s1. snæfell hut – laugarfell mountain (28-30km) · while there are several possible routes to...

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SNÆFELLSÖRÆFI SNÆFELLSSTOFA HIKING TRAILS MAP VATNAJÖKULSÞJÓÐGARÐUR S1. Snæfell hut – Laugarfell mountain (28-30km) red Walk south from the hut through the Þjófadalir valleys, then follow the riding trail to Hálskofi hut. Continue along the riding trail through the Snæfellsnes area and over the Hafursárufs bank, then cross Hafursá river and proceed north to the warm spring at the hut below Laugarfell. This is a good day’s walk. S2. Snæfell hut – Þjófadalir valleys red You can either start walking from the Snæfell hut or drive the first leg as far south as Langahnjúkur mountain. Walk up Þjófadalsá river through Þjófadalir, staying between Snæfell and the Þjófahnjúkar foothills. Finally a panoramic view will open up before you, looking down over Undir Fellum. S3. Circling Snæfell (28-30km) red Generally, people follow Route S2 to begin with, walking through Þjófadalir and enjoying the panoramic view over Undir Fellum. They then follow the high ground of Snæfellsháls, staying above Þjófagilsá river until reaching Hálskofi hut. From there until approaching Hafursá river, they keep near the bottom of the Snæfell slopes, but then turn down to the traditional ford called Eyjabakkavað, where many quit for the day (after walking 18-19km). Those wanting to complete the circle must hike up along Hafursá through Vatnsdalur valley and continue past the Tíutíu foothill (“ten-ten”, i.e. 1010m) and then walk alongside the vehicle track back to Snæfell hut. This is a good day’s walk. S4. Snæfell summit (12-14km) red While there are several possible routes to the top of Snæfell, the one starting slightly south of the hut and ascending from the west is most commonly used. This route is marked with posts until the glacier is reached. Rising to 1,833m, Snæfell is the highest of any Icelandic mountain outside of the major glaciers, and provides a magnificent view. *A hike of 6-9 hours, depending on ice conditions. Crampons are advisable for this route. S5. Snæfell hut – Lónsöræfi Nature Reserve (44-46km) black The first leg of this 3- to 5-day trip starts at Bjálfafell hill and takes you over Eyjabakkajökull to the Geldingafell hut (20km) after wading through a few glacial streams on the way. The next leg takes you to the hut at Kollumúlavatn lake (15km). The final leg involves hiking over the Sandar area, skirting Tröllakrókar cliffs, then descending via the Leiðartungur sheep ranges and following the glacial river Jökulsá down to the Múli huts. It is not far from the huts to Illikambur, where most people choose to be picked up. Note that the map shows only part of this route. S6.Glúmsstaðasel – Eyjabakkafoss (19km) red The no-longer-inhabited farm of Glúmsstaðasel, in the arm of Fljótsdalur valley called Norðurdalur, can be reached by 4WD. Walking from there up the east bank of Jökulsá í Fljótsdal, you will pass many waterfalls: Ófærufoss, Gjögurfossar (more than one waterfall), Faxi and Kirkjufoss. Continue onwards to the hut Hrakstrandarkofi and from there to the Eyjabakkafoss cascades. S7. Eyjabakkafoss cascades – Geldingafell hut (16km) black After passing Eyjabakkafoss, walk through Eyjabakkar to Eyjakofi hut. Follow Ytri Bergkvísl upstream until turning south towards the Geldingafell hut. S8. Kleif ruins – Eyjabakkafoss cascades (20km) red Until the river Jökulsá í Fljótsdal was developed for hydroelectric production, it fed a number of powerful waterfalls. Although their volume has diminished, the hike upstream from the old Kleiffarmstead is still enjoyable. You go through the birch bushes of Kleifarskógur, pass the waterfalls of Gjögurfossar and Faxi and up to Kirkjufoss, the highest of all the falls in the river. Farther up, you also get to Hrakstrandarfoss and Eyjabakkafoss, which is just below the old ford over the river. S9. Aðalból farm – Dragamót point (13-14km) red Walk along Hrafnkelsá river, below the gorge of Faxagil. After passing Tungusporður peninsula, continue up the ancient riding trail along Glúmsstaðaá river and through its valley, Glúmsstaðadalur, to Kárahnjúkar Road at Dragamót. Glúmsstaðadalur contains the ruins of a summertime farm outpost and also has a warm spring to relax in. Note that the map shows only part of this route. S10. Fljótsdalur valley – Lónsöræfi Nature Reserve (50km) black After gradually ascending Þorgerðarstaðadalur, you pass Sauðárvatn lake and head south over Leiðaröxl ridge to descend into the head of the next valley, Víðidalsdrög. Cross the river Víðidalsá at Norðlingavað and stay on the west side of Víðidalur valley. From Kollumúli mountain, you descend farther into the Leiðartungur sheep ranges to reach yet another former Norðlingavað ford, over Jökulsá í Lóni. In the old days, people from North Iceland waded over this ford on their way to work at fishing stations in the Southeast. Note that the map shows only part of this route. PARK LANDS AND PURPOSES Vatnajökull National Park was established on 7 June 2008. Its Eastern Territory, one of four territories into which the park is divided, has an area of 2384 km2 and stretches from Jökulsá á Fjöllum river in the northwest to Lónsöræfi Nature Reserve in the southeast, thus including the Snæfell Wilderness Area. The legal purposes of the park as a whole are to protect the landscape, biota, geological formations and cultural features and to allow the public to find out about local nature and history. As long as no damage is incurred to the environment, the general public should receive easy access to the park and be provided with information on nature, history and society. The aim of designating land for preservation is to protect special places so that coming generations will be able to enjoy them just as we do. In order to achieve this, certain rules of conduct apply. STAYING IN THE PARK Vatnajökull National Park is open to the public throughout the year; however, visitors must take responsibility for themselves. Off-road driving is prohibited, and the National Park manager is authorised to close vehicle tracks whenever driving conditions or conservation measures demand. Some tracks are always subject to specific traffic limitations (see map). The campground at the Snæfell hut is open in summer. Without express permission from the park manager, pitching tents or overnighting in vehicles and caravans/trailers is never allowed outside of designated campgrounds. While tourists are welcome to walk any- where within the park, they are expected to stay on the marked educational trails wherever these are provided. The Snæfell area has two huts, located by Geldingafell and Snæfell mountains. Owned by the Touring Club of Fljótsdalshérað, the Snæfell hut can take up to 50 people in sleeping bags, and there is also a campground, WC and shower. Wardens, whose duties include providing information and supervision, stay at the Snæfell hut from early July to mid-September. Amongst other things, they offer regular guided walks; please talk to them for more details. You can also find out more by calling the Snæfell Visitor Centre at +354 470 0840 or looking at the park website: www.vatnajokulsthjodgardur.is. SNÆFELLSSTOFA VISITOR CENTRE Located at Skriðuklaustur, just south of Lagarfljót, Snæfell Visitor Centre was opened in 2010. The Visitor Centre provides information on the environment, accommodation in the vicinity, hiking routes and other recreation opportunities in the park environs. In addition to an exhibition on the nature of the park’s Eastern Territory, you will find park management offices at the Centre along with refreshments and souvenirs. The Centre has good facilities for the disabled. Travellers heading for the highlands are encouraged to drop by and obtain information from park personnel. Vatnajökulsþjóðgarður – Austursvæði Snæfellsstofa, Skriðuklaustri, 701 Egilsstaðir, sími 470 0840. Netfang: [email protected] Veffang: www.vatnajokulsthjodgardur.is Publisher: Vatnajökull National Park Photographers: Ragnar Th. Sigurðsson, Skarphéðinn G. Þórisson Design and layout: PORT Hönnun Drawings: Jón Baldur Hlíðberg Map database: Loftmyndir ehf. Map design: Hafþór Snjólfur Helgason Scientific writers: Skarphéðinn G. Þórisson