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© 2008 Gale, a part of Cengage Learning
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KidHaven Press
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Or you can visit our Internet site at gale.cengage.com
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Every effort has been made to trace the owners of copyrighted material.
Printed in the United States of America1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12 11 10 09 08
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION DATA
Busby, Barbara Sheen.
Foods of Ethiopia / by Barbara Sheen Busby.
p. cm. -- (A taste of culture)
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN-13: 978-0-7377-3775-2 (hardcover)
1. Cookery, Ethiopian--Juvenile literature. I. Title.
TX725.E84S54 2007
641.5963--dc22 2007024353
Acknowledgement
We would like to express our sincere
gratitude to Aster Kassaye of Aster’s Ethiopian
Restaurant, Austin, Texas.
ISBN-10: 0-7377-3775-1
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Chapter 1The Basics of Ethiopian Cooking 4
Chapter 2Favorite Foods 18
Chapter 3Coffee and Snacks 31
Chapter 4Special Occasions 43
Metric Conversions 55Notes 56
Glossary 58
For Further Exploration 60
Index 62
Picture Credits 64
About the Author 64
Contents
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The Basics
of EthiopianCooking
Ethiopia is one of the oldest civilizations in the
world. Early records of Ethiopia date back to
biblical times. In fact, members of the Ethiopian
royal family believe they are descended from the Old
Testament’s King Solomon and Makeda, Queen of
Sheba. Throughout the nation’s long history, Ethiopian
cooks have depended on three ingredients—teff (tef ),
spices, and butter—to give their cooking its distinct
flavor. These ingredients have been the foundation ofEthiopian cooking since 3000 b.c.
A Unique GrainTeff is a unique grain that grows only in Ethiopia and
neighboring Eritrea. Measuring only 1/32 of an inch
C h a p t e r
1
4
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Food Regions of Ethiopia
Chickpeas
ggplants
ams
Coffee Beans d>J ~J
ERITREA RED SEA
VEggs ( )
Lamb
Chicken
Lentils
Honey
GULF OF
ADEN
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6 Foods of Ethiopia
in diameter, it is the tiniest grain in the world. It is so
small that it takes 150 grains of teff to equal the weight
of just one grain of wheat.
Although teff is small, it is so nutritious that food
experts call it a “super grain.” Eight ounces of teff hastwice as much iron as an equal portion of beef and
more calcium than a cup of milk. It is also loaded with
protein and complex carbohydrates.
An Essential Part of Life
Ethiopians use teff to make injera (en-jer-a), a spongy
tart flatbread that Ethiopians cannot do without.“When I explain Ethiopian food to people who have
never had it before, I always start by telling them
Although teff is the smallest grain in theworld, it is considered a “super grain”
because it is so nutritious.
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The Basics of Ethiopian Cooking 7
about injera,” explains chef Marcus Samuelsson, an
Ethiopian who grew up in Europe. “It is what makes
Ethiopian food special.”1
The bread is served at every meal and is so much a
part of Ethiopian life that when Ethiopians meet, theygreet each other by asking, “Have you eaten injera
yet?” Because Ethiopia has experienced many periods
of food shortages, an answer of “yes” implies that all is
Injera, made from teff, is an essential part of the Ethiopian diet and iseaten at every meal.
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8 Foods of Ethiopia
well. Sharing the nourishing bread during hard times
kept many Ethiopians alive.
Plates and Utensils
Making injera is time consuming. To get its tart flavor, which is similar to that of sourdough bread, the dough
must be left for three days while a natural substance in
teff causes it to ferment. The dough is then shaped into
a large disk that measures about 20 inches (50cm) in
diameter and looks like a giant pancake. It is dropped
into a skillet known as a mitad (mi-tad) and fried over a
Kategna
Kategna is Ethiopian spicy toast. It is popular for
breakfast and snacks. Ethiopians use injera to
make kategna. Because it is not easy to find injera
in Amer
ican supermarkets, th
is rec
ipe uses flourtortillas.
Ingredients2 flour tortillas
1 tablespoon butter, softened
¼ teaspoon each of cayenne pepper and paprika
½ teaspoon garlic powder
Instructions1. Mix the spices with the butter. Cut the tortillas into
quarters. Spread the butter mixture on the tortillas.
2. Put the tortillas on a tray in a toaster oven or broiler and
bake until the tortillas are crisp.
Serves 2–4.
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The Basics of Ethiopian Cooking 9
Ethiopian meals, shared with friends and family, are eaten with fingersinstead of utensils.
wood fire. When the dough hits the hot pan, air bubbles
form. This gives injera a spongy texture.
When the bread has cooled, it is spread across a
large communal platter that is the same size as themesab (meh-sahb), a drum-shaped straw table used in
Ethiopia. The main course, which is almost always a
variety of saucy stews, is then poured over the injera.
According to journalist Amy Pataki, “It looks like an
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10 Foods of Ethiopia
Special SkillsIn the past, it was the job of Ethiopian
women to make the mesab, the Ethiopian
di
ni
ng table.
Weavers used di
fferentgrasses, which they wove into intricate
patterns, and added vegetable dyes to
color their work. They waterproofed the
tables with the juice of the aloe plant.
Ethiopian women also wove straw baskets for carrying
things, as well as straw bowls, hats, and parasols. Although
many modern Ethiopian women buy these products ready-
made, some Ethiopian women still work with straw, espe-
cially those who live in rural villages.
Weavers use different grasses and vegetable dyes to create colorfulbaskets.
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The Basics of Ethiopian Cooking 11
oversized artist’s palette, the various stews daubed onlike various colors of paint.”2
More injera is folded and placed beside every diner.
Then the fun begins! Everyone eats from the central
serving tray and no utensils or individual plates are
used. Instead, diners break off pieces of injera from the
pile beside their place and use the bread to scoop up bits
of stew from the shared platter. The many air holes in
the bread and its stretchy nature allow it to absorb the
stew like a sponge. When the folded injera is gone, the
diners share the injera on the center tray. It has soaked
up all the savory stew juices so it is especially delicious.
The traditional Ethiopian meal is always served with injera.
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12 Foods of Ethiopia
Although this type of shared eating may seem odd
to North Americans, Ethiopians insist it brings people
closer together. In fact, a popular Ethiopian proverb
goes, “People who eat off the same plate will neverbetray each other.”3
Red Hot
Fiery spice blends complement injera’s tangy flavor.
