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14 May 2014

www.denimclubindia.orgKishore Biyani to acquire Spykar for Rs 100 crores

Just Jeans denim recalled over cancer risk

Denim Industry Who’s Who

Mr. Atul Kumar Singh, Ashima Group, India

Mr. Rajan Udeshi, Reliance Industries Limited, India

SS 2015 Denim Collection launched by Mafatlal Industries Ltd.

Wool denim fabric debuted by Woolmark at Blueprint Show

Indian denim industry: It’s all in the jeans

US-Made Premium Denim launched by J.Crew

Events

Kingpins Show, Netherlands

Pg No. 3

A Jeans Company In The Nation`s Denim Capital

Releasing in July, 2014

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Apparel - Collection

DENIM CLUB INDIAMay 2014 03

SS 2015 Denim Collection launched by Mafatlal Industries Ltd.

Mafatlal Industries Ltd., the flagship company of Arvind Mafatlal Group has

launched its “Spring Summer ‘15 Denim Collection” featuring authentic construction and representation of “vintage” and “fresh” looks. The denim fabric range consists of Stretch, Super Stretch, Bi-Stretch and Rigid fabrics ranging from 7.5 oz. to 12 oz in weight, and a wide palette of indigo shades, classic to novel with innovative finishes, representing future trends.

The SS 15 Denim Collection comprises of –— Joggers Denim - A range of Stretch

and Super Stretch, light denim fabrics used in sports and activity wear

— Black Denim - Hues of Greys, Blacks and Deep Blacks which are the rage in Europe

— Print Mania - Fashionable denims with speciality weaves and prints for casual or party wear

— Total Blue - Traditional, Vintage look fabrics for Mens wear

— Comfort Stretch - Caters to the semi-formal look for Smart Office wear

MIL is a producer of value added and fashion denims for the mid and upper segments across India and worldwide and monitors global fashion trend and consumer preferences, developing denim fabrics on these trends. Mafatlal Denim has been present on the Indian denim firmament for over 15 years and has over 250 different varieties of specialty denims, which include mercerized and stretch denims, coated fabrics and organic denims. The denim product range comprises of ring denims, stretch denims and super stretch denims specially for women as

well as coated denims in a variety of colors. MIL offers 30 color shades in denim. The denim fabric weights range from 7 oz. to 15 oz., making them suitable for men’s, women’s and children’s wear collections. Mafatlal denim has an extensive international and domestic marker distribution network catering to global brands like Jack & Jones, Wrangler, Lee, and C&A and leading domestic brands like Killer, Mufti, Spykar and Allen Solly. Mafatlal Denim Limited merged with Mafatlal Industries Limited last year. Mr. Rajiv Dayal, Managing Director MIL has said that the denim manufacturing unit is situated at Navsari in Gujarat. MIL has recently increased its production capacity from 20 million meters to 25 million meters and it plans to increase the production capacity to 30 million meters by 2015. Mr. Rajiv Dayal further stated that overall Indian production of denim fabrics is approx 800 Million Meters per Annum. Out of this, India’s export stands at around 200 MMA and the balance 600 MMA is consumed by the domestic market. Indian denim fabrics market is growing at a rate of about 8 to 12% compounded per annum.

Source : Businesswireindia.comWebsite : www.mafatlaldenim.com

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Apparel - Corporate

DENIM CLUB INDIAMay 2014 04

Kishore Biyani to acquire Spykar for Rs 100 crores

Kishore Biyani 's Future L i festy le F a s h i o n L t d i s buying a 75% stake in the home-grown

denim company Spykar Lifestyle for around Rs 100 crore in an attempt to shore up its fashion and lifestyle play.

Other suitors in the r u n f o r S p y k a r included pr ivate equity players like

India Value Fund and Everstone Capital, but dropped out of the race sometime ago.Avigo, an India focused private equity firm, and its co-investor Metmin Holdings together hold 60% stake in Spykar, while promoter Prasad Pabrekar, promoter holds the rest. Agivo and Metmin had been looking to exit the company for the past two years. It was first reported in February last year that Kishore Biyani was a front runner to snap up the jeanswear brand.

Spykar will be joining Future's current denim portfolio of Jealous 21 and Bare. Biyani currently has 35 fashion brands with a combined turnover of more than Rs 7000 crore. According to unnamed source, Biyani is also pumping in additional capital into the company which will dilute the promoter shareholding.

