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Mook Jong

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Build Your Own

Wooden DummyCarlos Colorado

Wing Chun Kung Fu Council

Copyright (C) 2001 WCKFC www.wckfc.com All Rights Reserved No part of this book may be reproduced in any form whatsoever, whether by graphic, visual, electronic, film, microfilm, tape recording, or any other means, without prior written permission of the author, except in the case of brief passages embodied in critical reviews and articles.

Published by Wing Chun Kung Fu Council in cooperation with Grandmaster Ip Ching Distributed by: WCKFC 545 E. Tabernacle St George Ut 84770 www.wckfc.com Printed in the United States of America

CONTENTS

About The Dummy Selecting The Proper Wood Building The Body Building The Arms Building The Leg Particulars Of A Proper Dummy Finishing The Dummy Setting Up The Dummy The Measurements

9 11 12 23 26 29 31 32 34

introduction

ABOUT THE WOODEN DUMMYThe Mook Yan Jong is, in many ways, the trademark of Wing Chun training. It is a vital key of a practitioners skill. In order to properly train and become proficient, one must have a wooden dummy that properly represents correct lines of force, and that has the correct amount of spring. There are several ways to make a Mook Yan Jong. These instructions assume that you already have some proficiency in using tools, and working wood. Please read the instructions in their entirety before you start making your wooden dummy, so that you may have a basic idea of all that is involved. As always, remember to use common sense, and be conscientious of safety measures; wear safety glasses, etc. Following these instructions will leave you with a beautiful and functional, heirloom quality wooden dummy. And it will provide you the correct angles, as taught by Ip Man, through his son Ip Ching.

chapter one

SELECTING THE PROPER WOODThe first step in building a good wooden dummy is selecting a wood that is both functional, and beautiful. It must meet the required measurements. In choosing a piece for the body, one has different options. One may decide to use a natural log from a variety of trees, or perhaps a laminated and milled log from the wood of choice. Most practitioners choose to use hardwood, however, experience shows that a lodge pole (pine) log, which is more readily available, will hold up excellently against years of use; many hesitate to use a pine log because of the inevitable checks and cracks on the wood. Although it is important to find a log without excessive cracks that might distort the angles on the dummy, the checks on a thoroughly cured log do not affect the function of the dummy. Some even like the look of wood better with a few cracks to add character. One always has the option of filling in the cracks with wood putty if the cracks are thought of as an eyesore. Opting for pine rather than hardwood will make the project all the more affordable, if that is a concern. As for the limbs and crosspieces, the wood must be a hardwood, for example, oak, teak, maple, etc.

chapter 2

BUILDING THE BODY

This is a must so that your dummy can withstand the tremendous amount of power and impact that it will recieve. The first step to building the body of the Jong is to cut the log to the desired length. The neater the cut, the less one will need to sand at the end of the project. Be sure to also choose the face or front of the body, taking into account the amount and size of checks running through it.

The next step is to mark a vertical midline down the front of the body, then a line on the top end of the dummy that extends from the first line, through the core line of the body, all the way to the back.

Using these lines as the main guides, draw where the holes for the three arms and the leg will be, as shown on the plans. A very suitable angle is achieved if when marking off the top two arm holes, one allows there to be a 3/16 gap between the inside of the hole, and the vertical midline of the dummy, or a 3/8 gap between the holes. This is a suggestion that will greatly improve the usefulness of the dummy. Note from the plans at the back of this book that the two top armholes must cross the transverse plane seen on the top of the dummy. It is crucial to not make these two holes parallel to each other. Follow the next steps carefully in order to avoid such a mistake.

Lay the body horizontally. It is important whenever drilling a hole, to be sure that the body is level.

Center the topmost armhole when seen from above. Do NOT place the dummy with the vertical midline in the center when seen from above, offsetting one armhole to each side of the center of the body, as shown in this photo.

Using a long 1-1/2 boring bit, drill a pilot hole, which will be the center of the armhole, for the first and topmost arm all the way through the dummy. Such a bit will produce a nice, clean, and straight hole; and it will save you much chiseling, but if a bit that size is unavailable, you may use one of a smaller diameter.

