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VOLUME 16, NUMBER 4 APRIL 1992

HOROLOGICAL

Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute

Alice B. Carpenter 2

Henry B. Fried 6

PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE What is a Credit Union?

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS A Bracket Clock With a False Pendulum Arc

David A. Christianson 10 TIMELOCKS Sargent & Greenleaf . Timelock Movements, Part IV

Wes Door 16 SHOP TALK How to Start and Manage A Business, Part VIII

Archie B. Perkins 20 TECHNICALLY WATCHES Antique Watch Restoration, PartLXXVI

Marshall F. Richmond 26 PICKLE BARREL Jewelry Crafting and Repair About Solder, Flux, and Pickle

Fred S. Burckhardt 29 ROCK QUARRY Let's Have Out With It

J.M. Huckabee 32 AS A CLOCKMAKER TURNS Mandrel Turning, Arbor and Wheel Work

Henry B. Fried 36 BOOK REVIEW Wristwatches: History of a

Century's Development 1o1 Wooden Clock Patterns Making and Repairing

Wooden Clock Cases Royal Clocks

Robert Ridenour 40 ON SOVIET THOUGHT

HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145·9546) is publi;ihed monthly and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers lnstiMe, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211, for$40.00 per year ($4.50 per copy in the United States and $50.00 per year, $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.) Secqnd class postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211.

OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time). Closed on all national holidays. PHONE (513) 661-3838, AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24-hour recording), FAX (513) 661-3131.

Who Will You Vote For?

S&G Timelocks

8

10

Is This a Conspiracy?

29

DEPARTMENTS

Association News/18 AWi Project Extend/28

Bulletin Board/30 Material Search Network/35

New Members/38 AskHuck/39

News in the Trade/42 Classified Ads/44

Dates to Remember/48 Advertisers' lndeX/48

EXECUTIVE AND EDITORIAL OFFICES

AWi Central P.O.Box11011 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, OH 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838 Fax: (513) 661-3131

Milton C. Stevens: Editor Regina Stenger: Associate Editor Donna Baas: Produdion Director Harold J. Herman: Senior Technical Editor

Margie M. Brater: Circulation Manager Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager Mary Sansalone: Seminar Coordinator

TECHNICAL EDITORS:

James Adams Robert F. Bishop James H. Broughton Fred S. Burckhardt David Christianson Charles Cleves Joe Crooks Wes Door

AWi OFFICERS:

Henry B. Fried J.M. Huckabee John P. Kenyon John A. Nagle Archie B. Perkins Robert D. Porter Marshall F. Richmond Marvin E. Whitney

Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW: President Wes Door, CMW: First Vice President James Adams, CMW: Second Vice President Fred S. Burckhardt: Secretary Marvin E. Whitney. CMW, CMC, FAWI: Treasurer

AWi DIRECTORS:

William Biederman, CMW James H. Broughton, CMEW Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW Henry Frystak, CMW Ewell D. Hartman, CMW, FAWI Gerhard Hutter, CMW Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI Robert L. Macomber, CMC Benjamin Matz, CMW Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CMEW, FAWI

Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: Affiliate Chapter Director Wit Jarochowski: Research & Education Council Director Robert F. Bishop, CMEW: Immediate Past President

Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Secretary David LaFleche: General Manager James Lubic: Technical & Educational Services Manager Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Technical Director

Reprinting and reproduction la prohibited without written permission from the American Watchmakers Institute. Copyright ©1992 by the American Watchmakers Institute.

2 Horological Times/April 1992

* FELLOWS * OF THE AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE

George Daniela Henry B. Fried Josephine F. Hagans

• Orvllle R. Hagans Ewell D. Hartman Harold J. Herman

Gerald G. Jaeger Robert A. Nelson

• Hamllton E. Pease Mitton C. Stevens Marvin E. Whitney •Deceased

President's Message WHAT IS A CREDIT UNION? A credit union Is a member-owned cooperative financial institution established by a group or groups of people havtng a common bond. It is a non-profit organization organized to permit those in the field of membership to pool their savtngs, lend them to another, and own the organization where they save, borrow, and obtain related financial services.

What are the objectives of a credit union? -- To protect, preserve, and safeguard the assets of the member-owner. -- To offer financial services of high quality at fair rates.

Some things l found out while looking for information on credit unions: -- Credit union services are not available to the general public. -- Credit union services are available only to the members of the organization

that has the credit union. -- The Board of Directors of a credit union are chosen from its members. -- Credit unions usually pay slightly higher interest rates than the banks pay

on savings. -- Credit unions usually charge slightly lower interest rates than the banks do

on loans. -- Some, but not all, credit unions offer services other than loans, such as credit

cards and checking accounts. -- Credit union members own the credit union. That ownership ls represented

by shares. There Is no outside group of stockholders. Surpluses, after ensuring reserves, are distributed to members as dividends, reduced interest, and/or improved services.

Why all this information on credit unions? At the annual meeting last June in Cincinnati, one of the recommendations

that came from the Affiliate Chapters was to investigate the feasibillty of AWi offering its members the services of a credit union. Milt Stevens accepted the responsibility of looking into this.

At the mid-year Board of Directors meeting, Mr. Stevens reported that the regulations for credit unions vary so much from state to state, that for AWi to establish its own credit union would entail so much work and require more staff which would make the project prohibitive.

However, upon investigation Mr. Stevens has located a credit union already established that has met all the requirements of each state. They might be willing to accept AWi members.

What we need to know now Is: How many A WI members are interested in and want to invest in a credit union? We need to know a ballpark figure of prospective customers before negotiations can proceed.

If you have interest in an AWi Credit Union for members, please mall the Interest Form on this month's mailing envelope. Completing the survey form will in no way obligate you to join a credit union. At this time we merely need to know how much interest there might be.

Special thanks to Lena Daughtry, Manager, Telco Credit Union, Carolina Telephone Co., Tarboro, NC for a crash course on credit unions.

CZ&v0~ ON THE FRONT: Lilies of the valley welcome in the Spring. Slide by Ed Patten of Novato, CA.

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A Bracket Clock With a False Pendulum Arc

Q Recently I restored a beautiful complicated bracket clock.

I am trying to establish some information about the clockmaker and the probable time of manufacture. I have some of the provenance as supplied by the present owner. Would you have any information on the maker of this clock? It has a crown wheel escapement, striking all four quarters, and the hour on the hour.

Leo A. Jaroslaw Acton, MA

A I have examined the photos you sent and I find some seri

ous discrepancies in the authenticity of the clock's proclaimed date (1620) and some other features. Firstly, the clock claims, lYy virtue of some engraver (not a very careful one), a date at least 34 years earlier than the pendulum was first used in a clock. Secondly, the engraving of the numerals of the date are not the same engraver or design as those on the chapter ring.

Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, * FNAWCC

I am particularly aware of this since I _ ti~~i..;;:..2~~~~::.:::'.a~~ need to replace an arc-sector of an early 17th century pocket sundial, and

ute track, copied, at best from the Dutch. Bruge (Belgium) might have been the original name on the dial, perhaps not, but that does not matter. As for our good King Ludwig, I've been to his Walt Disney castle twice and was very much aware of the clocks. This one was not "schmaltzy" enough for his taste, and might have been snuck into the auction lYy the auctioneer hoping to capitalize on the "Warhol" syndrome of provenance. I wish that you had also sent a photo of the movement and of the hands.

I did much searching for the proper numerol,s of that period. Tlwse of "1620" and those on the chapter ring are not alike, nor lYy the same engraver, I do not find any reference to Lukavetski of Moravia.

I found an illustration of a clock like yours in the book "AJ;te Uhren" lYy Muhe and Vogel, page 80. Here a


similar clock is attributed to Franz Weiskopf in Wien at the end of the 18th century. However, I'd date this closer to about 1750 when clocks like these with false pendulum arcs were in vogue. Al,so, note the exact same finials (ffombeau) as in the photo. Also, the Dutch-style scalloped min- (Please turn to page 6)

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Q Enclosed are photos of two watches for which I am hop

ing you can supply me information. One is a John Ward and the other a Lady Olga.

Ron Peterson Merril, WI

A TheJohnWard"London"(my quotes) is a typical French

watch of the late 18th century. The front wind, porcelain dial, and the balance bridge with securing screws at both ends is different from the typical English which guards the balance with a cock secured by one screw at one end only.

I have notes of having examined a watch by John Ward in which I state as I have above. I also noted that it was of very poor construction. There are other notes I have of a similar watch by Ward that also was typical French and front wind. John Ward of Fore St., Strand, London is listed as operating between 1784-1799. I believe he imported the Swiss or French watches and placed his name on them, as most French watches were left unsigned. You faikd to include the stampings (if any) on the inside back case which would haf.!e given me the year if the case was made in England.

The Lady Olga appears to bea model especially made for Sears-Roebuck. It probably was made by the U.S. Watch Company at Waltham-but not the Waltham Watch Company. It was made very cheaply and sold likewise. Similar watches were produced by the Seth Thomas Watch Company for the same retail catalogue outfit.

Q I am enclosing photographs of a watch about which I am

seeking information. Inscribed on the watch is the following: Depose, R.U ., Geneve 12008, M. Swiss. The watch chimes on the hour and quarter hours.

William Stevens Abilene, TX

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A Your watch is a nicely Swissmade quarter repeater of the

late 1890 period. The purpose of the square case was to improve its timekeeping accuracy. This was simply accomplished by the square case which (they assumed) would only occupy the pendant-up position in a pocket. Thus, they could regulate it to that one position. Watches, shifting from one to

other positions, have to be adjusted to those three or four other positions, thus one sometimes sees the legend "adjusted to five positions."

The movement appears to hone been made by the Hahn Company. The repeating mechanism is activated by the side plunger, and the speed of running by the centrifugal regulator with its four governing arms and two opposing spring-loaded weights.

Such watch cases for the most part were gun metal. Sometimes, one sees a self-winding pocket watch in such watch cases.

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placed on the Analyzer face up or face down. If the green light flashes and the Analyzer beeps, it may be assumed the battery in the watch is good. Do not replace the battery. The watch will require additional service by a certified quarlz watch maker. If no beeps emanate from the Analyzer while the watch is in place and the green light does not flash, replace the battery with a fresh Eveready® watch battery.

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Candidates for AWi's 1992 Election It is time to cast your ballot for five new mem

bers of the AWI Board of Directors from the 10 candidates pictured here. Those selected will join the current members of the Board during the annual AWI meeting June 27-28, 1992. They will select AWI officers for the coming year from within their ranks. The new directors will serve for a three-year term.

During the month of April, the ballots and a background sketch of each candidate and the voting instructions will be mailed first class to each active member of AWi who is eligible to vote. The election mailing will also contain proposed changes to the AWI Constitution & Bylaws. The issues presented should be carefully considered before voting. Ballots should be returned in the official ballot return envelope which will be provided. The envelope ~11 be addressed to the certified public account-

ant who is responsible for counting the votes and certifying the outcome of the election.

All ballots returned must be postmarked on or before the deadline date which will appear in the voting instructions. Only marked ballots should be sent to the certified public accountant. Please do not include any notes or requests for information. The CPA must hold all ballots he receives until sometime after July 1st. AWI would be unable to answer any extra messages until that time.

The future of A WI depends upon the quality of the people who serve on its Board of Directors, its officers, and the members of AWI committees. Please take the time to study the qualifications of each candidate carefully when you receive the information. Vote for those whom you think will insure the continued success of AWI. O

ROBERT F. BISHOP Glenshaw, PA

FRED S. BURCKHARDT Ft. Worth, TX

RICK DUNNUCK Julian, NC

CLARENCE E. HARDY Roanoke, VA

GERALD G. JAEGER Sheboygan, WI

JOHN KURDZIONAK Stoneham, MA

JOHN A. NAGLE Myerstown, PA

MARSHALL F. RICHMOND Milan, IN


PAUL D. WADSWORTH Hilton, NY

JAMES WILLIAMS Cortez, CO

Does Quartz Clean Really WorK?

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When Should I Clean a Quartz Movement?

A low voltage test should be performed to determine if the movement needs cleaning. If the watch does not run below 1.25 volts, the movement needs cleaning. Dry oil in the pivot holes is the primary reason movements stop running. The "Quartz Clean" solvent quickly dissolves the old oils and flushes away any contaminants clogging the gear train.

Should the Gear Train Be Disassembled?

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•

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Is it Necessary to Remove the Circuit Board and Coil?

The "Quartz Clean" solution will not damage circuit boards if " they are sprayed. How-~ ever, it is recommended that you remove the cir-cuit board and coil before spraying the movement to gain better access to the gear train.

Should I Remove the Date Wheels?

Date wheels and any other cosmetic parts should be removed before cleaning to avoid possible damage.

How Long Does it Take to Clean & Dry a Movement?

Actual cleaning and drying

1

%1 time after partial disassem-bly is less than 15 seconds.

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"QuartzClean" will attack some plastic parts. It is not recommended for use on plastic movements, unless a scrap movement is tested first. For plastic movement cleaning, Zantech recomends "PlastiCLEAN", a solvent tested to be totally safe for all plastic quartz movements.

Will "Quartz Clean" Blow the Particles Off the Rotor?

The high pressure spray will blow off small particles that are stuck to the rotor, without the need to disassemble the gear train. If a large particle is jammed in the gear train, disassembly may be reqiured. Most movements stop running because of dry and dirty oils in the pivot holes, not because small particles are stuck to the rotor.

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The cost of cleaning a $ movement will vary with the type of "Quartz Clean" Kit you are using. The Propellant Kit, QC-250P has an average cleaning cost of about 21 cents per movement. The Compressor Kits, QC150C & 650C, average cleaning cost is only 8 cents per movement.

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TIME LOCKS David A. Christianson, CMW, CMBHI

Copyright ©1992

Sargent & Greenleaf Timelock Movements

Part IV

S & G "NEW" MODEL TIMELOCKS

What started out as a short series of articles to introduce the watchmaker to the fascinat

ing world of safe and vault timelock movements has evolved into a major research project that verges on the edge of an obsession as more and more movements come to light.

Vecy little has been written and published on the identification and servicing of timelock move-

Figure 1. The Series 6300 Sargent & Greenleaf tlmelock case and its unlocking mechanism with three movements.


ments. What little has been written has remained within the purview of the safe and vault technician who serviced the many movements on a daily basis.

The need for documenting service information on these varied movements is certainly called for.

In the 15 plus articles that I have written on the subject for the Horological Times, the vast majority of information presented has come from movements that have come to my bench for servicing. However, once in a great while someone knowledgeable on the subject will call or write with additional material that should be preserved for the watchmaker's reference.

Such is the case with Mr. Daniel M. Graffeo, a professional watchmaker and President of Timemasters, Inc., a Topeka, Kansas firm that specializes in the repair, servicing, restoration, and supplying of timelock mechanisms, as well as providing training and educational services to the safe and vault indus-tcy.

Mr. Graffeo graciously sent additional information on the Sargent & Greenleaf new model timelock movements to update and enhance that which was reported in the June 1991 issue of the Horological Times (S & G Timelock Movements, Part II).

Thevecy latest standard timelock movements used by Sargent & Greenleaf (Nicholasville, KY) are the new model, small type Swiss movements shown in Figures 2 and 3. Both movements are used in timelock cases similar to the one in Figure 1.

Figures 2A and 2B show the Style "R" movement, manufactured by Relhor SA. Figures 3A and

Figure 2A. S & G new model Style "R" movement by Relhor SA in the lathe 1970s.

Figure 2B. Side view of the Style "R" movement.