Mumbai-based Spykar was founded two decades ago and has a strong distribution

presence across 1,000 multi brand stores besides its standalone outlets.

Biyani is making a renewed push in fashion retail after divesting department store chain Pantaloons as part of a debt revamp strategy. He plans to make Spykar a Rs 400 crore brand in the next three to four years from Rs 180 crore currently.

Future Lifestyle has made a slew of investments ranging from online startups to taking operational control in well entrenched home-grown brands. Recently the company took management and operational control of Mother Earth, increasing its stake in the Bangalore-based company to 65%. The move will give Mother Earth the marketing and ramp up muscle to take on its Delhi-based rival Fabindia.

Biyani will also be taking operational control of Delhi based Giovani — a suits and jackets and womens wear brand — that has over 10 operational stores, mainly in the north. This gives Future Lifestyle a strong foothold in to the northern markets where Giovani has a strong client base and distribution network.

Future Lifestyle has also invested in online fashion accessory startup fashion brand Peperone and designer label Mineral by Priyadarshini Rao.

Source: Timesofindia.com

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Fabric - Innovation

DENIM CLUB INDIAMay 2014 05

Wool denim fabric debuted by Woolmark at Blueprint Show

The Woolmark Company will be presenting Wool Denim fabric at this year's Blueprint trade and consumer show, being held on May 8 and 9, at Amsterdam, as part of the larger Amsterdam Denim Days event.

The world is becoming more casual, largely due to busy lifestyles, and consumers are looking for products that can adapt and change with their everyday needs. The Woolmark Company is looking at increasing its market share of wool worn by the emerging segment of consumers who are experiencing this trend towards casualisation and engage with this group which fits into the urban/contemporary category.

Denim is, undoubtedly, one of the most popular fabrics across the world. While wool and cotton blend is not a new concept, improved manufacturing processes and a wider acceptance of denim apparel in both social and work places has given wool the opportunity to have a greater presence in this area. The global authority on wool will be presenting a 'new' Wool Denim at Blueprint that uses exactly the same warp yarn as traditional denim, but replaces some, or all, of the weft yarns with machine-washable wool to deliver a high-performance denim fabric.

Previous attempts to create wool/cotton blends in denim have used an intimate blend of wool with cotton - two fibres which are not easy to combine in a yarn. Yet by replacing some, or all, of the weft yarns with wool, a higher performance and more cost effective fabric can be produced.

Wo o l D e n i m i s strong and versatile like regular cotton denim, but has the extra resi l ience, e last ic i ty, odour resistance, moisture management and most importantly warmth found in wool. Wool adds an extra element of warmth even in the coldest of winters and takes the initial chill out of putting on regular denim jeans. Wool Denim fabrics are also finished the same as traditional denim, so consumers can rest assured style will not be compromised.

"Wool traditionally has been used in more formal products," explains The Woolmark Company Managing Director Stuart McCullough. "So to enable wool to regain some of its market share from cotton and take advantage of the trend towards casualisation, The Woolmark Company has worked closely with the manufacturing industry to develop new processes that can provide unique and casual effects on wool fabrics.

“By incorporating some wool with the cotton, Wool Denim jeans feel warm to the touch, even in winter, and when wet feel drier on the skin and more comfortable than 100 per cent cotton, highlighting wool as a fibre for every day."

Source : Fibre2fashion.com

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Industry - Apparel

DENIM CLUB INDIAMay 2014 06

Indian denim industry: It’s all in the jeansThe Indian denim industry has been showing continual growth trends over the years and the market is only expected to see some exciting moments ahead

Arvind Singhal, founder, Technopak Advisors, he expresses “What India needs is more denim brands. Today, denim wear is going deeper into the rural markets. Not only men, even teenage girls in rural areas are opting for denim wear. This calls for more brands that can cater to the demand.”

According to a recent study by Technopak Advisors, the denim market in India is set to nearly double to over Rs 13,000 crore by 2017. The boom will be fuelled by not only an increasing demand from small cities and rural areas, but also acceptance of the fabric at workplaces, the study adds. The denim market is estimated at 300 million pairs of jeans, and is projected to grow to 550-600 million by 2015, reveals Technopak.

Factors driving the growthIndia currently produces 1 billion metres of denim fabric per annum. The demand is largely dependent on metros and mini-metros which contribute to about 50% of the market share in denim wear. Tier II and III cities contribute only 16% of the market share in denim wear and have tremendous scope for expansion. Hence, major brands across India are eyeing this market.