and Ívar Örn Benediktsson Printer: GuðjónÓ Paper: Sappi Magno Satin 1_0810 In emergency dial 112 — Neyðaraðstoð hringið í 112 HIKING ROUTES The Snæfell area offers a wide variety of hiking possibilities, with short or long routes that should suit anybody. Park trails are rated according to difficulty: GREEN: For those with limited mobility. These trails are over 75cm wide and are covered with paving, wooden platforms or compacted gravel. Routes and trails which may include lengthy rough, difficult sections, and obstructions such as unbridged brooks or small rivers, loose gravel, steep sections, etc. RED: Challenging BLUE: Easy For the most part gentle, smooth-surfaced trails, without any significant obstructions or difficulties. Routes and trails which may include lengthy rough, difficult sections, and obstructions such as unbridged brooks or small rivers, loose gravel, steep sections, etc. BLACK: Difficult As seen above, green indicates the easiest trails and black the most difficult ones. For further information about the area, feel free to speak to the rangers at Snæfell Visitor Centre. Reindeer on the move in the park’s Eastern Territory View to the NW over Múli, Eyjabakkar and Snæfell, from the top of Geldingafell mountain Hafursárfoss waterfall Pregnant cows traveling at the north side of Snæfell to the calving ground in early May Snæfell, viewed from the SW by Jökulkvísl river BRúARJöKULL Brúarjökull, Vatnajökull’s largest outlet glacier, is best known for its huge surges, which occur at intervals of 80-100 years. Such surges occur in an outlet glacier because the flow of ice down from the glacier’s accumulation zone into its ablation zone is not sufficient to maintain a balance over the year as a whole. Therefore, the upper part of the glacier grows continually higher and thicker, while the tongue below grows shorter and thinner. As a result, the slope becomes constantly steeper, until the ice surges forward to create a balance once more. The Brúarjökull surges are the most impressive known anywhere, with the tongue rushing forward about 8-10km in a few months. The velocity of this flow can reach about 5m/ hr, equivalent to 120m/day. Brúarjökull surged in 1810, 1890 and 1963-64. Reports of river floods in the farming valley downstream of the glacier imply that there were also surges in 1720 and 1625, but no knowledge exists of any earlier surges. The longest surge – around 10 km into the eastern part of Kringilsárrani – happened in 1890. Brúarjökull feeds four major rivers: Jökulsá á Dal, Kringilsá, Kverká and Kreppa. Through its surges, Brúarjökull has become a showpiece for landforms. The most famous is Hraukar, a group of terminal moraines left by the surge of 1890, when the advancing ice piled up soil that had lain undisturbed for centuries. Standing up to 20m high, the vegetated ridges of Hraukar can be tracked without a break for kilometre after kilometre. Other examples of outstanding glacier-produced landforms are flutes, crevasse fills, eskers and concertina eskers. Some of these phenomena are virtually too huge to discern, except from the air, and it is mostly due to these landforms that many geologists have journeyed to Brúarjökull to clarify their understanding of the nature and causes of surges. Comprehension of how land was created and shaped here has aided the scientists towards a deeper understanding of sites that were long ago covered by the continental ice sheets over Scandinavia, northern Europe and North America. The broad tongue of Brúarjökull is currently retreating from 100 to 250m annually. New, unexplored ground is constantly appearing, and the terrain next to the glacier is evolving as new lagoons are formed and emptied, river channels dry up while others are created, waterfalls appear and disappear, dead ice melts away and landforms disintegrate. Since the next surge may not happen before 2040, current developments may continue for several decades. However, if climate change continues as it has in the past decade, accumulation on the glacier surface will decrease, which in turn might delay or even prevent a surge. Arctic fox Alopex lagopus Tekin undir Virkisjökli inni við Skaftafell. Mynd: Ragnar Th Sigurðsson WELCOME TO THE NATIONAL PARK We hope you will discover and enjoy the many wonders of Snæfell Wilderness Area. WHEN VISITING, PLEASE REMEMBER: To show consideration for other park visitors. Not to cause any damage to nature, for instance by tearing up moss or other plants, disturbing animals, modifying basalt columns or other geological formations, or piling up rocks. Not to drive off-road. Also, some tracks have special restrictions – please respect any road closure signs. Not to leave any litter behind within the park. Visitors are requested to take their rubbish back to inhabited areas. Waste is sorted in the communities of the Fljótsdalshérað area. Not to make any noise at the Snæfell campground between 23:00 and 07:00. To show consideration for campground vegetation. Do not pour hot water on the ground or singe plants while cooking. Never to light fires on the ground. To take away nothing except pictures and memories, or leave anything behind other than faint footprints. White cottongrass – Eriophorum Beaked sedge Carex rostrata Glacier buttercup Ranunculus glacialis EYJABAKKAJöKULL This surge-prone outlet glacier at the northeast corner of Vatnajökull is comprised of three ice streams which form a 10km-long, 4km-wide tongue flowing down into the upper end of Eyjabakkar. The easternmost stream is the largest, originating in the valley of Hnjúkadalur. In the lowest part of the tongue, two medial moraines keep the three ice streams separate. The first known surge of Eyjabakkajökull occurred in 1890. Two more surges occurred in Eyjabakkajökull in 1931 and 1938, and a final surge lasted from September 1972 to the autumn of 1973, advancing around 2km. Eyjabakkajökull can thus be said to surge about every 35 years. The surge may be delayed by the increasingly warm climate, which results in a negative glacier budget. The 1890 surge advanced some 3-4km, crossing vegetated ground that had been glacier-free for centuries. The result was huge ridges of moraine which have been named Hraukar. These terminal moraines rank among the largest in Iceland and have been studied for decades. About 750m nearer the glacier, additional large terminal moraines were left by the surge of 1938. Still nearer the glacier, hummocky moraines are noticeable; these were created by the melting of dead ice left behind under glacial till. A large concertina esker, formed near the end of the 1972-73 surge, winds along the west margin of Eyjabakkajökull, while flutes, eskers and crevasse- fill ridges are prominent in front of its eastern side. South of the Háalda rise, where Eyjabakkajökull flows out of the main glacier, glacial floods known as jökul-hlaups started from the small lagoon of Háöldulón just before and just after the surge of 1972-73. These jökul-hlaups melted out a tunnel at the bottom of the outlet glacier which later became a tourist attraction known as the Eyjabakkajökull ice cave. Jökulsá í Fljótsdal river runs out of the west side of the Eyjabakkajökull snout, and for millennia has wandered back and forth over the broad Eyjabakkar valley, filling it with alluvium that today has mostly dried up in the vicinity of the glacier. The surface contours of Eyjabakkajökull reveal the route where the river runs beneath the glacier. Close to the upper end of the outlet glacier, moulins appear, i.e. circular drain holes where water on the glacier surface falls into vertical shafts that lead to the very bottom of the glacier. Hikers going from Snæfell to Lónsöræfi must proceed with caution when approaching and crossing Eyjabakkajökull. SNÆFELL WILDERNESS AREA The Eastern Territory of Vatnajökull National Park can be divided into three areas: Brúaröræfi, west of Hálslón reservoir; the Snæfell Wilderness Area, basically stretching east of the reservoir to Kelduá river; and the expanses of Hraun, east of Kelduá. Traditional place names further divide the Snæfell Wilderness Area into Kringilsárrani, which is the southeastern corner of Brúaröræfi; Vesturöræfi, which lies east of Kringilsárrani and west of Snæfell; Snæfell mountain and its