The Best of Brazil

There’s a joke Brazilians like to tell: When the world was created, one of thearchangels peered over God’s shoulder at the work in progress and couldn’t helpnoticing that one country had been especially favored. “You’ve given everythingto Brazil,” the archangel said. “It has the longest beaches, the largest river, thebiggest forest, the best soil. The weather’s always warm and sunny, with no floods,hurricanes, or natural disasters at all. Don’t you think that’s a little unfair?” “Ah,”God replied, “just wait until you see the people I’m putting there.”

Accuracy rarely comes with a punch line, but there’s a significant grain oftruth in that tale. Brazil as a nation is unusually blessed. Five thousand miles ofcoastline—some of it packed with cafes and partygoers, but long stretches bliss-fully empty. Rainforests and wetlands teem with exotic critters. Some of the old-est cities and civic architecture in the New World (and one of the newest citiesin the entire world) are here. Restaurants match the snobbiest standards, withregional cuisines that have yet to be discovered in culinary capitals like New Yorkor L.A. Music lovers could make Brazil a lifetime study. And let’s not forget a lit-tle thing called Carnaval.

And about those Brazilians: They work as hard as anyone in the First World,and many a good deal harder. In recent years Brazil has devoted time andresources to improving its tourism infrastructure, reflected in the new airports,hotels, and inns that have sprung up around the country. Yet no one could accuseBrazilians of worshipping efficiency. They’d much rather get along than get thingsdone; the goal is, above all, harmony. Harmony can mean an entire Sunday spentwatching soccer, or afternoons off for quality time with your buddies at thebeach. It can mean countless hours of effort for a single night’s party. But aboveall, harmony mandates never taking anything all that seriously. And at this,Brazilians excel. Read on to discover some of the best this country has to offer.

1 The Most Unforgettable Travel Experiences

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• Attend Carnaval in Rio: Thebiggest party in the world; whetheryou dance it on the streets, watchthousands participate with theirelaborate costumes in the sambaparade, or attend the fairy-taleCopacabana Palace ball. It’s the oneevent not to miss! See chapters 2and 4.

• Be the Girl or Boy from Ipanema:Rio may have other beaches, butIpanema is still the one with thebest people-watching. Grab a spot

and food, drink, and eye candy willcome to you. See chapter 4.

• Watch a Soccer Game at Mara-canã Stadium: Nothing can pre-pare you for a game at the largeststadium in the world. Up to100,000 fans sing, dance, and drumfor hours in one of the biggest par-ties in town. See chapter 4.

• Stroll the Streets of Ouro Prêto:Ouro Prêto’s cobblestone streetshaven’t changed much since the18th century. Over a dozen

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baroque churches and beautifullypreserved colonial architecture dotthe hills of this charming town.See chapter 5.

• Get to Know Pelourinho: Therestored historical center of Sal-vador is a treasure of baroquechurches, colorful colonial archi-tecture, steep cobblestone streets,and large squares. See chapter 8.

• Hear the Drummers in Pelô: Atnight the historic heart of Salvadorcomes alive with music. Mostimpressive are the Blocos Afro, theall-percussion bands that create arhythm and beat with their drumsso intense it sends shivers downyour spine. See chapter 8.

• Hit the Waves in Porto de Gal-inhas: This casual laid-back tropi-cal resort of white beaches is theperfect spot to learn to surf. You’llnever get cold, while steamed craband fresh tropical juices betweenwaves do wonders to keep yougoing. See chapter 9.

• Watch the Sunset Over theDunes in Genipabu: White assnow, the sand dunes of Geni-pabu, north of Natal, contrast

sharply with the blue sky andsparkling ocean. Sunsets cast aglow of pure gold over the dunes.See chapter 10.

• Kayak in the Amazon: To explorethe rainforest in depth, nothingbeats a slow descent of an Amazontributary; the kayak provides thefreedom to view the rainforest atleisure, guides explain the work-ings of this ecosystem, and cooksprepare meals of delicious Ama-zon fish. See chapter 12.

• Admire the Modernist Architec-ture of Brasilia: Built fromscratch in a matter of years on thered soil of the dry cerrado, Brasiliais an oasis of modernism inBrazil’s interior. Marvel at theclean lines and functional formsand admire some of the best pub-lic art in the country. See chap-ter 13.

