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28 May 2014

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Denim exporters shining as retailers look to Bangladesh

Denim Industry Who’s Who

Mr. P. Kasiviswanathan, Picanol India Private Limited, India

Mr. Paresh Chandan, Aru Enterprises, India

Sight, thought, soul. Global Ad Campaign

Launched by Isko

INVISTA and Lenzing Continue collaboration for Super Soft Stretch Denim

Stretch Fabric With Repreve Debuted by Cone Denim

Events

Denim by Premiere Vision, Spain

Pg No. 3

Khadi Denim - For The Denim Lovers Who Care

Show Report

Is over-capacity troubling Indian denim sector?

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Corporate : Campaign

May 2014 03

Source: Menabo.com

DENIM CLUB INDIA

ISKO™ has launched its new global campaign - Sight, thought, soul, where the denim senses embody the innovation spirit. The campaign has been Photographed by Piero Gemelli, and the leading denim manufacturer’s new campaign focuses on black and white portraits, with just one touch of color: the blue denim of the iris.

Eyes accompany vision, primary actors in our interpretation of reality. Eyes also reflect the soul; a soul that, for ISKO™, represents its passion and expertise in denim. This is the core of ISKO™’s new global campaign, a multi-subject collection of portraits that aims to convey the immense power of thought, innovation and empathy that are intimately rooted in the company’s spirit.

The elegant images are in black and white, with the iris of the eyes the only colored element standing out, highlighted in blue denim. The protagonists of the photos, a male and two females, are portrayed alone and together, always looking intensively in the camera and therefore at the observer, establishing a meaningful relationship of closeness and understanding.

Piero Gemelli, architect and photographer has marked the concept with his unique touch to the photos, while the marketing and communication agency Menabò Group has conceived the unique campaign. This is Piero Gemelli’s second

Sight, thought, soul. Global Ad Campaign Launched by Isko

project with ISKO™, testifying to the successfully shared approach that has accompanied the company’s growth.

The models are also an expression of the company’s broad international reach. Regitze Christensen, blonde, with a clean and refined appearance, comes from Denmark, while Ana Sekulic, brunette and determined looking, is from Serbia; Ricardo Dal Moro, the male icon for the campaign, is from Brazil.

The new campaign marks the company’s evolution during 2012-2013 and ISKO™’s renewed strength in speaking “the denim language”, broadening it to the other denim senses and defining ISKO™’s importance as thought leader in the sector.

Marco Lucietti, Global Marketing Director at SANKO/ISKO™ division, claims: “It has been a great pleasure to collaborate with Piero Gemelli for the second time, in order to interpret the ISKO™ change of identity and positioning over the past few years. This campaign is the result of the successful approach leading to the company’s growth and statement in the sector; we believe that this will further boost ISKO™’s presence in the future.”

Image Source: Piero Gemelli, 2014

Image Source: Piero Gemelli, 2014

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Industry - Fabric

May 2014 04DENIM CLUB INDIA

Is over-capacity troubling Indian denim sector?Denim fabric capacity in India has been increasing in the past few years. And although domestic consumption is rising alongside, exports of denim fabric have not increased in a similar ratio. Many companies are setting up new denim plants, while a few existing players are expanding capacities. So, is there a situation of over capacity in the denim industry?

According to Mr. Rajesh Dudeja of Denim Club, India currently has a capacity of one billion meters per annum and a domestic consumption of 600-700 million meters and with exports accounting for around 200 million meters. This leaves a balance of around 100-200 million meters or 10-20 percent of capacity.

Many forward looking denim players, such as Aarvee, Jindal, LNJ, Nandan, Sangam, Sri Lakshmi, have expanded capacity in the last 2-3 years and are continuing to expand capacity. Nandan Denim is expanding from 80 million meters to 100 million meters and Mafatlal Industries Ltd. is in the process of increasing capacity from 25 million meters to 30 million meters per annum.

Newer players have also emerged on the scene like R & B Denims - Surat and Mahak Synthetics - Ahmedabad, while some projects are in the setting up stage, such as those of SEL group and Anubha Industries.

Speaking to fibre2fashion, Mr Dudeja expressed, “The demand and consumption of denim in domestic market has been growing and is anticipated to rise in coming years. However, due to continuous adding and expansion of denim production capacities, the industry has been facing an oversupply situation.”

Mr Utsav Pandwar – CFO of Ahmedabad based Aarvee Denims discloses that there is an

oversupply of denim fabric in the market due to recent expansion and entrance of some new players in the denim industry. “But the demand is growing at almost same pace”, he adds.