Rajiv Dayal, MD of Mafatlal Industries, believes a favourable demographic profile, expansion of retail in the country, rapid growth in tier II and III cities, availability of global fashion brands like Zara, Levi’s and M&S in the country and denim wear endorsements by Bollywood biggies are behind the boost in the domestic market. “New denim product categories like children’s wear, lifestyle fashion products, formal office wear and furnishings will also drive the growth,” he explains.

The Retail ScenarioKavindra Mishra, CEO, Pepe Jeans India, feels this is one fabric that will never completely go out of fashion. “The denim market in India is growing at a very fast pace, with the market for branded jeans constituting over Rs. 2,000 crore in the country. India is growing at the rate of 10-15% per year,” he adds.

Levi Strauss India has consolidated and strengthened its franchisee portfolio in the past 12 months. The company has opened new flagship stores in key locations, including smaller cities. “We have bolstered our presence in key national and regional chain stores through shop-in-shops, and extended the availability of our brand in smaller cities through an entry-level, price-point range called ‘My First Levi’s’,” says Sanjay Purohit, MD, Levi Strauss India.

Future designsKeeping in tune with the times, brands are now offering innovative products. Wrangler, has come up with ‘silver shield’ denims, providing protection from odour-causing bacteria, making it an ideal companion for long rides. Wrangler is also offering ‘water-repellent denim’, making it a comfortable wear while on a holiday or during trekking.

Anshul Chaturvedi, marketing head, Wrangler India, says, “Water-repellent denims are not plastic, but ‘breathable’. We have also launched abrasion-resistance denims called ‘tough gear’. As the name suggests, it has four times the strength of an original denim.”

For Kedar Apshankar, COO, Peter England, the next big thing around denims is ‘sustainability’. Some of the company’s collections include ‘Workblues’, which come in various shades of blues; vintage jeans; coloured jeans; ‘oxygeans’, which save up to 80 litres of water per pair in its manufacturing; and ‘Misteans’, which is a washed jeans with a misty and iced look.

Some brands are also focusing on treatments, distress techniques, coatings and washes of denims.

Source: Financialexpress.com

Apparel - Collection

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DENIM CLUB INDIAMay 2014 07

A Jeans Company In The Nation`s Denim Capital

Jeans have cemented their place in the American lexicon, wearing them is easy — making them is a harder task.

With the thought that these pants could often be overpriced for many customers, Corey Epstein started a 20Jeans, initially as a e-commerce site in Los Angeles in 2012. The idea was to offer quality denim for men at low prices.

“Living in Los Angeles, the denim capital of the world, we saw great-looking denim all the time, but we began to wonder why or how premium denim usually costs $180 or more. As we started to dig into the process, we soon realized there had never been a direct-to-consumer premium denim brand,” said Epstein, the company’s CEO and Creative Director.

They started with men’s because, they understood the customer. Now the startup has grown after spending time learning the fashion industry, specifically the intricacies of making denim, the company is rebranding and expanding.

Rebranding as DSTLD (pronounced “distilled”), the company will offer ultra-high quality men’s and women’s jeans.

“As we got deeper into the business, we became more acquainted with the inner-workings of the industry. Soon, we were much less interested in volume, and more interested in exploring higher-end options. We wanted to create the most premiere, quality jean possible,” said Epstein. “We want to provide comfortable basics that look crisp, clean, and modern.” he adds.

The jeans range will retail in the price range of $65 to $105, and be available for purchase through their e-commerce site.

“Standard retail for this type of product is $300+ from a lot of premium brands. We will focus the majority of our denim collection in the $65-$85 range, but we will offer a handful of super-premium and limited edition lines.”

Source: Forbes.com

Website: www.20jeans.com

“People have become more interested in sustainable and conscious consumption,” said Epstein. “This conscious consumer, as we like to call her, wants fewer, better things from brands that speak to her stylistically.”

Los Angeles was a perfect place to found a company like this because it’s a mecca for denim.

“Honestly we found the denim business because we were in L.A. Seventy-five percent of the designer jeans sold in the world are made in Los Angeles. While a lot of clothing manufacturing has been shipped offshore, high-end denim manufacturing stayed in LA. High-end jeans are complicated — there are different treatments, washes, distressing and elaborate designs and L.A. has the most robust infrastructure.”