3B show the Style "S" timelock movement, manufactured by Sonceboz SA for Sargent & Greenleaf. The Style "R" Relhor movement was made in the late 1970s and then replaced by the Style "S" Sonceboz movement in the late 1980s. Both movements are identical except for different platform escapements (see Figures 8, 9, and 10).

Both movements have available an arrangement on its third wheel that makes it "backwindable." In our example the Relhor Style "R" movement is "backwindable" with its third wheel clutch. Our

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Sonceboz Style "S" has a standard third wheel that makes it "non-backwindable," although the third wheel clutch is available for this movement also.

The "backwindable" feature of these two Swiss movements is an advantage over other timelock movements. The clutch on the third wheel (Figure 5) allows the user to "backwind" or turn the winding arbor backwards in order to remove an overwind on the mainspring. In other words, if the user mistakingly sets (or winds) the movement to open in 20 hours and then realizes it needs to open in 18 hours, he merely winds the mainspring arbor backwards or "backwinds" the movement to indicate 18 hours

Figure 3A. S & G new model Style "S" by Sonceboz SA in 1990.

Figure 3B. Side view of the Style "S".


instead of 20.

SERVICING THE "BACKWINDABLE" 'IHIRD WHEEL The "backwindable" third wheel (Figure 5) must NEVER be cleaned in an ultrasonic bath, but MUST be disassembled, hand-cleaned, and then the clutch re-adjusted to retain its original torque. Any trace of oil or cleaning solution will render this wheel useless because once a force from the mainspring is applied, the wheel will immediately slip, causing the main-

Figure 4. New model movement with dial and cover removed and escapement exposed.

Figure 5. A closer view of the third wheel clutch designed to allow the user "backwind" or turn the winding arbor backward to remove an overwind on the mainspring.

Figure 6. Removing the escapement platform (retaining screws are under the bottom plate) while holding back the train with fingers.

spring to unwind and rendering the total movement useless.

TO REMOVE AN OVERWIND If any of the movements in a timelock are accidentally wound further than the desired opening time, the vault will open later than wanted. If t~s is going to be a problem, this overwind condition must be removed BEFORE the vault is locked up for the night.

TO REMOVE AN OVERWIND ON THE "NON-BACKWINDABLE" MODELS To remove an overwind on the "non-backwindable" new style S & G movements, simply hold back the main train of wheels with your thumb and forefinger as in Figure 6, or block the train with Rodico. Remove the platform escapement and allow the train to run down by releasing power by braking your thumb against the fifth wheel until the train runs down and the dial pin stops any further release of power (i.e., the dial indicates zero or less) (Figure 7). Replace the platform escapement and wind to the proper opening time.

TO REMOVE AN OVERWIND ON THE "BACKWINDABLE" MODELS To remove an overwind on the Style "R" and "S" backwindable movements, simply "backwind" the movement below the desired opening time and then rewind to the proper opening time.

RESERVE POWER Reserve power is that amount of extra power that remains on the mainspring after the timelock movement has come to a complete stop (reached zero hours setting). One might call it a "pre-wind" on the

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Figure 7. The dial indicates less than zero running time. At this position a stop pin under the dial engages a pin on the upper plate and the movement stops running, although there is still power on the mainspring.

mainspring that remains in reserve while the movement is at rest.

The purpose of reserve power (required for all timelock movements) is two-fold:

( 1) It allows the movement to start running as soon as the user starts to wind it.

(2) It provides the exact power needed to sustain the unlocking mechanism of the timelock as the movement approaches zero hours. The strain placed on the timelock movment by the timelock mechanism during unlocking is tremendous and requires additional mainspring reserve power to keep the movement running during the unlocking cycle of the timelock. This unlocking cycle can last up to three hours depending on the timelock mechanism used.

APPLYING RESERVE POWER TO THE S & G NEW MODEL MOVEMENTS The preferred method of applying reserve power to the new model S & G movements is provided by Dan Graffeo of Timemasters, Inc.

1. With the movement completely assembled and lubricated (less the platform escapement), block


Figure 8. Style "R" movement. Note the "backwindable" third wheel and close similarity with Style "S" in Figure 9.

the fifth wheel with your thumb or with Rodico. 2. Wind the movement up completely. While

holding back on the let-down key, remove the block and allow the winding arbor to rotate one-half a tum; block the fifth wheel again to retard further wind down.

3. Install the display wheel (dial) in such a manner as to allow the maximum hours to show under the indicator.

4. While holding back on the let-down key, remove the block from the fifth wheel. Under control of the let-down key, allow the movement to unwind slowly. The display wheel (dial) will stop the gear train action once the stop pin on the display wheel gear engages the stop pin on the top plate. This method allows for maximum reserve. Each movement manufacturer uses a different mainspring length. Some S & G timelock movements will end up with four full turns, while others will end up with close to seven full turns. This method does not consider which mainspring is used, simply that full reserve is available.

Figure 9. Style "S" movement. Note the lack of a backwindable third wheel but a close similarity with the Style "R" in Figure 8.

SARGENT & GREENLEAF PLATFORM ESCAPEMENTS

Style ·s·

Copyright: TIMEMASTERS, INC.1990

Figure 10. Platform escapements used on the Relhor and Sonceboz movements. Both movements appear to be identical except for the platform escapements used. This illustration has been used with the kind permission of Mr. Dan Graffeo of Timemasters, Inc.

D

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SHOPTALK Wes Door, CMW

How to Start and Manage a Business Part VIII

Non-Expansion Band Inventory

Non-expansion bands are used on most new wat.ches on the market, so their replacement is an impor

tant segment of our inventory. Last month we discussed expansion bands, so today we will talk about all other types. This includes metal bands, leather straps, etc., thus our title "non-expansion."

NON-EXPANSION METAL BANDS Actually, when customers think in terms of metal bands, they will say they want a "stretch" band (expansion) or "one like the original" which generally means a nonexpansion metal band with a clasp or fold-over centerpiece of some type.

Many customers seem to think that the original band style is the only one suitable for their watch and they hesitate to make a change. For these customers we must stock the exact genuine factory-made band or occasionally a very close facsimile will do. Sometimes it is difficult to get the genuine factory replacement as the

Figure 1

A B c


factory may have already discontinued making this band or it may not be readily available. Also, it will be more expensive than a similar generic substitute. It is hard for the customer (and even difficult for us) to realize that the replacement band has such a large price tag compared to the cost of the complete watch. The replacement movement may cost much less than the band.

Since we know a large number of generic bands are sold, we must consider this as we place our initial band order. We must also consider that we will acquire a certain number of these original bands from those who prefer we sell them an expansion band with their new watch purchased from us, and credit them with a reasonable trade-in allowance for the non-expansion band that came on the new watch.

Our personal experience has shown that only a small percent of our metal band inventory purchases need to be non-expansion. We acquire most of our non-

L:;=:j-b

D E

expansion stock as new band trade-ins, as mentioned earlier.

Figure 1 shows five different band styles and widths. Figure lA, B, and Care ladies' and D andE show men's bands. A few of each of these bands in white, yellow, and two-tone will give us a good inventory. Maybe we should decide to stock only two of each and then reorder stronger in those numbers that our future experience shows to be the best sellers.

BANDWIDTH The width of most band endpieces (if not self-adjusting) may be adjusted by cutting the ends to fit. Also, notice the two different endpieces shown in Figure lE. Endpiece "a" is a straight-end type and "b" is a curved end piece. Unfortunately both of these do not come with each band. We can sometimes interchange these, if we have considered this possibility, and buy styles that will interchange. The curved endpiece (shown at "b") is made to give a factory-like, built-in look. The straight endpiece (shown at "a") will function just as well; however, it will leave an open space between the case lugs and the band. Sometimes a customer wants this original built-in look and it is hard to convince them that this open style will actually fit their watch. Even if we have the endpiece shown at "b", it must be quite exact; if not, we may need to order a genuine factory-made band.

BAND LENGTH These bands generally come long enough so that we only have to shorten them by removing links or adjusting the length in the center clasp area. If they are too short we may be able to add a clasp extender made for this purpose. If not, we need to order extra links for these bands. It is important to know in advance if these are going to be available to us. Our suppliers should be able to give us this needed service, and most of them will.

LEATHER STRAPS The last type of bands to select for our inventory are leather, plastic, nylon, etc.

Leather bands used to be sold when a customer couldn't afford a metal band since they were thought of as being low priced. This is not necessarily so today. Some leather bands are higher priced than some metal bands, and some very nice watches come with leather bands (straps). We need a fair number of these in various widths, lengths, colors, and styles. Most companies have some nice pre-selected assortments. It is well to tie in with a company and stock a reasonable amount, listening to their experienced recommendations. Of course we need to be sure we really like their styles; if not, we should override them with our own choices. I would be careful of white straps and suede straps, but if you decide on these, I have some old stock that I would

(Please tum to page 19)

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ASSOCIATION NEWS I

TEXAS The Texas Watchmaker's Association held their first 1992 quarterly Board of Directors meeting on February 2, 1992 in Austin, TX. The main topic of discussion was the progress made on plans for the annual TWA convention that will be held in May 1992.

Members in attendance praised A WI Central for their participation in providing bench courses. The most recent course was held in Austin on January 25-26, 1992. Nine students participated in the 400-Day Clock Repair course which was instructed by John A. Nagle.

Pictured, left to right: (seated) John A. Nagle, instructor; (front row) Wynn Taube, Purdis Medlin, Nino Gonzales; (back row) John Plume, Bill Zukauckas, Jay Johnson, Ron Davidson, Mark Hadrick, and Eugene Kramer.

VIRGINIA Robert Drauker, a Richmond clockmaker, is producing a reproduction of a 1915 Sauer's Flavorings Extracts Commemorative Clock. He hopes to produce 1000 handmade and numbered clocks.

An A WI Advanced Clock Repair course was heldinAlexandria, VAonJanuary 17-20. It was very well attended with approximately 65 participants (many from HAM).

The George McNeil's Potomac Guild met on January 7, 1992 at the Steak and Ale in Vienna, VA. Their speaker was Bill Fox who spoke on the topic of "Watch Escapements and How to Adjust Them." At their February 4, 1992 meeting, Bill Pritchard spoke on the subject of the Julian Calendar and the clock with square wheels.

The Northern Virginia Watchmakers Guild met at the Western Steer Steak House in Steven City, VAonFebruary4, 1992. Theelectionfor 1992-1993 was held. A program entitled "Common Problems in Watchmaking" was enjoyed by all.


UPCOMING CONVENTIONS

April 3-5, 1992 Virginia Jewelers Association

and The Horological Association of Virginia

Annual Convention Embassy Suites Hotel -- Richmond, VA

Msy B-10, 1992 North Carolina Watchmaker's Association

Annual Convention Hampton Inn -- Morehead City, NC

May 16-17, 1992 Arizona Clockmakers & Watchmakers Guild

Annual Convention Las Campanas Quality Inn -- Cottonwood, AZ

May 22-24, 1992 Texas Watchmakers Association

45th Annual Convention Wyndham Hotel at Southpark -- Austin, TX

October 3-4, 1992 Watchmakers Association of Pennsylvania

Annual Convention Penn State University Campus -- State College, PA

October 23-25, 1992 Florida State Watchmakers Association

Annual Convention Howard Johnson Hotel -- Daytona Beach, FL

October 23-25, 1992 Illinois Watchmakers

16th Annual Convention Keller Convention Center -- Effingham, IL

INDIANA The Horological Association of Indiana will hold their 1992 Spring Workshop on Sunday, April 26, 1992 at the Best Western East Motel, 1-70 at Post Road, Indianapolis, IN.

Two hands-on, classroom style seminars will be featured. For the watchmaker, "ETA 251 Series Quartz Chronograph" will be presented by Dan Fenwick, Technical Director of the Swiss Watch Technical Center. The seminar for clockmakers will be "The Hermie #340-020" (spring-driven, Westminster chime with balance wheel) instructed by Bill and Tom Moore, of Indianapolis.

For information contact Sally Jo Alexander, HAI Business Manager, 208 Alcott Road, Louisville, KY 40207; (502) 895-0026 (evenings only). D

SHOPTALK (Continued from page 17)

like to talk to you about. Since it is generally not practical to trim the

ends down to fit a narrower lug, it is necessary to purchase these leather bands in the proper widths. Widths must fit between the watch case lugs which (in my day) were all measured in inches. Most all new watches (and straps to fit) are now measured in millimeters in the metric system. Figure 2 is a chart which I developed for this article which may help. There are lots of old watches needing bands and we may even need to

FIGURE2

A. INCHES 1/4 5/6 3/8 7/16 1/2

B. M.M. 6.35 7.94 9.53 11.11 12.7

C. APPROX. 6 8 9-1/2 11 13

M.M.

9/16

14.29

14

convert not only inches to millimeters, but millimeters back to inches. Notice Figure 2, line A shows fraction of inches, line B shows millimeters to correspond, and line C shows a more useable approximate millimeter equivalent.

I hope this information will help those just starting. I was told years ago that watch bands are an important part ofour business and they really are. Some customers are willing to buy a new one, once in a while, which makes it a profitable part of our business.

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Technically

WATCHES©'•·· Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, CMBHI

(All rights reserved by the author)

Antique Watch Restoration 6'1992

PARTLXXVI

REPLACING JEWELS IN ANTIQUE WATCHES

J eweled watches made before 1930 have bezel has a ledge cut around its upper end for the heads of type jewels. It was around 1930 that friction the jewel screws to rest against to hold the setting

jewels were developed. tightly against its seat in the hole. The plate is not When restoring antique watches havingjew- countersunk for the screw heads. The screw heads

els which were made before 1930, one should use the tighten against the ledge on the setting just before bezel method of replacing the damaged or missing they touch the top of the plate. Note that this setting jewels. In other words, one should replace the dam- has been stripped out with a straight stripper so the aged jewel using the same method that was used in jewel can be viewed. making the watch originally. Whenever possible, the The raised setting shown in View B, Figure 1 replacement jewel should be the same shape and is usually used in high grade watches and is most color as the original jewel. The object is to restore the often made of gold. The setting and watch plate have watch as much like original as possible. both been countersunk to allow the jewel screw

METHODS USED IN JEWELING TRAIN WHEELS The following methods have been used to install bezel jewels into watch plates, bridges, and cocks: A. Bezeling the jewel into a setting and fastening

the setting against a shoulder in the hole in the plate with two or three jewel screws.

B. Bezeling the jewel into a setting and bezeling the setting into the watch plate against a shoulder in the plate.

C. Bezeling the jewel into a setting and frictioning the setting into a straight hole in the plate.

D. Bezeling the jewel directly into the watch plate from the inside of the plate.

E. Bezeling the jewel directly into the watch plate from the outside of the plate.

These methods will be discussed in the order listed.

STYLESOFJEWELSE'M'INGS Figure 1 shows two styles of jewel settings called raised settings. As can be seen, the jewels are bezeled into the settings. This style of jewel setting was used on the upper pfates and bridges around the center wheel pivot and fusee arbor pivot as well as for cap jewels. The raised setting allows for a thicker jewel that is needed for larger longer pivots such as center and fusee pivots. These settings are usually held into a hole in the plate or bridge by three screws. The settings seat against a shoulder in the hole in the plate. The setting that is shown in View A, Figure 1


heads to be set flush with the top of the plate. This setting has been stripped out with a curved stripper so the jewel can be viewed. This style of jewel setting was used by the Waltham Watch Company in some of their highest grade movements, one being their 18 size 845 model. This model has this style of upper center jewel setting and upper balance cap jewel setting. The E. Howard Watch Company also used this style of jewel settings in some of their watch movements.

