The Best of Bermuda

If you’ve decided that Bermuda sounds like the perfect place to relax, feel free to startunwinding right now, because we’ve done all the legwork for you. Below you’ll findour carefully compiled lists of the best that Bermuda has to offer, from beaches anddive sites to resorts, restaurants, and sightseeing—and nearly everything else you’llwant to see and do. For the locations of many of these items, see the color maps “TheBest of Outdoor Bermuda” and “Bermuda’s Best Accommodations” at the front of thisbook.

1 The Best Beaches

1

Your first priority on your Bermuda vaca-tion probably will be to kick back at thebeach. But which beach? Hotels oftenhave private stretches of sand, whichwe’ve described in each accommodationsreview (see chapter 4, “Where to Stay”).There are many fine public beaches aswell. Here’s our top-10 list, arrangedclockwise around the island, beginningwith the south-shore beaches closest tothe City of Hamilton. For locations, seethe color map “The Best of OutdoorBermuda” at the front of this book. Seechapter 6, “Fun in the Surf & Sun,” formore details.

• Elbow Beach (Paget Parish): Thepale pink sand stretches for almost amile at Elbow Beach, one of the mostpopular beaches in Bermuda. At leastthree hotels sit on its perimeter.Because protective coral reefs sur-round it, Elbow Beach is one of thesafest beaches on the island for swim-ming. Around Easter, it tends to bepacked with college students whodescend on Bermuda. See p. 139.

• Astwood Cove (Warwick Parish): Atthe bottom of the steep, winding

road that intersects with South Road,this beach is so remote that it’s rarelyovercrowded. Come here when youwant to be alone. The trees andshrubbery of Astwood Park provide averdant backdrop. See p. 140.

• Warwick Long Bay (WarwickParish): This popular beach, on thesouth side of South Shore Park, fea-tures a half-mile stretch of sandagainst a backdrop of scrubland andlow grasses. Despite frequent winds,an offshore reef keeps the waves sur-prisingly small. Less than 60m (200ft.) offshore, a jagged coral islandappears to be floating above thewater. There is excellent snorkelinghere—the waters are clear and marinelife comes in close to shore. See p. 141.

• Chaplin Bay (Warwick and South-ampton parishes): At the southernextremity of South Shore Park, strad-dling the boundary of two parishes,this small but secluded beach almostcompletely disappears during stormsand particularly high tides. An open-air coral barrier rises from the water,

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partially separating one half of thebeach from the other. See p. 142.

• Horseshoe Bay (SouthamptonParish): This is Bermuda’s mostfamous beach, and it’s one of the bestfor families. Unlike most islandbeaches, Horseshoe Bay has a life-guard on duty from May to Septem-ber. The Horseshoe Bay Beach Cafe(& 441/238-2651) offers completefacilities, including watersports equip-ment rental. See p. 142.

• Church Bay (Southampton Parish):If you like to snorkel, this southwest-ern beach is for you. The relativelycalm waters, sheltered by offshorereefs, harbor a variety of marine life.Sunbathers love the unusually deep,pink sands of this beach. See p. 143.

• Somerset Long Bay (Sandys Parish):The waters off this beach are oftenunsafe for swimming, but its isola-tion will appeal to anyone who wantsto escape the crowds. With about aquarter-mile of sand, the crescent-shaped beach is ideal for strolling.

The undeveloped parkland of SandysParish shelters it from the rest of theisland. See p. 143.

• Shelly Bay (Hamilton Parish): Onthe north shore, you’ll discover calmwaters and soft, pink sand—andyou’ll want for nothing else. Thisbeach is well-known among beachbuffs, but it’s rarely overcrowded andthere’s always a spot in the sun justwaiting for you. See p. 143.

• Tobacco Bay (St. George Parish): Apopular stretch of pale pink sand, thisis the most frequented beach on St.George’s Island. It offers lots of facili-ties, including equipment rentals anda snack bar. See p. 143.

• John Smith’s Bay (Smith’s Parish):The only public beach in Smith’sParish is long and flat. It boasts thepale pink sand for which the southshore is famous. There’s usually a life-guard on duty from May to Septem-ber—a plus for families. There aretoilet and changing facilities on-site.See p. 144.

T H E B E S T O U T D O O R P U R S U I T S 5

2 The Best Outdoor PursuitsSee chapter 6, “Fun in the Surf & Sun,” fordetails on arranging any of these activities.

• Golf: Known for its outstandingcourses, Bermuda attracts the world’sleading golfers (and those who’d liketo be). Over the years, such luminar-ies as President Eisenhower, PresidentTruman, and the Duke of Windsorhave hit the island’s links. Rolling,hummocky fairways characterize thecourses. Many avid golfers come toBermuda to “collect courses,” or playthem all. Some holes, such as PortRoyal’s notorious 16th, are “fromhell,” as golfers say: Both the tee andthe hole are high on cliff edges, withthe rich, blue sea a dizzying 30m (98ft.) below. See “The Best GolfCourses,” below, for our top picks.

