dubrovnik in your pocket no10

DUBROVNIK

Summer 2012

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

What a view! Head up the Srđ Hill for some breathtaking sights under lights.

Action aplentyDiving, Kayaking, Trekking, Hiking! Explore the beauty of the county on and off land.

Europe’s best city guides for more than

20 years

20

dubrovnik#10.indd 1dubrovnik#10.indd 1 6/4/2012 9:25:45 AM6/4/2012 9:25:45 AM

3CONTENTS

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

Summer 2012dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Mail & Phones 52“I just called to say I luuuurve you…”

Getting around 53An explorer’s bible

Shopping 56Take a little piece of my heart

Business Directory 63Banks and stuff

Lifestyle Directory 64Important numbers

Dubrovnik Neretva County 66Out and about around the city

Maps & IndexCountry map 74 Street index 75City map 76City centre map 78County map 80

Arriving in Dubrovnik 6Where the action is

Introducing Dubrovnik 8What’s it all about?

Glossary 9Don’t get caught with your trousers down

Culture & Events 10Renaissance art to island reggae

Where to stay 15Home sweet home

Restaurants 20Enjoy the riches

Cafés 32Where to watch the world go by

Nightlife 35When you just gotta boogie

What to see 38Those sights explained

Diving in the Adriatic 47

Sport 49Climbing, diving and horseback riding

Contents

Photographs and an interview with Ana-Marija Bujić, Dubrovnik’s gem food blogger as she offers specialties

and tip top recommendations in our Restaurants section, pages 20 - 31

Dive into the crystal waters of the Adriatic for a whole new experience, see page 47


4 FOREWORD

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

Editorial Editor Višnja ArambašićContributors Nataly Anderson Marinović, Jonathan Kawaguchi, Frank Jelinčić, Renata Kontrec, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, Jonathan BousfieldAssistant Editor Kristina ŠtimacResearcher Anita Piplović, Blanka ValićLayout & Design Kornelia Kovačević,Gordan KarabogdanPhotos In Your pocket team, Thanks to all the institutions who gave us permission to use their photographs in DIYPSales & Circulation General Manager Višnja ArambašićSales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević[email protected] Management Mi-ni d.o.o

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra 1992 - 2012. Maps copyright of the cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124, Vilnius, Lithuania).

Editor’s noteThe editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Dubrovnik In Your PocketDraškovićeva 66Zagreb, Croatiatel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 [email protected]

ISSN 1846-0852©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.

Printed by Radin tisak, Sveta Nedelja

Cover: Phil Newman, Croatia. One of the participants of the Photo Competition

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The stones of Dubrovnik tell a 13-century-long tale of survival. The Roman city of Ragusa developed into a city-state encompassing the coast as far south as the Bay of Kotor , the Pelješac Peninsula and nearby islands including Mljet and Lastovo. On the walls of Korčula Town , antique cannons still aim across a narrow channel at the village of Orebić , on Pelješac. That’s because Korčula was an outpost of Dubrovnik ’s rival, the Republic of Venice .Legend has it that St. Blaise appeared in a vision in 971 to warn Dubrovnik of an impending Venetian invasion. He’s been revered here ever since. But it’s appropriate that he’s the saint who is celebrated with the blessing of throats. After all, Dubrovnik remained independent and prosperous for more than a millennium on its citizens’ powers of negotiation.Now Dubrovnik has thrown open its gates to an annual invasion of thousands of visitors who come to walk its ancient streets, to see the wealth the city amassed through centuries of trade, and to stand on its mighty walls and gaze across the crystalline seas. So whilst in town some of the ‘must do’s’ include the cable car which takes you up to Srđ Hill for those breathtaking panoramic views. Our IYP special summer edition reveals the secrets of the deep that just might entice you to throw on the goggles, mask, and oxygen tank, and submerge. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival is a cultural spectacle with snazzy world and local artists in music, theatre, dance and folklore. Gastro-blogger Anamarija gives us some audacious tips on local cuisine and there is a whole lot more for you to explore!

It was 20 years ago this summer that the first In Your Pocket hit the streets of Vilnius, Lithuania. Since then, we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with more on the way) and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five million. Always an innovative publisher, we have just launched a new version of our iPhone app, which can now be downloaded for free from the AppS-tore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). You can also now follow our tips on Foursquare (foursquare.com/inyourpocket).

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DU CARD

Daily Cardincludes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions & 24 h public transport ridesNo charge for children up to 12 years old

ONLY 130,00 kn

ONLY 180,00 kn

ONLY 220,00 kn

3-day Cardincludes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions &10 public transport ridesNo charge for children up to 12 years old

Weekly Cardincludes free entrance to8 cultural institutions &20 public transport ridesNo charge for children up to 12 years old

Special tourist discount card

DubrovnikCard

Available at all Tourist Information Offi ces, Cultural Institutions, Hotels, Travel Agencies, ...

Includes free entrance to:City Walls, Maritime Museum, Cultural-historical Museum in Rector’s Palace, Natural History Museum Dubrovnik, Home of Marin DræiÊ, Art Gallery Dubrovnik, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, DulËiÊ-Masle-Pulitika Gallery

Includes: discounts in restaurants, rent-a-car discount, discounts on souvenirs, ...

www.dubrovnikcard.com


6 ARRIVING IN DUBROVNIK


Population:Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612Dubrovnik Neretva County (April 2011): 122,783Dubrovnik (April 2011): 42, 641 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border with Italy. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attrac-tion for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and were just named some of its most pure!Dubrovnik Neretva County: Dubrovnik Neretva County measures 1.783km2, of which roughly half is sea. Islands: An amazing 1.246 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited.Climate: MediterraneanLocal time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Dubrovnik it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

Basic data

Tourist Information Centre Gruž I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 32, tel. (+385-20) 41 79 83, [email protected], www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Q May, October Open 08:00 - 20:00.

June - September 30 Open 08:00 - 21:00.Tourist Information Centre Lapad G-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 3, tel. (+385-20) 43 74 60, [email protected], www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Q May, October Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. June - September 30 Open 08:30 - 20:30, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00.Tourist Information Centre Pile C-2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, [email protected], www.tzdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. June - September 30 Open 08:00 - 21:00.Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board I-3, Vukovarska 24, tel. (+385-20) 32 49 99, [email protected], www.visitdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Dubrovnik Tourist Board D-2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 38 87, [email protected], www.tzdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Tourist information

Arriving in DubrovnikBy boat. There are two harbours in Dubrovnik - the centuries old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town and the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town. Many grumble it’s not the most attractive place in the world, but there are plenty of amenities for weary travellers. Hotel Petka right behind the quayside has great food, good accommodation and you can take a bath or shower there. There’s a fruit market, a large Konzum supermarket, and loads of small shops and travel agencies etc. The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels are located. Getting to town: hop on an orange bus number 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 12kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15kn if you buy it on board. Tickets must be cancelled in the machine next to the driver immediately on boarding.By bus. The city has a new coach station close to the Gruž harbour. Sparkling clean, it’s a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. Ticket office: open 05:30 - 22:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for Gruž habour, where there are ATMs and exchange bureaux. Toilets: inside the terminal, cost 3kn. Left luggage: the garderoba works 04:30 - 22:30, 5kn per hour, every next hour you pay 1.5kn. Public phones are on the platform. Shops and cafes: there is a news kiosk, plus a large Konzum supermarket next door (open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00). Getting to town: buses to town stop right outside the station, take line 1A, 1B or 3. Tickets cost 15kn from the driver or 12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform, or call 0800 09 70 and 0800 14 41.By car. For the time being, there is no motorway to Dubrovnik. Considering how narrow non-motorway roads are, you’re safest sticking with the motorway as far as Split. Do be aware that during weekends approaching August, all roads become catastrophically busy, especially at borders, motorway toll booths and tunnels. Avoid weekends! To approach Dubrovnik, you can either travel:Via Split: From Split, follow signs for Dubrovnik leading you inland. (Avoid the coast road passing through Omiš, a terrible

bottleneck). Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or ID card handy.Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter “BiH” from the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or one of the roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska Gradiška - Banja Luka - Jajce - Mostar is probably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo. When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east and west of the Old Town - try to have a map handy! Check out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr for traffic information.By plane. Čilipi Airport is located 20km southeast of Dubrovnik. I t’s small, clean and functional. There is a restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices and ATMs, a post office and car hire facilities are all to be found in the arrivals hall. Parking costs 40kn for the first 24 hours, and 2kn per hour thereafter. The pay machine for the car park is in the arrivals hall and accepts credit cards. Getting to town: Scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into town (35kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the bus station. Municipal buses no. 11 and 27 also connect the airport to the town centre (20kn), but only run a few times a day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 - 250kn. Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle, Flight info tel. 77 33 33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr.By train. Although Dubrovnik was once served by a scenic narrow-gauge railway, avid train-spotters will be dismayed to learn that the track was pulled up long ago. Those who are determined to travel by rail can still catch a train to either Split (services from Zagreb), or Ploče (services from Zagreb, Sarajevo and Mostar) before continuing their journey by bus.


ARRIVING IN DUBROVNIK

ŠTEDNJA SE ISPLATI.MUDRO UOKVIRENA ŠTEDNJA.GROWING YOUR MONEY.WISELY STRUCTURED SAVINGS.

SPAREN LOHNT SICH.KLUG GESTALTETES SPARBUCH.IL RISPARMIO CONVIENE.RISPARMI BEN STRUTTURATI.

5,00%EUR


8 INTRODUCING DUBROVNIK


Make friends? Just click!dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

It’s easy to understand why the people of Dubrovnik are proud of their city – it just takes one look. It takes a little more effort, however, to understand how deeply this pride runs, and how many, how varied and how rich and justified are the reasons for this pride. And, thank goodness, it manifests itself in a way that is very easy to love: the people of Dubrovnik are known for their gallantry and hospitality. It’s not an empty or boastful pride.

Why does the city look the way it does? Why all those walls and bastions? It was first of all a refugee colony for the people of Epidaurum (today’s Cavtat), who fled from invading Avar and Slav tribes. At that time the land south of Stradun, as the main thoroughfare through the Old Town is popularly called, was an island, offering some protection from attack, but, of course, the walls began to rise giving those first fearful citizens their shelter.

That was in the 7th century. At that time, these lands were under the protection of Byzantium. Following the Crusades, Venice took over, and then the Croatian-Hungarian kingdom. But in the 14th century, by the force of skilled diplomacy, the nobles of Dubrovnik bargained their freedom, and this became a city-state which flourished for four centuries, maintaining independence from feared invaders such as the Turks, and, indeed, cultivating profitable relations with them.

The skill of the people of Dubrovnik in trade and in many other areas led to this tiny city state, then known as the Republic of Ragusa, becoming such a powerful force in the Adriatic that it seriously rivalled Venice’s dominance in the region. And during the heyday of the city’s development, art and culture flourished, leading to a love for harmony in

one’s surroundings, a love of music, and a love of literature which much shaped the language of Croatian that we can hear today.

This love of beauty is visible with every step in the Old Town, this living museum and famous World Heritage site. It can be seen in the galleries, on the theatre stages, and in its annual culmination at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, this year held for the 62nd time. It can also be heard – this is a city of music too, of classical music, but also taking care of the folk vernacular of the coast and hinterland.

Beauty is only skin deep, and this will to harmonise also manifested itself in a rather liberal political system which, for example, abolished slavery at a very early stage (1418). And alongside this respect for humanitarian concerns naturally came, the love of freedom. That’s why you’ll so often see the word “Libertas” emblazoned on everything from flags to the sides of buses.

It’s hard to believe that this miraculous freedom of the tiny Republic of Ragusa, and this economic and political might lasted all the way to the beginning of the 19th century when the Dubrovnik nobles were tricked by Napoleon to letting his armies into the city in 1806. So it’s no surprise that the sense of individuality and collective pride is still so strong. It results, happily for visitors, in a very unique, visible and well-preserved culture that’s a joy to uncover.

Lidija Miščin, Falling in love with Dubrovnik, Srđ viewpoint


INTRODUCING DUBROVNIK 9GLOSSARY

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012

Climate

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January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Epiphany April 8 EasterApril 9 Easter MondayMay 1 International Workers' Day June 7 Corpus Christi June 22 Anti Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland

Thanksgiving Day August 15 Feast of the AssumptionOctober 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints’ DayDecember 25 ChristmasDecember 26 Saint Stephen’s Day

National holidays

on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

ToiletsPublic toilets are few and far between - a far better option is to take the excuse to pop into a cafe for a drink and avail yourself of their facilites. There is a public toilet in the street Iza grada, just behind the city walls near the Pile gates. They’re Turkish style (squatty) but clean - and free.

RoadsIf you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

TippingGenerally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to tip, but leaving 10% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?

WaterTap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

CustomsAll major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of strong alcohol and 2 litres of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture at C. Zuzorić 6 (C-3, Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tel. 020 32 31 91). For further details www.carina.hr or call 01 610 23 25 / 01 610 24 61.

ElectricityThe electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Health & SafetyThe Dalmatian coast is safe and secure, but a cautious eye should be kept on one’s belongings at all times, nevertheless. The Police (policija) are generally helpful in times of crisis; keep in mind that they also perform occasional checks of identity documents, so keep some identification on you at all times.

MoneyThere are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash

Jennifer Lin, Break


10 CULTURE & EVENTS


ExhibitionsEx Yugoslavia 1991-1999 C-2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, [email protected], www.warphotoltd.com. The expression every picture tells a story has its merit. This permanent collection of images presents some of the world’s leading photojournalists that covered the breakup of the former Yugoslavia - from Croatia, through to Bosnia and Kosovo. Photographs by Ron Haviv, Alexandra Boulat, Darko Bandic, Jan Grarup, Claus Larson, Yannis Behrakis and Jon Jones are included. Multimedia video included. June - October

01.05 Tuesday - 29.07 SundayThe Srebrenica Genocide and Bosnians C-2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, [email protected], www.warphotoltd.com. A chilling reflection on the biggest massacre in Europe post WWII. Tarik Samarah and Paul Lowe present the macabre terrors of war whilst also capturing life in Bosnia today; a new spirit within the people, the rebuilding and the path to a better future.

05.05 Saturday - 17.06 SundaySteve McCurry - A Moment of UnprotectednessL-5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Frana Supila 23. See the work of New York based photojournalist Steve McCurry who is best known for his award winning photograph ‘Afghan Girl’. Having covered international conflicts from all over the world, this renegade with a camera presents several of his series from the 1980s until today. Themes differ from landscape shots, portraits to images of war.

12.05 Saturday - 16.06 SaturdayAmel Ibrahimović - When the leaves fall downBukovac House, Bukovčeva 5, Cavtat, [email protected], www.kuca-bukovac.hr. A young Bosnian artist who calls Denmark home, presents a range of drawings on walls that bring to life the atmosphere of a typical garden in Bosnia. His roots shine in his work and the exhibit is in the gallery and home of the famous Croatian painter Vlaho Bukovac.

16.05 Wednesday - 31.07 TuesdaySaint Blaise in History and in the PresentD-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1 and Žitnica Rupe (Rupe Granary). When strolling around the Old City of Dubrovnik simply count the amount of times you pass an image of Saint Blaze, patron to Dubrovnik. You’ll be left dumfound! He lives not only in the walls but in the hearts of city folk and has so since the 10th century. A huge insight is given into his life, his works, his martyrdom and visions that saved this city from imperial attack. As a symbol of the city, his images in art, banners, money, stamps, medals through to statues on city buildings and walls are everywhere. City museums will hold exhibitions that portray the importance of Saint Blaze as seen through art and culture, a true adornment to a much loved Saint.

Dubrovnik in the Homeland War 1991-1995(Dubrovnik u Domovinskom ratu) Imperial Fort, Srđ. Over 500 artefacts are exhibited at the ‘Fort Imperial’ building on Srđ Hill, considered a symbol in the defence of Dubrovnik. It includes photographs, published material, weapons, explosives, war maps and commands, authentic video footage, war memorabilia, flags, diaries and more. The Srđ Hill is also home to a memorial with the names of all the defenders who had lost their lives defending Dubrovnik at that very spot. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.

Homeland War

Croatia’s world recognised National Folklore Ensemble LADO will be appearing at this year’s Dubrovnik Summer Games, the complete programme outline is on www.dubrovnik-festival.hr. LADO (Archives)


11CULTURE & EVENTS

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012

Special events09.06 Saturday - 04.07 WednesdayEpidaurus festivalCavtat, Konavle, [email protected], www.epidaurusfestival.com. The festival motto, ‘Living with Arts’, attracts multitudes of classical and jazz musicians, it holds theatre shows and art exhibits in attractive open air venues. The ‘Young Talents’ series offers upcoming artists the spotlight so they can express their flair and abilities. Other features include Opera in Konavle, and evenings that are a tribute to Tino Pattiera, a great opera singer from this region.

15.06 Friday - 26.06 TuesdayLe Petit Festival du Theatre - Croatia meets JapanD-3, Marin Držić Museum, Široka 7; In front of Church Saint Blaise; Lazareti; Veli Žali, Brsečine, www.lepetitfestival.com. If ever one questions the unity between art and culture then come hence forth. This festival bridges the two prrrfectly with talented artists from fields aplenty (theatre, dance, medicine, haute couture) and more? Come and see the works of such performers as they present their dedications to the Land of the Rising Sun.

27.06 Wednesday - 30.06 SaturdayThe Dubrovnik International Opera FestivalD-3, Atrium of the Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1, www.dubrovnik-opera-festival.com. Love opera! Then look no further as this festival becomes a melting pot for opera singers, ensembles and symphony orchestras worldwide. Artists from Austria, Russia, Poland, Colombia, and Mexico will perform amongst others. The event enriches the city’s cultural offer and is dedicated to the legendary world renowned Dubrovnik opera singer, Tino Pattiera.

10.07 Tuesday - 25.08 Saturday63rd Dubrovnik Summer Festivalwww.dubrovnik-festival.hr. One of the oldest European festivals with over 80 national and international music, theatre and dance performances shown over 7 sizzling summer weeks. In its 63rd edition, this event has all the grandeur with renaissance venues such as the Minčeta Fortress and the Rector’s Palace that bestow a captivating ambience. 2000 artists will show you how the Old City turns into a stage.

Lost the beat?dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

L-2, Lazareti, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 23/(+385-) 091 571 79 63, www.lindjo.hr. One of Croatia’s finest exports, the Linđo folk ensemble is ready to dance its socks off for you every Tuesday and Friday during the tourist season. High-spirited energetic performances with amazing costumes and haunting song will echo through Lazareti, starting at 21:30. The complete schedule can be seen at www.lindjo.hr. Q Tickets 100kn.

The Linđo Folk Ensemble

July – OctoberSea Tur t les - S i lent Seamen of the Adriatic C-4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88.Sea turtles are amongst the many inhabitants of the Adriatic Sea and they come in various breeds and sizes. This temporary exhibition pays homage to these gracious reptiles and offers visi tors an insight into their incredible world, as well as the numerous reasons for their endangered status.

17.05 – 18.10 ThursdayDermochelys coriacea C-4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88.A scientific exhibition dedicated to the research by local natural scientist Baldo Kosić at the end of the 19th century. It is divided into two parts and the central theme is based on the death of the so called ‘sea turtle’ found with two holes on its shell (1894). It compares the methods in investigation at the time to contemporary methods.

Epidaurus Festival (Archives)

B-3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 7301.06 Friday -10.06 Sunday Ivana Jovanović Trostmann - Landscapes10.06 Sunday - 30.06 SaturdayLizzie Hale - Motifs of the City of Dubrovnik01.07 Sunday - 31.07 Tuesday Nela Račić - An exhibition.01.08 Wednesday - 31.08 FridayTony Robinson and Paul Maloney - Dubrovnik City Visions01.09 Saturday - 30.09 SundayElzbieta Stanhope - Ceramics

Lizzie Hale, photo by Stephen Murray Latham, Artur Gallery (Archives)

Artur Gallery


12 CULTURE & EVENTS


11.08 SaturdayThe Neretva Boat (lađa) MarathonBe amongst the 50,000 viewers that attend this spectacle which promotes the protection of the lađa Neretva boat, an authentic, traditional vessel which for centuries was a means of transport. Each year, an amateur rowing competition is held from Metković to Ploče, 22.5km along the Neretva River. Both towns are amassed with people and there are parades, concerts, and plenty of cheer.