foothills; the lower land below them and eastwards, called Undir Fellum; and the Múli plateau rising still farther to the east. Apart from the ancient central volcano Snæfell and its hyaloclastite foothills, the landscape mostly consists of a highland plateau, 600-900m in altitude. Over time, this plateau has been scraped and shaped by glacial ice. Nowadays, it is one of the few places in Iceland where vegetation stretches continuously from sea to glacier. Due to the rain shadow cast by Vatnajökull, the area generally receives little precipitation, although precipitation is greater in the east and decreases westwards. In fact, few areas of Iceland get as little rain as Brúaröræfi. The Snæfell Wilderness has long provided the main summer range and calving ground of reindeer, which had died out everywhere else on the island by early in the 20th century. Actually, their only legally protected area even today is Kringilsárrani, declared a reserve in 1975. The Wilderness’s most notable bird is the pink-footed goose. For some years, the world’s largest moulting group of this species could be found in the Eyjabakkar wetlands, and efforts are ongoing to get the site listed under the Ramsar Convention. SNÆFELL Snæfell, which towers to 1,833m, is the highest mountain in Iceland that is not enclosed by glacier. West of Snæfell, the plain between the mountain and the foothills is about 800m high and is called Sandar. A central volcano with magnificent rhyolite formations. Snæfell was created by eruptions over the last 400,000 years. Exactly when the last eruption occurred and whether the volcano is now active or extinct are matters of debate. Some believe that Snæfell’s peak rose above the sheets of ice covering the island during the last glaciation of the Ice Age. That is when the hyaloclastite foothills surrounding the mountain were being formed through sub-glacial eruptions. Sandar is a good place to spot large herds of reindeer, especially in late summer. Alpine vegetation reaches a long way up the Snæfell slopes, with glacier buttercup, Ranunculus glacialis, appearing frequently, while alpine whitlowgrass, Draba alpina, displays its yellow blooms mainly on the summits. Along the slopes, spring water emerges here and there and fosters bright green patches of the moss Philanotis fontana, which sharply contrast with the dark, unvegetated ground of the surroundings. Snæfell hut, owned by the Touring Club of Fljótsdalshérað, stands just west of the mountain itself. UNDIR FELLUM The land stretching east of Snæfell to the easternmost branches of Jökulsá í Fljótsdal river, down to where it joins Laugará river, is called Undir Fellum (meaning “At the Foot of the Mountains”). In recent times, many Icelanders have started using the name Eyjabakkar for all of the relatively low land east of Snæfell; however, Eyjabakkar itself actually only lies along part of the eastern bank of Jökulsá í Fljótsdal. Downstream from Snæfell and Eyjabakkar, the Undir Fellum expanse is rather flat, consisting of wetlands, banks and gentle ridges. The river channels have gradually deposited the material in a broad flood plain, which today contains a network of channels and low islets known as Þóriseyjar. The fertile wetland vegetation on these islets is greatly appreciated by reindeer and even more by pink-footed geese and whooper swans. At the Undir Fellum elevations of 650-680m, 133 vascular plant species have been found. Huge flocks of pink- footed geese gather in the southern part of the area in July to moult their flight feathers. For some years, the world’s largest moulting flock of pink-footed geese could be found here, though their numbers have dwindled in recent years. Since a lot more snow collects east of Snæfell than west of it, reindeer are seldom seen in Undir Fellum except in autumn. MúLI The area between the most easterly branch of Jökulsá í Fljótsdal river and Kelduá river forms a plateau named Múli. Múli in fact extends much farther north, but there it lies out- side of park boundaries, which are on the glacier side of Folavatn reservoir. While Múli is quite well vegetated, plant life is most abundant alongside the two rivers. Hyaloclastite peaks called Geldingafell rise at the south end of Múli, where a Touring Club of Fljótsdalshérað hut is located north of the most westerly peak. The Vatnadæld depression runs northeast from Geldingafell, including (from east to west) the lakes of Fremstavatn, Mið- vatn, Innstavatn and Kelduárvatn. The boundary between the traditional grazing grounds of Fljótsdalur and Lón lies between Innstavatn and Kelduárvatn. The river flowing out of the latter, Kelduá, merges with the river Blanda just below the hut at Geldingafell, then bends to run along the east side of Múli. HRAUN The exposed rocky plateau east of Múli, which is subject to heavy snow, is called Hraun because of its many rock outcrops and strewn stones. Most of the vegetation here is snow bed, where the dominant species are Anthelia mosses and dwarf willow, Salix herbacea. A tiny corner of the Hraun expanses northeast of Vatnajökull is included in the national park, and provides a connection to the Lónsöræfi nature reserve which bounds the park. Pink-footed geese Anser brachyrhynchus TRAVELLING IN THE HIGHLANDS When venturing into the highlands, you are reminded to prepare for all eventualities, as you will be travelling at your own responsibility. In highland areas, circumstances may change quickly – for instance if the weather changes so that small streams turn into big rivers or other driving conditions worsen. Therefore, you need to keep up-to-date with weather forecasts. Besides notifying others of your trip, take mobile phones or other telecommunication devices along; compasses and maps or electronic positioning equipment (GPS) are also necessary. Don’t drive into any unbridged river without being sure that the crossing is safe. Keep in mind that crossings may change quickly. If you’re not sure about the one you’re at, you should wait for the next vehicle rather than risk danger. Caution is called for when driving on gravel roads. Loose surface material can be hazardous, and you should always reduce speed when meeting other vehicles. Additional difficulties may arise when gravel roads become wet. Take care at single-lane bridges. Show consideration for livestock. When driving, remember that both livestock and reindeer roam freely through the area, including over the roads. If assistance is needed, phone 112. During the summer, rescue teams operate in the highlands to provide help when required. Emergency calls are referred from 112 to the appropriate parties, so that help comes as quickly as possible. After calling for help, stay where you are and wait for assistance to arrive. Note that driving off roads is strictly prohibited. KRINGILSáRRANI The southeastern corner of Brúaröræfi, a triangular highland plateau named Kringilsárrani, ranges from 625 to 700m in altitude and is bordered by Hálslón reservoir, Kringilsá river and the icy snout of Brúarjökull. Brúarjökull has shaped this plateau, leaving behind terminal moraines perpendicular to the direction of the ice flow. The most prominent of these moraines, Töðuhraukar, was pushed up in 1890 and was named because of its lush grazing, though increasing numbers of grazing animals have since reduced that. Although the Kringilsárrani vegetation has also been affected by the surges and retreats of Brúarjökull, much of it is fairly diverse. Numerous wetlands and ponds have in recent decades supported growing numbers of pink-footed geese. Reindeer in Kringilsárrani have normally numbered around 200- 300. Kringilsá and Sauðá rivers make access to the area difficult, and the following rules have applied since 1975 to protect Kringilsárrani as a reserve: reindeer are protected here and hunting them is banned; motorised vehicles are prohibited unless a special permit has been obtained from the Environment Agency; and no one is allowed to remove vegetation, nor to disturb the soil, rocks or animal life. When farmers farther down in Jökuldalur valley used to drive their sheep into Kringilsárrani, they had to pull them over Kringilsá river in a cable cart in the spring and back again in the autumn. LANDSCAPE AND NATURE VISITOR CENTRE