• Boating & Sailing: Yachters aroundthe world agree: Bermuda is one ofthe world’s top boating destinations.Many people forget that Bermudaisn’t one island, but an archipelago,with all kinds of nooks and crannieswaiting to be discovered. With thefresh wind of the Atlantic blowing inyour hair, you can embark on yourown voyage of discovery, exploringGreat Sound and its islets, includingLong Island and Hawkins Island.Tiny, secluded beaches beckon you toput down anchor and relax awhile. Ifyou’re a novice, try Mangrove Bay; it’sprotected and safer than some of themore turbulent seas. See “More Funin the Water,” in chapter 6.

• Diving: If you’re happiest under thesea, Bermuda has what you’re looking

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C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F B E R M U D A6

Bermuda

for. That includes the wrecks ofcountless ships, underwater caves,rich reefs, and, during most of theyear, warm, gin-clear waters. Allaround the island you’ll find a kalei-doscope of coral and marine life that’sthe most varied in this part of theworld. Many scuba experts considerBermuda one of the safest and bestplaces to learn the sport. Seasoneddivers will not be disappointed,

either—Bermuda has terrific divingareas for experts. Depths begin at7.5m (25 ft.) or less, but can exceed24m (79 ft.). Some wrecks are inabout 9m (30 ft.) of water, whichputs them within the range ofsnorkelers. See “The Best Dive Sites,”below, and “Scuba Diving,” in chap-ter 6.

• Biking: You can’t rent a car onBermuda, so you might as well hit the

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T H E B E S T O U T D O O R P U R S U I T S 7

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road on two wheels. Most of theisland isn’t great cycling terrain,because the roads are narrow and thetraffic is heavy. So we suggest thatyou head for the Railway Trail, theisland’s premier bike path. The pavedtrail, which follows the former routeof Bermuda’s railway line, runsalmost the entire length of the island.See “Other Outdoor Pursuits: Biking,

Horseback Riding & Tennis,” inchapter 6.

• Horseback Riding: Steering a horsethrough the dune grass and oleander,especially at South Shore Park, is anexperience you won’t want to miss.Because this sport is restricted tosupervised trails on Bermuda, it canbe all the more memorable—you’llhave the gorgeous seascapes all toyourself. Horseback-riding centers

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guide you on trails through the bestof the countryside and to beautifulhidden spots along the north coast.

See “Other Outdoor Pursuits: Bik-ing, Horseback Riding & Tennis,” inchapter 6.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F B E R M U D A8

3 The Best Dive SitesThe following are some of the most excit-ing shipwreck and coral-reef dives. See“Scuba Diving,” in chapter 6, for infor-mation about dive outfitters and for moreabout the sites described below. For loca-tions, see the color map “The Best ofOutdoor Bermuda,” at the front of thisbook.

• The Constellation: This 60m (197-ft.), four-masted schooner, whichwrecked en route to Venezuela with acargo of glassware, drugs, andwhiskey in 1943, lies in 9m (30 ft.) ofwater off the northwest side of theisland, about 13km (8 miles) west ofthe Royal Naval Dockyard. The truestory of this ship inspired PeterBenchley to write The Deep.

• The Cristóbal Colón: The largestknown shipwreck in Bermuda’swaters is this 144m (472-ft.) Spanishluxury liner; it ran aground in 1936on a northern reef between NorthRock and North Breaker. It lies in 9to 17m (30–56 ft.) of water.

• The Hermes: This 50m (164-ft.)steamer ship rests in some 24m (79ft.) of water about 1.6km (1 mile) offWarwick Long Bay on the southshore. It foundered in 1985. TheHermes, the Rita Zovetta, and theTauton (see below) are Bermudafavorites because of the incrediblemulticolored variety of fish that pop-ulate the waters around the ships.You’ll have a chance to see grouper,brittle starfish, spiny lobster, crabs,banded coral shrimp, queen angels,tube sponge, and more.

• L’Herminie: A first-class, 60-gunFrench frigate, L’Herminie was 17days out of its Cuban port, en route

to France, when it sank in 1838. Theship lies in 6 to 9m (20–30 ft.) ofwater off the west side of the island,with 25 cannons still visible.

• The Marie Celeste: This paddle-wheeler sank in 1864. Its 4.5m-diam-eter (15-ft.) paddle wheel, off thesouthern portion of the island, isovergrown with coral standing about17m (56 ft.) off the ocean floor.