Mr Siddhant Sharma, VP-Operations at Rainbow Denim Ltd avers, “There is a supply-demand mismatch in the around Rs 100 per meter denim fabric category particularly made for domestic market, as robust demand mainly in this segment, led to increase of capacity in the last 2-3 years.”

When there is a supply-demand mismatch in favour of supply, the first casualty is margins as there is extreme pressure to reduce prices from denim fabric buyers. For instance, net profits at Aarvee in the quarter ending December 2013 have slipped to Rs 93 lakhs from Rs 2.63 crores in December 2012 and Rs 11.85 crores in quarter ending March 2013.

Mr Pandwar admits that the over-supply situation has affected them too which has also led to a stiff competition in prices, etc.

Mr Dudeja opines that the oversupply situation has definitely affected the profit margins of denim producers and more so for players whose focus is primarily the domestic market.

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Industry - Fabric

May 2014 05DENIM CLUB INDIA

Companies which are also exporting have not been affected as much, since the glut in buying of jeans, seen post Id and Diwali festivals every year, is a local phenomenon.

Mr Siddhant Sharma adds that they visualized this scenario much earlier and shifted a portion of their product mix to the Rs 150 per meter and above segment, so it has not affected them much. Although, he too admits that margins have come under pressure.

Regarding the outlook for the rest of 2014, Mr Pandwar informs, “Consolidation will take another 6-9 months and we are hopeful that things will improve in coming times.”

Mr Dudeja expects the same trend to probably continue and thinks that this over-supply situation is here to stay. “If at all, and whenever, the demand catches up with the supply, more expansion will take place”, he informs.

He adds, “However, all is not yet lost. The players who joined the industry post 2009-10, need to introspect and adapt to the current situation. They might very well need to put in place professional and robust marketing systems as well as modify their product mix and take product innovation seriously, by going beyond using denim only for bottoms.”

Denim exporters shining as retailers look to Bangladesh According to industry insiders diversion of orders from Bangladesh's rivals has opened up new opportunities for local denim producers, potentially helping the country to replace China as the world's No. 1 exporter. The country's denim industry is poised to go for expansion and upgradation to cope up with the increasing demand.

Bangladesh, the second largest producer of denim products after China, ships around 180 million pieces of denim jeans around the world per annum, and has more than 5,000 factories concentrated around Dhaka and the port city of Chittagong.

"Though other segment of garment is facing dearth of orders, denim manufacturers are enjoying good export orders due mainly to an increase in denim consumption across the globe," "Managing Director of Argon Denims Anwar-ul-Alam Chowdhury Parvez told the FE.

He said good price range and quality--the two factors, helping Bangladesh to fast replace China as the world's biggest denim exporter.

Source: Fibre2fashion.com

Bangladesh has become one of the most important centres for denim apparel production and export across the world. In fact, it has come up as the second important exporter of denim apparel to the world market, experts said.

Demand for denim goods has been increasing with the European Union (EU), the US and Russia topping the list in denim importing nations.

A c c o r d i n g t o B a n g l a d e s h G a r m e n t Manufacturers and Exporters Association

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Corporate - Innovation

DENIM CLUB INDIAMay 2014 06

Stretch Fabric With Repreve Debuted by Cone DenimCone Denim has recently debuted CONETOUCH™ with a REPREVE®-

based technology which allows enhanced stretch and natural-like comfort. Developed under the direction of Cone's R&D incubator, Cone® 3D, CONETOUCH fabric introduces soft hand denims with the added benefit of recycled appeal and enhanced performance.

CONETOUCH denim is being introduced this month at Premiere Vision in Barcelona as part of an exclusive launch between Cone Denim and Unifi. CONETOUCH denims are targeted at women's stretch jeans and comfort-stretch jeans for men.

Kara Nicholas, vice president product development and marketing for Cone Denim says "CONETOUCH wi th REPREVE technology brings a new dynamic to stretch denim." She further adds "People connect with their denim and these amazing fabrics have the soft, cotton-like feel we love in our favorite jeans but with added conforming stretch and recovery and a sustainable recycled component."

REPREVE is made made from recycled bottles by Unifi. An average of 8 recycled bottles is used for making each pair of jeans made with CONETOUCH denim.

"We have been working with Cone Denim on the development of this new cotton-like touch technology," says Jay Hertwig, vice president of global branding for Unifi Inc. "Applying this technology to REPREVE makes it possible to offer high quality denim fabrics containing recycled content with synthetic performance and a naturally soft and comfortable hand. This is a very unique product in the market and we are excited to introduce it with Cone Denim."

