A,t;(le

Effect of Katha leaves dye on VAS sheep breed wool

Collection and processing ofwool

Atriple crossed UASsheep breed

wool was collected from poultry, sheepand goat farm, MainAgriculturalResearchStation, UAS, Dharwad.Leaves were

collected from the Department of Forestry,UAS,Dharwad and these were shade dried

and crushed into fine pieces and used as

a dye material for their process.

A RashmP, Geeta Mahale* 1, R K Sunanda1 and MJaved2

lDepartment of Textilesand Apparel Designing,College of Rural Home Science, UAS,Dharwad-580 005, Karnataka

2Department of AnimalNutrition, UAS,Dharwad-580 005, Kamataka

*Correspondent author, E-mail: aicrpct@rediffmail.com

I June hence leaves are left unused. In the

search of new sources of natural dye forwool, authors have attempted extraction

of dye from leaves of this tree and

examined its effect on yam properties of

UASsheep breed wool.

The present trend towards revival of natural dyes has encouraged

researchers to develop variety of natural dyes from various plants for different

fabrics. Among such natural dyes is the Acacia catechu Linn. which is a goodsource of tannin, gum, timber, fuel and fodder also. The leaves of the tree are

also rich in tannin but are left unused. Hence, an attempt was made to dye the

UASsheep breed wool (off white colour) with a dye extracted from leaves anddyed samples were assessed for their physical parameters.

Keywords: Acacia catechu, Katha, Cutch Tree, Dye, UASsheep wool.

IPe code; Int. d. 7_ C09B61/00, D06p 1/34, D06p 3/14

Abstract

Introduction of the wool usually affects.Theabsorption

of dye molecules depends on the polarity

In India sheep plays pivotal role of its polymer and its amorphous nature.

in the rural agrarian economy. Millions Thepresent trend towards revival

of small and marginal farmers and . of natural dyes has encouragedlandless labourers are solely dependent researchers to develop variety of natural

on sheep production for earning their dyes from various plants for different

livelihood. A variety of products are fabrics. Among such natural dyes is the

produced from the sheep farmingindustry Katha obtained from heartwood of Cutchranging from wool and woolen products, Tree,Acacia catechu Linn. (Hindi­

leather and leather products, meat and Khair), used in Pan preparation and formeat products and as manure and milk printing and dyeing purposes. The plantto limited extent. is also a rich source of tannin, gum,

This UASsheep wool fibre may timber, fuel and fodder. The chief

vary from off white to light cream in constituents are catechin andcolour. The variation in colour is due to catechutannic acid and toxifolin.Catechin

act of chromophores. The wool polymer is biologicallyhigWyactive and is used as

is chemicallyverysensitiveto atmospheric a haemostatic. Toxifolinhas antibacterial,oxygen and oil pollutants. Since the antifungal,antiviral,anti-intlammatoryand

amorphous processing of wool involves antioxidant properties.

chemicals and machineries, the strength The tree is leafless during May-

Natural Product Radiance Vol 3(6) November-December 2004

It is evidentfrom Table3 that yarn

elongation before scouring was 6.23%andwas decreased to 4.23% after scouring.

The percentage decrease in yarn

elongation was 30.65.

In general there was further

decrease in yarn elongation (3.32%) after

dyeing.However,post-mordanting methodshowed least decrease (3.39 %) in yarn

elongation followed by simultaneous

mordanting (3.33%) and pre-mordantingmethod (3.26%). Irrespective of mordant

concentrations and mordanting methods

Potassium dichromate had least yam

elongation (3.16%) followed by Copper

sulphate (3.27%), Potash alum (3.41%)

and Ferrous sulphate (3.47%). 1\vo percent mordant concentration showed least

decrease in yam elongation (20.00%)

followed by three (21.27%) and one

(22.69%) per centmordant concentrations.

Effect on yam elongation

and mordents 1 and 2 per cent mordantconcentrations exhibited minimum

decrease in strength (474 and 461 Wtex)

followed by 3 per cent (439 Wtex). Wool

sample mordanted with Potash alum (434

gltex) had least strength and was highest

for Potassium dichromate (476 gltex).The low tensile strength of the

wool is due to relatively few hydrogen.bonds that are formed within polymer

system. When wool absorbs dye solution,

dye molecules gradually force sufficient

polymers apart to cause a significant

number of hydrogen bonds to break. In

addition dye molecules hydrolyse many

salt linkages in amorphous regions ofwool

fibre. Breakage of hydrogen bond and

hydrolysis of salt linkage results in loss in

tenacity.

