chapter 23 facials. 2 skin analysis & consultation ____________________________________...

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Chapter 23 Facials

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Chapter 23

Facials

2

Skin Analysis & Consultation

• ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

• Consultation allows you the opportunity to ask the client questions about their health and skin as well as advise them about the appropriate products and treatments

3

Intake Form

During the consultation a client will fill out an intake form that will ask many health questions that will allow you to identify any contradictions

• ________________________________________________________________________________________________________ during the facial treatment.

• Example: a client using Retin-A should not receive any waxing or exfoliation procedures

4

Main Contradictions

• Use of Accutane, Retin-A, Renova, Tazorac, or Differin – NO Waxing, Exfoliating, Peeling or Stimulating treatments

• Pregnancy – No electrical treatments

• Metal pins or plates – No electrical treatments

• Pacemakers / Heart Irregularities – No electrical treatments

• Allergies – always use non-fragranced products for sensitive skin

• Seizures or Epilepsy – No electrical or light treatments

• Oral Steroids (Prednisone) – No stimulating or exfoliating treatments, No waxing

• Autoimmune disease (lupus) – No stimulating treatments

• Diabetes – No services without physicians approval. Diabetics heal very slowly

• Blood Thinners – No waxing or extractions

5

When in doubt – DON’T

A cosmetologist _________________________________________. However, as a professional, you must be able to recognize the presence of various skin aliments in order to suggest that the client seek medical advice from a physician

After a skin analysis and consultation if you have any doubts DO NOT provide the service & refer the client to a physician

6

Skin Type

_________________________________________

_________________________________________

_________________________________________, although the skin may look considerable better after treatment

7

Skin Types

Oily

Dry

Normal

Combination Dry

Combination Oily

Acne

8

Skin Condition

____________________________________________________________________________________

9

Skin Conditions

• Oily – open & closed comedones, clogged pores, shiny, thick appearance

• Dry – ________________ tight, pore-less looking, dehydrated with fine lines and wrinkles, dry and rough to the touch

• Normal – very unusual (most common is combination skin)

• Combination Dry – may have clogged pores in the nose, chin and center of forehead. Dry , pore-less towards the outside edges of the face

• Combination Oily – comedones, clogged pores or obvious pores in the center of the face (T-zone)

• Acne – presence of numerous open and closed comedones, clogged pores, and red papules and pustules

10

Skin Conditions Cont’d

____________________________ – dark blotches of color, caused by sun exposure or hormone imbalances

__________________________________ and home care products that discourage pigmentation

Daily use of sunscreen and avoidance of sun exposure are very important for this skin type

11

Skin Conditions Cont’d

Sensitive skin has a thin, red-pink look and is easily inflamed by some skin care products

Avoid strong products, fragranced products or strong exfoliates

______________________ is chronic hereditary disorder that can be indicated by constant or frequent facial blushing. It is considered a medical disorder and should be diagnosed by a dermatologist. Client should be treated with products specially formulated for rosacea

12

Dry Skin

Otherwise known as Alipidic – “____________________________”

Dehydrated skin can be flaky with small fine lines and wrinkles

Dehydration can be caused from lack of care, over-drying skin care products, sun exposure, lack of water intake

Dehydrated skin is treated by using hydrators that help to bind water to the skin surface

Proper hydration will result in smoother-looking and softer skin

13

Oily Skin

Produces too much sebum

Will have large pores

Skin may appear shiny or greasy

Pores may be clogged from dead cells building up in the hair follicles

There may be open comedones or closed comedones

14

Open vs. Closed Comedones

_____________________________________________, they are a mixture of solidified sebum and dead cell buildup stuck in the follicles

Closed comedones are small bumps just underneath the skin surface

15

Acne

The presence of pimples in oily areas indicates acne

Acne is a disorder in which the follicles become clogged, resulting in infection of the follicle with redness and inflammation

Acne bacteria are _________________________, which means that they cannot survive in the presence of oxygen. Follicles are blocked with solidified sebum and dead-cell buildup, oxygen cannot readily get to the bottom of the follicle where acne bacteria live.