CONETOUCH denims expand Cone's Sustainblue™ collection of eco-friendly and recycled denims using recycled cotton and polyester, and other sustainable yarns including Tencel®, Flax, REPREVE, and other recycled materials. Innovations come from Cone® 3D, which uses a focused approach to combine over a century of denim expertise with deep science, emerging technologies and market insights to provide customers with sustainable innovations and truly unique product solutions.

Source : Apparel.edgl.com

(BGMEA), better quality and competitive price range more then 66 international brands includes Charles Voegele, G-Star, Jack and Jones, Oliver, River Island, H&M, C&A, PVH and GAP have turned to Bangladesh in the last couple of years for denim product imports.

Jahangir Alamin, President of the Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA), said many companies are going to almost double their capacity.

He added that new export orders for denim goods have surged by nearly 20 per cent when fresh orders for knitwear and other woven products are on the wane.

According to BTMA data Bangladesh currently produces 30 million yards of denim per month against a monthly demand of almost 60 million yards; total investment in the denim sub-sector is Tk 70 billion. The data also shows that around 25 domestic denim makers supply 50 per cent of the demand.

Abdus Salam Murshedy, Managing Director of the Envoy Group, said not only China, but also some other rival countries including India, Pakistan, Vietnam and Indonesia are also losing their market share to Bangladesh for denim goods in the US and EU market. He said the country's manufacturers are producing high quality denim fabric for the world market.

Khandakar Mohammed Saiful Alam, managing director of Nassa Group, a leading garment maker, said many western retailers are turning to Bangladesh to source denim goods. In 2013, exports of denim products to the US and EU markets rose by roughly 25 per cent, he added.

Md. Atiqul Islam, President of BGMEA, said denim orders are being diverted from Pakistan, Turkey and China to Bangladesh.

According to BGMEA in last ten months 2013-14, the country's garment makers exported nearly 150 million pairs of denim jeans in men's and boys category to the world market

Source: Thefinancialexpress-bd.com

Corporate - Innovation

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DENIM CLUB INDIAMay 2014 07

INVISTA and Lenzing Continue collaboration for Super Soft Stretch Denim

I N V I S T A a n d Lenzing, two premier innovators and fiber p r o d u c e r s , a r e c o n t i n u i n g t h e i r c o l l a b o r a t i o n , working throughout

the value chain to bring super soft denim with enhanced performance to consumers. They are promoting new styles with TENCEL® and LYCRA® dualFX® technology from various mills for autumn/winter 2015/16.

Jean Hegedus, Global Denim Director for INVISTA said “We’re pleased to see how the value chain is embracing this concept. These fabrics really address the consumer’s need for soft, luxurious denim that performs and keeps its shape, wash after wash, and wear after wear.”

“Fabric development is at the heart of the innovation strategy for both Lenzing and INVISTA,” said Michael Kininmonth of Lenzing. “To win in today’s market you have to offer something unique, and these fabrics do just that,” he added.

Tejidos Royo of Spain and ADM of Pakistan, two of the mills pioneering this concept, showcased their latest styles at Kingpins Amsterdam and at Denim by PV in Barcelona. According to Panos Sofianos of Tejidos Royo, Royo’s MeSu™ line includes fine, sophisticated denims made with TENCEL® and INVISTA’s LYCRA® dualFX® technology. “With an ultra soft hand feel and fantastic shape memory, these fabrics go a step beyond into the future of textile making,” Sofianos said. Faisal Ahmed of ADM believes combining LYCRA® dualFX® technology with TENCEL® makes jeans wearable all year long. “This opens a whole new segment to us and truly makes denim the 24/7 garment we want it to be,” he said.

Textil Santanderina of Spain and Orta of Turkey will be introducing TENCEL® fabrics with LYCRA® dualFX® technology for the first time this season. Ramon Rios, Commercial Director of Textil Santanderina, indicated they are using TENCEL® with LYCRA® dualFX® technology to get shape retention even in super skinny jeans along with the super soft hand feel of TENCEL® and cotton. “Called 'Suprelast™' our

collection combines the natural hand feel of TENCEL® and cotton with LYCRA® dualFX® technology for the perfect shape and freedom of movement,” Rios said.

According to Ibrahim Gunes of Orta, the most important parameters for premium stretch denim are touch and recovery and that’s why Orta uses TENCEL® with LYCRA® dualFX® technology in their fabrics. “The soft touch and l u x u r i o u s f e e l i n g o f TENCEL® allows us to create a premium look in our denim designs. At the same time, LYCRA® dualFX® technology allows us to achieve superb recovery p e r f o r m a n c e w h i c h i s essential for high stretch denim that has become so popular over the last three to four years,” Gunes said.