Industry - Academia

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DENIM CLUB INDIAMay 2014 08

US-Made Premium Denim launched by J.CrewJ.Crew has expanded into the premium denim game with the launch of their new line Point Sur Denim. Tom Mora, Head of Women's design at J.Crew, explained their expansion into premium denim, the name and more. "We're always looking for those things that excite us, that make our hearts beat faster, and denim kept coming up. It felt like the right thing to have this brand that's part of our company but stands on its own, its own name," Mora said.

Explaining about Point Sur's origins Mora said "We're so vested in doing beautiful, classic things with a twist and denim is a big part of that. Quality is such an important part of what we do-this is really the premium stuff. We are working with the best premium cottons from the US, from Japan, from Italy. It's really using the best of the best."

The idea is to elevate the successful J.Crew styles, like the boyfriend jean, to a place that doesn't have to appeal to everyone and the collection comprises of:

— The Cropped Jean— The Slim Stacker Selvedge Jean

Source : Broadwayworld.com

Just Jeans denim recalled over cancer riskA product recall has been issued by Just Jeans after high concentrations of a carcinogenic dye was found in some of its jeans.

The Australian Competition and Consumer Commission

(ACCC) tested clothing items for azo dyes after a tip came from the National Industrial Chemicals Notification and Assessment Scheme.

Over 121,000 items were recalled in total - approximately 1,500 have been sold in New Zealand stores.

"The ACCC identified a number of items as containing unacceptable concentrations of the hazardous dye," the ACCC said in a statement."While consumer exposure to hazardous azo dyes is likely to be very low, the associated cancer risks give cause for concern."

Although the dye used is not banned in New Zealand, but expert authorities have classified

Source : 3news.co.nz

— The Hightower Skinny Jean— X-Rocker Boyfriend Jean

The Point Sur jeans retail prices range from $198 to $288 compared to J.Crew Denim ranging from $115 to $168. "We still love our J.Crew denim, but it definitely reaches a broader audience. Point Sur is aimed at die-hard denim lovers. They have played with proportion, with rise, to make it really unique and special." Mora went on to say, "Point Sur allows us to speak to the denim customer-not the J. Crew customer who likes denim but the customer who is a denim fanatic."

them as carcinogens and recommend that exposure be minimised.

The following items have been recalled over dye risk sold in Just Jeans stores around New Zealand and online:

— Junior girls jeans size 8 to 16 – dark purple colour, line: 168462, code: 45223, date: 05/2013

— Junior girls zip ankle skinny jeans 8 to 16 – dark navy colour, line: 168463, code:

45223, date: 05/2013— OMM Junior boys pants skinny cargo

pants size 8 to 16 – forest green colour, l ine: 168849, code: 45223, date: 05/2013— OMM Junior boys cargo shorts size 8 to 16 – khaki green colour, line: 168867

Customers who purchased any of the recalled items should stop wearing the product and return them to a Just Jeans store for a full refund.

For more information customers can contact Just Jeans on 0800 444 006 or email justjeansproducts@justjeans.com.au.

Website : www.jcrew.com

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From The Denim Directory

DENIM CLUB INDIAMay 2014 09

Denim Industry Who's Who

Mr. Rajen Udeshi, President (Polyester Chain)Reliance Industries Limited, India

Mr. Rajen Udeshi Rajen graduated in Commerce from Bombay University and is qualified in Cost Accountancy from Institute of Cost and Works Accountants of India. During the course of years, he has also attended various specialized courses in Management organized by INSEAD -

France, IIM - Bangalore and MIT Sloan - USA.

Mr. Udeshi has an experience of over 30 years and started his journey with Reliance Industries Limited in 1984. Today he holds position as President Polyester Chain in Reliance.

Mr. Udeshi is primarily responsible for Petrochemicals Business and has contributed largely to Reliance to become a global leader in Petrochemicals. In addition, he continues to shoulder several other corporate responsibilities like mergers and acquisitions in India and Overseas, expansion and debottlenecking.

He is President – Association of Synthetics Fibre Industry and Director – Recron Malaysia Sdn. Bhd. He also heads RPCM, Kuantan, Malaysia (erstwhile unit of BPCM).

Mr. Udeshi was honored by the Institutes / publishers as Best speaker of this Industry.

Mr. Atul Singh, Director (Technology & Business Development)Ashima Group, India

Mr. Atul Singh is a B. Tech. (Textile Technology) from V.J.T.I., University of

Bombay. He has experience of over 30 years in the field of Cotton

Textiles.

