the best of brazil -...

The Best of Brazil

There’s a joke Brazilians like to tell: When the world was created, one of thearchangels peered over God’s shoulder at the work in progress and couldn’t help notic-ing that one country had been especially favored. “You’ve given everything to Brazil,”the archangel said. “It has the longest beaches, the largest river, the biggest forest, thebest soil. The weather’s always warm and sunny, with no floods, hurricanes, or natu-ral disasters at all. Don’t you think that’s a little unfair?” “Ah,” God replied, “just waituntil you see the people I’m putting there.”

Accuracy rarely comes with a punch line, but there’s a significant grain of truth inthat tale. Brazil as a nation is unusually blessed. Five thousand miles of coastline—some of it packed with cafes and partygoers, but long stretches blissfully empty. Rain-forests and wetlands teem with exotic critters. Some of the oldest cities and civicarchitecture in the New World (and one of the newest cities in the entire world) arehere. Restaurants match the snobbiest standards, with regional cuisines that have yetto be discovered in culinary capitals like New York or L.A. Music lovers could makeBrazil a lifetime study. And let’s not forget a little thing called Carnaval.

And about those Brazilians: They work as hard as anyone in the First World, andmany a good deal harder. In recent years Brazil has devoted time and resources toimproving its tourism infrastructure, reflected in the new airports, hotels, and innsthat have sprung up around the country. Yet no one could accuse Brazilians of wor-shiping efficiency. They’d much rather get along than get things done; the goal is,above all, harmony. Harmony can mean an entire Sunday spent watching soccer orafternoons off for quality time with your buddies at the beach. It can mean countlesshours of effort for a single night’s party. But above all, harmony mandates never tak-ing anything all that seriously. And at this, Brazilians excel. Read on to discover someof the best this country has to offer.

1

• Attend Carnaval in Rio: The biggestparty in the world. Whether youdance in the streets, watch thousandsparticipate with their elaborate cos-tumes in the samba parade, or attendthe fairy-tale Copacabana Palace ball,it’s the one event not to miss! Seechapters 2 and 5.

• Watch a Soccer Game at MaracanãStadium: Nothing can prepare you fora game at the largest stadium in the

world. Up to 100,000 fans sing, dance,and drum for hours in one of thebiggest parties in town. See chapter 5.

• Get to Know Pelourinho: The his-toric center of Salvador is a treasure ofbaroque churches, colorful colonialarchitecture, steep cobblestone streets,and large squares. See chapter 9.

• Hear the Drummers in Pelô: At nightthe historic heart of Salvador comesalive with music. Most impressive are

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BRAZIL FOR NATURE LOVERS Days 1 & 2: Rio de JaneiroDays 3–6: PantanalDays 7–12: AmazonDays 13–16: Fernando de NoronhaDays 17 & 18: Iguaçu Falls

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C H A P T E R 1 . B R A Z I L6

Brazil

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T H E M O S T U N F O R G E T TA B L E T R AV E L E X P E R I E N C E S 7

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the Blocos Afro, the all-percussionbands that create a rhythm and beatwith their drums so intense it sendsshivers down your spine. See chapter 9.

• Herd Water Buffalo in Marajó: Thebuffalo ranches on this island in themouth of the Amazon offer city slick-ers a unique cowboy experience. Rid-ing out on horseback, visitors toFazenda Sanjo help round up thewater buffalo herd and bring it backto the ranch. See chapter 14.

• Watch the Sunset Over the LençóisMaranhenses: The magical snow-white dunes interlaced with strings ofturquoise, blue, and green lagoonsmake one of the most spectacularsights in all of Brazil. See chapter 13.

• Kayak in the Amazon: To explorethe rainforest in depth, nothing beatsa slow descent of an Amazon tribu-tary; the kayak provides the freedomto view the rainforest at leisure,guides explain the workings of thisecosystem, and cooks prepare meals ofdelicious Amazon fish. See chapter 14.

• Wildlife Viewing on Horseback inthe Pantanal: Richer in birdlife byfar than the Amazon, but far toosoggy to hike, the wet fields of thePantanal are best explored on horse-back. And if you like it fast, there’snothing like galloping through thefields, as a flurry of colorful birdsscatter and caiman scurry off under-foot. See chapter 17.