05.09 Wednesday - 09.09 SundayKinookus - The Food Film FestivalSton, [email protected], www.kinookus.com.hr. The art of cinema offers a food frenzy as this international film festival preserves and promotes issues relating to healthy food, traditional recipes, food customs, tools, biodiversity, ecology, nutrition and more. As chefs can serve up mouth watering dishes, this festival serves up a smorgasbord of film and motion picture.

07.09 Friday - 16.09 SundayKorčula Baroque FestivalKorčula, www.korkyrabaroque.com. Not rock but purely baroque and such music lovers can choose from twelve concerts with ensembles and solo artists from the UK, France, Belgium, Italy and Croatia. In addition, there will also be lectures and other events pertaining to the musical style, come to think of it; this is a Baroque hot spot!

Opening of Dubrovnik Summer Festival

01.06 Friday - 31.10 WednesdayB-3, Dom Marina Držića, Široka 7. Spruce up your Sunday morning with Slobodan Begić (violin) and Dario Čagalj (guitar) performing concert matinees at the Marin Držić Dom each and every Sunday, from 10:30.

Concert Matinee

What could be a more pleasurable treat than a candle-lit classical concert in the atmospheric sorroundings of St Saviour’s Church right on the Stradun?June, September, OctoberMondays: Sorkočević Quartet. St Saviour’s Church at 21:00.Wednesdays: Dubrovnik String Quartet. St Saviour’s Church at 21:00.Fridays: Slobodan Begić, violin, Nena Čorak, piano, Tomislav Žerovnik, guitar - The best of great compousers. St Saviour’s Church at 21:00.

Candlelight Concerts

18.07 Wednesday - 19.07 ThursdayLado - National Folk Dance Ensemble of CroatiaAtrium of the Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1; Revelin Fortress terrace, www.dubrovnik-festival.hr. LADO, the Croatian Folk Dance Ensemble, was founded in 1949 as a professional national insti tution responsible for keeping the folk tradition alive. It has a repertoire of over 100 choreographed pieces, several hundred vocal and instrumental numbers, and over 1000 costumes representing the folk tradition across Croatia. All material is researched by experts who delve deep into the past but also consider that the folk tradition is created by the people, is alive and free to express itself. LADO really is a national treasure, and if you should get the chance to see them, you won’t be disappointed. Check out www.lado.hr. Q Starts at 21:30.

Steve McCurry


13CULTURE & EVENTS


CineStar Dvori Lapad G-2 www.blitz-cinestar.hr.Dvorana Visia B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4 (St Clara Convent, Stradun). Box office open an hour before the first projection.Sloboda D-3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 25. Q Box office open two hours before the first projection.

Cinemas

GalleriesDubrovnik Art Gallery (Umjetnička galerija Dubrovnik) L-5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, [email protected], www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists since the beginning of the 20th century. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30kn.The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ronald Brown Memorial House (Galerija Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika/Memorijalna kuća Ronald Brown) D-3, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 72, [email protected], www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This fine house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a gallery with some of the finest views in Europe - the windows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside. The three painters that make up the gallery’s title are famous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly, candy-coloured landscapes are a particular joy, and it’s a wonder that this little-frequented attraction doesn’t get a whole lot more visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to Dubrovnik. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn.

The Sponza Palace (Palača Sponza) D-3, Svetog Dominika 1. For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance detail, this was always a public building. Directly facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of public life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs house - all the Republic’s trade passed through here. It was built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević. Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and Kinookus

venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92 (December - April 30 Open 10:00 - 15:30. May - May 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission free). The upper galleries were once the place where the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic. In the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for research purposes.


14 CULTURE & EVENTS


21.05 Monday – 16.08 ThursdayRe-Vel-In Festival 2012 D-2, Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Revelin), www.clubrevelin.comEnter the Culture Club at the magnificent Revelin Fortress where thousands of worldly travellers boogie and party till the early morning hours. A star studded line-up of DJs ought to blow your summer away including James Zabiela, Fatboy Slim, Martin Solveig, Pail Van Dyk, Axwell, Umek and Riva Starr.. An electronic dance spectacle with salsa and karaoke nights in between to help break the rhythm.

Club Nights

War Photo Limited C-2, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, [email protected], www.warphotoltd.com. A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war by leading photographers - essential for anyone interested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning - if sometimes disturbing - images. Q June - September 30 Open 10:00 - 22:00. May, October Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Closed November - April. Admission 30kn.

War Photo Limited

Josip Ruđer Bošković was undoubtedly one of the greatest minds of the 18th century. He was born in Dubrovnik and this year marks the 300th anniversary of his birth. Bošković was an astronomer, surveyor, hydrographer, mathematician, philosopher, diplomat, archaeologist, architect and poet. His most significant work was in the fields of mathematics, geometry, astronomy, geodesy, optics and physics. He was exceptionally prolific, publishing a great body of work that laid the foundations for modern science during his career, which spanned 50 years and was mainly spent in Milan, Paris and Rome. He was a member of the Scientiarum et Artium Institutum atque Academia in Bologna (1746), a corresponding member of the Paris Academy of Sciences (1748), a honorary member of the Tsar’s Academy of Sciences in St Petersburg (1760) and a member of the Royal Society in London (1761). Bošković left his native Dubrovnik at an early age after completing his elementary education at a Jesuit school, and he went to Rome, again to study with the Jesuits. He took the vow and entered the order as a priest until the order was suppressed in 1773. Despite the fact that he was a priest, he was a follower of Copernicus’ system, but was also the one to propose the repair of the cupola of St Peter’s in Rome. He returned to Dubrovnik only once in his lifetime, for a holiday in 1747, although he kept in regular contact with his sister Anica and his brother Božo. He wrote regularly to them, and undertook diplomatic duties on behalf of the city of Dubrovnik. He was highly sociable and articulate, but also sickly, somewhat solemn and a little depressive, with a tendency to be headstrong, which sometimes caused him problems. He died in Milan at the age of 76, struck down by disease. He is buried there. Today, a crater on the Moon is named after Bošković, as is the Ruđer Bošković multidisciplinary research institute in Zagreb, the Astronomical Society in Belgrade, the Parish Grammar School in Dubrovnik and a great many other schools, institutions, streets and squares. His image appeared on all banknotes issues in the transition period from Yugoslav to Croatian currency between 1991 and 1993, when the currency was known as the Croatian Dinar.

Josip Ruđer Bošković


15WHERE TO STAY


Cream of the cropHilton Imperial Dubrovnik K-3, Marijana Blažića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, fax (+385-20) 32 02 20, [email protected], www.dubrovnik.hilton.com. Refurbished and reopened in 2006 amidst a blaze of imperial glory, this grandmomma of a hotel, dating back to 1897, is near the Pile gate. Suites have fantastic views, and the terrace and piano bar are fine spots to unwind, as is the elegant indoor pool with natural sunlight. Q147 rooms (139 singles €221 - 401, 139 doubles €252 - 450, 139 triples €293 - 490, 4 suites €460 - 610, 1 Presidental Suite €980 - 1150, 3 Junior Suites €395 - 575). PTJHA6UFLGBKDCwW hhhhh

Importanne Resort Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, fax (+385-20) 44 02 00, [email protected], www.importanneresort.com. Experience Dubrovnik’s first resort. Choose from three

hotels, Neptun (4 stars), Ariston (5 stars) or Royal Princess (5 stars), or Importanne suites (5 stars) that are nestled along the sea. Wellness facilities, sports and recreation, private car park, personalised services and a buffet restaurant that embraces the finest cuisine along with a noteworthy selection of wines. Dine on the terrace or walk along the seaside boardwalk. The natural surroundings are ideal and the resort is only a 10 minute drive from the Medieval City. Special offers are available online as well as state of the art facilities for corporate functions. Q291 rooms (212 doubles 150-235 €, 78 suites 300-450€). PTHAUIFLGBKDCW

Kazbek H-2, Lapadska obala 25, tel. (+385-20) 36 29 99, fax (+385-20) 36 29 90, [email protected], www.kazbekdubrovnik.com. This newly-opened hotel was built in 1573 by the noble family Zamanja as their summer castle. It was renovated in 2008 and still maintains its original beauty. The hotel has 12 double rooms and one suite. All rooms are of the highest quality with air-con, SAT & PAY TV, wireless internet and other features; perfect for guests seeking privacy and culture combined with modern facilities. 20 min from Old City! Q13 rooms (12 singles €253 - 344, 12 doubles €288 - 393, 1 suite €390 - 519). PHA6LGKDCW hhhhh

More F-2, Kardinala Stepinca 33, tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, fax (+385-20) 49 42 40, [email protected], www.hotel-more.hr. This cliff-hugging establishment on the quiet side of Lapad bay offers the facilities of a blockbuster hotel but with a significantly more intimate feel - here at least you are unlikely to be stampeded by hundreds of other holidaymakers whose faces the hotel staff can never quite remember. The décor is slightly more individualistic too, Hotel Imperial


16 WHERE TO STAY


with mood-enhancing squiggly blue-green carpet motifs and bronzey-coloured bedspreads. All rooms come with a trouser-press, a comforting luxury to have by your bedside even if you only treat it as a toy rather than using it properly. There is a small kidney-shaped pool on one of the sea-facing terraces - too small to seriously swim in but a nice touch nevertheless. Breakfast in the café-restaurant on a lovely sea-facing terrace. Q44 rooms (5 singles €150, 34 doubles €190, 2 Junior Suites €350, 2 Deluxe Suites €450, 1 Executive Suite €600). PHAUFLGBKDCwW hhhhh

Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik G-4, Liechtensteinov put 3, tel. (+385-20) 20 00 00, fax (+385-20) 20 00 20, [email protected], www.rixos.com. This grandiose cliff-side hotel, once a Dubrovnik trademark, was totally ruined during the 1991-95 war and stood derelict for ages before finally receiving the full makeover the place deserved. With full-sized trees in the lobby and cool minimalist design throughout, it’s an impressive place. Rooms are decked out in subdued beiges and whites, many featuring glass walled bathrooms (so you can look seawards while showering). The wellness centre covers pretty much everything from a Turkish bath to chocolate massage and a Jacuzzi that can be filled with milk - if you’ve always dreamed of acting out your Anthony-and-Cleopatra fantasies then you’ll never have a better chance. The hotel’s impressively large congress halls are situated right next door to the 24hr casino - is this a metaphor for the close relationship between corporate culture and the one-armed bandit? Q254 rooms (237 singles €190 - 255, 237 doubles €255 - 320, 16 suites €400 - 550, 1 Presidential Suite €2000). PZOTHAUFLGBKDCwW hhhhh

The Pucić Palace C-3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 62 22, fax (+385-20) 32 62 23, [email protected], www.thepucicpalace.com. A breathtaking hotel in a real live palace in the heart of the Old Town. So beautifully decked out in period style, it will awaken the blubbering romantic in the most hardened cynic.The staff knocked us off our feet with their friendly and helpful approach. Q19 rooms (1 single €225 - 295, 16 doubles €325 - 550, 1 suite €775 - 955, 1 Junior Suite €550 - 675). PTJAR6LEGBKW hhhhh

UpmarketLapad H-2, Lapadska obala 37, tel. (+385-20) 45 55 55, fax (+385-20) 45 55 51, [email protected], www.hotel-lapad.hr. A grand old hotel that has recently received a thorough dose of refurbishment, with rooms kitted out with a fresh lick of paint and swanky new bathrooms. The main nineteenth-century building is the kind of place in which you can imagine Hercule Poirot tracking down high-society murderers, although the modern annexe tacked on to the back of the building is significantly less atmospheric. Located opposite Gruž harbour, it is conveniently close to Lapad beach. Q163 rooms (10 singles €107 - 197, 147 doubles €104 - 244, 4 suites €208 - 366, 2 Junior Suites €172 - 330). PHAULGBKCW hhhh

Stari grad B-2, Od Sigurate 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 44, fax (+385-20) 32 12 56, [email protected], www.hotelstarigrad.com. This little antique treasure is hidden in a street just off Stradun in the Old Town. The eight rooms are small but perfectly formed, and breakfast on the roof terrace is one of the highlights of a sunny day. Q8 rooms (4 singles 1005 - 1350kn, 4 doubles 1440 - 1800kn). PJA6UGBW hhhh

Uvala G-3, Masarykov put 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 80, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, [email protected], www.hotelimaestral.com. The brand new Uvala exemplifies clean modern design, a philosophy echoed by the wellness centre (offers Dr Hauschka treatments) and a restaurant offering a full macrobiotic menu. Indoor and outdoor pools, plus internet access in rooms and smallish conference facilities making this a viable business option. Q51 rooms (45 doubles €150 - 270, 6 triples €120 - 408). PTHAIFLEGBKDCwW hhhh

Hotel Rixos

Hotel Lapad

Dubrovnik Youth Hostel I-3, Vinka Sagrestana 3 (Bana Josipa Jelačića 15-17), tel. (+385-20) 42 32 41, fax (+385-20) 41 25 92, [email protected], www.hfhs.hr. Although Dubrovnik’s youth hostel is sadly lacking in facilities, we found it clean and cheerful and can vouch for the comfy beds. A communal kitchen is at your disposal, there’s catering for large groups, and you can rent a bike or scooter next door. Q 82 dorm beds, 17 - 19€ per person. ARBKFresh Sheets B-4, Svetog Šimuna 15,tel.(+385-) 091 799 20 86, [email protected], www.igotfresh.com. One of Dubrovnik’s best choices for budget accommodation in the Old Town, Fresh Sheets is run by a friendly well-travelled Canadian / Croatian couple. Funky, characterful dorms, free breakfast and a guesthouse atmosphere make this place a true jewel. There’s a lively but not over-raucous bar and lounge, evening film screenings, a backpackers’ book exchange, and a list of suggested activities that includes the (highly-recommended) “walking Maxie the dog up Mount Srđ”. Hostel also offers private rooms, for more information about prices contact the hostel. Q 20 dorm beds, 25 - 33€ per person. AGWVila Micika G/H-2, Mata Vodopića 10, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 32, fax (+385-20) 43 71 62, [email protected], www.vilamicika.hr. Whether you’re travelling solo or in a large group, Vila Micika in Lapad can cater from two to twenty. It has both rooms and dorms that are clean and tidy. Rooms are equipped with air-con, TV, showers and toilets. Travellers have free internet access and it’s a measly 200m walk to the beach. Bars, restaurants and a shopping center are all nearby. This is budget accommodation at its best! Q 20 dorm beds, 23 - 29€ per person. PA6LGW

Hostels


17WHERE TO STAY


Valamar Dubrovnik President F-1, Iva Dulčića 142, tel. (+385-20) 44 11 00, fax (+385-20) 43 56 00, [email protected], www.valamar.com. A shining white Toblerone on the tip of the Babin kuk peninsula, this remarkable modern edifice has oceans of glass offering unimpeded views of the sea, the islands and the Blue Flag beach outside. All rooms have sea views, the superior rooms being particularly smart. Price for suite is available upon request. Q180 rooms (180 doubles €130 - 290). PTHARFLGBKDCwW hhhh

Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik F-2, Iva Dulčića 34, tel. (+385-20) 44 91 00, fax (+385-20) 44 96 00, [email protected], w w w.valamar.com. Meeting every expectation this hotel oozes spacious rooms and suites, an indoor/outdoor pool, wellness treatments, restaurants, cocktail bar and more. Buffet breakfast is huge! State of the art architecture meets the natural Mediterranean surroundings. Walking distance to beaches and a bus ride to the old city, perfect for peace of mind. Price for suite is available upon request. Q385 rooms (385 doubles €130 - 290). PHAFLGKDCwW hhhh

Mid-rangeAquarius G/H-2, Mata Vodopića 4a, tel. (+385-20) 45 61 11, fax (+385-20) 45 61 00, [email protected], www.hotel-aquarius.net. Recently given a make-over, this three star hotel includes four apartments and a further twenty rooms that have been garlanded with all the necessities. Eat out on the restaurant terrace, relax in the bar and choose from the diverse local and international cuisine. It is only 350m from the beach and a mere 3km from the historical city. Q24 rooms (8 singles €98, 8 doubles €134, 4 triples €187, 4 suites €158). PALBKW hhh

Argosy F-1, Iva Dulčića 41, tel. (+385-20) 44 61 00, fax (+385-20) 43 55 78, [email protected], www.valamar.com. This airy low-rise has a discreet modern theme, and is only a pebble’s throw from popular Copacabana beach, with a water slide and beach restaurant to keep big’uns and little’uns happy. Or take in the view from the Argosy’s pool with an ice cold beer… mmmm! Q308 rooms (308 doubles €90 - 180). PTHARLEGBKCW hhh

Berkeley J-2, Andrije Hebranga 116a, tel. (+385-20) 49 41 60, fax (+385-20) 49 41 70, [email protected], www.berkeleyhotel.hr. A small hotel with super comfy rooms and we suggest you request the wonderful sea view rooms. Fully furnished, modern in style, free internet, breakfast includes a cold buffet not to mention excellent lattes to get your day going. The hotel is located close to Gruž port so you can catch ferries out to the islands; it’s a 10 minute bus ride from the Old City. Q24 rooms (20 doubles €90 - 165, 4 apartments €120 - 200). PALGCW hhh

Komodor G-3, Masarykov put 10, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 00, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, [email protected], www.hotelimaestral.com. A slightly older, smaller hotel close to the centre of Lapad affords an intimate atmosphere. Rooms overlook a rather lovely pool area, and there’s great outdoor seating for mealtimes. A wide range of free time activities laid on with a smile, and facilities for small meetings. Q63 rooms (8 singles €46 - 108, 51 doubles €74 - 180, 4 triples €104 - 252). PTHA6LEBKC

W hhh


18 WHERE TO STAY


e rm ytthehe ttrurue harmonytthh tt hMata Vodopića 8, 20000 Dubrovnik - Croatia Tel: + 385 20 456 112, Fax: +385 20 456 100e-mail: [email protected]; web: www.hotel-aquarius.net

modern affair aimed at families, spick and span and rather friendly. Prices are per person. Q151 rooms (9 singles €46 - 108, 136 doubles €82 - 182, 6 triples €122 - 255). PTHALEGBKW hhh

BudgetAdriatic G-3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 20, fax (+385-20) 43 35 30, [email protected], www.hotelimaestral.com. A good sized gym and clay tennis courts are a nice surprise in a two star hotel, and an additional host of activities (fancy sea kayaking?) make this a good option for sporty types. Decent, clean and friendly accommodation in leafy surroundings on the Lapad peninsula. Q108 rooms (9 singles €40 - 80, 82 doubles €68 - 148, 17 triples €68 - 148). PA6FLEGBK hh

IslandsHotel Glavović Obala Ivana Kuljevana bb, Lopud, tel. (+385-20) 75 93 59, fax (+382-20) 75 93 58, [email protected], www.hotel-glavovic.hr. Run by a family with a century long tradition as hoteliers on this island and newly reopened in 2004 after full renovation, this lovely stone house in the heart of the promenade on Lopud offers excellent quality accommodation, and has a good restaurant. Q14 rooms (12 doubles €100 - 120, 2 apartments €150 - 180). PABK hhh

Korčula Obala Franje Tuđmana 5, Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 72 64 80, fax (+385-20) 71 17 46, [email protected], www.korcula-hotels.com. Choose this splendid villa in the centre of Korčula if you place historical romance above 21st century glamour - the hotel is rather dated inside, but it has a great terrace and an old-fashioned coffee house. Rooms are spacious and the sea view from the tall gothic windows is spectacular. Q20 rooms (13 doubles €50 - 80, 7 triples €50 - 80). PABK hhh