For centuries, Ethiopian cooks have been combining
The spices used to make berbere and other spice blends are sold inoutdoor markets.
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The Basics of Ethiopian Cooking 13
different spices to create a wide range of spice blends.
At first, the spices were used to preserve food that would
otherwise spoil. But they added so much flavor that they
soon became an essential part of every Ethiopian meal.
Iyassu, who grew up in Ethiopia, explains: “Ethiopianfood is the ultimate in spicy cookery, not only because
the food is hot, but also because of the abundance of
spices used.”4
Most Ethiopian spice blends begin with very hot
red chile peppers. They give Ethiopian cooking vivid
color, zesty flavor, and an enticing aroma. Berbere
(bar-bare-ree)
is far and away the most popular ofthese blends. This scarlet spice mixture combines
red chile peppers with up to 20 other spices such
as garlic, cinnamon, cumin, nutmeg, cardamom,
ginger, and fenugreek seeds, all of which are sold
in Ethiopian markets. Here, according to author
Many BlendsBerbere is not the only spice blend that
Ethiopians create. Awaze is another popu-
lar spice mixture. It starts with mild green
chile peppers. Ginger, garlic, cardamom,
basil, and water are added. Ethiopians use
awaze like catsup, or as a d
ip
. It
is m
ildertasting than berbere.
Mitmita, on the other hand, is hotter than berbere. It is
a powder made from the hottest chile peppers in Ethiopia
and mixed with cardamom and cloves. Mitmita is sprinkled
on meat.
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14 Foods of Ethiopia
To make berbere, dried chiles andgarlic are ground together in a mortarusing a pestle. Many different spicesare combined to form a berbere recipethat is unique to each Ethiopian cook.
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The Basics of Ethiopian Cooking 15
Helen Bergan, who lived in Ethiopia for three years,
“A woman could choose those spices she wanted from
the colored mounds that filled the air with fragrance.
With these spices, taken home wrapped in pieces
of newspaper, she made her own special blend ofberbere.”5
The first step in making berbere is drying the chiles
and garlic in the sun. This takes three days. It is common
to see the bright red peppers and the snow-white garlic
spread on straw mats outside Ethiopian homes.
Once dry, the spices are put in a stone bowl known as
a mortar and ground by hand into a fine powder with amalletlike tool called a pestle. Depending on the cook,
because each cook has his or her own special recipe, a
variety of other spices is added. The spice blend is then
either roasted or placed out in the sun to dry again.
Because making berbere is time-consuming, many
Ethiopians make at least 15 pounds (6.80kg) of berbere
at once. The spice, which is kept in clay containers with
tight-fitting lids, can keep for several months. There is
always a supply in every Ethiopian home. Ethiopian
cooking would be incomplete without it.
Spiced ButterBesides using spices to flavor their food, Ethiopians
mix spices with butter to create niter kebbeh,
(nit-ra keb-bah), a rich and fragrant oil that almost all
Ethiopian food is cooked in. Niter kebbeh starts with
clarified butter. It is the oil that forms when water and
milk solids are removed from butter. For this to occur,
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16 Foods of Ethiopia
butter is heated until all the water in it evaporates and
the milk solids separate from the oil. The milk solids are
skimmed off, leaving a golden oil.
To make niter kebbeh, clarified butter is mixed with
as many as 30 spices. These may include onions, garlic,
cumin, oregano, turmeric, and basil, to name just a
Eggs Firfir
Ethiopians add spice to everything, even scram-
bled eggs. This is an easy dish to make and a goodintroduction to Ethiopian cooking. If you prefer
not to use butter, you can spray the pan with
nonstick spray. Add more or less spice depending
on your preference.
Ingredients4 eggs
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and chopped
½ teaspoon each of garlic powder, g
inger,cardamom
¼ cup onions, chopped
1 tablespoon butter
Instructions1. Break the eggs into a bowl. Add all the other ingredients
and mix well.
2. Put the butter in the pan. Heat the pan over medium heat
until the butter melts.
3. Put the egg mixture into the pan. Stir the mixture until the
eggs cook.
Serve with injera or other flat bread.
Serves 2–4.
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The Basics of Ethiopian Cooking 17
few. The spiced oil can be stored for months without
refrigeration.
Ethiopians cook almost everything in niter kebbeh.
It adds a powerful perfume and an intense buttery
flavor to meat, vegetables, and stews. “The spicedmixture known as nit’ir qibe [niter kebbeh],” explains
Samuelsson, “is kept handy in most Ethiopian kitchens
to add flavor to meat and vegetable stews. In fact, virtu-
ally no meal in Ethiopia is made without nit’ir qibe.”6
The spiced butter has been a part of Ethiopian
cooking for thousands of years, as has teff and fiery
spice blends like berbere. Just like their ancestorsbefore them, modern Ethiopian cooks depend on these
unique ingredients to give their cooking its distinc-
tive and delicious taste. These are the foundation of
Ethiopian cooking.
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18
Favorite
Foods
C h a p t e r
2
Ethiopians like their food spicy. But because
Ethiopian cooks artfully blend a variety of spices
to create Ethiopia’s favorite dishes, no one flavor over-
powers another. Soothing side dishes mix well with
fiery main dishes and keep the food from burning the
mouth.
Ethiopia’s National Dish Wat (watt), a spicy stew made with berbere, is Ethiopia’s
national dish. It is far and away the most popular
food here. Wats featuring beef are among everyone’s
favorites, but the stew can also be made with chicken,
lamb, fish, lentils, or vegetables. Since religious beliefs
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Favorite Foods 19
prohibit most Ethiopians from eating pork, it is rarely
used.
Beef wats may contain fresh or dried meat. The meat
may be on the bone, sliced, shredded, minced, ground,
or made into sausages. Any and every cut of meat is
used, from the finest steaks to organ meats. Wats made
with liver, brains, kidneys, tongue, or intestines are
not unusual. Even the toughest cuts of meat become
fall-apart tender after being slowly cooked. Nothing is
wasted.
The national dish of Ethiopia is wat, a spicy stew that can be made withmany different meats and vegetables.