• Admire the Modernist Architectureof Brasilia: Built from scratch in amatter of years on the red soil of thedry cerrado, Brasilia is an oasis ofmodernism in Brazil’s interior. Marvelat the clean lines and functional formsand admire some of the best public artin the country. See chapter 15.

• Get Drenched at Amazing IguaçuFalls: These falls consist of 275cataracts along a 2.5km (11⁄2-mile)stretch of the Iguaçu River. The water’spower mesmerizes as you stare into theroiling cauldrons. See chapter 16.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F B R A Z I L8

• Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro: Yes, this isone of the most urban beaches in theworld, but it’s still one of the country’sprime tanning spots. The long stretchof white sand is perfect for observingthe tan and lovely (male and femalealike). Or watch a game of volleyballwhile having a beer and some freshseafood; if you feel like it, go for aswim or a stroll. See chapter 5.

• Boipeba, Bahia: The perfect islandgetaway, Boipeba makes Morro deSão Paulo seem busy and hectic. Justsouth of Morro, Boipeba offers glori-ous empty beaches framed by rowsand rows of palm trees. At Boca daBarra, where the river Inferno meetsthe ocean, huge sand banks appear atlow tide. You can choose whether to

swim on the freshwater side or play insalty ocean. See chapter 9.

• Porto de Galinhas, Pernambuco:Development in Porto de Galinhashas been kept resolutely small-scale.No high-rises mar the unpretentioustown of Porto de Galinhas, whichboasts perhaps four streets—enoughfor a dozen restaurants, a bank, somesurf shops, and a beachside bar ortwo. See chapter 10.

• Ponta Negra, Manaus: Not an oceanbeach but a river beach, Ponta Negra,on the shores of Rio Negro, is themost popular tanning spot in the dryseason. All the standard beach accou-terments are present, including ven-dors plying food, drinks, andsouvenirs. Beach kiosks serve up

2 The Best Beaches

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snacks until the wee hours. See chap-ter 14.

• Fernando do Noronha: The islandarchipelago of Fernando do Noronhahas so many spectacular beaches, it’shard to single out just one. Praia doLeão offers wild crashing surf and seaturtle hatchings in season. The mostgorgeously secluded is Praia da Baíado Sancho, a crescent of red sand onshimmering clear blue water that canonly be reached by clambering downa rickety iron ladder through a chasmin the cliff side. See chapter 18.

• Praia Mole, Florianópolis: PraiaMole is one of the most popularbeaches on the beautiful southernisland of Santa Catarina (aka Flori-anópolis). Perfectly white fluffy sand,lush green vegetation, and rocky out-crops give the beach an isolated, par-adisiacal feel. Yet, the strand isanything but quiet, packed with abohemian crowd of locals fromFloripa, yuppie tourists, surfers, gayand gay-friendly sunbathers, andfamilies. See chapter 19.

T H E B E S T O U T D O O R A D V E N T U R E S 9

• Hang Gliding in Rio: Running offthe edge of a platform with nothingbetween you and the ground 800m(2,624 ft.) below requires a leap offaith, so to speak, but once you do,the views of the rainforest andbeaches are so enthralling that youalmost forget about the ground untilyour toes touch the sand at São Con-rado beach. See chapter 5.

• Hike or Bike the Chapada Diaman-tina: These highlands inland fromSalvador have rock formations similarto the buttes and mesas of the Ameri-can Southwest. They also have water-falls and natural waterslides of smoothred marble, plus lots of great hikingand biking trails. See chapter 9.

• Canoeing the Amazon: Just you anda canoe in the jungle. Your sensesheighten as you listen to the soundsof the forest, watch for splashes in thewater, and peer into the trees to findbirds, sloths, and monkeys. See chap-ter 14.

• Tree Climbing in the Amazon For-est: Get off the river and delve intothe forest. Most visitors only see thetrees from the bottom up. Actuallyclimbing into the tree will give you a

whole new perspective on the forestand its ecosystem. See chapter 14.