74.29

109.60

73.40

It is imperative from Table 2 that

yarn strength before scouring was 608 W

tex, which was reduced to 502 Wtexafter

scouring. Percentage decrease in yam

strength after scouring was found to be

17.41 g.

After scouring and dyeing (458

Wtex) the strength of yarn was reduced.Irrespective of mordents and their

concentration pre-mordanting (483 W

tex) method showed least decrease in yarn

strength followed by post (446 Wtex) and

simultaneous (445 Wtex) mordanting

method. Despite of mordanting methods

Table 1 depicts the optimized

dyeing conditions for UASsheep breed

wool. Wool dyed sample of 6 per cent dye

concentration and 45 minutes dye

extraction time, dyeing time, and

mordanting time, respectively showed

greater per cent of dye absorption. Vivid

range of light to dark brown, olive green

and green shades were obtained withdifferent mordents.

Effect on yam strength

Results

Details %/time

- .•... -

-Dye concentration

6%

Dye extraction time

45 min

Dyeing time

45 min

Mordanting time

45 min

Table 1: Optimized dyeing conditions for

UASsheep breed wool (at 640 Iv)

Dye ~~so~tion % .1

2

3

4

s. No.

The scoured UASsheep breed

wool was dyed with leaf extract in

optimized dyeing conditions (Table 1)

using open dyebeaker bath with MLR1:50in three concentrations of mordents in

three mordanting methods. The dyed

samples were allowed to cool and thenwashed in water to remove the excess dye

particles present on the surface and shadedried.

Dyeing of wool

Metallic mordents, Potash alum,

Potassium dichromate, Copper sulphate

and Ferrous sulphate were used indifferent concentrations (Tables 2&3).

ASTM(D22 56-75, 1976) yarn

tensile strength tester was used to study

the strength and elongation and

statisticallyanalysedusing correlation test.

The wool yarns were scoured for

two hours in a solution containing soda

ash (Na2C03 - 2% based on weight of thematerial), soap solution (3% based on

weight of the material) with MLR 1:30

maintaining the temperature of 55 to

60°C. Laterthe wool samples were washed

thoroughly in cold water and shade dried.

Natural Product Radiance Vol 3(6) November-December 2004

Art;t,

Table 2: Effectof scouring and dyeing on yarn strength (gltex) in acidic media

Treatments Mordants Concentration of mordants

1% 2%

436 465

(13.14) 430

505

(14.34)

(0.59)476

478

(5.17)(4.78)

493

486

(1.79)

(3.78)

8.76) (17.13)

479(4.58)

(3.58)426

432

(15.13)

(13.94)430

443

(14.34) 437(12.94)

(11.35)

(28.28)

(17.33)400

440

(20.50).

(12.35)

460467

(8.36)(6.97)

466464

(7.17)

(7.56)

~21 (11.15)

463

(7.76)

483

(3.78)

493

(1.79)500

(0.39)

(3.58)

(16.73)

473

(5.77)

436

(13.14)466

(7.17)

496

(1.19)603

(20.11)466

(7.17)466

(7.17)

(0.99)

(13.74)

500

(0.39)

436

(13.14)433

(13.74)

PA

PDPre-mordanting CS

PD

Simultaneous mordanting

CS

FS

PA

(5.77)PD

420500

Post-mordanting(16.33)(0.39)

CS

475466

(5.37)

(7.17)FS

498430

(0.79)

(14.34)

4'52(7.17)

(9.96)

(5.57)

(8.16)

Figures in Parentheses indicate percentages

Note: PA-Potash alum; PD-Potassium dichromate; CS-Copper sulphate; FS-Ferrous sulphate

Mordanting methodsMordants

Mordant concentration

Before scouring - 608g1tex: After scouring - 502g1tex

% Decrease after scouring- 17.41Combined mean

PA 434PD 476

CS 459FS 464

CD1%1.764

1.882

1.764

CD5%

1.301

1.382

1.301

Natural Product Radiance Vol 3(6) November-December 2004

Arti,'eT' ~

'_'0.""",

Table 3: Effect of scouring and dyeing on yarn elongation (%) in acidic mediaTreatments

.~Mordants Concentration of mordantsMean.•.

