Professional Hardwood Maintenance

Technical Manual

Table of Contents

Identification of Flooring Types 2

Equipment/Products Needed 2

Inspection of the Floors 3

Evaluating Damage 4

System Descriptions/Expected Outcomes 8

Intensive Cleaning 9

1. Heavy Duty Cleaning

2. Neutral Cleaning

WoodGlo™ Option #1 11

WoodGlo™ Option #2 12

Testing for Wax or Polish 14

1. Adhesion Test

Repair Scratches with StreetShoe® 275 15

Advanced Coating Tips for Experienced Technicians 16

After Coating 17

Post Coating Timing 18

Page 1 Table of Contents

© 2013 ServiceMaster Clean. All Rights Reserved.

Do not reproduce without permission from ServiceMaster Clean.

Identification of Flooring Types

Ask the customer. They might actually know what brand it is and if

it is factory finished or site finished.

Any floor that is site finished is definitely not laminate.

Move your bare hand across a portion of the floor. If you can feel

the individual grains in the wood using your hand, you probably do

not have laminate flooring. Laminate flooring will have a smoother

texture than that of an engineered or solid hardwood floor.

However, some new factory finishes on engineered flooring are

also quite smooth.

Look closely at your floor. Get down on your hands and knees if

you have to and take a close look at the floor itself. A laminate

hardwood floor is composed of fiber board and the layer that looks

like wood is actually an incredibly detailed photograph. Hardwood

floor, on the other hand, is actual wood. Upon closer inspection

you will be able to easily tell if you're looking at a photograph of

wood or actual wood.

Pull a floor register off and look at the edge of the flooring, or go

into a closet and pull up some of the quarter round (be sure to

replace it) to see the edge of the floor.

Products & Equipment

Needed

WoodGlo™ Automatic Floor Scrubber

Hard Surface Tool, Hand Brush or

Doodlebug Pad

Microfiber Cleaning Pad and Microfiber

Application Pad

Clean empty 5 gallon bucket (for premixing

cleaning solutions)

Several clean towels

Wet floor signs

T-bar applicator or ¼” nap paint roller

10” painting pad (to cut in the edges) and

paint roller tray

Masking tape and plastic sheeting (to

protect uncoated areas)

Heavy Duty Cleaner, Neutral Cleaner,

Renewer (Option #1)

Tykote® Bonding Agent (Option #2)

Arcylic Test Kit

StreetShoe® 275 Finishes with catalyst

(Option #2)

PH test strips

Nace care bucket for dirty microfiber mops

Booties

Spray maker (Optional)

Latex gloves

Protective eye-wear

Furniture coasters/felt pads

Page 2 Identification of Flooring Types

“

“ 4) Pre-clean a small area of floor.

Apply a small amount of DryClene or mineral

spirits to a cotton ball.

Place cotton ball on the floor in area of suspected

wax.

Allow to sit for 2-3 minutes.

Using your fingernail, scratch the wetted area and

see if a residue peels off. Look closely, this could

most likely be a wax or acrylic finish.

Neither Renewer nor StreetShoe® will adhere to

this surface without proper and thorough

preparation, but it can definitely be cleaned.

Buffing with a roto with a white pad or carpet

bonnet will be your safest option.

Inspection of the Floors

It is extremely important that a careful inspection of the floors be done,

taking note of the following items listed below. A mistake due to

carelessness in examining the floors on the front end could have very

expensive repercussions on the back end since the average installation

cost for a hardwood floor ranges from $8-$10/square foot. Be sure to

use the inspection sheet for the WoodGlo™ System.

Steps of the Inspection Process

1) Identify flooring types.

Refer to previous section—Identifying Floor Types.

2) Note any existing problems.

\\\

3) Determine previous maintenance products used by testing for

wax or acrylics.

-For acrylics– follow directions in Acrylic Test Kit.

-For waxes– follow directions below.

Note that you should not use either of the

recoating products under these conditions:

Bare Floor – the floor will clean fairly well,

but you will most likely create grain raising

or fuzz on the surface. Stains could likely

penetrate pretty deep into the wood. It is

recommended that a professional

contractor be contacted to sand and

refinish the floors.

Wax on Floor – the wax on the floor will

inhibit adhesion of both the Renewer and

StreetShoe® products if it is not properly

and thoroughly removed.