• Acne papules are red pimples that do not have a pus head

Pimples with a pus head are called pustules

Pus is a fluid inside a pustule, largely made up of dead white blood cells that tried to fight the infection

CAUTION – always wear gloves when performing extractions because acne skin contains infectious matter

16

Skin Care Products

Skin care products are classified into 6 main categories:

• ______________________________

• ______________________________

• ______________________________

• ______________________________

• ______________________________

• ______________________________

17

Cleansers

____________________________________________________________________________________

_________________ – are non-foaming lotions. Designed to cleanse _______________________

_____________________ – contain detergents that cause the product to foam and rinse easily. Designed for __________________________. Some have antibacterial ingredients for acne-prone skin

18

Toners

AKA- Freshners or Astringents

_________________________________________

Sometimes contain ingredients to help remove dead cells

Applied with cotton pads or sprayed onto the face

19

Exfoliants

_________________________________________, the skin will look smoother and clearer

Help to clear the skin of clogged pores and can improve the appearance of wrinkles, aging, and hyperpigmentation

2 main categories:

• _________________

• _________________

20

Mechanical Exfoliants

Granular scrubs

Gommage – roll-off masks

_________________________________

Skin brushing

21

Chemical Exfoliant

Either loosen or dissolve dead cell buildup

Can be used for a short time, although some may be worn as a day or night treatment

________________________________________________

Wrinkles appear less deep, skin discolorations fade, clogged pores are loosened and reduced, and new clogged pores are prevented

These acids _____________________________, resulting in firmer and healthier-looking skin

_________________________ which dissolve keratin in the surface cells

22

Proper exfoliation may improve the appearance of the skin in the

following waysReduced clogged and oily skin

Promotes skin smoothness

Increases moisture content and hydration

Reduces hyperpigmentation

Decreases uneven skin color

Eliminates or softens wrinkles and fine lines

Increases elasticity

Speeds up cell turnover

Allows for better penetration of treatment creams and serums

Make-up applies more evenly

23

Moisturizers

Help increase the moisture content of the skin surface

Help the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles

Allows for a smoother make-up application

Protects the skin from environmental damage

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Moisturizers for oily skin contain significantly less emollients

Moisturizers for dry skin contain more emollients and are often heavier

24

Sunscreens

Shield skin from sun exposure

___________________________________ causes the majority of skin cancers, and prematurely ages the skin

Every client should be instructed to use a daily sunscreen. Look for daily moisturizers that contain broad-spectrum sunscreens, which means that they protect against both UVA and UVB sunrays. An SPF-15 or higher is considered to be adequate strength

25

Treatments

Serums or ampoules are ______________________ that generally contain higher amounts of ingredients that have an effect on skin appearance

26

MasksProducts that are ____________________________________________________________________________________

Clay Masks

_________________________________________

make large pores appear smaller.

They may contain sulfur which is an antibacterial ingredient to treat acne-prone skin

Cream Masks

________________________________________

contain emollients and humectants

have a strong moisturizing effect

Gel Masks

____________________________________

help plump surface cells

Alginate Masks

_________________________________________

come in a powder form

dry to a rubberized texture

they create a seal that encourages the skin’s absorption of serums or creams

Paraffin Masks

Apply over creams or serums

____________________________________________________________________________________

Modelage Mask

____________________________________________________________________________________

____________________________________________________________________________________

____________________________________________________________________________________

Not recommended for sensitive skin, oily skin , or blemished skin

34

Massage

• ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

• It is important that when you are giving a massage that you use a firm sure touch

• Keep your hands soft by using creams and lotions. File and shape your nails to avoid scratching your client’s skin

35

Massage Cont’d

• The impact of massage treatment depends on the amount of pressure, the direction of movement, and the duration of each type of manipulation involved

• The direction of movement is always from ______________________

• Massaging a muscle in the wrong direction could result in a loss of resilience and sagging of the skin and muscles

36

Basic Massage Manipulations _____________________

• ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

• _______________________________________________

• Palms work the large surface, while the cushions of the fingertips work the small surfaces

• Used on the forehead, face, scalp, back, shoulder, neck, chest, arms, and hands

• It has soothing and relaxing effects and ________________________________________________________

