts

of yarn from end - drawn condenser Spools,such yarns being low

twisted and particularly suited for very coarse wefts . E ach strand

of cotton emerges from the centre of the can,xpasses upwards

and over suitable guides,and thence through the sl i t in the cone

shaped cup and upon’

the Spindle in cup form. The machine is

probably the simplest one ever devised for spinn ing or twisting

yarns of textile fibres,and i t therefore requires very little skil l i n

13

194 COTTON WASTE .

handl ing— either from a worker’

s or foreman’

s point of view

while comparatively l ittle power is required to drive it propor

tionately to the weight of yarn produced . The 9 in . diameter

of can is made to correspond with the diameter of full condenser

bobbin produced on the finisher carding engine,and its use com

pels a wide Spindle gauge , this being about in . The machine,

however,is duplicate or double - sided like a winding frame

,which

i t real ly more resembles than it does a spinning machine .

The Spindle and Cop .

A word now i n regard to the spindle . To a mule or ring

frame man who has never considered the cone - cup method of

placing yarn in Cop form ,an examinat ion of the resultant Spool

or cop will be surpris ing . Such Cops are well bui lt,and may be

produced either on full length spools or without such foundation .

Take the pirn winding frame for example . There is no attempt

to twist the yarn in this machine,its usual vogue being to take

banks of yarn that have been bleached or dyed,and re-

.v ind

them into COp form ready for the loom shuttle . It is common

to use a thin spool which has a base the shape of the top cone of

a mule COp . The bobbin is placed on a very long and special ly

s haped Spindle,which is driven round in the usual manner . The

c one of the bobbin is placed vertical ly in cone cup with the apex

of the bobbi n pointing downwards so that the Cop is bui l t down

the Spindle and bobbin instead of upwards , as on a mule or ring

frame . The rotat ion of the spool a l luded to draws the yarn

from the hank round suitable guides and through a Sl it in the

c up and upon the bobbin itself . Because the base or in itia l

portion of the spool is of cone shape , the l ift of the frame guides

and shapes the yarn in a cone form upon the spool . The next

feature requires a moment'

s consideration on the part of one who

has not previously studied this copping problem . As the cop at

tai ns a certain diameter of cone from base to apex , i t becomes too

large to fit i n the meta l con ica l cup,and naturally is forced upwards

so as to cont inual ly wind the yarn lower down the bobbin,the

manner of holding and driving the spindle readily permitting this .

A natura l and simple Copping motion is thus provided for each

Spindle i tself . Now this pirn winding and Cop shaping principle

is the one essential ly adopted on the can spinning frame , with

perhaps the one important di fference that,at any rate for the ortho

196 COTTON WASTE .

each thread so that the whole of’

the frame need not be stopped

at one time . The machine is a double - s ided one l ike a windingframe

,and covers a considerable width over all

, the length being

anything up to about 80 cans,as required . Final ly , i t may be

stated that if the yarn is required to be bleached and dyed before

going to the next process , the can frame may be easi ly adopted

to wind the yarn in hank form instead of in Cop form .

The can or cup frame is not very largely used in E ngland ,

but its Special province is i n the case of very coarse yarns of per

haps 1’

s or so from some of the poorest materia l used up i n

cotton -waste spinn ing .

FIG .—Cup

-Sp inning Machine (Tatham

Such stuff wi ll not stand any draught at all and this machine

only twists without draughting . Much of this coarse cheap stuff,however

,is used in the backing and fil l ing of some exceedingly

good carpets and wil l take almost any colour in dyeing very readi ly .

The centre end of each smal l can of s liver is drawn through

a smal l hole i n the top of the can . A girl may mind the machine,

and each spindle may be fitted with a knock -off motion . This

is the kind of machine that is sometimes humorously said to spin

double noughts

Cup-Sp inning Machine.

The above machine is used for spinning a soft twisted

weft yarn for low counts up to No . 3’

s,and the yarn is wel l

FINAL S PINNING MACHINES FOR COTTON WASTE . 197

adapted for cotton blankets,cleaning cloths

,etc . (See fig .

Specification — Spindles mg in . gauge,one l ine to both front

and back of the machine,with self -acting knocking- Off motion to

ach Spindle when a thread breaks or when the Cop is ful l .

Special Fea tures— This machine takes the place of the mule

and fol lows after the finishing carding engine . The full bobbins

from the “ condenser are placed end up and: the wooden b arrel

is pulled out,leaving the roving in the form of cheeses i n .

diameter by 3 i n . deep . These are then ready for the above

machine and are placed in revolving Spin - tops which make about

1300 revolutions per minute . The roving is drawn out from the

inside,is passed through a smal l hole in the l id of the spin -top ,

and is twisted on its way to the square spindle in side the conica l

cup,which

,by means of a thread guide moving up and down

,

builds the cop ,which is well crossed and solidly built about 13 in .

diameter,or other Si ze to suit shuttle .

The machine is made with as many as eighty- four spindles,

forty- two on each s ide ; it is s imple in construction,and easy to

work . The twist is altered by means of one change wheel . The

labour cost is low ,one girl wil l mind fourteen to twenty Spindles

according to the counts , and the output is large per Spindle .

Approximate Production .

Counts Spun No. 1’

s . No. It’

s . No . 2’

s .

Output per Spindle per hour 1 lb .

4} lb. 5 lb .

Dimensions, Speeds , Weights, etc . ,of a Machine of E ighty-four Sp indles .

Space Occupied . Driving Pul leys .

Length . Width . Diam. Width .

perEilhute.

Perminute. Gross.

38 ft. 6 ft . 14 in . 3 in . about about about 3 100 cwts . 80 cwts .

11 in . 3 in. 475 revs . 1300 revs. I .H.P.

The Chapon Sp inning Frame.

Previously we have described the can Spinning frame, and we

now propose to describe the Chapon Spinning frame (see figs . 45

198 COTTON WASTE .

and The can frame and the Chapon mach ine have a good

many points of resemblance in genera l construction and appear

ance,so much so that at a first glance a tyro might be incl ined to

think they were identical machines . There are,however

,some

very ximportant differences i n principles of construction and

Operation,as we Shal l make clear i n the present art icl e . Both

these machines have a specia l vogue and capacity for the pro

duction of low counts of yarn,say, anything from { S counts

up to about 3’

s or 4’

s from condenser bobbins . In both cases

the cops are built up on the cone Cop principle , as described

previously,and in each case the cops are Special ly designed for

use as weft in the weaving of such goods as cotton blankets,or

i n poorer stuff,as cleaning cloths

,etc . In cotton blankets and

s imilar woven goods this weft gives a very full appearance,

superior in some respects to that obta ined from yarn Spun upon

the self-acting mule . In each case the Cop is formed in an iron

cup,upon a long steel internal spindle

,much similar to the

pirn winding frame principle . The full length of Cop is attained

by the diameter of the cop itsel f continual ly forcing both cop

and Spindle upwards,and building the cop downwards . The

completed Cop is drawn off the steel spindle,which is l ifted out

for the purpose , and then replaced for the next Cop . For the“can frame and the “ Chapon machine cops a l ike

,box

shuttles are used in the looms without shuttle tongues,the

cop being held in its place by the external pressure of a l ight

longitudinal band or rod,while the yarn is withdrawn from the

i nside and base of the Cop ,i nstead of from the apex of the top

cone and outside surface , as is the invariable case with mule

and ring frame yarn,and also in the case of Cops or bobbins

formed on the pirn winder . Al though it is real ly a very s imple

machine,the Chapon is somewhat more complicated than the

can frame, Simply because it is a more ambitious machine and

has a somewhat greater Scope . It has the advantage of using

the full - length condenser bobbins i n the creel in just the same

way as on the waste - Spinning condenser mule . The cone cup

and long loose spindle are not only util i zed for winding and

shaping the yarn in cop form ,but are also used for putting the

twist i n the yarn after much the same way as may be done in

the well -known cotton - Spinning machines . I t is furthermore

possible to construct a Chapon Spinning frame so that the

200 COTTON WASTE .

FRO NT V iew

45 .— Chapon Spinning frame.

As used to Spin very coarse yarns .

BACK V IEW.

46 .

— Chapon spinning frame. As used to spin very coarse yarns .

of the bobbin with the surface drums ,and it passes between a

pair of positively dri ven conducting rol lers , thence downwards to

FINAL SPINNING MACHINES FOR COTTON WASTE . 201

the eye or curl of a suitable rotating guide , through the sl i t in

the conica l cup ,and upon the steel spindle passing down the

c entre of the cup . The guides or wire curls are given a sufficient

traverse along the length of the cone of yarn while the he ight of

the cone - cup remains constant , and’

the height of the spi ndle isbeing automati cal ly increased by the thickness of the yarn in

order to keep the cone part a lways equal i n diameter and correct

i n height relat i vely to the cup and the travers e . To prevent the

yarn from flying outwards too much,and to avoid twining of the

threads,Very deep smooth bl inker separators are used between

the spindles . Coming now to the rotat ion of the spindle itself

and of the guide curls,i t may be said that this is a much more

important business than on the can machine,in which twisting

is done at the creel can i tself,and the Spindle and cop wind and

shape on the Simplest plan imaginable j ust as on the pirn wind

i ng frame,each spindle or Cop drawing its yarn from its own can

at the variable speed required to suit the shape of the cone . On

the Chapon machine there is a differential motion by which the

bobbin or spindle and the guide curl ring are given different

Speeds i n order to permit winding and twisting to take place

s imultaneously,somewhat after the winding and twisting of the

rovings on a bobbin and fly- frame

,but with distinct differences

i n principles and constructions,since on the Chapon frame the

c otton is formed into a COp- shape and the Spindle and bobbin

form practica l ly one piece . If the bobbin and the guide curl

revolved at the same rate there would be twisting without wind

ing,but each is definitely driven at a well -proportioned speed

,

so as to give a suffi cient twisting and an amount of winding

on proportioned and equa l i zed to the rate of del ivery of cotton,

first by the ti n surface druIns at the back,and then by the con

ducting rollers . (See figs . 45 and From a cotton Spinner’

s

point of V iew a particularly novel kind of differential motion is

provided in order to accommodate the pos it ive speed of COp totheuniform feed of cotton from back bobbin and to the varying dia

meter of the Cop cone from apex to base . On the ordinary pirn

winding frame the yarn is Simply fed or drawn forward more

rapidly when winding on the base of the cone of Cop than when

winding on the apex,and the whole thing is s implicity itself . It

is an ent irely different thing on the Chapon machine,i n which the

yarn is given off the long back condenser bobbins at a uniform

202 COTTON WASTE .

speed . Assuming that winding has been made correct for winding

on the apex of the cone of the cop when the lifter curls are in

their lowest position ,then

,as the yarn is guided upwards towards

the base by the rais ing of the l ifter,the winding speed in

creases proportionately to the greater diameter of the base . To

compensate for the quicker wi nding -on rate the guide rollers are

given a well -proportioned downwards movement,towards the

spindles,and this movement combined with the rais ing of the

lifter curl wires gives the increase in length of yarn required by

the greater diameter of cop . In other words,a differential wind

ing- ou motion is provided by causing the l ifter and guide rollers

to move towards each other,and g ive slack yarn as the winding

point moves towards the base of the cone,while these two parts

recede from each other and tend to take up the yarn when the

winding-ou point moves towards the apex of the cone of 00p .

This differential winding-ou problem is a distinctly interesting

and va luable one,and the comparatively rapid crossing of the

yarn along the cone not only facil itates the subsequent drawing

off of the yarn,but also helps to distribute the twist in the yarn

sufficiently . The spindle speeds may be proportioned to the

counts of yarn requ ired, but are always comparatively low

,reach

ing 700 or 800 revolutions per minute for counts 1%’

s or 2’

s,

with the larger dimen sions of Cop as above g iven , and up to

about 1300 or 1400 revolutions per minute for 3’

s to 4’

s . It wil l

be noticed that both counts and spindle Speeds for this Chapon

spinning machine are very much on a par with those obtain ing

on a range of bobbin and fly frames for ordinary cotton spinning ,

i ncluding slubber,intermediate

,and roving frames . There is

,

however,a much higher range of twist per inch put i nto the yarn

from the Chapon frame . The production of this machine per

spindle varies a great deal,according to class of waste used

,abil ity of

the operatives,twist per inch required

,etc . This machine has been

a good deal used on the Continent,and is understood to give a good

production of soft weft for sixty hours it is somewhat as fol lows

0 59 E ng l ish counts 34 lb . per spindle .

28

22

18

14

12

9

204 COTTON WASTE .

engines . The bottom rollers may be fluted if required . The

second style of rollers is very much on the l ines of the ordinary

three pairs of rollers i n common use on a ring Spinning frame

or an ordinary mul e for spinning proper cotton yarns . The three

l ines of bottom rollers are of very smal l diameter— possibly in .

by t in . by if in .,or even less in diameter for front and back— so

as to suit the very short fibre to be found usual ly in cotton

waste . The front and middle top rol lers are also of smal l

diameter,covered in the usual way with smooth closely woven

c loth next to the iron,and roller leather tightly drawn over the

c l oth . These two rol l ers may be joined together bya l ittl e saddle

and one l ink and l ever weighting arrangement used for both of

them . The back top roller in this case is usual ly plai n and

polished,and of about 1g in . diameter

,i n order to make it suffi~

c iently heavy by self -weighting . It will be readily understood

that using draught rollers i n this way i n a mule intended for spin

ning cotton -waste yarns,puts the process very much in the same

c ategory as ordinary cotton spinning,since rollers always tend to

make fibres paral lel,and draw out the cotton finer than is pos

s ible with either the “ ratch ”or gain principle of drawing .

The rollers in this case are made adjustable,provision often

being made for the distance between all three l ines being a l tered,

it being possible to separately al ter the distance between back and

m iddle on the one hand,or front and middle on the other hand . In

some cases Where waste mules are constructed with draught rollers

in this way, i t is the practice to a lso supply it with bobbins buil t on a

bobbin and fly frame,this latter machine being suppl ied with cotton

out of cans of sl iver prepared at the del ivery of the finisher card

ing engine , which in this case has the doffer web spl i t up into aboutfour parts , each of which goes into a can . This style of wastespinning is a compromise between orthodox cotton Spinning and

true waste Spinning upon the condenser principle in which nodrawing rol lers are used for the cotton to go through on any

machine , and no real attempt is made to put the fibres into

paral lel order in any of the processes . As a matter of fact,present

day practice apparently tends to run more and more in the wayof discarding the preparation system of cotton -waste spinning , andfor the condenser system to more and more increase in use. In

the case of a waste- Spinning mule in which three l ines of rollersa re used as above described

,i t is qui te easy to discard the roller

FINAL SPINN ING MACHINES FOR COTTON WASTE . 205

drawing principle at any t ime temporarily if requ ired ,i n which

case the front and middle top rollers and their weighting arrange

ment are taken away,and the 152 i n . diameter sol id back top rollers

are brought forward to rest upon the front and middle bottom

rollers on the self-weighting principle . In the third style an

arrangement very common to wool len mule Spinning is adopted , and

only one l i ne of bottom rollers and one l ine of top rol lers are used ,

the top l ine being about 2% in . diameter,and self-weighted . As

before Stated , the most favoured style of rol lers for a cotton -waste

References

Condenser bobbin in useGrooved frict ion drumCondenser bobbin awaiting use.

Top rol ler.Bottom rol lers.

Weight .é

mc

o

we

mule consists i n using two l ines of bottom rollers with one l ine oftop rol lers resting on these , and this top roller may be of large

diameter , self-weighted , or i t may be of only about 1} i n . or 1g i n .

diameter , dead weighted ,and covered with cloth and leather in the

usual cotton - spinning manner . (See fig . 46A. )

The Headstocks.

AS regards the headstocks , although the woollen mule typeof headstock has hitherto been most used

,the cotton headstock

has often been used for the spinning of cotton waste,being

a ltered in order to spin from long condenser bobbins i f required,

206 COTTON WASTE .

and being equipped with a ratching motion for disengaging the

rol lers shortly before the carriage has fin ished its outward run .

E lsewhere in this book we ful ly expla i n how quite recently

most determined and most successful attempts have been made

to fully adapt the cotton headstock so as to give most excellent

results i n the ordinary way of Spinning cotton -waste yarns of

good and so- cal l ed fine qualit ies . It is a somewhat noticeable

fact that self- acting mules for the Spinning of cot ton -waste have

very often indeed had the headstocks built upon the side rim

principle,in which the rim Shafts are paral lel to creels and rollers ,

al though the back r ims are made if required for cotton -waste

spinn ing,and the rim Shafts are at right angles to the rollers and

creels . It is possible that the side rim arrangement suits the

woollen type of headstock somewhat better than it does an ordi

nary cotton Spinning headstock,but in such cotton spinning it

is seldom the s ide rim is adonted unless it is a v ery low room in

which a countershaf t running down the centre of the two muleswill give a much longer down bel t than would be obta ined with

the ordi nary top countershaft of the back rim . In some cases,

of course,the headstock is constructed on the Side rim principle

i n order to suit the arrangement of driving Shaft already obtain ing

in the room wherein the mules are to be placed . Side rims can

and do give good results , but the writer on the whole prefers the

back rim pulley arrangement .

Spindles and Productions .

Because of the very thick character of the yarn it is necessary

to make big cops as a rule in order to restrict the number of dof

fing times at the mule,and to make the COpS last l onger at the next

process . For this reason the Spindle gauge or distance from centreof one Spindle to centre of the next one is usual ly a wide one

,say,

anything from 1712 in . or 15} in . up to 25 in .,or so as compared with

1 {a in . or 1% in . as a standard forpin - Cop weft , and 1} in . to 133 in . as

a standard for twist Cops i n the ordinary processes of cotton spinning . I t fol lows partly from the wide spindle gauge that the

number of Spindles per mule must be much less than for a cottonspinning mule

,but another reason for a reduction in the number

of spindles is found in the great amount of creel ing and doffing

required , which reduces the capacit ies of the Operatives as regardsnumber of spindles . In a general way a waste mul e conta in ing

COTTON \VASTE .

other suitable means is very soon attained . Hence we have the

long- establ ished practice of using the woollen mule type of headstock

i n mules for Spinning waste cotton yarns on the condenser system .

In l ike manner there is a great resemblance i n the finisher carding

engines as used for these two materials,not a lone in the fact that i n

each case the card is of the roller and clearer type , but also in the

manner of dividing or cutting up the width of the fleece of fibres

from the doffer into a sufficient number of i ndividual ends,reach

ing usual ly from ten to thirty-one or so for cotton waste,and

sometimes up to four t imes this number upon woollen condenser

cards . One of the developments of recent years i n connexion

with the Spinning of cotton -waste yarns has been the modification

and application of the cotton - spinning type of headstock for the

purposes of cotton -waste Spinning upon the condenser principle .

We now propose to describe a mul e that has been brought

up to date for this special purpose . In this case one par

ticular and essentia l feature is the adoption of the carriage “ ga i n

or“ drag ” principle for draughting the cotton out

,to the utter ex

clusion of the “ ratching” or second stretch principle

,the wel l

known slubbing motion for the early Open ing of the rol ler -box

not usual ly being needed or at all used in this mul e . This mule being Operated on the condenser principle

,there is , of course

,no

rol ler draught at all,exactly as On the woollen mule principle . Take

an example of Spinning counts 7’

s to 8’

s from 45 hank condenserstrands . Each long condenser creel bobbin may conta in about

thirty ends— one each for a front twist ing Spindle— the total length

of the bobbin being about 48 in .

,and ful l d iameter 8 i n . or 9 in .

This long bobbin is placed hori zonta l ly upon a fluted t in roller ordrum of poss ibly 10 in . diameter or so, and is bent backwardswith its ends aga inst the vertica l creel stands . The tin drum

method of driving ensures a sufficiently positive rotat ion of the

condenser bobbin,and a uni form surface speed

,whatever may

be the diameter of the bobbin . The strands of cotton from these

long bobbins are conducted through vert ical guide wires behind

the rollers much after the ordinary cotton spinning mule style fors ingle rovings . Next

,the cotton passes through the rollers

,which

cons ist of two bottom fluted rol lers upon which is placed a l eather

covered rol ler weighted on the dead -weight principle to ensure asufficient grip of the cotton ends . These three lines of rollers may

be approximately about 15 in . diameter,there being probably a

FINAL SPINNING MACHINES FOR COTTON WASTE . 209

slight difference in diameter between top and bottom rollers to

prevent fluting of the leather - covered top rol lers . Final ly, each

cotton end passes from the rol lers to its Spindle , which usual ly

has only a moderate amount of topping,

or distance from top of

Spindle to top of fluted front roller,and only a moderate amount

of Spindle bevel also . A large amount of either “ topping”

or

Spindle “ bevel ” would probably make it awkward to put in the

required amount of “ ga in or carriage draught ; without running

some risk of the yarn drawing off the Spindles when the cops were

nearing their ful l l ength . (See fig .

Let us now deal briefly with the driving of the three primaryand fundamental movements of this mul e during draughting , twist

FIG . 47 .— Cotton-waste Mule with Cotton Headstock .

ing,and ordinary outward carriage movement . I t wil l simplify

matters and greatly help a cotton mule man to understand the

mechanism and operation of this headstock if we state at once

that the rollers and carriage are driven at a uniform speed during.

outward carriage travel,while the Spindles have three different

Speeds during any one run out,each Speed being definitely ob

tained from proper mechanism,and each controlled as required .

We Shall explain that the first motor or s ide - shaft for driving the

rollers and carriage is driven in a different manner from what

obtains in the ordinary cotton mule headstock,but from this Side

Shaft the driving of rol lers and carriage is much the same as

every cotton mule worker is acquai nted with . There are,of

course,no draught wheels for driving the back and middle rollers

,

14

210 COTTON WASTE .

as these rollers are not used,and there is a definite connexion

between the driving of the rollers and carriage, so that the relat ive

speeds of carriage and rollers may be adjusted to whatever

amount of draught may be required . If,for example

,i t is required

to put i n a l i ttle less draught,this may easi ly be done by altering

(a ) a wheel which will drive the rollers more quickly without

a ltering the speed of the carriage ; or (b) by a ltering a wheel

which wil l reduce the Speed of the carriage without altering

the Speed of the rol lers . If,

again,i t was considered

that the l imit of carriage and roller speed had been attained

c onsistent with the qual i ty Of the material and the piecing-up

c apacity of the workers,the above case would probably be

met by al tering that change wheel,which would reduce the

Speed of the carriage and l eave that of the rol lers unaltered . I t

is to be particularly noted that the outward speed of the carriage“i n this particular waste - Spinning mule is kept at a uniform rate

,

whereas i t is more usual i n the wool len mule type of headstock

to draw the carriage out at variable Speeds by scrolls of much the

s ame shape as those usua l ly employed to draw in the carriage of

a n ordinary spinning mule . In the woollen mule type of head

s tock there is not as a rule any long back - shaft— a lthough it is

poss ible to have one— but i n this new cotton headstock the usual

long back - Shaft containing the usual description Of practically

uniform drawing scrol l is used and the stretch of 64 i n . is

adopted,this bei ng the well - known standard for ordinary counts

of cotton yarn from all garden numbers from 20’

s to 60’

s or so .

(Seefig .

D riving for Variable Sp indle Speeds .

We have endeavoured to word the descriptions so that anyone

familiar with ordinary cotton mule headstocks would be readily

able to understand the special features of this cotton headstock

for spinning waste - cotton yarns upon the condenser principle .

Without doubt by far the greatest difference in principle of con

s truction,as between the headstock of this mule and that of an

ordinary cotton spinning mule , consists in the arrangements for

driving the spindles at three different speeds during each run - out

of the carriage , while keeping the rollers and carriage at a uni form

speed . Such variable speeds are necessary for the best results i n

spinning yarns on the condenser system without using draugh

212 COTTON WASTE .

and has secured to it a second rope rim -pulley of larger diameter

placed just ins ide of the smal l rim -pulley at the back of the head

stock . Such is the method oi construct ion,and the exact action

of these parts will be readily comprehended by anyone who now un

derstands the construct ion . AS the carriage starts out the ordinary

down -belt for the rim -pulley is on the central loose pulley,and

the auxiliary belt is not only driving the carriage and rollers,but

also,by the catch and catch -wheel or free -will a rrangement

,is

driving the rim - shaft , and therefore by the smal ler rim -pul ley is

driving the spindles at a very slow speed . After the carriage has

travelled perhaps 20 i n . or 2 ft . the down belt is moved upon

the front bel t pulley,and at once takes command of the rim

Shaft,and the ratchet -wheel or free -wheel on rim - shaft runs away

from the driving catch of the auxi liary drive,which now oa

drives rol lers and carriage . Arrived at perhaps 18 in . or so,more

or l ess,from end of carriage traverse

,the down bel t is moved

upon the back pulley,and the larger rim -pul ley drives the spindles

unt i l twisting has finished .

Three Speeds of Spindle.

1

Referring aga in to the three - Spindle speed mul e for the purpose

of Spinn ing cotton waste on the condenser principle ,. it will be

understood that any required proportion of speed may be Obtained

as between the first,second

,and third Speeds respectively

,but

the principle must always be observed of having an init ial low

Spindle Speed in order to permit the carriage draughting of the cotton

without thread breakage . This is so true that i f a broken thread

be pieced up on the mul e j ust described before the carriage has

travelled several inches away from the beam it is very likely to break

down aga in,owing to the Spindle hal f of the pieced thread having

more twist than the roller beam half,and a lso owing to the weaker

and thicker nature of the piecing port ion . The carriage itself is

made the medium for determining when the changes shal l take place

from lowest to medium spindle Speed,and from medium to highest

Speed . This will be readily understood by those conversant with

the Single and double speed motions of fine Spinning mules .

There are,however

,essential differences i n principle ; if we started

double Speed earlier we Should Speed up the rollers and carriage

also unti l the back - shaft and roller-boxes opened . The waste

1 See sketch and descript ion of 3 - speed motion in append ix .

FINAL SPINNING MACHINES FOR COTTON WASTE . 213

spinning mule is more l ike a Threlfal l mule,in which the double

Speed is obtained entirely from bringing a larger diameter of rim

pulley into use,so as to speed the spindles al one . There are

some important deta i ls of practice which are affected by this par

ticular feature , as , for example , supposing that the new waste

mule with cotton headstock were al tered— as i t could be in about

a minute or so— so as to change from medium to maximum Spindle

speed somewhat sooner in relation to the termination of the out

ward carriage travel,the effect would be to obta in more twist in

the yarn before the carriage got out,so that less would be neces

sary after the carriage got ful ly out and during twisting at the head,

and the mule would make a complete draw in a proportionately

FIG . 48 .—Cotton-waste Mule with Woollen Type of Headstock.

Shorter time .It must be understood that the tin roller twisting

motion is appl ied to this mul e so that sl ippage of the rim - band does

not affect the total twist per inch put in the yarn ,and also that

a fter the ful l twist has been put i n the yarn backing-off occurs ,

whatever proportion of twist may be left for insertion during sup

plementary twisting after the carriage has come to a standsti l l .

Also our readers must permit us to aga in remind them that the

rim - shaft has nothing to do with driving the rollers and carriage , but

only drives the Spindles . The 3 -speed motion just describ ed is

made by Messrs . Asa Lees Co .

Stop-Motions.

For the purpose of changing the creel bobbins and perform

ing various l i ttl e duties , i t is more often necessary to stop a waste

214 COTTON WASTE .

Spinning mule than an ordinary cotton - spinning one,and i t is

quite common on a waste mule to employ a specia l application

of stop-motion seldom found on a cotton spinning mule . During

the last fifteen years or so it has become the usual thing in

ordinary cotton spinning to apply a turnover latch or handle

which the Operative may turn over to be out of action any time

when the carriage is coming out or going in,and may then ex

peet the mule to stop at the rol ler-beam,because the down -belt.

has not been unlatched and al lowed to move on the loose pulley .

In the waste mule this idea is often carried out to the further

extent of extending a wire rod underneath the fal l er Shafts for a .

good portion or all of the ' length of the mu le . By simply pulling at.

this rod the latch may be turned over from any posi t ion in the length

of the mule,and this may often prove to be a dist inct convenience .

AS a matter of fact,we quite fai l to see why it Should not be

regularly appl ied to ordi nary cotton - Spinning mules,because it is

simple and cheap enough,and can be placed out of the way be

neath the faller shafts . In some waste - spinning mules the idea

is carried out further s til l by us ing the long wire rod as j ust de

scribed,and arranging so that Sl iding it Shal l place the bel t at

once on the loose pulley at any point in the outward travel of

the carriage . To do this i t is common to latch the down -belt.

i n posit ion,and to arrange for a spiral spring to be always

pull ing at the strap rod as the carriage moves out . By movingthe long rod

,connexions are also moved so that the down -bel t fork

is promptly unlatched,and the bel t is drawn upon the loose

pulley by the Spiral spring . This is a specia l applicat ion of the

stop-motion principle which we scarcely think would suit most .

ordinary cotton Spinning mules,because the need for its use

would seldom arise,and i t would make the stop -motion parts a

l i ttle mixed up to also util ize the turnover latch principle,the

strap- rel ieving motion,and the hastening motion . Before leaving

the question of stop - rods we may first say a word about one of

the latest l it tle devices for locking the long stop - rod,or big

starti ng and stopping handle of any sel f- acting mul e,whether for

waste or ordinary yarns . A wire loop or cross -bar of about 6’

s

wire is hinged to the top of the standard,through which the

stop - rod passes at the front ; a suitable s lot is cut across the topof the stop - rod in such a posi t ion that when the stop -rod is pushed

home and the mule is stopped the wire cross-bar at once drops

216 COTTON WASTE .

the mule,and first drives the backing-off

,and afterwards draws

the carriage i n as on ordinary Spinning mul es . It appears to be

the general opinion of cotton -was te spinners who have Operated

mules both on the woollen mule principle of ratching the yarn

by the aid of Slubbing motions,and the use of variable drawing

out scrolls , and have also had experi ence of waste - spinning mules

which draught the cotton ends by the aid of gain,

and not ratch ,

that the gai n ” method is distinctly the better when condenser

strands of finer than three hank or so are used . Take for example

a waste mule Spinning 7’

s counts of yarn from 4’

s condenser

bobbins,i t is claimed that more production and better yarn can

be obtained from a cotton headstock with a continuous draughting

of the cotton by carriage gai n . Also the use of paral l el scrolls for

g iving a uniformoutward speed to the carriage appears to be

favoured by many in such cases . The makers themselves make

their claim i n the following words : “ This method of Spinning

produces a finer and much more even yarn,as the draught is put in

conti nuously and gradual ly,and not all at the end of the draw ,

as

in the older system ; i t enables coarser roving to be used than

formerly when Spinning the same counts,as i t is possible to obtain

a draught equal to hal f the draw and i t gives a larger production

as the twist can be put i n sooner than by the older system . The

mule also,having a back - shaft

,works more steadily

,and therefore

runs faster It will be quite understood that automatic governing

motions,or strapping

”motions

,automatic nosing motions

,and

backing-off chain t ightening motions can be and often are applied

to a cotton -waste mule j ust as on an ordinary cotton mule . It

is found also that the instantaneous cl ick - locking motion is an

advantage,as it prevents “ clicking

,

” or having both backing- off

and winding-on cl icks engaged at the same moment . In the

cotton headstock described this “ click motion is on the cone

principle , and is worked from the rocking- shaft in the carriage

middle piece,and the click is engaged before the carriage begins to

move by the same set of mechanism that does the locking of the

fal l ers . We bel ieve most people will concede that cone- cl ick

gearing and ungearing motions have done very excellent service

when put on and adjusted to proper advantage,and often render

effici ent service in l imiti ng the number of snarls put i n the yarn ,

and i n gett i ng good sol id cops . In the case under notice the

winding cl ick is made of steel,case - hardened

,with teeth cut out

FINAL SPINNING MACHINES FOR COTTON WASTE . 217

of the sol id . Another make of three - speed motion is shown in

fig . 49 .

Round of Movements in Cotton Waste Mule.

In a modern waste - Spinning condenser mule Operated entirely

upon the “ cotton ”system the round of movements which make

up a complete draw are much the same as for an ordinary cotton

Spinning mule,excepting for differences i n Spindle speed and i n

the waste mule having no rol ler draught . Beginning at the roller

b eam ,we have a continuous and uniform del ivery of cotton from

the rollers,accompanied by a uni form Speed of the carriage . In

an ordinary cotton mule the speed‘

of the third important factor,

LE FOR SPEEDS

FIG . 49 .

—The 3 - speed Motion 1(Hetherington Son ) .

v iz .,the spindles

,is also uniform

,but in the waste mule the

Spindles invariably have either two or three speeds . The carriage

having reached the end of the stretch the back - Shaft and roller

boxes are Opened ,the ts ting motion regulates the amount of

twist put to the yarn at this period,and then the down -belt

is moved upon the loose pul ley . We then have backing-off, fal ler

locking,variable return of the carriage , unlocking of fal lers , and re

c ommencement of Spinn ing in the orthodox manner . Let us com

pare this with the “ cycle of movements on the usual spinning

mul e for cotton waste on the woollen system . We again have

1 A brief lettered descript ion of this parti cular motion wi l l be found in thea ppendix .

218 COTTON WASTE .

the del ivery of condensed cotton strands from the rollers,but this

may be accompanied by a variable speed of carriage . The spindles

have a very low speed for the greater portion of the run -out.

When the carriage has moved a sufficient distance outwards,say,

possibly about 40 or more inches out of about a 70 inch stretch ,

the del ivery of cotton from the rol lers is stopped while the car

riage continues its forward movement . This is natural ly accom

panied by the requ is i te amount of spindle draught ,”

or carriage

draught ” as it may be termed . These conditions may obtai n unt il

the carriage gets almost or nearly out,when the double spindle

speed may be brought into action,so as to save time by intro

ducing twist in the yarn as quickly as poss ible now that the

conclusion of“spindle draughting wil l permit of the insertion of

the twist . We have,of course

,the arrestation of outward

carriage movement,and disengagement of drawing- out motion at.

the proper moment . During the supplementary twisting period

may put into Operat ion the “ draw -back or “ receding

movement of the carriage by which the carr iage is slowly moved

a short distance towards the rol ler-beam ,in order to prevent the

shorten ing and harden ing effect of the twist from pull ing the

threads down . This is a part icular feature of a mule operated

upon the woollen headstock and “slubbing motion principle .