Laminate Wood – if something goes

wrong, there is no way to remove the

product without potentially damaging the

floor.

– Bare wood – Water damage

– Pet stains – Indentations

– Nail holes – Deep gouges

– Scratches – Cracked boards

– Discoloration – Other

Some additional talking points to cover with the

customer:

Find out what the customer has done

in the past to maintain the hardwood

floors (dust mopping, damp mopping,

any professional service, etc.) This

could help identify the causes of

damage.

Discuss customer expectations (see

customer expectations section of

sales manual).

Page 3 Inspection of the Floors

Evaluating Damage

TYPE OF

DAMAGE

LEVEL ONE

ON THE COATING

LEVEL TWO

LIGHTLY IN THE

COATING

LEVEL THREE

IN COATING BUT

NOT IN THE

WOOD

LEVEL FOUR

THROUGH THE

COATING AND IN

THE WOOD

LEVEL FIVE

HEAVILY DAMAGED

COATING IN THE

WOOD

Scuffs

Easily removed

with cleaning. No

damage to the

finish.

Removed with

cleaning. May

need buffing or

Renewer.

Scratches

Easily removed

with cleaning. No

damage to the

finish.

Removed with

cleaning. May

need buffing or

Renewer.

If somewhat deep

but not in the

wood, a light

sanding may be

needed.

Scratches go

through the finish

and into the wood.

Scratches go through

the finish and into

the wood.

Gouges

Gouges go

through the finish

and into the wood.

Gouges go through

the finish and into

the wood.

Discoloration

(pet stains)

May be removed

with Heavy Duty

Cleaner.

Lightly sanding the

affected area may

be needed.

Heavily discolored

finish. Sand and

refinish.

Wood is actually

deeply discolored.

Replace discolored

boards.

Loss of finish

Moderately worn

areas. Ideal for

StreetShoe®.

Heavily worn all

over. Grain texture

can be felt.

Heavily worn all over.

Grain texture can be

felt.

Water damage Blushing or light

discoloration.

Heavy grain

raising.

Grain raised and

warped boards.

Loss of gloss

May be soil on the

surface dulling the

finish. Clean with

Neutral Cleaner.

Clean with Neutral

or Heavy Duty and

to apply Renewer.

Moderately worn

areas. Ideal for

StreetShoe®.

Finish essentially

gone on most of

the floor. Sand

and refinish.

Finish completely

worn off and non-

existent. Sand and

refinish.

Loss of color

Could be scratches

into wood, or worn

areas. Possibly

touch up with stain

markers.

Large areas of

missing color could

be worn areas.

Sand and refinish.

Large areas of

missing color could

be worn areas. Sand

and refinish.

Page 4 Evaluating Damage

Evaluating Damage (Continued)

TYPE OF

DAMAGE

LEVEL ONE

ON THE

COATING

LEVEL TWO

LIGHTLY IN THE

COATING

LEVEL THREE

IN COATING

BUT NOT IN

THE WOOD

LEVEL FOUR

THROUGH THE

COATING AND

IN THE WOOD

LEVEL FIVE

HEAVILY

DAMAGED

COATING AND

WOOD

Delamination

Finish losing

adhesion. Sand

and refinish.

Finish losing

adhesion. Sand

and refinish.

Indentations

Light dents like

scuffs repaired with

Renewer, possibly

several coats.

Moderate dents

require light

sanding and touch

up with

Recommendation

Clean & Renew the

floor (Up-sell

refinish).

Clean & Renew the

floor (Up-sell

refinish).

Clean & Refinish

the Floor with

StreetShoe®. May

need light sanding

in places.

Recommend professional sand &

refinish as floors have extensive

damage.

The following page contains photo examples of floor damage.

Page 5 Evaluating Damage (continued)

Examples of Damage

Water Damage—Level Five Water Damage—Level Four

Loss of Finish—Level Three Scratches—Level Three

Delamination—Level Four Scuffs—Level Two

Page 6 Examples of Damage

Examples of Damage (Continued)

Delamination—Level Four Loss of Color—Level Three

Pet Stains—Level Five Scratches—Level Three

Gouges—Level Four Dents—Level Four

Page 7 Examples of Damage (continued)

System Descriptions/Expected Outcomes

INTENSIVE CLEANING SYSTEM - Aggressively scrubs the

floors to remove a buildup of dirt and contaminants. This

can be done alone as a routine maintenance procedure.