The most common style of jewel setting that is held in with screws is one which is flush with the top of the watch plate. This style is shown in Figure 2, View A. The jewel screw heads are countersunk so

Figure 1

A

B

A

c

they are flush With the top of the plate. These settings are usually held in place by two jewel screws. Center jewel settings are sometimes held in with three jewel screws. This is due to their larger size and the extra pressure they receive from the power of the mainspring.

The next most common jewel setting used in American watches is the bezeled-in setting. This is shown in ViewB, Figure 2. The jewel is bezeled into the setting and the setting is bezeled into the watch plate from the outside of the plate. This style of setting is used on the lower watch plate only. Settings which are held in With screws are used mainly on the upper plates and bridges of the watch. This is because these settings are seen more than the lower settings. About the only exception to this rule is that cap jewel settings are held in With screws under the dial on the lower plate.

Another style of jewel setting which has been used in American watches is a setting which frictions into a straight hole in the watch plate or bridge. This is shown in View C, Figure 2. The advantage of this style of jewel setting is that it is easier to make since it does not have a shoulder and is not held in with screws or a bezel. Another advantage is that the setting can be adjusted up or down in the plate or bridge to adjust the endshake of the wheel that it supports.

BEZELING JEWELS INTO WATCH PLATES Another method of mounting watch jewels is shown in Figure 3. With this method, there are no jewel settings, the jewels are bezeled directly into the watch plate or bridge. View A. Figure 3 shows a jewel that has been bezeled into the watch plate from the inside of the plate. This jewel is set in the same manner as one would set a jewel in the end of a rod.

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The ancient art of hand crafting cloisonne clocks has been revived by the Peoples Republic of China. Cloisonne itself is enamelwork in designs separated in colored patterns by 1hin brass bands. The enamel is hand applied and fired layer-by-layer for the different designs, textures and colors. Because all of the work is by hand, every clock is an individual and differentfrom any other. Each is a craftsmans masterpiece individualized by its excellence (and flaws) and is regarded as a work of art first and a timepiece second. 10 other designs are also available, with prices ranging from $62.50 to $145.00.

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Figure 3

A

8

Figure 4

A c

D= A-(8+ C)

Figure 5

- --~~ • : :i

· _>=i ...._I ______ _

. _, ---- B


If the jewel is set correctly, the job will have a nice appearance. This type of jeweling is used on both the upper and lower plates and bridges and, at one time or another, this style of jeweling was done universally on jeweled watches.

View B, Figure 3 shows a jewel that has been bezeled directly into the watch plate, but this time from the outside of the plate. The jewel is seated on a ledge in the hole of the plate. This style of jeweling is used on the lower plate only. The advantage of this method is that the depth of the ledges can be predetermined for proper endshake for the wheel before the jewels are bezeled in.

OBTAINING MEASUREMENTS FOR A MISSING 'IRAIN JEWEL SETTING Figure 4 shows how measurements can be obtained from a watch when a train jewel setting is missing from the watch and needs to be remade. The diameter of the setting and the diameter of the shoulder of the setting can be gotten by the use of an accurate Vernier caliper which can measure inside diameters, or plug gauges can be made from brass rod by turning down the diameter of the rod to fit the hole for the jewel setting. Then the rod is measured to obtain the dimension. The most critical measurement is the distance D in Figure 4. This is the distance from the jewel end of the setting to the shoulder on the setting, assuming that the jewel is set flush with the end of the setting. This distance determines the endshake of the pinion working in this set of jewels. If the distance is too great, there will not be sufficient endshake on the pinion. On the other hand, if the distance is too little, the endshake will be too much.

To obtain measurement A, one would measure the plates from the outside of one plate to the outside of the other plate near the hole with the missing setting. Then measure the depth of the seat in the hole which has the missing setting. Now subtract the latter measurement from the former measurement. The difference equals measurement A.

Measurement B is obtained by measuring the thickness of the plate holding the good jewel. This measurement is assuming that the good jewel is flush with the plate. If this jewel is set below flush with the plate, measurement A would be the thickness of the plate minus the distance the jewel is set below flush with the plate. Measurement C equals the distance from shoulder to shoulder on the pin-ion.

The formula for determining distance D is: D = A - (B + C). Example: A = 6.00mm

B = c = D =

Then: D = D = D =

l.50mm 4.00mm x 6.00 (1.50 + 4.00) 6.00 5.50 .50

This would mean that the distance from the end

of the setting to the shoulder should be .50mm less .04mm for endshake on the pinion; therefore, the shoulder would be cut back on the setting to .46mm from the end of the setting.

SEITING THE JEWEL IN THE PROCESS OF MAKING THE MISSING JEWEL SEITING One would first select the proper jewel. Then to set the jewel one would select the rod from which the setting will be made. In this case, it should be of the same type and color of material that was used for the other settings in the watch. Brass is usually used for low and medium grade watches, and a gold alloy is used for high grade watches. The diameter of the rod should be slightly larger than the outside diameter of the finished setting. This is to allow for truing up the outside diameter of the setting and to bring it true with the jewel hole. Then the rod is chucked true in a wire chuck in the lathe. The rod should extend from the chuck far enough to allow the setting to be made without disturbing the rod in the chuck during the process of making the setting. Now the rod is faced flat and smooth on its end. Then a sharp pointed graver is used to spot a center for guiding the point of the drill for drilling the hole for the jewel. The drill used should be about 3 I 4 the diameter of the jewel. Drill the hole so it is deeper than the length of the setting.

Next the seat is cut in the end of the rod for the jewel. This is shown being done in Figure 5. The tool used to cut the seat for the jewel is called a seating tool. The seating tool can have an angular point as shown or a square point. The shape of the point is somewhat influenced by the shape of the top of the jewel. When using the seating tool, the lathe should be turning clockwise when viewed from the chuck end of the headstock. View A, Figure 5 shows the seat being cut and View B shows the jewel being tried in the hole for fit. A pointed pegwood is used in the jewel hole to handle the jewel during the fitting process. The jewel should be a close but free fit in its hole. If the jewel fits in the hole too tightly, it may become wedged in the hole out of flat and not level up when it is burnished into the hole. The seat for the jewel should be deep enough to allow the jewel to be flush or slightly below flush with the end of the rod.

After the seat has been cut for the jewel, the bezel groove is cut. This is shown being done in Figure 6. The bezel cutter is used for this operation. NOTE: The jewel should not be in the hole when the bezel is cut. The lathe is turned clockwise for this operation. The depth of the groove should be .50 to .60mm. This would somewhat depend on the size of the bevel on the edge of the jewel. The width of the top of the bezel should be about .20mm.

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After the bezel has been cut, the hole is cleaned out with a watchmakers blower to remove any chips or shavings from the hole. Then the jewel is moistened with oil and placed in the hole in the rod. The purpose of the oil is to keep the jewel from flying out of the hole while the bezel is burnished over on the edge of the jewel.

Next a pointed pegwood is used on the face of the jewel while the lathe is turning slowly to level up the jewel. This is shown being done in Figure 7. The pegwood is supported on the T-rest while this opera-

Figure 6

Figure 8


tion is being done. One can tell when the jewel is running flat by watching the reflection of the T-rest on the face of the jewel. If the reflection remains still while the lathe is turning slowly, the jewel is running flat. On the other hand, if the reflection moves, the jewel is out of flat in the hole and must be leveled with the pegwood.

After the jewel has been made to run true, the bezel is burnished over onto the edge of the jewel. This is shown in Figure 8. The face of the bezel burnisher should be rounded and highly polished

Figure 7

Figure 9

and should be oiled before it is used. The point of the bezel burnisher should be sharp enough to go into the bezel groove. The angle on the face of the burnisher should cause the bezel to be burnished over onto the edge of the jewel as the burnisher is pushed straight into the bezel groove. After the bezel has been burnished over and the jewel checked for tightness, a smooth polished graver is used to face off the end of the rod flat and flush with the face of the jewel. This operation removes any burrs created by the bezel burnisher.

Next the jewel is checked to see if its hole runs true. Figure 9 shows this being done. To check the hole, a pointed pegwood is placed loosely in the jewel hole and supported on the T-rest. As the lathe is turning slowly, the blunt end of the pegwood is observed to see if it has any up and down movement. If the blunt end of the pegwood remains still, the jewel hole runs true which means that the setting can be turned down in diameter before being cut off of the rod. This is shown in View A, Figure 10. On the other hand, if the jewel hole doesn't run true, the setting is removed from the rod without cutting the outside diameter down. Then the setting is cemented up on a cement brass so the jewel runs true before turning the setting down. This is shown in View B, Figure 10.

The other operations needed to complete this setting will be shown next month. O

CEMENT BRASS

Figure 10

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JEWELRY CRAFTING AND REPAIR About Solder, Flux, and Pickle

A !though I have discussed soldering in previous articles, inquiries keep coming in with questions

pertaining to soldering, so this article will be devoted to that subject--which happens to be one of my favorites.

All my knowledge comes from experience starting when at 14 years of age I was doing acetyline-oxygen welding on steel while working in a small factory after school and on Saturdays. Over the years since then, I have done soldering, welding, and brazing in making a living as well as in my hobbies.

A large percentage of jewelry crafting and repair work requires the bonding of metals together, so it is well to know all we can about it in order to properly solder metals. The words solder, brazing, welding, flux, and pickle will be used, so they should each be explained.

Solder is a term used when bonding two pieces of metal together using a metal with a lower melting point than the metal being bonded together. There are two general classifications of solders: hard solder and soft solder. Soft solder is usually made from low melting lead and other low melting metals; it can be applied with a soldering iron or a moderate temperature torch, such as natural gas, propane, or butane. It can be used on low melting materials such as pewter, or even on high temperature melting materials where a weaker bond will suffice.

Hard solder is available in many materials such as gold, silver, brass, or nickel. Gold solder is available in low karat, 10 karat, 14 karat, and 18 karat, in white or yellow, in easy, medium, or hard flow. Hard sold er requires much more heat than soft solder, so torches using oxygen and combustible gasses produce much more heat than the gasses mixed with air. Manufacturers list the melt and flow temperatures for each different solder, but without a pyrometer it would be impractical for us as jewelry craftsmen to use, so other comparisons can be used. By watching applied solder when heated, you can see it first melt and usually form a small ball, and as the metal gets hotter it will flow. With hard solders usually metals used for jewelry will have to get red hot for the solder to melt and flow. Solder, when melted, will flow toward the point in the metal being soldered that is the hottest; in other words, as solder follows heat, it can be pulled by moving the heat.

Brazing is just another term for soldering, al-


though it is a name used when bonding together ferrous metals (iron and steel) using brass for the solder. As brass will melt and flow at a lower temperature than steel or iron, it can be applied to make a strong bond. As brazing with brass leaves a yellow metal bond, nickel silver can be used in place of brass as it has nearly the same melting properties as brass. It will leave a white-colored bond.

Welding is a term used when metal is bonded together with metal that has about the same melting temperature as the metal being joined. Welding can be done using an oxygen-acetyline torch or with the electric arc method. Blacksmith welding was done using a forge and coal as a fuel with a forced draft of air to make a hot enough bed of coals to melt cast iron or steel. Two pieces of steel can be heated white hot, put together, and hammered to make one piece. This is a blacksmith weld. We usually see solder listed in our suppliers' catalogs, as welding solder with the other karat gold solders. It is higher in gold content and the melt and flow temperature is about 300 degrees hotter than with easy flow solder. This is still a little under the melt temperature of the metal that we are working, so if jewelry is assembled with welding solder, then later if a repair is needed dose to a welded joint it can be made with easy flow solder with no danger of having the original weld damaged or opened.

Flux is a term that is used frequently in instructions for crafting or repairing jewelry. Flux used in soldering and welding is an anti-oxidizer. This prevents oxides from forming from the oxygen in the air when heat is applied to flow the solder.

The first flux that I learned to use when studying jewelry repair was just plain borax. It was prepared in a borax slate which was about 3-1/2 inches square by 3/4 inch thick, with a concave depression about 3 I 8 inch deep in the center of the slate. Borax can be obtained in cakes or a cone, and when rubbed in the depression of the slate powders and with water added it can be applied to the surfaces that are to be soldered. This is done with a flux brush, which was originally called a borax brush because borax was the primary flux used in this manner.

The next flux that I learned about was one called Eurema, which was probably mostly used by retail jewelers, but it was removed from the market several years ago. I have heard that the removal was caused because it

contained cyanide and was considered too dangerous to be on the open market. There are several other fluxes that are available through your material supplier. The one hard solder flux that I have settled on as being the best for me is Battems for nonferrous metals, and Aircosil for hard soldering ferrous metals or soldering nonferrous to ferrous metals. With this, hard solder can even be applied to stainless steel. Even though these fluxes are liquids or pastes, their primary ingredient is usually borax.

For soft soldering, different fluxes are used which do not contain borax. For regular soft soldering, a flux made of hydrochloric (muriatic) acid and zinc or zinc chloride can be purchased and diluted with water to make a good flux. Available at almost any hardware store can be found soft solder fluxes that are excellent for general use, but acid type fluxes should NEVER be used when soldering any electrical connection. A solder paste can also be purchased at any hardware store or electrical supplier which works well with soft (lead type) solder. When using a soldering iron, keep the tip thinly coated with solder. This can be done by fluxing, touching the solder to it, and wiping with a damp cotton cloth. This is referred to as tinning the iron.

Pickle is a term used for the solution and application to nonferrous items being prepared to solder. It is also used to remove flux after the solder joint is made. The old standard pickling solution used by jewelry craftsmen has been sulphuric acid prepared in the following manner: a solution of 20 parts concentrated sulphuric acid and 80 parts water if the solution is to be used cold (room temperature). If used hot, the solution should be 10 parts sulphuric acid and 90 parts water. In preparing this solution, always pour the acid in the water. NEVER pour water in concentrated acid, for it will splatter and possibly cause injury to the person or the property around it. If any concentrated acid comes in contact with the skin or eyes, immediately flush with plenty of water. Any acid usedinjewelrycraftingsuchassulphuric,nitric,orhydrochloric is dangerous to handle. Learn to handle it correctly and it will never be a problem.

One way to lessen the danger of using sulphuric acid pickling solution is to use a prepared pickle that comes in a powder and is an acid salt that can be mixed with water which will perform the same cleaning and removing process as does the acid pickle, and it is almost completely safe. This can be used either hot or cold, but when used cold the article must be soaked longer than when used hot. A good inexpensive way to use this is to have a pickle pan that can be filled with pickling solution and be boiled over the torch, then emptied and dipped in water to rinse off the pickle. This is quick and eliminates any soaking.

An ideal situation would be when enough work is being produced in a shop to warrant keeping hot pickling solution on hand during working hours. Thermostatically controlled pickle pots can be purchased from your material and tool supplier. However, an even less expensive way is to go to the local small appliance store and for $10-15 an electric crackpot can be purchased which will work excellently for keeping hot pickling solution. Sulphu-

The new QTM 901 is the most complete diagnostic test meter on the market. It is designed by a watchmaker, for a watchmaker, and is watchmaker affordable. The QTM 901 tests:

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It has a variable voltage power supply, is easy to use (one 7-position switch), and video tapes are available for demonstrations. Available from most material supply houses.

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ric acid pickle or pickles made for nonferrous metals should be used only on nonferrous metals because they will dissolve steel or iron alloys. It's true that if the metal is in contact with the pickle for even a short time, the metal will not actually dissolve but can become pitted or some damage result.

For brass, copper, nickel, silver, gold, or alloys of any of these metals that have become tarnished (probably oxidized), they can be boiled in the pickle or soaked for a short time in the hot, then a longer time in the cold. Then they can be rinsed, and then deaned with a bronze wire brush wheel on the polishing motor while still wet. If this is done before soldering, it gives a dean surface to flux and solder.