• Get Drenched at AmazingIguaçu Falls: These falls consist of275 cataracts along a 2.5km (11⁄2-mile) stretch of the Iguaçu River.The water’s power mesmerizes asyou stare into the roiling caul-drons. See chapter 14.

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2 The Best Beaches• Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro: Yes,

this is one of the most urbanbeaches in the world, but it’s stillone of the country’s prime tan-ning spots. The long stretch ofwhite sand is perfect for observingthe tan and lovely (male andfemale alike). Or watch a game ofvolleyball while having a beer andsome fresh seafood; if you feel likeit, go for a swim or a stroll. Seechapter 4.

• Praia dos Castelhanos, Ilhabela:Ilhabela’s prime unspoiled beach islong and wild and completelyundeveloped; mountains coveredin untouched Atlantic rainforestprovide a stunning backdrop.Access is by boat or over a bumpy

rutted track, but the views aremore than worth it. See chapter 7.

• Morro de São Paulo, Bahia: Theperfect island getaway, Morro deSão Paulo is only a 2-hour boatride from Salvador. The rustic set-ting, car-free streets, and laid-backatmosphere are perfect for relax-ing. The calm, warm waters areexcellent for swimming or snor-keling. See chapter 8.

• Porto de Galinhas, Pernambuco:Unlike so many beaches in Brazil,development in Porto de Galinhashas been kept resolutely smallscale. No high-rises mar theunpretentious town of Porto deGalinhas, which boasts perhapsfour streets—enough for a dozen

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restaurants, a bank, some surfshops, and a beachside bar or two.See chapter 9.

• Ponta Negra, Manaus: Not anocean beach but a river beach,Ponta Negra, on the shores of RioNegro, is the most popular tan-ning spot in the dry season. Allthe standard beach accoutermentsare present, including vendors ply-ing food, drinks, and souvenirs.Beach kiosks serve up snacks untilthe wee hours. See chapter 12.

• Fernando do Noronha: Theisland archipelago of Fernando doNoronha has so many spectacularbeaches, it’s hard to single out justone. Praia do Leão offers wildcrashing surf and sea turtle hatch-ings in season. The most gor-geously secluded is Praia da Baía

do Sancho, a crescent of red sandon shimmering clear blue waterthat can only be reached by clam-bering down a rickety iron ladderthrough a chasm in the cliff side.See chapter 16.

• Praia Mole, Florianópolis: Fac-ing the open ocean, Praia Mole isone of the most popular beacheson the beautiful southern island ofSanta Catarina (aka Florianópolis).Perfectly white fluffy sand, lushgreen vegetation, and rocky out-crops give the beach an isolated,paradisiacal feel. Yet, the strand isanything but quiet, packed withan attractive bohemian crowd oflocals from Floripa, yuppietourists, surfers, gay and gay-friendly sunbathers, and families.See chapter 17.

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3 The Best Outdoor Adventures• Hang Gliding in Rio: Running

off the edge of a platform withnothing between you and theground 800m (2,624 ft.) belowrequires a leap of faith, so tospeak, but once you do, the viewsof the rainforest and beaches areso enthralling that you almost for-get about the ground until yourtoes touch the sand at São Con-rado beach. See chapter 4.

• Board, Kite, and Yacht Sailingin Ilhabela: A gem of an islandjust an hour from one of theworld’s largest cities, Ilhabela hasthe wind and waves and infra-structure for any wind on water-sport, be it yacht sailing, boardsailing, or that new adrenalinekick of kite surfing. The undevel-oped east coast is thick with rain-forest and lined with white-sandbeaches. See chapter 7.

• Hike or Bike the Chapada Dia-mantina: These highlands inlandfrom Salvador have rock forma-tions similar to the buttes andmesas of the American Southwest.

They also have waterfalls and nat-ural waterslides of smooth redmarble, plus lots of great hikingand biking trails. See chapter 8.

• Canoeing the Amazon: Just youand a canoe in the jungle. Yoursenses heighten as you listen to thesounds of the forest, watch forsplashes in the water, and peerinto the trees to find birds, sloths,and monkeys. See chapter 12.

• Walking Through the AmazonForest: Get off the river and delveinto the dense forest. In a temper-ate forest you may see three orfour varieties of trees; in the Ama-zon you’ll spot 10 to 20 differenttypes in a matter of minutes. Seechapter 12.