Aggressively cleans: dirt, grease, hair, dust, built up residue,

contaminants.

Scrub with Automatic Floor Scrubber and Heavy

Duty Cleaner

Repeat scrub with Automatic Floor Scrubber and

Neutral Cleaner

Tack with Microfiber Cleaning Pad and Neutral

Cleaner

WOODGLO™ #1–A combination of the Intensive Cleaning steps and a quick and easily applied coat of

Renewer. This system removes dirt from the floor and restores a uniform sheen.

Aggressively cleans + refreshes the floor to a uniform sheen with Renewer.

Scrub with Automatic Floor Scrubber and Heavy Duty Cleaner.

Repeat scrub with Automatic Floor Scrubber and Neutral Cleaner.

Apply Renewer with a microfiber applicator pad.

WOODGLO™ #2–A combination of the Intensive Cleaning Step and StreetShoe®, a very durable protective

coating.

Aggressive cleaning + refinishes the floor to a uniform sheen of Semi-Gloss, Satin, or Super Matte, + provides a

durable protective coating.

Scrub with Automatic Floor Scrubber and Heavy Duty Cleaner.

Repeat scrub with Automatic Floor Scrubber and Neutral Cleaner.

Apply Tykote® with a Microfiber Applicator Pad per directions.

Page 8 System Descriptions/Expected Outcomes

Intensive Cleaning—Step 1

Step 1—Scrub with Heavy Duty Cleaner

Heavy Duty Cleaner is a high alkaline, aggressive cleaner that will

easily remove trapped-in dirt and contaminants. Heavy Duty Cleaner

is the first step in the two-part Intensive Cleaning process:

1. Vacuum all loose dust and dirt from the floor.

2. Clean the floor using the Automatic Floor Scrubber and Heavy

Duty Cleaner solution:

a. Mix 1 part Heavy Duty Cleaner with 4 parts water in

solution tank.

b. Apply an even amount of solution to the floor with the

Automatic Floor Scrubber using the manual feed valve

to control solution flow. Do not allow solution to

puddle. While applying solution, vacuum and brush

should be operating. (See Automatic Floor Scrubber’s

manual for complete usage instructions.)

c. While applying solution, make sure to pay special

attention to corners. Use a clean mop or Hard Surface

Tool and Heavy Duty Cleaner solution to clean corners.

d. Repeat the procedure in each area of the floor until the

entire floor has been cleaned. For stubborn marks, dirt,

and shoe marks, use a moderately abrasive Doodle Bug

pad, brush, or sponge moistened with Heavy Duty

Cleaner. Rubber or latex gloves are recommended to

prevent skin irritation.

3. Empty soiled solution from the recovery tank into a sanitary

sewer such as a toilet.

***NOTE: If a floor is in excellent condition and not particularly dirty, you can forego using the Heavy

Duty Cleaner and start with the Neutral Cleaner through the machine, then proceed to the application of

the Renewer. However, with the application of the StreetShoe® finishes, you must follow the recom-

mended steps using Heavy Duty Cleaner.

Page 9 Intensive Cleaning—Step 1

Intensive Cleaning—Step 2

Step 2—Scrub with Neutral Cleaner

Scrubbing with Neutral Cleaner is the second stage of the Intensive

Cleaning process. It is designed to neutralize the floor and remove

residue left from the Heavy Duty Cleaner. The two cleaners are

specifically formulated to remove different types of contaminants from

your floor and may not be combined into a single treatment.

1. Clean the floor using the Automatic Floor Scrubber and Neutral

Cleaner:

a. Mix 1 part Neutral Cleaner concentrate with 4 parts water

in solution tank.

b. Apply even amount of solution to the floor with the

Automatic Floor Scrubber using the manual feed valve to

control solution flow. Do not allow solution to puddle.

While applying solution, vacuum and brush should be

operating. (See Automatic Floor Scrubber operator’s

manual for complete usage instructions).

c. While applying solution make sure to pay special

attention to corners. Use a Doodle Bug or Hard Surface

Tool and Neutral Cleaner/water solution to clean corners.

d. Repeat the procedure in each area of the floor until the

entire floor has been cleaned.

2. Empty soiled solution from the recovery tank into a sanitary sewer

such as a toilet.