• The North Carolina: One ofBermuda’s most colorful and well-preserved wrecks, this English sailingbarkentine foundered in 1879 andnow lies in about 12m (39 ft.) ofwater off the western portion of theisland. The bow, stern, masts, andrigging are all preserved, and all sortsof vibrant marine life call the wreckhome.

• The Rita Zovetta: A 180m (591-ft.)Italian cargo ship, lying in 6 to 21m(20–69 ft.) of water off the south sideof the island, the Rita Zovetta ranaground off St. David’s Island in1924. It’s a favorite with underwaterphotographers because of the kalei-doscope of fish that inhabit the area.

• South West Breaker: This coral-reefdive off the south shore, about 2.5km(11⁄2 miles) off Church Bay, has hardand soft coral decorating sheer wallsat depths of 6 to 9m (20–30 ft.).

• Tarpon Hole: Near Elbow Beach, offthe south shore, this dive’s proximityto the Elbow Beach Hotel makes itextremely popular. The honey-combed reef—one of the most beau-tiful off the coast of Bermuda—isknown for its varieties of coral: yellowpencil, elkhorn, fire, and star.

• The Tauton: This popular dive site isa British Royal Mail steamer that

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sank in 1914. It lies in 4 to 12m(13–39 ft.) of water off the north end

of the island and is home to numer-ous varieties of colorful marine life.

T H E B E S T T E N N I S FA C I L I T I E S 9

4 The Best Golf CoursesAll four of these courses are 18 holes. Forlocations, see the color map “The Best ofOutdoor Bermuda,” at the front of thisbook.

• Belmont Golf & Country Club(Warwick Parish): Scotsman EmmettDevereux designed this par-70,5,282m (5,776-yd.) course in 1923.It has been challenging golfers eversince, especially on its par-5 11thhole, a severe dogleg left with a blindtee shot. Trade winds play havoc withthe listed lengths. Critics complainthat the layout is “maddening,” yetthey continue to return for new chal-lenges. The grass is dense thanks to amodern irrigation system. See p. 153.

• Fairmont Southampton Golf Club(Hamilton Parish): This is a par-54,2,454m (2,684-yd.) course, with ele-vated tees, strategically placed bunkers,and an array of water hazards to chal-lenge even the most experiencedgolfer. One golfer said of this course,“You not only need to be a greatplayer, but have a certain moun-taineering agility as well.” See p. 154.

• Port Royal Golf Course (Southamp-ton Parish): This public course ranks

among the best on the island, publicor private; in fact, it’s one of thegreatest public courses in the world.Jack Nicklaus apparently agrees—he’sfond of playing here. Robert TrentJones, Sr., designed the par-71,6,003m (6,565-yd.) course along theocean. The 16th hole is the mostfamous in Bermuda; photos of it haveappeared in countless golf magazines.The hole is situated on a dramaticoceanside cliff with stunning views—one wrong hit from the club and yourball will go flying into the oceanbelow. Greens fees are relatively rea-sonable. See p. 154.

• St. George’s Golf Club (St. GeorgeParish): One of the island’s newestcourses—and one of its best—thispar-62, 3,697m (4.043-yd.) coursewas designed by Robert Trent Jones,Sr. Within walking distance of thehistoric town of St. George, it lies ona windy headland at the northeasterntip of Bermuda. Although you’llenjoy panoramic vistas, your game islikely to be affected by Atlanticwinds. The greens are the smallest onthe island, at no larger than 7.2m (24ft.) across. See p. 155.

5 The Best Tennis FacilitiesFor locations, see the color map “TheBest of Outdoor Bermuda,” at the frontof this book.

• The Fairmont Southampton (South-ampton Parish): This is Bermuda’spremier destination for avid players.Its tennis court complex is the largeston the island, and is maintained instate-of-the-art condition. The deluxehotel, one of the finest on Bermuda,offers 11 Plexipave (professional color

surface) courts. The courts are some-what protected from the north winds,but swirling breezes may affect yourfinal score. See p. 157.

• Government Tennis Stadium (Pem-broke Parish): Although Bermuda hasbeen known as the tennis capital ofthe Atlantic since 1873, players oftencomplain that the trade windsaround the island affect their game,especially near the water. That’s why

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many prefer inland courts, such asthose at this government-owned sta-dium. It offers three clay and fiveshock-absorbing Plexicushion courts(three illuminated for night play).The facility, which is north of the

City of Hamilton, requires players towear proper tennis attire. On-site,you’ll find a pro shop, a ball machine,and a pro offering private lessons. Seep. 157.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F B E R M U D A10

The Baffling Bermuda Triangle

The area known as the Bermuda Triangle encompasses 2,414,016 sq. km(932,057 sq. miles) of open sea between Bermuda, Puerto Rico, and thesoutheastern shoreline of the U.S. This bit of the Atlantic is the source of themost famous, and certainly the most baffling, legend associated withBermuda.