• Horseback Riding in the Pan-tanal: Too soggy to hike, the wetfields of the Pantanal are perfectfor exploring by horseback. And ifyou like it fast, there’s nothing likegalloping through the fields, as aflurry of colorful birds scatter andcaiman scurry off underfoot. Seechapter 15.

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• Snorkeling in Bonito: The crys-tal rivers in Bonito offer some ofthe best freshwater snorkeling youhave ever seen, with 9m to 18m(30 ft.–60 ft.) of visibility. Variousfish (and the occasional anaconda)can be spotted as you quietly driftdownriver. See chapter 15.

• Swimming in the Waterfalls ofChapada dos Guimarães: Thered-rock formations of this mini-canyon hide some spectacularwaterfalls nestled in small stands

of lush tropical forest. Withdozens and dozens of falls andtrails, it’s not hard to find one allfor yourself. See chapter 15.

• Diving in Fernando de Noronha:Brazil’s best diving is found onthis small archipelago off the coastof Pernambuco. See dolphins, tur-tles, manta rays, and lots of under-water caves. Crowds are limited,because only 420 visitors areallowed on the island at any giventime. See chapter 16.

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4 The Best Encounters with Wildlife• Go, Turtles, Go! (Bahia): From

mid-February to April you have agood chance to watch turtlehatchings at Praia do ForteTamar’s turtle project. See howthese tiny sea turtles crawl out ofthe egg, and cheer them on as theywaddle to the ocean for their firstswim. See chapter 8.

• Caiman Spotting (the Amazon):Spotting caimans (alligators nativeto South America) involves settingout in a canoe after the sun has set.Boating through the dark Amazonforest is quite an experience, butnothing quite prepares you for thesight of those caiman eyes thatlight up in the beam of the spot-light. See chapter 12.

• Butterflies in Iguaçu: Everyonetalks about the falls; few mentionthe butterflies. The lush rainforestprovides the perfect environmentfor many colorful species, andeverywhere you go there are lovelybutterflies aflutter. Hard to miss isthe metallic-blue Morpho butter-fly; it’s about the size of yourhand. See chapter 14.

• Red Araras (the Pantanal): Thesunset over the red-rock formationsin the Chapada dos Guimarães,north of Cuiabá, is a magical expe-rience in itself. Even more specialis the view of scarlet macaws work-ing the thermals off the sheer cliffsin the warm glow of the settingsun. See chapter 15.

5 The Best Museums• Museu Internacional de Arte Naif

do Brasil (Rio de Janeiro; & 021/2205-8612; www.museunaif.com.br): Don’t miss this little museum,located just a few hundred yardsfrom the Corcovado tram station.The practitioners of naïve art (alsocalled primitive or ingénue art)paint from the heart, creating col-orful and expressive drawings. Vis-itors will recognize many popularscenes from Cariocas’s daily life—a soccer game at the Maracanãstadium, the samba parade, the

beaches, and neighborhood cafes.See p. 104.

• Museu de Arte Sacra (Mariana;& 031/3557-2516): One of thebest collections of Sacred Art inBrazil can be found in the smalltown of Mariana, just outside ofOuro Prêto. The vast collection ofimpressive gold and silver works isdisplayed in a gorgeous old colo-nial mansion. See p. 170.

• Monument to Latin America(São Paulo; & 011/3823-9611;www.memorial.org.br): Designed

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by famed Brazilian architect OscarNiemeyer, the monument is, well,so Niemeyer—shy of a visit toBrasilia, it’s the best place to seeBrazilian Modernism in all itsconcrete austerity. See p. 213.

• Pinacoteca do Estado (SãoPaulo; & 011/229-9844): ThePinacoteca in São Paulo is theplace to come for anyone whowants to see Brazilian art. Themuseum has an excellent collec-tion of Brazilian art from the 19thand 20th centuries, includingworks by Alfredo Ceschiatti, theartist who designed many of thesculptures in Brasilia. See p. 218.

• Museu de Arte Sacra (Salvador;& 071/243-6310): One of thefinest museums in Salvador, theArte Sacra displays one of Brazil’sbest collections of Catholic art.The artifacts are shown in the

monastery adjoining the Igreja deSanta Teresa, a simple, beautifulbuilding that itself counts as awork of art. The collectionincludes oil paintings, oratorios(small cabinets containing a cruci-fix or saint image), and amazingsilver work. See p. 262.