• Swimming in the Lençóis Maran-henses: The end of the rainy seasonsignals the best time of year to visit thedunes at Lençóis National Park. Juneto October, the dunes are full of crys-tal-clear freshwater lagoons. A swim isthe best reward for hiking through thedesert of dunes. See chapter 13.

• Swimming in the Waterfalls ofChapada dos Guimarães: The red-rock formations of this minicanyonhide some spectacular waterfalls nes-tled in small stands of lush tropicalforest. With dozens and dozens offalls and trails, it’s not hard to findone all for yourself. See chapter 17.

• Riding a beach buggy from Natalto Fortaleza: The long coast fromNatal to Fortaleza is one of the lastplaces on earth with hundreds ofkilometers of unobstructed sand.Make the 4-day journey by dunebuggy and never once leave thebeach, exploring vast towering dunesalong the way. See chapter 11.

• Diving in Fernando de Noronha:Brazil’s best diving is found on thissmall archipelago off the coast of

3 The Best Outdoor Adventures

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Pernambuco. See dolphins, turtles,manta rays, and lots of underwatercaves. Crowds are limited, because

only 420 visitors are allowed on theisland at a time. See chapter 18.


• Go, Turtles, Go! (Bahia): From mid-February to April you have a goodchance to watch turtle hatchings atPraia do Forte Tamar’s turtle project.See how these tiny sea turtles crawlout of the egg, and cheer them on asthey waddle to the ocean for theirfirst swim. See chapter 9.

* Bird Spotting in the Pantanal: Evenif you’re not a birder, the Pantanal hashundreds of species to spot, some asbig as your little brother, others as col-orful as Carnaval. Plus hungry caimanand giant river otters, and sometimeseven jaguar, all of it best viewed fromhorseback. See chapter 17.

• Caiman Spotting (the Amazon):Spotting caiman (alligators native toSouth America) involves setting outin a canoe after the sun has set. Boat-ing through the dark Amazon forestis quite an experience, but nothingquite prepares you for the sight ofthose caiman eyes that light up in thebeam of the spotlight. See chapter 14.

• Butterflies in Iguaçu: Everyone talksabout the falls; few mention the

butterflies. The lush rainforest pro-vides the perfect environment formany colorful species, and every-where you go lovely butterflies areaflutter. Hard to miss is the metallic-blue Morpho butterfly; it’s about thesize of your hand. See chapter 16.

• Sea Horses in Porto de Galinhas:The roots of the mangroves in Portode Galinhas are home to one of themost magical sea creatures, the seahorse. Guides dive in the water to lookfor these delicate animals and are usu-ally successful in scooping one up (lit-erally, in a glass jar). Once you havehad a chance to learn a little bit moreabout the animal it goes back into itsnatural habitat. See chapter 10.

• Red Araras (the Pantanal): The sun-set over the red-rock formations inthe Chapada dos Guimarães, north ofCuiabá, is a magical experience initself. Even more special is the view ofscarlet macaws working the thermalsoff the sheer cliffs in the warm glowof the setting sun. See chapter 17.

4 The Best Encounters with Wildlife

• Museu Internacional de Arte Naifdo Brasil (Rio de Janeiro; & 021/2205-8612; www.museunaif.com.br): Don’t miss this little museum,just a few hundred yards from theCorcovado tram station. The practi-tioners of naive art (also called prim-itive or ingénue art) paint from theheart, creating colorful and expressivedrawings. Visitors will recognizemany popular scenes from Cariocas’daily life—a soccer game at the Mara-canã stadium, the samba parade, the

beaches, and neighborhood cafes. Seep. 102.

• Museu de Arte Sacra (Mariana; & 031/3557-3259: One of the bestcollections of sacred art in Brazil canbe found in the small town of Mari-ana, just outside of Ouro Prêto. Thevast collection of impressive gold andsilver works is displayed in a gorgeousold colonial mansion. See p. 175.

• Monument to Latin America (SãoPaulo; & 011/3823-4600; www.memorial.org.br): Designed by famed

5 The Best Museums

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Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer,the monument is, well, so Niemeyer—shy of a visit to Brasilia, it’s the bestplace to see Brazilian modernism inall its concrete austerity. See p. 210.