Since I am working on a semi-retired basis, not enough time is spent each day to warrant a pickle pot, so I use the pan method and boil in pickle. Before starting work on items that are dirty (like engagement rings that have a buildup of soap detergents under the stones), I first boil them in pickle, then put them through the ultrasonic tank, rinse, and then they are usually clean and ready for work. On extreme occasions, even this must be repeated. Even this crud found under stones can be quite difficult to completely remove; if left on and heat applied, it can bum and leave a residue that is nearly impossible to remove. It is better to prepare the work before starting than to have to clean a real time-consuming mess of charred substance that is burned on the underside of the stones and crevices in the ring.

Knowledge and understanding is so necessary in being successful in most anything we do, especially jewelry crafting and repair. There is probably a limit to how much knowledge is necessary. In the preceding article I have stayed away from chemical formulas, temperatures, and details that in the scope of my experience, even though good to know, are not needed to do good jewelry work.

Shielding is another important procedure that can be used very effectively when applying heat in many soldering operations. When a piece of jewelry requiring heat contains stones or enamels that can be damaged by heat, it is wise to shield them. This can be done with several methods: wrapping in wet tissue, covering the parts needing protection from heat in wet sand, or using one of many commercial heat-shielding materials. In using these, there is a limit to how much heat can be applied without reaching the protected area, so good judgement must be used. Shielding against oxidation can be done by using borax or boric acid dissolved in alcohol. The entire piece can be dipped in this solution, the alcohol ignited and burned off, leaving a coating of borax or boric acid, which keeps the air away from the work surrounding the surface to be soldered, thus preventing oxidation. I prefer to use boric acid because it stays dissolved in the alcohol and does not require stirring before each use. This can be used successfully when soldering plated objects, which saves polishing away oxidation that would polish through the plating, leaving the base metal exposed.

We will continue with this discussion, using some step-by-step application with specific repairs. D


PROJECT EXTEND CLASSES FOR 1992

Contact AWi Central for the general information brochure for Project Extend and specific course brochures for classes that interest you. AWi Central, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211; (513) 661-3838; Fax (513) 661-3131.

April 6-10

May4-8

May 11-15

May 18-22

June 1-5

June 8-12

June 15-19

June20-24

July 6-10

July 13-17

Clock Repair II (advanced)

Roland Iverson

Clock Repair Ill (restoration) David Christianson

Quartz I (beginners) Gerald Jaeger

Quartz II (advanced) Robert Bishop

Watch I (staffing, poising, & timing) James Lubic

Watch Repair II (hairspring vibrating & finishing) Hal Herman

Watch Repair V (pocket watch repair) Archie Perkins

Complicated Watches Antoine Simonin

Clock Repair VI John Nagle

Clock Repair VII John Nagle

Are You Using Your

AWi Identification Mark?

If Not, You Should Be!

ROCK QUARRY

Fred S. Burckhardt

Let's Have Out With It

W"th all the stories and investigations that have taken place over the years concerning various

United States Presidents, how come they overlook one of the most important stories of history? I'm speaking of George Washington's watch. In all the history books and other books written about old George, have you ever read any reference of his watch?

Now let's think about this for a minute. Here was a man, the leader of his country, rather affluent, yet there is never any mention of him looking at his time-piece.

At Valley Forge, does it say that Washington looked at his watch so he knew what time to tell his troops when to expect the British? When he was getting ready to cross the Delaware River, does it say anything about his looking at the time? Quite frankly, anybody who would cross that river on a December morning, freezing cold and as swift as that river is, should have known better to begin with! Besides, there's a bridge about 100 yards away that they could have crossed. But of course, it wouldn't have been as dramatic ...

By the way, have you ever noticed in the artist's rendition of Washington standing in the boat leading his troops across, you can't see any signs of a watch or a watch chain? Was there some kind of conspiracy going on that we were never told about?

Does it ever mention that George went over to Betsy Ross' house to ask her to make the first flag in the morning, afternoon, or at night? Why do they try to cover this up? Is it because George got home late and Martha wanted to know where he was and George said, "Sorry, my watch stopped and I didn't realize what time it was."? After he was elected President, does it say anywhere he called the first Congress to order and said, "Okay, boys, it's 9 o'clock by my watch, so let's get started."?

Why are there many stories about George's false teeth, but nothing about his watch? And why did he have false teeth? Did he have a lousy dentist, or were they pulled out on purpose? Seems strange, doesn't it?

When Washington left office, why didn't they present him with a watch? This is the usual gift for a person that's retiring. Most important of all, why was his monument in Washington, D.C. not completed for

such a long time? Never mind the story they give, what is the real story? Not only that, why is it in the form of an obelisk? Is it some kind of a giant sundial? And how come it's placed between the Capitol Building and Lincoln's Memorial?

Yes, dear hearts, there are a lot of unanswered questions that deserve to be answered. Are there papers locked up in the National Archives that may give answers to these questions? Perhaps there were instructions not to open this material for another 50 years.

Why were we never told about this?

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OHIO WATTS 800-472-0200 NAT WATTS 800-537-0343


BULLETIN BOARD A. NEW REQUESTS

ADVANCE WATCH FROM HONG KONG Jim Stanley, Fort Wayne, IN, observes that most are aware of the Advance Watch which is marketed out of Southfield, Ml; however, he is seeking a Hong Kong watch with the name Advance on its dial and case. There seems to be no relationship between the MI Advance and the Hong Kong Advance watches. Mr. Stanley is seeking the name of the distributor of the Hong Kong variety so he can purchase

_ spare parts and bracelet parts.

VIBROGRAF VIBROSONIC A800 SCHEMATIC Ashley Womble, Marietta, GA, is seeking a schematic for a Vibrograf Vibrosonic ASOO. We will return your copy to you if you will send it for copying.

SEAUBIN CLOCK SimonAllalunis, Pittsburgh, PA, is seeking information on a Swiss-made Seaubin clock. Can anyone name the distributor or service agent in the United States?

SETH THOMAS J.A. MacKinnon, New Lynn, Auckland, New Zealand, submitted the drawing below for identification. He writes: We require urgent pallets and balance complete for old twin barrel Seth Thomas, Thomason Conn, ship's bell or school clock.

LONGINES 1268Z CHRONOGRAPH Elmer Tazuma, Seattle, WA, is seeking spare parts information and hopefully a service bulletin for a Longtnes 1268Z Chronograph. Longtnes in New Rochelle, NY is unable to supply.

B. RESPONSES

CONSORT WATCH Stanley McMahan, Greenville, SC, made us feel very humble. His tip lead us to find "Consort" already in our file


under Quintel/Consort Division, Geneder International bnports, Inc., 44 Century Drive, Wheeling, IL 60090; (708) 541-3333.

LANGENDORF 1241 (GRUEN 91088) ALARM Julian J. Smith, Wareenton, NC, has provided spare parts information for tlie Langendorf calibre 1241 alarm watch. This is also a Gruen 9 lOSS.

C. ITEMS STILL NEEDED

EUROPEAN CLOCK? Steve Makowski, Bluffton, IN, sends two photos and the markings from a clock he has in his shop. He would like to know:

a. the country of origin b. approximate age c. any other information

NO-KEY BATIERY CLOCK Raymond Novak, Muskego, WI, sends these three photos of a clock he has. It was manufactured or marketed by Mountain State Electrical Co., Wheeling, WV. Novak seeks the answers to these questions:

net?

clock?

What voltage is needed to operate the electromag-

How are the points set to energize the magnets? How does the electromagnet system wind the

Is there anything special to look for in servicing the clock?

CAMBRIDGE QUARTZ CLOCK Milo Bresley, Bloomington, MN. is seeking a service agent or distributor who can provide a new movement for a clock he describes as follows:

The clock measures 3-1/8" high, 2-3/16" wide, and 1-15/16" deep. The dial measures 1-3/16" in diameter with Roman numerals anD "Made in England" in the lower circular part of the dial. The face opening is 2-3I16"

~ Gem City College Where Time Can Equal Money

• Watchmaking •Engraving • Clock Repair

•Jewelry • Jewelry Store

Management

700 State

Street

Quincy IL

62301

(217) 222-0391

high and 1-11 /32" wide. The word CAMBRIDGE is approximately 3/8" below the dial numbers.

A rubbing taken from the back of the quartz movement reveals that the movement is German; it also has a lower case "e" in the upper left-hand corner of a capital letter "J" and the number 987. Another rubbing appears as follows:

Not Actual Size

ULYSSE NARDIN BROCHURES&: CATALOGS Marvin E. Whitney, Alexandria, VA, is researching material for articles he is preparing about the famous Ulysse Nardin firm. He is interested in prun-phlets, brochures, and catalogs dealing with watches and chronometers produced by this firm. One catalog in particular was published about 1920 by Bigalke & Eckert Company, 527 Fifth Ave., New York, NY. They were the sole U.S. agent for Ulysse Nardin during that period. A reprint of this catalog is available: however, Mr. Whitney seeks an original for the purpose of reproducing some of the photographs and illustrations. Any materials loaned to Mr. Whitney will receive the special care they deserve and providers will be acknowledged in the finished articles.

Do you have information regarding this month'• requests?

Do you need information about one of this month's responses?

If so, send a self-addre88ed, stamped business-size envelope

and your request to: "Bulletin Board," c/o AWi Central,

3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45211. 0

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NYJ SUPPLY COMPANY

Watch Material, Jewelers Supplies & Accessories 87 Nassau Street • Room 208

New York, NY 10038 (212) BA7-6677


AS A CLOCKMAKER TURNS BY J.M. HUCKABEE, CMC, FBHI

Mandrel Turning, Arbor and Wheel Work

WORKING PIECES ON A MANDREL

M andrel turning is an excellent method for holding many types of small parts for con

struction or alteration. Clocks appear in my shop on a regular basis with bushings overhanging their pivot ends and the plate surface. Aside from the lack of merit in this practice, let's use this example to illustrate the ease and accuracy of mandrel turning. Given a bushing that has proper dimensions, except length, how do we cut it to length? One way is to hold it in a collet and cut away one end. That says we need more collets. The reason I prefer mandrel turning is that it's quick, easy, the piece has a handle, and it can be removed from the lathe readily for a trial fit. Let's try the bushing cutoff by the mandrel tech-nique.

What are the tools? Our last article dealt with a headstock driver device. We will use that fixture plus a small female tailstock center; we will make the mandrel. I make a mandrel of this class from a piece ofl/8 inch diameter brass rod about l-l/2inches

Figure 1. Mandrel turning with a pivot bushing on the right end of the mandrel.


long. Turn a male center on each end. About 1/8 inch from one end, drill a cross-hole that can accept a clock taper pin. We now have the perfect tools for our job.

Let's look at a mandrel turning setup in Figure 1. Note that the bushing is on the extreme right end of the mandrel, almost touching the tailstock center. We are ready to machine away some of the bushing length. What is wrong with the setup? Nothing really; however, it is unduly complex. Our objective is to do the job in a time-efficient manner. Now study Figure 2. This job gives the same high quality results with a very simple setup. On the other hand, it also has a flaw. The bushing should be very close to the tailstock center for best rigidity in cutting. Another caution is that a small mandrel will exhibit a "green-stick-windup" that augments tool chatter. A little experience with this class work will show the techniques that work best.

We will now prepare our mandrel. Our crosspin gives us the mandrel drive; now turn the right end at a slow taper that you can push the bushing

Figure 2. This pivot bushing ls supported on a tapered mandrel.

Figure 3. A wheel hub is worked on a tapered mandrel.

onto tightly. Cut the right end of the bushing only; this keeps it secure on the mandrel. Slack the tailstock and you lift the mandrel, with the bushing, out for measurement. The mandrel now serves as a handle, and no accuracy is lost when it is returned to the lathe. A caliper measurement of bushing length can be made with the bushing on the mandrel; it's great to have the piece on a handle!

Now let's really simplify the mandrel turning job. Place a rod in the lathe with about a half-inch overhang and cut a conical center. Make up the mandrel as before, but without a cross-pin. How do we drive the mandrel? I fold a short piece of transparent tape over the joint-line between the headstock center and the mandrel. Parts that are oil-free work well with most brands of tape. Tapes that hold well are more difficult to remove.

Save your old mandrels. Cut the old end off or rework it in a suitable way.

Now work a larger piece. Figure 3 shows a wheel hub in the making. This piece is in the midregion of a larger tapered mandrel. I work a hub bore to arbor size, then slip it onto a tapered mandrel for the major portion of the work. It is then set onto its own arbor and finishing cuts are made. What is wrong with Figure 3? Remember the need for rigidity? The mandrel should be short and the hub very close to the tails tock center.

Recall that we want every job setup such that it works out perfectly with the greatest ease. Again, in Figure 3, what is the method of driving the mandrel? This is a small collar with a long screw, engaged by a pin in the wood disc. It would be difficult to be more time and tool effective than this! I made up a family of these collars, but recently found a hardware store that has a variety of these that could be bought for less than a half dollar, even with the long screw. Several sizes could adapt well for the clockmaker.

SOME METHODS OF WHEEL WORK For a replacement wheel to run true, it is imperative that its bore and outside diameter are concentric. It

KEY TEST FOR

QUARTZ WATCHES

The "KEY TEST FOR QUARTZ WATCHES" by Ewell Hartman, CMW is a quick and simple method of locating the problem in a quartz analog movement. The only tool required is a meter.

Material and instructions for learning this test are supplied by the AWI-ElM Trust as part of their educational work. There is no charge to any group wishing to learn this test. There are great benefits to learning this in a group setting. However, for individuals who may not be able to participate in a group, it is available to them also.

For more information call or write to the A WI office for an information sheet and application form. 0

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Check our prices, quality, and service on watch and clock cleaning solutions, watch batteries, jewelers' tools, equipment, and wrapping paper, bows, etc. Catalog available on request.

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is folly to assume that this condition exists regardless of the wheel source. In our trade we probably replace more escape wheels than any other type, and these are the most critical.

Figure 4 shows a wheel in a box. This is more commonly called a "pot-chuck" in the machine tool

Figure 4. A wheel turning setup for boring a true center.

Figure 5. Huck bores a wheel hub with a dental burr held in a pin vise.

Figure 6. Arbor, hub, and wheel ready for assembly.


industry. We will take a cut in the wheel bore to achieve our concentricity criteria. The method we will be using will need no explanation or apology as compared to the best tools that money can buy!

Here is how the technique works. I use a small piece of wood, about I /2 inch thick, with a brass rod through a friction-tight hole. Place this in the lathe, true all surfaces, and turn a pocket that the wheel will just slip into under finger pressure. Now the outside diameter of the wheel runs perfectly true; then take a light cut in the wheel bore. All setup tolerances are cancelled and the job is perfect--very simple and time-efficient.

While looking at Figure 4, note that this lathe is painted. No one can tolerate light reflections from a plated lathe when you use it on a sustained basis.

Looking to Figure 5, we have one of my favorite working positions--looking straight into the headstock spindle. Here we have a wheel in a box, and taking a light cut in the wheel bore. This tool bit is a small dental burr held in a pin vise. Roll the burr to clear chips just as you would keep a file in motion on lathe work. From this vantage point we often find it necessary to run the lathe backwards. This work position points out the advantage of a stand-alone lathe and a reversible motor.

WHEEL MOUNTING Turn your attention to Figure 6. We have our wheel with a true bore and a hub that had its final cuts made with the arbor between centers. This one will run true in round and flat if we use a suitable staking technique. We need a bench block with a close-fitting hole and suitable punch. just as with the balance wheel of a watch.