Petka I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38, Gruž, tel. (+385-20) 41 05 00, fax (+385-20) 41 01 27, [email protected], www.hotelpetka.hr. This functional-looking four-storey pile right opposite the ferry port feels much better inside than it looks on the outside, with neat en-suite rooms decorated in blood-orange hues. Those facing the port offer an absolutely fascinating panorama of comings-and-goings in Gruz harbour, and if you like downtown hotels with a sense of urban bustle then Petka is no mean choice. The hotel’s Taverna Nostromo offers a solid range of local food. Laptop users rejoice: wifi coverage extends throughout the building. Q104 rooms (8 singles €35 - 110, 96 doubles €80 - 210). PHARIFLGBKW hhhTirena F-2, Iva Dulčića 22, tel. (+385-20) 44 51 00, fax (+385-20) 43 56 02, [email protected], www.valamar.com. The jury is out - seventies eyesore or modernist delight? But the rooms are lovely, and the best bit is the bar in the middle of the pool where you can cool down from without and within simultaneously. Loads of sports and the famous Copacabana beach nearby. Q208 rooms (208 doubles €90 - 180). PTHALGBKCW hhhValamar Club Dubrovnik F-2, Iva Dulčića 18, tel. (+385-20) 44 71 00, fax (+385-20) 44 76 03, [email protected], www.valamar.com. 338 rooms and only 150m from the beach. All you need is on site, including restaurant services, pool facilities, entertainment programmes, car parking, washing facili ties and more. 22km from the airport and 150m from the bus stop. Ideal for a family holiday. Q338 rooms (338 doubles €90 - 200). PTALGBKC hhhVis G-3, Masarykov put 4, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 55, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, [email protected], www.hotelimaestral.com. The high spot of the Vis is the rather fine shingle beach with tables right by the water’s edge where you can indulge in sensory pleasures from the Lido restaurant and bar right into the evening. A mid-sized


19WHERE TO STAY


Villas Koločep Donje čelo bb, Koločep, tel. (+385-20) 75 70 25, fax (+385-20) 75 70 27, [email protected], www.kolocep.com. The original Croatian name of this hotel is ‘Vile Koločep’ but suppress your sniggers, this collection of eight three-storey villas set among olive trees makes an ideal laid-back island retreat. Rooms are neat and tidy with tiled floors, minibar, flat-screen TVs and desk space, and Koločep’s sandy beach is mere a stone’s throw away. Q149 rooms (9 singles €110, 81 doubles €160, 23 triples €240, 21 Familiy Rooms €270, 15 Junior Suites €320). PTJHABKCW hhh

Villa Vilina Obala Iva Kuljevana 5, Lopud, tel. (+385-20) 75 93 33, fax (+385-20) 75 90 60, [email protected], www.villa-vilina.hr. The last word in elegance, this villa by Lopud’s Franciscan monastery and a tiny sandy beach has been beautifully renovated in a blend of traditional and contemporary styles to offer superb, well-equipped rooms and apartments and a lovely restaurant and terrace. Supremely relaxing - and friendly. Q15 rooms (12 doubles €120 - 190, 3 Junior Suites €155 - 309). PAGBKCW hhhh

Out of townIndijan Škvar 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 45 55, fax (+385-20) 71 45 67, [email protected], www.hotelindijan.hr. This family hotel is perfectly positioned with beachfront views and picturesque mountains in its surroundings. Furbished rooms have all the amenities a 4 star hotel could ever offer. Friendly staff organise island tour packages to assist visitors. A family restaurant, terrace, swimming pool and spa are just some of its other features. Q16 rooms (3 singles €71 - 105, 11 doubles €111 - 201, 2 apartments €151 - 241). PAFLGKDCW hhhh

Visit Dubrovnik Sun Gardens award winning Spa, and spend your cold winter afternoons in a variety of indulgent treatments, hydrotherapy pool with therapeutic massage jets , traditional coal and salt sauna, hammam, aromatherapy

steam room and much more. For more active leisure time choose between a range of facilities from our comprehensive sports and recreation centre

-a-side football pitch.

www.radissonblu.com/resort-dubrovnik www.dubrovniksungardens.com

Plat Hotels and Villas Plat 47, Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 90 00, fax (+385-20) 48 92 00, [email protected], www.hoteli-plat.hr. Located 12km south of Dubrovnik and walking distance to the beach.New apartments are available for 2 to 3 people with your own kitchen and bath facilities. Car park included.Don’t miss the in-house Taverna Plat a-la-carte restaurant which cooks up delicious traditional gourmet dishes. Q236 rooms (129 doubles €90 - 180, 107 apartments €90 - 220). PAFLGBKCW hhh

Radissonblu Resort & Spa Na moru 1, Orašac, tel. (+385-20) 36 15 00, fax (+385-20) 36 15 01, [email protected], www.radissonblu.com/resort-dubrovnik. Sink into the holiday of a lifetime with this Five Star beachfront resort just 20 minutes from the Old City. Choose from 201 sea view rooms or 207 deluxe apartments with state of the art facilities. Two restaurants offer both local and international mouthwatering cuisines; the Maraska Lounge Bar oozes subtlety and the luxury wellness centre includes out of this world thermal facilities. Q 408 rooms (178 doubles from 250€, 207 Sui tes from 300€, 20 Junior Sui tes from 450€, 2 Executive Suites from 1500€, 1 Presidential Suite from 3000 €). PZTHA6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh

www.inyourpocket.com


20 RESTAURANTS


CroatianBistro Glorijet H-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 16, tel. (+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80, [email protected]. Close to the city market in Gruž harbour you’ll find this lovely old summer residence which has been turned into a bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible prices. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals as a good lunch spot. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 130kn). PAG

Dubravka A-2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19, [email protected], www.dubravka1836.hr. Enjoy your breakfast while the sun rises over the walls of Dubrovnik, or steak, seafood, sweets and shakes throughout the day. Dubravka shares the pretty, shady plaza Brsalje with Nautika (both restaurants have the same owners as Proto, Mimoza and Konavoski Dvori), and has a splendid view of the Lovrij enac, Minčeta and Bokar fortresses, and a peek of the deep blue beyond the walls. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (55 - 150kn). PAUGB

Karaka D-2, Old City Harbour, tel. (+385-) 091 660 00 05/(+385-) 091 358 18 88, [email protected], www.karaka.info. End a perfect summer’s day with a meal at sundown on a replica 16th century merchant ship just as they were made right here in Dubrovnik. It’s all in wood, rather luxurious, and the menu is just great - don’t miss local cured ham (pršut) and cheese. Q June 15 - September 5 Open 19:30 - 22:00. (60 - 120kn). AGB

Komin G-2, Iva Dulčića 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36, [email protected], www.restaurant-komin.com. The “fireplace”, adorned with ironwork and ancient weaponry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where your meal is cooked before your very eyes - try meat or fish “ispod peke”. A good choice in the Babin kuk area. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 110kn). PALGB

Lady Pi Pi C-1, Peline bb. Wine and dine whilst overlooking the grand walls of Dubrovnik and sea. Large platters for fish and meat devotees are jammed with goodies and the food is cooked in front of you on an outdoor terrace with an open fire. The cuisine is freshly prepped and prices are fair. Q May Open 09:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00. June - September 30 Open 09:00 - 15:00, 18:30 - 23:00. Closed October. (65 - 150kn). JAB

Mimoza J-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, [email protected], www.esculap-teo.hr. In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100 meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle your tour group and several others simultaneously, seemingly without a blink. There’s a dining room, but the terrace, shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian dishes. Delivery is available. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn). PTAEGB

P Air conditioning A Credit cards acceptedE Live music S Take awayT Child friendly U Facilities for the disabledG Non-smoking areas L Guarded parkingO Casino 6 Animal friendlyR Internet B Outside seating

Symbol key

Caught by the In Your Pocket team!


21RESTAURANTS


Lucin kantun B-2, Od Sigurate bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 03. “Lucy’s Corner” is a cosy little place just off Stradun, all in sunshine yellow and with wooden furnishings, and a rustic open kitchen where you can watch the chef at work. He cooks up tapas and Mediterranean dishes, plus there’s a nice selection of desserts. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (20 - 150kn). JAB

Magellan I-3, Iva Vojnovića 7a, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 94/(+385-) 095 908 37 41, [email protected]. The first beautiful thing about this restaurant is the natural light that floods through huge windows on all four sides. The second is the magenta-coloured wall covered in modern paintings by artists from Dubrovnik. Third, and most important, is the food. Bread and pasta are home-made; everything is fresh and perfectly prepared, and the service is first-class. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (52 - 122kn). PAGB

Oyster & Sushi bar D-4, Od Pustijerne bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 34, www.bota-sare.hr. A seafood fiesta is on hand with oysters, prawns, salmon, tuna and a whole lot more to choose. The chefs do a scintillating job by making Japanese style sushi for those wanting a breather from Mediterranean delights. Not overly priced but staff are overly nice. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (24 - 135kn). PJAGBXW

Porat K-3, Marijana Blažića 2 (Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik), tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, [email protected], www.dubrovnik.hilton.com. Decked out in minimalist style, this restaurant is on the floor beneath the lobby of the plush Hilton Imperial (there are also tables in the light, bright conservatory or the large summer terrace). Fabulous, Mediterranean and international cuisine - look out for the head chef’s signature dishes. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (100 - 250kn). PJAGBX

Taj Mahal C-3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 099 323 22 12, [email protected]. You guessed it, the Old Town’s only Bosnian restaurant, where you can enjoy good grilled meats including ćevapi - shish kebab. Try one of the pite pies (we love the spinach one). Sweet tooths will love baklava, others will fall into a sugar-induced coma! QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 115kn). AGB

Taverna Otto I-2, Nikole Tesle 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86 33, [email protected], www.tavernaotto.com. This charming little taverna has an atmosphere reminiscent of a French bistro. It’s attracting more and more admirers thanks to its attractive décor, great terrace and excellent food. We especially recommend the onion soup, pepper and tuna steaks and chocolate soufflé. But whatever you choose, you can’t go wrong. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (70 - 99kn). AGB

KonobaBlidinje H-2, Lapadska obala 21, tel. (+385-20) 35 87 94. You feel that ‘Dalmatian’ sparkle here with its old stony walls embellished by ancient artefacts. The restaurant is casual and snug, whilst the terrace offers picturesque views of the Gruž harbour, bay and surrounding hills. Situated in the heart of the Lapad peninsula, the meat and seafood dishes are local delights, and here they are baked under a metal bell, covered with hot ash which produces a delectable roast. Reasonably priced and nicely spiced! QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (40 - 95kn). PAGB

Orhan K-3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 41 83/(+385-) 091 725 51 09, [email protected], www.restaurant-orhan.com. Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile - it’s like something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle of houses beaneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s terrace is, therefore, a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at reasonable prices. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (50 - 140kn). PJAGB

Taverna Nostromo I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38 (Hotel Petka), tel. (+385-20) 41 05 24/(+385-20) 41 05 25, [email protected], www.croatia-vacation.com. The food here is the subject of much praise among Dubrovnik’s citizens, and the ser vice is fantastic. The taverna has a casual feel while the restaurant upstairs is the essence of modern refinement. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (60 - 120kn). PAGB

Zoe F-2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 04 84, www.importanneresort.com. Located on the rocky south-western tip of the Babin kuk peninsula (and a pleasant 15-minute walk from Lapad bay along the coastal path), Zoe is an excellent place at which to sample choice local food on a lovely sea-facing terrace. As well as grilled fish pure-and-simple there’s a healthy sprinkling of traditional country recipes, such as roast duck breast, or stewed frogfish with sage. Starters like breaded frogs’ legs or risotto with boletus mushrooms will probably suffice as a lunchtime main course. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (80 - 150kn). PALGB

InternationalCantina Mexicana Chihuahua E-1, Hvarska 6, tel. (+385-20) 42 44 45/(+385-) 098 58 28 46. This rather pleasant Mexican sits eccentrically just uphill from the Ploče gates and serves up all the usuals: sizzling fajitas, burritos, tacos and chimichangas, plus ribs and wings, steaks and pasta. Try the piquant sausages and a black pancake to finish off with! Q Open 17:00 - 23:00. June 15 - September 15 Open 14:00 - 23:00. (60 - 100kn). PVNBSDomino Steak House B-3, Od Domina 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 03, [email protected], www.steakhousedomino.com. A serious convention centre for carnivores, with steaks done in a multitude of styles. The outside seating in a sheltered courtyard just south of Stradun is especially lovely in hot weather. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (80 - 140kn). PAGB

Galeta C/D-3, Gundulićeva poljana 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 89. Their sweet and savoury pastries are satisfyingly buttery and moreish. Try an apple (jabuka) or frankfurter (hrenovka) wrapped in puff pastry. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00.Klas I-3, Pera Ćingrije 10, tel. (+385-20) 33 16 13. This bakery offers everything you need to survive late night munchies. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.Rusica I-2, Andrije Hebranga 54, tel. (+385-20) 41 13 42. Crusty loaves to go with those fishes, plus pizza and “burek” filo pastry pies too. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.Zlatno zrno I-3, Iva Vojnovića 63b, tel. (+385-20) 33 11 20. A place where you can eat pizza, pancerotta, “burek”, but also delicious cakes all day and all night long! QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Bakeries


22 RESTAURANTS


Jezuite C-4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+385-) 098 74 00 73, [email protected], www.dubrovnikrestaurant.com. Tucked away from the big crowds where serenity reigns and positioned in front of the Saint Ignatius Church. Choose from a balanced choice of fish and meat dishes or platters with excellent wines to dabble. It is typical Dalmatia and we recommend the mussels. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (60 - 150kn). JAB

Linđo F-2, Iva Dulčića bb (Mali Stradun), tel. (+385-) 098 131 90 98, [email protected]. Family restaurant with celebrated traditional home goodies on the menu, hence fresh salads, seafood and a fair range of meats, especially the age old ritual of roast under the iron pot. Simple and subtle, head towards the President Hotel Resort and it is part of the accompanying retail complex. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). PAGBXW

Lokanda Peskarija D-2, Na Ponti bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 47 50, www.mea-culpa.hr. Delightfully old-fashioned in a seafaring style, Lokanda, right on the old Ploče harbour, offers simple fish dishes at low prices. Don’t miss the fried small fish or the black squid ink risotto, and be prepared to wait for a table. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. July, August Open 11:00 - 01:00. (61 - 80kn). PAGBXPjatanca L-5, Koločepska 2, tel. (+385-20) 42 09 49. Head towards Hotel Excelsior east of the Old Town and you come to this simple family run establishment. Seek their advice and you might just get something a little out of the ordinary - real home cooking. Try succulent lamb baked under an iron bell. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 130kn). AGBX

Pupo C-2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55, www.pupodubrovnik.com. Compact and bijou, this konoba offers a limited menu of well-prepared home style fish dishes and steaks, fresh and good value for money. Apart from the Old Town location, the guitar in the corner helps add to the cosy, jolly atmosphere. They serve breakfast. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (60 - 180kn). JAGBXW

Rozario D-2, Prijeko 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385-) 099 315 65 50, [email protected], www.konoba-rozario.hr. On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip, this little restaurant stands out from its neighbours for its family-run atmosphere and homestyle cooking - that’s why you’ll often find the locals lunching here. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 125kn). PAGBX

Light bitesBuffet Škola C-2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble some tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese and sardines at fast food prices. Sandwiches are freshly made with home baked bread. QOpen 08:30 - 01:00. (21 - 27kn). PJNG

Rustico I-3, Vukovarska bb, Lapad bus stop, tel. (+385-20) 780 78 78. By the bus station for local lines, nestled in greenery just beyond the petrol station, this little kiosk offers freshly prepared warm and cold sandwiches. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00.

Tutto Bene C-3, Od Puča 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 53, www.tuttobene-dubrovnik.com. A refreshing discovery for those looking for something quick and tasty to munch: this modern little fast food joint has a super selection of sandwiches, tacos, burgers and pizzas as well as French fries and dips - yummy! QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. (15 - 35kn). JA


23RESTAURANTS


MediterraneanEastwest Beach Club Restaurant L-5, Frana Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20, [email protected], www.ew-dubrovnik.com. In the beach complex by the Ploče gates languishes this hybrid of minimalism and Far East design aesthetics, offering everything from sandwiches and burgers (around 50kn) to gazpacho, plate salads, and a strong selection of international meat and seafood dishes. A classy place for a bite. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (60 - 125kn). PJALGB

Nautika A-2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26, [email protected], www.esculap-teo.hr. The place to splash out in style - a wonderful terrace overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two. Imaginative cuisine inspired by your mari time surroundings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (257 - 398kn). PJAGB

Oliva Gourmet C-3, Cvjete Zuzorić 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 76, [email protected], www.olivadubrovnik.com. This little restaurant is tucked away in one of the narrow streets of the old town. The attractive interior is decorated with a vintage touch in shades of violet. Here they serve Mediterranean food with a strong Italian accent! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. July, August Open 11:00 - 24:00. (90 - 135kn). JB

Panorama K,L-1, Srđ Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/(+385-) 091 486 00 47, [email protected]. Whichever way you climb Mount Srđ, on foot or by cable car, we think you deserve a little treat. This restaurant, right by the top cable car station, has great big windows offering a spectacular view over Dubrovnik and its coastline. The food is excellent. Bring your sunglasses! Q June - August 31 Open 09:00 - 24:00. September - October 31 Open 09:00 - 20:00. (70 - 158kn). PAGBXW

Poklisar D-2, Ribarnica 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 76, [email protected], www.poklisar.com. The terrace right on the Ploče harbour waterfront is a popular spot to take the weight off and relax with a simple pasta dish or salad during a hard day’s sightseeing. Live piano-bar music in the evenings adds a touch of romance to the proceedings. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (60 - 170kn). PJAEGBW

Renaissance C-2, Vara bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 47 99, [email protected], www.renaissance-restaurant-dubrovnik.com. Light, Mediterranean meals with value-for-money lunch and dinner menus. The whole ceiling is hand decorated in floral motifs in shades of gold and red, while this rich style is complemented with photos of old Dubrovnik and the local saying Non bene pro toto libertas venditus auro (Freedom is not sold for even all the gold of the world). QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 150). PAEGB

Sesame J-3, Dante Alighieria bb, tel. (+385-20) 41 29 10, [email protected], www.sesame.hr. An Aladdin’s cave of antique treasures, contemporary music and an eclectic blend of local and Mediterranean recipes orchestrated by the fastidious owner. Succulent lamb in dill sauce, saltimbocca, beautifully seasoned vegetables and pancakes with orange and almonds - everything is sublime. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn). PAGBW


24 RESTAURANTS



25RESTAURANTS



26 RESTAURANTS


Ta v e r n a M a s l i n a F-3, Masarykov put 20 (Dubrovnik Palace Hotel), tel. (+385-20) 43 03 57/(+385-20) 43 00 00, www.dubrovnikpalace.hr. The coolest design hotel in Dubrovnik has an el egan t res tauran t w i t h s e a v i e ws a n d stylish poolside seating. The cuisine is excellent: Dalmatian special i t i es with a contemporary twist, and light Medi terranean tastebud-tinglers. Grilled chicken sandwiches make a great lunchtime treat. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (135 - 250kn). ALEGBXW

Vapor I-3, Pera Ćingrije 7, tel. (+385-20) 33 08 88, www.hotel-bellevue.hr. The Bellevue Hotel restaurant is perfectly located near the city centre and commands an amazing view of its nearby surroundings. Food includes Dalmatian cuisine with an international twist, this vivacious diversity together with an excellent wine list is sure to satisfy the more refined tongue. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (90 - 250kn). PAGBXW

Wanda B-2/3, Prijeko 8, tel. (+385-) 098 944 93 17/(+385-) 098 944 93 18, [email protected], www.wandarestaurant.com. You’ll find yourself ‘wondering’ back to this lovely traditional restaurant that is packed with tasty meat and fish dishes. Dalmatian smoked ham and cheese, octopus salad, calamari, beefsteak, and traditional cuisine are aligned with fresh seasonal groceries. Expect quality service, a cozy atmosphere and only walking distance from Stradun. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 290kn). PGB