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20 Foods of Ethiopia
Ethiopian women pridethemselves on their wat recipes,and many keep them secret.
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Favorite Foods 21
Every Ethiopian cook has his or her own wat
recipe. No two are exactly alike. The content and
amount of spices differ from cook to cook. Ethiopian
cooks pride themselves on their wats and many keep
their recipe secret. In fact, in the past, Ethiopian women were judged by the quality of their cook-
ing and, especially, their wats. Those who made the
best wats were most respected by their neighbors. So
were their husbands, who were applauded for having
the wisdom to marry such good cooks. Explains chef
Daniel J. Mesfin: “A woman worth her salt values her
cooking no less than her looks. In fact, she is morepartial to her cooking because she is socially judged
by it: an unaccomplished woman makes her husband
a laughingstock.”7
Things have changed in modern Ethiopia. Women
are respected for many things besides their ability to
cook. What has not changed is the Ethiopian people’s
love of wat. Ethiopian cooks agree that the best wats
begin with onions. They are fried in niter kebbeh
until they are soft and brown. The onions sweeten
and thicken the stew, while the niter kebbeh adds a
rich buttery flavor. Depending on the cook, a variety
of fragrant spices such as ginger, cloves, fenugreek,
cumin, and garlic are added. Zesty berbere, water, andtomato sauce follow, along with either meat, chicken,
or vegetables. The stew is left to slowly cook until
the sauce thickens. As it cooks, the flavors blend and
intensify. There is the scorching berbere, the sweet gin-
ger, the bitter cumin, and the savory garlic, all balanced
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22 Foods of Ethiopia
perfectly by the sour taste of the injera that the stew is
poured over. Or, to add even more tart flavor, pieces of
injera are sometimes cooked right in the stew. Then the
stew is known as fitfit (fit fit). Either way, the flatbread’s
sour taste complements the hot and sweet spices in thestew, while the stew’s vivid red color contrasts beauti-
fully with the pale injera.
For those who find wat or fitfit too fiery, there is
alicha (ah-lee-cha). Alicha is by no means bland. Since
it does not contain berbere, however, it is milder tasting
than wat. It depends on niter kebbeh, mild peppers, and
various spices like ginger, garlic, and cardamom for itspleasant heat. Food writer Linda Walton describes her
first taste of alicha: “Each mouthful was as delicious as
the first.” It, she explains, was not “bland or too spicy.
The aromatic seasoning came from a combination of
shallots, red pepper, fresh ginger, cardamom, cumin,
coriander, curry…. It was wonderful.”8
Vegetarian FareEthiopians love meaty stews. However, because of reli-
gious reasons, most Ethiopians observe 200 fast days
during the year when they do not eat meat. Ethiopian
cooks have developed many delicious dishes for these
meat-free days. Stews that feature a spicy ground pea
powder called shiro (shu-roh) are popular. Shiro is
inexpensive, good tasting, nutritious, and filling. “Shiro
is a part of everyday Ethiopian life,” explains an article
on Ethiopian Millennium, a Web site dedicated to
Ethiopian culture. The powder, the article continues,
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Favorite Foods 23
Dishes made with shiro weredeveloped to be eaten on thedays Ethiopians do not eat meat.
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24 Foods of Ethiopia
A Land of Contrasts
Ethiopia is a land of contrasts. In rural
villages, many Ethiopians live in conical
or beehi
ve-shaped bamboo homes orin stone houses with straw roofs. Most
are quite poor. They do not have elec-
tricity, gas, or running water. Cooking
is done over a wood fire. Fetching wood and water for
cooking is usually the job of young girls, who rarely go
to school.
In Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia, many people
live in modern high-rise apartments. They have kitchens
with electricity, running water, and modern appliances.
Here, both girls and boys attend school.
Many rural Ethiopians live in villages of beehive-shaped homes.
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Favorite Foods 25
“is incredibly popular among Ethiopians of every walk
of life.”9 It is no wonder that almost every Ethiopian
cook keeps a supply handy.Shiro is made from yellow split peas or chickpeas.
Turning them into a flavorful powder takes time, which
is why some Ethiopians buy the powder ready-made.
Many others still make it by hand.
Making shiro involves multiple steps. First, the
peas are boiled in water with chile peppers, berbere,
and garlic. Then they are placed out in the sun to dry.
This can take days. When the peas are ready, a
variety of spices such as cardamom, basil, and gar-
lic are added. The mixture is ground into flourlike
powder. Since many Ethiopians do not have food
Popular VegetablesEggplant is a popular vegetable in Ethio-
pia. Ethiopian eggplants look different
from the large purple eggplants popularin North America. Ethiopian eggplants are
small, oval shaped, and they are cream
colored. In fact, they look a lot like eggs.
Collard greens and kale are also popular vegetables
here. Both are similar to spinach in taste and color. Sama
leaves are another spinachlike vegetable. Sama is a leafy
shrub similar to nettles. It stings the skin when it is touched.
Cooks wear gloves while preparing it.
Potatoes, yams, and bell peppers are also eaten
frequently. Beans, peanuts, and lentils are other important
parts of the Ethiopian diet.
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26 Foods of Ethiopia
Ethiopian CollardGreens
Collard greens are often served as an accompa-
niment to Ethiopian stews. They may be served
alone or mixed with ayib.
Ingredients1 pound collard greens
2 tablespoons butter
½ teaspoon each of cayenne pepper, paprika,
and garlic powder
salt to taste
Instructions1. Wash the collard greens. Remove the stems and chop the
greens into 1-inch pieces.
2. Put the greens in a bowl, cover with water, and microwave
until the greens are tender, or cook them in a saucepan on
the stove on low heat.
3. Melt the butter. Add the spices to the melted butter. Pour
the spiced butter over the cooked greens.
Serves 4–6.
Stews are often served with collard greens as a side dish.
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Favorite Foods 27
processors, grinding the powder is done with a mor-
tar and pestle. It takes a lot of time and energy to get
it fine enough.
Once the powder is made, making stews with shiro
is relatively easy. The powder is added to water, onions,spices, niter kebbeh, and green peppers and slowly
cooked. Other ingredients, such as pumpkin, cabbage,
and green bananas, may also be added.