I stack bench blocks, Figure 7, for a good solid base. The wheel hub should stand proud above the wheel by about 0.015 inch, and the hub bore should have a slight chamfer. Stake straight down with just enough force to crush the proud hub into the wheel chamfer. Move halfway around the hub and stake again, then add two more equally spaced

Figure 7. Stake straight down with a flat-faced punch.

Figure 8. Spin between lathe centers to check truth in round and flat.

stakes. Don't wreck the job attempting to stake the total hub area. Inspect the clocks you repair and see how the wheels were originally staked. Overzealous staking can spoil a good wheel.

How is the job? Set it between lathe centers, Figure 8, and give it a spin. You will be amazed how easy it is to get a perfect job using these simple lathe fixtures.

The next article will deal with more hands-on clock repairs that require lathe work. O

AWi MATERIAL SEARCH NETWORK

EDITOR'S NOTE: This column is designed to work in conjunction with the AWi Movement Bank. If you can supply any of the items listed here, please send details to the Material Search Network. Do not send the items. Members requesting these items Will be advised of their availability and will contact you direct.

DD3

DD4

DD5

DD6

DD9

DDll

DD12

Longines 18. 72 coupling clutch, Part #8080.

Longines 18. 72 chronograph runner, Part #8000.

Longtnes 18.72 third wheel, Part #212.

Longtnes 18. 72 mainspring, Part #770.

Seiko case, #6119-6020, inside rotating dial ring (black), Part #8602 9972.

12 size, 19 jewel Gruen balance complete, number under dial 97C4 79, Part #833489.

Tiffany & Co. (Agassiz) 17 jewel barrel arbor, New York, Part #47951.

If you can supply any of these items, please contact: AWi Material Search Network, AWi Central, P .o. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211; Fax (513) 661-3131. 0

BOOKS FROM AWi QUESTIONS &ANSWERS IN QUARlZWATCH REPAIRING-Alice B. Carpenter and Buddy Carpenter. A basic understanding of quartz technology. $12.95

GRUEN WATCHES: A SPECIAL COLLECTION--Robert D. Gruen. A collection of Gruen watches with photos and descriptions. $6.95

BENCH PRACTICES FOR WATCH\CLOCKMAKERS--Henry B. Fried. Hairspring practices, replacing regulator pins, jeweling, and dial repairs. $19.95

MILITARYTIMEPIECES--Marvin E. Whitney. Probablythe most complete compilation on military timepieces to date. $75.00

THE BEST OF J.E. COLEMAN-CLOCKMAKER--Orville R. Hagans. An aid to solving everyday problems in clock repairing.

$30.00

ESSENCE OF CLOCK REPAIR--Sean C. ("Pat") Monk. A practicing clockmaker reveals repairing secrets. $19.95

HOW TO REPAIR HERSCHEDE TUBULAR BELL CLOCKS-Steven G. Conover. A book for the serious clockmaker interested in high quality timepieces. $12.95

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS FOR THE CLOCKMAKING PROFESSION--AWI. Experts answer everyday questions about clockmaking. $14.95

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS FOR THE WATCHMAKING PROFESSION-AWi. Helpful information on repairing watches. $5.95

REPAIRING QUARlZ WATCHES--Henry B. Fried. Includes a basic course in electricity & electronic horology. $22.95

STRIKING CLOCKS--Joseph G. Baier. Ph.D. A hands-on survey for the clockmaker. $7.95

THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER--Marvin E. Whitney. A concise treatise on the fascinating nautical timepiece, for the collector as well as the horologist. $75.00

WATCH & CLOCK INFORMATION, PLEASE--W.H. Samelius. The writing of Samelius edited by 0. R. Hagans. $30.00

THE WATCH ESCAPEMENT--Henry B. Fried. How to analyze, adjust, repair the lever and cylinder, and more. $14.95

THE WATCH REPAIRER'S MANUAL--Henry B. Fried. The newly expanded and updated fourth edition of this popular textbook on watch repair. $27 .00

If you are Interested In any of the above books, please send your order along with a check or money order made payable to AWi Prese. (U.S. Funds only.) Include your name, address, zip code, and phone number and send to: AWi Central, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211.

ALL BOOKS SHIPPED POSTPAID.


BOOK REVIEW

WRISTWATCHES: History of a Century's Development by Kahlert, Muhe, & Brunner. 9"xl2", 397pages,1000+ b&w/color photos. Pub. in English, 1986 by Schiffer Pub., Ltd., @ $79.95.

This six-pound English edition of an earlier German language printing traces the origin of the wristwatch at the turn of the 18th century, its development in the 19th century, and its maturing in this century. While the authors predictably lean heavily on German research materials and advertisements, there are adequate references to Swiss and English watches, and some American products (although admittedly the United States was a comparative latecomer to the manufacture of these smaller watches).

The authors give credit to women working as cashiers, store clerks, in post offices, schools, and health services; they brought the wristwatch in common usage even before WWI. Bicycle riders also popularized the wristwatch, for obvious reasons, although this reviewer remembers that in America there were special handlebar clamps available to hold an Ingersoll pocket timepiece. The story of the German Navy ordering wristwatches from Girard Perregaux in 1880 is retold, but soon after is included the 19-year-oldAchillesDitisheim who produced wristwatches in 1890. Later, the Ditisheim brothers at the advent of the 20th century, enthused with the newly created international language "Esperanto," chose from that source the word that meant "always in movement"--namely, Movado-for their watches.

The Swiss as a neutral nation in WWI_ was producing watches with a new concept in horological engineering, different and not influenced as others who made the new, small watch as miniature pocket watches. By 1920, 7.7 million Swiss watches (or 75.4% of their production) were pocket timepieces, while only 2.5 million were wristwatches (not an inconsiderable amount for that period). Five years later, the ratio was 3 to 1 for pocket watches. By 1934, however, the ratios were reversed, with only 3.2 million pocket watches exported, while wristwatches had a 65.1% ratio advantage. The same trend was reflected in Germany's watch production.

The book's first 125 pages are historical and statistical, while the rest of this large volume is replete with photos, many in full color displaying technological changes in self-winding, water-resisting, shock-resisting, calendric, chronographic services, balance assemblies, jeweling wrist chronometers, alarms, and other complications.

The almost 400 pages cover much. The book's contents list 13 main divisions with 65 subdivisions. Some main topics cover origins; wrist versus pocket watches; technological changes; construction and func-


tion; automatic watches; special types (alarm, watertight, chronograph oomplimtions); the outer form; German wristwatches; collecting wristwatches; sizes, trademarks, and conversion (measuring) tables. This is covered in the opening 145 pages. The remainder are illustrations of all types of watches, from the very early forms to the very recent types.

Modern watches include those to about 1925. From the 30s to the 60s appeared women's "wristwatches," watertight, aviators' and observation watches, automatically wound watches from 1922 to the present, chronographs, calendars, tourbillons, striking (repeater wristwatches), electric, and "other curiosities."

This book is probably the biggest yet published on this subject. It contains a great deal of information with some sprinkling of French, English, and American wristwatches. One problem is that of size. Just where in one's bookcase devoted to wristwatches do you fit a book of this size? Yet it is a welcome six-pound, foot-high source of information.

101 WOODEN CLOCK PATTERNS by Joyce R. Novak, 8"xll", soft covers, 128 pages, numerous photos and drawings. Pub. by Sterling Pub. Co, NY, i990@$12.95.

This is an attractive "how-to" book creating those cutesy flatwood clock dials with quartz fit-up movements. The wooden dials are in various forms created with the aid of a band saw, scroll saw, hand drills, sanders, woodburning "hot" tool, and other simple devices.

Some of the more typical of the 101 subjects are: teddy bear with heart, butterfly, skier, bowling ball and pins, unicorn, football helmet, apple, duck, etc. Some finished clocks are shown in color. The designs are professionally laid out and the photos should make it easy to reproduce for the kitchen, den, or child's room.

MAKING AND REPAIRING WOODEN CWCKCASES byV.J. Taylor and H.A. Babb. Hard covers, 8"xl0-1/2", 191pages,134 illustrations, photos, and drawings. Pub. by David and Charles, first published in 1986@$29.95.

V.J. Taylor is a former editor of the British Woodworker and author of texts on woodworking and clock casemaking. H.A. Babb, although teaching at the Bridgewater College in England's Somerset, still practices fine cabinet-making and clock case restoration.

This book contains accurate drawings of 13 varieties of clock cases which are "guaranteed to be historically authentic throughout." There are exploded views of each type of clock and hood design with accurate dimensions. The workshop techniques are explained in detail. Curved moldings, veneer application, crossbanding, finishing, and the use of traditional skills and techniques are explained. Repairs, refinishing, and the use of adhesives are included, together with other topics on repairing door joints, moldings, veneers, marquetry, inlay, and banding. Repairing ormolu, boulle, and lac-

quer work with finishing and gilding can be found within these pages. Design and boring insects and the treatment for it is explained.

Making a clock case, workshop geometry, and other projects, as well as proper conservation techniques cover some pages with illustrations supplied. All drawings and photos are of a high caliber and professional standard. Also supplied are (British) addresses of brass founders, polishes, waxes, veneers, shells, and gilding materials.

British-American terms are compared. Some are: trestle (sawhorse), paraffin (kerosene), drawing pin (thumbtack), rebate (rabbet), and so on.

For the hobbyist or the ambitious, adventurous clockmaker who'd like to embark on his own clock case restoration, or for the individualjust making an authentic reproduction, this book should help.

ROYAL CLOCKS, THE BRITISH MONARCHY AND ITS TIMEKEEPERS, 1300-1900by Cedric Jagger. Soft covers, 8-3/4"xll ", 340 pages, 400 photos, about halfin color. Pub. by Robert Hale, Ltd., London, 1983. $27 .95.

As the title proclaims, this is a book on all types of timekeepers, clocks, watches, sundials, astrolabes, and it included a few barometers owned by the Royal Family of Great Britain over the period noted. Cedric Jagger is ' a scholarly author whose previous titles include the British horological scene.

This book is no exception to Mr. Jagger's thorough approach. He has included only those clocks andwatches which are in actual possession of the Royal Family, or heavily documented as having belonged to or are on loan from them in museums. The 382 illustrations are mainly guod photographs, many in color showing a wide range of timekeepers. None of ordinary quality exist, reflecting the sophisticated tastes of these monarchs or their advisers whose makers include all the famous names spanning the six centuries.

The wide variety of these clocks and watches also reflect the varied interests and tastes of the progression of kings and queens up to the 20th century. For example, in the very fine index, one can see the difference in preferences and tastes between George ill (1760-1820) and George IV (who reigned from 1820-1830). George ill, in a full column of references, includes such names as Breguet, Berthoud, Arnold, Tompion, Knibb, and Mudge. His successor, George IV, includes names such as Pinchbeck, Congreve, Ra.ingu, Vulliamy, and others more associated with" decorator or eye-arresting items." None, however, are anything but of museum quality and importance.

From this, one perceives that many of these monarchs were rather well informed as to the technologies. Jagger points out quite appropriately that "any kind of contact, however impersonal, between monarch and tradesman might seem, to the traditionalist, to be mutually exclusive, they are at near opposite ends of an extremely long social scale. Yet in Britain, quite close

associations of this kind have been customary for centuries and are well documented, and to this day, carefully nurtured."

The results as shown are very carefully researched in this book as a collection of hundreds of the finest and most unusual clocks and watches. Each is documented and illustrated with thorough descriptions, many with inside views of their movements. Thus, Mr. Jagger is quite careful in the largest section of this book to spend space with each of the items proven to be of Royal provenance.

There is a later long 58-page chapter, "Royal Pretentions--To Be or Not to Be," in which the author warns the reader how to evaluate claims which might be spurious, pretentious, or without positive proof of previous royal ownership. How many of us are besieged by mail or offers of items claiming to have noble or historically prominent provenance? Virtually all fall apart upon careful examination or research. Auctioneers are not always above such practices, that anitem is claimed, or family tradition recounts that."

In the chapter on "Royal Pretentions ... " are many items, some fine enough to stand on their own merit without the warrant of royal provenance. This chapter is an education in horological discernment. In one item, the watch of Charles I shows an illustration of the ill-fated king's watch and another that without very careful examination might pass for the original. Cedric Jagger, however, carefully points out differences and the manner in which the pretender-watch is discovered.

Within its covers are early tower clocks, astrolabes, table, wall, and free-standing clocks and ornamental, musical, precision timekeepers, some encased in Sevres porcelain, some topped with magnificent gilt bronzework. The background of their makers is included. The Vulliamy's reputation for movement replacement is also mentioned and examples shown. Cedric Jagger examines these with the critical eye of a horological Sherlock Holmes. There are year-guing clocks: one by Tompion is mainspring-driven. The Queen Charlotte lever escapement watch by Thomas Mudge and other famous makers from England and the continent are represented.

A welcome feature is the location of an illustration number which locates the text alluding to it directly opposite that text in the white space area opposite the subject text. Also included is an appendix, "Revelant Royal Foundations--The Company and the Observatory." Appendix 2, "Royal Timekeepers in Important Catalogues" describes these with the authors' additional commentary. A third appendix chronicles "The Progressions of Royal Horologists, 1565-1900" from Nicholas Urseau through Randolph Bull, Ramsay, Edward East, Mudge, Perigal, Vulliamy, Arnold and Dent, Frodsham, Bense, and Bennet.

A final appendix lists a selected pertinent bibliography. The 250-odd pages devoted to the royal horological possessions constitutes a very fine exposition of such items, and these facts and events behind each acquisition, pertinent anecdotal incidents concerning


these kings and queens as well as the artisans who made the watches and clocks. It makes for good reading in itself, and is told by a recognized authority who himself is a Liveryman of the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers and Keeper of the Collection.

Horological affectionados should feel gratified that royalty has manifested the same interests.

Henry B. Fried 0

WE'RE INTERESTED

IN YOUR COLOR SLIDES

The American Watchmakers Institute knows that there is a wealth of talent in its membership and that this talent is not only in the field of horology. There is seldom a gathering of a group of watchmakers and clockmakers where a camera is not also there.

Those of you who pride yourself in the beauty of your camera work can possibly participate in having your own picture reproduced on the cover of Horological Times. The covers of Horological Times are reproduced from color transparencies or slides. Remember, the format is scenery or nature and what you submit must be a color slide. Color photos are not acceptable.

If your color slide is used, you will receive an 8-1 /2 x 11 inch color photo. It will be framed and sent to you for your enjoyment.

Mail your color slide with description to: Horological Times, P .o. Box 11O11, Dept. 31, Cincinnati, OH 45211. All slides become the property of the American Watchmakers Institute.