From North Asia, both Central Fabrics and Prosperity have created novel options combining these two fibers. Michael Lam, Senior Manager for Central Fabrics, indicated that jeans made from their fabrics with TENCEL® and LYCRA® dualFX® technology are comfortable to wear and retain their shape and fit over time. “The fabric surface is also more elegant, with a premium aesthetic, whether you’re talking about tops or bottoms,” Lam said.

Andrew Olah, advisor to Prosperity, believes the combination of these two fibers allows Prosperity to create fabrics that offer the best in recovery, hand feel, stretch, and strength. “This combination is simply the best of the best and allows us to create the caliber and quality of fabric our customers demand,” he said.

INVISTA showcased garments made from the above mills and others at their stand at Kingpins Amsterdam and Lenzing at their stand at the recently concluded Denim by PV.

Source: Businesswire.com

Corporate - Sustainability

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DENIM CLUB INDIAMay 2014 08

Khadi Denim - For The Denim Lovers Who Care

and pomegranate rind. The extraction of color from these sources, and also the dyeing of yarn, is done at normal temperature. The colored fabric, thus, is completely free of hazardous chemicals, and is safe for the human skin. One variety of fabric is also offered without any coloring, and can be used as such or can be dyed in colors of your choice.

Natural Indigo Dyed Khadi DenimHandmade indigo denim - with natural indigo used for coloring the warp - best suited for jeans, is also commercially available, in weights ranging from 10 oz to 12 oz. The yarn is dyed with natural indigo with 10 dips to give it the proper color depth and for getting the wash effects.

Exclusive Selvedge Denim FabricThe handloom denim fabric is woven on the traditional hand-operated looms, and comes with the much sought after "clean edge" or selvedge, which is formed when the single continuous cross-thread (weft) returns from the edge of the fabric.

For more details regarding khadi/handloom denim, visit http://www.handloomdenim.com.

DM/AW2014/MC002Hand Crafted, worn outKhadi denim jacketin choclate brown withcalligraphy print lining and seal of the signaturebuttons.

A naturally soft, eco-friendly, comfortable to wear, chemical free denim - it does sound unbelievable. However, the reputed fashion designer, Divyam Mehta, recently created a collection of jackets made out of hand-made denim. One of the exclusive handcrafted jacket is seen here, and the picture speaks for itself.

Here is the denim fabric which has all these years lived only in the imagination of fashion designers. It comes with a very soft hand-feel and the high breathability makes it very comfortable to wear.

100% Authentic Handmade Cotton Denim FabricThe entire process of making fabric from yarn is hand-based, involving hank dyeing, hand sizing, hand reeling, hand warping and hand weaving. The handwoven denim is made out of 100% cotton yarn, and is offered in two basic varieties, based on the type of yarn used for producing the fabric:— Handloom Denim : made using mill yarn— Khadi Denim: made using hand-spun yarn.

Chemical Free, Natural ColorsTaking the concept of sustainability further Denim Club has introduced handmade denim which is 100% chemical free. The color used for dyeing the warp yarns is extracted from natural sources, like, the leaves of a eucalyptus tree,

Photo

Court

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: D

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From The Denim Directory

DENIM CLUB INDIAMay 2014 09

Denim Industry Who's Who

Mr. Paresh Chandan, Aru Enterprises, India

Mr. Paresh Chandan started exploring the denim industry from Mumbai in 1986 where he began with a small manufacturing unit making denims for women and kids. He later moved to Bangalore and founded Hard Currency Jeans for men in 1995 and the brand soon became very popular. Hard Currency debuted with Karnataka and Kerala markets, and even

today they are the brand’s biggest markets.

After being a success in South India, Hard Currency has now moved up North, targeting Pan India and also has had success with exporting to the Middle East. Mr. Chandan saw a bigger potential and opportunity for denims in the II and III tier cities in India and exploited this idea.

He has single handedly created and nourished Hard Currency Jeans to become a successful and well known denim brand, producing 22,000 garments per month at present. Having a good foresightedness and tactics to handle the instability of the current market, he has also launched an economic brand under Hard Currency known as “10 Pound”. 10 Pound has been high in demand as well, as it shares the goodwill of Hard Currency and is truly value for money.

Mr. Chandan has a knack for design, quality, presentation and market forecasting. With the base of his exceptional discipline, business values, policies and ethics, he has been able to make a name in the Indian denim industry.