• Forte das Cinco Pontas/RecifeCity Museum (Recife; & 084/3224-8492): Originally built bythe Dutch in 1630 and rebuiltby the Portuguese in 1677, thefort today has been magnificentlyrestored; you can wander theramparts and explore at will. Thecity museum, which takes up twowings of the fort, is well done.Two whole (air-conditioned)rooms are devoted to the Dutchperiod, and there’s a wealth ofmaps and drawings. See p. 309.

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6 The Best Festivals & CelebrationsWell, Carnaval—that’s an obviouschoice (and already covered under“The Most Unforgettable Travel Expe-riences,” above). Here are some otherfavorites:

• Reveillon/New Year’s Celebration(Rio de Janeiro): Close to 2 mil-lion people gather for one of themost spectacular New Year’s cele-brations in the world. It starts onthe evening of December 31 andcontinues well into the morningof January 1. The main event takesplace on Copacabana Beach—livemusic, fireworks, and the mutedCandomblé religious ceremonies.For details contact Riotur (& 021/2217-7575; www.rio.rj.gov.br/riotur) or Alô Rio (& 021/2542-8080). See chapter 4.

• São Paulo Bienal (São Paulo): Amust-see for lovers of art, theater,music, and architecture, the Bienalis the biggest arts event in LatinAmerica. It takes place every even

year in Ibirapuera Park (the nexttwo take place in 2004 and 2006).Contact the Fundação Bienal deSão Paulo (& 011/5574-5922).See chapter 7.

• Washing of the Steps of Bon-fim Church (Salvador): One ofthe most important religious cere-monies in Salvador takes placeon the third Thursday of Januarywhen hundreds of women intraditional Bahian dress form aprocession and carry perfumedwater to wash the church steps;800,000 onlookers and revelersaccompany them. For details con-tact Bahiatursa (& 071/321-2463; www.bahiatursa.ba.gov.br).See chapter 8.

• Celebration of Yemanjá, theGoddess of the Sea (Salvador):On February 2, watch the devoteesthroughout Brazil offer flowers,perfumes, and jewelry to the sea.Celebrated on the beach with

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music and food. The largest cele-bration takes place in Salvador onPraia Vermelha. For details contactBahiatursa (& 071/321-2463;www.bahiatursa.ba.gov.br). Seechapter 8.

• The Passion Play (Nova Jerusalem,near Recife): South America’s

largest passion play takes place atNova Jerusalem, just outside ofRecife in the Northeast of Brazil.Performances are daily in the 10days leading up to Easter. Fordetails contact Recife TouristInformation (& 081/3462-4960or 081/3341-6090). See chapter 9.

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7 The Best Views• Rio at Your Feet: Whether you

hike, drive, or take the cogwheeltram (our preferred method) tothe top of Corcovado Mountain,the view from just below Christ’stoes is stunning. The 360-degreeview of Rio de Janeiro is awesome.See chapter 4.

• Ruin Park (Rio de Janeiro): Oneof the most enjoyable lookouts inRio is in the quaint hilltop neigh-borhood of Santa Teresa. Half theattraction is getting up there on theold rickety trams. Climb the ruinsof this old mansion and explorethe catwalks, walkways, and lad-ders that connect the floors, all theway to the top for one of Rio’s bestfree views. See chapter 4.

• Sugarloaf (Rio de Janeiro): It maybe the most visited tourist attrac-tion in town—and tacky as hell—but views over the bay and theocean beaches are tough to beat. Ifyou don’t want to be seen board-ing the silly tram, you can alwayshoof it up. See chapter 4.

• Elevator Lacerda (Salvador): Thecheapest ride in town (onlyUS5¢), this Art Deco elevatorwhisks you from the lower townof Salvador to the historic heart ofthe city. Views of the bay and thecity are fantastic but quick. Lingerat the top of the elevator platformto savor the views, or splurge andtake another trip. See chapter 8.

• Farol da Barra (Salvador): Theview at the foot of the lovely light-house on Barra beach is not of the

city, but of the bay and most spec-tacular at sunset when the redglowing ball drops just behind Ita-parica Island, casting a deep redglow over the sparkling ocean. Seechapter 8.