Tales of the mysterious Bermuda Triangle persist, despite attempts byskeptics to dismiss them as fanciful. Below are three of the most popular.Can they be true? See what you think:

• In 1881, a British-registered ship, the Ellen Austin, encountered anunnamed vessel in good condition sailing aimlessly without a crew. Thecaptain ordered a handful of his best seamen to board the mysteriousvessel and sail it to Newfoundland. A few days later, the ships encoun-tered each other again on the high seas. But to everyone’s alarm, thecrewmen who had transferred from the Ellen Austin were nowhere to befound—the ship was completely unmanned!

• Another tale concerns the disappearance of a merchant ship, the MarineSulphur Queen, in February 1963. It vanished suddenly without warning,and no one could say why. The weather was calm when the ship set sailfrom Bermuda, and everything onboard was fine—the crew never sent adistress signal. In looking for explanations, some have theorized that theship’s weakened hull gave way, causing the vessel to descend quickly tothe ocean floor. Others attribute the loss to more mysterious forces.

• The most famous of all the legends concerns an incident in 1945. OnDecember 5, five U.S. Navy bombers departed from Fort Lauderdale,

6 The Best Day Hikes• The Bermuda Railway Trail (Sandys

Parish): Stretching for about 34km(21 miles), this unique trail was cre-ated along the course of the oldBermuda Railway. The railway servedthe island from 1931 to 1948 (auto-mobiles weren’t allowed on the islanduntil the late 1940s). Armed with acopy of the Bermuda Railway Trail

Guide, available at visitor centers, youcan follow the route of the trainknown as “Rattle and Shake.” Mostof the trail still winds along a car-freeroute, and you can travel as much (oras little) of it as your stamina allows.See p. 156 and 192.

• From the Royal Naval Dockyard toSomerset (Sandys Parish): A 6.4km

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(4-mile) walk leads from the dock-yard, the former headquarters of theBritish navy on Bermuda, to Somer-set Island. Along the way you’ll crossa beautiful nature reserve; explore anold cemetery; view the Royal NavalHospital, where thousands of yellow-fever victims died in the 19th century;and be rewarded with a sweepingpanoramic view of Great Sound.Sandy beaches along the route areperfect for pausing from your hike tostretch out on the sand or take a dip

in the ocean. See “Walking Tour 3:Sandys Parish,” in chapter 8.

• Spittal Pond Nature Reserve(Smith’s Parish): This 24-hectare (59-acre) sanctuary is the island’s largestnature reserve, home to both residentand migratory waterfowl. You canspot some 25 species of waterfowlfrom November to May. Scenic trailsand footpaths cut through the prop-erty. Explore on your own or take aguided hike offered by the Depart-ment of Agriculture. See p. 177.

T H E B E S T S A I L I N G O U T F I T T E R S 11

Florida, on a routine mission. The weather was fine; no storm of any kindthreatened. A short time into the flight, the leader of the squadronradioed that they were lost, and then the radio went silent. All efforts toestablish further communication proved fruitless. A rescue plane was dis-patched to search for the squadron—but it, too, disappeared. The navyordered a search that lasted 5 days, but there was no evidence of anywreckage. To this day, the disappearance of the squadron and the rescueplane remains a mystery as deep as the waters of the region.

How do those who believe in the Bermuda Triangle legend account forthese phenomena? Some contend that the area is a time warp to anotheruniverse; others think the waters off Bermuda are the site of the lost king-dom of Atlantis, whose power sources still function deep beneath the sur-face. Still others believe that laser rays from outer space are perpetuallyfocused on the region, or that underwater signaling devices are guidinginvaders from other planets, and that these aliens have chosen the site forthe systematic collection of human beings for scientific observation andexperimentation. (Smacks of The X-Files, doesn’t it?) Some, drawing uponthe Bible’s Book of Revelation, are fully persuaded that the Bermuda Trian-gle is really one of the gates to Hell (in this version, the other gate lies mid-way between Japan and the Philippines, in the Devil’s Sea).

No matter what your views on these mysteries, you’re bound to provokean excited response by asking residents what they think about it. OnBermuda, almost everyone has an opinion about the island’s biggest andmost fascinating legend.

7 The Best Sailing OutfittersBermuda is one of the Atlantic’s majorsailing capitals. Many sail-yourself boatsare available for rent to qualified skippers,

and kayaks, paddle boats, boards, andmore are available for everyone. If you’dlike to sail on a larger craft, the outfitters

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will provide you with a captain. Here aresome of the best outfitters. For locations,see the color map “The Best of OutdoorBermuda,” at the front of this book.

• Blue Hole Water Sports (Grotto BayBeach Hotel, Hamilton Parish;& 441/293-2915; www.blueholewater.bm): Here you’ll find a largeselection of watercraft, includingSunfish, sailboards, kayaks, PaddleCats, and Sun Cats. Rentals are avail-able for up to 8 hours. See p. 150.