37

Basic Massage Manipulations _______________________

• ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

• Petrissage offers deeper stimulation to the muscles, nerves and skin glands and improve circulation

• Usually limited to the back, shoulders, and arms

• Digital kneading can also be used on the cheeks with light pinching movements, pressure should be light but firm

• Movements must be rhythmic and never jerky

• Fulling is a form of petrissage in which the tissue is grasped, gently lifted, and spread out, used mainly for massaging the arms

38

Basic Massage Manipulations Friction

• Deep rubbing movement in which you apply pressure on the skin with your fingers or palms while moving it over an underlying structure

• Significant benefit on the circulation and glandular activity of the skin

• Typically used on the scalp, arms, and hands

• Chucking, rolling and wringing are variations of friction, and are used mainly to massage the arms and legs

39

Basic Massage Manipulations _______________________

• ________________________________________________________

• ________________________________________________________

• __________________ and should be applied with care and discretion

• Tone the muscles and impart a healthy glow to the are being massaged

• In facial massage, use only light digital tapping. Bring the fingertips down against the skin in rapid succession

• Hacking is a form of tapotement in which chopping movements are performed with the edges of the hands. Used only to massage the back, shoulders, and arms

40

Basic Massage Manipulations Vibration

• Rapid shaking of the body part while the balls of the fingertips are pressed firmly on the point of application

• A highly relaxing movement that should be applied at the end of the massage

• It increases muscle tone in the muscles of the body

41

Effects of Massage

• To obtain proper results from massage, you must have a thorough knowledge of the structures involved, including muscles, nerves, connective tissues, and blood vessels.

• Every muscle has a _________________________ which is a point on the skin over the muscle where pressure or stimulation will cause contraction of that muscle

• Relaxation is achieved through light but firm, slow, rhythmic movements, or very slow, light hand vibrations over the motor points for a short time. Another technique is to pause briefly over the motor points, using light pressure

4203/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Motor Points

43

Facial Manipulations

• The best manipulations to use on the face are that an even tempo, or rhythm, brings on relaxation

• Do not remove your hands from the client’s face once you have started the manipulations

• _______________________________________________________, then gently replace them with feather-like movements

4403/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Chin Movement

• Lift the chin using a slight pressure

4503/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Lower Cheek

• Using a circular movement, rotate from chin to ears

4603/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Mouth, nose, & cheek

• Follow diagram

4703/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Linear movement over the forehead

• Slide fingers to the temples and then stroke up to hairline, gradually moving your hands across the forehead to the right eyebrow

4803/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Circular movement over the forehead

• Starting at the eyebrow line work across the middle of the forehead and then toward the hairline

4903/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Crisscross Movement

• Start at one side of the forehead and work back

5003/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Stroking

• Slide your fingers towards the center of the forehead and then draw your fingers, with slight pressure, toward the temples and rotate

5103/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Brow and eye movement

• Place your middle fingers at the inner corners of the eyes and your index fingers over the brows. Slide them towards the outer corners of the eyes, under the eyes, and then back to the inner corners

5203/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Nose and upper cheek movement

• Slide your fingers down the nose. Apply a rotary movement across the cheeks to the temples and rotate gently. Slide your fingers under the eyes and then back to the bridge of the nose

5303/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Mouth and nose movement

• Apply a circular movement from the corners of the mouth up to the sides of the nose. Slide your fingers over the brows and then down to the corners of the mouth up to the sides of the nose. Follow by sliding your fingers over the brows and down to the corners of the mouth again

5403/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Mouth & Nose Movement

5503/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Lip and chin movement

• From the center of the upper lip, draw your fingers around the mouth, going under the lower lip and chin

5603/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Optional Movement

• Hold the head with your left hand, and draw the fingers of your right hand from under the lower lip and around mouth, moving to the center of the upper lip

5703/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Lifting movement of the cheeks

• Proceed from the mouth to the ears and then from the nose to the top part of the ears

5803/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Rotary Movement of the cheeks

• Massage from the chin to the ear lobes, from the mouth to the middle of the ears, and from the nose to the top of the ears

5903/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Light tapping movement

• Work from the chin to the earlobe, from the mouth to the ear, from the nose to the top of the ear, and then across the forehead. Repeat on the other side