Founder & MD

Mr. P. Kasiviswanathan, Head of Indian OperationsPicanol India Private Limited, India

Mr. Kasiviswanathan is an eminent personality in Textile Industry and is spearheading the Operations of Picanol Group in India. He is B. tech in Textile technology from well-known ANNA University, Chennai, 1983-87 batch followed by M.B.A in Marketing management from Regional Engineering College Thiruchy (TN) year 1987-89.

Mr. Kasiviswanathan has over 26 years experience in Indian Textile industry and has been deeply involved in the spinning, weaving and processing industry. He possesses thorough knowledge of almost all supply sources of textile machinery. All of his experience has been associated with selling of world class imported spinning, weaving and processing machines in India.

Mr. Kasiviswanathan has in-depth knowledge of all India textile industry market and is a close follower of Indian textile policy and implementation. He is well-known in Indian textile industry and positioned in Delhi for the last 20 years.

He has been a member of the Picanol Group (NYSE Euronext: PIC) for the last 20 years and has been head of Picanol India since 2008. His main focus is on sales of Picanol weaving machines, sales of original Picanol spare parts and accessories, the PCB repair station in New Delhi for the repair of electronic circuit boards of Picanol looms and the complete servicing of Picanol.

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Events

DENIM CLUB INDIAMay 2014 10

Show Report :

Denim by Premiere Vision, SpainThe recent edition of Denim by PV, held for the first time in Barcelona was successful. The specialized denim show held in Hall 8 of the Fira Montjuic, on 21-22 May 2014, was crowded with international denim and jeans insiders. Visitors and exhibitors alike appreciated the new location.

Despite many insiders having felt skeptical about the move to Barcelona and the recent debut of Kingpins in Amsterdam, the general attitude that pervaded the show was enthusiastic and optimistic. An international spirit pervaded the event with visitors coming in from Europe, US, Japan and Turkey.

Chantal Malingrey, director, Denim by Première Vision commented at the opening conference "We are not here to gamble or play around. This is a longtime engagement with Barcelona. We decided to move to Barcelona because it is important for the business of the denim community to be on the move and to be alive" He further added "We had checked several possibilities but decided for Barcelona because the city has the perfect mix: it is cosmopolitan, the infrastructure is great and it is about art, design, fashion and lifestyle".

Comfy and earth-friendlyThe trends focused especially on improving performance and visual aspects of already existing denims, while keeping in mind functionality and comfort. Almost every company is launching its own selection of denims that resemble indigo sweatshirt material. Hi-function stretch remains a strong trend and Isko, launched its Isko Mens selection of stretch fabrics that is also recalling attention for women’s jeans employ, also looking for

masculine aspect comfortable fabrics.

Focus also remained on Sustainability -- Bossa presented a new selection of its Re.Set denims made with 100% recycled fibers – 30% is recycled polyester and the remaining 70% is made with recycled cotton. Calik has launched a series of denims made with natural fibers, including one that employs Crailar, a natural fiber similar to linen. Archroma has launched its new and wide selection of eco-friendly dyes – Optisul C – requiring lesser water. Mactec, presented Icelite - its own exclusive technology that “de-colors” garments by using recovered CO2 with a clean, safe and ecological system that enables to save up to 40 liters of water per treated garment. Label manufacturer Label Mark presented its new Mad’ collection of labels and packaging made with a new cellulose material that looks, feels and can be treated and dyed exactly in the same way as leather.

More noveltiesTavex has launched a new stretch denim treated with a special permanent finish that can have an t i - ce l lu l i t e e f fec t on i t s weare rs . TextilSantanderina offered a selection of stretch cotton-Tencel jacquard denims characterized by innovative weaves and optics. Orta developed a new Round Midnight selection of denims characterized by special opaque coatings that convey a smart and cool aspect to fabrics. Denim Valley by Tejidos Royo, through the Fundacion Jose y Ana Royo, has presented a new collaboration with design school IED.

Source: Sportswearnet.com

Image Source :Denimbypremierevision.com

Image Source :Denimbypremierevision.com

DENIM CLUB INDIAMay 2014 11

Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim

Industry - Network

Mr. Mohit Vora, Head of Marketing

Vivaa Tradecom Pvt. ltd., Ahmedabad, India

Mr. Nilay Vora, DirectorGlobe Textiles (India) Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad, India

Mr. Viraf Turel, Partner

E. H. Turel & Co., Mumbai, India

Mr. Gaurav Jain, Managing DirectorPunto Denim, Delhi, India

Mr. Niraj Wadhwani, Managing Director

Vijay Enterprises, Ulhasnagar, India

Mr. Lee Wihongi, OwnerMana Jeans, Cronulla, Australia

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