• Pompano Beach Club WatersportsCentre (Southampton Parish; & 441/234-0222; www.pompano.bm): Thisis the best outfitter in this tourist-laden parish. Open from May to lateOctober, it offers a variety of equip-ment, including the O’Brien Wind-surfer, a popular sailboard suitable for

one person at the intermediate oradvanced level. Its fleet also includesvessels that hold one or two people:Dolphin paddle boats, BuddyBoards, Aqua-Eye viewing boards,Aqua Finn sailboats, and kayaks.These can be rented for up to 4hours. See p. 150.

• Somerset Bridge Watersports (Som-erset Parish; & 441/234-0914): Thisis the best place to rent a Bostonwhaler, a small boat that can holdthree or four passengers. It’s an idealcraft for exploring the archipelago’suninhabited islands. This outfitterrents 4m (13-ft.) whalers and a 30-hp, 5m (16-ft.) Open Bowrider, aspeed-craft often used to pull water-skiers, which accommodates four. Seep. 150.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F B E R M U D A12

8 The Best ViewsBermuda is incredibly scenic, with lovelypanoramas and vistas unfolding at nearlyevery turn. But not all views are createdequal. Below are some of our personalfavorites. See chapter 7, “Seeing theSights,” for additional suggestions.

• Scaur Hill Fort Park: From Somer-set Bridge in Sandys Parish, head forthis fort atop the parish’s highest hill.Walk the fort’s ramparts, enjoying thevistas across Great Sound to SpanishPoint. You can also gaze north to thedockyard and take in the fine views ofSomerset Island. On a clear day, alook through the telescope reveals St.David’s Lighthouse, 23km (14 miles)away on the northeastern tip of theisland. After enjoying the fantasticviews from the fort, you can strollthrough the fort’s 9 hectares (22 acres)of beautiful gardens. See p. 167.

• Gibbs Hill Lighthouse: For an evenbetter view than the one enjoyed by

Queen Elizabeth II when she visitedthe lighthouse in 1953, climb the185 spiral steps of the lighthouse.Built in 1846, it’s the oldest cast-ironlighthouse in the world. From thetop, you can relish what islandersconsider the single finest view in allof Bermuda—a panorama of theisland and its shorelines. You can,that is, if the wind doesn’t blow youaway—be sure to hang on to the rail-ing. In heavy winds, the tower actu-ally sways. See p. 171.

• Warwick Long Bay: This stretch ofpristine pink sand is a dream beach ofthe picture-postcard variety. It backsup to towering cliffs and hills studdedwith Spanish bayonet and oleander. A6m-high (20-ft.) coral outcrop, risingsome 60m (197 ft.) offshore andresembling a sculpted boulder, addsvariety to the stunning beachscape.See p. 141.

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T H E B E S T P L A C E S TO E X P E R I E N C E O L D B E R M U D A 13

9 The Best Historic SightsSee “The Best Places to Experience OldBermuda,” below, for a description of theRoyal Naval Dockyard.

• Fort St. Catherine (St. GeorgeParish): This fort—with its tunnels,cannons, and ramparts—towers overthe beach where the shipwreckedcrew of the Sea Venture first cameashore in 1609 (becoming Bermuda’sfirst settlers). The fort was completedin 1614, and extensive rebuilding andremodeling continued until the 19thcentury. The audiovisual presentationon St. George’s defense system helpsyou better understand what you’reseeing. See p. 184.

• Scaur Hill Fort Park (Sandys Parish):Fort Scaur and Fort St. Catherinewere part of a ring of fortificationsthat surrounded Bermuda. Built bythe British navy, the fort was sup-posed to protect the Royal NavalDockyard from an attack that nevermaterialized. During World War II,U.S. Marines were billeted nearby.Overlooking Great Sound, the fort

offers views of some of the island’smost dramatic scenery. See p. 167.

• St. Peter’s Church (St. GeorgeParish): This is the oldest Anglicanhouse of worship in the WesternHemisphere. At one time virtuallyeveryone who died on Bermuda wasburied here, from governors to crimi-nals. To the west of the church liesthe graveyard of slaves. The presentchurch sits on the site of the original,which colonists built in 1612. A hur-ricane destroyed the first structure in1712, but some parts of the interiorsurvived. It was rebuilt on the samesite in 1713. See p. 183.

• Verdmont (Smith’s Parish): This1770s mansion is on property onceowned by William Sayle, founder andfirst governor of South Carolina.Filled with portraits, antiques, andchina, the house offers a rare glimpseinto a long-faded life of old-fashionedstyle and grace. Resembling a smallEnglish manor house, it’s the finesthistoric home in Bermuda. See p. 177.

