organic -awareness training

7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training

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ORGANIC Textiles

-Awareness Training

On 24.11.2007

AtArmstrong Knitting Mills, Tirupur


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Cotton types

Conventional Cotton

Organic Cotton


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Conventional Cotton

Land : Previously cultivated with pesticides /

chemicals / fertilizers

Seeds : Any thing (Genetically Modified or

conventional etc) During cultivation : usage of any pesticides,

insecticides or Fertilizers which are TOXIC

(poisonous) in nature to human health

Sprays / solid items spread on surface


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Organic cotton

ADVANTAGES

25% Less water required

Less impact on the environment

Maintain the fertility of the soil

Production cost 13-20% lower than the Conventional cotton

FACTS (against conventional cotton)

10-15% of land only used (85-90% for Conventional cotton)

Yield is 4-6% lower than conventional cotton

1.4% only available in India.


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Current Situation of the Market

Organic market growth:

Over the last five years the US and Canada has experienced a22 per cent increase in organic textiles sales.

Over the next five years the US predicts a 44 per cent growth inorganic clothing sales, with baby products to be the next majorgrowth area.

Over the last five years expenditure on organic cotton textile

products has increased by 30 per cent in Europe.

SOURCE magazine : Organic Monitor, 2006


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Why buying organic textile?Health Concern:

Consumers want natural and organic fibers:

The skin is our biggest organ. It contributes to the metabolism and to the respiration of thebody. It is sensitive to heat and cold, to humidity and to dryness.

The choice of clothing has an important influence on the well-being. The pure natural fibre isin a certain way a continuation of the human skin on the outside. It lets the skin breathe.Synthetic fibres however do not allow this breathing and makes you feel uncomfortable.

Cotton is very skin kind because it allows circulating air and it does not hinder the skin in thehumidity . Especially for allergic persons it is very recommendable, due to its smooth fibresurface.

Allergies and asthma arise from loss of the bodys natural resistance to allergens,often beginning with early exposure to the incredibly intensive chemical farming andindustrial treatment, of the foods we eat, and fabrics we wear and sleep on.

Our ancestors did not suffer these maladies, because modern industry since 1945 haschemically saturated everything: our homes, fabrics, foods, and air.

Try replacing conventional bedding with untreated organic cotton sheets and bedding.These natural fibres breathe better, and so do their owners.

Source : GREENPEACE ACTION


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Environment Concern:

From the early days of the industrial revolution, the textile industry has been seen as amajor polluter of rivers .Textile effluents were generally all directed to watercourses, oftenwith no prior treatment to remove contaminants .

Now the situation has evolved and the textile industry is closely regulated but still most ofthe chemicals and dyes entering in the textile process are of petrochemical origin.

When consumers buys an organic textile, they want to participate to the reduction ofpollution. They are not concerned only by their well being but they want toencourage the Clean textile Industry.

Recent climate changes has made people realized that human impact on the environmentwill lead to unbearable living conditions.

If we want to live in harmony with nature, we should urgently reduced any type of pollutionand the use of chemicals.

Before the industrial revolution, textile industry was using natural product, if theycould do it by then, we are able to do it now!

Why buying organic textile?


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Products present in the organic textile market:

Casual for men & women, Sport textile, home textile, hygiene textile.

Products with a great future in organic textile market:

Baby products: Mothers aware of the effect of chemicallytreated cotton on child skin.

Products in direct contact with skin: towels, underwear,

bed linen

Products to be developed for a solid market:Formal textile products: designated for the upper working class with a

high paying capacity.

Organic textile Market needs?


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Organic textilesField of application

The inspection procedure defined in the standards applies to the

whole production process :

Preparation and processing of fibres (mechanicalprocess)

Manufacturing of the fabric (weaving, knitting)

Finishing (bleaching, dyeing, printing)

Manufacturing and labelling of the final product.

All the proper production site and the sites for outsourcing activities will be inspected

once a year.


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Overview of the Textile Industry Raw materials

Origin of the textile industry : use of only natural fibres.

Plant origin: cotton, flax, hemp or animal origin: wool, silk.

Synthetic Fibre: Fibres derived from petroleum polymers (acrylic, polyester andpolyamide)

Artificial Fibre: Fibres derived from natural polymers but processed with chemicalreaction.

1990: chemical fibres = 45% of world production

= 42,5 million tonnes.

Cert. Body allows : maximum of 5% of chemical fibres for technicalnecessity only

Cotton: 25%of the pesticides used in the world for only 2.5 % of the agriculturesurface


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Spinning, weaving and knitting

Synthetic finishers are prohibited, permitted are only finishers of natural originsuch as those listed below for spinning, weaving and knitting: cellulose, dextrin,gums and plant-derived resins, clay, chalks, unmodified starch, pectin, alginates.

It is permitted to use paraffin for wool knitting and cotton spinning insofar it

cannot be substituted by a non-petrochemical substance up to now.

Work with auxiliaries suppliers to find natural substitute for actual auxiliaries

coming from petro-chemistry.

Progressive standards to allow technological evolution:

Same product available in natural origin and in petrochemical origin: Go for the

Natural One.

Silicones (substitution by alkyl poly-glucoside, fatty acid derivatives)

Overview of the Textile Industry


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Organic TextilesInspection Process

Manufacturer and distributor are both submitted to annual inspections.Inspected criteria are:

Transport, Stock:

For every transport of certified raw materials or finished products, the containersshould be clearly labeled with the name and address of the certification body.

Storage of organic and non organic products should be clearly identified andprotected from mixing risks.