Depending on what spices are added, the stew can
be red-hot or relatively mild. It may be served piping
hot or chilled. Thick and creamy shiro stews taste of
zesty and sweet spices, hearty peas, and savory peppers.Ethiopians love the taste so much that they often eat it
as a side dish on nonfasting days. “It is finger-licking
good, very popular for all occasions,”10 says Mesfin.
Chickpeas (above) or yellow split peas (right) are used tomake shiro.
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28 Foods of Ethiopia
Soothing Cheese and Yogurt Shiro, wats, alichas, and fitfits are often accompanied by
a soothing side dish of ayib (iab), which is homemade
cheese, or irgo (ir-go), homemade yogurt. Their creamy
flavors balance the spicy taste of the stews and cool the
palate.
Ayib is a white cheese that looks like cottage cheese but has a tangy taste.
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Favorite Foods 29
Ayib is a white cheese that is similar in appear-
ance to cottage cheese. Although mild in flavor, it is
not bland. Lemon juice and spices such as ginger,
black pepper, salt, and cayenne pepper are added to
the cheese, which gives it a tangy savory taste. Somecooks add a touch of niter kebbeh. Others add cooked
vegetables such as collard greens. Sometimes yogurt is
mixed in with the spiced cheese, which gives the dish a
flavor similar to feta cheese. Ayib is, according to
Samuelsson, “simple to make, it’s wonderful on its own,
spread on a piece of injera, or when used to balance the
sharpness of heavenly spiced foods.”11
Ayib
This spiced cottage cheese is a good side dish. It is
also tasty on crackers. If you want it spicier or less
spicy, adjust the amount of spices.
Ingredients8 ounces cottage cheese
½ teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon chopped parsley
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Instructions1. Combine all ingredients. Mix well.
Serves 4.
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30 Foods of Ethiopia
The same ingredients are used in making irgo, but
yogurt is substituted for cheese.
Both dishes are served with Ethiopian stews. Diners
dip pieces of injera into the cool and creamy side
dishes as a way to refresh their palates and lessenthe heat in their mouths. Their smooth texture and
slightly sour flavor just add to the range of flavors that
characterize Ethiopia’s favorite foods. Yes, these food
are hot and spicy, but they are also sweet, tart, smooth,
cool, and creamy all at the same time. Individually,
each flavor is distinctive. Mixed together, they bal-
ance each other to create the delicious dishes thatEthiopian people love.
Irgo, a cool and creamy yogurt, is used along with ayib to refresh diners’ palates and lessen the spicy heat of the other dishes.
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31
Coffee and
Snacks
3
C h a p t e r
F
or Ethiopians, snack time is a time for family, friends,
and neighbors to socialize. Ethiopian snacks centeraround coffee, a drink that has been a part of Ethiopian
life and culture for centuries.
The Birthplace of CoffeeHistorians believe that the first coffee trees origi-
nated in Kaffa, Ethiopia. In fact, the word “coffee” is
derived from Kaffa. Although the trees were part of the
Ethiopian landscape for hundreds of years, no one
thought to consume coffee beans until the third cen-
tury. According to Ethiopian legend, that was when a
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32 Foods of Ethiopia
Coffee has been grown in Ethiopia since the 6 th century, and even today itis the country’s most important crop.
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Coffee and Snacks 33
goat herder noticed that his flock became frisky after
eating the beans. The goat herder tried them and liked
the way they helped him stay alert while he was tend-
ing his animals. Soon, people throughout Ethiopia
were snacking on coffee beans, which they ground androlled in animal fat. Even today, some Ethiopians enjoy
a similar snack made from ground roasted green coffee
beans and niter kebbeh.
Traders traveling the spice routes between East Africa
and the Arabian Peninsula spread the word about the
beans’ stimulating effect. Coffee soon became popular
in the Middle East and Europe. No one knows who first
used the bean as a drink, but many historians believe it
was an Ethiopian.
By the 6th century, Ethiopians were growing coffee.
It soon became Ethiopia’s most important crop and it
still is today. In fact, the coffee business employs about
25 percent of the Ethiopian people.Ethiopian coffee is known throughout the world for
its fine taste and delicious aroma. It is no wonder that it
is the Ethiopian people’s favorite drink. According to an
article on Ambassa, the Web site of an Ethiopian coffee
exporter, “Coffee is central to the lives of all Ethiopians.
In the countryside, where some people live a day’s walkfrom the main road, coffee is often the only beverage of
choice…. In the cities, as well as the countryside, coffee
is drunk with friends, family, on special occasions, or
simply out of choice. Coffee is everywhere!”12
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34 Foods of Ethiopia
The Coffee CeremonyCoffee is more than a beverage here. It is part of a social
ritual that many Ethiopians participate in at least once,
and sometimes three times, a day. When time permits,
friends and neighbors gather in the morning, at noon,
and in the evening to share news and to participate in
what is known as the coffee ceremony.
The ceremony begins with the roasting of coffee
beans. Traditionally, this is done in a flat pan with a
long handle. The hostess holds the pan over a tiny
charcoal stove and shakes the pan. The beans pop and
darken as they roast, releasing a delightful aroma.
When the beans are fully roasted, the hostess carries
them around the room waving her hand over them.
This ensures that the coffee’s rich perfume fills every
nook and cranny. Next, the
hostess grinds the beans,
using a mortar and pestle.The crushed beans are put
The coffee ceremony is anEthiopian social ritual that
begins with the roasting of thecoffee beans…
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Coffee and Snacks 35
into a tall black clay pot called a
jebena (ja-be-na). Water is addedand the coffee is boiled. The host-
ess serves the coffee, which is
dark and strong, in little cups
similar to espresso cups. Rue, a
bitter herb, butter, salt, or honey
may be added to the coffee in
much the same way that North Americans add sugar. Sugar,
which did not arrive in Ethio-
pia until 1935, has only recently
become popular.
Traditionally, Ethiopians
drink three cups of coffee dur-
ing the ceremony. The first is thestrongest. The second and third
cups are progressively weaker.
This is because the original cof-
fee grounds are reused to make
the succeeding cups. The last cup
is believed to contain the soul of
the coffee, so drinking it is considered good luck.
“Ethiopians take the ceremony very seriously,”
explains Helen Bergen. “And it takes a long time. But
the coffee was worth waiting for. It was the best coffee
I ever tasted.”13
…and ends with the drinking of three cupsof coffee, which are poured from a jebena.