10 The Best Places to Experience Old BermudaAlthough much of Bermuda is modern,the first settlers arrived in 1609. The fol-lowing places provide insights into theold, largely vanished Bermudian way oflife. See chapter 7, “Seeing the Sights,”for more details.

• The Back Streets of St. George (St.George Parish): Almost every visitorto the island has photographed the17th-century stocks on King’s Squarein historic St. George. But it’s in thenarrow back alleys and cobblestonelanes, such as Shinbone Alley, thatyou’ll really discover the town’s oldspirit. Arm yourself with a good map and wander at leisure through such places as Silk Alley (also called

Petticoat Lane), Barber’s Lane Alley(named for a former slave from SouthCarolina), Printer’s Alley (whereBermuda’s first newspaper was pub-lished), and Nea’s Alley (formerstamping ground of the Irish poetTom Moore). Finally, walk throughSomers Garden and head up the stepsto Blockade Alley. On the hill is theaptly named Unfinished Cathedral.See “Walking Tour 2: Historic St.George Town,” in chapter 8.

• The Royal Naval Dockyard (SandysParish): Nothing recaptures the mar-itime spirit of this little island colonymore than this sprawling complex ofattractions (with a multimillion-dollar

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cruise-ship dock) on Ireland Island.Britain began building this dockyardin 1809, perhaps fearing attacks on itsfleet by Napoleon or greedy pirates.Convicts and slaves provided much ofthe construction labor, and the RoyalNavy occupied the shipyard for almost150 years. It closed in 1951, and thenavy has little presence here today.The Maritime Museum—the mostimportant museum on the island—and other exhibits on Bermuda’s nau-tical heritage give you a good feel fora largely vanished era. See p. 170.

• St. David’s Island (St. GeorgeParish): Though most of Bermudalooks pristine and proper, you’ll stillfind some vestiges of rustic maritimelife on St. David’s. Some St. David’sIslanders never even bother to visitneighboring St. George, and to somelocals, a trip to the West End ofBermuda would be like a trip to themoon. St. David’s Lighthouse hasbeen a local landmark since 1879. Tosee how people used to cook and eat,drop by Black Horse Tavern (p. 136).

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11 Bermuda’s Best-Kept Secrets• St. David’s Island (St. George Parish):

Part of St. George Parish, this remotelittle island is often missed by manyvisitors, but it represents Bermuda atits most authentic (see listing above).

• Remote, Natural Settings (SandysParish; & 441/234-1831): Bermudastill has some oases that aren’t overrunwith visitors. One such place is theHeydon Trust, along Somerset Road,a sanctuary for migratory birds. It’s atrue walk through nature, with flow-ering bushes and citrus orchards. Seep. 177.

• Crystal Caves (Hamilton Parish; & 441/293-0640): A spelunker’sparadise, Bermuda has the highestconcentration of limestone caves inthe world. They form one of theisland’s major natural wonderlands.Their surreal formations took mil-lions of years to come into being, andthe great stalactites and stalagmiteshave a gothic grandeur. CrystalCaves, at Bailey’s Bay, are the best.Discovered in 1907, these caveshouse crystal-clear Cahow Lake. Seep. 178.

12 The Best Resorts for Lovers & HoneymoonersBermuda has long been a favorite destina-tion of newlyweds. Its hotels, from deluxeresorts to guesthouses, attract lovers of allkinds looking for a little peace, solitude,and seclusion.

Although some couples seek out smallcottages and guesthouses, most prefer apackage offered by one of the splashyresort hotels. The following resorts fea-ture not only romance but also some ofthe best deals around.

Note: It’s a good idea to consult atravel agent for help in getting the bestbargain. Before you call any of thesehotels directly, see “Packages for the

Independent Traveler,” in chapter 2. Forfull hotel reviews, see chapter 4, “Whereto Stay.” For locations, see the color map“The Best of Outdoor Bermuda,” at thefront of this book.

• Elbow Beach Hotel (Paget Parish;& 441/236-3535; www.mandarinoriental.com/bermuda): This hotelpromises “marriages made in heaven.”Its Romance Packages include a dailybreakfast, plus a candlelit dinner fortwo in your room on the first night.Upon departure, newlyweds receive acopy of the Elbow Beach Cookbook.See p. 76.

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• The Fairmont Southampton(Southampton Parish; & 800/441-1414 in the U.S., 800/268-7176 inCanada; or 441/238-8000; www.fairmont.com/southampton): Theisland’s most luxurious hotel doeseverything it can to attract honey-mooners seeking lots of activities,from watersports to nighttime diver-sions (other than those in the honey-moon suite). Its honeymoon packages,which start at 4 days and 3 nights,include breakfast and dinner on aMAP (modified American plan)“dine-around plan” (dinner andbreakfast are included in the hotelrate, but you can dine in any of thetwo Princess resorts’ restaurants), abottle of champagne, a basket offruit, admission to the exercise club,and even a special-occasion cake, plusa souvenir photo and a watercolorprint by a local artist. See p. 72.