• Museum of the Portuguese Lan-guage (São Paulo; & 011/3326-0775; www.museudalinguaportuguesa.org.br). Who would have thoughtyou could make a whole museumabout so esoteric a topic? Who wouldhave thought you could make it soengaging? Among other displays, themuseum features a 100m-long (328-ft.) wall-size screen showing imagesand clips that illustrate words uniqueto Portuguese. Unique and unforget-table. See p. 210.

• Pinacoteca do Estado (São Paulo; & 011/3229-9844): The Pinacoteca

in São Paulo is the place to come foranyone who wants to see Brazilianart. The museum has an excellent col-lection of Brazilian art from the 19thand 20th centuries, including worksby Alfredo Ceschiatti, the artist whodesigned many of the sculptures inBrasilia. See p. 215.

• Museu de Arte Sacra (Salvador; & 071/3243-6310): One of thefinest museums in Salvador, the ArteSacra displays one of Brazil’s best col-lections of Catholic art. The artifactsare shown in the monastery adjoiningthe Igreja de Santa Teresa, a simple,beautiful building that is itself a workof art. The collection includes oilpaintings, oratorios (small cabinetscontaining a crucifix or saint image),and amazing silver work. See p. 255.

T H E B E S T F E S T I VA L S & C E L E B R AT I O N S 11

Well, Carnaval—that’s an obvious choice(and already covered under “The MostUnforgettable Travel Experiences,” above).Here are some other favorites:

• Reveillon/New Year’s Celebration(Rio de Janeiro): Close to two millionpeople gather for one of the mostspectacular New Year’s celebrations inthe world. It starts on the evening ofDecember 31 and continues well intothe morning of January 1. The mainevent takes place on CopacabanaBeach—live music, fireworks, andthe muted Candomblé religious cere-monies. For details contact Riotur(& 021/2217-7575; www.rio.rj.gov.br/riotur) or Alô Rio (& 021/2542-8080). See chapter 5.

• Washing of the Steps of BonfimChurch (Salvador): One of the mostimportant religious ceremonies inSalvador takes place on the thirdThursday of January when hundredsof women in traditional Bahian dressform a procession and carry per-fumed water to wash the church

steps; 800,000 onlookers and revelersaccompany them. For details contactBahiatursa (& 071/3321-2463; www.bahiatursa.ba.gov.br). See chapter 9.

• Celebration of Yemanjá, the God-dess of the Sea (Salvador): On February 2, watch the devoteesthroughout Brazil offer flowers, per-fumes, and jewelry to the sea. It’s cel-ebrated on the beach with music andfood. The largest celebration takesplace in Salvador on Praia Vermelha.For details contact Bahiatursa (& 071/3321-2463; www.bahiatursa.ba.gov.br). See chapter 9.

• Bumba-meu-boi (São Luis): A partythat gets the whole city involved, theBumba-meu-boi is a fascinating folkfestival centered around the story of abull that gets killed and resurrected.The festivities take place over severalmonths as there are several stages toeach part of the story. Contact theSão Luis Tourist Office for details onwhat happens when (& 081/3462-4960). See chapter 13.

6 The Best Festivals & Celebrations

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• The Passion Play (Nova Jerusalem,near Recife): South America’s largestpassion play takes place at NovaJerusalem, just outside of Recife inthe Northeast of Brazil. Performances

are daily in the 10 days leading up toEaster. For details contact RecifeTourist Information (& 081/3462-4960 or 081/3341-6090). See p. 309.


• Hotel Sofitel (Rio de Janeiro; & 0800/241-232 or 021/2525-1232): Considered Rio’s best hotel,the Sofitel combines old-world ele-gance and style with one of the city’sbest locations, across from theCopacabana Fort and steps fromIpanema. See p. 68.

• Fasano (Rio de Janeiro; & 021/3202-4000; www.fasano.com.br)The first-ever complete hotel—top tobottom, inside and out—designed bythe famous enfant terrible of thedesign world Phillippe Starck. Roomsand lobby are lovely. The rooftoppool deck is a masterpiece. See p. 64.