Supplementary twisting ,double speed of spindles

,and receding

action of carriage may take place concurrently . After the con

clusion of twist ing , we have backing-Off,fal ler locking

,winding-ou ,

shaping of cops,and return of carriage exactly as before described .

I t wil l be understood that the condenser system of carding and

Spinning,whether the mul e draught be Obta ined upon the drag

or upon the ratching principle,always produces a very full

,

soft - feel ing yarn,with the requisi te strength obtained from the

rubbers of the card ,the cross ing of the fibres and spinning

coarse numbers .

The Slubbing Motion.

I t will be of i nterest and profit to many of our readers i f wegive a brief descript ion of the mechanism by which the rol lers are

controlled,so as to deliver cotton for only a portion of the out

ward movement,i n a cotton -waste mule Operated upon the

woollen headstock principle,and fed with condenser bobbins .

Take an arrangement as made by one firm . The roller -box has

220 COTTON WASTE .

long rod is placed an adjustable finger , which is acted upon whenrequired by a bracket fastened in the carriage “

square In this

way a sufficient movement is given to the long rod,and is trans

mitted by the vertical l ink - rod to the latch- l ever which holds the

roller-box shut . The li fting of this lever releases the hal f of the

roller-box ,and this box is at once forced open by the proper spring .

It will be readily comprehended that the change brackets may be

adjusted so that the rod may be moved and box opened when the

carriage has made say 35 ih .,40 ih .

,44 in .

,or any other pro

portion of the ful l outward stretch that may be desired . This is

not the most common form of slubbing motion by any means , but it

will be readily understood by most of our readers,and especial ly

by those who are familiar with the recent trend of fashion in

regard to the opening and closing of the rol ler - boxes i n some

mules put up for ordinary cotton - spinning purposes . I t is well

known,for example

,that some ordinary cotton - spinning mules

for many years had the rol ler-box Opened and closed by the

sliding action of a long rod as imparted by the carriage . More

recently,however

,it has become the favourite practice to Open

the rol ler -box exactly upon the principle explained as above

for the sl iding- rod slubbing motion of the waste- spinning mule .

Instead of having the Sliding- rod to actual ly compel the box

to Open,the rod now releases a kind of l ever arrangement

,

a'

hd the Spring does the real work of Opening the box . This

development has taken place largely because with the former

practice the rod would drag along with the carriage more

slowly sometimes than others,and there was not always the

exact and prompt opening of the box which is requis ite for

obtaining absolute uniformity in the amount of “ ratching as

required for fine counts of yarn . In the more recent system the

real Opening of the rol l er -box is left to the spring,and not to the

rod,and better action is on the whole obtained

,al though skilful

setting and maintenance of parts in good condition produced ex

c ellent resul ts with the older system . NOW there is no difference

to speak of i n principles of construction and action between the

roller -box Opening of fine mul e j ust referred to and the new longrod method of Opening the roller- box on some condenser wastespinni ng mules . It is

,i ndeed

,very apparently a fine example of

the saying that “ Extremes meet,”

since in the one case we havethe use of the ratching principle for fine cotton yarns

,and in the

FINAL SPINNING MACHINES FOR COTTON WASTE . 221

other case we find it used to an even far greater extent for producing

the very coarsest of cotton yarns , while in almost allmedium countsof yarn from American cotton— say ,

lo’

s to 40’

s,or finer ordinary

cotton spinning— the “ ratching principle is practical ly ignored .

In the fine mule the amount of ratching , however , is l imited at

from 5 i n . up to 4 in . or 5 in . per stretch,whereas in a cotton -waste

mule Operated on the woollen mule principle with a Slubbing

motion,it is possible for the amount of ratch to reach to almost half

the complete stretch,say,

up to from 30 in . to 35 in . in a 70 i n .

stretch .

Wheel Slubbing Motion .

The more usual form of slubbing motion as used on a wool len

mule headstock for spinning cotton -waste or woollen yarns is separ

ated from the carriage,and there is no l ong rod

,the release of

the latch - l ever of rol ler -box depending upon a t rai n of wheelsOperated from the front roller itself . The present writer ex

amined this form of slubbing motion as appl ied to cotton -waste

mules with the woollen type of headstock ,and as built by three

different makers . A brief description of one only will be given,

and i t must be understood that in exact detai l of construction the

others differ from this one and from each other,but not i n principle .

The rol ler-box is held in gear by a latch - l ever,exactly as in the

case of the long rod motion,while a spira l spring is always

trying to force the box Open as agai nst the pressure of the lever .

In this case there is used a Slubbing wheel contai n ing a good

deal of Slotted space on its s ide , and not far from the edge or rim .

The face of the wheel is numbered much after the’

style of the

index wheel of a comber— although we do not think the marks of

the s lubbing wheel bear any rela t ion to the teeth of the wheel asi n the case of the index wheel— and a stud is secured at any re

quired point i n the slotted Space . I t is by the posi tion of the stud

in the slot,and i n regard to the markings on the rim of the slub

bing wheel,that the release of the latch - lever and the open ing of

the rol ler - box are determined in relat ion to the amount of yarn

del ivered and the exact distance’

travelled each draw by the car

riage before the rol ler -box is opened . For example,by screwing

the stud at a certai n mark or number in the s ide of the Slubbing

wheel the roller-box might be Opened and del ivery stopped after

the carriage had travelled 50 in . out of 70 total . If i t were

222 COTTON WASTE .

requi red to have 60 i n . or only 45 in .,or any other amount of yarn

del ivered before Opening the rol ler-box,i t would be a case of only

putting the stud in the proper slot Opposite the proper number onthe slubbing wheel , and this need only be the work of a minu te .

In the case of the rod system the alterat ion would require no more

t ime,and some mark ings on or near the long rod would serve to

i ndicate exact amount of yarn del ivered for opening at any par

ti cular mark . We are i ncl ined personal ly to prefer the rod system

ma inly because the slubb ing wheel requires other gearing for

driving it round ,and special means for return ing i t to its initial

posit ion for the commencement of each outward run . Of course,

the long rod also must be pushed back to spinning posi tion but

this is a very convenient thing to do . The slubbing wheel Itsel f

d i ffers l ittle with d ifferent makers,but the manner of driving it

d iffers cons iderably . In the case under notice there is a train of

two sma l l wheels driving two large ones from front roller to s lub

bing wheel , with a carrier introduced for conven ience,and to give

proper direction of revolution to the slubbing wheel . The front

rol ler wheel itself is very smal l,and the slubbing wheel dist inctly

large,not very much unl ike the front rol ler p inion and crown wheel

of an ordinary draught train of wheels . A sufficiently slow rotat ion

o f the slubbing wheel is Obtained to prevent the stud from releasing

the latch - lever of the roller -box until the carriage has gone suffi

c iently far. In order to return the Slubbing wheel to its initial

posi t ion for Commencing a new draw a weighted chai n arrangement

is used ,and the method of gearing has to be arranged to permit

this return action . The use of this weighted chain is one of the

detai ls i n which the slubbing wheel appears to be somewhat in

ferior to the long rod system,although long practice has probably

reconciled the workers to the former method .

Self -Acting Mule (Condenser System,fig .

Such a mule’

as the one il lustrated in fig . 50 is suitable for

Spinning a ful l,soft - spun

,and level yarn from such cotton wastes

as comber waste and various kinds of hard waste or soft waste .

The bobbins from the fin isher card are placed'

on in cl ined

s tands and are unwound by contact with grooved surface drum s .

The roving is del ivered from the rol lers at a un iform speed,the

carriage speed is uniform and the cotton strands are attenuated

by the carriage speed exceeding the surface speed of the rollers .

224 COTTON WASTE .

Slubbing Motion . Additional Remarks .

One of the important motions i n a woollen mule Is the

Slubbing mot ion,which regulates the length of condenser yarn

del ivered from the roller each draw . Its obj ect is to permit anydesired length to be automat ical ly and accurately measured

,and

i t also helps to g ive faci l ity i n changing the weight or count of

yarn .

The slubb ing wheel may be arranged at right angles to and is

driven from the front roller coupling Spindle,a pinion be ing fixed

to the latter , which drives a compound carrier,and the pinion por

tion of double carrier drives the slubbing wheel .

The Sl iding clutch-box is held in gear with that fixed on the

coupl ing spindle,by a l ever which is l ifted by a stud in the s lub

bing wheel when sufficient condenser yarn has been del ivered .

The sl iding clutch is then disengaged by a spring ,and at the same

t ime the pinion driving the slubbing wheel is dropped out of gear ,and the slubbing wheel brought back to the starting point by means

of a chain and weight . The clutches are engaged by a l ever

operated by a cam on the change cam - shaft . To del iver different

l engths of yarn it is only necessary to move a setting stud to a

figure indicating the required length on the face of the s lubbingwheel

,in order to accurately measure the number of inches de

livered per draw .

When once set , the arrangement of this motion is such that i t

is imposs ible for i t to overrun itself , or to vary the length of yarn

del ivered .

By this arrangement of the slubbing motion the Spinner

stil l has easy insight and access to the interior of the headstock .

Draw-back Motion.

This mule is also fitted with a draw-back or jacking-up motion

to obviate the strain on the yarn due to twist ing contraction .

When putting a great amount of twist in the threads of a some

what tender fibre they have a tendency to break off at the grip of

the delivery rollers . The jacking motion causes the carriag e to

draw back a short distance and takes the place of the jacking roller

del ivery motion as applied to fine spinning cotton mules . The

mule may be fitted ei ther with long or Short Shaper . The mule

can be adapted when required with mechanism for stopping the

FINAL SPINNING MACHINES FOR COTTON WASTE . 225

spindles , reversing the rol lers , for the Spinning of yarns of a fancy

character,and for twist ing two ends together .

The Reversing Motion is applied to mules Spinning very short

staple and with soft twist , i n which at t imes much trouble has

been caused by the threads breaking at the grip of the rollers .

To overcome this defect . the rol lers are turned slightly inward

immediately after twist ing, So as to bite on the twisted yarn during

backing off and winding on,instead of on soft material as just

del ivered untwisted from the rol lers .

Spindle Stop Motion.

This is chiefly used when there is a cons iderable admixture of

other material , such as China grass,tow

,etc .

,with pure wool which

prevents much draught being put in the yarn .

The “Draw-back Motion.

In the case of a fine spinning mule putting in a good dea l of

supplementary twist with the carriage fully out,it is often found

necessary to adopt means for preventing the ya rn- contracting

effect of the twist from breaking the threads down excessively .

The established method in this case is to cause the rollers todel iver a smal l amount of cotton at this t ime by means of what

1s variously termed the “ receding motion,the “ roller turning ”

motion,or the “ jacking delivery motion . In the case

,for

example,of one mul e

,this motion consists of a tra in of wheels.

Operated primarily from a smal l wheel on the roller side - Shaft,

which thus drives a special bottom shaft that reaches to the front .

of the roller spindle,and drives the front roller by a catch and

ratchet wheel arrangement .

In another mule the whole of this mechanism is i n front .

of the fast and loose pulleys,but is much the same in principle

as the above,al though apparently differing in detai l .

Another firm employ a sma l l sprocket cha i n arrangement,

combined with a catch and catch-wheel for the purposes of their

rol ler - turning motion .

In the original hand -mule of Crompton the difficulty was met

by a slight pushing in of the carriage,and this obtained original ly

in self-actors,but the extra roller turning system has been in

universal use i n fine spinning cotton mules for a very long term

of years,and is much better than the pushing in of the carriage

,

15

226 COTTON WASTE .

i nasmuch as it does not shorten the length of yarn spun as doesthe draw- back motion

,and i t is much less clumsy

,and does not

i n any way interfere with the arrangements for backing-off,

keeping the winding click out of gear , or preventing the premature

engagement of e ither the backing off or taking In frictions . At

the close of a l ecture by the present writer at the Bradford

Technical Col lege the quest ion was discussed why the “ rol ler

turning ” method should not displace the “ draw-back ” method

in wool len mules as it had done in fine cotton spinning . At

d ifferent t imes the writer has been asked the same question in

regard to cotton -waste mules i n which the same thing exists .

Apparently the answer may be given somewhat as follows : In

a fine Spinn ing mule the rol ler draught is sufficient to prevent

the slight portion of yarn del ivered by the receding motion from

a ffecting the counts of yarn or its regularity,whereas there is no

roller draught at all i n a proper woollen mule or i n a cotton -waste

mule on the condenser principle,whether with the wool len or

cotton mul e headstock,and the amount of receding is a lso much

greater . Such mules are made to “ jack -up or “ recede in the

carriage during supplementary twist ing to the extent of 6 in . i f

required,

and a good proportion of this 6 in . is sometimesrequired . This

,of course

,is far and away more than is ever

wanted for a fine spinning cotton mule in which a del ivery of g i n

to 1 i n . is dist inctly large,quite apart from the question of rol ler

d raught not being present in the waste Spinning mule Briefly,

i n a fine spinning mule the amount of “ receding action or yarn

slacken ing seldom ,if ever

,exceeds from 55 in . to 1 ih .

,and this

short length is subj ected to the action of roller draught— al though

wanting in Spindle draught— whereas in the cotton -waste mule

there may be,for example

,a matter of 3 or 4 in . of “

re

. ceding action or slackening of the yarn wanted,owing ma inly to

the very thick nature of the yarn caus ing the twist to Shorten the

yarn infinitely more than the same amount of twist wil l shorten

the fine yarns . In this statement we have,therefore

,an explana

t ion of why the draw -back motion is ma inta ined in woollen or

c otton -waste mules,al though it is obviously more inconvenient in

more ways than one than the roller turning system . Most recent

c otton -waste condenser mules now usual ly have no receding

motion on at all.

In the triple spindle - speed cotton mule headstock described

228 COTTON WASTE .

the carriage happened to finish its outward travel unsteadily, or

receded somewhat on the holding-out catch . Sometimes also the

chain catch is widely set,and there is a Sl ight in itial loss in

winding-ou . For these reasons many have preferred the method

in which the long rod which connects the holding-out ca tch withthe taking- in friction

,has also been made the medium for engaging

the winding catch before the carriage starts i nward . During recent

years,however

,what is termed the cone -winding cl ick principle has

become almost the most popular one for engaging and disengag

i ng the winding click . This is Operated from connexions to the

locking- lever,or what is practical ly the same thing

,from the rock

shaft in the middle piece , and this method of engagement,either

with the cone principle or other equivalent one,appears to be

rapidly superseding the others above specified,at any rate with

several machine shops . Wi th the Oldest and simplest form of

winding cl ick,and some other forms

,the recession of the carriage

in a waste Spinning mule working on the woollen mule principle,

due to the draw -back motion , would engage the winding cl ick

before twisting was finished unless Special preventive means were

adopted . As stated , the cone -winding click depends upon the

fal lers looking for its engagement , and for this reason it is easy

with the cone click arrangement to keep the winding catch dis

engaged during the draw -back action of carriage , and yet to obtai n

prompt engagement of the cl ick at the completion of backing-off

and the locking of the fal l ers . To describe one specific applicat ion

of the cone -winding cl ick to a self-acting mule : The ordinary

spectacle spring for the winding catch is entirely d ispensed with,

and in its place is used a strong half - circular spring made from

flat spring steel— it is not a spiral spring at all ; this new spring

being secured to the side of the winding plate or disc plate at one

end,and having its other end pressing firmly upon the top of the

winding catch and always endeavouring to engage the same .

This arrangement Obta ins its particular name of cone -winding

catch motion from the employment of a loose round boss which

surrounds the t in roller shaft , and has one end or edge turned off

to a conical or tapered outl ine . This coned end is forced under

neath a tai l or arm of the winding catch when the carriage getshome aga in , and i n this way the catch is l evered out of gear

,and

i t is held out by the cone during all the way out of the carriage .

At the completion of the backing-off,the movement of the parts

FINAL SPINNING MACHINES FOR COTTON WASTE . 229

connected with the locking of the fa l lers and disengagement of

the backing-off friction,a lso removes the cone bush away from the

arm of the winding cl ick,when the semicircular spring on top of

the catch promptly puts the catch in gear , and holds it firmly there

all the way up of the carriage . A strong spiral spring helps to

force the cone beneath the arm of the cl ick when the carriage gets

i n . This cone winding click therefore not only finds much favour

with ordinary cotton Spinners,but is even more spec ially adapted

to the Operat ion of a waste - Spinning mule in which the draw-back

action of the carriage is required .

Details .

At this point we wil l just give a Simple recital of one firm’

s

own statement w ith regard to special motions that may be applied

to waste Spinning mules . They say In these mules we gener

a l ly apply the fol lowing arrangements : Patent rope tightening

apparatus for rope taking- in scrol l -band tightening frame patent

c l ip for fastening check scrol l band ; cl ick locking motion ; patent

automat ic nos ing motion ; back ing-off cha in t ightening mot ion ;long copping rai l with loose automat ic front incl ine for regulating

the locking of the fal lers patent step covers Specia l arrangements

in connexion with the drawing-out and taking- in of the carriage ,which cause i t to stop in case of obstruct ion during drawing- out

and by which the Spinning operat ions will automatical ly cease

should the cam- shaft by accident make its change before the

proper t ime ; arrangements by which the mule may be suddenly

s topped during the going in of the carriage , to prevent accident ;safety catch to keep the mule stopped ; Specia l arrangements to

disengage the taking- in frict ion by the going in of the carriage ;a lso stop -motion for stopping the mule when the Carriage is close to

the rol ler-beam by which the attendant can stop it from any part

of the length of the mule,when requis ite to replace empty con

denser bobbins with full ones , or for any other purpose , without

running to the headstock .

Special Motions .

There is no better il lustration of the statement that extremes

m eet than is found in the case of the self-acting mule for fine

c ounts when compared with that for the spinning of cotton waste .

A number of special motions are found advisable in spinning

230 COTTON WASTE .

the fine cotton yarns,are not required for spinning medium

counts,and come into action again when spinning the thick yarns

from condenser carding . Si ngle and double spindle Speeds , and

excessive amount of carriage ga in are two of the best examples

of this feature and are required even more in spinning condenser

yarns than in Spinning the finest counts .

There are also cases of using the jacking motion for condenser

yarns,in wh ich case the carriage 1s put on a slow Speed for the

last smal l portion of its traverse to permit of the gai n or ratch

without excess ive thread breakage . More usual ly,however

,a

waste mule can do without a jacking motion .

Twist per inch ,which is so important in fine counts

,is of much

less consequence in coarse counts,and there are perhaps no real ly

accepted standards,suflicient being put in to keep the cotton to

gether . Judgment is exercised as to what the cotton waste wi l l

do and then the twist is humoured to the material .

Cases have been known when the waste has more resembled

sti cks and old hay than cotton ,but i t is astonishing what can be

done with such stuff i f the carriage speeds , twists per inch ,and

carriage draughts are sk i lful ly adjusted at the mule .

Gauge and Speed.

It must be noted that the pitch of the Slubbings i n a s ingle con

denser finisher card,fixes the gaug e of Spindle at the mule .

For example,i n the case of a ring doffer with 15 in . ring fil lets

and 5 in . ring leathers,the pitch from centre of one roving on the

condenser bobbin to centre of the next one,would be 15, and this

would fix the spindle gauge of the mule at 15. There might be

thirty - four of such on one long condenser bobbin from a 48 in .

finisher card .

I f a 2 in . gauge were used there might be twenty- four rovings

of rather low counts,taking a 2 in . spindle gauge at the mule .

I t is quite possible to run a mule on about 6’

s or so up to five,

five and a half,or even six draws per minute

,with a 64 in . stretch

and a cotton headstock,doing all the draughting by carriage ga in

as distinct from ratch

Formerly three and a half draws per minute was more l ike theaverage Speed .

In cases of excessive breakage it may be better to keep the

CHAPTER VI

THE USE OF COTTON -WASTE YARNS IN WEAVING .

The Weaving of Cotton-Waste Yarns.

IN cons idering the adaptabil ity of cotton -waste yarns to woven

fabrics,it is necessary to remember that compared with yarns spun

on the ordinary cotton system of equal counts they are deficient in

s trength and elast icity,but are of greater softness and ful ness , and

of an oozy fibrous nature .

In the major ity of cases their weakness precludes their use i n

the form of warp,s ince they are unable to withstand the stra in of

shedding,the friction of the healds

,reed

,and shuttle in all but

exceptiona l i nstances .

IVoven Goods in which Yarns Spun from Cotton Waste may

be Used.

Cotton -waste yarns are as a rule soft twisted and are very

bulky . They are largely used in the manufacture of such goods

as the following : Table covers,carpets

,quilts

,cotton sheet ings ,

cotton blankets,flannelettes

,curta i ns

,cheap shirt ings

,cheap suit

ings , bath Sheets and towels,cheap dress goods , cheap overcoat

ing s , upholstery for all classes of furniture , cheap towels , cleaning

cloths,sponge cloths , grey twills for such purposes as working

drawers or overal ls for spinners,miners

,stokers

,and other classes

of workmen . The wide range of fabrics may be either pla in or

fancy , pla in or coloured .

Improvements cont inue to be made whereby finer yarns are

spun and this increases the range of fabrics for which cotton -wasteyarns may be adapted .

In the weaving of cotton -waste yarns i nto fabrics of any kind

it must a lways be remembered that in proportion to bulk these

yarns are weak , and partly for this reason they are genera l lyused as wefts , and the only st ra i n therefore that is put upon

(232

THE USE OF COTTON-WASTE YARNS IN WEAVING 233

the yarn is that of drawing from the shuttle and carrying through

the shed that is formed by the warp .

Speaking general ly,the mechanisms of the looms used for weav

ing fabrics into which cotton -waste yarns enter,are very much

of the ordinary kind . If there is any modificat ion at all in any of

the mechanism it is very often in connexron With the shuttle and

shuttle boxes .

For example , the shuttle might be of increased s ize to take a

larger Cop ,and this would a lso compel a larger Shed to be made

to permit the shuttle to pass through with sufficient freedom .

Frequently i t happens that trouble is caused by these COpS

s l ipp ing from the shuttle tongue,thus caus ing excess ive waste and

other damage . Wi th ordinary shuttles this might be remedied by

opening the shuttle tongue to give a better inside grip of the cop .

Possibly a remedy might be found by the spinner start ing to build

higher up the Spindle , which would reduce the size of aperture in

the Cop but would give shorter cops unless there was previously

some unused length of Spindle above the apex of the ful l cop .

In some cases i t is conside red advisable to re -wind the coarser

counts into sol id Cops,which are very t ightly wound , so that for

equal dimensions a COp will last longer in the Shuttle .

In the quiltings,suit ings

,and other cloths of this class the

cot ton -waste yarn is often used as backing weft in which there is aface warp while the backing weft shows only on the back . To putthis i n other words , we may say there would be two wefts and one

warp , but the waste weft remains at the back of the cloth ,being

s t i tched in by a l lowing some definite number of warp threads to

interweave with same . The object of such cloth is to give warmth,

weight and body,and yet to keep the price comparatively low .

In regard to cotton sheetings these are generally of a coarse

twill weave,and they can be produced very cheaply by us ing

coarse or cotton -waste yarns,so tha t such sheetings are i n exten

s ive use at home and are also exported .

A large amount of this kind of cloth is produced and used inthe United States .

Referring now to cotton blankets,these have a disti nctly differ

ent feel and appearance from the cheap sheetings,the difference

being largely due to the fact that the cotton blankets have a napor finish ra ised upon them to imitate wool len goods . As regardsweave this may be either of a pla i n or twil l character .

234 COTTON WASTE .

The cheap shirtings i n which cotton -waste yarns may be used

may be of a satin weave , resul ting in a fine warp face and a waste

weft back .

Sponge or cleaning cloths represent a very different type from

the foregoing,and may be regarded as among the very cheapest

and lowest classes of goods woven from cotton yarns of any de

scription . Sponge or clean ing cloths are as a rule composed

entirely of coarse shoddy or waste yarns— both warp and weft

and are very Open in the weave , partly to obtai n an enhanced

porous effect . As a rule the weave is of a pla in character , or pos

sibly a gauze weave may sometimes be adopted .

Large quantities of cotton -waste yarns are now being used

in the upholstery trade,being woven into tapestry cloths

,with

good patterns,and real ly good effects produced by rich and tastefu l

dyeing .

o

From the nature of the cotton -waste i t is not practicable to

spin any but yarns of low counts , which are therefore sold at a low

price per pound,and are mostly used in fabrics of a bulky

,heavy

character but moderate price . The price of cotton -waste cards on

the roller and clearer principle,us ing double cards

,often with the

D erby doubler interposed,together with other circumstances

,Often

leads to good condenser yarns of the finer counts commanding a .

higher price than yarns of equal counts Spun on the ordinary

system,and the cl oths conta ining the better and finer condenser

yarns are often of superior appearance and finish .

A few of the leading cloths in which cotton -waste yarns are

used may be more fully expla i ned .

Cotton Blankets— Ordinary qual i t ies of this cloth such as are

exported in large quantities to the Eastern markets,Africa and

South America,are made with the plain weave

,the warp being

relat ively fine in counts,say 20

s to 24’

s . The weft ranges from50

s to 130’

s bump counts,i.e . 50 to 130 yards per ounce

,this being

a common method of numbering cotton -waste yarns of the coarsest

nature up to three or four hanks per pound . A l it tle further oni n this treatise we give a l ist comparing cotton counts with bumpcounts . Better qual i ti es for the home trade

,sometimes sold as

“ chari ty blankets , are made i n heavier weights with twil l weavesand with strong warps

,say 12

s to 18’

s,and perhaps with more

picks per inch of coarse weft than if for export The weft is from

cot ton waste of moderate qual i ty such as wash waste and

236 COTTON WASTE .

the softness of the latter and the arrangement of the fibres being

particularly suitable to this process . The ra is ing machine in com

mon use for cotton fabrics cons ists of a number of smal l rol lers,

each covered with fine teeth,and supported in bearings at the

end of arms which are attached to a central shaft . The cloth is

stretched tightly round the rol lers,and when the central shaft is

revolved,and the cloth drawn forward

,the rol lers also are revolved .

Meanwhile the wire teeth have penetrated the soft spun weft

threads and as they leave the cloth they drag the ends of fibres

with them,thus giving a fine nap or pile to the surface of the

cloth . Orig inally the nap or pile was obta ined by scratching

the surface of the cloth by card filleting , but while grvrng the

FIG . 52.—B lanket Loom (R . Ha l l Sons) .

desired effect this process dragged’

a considerable number of fibres

out of the cloth . Wi th the newer machines there is very l ittle loss

of fibre and weight , and a better nap is obtained with fewer passages

through the machine .

For some markets blankets are dyed,scarlet being a com

mon colour ; in other cases the cloth is printed with variously

coloured flora l designs ; animal figures are also printed upon the

cloth for markets,the l ion

,t iger

,elephant

,etc .

,being represented

in large s i zes . The printing is usual ly done by hand by the aid

of blocks,this being one of the few rema in ing cases i n which the

old- fashioned method of cloth printing stil l survives .

Sheetings are l ighter in weight,and made from finer yarns Of

better qual ity than blankets,the weft rang ing from 3

s to 8’

s cotton

counts and the twist‘ up to 32’

s . The weave is general ly two up

THE USE OF COTTON-WASTE YARNS IN WEAVING. 237

and two down or sheeting twil l,but the plai n or calico twill is

also used . Same typ e of loom,but of lighter construction than

the'

one last il lustrated is used for sheetings , and the cloth is soldboth in the raised and non-raised condition .

Cleaning Cloths . (Fig .

These are an exception to the general rule in that they haveboth warp and weft composed of coarse waste yarns . The softnessof the lat ter , together with their low price and Open structure

arising from the method of interweaving them,gives a fabric

which by reason of bulk and absorbent properties is special ly

suitable for cleaning purposes . This cloth is also very easily

cleaned for using again ,and when used for cleaning oily machinery

FIG . 53 .—The Sponge C loth Loom (R . H al l Sons) .

the absorbed oil'

can be reclaimed . Two styles of cleaning

cloth are i n use. In the first kind the warp and weft

are interwoven in the plain or cal ico order by looms of ordin

ary construction,but the second kind

,commonly known as

sponge cloth,is woven by the gauze or leno principle of weaving

,

i n which the warp threads are twisted partly round each other,

with the resul t that increased strength is obtained without losing

the required open structure . For ordinary gauze or leno weaving,

special ly constructed healds known as“ doups are employed ;

but the coarseness and strength of the warp yarn , together with the

strai n arising from the necessary deep Shed,or division in the

warp to be formed for the passage of the Shuttle , causes rapid

wear and destruction of such doup healds . Sponge cloths are

therefore woven by Special ly constructed looms in which two rows

238 COTTON WASTE .

of needles take the place of doups and healds,one row pointing

upwards , and the other row pointing downwards,while the warp

threads are alternately drawn through the needle eyes . The

needles are secured in bars which are controlled by tappets and

levers in such a manner that,besides rising and fal ling to form

a shed ,they can also be moved sideways for the cross ing of the

warp threads .

At each end of the piece a few picks of fine weft are usual ly

put i n and woven in plain order more closely than the coarser

p icks of the body . In these picks the needles are moved up and

down in plain order only,and the Speed of the take -up motion is

automatically reduced . A few picks of coloured weft are also

thrown in at the ends and a drop -box is provided at one end of

the sley for this purpose .

Double Cloth Weave with Waste Cotton Weft.

It is sometimes the case that double - cloth weaves are con

s tructed with either the weft or the warp of wadding or cotton

waste yarn ,the use of weft in this connexion being much more

prevalent than that of warp .

This practice adds both weight and bulk to the woven cloths,

and it is poss ible to do it in double cloths without the waste yarn

showing on either the face or the back of the cloth . Take a

Specific instance with the face and the back of cassimere twil l with

one face , one back in the warp ,and one face

,one back

,one cotton

waste yarn in the fil l ing .

The cotton waste or wadding yarn is of course a bulky,moder

a tely twisted and cheap yarn,and this is picked into the cloth

,the

face warp ends are l ifted and the back warp ends are held down

so that the weft waste yarn is put in the centre of the cloth with

out showing and without interlacing with either face or back warp

ends . Weight and bulk are thus durably imparted to the cloth

without deteriorat ing the appearance . In some cases of cotton

waste warp the waste yarns are ra ised over every backing pick and

depressed over every face pick so as to be put into the centre of the

c loth .

One reason for cheap thick yarns from cotton waste Spun on

the condenser principle being more used for weft than warp,is

that warp yarns are subjected to more stra in than the weft,and are

l iable to be rubbed by the healds and reeds and shuttle .

240 COTTON WASTE .

the overlooker talks severely to the Operatives and says they mus t

bring less waste in .

They wil l do this,but i t is common knowledge that in many

cases i t has been only because they have taken some of the wastehome

,and so the master now has a double loss .

I t may be easy at stock - taking to find out that a considerable

weight of yarn has entered the winding room that has never been

accounted for,but i t is not so easy to pick out the culprits and

bring them to book .

Much the same remarks apply to the weavers in many cases,

and especial ly in places i n which the moral and religious char

acters of the Operatives have not been developed and main

tained.

Often the weavers simply fetch skips or boxes of weft,bring

the waste back with the empty skip,are rebuked or fined if too

much waste is brought in ,with the result that next t ime some of

the waste is taken home,and probably nothing is sa id to the

weaver . All this kind of thing puts a premium on the unsern

pulous weaver , and the thing is manifestly wrong in principle .

Winders are often paid so much per pound’

s weight of yarn

and weavers so much per length of cloth or per cut,

and taking

too much trouble with badly Skewering and badly readying copsrepresents so much loss to them .

Improved methods of Skewering the twist Cops by winders,

and pin cop weft by the weavers , combined with better systems of

checking the twist given to winders and the weft given to weavers,

have certain ly resul ted in the reduction of losses i n winders’

warpers’

,slashers’

,and weavers

waste ; the winders’

and weaversespecial ly . Counts and qual i ties of yarns should be checked

,and

each class of goods considered separately .

Cop-Skewering .

In the case of weft for weavers i t is perhaps as well for the

spinning mules to be fit ted with ful l - cop stop -motions which stopthe mul e by preventing engagement of the taking - ih friction when

the plates of the copping motion have moved a certa in distance

and the cops have reached a definite fixed length . How can a

weaver help making waste if the cops are too long for the shuttles ‘

2

The shuttle pegs ought also to be capable of retaining the ceps

firmly after having been skewered,and the cops should be spun

THE USE OF COTTON -WASTE YARNS IN WEAVING . 241

on mule spindles of the correct thickness and Cop bottoms startedat the right distance from the bolsters . I t is not fa i r to have the

shuttle pegs so blunt that they can with difficul ty pierce the Copwithout stabbing . Neither must the Opposite extreme of shuttle

tongues too sharp be provided or they will often catch internal

threads and lead to breakage i n winding off. There is perhaps

i ncreased danger of this in cases where loose coils are run over the

noses of the cops upon the bare spindle at the mule every time the

fal lers unlock .

In cases of very softly Spun and softly built cops i t may be

best to build the cops on through tubes at the mule, although

these through tubes cause unsteady Spindles , are comparatively

cost ly, and requ i re more time in putting on the spindles

,Since

tubing apparatus is in very common use for putting short tubes

on the spindles . In the case of ordinary COp winding of twist

yarns of medium counts and moderate price, winders are often

recruited from girls and women,who from some reason or other

have been unable to Cope with the more arduous and often more

highly paid duties of weavers,and this is a disadvantage often .

A t any rate in this one item of Skewering cops with pasted cop

bottoms as much Skil l is necessary as in anything else,if the

minimum amount of waste is to be produced .