• The TV Tower in Brasilia: It fig-ures that in a modern town theviews are high-tech. The TVTower, in the center of the EixoMonumental, offers spectacularviews up and down the mainavenue, aligning buildings the waythey were meant for architects tosee them. The famous big sky sun-sets of Brasilia make the view evenmore impressive, lending a hint ofcolor to the pale concrete of thebuildings. See chapter 13.

• Banespa Tower (São Paulo): Thebest view of the biggest city inSouth America is from atop theBanespa Tower. Ascending to its35th-floor observation deck, youget an incredible view—high-risetowers, 360 degrees of them, fill-ing every inch of land for as far asthe eye can see. Even better, it’sfree. See chapter 7.

• Peering into Iguaçu Falls: Get asclose as you can to the waterfalls atIguaçu and the power of the wateris hypnotizing. Watch for thosecute swifts that manage to sneakin behind the falls. See chapter 14.

• The Lookout at Araras EcoLodge (Pantanal): A ricketywooden platform high above thePantanal provides sweeping viewsof the surrounding fields. Monkeys

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play in the trees—and if you havethe time to sit patiently, you’ll seehyacinth macaws, toucans, roseate

spoonbills, and storks fly by in thegreatest nature show on earth. Seechapter 15.

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8 The Best Hotels• The Copacabana Palace (Rio de

Janeiro; & 0800/211-533 or021/2548-7070): Fred and Gin-ger didn’t dance just anywherewhen they went “flying down toRio.” The Copacabana Palace isBrazil’s most famous and glam-orous hotel, standing beautiful onthe country’s most famous beach.See p. 68.

• Hotel Novo Mundo (Rio deJaneiro; & 0800/253-355 or 021/2557-6226): For that perfect post-card view of Rio’s Aterro Park, theGloria Marina, and the Bay ofGuanabara against the backdropof the Pão de Açucar, book theSuite Mar on the top floor of theHotel Novo Mundo. See p. 76.

• Hotel Sofitel (Rio de Janeiro;& 0800/241-232 or 021/2525-1232): Considered Rio’s besthotel, the Sofitel combines old-world elegance and style with oneof the city’s best locations, acrossfrom the Copacabana Fort andsteps from Ipanema. See p. 68.

• Marina All Suites Hotel (Rio deJaneiro; & 021/2540-4990 or021/2540-5212): The Marina AllSuites is Rio’s first design hotel; allsuites are luxuriously furnished.The two-bedroom oceanview Dia-mante suite is surely the city’smost beautiful suite. See p. 64.

• Marriott Rio de Janeiro (Rio deJaneiro; & 800/228-9290 in theU.S. and Canada, or 021/2254-6500): The Marriott in Copaca-bana opened in May 2001 and hassignificantly raised the bar forhotels in Brazil. All rooms comewith CD players, free mineralwater, coffeemakers, and iron andboard. The staff wins high marks.See p. 69.

• Sheraton Rio Hotel & Towers(Rio de Janeiro; & 0800/210-750 or 021/2274-1122): TheSheraton Rio is the only hotel that’sreally on the beach. No crossingthe street; just walk down the stepsand you’re on the sand. See p. 64.

• Unique (São Paulo; & 011/3055-4700): Extraordinary highdesign, rooms and suites featuringthe cleanest-of-clean white-on-white decor, luscious bedding,sparking bathrooms with Jacuzzitubs, a plethora of room gadgets,plus a rooftop view of theAvenida Paulista’s power skyscrap-ers and lush green Ibirapuera park.See p. 202.

• Marian Palace (São Paulo;& 0800/558-433 or 011/228-8433): Built in the ’40s by a Pol-ish princess, the Marian Palace is alovely preserved Art Deco gem.Wherever possible the furnitureand finishings (think lampshades,carpets, and even the colored-tilebathrooms) have been maintained.See p. 199.

• Tropical Manaus Eco Resort(Manaus; & 0800/701-2670or 092/659-5000): The TropicalHotel in Manaus is without adoubt the hotel in town. Set in itsown piece of rainforest on thebanks of the Rio Negro, the hotelis built in an elegant colonial style.Rooms are spacious, and theamenities are top-notch; archerylessons, a zoo, wakeboard lessons,a wave pool, salon, and more awaityou in the middle of the Amazon.See p. 346.

