Knots 1 of 10

Basic Knots for new climbers

• Water knot

• Double Fisherman knot

• Figure 8 loop

• Rewoven figure 8•• Butterfly knot

• Double Bowline

• Clove hitch

• Girth hitch

• Munter hitch

• Prusik knot

Knots 2 of 10

Water Knot or Tape Knot

The Water Knot AKA Tape Knot. This knot is used to join two ropes or two tape endstogether. When used with tape, the knot is called a tape knot. This knot is the mostpopular way to join tape to make sling, runner or QuickDraw from tape. The water knotcan be used to join two ropes.

Knots 3 of 10

Double Fisherman's Knot:

Despite the uptake of knots like the overhand for tying two ropes together, the doublefisherman's remains the safest way to do this in the climbing environment. It is also theonly knot to use to join ropes of different diameters as it is resistant to the unequalstretching in the ropes that this can induce.

1. Start the Double Fisherman's Knot by tying a double overhand around the firstrope.

With the end of the first rope, tie a double overhand around the second rope.Tighten the knots evenly.

2. Pull the two ropes so the knots come together. This is the Double Fisherman'sKnot.

Knots 4 of 10

Figure Eight Loop

The figure-eight loop is a good knot to have in yourbag of tricks. How do you make it? Happily, thename tells you almost everything you need toknow. Just grab hold of the bight of your rope, forma loop and bring it back over the doubled line. Nowtuck the loop under, and then thread it round anddown through the resulting eye. Pull the knot taut.

Then there is the Figure 8 ½ Loop

This is the same knot but with an extra twist!

Knots 5 of 10

Rewoven Figure Eight

This knot starts out as a simple figure-8 and then the knot is retraced along the samepath with the other end of rope. It can be used to tie two ropes together or to tie into theend of a rope.

The Rewoven Eight is just as strong and secure as the Double Fishermans but is moreeasy to untie. It is very similar to the figure eight follow through climbers use for tyinginto the rope when climbing. The only difference is that it is rewoven starting from theopposite side of the knot. A very strong and secure knot with the only disadvantagesbeing its high profile bulk that can be caught in cracks when pulling the rope.

Knots 6 of 10

Alpine Butterfly or Butterfly Loop or Butterfly Knot or Lineman's Loop

Knots 7 of 10

Double Bowline

A double bowline is a type of knot. It is more secure loop than a regular bowline.

Tying: First, learn to tie the bowline by laying the working end on the standing part andtwisting to form a loop (the "hole" that the rabbit comes out of). Wrap the loop oncemore around the working end. Then pass the working end behind the standing part andback down through the double loop.

The double bowline is one of two typical tie-in knots used in climbing, along with theFigure-of-eight knot. The advantage of the double bowline over the figure 8 is it iseasier to untie after being weighted in a fall.

The double bowline is commonly used by sport climbers who take multiple lead fallsand then have trouble untying their figure eights. The disadvantage of the doublebowline is that it is more likely to come untied than a figure eight knot. This is especiallytrue for newer ropes. For this reason, climbers should not tie in with a double bowlinewithout also backing it up with a stopper knot

Knots 8 of 10

Clove Hitch

The clove hitch is a type of knot. It consists of two identical half hitches madesuccessively around an object. It is most effective used as a crossing knot. Although itcan be used as a binding knot, it is not particularly secure in that role.[1] A clove hitchmade around the standing part of the line is known as either Two half-hitches orBuntline hitch, depending on whether half-hitches progress away or towards the hitchedobject.

Used as a traditional hitch, that is loading only one end, the clove hitch is liable to slip. Itrequires a load in each direction in order to be effective, such as when being used as acrossing knot. It should not be relied on with rope that is thin or very slippery, as it canwork itself loose, especially under a swinging or rotating load. It can also jam andbecome difficult to untie under some situations.

To tie a clove hitch, first place a loop around the pole, with the working end of the ropeon top. Run the working end round the pole once more until you meet the place wherethe ropes cross, then pass the working end under the cross. Pull to tighten

Knots 9 of 10

Girth Hitch

The Girth Hitch is a standard knot used to attach a loop (sling or rope) to some anchor

Munter Hitch

This knot is useful for both assailing and belaying. It's advisable to use a pear-shapedlocking carabineer, and try to avoid cross-loading it. The knot will "flip" as oppositestrands of the rope are pulled, this is normal. To lock the knot, apply the braking handby moving the slack line parallel with the loaded line.

Knots 10 of 10

Prusik Knot

The Prusik Knot is used to ascend a climbing rope using a smaller cord. The smallercord is tied using the double fisherman's knot. The knot is tied by wrapping the loopedcord around the climbing rope to create friction when weight is applied. When weight isreleased the prusik loosens so it can be slid up the rope.

1. Begin the Prusik Knot by connecting the ends of a smaller diameter cord using theFishermans Knot. Put the looped cord behind the loop it is being tied to. Adjust the cordso the knot does not go to the end.

2 3 4

2. Pass the end with the knot through the loop three times. At this point you can addmore winds or turns around the climbing rope to create more friction as necessary. 3. Pass the end with the knot under the opposite side's loop. Do not let the windsoverlap. Tighten the knot evenly. 4. Tighten and work the cord until it is cinched tight as shown. This is the completedPrusik Knot. -30-