He started his career with Bombay Dyeing and worked there for nearly a decade, as the

sourcing head for all major raw materials like Cotton, Manmade Fibers & Yarns.

For Last 2 decades Mr. Singh has been associated with Ashima Limited in various capacities

in the areas of their operations like Purchase, Production, and Product Development &

Marketing. Currently he is the Head of Operations and designated as Director (Technology

& Business Development).

M/s Ashima Ltd. is one of the foremost manufacturers of Cotton Fabrics like Denim, Yarn

Dyed Shirtings, Bottom weight & Fusible Interlinings. Almost two-thirds quantity of its

production is exported directly or indirectly to niche brands & retailers of EU, UK & USA.

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Events

DENIM CLUB INDIAMay 2014 10

Show Report :

Kingpins Show, NetherlandsThe first edition of the Kingpins show set the go for a series of events taking place in the Dutch capital from May 7-10, 2014. They are all focused on denim and jeans, and part of the Amsterdam Denim Days initiative to be held both at Westergasfabriek and through the city’s streets and shops, involving both insiders and consumers (stay tuned on our website for further reports and updates).

Though final results are not available yet, but the Kingpins show was very lively and the atmosphere surrounding it very optimistic, creative and busy. The event presented 40 top quality denim, trimming and fiber manufacturers and finishers, including Bossa Denim, Candiani Denim, Denim Valley by Royo, Orta Anadolu, Tavex and Textil Santanderina. Other exhibitors included Invista, e3 and Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili and specialized denim and fashion schools from the Netherlands.

Access to the event was through invitation by exhibitors and after final approval of the show’s organization. Most visitors came from the Netherlands and other Northern European countries.

The Westergasfabriek, a vintage industrial circular building, provided a unique atmosphere as well as the friendly and - somehow - intimate mood, suiting the denim insiders’ attitude.

The show also included a series of conferences and events. One of them was the round table “WTF is Premium Denim?” focused on what’s next in the future of premium denim and how that can match the pursuit for top quality products, exclusivity, environmental issues and a modern consumer and retail approach. The round table was attended by Andrew Olah, Founder, Kingpins, Alberto Candiani, Global Manager of Candiani Denim, Jason Denham Founder of Denham, Panos Sofianos Creative Director Denim Valley by Tejidos Royo and Maria Cristina

Pavarini Senior Features Editor, Sportswear International.

Jean Hegedus of Invista presented the results of a new consumer study carried out by Invista, showcasing how the modern consumer evaluates jeans. A major result was how young consumers are no longer considering denim as a fashion trend, but as a regular component of their wardrobe. Also interesting was the fact that out of the 3.000 international consumers interviewed, the Dutch own the most denims per capita (about 11 pair each).

Another round table dealt with sustainable cotton and involved Patrick Laine, Chief Executive of BCI, Naomi Stevens, Global Head of Acceptance for Seeds at Bayer CropScience and e3, and Liesl Truscott, Ddirector of Farm Engagement of Textile Exchange.

Trade show founder Andrew Olah also announced the dates for follow-up edition of Kingpins Amsterdam in October (28 to 29), once again taking place on the grounds of Westergasfabriek

The October 2014 edition of Kingpins Amsterdam will also stage the first Global Denim Awards in collaboration with HTNK, the Amsterdam-based fashion recruitment and consultancy firm, and the House of Denim foundation, a platform for craftsmanship and innovation in the denim industry. The award event will be sponsored by e3 cotton and will involve about 7-8 young talented denim designers from around the globe who will create capsule collections in collaboration with global denim mills. Contestants shall focus on design, innovation and sustainability and will present their collections during a catwalk show. A jury of specialized denim insiders will select and award the best collections.

by teampeterstigter.com for

by teampeterstigter.com for

Source : Sportswearnet.com

DENIM CLUB INDIAMay 2014 11

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Industry - Network

Mr. Chandan Keshri, Denim Designer

Gesture Apparels Pvt. Ltd., New Delhi, India

Mr. Himanshu Pant, Head - NorthPepe Jeans, New Delhi, India

Mr. Santojyoti Bhattacharjee, Sr. Manager - Marketing

Oswal Denims, NOIDA, India

Mr. Jitender Virmani, DirectorAjooni Storage Systems, New Delhi, India

Mr. Suresh Mehta, Proprietor

Pranshi Engineers, Ahmedabad, India

Mr. Vikas Aeron, FounderAeronians Attire Pvt. Ltd., Delhi, India

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