Next, Begin to carefully chisel the square shape of the hole and continue chiseling down all the way through the body.

Great care must be taken while chiseling, in order to keep the hole from wandering off from where it should be. If very long chisels are unavailable, youll have to draw the shape of the hole on the back of the dummy. Use the pilot hole that you drilled, to determine the exact position of the hole, and once youve cut in as far as your chisel will take you, start the same process from the back of the dummy. Your two holes, pertaining to the same arm, should meet in the middle.

Once youve completed the first and topmost armhole, rotate the dummy, centering the hole for the second arm. Follow the procedure as you did for the top armhole.

Be aware that since there is no distance between the bottom of the first armhole, and the top of the second, the two holes will literally meet in the middle of the dummy, creating a diamond shaped passage from one hole to the other.

Repeat the process for the last armhole in the same way as the two previous steps.

The hole for the leg on the Mook Yan Jong, must be slanted at a 14 slope. To achieve this, your pilot hole must be made using a wooden guide. One can easily be made by drilling a hole with the boring bit into the end of a 3x 2x 2 block of wood.

Then, using a miter saw, cut off both ends of the block at the prescribed 14 angle.

Now place the guide on the log as shown and commence drilling your pilot hole. Once youve drilled a couple of inches into the body of the Jong, you may set aside the guide. At this point, the first couple of inches on your hole will serve as a guide as you drill the rest of the leg hole. If your boring bit is of a small diameter, you may wish to drill a couple of pilot holes.

With a pilot hole drilled, chiseling out the rest of the hole is much like chiseling the armholes, except one must be careful to create this hole with the 14 angle. The wooden guide you created is useful in this process. Use the guide by laying it on the surface of the body, at the top of the leg hole and begin chiseling out the hole.

Then move the guide to the bottom of the hole and use the back edge of the guide, begin chiseling out the bottom of the leg hole. This process will help you start the leg hole at the correct angle. With the holes for the limbs in place, one is ready to make the holes for the crosspieces that will hold up the Mook Yan Jong.

First draw a line perpendicular to the line youve drawn on the top of the body. Then extend this line down the side of the body.

Mark the holes as shown on the plans at the back of this book. Be sure that the holes are off centered and toward the back of the dummy. You cannot, however, use a 1-1/2 boring bit. Youll have to go with a smaller one. Drill a pilot hole and chisel out the corners as you did with all the previous holes.

A common concern for people who own a Mook Yan Jong, is finding a way to anchor it, so that it does not slide from side to side on the crossbeams. Some use blocks of wood on either side of the body to keep it in place. A simple and more cosmetically pleasing way is to insert a couple of dowels on the back of the body, that will fit into notches cut out of the crossbeams. On the plans for the back view of the body, you will see two holes; one is found slightly over 7 down from the top, and the other one a little over 43. Use a 5/8 boring bit, and drill only halfway through the dummy. As you drill in, if you look into the side hole for the crosspiece, you should see about half of your dowel hole is invading the hole for the crosspiece. Then, insert and glue a 5/8 dowel into the hole you drilled, use a coping saw to cut off the excess, so that the dowel is flush with the body. The process is the same for the bottom dowel hole.

You are now just about finished building the body, and the only thing left to do is to use a router to round off the edges on the top and the bottom of the dummy. Sanding them down instead works just as well, but it takes somewhat longer.

chapter 3

BUILDING THE ARMS

When it comes to building the limbs for a Mook Yan Jong, here are some things to consider. A lathe is by far the simplest way to make an arm. Without a lathe one has to carve out the round arms with a plane or by some similar method. It proves extremely difficult, and usually ineffective. If a lathe is not available, or, if you feel unskilled in the use of one, a simple solution is to find a good cabinetmaker in your area, and showing him the plans for the limbs, ask him to produce a set for you. He will be able to quickly do all the work on the arms and leg, and hand them to you ready for you to do the finishing work. Many times, this is the sensible thing to do. If you, however, have