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Page 1: S1. Snæfell hut – Laugarfell mountain (28-30km) · While there are several possible routes to the top of Snæfell, the one starting slightly south of the hut and ascending from

SNÆFELLSÖRÆFI

SNÆFELLSSTOFAHIKING TRAILS

MAP

VATNAJÖKULSÞJÓÐGARÐUR

S1. Snæfell hut – Laugarfell mountain (28-30km) red

Walk south from the hut through the Þjófadalir valleys, then follow the riding trail to Hálskofi hut. Continue along the riding trail through the Snæfellsnes area and over the Hafursárufs bank, then cross Hafursá river and proceed north to the warm spring at the hut below Laugarfell. This is a good day’s walk.

S2. Snæfell hut – Þjófadalir valleys red

You can either start walking from the Snæfell hut or drive the first leg as far south as Langahnjúkur mountain. Walk up Þjófadalsá river through Þjófadalir, staying between Snæfell and the Þjófahnjúkar foothills. Finally a panoramic view will open up before you, looking down over Undir Fellum.

S3. Circling Snæfell (28-30km) red

Generally, people follow Route S2 to begin with, walking through Þjófadalir and enjoying the panoramic view over Undir Fellum. They then follow the high ground of Snæfellsháls, staying above Þjófagilsá river until reaching Hálskofi hut. From there until approaching Hafursá river, they keep near the bottom of the Snæfell slopes, but then turn down to the traditional ford called Eyjabakkavað, where many quit for the day (after walking 18-19km). Those wanting to complete the circle must hike up along Hafursá through Vatnsdalur valley and continue past the Tíutíu foothill (“ten-ten”, i.e. 1010m) and then walk alongside the vehicle track back to Snæfell hut. This is a good day’s walk.

S4. Snæfell summit (12-14km) red

While there are several possible routes to the top of Snæfell, the one starting slightly south of the hut and ascending from the west is most commonly used. This route is marked with posts until the glacier is reached. Rising to 1,833m, Snæfell is the highest of any Icelandic mountain outside of the major glaciers, and provides a magnificent view. *A hike of 6-9 hours, depending on ice conditions. Crampons are advisable for this route.