• Grotto Bay Beach Resort (Hamil-ton Parish; & 800/582-3190 in theU.S., 800/463-0851 in Canada, or441/293-0188; www.grottobay.com):This resort, which actively caters tohoneymooners, features everythingfrom midnight swims at a privatebeach to cozy lovers’ nests with pri-vate balconies overlooking the ocean.The honeymoon packages includeromantic dinners and arrangements

for cruises and walking tours, as wellas optional champagne, fruit, andflowers. See p. 79.

• Harmony Club (Paget Parish; & 888/427-6664 in the U.S., or 441/236-3500; www.harmonyclub.com): Ifyou shun the big splashy resorts thatattract a lot of families with children,head to this small, couples-only all-inclusive resort. Guests are housed inromantic Queen Anne–style build-ings in a setting of formal gardensand gazebos. Dinners are served bycandlelight on fine china and crystal.Honeymoon packages are available.See p. 83.

• Wyndham Bermuda Resort & Spa(Southampton Parish; & 877/999-3223 in the U.S. or Canada, or 441/238-8122; www.wyndham.com):You’ll find champagne chilling inyour room when you arrive—and itjust gets better from there. To set themood, the staff will arrange an intro-ductory horse-and-buggy ride in theold Bermuda tradition. The follow-ing day, they’ll lend you a motorscooter for getting around. Thesports director offers one free tennisor scuba lesson. The hotel is right onthe beach, and also boasts a fullyequipped, professionally staffedhealth spa. See p. 73.

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13 The Best Places to Stay with the KidsBermuda is more kid-friendly than anyplace we know in the Caribbean or TheBahamas. It’s a safe, clean environment ina politically stable country. Nearly allBermuda hotels go the extra mile to wel-come families with children, but the fol-lowing are our top choices. Turn tochapter 4, “Where to Stay,” for fullreviews. For locations, see the color map“The Best of Outdoor Bermuda,” at thefront of this book.

• The Fairmont Southampton (South-ampton Parish; & 800/441-1414 inthe U.S., 800/268-7176 in Canada,or 441/238-8000; www.fairmont.com/southampton): From June throughLabor Day, this hotel features the bestchildren’s program in Bermuda. Chil-dren under 17 stay free; and if theparents choose the MAP (breakfastand dinner included in the rates),kids also get free meals. With itsmany sports facilities, including two

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freshwater pools and 11 tenniscourts, the Fairmont is definitely forfamilies who enjoy the sporting life.The former Touch Club has beenredesigned as Lenny’s Loft, a socialcenter for children’s activities. FromLenny’s Loft, kids are taken onexcursions around the island. See p. 72.

• Grotto Bay Beach Resort (Hamil-ton Parish; & 800/582-3190 in theU.S., 800/463-0851 in Canada, or441/293-0188; www.grottobay.com):With its excellent summer children’sprogram, this hotel attracts manyfamilies. It sits on 8.5 tropically land-scaped hectares (21 acres), so guestsusually don’t mind its relative isola-tion across from the airport. Theswimming pool has been blasted out

of natural rock, and there are subter-ranean caves to explore. Beachsidebarbecues and other activities makethis a lively place. See p. 79.

• Elbow Beach Hotel (Paget Parish;& 441/236-3535; www.mandarinoriental.com/bermuda): This long-time family favorite, on one of thebest beaches in Bermuda, allows chil-dren under 13 to stay free when shar-ing a room with their parents. It alsooffers a year-round “Family ValuePackage,” which grants very low ratesfor four people (usually two childrenand two parents) and includes buffetbreakfast, 4 hours of babysitting, 1hour of paddle boat rental, 2 hours oftennis, and free passes to the zoo andaquarium. Call the hotel or ask atravel agent for details. See p. 76.

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14 The Best Hotel BargainsFor locations, see the color map “TheBest of Outdoor Bermuda,” at the frontof this book.

• Granaway Guest House & Cottage(Warwick Parish; & 441/236-3747;www.granaway.com): This formerprivate home from 1734 is a virtualpicture-postcard cliché of Bermudiancharm, with its pink walls and white-washed roof. Opening onto views ofGreat Sound, it has been handsomelyconverted to receive guests—even theformer slave quarters are now com-fortable. See p. 99.

• Astwood Cove (Warwick Parish;& 800/637-4116 in the U.S., or441/236-0984; www.astwoodcove.com): This place is definitely a goodbuy in pricey Bermuda. For familiesseeking a self-contained studio orsuite apartment with a fully equippedkitchenette and a private porch orpatio, this is a great choice. You pre-pare your own meals and use thehotel’s English bone china and wine

glasses. Studio apartments have sofabeds that can accommodate a thirdperson. See p. 93.