• Bourbon Foz do Iguaçu (Foz doIguaçu; & 0800/451-010 or045/529-0123): Make sure youdon’t forget to see the falls! The

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Bourbon Hotel has plenty to keepyou busy. Over 3km (2 miles) oftrails through orchards and treenurseries are the perfect place towatch for toucans, butterflies, andparrots. The pool deck has three

large pools to soak up those raysor an indoor wave pool and spafor a dreary day. Active types canplay a game of tennis, try theclimbing wall, and play volleyballor soccer. See p. 395.

T H E B E S T P O U S A D A S 15

9 The Best Pousadas• Colonna Park Hotel (Búzios;

& 022/2623-2245): On a hillsideoverlooking two beaches in Búzios,Colonna Park has one of the bestviews in town. The elegantly fur-nished rooms are done in coolblue and white, and the best roomin the house has a deck with viewsof both beaches. See p. 158.

• Pousada do Mondego (OuroPrêto; & 031/3551-2040): Wakeup to the unforgettable view ofOuro Prêto’s most famous church,São Francisco de Assis, just outsideyour window. Early in the morn-ing the surrounding hills are oftenshrouded in mist. See p. 173.

• Pousada Tankamana (Petrópolis;& 024/3222-2706): Nestled inthe hills above Petrópolis, PousadaTankamana is a breath of fresh air.The luxury chalets with Jacuzzitubs and fireplaces are perfectlycozy on a cold winter day, just thekind of place to stay put and fin-ish that book you have been tryingto read. See p. 165.

• Solar da Ponte (Tiradentes;& 032/3355-1255): In the heartof Tiradentes, one the mostcharming colonial villages, Pou-sada Solar da Ponte is a realretreat. The spacious antique fur-nished rooms look out over thecobblestone streets. The lovelygarden, library, and sitting roomsare perfect for a relaxing day. Ayummy breakfast is served in thedining room overlooking the gar-den. See p. 179.

• Porto Pacuiba Hotel (Ilhabela;& 012/3896-2466): Located onIlhabela, this sprawling wooden

mansion with its courtyards andwalkways was built around tallmango trees on the property. Thisoasis of comfort is an ideal homebase for exploring the rest of theisland. See p. 238.

• Pousada do Boqueirão (Sal-vador; & 071/241-2262): Thisrenovated pousada on the edge ofSalvador’s Pelourinho has thecharm of the 17th century and theconvenience of the 21st. The viewfrom your personal veranda out ofthe Bay of All Saints would bememorable in whatever centuryyou found yourself. See p. 247.

• Estalagem Alcino (Lençois;&/fax 075/334-1171): Though itlooks like an 18th-century manorhouse, this pousada in the Cha-pada Diamantina is only a fewyears old. Rooms are lovely; thebreakfast you’ll remember for therest of your life. See p. 289.

• Pousada do Amparo (Olinda;& 081/3439-1749): In the heartof Olinda’s old town, Pousadado Amaro is a perfectly restored18th-century house. Set on ahillside, the views from the roomsand back deck of Olinda, theocean below, and Recife in thebackground are amazing. Ele-gantly furnished in period-style,the pousada is a real labor of loveof the owners. See p. 301.

• Manary Praia Hotel (Natal;& 084/219-2900): On the beachof Ponta Negra in Natal, theManary Praia offers luxuriousand comfortable accommodations.The hacienda-style mansion is anexcellent home base for exploring

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some of the best beaches in theNortheast. (But you may neverget past the swimming pool.) Seep. 320.

• Araras Eco Lodge (Pantanal;& 065/682-2800): This lodge isthe best in the Pantanal forwildlife viewing and experiencing

the lifestyle of the pantaneiro cow-boy. Accommodations are rusticbut the quality of guides, theamazing food and unparalleledwildlife are worth it. The ownerhas a history of environmentalwork in the region and runs anexcellent program. See p. 410.

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10 The Best Dining Experiences• Experiencing Feijoada, the

National Dish: It’s impossible tosingle out one restaurant in all ofBrazil for its feijoada. Just try itand try it right. Start with a caipir-inha (that potent, delicious limeand sugar cane drink) and somecaldo (soup), followed by steaminghot black beans with all the variousmeats. Side dishes include farofa,cabbage, orange slices, and whiterice. Dab a bit of malagueta pep-pers on the beans for an extra kick.