S5. Snæfell hut – Lónsöræfi Nature Reserve (44-46km) black

The first leg of this 3- to 5-day trip starts at Bjálfafell hill and takes you over Eyjabakkajökull to the Geldingafell hut (20km) after wading through a few glacial streams on the way. The next leg takes you to the hut at Kollumúlavatn lake (15km). The final leg involves hiking over the Sandar area, skirting Tröllakrókar cliffs, then descending via the Leiðartungur sheep ranges and following the glacial river Jökulsá down to the Múli huts. It is not far from the huts to Illikambur, where most people choose to be picked up. Note that the map shows only part of this route.

S6.Glúmsstaðasel – Eyjabakkafoss (19km) red

The no-longer-inhabited farm of Glúmsstaðasel, in the arm of Fljótsdalur valley called Norðurdalur, can be reached by 4WD. Walking from there up the east bank of Jökulsá í Fljótsdal, you will pass many waterfalls: Ófærufoss, Gjögurfossar (more than one waterfall), Faxi and Kirkjufoss. Continue onwards to the hut Hrakstrandarkofi and from there to the Eyjabakkafoss cascades.

S7. Eyjabakkafoss cascades – Geldingafell hut (16km) black

After passing Eyjabakkafoss, walk through Eyjabakkar to Eyjakofi hut. Follow Ytri Bergkvísl upstream until turning south towards the Geldingafell hut.

S8. Kleif ruins – Eyjabakkafoss cascades (20km) red

Until the river Jökulsá í Fljótsdal was developed for hydroelectric production, it fed a number of powerful waterfalls. Although their volume has diminished, the hike upstream from the old Kleiffarmstead is still enjoyable. You go through the birch bushes of Kleifarskógur, pass the waterfalls of Gjögurfossar and Faxi and up to Kirkjufoss, the highest of all the falls in the river. Farther up, you also get to Hrakstrandarfoss and Eyjabakkafoss, which is just below the old ford over the river.

S9. Aðalból farm – Dragamót point (13-14km) red

Walk along Hrafnkelsá river, below the gorge of Faxagil. After passing Tungusporður peninsula, continue up the ancient riding trail along Glúmsstaðaá river and through its valley, Glúmsstaðadalur, to Kárahnjúkar Road at Dragamót. Glúmsstaðadalur contains the ruins of a summertime farm outpost and also has a warm spring to relax in. Note that the map shows only part of this route.

S10. Fljótsdalur valley – Lónsöræfi Nature Reserve (50km) black After gradually ascending Þorgerðarstaðadalur, you pass Sauðárvatn lake and head south over Leiðaröxl ridge to descend into the head of the next valley, Víðidalsdrög. Cross the river Víðidalsá at Norðlingavað and stay on the west side of Víðidalur valley. From Kollumúli mountain, you descend farther into the Leiðartungur sheep ranges to reach yet another former Norðlingavað ford, over Jökulsá í Lóni. In the old days, people from North Iceland waded over this ford on their way to work at fishing stations in the Southeast. Note that the map shows only part of this route.

Park lands and PurPosesVatnajökull National Park was established on 7 June 2008. Its Eastern Territory, one of four territories into which the park is divided, has an area of 2384 km2 and stretches from Jökulsá á Fjöllum river in the northwest to Lónsöræfi Nature Reserve in the southeast, thus including the Snæfell Wilderness Area. The legal purposes of the park as a whole are to protect the landscape, biota, geological formations and cultural features and to allow the public to find out about local nature and history. As long as no damage is incurred to the environment, the general public should receive easy access to the park and be provided with information on nature, history and society. The aim of designating land for preservation is to protect special places so that coming generations will be able to enjoy them just as we do. In order to achieve this, certain rules of conduct apply.

staying in the ParkVatnajökull National Park is open to the public throughout the year; however, visitors must take responsibility for themselves. Off-road driving is prohibited, and the National Park manager is authorised to close vehicle tracks whenever driving conditions or conservation measures demand. Some tracks are always subject to specific traffic limitations (see map). The campground at the Snæfell hut is open in summer. Without express permission from the park manager, pitching tents or overnighting in vehicles and caravans/trailers is never allowed outside of designated campgrounds. While tourists are welcome to walk any-where within the park, they are expected to stay on the marked educational trails wherever these are provided.

The Snæfell area has two huts, located by Geldingafell and Snæfell mountains. Owned by the Touring Club of Fljótsdalshérað, the Snæfell hut can take up to 50 people in sleeping bags, and there is also a campground, WC and shower. Wardens, whose duties include providing information and supervision, stay at the Snæfell hut from early July to mid-September. Amongst other things, they offer regular guided walks; please talk to them for more details. You can also find out more by calling the Snæfell Visitor Centre at +354 470 0840 or looking at the park website: www.vatnajokulsthjodgardur.is.

snÆFellsstoFa Visitor CentreLocated at Skriðuklaustur, just south of Lagarfljót, Snæfell Visitor Centre was opened in 2010. The Visitor Centre provides information on the environment, accommodation in the vicinity, hiking routes and other recreation opportunities in the park environs. In addition to an exhibition on the nature of the park’s Eastern Territory, you will find park management offices at the Centre along with refreshments and souvenirs.

The Centre has good facilities for the disabled. Travellers heading for the highlands are encouraged to drop by and obtain information from park personnel.

Vatnajökulsþjóðgarður – Austursvæði Snæfellsstofa, Skriðuklaustri, 701 Egilsstaðir, sími 470 0840.Netfang: [email protected]: www.vatnajokulsthjodgardur.is

Publisher: Vatnajökull National ParkPhotographers: Ragnar Th. Sigurðsson, Skarphéðinn G. ÞórissonDesign and layout: PORT Hönnun Drawings: Jón Baldur HlíðbergMap database: Loftmyndir ehf. Map design: Hafþór Snjólfur Helgason Scientific writers: Skarphéðinn G. Þórisson and Ívar Örn Benediktsson Printer: GuðjónÓ Paper: Sappi Magno Satin 1_0810

in emergency dial 112 — neyðaraðstoð hringið í 112

hiking routesThe Snæfell area offers a wide variety of hiking possibilities, with short or long routes that should suit anybody. Park trails are rated according to difficulty:

green:For those with limited mobility.

These trails are over 75cm wide and are covered with paving, wooden platforms or compacted gravel.