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36 Foods of Ethiopia
Spicy, Salty, or CrispyUnlike in the West, where pastries are often served with
coffee, in Ethiopia salty-spicy snacks accompany cof-
fee. In fact, Ethiopians rarely eat sugary treats. Popcorn
and kolo (koh-loh), a type of cracker, are among themost popular snacks here.
Ethiopian popcorn is similar to that eaten in North
America. However, since most Ethiopians do not own
a microwave oven, Ethiopians make their popcorn the
old-fashioned way, by cooking it in a long-handled pan
Spiced Popcorn
This is a spicy snack that is easy to make by using
microwave popcorn. You can add raisins to the
spiced popcorn if you like.
Ingredients2 bags, 3 ounces each, plain microwave popcorn2 tablespoons butter
½ teaspoon each of cayenne pepper, paprika,
and salt
¼ teaspoon each of cumin and garlic powder
Instructions1. Prepare the popcorn following the package directions.
2. Put the butter in a microwave-safe bowl. Melt the butter in
the mi
crowave.
3. Add the spices to the melted butter and stir. If the popcorn
is salted, do not add salt.
4. Put the popcorn in a large bowl. Pour the spiced butter
over the popcorn.
Serves 4.
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38 Foods of Ethiopia
Outside Influences
The cooking of most African nations has
been strongly influenced by the European
countri
es that coloni
zed them.
Ethi
opi
ai
sthe only nation in Africa that was never
colonized. Its mountains and deserts made
colonization difficult.
The Italians, however, did have some impact.
Italy invaded and occupied Ethiopia from 1935–1941.
Although Ethiopian cooks did not adopt Italian cook-
ing practices, many Italians remained in Ethiopia after
the occupation ended. They opened a number of
Italian restaurants in Addis Ababa, making pizza a
popular Ethiopian snack.
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Coffee and Snacks 39
over a charcoal fire. This is not hard to do. First, niter
kebbeh is heated in the pan. When the spiced butter
is hot, the popcorn is added and the pan is covered.
The lid must fit securely so the kernels do not escape,
but not so tightly that steam cannot. The cook shakesthe pan as the popcorn pops. This keeps the kernels
from burning and ensures that each kernel is covered
with the spicy buttery taste of the niter kebbeh. When
the popping stops, the popcorn is topped with salt.
Sometimes raisins are added. The result is a multifla-
vored treat that tastes great with a cup of coffee.
The country of Ethiopia consists largely of mountains and desert.
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40 Foods of Ethiopia
Sambussas
Sambussas are another popular snack.
They are savory pastries stuffed with a
wi
de range of fi
lli
ngs.
Boi
led lenti
ls, chi
ck-peas, potatoes, vegetables, and ground
beef are all popular fillings. Once the
dough is filled, it is folded and fried until
it is golden.
Sambussas are fried pastries filled with anything from lentilsto meat.
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Coffee and Snacks 41
Kolo is another coffee-time favorite. These crisp
spiced crackers look a lot like peanuts. Kolo is made of
wheat dough spiced with berbere. The dough is formed
into long narrow rolls, then cut into peanut-size pieces.
Traditionally, the dough is cooked on a griddle until itis crunchy, but it can be baked or fried.
Besides accompanying coffee, kolo is a popu-
lar between-meal snack. Young boys sell the treats,
wrapped in paper cones, on street corners and at train
and bus stations. Travelers often take kolo on long trips.
When stored in an airtight container, the little crackers
will not spoil or lose their crispness, and they are easyto carry. Ethiopians love their crunchy flavor. Wube,
an Ethiopian, warns: “Once you start eating them, you
can’t stop.”14
Dried Meat
Qwanta (ku-wan-ta), dried spicy meat similar to beef
jerky, is another popular snack. Qwanta is usually made
from beef, but it can also be made from goat or lamb.
The meat is rubbed with salt, berbere, and fragrant
spices such as fenugreek and cardamom. Then it is cut
into long thin strips and hung to dry on wires strung in
the sun. This takes one to three days. Ethiopians have
been drying meat in this manner for thousands of years.It is the oldest method of preserving meat known to
man.
Once all the moisture has been removed from the
meat, it is ready to eat. Or, it may be smoked over
a wood fire, then fried in niter kebbeh before it is
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42 Foods of Ethiopia
eaten. Either way, the end result is crisp and crunchy
with a zesty flavor that Ethiopians find hard to resist.
Food critic Robert Sietsema says qwanta tastes “much
chewier and tastier than fresh beef.”15
That may be why, in addition to snacking on it,Ethiopians use qwanta in fitfit. Sometimes they grind
qwanta into a powder and mix it in with shiro to make a
creamy nonvegetarian stew. Mesfin explains: “Qwanta
is mainly a snack food … It is very versatile and can be
consumed as it is, fried, cooked in sauce, or ground
into a powder and stewed.”16
Indeed, crispy snacks such as qwanta, kolo, andspiced popcorn are irresistible. It is easy to understand
why these snacks, accompanied by freshly brewed
local coffee, bring Ethiopians together.
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43
Ethiopian hospitality is legendary, and guests are
always welcome. “At home, hospitality was our way
of life!” recalls Berhane Kitflom, an Ethiopian man who
now lives in Texas. “I can remember as a small boy that
my grandfather always brought a least one guest home
to share our meals with us. Sometimes, when no one
came, he sent someone out into the road to look for a
complete stranger to do the honors. Needless to say,few in our province remained strangers for long!”17
Such occasions as weddings, holidays, and birth-
days give Ethiopians a special chance to extend
their hospitality. In fact, guests are not only warmly
welcomed; they are hand fed their first bite of food.
Special
Occasions
C h a p t e r
4
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44 Foods of Ethiopia
At their wedding, the newlymarried couple practice gursha.
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Special Occasions 45
This practice, known as gursha (gur-sha), begins when
the guests are seated. That’s when the hostess goes
around the table. She breaks off a tiny piece of injera,
wraps it around a choice bit of stew and places it directly
into the mouth of each guest. This tells the guests thatthey are welcomed and appreciated. “The custom,”
explains an article on Ethiopian Restaurant, a Web site
dedicated to Ethiopian food, “ is no different from a hug
between friends, no less bond affirming than a mother
feeding a child by hand.”18
Doro Wat If the occasion is a special one, a delicious chicken stew
called doro wat (do-roh watt) is likely to be the gursha
offering. “A festive meal without a richly flavored doro
wet [wat] is practically a contradiction in terms,”19
explains Mesfin.