We Salute These New Members! ADAMS, Reginald $.--Buchanan, MI AMMARIN, Rin--Tucson, AZ

Sponsor: Bill Walkling--Tucson, AZ APONTE, Joyeria--Iavonito, PR CASCARELLI, Carmen J.--Philadelphia, PA CAVANAUGH, Brian C.--Chichester, NH

Sponsor: George Garneau--Epsom, NH CHAMBERS, Donald C.--Lafayette, IN

Sponsor: William Heazeltine--Lafayette, IN COCHRANE, Douglas M.--Alexandria, VA

Sponsor: Marvin Whitney--Alexandria, VA CRUZ, Gary J.--Paris, TX DAMJI, Mohez--Calgary, Alberta, Canada EDMONSTON, Edward P.--Watertown, NY

Sponsor: H. Rossney--Watertown, NY FROLICH, Robert--Mesa, AZ GIBBS, Joseph G.--Sewickley, PA

Sponsor: Robert Bishop--Glenshaw, PA GONSHER, Phillip--Overland Park, KS GUADAGNO, Sidney--Tampa, FL HARRIS, Eldon W.--Boerne, TX HEBERT, Clarence J.--Carriere, MS HERNANDEZ, Edwardo--El Paso, TX HUSTON, Stanley A.--Sebastian, FL KLOIBER, Dean--Coloma, WI

Sponsor: Dennis W. Beutler--Madison, WI LAFLECHE, David R.--Cincinnati, OH MALKEMES, Barry--Scranton, PA MARTELL, Thomas A.--Sherman Oaks, CA PETERSON, Jim--Monroe, CT RAPONI, Rick--Victorville, CA ROBBINS, Herbert--San Diego, CA

Sponsor: John McCarthy--Oceanside, CA RODGERS, Robert--Seattle, WA ROKHLIN, Jacob--Dunwoody, GA

Sponsor: Richard Mazza--Marietta, GA ROTTER, Fred--Tucson, AZ

Sponsor: Roy Burkey--Tucson, AZ SHNASUAMY, J. M.--Tamil Nadu, India STORIC, Nino--Woodside, NY TALCOTT, John G. III--Talcottville, CT

Sponsor: Leo Jaroslaw--Acton, MA TAYLOR, Gregory A.--Hightstown, NJ

Sponsor: Eric Talley--Allentown, NJ VILLALOBOS, Eduardo--Vista, CA

Sponsor: Jim Broughton, Columbus, OH YU, Tim--Tucson, AZ

CLOCKMAKING BITS

A6b«t ...

By J.M. Huckabee CMC, FBHI

THE GREAT WHEEL FOR A SMALL CLOCK and

PROBLEMS WITH HANDS

Q, What Is your solution for the great wheel In a small antique French carriage clock? This one Is stripped about halfway around.

A. It is judged that your clock is 4-5 inches high with a platform escapement visible through a top window. I have had a few of these with bad great wheels over the past 20-30 years.

The probable cause of this is use of an oversize key and insufficient care in winding. The movements are wound on the barrel arbor, and when the spring reaches full-wind the excess force is transferred directly to the barrel and successive pinion. Extreme caution should be exercised when winding these clocks. Use of a small key somewhat limits the force that can be transferred to the great wheel gear teeth.

An attendant problem to the stripped gear may be a damaged pinion, bent arbor, or broken pivot on the successive gear stage. In most cases it is easier to repair the great wheel than to repair a broken pinion of the next stage.

As I recall these jobs from past years, the great wheel and mainspring barrel is a two-piece assembly which is softsoldered together.

It's easy to turn a small propane torch on the wheel, and in am inute or so the wheel is removed from the barrel. The wheel is recessed in the spring barrel central region.

Our great wheel is in the order of 2.5-3.0 mm thick and about 30 mm in diameter. This is a very easy size range to work with in a watchmakers lathe, both in turning operations and gear cutting.

On this size work I prefer to hold the gear blank in an index fixture mounted on the vertical tool slide. The gear cutter is then driven in the lathe headstock. Other than an escape wheel, it's about the easiest clock gear cutting job that can be done on a watchmakers lathe.

Plan to cut the barrel area recess after the teeth are cut. The extra wheel strength will probably eliminate the need of back-up plates on each side of the blank.

Our barrel is reattached to the new gear by heating the gear from its underside with a soft flame. Slip the barrel in place and apply soft solder to the barrel inside bottom. If a small amount of solder needs to be cleaned up, chuck the new assembly in the lathe and cut away the excess solder.

This is an extensive repair that works out very nicely. ft is one that you could aptly use as your first experience in making clock gears on the watchmakers lathe.

Q. My problem Is clock hands and hubs. With the exception of old American clocks, I find it almost impos-

slble to buy hands which wlll reasonably flt a clock movement. What solutlon can you suggest?

A. This indeed is a problem that follows every clockmaker like a plague! There is no quick and easy solution to the hand and hub situation.

Many years ago I began to purchase hands without hubs or holes, or hands with small holes. At the same time I obtained a plier-like sheet metal punch with interchangeable punches. This tool will pierce an 8-day mainspring or the spring steel clock hands. With this easy method of cutting holes in hands, the remaining problem is the hub.

Hubs are made on a lathe. The Unimat or a similar size lathe is better suited than a watchmakers lathe, the reason being the good, strong 3-jaw chuck and the ability to handle a boring tool. The drill-holding tailstock also makes hole drilling easy.

Make a grandfather clock second hand pipe from brass rod stock of suitable size. Turn a small tang that may be riveted into the hand. Drill the opposite end to a slip-fit on the second hand arbor. Now hold the piece in a pin vise and slit it with a thin saw driven by the lathe. Pinch the pipe lightly; rivet the hand in place. The job looks nice, is functionally perfect, and is executed quickly.

Let's try the hub for an hour hand. Turn a piece of brass stock to suitable external dimensions. I make the riveting shoulder on the back side of the hand. Now drill the hole to some size lessthanthefinished dimension and cuttofinal size with a boring tool. Where space permits a long pipe, the inside diameter may be a close fit, the pipe split, and slightly pinched for a friction fit.

Try making the hub for a minute hand like this. Assume the hub must be thin, have a square hole, and a specific time relationship to the clock movement. Turn the hub to external dimensions and drill the hole size equal to the dimension across the square that it is to fit. The square can then be cut with a square needle file.

Here are some guides on riveting. The hub should fit snugly into the hole in the hand. Slightly chamfer the hand hole on the side which receives the rivet. Size the riveting shoulder of the hub just above the hand surface, and stake in about four places with a flat-faced punch. The staked area rolls into the chamfer for a good, easy lock.

Nowtofinishingthat square hole. Stake the hub in place lightly. Place this over a hole in a wood block and file the square to a trial fit. I do most of this work from the rear side of the hand. When the fit is satisfactory, place the hand on its movement and slip the hub until the hand is in proper time relationship; remove and secure the staking job. O

If you have a question, please write: •Ask Huck,• c/o Horological Times, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211


On Soviet Thought by

Robert Ridenour CMEW

With the changes that have occurred in what was once the Soviet Union and with interest build

ing around the world, I thought it would be good to address the topic of Russian horology.

The Russian watch industry is the world's third largest producer of both quartz and mechanical timepieces, according to reports from E .J. Augustine and Associates, a Washington D.C.-based research and consulting firm. The exports of these watches will be among the strongest form of Russian products competing for a marketplace on a worldwide level. The production of 72 million pieces per year and the lack of consumer products will be two of the major reasons.

I would like to cover some of the loose ends on military watches--one of the biggest fads to hit the international watch scene. The hype over Soviet military wristwatches is somewhat misleading. The Soviet military wristwatch is not a standard issued wristwatch for the Soviet military. Instead, Soviet watch factories produce numerous styles of wristwatches, some of which are then sold at military supply stores and other military distribution outlets. Of course, certain styles enjoy more popularity among the Soviet military personnel.

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The Kommandirskiye style (meaning commander) is available in many different dials. However, all bear the name Kommandirskiye in Russian, with the dialsalwayshavingaredstarandtheBOCTOKfactory trademark. These watches only vary by the color and pictures on the dials; paratrooper, tank, destroyer, etc. The watches all come equipped with a Poljot 2414A manual wind/date movement and a factory tolerance of -20 to +40 seconds per day, and they are also waterproof

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to 50 meters. If this sounds familiar it is due to Gruen's production of the "Soviet paratrooper watch," manufactured in Hong Kong and marketed worldwide. It comes equipped with a Remex quartz movement.

Now a word about authenticity and how the buyer can be sure he/she is buying a 100% Soviet-made military watch. Accor~g to G.0.S.T. (the State standards for the Soviet Union), all watches manufactured in the Soviet Union must have marked on the dial either the brand name or trademark of the factory in which the watch was made. Furthermore, "Made in the USSR" must appear in Russian (CCCP). Soviet-made watches without both of these markings are likely to have only movements that are actually Soviet-made.

New interest lies with the Omega Watch Company. According to Ms. Serutti, Manager of Marketing at Omega, Omega bas signed an agreement with the Soviet Union to provide Soviet cosmonauts with the Omega "Speed.master Professional," making it the official watch of the Soviet space program.

Also, a point of interest is the BOCTOK trade name that the Christopol Watch Factory uses. The Bis pronounced as a V, and it is the name of the first Sovietmanned space program. Now with the dissolution of the Soviet Union, these watches have become even more treasured. Who knows what the future holds?

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News in the Trade

ROBERT DREW APPOINTED VICE PRESIDENT/JEWELRY FOR BULOVA CORP. Robert L Drew has been appointed Vice Presidentfor Bulova's 14 Kt. Gold Ultime Jewelry Line, it was announced recently by Carl E. Rosen, the firm's Senior Vice President.

Mr. Drew's background encompasses over 15 years of retailing and merchandising expertise in both costume and fine jewelry for several companies including Monet Jewelers and the Robbins Company.

In his new position, Mr. Drew will be responsible for the seUing, directing, and overseeing the sales of Bulova's Ultime 14 Kt. Gold Jewelry line. He will also be involved with the merchandising and product develop· ment of Ultime Jewelry. Mr. Rosen stated that "Bulova envisions great growth and success of the Ultime Jewelry line under the direction of Bob Drew."

Mr. Drew holds a B.S. degree in Management from St. Fraricis College and an M.B.A. in Marketing/ Management from Fordham University. A resident of New York City, Mr. Drew enjoys sports and travel.

Robert L Drew

LUXURY TAX CRIPPLES U.S. JEWELRY INDUSTRY The luxury tax on jewelry must be repealed to avoid further deterioration of the jewelry industry and slow the loss of jobs which has severely hurt middleclass employees, an industry representative recently told lawmakers.

'The luxury tax is a revenuelosing, middle-class job-losing phenomena,• Kathryn Everhart, former di·

rector of Jewelers of America, told members of the House Ways and Means Committee. 'We are convinced the lost sales, with the full economic ramifications associated with lost opportunities, will exceed by many times any revenue collected by this tax.•

The imposition of luxury taxes on jewelry threatens the nation's gold industry. Because jewelry is the largest end-use of gold, this selective tax jeopardizes gold sales. Throughout the west and in other areas of the country, gold production and exploration has increased dramatically in the past 10 years. The United States now is the second largest producer of gold in the world. The luxury tax could curtail this growth, especially since it leaves consumers with the perception that all jewelry sales are taxed, not just those exceeding the designated threshold. The psychological impact is as detri· mental as the tax itself.

Although many have blamed the recession for the jewelry industry's recent downturn, Everhart explained that while this recession has been less severe than that of 1981-82, the jewelry business has fared much worse in the current situation.

In the earlier recession, consumer spending on jewelry and watches declined by about 1.4%. During the present period, consumer spending on jewelry and watches has plummeted almost 11 %, or about eight times more than during the earlier economic decline.

The primary differerice is the presence of the luxury tax, Everhart said. Since January 1, 1992, at least 15,000 workers have lost their jobs. This figure reflects the bleakest Christmas sales in recent memory and the spate of bankruptcies, led by Zale Corp., the nation's largest jewelry retailer, she said. That company alone closed 500 stores and terminated 3,000 workers last month.

Twice in this century a retail tax has been imposed on jewelry. When Congress repealed one of these earlier taxes in 1965, the House Committee on Ways and Means noted in its report: "These selective excise taxes tend to reduce sales and therefore reduce income and jobs in industries that produce the taxed goods. In these ways, selective excise taxation results


in arbitrary and undesirable distortion in aUocalion of resources and in this manner interferes with the free play of our competitive market."

ANDY FINN HEADS LONGINES·WITTNAUER SPECIAL MARKETS DIVISION The appointment of Andrew (Andy) Finn to head the Longines-Wrttnauer special Markets Division was announced by Robert M. Mazzone, Senior Vice President/Sales of the New Rochelle, NY-based company.

In making the announcemen~ Mazzone pointed out that the 33-year-old Finn was one of the people instrumental in the rapid growth of this highly successful enterprise. Said Mazzone, "I have every confidence that under Andy's stewardship the Special Markets Division will generate continued growth as a major player in the Premium and Incentive Awards arena•

Mazzone, who was the previous head of the Special Markets Division, was recently promoted to his present position which has placed him in charge of the entire LonginesWittnauer sales force.

Andy Finn

JEWELERS ATTEND NOBEL AWARDS IN STOCKHOLM A select group of retail jewelers around the country was recently chosen to attend the 90th Nobel Awards ceremony in Stockholm, Sweden. The trip was hosted by UTAC America, Inc., a leading marketer of luxury watches and jewelry in the United States.

The awards ceremony, which took place in mid-December, was attended by many distinguished past recipients of awards in literature, economics, physics, medicine, and chemistry. Included in the group of jewelers that made the trip were Bob Wexler of Toumeau Jewelers, Helene Zadok of Zadok Jewelers, Charles Adams of Cellini, Ronnie Lee of Chong Hing Jewelers, and Joe Amega of Prin· cess Jewels Collection.

According to Patricia Granger, President/CEO of UTAC America, thetripwasdesignedtohonor those jewelers who have been instrumental to the growth of Audemars Piguet, Bertolucci, Breguet, and the Bonini Fine Jewelry Group.

"We can never forget that the ultimate success of our company rests with the people who sell our prod· ucts," said Ms. Granger. 'This trip gives us the opportunity to show our appreciation to those people who've made such important contributions."

The trip, which ran for six days, culminated with the ceremonies in the Globe Arena where the Nobel Prizes were awarded.

SPAIN AT CHRISTIE'S: THE TREASURE OF THE NUESTRA SENORA DE LAS MARA VILLAS With Madrid nominated as European city of culture for 1992, the World Expo in Seville, the Olympics in Barcelona, and the 500th anniversary of the dis· covary of the Americas, the attention of the world will be turned on Spain this year as never before.

This is to be commomorated by Christie's with the first ever sale wholly dedicated to "Spanish Works of Art," which will take place on May 28-29 in London. The sale will include some exceptional 17th century jewelry, which has been recovered over the years from the wreck of the Nuestra Senora de las Maravil/as, a ship that carried passengers and buUion from the New World to Spain.

The Nuestra Senora de las MaraviHas left Spain in May 1654, reaching the New World in August of that year. In Colombia she was loaded with gold, silver, and emeralds before landing at Porto Bello. The threat of

Back row: Marianne Nolan and William Nolan, both of Nolan's Jewelers, Ud.; Ronald Lee of Olong Hing Goldsmith; Geoffrey White of lntemational Management Group; Jonalhan Zadok of Zadok Jewelers; Stephen Peet of Oppenheimer & Co.; Robert Wexler of Toumeau; Niklaus Bieri of UTC lntemalional Wali:hes and Jewelry; Georges Boutellier of Boutelliet Uhren and Schmuck; Ryo Yamaguchi of Mikimoto & Co., Ud.; Richard Klaus ofSchumann Juwellere; Joe Amega of Princess Jewels Collectio!1; Charles Adams of Cellini; Guillermo Cuadrado of l.C. Joheros; Aurora Cuadrado-Pizarro of l.C. Joyeros; Claudette Adams of Cellini. Bottom Row: Christine Boutellier of Boutelner Uhren and Schmuck; Marian Helena Johanna Jammes of Schumann Juweliere; Ginger Wexler of Toumeau; Ellen Lee of Chong Hing Goldsmith; Patricia Granger of UT AC America Inc.; Helene Zadok of Zadok Jewelers; Chiald Yamaguchi of Mikimoto & Co., Ltd.; and Susan Donath of Princess Jewels Collection.

privateers delayed her departure for Havana, but she arrived safely in October 1655, and underwent necessary repairs before the return journey to Cadiz in Spain.