In the case of yarns of good qual ity and probably of comparatively fine counts , i t is advisable not to employ winders whose handshave a distinct tendency to perspire , Since this leads sometimes

to corrosion of the spindles , after which it becomes difficul t to

quickly and sat isfactorily skewer the Cops . Na turally,this point

is worthy of attention ,even in the case of lower -priced yarns

,but

more so i n regard to the more costly sorts . Many of the points under

discussion affect the Skewering of cOps , either in weaving or doublingmills

,or apply even in the case of some commiss ion or other reelers .

Shuttle tongues being Spli t wil l often hold a Cop firmly even

when the aperture is a l i ttle too big,but in the case of winders

or reelers’

skewers i t is important that these be of the same shape

and dimension as the spindles of the mul e if waste is to be kept

down to a minimum and good winding secured . For good skewer

ing of cops practice is necessary , and i t has been suggested in the

case of large firms i t might even pay to employ a skil ful Operat ive

to teach the art of COp -Skewer ing to the beginners and others less

skilled in the work .

242 COTTON WASTE .

In the case of weft that is i ntended to be bleached or dyed in

cop form the problem of made -up Cop bottoms and waste in COp

skewering becomes even more acute, since any handling of the

Cops between spinner and weaver will be so much against the

maintenance of good apertures i n the cops . COp bleaching or

dyeing probably makes the use of tubes— as aga inst starching

stil l more necessary. I t has been contended that higher training

in regard to cop-Skewering would make weavers independent of

requiring tubed Cop bottoms even in the case of bleached or dyed

ceps , and at any rate the point is worthy of attention .

Winders , weavers , and reelers should avoid pull ing lengths of

yarn from the cOps .

A great idea i n Skewering consists in keeping the point of the

spindle,skewer or shuttle peg, as much as possible in the centre

of the aperture,and prevent the tip from penetrating any threads

on the walls of the apertures .

Demonstrations have been made which go to show that a lmost

any kind of ceps , however badly crushed ,may be skewered by a

skilful person .

Sometimes winders’

waste is not col lected for several days andthis gives them more opportunity of wrongly disposing of i t as

compared with collection every day, especial ly if much grumbling

is done for excess ive waste .

In the case of doubling winding,there has been a good dea l

o fWaste made by cob -webbing or running off the ends when quick

traverse drum winders are used .

It is poss ible a lso to overfill flanged bobbins and thus to cause

extra waste . Sometimes the tubes for quick traverse winding do

not exactly fit the cradle,thus l eaving it poss ible for a tube to

work a l i ttle on one Side , or be placed on one Side after p iecing-up ,

with the inevitable result of cob-webbing . At the next process

such run -off threads will probably break and lead to waste .

Winders’

,weavers’, reelers

,and doublers ’ waste is really much

more of a real loss to the master than is waste from a card,

comber,or fly- frame

,because i t has borne all the cost of manufac

turing nearly to the end ; and yet may only command a low price

if sold as waste , because i t is di fficult to break up in the earl ier

machines used in a waste - Spinning mil l,and is very fluffy and

weak after such treatment .

In regard to waste made at the doubling or twisting frame a

244 COTTON WASTE .

which is taken up i n the old system by the wooden pirn is con

sequently filled with yarn. In addition to this,the cops pro

duced can be of a greater diameter without increas ing the

externa l d imensions of the shuttle,on account of the Cop

rest ing in the Shuttle itself instead of being placed on a

spindle or tongue . The quantity of yarn placed in the same

s i ze of shuttle by this new system is from two to five- fold that

of the old system ,according to the counts and previous condi

tions . What an economy this immediately effects is at onc e

Old System , New System,

\Vith Wooden P irn. W ith Ha lf Pirn .

FIG . 55.— (R . Ha l l Sons) .

apparent . The winder winds a longer length at one operation ,

and the weaver weaves from two to five t imes as much without

changing the shuttle . Not only does the production become

larger,but there is a saving in waste , because every t ime the

weaver re-fills a shuttle a smal l length of weft is wasted . The

main saving is in the stoppages of the loom being greatly reduced ,

the effective number of picks per day being greatly increased . Itis also well known that the repa irs for looms are much less when

the stoppages are reduced . Another point which must not be

overlooked is the producing of better selvedges . By the old

THE USE OF COTTON -WASTE YARNS IN WEAVING. 245

system the tension of the weft becomes greater and greater

as the wooden pirn gets empty . By the new system describedthe tension remai ns practical ly equal from beginning to end .

The machine is suitabl e for all counts of l inen ; fine , coarse ,and waste cottons ; woollen yarns

,asbestos and ramie wefts

,

jute,hemp

,etc . Thousands of spindles are at work in the

product ion of quilts,honeycombs

,sponge - cloths

,tapestry and

Brussels carpets,lappings , sai lcloth and duck

,damask towels

and tablecloths , l i nens , cotton blankets,trouserings

,sackings

,

hessians , hosepipes , etc .,etc .

In fig. 55 we give proportionate drawings of the old and

new systems,which Show at a glance the greater quantity of yarn

placed in a shuttle of equal Si ze by the new system .

The machine may be used to wind sol id cops to weave from

the inside,or to wind on to hal f pirns to weave from the

outside . I t is arranged to wind from warping bobbins,slubber

bobbins , large or smal l banks or Cops . A lso to wind two threadsat once .

CHAPTER VII .

VAR IOUS NOTES.

IN this section a number of features are deal t with which are

more or less connected with the ma in subject of this book , but do

not lend themselves to more specific classification .

The Counts of Cotton-Waste Yarns.

The counts of yarn from such machines as the can frame ,chapon and cup or j umbo winderare always very coarse and hardly

ever conta in much twist,especially from the first and last of these

three machines .

Such yarns are more like very coarse yarn Spun on the roving

frame,but with a more ha i ry appearance . It is quite a common

practice i nstead of terming such yarns '5’

S or 1’

s or 15’

s or 2’

s

counts,to state the yards per ounce . For cotton blankets and

cotton quilt ings the very lowest numbers from 5 up to 15 or so

appear to be in less demand in the Bolton and other districts than

formerly,owing to the almost complete ext inction of heavy hand

loom weaving . A good proportion of lime -bleached waste is usedfor these very coarse yarns

,say often from 60 to 70 per cent , with

the rest of bet ter stuff, such as clearer waste and strips .

The following table shows the comparison of ordinary cotton

counts with the yards per ounce system from °5’

s up to 10’

s counts,

but i t is chiefly in the lowest of these that the yards per ounce

system has been much in vogue .

Apart from bleaching,the character of the waste affects the

colour of the grey - spun yarn,so that droppings and sweepings ,

possibly mixed with dull,di rty raw cotton s , such as some Indian

,

may be used in Spinning such yarns .

(246)

248 COTTON WASTE .

Raw Egyptian cotton per lb .

Comber waste

Card strips

Card back flyBobbin waste

Cl earer waste cotton per lb .

Scaveng er waste

StockingsFlat waste

Opener and scutcher droppings per score lb .

Cardroom sweepings

Mule - room

Flue dirt

The price of waste does not appear to go up in any fixed

proport ion to the price of raw cotton,but fromthe above l ist a

fair idea of average proportionate prices may be obtained . Wi thAmerican cotton at 7d. ,

s trips and bobbin waste m ight fetch 35d.

per 1b .

Approximate Prices of Condenser Yarns.

I t is a somewhat aston ishing fact that condenser yarns in the

higher numbers and qual i ties have been generally dearer than

ordinary cotton yarns of decent qua l it ies . One would natural ly

imagine that , the cotton being taken directly from card to mule

without us i ng fly- frames or draw- frames

,and using no better

class of raw material,the condenser yarn would be inevitably

cheaper for any counts . In the higher ranges of condensed yarns ,however , the prices per pound have often gone up excessively , so

that 14’

s ordinary cotton yarn could be bought cheaper than 10’

s

condenser yarn,while the price of l0

s condenser has been dispro

portionately higher than 8’

s ,and 8

s than 6’

s .

Poss ibly this can be partly expla ined by the fact that the ring

doffer has been the favourite type of condenser in E ngland ,and

this is not very su i table for the finer ranges of counts . I t is

seldom that more than 36 threads have been made at one t ime

on a ring-dofl’

er card and this does not come out very fine .

. Thedouble tape condenser le nds i tself better to the finer counts, not

speaking of the possibi l i t ies of the treble and quadruple tape con

densers . We are accustomed to associate condenser yarns with

V ARIOUS NOTES. 249

shoddy and cheapness,but at any rate the finer ranges of con

denser yarns are really more valuable than equal counts of fully

spun and twisted rol ler draughted cotton yarns for many purposes ,

and will produce much better effects in certain direct ions . For

example,th is is notably the case in regard to quite a number of

woven fabrics i n which the ful l character of the condensed yarnis of immense value . At the same t ime the Open character of the

condensed yarn lends i tself readily to the influence of dyeing

materials,a very large proport ion of this class of yarn being dyed

in one colour or another .

From these remarks i t wil l be seen that many customers wil l

be prepared to . pay more for a good condensed yarn than for its

equival ent in rol ler draughted yarns with parall el fibres . Very

frequently German spun condenser yarns of good qual i ty and i n the

finer ranges have been imported into England,this being one of

the very few examples in which foreign spun cotton yarns have

found their way into Lancashire .

Double carding adds to cost of condenser yarns .

Cotton-Seed Products .

The products from cotton seed are various and have recentlysmuch increased in quantity . Many years ago (1888) there was

prepared the following table from the actual results of oil

m il ls :

Products from a Test of Seeds .

Linters 20 pounds .

Meats 1089

Cake or meal,feeding stuff

,fert il i zer 800

Hulls 891

Crude oil 289

Other details : summer yellow,winter yel low

,cotton seed

s tearin,salad oil

,summer white

,lard

,cottolene

,miners

oi l,soap

,

bran,fuel

,ashes .

In 1896 it was stated that processes of manufacture had

so improved that over 300 pounds (40 to 45 gal lons) of

oil could be obtai ned from each ton of seed . Also del inting

machines have been introduced which remove a much larger

amount of linters than given in above table .

250 COTTON WASTE

We may now add in 1921 that the production of oil,lard

,

l inters,and other valuable articles has been recently carried to a far

greater and more profitable extent than in 1896, owing to various

causes .

The Condenser R ubbers.

There are some persons who contend that the rubbers of the

condenser put twist in the cotton ,but this can scarcely be true as

the action is not a continuous forward rotary one upon the cotton

but purely a reciprocating one.

I t is a more or l ess common practice to castor oil the rubbers,

possibly two or three times per week under circumstances,but

new rubbers may need castor oil a time or two per day, applied

with rubbers working but wi th card run bare . The rubbers are

always made of leather and obtain their name from their rubbing

action on the cotton strands .

Stripp ing .

As in the case of stripping doors of carding engines there is

a certain element of danger to the Operatives working on waste

cards . For example , i t is wi thin the author’s knowledge that

recently an Operat ive had the lid of the fancy rol ler Open and

Sl ipped on the floor made greasy with oil ing the condenser,and

in this way got his hand in the wire with consequent serious

injury .

I t is more or less the practice for the minder and piecer to look

after the waste -spinning mule and a number of cards— say four ,for which they break off and put laps on and transfer the longcondenser bobbins to the mule creel . They may,

however,not do

any stripping and grinding .

As a rule,the grinders on waste cards do not get quite as much

wage per week as do strippers and grinders on ordinary cotton

Spinning . As a consequence the grinders will often leave the

waste mills and get into the proper cotton mills when there is an

opportunity . Some prefer the waste work .

There are examples of small waste - Spinning concerns usinglow qualit ies and depending ent i rely upon adjacent mills for theirsupply and closing down whenever this supply fai ls them . Naturally , the carriage cost of the worst kinds of droppings must notreach much or this feature alone would be prohibitive of its use.

252 COTTON WASTE .

Some Spinning concerns have instal led machines by means

o f which they make their own banding from their own damaged

c ops .

Moderate unevenness in yarns , COps of snarly yarn , nicked

COpS, soft Cops,cops with bad bottoms or other similar defects ,

are not perhaps so objectionable for making into banding as they

a re for the more usual purposes to which cotton yarn is put .

FIG . 57 .— Ba l l ing Machine (Hetherington Son) .

Overlooking and Kinds of Waste.

The coarseness of the counts at the mule ,the limited number

of Spinning machines in use, and other circumstances often pre

e lude the employment of a full -fledged mule overlooker, and as a

rule the onus of keeping things in good order chiefly devolves uponthe carder . The carder at t imes may find his posit ion a very uhenviable one , especial ly as often the manager or master will buythe waste and give instructions for its use without consulting thec arder , leaving the latter to get through to the bes t of his abil ity ,

VARIOUS NOTES . 253

al though the characterof the mixing is in its way quite as important

as in ordinary cotton Spinning.

Such are the variations i n cotton waste tha t it is often highly

desirable for consultations to take place between the manager or

buyer of the waste and the carder,as i n this way much un

pleasantness may be avoided in the way of bad work , diminished

production,and loss of wages to the spinners .

I t is a regular thing for one kind of waste, to be too expens ive

and too good for the qual ity of yarn required ,and so i t is neces

sary to blend the same judic iously with poorer and cheaper sorts

of waste . Judgment and experience are necessary for this to be

done to the best all- round advantage .

Too often the manager is almost solely guided by the all

powerful obj ect of putting down a mixing which must only cost a

certain price per pound .

It is poss ible for a mill with eight pa irs of mules Spinningabout 8

s average counts to have its product ion reduced from

lb . per week down to poss ibly lb . by cutting downthe price per pound of the mixing only very Sl ightly . I t is wel l for

a manager to remember tha t ends keeping up at the mule may be

very benefic ia l to the firm a s wel l as to the spinners .

There are many waste mills which work overt ime accord ingto the state of trade

,as the operatives

union rules are not applied

as stringently to such mills as to ordinary cotton spinning mills .

Unreasonably poor mixings will lead to overtime to fetch

production and wages up,too much of the stuff going back as

waste instead of sel l ing as weft at a profitable pri ce,in addit ion

to extra cost in cardroom wages,in coal and driving power .

Spindle banding is often made from spoiled Cops and hencewe show fig . 57 .

Hard Ends .

It is necessary to exerc ise reasonable care in regard to the admixture of different lengths of fibre in the waste , as i t is difficultto get the machinery to operate satisfactori ly upon the differentlengths of fibre .

In such cases what are termed hard ends may be expected

in excess ive proport ion , and these will either break at the fin isheror will be responsible for very many breakages at the mule .

In the ordinary waste spinning mule roller draught is not

254 COTTON WASTE .

used and the draughting iOf jthe cot ton is all done by “ carriage

draught,that is

,the carriage moving faster than the roller de

l ivery . Hard ends will not yield to carr iage draught properly

and wil l e ither break ent irely during spinning, or will then

partially break and afterwards completely break during backing

o ff or winding -on .

The first duty of the ofl‘icials and operat ives is . to make the

material to Spin,but i f this be done by taking twist out and fal ler

weight off, in order to make the hard ends to draw ,then trouble

may be expected wi th the customers in regard to soft yarn or

s oft COpS. Apart from this there may be reduced production

through increased twist,and smal ler builder wheels with shorter

l engths on cops owing to the latter being softer .

If the machin es are set to break the long fibre to nothing,in

the earl ier machines there is an excessive amount of waste,a

troublesome amount of lap - l icking,with consequent uneven yarn

,

as there is l it tle chance to provide a remedy by subsequentdoubling .

Workmen .

I t is not too much to say that in waste Spinning there is quiteas much advantage in a man bei ng thoroughly used to his mulesas i n ordinary cotton spinning, so that frequently a s ick minder

l l drop down in production to an inconveniently large extent .

Waste of sufficient qua l i ty,regular work and fair treatment

will command good workmen— an undoubted advantage to any

firm . At the same time good prices are more l ikely to be Obta ined

for the yarn and customers reta ined .

With a poor mixing there may be extra loss i n blow- room at

the cards,and i n using bad bobbins at the mules .

Fine Counts from lVaste.

I t is stated that in concerns set out to Spin from cotton wasteon the tape condenser system as high as 16

s cotton counts may

be produced from 9 hank condenser ends . In these cases goodc omber waste has been largely used , and no waste brought in thatneeded the soaping arrangement .

Such waste natural ly needs only a moderate amount of Opening and cleaning in the earl i er machines . The preparation system

lends i tsel f best to making fine counts .

256 COTTON WASTE .

the coal needed to sui t any particular mil l is sometimes to bedecided by the indi v idual case

,since i t happens that the l imited

boiler and driving power of one mill demands good quick steam

raising coal , while another mill can well afford to use a cheaper

i f slower -burn ing coal .

Apart from all this,an efficient

,careful fireman will keep his

fires wel l spread over the grate bars,regulate his dampers to

admit the proper quantity of air,keep his fires clean

,endeavour

to maintain a uniform pressure of steam and therefore steady

driving,and final ly will use every endeavour to burn the smoke .

No doubt the present very extensive use of efficient mechanical

stokers will aid i n preventing waste in coal consumption , but in

crustat ion should be limited in the boi ler , flues should be kep t

clean,the economizers should be kept clean

,while steam pipes ,

boilers and cylinders should be kept well covered to prevent heat

loss from this source .

Woollen and Worsted Machines. Summary.

The following specificat ions from a l eading machinist are in

troduced to Show the general resemblance between these machines

and those used for cotton waste

Carding and Sp inning Machinery.

For all kinds of woollen and worsted cards,with iron or wood

cylinders and doffers ; improved single and double stripper con

densers ; also double doffer condenser , with four heights of sur

face drums,for bringing off double number of threads ; hOpper

feeds,with weighing apparatus for scribbler or first machine ; also

improved Scotch,bank and bal l

,or other feeds for intermediates

or carders,self-acting wil lows

,tenter -hook willow or fearnought

grinding machines,etc .

,etc .

Sel f-acting mules with rim at back or paral lel to roller beams ,

suppl ied with wood or our patent metal carriage , with all the latest

improvements .

“ Carding machinery on the Belgian principle , consisting of

scribbler , i ntermediate and finishing carder,with bal l ing machine

and bank feed,between scribbler and intermediate

,and Scotch

feed,between intermediate and finishing carder . Carder fitted

with tape condenser to take from 50 to 120 good threads off a

60 i n . machine .

VARIOUS NOTES. 257

Carding machinery for blankets,carpet yarns , shoddy, hair ,

and other coarse fibres,with Blamire

s or Scotch feeds , and fitted

wi th double doffer condensers with ordinary or tandem rubbers .

Carding machinery for angola yarns,meltons

,unions

,mungo

etc . , with single stripper or double stripper condensers , with

ordinary or‘ tandem rubbers .

Carding machinery for botany and merino wools,with four

l ickers- in,two cylinders

,and two doffers

,fitted wi th bal l ing head

,

or coiler .

Carding machinery for crossbred and medium wools , with two

l ickers -in,breas t

,two cylinders

,and two doffers

,fi tted with bal l

i ng head or coi ler .

Carding machinery for camel ha ir,cashmere

,moha ir

,vicuna

,

etc ., wi th one l icker - in

,breas t

,two cylinders

,and two doffers

fitted wi th ball ing head or coiler .

Condensers for carding machinery of all descriptions . Single

doffer,

single rubber condensers,with ordinary or ‘ tandem

rubbers . Single doffer,double rubber condensers

,with ordinary

or‘tandem ’ rubbers

,tape condensers to take from 50 to 120

good threads off a 60 in . machine . Double doffer,double rubber

condensers,with ordi nary or ‘ tandem ’ rubbers . Condensers of

all descriptions fitted to existing carding machines .

“ Bank feeds,bal l ing machines

,Blamire

s feeds,and Scotch

feeds fitted to existing carding machines .

Self-acting mules for all kinds of woollen ha ir,shoddy

,mungo

carpet yarns,blankets

,angola yarns

,Scotch yarns , tweeds , etc . ,

cannot be surpassed for simplicity,durability

,strength

,or econo

mical working,and suppl ied with the fol lowing

Speeds — This mule is made with one,two

,or three speeds

,as

requ ired .

“ Spindle stop motion supplied if requ ired .

Changes of the cam shaft effected by a pos i tive motion,and so

arranged that no two motions are antagonist ic and cannot bein gear at the same time .

“ Improved twist motion,pushing- in motion

,Spindle retarding

motion ,Slubbing del ivery motion

,etc .

Coal.

In regard to consumption of coal a comparison should be made

i n regard to total amount used and results compared,so that the

17

258 COTTON WASTE .

true relat ive value of different descriptions of coal may be asoer

tained.

The consumption of oil is another important item , and waste

may occur in this connexion in several ways,such as using oil

that is too thin or too thick for part icular bearings , the Operatives

a l lowing oil to run on bearings too carelessly as on the Spindle

bolsters and rollers of self-acting mules . Careless appl icat ion of

O i l to rollers on any machine stains the yarn , and does damage

bes ides wast ing the oil.

I t has become the very common practice to use mineral oi ls,

and especial ly for the lighter bearings such as ring- frame and

mule Spindles . Castor Oil, sperm oil and tal low are, however , i n

extens ive use for some lubrication .

I t is not contended that free use of good oil is necessarily

waste,since light running of parts

,durabil ity of parts

,consump

tiOn of coa l and other items are affected by the question of sat isfactory lubrication .

It is for the operatives and foremen to see that efficient

lubrication is obtained wi thout undue waste of expensive oil .Bel ting and l eather are two other important items in which

undue cost and waste easily occur . The purchase of poor leather

may easi ly prove a double loss in reducing production and sooncompelling renewal .

City Guilds E xamina tion Question,1909 .

There are two common methods of preparing waste cotton

ready for the Spinning process ; describe these fully . Say which

you consider gives the best resul ts,and give reasons .

Answer .— There are various differences in the detai led treat

ment of cotton waste in the blow - room,but these may belong to

either of the two methods presumably referred to i n the quest ion .

In the same way the cotton waste may be transferred from breaker

to finisher cards either by the Scotch feed or the Derby doubler

systems . The two distinctive systems,however

,are first strongly

and definitely marked at the delivery of the finisher card,at which

point i t is decided whether waste yarns are to be prepared on

( 1) the condenser system,or (2) the manifold coiler or preparation

s ystem .

In the condenser system the thick web of cotton waste is

d ivided up into a number of individual strands,from 30 to 40

260 COTTON WASTE

Vigogne Yarns.

At the time of writing a mill i n Bury is being adapted to the

production of V igogne yarns . V igogne means cotton spun to

imitate wool,and is!made in all sorts of colours and colour mix

tures . V igogne yarns are made not from waste , but from good

American cotton ,and mixtures of cotton and wool . This trade is

not done at present i n this country , but is done to some extent on

the Continent and imported here . The only reason it is not done in

this country is that Lancashire spinners have never been able to

see change for a shil l ing in the bus iness . Obviously German

machinery and methods could have been introduced here if anybody had thought it worth while . Lancashire spinners have not

been asl eep . The business has not been done simply because

they could not see any possible chance of profit in it . The E lton

COp Dyeing Company have certain new and novel methods and

machinery in the spinning,bleaching and dyeing which they think

wil l enable them to do this better and cheaper than it has been

done hitherto .

E xtracts from Consular Reports.

l

Cotton waste includes two very distinct classes one a thread

waste used for wiping and packing purposes by railway and navi

gation companies ; the other a soft waste of various grades whichis re- spun or otherwise mechanically treated . Hard thread wasteis exported

from Germany to the United States,while soft waste is

exported from the United States to Europe in enormous and in

creasing qnantities .

The Soft,

_waste,of which Germany requires Increasing quan

tities , is chiefly worked up into yarns,which are used in the

manufacture of cotton or of half-woollen goods , .

“ Eng l ish , French and American wastes are highly valued in theGerman market and are usual ly better than German wastes .

“ The German market is ready to absorb every variety of softwaste and l ikes American waste because i t almost all originatesfrom American cotton .

Market prices for cotton waste in Germany are regulated by

the range on Middl ing Upland cotton in New York . Strips may

command possibly 90 per cent of cotton price and comber waste

1Pre-war.

VARIOUS NOTES. 261

or roving waste may command as good a price as raw cotton on

a ccount of the smal l loss i n Opening and cleaning .

Many factories for us ing cotton waste have been established

during recent years in Germany .

Some of the uses for cotton waste in Germany are as waddingferupholstery purposes

,and i n the manufacture of smokeless powder .

Cotton linters are much imported into Germany .

Also cotton pickings composed of pieces of cotton which comeoff i n sampling and i n transportation

,and become dirtier than the

ordinary cotton and a re separately sold at possibly 90 per cent or

so of cotton price .

“German manufacturers - have such l ittle demand for cotton

tipped cigarettes that they'

often use ordinary loose cotton when re

quired for that purpose .

“ It is understood that in Russ ia there is a moderate demand

for partly spun cotton,a ba l l of which is inserted in the mouth

piece to prevent tobacco dust from entering the mouth of thesmoker , while at the same time the moisture is absorbed .

A good amount of cotton waste is imported into Lancashirefrom the United States, and the following have been given as prices

quoted in September, 1909 :

Combers 5d. to 55d. per pound ; card -strips 35d. to 55dSpinner

s waste 5d. to 55d. coloured card 3d. to 35d. cop waste

35d. to 4d. ; oily cards and soiled cards according to qual ity . The

Manchester Ship Canal Company puts a toll of 3s . per ton on cotton

waste entering that port,and there is also a quay porterage of 1s . 3d.

per ton . I t is est imated that France produces more cotton waste

than she uses .

In 1900 the fol lowing statements (in substance) were made

i n respect of cotton waste

In Manchester district yarns made from cotton waste are

very much out in price and are not very profitable .

Probably hal f the waste made in E ngland is exported to the

Continent . Cotton waste comprises a clean soft mil l refuse

worked into wadding ; mill sweepings and dirty oily soft mil l

refuse worked up into coarse yarns 4’

s or 6’

s by a special plant .

Also hard waste made from different processes known as Spinners’

waste,reelers

’ waste,weavers

’ waste,i ncluding Cop bottoms . This

hard waste is broken up by a different plant from the soft waste .

There is some hard waste which is made into engine waste or

262 COTTON WASTE .

cleaning waste . Cotton waste is sometimes spun on ordinary

spinn ing machinery,but more often upon a special plant .

As far as we know the yarn from cotton waste is made up

i nto yarns for such purposes as —candle wick,Sponge cloths ,

towel manufacture,bed quiltings

,flannelettes

,and for the backs of

Kidderminster carpets . In very many cases only one port ion of

the manufactured article is from cotton -waste yarn ,the other

portion being from ordinary wool or cotton -yarn .

D istricts on the Continent to which cotton waste is exported

include Verviers (Belgium) , Fermonde (Belgium) , Rhenish Pruss ia

(M. G ladbach) , ChemnitzOne l ist of waste was given as fol lowsDroppings from openers and scutchers

,flat strips

,grid fly ,

brush strips,card - room sweepings

,comber waste

,bobbin waste ,

clearer waste,hard waste

,fluker waste

,carriage fly

,spinning

room sweepings,oily waste . Such a variety of waste requires a

variety of treatment .“Most Of the cotton waste imported from the US A. goes to

Hamburg and is sent from Hamburg to the German and Austrian

cotton districts . Hungary sends its cotton waste largely to these

places .

“ Cleaning cloths absorb a good deal of the dirtiest waste .

Sponge cloths a lso take a good deal .

Wastes in the Woollen Trade.

In what are termed the low woollen districts large quan

tities of rags are regularly used up again after being thoroughly

torn up . Various terms are appl ied to such waste, such as flocks

,

shoddy , mungo , or extract . Noils or proper waste is usual lybetter than re-manufactured stuff such as above specified .

Dust ing , sorting , seaming , oil ing and grinding are processes in

cluded in the treatment of such re-manufactured stuff as mungo andshoddy . E xtract is a term applied to material for gri nding up

which is Obtained from waste cotton and wool cloths from which

the cotton portions have been extracted by what is termed thesulphuric acid process

, or some equival ent .In cotton it is usual to apply the term comber waste to the

large percentage of waste extracted at this point,but i n wool

combing the term nOil”is appl ied to the material rej ected in

preparing and combing of wool . Noi ls therefore come in a differ

264 COTTON WASTE .

the processes and has had the ful l cost of production put into it .

At the same time the waste may be Of less value per pound than

soft waste from the card or comber,because i t takes so much treat

ment in a cylinder breaking machine and thereby loses so much

of its streng th .

A prol ific cause of waste on a doubl ing frame is the breakage

of threads and their entanglement with adjacent threads .

In one case special means are adopted to prevent entanglement

or l icking of the threads due to snarl ing . This is done by giving

a wide spacing to the lengths of threads extending from the nip

of the rol lers to the stump rai l when the machine is stopped,and

bringing the length nearer when the machine is working . By

this means broken ends are caught up by one of the adjacent

lengths of thread,and these become lapped round the top rol ler

instead of being del ivered amongst the spindles with resul t ing

excessive waste and doubles’

Waste in Wip ing up Oil.

Writing on the subject of loss in lubricants an American

a uthority recently said“ I t was found that the oil- soaked waste used

in wiping upwas sent to the boi lers to be burned in one case .

“ In wiping up around engines i t has been found by experi

ment that a pound of dry waste will,after being used and squeezed

out by hand,weigh 2 lb .

,or as the writer found out at one plant

,

there was a loss Of one gal lon of oil for every 10 lb . of dry

waste used this in i tself is quite an i tem . In most large plants i t

will pay to i nstall some make of Oi l and waste - saving machine,by

means of which the oil is extracted and fil tered,and the waste

washed,dried

,and used over aga in .

In the particular case of a large concern it was found that

waste was being used at the rate of lb . per annum for

cleaning purposes . Most of this waste was used for wipin'

g uparound the machinery and engines on which a great deal of oilwas used . All of it was sent to the boi ler to be burned . As this

waste was heavy with oil,i t is safe to say that at the very least

2000 gal lons of Oil,together with the waste , were lost per annum .

"

Large quantit ies of cotton waste and sponge cloths are used

i n engineering workshops as well as in texti le mills for the pur

pose of cleaning machinery . \Vhen dirtied and fully saturated

VARIOUS NOTES . 265

with oil formerly this material was thrown away, but this day is

nearly past . In some cases the cloths are cleaned without charge

for the value of the oil . In others a slight charge is made .

A part icular machine for cleaning 0i cotton waste may be

described as fol lowsThe machine will hold from 50 to 60 lb . of waste . The oil

and grease are first l iquefied by steam and are then ej ected from

the waste by the action of centrifuga l force . The Oi l can be col

lected and filtered,and then both oil and waste may be ready for

using aga in . Such a machine can ei ther be driven by turbine or

bel t . When a turbine is used the exhaust steam is l ed into the

machine and serves to l iquefy the Oil. It is stated that the

pressure inside the machine does not exceed 25 lb . to 30 lb . persquare inch and a pressure gauge indicates the pressure , whilea safety valve prevents excess of pressure .

Loose Cotton Bleaching .

The preparation of loose cotton for the purpose of subsequentuse in the manufacture of absorbent cotton wadding for surgical

purposes,Of gun - cotton

,smokeless powder

,other explosives

,

a rt ificia l si lk,cellulose

,etc . ,

is a part icular branch of the bleaching

business,and has received a good deal of attention

,and var ious

patents have been taken out in this connexion . The purificationand bleaching call ed for in the preliminary preparation of loose

c otton intended for such purposes as the above may be aecom

plished by either the cold system or the warm system

Waste in American Mills .

The following brief extracts from a good paper given in America

a re worthy Of notice“ It is worth while to study the relative losses in waste in

regard to length and strength of fibre . Below are given some approximate figures relating to waste losses i n certai n Southern

mills . In one case out of every eleven bales of cotton enter ingthe mills

,one bal e was lost

,this est imate being based on the

working of many months,the mills making crashes and

damasks .

“ In the different departments it was found that nearly 5 per

c ent was lost in the blowing or picker- room,2 per cent in the card

266 COTTON WASTE .

room,1 per cent among the bobbins and fly

- frames,and 1 per

cent in the spinning- room .

In another Southern mill i t was stated there zwas an averagel oss of per cent , this mil l making heavy cloth for irubber belting and being very wel l governed .

“ The waste fibre from above mill goes i nto cheap i cloth suchas engine cloth and cheap glove cloth . I t is baled at the mil l andsold at the rate of from one to six cents per pound iaccording tograde .

“ In another firm the waste is used altogether in smaking of

weft , and i t has been found that after cleani ng andfgetting the

waste ready for use i t has been worth on an average seven cents

per pound .

FIG . 60.—Rol ler Card Showing D irect ion of Rotat ion of Princ ipal Organs.

Artificial Silk.

The grea t bulk of cotton w aste is certain to concern our

cot ton mills more i n the future , and further developments i n its

use will lead to a supply of trai ned " operatives .

It is contended that allvery large cotton mil ls and associations

should have a connex ion with artificial si lk mills,which Often offer

a paying channel for cotton waste .

“ Cotton is almost pure cel lulose to commence with , and no

fibre is equal to the cotton fibre f0 1' \making cellulose,which is the

bas is of artificial Silk,for whi ch there is a large demand practical ly

all over the world .

It is stated that three leading processes are employed in the

manufacture of artificia l si lk,these being the chardonnel

,or nitro

268 COTTON WASTE .

larger impurit ies passes through the bars of this grid and at the

same time the waste is combed to a certa in exten t . The combing

rol l er may have a speed of 1200 revolutions per minute and a

diameter of in . From this comber rol ler the waste is taken

by card taking Off rol ler having the very high speed of 3200 revolu

tions per minute,and the waste is driven upwards . The passage

of the cotton waste is at this point greatly helped by a current Of

a ir passing through the grate bars .

Fire R isk with Cotton Waste.

In certa in tests made abroad the following conclus ions Were

formed

That cotton wadding soaked with Oi l varnish wil l carbonizespontaneously in the interior at ordinary temperatures and willthen take fire on being opened out.