• Convento do Carmo (Salvador; & 071/3327-8400; www.pousadas.pt). A 17th-century convent in thevery heart of a 17th-century city,restored to 21st-century luxury.Unforgettable. See p. 240.

• Marina All Suites Hotel (Rio deJaneiro; & 021/2172-1100): TheMarina All Suites is Rio’s first designhotel; all suites are luxuriously fur-nished. The two-bedroom oceanviewDiamante suite is surely the city’smost beautiful suite. See p. 65.

• Portinari (Rio de Janeiro; & 021/3222-8800): Designed by eight dif-ferent Brazilian designers and archi-tects, the hotel offers a wonderfulshowcase of Brazilian style and inven-tiveness; everything from the furni-ture to the lighting and accessories isunique. Best of all, this style doesn’tget in the way of comfort. See p. 69.

• Colonna Park Hotel (Búzios; & 022/2623-2245): On a hillside overlook-ing two beaches in Búzios, Colonna

Park has one of the best views in town.The elegantly furnished rooms aredone in cool blue and white, and thebest room in the house has a deck withviews of both beaches. See p. 157.

• Unique (São Paulo; & 011/3055-4700): Extraordinary high-designrooms and suites feature the cleanest-of-clean white-on-white decor, lus-cious bedding, sparkling bathroomswith Jacuzzi tubs, a plethora of roomgadgets, plus a rooftop view of theAvenida Paulista’s power skyscrapersand lush green Ibirapuera park. See p. 200.

• Tropical Manaus (Manaus; & 0800/701-2670 or 092/3659-5000): TheTropical Manaus is without a doubtthe hotel in town. Set in its own pieceof rainforest on the banks of the RioNegro, the hotel is built in an elegantcolonial style. Rooms are spacious,and the amenities are top-notch;archery lessons, a zoo, wakeboard les-sons, a wave pool, salon, and moreawait you in the middle of the Ama-zon. See p. 373.

• Bourbon Cataratas (Foz do Iguaçu;& 0800/451-010 or 045/3521-3900: Make sure you don’t forget tosee the falls! The Bourbon Hotel hasplenty to keep you busy. Over 3km (2miles) of trails through orchards andtree nurseries are the perfect place towatch for toucans, butterflies, andparrots. The pool deck has three largepools to soak up those rays or anindoor wave pool and spa for a drearyday. Active types can play a game oftennis, try the climbing wall, andplay volleyball or soccer. See p. 433.

7 The Best Hotels

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• Pousada do Mondego (Ouro Prêto;& 031/3551-2040): Wake up to theunforgettable view of Ouro Prêto’smost famous church, São Franciscode Assis, just outside your window.Early in the morning the surroundinghills are often shrouded in mist. Seep. 172.

• Solar da Ponte (Tiradentes; & 032/3355-1255): In the heart of Tira-dentes, one the most charming colo-nial villages, Pousada Solar da Ponteis a real retreat. The spacious antiquefurnished rooms look out over thecobblestone streets. The lovely gar-den, library, and sitting rooms areperfect for a relaxing day. A yummybreakfast is served in the dining roomoverlooking the garden. See p. 178.

• Pousada Santa Clara (Boipeba; & 075/3653-6085): For a romanticgetaway or just a few days of blissfulrelaxation, there’s no place betterthan this lovely pousada, on the smallisland of Boipeba south of Morro deSão Paulo. Each room is uniquelydecorated, and many feature averanda and large windows lookingout over the lush tropical garden. Thenearly deserted beach is only 5 min-utes away, if you walk slowly. See p. 286.

• Pousada do Amparo (Olinda; & 081/3439-1749): In the heart of Olinda’sold town, Pousada do Amparo is aperfectly restored 18th-century house.

Set on a hillside, the views from therooms and back deck of Olinda, theocean below, and Recife in the back-ground are amazing. Elegantly fur-nished in period style, the pousada isa real labor of love of the owners. Seep. 303.

• Tabapitanga (Porto de Galinhas; & 081/3552-1037): The oceanfrontrooms of Tabapitanga are so close tothe beach that light sleepers maywant to close their veranda doors tokeep the sound of the waves out. Allrooms feature bright and cheerful art-work, king-size beds, and a verandawith hammock and lazy chair. See p. 320.

