let's eat july issue
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DESCRIPTIONComing off from our first year, we head on back to the place we started off in our first issue, Bonifacio Global City, the metro’s prime piece of real estate where the buzziest restaurants usually open. This month’s roster of restaurants have all gained their fair shape of superlatives, from being crowned as the city’s best restaurant to having the best mac and cheese in the city.
VASK S I LK ROAD THE BOWERY T I PPLE & SLAW THE CAKE CLUB
JULY 2014 ISSUE NO. 14
WHAT 'S INS IDEJULY 20 14 ISSUE NO . 1 4
12THE CAKE CLUB
15TIPPLE & SLAW
FERNANDO MIGUEL BELMONTEPublisher
DON JAUCIANManaging Editor
THYSZ ESTRADAEditorial Associate
PATRICK DIOKNOArt Director
SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZWriter
CRU CAMARA & RALPH HILARIOPhotographers Assistants
LUCIEN DY TIOCOHead of Sales & Marketing
ANNALYN DELGADOEditorial Assistant
Golden Letter Publishing,1497 E. Rodriguez Ave., Quezon City
For inquiries, call 5277901 local 132 or email firstname.lastname@example.org
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Coming off from our first year, we head on back to the place we started off in our first issue, Bonifacio Global City, the metros prime piece of real estate where the buzziest restaurants usually open. This months roster of restaurants have all gained their fair shape of superlatives, from being crowned as the citys best restaurant to having the best mac and cheese in the city.
Of course, you cannot talk about Vask without the distinguished background of Chef Chele Gonzalez and his apprenticeship with Ferran Adria. But while it might just be a mere act of namedropping, Chef Chele has proved his own mettle, proven by the immense respect and adoration given to him and his food by Manilas most fickle gourmands. The same can be said of Chef Cecille Chang of Silk Road, whose command over Thai food is undisputed. Her sharp focus on the cuisine is present on Silk Roads refined menu. Dining there is a delightful experience for everyone whos been smitten by the flavors of Siam.
And lastly, though its not an achievement we lightly award to anyone, the Lets Eat team has finally encountered the best Mac and Cheese in town in The Bowery. Description can act as a substitute for its lingering memory but its really better if you head on to the restaurant as soon as you can.
ED ITOR 'S NOTE
Mieng Kham from Silk RoadPhoto by GABBY CANTERO
ON THE COVER
LET'S EAT July 2014
The best mac and cheese in the metro? Head on to The Bowery, the third New-York themed restaurant from the group that brought us L.E.S. Bagels and Nolita
M E A N S T R E E T SBY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ PHOTOS BY GABBY CANTERO
LET'S EAT July 2014
A brief history lesson about the Bowery: in the late 1800s, it used to be one of the toughest districts of Manhattan, and a gang called The Bowery Boys was so notorious they were depicted in Martin Scorseses award-winning film, Gangs of New York. Decades after the end of World War II, all the way up to the 1970s, this district had an unflattering reputation as the citys skid row, the home of the homeless, the axis of alcoholics. These days, however, thanks to gentrification and revival efforts from its citizens and the city government, its more flatteringly famous as the American birthplace of punk rock, thanks to the legendary club CBGB, and interestingly, the Bowery is now the center of specialized stores that cater to the restaurant industry. By coincidence or perhaps by design, a brand new restaurant, The Bowery, is set to become Manilas new center for New Yorks comfort food.
These days, the term comfort food is considered overused and overwrought by several food enthusiasts. Too many restaurateurs have come up with uncomfortably mediocre and unnecessarily complicated renditions of the trend benedict that, bacon thisso much so
that many diners have become wary of the words. As a loyal fan of that easy-to-love and simple sustenance cuisine that I consider as breakfast all day or hangover specials, Im very grateful to the youthful gangokay, groupbehind the new restaurant right by Bonifacio Global Citys Burgos Circle; for like the Statue of Liberty, it has become a beacon to every person who seeks true comfort in real food.
The same group is behind other Big Apple inspired restaurants: Podiums Borough (where I go for a that most comforting of combinations, Moms Milk and Cookies); Little Italy-style pizzas at Nolita at Bonifacio High Street; and whats been lauded as the go-to bakery for the best bagels in Metro Manila, L.E.S. Bagels up in McKinley Hill. Chef Cuit Kaufman is the mastermind of the menus behind all these establishments that pay homage to his native New York. A few years ago, the graduate of SoHos French Culinary Institute came to Manila to party, and by his own admission, the party never ended. Thanks to him and his partners, thousands of happy Filipino food lovers are partying on. And with Bowerys recent opening, the partys gotten even bigger and better.