• Salt Kettle House (Paget Parish;& 441/236-0407). The name is notthe only thing charming about thisinformal and secluded 2-centuries-old cottage. It’s a real discovery, andbargain hunters eagerly seek it out,preferring it to the glitz of themegaresort hotels. You can swim inthe nearby cove, retiring to yourwaterside cottage at night. See p. 99.

• Rosemont (City of Hamilton, Pem-broke Parish; & 800/367-0040 inthe U.S., 800/267-0040 in Canada,or 441/292-1055; www.rosemont.bm): A collection of housekeepingcottages near the Hamilton Princess,Rosemont has long been a familyfavorite, offering a central location ata good price. The site offers panoramicviews of Hamilton Harbour and theGreat Sound. Guests often preparetheir own meals. See p. 95.

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15 The Best RestaurantsYou don’t come to Bermuda for grandcuisine. That said, there are quite a fewplaces in which to enjoy a memorablemeal.

• Aqua (Devonshire Parish; & 441/236-2332): In the Ariel Sands Hotel,this restaurant, owned in part byactor Michael Douglas, has quicklybecome one of the island’s best, withits savory blend of Bermudian andinternational recipes. Expect every-thing from Cajun cookery to Indian-style tandoori dishes. See p. 132.

• Ascots (City of Hamilton; PembrokeParish; & 441/295-9644): In theRoyal Palms Hotel, this restaurantspecializes in a Continental menuthat is mostly inspired by France andItaly, and does it exceedingly well.Classic techniques and first-rateingredients are combined to makethis one of the most enduring restau-rants on the island. See p. 120.

• Black Horse Tavern (St. GeorgeParish; & 441/297-1991): Whenyou crave good, hearty food served ina casual atmosphere, this is the placeto come. Islanders fill most of thetables at night, ordering shark hash orcurried conch. See p. 136.

• Lobster Pot & Boat House Bar(City of Hamilton, Pembroke Parish;& 441/292-6898): If you don’t findthe local foodies at the restaurantsdiscussed above, they’ll surely be atthis local favorite, enjoying some ofthe island’s best regional dishes. Blackrum and sherry peppers are the secretingredients in the fish chowder, andbaked fish and lobster are sure totempt you. See p. 125.

• Mediterraneo Bar & Ristorante(City of Hamilton, Pembroke Parish;& 441/296-5277): The hottest new restaurant in Bermuda, as itsname suggests, is the place to go to

experience the savory cuisine of theMediterranean, including an array offresh fish and shellfish along withsucculent pastas and piping-hot piz-zas. The chefs also roam other partsof the world for culinary inspiration.See p. 122.

• Newport Room (SouthamptonParish; & 441/238-8000): Part ofthe Fairmont Southampton Princess,this nautically decorated restaurantattracts an upscale crowd, especiallyyachters. The glistening teak decormakes it the most expensively fur-nished restaurant in Bermuda, andthe French cuisine is worthy of thedecor. The rack of lamb with mixed-nut crust is the stuff of which memo-ries are made. See p. 111.

• Silk (City of Hamilton; PembrokeParish & 441/295-0449): Some crit-ics, including the discriminatingreaders of Condé Nast Traveller, arehailing Silk as the island’s finestrestaurant. We are inclined to agreeafter our most recent feast here.Recipes are inspired by the ancientKingdom of Siam—read “Thai” tomodern palates. See p 127.

• Tamarisk Dining Room (SandysParish; & 441/234-0331): This is anelegant enclave at the western tip ofBermuda. Housed in one of theisland’s premier accommodations,Cambridge Beaches, it offers excel-lent service and a frequently changingmenu of impeccably prepared inter-national cuisine. For your maincourse, you can’t do better than juicytenderloin of beef with grain mustardand blanched garlic sauce. The winecellar is up to the high standards ofthe menu. See p. 107.

• Tom Moore’s Tavern (HamiltonParish; & 441/293-8020): The Irishpoet Tom Moore reportedly was a

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frequent visitor to this restaurant,which dates from 1652 and overlooksWalsingham Bay. The menu, how-ever, is no relic—it’s quite innovative.Duck is a specialty, as is Bermudalobster; but who can forget the quailin puff pastry stuffed with foie gras?See p. 134.

• Waterlot Inn (Southampton Parish;& 441/238-8000): In a historic innand warehouse that’s part of the Fair-mont Southampton Princess, thisrestaurant serves the island’s mostfamous Sunday brunch, but it’s alsoan ideal choice for dinner. Everybodyfrom Eleanor Roosevelt to MarkTwain has praised the Mediterraneancuisine. See p. 112.

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