6003/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Stroking movement of the neck

• Apply light upward strokes over the front of the neck. Use heavier pressure on the sides of the neck in downward strokes

6103/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Circular movement over the neck and chest

• Starting at the back of the ears, apply a circular movement down the side of the neck, over the shoulders, and across the chest

62

Male Skin

• Not all that different from female skin

• Needs more attention in the areas of the face where there is hair growth

• _________________________________________

Facial Equipment - Magnifying Lamp

used to analyze skin

64

Facial Equipment - Steamer

• Helps to soften the tissue, making it more accepting of moisturizers and other treatment products.

• Steam also helps to relax and soften follicle accumulations such as comedones and clogged follicles, making them easier to extract

• Precautions should be taken with clients who have asthma or other breathing disorders

65

Facial Equipment – Brushing Machine

• Rotating electrical appliance with interchangeable brushes that can be attached to the rotating head.

• Larger and stiffer brushes are used for back treatments

• Smaller softer brushes are used for the face

• ________________________________________________

• Administered after steaming

• _________________________________________________ should be applied so the brushes will not scratch the face

• Brushes must be thoroughly cleansed and disinfected between clients

Facial Brushing Machine

67

Facial Equipment – Suction & Spray

• The skin suction machine increases circulation

• spray machine can be used on any type skin to deliver lotions or toners

Electrodes

Electrode – ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Anode – positive electrode usually red or indicated by a + sign

Cathode – negative electrode usually black or indicated by a - sign

Electrotherapy

• __________________________________________

• Galvanic & High Frequency most frequently used

• Desincrustation – ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________

• Iontophoresis – process of using galvanic current to ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Galvanic

• Current forces the product deeper into the follicle

• Current also produces a chemical reaction that helps to loosen the impacted sebum.

Microcurrent

*______________________________________

*Best know for helping tone skin & produce a lifting effect for aging skin that lacks elasticity

Tesla High Frequency

• ___________________________________________________________________________________

• Can be applied after extractions for acne prone skin b/c of its germicidal effects

• Electrodes are made of glass and contain various types of gas such as neon and argon, which light up as a color when current is flowing through them

Light Therapy

• Using light exposure to treat conditions of the skin

• ________________________________________________________

• Concentrated light that flashes very rapidly

• Red Light – treats aging and redness

• Blue Light – treats acne-prone skin

Microdermabrasion

• A type of mechanical exfoliation uses a closed vacuum to shoot aluminum-oxide crystals onto the skin, bumping off cell buildup that is then vacuumed up by a suction

• It is primarily used to treat wrinkles and aging skin

Extractions

Facial Treatments

• Fall into two categories

• _________________________________________ by cleansing correctly, increasing circulation, relaxing the nerves, and activating the skin glands and metabolism through massage

• _________________________________________, such as dryness, oiliness, comedones, aging lines, and monor conditions of acne

Preparation

• Set up your room for client, have all your supplies, bed made, soft music, light candle

• Wash your hands

• Greet client

• Conduct consultation

• Show client to dressing room

• Assist client onto the facial table

• Drape the clients head

• Wash your hands

• Place cotton over their eyes and examine skin under magnifying lamp

• Apply cotton pads with eye-make remover over the clients eyes

• Use cotton pad with make-up remover to cleanse clients lips

• Gently stroke the eyes to remove make-up

• Apply cleanser and use sweeping movements to cleanse the skin in upward motions

• Remove cleanser

• Analyze skin to determine the rest of the products to be used for facial

Facial Procedure

• Optional – eyebrow arching

• Steam the face

• Perform extractions

• Exfoliate

• Remove exfoliant

• Massage the face using all facial manipulations

• Remove massage cream

• Apply mask

• Remove mask

• Apply toner

• Apply specialty serums / eye creams

• Apply moisturizer

Clean Up & Sanitation

• Remove head covering and show client to dressing room

• Discard all disposable supplies

• Close product containers tightly

• Place used linens in the hamper

• Sanitize your workstation

• Disinfect your tools

• Wash your hands

• Meet your client and take them to the reception area where you should discuss their home care system, make sure that you provide them with written instructions to take home