• Street Food: Whether you wantprawns, chicken, tapioca pan-cakes, coconut sweets, or corn onthe cob, it can all be purchased onthe street for next to nothing.Don’t be afraid to try some of thebest snacks that Brazil has to offer.

• All Beef, All the Time! Rodíziochurrascarias are all-you-can-eatmeat orgies. The best cuts of beefare served up one after another; tryone or two, or try them all. As longas you can take it they dish it out.Our favorite is surely picanha, thelean, tender rump steak—it willmelt in your mouth. One of thecountry’s most popular restaurantsis the Porcão, a nationwide chain.Their flagship location is in Rio’sFlamengo neighborhood (& 021/2554-8535), with views of thebay and Sugarloaf Mountain. Seep. 84.

• The Best Botequim (Bar):Location, location, location. Bar& Restaurante Amarelinho’s(& 021/2240-8434) large patio

sits on Rio’s most beautiful square,the Praça Floriano. Dwarfed bythe National Library, the Museumof Fine Arts, and the NationalTheatre, this bar serves up excel-lent cold chopp and a host ofBrazilian pub food: grilled beef,spicy sausage, codfish pastries, andmanioc fries. Surely that’s enoughto munch on while you take in theviews. See p. 81.

• Colonial Coffee in Rio: Forthe most elegant coffee experi-ence, visit Confeitaria Colombo(& 021/2221-0107). This 19th-century Belle Epoque establish-ment is one of the most beautifulsalons in all of Brazil. See p. 81.

• Italian Cuisine in São Paulo: Forsome of the best Italian food inthe world (well, outside of Italy),head to São Paulo’s Massimo(& 011/3284-0311). The city’simmigrants have created deliciousnew-world interpretations of someold-world classics. See p. 206.

• Moquecas in Salvador: You can’tsay you’ve been to Salvador with-out trying moqueca, the tasty stewof fresh seafood with coconutmilk, lime juice, cilantro, and reddendê palm oil. In Salvador’sPelourinho, try Sorriso da Dadá(& 071/321-5883).

• Prawns on Ilhabela: Ilhabela hasthe most succulent, sweet, andjuicy prawns in all of Brazil. Enjoythem grilled, sautéed, or stuffedwith cheese; this is as good as theycome. See chapter 7.

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• Fine Dining in Porto de Galin-has: Beijupirá (& 081/3552-2354), in a small resort town inBrazil’s Northeast, is perhaps oneof the most pleasant little restau-rants in the country. The decora-tions are whimsical and rustic, thefood an inspired Brazilian cuisinethat makes use of fresh seafood,tropical fruits, and spices. Seep. 315.

• The Regional Cuisine of Belém.Located in the Tropics, on theAmazon River but at the mouth ofthe ocean, Belém has access to aricher assortment of ingredients

than almost anywhere else inBrazil, and local chefs make themost of the variety. For regionalcuisine, the city’s two best restau-rants are the Boulevard Café (Boide Boulevard) (& 091/241-1476), and Lá em Casa (& 091/223-1212). See chapter 12.

• Eating Fish in the Pantanal:Anywhere in the Pantanal you cantry the phenomenal bounty of theworld’s largest floodplain. Paçu,dourado, and pintado are just a fewof the best catches. In Cuiabá, visitPeixaria Popular (& 065/322-5471). See p. 408.

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11 The Best Markets• Babilônia Feira Hype (Rio de

Janeiro; & 021/2236-7195):Located in the Jockey Club, theBabilônia Hippy Fair is an arts-and-crafts market where you canlisten to music, get a shiatsu mas-sage, design a henna tattoo, buy anose ring, get yourself pierced,and more (there’s more?). Seep. 132.

• Feirarte (Rio de Janeiro): Thiscrafts market on Rio’s most his-toric square features a range ofartists showcasing their handi-work. There’s leatherwork, ceram-ics, glass, and silver, not to mentionfood and drink stands and less-talented vendors peddling moretouristy souvenirs. See p. 133.

• Antiques Fair (São Paulo): EverySunday from 10am to 5pm there’san antiques fair in the open spacebeneath the MASP building onAvenida Paulista. Dealers are reg-istered, and the quality of thewares is often good. See p. 216.