Most of the treasure was located in the stern of the galleon. Gold and jewels were generaNy placed in the captain's cabin, and larger amounts of coin and bullion were placed in the lower hold aft. Sometimes bullion, because of its weight, was thrown on top of the ballast, while contraband treasure was usually hidden in crates, casks, or packages which increased the weight of the ship to dangerous levels.

Laden with passengers and crew and weighed down by cargo, the Maravillas departed from Havana on January 1, 1656. Being one of the two larger galleons in the flotilla, she brought up the rear, and made way for Spain. The ship was wrecked off the Bahamas, where the sand-covered ocean floor is notoriously shallow, and sank after colliding with another ship that was at the head of the flotilla.

Of the 650 people aboard the Maravillas, only 45 survived, rescued by another galleon in the fleet Of the cargo, the 5 minion sunken ounces of gold and silver were to occupy the minds of treasure hunters for years to come.

Immediately after the disaster, a salvage attempt was launched by

the Governor of Cartagena, who sent six salvage ships with divers from the Venezuelan pearl fisheries. This and succeeding attempts were unsuccessful, and 300years were to elapse before the diver and acheologist Robert Marx rediscovered the wreck in 1972. The trail started during a research visit to Seville, when he discovered nautical charts gMng the location of the Maravillas as well as finding her cargo manifest, which convinced him of her value.

Fourteen years later, Captain Herbert Humphreys, Jr. negotiated a contract with the Bahamians, and the salvage operation was launched in 1986, and in June 1988 excitement mounted with the recovery of the main anchor of the Maravillas.

In the same area some beautiful jewelry was found, as well as gold bars and coins, a selection of which will be included in Christie's sale dedicated to Spanish works of art.

In the summer months of 1989, the team made its most spectacular find to date--a magnificent gold and Colombian emerald cross set with 66 well-matched stones, estimated at £200,000, one of the pieces offered by Christie's (shown above). The cross is of unusual shape, and displays a uniquely engraved reverse: this incorporates scrolls, quatrefoils, and crosses based on Spanish insignia (original black enamel or niello, now missing), and it was possibly intended

Gold and Colombian emerald cross set with 66 stones, one of the pieces offered by Christie's at their auction May 28-29.

as a gift to the Virgin from a member of one of the Spanish knighthoods.

The sale will also include a spectacular circular gold and emerald brooch, set with openwork pattern of 81 Colombian emeralds, and a shellshaped gold pendant from the order of Santiago, a military body that was committed to protecting the faith from Moorish infidels.

Further highlights of the sale will be a colonial gold earring of elaborate chandelier form, and an interesting gold-mounted chiastolite ring,

the grey hardstone displaying a dark central cross in its structure, circa 1650.

The fate of the Maravi/las is known to us through a graphic account of her sinking written by a Catholic priest, Don Diego Portichuelo de Rivadeneyra, who boarded the ship in Porto Bello, Panama He records how, during the fourth night of the voyage, he was wakened by the boatswain's shouts, and hurrying on deck he discovered they were in 13 fathoms of water in the Bahamas Channel.

" ... I found some alarmed, others contused, and everyone gMng opinions about what should be done.• On account of new sails, the MaraviUas had made good speed, and was close to the Capitana when that vessel fired a cannon shotto warn the accompanying flotilla to change course. She then turned away from the danger, but in so doing rammed the Maravillas as she attempted a slow and cumbersome manuever. The impact • . . broke through our planks from the top of the waterline to the holds, making splinters out of all of them. •

NEW SPRING CATALOG FROM CONTACT EAST A new 196-pagetull-colorcatalog offering many new and innovative items for jewelers, watchmakers, and hobbyists working with detailed jewelry and electronic parts is now available from Contact East The company offers precision hand tools, inspection equipment, cleaning equipment, adhesives, soldering supplies, technical electronic supplies, and more. All products are guaranteed, and orders placed by 4 PM are shipped by 5 PM. To receive a free copy, call (508) 682-2000, or write: Contact East, 335 Willow St., No. Andover, MA 01845.


Classified Ads

REGULATIONS AND RATES

Ads are payable in advance $.60 per word, $.70 per word in bold type . . cl~ssifiecl display ads are $25.00 per column inch, 2-1/4" wide. ~ds are not c.om'!11ss1onable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all ~~PY. Pnce hsts of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 add1t1onal f?r postage ~d handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be rec01Vecl 30 days m advance (e.g. May issue closes for copy on April 1st).

HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 Phone (513) 661-3838 Fax (513) 661-3131

CLOCKS: Custom pinion and gear cutting. Repivoting and barrel repairs or complete movement restoration. Ye Old Clock Shop (formerly Kazen & Son), 2051 Corunna Avenue, Owosso, MI 48867; (517) 725-8340, Ken Kazen, CMC.

MEL HEFNER TRADE SHOP Professional watchmaker repairs m.echanical, Aecutron tuning fork, and analog quartz watches. Request price list. Expert retrofitting. P.O. Box 419, Dadeville, AL 36853; (205) 825-4559.

12 i "

2·

• -· .. .._

Quartz Conversions Diamond Dial Conversions

Emblem & Name Personalization

Write for Brochures INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC.

58 W. SUGARTREE

l I I I I I I

P.O. BOX 970 l WILMINGTON, OH 45177 1

~------------------~-----~ 44 Horological Times/April 1992

DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit the quartz movement. Send your works to: KIRK DIAL OF SEATrLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452.

TIMING MACIDNES -- NEW AND REFURBISHED. Quality Service and Repair. DON HOLDEN, Box 56, Penna. Furnace, PA 16865. Call (814) 692-2285.

ENGLISH CLOCKMAKER, I have 38 years experience in restoring and making parts for European carriage cl.ocks, small French table and mantel clocks. Also platform escapements, staffs, cylinders, repivoting, hairsprings, pinions, and others. JOHN BARRS, 8442 N.E. 140thSt., Bothell, WA 98011; (206) 820-8288.

THE MORTICIAN NO COMEBACKS

We correct past mistakes and bury them. Specializing in wheel work, repivoting, and making of parts. Repeaters, Audemars Piguet, Piaget, Rolex, and Quartz Conversions. All work guaranteed 2 years and done by Jal Small, CMW &Associates; (713) 561-5147.

CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, material and tools. Custom made to order or repair of gears, pinions, and parts. Catalog $2.00. TANI ENGINEERING, Box 338, Atwater, OH44201; (216) 947-2268.

····.·=· " FREE ACCUTRONREPAJR

Send 2 MENS Accutrons (no basket cases} Will repair one free and keep the other George Hite, 250 Hammond Pond Pky Chestnut Hill, MA 02167 (617)332-7363

SPACE VIEW CONVERSIONS $45·

ITHACA CALENDAR CLOCK CO., INC. New calendar movements. Complete restoration of Ithaeas. 1-year warranty. Old Ithaca Calendar Clocks for sale. 2009 Diyden Rd., Freeville, NY 13068. (607) 347-6661 Sat. and Eve.

POCKET WATCH CASE REPAIR - Bezels, hinges, springs, dents, et.c. HARRY MAZAR, Tick-Tock Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St., Benton, IL 62812. Phone (618) 439-6995.

SHIP'S CHRONOMETERS OVERHAULED. Also HAMILTON 21 PARTS for sale: Staffs or escape pinions $60; escape wheels $110; detent springs $175; lockingjewels $40; keys, box hardware, etc. I buy chronometers and partial movements. 1 year guarantee on repairs. DEWEY CLARK, (301) 592-3617.

WATCH RESTORATION and repair work. Custom staffs, pivoting, and regilding. Ron DeCorte, Box 6126, Toledo, OH 43614; (419) 381-1081.

MURPHY1S CRYSTAL SERVICE FAST -- QUALITY WORK

* 24-hour turnaround on most jobs. * Complete crystal fitting service

fGr new and old wrist and pocket watches.

CALL OR WRITE FOR PRICE UST PHONE (209) 576-8865

2324 WESTMINSTER DR. MODESTO, CA 95355

WE'VE MOVEDll Larger Shop, More Technicians to Serva You B

ELECTFIONIC EQUIPMENT SERVICE We era Factory Authorfzad Service for:

* VIBROORAF & PORTESCAP *TICK~RINT & LAA

We service ell makes d: u~rasonics, an makes a watch l'Ble recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience.

JACK PHIWPS • ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE 757 Lincoln Ave., #26 San Rafael, CA 94901

For lnfonnetlon, Call (415) 453-9288

CUTI'ERS cycloidal for clock wheels and pinions. Module 0.2 to 1.0. Constant profile producing traditional square bottomed teeth, 104 sizes. Escape cutters: recoil (set of seven sizes), dead beat (set of four sizes). Ratchets 60" and 70°. All cutters made in 8% cobalt M42 High Speed Steel and heat treated under vacuum. Also cutter grinding wheels, Grit and CBN. Send for Information Sheet, prices, and order forms to: P .P. Thornton (Successors), Ltd., Horological Cutter Makers, The Old Bakehouse, Upper Tysoe, Warwickshire, CV35 OTR, England.

Hairsprings Vibrated HairSpringin9. Ltd.

280 Constitution Circle• P.O . Box 166 No. Brunswick, NJ 08902 • (908) 828-6045

CLOCKS: gearcutting, repivoting, jeweling, rebushing. REPAIRING: timers, aircraft clocks, pocket watches. ROY H . NIEGEL, CMC, CMW, 101 E . Sa.int Joe Drive, Spirit Lake, Idaho 83869. SASE or CALL (208) 623-4330.

CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING, RETOOTIUNG, AND OmER CUSTOM WORK. Movements overhauled with 2-year guarantee. All work done by a CMC or a CC. Send SASE for price list. HUGH'S CLOCK SHOP, 125 Ganttown Rd., Turnersville, NJ 08012; (609) 228-1539.

QUARTZ CONVERSIONS WATCH RUSTED? DISCONTINUED?

NO PARTS? SENTIMENTAL? GOLD CASE? SEND IT TO AL ZAMORA

FOR A NEW SWISS QUALITY MOVEMENT AND FIRST QUALITY JOB CONVERSION. 95% SIZES POSSIBLE, POCKETS ALSO.

SAFE REGISTERED MAIL. ALFONSO ZAMORA

280 PRESIDIO PLACE BUFFALO, NY 14221

(716) 633-6138

CLOCK WHEELAND PINION CUTflNG

Fastservice--WriteforfreeBroclmre and price list. Fendleys, 2535 Himes St., Irving, TX 75060. (214) 986-7698.

DON'T GIVE UP HOPE, GIVE US A TRY? Dependable repair of all types of high-grade watches--Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, etc. We repair all types of Accutrons by Bulova, Omega, Movado, Longines, etc. and Hamilton electric calibres 500-505. Rolex double springs and most other watch parts made. Watch cryatals custom made. Uyou need a watch repaired-high-grade, antique, complicated, etc.-and want fast, dependable service with high quality GUARANTEED, give us a try; so don't worry, be happy! Over 30 years experience in all phases ofwatcnrepair and watch parts manufacturing. J. Park, CMW. Time Zone, 3578-F Memorial Drive, Decatur, GA 30032; (404) 289-4464; Mon.-Sat. 10 am - 9 pm.

New Hennes GK II J engraving machine with the CX-cutting attachment with 4 sets of letters, and Vigor EN-801 inside ring engraver. All in new condition. All goes together for $750.00. Check around on the price of each. (606) 986-7855.

MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed lowest prices-as low as $2.30. Two-year guarantee. Large selection of hands and numerals. Free. delivery. SASE OI call (704) 333-0221. HALL CLOCK SHOP, 1512 Central Ave., Charlotte, NC 28205.

EQUIPMENT: Vibrosonic A800 cleaning machine, VibrografMR600 timing machine, both 3 years old, light UBe, excellent condition. Phone (817) 640-8750 after 5 pm or leave m.essage.

H.ABE USED WATCH MOVEMENTS

2 Florida Way Lonaconing, MD 21539

Mr. Watchmaker-lfyoo have a problem finding parts for older watches, badly rusted or damaged beyond repair, we may be able to help you. We have lots of movements for parts at reasonable prices. Some suitable for replacement. If not satisfactory you may return.

Phone(301)463-6595

CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL

Save time, money, end work re-covering bellowa. Euler then repleclng. For Information, Hnd bualn ... •lze SASE to:

JANDi GOGGIN Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175

WATCHMAKER'S EQUIPMENT: Marshall lathe w/10 collets, $250.00. Wat.chmaster ultrasonic cleaner, $395.00. Vibrograf B-200A, $995.00; B-200, $750.00; B-100, $395.00. L&R Master Cleaner, $99.95. Send SASE for list of additional equipment and hand tools. WATCHES ETC., 5934 NW 39th, Oklahoma City, OK 73122; (405) 789-2824.

COMPLETE SET OF WATCHMAKERS TOOLS & MATERIALS. RETIRING. $12,000. MARIETI'A, omo. (614) 373. 9910.

LARGE HERMES ENGRAVING MACIDNE

Good condition. Attachments and instruction manual. (304) 636-5542.

USED WATCHMAKERS TOOLS, WATCHES, MOVEMENTS. Send LSASE for price list. Jay Anderson, 3638 Sacramento Dr., Redding, CA 96001.

MINERAL CRYSTAL 0140-0340 U$ 50¢ ea. minimum 100 pcs. assorted. 'STYLEART' COBRA straps, complete movements, CANADA STAR watches (Toronto assembled). Toronto Jewellers Supply, 49 Camden St., Toronto MSV 1V2. (416) 369-9417, FAX (416) 369-1766.

HERMLE MOVEMENTS: Lowest prices in U.S . Factory fresh, 2-year warranty. Butterworth Clock Repair, 1715 Pearlview, Muscatine, IA 52761; 1-800-258-5418.

SCHOOL HOUSE - CLOCK CASES -HANDCRAFI'ED. Sizes up to 24", finest woods, fast service, made USA. Your movement or mine. REASONABLE. Write for price list, include business-size SASE. Bill N ailos, 54 Fruehauf Street, Snyder, NY 14226.

WATCH BATTERIES -- LOWEST PRICES #362 -- 24¢ #377 -- 24¢ #364 -- 12¢ #392 -- 15¢ #371 -- 30¢

All Sizes Avallable

TIMECELLS 1-800-HOT-TICK Free Batteries With First Order


Classified Ads

HAND CRAFTED DIAL WATCH Made in Toront.o. Zodiac, Sports, Logos, Names. ETA movement, French straps, date, W/R, 5 micron. Retail $85-$125. 5-year warranty. Looking for distributor. Canada Star Watch, (416) 369-9417, FAX (416) 369-1766.

Check with us for that hard-t.o-find mechanical wristwatch or pocket watch part. Send a detailed description of part needed (SN if possible) and SASE for response and price quote. ALSO, new pocket watch list out. Send SASE t.o WATCHES ETC., 5934 NW 39th, Oklahoma City, OK 73122; (405) 789-2824.

BE ALL THE CLOCKMAKER YOU CAN BE! Thornton Cutters in st.ock. KEN "LAW CMC H.C. 30, Box 825, Prescott, Arizona 86aOl. '

USED WATCHMAKERS TOOLS, EQUIPMENT, MATERIAL, SUPPLIES, WATCHES, MOVEMENTS, AND RE"LATED ITEMS. Write or call for our latest list. Tom Mister, Dashto Jewelers, 983 Providence Square Shopping Center, VIrginia Beach, VA 23464; (804) 495-2471.