Waste cotton soaked with fatty oils takes fire or chars spontaneously in three to eight hours when heated to 82

° C . wi th exclu

s ion of externa l air. Clean cotton,soaked with twice its own

weight of fatty oi ls and heated to 100°

C. ,with a moderate admis

s ion of air from the outs ide,becomes hot inside in about an hour

to an extent depending upon the kind of oil employed,and often

g oing as far as spontaneous combustion . Cotton that has beensoaked with its own weight of rape oil or cotton - seed Oi l

,and

heated to 25°

C.,with exclus ion of external air

,generates

such a smal l amount Of heat by auto-oxidation,that the risk of

spontaneous ignition from this cause appears to be remote .

No danger Of spontaneous combustion has been recorded among

the enormous quantities of wool stored in the London Docks fromc argoes from the Cape and Austral ia

,al though packed in heavy

bales and stil l i n the grease . On the other hand , the Opinion seems

to prevai l that either raw cotton or cotton in the earl ier stages ofthe mill wil l tend to ignite spontaneously

,and cases of mill fires

have been attributed to this cause .

Shoddy has a high fire risk owing to suspicion from its containing cotton waste or other vegetable fibre on the one hand

,or

from softening oil on the other hand .

Danger of Flannelette.

Mr. Thompson reported as follows“ The di fference between ordinary cal ico or cloth and flannel

VARIOUS NOTES . 269

ette is that the latter has a nap which is produced upon it by

ra is ing one or both surfaces by passing it over revolving rol lers

provided with steel dents or teeth , which raise upon the surfacea nap which forms a better non- conducting material for heat than

the original cloth,and which therefore g ives a greater feeling of

warmth to the person using it than the unra ised cloth .

Experiments were made with various kinds Of flannelettenew and after wearing— to test the amount of fire danger .

“ Conclusions : When a flame is applied to the surface of a

flannelette the nap ign ites and spreads for a few inches only fromthe point at which the flame was applied

,and then becomes ex

tinguished,the fabrics being

i

cold in all these tests .

‘After drying and warming the fabrics there was a greater

tendency for the flame to run over the materia l,doing damage in

proportion as the flannelette was Old and torn,but hardly any if

the material was of a good class .

“ It would be advisable for chi ldren’

s dresses to be made of

woollen or a mixture of wool and cotton,or of flannelette which

has been treated to render i t non- inflammable .

There is,however

,probably no more burning danger with any

specific materia l after it has been ra ised than if the same were not

raised or converted into flannelette.

Candlewick.

The term candlewick yarn is not now necessarily confined to

yarn used for candlewick,but is often used to i ndicate cotton

waste yarns of very coarse counts which are probably so coarsethat they are numbered by the number Of yards which make one

ounce instead Of on the standard cotton bas is of so many hanks per

pound,which is not very conven ient for counts below 1

s cotton .

Bump yarn is another Specia l term appl ied to very coarse

condenser yarn , the term probably arising from the rebound or

concuss ion i n the loom when these yarns are used for wefts and

are beaten up by the reed .

Carpet Cops.

As elsewhere ful ly described ,such machines as the chapon

and the “can

”spinning frames build up the coarse condenser

yarns into cops having the dist inctive feature Of being without

bottom cones . These are sometimes termed “ carpet cops be

270 COTTON WASTE .

c ause of the ir use i n weav ing some sorts of carpets and cheap

qui lts .

Naturally,such a cop is far larger than any ordinary cotton weft

cop ,and i ndeed is often larger than an ordinary cotton twist cop .

The most dist inctive feature of all is that a cop of this descript ion when placed i n the shuttle of the loom is woven off or drawn

off from the base Of the GOP and the ins ide thereof and no shuttle

tongue or peg is used . The cop is often held i n the shuttle by

an elast ic strap or band of some kind,al though thin and almost

flat metal bands are sometimes used and are held in pos it i on by

smal l flat springs . Carpet COpS are probably more Often referred

to in the case Of COpS used for wefts for rugs , carpets and quilts

us i ng cotton waste or condenser yarns .

Occas io nal ly cops of cotton waste ~

yarns may be as much as

24 i n . diameter and 11 i n . long and even of larger dimensions .

FIG . 61.— D ivid ing Rol ler for Condenser Cards—with R ing -dofler.

When mule spun cops Of very coarse condenser yarns are

used i n the loom as weft it is Often necessary to providespecia l shuttle pegs to prevent the cops from breaking and

knocking-off ; some of these shuttle pegs are corkscrewed,and

others are fluted or corrugated for this purpose .

Condensed Yarn.

Some condensed yarn is sometimes spoken of as V igogne or

imitat ion V i gogne yarn , possibly because of its early use in FranceorBelgium to imitate yarns spun from the wool of the V icugna .

Sometimes condensed cotton yarn is described as imita t ion

yarn owing to its use in cheap goods which imitate woollen

ones .

The condenser system of cardi ng and spinning somewhat re

sembles the systems i n use for woollen yarns , and hence the occas ional use of the term wool -spun

272 COTTON WASTE .

j usted near the feeding mechanism , i n l ine with the burr cylinder ,and burrs and other impuri ties are thrown into the box

,from

which they are removed at regular intervals through the dav .

Some Of the burr waste may be of very little value , whereas other

burr waste may be re -worked by first carbonizing the waste ,dusting and re-working it in connection with wool into low grades

of yarn .

Burr waste,after cleaning it from its foreign and undesirable

matter , is made up of a combination of short and long fibre united

i n a body about one another . D isentanglement may be effected

by the steel toothed cylinders of a Garnett machine .

Card waste is the refuse of wool rema ining in ,and adhering

to,the teeth of the card clothing Of the set of carding engines ,

and dai ly removed from the clothing by stripping the cyl inder and

rollers of the card , probably by means of hand cards.

Hard waste may be produced in the Spinning,dressing

,and

weaving departments of the mill . In the Spinning,hard ends

are the result Of breakages , which require the at tendant to make

a yard or two of waste spun -yarn before the end is re-pieced .

In spooling,hard waste is made when the Operative pulls Off

severa l yards of yarn when a broken end has to be pieced .

In the weaving ,hard waste is caused by the accumulation

of weft on the bobbins,which instead of going in the cloth was

l eft on the bobb i ns , probably because the rema in ing yard or two

was not long enough to reach the width Of the fabric . Also

warp threads break and require re- tying with a l ittle waste

due thereto .

Rags,as produced in the mill

,are the clippings from the ends

of fabrics which are trimmed for the market,samples

,etc .

They may be re -manufactured by pass ing them first through

a rag-picker and i n turn through a Garnett machine or a shoddy

card .

Flocks are of two kinds , such as flocks produced from the

shear,and flocks produced by gigging or napping the goods . The

latter have to be cleaned of . any hard substance before going to theflock cutter .Sweepings are the refuse of the wool of the mill

,but may

contai n an amount of good fibre . They are treated to a dusting

process which liberates the dust and dirt,and may afterwards

be treated somewhat like flocks .

VARIOUS NOTES. 278

Indian Raw Cotton.

Short stapled cotton , such as poor American or Indian , withor without an admixture of cotton waste , is Often used in the

production of thick cheap yarns Spun on the ordinary cotton

spinning principle wi th roller draughting and possibly a redue

tion of drawing- frame and fly- frame use . Such yarns may be

spun either on the mule or the ring frame,and are much used

in the manufacture Of the cheaper sorts of floor coverings or

carpets after doubling into 3,4,5 or 6 cords ; 6

s or 8’

s single

yarn is common for th is purpose, and such yarn is often used as

the warp .

Carpets made from coarse cotton very often require the yarn

to be dyed,and therefore i t may be necessary to reel the yarn .

CHAPTER VIII .

SUMMARY OF COMPLE TE PLANT FOR PR ODUCING CLEANINGCLOTHS—WASHING THEM , OIL EXTRACT ION .

DUR ING the war the present writer had i ntimate Connection with

this l i ne of work , and the present en largement of his treatise on

cotton waste may very well be commenced with a description of

the processes i nvolved .

The wastes were chiefly in the nature of'

willowed fly strips,fly

from beneath condenser cards producing 7’

s to 10’

s,best soft

sweepings , cardroom clearers . After proper prel iminary treatment

the mixings were made and treated with soap water .

The breaker card had an automat ic feeder as elsewhere described,

and the cotton was transferred from breaker to finisher by Scotch or

cross feed . The finisher card resembled the breaker in its central

features .

The ring doffer condenser produced counts of condensed rovings

65 1 yds . to 110 yds . with ends equal to 1 per 2 i n . of doffer width .

The condenser bobbins were transferred to a roving frame as else

where described ,this merely twist ing the cotton ends sufficiently

and building the yarn into suitable double -coned bobbins .

This yarn served for both twist and weft . If for weft the

bobbins from the roving frame were placed in the creel of the sol id-Cop weft winding frame as elsewhere described in this treatise .

These sol id cops went immediately into the large loom shuttles .

If for warp,the roving bobbins were transferred to the sect ional

warping frame , adapted to the special purpose by certa in of the

mechanical deta i ls being discarded . This frame made warps 12 to

15 in . wide as required for the loom .

The looms were of the side- lever,plain weaving

,moderately

heavy kind . Ordinary cha in weighting and let off for the wood

warp beams,the empty beams being made of strong ti n which could

be readily sl ided on and off the fixed wood beam . Healds and reed

proportioned to the coarse nature and few threads per inch,of the

(274)

276 COTTON WASTE .

The thread is wound upon cones or cheeses containing a good

length of material and this is of course a tremendous advantage .

A good thread is advisable,poss ibly 2/30

s or thereabouts . The

driving shaft may extend beneath the machine , receiving its motion

either from underneath,or in any convenient manner that does not

interfere with the women or girl sewers . One bottom shaft properly

covered may serve for several sewing machines . In some respects

the whole business resembles the sewing work done in shirt -making

or other goods , but is rougher and is done on short cloth lengths .

In some cases a girl takes the cloth from the sewer,and turns the

cloth round ready for the opposi te selvedge . Such machines run

well if properly attended to,but the wri ter has seen some expensive

breakdowns,due to neglect ofOil ing and sufficiently frequent cleaning

away Of fluff and fibre . I t pays to use good oil for power overlock

machines,and the makers will supply this i f required . It is neces

sary to keep a supply of the sewing needles because these are l iable

to break however careful an operative may be , al though care , skill ,and proper needle setting reduce these to a minimum . The round

driving bel t for the machine,reaching up from bottom shaft as in

the case of a house sewing machine,should be much thicker and

s tronger than for an ordinary house machine,or belt-breaking wil l

become a nuisance and belt stretching wil l cause slack belts and

reduced speed Of machine . It is customary to make up thesefinished cloths into gross bundles ,

the cloths being usual ly sold at so

much per gross , and to be Within certain l imits of weight per gross .

Pre-war,such sewn

,plain -woven washing cloths could be had

at possibly 10s . 6d. per gross,but double that price and higher was

required before the end of the war, and this to customers for re

washing who general ly depend for cloth renewals upon the washing

firms,who may give price concess ions in connection with washing

contracts . In 1920 prices had agai n very greatly increased,as i n

all other cotton goods .

It may be said there are practical ly four distinct branches in thewashing Sponge cloth business

,even for moderately si zed firms .

These are carding and spinning,winding and weaving

,washing

and drying,oil extraction and refining. The carrying part of the

business is also quite important owing to the frequent fetching of

greasy cloths from the firms,and the return Of these cloths after

washing ; also the large quantities of cotton waste consumed in the

cloths .

COMPLETE PLANT FOR PRODUC ING CLEANING CLOTHS. 277

Washing , Sgneez ing and Drying .

Motor driving for this section of the work is not as economical lyapplicable as it is in the carding

, spinning , and weaving sections .

There are two important reasons for the use of steam— quiteapart from its merits or otherwise as a driving medium .

In the washing connect ion there is the important feature of

boi l ing-water and steam being wanted for washing purposes .

Afterwards there is the question of drying,which is Often done by

s team pipe and boiler heat ing .

For washing it is customary to employ very strongly built

washing becks fitted with gauges to register height Of water and

possibly steam pressure , although the pressure gauge at the boileris often sufficient for this purpose . The water needs some amount

of renewal frequent ly,and there must be the utmost convenience in

this respect .

The taking away Of the water from the becks and from the

squeezing machines is of stil l greater importance as it is from the

waste waters that the O il is recovered . The washing becks need

special ly constructed doors,that may be fastened and unfastened

quickly SO as to permit the cloths to be frequently put in and takenout again .

The water being sufficiently high in the heck,the washing soda

or soda ash having been put in,and a sufficient quantity of greasy

cloths , then the steam at poss ibly 60 lb . pressure may be turnedinto the becks unti l the water is boil ing . Possibly 15 mins . or

so may serve for the heck to be left revolving before the cloths arec lean enough . A good steam pressure

,sufficient soda ash or

o ther washing “ ingredient,the use of a good driving and reversing

motion on the beck all conduce to quick and satisfactory cleaning .

Some washing becks only revolve one way,but automatic re

v ersing motions are applied to most washing becks, and serve the

purpose of roll ing the cloths backwards and forwards in a manner

which possesses the double merit of giving better cleaning and also

preventing entanglements of the cloths .

Following upon washing,the cloths are subjected to powerful

squeezers . The squeezing machine in fundamental principles ismuch the same as for the clothes washing in any household , and

hydro- extractors are not so favoured for drying cleaning cloths as

squeezers on account Of the oil contai ned in the cloths and

278 COTTON WASTE .

danger of cloth entanglement . The Oi ly water squeezed from the

cloths runs i nto special channels which conduct it to the first settl ing

tank . The squeezers are power driven , the cloths are Often hand- fed

by spindle directly to the rollers , and the rollers are usual ly covered

with wool tops . The wri ter has seen other materials tried but wool

tops apparently give the best effect in thoroughly squeezing thecloths

,in durat ion ,

in taking the cloths through without scotching the

rol lers . The increased cost of such items as fuel,labour

,carting

,

soda ash and other cleaning and extracting materials,wool for the

rollers , has naturally added to the cost Of re-washing cloths,and

were it not that SO far a much appreciated price has been obtai ned

for the oil owing to the war effects , prices of washing would be

much further increased . The price of cleaning waste has kept pro

portionately high so that increased washing prices are not likely to

renew the use of waste for cleaning,i nstead of cleaning cloths— at

any ra te i n spinning mills .

Squeezers require to be power-driven,with a good driving belt

,

a reserve of driving power perchance a heavy feed of cloth is g iven

the wool requires to be i n good condit ion,a heavy pressure on the

rollers must be maintained,the best convenience for taking the

cloths away agai n,and a clear escape of the 0 i water .

Oil Recovering .

Oil recovered from the washing of greasy cleaning cloths hasgreatly increased in value as one of the effects of the war and the

continued trouble in such countries as Russia . Properly and

cleanly recovered and refined,the Oi l wil l serve for lubricating

purposes,especial ly for moderate Speeds . It has great value for

such purposes as soap manufacture,as the strain of soda ash left

i n the Oi l is as excellent in its way as the Oil for cleaning purposes .

At the beginning of the war about £6 or £7 per ton representedits value

,but at the end Of the war £18 per ton was obtained .

The recovery of the Oi l primarily depends upon the fundamental

fact that Oil and water wil l not mix . Because of this feature the

Oil and water are al lowed to run together from the wash -house to

the first settl ing tanks . After a day or two if left alone,and especi

al ly if aided by the addition of some such stuff as a l it tle vi triol

or other chemical , the oil is ready for skimming from the top of thetank and placing in a boil ing tank .

Boil ing for a few hours by steam injection,gives a further

280 COTTON WASTE .

Single Scutchers, wi th latt ice feed ,arranged for four laps , fitted

with fans for down -draught , swing frame pedal feed motion and

cone regulator,and lap arrangement for making laps for cards 40

i n . to 60 i n . on the wire .

Breaker Carding Engine, usual ly 48 in . on the wire , with ex

tended lattice feed table for two scutcher laps,two 2 in . feed rol lers

covered with inserted wire,one 2 in . roller under same covered

with leather fil l et,9 i n . taker- in with inserted wire

,50 in . cyl inder ,

seven rol lers, seven clearers

,one wood fancy with draught rol ler

under and over same,with 30 in . doffer

,fi tted with s ide drawing

for Scotch or cross feed .

Finishing Carding Engine, usual ly 48 in . on the wire , with

Scotch feed,two feed rollers covered with inserted wire , one roller

under and over for leather fil let,9 i n . taker- in covered with inserted

wire,50 i n . cylinder

,seven rollers

,seven clearers , one wood fancy

with draught roller under and over same,24 in . ring doffer fitted

with single rubber wood divider,fly

- comb condenser to take off from14 to 22 ends on to one bobbin

,according to the counts to be Spun .

The Bobbins made on the condensers are afterwards put into the

stands of the self-acting mule .

Self - acting Mules,for Spinning all kinds Of waste , made with

rim shaft paral lel to carriage or headstock ,as des ired

,and the

creels can be arranged for either condenser or roving bobbins .

E xperience has proved it does not pay to use too low a class Of

waste for the purpose intended in the production of cotton waste

yarns,or even in the production of batting . Almost the lowes t

grade of waste tha t can be used for even low counts is willowed flywhich may do for 1

s or 2’

s cotton counts or for batting of some

sorts .

Wi llowed fly has Often been mixed with linters to advantage forsome kinds Of work .

Experience and judgment in mixing different sorts of waste for

different purposes count equal ly in this class of work as i n propercotton spinning .

The fol lowing was tes may be used for cotton battingDust - room waste . Droppings from beneath the Opener and

scutcher beater bars ,very ful ly wil lowed . Licker in fly treated in

the same way. Strips from the cylinder,doffer

,and flats of ordin

ary cotton cards . Fly from the condenser or finisher cotton wastecard , which from mills spinning 8

s or 10’

s condenser yarns may

COMPLETE PLANT FOR PRODUCING CLEANING CLOTHS. 281

form quite an i tem on the market in some districts . Comberwaste

usual ly reckons as the best that gets into condenser spinnings .

The term Grabbots is applied in America to some dirty

cottons which - the gin discharges and are sometimes sold along with

the sweepings and pickings from the ginnery . Such wastes as

Grabbots,mill run linters

,factor’s samples and cotton pickings are

largely confined to the Uni ted States of America .

Napper waste consists of the fly that is teazed Off such goods

as cotton blankets and flannelettes in the raising or napping process ,and probably get mixed up with other wastes by one dealer or

another . Such waste possesses very l i ttle nature and may be more

used for batting than for cotton yarns and even then for softening

harsher waste .

L inters were developed during the war to a degree not deemed

worth while previously .

I t is a question of price and the high prices Of cotton and cotton

waste developed during the war,and yet Obtaining at the time of

writ ing,have led to the del int ing of ginned seeds to a very ful l

degree . Such second ginnings are termed linters

This waste again is more useful for such purposes as batt ing ,being used in a bleached condition for the insides Of batting .

Linters are l ighter in colour than many wastes and may be

occas ional ly used as part of a mixing to improve the colour .

Surgica l wadding or“ batting

”is often made from linters

which is short fibre obta ined by a del int ing or second ginning

process .

In E ngland such l inters may arrive in bales,and the cotton

needs preliminary Opening treatment by some such machine as the“ willow or else a Crighton opener .

The pieces of shell in linters are l ikely to give trouble if used for

such quilt ing wefts as 85 yds . unless there is excellent willowing .

At any rate this is the writer’

s personal experience .

E ngine Cleaning Waste.

E ngine waste, as i t is termed , may be obtai ned by breaking up

a lmost any kind of final Spun or fully twisted textile yarn,wel l

broken up by suitable machinery .

The proportionate amount of trade in this kind of waste is prob

ably less than formerly owing to the great extent to which sponge

c loths are used for cleaning . Some engineers Object to the plai n

282 COTTON WASTE .

woven re-washing harsher cloths,but most of them are on ly too

pleased to get the softer ones woven on the leno principle . These

latter are rather less dangerous because they wi l l tear more readily

if they get fast when cleaning running machinery . Their greatest

fault is difficulty in stringing and fastening together in the washing

and squeezing-out processes .

E ngine waste may be obtained from cop-bottoms,hand -waste

from reelers,Spinners

,doublers

,winders

,and weavers .

Sometimes i t is obtained from mixtures of different sorts of

hard waste such as double - thread,thrums or Si zing frame waste

,or

even fully twisted coloured yarn .

The machine employed for opening and breaking-up such hard

waste for use as cleaning wast e,resembles i n general appearance a

rol ler and clearer carding engine,but is very much more strongly

built . The cylinder is covered with hardened steel two - inch teeth .

The doffer is fitted wi th iron legs or bars into which are set steel

teeth . There may be three rol lers or workers , fitted with cork -Spur

steel teeth,set al ternately . The four strippers are covered with

steel fi llets . The feed - rol lers are made up of iron segments con

tain ing cast - in teeth . The feed - lattice consists of iron pieces held

together by leather belts. Calender rollers are used to the waste

at the del ivery .

lVadding .

A somewhat severe bleaching process is needed when cotton

waste or l inters is to be used as wadding for surgical purposes .

Processes may be included such as

Boi ling in a good solution of caustic soda with the addition ofa specia l solvent oil

,washing

,scouring with d i lute hydrochlor ic

acid , washing ,hypochlorite of soda treatment

,washing, scouring ,

drying . Final ly treated by some kind of opening machine which

loosens the fibres ready for the final treatment by the waddingcard .

A roller and clearer card may be used with a comparativelysimple del ivery arrangement .A drum is used at the delivery around which the del ivered fleece

is wound time after t ime until a suflicient thickness Of wadding is

obtained . The wadding is then cut across and stripped off. Insome cases a folding apparatus is used instead Of the fleece drum .

284 COTTON WASTE .

ormix together , and this is quite as important in its way for certai n

sorts Of goods from cotton waste as in the finer yarns . E gyptian

c otton as a Whole wil l bleach well,but different Shadings may be

obtai ned if we are not careful and the bleaching effect may come

out differently .

If white cotton waste is dyed to imitate brown Egyptian then it

is more or less spoi led for bleaching .

Comber waste of i tself has a tendency to make a soft yarn or a

soft wadding,New Uplands cotton makes a strong batting . Some

makers of wadding use a certai n proportion of ordinary Uplands

c otton to put a face on the “ batt ing

In the case of the ring-doffer condenser the author has seen

excessive breakage of ends owing to long fibres or hairs reaching

a cross the doffer or on the divider and touching adjacent rov ings .

Sorting Tables .

A practice which possesses some commendable features but

which is by no means general ly adopted,is employing long sorting

tables,with or without gridded portions .

If various sorts of rather low - grade wastes such as sweepings ,willowed fly

,are purchased it may pay to have these wastes placed

on the sorting tables and picked over for bits Of string, bits of metal ,portions of cotton very inferior

, or some very superior .

Wi l lowed fly is much used for low counts of condenser yarn ,

and sometimes waste dealers have what they term seconds ,and some of this the writer has found to conta in a good deal of

undesirable material,unfit for pii tting into any machine or process .

If for wadding,the best portions may be sorted out for the best

face cotton , whether i t be for natural colour or for bleaching .

Fire Protection.

Fire protection is much needed in the earl ier processes of a

cotton waste mill,whether i t be that wadding

,gun - cotton

,or con

denser yarns are required from the mill .Some machines are less l iable to cause fire than others , such as

the ordinary Oldham Wi l low,whose blunt teeth and manner of

their action render this machine as safe as any to commence with .

Any make of Hopper bale -breaker or Hopper feeder is good sincethe tumbl ing about of the cotton in the feed -box tends to l iberate

COMPLETE PLANT FOR PRODUCING CLEANING CLOTHS. 285

metal substances without fire risk . No parts of such a machine are

very dangerous in caus ing fire . Blade or knife -beaters or knife

cyl inders,or spiked cylinders having a good Speed

,are especially

dangerous .

I t is best for fans to Operate with a down draft in the blow- room ,

and all the dust and air to pass downwards into a cement - l ined

dust cellar . In some cases these cel lars are fitted with Sprinklers .

If more than one fan 18 used,each outlet Should be equipped with a

door which closes automatical ly when its own fan is stopped . This

is one preventive aga inst fire Spreading. Friction of parts,waste

lapping round rollers,quickly revolving spikes , or blades striking

against metal substances are all causes of fire .

Suitable passages with fire-proof doors should separate one room

from another. The cotton store or mixing room,the card room

,the

scutching room should be separate rooms .

Water buckets and hose pipes should be convenient , sprinklers

used if possible, and turn- over smal l fire extinguishers used .

Cotton store room,mixing room

,the more dangerous one of the

arly opening machines,and the card room Should be sufficiently

Separated in case of fire .

Unfortunately , cotton waste varies in length Of fibre,i n colour

and in genera l quality very cons iderably , and both care and skil l

are necessary to obtain correct mixings for the kind of work in

process .

Al l kinds of old machines have been adapted for the early treat

ment of cotton waste,but recent

experience has demonstrated two

or three leading facts in this connection .

In the first place,such machines as the Oldham Wi l low and the

cop-bottom machine hold distinctive pos itions unrival led in certain

respects .

In the second place,experience has proved the value and adapt

ibility of the Hopper ba le -breaker or cotton Hopper feeder to the

early treatment of some kinds of waste but not to others,owing to the

tendency for some wastes t o warp and string round the evenerroller and other parts .

In the third place , after waste has been given a thorough pre

l iminary treatment , ordinary cotton openers of one kind or anotherwill deal very effectively with the waste. Usual ly it is advisable torun about half a dozen COpS in with the laps to prevent lap- l icking

afterwards .

286 COTTON WASTE .

It is at l east as valuable in waste Spinning mills to make mixings

of the waste as i t is to make mixing s of raw cotton in the fine

spinning mill . Waste varies more in qual ity and type than any

kind of raw cotton .

Soap Water.

Previously we have dealt with the custom of treating cotton

waste with soap -water made from about 1 lb . of soft soap to about

1 gal lon of water. In some cases this is simply put on with a

degging can . In such cases the writer has known mixings to feel

quite wet after two or three days’

standing,and i t is better to mix

about Thursday or Friday and allow to stand until the Monday

following . Proper soaping of fluffy cotton waste makes i t easier of

control . There is some danger of fire if too much soap -water or

plai n water is added to a waste mixing, well covered in ,and left

untouched for severa l days .

I t is the writer’

s experience that a j ud icious application Of soap

water will give better work in some cases,and certainly wil l hold

the fluffy material together i n a better manner ; and of course i t

g ives a more sol id and heavier yarn .

When soap -water is used systematically,the bo il ing and mixing

tank may be fixed in a pos i tion sufliciently high up to obtain a

satisfactory flow to . the required position . A bal l -tap may control

the supply of water from mixing tank to using tank .

There are therefore two chief methods of applying soap-water :

(1) Sprinkl ing it upon the mixing as the latter is being made .

(2) Applying an automatic soaping appl iance to the del ivery of

such a machine as the Cop-bottom machine .

A third method Of applying the water at the feed part Of amachine , such as at a Hopper feed

,does not commend itself to the

present writer , as it is neither good for the working parts of the

machine,nor does it afford time for the equal penetrat ion and

distribution of the soap-water among the cotton waste . E ven when

only one kind Of mixing is being used it is advisable to have two

mixings , one being preparing and maturing when the other one isusing .

If more types Of mixing are to be used then more mixings willbe required .

In ordinary cotton Spinning there are now many mills i n whichthe various bales are placed around the bale -breaker

,and there is

288 COTTON WASTE .

feeding the cotton loose by hand at the feed - lattice of the card ,

at least overcomes the lap - l icking trouble,while it reduces fire

danger,is very suitable for using smal l quantities of certain kinds of

waste , and gives a chance of mixing .

In the preparation of wadding or batting inside portions ,cotton waste properly cleaned may quite conveniently be fed inabove manner to the carding engine and laps of cotton need not

necessarily ever be made . Outside portions of such products mayneed the more complete Opening or scutching treatment .

The Hopper feeder for cards is enhanced in value when veryshort waste or l inters are used because of the strong likel ihood of

such material being troublesome in giving lap l icking .

CHAPTER IX.

VARIOUS COTTON WASTE MACH INE S.

FIG . 62 il lustrates a machine made by Messrs . Tatham,

“ Fear

nought,

”to mix various kinds of soft cotton waste

,wool

,etc.

,and

to open comber waste .

This machine is useful for mixing,or blending and cleaning

various qual it ies of waste . It well opens comber waste from a

matted condit ion without damage to the staple by one passagethrough the machine .

Specifica tion — Hand feeder,two toothed feed rol lers . Cylinder

covered with hardwood lags fitted with forged cockheel teeth .

Seven rol lers fitted with forged cockheel teeth over cyl inder,and

driven from large Spur wheel on cyl inder shaft . Fan or winged

doffer for stripping the cylinder . Iron covers with l i fting motion

for same . Undercasings to cyl inder and fan or doffer,arranged to

draw out at the sides for facil ity i n cleaning . Cage and del ivery

lattice .

E xtras — Self-acting soaping machine attached to del ivery lattice .

Hopper feeder in l ieu of hand feeder .

Dimensions,Weights , Speed,

etc .,of Machine with Delivery Lattice

and Soap er.

Space Occupied .

Length. Width . Height. Diam. Width. Gross Net.in. ft. in. ft. in. ft. in. in. in. t s t s ft.

Fear 36 15 1 6 6g 6 11 20 x 6 160 64 53 310

Fearing 42 15 1 7 05 6 11 20 x 6 160 68 57 330

Fearless 48 15 1 7 6g 6 11 20 x 6 160 73 61 350

290 COTTON W'

ASTE

292 COTTON WASTE .

Strap ,driving pulley

on 3rd cylinder from

2nd cyl inder, 16 ft . 0 in .

x 4 i n . wide .

Or rope,

drivingpulley on 3rd cyl inderfrom 2nd cyl inder , 22 ft .

6 in . x 37;in . diameter .

Strap ,driving cross

Shaft from cylinder , 7 ft .

9 in . x 2712» in . wide .

Strap ,driving fan

shaft from cylinder , 8

ft . 3 i n . i n . wide .

Strap ,driving slow

motion shaft from cross

shaft , 12 ft . 3 in . x 1712

in . wide .

Strap , driving de

l ivery end from Side

shaft , 14 ft . 0 in . x 2 in .

wide .

Strap ,driving brush

of soaping apparatus

from cyli nder,11 ft . 6

in . x 17} i n . wide .

ROpe ,driving roller

of soaping apparatus

from top cage rol ler , 3

ft. 8 in. x %in . diameter .

4 -Cylinder Machine.

Floor space occupied ,

33 ft . 8 i n . x 6 ft . 3 in .

D riving pulleys on

1st and 3rd cyl inders ,

12 in . x 6 i n . wide .

Speed about 800 revolu

t ions per minute .

COTTON WASTE MACHINES. 293

Gross weight,about 180 cwt nett weight

,about 130 cwt .

Packed in 24 cases .

Measurement , about 850 cub . ft .

Nett Lengths and Breadths of Strapp ing , and Diameters and

Lengths of Ropes required.

Strap, driving countershaft from mainshaft,54 in . wide ,

length depending on height and posit ion of shaft .

Straps,driving pulleys on l st and 3rd cylinders from counter

shaft,5 in . wide

,length depending on height and. pos it ion of

shaft .

(2nd cylinder driven from 1st,and 4th cyli nder from 3rd

cylinder by strap or rope . )Strap , driving pul leys on 2nd cylinder from l st

,and 4th from

3rd,each 16 ft . 0 in . x 4 in . wide.

Or rope , driving pul leys on 2nd cyl inder from Ist,and 4th

from 3rd, each 22 ft . 6 i n . x 4 in . diameter .

Strap ,driving cross shaft from cyl inder , 7 ft . 9 in . x 24 in .

wide .

Strap , driving fan shaft from cylinder, 8 ft . 3 in . x 24 in .

wide .

Strap,driving slow motion Shaft from cross Shaft , 12 ft . 3 in .

x 14 in . wide .

Strap,driving delivery end from side Shaft

,14 ft . 0 i n . x 2 in .

w ide .

Strap,driving brush of soaping apparatus from cylinder

,11 ft .

6 in . x 14 in . wide .

Rope,driving rol ler of soaping apparatus from top cage rol ler,

3 ft . 8 in . x 4 i n . diameter .

Roving Waste Opener.

Messrs . Brooke Doxey have added a hopper feeder to

their roving waste Opener as described below and referring to

figs . 64 and 65 .

Hopper Feeder for Roving Waste Opener.

The ordinary type of hopper feeder used for dea l ing with loose

c otton from the bale Opener or mixing is quite unsuitable for

deal ing effect ively with roving waste , because the latter, being

294 COTTON WASTE .

generally in long lengths , has a tendency to become entangled

with and to choke the revolving parts of the ordinary strippingarrangement ; the improved roving waste hopper feed has beendesigned to overcome this defect . The chief feature of the machine

is the stripping comb C ,having an el l iptical movement D ,

at the

del ivery Side of the Spiked latt ice B ; any long strands of rovingnot sufficiently detached by the raking act ion of this stripping

comb are fed back on to the Spiked latt ice by the special revolvingclearing shaft A .

296 COTTON WASTE .

The au tomat ic feeding of rovings to roving waste Opener

presents the following advantages :

1.I t prevents over - feeding

,with its consequent l iability to

choke the feed rol ler,and damage to taker - in and spiked cylinder.

2.The spiked latt ice and the stripping combs loosen or dis

en tang le the smal l masses of roving to such an extent that the

subsequent action of the taker-in and spiked cylinder of the roving

opener gives a much better and more regular result than can be

obta ined with any hand feeding. The amount of roving pass ing

through the roving opener in an unopened state is thus reduced to

a minimum ,as is at once evident from a comparison of the results

from the same roving opener fed by hand and afterwards fed by

our improved automat ic hopper feeder.

3 . A further consequence of the preparatory Opening In the

hopper feeder is the considerable increase in the productive capacity

of the roving waste Opener .

4 . The use of this automatic feeder material ly reduces the

quantity of hard substances finding their way to the roving opener

and damaging taker-ih and cyl inder .

5 . The capacity of the hopper bin’

is so much in excess of thefeed lattice of the roving Opener that the time and skill required to

e ffectively a ttend to the roving Opener are greatly reduced .