The words out on whats arguably
T H E W O R D S O U T O N W H A T S A R G U A B LY T H E B E S T M A C A N D C H E E S E I N T H E C O U N T R Y . T H E P L E A S U R E I D E R I V E D
F R O M T H I S D I S H W A S A L M O S T A S S E R T I V E LY S E X U A L I N N A T U R E . 03
LET'S EAT July 2014
the best mac and cheese in the country. Bowerys take on the classic has a blend of cream cheese and mozzarella, spiked with crme frache, and into the al dente mix goes a generous, gorgeous sprinkling of chunks of fresh lobster. Yes, lobster. The pleasure I derived from this dish was almost assertively sexual in natureseduction in a bowl.
Chef Cuit is also famous for his baking and breads. Among them, the brioche, baked in-house daily, which is used for Bowerys bestselling lobster and shrimp roll, a po boy stuffed with those wonderful crustaceans, avocados, arugula, and for even more brightness, the whole showered with lemon aioli.
For dessert, Death by Chocolate takes the cake. Composed of seven components: fudge brownie, chocolate ganache, mocha meringue, dark chocolate mousse, chocolate truffle cake, chocolate buttercream frosting, and a rich chocolate fudge crumble. You cant say youve truly lived until youve taken a bite of this epic masterpiece of the dark chocolate arts.
Simply great food, or great simple food. Call it what you will. Bowerys both. Itll put you in a New York state of mind. All thats really missing is Billy Joel on the piano, crooning by the corner. A breezy balcony overlooking the quiet urban neighborhood. The interiors, all dark wood and faded brick, give the new restaurant a cozy lived-in feel. Completely comfortable. And thats exactly what a restaurant that banners comfort food is supposed to do. Coming to The Bowery is like coming home.
RECOMMENDED D ISHES
Baked Camembert, Braised Short Rib Grilled Cheese, Lobster Shrimp, Truffle
Mac and Cheese, Bowery Steak, Death by Chocolate Cake
PR ICE RANGE
STARTERS P180 (Raw Oysters in a Half-Shell) to P1200 (Mac & Cheese)
SALADS P280 (Mocs Sweet Chile Beaner) to P390 (Manhattan Greek)
ENTREES P480 (Roasted Rosemary Chicken) to P2400 (Fish of the Day)
ALL DAY BREAKFAST P160 (2 Eggs, Any Style) to P320 (Buttermilk Waffles)
PASTA P380 (Linguini with Mussels and Clams) to P520 (Salmon Mascarpone
Bow Ties)BURGERS AND SANDWICHES
P250 (Chicken Kebab Pita) to P860 (Bowery Burger)
The Bowery NYC Comfort FoodF151 Forbeswood Heights, Rizal Drive
cor. Burgos Circle, Bonifacio Global City Taguig
0936 929 6073
1. The bar upstairs features live music from local DJs on weekends, perfect for upbeat dinner and drinks. Give in to the
temptation and have a glass of the sangria that features prominently on the bar.
2. Chef Cuit is also well-known for his pastry creations and you cannot miss his version of Death By Chocolate cake. Ask for his famous bagels that you can cross-order by request from their sister bagel
1 Lobster Shrimp Roll2 Braised Short Rib Grilled Cheese3 The Bowerys interiors4 Lobster Shrimp Truffle Mac and Cheese5 Baked Camembert
LET'S EAT July 2014
T W O F O R T H E R O A DBY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ PHOTOS BY GABBY CANTERO
The inimitable Cecille Chang, hailed as the Queen of Thai Cuisine in Manila, and the enchanting journey to Silk Road
LET'S EAT July 2014
1 Thai Ravioli2 Mieng Kham3 Mango Sticky Rice4 Silk Nest5 Silk Roads interiors
With great fondness, I still look back at that restaurant in Greenbelt Park. It was the first Thai restaurant that resonated
with me, the place where I met, and fell in love with Tom Yum soup. To this day, I still can taste its tang and picture its presentation. I enjoyed many memorable meals there, and I still miss it. Its long gone now, replaced by the gleaming structure thats Greenbelt 5. But back in the 1990s, it was among the hottest restaurants in what was then, arguably, the best strip of dining destinations in the city. Among them, the original New Orleans, the venerable La Tasca, the beguiling Beverly Hills Deli, the dark and cozy San Mig on the lower ground level, and a block away, the esteemed Prince of Wales. Restaurants with so much intrinsic character, so unlike many of the new ones that have been popping up lately, so similar and not fab at all, what with their pre-fab interiors and menus.
Which is why Im very pleased that my current favorite Thai restaurant is overflowing with the owners obvious affection for the cuisine, much like my favorite from two decades ago. Chef Cecille Changs cuisine is chock-full of character, reflective of her own inimitable style. Shes known as the Chef in Stilettos, and a con