Bistro Dubrava C-2, Placa 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 29. Offers classics like ham and eggs in great surroundings. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (34 - 56kn). AB

Komarda K,L-2, Frana Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 31 13 93/(+385-) 098 42 82 39, [email protected], www.komarda.hr. Get the day off to a good start with a hearty breakfast: here you can feast on everything from toast and croissants through rožata (the local crème caramel), to a variety of scrambled egg dishes, Dalmatian, continental and children’s breakfasts - all at reasonable prices. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. (12 - 50kn). AB

Orlando C,D-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 73, [email protected], www.esculap-teo.hr. A perfect spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place has just three tables inside but a wonderful terrace right on Stradun. Apart from home-baked rolls and croissants, you can treat yourself to dalmatian cured ham, scrambled eggs, fresh juice, tea and coffee. A bit on the pricey side due to the prime location. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. JAB

Breakfast

Out of townAdio Mare Ulica Marca Pola 1, Korčula town, tel. (+385-20) 71 12 53/(+385-) 098 24 38 45. Whether it’s the location next to the birthplace of Marco Polo, the great charcoal grilled food or the chef who’s apt to burst into song, Adio Mare has been a Mecca for tourists for decades. It’s the one with the queue waiting for a table! QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (50 - 150kn). PJAGBX


27RESTAURANTS


D o l c e v i t a C - 2 , Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 66. This colourful li ttle spot does great cakes, muffins and ice cream - among the best in town - just off Stradun. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PNB

GradsKavana D-3, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 02 / press 2, [email protected], www.mea-culpa.hr. The excellent city coffee house, for many years a cult meeting place, has a superb collection of cakes. We particularly like the macaroni cake with walnuts and

the almond cake (kolač od mandule), and apple pita is excellent too. Melt in the mouth! QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PJAB

Sugar&Spice B-3, Sv. Josipa 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 39,/(+385-) 091 361 95 50, www.sugarandspicedubrovnik.com. Every once in a while most of us surrender to a craving and this small temple of sweet and salty Croatian homemade delicious cakes, tarts and souvenirs is just the haven needed. It is located in the tranquil part of the Old Town, just beside the Stradun where you can sit on the terrace and indulge in coffee or anything your taste buds desire. Q June, September - October 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 23:00. A

Ice cream and cakes

Homemade Icecream, Ana-Marija Bujić

Ankora Zaton bb, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 89 10 31. The high point of this otherwise excellent fish restaurant is the terrace hovering so close to the sea that you could lean over the railing and draw your hand through the water. Great for a romantic meal at sundown, it’s worth the trip to this little village just north of Dubrovnik. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (40 - 200kn). ABW

Bota Šare Kroz polje 5, Mali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 82/(+385-) 091 175 44 79, [email protected], www.bota-sare.hr. Not as famous as Kapetanova kuća next door, but the shady terrace and old-fashioned stone interior present stiff competition to the rather more modern neighbours. If you’re squeamish about raw oysters, this is a good place to sample numerous dishes containing the cooked little critters. Excellent. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (70 - 200kn). PALGB

Galija Vuličevićeva 1, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 85 66, [email protected], www.galija.hr. A strong selection of charcoal grilled meats including excellent steaks, plus unusual seafood specialities including shrimps in honey and sea urchins - have a go, if you think you’re hard enough! This pleasantly casual stone house has great terraces and is right on the Cavtat waterfront. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn). PAEGBXW

Kapetanova kuća Mali Ston, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 42 64/(+385-20) 75 45 55, [email protected], www.ostrea.hr. Head chef Lidija Kralj is Croatian TV’s Delia Smith, and this restaurant has a countrywide reputation. It’s a crime not to try the fresh oysters from the Bay of Ston directly in front of the sheltered terrace. We were a little surprised by sharp pieces of prawn detritus in the robustly flavourful risotto and by the stale bread (it was Sunday). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (60 - 100kn). PALGBXW


28 RESTAURANTS



Konavoski dvori Ljuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10 39/(+385-) 098 35 78 62, [email protected], www.esculap-teo.hr. Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout) served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 110kn). ALGBX

Konavoski komin Velji dol, Jasenice, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 96 07, [email protected]. Set in the lush rural region of Konavle, the stone terrace has a fantastic view. Everything is home grown and full of flavour: try juicy meats cooked under an iron bell heaped with embers or charcoal grilled fish, a garden salad and home made apple strudel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (45 - 100kn). ALGBX

Konoba Marinero Šetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 72 57/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, [email protected], www.vivado.hr. If you happen to be enjoying the fine beaches of Župa Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into Konoba Marinero in Mlini, where you’ll find colourful tables set in lush gardens overlooking the sea. Great seafood and local specialities are carefully prepared by the lady owner - a supremely relaxing treat. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 130kn). ALGB

Leut Trumbićev put 17, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, [email protected], www.restaurant-leut.com. One of the best places to try quality local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned among locals for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it comes to steaks and seafood either. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn). PAGBX

Obala Obala Ivana Kuljevana 18, Lopud, tel. (+385-20) 75 91 70, [email protected]. There can be few better places to relax over a leisurely Adriatic meal than Obala, set right on Lopud’s waterfront with a trio of stately palm trees offering shade. The menu covers familiar fish and seafood territory with the addition of several chicken-based alternatives and a succulent baked octopus with potatoes. Food prices are moderate; sunsets and the sound of lapping sea-water are on the house. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300kn). PAGBX

Orsan Gverović Štikovica 43, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 67, [email protected], www.gverovic-orsan.hr. This fine family villa has its own beach and moorings, and has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since opening in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto (an carnival of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass that grows at the edge of the sea. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 160kn). ALGBX

Spinaker Frankopanska 10 (Hotel Croatia), Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 55 55, www.hotelcroatia.hr. Ahoy matey! Sea food lovers pay attention as this newly renovated restaurant offers delicious locally caught fish and grill specialties as inspired by Dalmatian and Mediterranean cuisine. Find yourself tucked away along the seashore with splendid views of the Cavtat bay; the fresh breeze and the sound of waves are a stone throw away. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (60 - 210kn). ANBX


29RESTAURANTS


Villa Ruža Donje Čelo bb, Koločep, tel. (+385-20) 75 70 30/(+385-) 098 44 33 82, [email protected], www.villa-ruza.com. The sunset from the terrace is unforgettable as the Mediterranean Sea reflects in front of you. Add to that local Mediterranean specialties served amidst landscaped stone, olive and pine trees surroundings, Villa Ruža is a haven. Chock a block selection of wines. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (40 - 170kn). ABX

Zure Lumbarda 239, Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 23 34/(+385-) 091 512 87 12, [email protected], www.zure.hr. I f you opt to enjoy the shallow, fine sand beaches at Lumbarda, don’t miss a meal at this rather special place. The owners catch, rear and grow everything that lands on your table. The food is excellent, and the pomegranate rakija a unique experience! QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. (60 - 120kn). AGBX

PizzaBaracuda B/C-3, Nikole Božidarevića 10, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 60/(+385-) 091 572 62 65. Claims to be the first pizzeria in town, serving hot pizza pie as big as your tummy! QOpen 10:00 - 2:30. (25 - 80kn). PNGBXSW

Mea Culpa B-3, Za Rokom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 30, [email protected], www.mea-culpa.hr. Serves up a somewhat pricey but reasonable pie - pizzas can be a bit iffy in Dubrovnik. This complex includes a pizzeria, a grill for ćevapčići (shish kebab, basically) and a lovely dark wood pub with a great stack of rock-based CDs on the bar. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (27 - 70kn). PJAGBS

Triton Zaklopat ica bb, Lastovo, tel. (+385-20) 80 11 61/(+385-) 098 177 80 65, [email protected], www.triton.hr. A frequent stop on yachting trips: there’s a mooring right outside the house, and father / chef / fisherman Tonči has a very special way with island-grown capers. Fish carpaccio, marinated anchovy fillets, octopus salad, home made Mediterranean herb rakija - i t’s all the stuff of dreams! QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 200kn). NGBXW

Vila Koruna Pelješki put 1, Mali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42 33, fax (+385-20) 75 46 42, [email protected], www.vila-koruna.hr. The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives, cheese, hams and sensual wines. On offer are also rooms and suites that have been refurbished with state of the art features. The surroundings are lush and neatly secluded. Friendly staff looks after every detail. Q8 rooms (3 doubles €92, 2 triples €115, 1 quad €136). PJHALBKW hhhhVilla Neretva Splitska 14, Krvavac 2, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 67 22 01/(+385-) 098 36 17 00, [email protected], www.hotel-villa-neretva.com. A family run hotel offering photo safaris in the Neretva delta and local freshwater delicacies such as eel and frog. If your courage doesn’t extend that far, you can choose from a solid range of traditional meat dishes including Dalmatian pašticada - beef in sauce with prunes and gnocci. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (50 - 120kn). PALGBX


30 RESTAURANTS



Oliva D-3, Lučarica 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 45 94. In an alleyway behind the Stradun, Oliva seems slightly more authentic than some of the other pi z zer ias in town, a s i f a b i t m ore though t has gone in to the quali t y of the ingredients that go on top of the pie. Pizzas come in sizes of ei ther small (i.e. just about sufficient for one person) or large - the larger ones being big enough to feed approximately one and a half hungry adults, presuming you can find half an adult to share with. Salads, lasagnas and takeaway service also available. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 90kn). PAGBXW

SeafoodKamenice C-3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 82. Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr Gundulić. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (58 - 110kn). ABS

Proto C-2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, [email protected], www.esculap-teo.hr. Nautika’s li ttle brother is not only a little cheaper but also has a wonderful location just off Stradun. Superb food - mainly seafood, but meat dishes kick ass too - a supremely romantic ambience and friendly service make this a strong contender for top dining spot. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250kn). PAGB

YC Orsan H-2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22, [email protected]. The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn). PAGBXW

VegetarianNishta C-2, Prijeko 30, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, [email protected], www.nishtarestaurant.com. Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find vegetarian food from all over the world including Mexican, Indian and Chinese. Choose from falafel, curry, soups and spring-rolls. A lot of thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on the joke. QOpen 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. ABS

D’vino C-2, Palmotićeva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 30, [email protected], www.dvino.net. In a narrow street just off the Stradun, this is a great place for sampling local tipple by the glass, with good advice on what to try from the friendly staff. Attracts a good mix of locals and tourists, most of whom end up engaged in half-sozzled conversation on the stone steps outside. Along with wine, you can enjoy the home made delicacies such as prosciutto, cheese, kulen, olives, and a bit of this to a bit of that for a Dalmatian sensation. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. AB

Wine bars

The culinary repertoire of inland Dalmatia has always reserved a special role for the frog (žaba). Traditionally considered a staple of working families, frogs’ legs are now something of a delicacy, and urban foodies from Split and Zagreb will make special trips to provincial konobe to seek out the best frog recipes. In the Cetina region (Cetinska Krajina) inland from Split, frogs’ legs are usually fried in breadcrumbs or boiled with potatoes. The provincial town of Trilj is a popular gastronomic destination with two outstanding restaurants, the Lovac (021/ 831 268) and the Čaporice in the Sveti Mihovil hotel (021/831 770. In the Dubrovnik region, the reedy Neretva Delta is simply slithering with frogs and eels, and many of the local konobe have become cult destinations for devotees of swamp food. Konoba Vrilo in the village of Prud or Suđurađ i Mate in the village of Vid (both just outside the town of Metković), are the places to aim for.

Froggy flavours

Marko Sirovina


31RESTAURANTS


Culinary art

Meet Ana-Marija Bujić: she’s from Dubrovnik, and apart from being a teacher and translator of French and English she’s also a food blogger. Her blog, Da mi je nešto slatko… (“If I had something sweet…”) has won an award as the best Croatian blog.

In Croatia the food blog scene is rapidly developing, and you can find blogs that are written in both Croatian and English. The bloggers’ community, made up of people of all callings and age groups, has a fair number of treasures, not just great recipes but people who as well as being foodies are great travel writers, telling many a tale along the way. We first met Ana-Marija when she was still a student who loved nothing more than baking biscuits and cakes. Today she’s a queen of the culinary art.

Why not spend a moment with Ana-Marija yourself? She’ll share a few secrets of the Dubrovnik kitchen…

DIYP: “If I had something sweet...” How did you come up with that name?

Ana-Marija: It was a spontaneous thing: the phrase was going round and round in my head so I decided that would be the best name!

DIYP: You grew up in Dubrovnik. Can you tell us about some of your memories of the city as a child? And how do you see Dubrovnik today?

Ana-Marija: Well, I’m not exactly ancient, but the old city has changed a lot since my childhood days. When I was little, the old city was still full of real life. It was a place where local people went for a stroll, to meet their friends, and it was a place where they actually lived. The old city centre was full of shops. You could see people criss-crossing Stradun, hurrying to get somewhere, and behind the green shutters on Stradun there were peoples’ homes, not rental apartments and souvenir shops. Now everything is much more oriented towards tourism and visitors, there are great differences between the pace of life in the summer and in the winter. Within the city walls there is practically no life at all - everyone has moved to other parts of the city.

DIYP: Ana-Marija, when was the first time you tried to make a meal which was your own recipe, and what was it?

Ana-Marija: Believe me, I can’t remember! I didn’t consider it was a moment to remember, that’s probably why I’ve forgotten.

DIYP: What do you like best about your mother’s and your grandmother’s cooking? Are there any traditional dishes you would recommend to people who want a real Dubrovnik gastronomic experience?Ana-Marija: My mother and grandmother will absolutely not compromise when it comes to ingredients: everything must be fresh and bought from trusted sources. Then it’s easy to turn these tasty ingredients into even more delicious food. Both my mother and grandmother are great cooks, and I love the fact that when I close my eyes I can exactly bring to mind the flavours and aromas of their food. Anyone who wants to sample real Dubrovnik cuisine mustn’t miss zelena menestra (cabbage greens stewed with smoked meats) in winter; in spring there’s asparagus with boiled eggs; in summer barbecued fish with a little rosemary served with boiled potatoes and chard, and in winter bitter orange marmalade.DIYP: Is there a traditional Dubrovnik recipe that you’ve published which has turned out particularly well?Ana-Marija: It’s difficult because they’re all so different, but if I had to choose one it would be buhtle (soft bread rolls with sweet or cheese fillings). I love all kinds of pastry, but these cakes have the real scent of home.DIYP: Do you have any insiders’ tips for people visiting Dubrovnik?Ana-Marija: Yes, lots of them! Oliva Gourmet if you love Mediterranean fusion; Proto and Orsan for fish, and the little restaurant Ništa for vegetarians.DIYP: What’s your favourite place in town for a cup of coffee and a cake?Ana-Marija: Believe it or not, I don’t drink coffee so I’m not at all qualified to answer that part, but for good cake I can recommend that you seek out the cake shop Sugar and Spice in Ulica sv. Josipa. They have never disappointed me.DIYP: Finally, can you give us a short and sexy recipe for our readers for this summer?Ana-Marija: In the right company, even the most ordinary recipe can be sexy, but my suggestion is pancakes with chilled mascarpone cream and caramel - you can’t go wrong.

Photographs and an interview with Ana-Marija Bujić, Dubrovnik’s gem food blogger as she offers specialties and tip top recommendations in our Restaurants section.


32 CAFÉS


In Croatia, as in Italy, café culture rules. Life is simply not worth living without a daily gossip over a macchiato. This process seems to last at least five hours, leaving outsiders wondering who the hell does any work around here. So the cafés are always busy, and the coffee usually good. The standard espresso and cappuccino are available everywhere, while a latte here is called a bijela kava (white coffee).Africa C-2, Vetranićeva 3. Among the many little cafés tucked in the side streets off Stradun, this is one of our favourites for the cool artwork and good music. It’s a place where locals catch up over a brew. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PBX

Biker’s Cafe L-2, Petra Krešimira IV /39, tel. (+385-) 091 764 69 19, [email protected], www.bikers-caffe.com. Perched up in a neighbourghood just above Ploče, this place is worth seeking out to meet up with bike fans from around the world. The friendly staff will try their best to sort you out with a place to stay. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNB

Blue Planet G-2, Masarykov put 3. Calling mums and dads: the Blue Planet is unadulterated heaven for you and your tribe. There are special kiddies’ toilets, a case full of picture books, a Nintendo Wii and non-stop cartoons on the TV, as well as coffee, sandwiches, cakes and salads for your devouring pleasure. Also breakfast on offer. QOpen 07:30 - 23:30. PTNBW

Fashion Café H-2, Kralja Tomislava 7. In the heart of Lapad, this is a café dedicated to those who know their Bvlgari from their Balenciaga, with even the occasional fashion show going on. Sunglasses the size of dinner plates are mandatory. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PGB

Festival D-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, [email protected]. This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn’t be better. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAGB

Galerie C-2, Kunićeva 5. One of a plethora of little cafes stroke drinking holes in the side streets leading north from Stradun. This one is nice enough inside, has a couple of shady tables out, and plays the pop, rock and dance beloved of its youthful clientele. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PAGB

Glam Café C-2, Palmotićeva 5, [email protected]. If you fancy a healthy breakfast you might try here: as well as coffee, they do excellent fresh juices and smoothies. In the evening, this is a good place to get the night off to a good start with one of their range of cocktails. QOpen 08:30 - 02:00. JBW

GradsKavana D-3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 02 / press 2, [email protected], www.mea-culpa.hr. A kavana is a Austro-Hungarian style coffee house, and the wonderful thing about this one, apart from the fine architecture and location, is that it’s been given delightful modern touches and offers a selection of fantastic cakes. Try the cake made with macaroni and walnuts. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PJAGB

Laura L-2, Frana Supila 1, tel. (+385-) 099 506 22 60, [email protected]. Easily overlooked, but shouldn’t be - the view over the walled city from the terrace just above the Ploče gate is phenomenal, and inside great music (commercial dance and local rock) plus fine local travarica (herb brandy) rule the roost. Turns into a night bar weekends during high season. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00. PBX

Living Room I-2, Ante Starčevića 7, tel. (+385-20) 31 22 03/(+385-) 091 567 26 32. A café/bar that is comfortable and relaxing, it’s great for that casual chat amongst friends in a setting that is neat, casual and well known for its fine coffee. Q June - September 15 Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. September 16 - October 31 Open 07:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 20:00 - 02:00. PNGBXW

Porto Put Bruna Bušića 6, Mlini, tel. (+385-) 098 23 32 34. It’s a hop out of town in the village of Srebreno (you can get there on the bus heading for Cavtat), but this big, modern space which serves as a chillout zone by day and a lively bar with dancing by night has proved to be very popular with local trendseters at weekends. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PGBX

Špilja Bar More (Cave Bar More) F-2, Kardinala Stepinca 33 (Hotel More), tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, [email protected], www.hotel-more.hr. This natural cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a little help from the human hand, been transformed into a delightfully relaxing bar. No music is played here: your thoughts and conversations are accompanied only by the sound of the sea. Enjoy a cocktail and give rein to your imagination! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.

Talir C-2, Antuninska bb. A classy spot to sup your coffee amidst antique style furnishings and artwork. If that’s not enough to satisfy your aesthetic as well as caffeine cravings, you can pop into the gallery opposite afterwards. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PB

www.inyourpocket.comŠpilja bar More (Cave bar More)


CAFÉS


35NIGHTLIFE


BarsArsenal D-3, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 65 (+385-) 098 983 08 31, [email protected], www.mea-culpa.hr. This huge space is a former repair workshop for wooden galleys. Plonk yourself at one of the pirate-sized wooden tables and chow down on great seafood (served by midnight), have a drink or three, take in a live band and indulge in a spot of shimmying on the dancefloor - in any order or combination. Spectacular. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00. PAB

Art K-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 25, [email protected]. Unremarkable at first glance, step inside and you’ll discover a shabby-chic haven, with couches made from old-fashioned bathtubs and tables from re-“cycled” (ha ha) washing machine drums. Cocktails, creativi ty and smoothies all in one small but perfect package. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. B

Buža D-4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s tower, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 53/(+385-) 098 36 19 34. What a place to sit - rocky terraces overlooking the open sea south of the Old Town. There’s no running water here so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything.