Doro wat begins with chicken. Although packaged
chicken can be purchased in supermarkets in Ethiopiancities, Ethiopian cooks who live in small villages usually
buy a live chicken from an outdoor market. They
slaughter the bird at home, pluck the feathers, then
soak the chicken in water, lemon juice, and salt to
remove bacteria. Finally, they cut the chicken into eight
to twelve pieces. The thighs and legs, with their sweet
dark meat, are considered the choicest.
Doro wat is then prepared in the same way as other
wats, except about five minutes before the stew is done,
whole peeled hard-boiled eggs are added to the mix.
The eggs quickly absorb the flavor of the sauce and
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46 Foods of Ethiopia
Doro Wat
Doro wat is not hard to make, but it has many
steps and takes time.
Ingredients1 broiler chicken, 2–3 pounds, cut in 8 pieces
with skin removed
2 cups onions, chopped
¼ cup butter
1 cup chicken broth
1 cup water
juice of one lemon
2 tablespoons tomato paste4–6 whole hard-boiled eggs, shells removed
1 teaspoon each of ginger, paprika, cayenne
pepper, garlic, salt, and black pepper
Instructions1. Make several cuts in each of the chicken pieces with a
knife. Put the chicken in a bowl with the lemon juice, salt,
and 1 cup of water. Put in the refrigerator. Let the chicken
soak for 15–30 minutes
.
2. Put the butter in a stew pot, add the onions, and cook
them until they are browned.
3. Add the spices, tomato paste, and broth.
4. Dry the chicken parts and add them to the stew pot. Cover
the pot and cook on low for 20 minutes.
5. Add the hard-boiled eggs. Spoon the sauce over the eggs.
Cook covered on low until the chicken is done and the
sauce has thickened, about 10–20 minutes.
Serve over injera or other flat bread.
Serves 4–6.
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Special Occasions 47
As in many countries, Christmasand Easter in Ethiopia are special occasions that call forcelebration and special meals.
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48 Foods of Ethiopia
spices and the red color of the berbere. The finished
stew tastes of tender juicy chicken, stick-to-the-ribs
boiled eggs, and a myriad of hot and sweet spices.
“It is the first Ethiopian dish I ever had,” recalls chef
Samuelsson, “and I immediately liked the tender meat,
spicy eggs, and the flavorful sauce laced with berbereand ginger.”20
Doro wat is standard fare at almost every Ethiopian
festivity, including Christmas. In fact, many Ethiopians
give up meat for 43 days before Christmas for religious
reasons. On Christmas day, when they can eat any meat
dish they want, the most popular choice is doro wat.
The stew is also an Easter mainstay. Traditionally,
eggs represent rebirth, a concept closely connected
with Easter. The egg-filled stew is not only delectable;
it is also symbolic of the holiday.
Nutritional Problems
During the twentieth century, drought and
political unrest led to serious food short-
agesi
n Ethi
opi
a.
One hundred thousandEthiopians died because of food shortages
in 1973. Up to one million died between
1983 and 1985.
Things are better in Ethiopia today, but there are still
problems. According to the World Bank, one half of the
nation’s population is undernourished and 48 percent of
all Ethiopian children under age five are underweight.
Many groups throughout the world are helping Ethiopia.
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Special Occasions 49
Festive Breads
Although injera is the bread that Ethiopians eat every-
day, different types of dabo (da-boh), baked yeast
breads, are served on important occasions and holi-
days. There are many different kinds of dabo. They
can be made with wheat, chickpeas, or barley flour.
They can be dark or snow-white. Some are sweet-
ened with honey, while others are filled with a spicy
meat or chicken sauce. Defo dabo (de-foh da-boh), a
large white bread spiced with fenugreek, cumin, and
coriander and topped with black sesame seeds, is
among the most popular.
Special occasions would not be the same without
this large round bread, which measures about 24 inches
(60cm) in diameter. In fact, its size makes it perfect for
sharing. An article on Ethiopian Millennium explains:
“If there is one thing you are certain to find at every
An InterestingPractice
Before eating, Ethiopians perform a hand-
washing ritual. Each diner holds out their
right hand. The hostess pours water from
a beautiful jug over them and then offersa towel. Only the right hand is washed because Ethiopians
use only their right hands for eating. Using the left hand is
considered rude.
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50 Foods of Ethiopia
Honey Water
Although coffee is the most popular beverage in
Ethiopia, honey water is another popular snackdrink. It is served cold and is refreshing on a hot
day.
Ingredients4 cups water
4 tablespoons honey
Instructions
1.
Pour the honeyi
nto a pi
tcher or jar.
Add the water and sti
rwell. Make sure the honey is dissolved.
2. Cover the pitcher and refrigerate overnight. Shake well
and add ice before serving.
Serves 4.
Ethiopian household on every Ethiopian occasion, ithas got to be defo dabo… Ethiopians have a tradition
of sharing meals with neighbors and friends. At times
of festivals and national holidays, defo dabbo comes
to strengthen this tradition because it is baked in large
quantity to serve up as many people as possible.”21
Before defo dabo is baked, the dough is wrapped in
enset (en-set) leaves and placed in a clay pan. Enset is abananalike plant that grows in most Ethiopian gardens.
Ethiopians use starch from the plant to make pancakes,
cereal, and dumplings. They use the leaves to cook
and wrap food in. This is cheaper and better for the
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Special Occasions 51
Honey and water are mixed tomake a cool and refreshing drink.
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52 Foods of Ethiopia
environment than plastic wrap. Plus, the leaves impart
a fruity scent to the food they encase, and they help
keep the bread moist and flaky.
When the bread is done, the eldest member of the
household cuts it, giving each guest a slice. At weddings,
the fathers of the bride and groom share this honor. Itis part of a special ceremony in which the two fathers
give the bride a nickname that she will be called from
then on. Once the name is chosen, the fathers cut out
the center of the bread to form a ring. They hold the
ring in front of the bride’s face like a picture frame and
Kitfo
Kitfo can be served warmed or browned. This
version browns the meat. If you prefer it to beblander, use less spice.