***NOTE: You do have the option to apply

Neutral Cleaner with a microfiber flat mop

for faster production rates. However this

could result in too much solution being

applied to the floor, slowing the dry time

and possibly raising the grain of the wood.

At ServiceMaster Clean, we highly

recommend using the manufacturer’s

recommended process of using Neutral

Cleaner through the automatic floor

scrubber.

Page 10 Intensive Cleaning—Step 2

WoodGlo™ Option #1

STEPS 1 & 2: Intensive Cleaning Process (Heavy Duty Cleaner and Neutral Cleaner)

STEP 3: WoodGlo™ Renewer

Rock the product several times to mix contents.

Squirt WoodGlo™ Renewer on to the floor and spread evenly across the floor with a clean microfiber pad. Work

in small sections and smooth the product out in the direction of the wood grain. Coat the entire room to ensure

an even appearance.

One quart of Renewer should cover 500 square feet. DO NOT OVER—APPLY.

A second coat may be applied after 2 hours.

Allow the floor to dry for at least 1 hour before walking on it with socks.

Furniture may be replaced after 24 hours and regular foot traffic may resume.

Allow 24 hours before replacing rugs or cleaning with wood floor cleaners.

Check SMClean University for the WoodGlo™ training for application techniques.

Page 11 WoodGlo™ Option #1

Water-Based Urethane Finishes

Water based urethane finishes are quickly becoming the industry standard for wood flooring protection because of their

many benefits.

Quick cure times mean that you can put the floor back into use faster.

Low VOC (Volatile Organic Compound) finishes are considered less harmful to the environment.

Innovative nano-technology particles make these finishes some of the most durable coatings for wood flooring protection.

WoodGlo™ Option #2

STEP 1+2: Intensive cleaning process (Heavy Duty Cleaner and

Neutral Cleaner)

STEP 3: Tykote® + Top Coat

TyKote® replaces the messy process of sanding or screening wood

floors. TyKote® acts as the bonding layer between the existing floor

and StreetShoe® 275.

Apply an amount of TyKote® to an area of the floor

approximately 3 inches wide by 4 feet long and use a clean

Microfiber Applicator Pad to spread it out to a thin, uniform

coat. Work around the floor until all areas have been coated.

Be sure that every area of the floor intended for recoat has been

wetted with TyKote® . Any missed spots may result in poor

adhesion of the topcoat.

Allow TyKote® to dry (approximately 1 hour under good

conditions) before proceeding to the next step.

TyKote® should be dry to the touch. Do not wait longer than 6

hours before applying the topcoat or the effectiveness of TyKote®

will diminish. If for some reason more than 6 hours lapses, it is

advisable to reapply the TyKote®. It is not necessary to repeat the

cleaning steps in this case as long as the area has remained clean

and dry during the elapsed time.

STEP 4: Top Coat

MIXING

Use a stir stick to re-disperse any settlement and rock in the

container several times.

While stirring finish, slowly add one 3-ounce bottle XL Catalyst

per gallon of StreetShoe® 275.

After catalyzing, allow 5 minutes of “sweat in” time before

application.

APPLICATION

T-bar Application: Pour a 3 inch tall by 4 feet wide puddle of

top coat along the far wall and use a T-bar applicator to apply

a uniform coat to the floor. Apply the finish with the grain of

the wood. Work carefully but quickly as water-based finishes

dry rapidly. Maintain a wet edge at all times.

***NOTE: It is important that only a very

thin, uniform coat of TyKote® be applied

(>2,500 sq.ft./gallon). Thicker coats will

serve no useful purpose and may in fact be

detrimental to your results as a whole. The

paint pad has less of a tendency to leave

applicator marks or puddles.

***NOTE: Make sure to feather out turns

made by the T-bar. Try feathering turns and

cutting in behind the T-bar with a 10” paint

pad. DO NOT CUT IN THE EDGES OVER A

FINISH THAT HAS BEEN DOWN MORE

THAN 5 MINUTES. Also, use the paint pad

when backing out of a room. The paint pad

has less of a tendency to leave applicator

marks.

Page 12 WoodGlo™ Option #2

WoodGlo™ Option # 2 (continued)

Roller Application: Another method of coating uses a 1/4” nap roller

designed for smooth surfaces. Pour a 3 inch tall by 4 feet wide

puddle on the floor. Place the roller in front of the puddle and then

pull it back about 4” until the roller is saturated. Now push the roller

through the initial place where it was set down and feather up off

the floor. Continue to work across the floor and maintain a wet edge

at all times.