Q June - September 30 Open 08:30 - 03:00. October Open according to weather conditions. B

Capitano K-3, Između vrta 2, tel. (+385-) 098 36 64 70. This bar is usually empty before the witching hour, after which it transforms into a scene of drinking, dancing and shenanigans which go on ‘til the wee small hours. Commercial dance, occasional live bands and hormone-fuelled youth dressed to kill. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. PB

Mirage C-3, Bunićeva poljana 3. On a fine square near the Cathedral, this café slash bar has great outside seating to rival Troubadour’s. The inside isn’t bad either (not that you’ll need it, we hope) and beer and cocktails are well priced. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PNBXW

None Nina D-3, Pred Dvorom 4, tel. (+385-) 098 915 99 09, [email protected], www.nonenina.com. A perfect spot for people-watching on comfy loungers right opposite the Rector’s Palace - you can see people climbing about on the city walls. This place does coffees by day and shakes the cocktails by night. The toilets are designed for the fairy people. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PENB

Rock Caffe Exit C-2, Boškovićeva 2. Bar on the first floor of a small building, just off the Stradun, not visible but audible from the outside. It has very good acoustics and friendly staff. Has one computer which is free to use. Altogether a good atmosphere to start the night out. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PENXW

SkyBar C-3, Marojice Kaboge 1, tel. (+385-) 091 220 20 94, [email protected]. Administering a much-needed dose of urban eating and drinking culture to the Old Town, this newly opened café-cum-diner and lounge bar has settled quickly into its own niche. Expect to find both local beer and Erdinger on tap, a mind-boggling array of spirits, and an attractively-priced list of cocktails. There’s an excellent choice of upscale pub fodder in the shape of salads, burgers and steaks. Blending slate grey, soothing whi tes and mood-enhancing purples, th e in terior i s smar t an d s l ink y without being overdone. If the delightfully dotty abstract mosaic on the back wall starts revolving in front of your eyes, though, i t’s probabl y time you were in bed. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PAEBW

BoatsKaraka D-2, Old City Harbour, tel. (+385-) 091 660 00 05/(+385-) 091 358 18 88, [email protected], www.karaka.info. Moored in the Old City Harbour, this beautiful replica of a traditional Dubrovnik merchant ship of the 16th century functions as a bar and restaurant when it’s not carrying lucky folks on sailing tours of the islands. Q June 15 - September 5 Open 19:30 - 22:00. A

Culture Club Revelin

Eugen Miljan


36 NIGHTLIFE


CasinosGolden Sun Casino H/I-3, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Hotel Rixos Libertas), tel. (+385-20) 63 85 88, [email protected], www.goldensuncasino.hr. Feeling lucky? Then visit Golden Sun Casino in Five Star Rixos Libertas Hotel. It offers fun winning opportunities to suit all pockets, from the newest slot machines, roulette, and card tables, to Texas Holdem Poker Tournaments & cash games held every night from 8 ‘til late. Kick up your heels with fresh beverages and lounge bar music. The Casino’s free shuttle bus will pick you up and take you home in comfort. Everyone’s a winner at Golden Sun Casino! QOpen 14:00 - 04:00.

ClubsCulture Club Revelin D-2, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Revelin), tel. (+385-) 098 946 89 61/(+385-) 091 250 25 88, [email protected], www.clubrevelin.com. Back in the day, the 16th century Revelin Fortress used to protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often jam-packed with punters dancing to local and international music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh air and its seaside views. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. A

Eastwest beach club L-5, Frana Supila 4, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20, [email protected], www.ew-dubrovnik.com. The Banje beach at Ploče is where posers come to perfect their tans, since East West rents out funky loungers and screens to protect one’s privacy from the hoi polloi. This bar churns out cocktails and keeps ‘em dancing ‘til The Man says go home. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. PAB


Antun Tony Zupanac, Chui


37NIGHTLIFE


Fuego A-2, Brsalje 8, tel. (+385-20) 31 28 70, [email protected], www.dubrovniknightclub.com. A proper little club on Pile. As the name suggests, you’ll often find a Latin theme down here, but other nights mainstream rock, dance, the odd live band… And on hot summer nights when you’re full of cocktails and joie de vivre, who really cares? QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. PNB

Lazareti L-2, Frana Supila 8, [email protected], www.arl.hr. These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house are given over to happenings of an arty/underground nature, including quali ty DJs spinning electronica. An international multimedia festival is held here, which includes independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00.

Orlando J-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 41, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 74/(+385-) 098 192 77 60, [email protected]. A multi-talented organisation organising excellent live bands, DJ appearances, film screenings, workshops, exhibitions and much much more, leaning towards the alternative stream of culture. Check out the club’s Fecebook page for what’s on. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun.

Lounge barsCulto I-4, Iva Vojnovića 39a. Escape the scorching summer heat and cool off at Culto! What makes this bar unique is its exquisitely decorated interior and good atmosphere. Definitely worth a visit, it has a vibe and attracts a bubbly crowd. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PABX

Victoria L-2, Frana Supila 14 (Grand Villa Argentina), tel. (+385-20) 44 05 55, www.victoria-restaurant.com. Oozes class, classical architecture, quality service and contemporary ambience. Above all, the European menu

concept changes with the seasons and focuses on local delights, organic products and fresh ingredients. With a majestic view that overlooks the Old City and a wine list that tingles the pallet, a gastronomic experience of elegance and panache waits. Q Open 18:00 - 01:00 and depending on weather conditions. AEK

PubsArch Pub C-4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 30 69 90, [email protected], www.dubrovnikpub.com. As the name says, it is housed under the arch behind the Cathedral. One of the rare places playing music other than house and mainstream. This fact and the successful combination of stone and dark wood make you want to stay and just keep ordering those Irish beers they keep. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PJENBXWGaffe Pub C-3, Miha Pracata 4. The distinctive aroma, the big wooden bar and the wall decorations all announce one thing: this is an Irish pub. There are three big screens where you can watch football, rugby and cricket: a list to the left of the entrance door lets you know what’s on. Apart from Guinness, Kilkenny and Irish coffee, there’s a great selection of breakfasts served from 9:00 to 11:30 in summer. Out of season, you can pick up a light lunch here from 10:00 to 15:00. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. JBKatie O’Connor’s Irish Pub C-2, Dropčeva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 75/(+385-) 091 220 20 94, [email protected]. Brand new in 2006 but managing to look centuries old, this delightful stone cellar in one of the streets leading north of Stradun is a decent spot to drink. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PABX



WHAT TO SEE38


Dubrovnik justifiably invites hyperbole - every corner in the Old Town, in its entirey a UNESCO World Heritage site, has spellbinding charm and tells many a story. Although the city dates back to the 7th century, many buildings were devastated in a terrible earthquake in 1667, and were rebuilt resulting in the rather harmonious style you see today. The architects of Dubrovnik included the best of the Croatian masters, including Juraj Dalmatinac (also responsible for the cathedral at Šibenik and the entire town of Pag) in combination with masters from Venice, Dubrovnik’s main rival and trading partner. Architectural beauty is perhaps a cause of a deep immersion in the arts that manifests itself in galleries and festivals.

Essential DubrovnikDominican Monastery (Dominikanski samostan) D-2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 23. The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th century, and with the building of their monastery a century later, they became an important part of the city’s defences - the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone steps lead up to the complex - notice that the balustrades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (1456-1469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture. The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30, 11:00 and 18:00. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 20kn.Lokrum Island L-3, tel. (+385-20) 42 72 42, www.lokrum.hr. You don’t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim. The island’s shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake which is perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the

east of the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph buil t a summer house and formal gardens here, and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 - Lokrum is now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you have great views. Q Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes depending on the season, the amount of visitors and weather therefore we suggest you contact the office for further information. A return ticket costs 50kuna.Stradun, Placa B/C-2. When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by Greco-Roman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel - this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began to build the city walls.The Church of St Blaise (Crkva sv. Vlaha) D-3, Luža 3. Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are the setting for some of the most important events of the life of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of the

Slaven Tolj, Art Gallery Dubrovnik Archives 2006. – 2008.


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40 WHAT TO SEE


notations and a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is to stand on it facing the wall - it’s the test of a real man! Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 15 - 30kn.The Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor) D-3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97. One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining him to these quarters which he could only leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations were added in baroque style in the 17th century following the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts. The palace is now a museum where you can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the period are all on display. Q Admission 25 - 70kn.

MuseumsBukovac House (Kuća Bukovac) Bukovčeva 5, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 86 46, [email protected], www.kuca-bukovac.hr. See works by Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922), one of the most famous modern Croatian painters, in the setting of his charming Cavtat home. Part of the house is devoted to exhibitions of works by young artists, offering an invigorating counterpoint. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20kn.

Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00. No admission.The City Walls, Bastions and Pile & Ploče Gates (Gradske zidine, tvrđave, gradska vrata Pile, Vrata od Ploča), www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls are among the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries. The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows their primary purpose as defence against attack from the mountainous hinterland - the Ottoman Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached - the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition that they would respect its independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional performances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city. Q June - July 31 Open 08:00 - 19:30. August - September 15 Open 08:00 - 19:00. September 16 - October 31 Open 08:00 - 18:00. Admission 30 - 70kn.The Franciscan Monastery of the Friars Minor and the Old Pharmacy (Franjevački samostan i stara apoteka Male braće) B-2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, [email protected], www.malabraca.hr. The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working. The monastery houses a museum where you can see original items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical Dubrovnik Natural History Museum


41WHAT TO SEE


Dubrovnik Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni muzej) C-4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88. Although newly opened, the collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio (Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too, and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions which currently include photography by the Croatian Biospeliological Sociaty of the cave life of the Dubrovnik region. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission freeEthnographic Museum Rupe (Etnografski muzej Rupe) B-3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13. “Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Admission 25 - 70kn.Maritime Museum (Pomorski muzej) E-4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04. Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most important museums. The display of models of the fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy tales - they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 25 - 70kn.Modern History Museum (Muzej suvremene povijesti) B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 56. The Museum’s work focuses on gathering documentation on contemporary history since World War Two, including memoirs and photography. From time to time you can see all their exhibitions in the Rector’s Palace. The museum doesn’t have a permanent display but occasional exhibitions.The Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 41, [email protected]. The Archeological museum currently does not have a permanent residence, and some of its collections are still under preparation, but you can see objects dating back to prehistoric times excavated from the Old Town, including fragments of early Romanesque churches featuring the attractive plaitwork typical of Dalmatia. A prehistoric ceramic pot and female bust were found on the Pelješac peninsula. The museum doesn’t have a permanent display but occasional exhibitions.The Birthplace of Marin Držić (Dom Marina Držića) B-3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.muzej-marindrzic.eu. This picturesque gothic town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. QOpen 09:00 - 20:30. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

The Synagogue and Jewish Museum (Sinagoga i židovski muzej) D-2, Žudioska 5. The Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which could be reached from within the surrounding houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The community flourished and included respected doctors, merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions on their activities at certain points in history. The Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 20kn.

ChurchesDubrovnik’s citizens have often had cause to ask for help over the ages, and have never forgotten to say thank you. That’s why they engaged in building so many churches. Here are just a few of the main ones in the Old Town.Church and Convent of Sigurata & Museum of Sigurata Convent (Samostan i muzej Sigurata) B-2, Od Sigurate 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 67. To find this pink little baroque confection, you have to enter what looks like someone’s garden off an intimate side street. There was probably a church on this spot well before its first mention in the 12th century. Franciscan nuns established their convent here in the 13th century, and the adjoining museum contains household objects they used in order to support their order (e.g. needlework), as well as liturgical utensils and artworks, including two wax dolls of the baby Jesus (Bambino). At one time, every Dubrovnik household had such a doll, which was especially venerated at Christmas time. Q June, September Open on request and by prior arrangement. July - August 31 Open 10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Those wishing to visi t the Rector’s Palace, the Ethnographic Mueseum, the Maritime Museum or the Revelin Fortress must now buy a ticket for 70 kn (adults), or 40 kn (children), which enables you to visit all four museums over a 7-day period.

One Ticket, Four Museums



43WHAT TO SEE



44 WHAT TO SEE


Church of St Saviour (Crkva sv. Spasa) B-2, Placa bb. The first church you’ll see on entering the Old City from the Pile gate is St Saviour’s, with its typical Dalmatian rosette window on the front. It was built around 1520 by grateful citizens who were delivered from a terrible earthquake - it is said that even the city’s aristocratic ladies helped with carrying wood and stone. It’s often used as a venue for concerts and recitals.Rozario Church and Confraternity (Crkva i bratovština Rozario) D-2, Zlatarska. Opposite the Dominican monastery is a further building which once formed part of the complex, and includes the diminutive Rosary church - nowadays used as an occasional gallery space. The building dates back to 1594 and is built in mannerist and baroque styles.Serbian Orthodox Church and Museum of Icons (Pravoslavna crkva i Muzej ikona) C-3, Od Puča 8, tel. (+385- 20) 32 32 83. Dubrovnik’s Orthodox church was built from 1865 - 1877, and stands behind impressive wrought iron gates. It houses a number of icons, mainly Byzantine and Cretan, but those looking for a more extensive collection should head for the museum on the second floor of the building next door. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 21:00. Church Admission free.

St Ignatius’ Church (Crkva sv. Ignacija) C-4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 00. Part of a fine complex on an elevated square close to the southern edge of the Old Town, the wonderfully ornate Jesuit church of St Ignatius is approached via a romantic baroque staircase which is modelled on the Spanish Steps in Rome (1738). The church itself was built between 1667 and 1725 by architect Ignazzio Pozzo, and like most Jesuit churches of the period was modelled on the Gesù in Rome, the mother church of the Jesuits. Both the stairway and the square in front of the church are used as venues at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Despite the somewhat run-down appearance of the adjoining college, an esteemed place of education, this is a particularly atmospheric spot in one of the oldest parts of the city. Mass in English In June, July and August mass is held in English every day at 12:00.QOpen 06:30 - 20:00.St Katherine’s Convent (Samostan sv. Katarine) C-3, Strossmayerova 3. The graceful building which now houses the acclaimed Art School, in one of the oldest parts of town south of Stradun, is the former convent of St Katherine.St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) D-2, Zlatarska. This little church at the Ploče end of Prijeko was originally built in simple, pre-romanesque style typical for early Middle Ages Dalmatia; a late renaissance frontage was added in 1607. Inside, you can see stone ornaments in an interlocking style reminiscent of Celtic knotwork called pleter, which is typical of early Croatian churches, plus a fine painting of the Madonna dating back to the 13th century.St Sebastian’s Church (Crkva sv. Sebastijana) D-2, Sv. Dominika. This 15th century church was built by the Ploče gate, for a good reason: St Sebastian is the saint protector against plague. It lies under the protective wing of the Dominican monastery, in a pretty corner by the stone steps and balustrade.

E-3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 78. Housed in the magnificent St John’s fortress (Sveti Ivan), the Aquarium gives you the chance to get to know the sea life of the Adriatic without having to eat it. Children will love it; animal rights activists may be less than impressed. Q June, September Open 09:00 - 20:00. July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 15 - 40kn.

The Aquarium (Akvarij)


45WHAT TO SEE


L-2, Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 53 93, [email protected], www.dubrovnikcablecar.com. Travel in style to the peak of Mount Srđ in the recently opened cable car. The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, a panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir Street (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be bought, also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount Srđ, or in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates where you can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other places (e.g. travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets are payable in euro. Q June - August 31Open 09:00 - 24:00. September - October 31 Open 09:00 - 20:00. Adults 50 - 87kn, Children 25 - 40kn, children under 4 free.

Dubrovnik Cable Car

The Cathedral (Katedrala) D-3/4, Držićeva poljana, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 59 Treasury/(+385-20) 32 34 96. The elegant pale grey Cathedral at rosy sundown exemplifies the frequently quoted phrase “city of stone and light” (Jure Kaštelan). Its dome gracefully tops the skyline whichever way you look at it, and its baroque forms are one more chapter of the fairytale of the city streets. It was thought that the Cathedral, built between 1672 and 1713 by Italian architects Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti, was built on the site of an earlier 12th century Romanesque cathedral, destroyed in the great earthquake of 1667. However, following another earthquake in 1979, excavations showed that there had, in fact, been a Byzantine cathedral on this spot since the 7th or 8th centuries. The light and lofty interior is most famous for its collection of treasures, which includes reliquaries of St Blaise. The golden caskets containing the saint’s head and foot are thought to be the work of Byzantine masters of the 11th century. By the main altar is a painting of the Assumption by Titian which features a self-portrait of the artist. Mass: 07:30 and 18:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00, 18:00. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:30 - 17:00. Treasury admission 10 - 15kn.

LandmarksĐur ov ića Cave - Skycellar Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi. So your plane lands and minutes later you find yoursel f in a cave! Yes, i t i s true! Just beneath the Dubrovnik Airport, there is a cave that stretches

200 meters in length and is a fast growing attraction. Audio guides in English, Russian and Croatian will take you through this adventure where Mother Nature has for centuries been working her magic. As a memento of your visit, the aptly named Skycellar offers a vast range of authentic wines from this region as well as genuine souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 15 - 40kn.Gundulić Square (Gundulićeva poljana) C/D-3. This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing in the centre - one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to him was erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems were hymns to his home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants and homes is the Old Town’s fruit market in the mornings.


46 WHAT TO SEE


the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built in rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates and a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state, Venice. During the city’s golden age in the 16th century, the merchant navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good meal.The Lazaret (Lazareti) L-5. Just past the Ploče gates is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers in times of plague. Since these buildings were usually destroyed when the need for them passed, Dubrovnik’s lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe. The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists’ workshops and a humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for concerts and DJ parties.Visia Dubrovnik 5D Multimedia Museum B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4 (St Clara Convent, Stradun), [email protected], www.visiadubrovnik.com. The ancient walls of St. Clara’s Convent are new home to a state of the art 5D multimedia museum. With the use of virtual reality and hologram projections, visitors are taken through an incredible journey into the history and culture of Dubrovnik and Croatia. Offered in six languages, experience the trials and tribulations of this grand city. Whilst there, see the World Network Concept, a fun way of spreading peace virtual style! QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Tickets 50 - 75kn. U

Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik, it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions. The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a virtual museum.The exhibit Sculptures from the Middle Ages is linked to the material stone, for stone is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furniture in churches was made from stone and this exhibit presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and imposts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine order in Dubrovnik and it’s surroundings; they date from the 8th and 12th century. The second exhibit Archaeological research and foundry workers present how the very building you are standing in, was built. Visuals depict its 15th and 16th century construction as well as findings such as ovens for casting cannons and bells, and the houses of different stone masons and foundry men. Any public-construction in the city at the time was put on halt to accelerate the building of the fortress due to potential Venetian danger. Ascend one floor and enter the new age, a Virtual Museum with seven huge touch screens allowing visitors to see archived documents, walk through summer residences and parks, set eyes on the Cathedral, flip old coins of the Dubrovnik Republic, visit Ston and the ancient fortresses and holiday villas in the region. Some of these are mostly inaccessible to the public and are an extremely important part of Dubrovnik’s heritage. Q Admission to all the exhibits aforementioned costs 25 - 70kn.