• Manary Praia Hotel (Natal; & 084/3204-2900): On the beach of PontaNegra in Natal, the Manary Praiaoffers luxurious and comfortableaccommodations. The hacienda-stylemansion is an excellent home base forexploring some of the best beaches inthe Northeast. See p. 326.

• Araras Eco Lodge (Pantanal; & 065/3682-2800): This lodge is the best inthe Pantanal for wildlife viewing andexperiencing the lifestyle of the pan-taneiro cowboy. Accommodations arerustic but the quality of guides, theamazing food, and unparalleledwildlife are worth it. The owner has ahistory of environmental work in theregion and runs an excellent pro-gram. See p. 445.

8 The Best Pousadas

• Experiencing Feijoada, the Nation-al Dish: It’s impossible to single outone restaurant in all of Brazil for itsfeijoada. Just try it and try it right.Start with a caipirinha (that potent,delicious lime and sugar-cane drink)and some caldo (soup), followed bysteaming hot black beans with all the

various meats. Side dishes includefarofa, cabbage, orange slices, andwhite rice. Dab some malagueta pep-pers on the beans for an extra kick.

• Street Food: Whether you wantprawns, chicken, tapioca pancakes,coconut sweets, or corn on the cob, itcan all be purchased on the street for

9 The Best Dining Experiences

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next to nothing. Don’t be afraid to trysome of the best snacks that Brazilhas to offer.

• All Beef, All the Time: Rodíziochurrascarias are all-you-can-eat meatorgies. The best cuts of beef areserved up one after another; try oneor two, or try them all. As long as youcan take it they dish it out. Ourfavorite is surely picanha, the lean,tender rump steak—it will melt inyour mouth. One of the country’smost popular restaurants is Porcão, anationwide chain. Their flagshiplocation is in Rio’s Flamengo neigh-borhood (& 021/2554-8535), withviews of the bay and SugarloafMountain. See p. 81.

• Colonial Coffee in Rio: For themost elegant coffee experience, visitConfeitaria Colombo (& 021/2221-0107). This 19th-century BelleEpoque establishment is one of themost beautiful salons in all of Brazil.See p. 77.

• Italian Cuisine in São Paulo: Forsome of the best Italian food in theworld (well, outside of Italy), head toSão Paulo’s Fasano (& 011/3062-4000) (&). The city’s immigrantshave created delicious new-worldinterpretations of some old-worldclassics. See p. 204.

• Moquecas in Salvador: You can’t sayyou’ve been to Salvador without try-ing moqueca, the tasty stew of freshseafood with coconut milk, limejuice, cilantro, and red dendê palm oil. Try Jardim das Delicias(& 071/3321-1449) See p. 245.

• Fine Dining in Porto de Galinhas:Beijupirá (& 081/3552-2354), in asmall resort town in Brazil’s North-east, is perhaps one of the most pleas-ant little restaurants in the country.The decorations are whimsical andrustic, the food an inspired Braziliancuisine that makes use of freshseafood, tropical fruits, and spices.See p. 321.

• The Regional Cuisine of Belém:Located in the Tropics, on the Ama-zon River but at the mouth of theocean, Belém has access to a richerassortment of ingredients than almostanywhere else in Brazil. Local chefsmake the most of the variety. Forregional cuisine, try Lá em Casa (& 091/3424-4222). See p. 402.

• Eating Fish in the Pantanal: Any-where in the Pantanal you can try thephenomenal bounty of the world’slargest flood plain. Paçu, dourado, andpintado are just a few of the bestcatches. In Cuiabá, visit PeixariaPopular (& 065/3322-5471). See p. 444.

• Feirarte (Rio de Janeiro): This craftsmarket on Rio’s most historic squarefeatures a range of artists showcasingtheir handiwork. There are leather-work, ceramics, glass, and silver, notto mention food and drink standsand less-talented vendors with moretouristy souvenirs. See p. 130.

• Antiques Fair (São Paulo): EverySunday from 10am to 5pm there’s anantiques fair in the open space

beneath the MASP building onAvenida Paulista. Dealers are regis-tered, and the quality of the wares isoften good. See p. 211.