Ingredients1 pound lean ground steak
½ onion, chopped
2 ounces butter
¼ teaspoon each of cayenne pepper, paprika,
coriander, garlic, and cinnamon
pinch of salt
Instructions1. Melt the butter in a frying pan over medium heat.
2. Mix the salt and spices with the meat.
3. Brown the onions. Add the meat. Cook until the meat is
browned. Stir constantly to keep the meat from sticking.
Serves 4.
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Special Occasions 53
announce her new name. Then, pieces of the bread are
given to all the guests who say the bride’s new name as
they eat the bread.
Barely CookedKitfo (kit-foh) is another celebratory food that is often
served at weddings. It features freshly minced beef
combined with niter kibbeh, cardamom, ginger, black
pepper, salt, and mitmita (mit-mit-a), a super-hot
spice blend. Traditionally, the meat, which is eaten
almost raw, is bathed in niter kibbeh and heated just
long enough to warm it. It is quite similar to a raw meatdish popular in Europe called steak tartare.
According to a legend, Ethiopian warriors who
wanted to avoid cooking meat over a large fire, which
would attract the enemies, created kitfo. Many modern
cooks brown the meat before serving it. This lessens
the risk of food poisoning since cooking meat until it is
no longer red destroys harmful bacteria.
Whether browned or almost raw, kitfo is made
with the leanest, most-tender meat available. This is
usually steak. The meat is hand-minced until it is finer
than ground meat, then smothered with niter kebbeh
flavored with lemon verbena. It is a spice that tastes
and smells like lemons. The meat tastes extremely richand buttery with a red-hot flavor and a citrusy aroma.
It is usually served with spiced collard greens and
cooling ayib. A saucer full of mitmita accompanies
the meat. Brave Ethiopians sprinkle it on the already
fiery meat to add mouth-scorching flavor. Food writer
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54 Foods of Ethiopia
Jason Sheehan describes his first taste of kitfo: “It was
delicious, a pure kick of blood and protein topped with
spiced Ethiopian butter and laced with the wicked
heat of a smoky-hot chile… I never had anything like
it before, nothing even close. But I know that I loved it,that it was one of those flavors that hits you in the back
of the head like a lightning bolt.”22
Indeed, Ethiopian festive foods are filled with excep-
tional flavors. Sharing these foods with guests is a
way of life here. Hostesses even go as far as feeding
their guests their first bite of food just to make them
feel welcome. It is no wonder that the warm atmo-sphere and the delectable foods make all occasions
memorable and fun.
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55
Metric Conversions
1 ounce (oz.) = 28.0 grams (g)8 ounces = 227.0 grams1 pound (lb.)
or 16 ounces = 0.45 kilograms (kg)
2.2 pounds = 1.0 kilogram 1 teaspoon (tsp.) = 5.0 milliliters (ml)1 tablespoon (tbsp.) = 15.0 milliliters1 fluid ounce (oz.) = 30.0 milliliters1 cup (c.) = 240 milliliters1 pint (pt.) = 480 milliliters1 quart (qt.) = 0.96 liters (l)1 gallon (gal.) = 3.84 liters
8- inch cake pan = 20 x 4-centimeter cake pan9-inch cake pan = 23 x 3.5-centimeter cake pan11 x 7-inch baking pan = 28 x 18-centimeter baking pan13 x 9-inch baking pan = 32.5 x 23-centimeter baking pan9 x 5-inch loaf pan = 23 x 13-centimeter loaf pan2-quart casserole = 2-liter casserole
1/4 inch (in.) = 0.6 centimeters (cm)1/2 inch = 1.25 centimeters1 inch = 2.5 centimeters
212º F = 100º C (boiling point of water)
225º F = 110º C250º F = 120º C275º F = 135º C300º F = 150º C325º F = 160º C350º F = 180º C375º F = 190º C400º F = 200º C
Mass (weight)
Liquid Volume
Pan Sizes
Length
Temperature
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Notes
Chapter 1: The Basics of Ethiopian Cooking 1. Marcus Samuelsson, The Soul of a New Cuisine . Hoboken,
N.J.: John Wiley & Sons, 2006. p. 145.
2. Amy Pataki, Ethiopian House, www.ethiopianhouse.com.
3. Zel and Reuben Allen, Vegetarians in Paradise, “Dining in
Paradise,” www.vegparadise.com/dining4.html. 4. Iyassu Demissie, Iyassu, “Ethiopian Food,” www.geocities.
com/ethiopianfood.
5. Helen Bergan,Climbing Kilimanjaro. Arlington, VA: BioGuidePress, 1999. p. 11.
6. Marcus Samuelsson, The Soul of a New Cuisine . p. 34.
Chapter 2: Favorite Foods 7. Daniel J. Mesfin, Exotic Ethiopian Cooking . Falls Church, VA:
Ethiopian Cookbook Enterprises, 2006. p. xvi.
8. Linda Walton, Messob Ethiopian Restaurant, “EthiopianHistory,” www.messob.com/3rd_street_villager_2.html.
9. Ethiopian Millennium.com, “Shiro,” www.ethiopianmillennium.com?/SHIRO.html.
10. Daniel J. Mesfin, Exotic Ethiopian Cooking . p. 189. 11. Marcus Samuelsson, The Soul of a New Cuisine . p. 52.
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Chapter 3: Coffee and Snacks 12. Ambassa Enterprises, “Coffee in Ethiopia,” www.telecom.
net.et/~ambassa/page6.html.
13. Helen Bergen, personal interview with the author, LasCruces, New Mexico, March 16, 2007.
14. Wube.net, “Recipes,” www.wube.net/Recipes9.html
15. Robert Sietsema, Village Voice, “Queen of Sheba,” May 10,2001, www.shebanyc.com/VillageVoice1.html.
16. Daniel J. Mesfin, Exotic Ethiopian Cooking . p. 30.
Chapter 4: Special Occasions 17. Quoted in Queen of Sheba Restaurant, “Welcome Guests,”
www.thequeenofsheba.com.