Routes and trails which may include lengthy rough, difficult sections, and obstructions such as unbridged brooks or small rivers, loose gravel, steep sections, etc.

red: Challenging

Blue:easy

For the most part gentle, smooth-surfaced trails, without any significant obstructions or difficulties.

Routes and trails which may include lengthy rough, difficult sections, and obstructions such as unbridged brooks or small rivers, loose gravel, steep sections, etc.

BlaCk: difficult

As seen above, green indicates the easiest trails and black the most difficult ones. For further information about the area, feel free to speak to the rangers at Snæfell Visitor Centre.

Reindeer on the move in the park’s Eastern Territory

View to the NW over Múli, Eyjabakkar and Snæfell, from the top of Geldingafell mountain

Hafursárfoss waterfall

Pregnant cows traveling at the north side of Snæfell to the calving ground in early May

Snæfell, viewed from the SW by Jökulkvísl river

BrúarjökullBrúarjökull, Vatnajökull’s largest outlet glacier, is best known for its huge surges, which occur at intervals of 80-100 years. Such surges occur in an outlet glacier because the flow of ice down from the glacier’s accumulation zone into its ablation zone is not sufficient to maintain a balance over the year as a whole. Therefore, the upper part of the glacier grows continually higher and thicker, while the tongue below grows shorter and thinner. As a result, the slope becomes constantly steeper, until the ice surges forward to create a balance once more. The Brúarjökull surges are the most impressive known anywhere, with the tongue rushing forward about 8-10km in a few months. The velocity of this flow can reach about 5m/hr, equivalent to 120m/day. Brúarjökull surged in 1810, 1890 and 1963-64. Reports of river floods in the farming valley downstream of the glacier imply that there were also surges in 1720 and 1625, but no knowledge exists of any earlier surges. The longest surge – around 10 km into the eastern part of Kringilsárrani – happened in 1890. Brúarjökull feeds four major rivers: Jökulsá á Dal, Kringilsá, Kverká and Kreppa. Through its surges, Brúarjökull has become a showpiece for landforms. The most famous is Hraukar, a group of terminal moraines left by the surge of 1890, when the advancing ice piled up soil that had lain undisturbed for centuries. Standing up to 20m high, the vegetated ridges of Hraukar can be tracked without a break for kilometre after kilometre. Other examples of outstanding glacier-produced landforms are flutes, crevasse fills, eskers and concertina eskers. Some of these phenomena are virtually too huge to discern, except from the air, and it is mostly due to these landforms that many geologists have journeyed to Brúarjökull to clarify their understanding of the nature and causes of surges. Comprehension of how land was created and shaped here has aided the scientists towards a deeper understanding of sites that were long ago covered by the continental ice sheets over Scandinavia, northern Europe and North America.

The broad tongue of Brúarjökull is currently retreating from 100 to 250m annually. New, unexplored ground is constantly appearing, and the terrain next to the glacier is evolving as new lagoons are formed and emptied, river channels dry up while others are created, waterfalls appear and disappear, dead ice melts away and landforms disintegrate. Since the next surge may not happen before 2040, current developments may continue for several decades. However, if climate change continues as it has in the past decade, accumulation on the glacier surface will decrease, which in turn might delay or even prevent a surge.

Arctic fox – Alopex lagopus

Tekin undir Virkisjökli inni við Skaftafell. Mynd: Ragnar Th Sigurðsson

welCome to the national Parkwe hope you will discover and enjoy the many wonders of snæfell wilderness area.

when Visiting, Please rememBer:• To show consideration for other park visitors.

• Not to cause any damage to nature, for instance by tearing up moss or other plants, disturbing animals, modifying basalt columns or other geological formations, or piling up rocks.

• Not to drive off-road. Also, some tracks have special restrictions – please respect any road closure signs.

• Not to leave any litter behind within the park. Visitors are requested to take their rubbish back to inhabited areas. Waste is sorted in the communities of the Fljótsdalshérað area.

• Not to make any noise at the Snæfell campground between 23:00 and 07:00.

• To show consideration for campground vegetation. Do not pour hot water on the ground or singe plants while cooking.

• Never to light fires on the ground.

• To take away nothing except pictures and memories, or leave anything behind other than faint footprints.

White cottongrass – Eriophorum

Beaked sedge – Carex rostrata

Glacier buttercup – Ranunculus glacialis

eyjaBakkajökullThis surge-prone outlet glacier at the northeast corner of Vatnajökull is comprised of three ice streams which form a 10km-long, 4km-wide tongue flowing down into the upper end of Eyjabakkar. The easternmost stream is the largest, originating in the valley of Hnjúkadalur. In the lowest part of the tongue, two medial moraines keep the three ice streams separate. The first known surge of Eyjabakkajökull occurred in 1890. Two more surges occurred in Eyjabakkajökull in 1931 and 1938, and a final surge lasted from September 1972 to the autumn of 1973, advancing around 2km. Eyjabakkajökull can thus be said to surge about every 35 years. The surge may be delayed by the increasingly warm climate, which results in a negative glacier budget.

The 1890 surge advanced some 3-4km, crossing vegetated ground that had been glacier-free for centuries. The result was huge ridges of moraine which have been named Hraukar. These terminal moraines rank among the largest in Iceland and have been studied for decades. About 750m nearer the glacier, additional large terminal moraines were left by the surge of 1938. Still nearer the glacier, hummocky moraines are noticeable; these were created by the melting of dead ice left behind under glacial till. A large concertina esker, formed near the end of the 1972-73 surge, winds along the west margin of Eyjabakkajökull, while flutes, eskers and crevasse-fill ridges are prominent in front of its eastern side. South of the Háalda rise, where Eyjabakkajökull flows out of the main glacier, glacial floods known as jökul-hlaups started from the small lagoon of Háöldulón just before and just after the surge of 1972-73. These jökul-hlaups melted out a tunnel at the bottom of the outlet glacier which later became a tourist attraction known as the Eyjabakkajökull ice cave. Jökulsá í Fljótsdal river runs out of the west side of the Eyjabakkajökull snout, and for millennia has wandered back and forth over the broad Eyjabakkar valley, filling it with alluvium that today has mostly dried up in the vicinity of the glacier.