Revelin FortressOnofrio’s Fountains - Great and Small (Velika i mala Onofrijeva fontana) B-2, D-3, Poljana Paska Miličevića, Pred Dvorom. One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers. The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s Croatia. Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio’s small fountain is an elegant little masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near the tower at the other end of Stradun.Orlando’s Column (Orlandov stup) D-2, Pred Dvorom. In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic. Today you’ll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing the city’s enduring spirit of independence. This spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still is the political ‘heart’ of the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and to witness punishments. Orlando’s right forearm was used as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for trading fabric - a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) - you can see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom of the sculpture.The City Belltower (Gradski zvonik, Luža zvonara) D-3, Pred Dvorom. Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their green color is a result of their copper composition rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci - ‘the green ones’ - or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The bell is the only original part of the tower - an older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island. The tower’s clock with its sunburst centrepoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.The City Hall and Marin Držić Theatre (Vijećnica i kazalište Marina Držića) D-3, Pred Dvorom 1. South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it’s a place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise’s Church. Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades - it’s a fine sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians gathered there on a warm evening.The City Harbour (Gradska luka) D/E-2/3. Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the security offered by the island which lay where the southern half of the Old Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the land with Mount Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural resting point on the maritime trade routes that existed even before the Roman Empire. After the Slavs settled here and began fortifying


47DIVING IN THE ADRIATIC


People have always been curious to discover the secrets concealed by the sea. We know that the ancient Greeks mastered the techniques diving for sponges and sea snails. But the seabed is still very much uncharted territory, and many people believe that the seas and the oceans conceal the greatest mysteries of the planet.On the Adriatic, diving has a history as long as mankind’s dependence on the sea for its livelihood. We know, for example, that towards the end of the 19th century people from the island of Krapanj were using supple jackets when diving for sponges. However, it was two brothers from Slovenia named Ivan and Dušan Kuščer who popularised diving as a recreational pastime. They published photographs and writings documenting their underwater adventures in the 1930s, when they explored the northern Croatian coast using diving equipment they had made themselves.Why is it that people are so fascinated by diving? And what’s all the fuss about the Adriatic Sea? At first glance, the Adriatic may not look particularly colourful or rich in sea life compared with most tropical waters, for example. But as legions of diving enthusiasts will confirm, the waters of the Adriatic definitely have their own wonders and offer plenty to explore.This is one of the cleanest seas in Europe with a combination of characteristics that make it a wonderful haven for divers. The Adriatic is shallow, warm and salty. The seabed is either rocky, pebbly or sandy, and the water is so transparent that in some places you can see for 60 metres. There are no strong tides to contend with. However, there are strong currents in places, mainly in channels where the water surges between islands, as well as on the fringes of the islands. Thanks to the forces of nature and of history there is a great deal to be discovered under the calm blue surface of the Adriatic. It is rich in flora and fauna, some of which is unique to these waters. The seabed is made up of impressive underwater rock faces and reefs and is dotted with shipwrecks, archaeological finds and even the odd aeroplane which has found its way down there. And this fascinating world extends right along the length of the Croatian coast.

The northern part of the Adriatic is the most visited by divers thanks to its shallow waters and lush vegetation. The coastline around the Istrian peninsula is the last resting place of a number of ancient vessels. The central and southern parts of the Adriatic have deeper and more transparent waters and spectacular underwater escarpments. Some of the most attractive locations here are around the islands of Vis and Hvar, the Kornati archipelago and in the Dubrovnik area.Apart from these locations, some of the most interesting – and dangerous – diving adventures are to be had in secret underwater caves. Among the most beautiful of these are: the Green Cave (Zelena špilja) on the island of Vis; the Blue Cave (Modra špilja) on the island of Biševo; the Bear Cave (Medvjeđa špilja) on Mali Lošinj, and Zaklopatica on the island of Korčula.Apart from exercising caution when diving in caves or other potentially hazardous locations, divers should be aware that diving is not allowed at the following places: harbours and moorings, areas with heavy boat traffic, military zones, nature reserves, nature parks, the Brijuni and Krka National Parks and the islands of Palagruža and Jabuka.

Padi 5 star dive resort Blue Planet, (Archives)

Padi 5 star dive resort Blue Planet, (Archives)


48 DIVING IN THE ADRIATIC


Diving is allowed at the Kornati and Mljet National Parks with a special permit. And you need prior permission from the Ministry of Culture if you want to dive from the following locations:The islands of Vis, Biševo, Svetac, Brusnik, Sušak, Lastovo and PalagružaAround (within 300m of) the following shipwrecks: the Szent Istvan, the Corida-nus, the BarenGautsch, the S-57The archaeological sites at Žirje and CavtatSo long as you have the right permit, you can dive as an individual or as part of a group.If you’d like to take part in an organized dive in Croatia, contact a registered diving instructor, school or association (see the list of diving centres at the end of this article). If you’re going out diving on your own, be sure to properly mark the spot where you dive with a surface marker buoy. Individual divers must get a permit, which costs 2400kn, from the local harbourmaster’s office. Sports scuba divers must not dive to depths greater than 40m.The Adriatic is not known for deadly sea creatures but there are certain species which can give you an unpleasant sting, so it is worth exercising caution. Do not try to feed or otherwise disturb sea creatures since otherwise docile characters may become aggressive if they perceive you as a threat. It goes without saying that each and every diver is responsible for protecting the fragile underwater environment. Your aim should be to leave no trace of your dive when you have finished. Whether you’re interested in diving to shipwrecks, caves or underwater rock faces, Croatia is a great destination for diving. And thanks to modern diving equipment and techniques, children as young as 10 years old can dive quite safely, as can disabled divers. Just be sure before every dive to check the rules for safe diving in that location, to avoid putting your life – or anyone else’s – in danger. And of course, before you begin, you’ll have taken your certificate so you know exactly what you’re doing! We wish you calm seas and a wealth of exciting dives!

Abyss - Diving & Water-sport Centre G-2, Iva Dulčića 35 (Hotel Dubrovnik President beach), tel. (+385-) 098 24 43 49/(+385-) 099 256 12 56, [email protected], www.dubrovnikdiving.com. Q Open 09:30 - 18:00 and by appointment.Padi 5 star dive resort Blue Planet F-3, Masarykov put 20 (Hotel Dubrovnik Palace), tel. (+385-) 091 899 09 73, [email protected], www.blueplanet-diving.com.Q Open 09:00 - 17:00.Epidaurum Šetalište Žal 31, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 13 86, [email protected], www.epidaurum.com. Q Open 09:30 - 18:30.Diving Club Dubrovnik G/H-1, Solitudo Bay, tel. (+385-20) 43 57 37/(+385-) 098 42 79 63, [email protected], www.du-diver.hr. On Babin Kuk facing the Gruž harbour. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Dive centres


DIVING IN THE ADRIATIC 49SPORT


Dubrovnk is far from being just a walk-round museum of cultural treasures and churches. It also stands in the middle of a spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and is ideally suited to an active holiday of paddling, peddling and generally pottering around. The easiest way to stretch your legs is to embark on a mission to conquer Mount Srđ, the stark 412m-high summit that watches over Dubrovnik to the north. Otherwise catch a ferry to an offshore island such as Lopud, Šipan or Mljet, where numerous walking trails forge through untouched Mediterranean landscapes.Most popular of the organized activities in the Dubrovnik region is sea kayaking, with several local agencies offering half- or full-day paddles focusing on the nearby islands of Lokrum, Koločep and Lopud. Cycling is beginning to take off in the Konavle, the beautifully rustic coastal strip that runs southeast from Dubrovnik to the Montenegrin border. The Cavtat tourist office publishes a series of free mountain biking maps to the region, and guided bike tours can be booked at travel agents in both Dubrovnik and Cavtat.With the chance to go scuba diving or sailing in coastal waters near Dubrovnik or Mljet, or try out free climbing or horse riding in the Konavle, there’s no shortage of variety. If you fancy quad-bike safaris or paint-balling, check out what’s on offer at the Prevlaka Nature Park or the Kojan Koral (see listings below).

Adventure & TravelATV Quad Safari Popovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-) 098 60 69 29, [email protected], www.kojankoral.hr. Vroom! Vroom! Pick up your helmet, get behind the wheel and prepare yourself for some major dirt filled action. Four wheeler (All Terrain Vehicles) are the form of transport as you cross rivers and drive across different terrain along the Konavle mainland. You are picked up at your place of stay and taken to the Kojan Konavle Koral Estate, there you are instructed on procedures and then the true adventure begins! Intended for groups of 7 - 14 people and it is 500 - 600kuna per person. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement.

Step back in time as you paddle in traditional Neretva vessels along the Delta of the Neretva River. You will pass through areas where the ancient Greeks, Illyrians and Romans used to sail, not to mention the pirates of this region that were known to attack their enemies from such positions. Dig in to the traditional gastronomic specialties including ‘Neretva Brudet’, a type of stew made from frog and eels. When back on the mainland, you can visit the Ornithological Collection in Metković and the archeological site of the ancient Narona. For more information, please contact: Restaurant Lopoč, tel. (+385-20) 69 30 34, www.restaurant-lopoc.com; Restaurant Adria, tel. (+385-) 099 388 99 99; Konoba Narona, tel. (+385-) 098 32 37 49.

Excursions on the Neretva boats

ClimbingPrevlaka Nature Park Prevlaka, tel. (+385-20) 79 15 55/(+385-) 098 26 14 66, www.park-prevlaka.hr. This park offers loads for active souls - choose between biking, canoing or wandering the tunnels. If you’re hungry you can have a bite at their Konoba, and if you’re hot take a dip in the clean sea. Entry 15kn. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Horse ridingKojan koral Popovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-) 098 60 69 29, [email protected], www.kojankoral.hr. Even a total beginner can enjoy a two hour ride in the Konavle countryside: helmets, insurance and moron-proof instructions are provided. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement.

Sea kayakingAdriatic Kayak tours K-4, Zrinsko Frankopanska 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 27 70/(+385-) 091 722 04 13, [email protected], www.adriatickayaktours.com. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. A


50 SPORT


Local fishing

Big game fishing

Night fishingNight Night

Includes all the latest shing

equipment, rods and reels,

as well as fresh and live bait

Local fishingLocal fishingLLLLBBNNNNl

he best fishinJoin us for the best fishing JJoooiiinnn uusss fffoorrr gg

experienceon the Adriaticexperienceon the Adriatic

CALL +385 (0)91 419 1450

Adventure Dalmatia Pile bay, tel. (+385-) 091 566 59 42/(+385-) 091 526 38 13, [email protected], www.adventuredalmatia.com. Sea kayaking around Dubrovnik, free climbing in the Konavle. More information on 091 566 59 42 and 091 526 38 13. Q April - October Open 08:00 - 22:00.LaurAdventure K-4, Istarska 3, tel. (+385-) 091 930 92 60/(+385-) 091 530 25 12, [email protected], www.laura-adventure.com. Sea kayaking, free climbing, trekking. For info call the mobiles above. Q Working hours by appointment.

TennisBabin Kuk tennis centre F/G-3, Iva Dulčića bb, tel. (+385-20) 44 76 27. You should call for an appointment to check when there is a free court, 40kn per hour. Q Open 07:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00.Dubrovnik tennis club H-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira bb, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 55, [email protected]. You need to call for an appointment a day earlier. 80kn/hr during the day, after the lights are on you’ll pay 100kn. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.

03.08 Friday - 05.08 SundaySouth Dalmatian Regatta Orebić - Dubrovnik.

18.08 SaturdaySailing regatta - The Elaphite Islands Cup Koločep Channel.

01.09 SaturdayMusical Regatta Koločep Channel.

15.09 SaturdaySailing regatta - Gradelana Koločep Channel.

Sport events

29.06 Friday - 07.07 SaturdayTr e k k i n g & P h o t o g r a p h y Ko rču l a , i n f o @robertmarnika.com. After last year’s success in Zadar, this event moves to Korčula. It’s a double whammy with workshops on digital photography combined with trekking. So get your boots on and load up your camera with some great snapshots ready to be taken.

Workshops


51SPORT


For those seeking more of an active holiday and are keen on seeing more than the city itself, why not choose from the 60km of cycling roads and tracks that are available throughout the Konavle area. Bicycles can be hired at tourist agencies (look in our Getting Around section) where you can also get detailed instructions and road maps. In case you are already near Konavle itself, contact the Konavle Tourist Association for more information. Theme routes: Cavtat-Močići-Čilipi (starting point Cavtat - Bus Station)/Cavtat-Zvekovica-Miljasi (starting point Cavtat - Bus Station)/Čilipi-Gruda-Ljuta-Pridvorje (starting point Čilipi - Main square).

Cycling

In Dubrovnik, the first walk you have to take is around the city walls, but that’s for babies, only two kilometres. After that, a favourite walk is around the Lapad peninsula, or to the top of one of its highest points, Velika or Mala Petka. Very much more demanding is a walk up Mount Srđ (412m) – a two hour climb, but with the prospect of the city laid out at your feet as your reward. Konavle has some good walking routes taking in villages, peaks, remains and coastal vistas: pop into the tourist office in Cavtat for a map.

Get a taste of the fresh outdoors on foot! Visitors who prefer walking can investigate Konavle by strolling down the nicely decorated pathways which lead you to unique beaches along the Konavle rocks known only to locals. For more information, contact the Konavle Tourist Association. Paths: Cavtat-Močići-Čilipi/Čilipi-Radovčići/The “Ronald Brown” Path.

Take a hike!


52 MAIL & PHONES


PostIf all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps in pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where.Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box.These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.Central Post Office I-2, Vukovarska 16, tel. (+385-20) 36 20 68.QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.Lapad G-2, Miljenka Bratoša 21, tel. (+385-20) 36 28 40.Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. June - August 31 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.Pile J-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 2, tel. (+385-20) 41 12 65.Q Open 08:30 - 15:00, Mon 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Stari grad B-2, Široka 8, tel. (+385-20) 36 28 42.Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. June - August 31 Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

Express mailCity Ex I-2, Vukovarska 34, tel. (+385-20) 31 18 00/(+385-) 0800 303 333, [email protected], www.cityex.hr.QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. NDHL L-2, Frana Supila 12 (Hotel Excelsior), tel. (+385-1) 665 11 11, www.dhl.hr.QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Public telephoneYou can purchase phone cards (telefonska kartica) at any kiosk - they come in 15-100 units and cost 15, 30, 50 and 100kn respectively. You can also buy pre-paid phone cards which give you substantial discounts when calling abroad.

Internet placesHugo 1 B-2, Prijeko 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 69/(+385-) 091 211 11 66. Internet, playstation and PC games, burning photos, scanning and printing. Ring home for cheap too! (7kn/15min, half an hour 10kn and 20kn/1h.) QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.

Netcafe C-2, Prijeko 21, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 25, [email protected], www.netcafe.hr. A sweet and bright little café in the Old Town. 10kn/15min surfing, plus print, copy, scan, fax, burn, connect your laptop. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00. July - September Open 09:00 - 01:00. PNB

Snoopy I-2, Bana Jelačića 33, tel. (+385-20) 31 22 74, [email protected]. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00. 30kn / hour.

You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code break-down, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or seven-digit number, and place the receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (020 if you’re calling Dubrovnik for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dail your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

Making the call

Letters up to 50gr Croatia 3.10kn, Abroad 7.10kn

Postcards (standard) Croatia 1.60kn, Abroad 3.10kn

Postal rates

Mobile phone use in Dubrovnik is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine.

SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you.T-Centar I-2, Starčevićeva 47, tel. (+385-) 0800 1550, www.t-mobile.hr.QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.Tele 2 Centar H/I-2, Nikole Tesle 2 (TC Minčeta), tel. (+385-20) 35 65 89, www.tele2.hr.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.Vip Centar L-2, Frana Supila 5, tel. (+385-) 091 77 00, www.vipnet.hr.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Mobile phones

Zagreb 01Split 021Šibenik 022Zadar 023 Rijeka 051

City codes


MAIL & PHONES 53GETTING AROUND


TrainAmazing but true, the railway system does not serve Dubrovnik. Inter-railers may consider the Zagreb-Ploče train, travelling via Bosnia and Herzegovina and visiting towns such as Banja Luka, Mostar and Sarajevo. Normal people would probably prefer to avoid this 13-hour odyssey and travel to Split, then continue south by coach, especially since the Zagreb-Split fast train now takes less than six hours, or you can take the sleeper.Drivers can rest up and escape tourist traffic by loading their car on a night train at 23:20 (186.30kn - 266.30kn, plus the price of a passenger ticket) travelling to Split and then continuing south. However, since the Zagreb-Split motorway has reduced journey times to about 5 hours (traffic permitting), many people choose to drive or take the coach. A final touring option is the Ploče-Sarajevo-Osijek-Budapest route, which takes the best part of 17 hours.

Long distance coachesSince there’s no train station in Dubrovnik, the long distance coach has long been the best way to travel to cities in Croatia and abroad. There are frequent services to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croatia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a 14 hour journey!Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor) H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 05:00 - 22:30.

The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!). You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are. They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website (sorry, no English) or any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12kn from news kiosks (15kn from the driver) and must be cancelled in the ticket-stamping machines immediately on boarding. Out-of-town routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 20kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver. www.libertasdubrovnik.hr

Public transport

The easiest and simplest way to get a cab is to call 0800 09 70 otherwise you’ll find them on the following ranks: Pile, Main Coach Station, Gruž Harbour, Ploče, Lapad. No night supplements, 25kn start, 8kn per kilometre, 2kn per baggage item and 80kn per hour for waiting.

Taxi

Road help tel. 1987


54 GETTING AROUND


Harbourmaster’s officeHarbourmaster’s office (Lučka kapetanija) I-2/3, Obala Stjepana Radića 37, tel. (+385-20) 41 89 88, www.mmtpr.hr. 24 hours Info: 41 89 89 QOpen 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Port authorityDubrovnik Port Authority H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 31 33 33, [email protected], www.portdubrovnik.hr. Q June - September 15 Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. September 16 - May 31 Open 08:00 - 16:00.Closed Sat, Sun.

Bike rentalTeuta Trumbićev put 3, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 97 86/(+385-) 091 882 57 97, [email protected], www.cavtat.biz. Q April - October 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00. November - May 31 Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. 25kn/hour, 100kn/day. A

FerryG&V Line G-1, Vukovarska 34, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, [email protected], www.gv-line.hr. Tickets can be bought in Gruž Harbour from the Jadrolinija kiosk at least one hour before departure. The kiosk closes one hour before the boat sails. Q 25 - 70kn per person.Jadrolinija I-2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00, www.jadrolinija.hr. Q June 2 - July Open 08:00 - 20:00, Mon, Wen, Fri 08:00 - 22:00. July 2 - 29 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Mon, Wen 08:00 - 22:00. July 30 - August 14 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 08:00 - 22:00. August 15 - 31 Open 08:00 - 22:00, Tue 08:00 - 20:00. September 1 - 30 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Mon, Wen, Fri 08:00 - 22:00. October Open 08:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 20:00, Mon, Wen, Fri 19:00 - 22:00. One way ticket is 23kn per person.Mediteranska plovidba Trg kralja Tomislava 2, Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 11 56. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to parking, and it’s not uncommon to see visitors driving around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free space. Your best bet is to head for the multi-storey car park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica bb, K-2), well-placed for people entering the city from the west. A bus shuttles passengers from the car park to the Old Town’s Pile Gate, although with Pile lying a mere ten minutes downhill on foot, you might not need it. Parking costs 5 - 30kn/hour or 85 - 360kn/day depending which zone you’re in and the season.Text message parking. Croatia was the first ever country to introduce payment by text message for street parking! It’s so simple. Look for the sign to see which zone you’re in. Send the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to the four digit number shown. Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them. Different zones have different max waiting times and prices.