18. Ethiopian Restaurant.com, “Gursha,” www.ethiopianres-taurant.com/gursha.html.
19. Daniel J. Mesfin, Exotic Ethiopian Cooking . p. xix.
20. Marcus Samuelsson, The Soul of a New Cuisine . p. 245.
21. Ethiopian Millennium.com, “Habesha Bread (Defo Dabo),”
www.ethiopianmillennium.com/DEFO_DABO.html.
22. Jason Sheehan, Westword, “Stranger in a Strange Land,” June29, 2006, www.westword.com/2006-06-29/dining/stranger-in-a-strange-land/2.
Notes
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58
alicha: Stew that does not contain berbere.
ayib: (also spelled iab) Spiced cheese similar to
cottage cheese.
berbere: Hot spice blend made with red chiles.
clarified butter: Butter in which all milk fat andliquids have been removed.
dabo: Yeast bread.
defo dabo: Yeast bread popular on special occasions.
doro wat: Stew containing chicken and hard-
boiled eggs.
enset: A plant similar to the banana plant.
ferment: Become sour.
fitfit: A stew containing injera.
gursha: Practice in which guests are hand-fed their
first bite of food.
injera: Flat spongy bread.
irgo: Ethiopian yogurt.
jebena: Tall coffee pot with a rounded bottom.
kitfo: Minced raw or lightly cooked meat.
Glossary
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59
kolo: (also spelled qolo) Spiced crackers.
mesab: Basket-like dining table.
mitad: Large pan in which injera is made.
mitmita: A very hot spice blend.
mortar: A bowl used for grinding spices.
niter kebbeh: (also spelled nit’ir qibe) Spiced
clarified butter.
pestle: A mallet-like tool used for grinding spices.
qwanta:Dried meat similar to jerky.
shiro: Spicy powder made of ground peas.
teff: Grain used to make injera.
wat: (also spelled wett/wet) Stew containing berbere.
Glossary
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60
Books
Dan Elish, Eleanor Ayer, Daniel Benjamin, S. Gish,
Ethiopia. New York: Benchmark Books, 2007. Discusses
all aspects of Ethiopia, including history, geography,
and culture.
Yvonne Young Merrill, Hands-on Africa: Art Activities
for all Ages . Salt Lake City: Kits Publishing, 2000. Talks
about Africa with accompanying art activities, includ-
ing a section on Ethiopia.
Constance Nabwire, Bertha Vining Montgomery,
Cooking the East African Way . Minneapolis: Lerner
Publications, 2001. A children’s cookbook offering reci-pes from East Africa, including Ethiopia.
Jeffrey Zuehike, Ethiopia in Pictures . Minneapolis:
Lerner Publications, 2004. Introduces the reader to
Ethiopia through pictures.
Web SitesFact Monster, “Ethiopia,” (http://www.factmonster.
com/ipka/A0107505.html). Information on Ethiopian
history, geography, culture, economics, and daily life
written for kids.
For Further Exploration
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61
Food in Every Country , “Food in Ethiopia,” (www.
foodbycountry.com/Algeria-to-France/Ethiopia.
html). Gives information about the geography, history,
and food of Ethiopia with recipes.
Rainbow Kids, “Let’s Learn about Ethiopia,” (www.rain-
bowkids.com/HTMLFiles.aspx?page=EthiopiaAct). A
Web site just for kids that offers coloring activities
about Ethiopia, including the Ethiopian flag.
Tourism Ethiopia , (www.tourismethiopia.org). This
Web site maintained by the Ethiopian government has
lots of information, maps, and pictures of Ethiopia.
For Further Exploration
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63
National dish, 18–21Niter kebbeh, 15–17Nutritional problems,
48
Onions, 21
Pastries, 36, 40Pataki, Amy, 9, 11Peanuts, 25Peppers, 13, 25Pestle, 15Pizza, 38Plates, 11Popcorn, 36, 39Pork, 19
Potatoes, 25Poverty, 24
Qwanta, 41–42
Recipesayib, 29collard greens, 26doro wat, 46eggs firfir, 16
honey water, 50kategna, 8kitfo, 53spiced popcorn, 36
Red chile peppers, 13
Religious beliefs, 18–19,22, 48
Ritualscoffee ceremony,
34–35handwashing, 49
Royal family, 4Rue, 35Rural villages, 24
Sama, 25Sambussas, 40Schools, 24Sheehan, Jason, 53Shiro, 22, 23, 25, 27Sietsema, Robert, 42
Snacks, 36–37, 39–42Social rituals. See Rituals
Solomon (king), 4Special occasions
foods for, 45–53hospitality during,
43–45, 54Spice blends, 4, 12–15,
50
Spiced butter, 15–17Spiced popcorn, 36,39
Split peas, 27Steak, 52–53
Stewsalicha, 22doro wat, 45–46, 48fitfit, 22shiro, 22–23, 25, 27vegetarian, 22, 25–27
wat, 18–21Straw baskets, 10Sugar, 35
Tables, 10Teff, 4, 6, 7
Urgo, 28Utensils, 11
Vegetables, 25 Vegetarian dishes, 22,25–27
Villages, 24
Walton, Linda, 22 Wat, 18–21 Weavers, 10 Weddings, 52–53 Women
cooking by, 21 weavers, 10
Yams, 25 Yogurt, 28, 30
Index
(c) 2011 Kidhaven Press. All Rights Reserved.
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About the AuthorBarbara Sheen is the author of numerous works of
fiction and nonfiction for young people, including
more than a dozen books in the Taste of Culture series.
Cover: © Jim Sugar/CORBIS
AP Images, 6 (left), 44© Adrian Arbib/CORBIS, 20© Robin Avila, Austin, TX, 11, 19, 23, 28Bruno Barbier/Robert Harding/Jupiter Images, 47The Gale Group, 5© Gavin Hellier/JAI/Corbis, 35© Gavin Hellier/Robert Harding World Imagery/Corbis, 34
© 2007 Royalty Free/iStockphoto.com, 6 (right), 7, 14,26, 30, 40
© Jacques Langevin/CORBIS SYGMA, 37© Carl & Ann Purcell/CORBIS, 12© Ricki Rosen/CORBIS SABA, 9© 2007 Royalty Free/Shutterstock.com, 10, 24, 27, 32,
51
© Jim Sugar/CORBIS, 7Tony Waltham/Robert Harding/Jupiter Images, 38–39
Picture Credits