The Cri ghton or vertical opener is made by all l eading cotton

machine makers. I t is celebrated for giving efficient Opening and

cleaning either to cotton or soft cotton waste .

Messrs. Dobson and Barlow’

s Vertical Beater Opener : Specialties

and Improvements .

These machines are made xwith either one or two beaters,as

required,and in the lat ter casex the beaters are arranged to be

worked together or separately . They are fitted up with improved

g rids , and the opening and cleaning power of the machine is most

e ffective . The delivery lattice and fan are driven by bands .

E ach beater consis ts of a vertical shaft upon which are mounteds even circular plates ,

of different diameters,with hard steel knives

riveted to them . The Whole being perfectly balanced .

The beater lshaft footsteps are self - lubricating, and have large

o il chambers .

Al l gearing is made s trong and well guarded .

In case s where the countershaft would be too high to drive by

COTTON WASTE MACHINES. 297

hal f twisted strap they apply , when desired , an improved balanced

rope driving arrangement . The pull of the rope is the same on

each s ide of the shaft,so that frict ion and wear on the bearings

are reduced to a minimum .

The machine is made to be fed by the porcupine Opener with

latt ice feed . The hopper feeder can be appl ied to the porcupine

Opener if des ired . The “ Simplex ”hOpper feeder can also be

appl ied to feed the vertica l Opener wi thout the porcupine Opener

i f desired ; where possible , the firm recommend the porcupine

opener to be applied .

They also combine the above machine with s ingle scutcher and

lap part when required .

The machine has been well designed , is built from extra strong

p atterns , and is capable of working at the highest poss ible Speed

without vibration .

The machine shown (Fig . 66) contains the most recent devicein beater bars , i.e. arranging such bars as at D for the porcupine

cylinder to take up all the lower half of the beater path . The

second quarter circle or ascending quarter is used as well as the

first or descending quarter .

Balanced ROpe Driving .

The balanced rope driving is applied by different machinists butfig . 67 shows Messrs . Platt Bros .

arrangement .Fig . 67 is an enlarged view showing method of driving cylinder

in Crighton Opener,by means of balanced rope driving .

This system is now preferred to the old method of driving bys trap , as the pul l on the cylinder Shaft is equal ly divided ,

whereas

by the old system it was all on one side .

The balanced rope driving also affords greater facil ity for the

placement of the Opener in the room,as its Situation is not neces

s arily governed by the posit ion of the driving shaft,as is the case

when driven by strap,which system is now obsolete .

Production up to lb . per week of 554 hours .

Floor space occupied opener,10 ft . 4 in . x 5 ft . 94 in . feeder

,

11 ft . 5 in . x 6 ft . 6 in .

Total , 21 ft . 9 in . x 7 ft . 24 i n .

Driving pulley (if for strap driving ) , 12 in . x 6 in . wide . Speed,

about 1100 revs. per min .

298 COTTON WASTE .

Driving pulley (if balanced rope driving) , 12 in . diameter , grooves.

for g i n .diameter rope . Speed

,about 1100 revs . per min .

D riving pul ley on feeder , 12 in . x in . x 4 in . wide . Speed,

about 900 revs . per min .

Power required ,about 6 I .H.P.

Gross weight , about 112 cwt nett weight about 77 cwt .

Packed in twenty - one cases .

Measurement , about 500 cub . ft .

Nett Lengths and Breadths of Strapping , and Diameters and

Lengths of Ropes Required.

Strap,driving cyl inder in opener

,from countershaft , 5 in . wide ;

l ength depending on height and posit ion of Shaft .

3 00 COTTON WASTE .

been cons idered almost imposs ibl e to perform this work with the

requi site speed and production without injuring the staple of the

fibre worked . In Kirschner’

s improved toothed beater these points

have been careful ly cons idered ,and the result would seem to prove

that the fears as to injury to the fibre were il l founded .

SECTION

FIG . 68.—Kirschner Beater.

The heater is arranged with three bars carrying lags,in which

are placed tempered steel teeth,the length and fineness of which

vary according to the work to be accompl ished .

It can be readily applied to all existing machines .

FIG . 69 .

— Kirschner Beater.

The heater itself forms a powerful fan,which has the advantage

of driving the dirt and Shell through the bars,while the cotton

,

being in a more separated condit ion,is so much l ighter that the

cages are well and equal ly covered . At the same time the fan of

the machine requires running at l ess speed on account of the curren tof air caused by the beater itself .

COTTON WASTE MACHINES. 301

The advantages claimed are as followBetter cleaning properties .

Lap more homogeneous and regular .

Lap always well made,cylindrical

,and with good edges .

Lap never sticking or felting behind the cards .

Less grinding of cards,on account of cotton being more open

,

paral lel and clean,therefore less wear on the points of the wire .

The Hopper Feeder for Carding Engines.

To a person accustomed only to the hopper feeder as used on.

cotton openers,the feeder applied to some cotton waste cards— and

to woollen cards— affords a very interesting study .

The manner of regulating and weighing the feed of cotton,the

stroking down'

of the cotton on the card feed lattice,the automati c

Opening and closing of the balanced scales,the method of driving

and connecting to the carding engine , are all very interesting .

The machine , as applied to the card ,would be total ly unsuitabl e

for the Opener owing to l imits of production and other features ,while the opener hopper would be equal ly inappropriate to the

l imited productions and absolute weighing of the cotton required

on the carding engine .

The fundamental principles of these hOpper feeders are the

same , but the details are distinctly different .

The distinctive features of the automat ic feeder wil l be gathered

from the description given below .

The ordinary evener and stripper rol lers of the hopper for a

cotton Opener are replaced in each case by strong oscillating comb

bars or heater blades . There is much the usual type of feed -box,

but it usual ly contains a withdrawable grid bottom which al lows a.

smal l proportion of undesirable matter to fal l out .

The lifting apron is much after the well -known type .

The oscillating comb at the top Operates very effectively in

stroking back unopened or over - large portions of cotton waste . The

l imited production required from a card 90 to 150 lb . per day,en

ables this comb to do the work effectively without using the more

expensive , heavier , and more cumbersome evener rol ler of the

ordinary cotton opener .

A similar comb Operated by crank or cam strips the waste from

302 COTTON WASTE .

the other Side of the Spiked l i ft ing lat tice and del ivers this cotton

into the weighing pan .

The usual method is to arrange the weighing pans or scal e with

two Wings of sheet steel or strong tin stretching across the width

of the machine and capable of closing up at the bottom until sufl‘i

cient cotton is held ,then the weight of cotton overcomes a finely

adjustable balance weight so that the wings open out at the bottom

and drop the weighed cotton upon the feed lattice of the card be

neath the balance . The balance weights are readily adjustable ,both to a coarse or fine degree

,so as to maintain the correct counts

of delivered cotton from the card . The balance is susta ined upon

s teel knife edges . The true principle of balance weighing is oh

served,and the cotton is given to the scales in slow proportions as

carefully as in the best hand -weighing ,and when the correct weight

is reached the sl ight descent of the weighing pan l iberates a smal l

cat ch point , sets In motion a lever connexion which disconnectsthe driving bel t so that the l ifting apron and delivery of cotton are

suspended for the moment . I t must be particularly noticed that

del ivery of the cotton into the weighing pan may be slower or

quicker,regular or irregular

,without affecting the vital principle of

absolute weighing and regular giving of the Cotton to the feed lattice

of the card . The whole operat ion is automatical ly restarted as re

quired .

There are differen t makers of hopper feeders for cotton waste

carding engines such as by the Automatic Feed Co.,Messrs . Asa

Lees Co. ,andHaigh

s Machine .

In any case the sequence of operatia is as follows

(a) The cotton waste is placed in hopper probably by hand .

If almost fil led by suitable materia l for good working the feed might

possibly be neglected for 30 mins . or so,but the time is variable .

The manner of weighing Should prevent variable height of cottonin feed -box from giving uneven work as i t does sometimes in a

cotton opener .

(b) The vertical spiked lifting lattice is always taking the fibrousmaterial upwards .

(c) The operation of the evener comb or bar tends to comb out

and l oosen the materia l,the act ion being favoured by the moderate

product ion of a card ; also the combing bar levels the cotton wastenicely on the Spiked latti ce .

(d) The combing bar on the del ivery Side does l i ttle more than

304 COTTON WASTE .

Driving .

The driving of such an automat i c feeder may be divided i ntotwo parts , the one part from the card cyl i nder itself d irectly

,and

the other from the feed - rol ler of the card .

In one case,for example

,a belt was used to drive from card

cylinder to the bottom Shaft of the hopper and reaching right acrossthat machine to the other s ide .

On this cross -shaft wa s fixed a pulley from which a top shaft

was driven by belt , and from the top Shaft the driving was by wheelsto the spiked l ifting lattice . On Opposite s ide of this shaft the drivewas to the stripping comb or bar.

By means of cams or eccentrics the bottom pulley shaft wasmade to drive the evener bar, and a lso the press bar on the feedlattice .

The feed lattice of the card was driven by wheels from the feedrol ler and extended beneath the pan and dely of the hopper .

The push -board on the feed latt ice was driven by a strongSprocket chai n and wheels Operating a crank whose rotat ion causedthe to - and- fro movement of push - board .

The necessary exact relat ion or t iming of push-board movement

and tripping or Opening of weighing scales was obta i ned by twocams

,so that when the push -board was receding from feed rol ler

the first cam tripped Open the weigh -door and then the proper

weight re-closed the door and l i fted the scal e ready for next portion

of cotton .

Mal leable iron thin long fingers were used so as to obtai n the

requ i s ite l ightness,s trength

,and shape for exact ruling of clutch

gear for automatic start ing and stopping of parts .

Alteration of Counts of Yarn .

In such cases of hopper feeders the counts may be altered in two

or three ways . Say we desire to be coarser or thicker

1. Heavier scale weights .

2. Larger side - shaft change bevel to drive parts of feeding

and del ivery hopper more quickly such as for example Opening the

pan i n a shorter length of t ime .

Note — Setting evener bar further away would fil l the scale more

quickly but would not make it Open more quickly .

3 . A change sprocket wheel could be used to get a qu icker speed

of push-board and trip .

CONDENSERS. 305

306 COTTON WASTE .

A hopper feeder of the kind j ust described may be readily appl ied

to almost any make of card,and usual ly contains four good adjust

able feet which are adaptable to almost any kind of floor .Cams and eccentrics , and one crank

,are much in evidence to

FIG . 19.

No. 5 Pattern Leather Tape Condenser.

FIG . 71.

give oscillat ion of parts instead of rotation to such parts as evener

bar,stripping bar, push-board

,press -bar, to open the cotton scale

,

and to operate the automatic clutch .

I t is the writer’

s experience that a very smal l alteration of the

FIG . 20 .

No. 3 11 Pattern Leather Tape Condenser.

FIG 71A.

pan weight wil l make a dist i nct difference in the counts of yarn

when the hopper is used as the initial part of a combined breakerand finisher card arrangement , having a Scotch feed

, or a broadband feed to connect the two cards .

308 COTTON WASTE .

Sub-figure 18 is given as an improvement on No . 17.

Sub-figure 19 is preferable for some classes of waste . Each

leather tape serves for two threads , and there is no crossing of loaded

and empty tapes .

Sub-figure 20 represents four tiers of rubbing leathers and four

condenser bobbins , and permits a great number of threads to be

taken off. I t is possible to have six tiers and bobb ins .

CHAPTER X .

CARD ING OF COTTON WASTE .

Stripp ing and Grinding .

STR IPPING upon an ordinary revolving flat card is a comparatively

frequent and easy operation . For the short hours just adopted itis becoming the custom to strip all round two

,or two and a

hal f t imes per day, i n Bolton for example , twice per day being agreedupon as the bas is and extra strippings to be paid for . Some firms

want to strip cylinder three times and doffer once,and to count this

as equal to two cylinders and two doffers the Operatives rej ect thisidea at present unless the third cyl inder round is pa id for extra .

The flats are of course automatically and continuously stripped,and

this kind of device has now increased in value owing to higherwages

and Shorter hours . About fiVe minutes or so may cover all a flat

card needs to be stopped for a thorough stripping .

The problem Is entirely different on a roller and clearer card for

cotton waste . The rol lers and clearers can neither be str ipped nor

ground with the machine working,nor properly at the card at all,

but must be removed from the card and taken away to a special

grinding frame as elsewhere shown in this treatise .

The grinding roller may be covered with 40’

s emery,but it should

be understood that 40’

s emery for waste card grind ing is often very

much coarser grain than 40’

s as used for ordinary cotton spinning .

The writer has known fine emery to come Off all over the place in

powdery form when used for waste cards .

It has become a more or less established practice for waste mil ls

to have these large diameter grinding rollers removed to shops which

Special ize in recovering with emery w ith all apparatus at their own

works .

Sol id emery is preferred by many for this purpose , although

fi l let emery is avai lable and meets with approval in some cases .

Not only is spiral filleting more or l ess applied but also sometimes

rings of fil let,a good cutting edge being obtained from the latter .

(309 )

310 COTTON WASTE .

When rollers and clearers are put on the grinding frame it is as

tonishing what a lot of fibre,dust , and dirt are cleaned out of the

teeth,apart from the re- Sharpen ing of the teeth . Often the time

for a rol ler or clearer allowed to remain on the machine is insuffi

cient to do anything but give a cleaning effect . Twenty minutes or

so will , however , make a difference when the Operation is repeated

possibly once per week , but times vary .

The pedestals for holding the rol lers and clearers are readily

adjustable by hand wheels . Frames may be easi ly put down in anysuitable position .

The writer has seen a great deal of trouble caused by usingcotton counts of filleting or card wire used for cotton waste cards

a device sometimes resorted to for the saving of first cost in using

second-hand wire . Such wire chokes up with dirt and fibre com

paratively soon,and results in very poor carding . E special ly are

the doffers l iable to choke and clog full of refuse in any such cases,

and i t easily becomes very difficul t indeed to get a condenser ring

doffer to work reasonably well under such conditions .

When grinding through , the cyl inder and doffer may need

a good prel iminary cleaning with hand strickles,the ordinary

stripping brushes being often insufficient to give the requisi te effect .

Often it is found necessary to give the doffers a kind Of hand

strickl ing during the daytime in.

order to get the condenser to

properly work,and in very dirty work it may be advisable to do

this also for the breaker card in order to get the Scotch feed to

work properly .

A good part of a day may be occupied in a thorough grindingand cleaning of a pai r of cotton waste cards

,and a good deal of the

work is of a two-handed character .

Cases have been known in which a bristl e stripping brush has

been kept continual ly running over the doffer of a cotton waste card ,

but such devices should be left for Special occasions .

Anyone who has worked cards operating cotton waste of the

lower qual ities will real ise the advantage of the customary practice

of having baywood covers over all the card tops,such covers en

circling the ends oi the rollers and clearers very fully .

Long grinding roll ers are often preferred for cotton waste cards ,the Slower Operation and finer work of the Horsfal l grinders notbeing appreciated the same on these cards as i n ordinary cottonSpinning .

312 COTTON WASTE .

cyl inder by their own brackets,so that differences in the wire clothing

alone condemn mixing of posit ions . Neither are bearings always justexactly right for any, only their own rollers or clearers .

Proper rol ler and clearer stands to hold a complete set should

be kept adjacent to the grinding roller,and the nearer the latter is

to a central position the better,so long as adequate provision is

made for dust removal .Automatic stripping motions

,front or stripping door locking

motions,anddust removing during stripping , have scarcely the same

Significance on rol ler and clearer cards as on revolving flats .

Care should be exercised ,i n grinding the condenser ring-doffers

,

that the leather rings are not unduly roughened ,these being

natural ly ground down by the same roller and the same proportionas the wire . The Horsfal l traverse is not a good thing for these

leather rings . The ordinary methods of driving the grinding

rol lers apply to these cards as to flat cards .

Some carders make smal l one hand stri ckles from ordinary card

wire,and have these applied at once to the doffer when ends are

breaking over-much . It is surprising what a lot of dirt wil l be

immediately fetched out by one of the smal l strickles .

Breakage of E nds .

Setting the fancy rol lers sl ightly deeper,adjusting the condenser

for tension Of rovings , and re - sharpening,thorough clean ing

,

Speeding up,or re - setting the height of doffer comb

,are often

remedies for excessive end breakage .

For a condenser it is almost more important to have an efficientdoffer comb than even for ordinary cotton spinning . Owing to the

discontinuance of the rol ler and clearer card for ordinary cottonSpinning , very many such cards during the period 1896 - 1918 wereconverted to condenser Spinning

,and it was regularly found neces

sary to get a complete new doffer comb and comb -box for the

condenser , while the old rig-out would work all right for thebreaker .

The ord inary transference of fibre from cyl inder to doffer and

from doffer by the comb is by no means a perfect action,but the

short fibre used in waste spinn ing magnifies any such imperfect ions .

In connexion with grinding,the operations of removing and

re-applying the driving chai ns for the rol lers,and the endless belts

for the clearers need to be done with celerity and accuracy . There

CARDING or COTTON WASTE . 313

are v arious methods in use for wrapping the endless clearer belts

properly round all the pulleys , and a tyro may find some l it tle

trouble i n this work .

Scotch Feed Connexion.

The writer deems it advisable to note a few points touchingthe Scotch feed

,obtained from his own personal experience .

The Scotch feed or lattice roper must be correctly proport ioned

in speed as between the breaker and finisher cards , to take up exactly from the breaker and del iver exactly to the finisher . This isnot always a connexion to be treated carelessly .

In a case of bad edges made at the fin isher and giving bad

side ends at the condenser,a remedy was provided by getting a

more exact and uniform width of cotton Spread from Scotch feeder

traverse motion upon the finisher feed lattice . This was done by

putting more l inks in the back chai n .

In one case the finisher had to be continual ly pushed by tight

belt,etc .

,because the breaker more than kept up with finisher in giving

it cotton,and yet it was peculiar that too much overlap was given of

the narrow waste ribbon on the finisher lattice,even to the point of

briilding up too vertical ly and tumbling over .

The feed wheel at finisher was speeded up 19 to 22.

In one example a correct working proportion between breaker

and finisher.

was obtained by applying a slightly larger diameter

driving pulley for breaker only .

Let it be noted that altering the feed -bevel at breaker to be

larger would give a heavier ribbon of cotton to the finisher , other

things being equal .

I f a larger feed - bevel alone were applied to finisher i t thins the

amount of cotton on feed latt ice of finisher .

The amount of overlap needs to be carefully regulated at the

finisher feed,as wel l as the counts of condenser roving .

A method of test ing counts at a condenser card,is to unrol l

about 2 or 3 yds. or so from all the rovings which compose a Con

denser bobbin ,to rol l these up into a loose rope form

,careful ly

cut off i n yard lengths by scissors or other means and weigh in

usual manner .

314 COTTON WASTE .

This Should be done at reasonable intervals and the weighings

recorded .

The counts trouble is very considerable in a good deal of con

denser spinning,percentages of variation being more than many

imagine . The redeeming feature is that the full nature of the yarn

and its use as weft help to reduce the evil effect i n the cloth . In

some kinds of qui ltings for example very uneven weft Shows up

quite dist inctly and unfavourably when the quilt is held up to the

l ight .

If the weft is very uneven or if it be persistently too light or

heavy in counts,it may seriously affect the weight of cloth for given

dimens ions .

Assuming a condenser bobbin to contain 30 ends i t wi l l be seen

that 1 yd . represents in the rope of yard , 30 i ndividual yards of

sl iver , each one of which goes to an i ndividual COp or bobbin at the

next process .

Always of course there is the usual method of testing counts bytaking a number of yards off at the wrap reel , which may be either

the 1 yd . wrap block to test yards per ounce in the “ bump ” trade ,or the 14 yds . circumference of wrap reel for the finer counts of

cotton waste yarns .

A different s ize of barrow change at either breaker or finisher

must be noted in its effect upon the balance of one card keepingup with the other

,as well as i n its effect on production .

An important change wheel on a condenser card is one that

drives the condenser bobbin and certai n other connexions . Many

cases have occurred i n which excessive breakage of condenser

rovings has been traced to the Speed of condenser bobbin being too

great , and an al tera tion in this wheel has promptly effected a

remedy . This change wheel is a spur wheel ranging from 40 to

48 teeth or so.

I t is a feature worth knowing that an al teration in counts by

means of s ide - Shaft bevels or different weight of feed often affects

the tension of the rovings at the condenser .

I t must also be understood that al tering the condenser change

wheel also alters the counts.

Good round rovings,sufficiently strong yet soft

,and freedom

from breakage , are encouraged by careful rubbing of condenserrubbers , with castor oil, every second or third n ight , after stopping .

3 16 COTTON WASTE .

Two ropes,driving grinding rol l ers over cyl inder from Slow

motions, 10 ft . 0 i n . x45

4i n . diameter .

TWO rOpeS , driving gri nding rollers over doffers from Slow

motions , 6 ft . 3 in . x1—56i n . diameter .

Ropes for Stripping Purposes.

One rOpe , driving stripping rol ler over cyl inder from loose

pulley , 7 ft . 9 i n . x 454i n . diameter .

One rope , driving stripping roller over doffer from loose pulley

9 ft . 10 i n . x 45

4in . diameter .

The Revolving Flat Card for Cotton Waste.

The’

question of the suitabil ity of the revolving flat card for thetreatment of cotton waste has Often arisen , and i t is one the present

writer has considered .

It does not appear likely that the revolving flat card wil l super

s ede the roller and clearer for cotton waste , although it has done so,

a lmost absolutely,for ordinary cotton . For Short material and

mixed fibres it certainly appears yet advantageous to prefer the

roller and clearer .

The Specific obj ect,for example

,of the flats being made to

revolve,is that they Shal l slowly but continual ly and automatical ly

be bringing out short fibre and impurities to the front of the card for

automatic stripping .

In the treatment of cotton waste,i t may easi ly happen that the

flats shal l extract fibre that is required to stop in as part of the

finished product .

Flats on American cotton may have a Speed varying from 1 in .

to 24 in . per minute,the faster speeds taking out more waste and

g iving better yarn .

If , for example , we did use the revolving flat for cotton waste we

might reduce the flats speed below the 1 i n . per minute specifiedabove . Yet some g ive extra speed for this purpose .

Yet agai n there are spaces between the flats which wil l probablyal low too much dust and fibre to pass into the room

,whereas the

top of the card is fully encased in a rol ler and clearer card .

The rollers and clearers are very well suited to the treatmentof short and mixed fibres and usual ly are supported in bearingswhich permit them to jump up harmlessly i f pieces of unopened

CARDING OF COTTON WASTE . 317

cotton,or any hard materials

,pass the licker in and reach the rol lers

and clearers . The writer has heard the rollers jump at times through

i nsufficiently Opened cotton entering the machine,to an extent

which would certai nly cause revolving flats to be broken Off and

driven into the room,because Of thei r comparatively close setting

and the unyield ing nature Of their bearing surfaces .

The Fancy Roller.

With rol ler and clearer cards for cotton waste it is a necessarycustom to employ a fancy roller at the front or delivery side of everycylinder— whether breaker or finisher . The Obj ect Of the “ fancy

FIG. 72.

is to help to entice out of the cyl inder teeth the cotton waste fibrewhich is too short and soft for the ordinary doffer to adequately

clean from the cyl inder without some such aid.

The fancy is made to revolve very quickly by using largediameter rope driving pull eys on the cyl inder , helped by intermediatespeed rope pulleys which increase the speed .

The teeth of the fancy are set usually to just touch those of thecyl inder

,or i n some cases even to penetrate for T

1

? in . or so.

By this close setting,and by having a higher surface speed than

the cylinder , the necessary raisi ng Of the fibres is Obtai ned . The

back Of the long incl ined teeth Of the fancy must come against the

cylinder wire,or otherwise the fancy would take the fibre round

itsel f which is undesirable .

COTTON \VASTE .

D iagonal Broad Band Delivery and Feeder.

An arrangement Of Messrs . Platt Bros . is shown in fig. 72.

This is an alternative arrangement to the Scotch feeder,and

produces a broader sl iver,which is deposited on the feeding lattice

and presented to the feed rollers at an i ncreased angle . i.e . with the

fibres more end -wise .

The carding engines may be placed either i n l ine or side by side ,as preferred . If in l ine

,it is necessary for the feeding lattice to be

extended over the del ivery apparatus,as shown .

Combined Driving for Feeders , Doffers , and Condensers of Carding Engines with Scotch Feed.

When the breaker and finisher carding eng ines are placed in l ine ,and the floor is suitably constructed , the feeders and doffers Of both

machines,as also the condenser , may be connected with each other

by shafts and gearing , and driven by one belt from the cylinder shaft

Of the finisher carding engines . This arrangement ensures the pro

portional speeds for the driven parts being maintained,and conse

quently the total draft is free from the variations that are l iable to

occur when the ordinary system Of i ndependent drives is i n use.

With the main connecting shaft placed below the floor,there is no

blocking Of passages .

The Roving Frame for Waste Sp inning .

The bobbin and flyframe as used in ordinary cotton spinn ing

possesses distinct features i n regard to the production Of yarns from

cotton waste . For the economical use Of the roving frame in thisconnexion it is necessary to know the comparative merits and

demerits Of the machine,the exact nature Of the work to be produced

,

and productive capacity in regard to subsequent machines .

The writer has had pract ical experience in using the roving

frame for the production Of condenser yarns .

A roving frame Of 8 in . l ift was stripped Of its ordinary creel andfitted up with condenser drums

,the three lines Of bottom rollers

being left i n their places but only one l ine Of top rol lers . The con !

denser drums were driven from the back draft rol ler,the speeds

bei ng careful ly proportioned .

NO roller draft or carriage draft existed in the machine,and

320 COTTON WASTE .

must be geared ,and the frame worked much the same as for

ordinary cotton spinning . Wi thout di fferential a drag string should

wrap round the bevel .

The roving frame is Often used in mills on very low counts

say, i n producing the very thick soft wefts for Leno sponge cloths

or similar types Of weaves ,i n which warp yarns Of possibly 20

s are

used along with soft weft yarns Of cotton waste , only about 50 yds .

per ounce,i n counts . The condenser yarn may be about 100 yds .

per ounce more or less as required— but two Of these are twisted

together in the roving frame,being guided into the proper traverse

space . Other machines are used for this purpose , but the roving

frame is well suited to the very thick and very soft nature Of this

class Of work .

Ordinary clean ing cloths for cotton or other mills in which thec loths are required to be Often re-washed are usual ly made fromcomparat ively hard yarns 65 to 120 yds . per ounce

,which

may actuallv be Of equal counts both for twist and weft or either

one may be somewhat finer than the other . A coarse weft means

frequent re- shuttl ing,in spite Of the use of sol id wound cops and

large shuttles . The coarse weft Of course means increased produc

tion from the loom owing to fewer picks Of weft per inch being requi red . Coarse twist means warps that are soon finished

,and it is

no joke when a beam comes empty every 30 hours or so,a result

coming inside the present writer’

s personal experience .

Very expert work is wanted in tying up such warps or there wil l

be considerable loss in production this way.

Sponge cloths produced on the Leno or gauze prinmple are

beautifully soft and absorbent,but are bad for machine washing as

loose ends entangle and the cloths string round and fasten to each

other in the washing becks .

For re-washing by machinery in order to Obtai n the double

benefit Of (1) re-use of the cloths, (2) extraction or recovery Of the

Oil for such purposes as soap—boil ing,the harder woven

,less good

looking cloths Of nearly equal twist and weft,are far the better .

An ordinary side - l ever pick loom wil l serve to weave such

cloths , but the softer kinds on the gauze principle require a muchmore expensive loom .

In the roving frame used for spinning condenser yarns,we

cannot produce the same ha iry,ful l thread as from the mule

,the

tendency being to destroy this feature i n the flyframe,and to

enhance the same on the condenser mule . If the roving frame is

CARDING OF COTTON WASTE . 32]

used as a doubler instead Of a spinner the foregoing remark scarcely

applies .

The ordinary lifter change wheel may be used to regulate the

closeness Of the coils on the bobbins , this wheel being probably re

quired to be Of as large a range in si ze as can be Obtained . The

shaper or builder wheel will, per contra

,need to be Of very smal l

si ze when 65 to 110 yds. per ounce are wanted,i n order to

give a rapid rate Of let Off to the cone drum belt , and the short

rack for coning the bobbins .

Once round the presser will probably be sufficient in forming

the bobbins . The twis t wheel needs to be Of the smal lest size

usual ly obtainable,owing to the frame requiring to put i n yarn

twist instead Of roving twist .For re-washing sponge cloths for example , the yarns may be

about 85 yds . per ounce with a twist constant Of square root of

cotton counts x about 3 71as compared to a roving cons tant Of

85 yds . per ounce in bump yarns 16 2 in cotton counts .

Roving Frame for Banding .

Many cotton waste mills combine both Spinning and weaving

more so than is the case for ordinary cotton yarns and cloths . Some

cotton waste mills also combine the production Of other goods from

cotton waste yarns,as for example banding

,Often made from

reject cops . There are various kinds Of banding machine but justhere a word On the roving frame only .

As in the case Of a roving frame used as a condenser spinningor doubling machine

,so also in this case the main principles Of the

ordinary cotton roving frame are maintained .

The use Of the differentia l motion and the skew gearing and'

swing mot ions are Optional and dependent largely upon the strength .

of the material placed in the creel . If this is reliable and strong,

and a uniform,reliable

,strong banding is being produced

,the

above items may be dispensed with and the material must pul l the

bobbin round . In other cases these mechanica l deta i ls must beretained .

The spindle gearing wil l all be retai ned in any case .

The use Of all the bobbin driving and winding-on mechanism

in the former case has the decided advantage of controll ing the“ drag or winding-on tension

,and may lead to the production Of

more nicely buil t bobbins .

822 COTTON WASTE .

Even if the differential and swing motions were stopped the

cone - drums may be used to control the l ifter driving, although in

some such frames cones are not formed on the bobbins .

In making banding on the roving frame the bobbins or cheesesi n the creel have been probably produced by winding quite a

number Of thinner threads together previously at a quick traverse

winding machine .

A water trough may ormay not be used for these wound threads

to pass through ,and assuming wet twisting is required

,then each

rope of threads from the creel is passed round proper guides more

or less in the water - trough,and preferably covered with brass to

prevent corros ion .

Other suitable guides or rollers are used ,the twisting and wind

i ng Operations proceed simultaneously as required and in the usual

way.

Messrs . Ta tham’

s Roving Frame for Sp inning .

Accompanying the author’

s remarks on the roving frame forcotton waste spinning may be given the illustration ,

fig,73 , and its

description .

This frame is suitable for low counts Of yarn ,say NO . 1

s to 3’

s,

to be used as weft for sponge or cleaning cloths , mop and wick

yarns , etc .

If the weft is to be single, the roving bobbins are taken to a pirn

winder to be made into solid cops suitable for the loom shuttle . In

c ases where the weft is two or three - fold,the roving bobbins are

taken to the doubling machine prior to the pirn winder .

Specification— Spindles in . diameter,8 in . li ft

,to make a

bobbin SA; in . diameter, 5% in . pitch ,

207} i n . staff. Flyers with

s ingle centrifugal pressers . One l ine Of bottom fluted rollers and

one l ine Of pla i n solid top rollers . Improved cone - li fting and

s trap-t ightening motions . Ful l bobbin s top motion . Automa t ic

locking door to jack motion . Surface drums and stands to receive

the condenser bobbins,and fitted with patent “ grip spindle ra i l

and long collars . Patent endless cone drum driving belt .

Ormes ’ hank indicator .

E xtras supp lied if orderedSpindles {7} in . diameter .

Steel separating plates .

324 COTTON WASTE .

Steel casing plates i n l ieu of mahogany boards for top Of bobbinand Spindle ra i ls .

Loose-boss tOp rollers .

Special Features — Patent grip Spindle rai l . The long

collars are secured by means Of a spl i t boss with set-screw attached

to the rai ls, g iving a s imple and true method of fixing same , and

effecting a saving in driving power .

Paten t endless cone drum driving belt is self adapting to thetaper and curve Of cone drums , ensuring more powerful driving and

accuracy Of winding .

Production— This varies according to the amount Of twist put

i nto the yarn,when spinning

,say counts 2

s,the production is

about 8 lb . per spindle per week of 56 hours .

Dimensions,Weights, Speed, etc.

,of a Frame of 168 Spindles.

Length. Width. Gross Net CubicFt. In. Ft . In. Diam. Width . t s. t s Ft .

Rover 38 11 x 3 5 14 in . for 3 in . belt . 480 revs . 3 I .H.P. 114 92 360

There are also made frames to make a bobbin 9 i n . l ift , 4} in .

diameter,6 in . gauge Of spindles , 24 in . staff.

CHAPTER XI .

FINAL SPINNING PROCESSE S.

False Twisting Machine.

WHAT has become known as the “ false twisting frame is a

machine made when required by Messrs . Plat t Bros . Of Oldham .

I t is essentially a ring- spinning frame but conta ins some very

dist inctive features designed to make it useful in Spinning yarnsfrom the short fibres Of cotton waste with creels taking condenserlbobbins directly from the finisher card .

Like the four top roller system Of Mr. Smith,this device is

des igned to more or less rival the condenser mule in giving draft

to the condenser rovings , and thus produce finer counts Of yarn .

General ly Speaking,this false twisting frame when compared

with the mule,possesses the understood features Of continuous

Spinning,smal ler Space occupied ,

and therefore greater production

(see fig .

A general V iew Of the machine is given . Messrs . Platt are of

c ourse extensive makers also of condenser mules to meet all usual

c ondit ions .

The machine,l ike most ring frames

,has a row Of spindles on

each Side, and the condenser bobbins are placed upon corrugated

c entral ly disposed metal drums so as to unwind at a un i form surface

speed . The creel may be arranged to hold two rows Of condenser

bobbins,one row for each side

,or arranged for one row only Of

c ondenser bobbins , i n which latter case the condenser strands are

delivered alternately to each s ide .

The condenser cotton is taken through a pair Of feed rol lers

which have a surface speed practically equal to that of the con

denser surface drums,and is then passed through a twisting tube

to what may be termed the drawing rol lers . Leaving these rollers

each thread passes through a traveller and upon the ri ng in the

u sual way.