Parking

Car rentalAdria rent G-3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 43 70 66/(+385-) 098 34 49 64, [email protected], www.adriarent.hr. You can also rent a scooter. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. AAvis - Budget H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1 (Port terminal), tel. (+385-20) 31 36 33/(+385-) 091 314 30 10, [email protected], www.avis.com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. ADollar&Thrifty Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 35 88/(+385-) 098 42 49 03, [email protected], www.carrentalsubrosa.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. AHertz L-2, Frana Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/(+385-) 091 425 00 01, [email protected], www.hertz.hr. Also at the airport 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel: (+385-20) 77 15 68, 091 / 425 11 11. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun 09:00 - 11:00. AUni rent Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 34 80/(+385-) 099 219 55 15, [email protected], www.uni-rent.com. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A

AirportDubrovnik Airport (Zračna luka Dubrovnik) Čilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 33 33/(+385-20) 77 32 22, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr. The advent of well priced tickets for domestic flights means that most people in Dubrovnik get around the country by plane. There are a limited number of tickets selling at rock bottom prices so be sure to reserve your ticket well in advance - otherwise you’ll need a whole lot of luck to get your hands on these. International flights are also becoming more affordable with the arrival of budget airlines such as Germanwings and Norwegian Air Shuttle. See the airline websites for reservations.Getting there: Catch a bus from the main coach station, tickets cost 35kn one way, or call a taxi (200 - 250kn). Check with your airline for the bus timetable. If you take your car there’s a long stay car park (the first 15min parking is free of charge, anything over 15min and up to 24hours will cost between 5 - 40kn. Parking beyond 24 hours thereafter is 2kuna per hour. In case you do lose your parking ticket, a 300kn payment is required).


Komolac Ogarići 8, tel. (+385-) 091 497 10 33, www.ina.hr. Free info phone 0800 11 12. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.Kupari Kupari bb, Mlini, tel. (+385-) 091 497 10 38, www.ina.hr. Free info phone 0800 11 12. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. AOpuzen Jadranska 6, tel. (+385-) 091 497 10 43, www.ina.hr. Free info phone 0800 11 12. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Gas stations 0-24


55GETTING AROUND


Towed awayIf you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot in Gospino polje (leads from Pile to Lapad). Most of the year it’s Open 24 hours and from December till February from 07:00 - 23:00. The bad news is you’ll be charged anything from 500 - 1000kn for the trouble, plus a police fine of up to 300 - 700kn. Let’s face it, it could be worse! The people there speak English and accept payment by credit card.Sanitat Dubrovnik, tel. (+385-20) 33 10 16, 42 88 58, [email protected], www.sanitatdubrovnik.hr

TransfersAvantgarde Service H-1, Sv. Križa 3, tel. (+385-20) 41 74 99/(+385-) 098 925 23 93, [email protected], www.dubrovnik-transferi.com. Transport at its best! Whether you are on a business trip, sightseeing, or wish to do a tour, Avantgarde Services will accommodate all your needs. Choose from high quality limousines, a VIP van for delegations or taxi services at competitive rates, they have it all. From a one off trip to assisting in corporate events, everything can be catered for. Have your own chauffeur at your very doorstep and with the utmost professional service! QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. N

Travel AgenciesAtlas A-2/K-3, Sv. Đurđa 1, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 84/(+385-) 0800 44 22 22, [email protected], www.atlas-croatia.com. One of the biggies - all kinds of trips in store. Fancy trying a canoe or jeep safari? Step this way... QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A

Dubrovnik Travel I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. (+385-20) 31 35 55, [email protected], www.dubrovniktravel.hr. Excursions and cruises can be yours! QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.Elite I-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 35 82 00, [email protected], www.elite.hr. Everything from horseriding to sailing in a fabulous 16th century galleon. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. AGulliver travel I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. (+385-20) 41 08 88, [email protected], www.gulliver.hr. Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers.Also at F-2, Babin Kuk, Mali Stradun, tel. 091 603 51 23, Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:30 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 12:00. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. APerla Adriatica L-2, Frana Supila 2, tel. (+385-20) 42 27 66/(+385-) 098 33 45 00, [email protected], www.perla-adriatica.com. By the Ploče gates, a good place to try if you’re looking for private accommodation. Also excursions, rental of bikes, scooters and boats, plus exchange services. Q June, September, October Open 09:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 24:00. NViator travel H-1, Svetog križa 3, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 40, 31 31 44/(+385-) 091 486 84 33, [email protected], www.dubrovnikviator.com. Visit their website to explore a world of possibilities, including organization of group travels, events and meetings in Dubrovnik. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun by appointment. AVivado Šetalište M.Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 64 71/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, [email protected], www.vivado.hr. An agency in Mlini organising fish picnics to the islands. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed October 15 - April.


56 SHOPPING


AntiquesAntiques Tezoro C-2, Između Polača 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 23. Take home a little reminder of renaissance Dubrovnik - jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware... Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. AHeritage Shop L-2, Petra Krešimira IV 7, tel. (+385-) 098 20 91 50. A small store exquisitely decorated in the spirit of the old Dubrovnik salon and inspired by rich local and Croatian culture. It has different goods to offer and you can choose from the wide range of art objects, antiquities and useful items dedicated to Croatian history, the ancient times right through to the present. Q June, October Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. July - September Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00. A

Art galleriesAR Atelier 2 C-2, Nalješkovićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 21/(+385-) 091 201 19 99, [email protected], www.antoniaruskovic.com. A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as items made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with Konavle embroidery. Q June, September, October Open 09:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 24:00. AArtur B-3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/(+385-) 098 28 53 98. A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian art. They also have art workshops during whole year so if you are interested you know what to do... Q June, September, October Open 09:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 24:00. AKlarisa Gallery C-2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-) 099 243 59 44, [email protected]. Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and located in the true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia, and in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great number of sculptures and jewelry as made by young Croatian fashion designers. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. ARomana atelier C-3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 522 98 98/(+385-) 091 501 33 18, [email protected], www.romana-milutin.com. Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 22:00. A

Stradun B-2, Placa 15, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 78, [email protected]. On Stradun (oddly enough), close to the Pile gate, this gallery is the result of the owner’s passion for art. Exclusively local and Croatian painters along with exquisite Croatian designer jewellery. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. ATalir B-2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 93, [email protected], www.talir-dubrovnik.hr. Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croatian artists for sale. Also at Antuninska 5 where there’s a nice café next door. QOpen 09:30 - 22:30. AWorkshop Be Craft L-2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 46, [email protected], www.becraft.eu. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Algoritam C-2, Placa 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 44, www.algoritam.hr. Books, magazines, newspapers, maps in many languages.QJune, September Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. ATisak kiosk B-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-) 099 706 13 26. Lots of newspapers and magazines in different languages.QJune, September Open 07:00 - 24:00. July, August Open 00:00 - 24:00

English books & newspapers

Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle. One of the perks of travelling is being able to buy duty free. The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the expected range of products you see at other similar stores, the exception here is the traditional Croatian products and gift packages which will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You won’t have to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first international flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the last designated flight.

Duty Free Shop

Tina Šepetavc


57SHOPPING


SHOPPING


58 SHOPPING


Karla cipele

SouvenirsBaboon I-2, Dr. Vladka Mačeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 17 50/(+385-) 098 85 72 79, [email protected]. Handmade jewellery, paper flowers and original gifts. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.Bačan Handmade Products D-2, Prijeko 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 21. Here you can go all out ‘folk’ with national costumes, blouses and table cloths all decorated with Konavle embroidery on sale. Q Open 9:30 - 15:30, 17:30 - 20:30, Sun 09:30 - 15:30. JN

Ivo Biočina - Decorative sculptors workshop D-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-) 091 536 40 56. A small sculptors workshop with fascinating statues, figures, holy crosses, bowls, Croatian cross patterns, the Dubrovnik coat of arms and more. See how this exceptional combination of stone from Brač is carved in Dubrovnik motifs. Truly original! Q Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Medusa B/C-2, Prijeko 18, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 04/(+385-) 098 175 17 41, [email protected], w w w.medusa.hr. Wide-ranging souvenir shop that stocks more than just the predictable tourist-trap nonsense that nobody actually wants. Expect a solid choice of authentic Croatian gifts including olive oils, brandies, and sponges from the sponge-fishing island of Krapanj. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A

Museum shop D-3, Pred dvorom 3 (Rector’s Palace), tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39. The Rector’s Palace is where guests can acquire some of the more sophisticated and more exclusive gifts and souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. APalma C-3, City Market, Gundulićeva poljana, tel. (+385-) 091 553 96 08/(+385-) 091 514 20 18. Unique ornaments made from palm wood, prices from 100kn. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.Ronchi D-3, Lučarica 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 99/(+385-) 098 82 04 16, [email protected], www.dubrovnik-online.com/ronchi. Need to wear a hat but don’t want to look like a chump? This is your place - a milliners established in 1858, still making superbly stylish hats using traditional methods. Q Open 09:30 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. ATilda D-2, Zlatarska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 54, www.tildadubrovnik.com. Original Konavle handicrafts: slippers, jewellery, greetings cards and more. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A

Save money when you buy souvenirs and other stuff to take back home. Look for the “Tax Free” label on shop win-dows, or ask at the counter. When you buy goods totalling 500kn or more, they’ll give you a form. Get it stamped when you leave the country, and you’re entitled to a tax

refund – follow the instructions on the form.

Tax free heaven

Ruža Hodak


59SHOPPING



60 SHOPPING


Waxing lyrical, tel. (+385-) 098 939 43 83, [email protected], www.vostanibrod.com. Looking for a souvenir for the pyromaniac maritime enthusiast in your life? How about a wax model of the Karaka (a type of historic wooden merchant ship made in Dubrovnik) which doubles as a fully functioning candle? All joking aside, these models are painstakingly made by Tonći Jonjić, who researches and creates models of historic Croatian boats. His wax Karaka won a prize for being among the best original souvenirs of the Dubrovnik region. If you’re eager to have it, go to the nearest tourist board or simplly call 098 939 43 83.

AccessoriesArt Go’Den G-2, Iva Dulčića 34 (Valamar Lacroma Resort), tel. (+385-20) 43 50 22, www.artgoden.com. A classy and sophisticated Croatian accessories brand. Your chance to take back home exquisite silk ties and scarves designed with Dubrovnik historical or marine motifs or even the same leather bag that we heard Roger Moore bought for his wife during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival! Also at Radisson Blue Resort&Spa and Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00. ACroata D-3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20) 63 83 30, www.croata.hr. Ties and other clothing in rich and varied materials come together to make you look the pro. Find the perfect gift while receiving a free history lesson on the invention of the tie. Q May - October Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. AMagnolika B-2, Getaldićeva 7, tel. (+385-) 099 885 69 10, [email protected], www.magnolika.com. Offering shnazzy non-conventional jewellery, funky t-shirts, bags and other designer gems made authentically here in Croatia. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A

DelicatessenDubrovačka kuća D-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 92, [email protected]. A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all local or Croatian. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. AFranja coffee & teahouse C-3, Od Puča 9, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 16, [email protected], www.franja.hr. A Croatian coffee company, also selling all other kinds of souvenir-wrapped delicatessen and porcelain. Q June Open 08:00 - 23:00. July - September 30 Open 08:00 - 24:00. October Open 08:00 - 21:00. AKraš C-2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www.kras.hr. The confectionary company Croatians have known and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 24:00. October Open 08:00 - 21:00. AOleoteka Uje C-2, Stradun, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 32, www.uje.hr. Hmmm…The first Croatian oil shop that offers a wide range of Croatian olive oils from Istria, the island of Brač and Zadar, whilst also offering an array of Mediterranean spices and dry fruits. Good nibbles! QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. AVinoteka Miličić C-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 77. Try their own wines from the Pelješac peninsula, or top quality fruit spirits, local candies and preserves. Q June, September - October 31 Open 10:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 10:00 - 23:00. A



61SHOPPING



62 SHOPPING


Designer ClothingMaria D-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 13 30, [email protected], www.maria-dubrovnik.hr. If you forgot to pack your fancy designer frocks, Stella McCartney shoes and Miu Miu handbag, then Maria is the place to stock up on replacements. Gorgeous and expensive in equal measure, it’s the kind of shop that makes you feel glamorous just looking through the window. Q June, September Open 10:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 10:00 - 24:00. October Open 10:00 - 20:00. AMax Mara D-3, Gundulićeva poljana 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 16, [email protected]. Sharp lines, muted colours, plush fabrics... Max Mara hits Dubrovnik! Can’t miss either way. Q June, September - October 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. AModni kantun D-2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 41. A little store in a street next to the Sponza palace, packed with unusual accessories, clothes and jewellery. Most items are by famous Croatian fashion designers, so it’s a little pricey but definitely unique and stylish. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. AXD Xenia Design G-4, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel), tel. (+385-) 091 442 11 17, [email protected], www.xenia-design.hr. Designer who make custom clothing suited to your size and personality. Also at Radisson Blue Resort and Croatia Hotel in Cavtat. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

JewelleryAtelier Secret C-2, Kunićeva 2. The jewelry from this place has ‘authentic’ written all over it. The wide range of unique necklaces, bracelets and earrings are all locally made and there is just about something for everyone. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. N

Clara Stones C-2, Nalješkovićeva 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 06, [email protected], www.clarastones.com. Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and precious stones, which may leave some women breathless. The uniqueness of this store is its presentation department which shows how a coral branch is worked on and the different phases of its lifecycle. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00. June 15 - September 15 Open 09:00 - 24:00. ADubrovnik Treasures B-2, Celestina Medovića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 98, [email protected], www.dubrovniktreasures.com. Unique homemade jewelry with the designer always using semiprecious stones, silver, philigrans and pearls. A great choice of necklaces, bracelets and earrings. Worth the visit! QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. AKrižek C-2, Boškovićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 27, www.zlatarna-krizek.hr. This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in 1935. They have an extensive collection of modern jewellery created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a wide selection of wedding rings. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A


63BUSINESS DIRECTORY


Banks & ExchangesErste&Steiermarkische Bank I-2, Vukovarska 26, tel. (+385-) 062 37 46 85/(+385-) 0800 78 90 free info, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.Hypo-alpe-adria bank I-2, Vukovarska 15, tel. (+385-20) 32 24 44, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. Also at I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 26a, tel. 32 54 80. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.OTP banka I-2, Vukovarska 19, tel. (+385-) 062 20 12 00, www.otpbanka.hr. Also at Placa 16 - Stradun, tel. 062 20 13 17. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.Privredna banka I-2, Obala S.Radića 8, tel. (+385-20) 72 01 00, [email protected], www.pbz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.Raiffeisen bank I-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 32 05 00, www.rba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

Zagrebačka banka I-2, Vukovarska 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 25 07, www.zaba.hr. Also at Gundulićeva Poljana bb, tel. 32 25 52, Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Q May 21 - September 30 Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. October Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Business ConnectionsAmerican College of Managemet and Technology J/K-3, Don Frana Bulića 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 30 00, [email protected], www.acmt.hr.Croatian Chamber of Economy - Dubrovnik County Chamber I-3, Pera Ćingrije 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 99, [email protected], www.hgk.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

ConsulatesBelgium H-2/3, Antuna Barca 10, tel. (+385-20) 43 81 77, [email protected]. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Denmark I-2, Bana J.Jelačića 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 33 35/(+385-) 098 28 50 88, [email protected]. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Italy I-3, Leichtensteinov put 3 (Rixos Libertas Hotel), tel. (+385-) 098 941 46 54, [email protected]. Q Open by arrangement.Spain K-2, Zagrebačka 2, tel. (+385-) 091 503 80 57. Q Open by prior arrangement.The Netherlands H-2, Od Sv. Mihajla 1, tel. (+385-20) 35 61 41/(+385-) 091 396 63 82, [email protected]. QOpen Tue, Fri 10:00 - 12:00.UK I-2, Vukovarska 22, tel. (+385-20) 32 45 97, [email protected]. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Wed, Sat, Sun.

Alavija nekretnine I-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 29, tel. (+385-20) 42 32 92/(+385-) 098 20 30 82, 098 28 82 54, [email protected], www.dubrovnik-properties.info. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00 and by prior arrangement. Closed Sat, Sun.Pro Krečak J-4, Put Republike 12, tel. (+385-20) 43 66 02, [email protected], www.nekretnine-prokrecak.com. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

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64 LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY


Call the expertsAna’s Studio K-3, U Pilama 5, tel. (+385-20) 41 65 15, [email protected]. Cosmetic treatments, nail art, hair cuts, body painting. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. NBeautyline K-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 30 81, [email protected]. Beauty centre. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. AZrinka H-2, Kralja Tomislava 7, tel. (+385-20) 43 62 32, [email protected], www.frizerzrinka.com. Hair studio. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Culture CentresL’Alliance Francaise J/K-3, Don Frana Bulića 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 63 53/(+385-) 092 285 76 84, [email protected], www.afd.hr. QOpen Tue, Thu 10:00 - 12:00.

Dry cleaners & LaundriesAmo Wash & Dry I-3, Pera Čingrije 8, tel. (+385-20) 33 33 47/(+385-) 099 501 63 02. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.Elegant I-1, Andrije Hebranga 106, tel. (+385-) 098 42 86 71/(+385-) 098 915 99 22. Dry cleaners. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. NSanja & Rosie’s Laundrette E-1, Put od Bosanke 2 (outside Ploce Gate), tel. (+385-) 091 896 75 09, [email protected], www.dubrovniklaundry.com. Self-service laundromat. Drop-off service available upon request. Washing - 50kn per load (up to 9kg), Drying - 10 kn per 10 minutes (up to 9kg). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Sunce I-2, Andrije Hebranga 8, tel. (+385-20) 41 25 18. Laundry QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. N

HospitalGeneral Hospital H-3, Roka Mišetica 2, tel. (+385-20) 431 777, [email protected], www.bolnica-du.hr.

MarinasACI Marina Dubrovnik Na Skali 2, Komolac, tel. (+385-20) 45 50 20, [email protected], www.aci-club.hr. 450 berths, 110 places on land. Two restaurants, souvenir shop, supermarket, mechanic, swimming pool, showers. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. AACI Marina Korčula Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 16 61, [email protected], www.aci-club.hr. 144 berths, 16 on land. Restaurant, hairdresser, mechanic. Staff speak foreign languages. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 07:00 - 22:00. October Open 08:00 - 20:00. ALuka Porat - Gruž H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 86 40, [email protected]. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A

PetsBobanović H-2, Kneza Domagoja 4, Lapad, tel. (+385-20) 35 73 45/(+385-) 098 24 39 38, [email protected]. Veterinary clinic for small pets, emergency calls on 098 / 24 39 38. Q Open 08:30 -12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. AFauna I-2, Rožat 32, tel. (+385-20) 45 14 66, [email protected]. Veterinary clinic. For emergency call 098 191 26 94. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Police stationCoast guard I-2, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 44 35 55, www.dubrovacko-neretvanska.policija.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.Police station I-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 13, tel. (+385-20) 44 37 77, www.mup.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.Traffic police Vladimira Nazora 32, tel. (+385-20) 44 36 66/(+385-20) 44 36 39. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Emergency number 112. In case of emergency you can call the EU-wide emergency number 112 or the emergency services as below:

Police 192Fire department 93Ambulance 94Coast guard 9155

Emergency number 112

Night shifts, Sun and holidays each week are covered by either Kod Zvonika pharmacy or Gruž pharmacy.Gruž H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 89 90. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. AKod male braće B-2, Placa 30, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 11. QOpen 07:00 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. AKod zvonika C-2, Placa 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 33. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. ALapad G/H-2, M.Vodopića 30, tel. (+385-20) 43 67 78. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Pharmacies

The Dubrovnik Foreign Circle, www.dubrovnikforeigncircle.com. A great local organisation that works on giving back to the community. Various social activities and gatherings are held and new comers to the city are particularly made welcome with the aim of building networks, establishing friendships and more. So come along!