The surface contours of Eyjabakkajökull reveal the route where the river runs beneath the glacier. Close to the upper end of the outlet glacier, moulins appear, i.e. circular drain holes where water on the glacier surface falls into vertical shafts that lead to the very bottom of the glacier. Hikers going from Snæfell to Lónsöræfi must proceed with caution when approaching and crossing Eyjabakkajökull.

snÆFell wilderness areaThe Eastern Territory of Vatnajökull National Park can be divided into three areas: Brúaröræfi, west of Hálslón reservoir; the Snæfell Wilderness Area, basically stretching east of the reservoir to Kelduá river; and the expanses of Hraun, east of Kelduá. Traditional place names further divide the Snæfell Wilderness Area into Kringilsárrani, which is the southeastern corner of Brúaröræfi; Vesturöræfi, which lies east of Kringilsárrani and west of Snæfell; Snæfell mountain and its foothills; the lower land below them and eastwards, called Undir Fellum; and the Múli plateau rising still farther to the east. Apart from the ancient central volcano Snæfell and its hyaloclastite foothills, the landscape mostly consists of a highland plateau, 600-900m in altitude.

Over time, this plateau has been scraped and shaped by glacial ice. Nowadays, it is one of the few places in Iceland where vegetation stretches continuously from sea to glacier. Due to the rain shadow cast by Vatnajökull, the area generally receives little precipitation, although precipitation is greater in the east and decreases westwards. In fact, few areas of Iceland get as little rain as Brúaröræfi. The Snæfell Wilderness has long provided the main summer range and calving ground of reindeer, which had died out everywhere else on the island by early in the 20th century. Actually, their only legally protected area even today is Kringilsárrani, declared a reserve in 1975. The Wilderness’s most notable bird is the pink-footed goose. For some years, the world’s largest moulting group of this species could be found in the Eyjabakkar wetlands, and efforts are ongoing to get the site listed under the Ramsar Convention.

snÆFellSnæfell, which towers to 1,833m, is the highest mountain in Iceland that is not enclosed by glacier. West of Snæfell, the plain between the mountain and the foothills is about 800m high and is called Sandar. A central volcano with magnificent rhyolite formations. Snæfell was created by eruptions over the last 400,000 years. Exactly when the last eruption occurred and whether the volcano is now active or extinct are matters of debate. Some believe that Snæfell’s peak rose above the sheets of ice covering the island during the last glaciation of the Ice Age. That is when the hyaloclastite foothills surrounding the mountain were being formed through sub-glacial eruptions. Sandar is a good place to spot large herds of reindeer, especially in late summer. Alpine vegetation reaches a long way up the Snæfell slopes, with glacier buttercup, Ranunculus glacialis, appearing frequently, while alpine whitlowgrass, Draba alpina, displays its yellow blooms mainly on the summits. Along the slopes, spring water emerges here and there and fosters bright green patches of the moss Philanotis fontana, which sharply contrast with the dark, unvegetated ground of the surroundings. Snæfell hut, owned by the Touring Club of Fljótsdalshérað, stands just west of the mountain itself.

undir FellumThe land stretching east of Snæfell to the easternmost branches of Jökulsá í Fljótsdal river, down to where it joins Laugará river, is called Undir Fellum (meaning “At the Foot of the Mountains”). In recent times, many Icelanders have started using the name Eyjabakkar for all of the relatively low land east of Snæfell; however, Eyjabakkar itself actually only lies along part of the eastern bank of Jökulsá í Fljótsdal. Downstream from Snæfell and Eyjabakkar, the Undir Fellum expanse is rather flat, consisting of wetlands, banks and gentle ridges. The river channels have gradually deposited the material in a broad flood plain, which today contains a network of channels and low islets known as Þóriseyjar. The fertile wetland vegetation on these islets is greatly appreciated by reindeer and even more by pink-footed geese and whooper swans. At the Undir Fellum elevations of 650-680m, 133 vascular plant species have been found. Huge flocks of pink-footed geese gather in the southern part of the area in July to moult their flight feathers. For some years, the world’s largest moulting flock of pink-footed geese could be found here, though their numbers have dwindled in recent years. Since a lot more snow collects east of Snæfell than west of it, reindeer are seldom seen in Undir Fellum except in autumn.

múliThe area between the most easterly branch of Jökulsá í Fljótsdal river and Kelduá river forms a plateau named Múli. Múli in fact extends much farther north, but there it lies out-side of park boundaries, which are on the glacier side of Folavatn reservoir. While Múli is quite well vegetated, plant life is most abundant alongside the two rivers. Hyaloclastite peaks called Geldingafell rise at the south end of Múli, where a Touring Club of Fljótsdalshérað hut is located north of the most westerly peak.

The Vatnadæld depression runs northeast from Geldingafell, including (from east to west) the lakes of Fremstavatn, Mið-vatn, Innstavatn and Kelduárvatn. The boundary between the traditional grazing grounds of Fljótsdalur and Lón lies between Innstavatn and Kelduárvatn. The river flowing out of the latter, Kelduá, merges with the river Blanda just below the hut at Geldingafell, then bends to run along the east side of Múli.

hraunThe exposed rocky plateau east of Múli, which is subject to heavy snow, is called Hraun because of its many rock outcrops and strewn stones. Most of the vegetation here is snow bed, where the dominant species are Anthelia mosses and dwarf willow, Salix herbacea. A tiny corner of the Hraun expanses northeast of Vatnajökull is included in the national park, and provides a connection to the Lónsöræfi nature reserve which bounds the park.

Pink-footed geese – Anser brachyrhynchus

traVelling in the highlands• When venturing into the highlands, you are reminded to

prepare for all eventualities, as you will be travelling at your own responsibility.

• In highland areas, circumstances may change quickly – for instance if the weather changes so that small streams turn into big rivers or other driving conditions worsen. Therefore, you need to keep up-to-date with weather forecasts.

• Besides notifying others of your trip, take mobile phones or other telecommunication devices along; compasses and maps or electronic positioning equipment (GPS) are also necessary.

• Don’t drive into any unbridged river without being sure that the crossing is safe. Keep in mind that crossings may change quickly. If you’re not sure about the one you’re at, you should wait for the next vehicle rather than risk danger.

• Caution is called for when driving on gravel roads. Loose surface material can be hazardous, and you should always reduce speed when meeting other vehicles. Additional difficulties may arise when gravel roads become wet.