NEW Electronic Timing Machines

• TIMETRAX 600 Wrist & Pocket Watch Tlm~r: Measures & displays watch trains in vibrations per hour, Calculates gain or loss in Sec/day. Over 40 preprogrammed trains: 7200-36000 /hr. Highly stable TCXO timebase. Complete wtwatch holder & pickups .... ..... $595

• .TIME TRAX 400 Clock Timer: Measures & displays clock trains in vibrallons per hour Extended timing range for 400 day & Atmos ~ocks, Balance mOde aids in setting movement in beat Complete w/pickup •.•................... . $395

•TICK TECH 195 Clock Timer: Measures Timing interval between ticks in milliseconds and Beats/Minute. Portable, battery powered complete w/pickup ............................... ..... $225

A~I u~its made in USA, 1 yr. warranty, complete with instructions & reference tables. Send 3 stamps for info & our new 1990 Catalog of Horological Literature.

~ Adams Brown Co., Box 357, ~ Cranbury, NJ 08512 (609) 655-8269


LEADING RETAIL CLOCK SALES AND SERVICE BUSINESS established 1978. Owners retiring. Solid sales and profits record. Tremendous growth opportunity in aftluent, suburban area of Twin Cities. Asking $45M plus invent.ory. Good terms t.o right party. (612) 475-1489.

WATCH REP AIR & JEWELRY SHOP specializing in sales of vintage watches and fine jewelry. Downtown Main Street in sunny Sarasota, FL. Est. 1951. Owner retiring. (813) 955-4424, Fax (813) 955-2808.

Clockmake,.. Newsletter Special Offer: With your payment of $34 for a new one-year subscription, choose a free bonus issue on Making a Barrel Hook or Repivoting. Also in stock: Chime Clock Repair, 210-page hardcover book by Steven G. Conover, $28.50 postpaid. PA residents add 6% tax. Clackmakers Newsletter, 203 John Glenn Ave., Reading, PA 19607.

AMERICAN REPRINTS CO.

Reviewed Books - Page 86

WRIST WATCHF.8: IIlSTORY OF A CENTURY'S DEVELOPMENT •••• $79.90

MAKING & REPAIRING WOODEN CLOCK CASES ................................ $29.90

ROYAL CLOCKS ............................ $27.90

LESS 10% PLUS $4.50 UPS

•••••••• COMPLETE WATCH PRICE GUIDE #12 New & larger than ever .................... $19.90 SWATCH COLLECl'ORS GUIDE by B.C. Bonello ................................................ $19.90

LESS HI% PLUS $3.00 UPS

•••••••• ALL THE NEW SWATCH BOOKS

INSTOCKm

•••••••• SCANLON/AMERICAN REPRINTS CO.

P.O. Box 379 Modesto, CA 95353 (209) 667-2906 Fax (209) 521-2777

Seeking a watchmaker or jeweler t.o join me as a partner or associate in my new st.ore as soon as possible. Excellent location in beautiful Hilton Head Island, South Carolina. Last year 1.3 million t.ourists. Contact Peter-Dieter Baier, Swiss Pr. & Intl. Timepieces, Ltd., 32-0 Shelter Cove Ln., Hilt.on Head, SC 29928. Phone & Fax (803) 842-9500, Home (803) 686-4086.

WATCHMAKERS NEEDED

UP TO $1,000 WEEKLY PLUS BENEFITS

Qualified in Bulova Accutrons, Mechanical, Quartz, and Short Jobs. All Skill Levels.

(313) 559-5329

TRADE WORK WANTED A fully experienced watclunaker seeks trade accounts. If your present shop is not satisfying your customers, try Lewis E. Zimpfer, 207 Dogwood Dr., Celina, OH 45822; (419) 586-4324. Repairing all makes of watches.

ATTENTION STUDENTS: New course catalog available free for Laurie Penman's correspondence course in clock repair. Send your request to USA course agent Steven G. Conover, 203 John Glenn Ave., Reading, PA 19607.

JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL 40-24 62nd St. Woodside, NY 113n

Phone (718) 424-2929

Quallty Instruction Since 1945 6. WATCHMAKING

(17 months) WATCH REPAIR (9 and 13 months)

JEWELRY REPAIR BASIC ELECTRONICS

Ideal Housing, Dining, Recreation NATIS approved, BEOG available

TEXAS INSITIUfE OF JEWELRY TECHNOLOGY

A D1 v1-.ion ()t Pari~ Junmr Cnlle~C'

Comprehensive Training * Jewelry Repair *Casting * Stone Setting

* Watcl} Repair *Watch Making *Gemology

ASSOCIATE DEGREE OR CERTIFICATE

Paris Junior College 2400 Clarksville St. • Paris. TX 75460-6298

TEXAS-1-800-441-13 98 OUTSIDE-1-800-232-5804

WANTED: L&R Tempo 400 Watch Cleaning Machine. Petrocy Jewelers, 1500 Dale Road, Cheektowaga, NY 14225; (716) 893-5710, Tracy.

WANTED: Hamilton chronometer boxes, parts, & hardware. Also, wrist chronograph movements. Will pay: $300 - Valjoux 69 $75 - Valjoux 72 $200 - Valjoux 88 $175 - Movado 95 $100 - Valjoux 72C $175 - Longines 132N

$500 - Venus 179-189-190 ONCE UPON A TIME CLOCK SHOP, Dean Sarnelle, 25 West Beverley St., Staunton, VA 24401; (703) 997-9437 or (703) 885-6064.

Seeking to buy complete set of watchmakers tools, equipment, parts, etc. Please contact: Peter-Dieter Baier, CMW, Phone & Fax (803) 842-9500.

WANTED * Diamonds - all sizes, qualities;

even chipped, old mine, single cut * Scrap Watch Bands - paying $12-$27 lb. * Dead Watch Batteries (unsorted accepted) * Gold Filled & Gold Scrap Filings

1 O, 14, 18K, Buffing Waste, etc. * Sterling & Plated Flatware * China, Old Watches - Rolex, etc.

roZt~~EE 1-800-426-2344

Ron Fried President

SPECIALTY METALS REFINING COMPANY

1 O Bay Street Westport, CT 06880

Members Jewelers Board a Trade

Our 84th Consecutive Ad

We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour paY1:11ent return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Established 1960. Phone (803) 722-2073.

WANTED: Original Rolex Eazy Oyster Opener, will pay up to $500.00. We buy watchmaker's tools, equipment, parts, movements, or complete collections of watches. WATCHES ETC., 5934 NW 39th, Oklahoma City, OK 73122; (405) 789-2824.

HAMILTON ELECTRIC REPAIRMAN seeks parta! Movements, balances, etc. desperately need.ad. Want anything relat.ed to H~tonElectrics. Rene Rondeau, 120 Harbor Dnve, Corte Madera, CA 94925; (415) 924-6534.

We buy watchmakers tools, equipment, material and related items as well as jewelers and clockmakers tools and watch collections, etc. Specialize in estate purchases. Call or write Tom Mister, Dashto Jewelers, 983 Providence Square Shopping Center, Virginia Beach, VA 23464; (804) 495-24 71.

WANTED: Unusual American pocket watches/ movements. I buy entire collections, estates, watchmakers' inventories. Over 31 years experience of honest and reliable confidential transactions. JON HANSON, Box 5499, Beverly Hills, CA 90210; (213) 826-7778.

Pocket & Wrl1twatchn Wanted Dead or Allvel American W11tham, llllnol11 How1rcl1 Keywlnd1, Gold, Early American, Chronometers, RepHters, Patek Phlllppe, V1cheron, Unu1ual, Hletorlcal, Fu1H1. CALL TOLL FREE 1-800-23.J-BUNN or Write: Maundy lntarnatlonal, P.O. Box 13028-H, Overland Park, K1n11166212.

Watcltes Wanted

We desperately need for our retail customers fine watches by:

Rolex, Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron & Constantin, Movado, Gubelin, etc.

We are paying top prices for any high quality, unusual or romplicated

Wrist or Pocket Watches

When You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch Call us Toll Free 1-800-842-8625

In Texas 1-214-902-0664

Always prompt immediate payment!

Wingate's Quality Watches P.O. Box 59760 • Dallas, TX 75229-1760

A'ITENTION WATCHMAKERS! Small ad, higher prices! We need your vintage watches for our European customers. Top prices paid for Patek, Vacheron, Role:a; Cartier, Movado, chronographs, and others. Buying all brands, new old stock. Buying mint boxed comic characters. Buying preowned modern Role:s: and Cartier. Buying ladies enamels. National Watch Exchange, 107 S. 8th St., Philadelphia, PA 19106. 1-800-8-WATCHES.

BUY e SELL e HIRE

RELOCATE e LEARN e FIND

Classifieds in Horological Times help you do what you want to do!


Dates to Remember APRIL 1992

3-5-Virginia Jewelers Association and the Horological Association of Virginia Annual Convention, Embassy Suites Hotel, Richmond, VA.

11-lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; Austin, TX.*

11-12-Beginning Lathe Bench Course (AWi); James Lubic, instruct , Or1ando, FL.*

12-lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; San Antonio, TX.*

20-Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; Sioux Falls, SD.*

24-26-Advanced Lathe Bench Course (AWi); Roy Hovey, instructor; Orlando, FL.*

26--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; Jamestown, ND.*

26--Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair Bench Course (AWi); James Adams, instructor; Charleston, SC.*

29-May2-North Central Technical Conclave, Radisson Inn Madison, Madison, WI. For more information contact AWi Central at (513) 661-3838.

MAV1992

5--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; Kansas City, MO.*

5--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench Course (AWi); Remy Waelchli, instructor; Denver, CO.*

6--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench Course (AWi); Remy Waelchli, instructor; Oklahoma City, OK.*

8-10--North Carolina Watchmaker's Association Annual Convention, Hampton Inn, Morehead City, NC.

9-10-Beginning Lathe Bench Course (AWi); James Lubic, instructor; Alexandria, VA.*

15-17--Advanced Lathe Bench Course (AWi); Roy Hovey, instructor; Alexandria, VA.*

16--lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; Ellisville, MS.*

16-17-Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); James Williams, instructor; Portland, OR.*

16-17--Arizona Clockmakers & Watchmakers Guild Annual Convention; Las Campanas Quality Inn; Cottonwood, /!\Z.. For more information contact Bob Macomber (602) 778-5720.

17--Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair Bench Course (AWi); James Adams, instructor; Norfolk, VA.*


17-lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; Mobile, AL.*

22-24--Texas Watchmakers Association Annual Convention, Wyndham Hotel at Southpark, Austin, TX. For information: Kim Naleski, 8103 Hillrise, Austin, TX 78759.

29-31-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); Roland Iverson, instructor; Seattle, WA.*

JUNE1992

7-Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair (AWi); James Adams, instructor; Nashville, TN.*

13-14--Beginning Lathe Bench Course (AWi); James Lubic, instructor; New York, NY.*

14--lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; Boston, MA.*

19-21-Advanced Lathe Bench Course (AWi); Roy Hovey, instructor; New York, NY.*

19-21-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); Roland Iverson, instructor; Denver, CO.*

20-24--Complicated Watches Course (AWi); Antoine Simonin, instructor; Cincinnati, OH.* THIS COURSE IS FULL.

23-25--AWI Research & Education Council Annual Meeting, Commonwealth Hilton, 1-75 & Turfway Road, Florence, KY. Contact AWi Central for more information.

26--AWI Affiliate Chapter Meeting, Commonwealth Hilton, 1-75& Turfway Road, Florence, KY. Contact AWi Central for more information.

27-28--AWI Annual Board of Directors Meeting, Commonwealth Hilton, 1-75 & Turfway Road, Florence, KY. Contact AWi Central for more information.

JULY1992

18-19--Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); James Williams, instructor; Omaha, NE.*

SEPTEMBER 1992

19--lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; Tucson, /!\Z.. (If advance registrations warrant, another class will be scheduled for September 20, 1992.)*

19-Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; Tucson, /!\Z.. (If advance registrations warrant, another class will be scheduled for September 20, 1992.)*

19-20-Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); James Williams, instructor; Tucson, /!\Z..*

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Esslinger & Co. ...... .. . ....... inside front cover Eveready Watch Batteries .......................... 7

Finn lime Products .... .............................. 27

Gem City College .................................... 31

S. LaRose, Inc . ........................................ 21

Livesay's, Inc. .. ..................... ................... 11

New York Jewelers Supply Co . ................ 31

Precision Crystal Cutting Co ..................... 27

Redco Supply, Inc ...................... .. ......... .... 33

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Twin City Supply Co .... ............................. 19

Vibrograf USA Corp. . ............................... 25

Witschi Electronics .................................... 15

Wm. S. McCaw Co ................................... 29

Young-Neal Co., Inc . .............................. .. 15

Zantech, Inc ............................ ................... 9

OCTOBER 1992

10-11-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; Seattle, WA.*

*For more Information on AWi Bench Coursee and Regional Samlnare, contact AWi Central, P.O. Box 11011, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45211; (513) 661-3838; Fax (513) 661-3131.

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AWi BENCH COURSES Fiscal 1992

To register for these courses, please send along with your request a registration fee of $25 per instruction day (For AWi members) to:

AWi Central P.O. Box 11011

Cincinnati, OH 45211 PLEASE NOTE: Registrations are limited and will be selected by the earliest postmarks.

You may register by fax if you wish; if so, please include your Visa or MasterCard number, card expiration date, and signature. FAX: (513) 661-3131.

For more information, call (513) 661-3838.

APRIL 1992 11--1 ntro to Quartz Watch Repair--Austin, TX 11-12--Beginning Lathe--Orlando, FL 12--lntro to Quartz Watch Repair--San Antonio, TX 20--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Sioux Falls, SD 24-26--Advanced Lathe--Orlando, FL 26--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Jamestown, ND 26--Useful Techniques: Mech'I Watch Repair--Charleston, SC 29-May 2--North Central Technical Conclave--Madison, WI

MAY 1992 5--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Kansas City, MO 5--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Denver, CO 6--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Oklahoma City, OK 9-10--Beginning Lathe--Alexandria, VA 15-17--Advanced Lathe--Alexandria, VA 16--lntro to Quartz Watch Repair--Ellisville, MS 16-17--Cuckoo Clock Repair--Portland, OR 17--lntro to Quartz Watch Repair--Mobile, AL 17--Useful Techniques: Mech'I Watch Repair--Norfolk, VA 29-31--Advanced Clock Repair--Seattle, WA

JUNE 1992 7--Useful Techniques: Mech'I Watch Repair--Nashville, TN 13-14--Beginning Lathe--New York, NY 14--lntro to Quartz Watch Repair--Boston, MA 19-21--Advanced Lathe--New York, NY 19-21--Advanced Clock Repair--Denver, CO 20-24--Complicated Watches--Cincinnati, OH

JULY 1992 18-19--Cuckoo Clock Repair--Omaha, NE

SEPTEMBER 1992 19*--lntro to Quartz Watch Repair--Tucson, AZ. 19*--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Tucson, AZ. 19-20--Cuckoo Clock Repair--Tucson, AZ. *If advance registrations warrant, another class

will be scheduled on September 20.

OCTOBER 1992 10-11--Repair of the Atmos Clock--Seattle, WA

COURSES & INSTRUCTORS

Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW

Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Robert Bishop, CMEW

Introduction to Clock Repair James Lubic

Advanced Clock Repair Roland Iverson, CMC

Repair of the Atmos Clock Gerald Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI

Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair James Adams, CMW, FBHI

Beginning Lathe James Lubic

Cuckoo Clock Repair James Williams

400-Day Clock Repair John A. Nagle

Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs James Broughton, CMEW Remy Waelchli

Advanced Lathe Roy Hovey

Striking Clocks John Nagle

See the Table of Contents of this issue for PROJECT EXTEND courses.

mineral glass crystals - american watchmakers

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