• Japanese Market (São Paulo).One of the largest Asian street mar-kets takes place every Sunday onthe Praça da Liberdade (next tothe Liberdade metrô stop) in SãoPaulo’s Liberdade neighborhood.

The city’s Japanese residents cele-brate their heritage with an excel-lent and inexpensive selection ofJapanese cuisine and arts andcrafts. See p. 223.

• Mercado Modelo (Salvador;& 071/243-6543): Souvenirjunkies will think they’ve died andgone to heaven. Located in the for-mer customs building, this markethas around 300 merchants sellinga large variety of souvenirs: leathergoods, hammocks, instruments,masks, carvings, paintings, lace,terra-cotta figurines, and jewelry.See p. 262.

• Mercado Adolpho Lisboa (Man-aus; & 092/232-5073): TheAdolpho Lisboa is a beautifuliron-and-glass copy of the now-demolished market hall in LesHalles, Paris. It’s a great place tosee exotic Amazonian fish, fruits,and vegetables. A number of stallshave indigenous handicrafts atreasonable prices. See p. 350.

• The Ver-o-Peso Market (Belém;no phone). The Ver-o-Peso is avast waterside cornucopia featur-ing outrageously strange Amazonfish, hundreds of species of Ama-zon fruits found nowhere else,

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traditional medicine love potions,and just about anything else pro-

duced in the Amazon, all of itcheap, cheap, cheap. See p. 371.

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12 The Best Nightlife• Arco do Teles (Rio de Janeiro):

Tucked away in an alley just offthe Praça XV, the Arco de Telesreveals perfectly preserved colonialtwo-story walk-ups set on narrowcobblestone streets, lined withrestaurants and cafes. With over15 bars and botequins it doesn’tmatter which one you pick; walkaround and see what’s doing. If youget there after 10pm you’ll be luckyto find a seat at all. See chapter 4.

• Carioca da Gema (Rio de Janeiro;& 021/2221-0043): One of thehottest nightlife spots in the city,Carioca da Gema offers some ofthe finest bossa nova and samba.Located just steps from the Lapaaqueduct, Carioda da Gema is oneof the many small music venues inthis funky bohemian neighbor-hood. The best night to come isThursday. See p. 139.

• Rua das Pedras (Búzios): Thehottest beach resort close to Rio,Búzios is the place if you’re on amission for a night out. Nightlifecentral is on the Rua das Pedraswhere the pubs, bars, discos, andrestaurants open on weekendsuntil 3 or 4 in the morning. Oneof the most popular spots is theMexican bar and disco Zapata,very busy during vacations andweekends. See p. 160.

• Rabo do Peixe (São Paulo;& 011/3845-2296): If there issuch a thing as a typical Brazilianpub, this is it. Located on a streetcorner, the patio fans out on allsides, and tables are packed everyday. A great spot to kick off yourevening with a cold beer and thebest picanha in town. See p. 234.

• Pelourinho (Salvador). One ofthe most happening nightlife areas

in Brazil, Pelourinho transformsitself into one big music venueevery night of the week. Withdozens of cafes and bars there isalways a new band or singer tocheck out, and a few of the squareshave stages set up for performances.Two of the most popular venues forconcerts are the Praça QuincasBerro D’Agua and the Largo PedroArchanjo. See chapter 8.

• Rua do Bom Jesus (Recife):Recife’s historic downtown ispacked with bars and restaurantsthat radiate off of Rua do BomJesus. Free concerts add to theentertainment; on Sundays there’sa street market with good qualitycrafts. One of Old Recife’s nicestbars is the Arsenal do Chopp(& 081/3224-6259). Most tablesare spread out on the sidewalk,leaving you in the middle of theaction. See p. 311.

• Ponta Negra (Manaus): The mosthappening nightlife spot in Man-aus is Ponta Negra Beach. Evenwhen the beach completely disap-pears in the wet season, the actionalong the waterfront continues,with regular concerts and events.Many restaurants and bars line theriverfront. See p. 346.

• Rua das Tabajaras (Fortaleza):One of the liveliest nightlife areasin Fortaleza is this narrow streetthat parallels the waterfront inPraia de Iracema. On Mondaynights, Piratas (Rua dos Tabajaras325, & 085/219-8030) is theplace to be, and even though thecrowd consists of mostly touristsit’s a great party. On any othernight of the week the street ispacked with people heading outfor dinner or drinks. See p. 339.

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