• Take care at single-lane bridges.

• Show consideration for livestock. When driving, remember that both livestock and reindeer roam freely through the area, including over the roads.

• If assistance is needed, phone 112. During the summer, rescue teams operate in the highlands to provide help when required. Emergency calls are referred from 112 to the appropriate parties, so that help comes as quickly as possible. After calling for help, stay where you are and wait for assistance to arrive.

• Note that driving off roads is strictly prohibited.

kringilsárraniThe southeastern corner of Brúaröræfi, a triangular highland plateau named Kringilsárrani, ranges from 625 to 700m in altitude and is bordered by Hálslón reservoir, Kringilsá river and the icy snout of Brúarjökull. Brúarjökull has shaped this plateau, leaving behind terminal moraines perpendicular to the direction of the ice flow. The most prominent of these moraines, Töðuhraukar, was pushed up in 1890 and was named because of its lush grazing, though increasing numbers of grazing animals have since reduced that. Although the Kringilsárrani vegetation has also been affected by the surges and retreats of Brúarjökull, much of it is fairly diverse.

Numerous wetlands and ponds have in recent decades supported growing numbers of pink-footed geese. Reindeer in Kringilsárrani have normally numbered around 200-300. Kringilsá and Sauðá rivers make access to the area difficult, and the following rules have applied since 1975 to protect Kringilsárrani as a reserve: reindeer are protected here and hunting them is banned; motorised vehicles are prohibited unless a special permit has been obtained from the Environment Agency; and no one is allowed to remove vegetation, nor to disturb the soil, rocks or animal life. When farmers farther down in Jökuldalur valley used to drive their sheep into Kringilsárrani, they had to pull them over Kringilsá river in a cable cart in the spring and back again in the autumn.

LANDSCAPE AND NATUREVISITOR CENTRE

Page 2: S1. Snæfell hut – Laugarfell mountain (28-30km) · While there are several possible routes to the top of Snæfell, the one starting slightly south of the hut and ascending from

Snæfell 6- to 9-hr climb from the south sideAt 1,833 m, Snæfell is Iceland’s highest mountain outside of the major glaciers. Throughout history, it has had a substantial influence on both visitors and locals. The original heathen settlers almost certainly nurtured special beliefs about Snæfell, while people in later centuries spoke of whole outlaw communities in its vicinity.

VESTURÖRÆFIThe Vesturöræfi grazing commons lie to the west and northwest of Snæfell, east of Jökulsá á Dal river and south of Hrafnkelsdalur valley. Although this highland plain is generally well-vegetated, despite lying at an altitude of 600-700m, its plant life becomes sparser south of Jökulkvísl river, since the glacier surged over part of that area in 1964. The dominant bird species are whooper swans and pink-footed geese. Vesturöræfi has long been the main summer range of the Snæfell herd of reindeer.

HRAUKARIn its 1890 surge, the Eyjabakkajökull outlet glacier advanced some 3-4km, crossing vegetated ground which had been free of glaciers for centuries. High terminal moraines were piled up and later named Hraukar – the same as the moraines were named in front of Brúarjökull. As some of Iceland’s largest, the Eyjabakkajökull moraines have been the focus of research for decades.

gPs hnit 1 Track intersection at Vesturdalsvötn ................................. N 64° 55.036 W 16° 01.446

2 Track intersection at Sauðárdalur/Vesturdalur ................. N 64° 55.410 W 15° 54.004

3 Sauðakofi ............................................................................ N 64° 49.623 W 15° 47.903

4 Snæfell hut .......................................................................... N 64° 48.223 W 15° 38.479

5 Track turning off the road to Snæfell hut, by Tittlingafell N 64° 52.037 W 15° 32.312

6 Track intersection NE of Nálhúshnjúkara ......................... N 64° 51.799 W 15° 29.717

7 Intersection of Kárahnjúkar Road/road to Snæfell hut .... N 64° 53.730 W 15° 31.409

8 Track to Laugarkofi hut, NE of Laugarfell ........................ N 64° 53.099 W 15° 23.489

9 Laugarkofi hut ..................................................................... N 64° 53.133 W 15° 20.258

10 Hrakstrandarkofi hut........................................................... N 64° 50.403 W 15° 22.378

11 Hálskofi hut ......................................................................... N 64° 46.143 W 15° 29.180

12 Eyjakofi hut ......................................................................... N 64° 43.800 W 15° 27.000

13 Geldingafellsskáli hut ......................................................... N 64° 41.650 W 15° 21.620

14 Tunguárfellskofi hut ........................................................... N 64° 52.300 W 15° 11.500

15 Kleif ruins ............................................................................ N 64° 57.082 W 15° 11.733

16 Sturluflöt farm .................................................................... N 64° 55.343 W 15° 03.586

Þjófadalir 4-6 hrs from the Snæfell hut Þjófadalir means “thieves’ valleys”. An East Icelandic folk tale says that 18 thieves once hid out in a cave behind a waterfall in a river (Þjófadalsá or Þjófagilsá) which ran out of Þjófadalir between Snæfell and the Þjófahnjúkar foothills. They stole sheep and even robbed people down in the Fljótsdalshérað valleys.

EyjAbAKKARLying from 650 to 680m in altitude and stretching from the ice of Eyjabakkajökull to the cascades of Eyjabakkafoss, Eyjabakkar consists of marshes, ponds and islets. With 133 plant species currently identified, the area is outstanding for its biological diversity. The bird life includes huge flocks of pink-footed geese that gather near the glacier in July to moult their flight feathers.

GELDINGAFELL 15km from Kelduárlón reservoirLocated at the NE corner of Vatnajökull, Geldingafell peaks at 1,087m and stands out in the landscape. The hut at the foot of the mountain, owned by the Touring Club of Fljótsdalshérað, is intended solely for hikers and can sleep 16 in sleeping bags.

brúarjökull 20km from the Snæfell hutNot only does Brúarjökull make up Vatnajökull’s largest outlet glacier, but it is even more famous for its tremendous surges, occurring at intervals of 80-100 years. The last such surge took place in 1963-64. The greatest surge, in 1890, advanced about 10 km into the eastern part of Kringilsárrani. Brúarjökull feeds four major rivers: Jökulsá á Dal, Kringilsá, Kverká and Kreppa.