1%2%3%

PA

I3.43 3.833.013.42

(18.91)

(9.45)(28.84)(19.14)

PD

3.362.533.022.97

Pre-mordanting

I(20.56)(40.18)(28.60)(29.78)

CS

3.402.563.803.25

(19.62)

(39.47)(10.16)(23.16)

FS

4.003.003.303.43

(5.43)

(29.Q7)(21.98)(18.91)

.98

3.283.2

)(29.55)(22.45)(22.93)

PA

I3.50 3.503.453.48

(17.25)

(17.25)(18.43)(17.73)

PD

3.403.403.003.26

Simultaneous mordanting

(19.62)(19.62)(29.07)(22.93)

CS

3.303.203.203.23

(21.98)

(24.34)(24.34)(23.64)

FS

3.103.863.163.37

-(26.71)

(8.34)(25.29)(20.33)

.32

3.493.203.33

.51)

(17.49)(24.34)(21.27)

;).40

5.4U5.55

(19.62)

(22.93)(19.62)(20.80)

PD

3.303.333.133.25

Post-mordantingI(21.98)(21.27)(26.00)(23.16)

CS

2.903.333.833.35

(31.44)

(16.54)(9.45)(20.80)

FS

I3.60 3.533.763.63

(14.89)

(20.56)(11.11)(14.18)

3.30

3.363.533.39

21.98)

(21.27)(16.54)(19.85)

3.38

3.273.333.32

(20.00)

(22.69)(21.27)(21.51)

Mordanting methodsMordants

Mordant concentration

Figures in Parentheses indicate percentagesNote: PA-Potash alum PD-Potassium dichromate

Before scouring - 6.23%: After scouring - 4.23%

% Decrease after scouring- 30.65

Combined mean

PA 3.41

PD 3.16

CS 3.21

FS 3.47

CS-Copper sulphate

CDl%

0.0383

0.0310

0.0383

CD5%

0.0286

0.0213

0.0256

FS-FelTous sulphate

416 . Natural Product Radiance Vol 3(6) November-December 2004

Table 4: Influence of dye absorption (%) on yarn strengthand elongation in acidic media

No. of samples 36,

36 36

Total

589.9534809.00240.16

Mean

I78.56 481.003.28.rI

0.077 NS0.04NS

•• __ -<eo

----.... -.....

r-correlationNS-non significant

methods and concentrations at 1 per cent Referenceslevel.

Verma N and Gupta NP, Dyeing of

woolen knitting yarn with natural

dyes, Indian Text J, 1994, 104(7),82-85.

Rama Rao D and Gupta VB, Physical

and morphological characteristics ofwool fibers, Indian J Fibre TextRes, 1992, 17(1), 1-8.

3. Rao TR, Dyeing woolen textile,Indian Text J, 1997, 107(11),54-57.

1. pankaj and Singh,Recerltadvances in

wool dyeing, Man-Made TextIndia, 2002, 45(1), 20-24.

On the whole mordanting withdifferent mordant concentrations 2.

increased the dye uptake of UASsheep

breed samples. Dyeing process reduced

the yam strength and yam elongation of

wool samples to some extent. Yarnstrength and elongation showed positive

and non significant correlation with

per cent dye absorption. However,

correlation test proved that there is no

significant difference in the physical 4.

properties. Vivid range of light to darkbrown, olivegreen and green shades wereobtained with different mordants. The

findingssupport a good utilizationofforestbiomass .

Conclusion

The decrease in yam elongation

may be attributed to the displacement of

keratin configuration of wool polymers.Under constant rate of extension i.e.

stretching of yarn may permanently

deform the wool fibre, which graduallybreaks the interpolymer forces ofattraction of the molecule and such

displacement of polymer would become

apparent as a distortion of wool fibre

leading to decrease in yam elongation.The correlation analysis

(Table 4) depicted positive and non

significant relation between yam strength

and elongation. At the same timecorrelation results showed decrease in

yam elongation and strength but the rate

of dye absorption was increased

compared to control samples. Thestatistical ANOVAtest showed significant

relations between mordants, mordanting

Natural Product Radiance Vol 3(6) November-December 2004 . 417