Traceability through the whole chain:

Suppliers and Lot numbers of the raw materials should be easy to recall from themanufacturing, packaging sheets.

Processes, hygiene and cleaning of manufacturing facilities.

Manufacturing procedures should be written for the operators in charge.

Knowledge of the procedures by the operator would be checked during the inspection.

A cleaning procedure for every step of manufacturing should be written and presentedduring the inspection.

Energy management, Waste management

Written procedures concerning the waste management (selective sorting), thedischarge management and the energy management system with programme forimprovement will be asked


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Organic TextilesInspection Process

Management of liquid evacuations.Thewater resulting from the pre-treatment or dyeing operations should be treated andanalyse before any reject in the environment.

A register of water analysis should be presented to the inspector, these analysis shouldbe in conformity with the local regulation.

Quality of the finished product

The color fastness of the products will be tested according to the ISO 105 norms.Criteria for acceptance are defined in the standards.

Any quality control (default) should be registered and the procedure should bepresented to the inspector.

Packaging

The technical data sheet of the packaging material should be approved. Allowed areany recyclable material. PVC, polystyrene, acrylate polymers are not allowed.

Global quality system management

The quality system will be evaluated (traceability from raw material to finishedproduct, complaint registration)


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Organic textiles

Important

No contamination of

Organic cotton

allowed for any

reason


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Organic textiles

Important steps to follow

1. Proper Identification of Organic

materials in all stages(Yarn, Grey & processed fabrics, cut

panels, Sewn garments semi

finished / finished, during packing,

and delivery).Sticker / Boards or dedicate packs

for Organic materials


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Organic textiles


2. Proper STORAGE of materials in

all stages (Yarn, Grey & processedfabrics, cut panels, Sewn garments

semi finished / finished, during

packing, and delivery).

Covering with proper re-cyclable PPmaterial or with organic fabric

covers

Providing separate area for this

items


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Organic textiles


3. Proper HANDLING METHODS of

materials in all stages

No mixing of conventional cotton and ORGANIC

cotton items

No usage of any chemicals or Petroleum

products

No phenyl / Dettol / cleaning chemicals used for

factory cleaning & storage areas cleaning

Hand cleaning before touching items

Footwear to be clean or avoided in production


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Organic textiles


3. Maintenance of Records in all

stages

Traceability of ORGANIC items is must from yarn

to delivery. Hence, Records shall identify the LotNO./ Order NO. etc in all Records

Mention the Organic details in all transactions

and material movements

Maintain these records carefully for at-least one

year. For Transaction Certificate fromcertifying body.

If any querry/ Claim from Customer after

delivery, these records are very important to

safeguard company interest.


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Organic Textiles- Certification

Minimum SOCIAL CriteriaApplies to processing level only

1. No CHILD LABOUR

2. No Forced Labour or Bonded Labour

3. No Discrimination practiced

4. No Harsh or in-humane treatment is allowed

5. Freedom of Association, collective Bargaining respected

6. Safe & hygienic working conditions

7. Wages, benefits

8. Employment is freely chosen

9. Working hours per week, weekly off & Overtime

10.Regular employment provided


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Organic Textiles-

Certification

Quality Assurance System :-

Audit of Processing and

Manufacturing stages

Residue Testing


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SPINNING

Paraffin, Paraffin Oils and

Substances on Basis of Natural

Raw Materials only allowed


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KNITTING

Knitting Oils must NOT contain

Heavy metals.

Other inputs are allowed on basisof Natural Raw Materials only


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Pre-Treatment, Wet ProcessingProhibited : Ammonia Treatment, Optical Brightening

Allowed : Mechanical / Thermal treatments

Allowed with

Conditions : Bleaches (Oxygen based)

Mercerization (allowed with Auxiliaries thatmeet the basic requirements as set in

standards)

Alkaline must be recycled


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PRINTING

Natural and other auxiliaries and

Synthetic dyes that meet the

requirements stated in STD.

Discharge Printing methods are

prohibitedAZO dyes are prohibited


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Finishing

Mechanical, thermal and Other physical finishing

methods, Natural auxiliaries and GMO free

enzymes are allowed.

Synthetic Auxiliaries are permitted for softening,

Milling and Felting (but they must meet STD

requirements)

Flame proofing auxiliaries are exceptionally

permitted if their use is legally required in the

country and for the product. (But they meet the

STD requirements)


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PRINTING







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AccessoriesIN GENERAL ;

All accessories must meet the residue limits

No Threatened timber

No PVC, Nickel or Chrome

EMBROIDERY YARNS, LABELS, INLAYS : Originated from Natural

fibres and Viscose only.

SEWING THREADS, ELASTIC BANDS, YARNS & SEAM BINDINGS:

Natural and synthetic

APPLIQUE : Natural materials only.

BUTTONS & PRESS STUDS: Allowed are natural Raw materials and

Metal. Metal buttons must be free of CHROME & NICKEL.ZIPS: Allowed are tapes of Natural Materials and Polyester. Allowed

are Chains of Metal (free of Chrome & NICKEL) and plastics

(without PVC).

BUCKLES: Allowed are tapes of Natural Materials and Polyester.

Allowed are Chains of Metal (free of Chrome & NICKEL)


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Other elementsEnvironmental Management (Policy, Procedures for control)

Waste Water Management (pH, COD, temp, Copper, etc)

Storage, Packaging and Transport

Record keeping, Internal Quality Assurance

Technical Quality Parameters (as per standard)


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PRINTING






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