326 COTTON WASTE .

Special attention may be now drawn to the most distinct ive

feature Of the machine .

One pair O f rollers is placed reasonably close to the condenser

bobbins,and a second pair a l ittle distance above the thread -wire

and lappet . There is a moderate amount Of draft between these

two pairs Of rol lers , one pair being distinctly higher up than the

OINSKR BOBBIN

FIG . 74 .

other, and some distance away,SO that the draft differs entirely

from established ideas Of rol ler draft,and practical ly imitates the

principle of “ carriage ga i n on the self-actor mule . The false

twisting principle is i ntroduced to permit Of this gain or draft .Between the two pairs Of rollers

,and practical ly as close as

possible to the lower pair,a vertical twisting tube is placed , con

taining a Spindle wharve and driven round in the usual way by a

spindle band operated from a spindle band passing round an extra

328 COTTON WASTE .

The Spindle distance may be 25 in . ,in .

,3 in .

,4 in .

,or 45 in .

to sui t requirements . The l ift may be 5 to 9 in . as required .

Ri ngs , 21‘ in .

,2-2 in .

,25 in .

,inside diameter for warp ,

or 113} t o

1% in . for weft , ris ing by steps of g in .

FIG . 76 .

—Smith‘

s Rol ler Arrangement .

In the figure the various parts will be readily found from above

description . Fig . 75 is designed to i l lustrate a pa ir of rol lers and

cleaners as used in the condenser doubling card .

FINAL SPINNING PROCESSES. 329

Messrs. Hetherington’

s Waste Ring Frames . The Smith Patents .

If required,we understand that Messrs . Hetherington Sons

Ltd.,of Manchester

,are prepared to make ring frames for the spin

ning of yarns from Cotton waste e ither with the ordinary system

of draft rollers or upon the “ Smith system according to order .

The writer is indebted to them for the i llustrat ions (figs . 76 and

77) which Show the ordinary rol ler stand and a lso the rol le r

s tand of the Smith ring frame .

Mr. Smith has during recent years devoted a great dea l of tim e

FIG . 77 .—Ordinary Rol ler Stand for R ing -Frame.

and money in adapting the‘

ring frame to the condenser system Of

c otton waste . As lShOW Il in fig . 76 the fundamental feature con

s ists in using four top rol lers i nstead of three , three of these rollers

being Of small diameter and two Of them touching the front bottom

roller . This arrangement permits very short fibre to carry through

the rollers,and permits of a greater draft than is obtainable i n

any Spinning frame or mule that possesses no draft rol lers .

Accompanying this specia l r ing frame there are other devices ,

as,for example , a method of oscil lating or traversing the feed rol ler

and worker rollers— after the manner of a long grinding roller— SO

as to correct irregularit ies i n the feed of cotton and thus ensure

380 COTTON WASTE

even,

and re gular ends upon the condenser bobbin . (Seefig .

It rema i ns to be seen to what extent the trade will adopt the

suggested ideas . Mr. Smith is a capable man, and has l ectured

on waste spinning for the present writer at Bolton Techn ical

School . For a 3 - top rol ler stand see fig . 77 .

In what is termed the “ condenser doubling card the feed

rol lers are traversed Six times per minute over a width of 3 in .,

whilst the workers receive a double traverse of z} in . or 1 i n .

(according to material) for every revolution .

The odd and even rol lers move in alternate directions in order

to better Obtain the regularizing or doubli ng effect upon the cotton .

Of their ring frame for Spinning cotton waste yarns,M essrs .

Hetherington state that i n other respects i t resembles their ordinary

ring frame,with the creel arranged to take condenser bobbins .

The pedestals are self-supporting and sel f- lubricat in g . Tin

rollers are strongly made,coupled by stout shafts which run in

Mohler self-adjusting and self - lubricat ing bearin gs .

G irder rai ls are Of a deep and s trong section and top surfaces

planed to give a true carrying surface for the Spindles .

Ring ra i ls are broad and strong with a deep flange,milled on

the top and front and l et squarely into the poker top .

The ring rai l l ifting motion can be worked by chains and

blocks,but the usual method is by chains and levers

,well -balanced

and arranged to carry smal l bowls that come under the poker

supporting rai ls . The chain connecting the heart lever to the

rocking shafts cannot lock, as i t is always under tension . After

doffing , the heart lever can be rapidly raised and lowered to take

up the Slack yarn by means Of a foot -pedal,while putt ing the

strap on the fast pulley .

E i ther cop-building motion or straight l ift may be applied

All rings are punched from the sol id s teel bar,carefully turned ,

and highly pol ished after being case -hardened .

New Roller Stand and Cap Bar

The roller s tands and cap bars are of improved pattern ,the

bearings for the front roller are bushed with brass and the sl ides

are milled all over to standard Sizes . The front bearing is a

separate piece SO that in cases of accident it can be eas i ly replaced

without in any way disturbing the!stand .

3 32

M

H

U

O

UJ

>

COTTON WASTE

References to D iagram.

Stop finger.Stop rod.

Spira l Spring on do.

Strap lever.Sethoops on stop rod.

Long stop rod running the length of the mule carriage.

FINAL SPINN ING PROCESSES. 833

As the carriage completes the outward run the disengaging leverK is l ifted

,through the square block L and the incline lever O

,

upon the distance bracket N . At the finish of the draw the latch

lever J releases the fork lever H,by coming in contact with the

stop screw Q ,and the top part Of the catch box D then falls into

gear,driving the rack F forward . The latter

,

coming i n contact

with the weighted lever P,pushes i t aga inst the adjustable stop

screw R,when the carriage is driven back by the continued motion

of the rack .

The motion is put out of gear , after the carriage has receded

the desired distance,by the square block L fall ing off the end of the

distance bracket N . The disengaging lever K then lifts the catch

box out of gear through the lever H and the tension of the SpringM . The rack F is returned to its former posit ion (fixed by the

stop hoop G) _

by the weighted buffer lever P.

The above motion is Often Omitted from cotton waste mules .

Carriage Stop Motion (Asa Lees) , (Fig .

This motion is applied in order that the attendant may stop the

mule from any part of the carriage where he may be working, and

is Operated in the following manner

The stop finger A is so adjusted on the stop rod F by the

sethOOps that i t may be moved either opposite to or just clear of the

stop rod B.

When it is desired to stop the mule the stop finger A is

pulled Opposite the stop rod B,and as the carriage finishes its

i nward run the latter is forced under the weighted end Of the strap

lever D,thus holding the strap on the loose pulley and preventing

the mule from starting out again .

TO start the mule aga i n it is only necessary to move the stop

rod F in the Opposi te direction,when the rod B is released through

the tension of the spira l Spring C,and the strap is brought on to the

fast pul ley . Above motion is very useful for creel ing .

Slubbing Motion (Fig

The Obj ect of this motion is to stop the delivery of yarn by the

rollers at any desired position during the draw .

When the cam A puts the catch box in gear by means of the

lever B,the latch D engages with the catch E and prevents the

catch box from being disengaged again until such time as it is

384 COTTON WASTE .

released by the adjustable stud H on the slubbing wheel . The

latter,as i t revolves , comes in contact with the latch D and raises

i t Off the catch . Modern 3- speed waste mules often omit this motion .

The Slubbing wheel is driven from the front spindle by means

of the worm K and the wheels L andM. When the catch box isdisengaged the nog N ,

on lever B,comes i n contact with the lever

F and raises the Slubbing wheel out of gearwith the wheel M , when

i t is returned to zero by the return weight 0 , the two stops R and

S fixing the correct position for the next draw .

neu r

SLUBBING MOTION

FIG . 80.

References

Sect ion Of cam shaft.Lever to operate the front

sp indle catch box .

Front sp indle catch box .

Latch for do.

Ca tch for latch lever.Lever

,centred at E , to carry

s lubbing Wheel .Slubbing whee l , 100 teeth.

Adjustable stop on s lubbingWheel.

to D iagram.

K Worm on front Spindle.

L Wheels to drive s lubbing wheel ,M} 30 and 50 teeth.

N Nog to raise s lubbing whee l outof gear.

0 Return weight .P Spring to d isengage catch box.

!}Stops for Slubbing wheel .

336 COTTON WASTE .

wheel 3 which is fast on sleeve E and the spindles start at thei r

s lowest speed through the clutch 4 taking the pulley D round

with it by means of the ins ide of the pul ley D acting as the ex

ternal clutch .

At any desired t ime the strap is moved from the loose lpulley}5on to the fast pulley D thus giving the spindles an i ncreased speed

,

the externa l part of the clutch now over - running the internal part .Later the strap is moved from the fast pulley D to the pulley 6

which is fast on sleeve C,thus driving the Spindles through the rim

FINAL SPINNING PROCESSES. 337

7 (also fast on sleeve C) at a sti l l greater speed . When the requ isiteamount of twist has been put in the yarn , the strap is rel ieved by

the twist motion and moved on to the loose pu ll ey 5 by the same

motion the backing Off is kept out Of gear , until the spindles have

somewhat reduced their speed . These motions are all adjustable

and can be made to act at any required t ime to suit the various

classes of yarn .

CLEANING AND OILING .

An eminent machine firm gives the fol lowing instructions for

machines in an ordinary cotton Spinning mil l,and these may be

modified to requirements by cotton waste spinners

Openers and Scutchers.

All bearings mus t be Oiled once a day,and those of quick ‘

running shafts twice a day.

The bottom of the dust box,which is behind the beaters , should

be let down about once every two hours , i n order to throw out the

impurit ies which have fallen from the cotton through the grid bars .

Great care must be taken that this Operat ion is never p erformed

whilst the machine is runni ng .

The beater droppings must also be taken out once per day.

It is a lso necessary to clean the machines all through once a

week,on which occasion the calender rol lers are to be taken out .

Whilst doing this,the bearings will of course be thoroughly cleaned

and freshly O iled . The dust flues must also be cleaned .

If the cone feed regulator is Of the pedal and bowl - rai l pattern,

i t is necessary to take apart the bowls and bowl - ra i ls and clean

them well,each time the machine is cleaned through . The bowls

,

pedal bearing surfaces,and bowl - rai ls must be treated with black

lead,applied with a brush

,the blacklead having previously been.

mixed with water to the consistency Of a paste . Under nocircum

stances must these parts be oiled or greased .

I f the cone feed regulator is Of the link pattern , the parts of

same need only be brushed with a hand-brush .

Carding Engines .

All bearings must be Oi led once a day,and the main bearings

twice .

The excentric box for the doffer comb mus t be suffi ciently fil led

with Oil.

COTTON WASTE .

The cards must be cleaned all through once a week .

In order to facil itate the passage of the flats , the ends of same ,i.e .

,their bearing surfaces

,must be touched with blacklead which

has previously been mixed with water to the consistency of a

paste,the blacklead to be appl ied with a brush ; under no circum

stances must the ends of the flats or their bearing surfaces be oiled

or greased .

The front part Of the card must be cleaned every two hours .

In order to keep the polished parts smooth,use French chalk for

cleaning same . Take out the l icker- in waste four t imes a day, and

that under the cyl inder grid once a week .

The floor Of the cardroom must be swept every two hours .

Stripp ing—Wh en working better class cotton , the cyl inder

must be st ripped three times and the doffer twice a day,whilst for

medium and low cottons (Of which a large production is required)both must be stripped four times a day

Grinding— The cylinder

,doffer

,and flats must be lightly ground

every three weeks,i.e . for four hours .

Settings.— The setting gauges must be of s tandard Sizes , viz

in . , in ., in. ,

or in . In setting ,the

circumstances Of course determine .

An average sett ing,however

,is as fol lows

Set the doffer to cylinder with a gauge in .

flats at front (above doffer) to the cylinder witha flat gauge

flats in middle (above cylinder shaft) to cyl inderwi th flat gauge

flats at back (over l icker- in) to the cyl inderwith flat gaugedofl

'

er comb to doffer with gaugeGeneral ly the feed rol ler dish is set to the l icker- in

,

and the l icker- in to the cylinder with gauge .

The l icker - in knives must always be set as close as possible tothe l icker - in , without , however, catching same .

Above deta i ls are for week Of 557} hours and 10 hour day. Theyare somewhat modified for a working week Orday Of shorter durat ion .

Self-Acting Mules.

Al l quickly- running shafts i n headstock and carriage must beO i l ed twice a day,

and the bearings of the back shaft,carriage

340 COTTON WASTE .

bowls,drawing-out Scrol ls , strap pulleys , and the steps of the

fal ler and counter - faller shafts must be O i led twice a week .

The spindle bolsters must be oiled twice a day,and the Spindle

footsteps once . Spindle footsteps with Oil chamber must be oiled

once weekly .

The fluted rol lers must be taken out four times a year,and the

flutes thoroughly cleaned . The roller steps must be well cleaned

and freshly greased on these occasions .

If the middle and back top rol lers are weighted by weights , thenecks may be treated every two days with a mixture of oi l and fat

,

applied with a brush . The necks of the top rol lers when self

weighted must neither be oiled nor greased at the most,they may

be touched with blacklead,mixed with water to the cons istency Of

a paste,and applied with a brush . The centres of the front l ine of

top rollers must be Oi led once a week,care being taken that not too

much oil is appl ied,and that i t does not get on to the rol ler

leathers . When Single boss rol lers are used,the roller cap nebs

must be taken out when cleaning through,and blacklead

,mixed

with water to the consistency Of a paste,applied to same

,to pol ish

the nebs . Cleaning through Should take place every four or six

weeks according to the counts Spun and the cotton used .

The front top rollers should be re-varnished once a week . The

top roller leathers should be periodical ly examined,and ei ther re

covered or ground up aga i n .

Al l rollers should be cleaned once or twice a week .

The waste should be taken from the under clearers Once or

twice a day,according to the counts Spun and the cotton used .

General ly , after four to Six years’ working

,all spinning machines

should be completely taken to pieces,with the exception of the

framing,and all lubri cated parts thoroughly cleaned , necessary

repa irs effected , i.e . pieces replaced where necessary,and the

whole machine level led aga in with spiri t level and twine . The

labour and time thus expended are amply recompensed by the.

greatly prolonged working l ife and smoother running Of themachines .

Roller Delivery Motion whilst Twisting at theHead.

The arrangement as per fig . 82 is made by Asa Lees Co . for

fine Spinn ing mules instead Of the jacking- in motion .

FINAL SPINNING PROCESSES. 341

R eferences to D iagram.

A Front rol ler sp indle .

B Sect ion of rol ler beam .

0 Free wheel loose on front spindle (95 teeth) .D A series of cli cks attached to C and working in the teeth of E .

C l ick wheel keyed on front spindle (59 teeth ) .Long boss drag p inion .

G,J, K Carrier wheels.

ROLLER DELIVERY MOTION

WHILST TWISTING AT THE HEAD

FIG . 82.

Change wheel , 20 to 30 teeth .

L Drag wheel carrier.M Drag wheel .N Drag p in ion .

0 Back shaft wheel .P Back shaft .

During the outward run of the carriage_

the cl ick wheel E over

runs the cl icks D . When the front roller catch box is disengaged ,towards the end Of the draw

,either for jacking or twisting at the

342 COTTON WASTE .

head,the wheel C continues to revolve s lowly, being driven by the

pinion E,which in turn is driven from the long boss pinion F

by the train Of wheels shown in the diagram . The cl icks D then

engage with the teeth Of the cl ick wheel E,which would otherwise

stop when the catch box is disengaged , causing it to revolve Slowly

and thus driving the rol lers at a reduced speed unti l the twist motion

has finished working and the strap is on the loose pul ley .

Imp roved Condenser Mule with 3 -Spindle Speeds!(Taylor ,

Lang,

Much interest is often manifested by both manufacturers and

Spinners in waste Spinning . The subject is one of pecul iar and

Specia l interest,partly by reason Of the util i ty of re-manufacturing

i nto useful goods many classes of what would otherwise be waste

materia l,and partly by reason of the diverse uses to which waste

yarns are now put . To a greater or less degree they enter int o

the composi t ion Of a host of different fabrics , and i n many cases

condenser yarns are better suited to give the desired effect than

are ordinary yarns .

Messrs . Taylor , Lang , say :“ The abil ity to discern the subtle

differences between different classes of waste yarn is only to be

Obta ined by a close practical acquaintance with them , but that the

differences are there is proved by the fact that the variat ion , for in

stance , between ring- spun and mule - spun condenser yarns, is

readily discernible in the ul timate woven cloth . The condenser

system of Spinning can be used on the ring frame , and the yarn so

produced is suitable for certa i n purposes , but what is technical ly

known as‘ condenser ’ yarn can only be satisfactorily spun upon

the mule . In the waste yarn trade,

‘condenser’ yarn is usual ly

understood to signify a yarn which is very level,soft Spun , possess

i ng great fill ing properties when used as weft,and capable Of taking

a high finish in rais ing . The mule alone can give this .

“We need hardly mention that i n the preparation Of condenserbobbins for waste spinning

,all the usual drawings and doublings

by which ordinary roving is evened during its passage through the

drawing and flyframes are el iminated . There is,therefore

, all the

more reason that the final spinning process Shou ld be capable of

‘ In connect ion with this description refer to fig s. 83 , 84 , 85, 86 hereafter g iven .

344 COTTON WASTE .

the countershaft , the drums varying in diameter in the proportion

Of about 3 to 2. The first spindle speed is Obta i ned from thesmal lest drum ,

and the same belt drives the rol ler and carriage

g earing throughout the draw ,so that the Spindles always start at

ident ically the same time as the rollers . This is a very important

point,for if either the carriage or the rol lers started before the

other,the results would be harmful

,i f not disastrous . The second

spindle speed can be arranged to commence at any desired part

of the stretch,by adjust ing a depressing lever conveniently placed

upon the headstock side . When this is pushed down,the second

s trap,which is driven from a larger drum upon the countershaft ,

and which has been running upon a loose pulley , is moved forward

on to a pulley keyed to the rimshaft, upon which the smal l er of thetwo driving rims is carried . The effect Of this i ncreased speed Of

the rimshaft is to disengage the clutch through which the roller

driving strap has been turning the rimshaft . The first strap con

tinues to drive the rollers and carriage at a constant Speed through

out the draw,but the spindles are now accelerated

,and cont inue

to revolve at th is higher Speed until the third and qui ckes t Speed

c omes i n to action . Thi s th ird speed is obta i ned by a tappet upon

the twis t mot ion releas i ng the NO . 2 strap lever and a l lowing i t to

move across the loose pulley on to a second fast pul ley , which is

a ttached to a s leeve runn ing through the backing - Off wheel and

back -bear i ng Of the rimshaft, and drives the spindles through

the larger of the two r im pulleys .

The carr iage is strong but l ight,which makes i t capable Of

s teady runn ing at high speeds . The headstock framing is

s ubs tant ia l ly bu i l t on sound l ines and all parts are machine -milled

or planed,so as to be interchangeable . Great at tent ion has been

pa id to th is mat ter so that new parts can be ordered by number

w i th the certa in ty tha t they wil l fi t correctly . Ample faci l i t ies

are a fforded for making wide chang es . An improved Copping

motion is a lso used,which s tarts with a short chase , then gives an

unusual ly long chase in the middle of the Cop ,and fin ishes with a

shortened chase . In this way the cops are strengthened internal ly

and are better able to wi thstand handling . Other Specia l motions

i nclude an improved cam cl ick locking mot ion ,automat i c backing

o ff cha i n t ighten ing motion,an automa t i c nos i ng mot ion worked

from the bu i lder motion a lso an improved fal ler weighti ng arrange

ment ass is ts i n the making of a part icularly firm Cop ,which runs

FINAL SPINNING PROCESSES. 345

o ff eas i ly i n the shuttle or at the winding frame . There are a

number Of arrangements upon the headstock for deal i ng with thes pecial requirements Of condenser spinn i ng . In par t i cular

,

a spec ia l arrangement is used which is the very Opposi te ofthe an t i - snarl ing mot ion used upon fine mules . In other words

,

it is an arrangement for ensur ing that the front rol lers sha l l del ivera l i tt le yarn before the carr iage starts away from the rol ler beam .

This prevents any poss ib i l i ty Of the yarn being over - s tretched ,

tor the short length Of yarn which has been well twisted duringthe conclus ion Of the preced ing draw is thus softened and put i ntoa condi t ion to al low of its being eas i ly drawn . Another special

feature worthy Of note is that in th is headstock the pul l of therimband is arranged to hold back the carriage , thus prevent ing

i t from jumping away from the rol ler beam at the beginning of

the stre tch ,and a lso ensuring that when the double and treble

speeds come into act i on,there Shal l be no j erk ing forward of the

c arriage , any such act ion being immediately product ive of

s tretched”or nicked ” yarn .

Productions for Forty-E ightHours .

Counts Of yarn 1’

s 2’

s 3’

s 4’s 5

s 6’

s 7’s 8

e 9’s

Approx ima te productionsper week of forty- eight 12 8 6 42 35 3 2; 25 2ihours in llb . per spind le

720 spind les 13 in. gauge 20 bobb ins of 36 ends.

Specification Of condenser mule for Spinning 8’s.

588 sp ind les 12 in . gauge 21 bobb ins of 28 ends.

I nc luding : new pattern specia l headstock arranged for treble speed of

sp indles ; case-hardened steel rim shaft rim pul leys with double grooves ; ropetaking - in with t ightening apparatus ; quadrant with detachab le wheel part ;instantaneous c l ick lock ing mot ion ; steel winding c l ick wheel ; p laned and

p ol ished rol ler beam ; 3 scrol ls on taking - in shaft ; 3 scrolls on backshaft ;

backshafts li in. diameter ; fa l ler shafts is in . and 1 in . d iameter ; 2 l ines ofbottom rol lers 1 in . diameter ; 1 l ine Of sol id top rol lers 1 in. diameter deadweighted ; rol lers with two ends per boss ; wire gu ides on wood rods ; carriageslboarded underneath with strong boards ; diagona l rods running from square tocarriage end ; length of sp ind le 17 to 18g in. pipe bolsters and

_

deep sing lefootsteps for sp ind les ; brass ferules in front sp indle ribs ; Oil tubes for lubricat ing tin rollers from front of carriage creel for condenser bobbins with 9 in.

diameter fluted wooden surface drums ; plate bolsters and sing le footsteps ;c ounter driving w ith shaft , double hangers , drums and pul leys ; improved

346 COTTON WASTE .

348 COTTON WASTE .

o W inding drum.

p pinion on T.R . shaft .g Rope taking -in pul ley .

r Tak ing -in shaft bevel .s Upright shaft top bevel .t Scrol l shaft bevels .

w Backing -off pinion .

a: wheel .31 Taking -in scrol l .2 check scrol l .

Patent Treble Sp indle Speed Condenser . Mule Rim

References to Diagram (Fig .

A Rim shaft.B Steel Cl ick wheel keyed on shaft (A) .C Sma l l rim on rim shaft (A) .D 2nd Speed driving pu l ley keyed on shaft (A) .E Loose pul ley running on boss of (D ) .F 3rd speed driv ing pul ley bolted on Sleeve (G) .G Sleeve running from pu l ley (F ) to large rim (H ) .H Large rim carried on s leeve (G) .J Worm for twi st mot ion on s leeve (G) .K Backing -off wheel runn ing loose on s leeve (G) .Rol ler and carriage driving pul ley running loose on rim shaft .

M Steel c l ick on (L ) engag ing with click wheel (B ) to g ive 1st sp indle speed .

N Loose pul ley running on boss of pul ley (L) .O Detachab le boss on rim shaft end carrying sma l l rim .

P P inion driving carriage and rol lers on sleeve of (L . )

The rim shaft il lustrated in diagram is designed to enable three

s epara te spindle speeds (slow ,medium

,and fast) to be obta ined in

success ion ,together with a constant roller del ivery and carriage

speed,while driving the counter shaft through a Single drum on

line shaft . Two down belts are used,one working on the pulleys

(L N ) and the other running upon the pul leys (D E F) . These

two straps are driven at different Speeds by counter drums varying

in diameter in the ratio of two to three .

The attention of the reader is directed to diagram on Oppos ite

page and to the lettered references above . It wil l be found on

examination that s l eeve pulley (L) can be drawn Off the front of

rim shaft carrying with it loose pulley (N) and rol ler drivmg pinion(P) which is pegged into the sl eeve and has no connexion with the

rim shaft (A) . Further,on unscrewing lock nut at back of rim shaft

it is poss ibl e after sl iding boss (A) (upon which is small rim (C) )

FINAL SPINNING PROCE SSES. 349

from its key , to withdraw sleeve (G) . This Sleeve wi l l be found to

carry upon it large rim (H) , twist worm (J) , backing-off wheel (K) ,and fast pulley (F) . Loose pulley (E ) can now be removed from

CD

a.

the boss of (D) and i t will then be found that only fast pulley (D )and cl ick wheel (B) are actual ly attached to rim Shaft .As the mule runs up both down belts are upon the loose pulleys

(E ) and (L) respectively . When the carriage reaches the rollerbeam the strap driven by the smal l drum on counter Shaft is allowed

to move Slowly from loose pulley (N) ,on Ito Sleeve pulley (L) . The

350 COTTON WASTE .

rotat ion of sl eeve (L) immediately drives both rol lers and carriage

at the same instant cl ick (M) is engaged with click wheel (B) uponthe rim shaft and the first , or Slow speed of Spindles is obta ined

from smal l rim (C) .This slow spi ndle Speed continues until the strap driven by the

larger drum on counter shaft is moved forward from loose pulley

(E ) on to fast pulley (D) . This strap immediately takes control of

rim shaft and drives the spindles through smal l rim (C) at a consider

ably increased Speed . This increase Oi Speed is represented by the

difference in diameter Of the two drums placed on counter shaft .The effect Of this increased speed Of rim Shaft is to disengage click

(M) from click wheel (B) . The Sleeve pulley (L) continues todrive the rollers and carriage at their original speed throughout the

whole of the draw .

This second or medium Speed of Spindles continues until the

outward run is almost complete,and then the quick- running bel t

is trans ferred across loose pulley (E ) to Sl eeve pulley (F) This

strap now drives the Spindles through large rim (H) and gives thethird or fast speed of Spindles . The difference between second

and third speeds is represented by the difference in the diameters

of the two rims (C ) and (H) .When the carriage completes its outward movement the rol ler

driving belt is transferred from sleeve pulley (L) to loose pulley (N)and when the required amount Of twist has been inserted the second

belt is transferred to loose pulley (E ) . Backing-Off now takes place

through the medium Of the large rim (H) ; the mule runs up and

the draw is complete .

For descript ion of the levers,etc .

,actuating the straps

, see dia

gram Fig . 85 on Opposi te page .

Treble Sp indle Speed Condenser Mule Motions .

For a description Of the method of Obtai ning the 3 -SpindleSpeeds from the rim Shaft

,see fig . 84 and its description

,

which must be referred to in conjunction with the following

remarks .

As the mule runs up both down belts are upon the loose pulleys .

If the stop motion is Operat ing the latch lever (C) will not be l ifted ,

and strap eye (A) will continue upon the loose pulley . The mule

will remain at rest so long as stop rod is not disturbed .

When the stop motion is not acting,bracket (E) comes in contact

352 COTTON WASTE .

with incl ine (D ) and l ifts the latch lever (C) ; this releases straplever (B) carrying strap eye (A) which is drawn upon the fastpulley by a spring shown in diagram . The movement of the bel t

is controlled by bowl (J) which in conjunction with lever (H) allows .

the belt to come Slowly into action as the carr iage moves away

from the rol ler beam . This first strap drives rollers and carriageand also gives the first Speed Of Spindles .

The above condit ions obtain until the movement of the carriagebrings the swing lever (S) in contact with trigger (Q ) . Up to thismoment the second strap eye (K) has been held in its centra lpos it ion upon the loose pulley by recess (T2) i n twist latch lever

(T) engaging with the proj ect ion upon the loose part of compound

strap lever (L) , although the fast part of compound strap lever has.

been moved by the action Of the cam away from (L) to a posit ioncorresponding to that required for the third Spindle speed . The

depression of trigger (Q) moves strap lever (L) from recess (T2)i nto recess (T1) on twist latch lever , thus bringing strap eye (K)i nto l ine with second spindle Speed driving pulley . The posi t ionOf the levers is now that i l lustrated i n the diagram

,and i t wil l be

not iced that the‘

two halves of the compound strap lever (L M) arewidely separated ,

thei r only connexion being through the Springshown in diagram .

The second speed of Spindles continues a long with the steadyforward movement of the carriage unti l the outward run is a lmostcomplete . The third spindle speed is now brought into action byfinger (V) on twist mot ion be ing caused to lift twist latch lever (T)out of contact with loose strap lever (L) . The strap now movesqu ickly across the loose pul ley on to the fast pul ley next to the

backing-Off fr iction . The strap lever (L) performs this movement .

under the i nfluence of the spiral Spring connect ing it to fast s trap

lever (M) and thus brings the third spindle Speed into Operation .

As the mule completes its outward run bel l crank lever (G) is.

l i fted by the fal lers,and rod (F) pulls strap eye (A) on to loose

pul ley thus bringing rollers and carriage to rest . Strap (K) con

tinues to drive the spindles at the maximum speed , being now held

in position upon the fast pulley by twist lever (N ) , al though thecam has changed to give it a centra l posi t ion on loose pul ley .

When the required amount Of twist has been inserted twist catch

(W) lifts twist lever (N ) and releasi ng (K ) al lows i t to re turn to theloose pulley through the influence Of the Spring attached to lower

FINAL SPINNING PROCESSES . 353

extremity Of (M ) . Backing-Off now takes place and the mule runsup .

Pa tent Carriage Retarding Motion (Fig .

The Short length of yarn between spindle point and roller whichhas had the ful l amount of twist inserted during the precedingdraw is not in a suitable condit ion for the carriage draft to act

upon it . The use of this device enabl es the rollers to del iver

a l ittle roving before the carriage begins its outward run and thishas the effect of Softening the yarn and SO obviates the excess ive

breakage of ends which often occurs i n the first few inches of the

draw .

The carriage is driven from the front rol ler in the usual waythe des ired effect being obtai ned by us ing in connexion with the

backshaft catchbox an arrangement similar to that in the anti

snarling motion applied to the fine mule,the effect in this case ,

however , being exactly Opposite .

Instead of the proj ections (D ) on sl iding portion of clutch (C) beingconnected with backshaft through a disc Of the usual type , a Specia l

form of disc (E ) is employed . When the Sl iding portion Of catch

box (C) is ungeared from the other half upon wheel (B) , it is pos

s ible to rotate (C ) upon the shaft until the proj ections (D ) cast upon

its interior are“

out of contact with the wings on disc (E ) . I f the

catchbox be then put into gear the motion of backshaft wheel (B)will not be transmitted to backshaft and carriage unti l the projec

tions have moved through an are sufficient to compensate for the

above backward movement .Spring (J) is arranged so as to revolve the sl iding portion of

clutch (C) away from the wings of disc (D) whenever the clutch isdisengaged . By setting the stop col lar (H) in a su i table pos ition

relat ive to proj ection (G) on plate (F) which is attached to Sl idingportion of clutch

,any required amount of retardation of backshaft!

and carriage may be readily Obta ined. If the catch box is disen

gaged,spring (J) will pul l (C) backwards unti l (H) and (G) are in

contact and this negative rotation wil l be lost upon the next engage

ment of the clutch .

If the projection on stop collar (H) be arranged to remain incontact with proj ection (G ) i t is evident that no backward movement of (C) can take place upon its disengagement , and as the

driving projections are thus kept in contact wi th the wings of disc23

354 COTTON WASTE .

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CHAPTER XII .

PROCESSES SUBSE QUENT TO SPINNING .

Reeling .

REEL ING has for its primary Object the winding or reel ing of

spun or double yarn from cops or bobbins into the form Of hanks

or l eas,the standard hank being 840 yds . and the lea 120 yds .

so far as cotton is concerned . Messrs . Asa Lees CO . clearly

show cop and bobbin reel ing in figs . 87 , 88 , which Show the

bridge ”

dofling motion .

A great deal of single Spun yarn from cotton waste is reeled

i nto hanks for the double purpose of convenience Of transi t and

for bleaching or dye ing purposes .

For quilts especia l ly a good deal Of bleached condenser weftis used

,and after the yarn has been bleached in the bank form

it may be wound into sol id COpS on the special pirn winding frame ,which may have its creel fitted to take either Cops , hanks , or ring

bobbins,as may be required .

The creel Of the reel itsel f may be suited to take either COpS ,

ring bobbins,flyframe bobbins

,cheeses or cones of yarn .

A reel may be either single or double and when used for con

denser or preparat ion yarns should have a wide pitch or gauge .

Reeled yarn is made up into bundles which may be either short

bundles hard pressed in a Special ly strong bundl ing machine, or

may be made into long unpressed or l ightly pressed bundles . It

is quite common for condenser yarns to be made into long nu

pressed bundles and transmitted from one Lancashire town or mil l

to another one without any wrappering . The standard circumfer

ence 54 i n . or 1; yds .

Particulars of Mill containing Ring Spindles (Messrs .

Dobson Barlow) .

Below is a sett ing out for a mill which may use short staple

new cotton more or less mixed with waste to Spin very coarse yarns

by ordinary Spinning processes

PROCESSES SUBSEQUENT TO SP INNING . 357

China .

Average 14’

s Counts .

1 Wi l low ,with self-act ing grid and del ivery

,56 in . wide .

1 .Roving waste Opener,25

' i n . wide .

F IGS. 87 , 88 .—Asa Lees Co.

Patent Pneumatic Cotton-Mixing Plant.

1 Hopper bale'

breaker, ;36 in . wide , with del ivery mouth -piece.

2 D el ivery boxes.

358

1

1

1

2

COTTON WASTE .

Collector and del ivery box .

Exhaust fan .

Control stand .

Swivel guide plates, 3 mixings.

Blowing Room.

2 Hopper feeders with porcupine , 37 i n . wide , 10

lattice .