One gallon of StreetShoe® should cover 500-700 square feet.

If the floor is in relatively good condition, only one coat should be

necessary. If desired or if floor receives heavy traffic, a second coat

may be applied once the initial coat is dry (approximately 3-4 hours).

The second coat can be applied within 24 hours of the initial finish

coat without any further preparation besides tacking dust.

Allow the floor to dry for at least 3 hours before walking on it with

socks.

Furniture may be replaced after 24 hours and regular traffic may

resume.

Allow two weeks before replacing rugs or cleaning with wood floor

cleaners.

Check out the WoodGlo™ training course for application techniques

on Service Connection.

Page 13 WoodGlo™ Option #2 (continued)

Testing for Wax or Polish

Paste wax: When testing for wax, first lightly clean the

area with Neutral Cleaner. Using a small amount of

mineral spirits on a clean, white cloth, rub it on an area

of the floor that has not been exposed to high traffic.

If a discoloration or film appears on the cloth, or a

residue comes up while scratching with your fingernail,

then paste wax is likely present and a recoating system should not be used. The floor will either need to be re-waxed

or resanded.

Acrylic polish or acrylic floor waxes: mix 1/4 tsp. of Heavy Duty Cleaner, 1/4 tsp. of household ammonia in 8 ounces

of water. Apply a few drops of this mixture on the floor in a corner of the room. If the spot turns white, acrylic wax is

most likely present. Clean the floor with Heavy Duty Cleaner and then recheck. Continue this cleaning step until the

polish has been removed. If you are unable to remove the acrylic polish in this manner, the coating system should

not be used.

If the floor tests positive for acrylic after performing the Acrylic Test, this floor is a great candidate for the Intensive

Cleaning and Option # 1—WoodGlo™ Renewer. However Option #2—WoodGlo StreetShoe® should NOT be used

on the floor.

Testing for acrylic using the Acrylic Test Kit should be performed at the commence of every job.

We have had success removing some waxes by adding 1 cup of ammonia to the Heavy Duty Cleaner solution.

ADHESION TEST

The Adhesion Test is a simple method to make sure of finish compatibility when recoating floors. ServiceMaster Clean always

recommends performing a test by recoating an area, then checking for adhesion to make sure the system will be successful.

The test area should be about the size of a playing card.

Perform the same recoating system procedures that you will use on the floor in the test area.

After drying overnight, cover the test area with a 4 inch section of masking tape. Step firmly on the tape with your

weight, then quickly rip the tape from the floor.

Examine the tape and the floor closely for any removed finish.

If the finish remains on the floor and not on the tape, your recoat most likely will be successful. If the majority of

finish is removed by the tape, then you will need to evaluate another recoating or re-sanding method.

*** NOTE: Do not use a coating system on floors

that have been previously maintained with wax or

polish without proper and thorough removal.

Page 14 Testing for Wax or Polish

Repair Scratches with StreetShoe® 275

Use a fine abrasive paper (180 grit or finer) to smooth out the

scratch (1/2” to 1” wide) and gradually taper out to the regular finish

surface. If the scratch has exposed a different color than the floor as

a whole, the color could be matched with a suitable color treatment

such as Minwax paint pens. Check with your customer as to his or

her preference. Test the system by staining and finishing a separate

piece of wood (you must use the same type of wood as exists in the

floor) and compare it to the color of the floor. Wax-based color

sticks MUST NOT be used to match the color. The stain or dye used

must be fully cured to manufacturer’s specifications.

When color is satisfactory and the area is dry, rebuild the repair area

to better match the rest of the floor by applying thin coats of the

Basic Coatings finish to the area, one coat at a time. Use foam paint

brush for best results.

HINT: Using very thin layers of finish will yield the best results. Mix

only the amount needed for the repair.

Apply the first layer of finish only to the center of the abraded area.

Successive layers may be applied as the previous coat dries (usually

about 1 hour). Gradually work out toward the edge of the repair area

with each successive coat with dry time between any two coats.

Three to five layers of finish will typically result in a repair that

cannot be seen in the completed floor.