Making friends


LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY

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66 DUBROVNIK NERETVA COUNTY


MljetA breeze brushing through pine boughs ... the flapping of a sail out in the channel, heard from high on a seaside ridge ... the bray of a donkey. Silence.Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the more remote and less developed islands, with a limited ferry service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands. This isn’t the place to come for late night bars, concerts or discos. One might hope it never will be.Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover. Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3km wide and 37km long making attractive to explore for a short or lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with 131km of coastline and many little niches and coves to discover, so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.” Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With fantastic weather, sailing, recreational sports, swimming, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960.The ancient Greeks who settled here left the first record of the place, calling it Melissa or Melitta, (meaning, bee; honey) because of the many bees that made their home there. Greek settlers became familiar with this island whilst colonising nearby Vis (Issa), Hvar (Pharos) and Korčula (Korkiru).The Illyrians settled the entire island in the 2nd Century BC, leaving graves and traces of military fortifications and

settlements in seven places, on hills near water sources. The best preserved sites are located on Veliki Gradac hill above the Veliko Jezero, and the fort of Vodica near Babino Polje.The Romans followed, their era lasting from the 2nd Century BC - 7th century AD. After Octavian wiped out the Illyrians in 35 BC, the Romans built their own settlements on the western side of the island. Evidence of their domain is most notable in Polače, where they built a palace. Other Roman ruins are located in Pomena, Žara and Pinjevci.The Croatian-Slavic nobility settled along the entire Adriatic coast around the end of the 8th and the start of the 9th Century. During this period of weakened Byzantine influence in the region, Croatians descended from the Neretva Valley and some settled on Mljet. The Romans, however, remained on the western end of the island for about another 300 years, until they were defeated in a battle on the mountain Bijeđ, between Blato and Polače. Evidence of this battle, including mass graves and remnants of bones, spears, swords and arrows, was discovered in 1938.In 1151, Prince Deša of Zahumlje donated the entire island of Mljet to the Benedictine Abbey of St Mary of Pulsano from Apulia. The arrival saw the construction of a church and grand monastery of the benedictines (1177-1198) on the islet in Veliko Jezero.Ragusa (later called Dubrovnik), acquired the Pelješac Peninsula in 1333, leaving Mljet isolated for a time. This changed in 1410, however, when Ragusa, now independent of Venice, annexed Mljet. Ragusa held the island until the dissolution of the Republic under Napoleon in 1808. Getting there and aroundTwo ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car ferry and a catamaran mostly provided by Jadrolinija ferries. Mljet is only 8km away from the peninsula of Pelješac, 18km from Korčula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There are a number of harbour ports in Mljet. Polače is its largest and main port of call in the north, however, you can also access the island from Sobra which is best used to reach Maranovići and Babino Polje. Other harbours include Pomena which has daily connections to Dubrovnik (watch out for reefs and shallow water), and Lokve or Gonoturska port where you can throw anchor just before the entry canal toward the Big Lake.Where to stayMljet has just one hotel (Hotel Odisej, Pomena b.b., www.hotelodisej.hr ) but with two campgrounds and a plethora of private rooms and apar tments, there is enough accommodation to triple the island’s population during the summer. For information about private accommodation, you can contact the island’s tourist offices at the Sobra ferry port and in Polače.


67DUBROVNIK NERETVA COUNTY





What to SeeMljet National Park (Nacionalni Park Mljet) Pristanište 2, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, 74 40 58, [email protected], [email protected], www.np-mljet.hr. Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries. Of interest, this park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect the native eco-system in the Adriatic. The lakes, 145-hectare Veliko Jezero and 24-hectare Malo Jezero, are the park’s dominant features. Thirty-metre-long channels link the two lakes and provide an outlet from Veliko Jezero to the sea. The current in the channels, swift enough to power mills during the Middle Ages, switches direction every six hours. On foot or by pedal you can enjoy a 9-kilometer path circumnavigating the lakes, and other paths wind up and over the hills. It’s Ok to swim or paddle in the lake, but scuba diving and motor boats are not permitted.The usual national park rules apply: Don’t pick the flowers, steal the artifacts, fish without a special permit, nor litter, and most of all, don’t start fires. Mjet is one of the most verdant of Croatia’s islands because it wasn’t heavily logged or used for farming or herding. Nevertheless, a 1917 fire took out many of the deciduous forests. Tickets to the park cost 40-100kn and can be purchased at booths in Polače and Pomena (Open 08:00 - 20:00), and at the Hotel Odisej. Admission includes the ferry to St Mary Island in the middle of Veliko Jezero, where you will find the Benedictine monastery and a restaurant. Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Mary (Samostan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island of Mljet, is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart. For a time, the monastery was the island’s governmental center.Benedictines, members of a monastic order who live in autonomous communities dedicated to work, prayer and peace, came to Mljet from Monte Gargano, Italy in the 12th Century to establish a monastery and build a Romanesque church dedicated to St Mary, which they completed in 1198. In the process the Benedictines became the island’s feudal lords, but they are credited with developing literacy, culture and art. The Church of St Mary was repeatedly modified over the centuries, acquiring by the 13th Century decorative reliefs of saints and a typical Romanesque belltower. Renaissance features such as the Gundulić coat of arms over the church portal, defensive towers and walls, the two-storey structure of the monastery and Baroque side chapels were added during the 16th and 17th centuries. In 1809, during the rule of Napoleon, the monastery was abandoned and the Austrian Forestry Office for Mljet used the buildings for offices until 1941. In 1960 it was renovated into a lovely hotel but given back to the bishopric in 1997, just under 800 years from the church’s inauguration.

The church has been reconsecrated, but other than a restaurant in the monastery cellars, the buildings are unoccupied. The island is small but offers a pleasant walk past two chapels. You can close your eyes for a moment and imagine the monks carefully pruning, weeding, and feeding in the gardens, which are now fairly overgrown.Polače The village is named for the ruin of a significant Roman palace and fortifications - one tower is 20m high - built between the 2nd and the 5th century. Second in size to the Palace of Diocletian in Split, you can’t miss it: The road to Pomena slips right between its high walls. Archaeologists have also discovered two 5th Century basilicas) west of the palace, baths, an arsenal and shipyards. The palace’s economy included salt production, olive oil, wine, honey, meat, cheese and fish. A paved route from the palace will take you up the hill. When you reach the road, bear right and continue straight to Mali Gradac, site of an Illyrian fort. A posted turnoff on the way will take you to Montokuc, the highest peak in the park, which grants breathtaking views over the lakes and the Adriatic. Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the National Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village, built after World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living among charming thick forests and working in agriculture, fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect for small yachts, which can pull up to the pier while you enjoy the hotel’s amenities.Goveđari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century when two families of land workers and fishermen from Babino Polje were given permission to settle by the Benedictines to work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle in Croatian). Located in the national park, 5km inland, this ethnologically interesting site is a great place to be surrounded by peace, serenity and lush vegetation. Babine Kuće This picturesque little fishing village is located on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveđari. It offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary. There are a number of private rentals here, too.

Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative centre of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a bypass road and a field (the name means “Grandma’s Field”), Babino Polje is surrounded with pine woods, groves of old, twisted olive trees and vineyards, and 514m Veliki Grad, the highest hill on the island. There are also a high per-capita number of churches: St Pancratius, St Andrew, St Michael, St George, St Blaise, St Salvation, St Paul, St Joseph and Our Lady of Mercy. The three oldest are the pre-Romanesque churches of St Andrew, St Michael and St Pancratius, which was built in the 11th Century. You can reach the church, and neighbouring St Blaise, by way of an unmarked turnoff below the town. When you turn in, the road immediately forks; take the sharp right, which bends again to head straight into the valley. On the left among the olive trees you’ll pass the single-storey Renaissance manor of the Ragusan governor of the island. Clustered around the village cemetery are St Pancratius, the 15th Century Gothic parish church of St Blaise, and the sotnica, a Renaissance-era government building in whose courtyard the governor sometimes issued judgments.




Prožura This medieval village was used by Ragusan nobles who - a bit like yourself - were looking for relaxing getaway. Perched on a hill over a Blato (an intermittent lake) and the sea, Prožura has a 17th Century watch tower and three beautiful churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the Church of St Martin and the Church of St Rocco. The Church of the Holy Trinity has characteristics similar to those of Dubrovnik’s Gothic chapels, plus a remarkable 15th Century Romanesque bronze crucifix. The church most likely was built in 1477 by the Benedictines from Lokrum, who were bequeathed the estate in Prožura. The crucifix includes figured representations of St Blaise (the patron saint of Dubrovnik), St Martin (the patron saint of the poor) and St Nicholas (the patron saint of sailors and fishermen). Benedictines lived and worked in a small monastery near the church. It’s partly ruined now; along with the tower, it has been adapted for reuse as a stable and storage.The Church of St Martin and village graveyard is situated on a bluff overlooking the village on one side and the island road and Pelješac Channel on the other. A plaque on the 14th Century porch thanks Jolanda Vecchietta, a teacher who came to the island during the Italian occupation in World War II, taught in the local school and fell in love with the island. After the war she returned to Italy but later paid for the 1998 renovations to the church. St Martin’s day is celebrated on November 11 with a mass in the church.The newer Church of St Rocco is situated on another small hill above the village. Costumed celebrations of St Rocco (who was believed to have saved the village from the plague), take place on August 16 every year. Prožura was the birthplace of Pavao Gracić, a well known bishop of Ston from 1635 to 1652.

Maranovići The 18th Century Baroque house of the Peš family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century parish church of St Anton rests on the foundations of an older church and features Gothic architectural elements. In nearby Korita, the ruined 14th Century Church of St Mary of the Hill mixes Gothic and Renaissance elements, and demonstrates features typical of the island’s churches. A roughly square plan with a deep porch extending to the front, and a picturesque belfry “na preslicu” (“on a distaff,” that is, the belfry has a split where the bell hangs, the way a distaff’s end is cleft to hold wool). Some of the manor houses have Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has its own 17th Century defence tower with loopholes for firing. Korita is named for the stone troughs, common on the island, that are used to capture rainwater.

Technically that would be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on his way home from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph seven years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife and his home. After walking along a path lined with rock walls and wildflowers, which takes you out above a deep grotto and the crashing waves, you may wonder why he was in such a hurry to leave. You can pick your way down into the cave; come back another day by boat to squeeze into it through a 30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grotto as a harbour.

Odysseus’s Cave

Mljet Tourist Board, Polače office Goveđari bb, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 41 86, www.mljet.hr. QJune, September Open 08:00 - 13:00, 16:30 -19:30, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

Mljet Tourist Board, Sobra office Sobra bb, Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, [email protected], www.mljet.hr. Around the side of the cafe at the ferry pier. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

Tourist information

KorčulaKorčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel. Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic towns which hits the news from time to time with reports of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason for this - the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic historic towns you’ll ever see with many opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wander through the atmospheric streets, where you’ll come across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like you’ve entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden




The Elafiti Islands - Koločep, Lopud and ŠipanThese tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of island life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million times more refreshing!Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone villas, some of which are now super family-run hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep have true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud’s Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a naturist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part.Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent restaurants.

architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the main entrance. Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual morning stroll.All in all, it’s well worth a few days’ stay and is a perfect place to recharge your batteries. One of the other most prominent features of the island is its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with swords, which you can witness from time to time during the summer months, heralded by drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes through prior to the performance. With such material, Korčula has a long tradition of tourism and is one of the more commercialised of Croatia’s Adriatic towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during high season. But this is a relatively large island, there are plenty of other places to explore and get away from it all. As with any island, the perfect way to explore is to rent a scooter or bicycle from any of the tourist agencies in town. Head towards the village of Lumbarda where you’ll find picturesque vineyards. You must try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding area, and said to have been brought from ancient Greece after the fall of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village and feel miles and centuries away from everything else.

LastovoLastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours. Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an untouched ecological paradise.

Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the warm sunlight is capti vating. Walking in the town’s streets, those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at a cul ture so ver y detached from modern urban life.

Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers.

With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here. Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair.

Lastovo Tourist Board Pjevor bb, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18/(+385-) 098 59 90 07, www.lastovo.hr. Q June 15 - September 30 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. October Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Tourist information

Korčula City Museum Trg Sv. Marka, tel. (+385-20) 71 14 20, [email protected]. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00 and by prior arrangement. June - September 15 Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 20kn.

Korčula Tourist Board Obala F.Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 58 67. Q June, September, October Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 15:00, 16:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

Tourist information




chimneys. Molunat, the largest coastal settlement, is a quiet fishing village in a pretty cove. The Prevlaka peninsula is the southernmost point of Croatia and there’s now a Nature Park here, from which you have views over the Gulf of Kotor in Montenegro, with wild mountain ranges behind. Prevlaka was until recently a military zone, so don’t be surprised to come across barracks now used as a realistic venue for paintball games. Military enthusiasts will also be interested to see the islet which used to be an Italian prison in WWII. There is a strange Cyrillic-inscribed monument within the Park, apparently containing the bones of prisoners who died of hunger. More cheerfully, there’s also a petting zoo, an excellent climbing wall, mountain bikes are for hire and you can feast on grilled meat and have a dip.

CavtatThe approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town is one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the campaniles of its churches poke their way into view above a canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all - this was the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants populated Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old streets, edged by cafés, a couple of good places to drink, a selection of

good restaurants and a handful of rather lovely small hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach, a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out of town are several large hotels which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally all-inclusive packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend

Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands aren’t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number of tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.

KonavleThe Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border with Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the airport is one of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday mornings you can witness the traditional songs and dances of Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk costume. Konavle consists of a fertile valley plus upland and coastal parts, all with stone villages that would reduce real estate agents to tears. In the central valley, you’ll find traditional rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious home grown food - locally reared meat and trout, sometimes served by waiters and waitresses in traditional costume (see our “Where to eat” pages). If you come in spring, you can try dishes made with wild asparagus and see almond orchards in bloom. The upland section borders with Herzegovina, for centuries the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its highest point is the Snježnica (“snowy”) peak, 1234m high. The village cemetery at Brotnice has unusual gravestones (stećci) of the Bogomil sect, featuring vivid primitive carvings and lettering in the ancient language of Bosnia. There are well-marked hiking trails, and organised trips include a hearty meal as part of the deal.The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that it is characterised by limestone cliffs. There are very few settlements, and the only people on the shores are locals looking for a little solitude. At the village of Močići there is a second century stone carving of the pagan god Mitreus, and scattered around are old houses with unusual conical




Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from the main road - a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near future.

Pelješac PeninsulaThe Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country. Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961). It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend you try it. Postup is another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable.On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing wind makes this a favorite spot for windsurfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet - ideal for island hopping.The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will hardly be long enough.

imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your doorstep.A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20kn), where one of the best-loved

Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion. An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.

NeretvaIf you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva. It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes called Croatia’s California. As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting pretty much everything around here. The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual race (Maraton lađa, August ) which attracts competing teams from around the world looks set to revive the picturesque tradition - the boats have a curiously flattish construction which is very attractive but definitely renders their navigation a challenge!More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional dishes of the area are often centered around two aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made into a tomato casserole called brudet - you can try it in the popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković, where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.

Tourist Information Centre of Metković Tourist Board Stjepana Radića 1, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 68 10 20/(+385-) 098 171 16 05, www.metkovic.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Tourist information

Tourist informationKonavle district Tourist Board Zidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, www.tzcavtat-konavle.hr. QJune, September Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00. October Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

Tourist informationOr ebić Tourist Boar d Zrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 18, [email protected], www.tz-orebic.com.QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.

Ston Tourist Board Pelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, [email protected], www.ston.hr. QJune Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. July - October Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00.




TrstenoIf you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green, get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be delighted by this historic arboretum - of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here. Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates - don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct.East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view encapsulating the true meaning of this place - botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum - a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy. The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland. Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature.

The village of Trsteno is a modest l i t t le set tlement wi th a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 y e a r o l d A s i a t i c plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a

remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.

Župa DubrovačkaThe road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can still see here, driven by streams that race down the mountainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in question.These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently going on and things will get better.

We highly recommend these resorts for the following reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!) There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter environment and clean beaches.Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks, the post office and a large supermarket. Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little villas nestled in leafy shade.

Tourist informationŽupa Dubrovačka Tourist Board Šetalište dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 62 54, [email protected], www.dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Q June, September

Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few man-made sights are more magnificent than the grizzled fourteenth-century walls of Ston. For many years only a tiny stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications was accessible to the public, but after a long period of renovation a significant circuit of wall was ceremonially opened to the public in October 2009. Visitors can now scramble around the ring of bastions that surrounds the town of Ston itself, enjoying fantastic views of the surrounding countryside (entry 10-30kn). The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of Dubrovnik gained Ston and the neighbouring Pelješac peninsula, and immediately set about securing it against potential Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well worth the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to become a key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped to keep the republic’s fleet on the seas. Spanning the isthmus that connects the Peljesac peninsula to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers and 5 fortresses, the walls comprise one of the longest stretches of surviving fortifications in the whole of Europe. Local sources reckon i t to be the second longest stretch in the world after the Great Wall of China, although this eye-popping claim was probably intended as an attention-grabbing ruse by PR-conscious tourist officials. In the event, we feel obliged to report that a few idle seconds of web-surfing revealed that Kumbhalgarh in India boasts 36km of surviving wall - although we didn’t bother investigating any fur ther. Info: www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr.QJune - July 31. Open 08:00 - 19:30. August - September 15. Open 08:00 - 19:00. September 16. - October 31. Open 08:00 - 18:00.

The Walls of Ston


75STREET REGISTER


A. Barca H-2,3A. Bošković J-2,3A. Hallera I-2A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2A. Kazali H-2A. Mihanovića J-2A. Šenoe H-2A.G. Matoša I-2A.T. Mimare K-2Androvićeva C-4Ante Starčevića I-2Antuninska C-2Aquarium E-3Arhiv D-2Asimon E-1B. Bušića L-2Bernarda Shawa K-2Babin Kuk G-2Bandureva D-4Banjska I-3Batahovina G-1Batala H-2/I-2Biokovska G-2Bokar A-3Bokeljska G-1Boninovo J-3Bosanka L-2Boškovićeva C-2Božatska I-2Braće Andrijića D-4Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3Brdasta J-2Brgatska L-2

Brsalje A-2Brsečinska I-2Bunićeva poljana C-3Buža D-1Cavtatska K-2Celestina Medovića B-2Crijevićeva C-4Cvijete Zuzorić C-3Čubranovićeva B-2Ćilipska I-2Ćira Carića G-2D. Pulića A-1Dalmatinska H-2Dante Alighieria J-3Dinka Ranjine C-3Dolska H-1Dr. A. Šercera H-2Dr. V. Mačeka I-2Dračasta K-2Dropčeva C-2Državna cesta D-8Dubravkina G-2Dunavska G-2,3Džamija C-3Đorđićeva B-2Đura Baljevića D-4Đura Basaričeka I-1E. Kumičića H-2F. Kolumbića H-2F. Prešerna I-2F. Supila L-2Ferićeva B-3Flore Jakšić G-2

G. Rajčevića I-2,3Garište B-2Getaldićeva B-2Gorica Sv. Vlaha H-3/I-3Gornji kono I,J,K-2Gradac J-3Gradićeva D-4Grbava C-4Grebenska H-2Grudska K-2Gruška obala H-1Gundulićeva poljana C/D-3Hanibala Lucića C-1Hladnica H-3Hliđina B-3Hodiljska I-2Hvarska E-1I. Matijaševića J-2I. Račića L-2I. Vojnovića H-2/I-3Ilije Sarake D-4Imotska I-1Ispod Minčete B-1Ispod mira D-4Ispod Petke G-2Istarska J-3Ive Dulčića G-2Ivana Zajca G,H-1Ivanska G-3Iza Grada B-1, K-2Između ribnjaka H-2Između tri crkve J-2Između vrta K-3

Između polača C-2Izvijačica A-1J. Berse H-2J. Pupačića H-2Jakljanska H-1Janjinska H-2Josipa Kosora I-3Kantafig G-1Kardinala Stepinca F-2Kaznačićeva C-3Kliševska G-2Kneza Domagoja H-2Kneza Branimira I-2Kneza Damjana Jude E-3Kneza Hrvaša C-4Knežev dvor D-3Koločepska L-2Komajska H-2Komolačka G-1Konavoska L-2Korčulanska I-3Koritska H-1Kotorska I-3Kovačka D-2Kralja Tomislava H-2Kunićeva C-2Kunska I-1L. Matačića H-1L. Rogovskog G,H-2Lapad G-3Lapadska obala H-2Lazareti L-2Lazarina L-2


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