2 Single vertical Openers , with by-pass arrangement .

2 Dust trunks,with travel l ing lat ti ce .

2

3

H

H

l—‘Hl—‘HH

1

Horizontal exhaust openers , 38 i n . laps .

Single scutchers,finishers

,38 in . laps .

Card Room.

Cards, 50 in . x 38 in. laps , 26 in . doffers .

Drawing frames , 1 head , 7 del iveries , 17 in . roller .

Slubbing frames, 80 spindles

,10 in. space

,10 in . li ft .

Intermediate frames, 132 spindles , 6 in. space, 10

Roving frames,168 Spindles

,5g in . space, 7 in. l ift .

Mechanic’

s Shop .

10 in . lathe.

6 i n . lathe .

Grinding stone.

Smith ’

s hearth and anvil .

Dri ll ing machine .

10 in . shaper.

Wheel cutter .C ircular saw .

In England repai rs might be Obtained without such a mechanic’sShop .

Sp inning Room.

R ing frames,400 Spindles

,23 in. space , 5

Single hand reels,40 hanks

,35 in . gauge .

Bundling presses,10 lb . bundles .

Banding machine, 16 spindl es .

Winder for ditto .

Hydraulic bal ing press,for 40- 10 bundles .

Pump for ditto .

Thread extractor.

3 60 CO'

I‘TON WASTE .

Messrs . Asa Lees’

Beaming Frame.

In mills which include a complete plant for weaving cloths

from cotton waste , beaming frames must be used to aid i n pro

ducing weaver’

s warps . For cleaning cloths on the gauze principle

with about 20’

s warp yarn a good number of bobbins will be

wanted in the creel . For what are termed si lks there are only

about 14 ends per inch ,the beams are narrow ,

fewer total ends are

wanted and a narrower beaming machine may be used . Sometimes

i t is on the sectional beaming machine style .

Beaming Machine. (See fig .

This machine is provided with a self- stopping motion ontheSi ngleton principle and brake motions are appl ied to all machines

t o ensure quick s topping when the motion Operates .

The pin rol lers are independent ly mounted and are so arranged

that each end Of the knocking-off roller can move i ndependently ,so that when a pin drOps it is not necessary for i t to move the

whole rol ler .

E xpanding front combs and back reeds are supplied for any

number Of ends , and V creels for any corresponding number of

bobbins . The creels are provided with glass or wood steps,as

desi red .

Al l machines are fi tted with a measuring motion , wi th indicator,to Show the number of yards wound ; and a lso a knocking -Off

motion to stop the machine when a given number Of yards has

been wound .

Weights are supplied for the beam arms to ensure hard beams.

Two drop rollers are provided to take up slack yarn.

The friction plate revolves on the boss Of the pedestal , and not

on the drum shaft,as usua l . The pin bars are made of mild steel ,

and are planed perfectly true on each side .

One. beaming machine is required for 60 to 80 looms .

Machines are made in the following si zes

9/8’

s to make beams up to 54 in . wide .

6/4’

S 60

7/4’

S 66

8/4’

s 72

9/4’

s 78

10/4’

s 84

i i/4'

s 90

PROCESSES SUBSEQUFNT TO SPINNING . 361

12/4’

s to make beams-

up to 96 i n . wide .

13/4’

s 102

14/4’

s 108

U sual size of driving pulley 15 in. x 2 i n .

Usual speed of driving pulley 45 to 50 revs . per. min .

Power required per machine about 4, LE P.

Convenient Multip liers (Messrs . Dobson Barlow) .

Circles,Areas and Figures.

D iameter of a circle x 31 416 or 2—72 the circumference .

C i rcumferenceof a circle x 0 31831 or the diameter .

Square of diameter x 0 7854 the area of the circle .

Square of diameter x the area of the circle .

Square root Of area x the diameter of a circle .

R adius of circle x 628318 the circumference .

C i rcumference 35 449 x, J area of circle .

D iameter of a circle x 0 8862 the s ide Of an equal square .

Side of a square x 11 28 the d iameter of an equal circle .

Area of a t riangle the base .

2L the perpendicular height .

Square of the diameter Of a sphere x 3 1416 convex surface.

Cube of the diameter of a sphere x 05 236 the solidity .

D iameter of a sphere x 08 06 the edge of an equal cube .

D iameter of a sphere x 0 6667 the length of an equal cyl inder .

Surface of a cyl inder area of both ends length x circum

ference .

Sol idity Of a cylinder area of one end x the length.

Sol idity of a cone area of the base x 11; the perpendicular height .

Area of an el l ipse l ong axis x Short axis x 0 7854 .

Miscellaneous.

French counts of yarn x E nglish counts .

E nglish counts Of yarn x 08 47 French counts of yarn .

Mule twist for Indian andAmerican cotton sq. root of counts x

weft x 325 .

R ing frame twist x 40 0.

Mule twist for E gyptian cotton x 3 6 06 .

weft x 31 83 .

R ing frame twist x 36 06 .

doubling twist x 45 .

D egrees centigrade x 18 32 degrees Fahrenheit .D egrees fahrenhei t x 05 55 32 degrees Centigrade .

362 COTTON WASTE .

Winding Frames .

Winding frames of one kind or another are sometimes used

in cotton waste mil ls even if no weaving is done at the firm . The

slow traverse vertical spindle winding frame,or the heavy drum

winder may be used to prepare bobbins or cheeses for the beam

warper when warps are made either i n the Spinning or i n the weav r

ing mil l .

Occasionally cotton waste yarns may be sold in the cheese

form instead of being sold in the more customary forms of Cops or

reeled hanks . Quick traverse winding frames for winding eithersingle or double yarns into cheeses or cones

,may be e i ther of the

spindle type such as the Leeson or International winder,or Of the

drum type such as the machine descr ibed below,Shown in section

,

fig . 90,which the writer recently saw working in a condenser

cotton waste spinning mill,and giving sat isfaction .

Patent Quick Traverse Drum Winding Frame With or WithoutStop Motion. (See fig .

(Messrs . Dobson Barlow .)

Specia lties and Improvements .

In des igning this machine the greatest care has been taken with

regard to the fitted parts,all being machine tooled to template and

i nterchangeable .

The drum shafts and cradl e brackets are carried on one central

rai l bring i ng the centres of these shafts nearer together than hitherto

and therefore econom ising floor space .

The gearing , traverse sl ides and cam are all enclosed in one box

and run in Oil . The pul leys for driving the machine are placed at

the same end Of machine as the cam and gearing .

The cradle for spool , sett ing-on handle,detector box

,and brake

are all carried from one bracket on the centra l rail,and this is of

novel construction combined with the highest efficiency .

The cam is Of improved type,machine cut

,and is capable of

being run at a very high speed i n conj unct ion with a great ly improved light traverse rod .

The stop motion when an end breaks is instantaneous , neveral lowing the broken end to get on the spool , which is very impor tant

when tying the broken end s ing ly .

I t can be adapted to wind cones .

364 COTTON WASTE .

E conomy in cost Of wages .

creeling .

Better tension for doubling or twist ing .

NO threading Of guides .

No stoppages for doffing .

Less ordinary knots and no bunch knots .

at tention required .

stra i n on yarn when wi nding and unwinding .

waste .

FIG . 91.— Section of Upright Spind le W inding Frame, W inding Bottle

shaped and Warpers’ Bobb ins.

Traverse motions‘

for quick traverse winders have been highly

developed,and many good arrangements exist , but the limits of

this treatise preclude their descript ion . Running Off at the edges

is a feature to guard against in winding upon bobbins without flanges .

300 Spindles to 1 m .h .p ; 160 revolutions per min . for tin

cylinders with 10 in . t in rol ler pull eys .

Production might reach 13 lb . per Spindle in a 48 hours’ week

for about 3o’

s yarn,but is vastly dependent on skill of Operative ,

qual i ty of yarn,condition Of machine . Other counts in inverse pro

port ion to counts .

Fig . 91 i l lustrates a section of a vert ical Spindle winder .

PROCESSES SUBSEQUENT To SPINNING . 365

Improved Upright Sp indle Winding Frames.

(Messrs . Dobson Barlow .)

Forwinding yarn from ring frame bobbins , cops, or r ing doubler

bobbins,on to warping bobbins .

The spindles are of the self- contai ned rabbeth principle,placed

in double rows on each side Of the machine,and driven by a 5 in .

t in rol ler ; pol ished steel gu ide plates or adjustable yarn clearer

guides are applied with T- regulat ing screws to each spindle fit ted

to wood lifting rail,brushes forxcleaning the yarn . It is also fitted

with improved mangle wheel l i fting motion,which makes a superior

bobbin for warping . The firm also apply a travell ing apron for carry

ing away the empty ring bobbins to the end of the machine,and

del ivering them into a skip . This saves‘time,and also prevents

breakages . An arrangement is applied so that the tension of the

apron can be adjusted by means Of regulat ing screws . A patent

tapering motion is applied when i t is required to wind on to bottle

shaped single -flanged bobbins . The bobbin boxes are made ofwell

seasoned and selected timber . The creels are arranged for skewers

when winding from cops,spli t wood bushes when winding Off top

of ring frame bobbins,or revolving spindles wnen winding

'

od the

side Of ring frame bobbins or ring doubler bobbins .

Pirn Winders.

The writer has had a good deal of experience with the sol id cop

winder such as shown in Fig . 54 of first edit ion . Cases now exist

in which solid Cops of coarse yarn are made to unwind from the

Cop nose . It is capable Of making solid cops that wil l weave Off to

the limit,but if the yarn is too soft in nature

,ei ther from low twist

or low class of material,there wil l natural ly be breakages . No

shuttle tongue is used and the yarn is withdrawn from the base end

of the cop . The lids for holding these cops in the shuttle may be

either of metal as suppl ied by the Shuttle maker or may be of broad

elastic , the writer’

s experience being in favour of the elastic i f the

two hooked ends are properly made . The spindles and solid cOps

are too heavy for ordinary spindle band driving .

Spinners,weavers , or winders

,accustomed only to mule spun

cops are astounded when they find how readily these sol id quick

traverse COpS will straighten out or ready . You may break such

a cop anyhow and anywhere and i t wil l immediate ly “ ready , the

3 66 COTTON WASTE .

s ecret consist ing i n the quick winding traverse . It is quite possible

to have only one round of bump yarn about 80 yds . per oz . in one

down or one up traverse ; natural ly , the crossings of yarn are thus

made very acute and this prevents interlocking of the threads .

A cam or eccentric traverse is given and the wheel gear may be

a l tered to give the proporti onate rate of traverseg and the writer’

s ex

perience is that sometimes this may be regulated or altered with ad

vantag e . The Spindles automatically are forced up by the continual

building of the Cop diameter on the cone principle , and a point is

final ly reached by which a spindle is pushed outside its driving Slot .

I t is easy to shorten the traverse by a Slotted finger. The he ight of

the sweep or traverse in relation to the cone cup is adjustable and

i t wil l pay to give this feature skilful attent ion .

Some Cloths which use Yarns from Cotton Waste.

Cleaning Cloths—Lancashire and Yorkshire texti le millse specia l ly for Spinning— have most of the machinery cleaning doneby sponge cloths or wipers which wil l re-wash several t imes over .

The extraction of the oil helps to pay for the washing, which , prewar

,was done at the rate of about 2s . 6d. per gross

,fetched and de

livered, but at the time of writing the price has become much higher ,and would be st i l l higher only for the good price just now obtai ned

for recovered oil , which is always the property of the washer . The

processes of Oil recovery by washing,sieving

,tank standing

,with

or without chemical a ids , are of such a nature that i t does not payeven a large mill to wash its own cloths . More usual ly

,the cloth

washing firms a lso spin the yarns and weave the cloths .

For re-washing,cloths are best of plai n weave

,with very l ittle

d ifference i n counts between warp and weft,and these counts from

65 to 120 yds . per ounce . The cloths and Oil are boi led by steam

inj ection .

Soft Sponge Cloths — These may have a very thick twofold weft

and the twist may be 15’

s to 2o’

s or so and Operated upon the

gauze or Leno principle , i nvolving a somewhat costly and compli

c ated addition to the mechanism of the loom .

The Leno weave g ives the requisite firmness and strength to an

Open fabric . The Leno weave is of a l ight Open texture in which

warp threads are twisted partly round each other . Special ly con

s tructed healds or doups”

are used for the purpose . The prin

c iple is often applied to the production of light fancies such as

blouses .

368 COTTON WASTE .

Table- Cloths.

—Quite a lot of condenser cotton yarn forms part.

of many kinds of table - cloth .

Towels appear to absorb more and more of condenser cotton

yarn,owing to the absorbent nature of the yarn and, the extremely

high price of l inen yarns .

Personal towels need to be softer than pot towels .

Both Terry and honeycomb towels may use coarse cotton weft

Flannelettes .

- These absorb a large quantity of cotton condenser

yarns,the full nature Of such yarns giving the warm ,

soft feel ingwhich makes flannelettes feel ful l and soft a fter the style Of wool .

Flannelet te may almost be described as imitation wool .

The wool feel ing is enhanced by “ raising ” the cloth cons ider

ably .

Cretonne.

—Cretonne cloths may Often be distinguished by very

fancy printing effects produced on the cloth . These fancy print

ings are su itable for hang ings and draperies . For the weft low

counts yarn of both the condenser and the preparation styles may

be used . The fulness of quilt ings and flannelettes is not so essent ial

and the waste weft for cretonne fabrics is often irregular . The

weave may be oatmeal , twi l l , plain , or even sat in .

Cotton Blankets— Cotton blankets are used to a large and grow »

i ng extent,and i nvariably require condenser weft because of the

very ful l,soft

,feel and appearance g iven to the cloth by such

weft . They are woven any width required ,and afterwards treated

to a generous ra ising process to bring out the nap as much as

possible .

They are not subj ected to fancy weave effects the same as

quiltings,nor to fancy printing effects the same as cretonnes .

There is perhaps even a closer connexion in the cotton waste

trade than in ordinary cotton betweenxthe Spinner,manufacturer ,

bleacher , dyer and finisher,and this needs encouragement .

If any new cotton is cons idered for mixing with cotton waste

i t is usual ly Indian as this country gives the bulk of the shortest

cotton staples . Much Indian cotton wil l part with its dirt freely .

Mr. Porritt quotes the Indian Trade Commiss ioner as statingthat out of a tota l Indian crop Of ba les of 400 lb . each

the staple :

g. to 1} in’

. is about bal es .

1} to —g1} to

PROCE SSES SUBSEQUENT To SPINNING 369

He continues“ Al l Of this last is mixed and a large proportion of i t would

run from Ato g i n . making a total of ba les .

Before the war Germany took about Of the total Indian

export s Of cotton,whilst the United Kingdom took less than Of

what Germany did ; the bulk of the cotton sent to Germany wouldbe Of the shorter staples .

The condenser mules for counts 4’

s and above are fitted with

a treble Spindle Speed in order to give increased production and

superior qual ity of yarn . The first Speed of the spindles is about

1800 revolutions per minute for 18 i n . of the draw , then the second

speed is accel erated to 2700 revolutions unt i l the carriage is nearly

at full stretch,and the third speed is about 5000 for twisting up .

-

“When spinning 5’

s to 6 ’

s the carriage Will make about

draws per minute , for 7’

s to 8’

s just under 4 draws .

Where coloured yarns are required the common practice is todye i n the raw material . I have seen on the Continent severa l

colours being treated in the cardroom at the same t ime,and the

adoption Of the automa tic feeder to carding engines lends Itsel fto this arrangement .

With reference to the weaving Of the flannelettes,Shawls and

blankets,they are mostly pla i n woven

,but there are some woven

on Jacquard looms to get the figured patterns. Severa l cloths are

double woven which throws up the weft , so that the ra is ing machi nes

can act thereon to the ful lest advantage .

Botany Yarns.

Apparently this name occas ional ly appl ied to some cotton wasteyarns has been obtai ned from the wool t rade

,and appears to have

been more especia l ly appl ied to short wool yarns . It has been said

tha t its very first orig inat ion was from“ Botany Bay The term

is sometimes appl ied to mixtures Of short wool and short cotton or

cotton waste Spun on the condenser system .

Angola Yarns.

True Angola cloth is a l ight cloth made from the wool of the

Angora goat,a native of As ia Minor . As made from cotton waste

or mixtures of wool waste and cotton waste , the cloth is real ly an

imitation Angora .

COTTON WASTE .

Wool Wastes.

There is great variat ion in these wastes but a cotton waste man

is better for having a sl ight idea Of some of them .

N0il. -This is the term general ly appl ied to the Short wool

fibres extracted in the worsted combing Operation . Chiefly of a

white colour , Of 7} i n . or more in length , i t is l ike cotton comber

waste of good va l ue , and may be used for Shawls and blending

materials for worsteds Of various qual it ies .

Mango— A term special ly appl ied to certa in wool wastes such as

obta ined from hard worsted cloth rags and cl ippings .

E xtract—Poss ibly obtai ned from wool and cotton union dis

carded fabrics or rags .

Shoddy.—A term sometimes appl ied to

“ Bump yarns from

cotton wastes , such as for counts 65 t o 110 yds . per ounce . Used

in. wool districts for such wastes as obta ined from hosieries, soft

woollen flannels,and poss ibly flannelettes .

Messrs . Plat t Bros . give the following table

Great Britain.

Yarn Spun.

The figures in this instance inc lude Doubl ing as wel l .

The production per spindle of 32’

s twist has increased as

follows

372 COTTON WASTE .

Opener,followed by a s i ngle beater lap forming scutcher fi tted with

Hopper feeder . Breaker card on the rol ler and clearer principle,

connected by a Scotch feed to the single rol ler and clearer finisher

card . This latter may be on either the ring doffer or the tape

condenser principle . The long condenser bobbins could be taken

direct to ei ther the Cop spinning frame or the condenser mule.

For 6’

s we might use a good dea l of hard waste , such as Cop

bottoms,with card strips and clearer waste . To treat the Cop

bottoms i t would be advisable to use a hard waste machine with

picker cyl inders , us ing from three to six cylinders , the soft waste

being treated at first as per NO . 1 . Scutcher as per No . 1. Cards

as per No . 1,unless we might prefer to use the D erby doubler

instead of the Scotch feeder,in which case the breaker card

would be fitted with a coiler and can del ivery,while the finisher

card would be fitted with a lap feed arrangement . The condenser

mule would probably be the next machine after the finisher card .

For the 10’

s counts hard waste and comber waste might be

used as the raw ma terial,with prel iminary treatment

,as specified

i n Nos . 1 and 2. Possibly some bobbin waste,or new cotton .

For such fine counts either the tape condenser or the slubbing

frame principle could be adopted . In the latter case we might use the

D erby doubler between breaker and finisher cards,and the finisher

card would be fitted with four or six card cans instead Of the con

denser . The cans of sl iver or Slubbing would be taken now direct

to a slubbing frame fi tted with three lines of smal l diameter draft

rol lers . The bobbins from the Slubbing frame would then be taken

direct to the creel of the mule or to a Special ly adapted ring

Sp innmg frame fitted with drawing rollers . I t wil l be noticed tha t

this NO . 3 system is a cross between the proper system of cotton

Spinning and the proper condenser system of waste Spinning .

No . 3 is termed the preparat ion system,

and may give a stronger

yarn and cheaper,but does not g ive as round

,full

,and good

looking yarn as a well - prepared condenser yarn .

Q . G ive a ful l description,with sketches

,of the apparatus you

would use, and of the course you would fol low in making a

test for the amount of moisture in a del ivery of cotton .

A . The use of testing ovens for the somewhat quick testing of

the moisture from smal l samples Of the bulk has i ncreased duringthe last few years

,but i n the great majoi ity of cotton Spinning mi lls

such apparatus is yet entire ly absent,and rel iance is placed upon

PROCESSES SUBSEQUENT TO SPINN ING . 373

l ong established methods,in which no apparatus whatever is used .

In such cases i f i t is required to tes t for moisture , a good qual ity of

c otto n is taken— possibly 100 lb . or SO— and exposed for several

hours i n a very warm pos it ion, or it may be sometimes simply

spread out i n a thin layer on one Of the ordinary mil l floors,the

percentage of moisture being determined by weighing before and

a fter exposure . Specia l ovens heated by gas , steam ,or electricity

are used to a fa irly large extent i n one place or another for testingthe moisture in cotton or cotton yarn . In a famil iar example the

oven is heated by gas , the heat from which passes through the

narrow chamber which surrounds the real oven ins ide which the

c otton is placed ,SO that the cotton may not be scorched by actua l

contact with the directly—heated portions Of the oven . A pa ir of

finely- adjusted sca les is mounted upon the oven

,with the weights

outside and the cotton pan i nside the oven , so that the material is

weighed while actual ly ins ide the oven,both before and after ex

posure to the heat . Only sma l l samples of the cotton or yarn are

taken— say 1 to 2 lb .—with exposures varying from 30 to 90 min . at

a temperature of possibly 220 to

Q . How are the qualit ies Of American and Egyptian cotton

graded? How are the standards fixed from year to year ,and how does grade affec t. price

A. The leading grades Of American cotton are Ordinary,

G ood Ordinary Low Middl ing Middl ing Good

M iddl ing Middling Fa ir These are sub-divided into

hal f and quarter grades by the prefixes Strict,

”Fully

,

”Barely

Thus,for ordinary ,

“ Stri ct ordinary equa ls 31 grade higher ,Ful ly ordinary grade higher

,

“Barely good,ordinary grade

above ordinary . The E gyptian names are sl ightly different,thus

Middl ing ,Middl ing Fa i r

,Fa ir

,Good Fai r , Fully Good Fa i r , Good

Fine,E xtra Fi ne . In the above l ists the lowest grades are quoted

first and soon progressively to the highest grades quoted at the end .

G rading in the first instance is done prior to the bal i ng Of the cotton

i n country of growth,but it is afterwards done in L iverpool

,and

each year standard samples are obta ined according to the genera l

standard of the yea r’

s crops , and are fixed and kept by the Cotton

Associat ion . Grade refers especia l ly to the appearance and cleanli

ness of the cotton as dist inct from length of fibre , and natural ly the

better grades command the higher prices , other things being equal .

I t is a common error for the term grade to be taken as applying to

374 COTTON WASTE .

all the properties of cotton ,i ncluding also the length Of fibre

,but i t

is important to remember that these two are quite dist inct .

Q . What is the method usual ly fol lowed in making a purchase

Of cotton ? What amount does the cost Of making the pur

chase add to the cost of the cotton

A. There are various systems more or less fol lowed in purchas

i ng cotton such as buying“Spot cotton

,C.I .F. cotton ,

and

“ Futures cotton . The quest ion asks for the usual method,and

the more usual method of purchasing cotton for actual use consists

i n buying Spot cotton . A manager before going down to L iverpool

would probably have notified his visi t to at least one “ buying broker,

who would arrange for some of the “sell ing brokers

”to have

samples at the first broker’

s Offices ready for selection . In a general

way i t is Of course assumed that the brokers have suflicient know

ledge of the Spinners’ requirements to have only more or l ess suit

able samples on hand . I t is a fundamenta l principle that cotton ,

neither much too bad nor too good for the purpose , is selected .

Length,strength

,and uniformity of fibre are j udged by pull ing

samples between finger and thumb . E xamina t ion and Shaking

may disclose an idea Of cleanliness, while colour , of course , is ob

servable . Beyond the travell ing expenses,actua l purchas ing adds

l i ttle to the cost,the chief i tem being 3

1, per cent . commiss ion paid

by the Spinners to the buying broker . I f payment is neglected beyond the ten days

grace,then 5 per cent . per annum interest may

be added to the cost for excess days. In the case Of E gyptian

cotton deductions from the cost in favour of the spinner may be

made for discount and turning the scal es i n weighing,i f so arranged .

Q . G ive a ful l description of the different arrangements for

feeding the cotton to waste cards , and give a rough sketch

showing the position of the fibres i n each case .

A. This answer must be divided into two chief parts : (1) thefeed of the breaker card ; (2) the feed of the finisher card for cottonwaste . There are alternat ive methods i n !each case . (1) Thebreaker card receives the cotton from the blowroom ,

and i t is a very

common practice to place two full width laps from the scutcher on

a feed lattice at the card so as to Obta i n more uniform work from

the card . Sometimes loose cotton from the blowroom is careful ly

spread upon the feed lattice of the breaker card , while a sti l l moremodern practice to some extent adopted is to place the loose cottoninto a Hopper feeder attached to the card . (2) Coming now to the

COTTON WASTE .

Q . Assum ing you are wrapping the sl iver from a card and find

wide variations i n the same can,where would you look for

the cause,and what would you do to remove the variat ions

A . In such cases i t is very Often the lap that is faul ty ,and we

might first d i rect our atten tion to this poi nt . As a rule,the faul t

i n the lap would be fairly apparen t , but reference could eas i ly be

made to the weighings of ful l scutcher laps usually writ ten down

in the blowroom . I f these appeared suffici ently correct a persona l

check might be kept for a t ime upon these weighings . It would ,

however,be qu ite poss ible in the case under discuss ion for the

weight of a ful l lap to be correct and yet short lengths of the lap to

be quite variable,and a lap could be unrolled , examined ,

and two

yard lengths carefully broken off and weighed . These coming

out errat ically,we Should turn our attent ion at once to the various

parts of the piano feed regulat ing motion,and see that the cone bel t

was sufficiently tight , the various rods and levers clean,free , and

properly adjusted . Such work m ight be carried out both for

scutchers and openers,and i n connexion with the latter the various

mechanisms and act ions of the hopper feeder could be carefully

examined . At the card itself a check could be placed on thes tripping

, g rinding ,sett ing

, and condition of the principal organsand l ikely details .

Q . What reasons can you give for the adoption of the dish feedplate on a card in place Of the two- roller feed ? What arethe faults which may arise if a badly designed plate isused ?

A . With the two - rol ler feed i t was difficult to get sufficiently

near sett i ng of the striking point of the taker - in to the grippingpoint of the feed rol lers i n order to get the bes t resul ts from most

of the cottons used . Moreover,i t was not feas ible to vary the dis

tance Of this s triking point from the feed grip,i n order to suit the

dis tance to the length of fibre being used . By adopting the feed

plate and the one superposed feed roller these disadvantages are

qu i te overcome . The face of the feed plate and the distance of thes triking point are made Short for Indian cotton ,

longer for American,

and stil l longer for the finer s tapled cottons , so that we have here

introduced practically the same principle as Obtains i n connexion

with the d iameters and adj us tments Of draft rollers . If the plateswere badly des igned or not suited to the cottOn and work required

,

there might be cut and broken fibre,or fibre dropping away as

PROCESSES SUBSEQUENT T.O SPINNING . 3 77

waste,or insufficient cleaning of the cotton or i rregular striking Off

by the taker -in teeth upon the cotton or fibres not sufficiently

combed out, just according to the part icular faul t occurring in the

plates .

On the cotton waste card it is more usua l ly the case to employ

feed - rol lers covered with inserted sow - tooth wire i n order to get a

better grip on the fibres . Ordinary cotton cards do not use the

i nserted wire .

Q . Assuming i t is necessary that the production of a card be

increased from 500 to 630 lb . per week,which Of the fol low

ing methods would you adopt ?

(a) Make a heavier scutcher lap and i ncrease the draft Of a

. card .

(b) Keep the same weight of scutcher lap and increase the

Speed of the card .

G ive ful l reasons for your answers .

A. Unless there were some Spec ia l reason to the contrary it

wou ld be bet ter to adopt a modificat ion of (b) , and s imply Speed up

the feed and del ivery parts Of the card by putting on a larger

barrow change wheel or doffer driving wheel in the proport ion Of

500 to 650. This is the more usua l and convenien t method of

increasing the product ion ,and does not a lter the speeds of cylinder

fla ts and l icker - in. If (b) is to be taken as i ncreas ing the speeds

of all parts of thecard equal ly by applyi ng sma ller cyl inder pulleys

or a larger top drum ,then as a rule this would be preferable to

the (a ) method .

Assuming that the draft as per method (a ) were i ncreased in

the same rat io as the weight per yard of lap ,then method (a) would

not meet the case at all, s ince we should be S imply us ing a thicker

but slower feed of cotton ,the latter counteracting the former as

regards production .

Q . Assuming a mill to be using lb . Of cotton per week,

how much of this will be sold as waste G ive the different

classes and probable prices of each .

A. Natura l ly , the total percentage ofwaste made at any particu

lar mill wil l vary from that made at another,even on similar work

,

and so also will the waste made at any one machine . An ap

proximately correct average total for fa ir American cotton may be

about 16 per cent,divided out somewhat as follows Opener

4 per cent , first scutcher 15; per cent , second s cutcher per cen t,

378 COTTON WASTE .

card 45 per cent , draw frames 1 per cent , flyframe 15 per cent ,and Spinn ing 2 per cent .

As regards classes,the beater droppings from the Openers and

scutchers are of very l ittle value as a rule,and the same remark

appl ies to dust and dirt from inside the cages and dust flues .

Coming to the card,a very different state Of things Obta ins s ince

both strips and fly make good usable waste and form‘

a good pro

portion of the usual saleable cotton waste . Worth substantial ly

hal f the price of the raw cotton ,many firms have “begun to use up

their own strippings,andpass the same through a specially adapted

comber . Sl iver waste and lap ends from the card may be s imply

put in the mixing or i n the Hopper feeder without further attention .

From the frames the bobbin waste is the best,commanding a good

proport ion of ful l cost of raw cotton per lh.,many firms now pass ing

their bobbin waste through a specia l roving waste opener,and then

using this waste wi th the raw cotton . It is clean and long in the

fibre . Roller laps,clearer waste , and waste from picking rol lers are

poorer Of the sorts,and rank more on a value parwith that from the

carding engine . Hard waste from mules and ring frames , al though

the most costly to the producer or spinner , is yet of much less

value to the waste purchaser , because Of the difficul ty Of breaking

i t up and reducing back to the loose fibrous condit ion without

much injury to the fibre . Worst sweepings , blowroom droppings ,and cleaning or oi ly waste are among the worst sorts of waste .

As regards amount of waste sold this will vary greatly according to

the amount used over agai n at the same mill ; also it must be

remembered that the bulk of the loss i n the blowroom is practi

cal ly dead loss . Moisture loss is also , of course , dead loss .

Q . How would you remove the fol lowing faults i n scutcher

laps (1) Variations i n total weight ; (2) variations i n

weight per yard ; (3) var iat ions in the thickness at inter

valsA . There is a close relationship

'

between these three specified

kinds of variation,i nasmuch as all three might sometimesmore or

l ess result from certai n specific causes . Imperfect and i rregular

action of the ful l lap knock off motion would give the (a) varia

t ion without necessarily giving the other two,and i f laps Showed

equal weights in two-yard lengths , but unequal i n total weights ,this point might receive attention . Apart from this the whole of

the feeding of the cotton might be too thick or too thin , and give

380 COTTON WASTE .

cards ; and these are the chief reasons for adoption of the flat

card .

Q . Describe ful ly how you would proceed to erect a roving

frame . Make an outl ine sketch of the machine , and mark

the points to which particular attention Should be pa id

during erection .

A . The first thing to do is to obta in the requisi te centre l ines on

the floor,and to mark out the exact pos i t ion of the machine .

There are different methods of obta ining the principa l l ine which

mus t be parall el to the roller beam . One_way is to measure Off

from an existing and adjacent machine when such is avai lable .

A common method is to drop two plumb centre dots from the l ineshaft , but some distance apart, and then connect these centre marks

with a stra ight l ine . The mai n centre l ine is then easi ly proj ected

a t right angles to the first one .

The portions Of roller beam should be la id along the length of

this l ine in the required and indicated consecut ive order , start ing at

the gearing end . The first piece of beam may be loosely connectedto the gearing end frame and ithe first Spring piece put in pos ition

a fterwards the other pieces of roller beam , and the other spring

pieces may be connected up in proper order . One of the par

ticularly important points is now to level up the roller beam end

to end with l i ne and blocks and the Spirit level . The end ma in

g earing beam may now be put in ,and also the beam for the ratchet

c hange motion,fol lowed by the top cone drum and the l ifter shaft

,

and these two must be made to work quite freely . Another point

requiring special care is the exact vertical ity Of the spring pieces,

and then the bottom or spindle ra i l may be attached to these .

Follow up with the lifter shafts,and add the connected cha ins ,

l evers and balance weights for these . Most Of the gearing may

now be completed,the roller weights appl ied ,

and the setting of

roller stands checked .

Before starting up the following points need particular at tention : The Spindles should work freely in the col lars ; the rollers

Should be set the proper distance,centre to centre ; the leng th l ift

should be set,and the dimin ishing rod set level in the middle of

the l ift the proper change wheels should be careful ly worked out ,and then put on ; the roller traverse motion must be set to the

best advantage ; all Spindles,rollers

,and flyers should be sufli

PROCESSES SUBSEQUENT TO SPINNING . 381

ciently wel l cleaned and O i l ed ,and the cone bel t started at extrem

end . Note that the ba lance weights and vertical l ifter racks are all

quiteclear at each extremity of the l ift .

Q . G ive a ful l description of the course you would pursue to

keep carding engines i n good working condition . How

many cards would you expect each g rinder to attend to ,

and how Often would you strip,grind

,and set cards for

carding (a ) good American cotton , or (b) good E gyptiancotton ? Flat cards and fresh cotton only .

A . It might be said that strict and careful attention to cleaning ,oiling , stripping

,grinding

,and setting are the principal po ints

requiring attention in order to keep carding engines i n the bestworking condit ion .

Number of times stripping and grinding vary with differen t

firms withi n l imits'

,but as a genera l basis we might say for a good

class of Egyptian cotton working from 430 to 470 lb . per week , and

taking out a reasonable amount of waste the cylinder might be

stripped three times per day, and doffer two or three . Sometimes

the cylinder is stripped four t imes per day,for Egyptian especial ly

,

i f the cotton be a l ittle inferior,\or a somewhat heavy weight be

carded . For American,

the stripping times are Often much the

same as above,although Often both cyl inder and doffer are stripped

three times per day with a production of 750 lb . or so per week .

