zoe romano

of 24 /24
Barcelona, July 2012 From open source branding to collaborative clothing Zoe Romano @zoescope @openwear_cc

Upload: fad-fostering-arts-and-design

Post on 07-Mar-2016




0 download

Embed Size (px)


"Openwear.org: from open source branding to collaborative clothing" - Open Design / Shared Creativity Conference. Barcelona, 2012


Page 1: Zoe Romano

Barcelona, July 2012

From open source branding to collaborative clothing

Zoe Romano@zoescope


Page 2: Zoe Romano

In 2005 San Precario collective based in Milan organized an action to highlight the exploitation of workers in the fashion system

★ We created a fake fashion designer and managed to insert it in the official calendar of Milan Fashion Week

★ We presented a brand identity and the immaterial reality of her existence.

★ A collection of allegoric outfits expressing our experiences of work and, at the same time, showing our skills

★The action involved 200 workers and creatives living and working in Milan

Precarity in the Fashion System

Page 3: Zoe Romano

What to do next

After the Fashion Week and the successful action we decided to create a no-profit association to

★ keep reflecting on work in the creative industries - over-production

★ being active on experimenting self-production and craft - understanding quality

★ start a reflection on intellectual property, open-source and branding - value Fashion garments are not protected by copyright, only the brand is protected by trademark

Page 4: Zoe Romano

Oh! We have a Trademark

Brand built to appeal

Values Cultural mix - Controversy -


Brand as symbolic apparatus to gather relations toward

consumer culture

Brand expressing who is nurturing it

ValuesSharing - Social innovation - Flexicurity not precarity - Alternative economies

Brand as tool to promote new values in society

Page 5: Zoe Romano

The Fashion System: a polarization

Big Brands Fast Fashion

Page 6: Zoe Romano
Page 7: Zoe Romano

A new trend: the rise of DIY

Page 8: Zoe Romano
Page 9: Zoe Romano

The values, the imageries and the desires expressed by our brand are not manufactured to foster consumerism and based on exploitation but

to empower a network of small producers and promote a different kind of fashion based on collaboration, sharing, short supply chain and else.

Page 10: Zoe Romano

A Metabrand is not a Certification

A Metabrand is a bottom-up brand created buy a peer-reviewed network of small creators and

consumers who produce value for the brand and benefit from it at the same time

Page 11: Zoe Romano

EDUfashion network was formed by: Poper (Slovenia), Ethical Economy (UK), Università Statale Milano (IT), Copenhagen Business School (DM), Fashion University (Slovenia)

★ Research on the Open Design and p2p fashion

★ Prototyping the community in 2010

2009 Let’s go EU application

Page 12: Zoe Romano

Key point of experimentation

• Define the networked artisan as a new worker

fashion designer ------->networked artisan<------------ crafter/artisan

(highly immaterial) (highly material)

• Brand Open Source Copyright (Creative Commons License, GPL, etc.),

• Manufacturing becomes a distributed process (makers/manufacturers)

• Copy as a legitimate resource Fashion doesn’t protect the technical specification of the garments.

• The online community as a new Public Space

• Enterprise goes social: Social goals are primary, business is a way to achieve them

Page 13: Zoe Romano

The new role of the freelance designer: she inhabits the global spaces of online communities and shares locally projects and infrastructures

Page 14: Zoe Romano


LOCAL HUBS(social enterprises)

EDU INSTITUTIONS(universities, schools,

learning centers)Suppliers

Page 15: Zoe Romano

★ Building and online and offline community to share knowledge, find support and collaborators to define a new model for crafts.

3 shared resources

Page 16: Zoe Romano

★ A series of Collaborative collection with an open-source brand

★ Prototypes freely downloadable which members can produce and sell, benefiting from the social innovation created within the community.

Page 17: Zoe Romano

Openwear is open-source

★ A collective brand made open-source by a license

★ The pattern and the logo become a common of the community


Page 18: Zoe Romano

- Download

- Produce

- Customize

- Label with Openwear

Page 19: Zoe Romano

Peer-reviewed Network

Page 20: Zoe Romano
Page 21: Zoe Romano

WORKSHOP - Make it with the laser!

Page 22: Zoe Romano
Page 23: Zoe Romano
Page 24: Zoe Romano

Making it together is better than making yourself