*** NOTE: Scratches that go through

the existing finish into the wood will

require some extra time to repair.

Repairs should be done prior to the

refinish schedule since it may require

several hours for the repaired areas to

dry. If damages are deep and/or

extensive, it is recommended that a

professional floor contractor be

contacted for sanding and refinishing.

Page 15 Repair Scratches with StreetShoe® 275

Advanced Coating Tips for Experienced

One of the most important aspects in this process is to never leave standing water or cleaner on the floor. Standing

water that sets for any more than 5 minutes could create problems, such as floor cupping or delaminating, depending on

the quality or condition of the structure.

Don’t spend forever brushing-out a water-based coating. They set up much faster than oil modified urethanes, but water

based usually flows out well on its own. Brushing after the finish starts to set will cause it to streak and remain that way.

Resist the temptation to keep brushing and re-brushing. Fix any flaws after the coat has fully dried.

Mix the finish adequately before coating. Be sure to mix in any settlement on the bottom of the container with a stir

stick. Not mixing the finish can cause streaking in the final appearance.

Bundle the finish. Never use 2 different gallons in a large room. On large floors, combine the finish in a larger container.

This will keep the sheen consistent.

Clean and tack the floor before coating. It is even a good idea to clean the window sills and counter tops. A clean home

provides for a perfect finish.

Adding up to 12 ounces of Dry Time Extender from Basic Coatings to StreetShoe® can slow dry times, thus giving the

product more time to flow and level.

The roller application method can be helpful on tricky floors like kitchens and hallways.

Apply an even pressure or no pressure to the applicator. Different pressures can lead to varying film thicknesses, which

could lead to varying sheens. Be consistent with your application across the floor.

Be aware of your recoating window of opportunity. You may not need to abrade at all between coats. Basic Coatings

water-based finishes have a 24-hour recoat window. Use a surface-reading moisture meter to tell when you can apply

another coat of finish.

Try to achieve the recommended coverage rates. Finishes are designed to be applied at a specific film thickness. If you

apply the finish at the recommended rate, it will have a

better chance to flow and level correctly.

Make sure to turn off the HVAC system and close all

windows and doors while coating. This will keep the finish

from drying too quickly. After 30-60 minutes of no airflow,

the finish will tack over. At this point, open the floor to

airflow. You may use air movers to facilitate drying of the

finish if necessary.

NOTE: Make sure to feather out turns made

by the T-bar. Try feathering turns and cutting

in behind the T-bar with a 10” paint pad. DO

NOT CUT IN THE EDGES OVER A FINISH

THAT HAS BEEN DOWN MORE THAN 5

MINUTES . Also, use the paint pad when

backing out of a room. The paint pad has less

of a tendency to leave applicator marks.

Page 16 Advanced Coating Tips for Experienced Technicians

After Coating

Use mats in traffic areas and doorways. Avoid some rubber-backed

mats as they may discolor floor.

Place felt pads under furniture.

Damp mop with the ServiceMaster Clean microfiber mop.

Do not use wax or silicone-based polishes or cleaners. Some wood

flooring cleaners sold at your local store may actually make the floor

more difficult to clean and may create problems when the floor

requires refinishing. Use Neutral Cleaner.

Avoid deep scratches. High heels and dog nails can damage wood

flooring. Do not slide furniture across the floor.

Page 17 After Coating

Post Coating Timing

WoodGlo™ Option #1

1-2 hours – Walk on floor (with stocking feet)

24 hours – Return furniture to floor (use felt pads)

24 hours – Return rugs to floor and maintain by cleaning with Neutral Cleaner

WoodGlo™ Option #2

3-4 hours – Walk on floor (with stocking feet)

24 hours – Return furniture to floor (use felt pads)

2 weeks – Return rugs to floor and maintain by cleaning with Neutral Cleaner

Page 18 Post Coating Timing

NOTE: Be sure to sell or leave the homeowner with a ServiceMaster Clean Neutral Cleaner Maintenance

kit. Neutral Cleaner and the microfiber mop were specifically designed to clean wood floors without de-

positing a film. The key to extending the life of the floor is proper maintenance. Make the homeowner

aware that you are available for a periodic intensive cleaning, and that every year or so, you can come

back to add a protective coat of finish.

A properly maintained wood floor should never have to be sanded. Make sure to educate the homeowner

about the proper maintenance of wood floors.