• Japanese Market (São Paulo): Oneof the largest Asian street marketstakes place every Sunday on thePraça da Liberdade (next to theLiberdade Metrô stop) in São Paulo’sLiberdade neighborhood. The city’sJapanese residents celebrate their

10 The Best Markets

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heritage with an excellent and inex-pensive selection of Japanese cuisineand arts and crafts. See p. 211.

• Mercado Modelo (Salvador; & 071/3243-6543): Souvenir junkies willthink they’ve died and gone toheaven. In the former Customsbuilding, this market has around 300merchants selling a large variety ofsouvenirs: leather goods, hammocks,instruments, masks, carvings, paint-ings, lace, terra-cotta figurines, andjewelry. See p. 256.

• Mercado Adolpho Lisboa (Manaus;& 092/3233-0469): This beautiful

iron-and-glass market hall is a greatplace to see exotic Amazonian fish,fruits, and vegetables. A number ofstalls have indigenous handicrafts atreasonable prices. See p. 378.

• The Ver-o-Peso Market (Belém; nophone): The Ver-o-Peso is a vastwaterside cornucopia of outrageouslystrange Amazon fish, hundreds ofspecies of Amazon fruits foundnowhere else, traditional medicinelove potions, and just about anythingelse produced in the Amazon, all of itcheap, cheap, cheap. See p. 405.

• Arco do Teles (Rio de Janeiro):Tucked away in an alley just off thePraça XV, the Arco de Teles revealsperfectly preserved colonial buildingsset on narrow cobblestone streets,lined with restaurants and cafes. Withover 15 bars and botequins it doesn’tmatter which one you pick; walkaround and see what’s doing. If youget there after 10pm you’ll be luckyto find a seat at all. See p. 139.

• Centro Cultural Carioca (Rio deJaneiro; & 021/2242-9642; www.centroculturalcarioca.com.br): Thisbeautifully restored building from the1920s hosts local musicians and bignames who specialize in samba,MPB, choro, and gafieira. The roomis cozy and intimate, and guests sit atsmall tables to watch the shows. Seep. 136.

• Carioca da Gema (Rio de Janeiro; & 021/2221-0043): One of thehottest nightspots in the samba-richsector of Lapa, Carioca da Gemaoffers some of the finest pagode andsamba. Just steps from the Lapa aque-duct, Carioca da Gema is one of themany small music venues in thisfunky bohemian neighborhood. The

best night to come is Thursday. See p. 136.

• Rua das Pedras (Búzios): The hottestbeach resort close to Rio, Búzios isthe place to go if you’re on a missionto party. Nightlife central is on theRua das Pedras where the pubs, bars,discos, and restaurants stay open onweekends until 3 or 4am. One of themost popular spots is the Mexicanbar and disco Zapata, very busy dur-ing vacations and weekends. See p. 159.

• Skye (São Paulo; & 011/3055-4702):One of the city’s trendiest bars, Skyealso comes with one of the best viewsin the city. On the Unique Hotel’stop floor, the bar’s large glass win-dows and pool deck offer spectacularskyline views of South America’slargest city. See p. 208.

• Rabo do Peixe (São Paulo; & 011/3845-2296): If there is such a thingas a typical Brazilian pub, this is it.On a street corner, the patio fans outon all sides, and tables are packedevery day. A great spot to kick offyour evening with a cold beer and thebest picanha in town. See p. 232.

11 The Best Nightlife

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• Pelourinho (Salvador): Many nightsof the week Pelourinho transformsitself into one big music venue. Twoof the most popular venues are thePraça Quincas Berro D’Agua and theLargo Pedro Archanjo. At the Praçado Reggae, there’s always reggae play-ing. See chapter 9.

• The Reviver (São Luis): Now that it’sbeen brought back to life, the historic

downtown of São Luis has a newname—Reviver. It’s packed with barsand restaurants that center aroundthe Rua da Estrela. One of prettiest isAntigamente (& 098/3232-3964).Most tables spread out on the side-walk and there’s live music everyevening. See p. 356.


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