There is probably more variat ion in grinding times than in

stripping, and after the introduction of hardened and tempered

steel wire some people reduced grinding times to very few . For

good work,however

,many firms l ike to g ive a light grinding once

or twice per week,or a heavierand longer grinding every week or

two

Forty cards for two men is Often taken as a basis for Egyptian

cotton,with reasonable productions , cleanings , and accessory con

ditions . I t is often the case that a cardroom does not divide out

to a true proportion , and g rinders are required to attend to more

cards at an agreed payment extra per card .

E ach firm or each carder general ly has some system for re

setting the cards , but about every six months may be taken as an

average for a thorough re- setting . In cases of Special trouble with

Specific cards , special attention may be given to grinding and re

setting,and there are some people who will g ive a bit extra

attention to the doffers

382 COTTON WASTE .

Q . Assuming you have a del ivery of 50 bal es of cotton,what

course would you pursue before making a mixing?

A . After entering up the requis ite part iculars of the bal es in the

proper books,the cotton might be examined to see i f up to the

sample from’

which purchased . Then we might decide as to

what proportion it should be mixed and used . When ready forusing the hoops and bagging would be removed , and the cotton

would probably be passed through a hOpper bal e -breaker before

being distr ibuted by the mixing latt i ces upon the proper mixing .

The bale-breaker breaks the large masses of pressed cotton into

smal l pieces , shakes and Opens the cotton in a general way, extracts

a smal l port ion of dust,and gives the cotton to the mix ing latt ices .

To facil itate a proper mixing the cotton bal es may be placed around

the hopper,and portions taken from each bale in succession . It

need hardly be remarked that the bale -breaker is the one machine

through which the cotton passes at the spinning mil l before the

stack mixing is built up .

Q . G ive a clear explanat ion Of the difference between hard and

soft waste,and say for what purpose each is used .

A. Hard waste consists of waste into which the final Spinning

twist has been put,and inc ludes cop bottom waste , spinners

’ hand

waste , weavers, winders , warpers , and reel ers’

waste,possibly

waste from the doubl ing frame,and thrums from the Slasher s i z ing

frame . Included also may be cleaning waste Obtained from pul l ing

bad Cops . Hard waste is general ly used up in waste Spinning mil lsfor the spinn ing of very low counts of condenser yarns

,possibly

2’

s,4

s,6

s, or so on . It is passed through a COp bottom machine

with from three to six or more cyl inders of Special construction,

which reduces the waste to a very loose , fluffy condit ion , after which

it may be made into laps at the scutcher . The rol ler and clearer

card is used,the cotton being passed through both breaker and

finisher cards . The condenser bobbins from the finisher are taken

to the waste spinning mule .

Soft waste may include such waste as crow waste , clearer waste ,s trips and fly from the card

,sl iver waste and lap ends , bobbin

waste,roller lap waste , and even the better sorts of sweepings .

These wastes are used for vastly different purposes . Bobbin was te

is often well broken up by a special machine , and j udiciously

used over agai n i n the same mill . Sliver waste and lap end waste

may be Simply thrown again on the mixing or i n the hOpper at the

384 COTTON WASTE .

i nto its bearings ,the machine levelled up with the aid Of the Spiri t

l evel,and poss ibly more or less of wood packings may be requi red

or first of all the framing may be le velled upon wedges to be after

rds replaced by permanent packing . The beater Shaft must be

set qui te paral lel to the li ne shaft or counter shaft , and then we arequi te ready for marki ng the absolutely exact posit ion of the fan holes

unless this has been previously done . After cutt ing the fan hol e,

the fan pipes may be secured to the frame Sides,and themachine

relevelled,squared

,and screwed up . The fan may now be placed

correctly in posit ion,and

,i f possible

,care should be taken to pro

vide a good - si zed separate flue from each machine to the dust cham

ber . Fan pipes should have very rounded corners or very graduated

bends , and all parts through which the air flows should be made

thoroughly air- tight if the best results are required . Next we may

cont inue the work connected with the pneumatic portion of themachine by fixing up the cage bends

,the dead -air box

,the cages

themselves,and the internal dampers of the cages when such are

used . Follow this up by attaching some of the lap - end,which

need not be a very troublesome job ,as the parts are few and s imple

,

al though heavy . The beater bars and bars for the dead air box may

next be fixed in pos i t ion,fol lowed by the feed rollers and the pedals

Of the regulating motion . Then the bowl - box and its parts,the

regulating box and cone drums,and the geari ng for driving the feed

from connex cone drum . The piano motion should be set to have

the cone -belt at or near centre Of cones when the requi red thickness

of cotton is placed between pedal roller and pedals . Now we areready for fixing up the feed - lattice . Fi nally wemay rig up the ful l

lap knocki ng- off mot ion ,set the lap racks and also the brake

motion,i f not done

,and haVe the feed clutch gearing properly .

During the erection we should particularly take care to have the

proper places air- tight,the machine quite level and square with

shafting , regular motion accurately set,the knocking—off motion to

knock Off at correct t ime , the beater the correct distance from beater

bars and pedals,all revolvi ng parts free and easy in their bearings ,

and all parts properly screwed up .

Q .Assuming you are making lb . weight of 5-hank

rovings per week with waste as .g iven below , what weight

of cotton would you requi re to put into the mixing ?

A. The percentage Of waste at the different processes varies

with the kind of cotton and the special requirements of any

PROCESSES SUBSEQUENT TO SPINN ING. 385

part icular case , but we will assume the following losses from the

American cotton required for 5-hank roving

Opener and hoppers together 5 per cent over all,scutcher

2 per cent , card 5 per cent , drawings 15 per cent , fly- frames 15

per cent over all. Invisible loss is not reckoned in the answers

given below

(1) We require lb . of finished rovings .

6000

98;100

lb . from the drawframes .

913 lb . waste at the bobbin and flyframes .

(2) 60913 x 100

985

927 lb . waste made at drawframes .

(3) 61840 x 100

lb . Of sl iver from cards .

3254 lb . of waste from the carding engines .

(4) 65094 x 100

98

1328 lb . of waste made a scutcher.

(5) 66422 x 10095

3495 lb . of waste made at the Openers .

Q . What course would you follow in the blowing room to keepyour laps regular in weight ? What will cause lap (a) tobe larger in diameter at one end than the other , (b) to beSplit

, (0) to have ragged edges .

A. The first consideration in a modern works blowing roomas regards uniformity in weight of laps is to maintain all parts ofthe piano feed regulating motions in the best working condition

,

and adjusted to the best advantage . E special ly should care betaken that the cone belt Shall not be sl ipping

,one evidence of this

Sl ipping being Often an extra bright appearance Of the centra l

portions of the cone drums . Sl ippage of cone belt,however

,is

Often due to binding of the feed rollers , or feed lattice , or even thecone Shafts themselves . Bowl boxes should be kept clean

,and

often occasional blackleading Of the bowls is advantag eous foreasy working . Wi th modern Openers i t is advisable to note that

the hopper feeder e levat ing latt ice is picking the cotton up uni

formly all across its width . I t need hardly be added that constant

weighing of ful l scutcher laps,occasional weighing of two yard

25

lb . of cotton laps from opener.

lb . Of raw cotton to be bought .

386 COTTON WASTE .

lengths of laps and careful mixing of the cotton are safeguards

aga inst the work becoming very irregular . (a )“ Catches Of

cotton on the machine Sides or on the leaf-bars, or making up of

some Of the holes in the cages , are common causes of laps be

coming cone - l ike in shape . Natural ly the cotton must be spread

uniformly across the width of feed latt i ce,i n order to ensure a

uniform diameter of lap .

(b) Split laps are often due to an excess ive proportion of short

fluffy fibre being present in the cotton . A good many people

consider that lap - l i cking or spl it - laps may be prevented , or at

least diminished ,by having most Of the air current passing through

the top cage , and for this reason many machines have the top

cage of larger diameter than the bottom one . In.many cases

a hinged board is al lowed to rest on the lap during its formationin order to make a smoother and more sol id lap ,

and thus diminish

lap- l icking . Brake motions too heavi ly weighted

,or cal ender

rollers too li ghtly weighted,are possibl e causes Of split - laps .

(c) D efective l inings to the ends of the cages , exceedingly l ightor thin sheets of cotton

,cotton st icking to the sides of the machine

between beater and cages,unlevel feeding Of the cotton

,unequal

distribution of the fan draft,are all l ikely causes of bad selvedges .

Q . What are the most common inj uries caused to the cottonfibre in the blowing room ? How are they caused

,and

how far can they be prevented ?A. Cut fibre may be caused by over - feeding the cotton and

having the beater set too close to the pedals,or to the knife

stripping ra i l , or to the beater bars , especia l ly in the case of long

fibred cotton ,or by running the beater at too high a Speed .

Stringy fibre may be caused by setting the blade beater too

far from the pedals or feed rollers,or by having so weak a fan

draft that the cotton rema ins too long in the beater chamber,or by

having the stripping ra il set so far away that port ions Of cotton

are carried round by the beater .

Stringy cotton,bunched cotton

,and cat tails may be caused

by portions of cotton st icking to the bars or to the machine s ides

between the beater and the cages .

A good deal of waste and bad work is caused by ragged

selvedges and unlevel laps,but these scarcely come under the

des ignation of injury to the fibre . The causes Of inj ury being

indicated,the remedies are sufficiently Obvious. Properly shaped

388 COTToN WASTE .

frame to have made 41 banks , and the price to be 6d. per hank ,the tenter

s wage would be

81 x 6 486 pence £2 0s . 6d.

Q . Assuming that you were about to start up a new ring frame,

describe fully the precautions you would adopt (a) beforeactual ly commencing to Spin

,and (b) during the first few

months of working . Wha t effect will this treatment haveupon the ultimate working life of the mach ine ?

A . The start ing Of a new machine is perhaps the most crit i cal

and important part Of its career,and affords a fa ir criterion of the

skil l and care expended in building the frame,erecting i t

,and the

adjustment Of its various parts . One Of the essentia l features inga it ing -up is to see that the bear ings are thoroughly cleaned and

l ubricated . For some time after starting str ict attention Should begiven to th is feature of keeping all bearings efficiently lubricated

,as

there is Often at first a dist inct tendency for some bearings to heat,

and unless this is checked the bearing may soon be ruined . Care

wil l doubtless have been taken to have all the bolts well screwedup

,but after start ing and working a short t ime some of these may

be tested aga in wi th the screw key . The Spindles should be banded

and a l lowed to run a few hours before piecing up,and after running

it is advisable to have them re-adjusted each to the centre of its

r ing , this being Often done whilst running . It is poss ible a lso that

some of the thread wires might need re-sett ing,and this should re

ceive attention . The roller traverse motion should be set to give

the maximum amount of traverse consistent with absolute freedom

from running Off at the ends and taking care to have the traverse

moving to within equa l distances from each end . The utmost care

is needed i n applying the correct s ize Of twist wheel,builder wheel

,

and change pinion for counts . After a new frame has worked for

about two days the dirty Oi l may be pumped out and the Spindlesre-oiled

,then a week or SO may be allowed to elapse before repeat

ing this Operation , after which it may be sufficient to add a l ittle

fresh O i l every month or so,and to pump the oil out about three

or four t imes annua lly . Attent ion to such poi nts as enumerated

wil l undoubtedly tend to prolong the l ife of a frame and give easy

working of same .

During working the bearings of front rollers may be O i led two orthree times per week

,and other rollers once per week . A l l t i n

roll er bearings should be kept greased,

and then oil ing may

PROCESSES SUBSEQUENT TO SPINNING . 389

suflice once per week . Ful l scouring twice or thrice per annum ,

underclearers picked every two hours,thread boards , ring ra i ls , etc .

,

w iped about every two and a hal f hours .

After working a few months a number of bearings and fixings

may be tested .

Q . State the probable causes of the fol lowing defects i n theaction of the mule

,the effects produced by each ,

and the

remedies you would apply in each instance : (a) Too muchyarn backed Off as the COp builds up (b) carriage comingirregularly upon the catch ; (0) counter- faller too high at

the termination Of the inward run ; and (d) winding underduring the formation of the cop bottom .

A . (a ) The usual cause of too much yarn backing off is having

a s lack backing-Off chai n , and this feature becoming more pronounced as the COp bui lds up impl ies the absence of an automaticbacking -Off cha in t ightening motion and neglect of the spinner to

tighten the chain by hand,or else the automat i c mot ion is not

properly adjusted . A wrong outline of backing -Off snai l sometimes

affects this problem .

(b) I f the carriage is coming irregularly on the catch it may be

due to one of the following causes : (1) E ngine running irregularly ;

(2) too much strap - rel ieving motion at work ; (3) back-shaft box

s t icking ; (4) Long lever sticking or not being changed at the cor

rect moment ; (5) holding-out catch not properly set ; (6) tendencyof winding catch to engage prematurely ; (7) carriage not set

properly square”

or paral lel with the roller -beam (8) front stOpsnot properly adjusted ; (9) back shaft incl ines not used in a correct

and equa l manner ; (10) very slack down -strap combined with too

much strap drawing-Off.

(c) Count er- fal ler too high at the terminat ion of inward run is

usual ly accounted for by such circumstances as the fol lowing

Too much governing mot ion in use too smal l an amount of nosing

motion depression levers not used sufficiently and equally quad

rant arm set too far back wrong profil e of Copping rail .

(d) Wi nding under " duri ng the format ion Of the cop bottom

is often caused by the cop bottom being too heavy , or by the shaper

being stopped during the first several draws,or by want of a

sufficiently defined apex on the copping ra i l or a sufficiently de

velOped first fal l in the ra i l , or by the threads becoming too slack

and the counter wire l ifting too much , or the bottom cone in the

390 COTTON WASTE .

Cop too Short, or the first chase of the fal ler wire being too short ,

or an excessively slack backing-off cha in ,or an excess ive use of

fal l er- eas ing motions,or fal ler weights touching the floor .

Q . D escribe the nature , characterist ics ,and ult imate uses Of

waste yarns spun from (a ) Cop bottoms, (b) low comber

waste,and (c) greasy , soft waste and sweepings . D escribe

also any differences you wou ld make in the spinning of

each variety,and give ful l reasons for these differences .

A . (a) I t is poss ib le to Open clean,prepare

,and spin cop

bottom waste either on the condenser system or the preparat ion

system,but in every case a good prel iminary treatment Of such

waste is necessary in the hard waste breaking machine . For the

most part such waste is made into good , level yarn of 5’

s to 9’

s

counts on the condenser system ,and the yarns are peculiarly well

su i ted for and are extensively used as wefts i n such cloths as quil ts ,bed covers

,flannelettes ,

cotton blankets , and sheet ings . If spun on

the preparat ion system it may be bundled into hanks and used by

makers Of rope and twine,or as warp in certa in classes of goo S

, or

as weft i n cloths which may be printed or dyed,such as towels and

cretonnes . COp bottom waste is much used for cal ender bowls .

(b) Nearly all the remarks given about hard wast e wil l apply tolow comber waste

,except in regard to prel iminary treatment . It

wil l spi n , however , into finer counts Of yarn ,and is often only

mixed in moderate proportions with the other wastes i n order to

improve the mixings , and secure sufficiently good Spinn ing and

yarn . The greater the proportion of comber wast e to hard waste ,the finer the counts— or else better— will be the qual i ty Of yarn . The

uses of the_yarns will be much the same , but in better qual it i es of

goods . For the finer counts— but not necessarily better qual i t ies

the cotton waste may be made into bobbins on the slubbing frameand Spun upon the cotton system at the mule

,this being Often

termed the “ preparation method of waste Spinni ng ,which wil l

give stronger and more solid yarns Of poss ibly finer counts , moresuited for the purposes Of warp or rope -making .

(0) When , however , we come to the use of g reasy ,soft waste and

sweepings , these are frequently spun on the condenser mule into

l ow classes of weft,say,

from 1’

s to 2’

s counts , and used for sponge

cloths , candlewick and lampwick ,cheap flocks for bedding .

The can Spinning frame or the chapon may be used instead of

the mul e for spinning from 1’

s to 2’

s for coarse weft for cleaning

392 COTTON WASTE .

In cotton waste mules on the woollen mule headstock system

Special mot ions are Often employed,such as a jacking-up motion ,

"

which moves the carriage i n during twisting at the head slubbing

motion for regulating the amount of cotton del ivered from the

rol lers each stretch . The creel Of a condenser mule consists chiefly

of long tin drums , upon which the long condenser bobbins are laid

l eng thwise and are unwound by friction .

Q . Assuming you have a mixing of lb . of American

cotton su i table for spinning 40'

s warp , what weight of

finished roving would you expect to get ? G ive a l ist of

the losses and the i r amount .

A. The exact amount Of waste would , Of course , vary with such. i tems as the skil l and care of the workpeople

,the condit ion and

speeds Of the machinery,and— at the scutchers and cards— with

the ideas of the management ; but all these would come withincerta i n l imits

,andmight work out approximately as stated below

Opener 4 per cent .

Breaker scutcher 2

Fin isher scutcher 15Card ing engine 5

D raw frames 1

Flyframes 15Start ing w i th the Opener we may find the waste

,and the

amount of good cotton passed forward from each process by cal

culation as follows

(1)4

480 lb . of waste at Opener,l eaving lb .

good cotton passed forward to card .

(2)5

576 lb . of waste at cards,l eaving lb .

of good sl iver .

(3)1094

1:

n1

lb . of waste at draw frames,l eaving

lb. of good Sl iver .

x(4) 100

ing lb . of good rovings .

A point of particular importance in this connexion is the differ

ence between making the ca lculat ion in detai l as above,and

reducing it to one Operat ion as below . The total percentages added

162 5 lb . of waste at the flyframes,leav

PROCESSES SUBSEQUENT TO SPINNING . 393

up reach 14 75 . We may reason this : if 100 lb . of good cotton

p roduces 14 75 per cen t of waste , what wil l lb . produce

This would Only leave lb . of rovings,whereas the detail ed

c alculation shows the weight of rovings to' be lb .

Q . Would it be poss ible for you to tel l i f any of the wastesmade in the foregoing quest ion were due to bad packing or

faulty ginning ? If so,how would you proceed to de

termine thisA . The dilapidated condition of the wrapper ing or packing of

v ery many of the bal es of American when they reach this countryis notorious . The actual weight or percentage of waste may,

how

ever,not atta i n a high figure as due to bad packing . At any rate

an ordinary inspection of the ba les of cotton when they reach themill should usua l ly disclose fau l ts due to badwrappering

,such

,for

e xample,as sta in ing and dirtying of the cotton . SO far we are

a l luding only to the packing or covering of the cotton bal es . It

is quite possible for cotton to be falsely or fraudulently packed , or

damaged,apart from the quest ion of wrapping , or to rank as un

merchantable cotton,and by the usual contract rules such cotton

may be claimed for by the purchaser at the value Of the sound

cotton at the date of return . Falsely packed cotton may have dist inct excess of the tare

,or portions of inferior cotton may be in

cluded in the ba les,the tare excesses being evidenced by weighing

af ter taking Off,whilst expert examinat ion of the bales after Opening

may disclose other faul ts . Gin- cut cotton is perhaps not as eas i ly

detected as fa lse packing,but may be suspected by extra cleanliness

of Smal l samples,by a distinc t tendency to curl , or by samples

breaking too’

easily between the fingers and thumbs . Natural ly ,its

presence will be manifested in the mil l by increased waste , worse

spinning, and weaker yarn ,

when present i n large quantity . The

spinner may make his cla ims for falsely packed cotton through his

buying broker .

THE END .

INDEX.

ABSORBENT cotton, 262, 263 , 283 .

Action of roller and clearer of cardingengine, 131, 132.

Adjustment of rol lers and clearers, 174 ,175, 176 .

Ang les of beater bars, 36 .

of grid bars for scutcher, 41.

Angola yarn, 369 .

Arrangement of mules, 339 .

Artificia l silk, 266 .

Automatic feeder (Bramwell ) , 136 .

feed of thread extractor, 82.

BAD work and bad Spinning , 53 .

Ba ine’

s loss table 267 .

Ba le breakers , 22.

waste from , 3 .

Ba lling machine,252

Banding , 59 , 251, 283 , 321 .

machine,251.

Bars, Schaelibaum ,11, 12.

Beaters bars,9 , 10 ,

34, 65 .

lecture on , 34 .

of Openers , 9 .

scutchers, 9 .

K irchner, 125 .

Beaming machine,359 .

B lade beater droppings , 6 , 7 .

B lanket loom,235 , 236 .

B lankets , cotton. 234 , 368 .

Blending of the waste from rovingOpener

, 74 , 75 , 76 .

B lowing -room waste, 3 .

B low-room fires, 117Bobbin waste, 85 .

Bobbins, 93 .

Booth’s patents forvacuum cleaning , 24 .

Botany yarns, 369 .

Bramwel l automati c feeder, 136 .

Breakage of condenser ends, 312.

Breaker and finisher cards combinedwith Scotch feed

,158- 60.

card , 133 , 139 .

with double lap feed , 137 .

hopper feeder,136 .

card ing engine, 90.

d imensions, weights, Speeds,etc of, 139 .

Breaking -up machines,110, 111.

Broad - band card feeder, 318.

Brush strips,19 .

Brussels carpet, 239 .

Burr waste, 271.

Buying of cotton , 374 .

CALCULATIONS on waste percent . , 13 -16 ,385 .

Candlewick , 269 .

Can spinning frame (the) , 192, 193 .

Card condenser arrangements , 306-8 ,

Card filleting , 236 .

filleting rules , 311.

fly, 85 .

grinder, Horsfall’

s,133 .

strips , 18 , 85 .

wastes from carding engine, 18.

waste , 271.

Card ing and Spinning machinery,256 .

eng ine, front plate of, 26 - 30.

Hol land '

s web - conductor for, 30.

patent for perfecting Side-ends.

in , 168 .

revolving flat, 20, 21.

waste,18 .

machinery, all k inds of, 256 .

of cotton waste (the) , 130 ,309 .

genera] remarks on the, 178 .

Cards forwadd ing , 94 .

Carpet , Brussels , 239 .

cops,269 .

tapestry , 239 .

Carriage retard ing motion , 353 .

stop -motion , 333 .

Chapon Spinning frame (the) , 197 -202.

China m i lls , parti culars , 356 -8 .

C ity Gu ilds examination questions258 .

C la ims for vacuum system Of strippingCyl inders and doffers of cards , 21.

C leaning and oil ing , 337 .

Cloths , 234 , 237 , 27 4 .

C learer waste, 85 .

from mules, 58 .

C lothing for cotton waste cards, 134 .

C loths using cotton waste yarns , 366 .

Coa l,consumption of, 257 .

Coarse waste yarns, 237 .

(394)

.396 COTTON WASTE .

D ish feed on cards , 376 .

D irt rollers for cards, 177 , 188.

D isposa l of the comber waste, 32.

Double c loth weave w ith waste cottonweft, 238.

doffer condensers , 184 .

dofiing arrangements for cottonwaste cards, 181.

lap method for breaker card , 187

Doublers’ waste,242.

Double wind ing , 242.

yarn on ring frames , 70.

Doubl ing frames,waste and stop

motions for, 63 .

waste in ,263 .

Draught ing of cotton waste on the

waste mule, 203 , 204 , 205 .

Drawback frames, 93 .

motion formule, 224 -6 .

Driving for variable Sp indle speeds

Dropping s from blade beater, 6 , 7 .

l icker- in fly , 8 , 18 .

of cotton waste, 4 , 6 .

Dust extraction and the Wire clothingof a card , 22.

ENG INE waste, 281.

E rect ion of roving frame, 380.

of scutcher, 383 .

E van Leigh on“Fancy ” rol lers, 154 ,

155 , 156 .

E xcess ive use of waste, 77 .

E xtracts from recent consular reports,260, 261.

Extra waste from inferior cotton , 64 .

FACTORY inspectors in respect of cottoncard ing eng ines , 24 .

Fa lse packed cotton , 393 .

twisting machine,Fancy rol ler for card , 154 , 177 , 188 .

Fancy rol ler, the , used in cottonwaste carding , 154 , 317.

(the) , 188 .

Fau lts in laps , 378 .

Feeding methods for finisher card , 140152.

the breaker card (methods of) , 135.

Feed rol lers of card , 187 .

weight ing of, 116 .

F ibre waste, 19 .

Fil leting rules , 311.

Fine counts from waste , 254 .

Finisher card , 156.

four bobb ins ,methods of feeding the, 140.

two bobbins , 258.

with quadruple coi lers, 172, 173 .

F in isher card ing eng ine, 91.

F ire protect ion , 284 .

risk wi th cotton waste, 268.

Fires in blow-room ,117 .

Flannelette, dangers of, 268.

F lat card , 176 .

stripping , 20.

carding eng ine, revol ving , 20, 21.

strips , 18 .

F ly wastes from carding eng ine, 18 , 67 .

Front plate of the carding eng ine (the) ,26

Ful ler details of waste in Indian mil ls,66 .

GAITING -UP of ring frame, 388 .

Gauge and speed of spind le at the

mule, 230 .

Gearing plan formules, 347 .

the, 78 .

Genera l remarks on the carding Of

cotton waste, 178 .

German imports of cotton waste, 1.

of l inters , 1.

Gin- cut cotton, 393 .

Grades Of cotton, 373 .

Grinding and stripping , 309 .

machines, 315.

ropes , 315.

Gun - cotton, 263 , 283 .

H AND cards for stripping cylinders , 30,31.

Hard ends, 253 .

from cop bottom or other hardwaste, 129 .

rovings, causes of, 52.

remedies for, 53 .

waste, 90, 94 , 271.

breaking machine, 90.

Headstocks (the) , 205 .

Heavy driving , 118 .

Hei lmann combers , 32.

cotton comber, 19 .

Hol land ’s web conductor for cardingengines, 30.

Hopper feeder for card , 136 .

feeders , waste from , 3 , 5 .

Horsfall’

s card grinder, 133 .

“ Humbug ,” Fancy and dirt rol lers ,

177.

Humbug rol lers, the, 154 , 177, 188 .

IMPORTED cotton waste, 1.

soft waste, 1.

Improved lattice feed , 152, 153 .

tubular wind ing machine , 243-5.

waste slubbing frame for preparatory system, 189 .

Indian cotton, 65, 368 .

INDEX . 397'

Indian mi l l waste, 66. Mule product ions , 345.

raw cotton, 273 . spinning and waste, 53.

Indicators, 387 . Multipl iers , 361.

Inferior cotton , extra waste from,64 .

Injury to CottOD fibreS, 386 . NASMITH combers, 32, 83 .

Irregular laps, 385 Neppy, dirty and leafy rovings , causesof, 52.

JACKmG -m motions , 331. rovings, remedies for, 53 .

Josephy condensers , 181, 182, 183 . New patent machine, 267 .

K INDS of waste, 280 .

Kirchner beater, 125.

LAP drummethod offeeding thefin ishercard

, 141.

faults, 378 -85.

l i cking prevention, 285.

waste , 67.

Lattice feed for card , 152.

Leaf bar waste, 7 .

Leather-tape condenser (patent) , 166.

Lecture on beater bars, 34 ,

Letter on cotton m il l waste, 84 .

Licker-in droppings , 68 .

fly droppings, 8 , 18.

teeth , 43 .

Link regulator, 129 .

Linters , 281.

Long fibre in flat strips , 19 .

Loose cotton bleaching , 265.

MACHINERY for waste, 371.

p lan of, 219 .

Machinesmore orless used in the trea tment of cotton waste, summaryof, 89 .

with fans , approximate weightsand meesurements of, 113 .

without fans, approx imate weightsandmeasurements of, 113 .

Mak ing of waste in cotton mills, 2.

Manager’

s letter on waste in cottonm i l ls, 60.

Manifold coi ler sys tem,92.

Methods of del ivering cotton waste fromfinisher cards, 161.

feed ing the breaker card , 135.

finisher card , 140.

Mil l planning , 356 - 8.

Mixing of cotton waste, 96 .

treatment,287 .

Mixings , 95.

for waste yarns, 282, 372-5.

Modern roving waste openers, 72, 73 .

Moisture tests , 372.

Mule clearer waste, 58.

defects , 389 .

deta i ls, 39 1.

for spinning waste , 203 , 204 , 205.

headstock , 223 .

OBJE CTIONABLE wastes , 271.

Oil, consumpt ion of,257 .

recovering from greasy cloths, 278 .

O il ing and cleaning , 337 .

O ldham wil low, 92, 94 , 126 .

machine, 102, 103 , 104 , 105.

One- cyl inder machine, approximateweights andmeasurements of, 115 .

Openers for roving waste, 72.

waste from, 3 .

Opening and c lean ing of cotton waste,99

OverloCk sewing machines , 275.

Overlooking and kinds of waste, 252.

PAIR of mules, 339 .

Passage of cotton through waste mu le,205.

Patent automati c feed ing machine forbreaking card ing eng ines , 171.

for perfecting side-ends in cardingeng ines, 168 .

“ leather-tape condenser, 166 .

Pecul iar spinning machines, 192.

Per cent ca lculator, 385 , 39 1 .

Pickering machine for waste, 113 , 114 .

wi th soaper,120.

Pirn winder, 365.

Plan of breaker and finisher cards, 175,176 .

carding and sp inning plant forcotton waste , 219 .

machinery,219 .

P lant for c leaning cloths , 274.

P latt’s condensers, 306 -8 .

Possible systems ofmachinery , in usingcotton waste

, 90, 97.

Preparation system,188.

for waste yarns , 161.

of machinery , 97.

Preparing machine forhard waste, 110.

Process of recovering good cotton fromcarding eng ine strips , 83 .

Production from waste mule, 206.

Productions and spindles , 370, 376 .

of cotton wa ste machinery, 100.

mules, 345 .

Prices of condenser yarns , 248.

cotton waste,247 , 248 .

398 COTTON WASTE .

QUADRUPLE coi ler card , 172, 173 .

Ques tions and answers , 371.

Quick transverse winder, 362.

RAISING machine, 23 5.

Reced ing motion , 331.

Recovering good cotton from cardingengine strips, process of, 83 .

long fibre from card strips, 83 .

Reel ing ,356 -7.

Reelers’ waste , 242.

Remarks on cotton waste carding , 170171.

three- speed driving and wastemules , 215, 216 .

Remova l of stripping dust, 21, 22.

Retarding motion for carriage, 353 .

Reversing motion (the) , 224 .

for spindles, 335.

Revolv ing fiat carding engine, 20 , 21.

Re-washing o f greasy cloths, 277 .

R ing doffer, 162.

frame for cotton waste, 230.

frames,double yarn on , 70.

Roth’s patent aspirator, 33.

Round of movements in cotton wastemu le, 217

Roving s containing slubs, causes of, 53defects in ,

Roving frames for band ing , 318 , 322.

waste,315.

waste, 69 .

opener, 74 , 78, 79 .

another make of, 79 .

Opening , 72.

treatment of, 71.

Rol ler card , 266 .

stands, 328-9 .

Rol lers and clearers , adjustment Of,174 , 175, 176 .

of card ing engines, 130.

Ropes for grind ing , 315 .

Rubbers for condensers,162, 164 , 165.

SCHAELIEAUM bars , 11, 12,

Scotch feed , 3 13 .

for card , 14 1.

method of feeding the finishercard , 141, 142, 143 , 144 .

or cross feed , 92.

Scutcher bars and lap- l i cking (the) ,

127 .

droppings, 6 .

for cottonwaste (the) ; 123 , 124 , 125Scutchers , wa ste from, 3 .

Self-a cting mule,222

,223 .

mules, work on , 53 -7 .

Self- actor mule (the) , 203 .

Sewing of cleaning Cloths, 275.

Sheetings , 236 .

Short fibre strips, 19 .

Shutt le pegs,tongues, 24 1

Side ends, motion for cards , 163.sl ivers for cards , 168.

Sing le-beater breaking carding engine,

finishing carding eng ine, 156.

lap-forming scutching machinewith hopper feeder, 126 , 127.

scutcher with hopper feeder, 90.

Six- cyl inder machine, 122.

Skewering of cops,Sl iver waste, 85.

Slubber for cotton waste, 189 .

Slubbing motion (the) , 218-20, 223 -4.

formules, 33 1.

Smith’s roller stand , 328 .

Soaping apparatus, 96 , 118 .

appliance, 119 .

Soap water, 286 .

Soda ash for grea sy c loths, 277 .

Soft-rovings, causes of, 52.

remed ies for, 52.

Soft waste machines,279 .

Soho feed , 152.

Solid cops, 243 .

cop wind ing machine, 243 , 244 .

Sort ing tables, 284 .

Specia l motions,229 .

rol lers, 187 .

Specification of cotton waste card, 133 ,138, 156 .

Spiked cyl inders , 115 .

Spindle and cop ,194 , 195.

reversing motion, 335 .

stop motion , 225 .

Spindles and productions, 206 .

Sponge Cloth loom,237 .

or cleaning cloths, 234 , 237 .

Squeez ing of grease c loths, 277 .

Stretched rovings, causes of, 53.

remed ies for, 53 .

cyl inders by hand- cards, 30, 31.

dust, remova l of, 21, 22.

Stripping and grind ing , 309 , 381.

by vacuum system ,23 - 6.

of cards, 250 .

fiat cards, 20, 21.

Strips from cards, 18 , 83 .

Stop -mot ion formules, 333 .

Stop -motions for waste mule, 213 , 214 .

Stores, 255, 257 .

Summary of machines, 89 .

wastes, 16 , 17 .

Systems of machinery,90, 97 .

TABLES foi sorting waste, 284 .

Tape condensei s, 163 , 180,Tapestry carpet 239.

400 COTTON WASTE .

W inding frames, 365. Work on self-acting mules (the) , 53,W ire clothing of a card and dust ex 54 , 55, 56 , 57 .

traction, 22. Wrapping of cotton counts at con

covering of cotton waste card , 134. denser, 313 .

Woollen and worsted machines, 256 .

m il l wastes, 271.

Wool wastes, 370. YARN for sewing machines, 276 .

Workmen ,254 . Yarns, V igogne, 260.

ABERDE EN : THE UNIVERSITY PRESS .