scratch and paint repair

Scratch and Paint Repair

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Paint & Scratch Repair

Table of Contents

I. Gathering your tools and material II. Prep for base color III. Applying Base coat IV. Apply clear coat V. Compound and Color Sand VI. Paint Pen instructions VII. Spray can instructions VIII. Tri-color instructions IX. Dent removal tips

X. Frequently asked questions

XI. Forms

This guide will give you a basic understanding of the tools, material and techniques for basic scratch and ding repair. We will start out by explaining the material’s and tools required. Next we will explain how to prep and repair the area for base coat application. After the base coat has been applied, we will explain how to prep and apply the clear coat. Finally we will explain how to color sand and compound the finish for the final result.

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I. Gathering your tools and material

First step is ordering your base color for the vehicle.

You will need to locate the VIN Number, this stands for Vehicle Identification Number. The VIN can be located on the driver side bottom corner of the windshield. Next locate the vehicle name plate which is usually located at the driver side door. If you can not find it, try looking under the hood or trunk. The name plate should have exterior or ext followed by letters and numbers. These numbers will allow you to order the correct paint match. Depending on the severity of the scratch or ding you will need the following items: For deep dents and imperfections you will need a lightweight auto body filler designed for general repairs. This will reduce sandpaper clogging and allow sanding to a fine finish.

For large scratches you will need Fast drying lacquer putty. This sands easily and quickly. It is great for filling rough spots and minor imperfections. Another benefit is that it is shrink resistant and dries smooth. Can be used over bondo and primed surfaces. After final coat of spot putty, simply spray a coat of primer and sand smooth.

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Most repairs will require primer. If bare metal or plastic is visible primer must be applied. Primer is also great for filling scratches. Primer is also designed to allow the base coat to adhere to metal, plastic and filler.

Base coat is the base color. This is the most important part of the repair as the paint must match the existing paint as accurate as possible. You can find additional help at:

www.paintscratch.com

Next is clear coat. The purpose of clear coat is to provide a rich deep gloss finish also known as DOI, or Distinction of Image in the industry. It also provides protection to the base coat from the elements, including the harmful UV (Ultra-violet) rays of the sun. Clear coats became popular in the early 1990s and currently over 90% of new cars feature a clear coat as the top (exposed) surface.

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The best and easiest way to determine if you are dealing with a clear coat is to check the owner’s manual of the car. If that is not an option, apply a small amount of polish to a rag that is not the same color as the car and apply it to a not normally seen paint surface. If the color does not appear in the cloth surface, then the vehicle should have a clear coat.

Next, automotive grade lacquer thinner will be needed. This is automotive grade and not the lacquer thinner that you would find at your local hardware store.

Next, gather up the wet and dry sand paper. 100 for heavy sanding like body filler. 320 to scuff bare metal and sand body filler. 400 for rough prep of the repair surface and knocking down filler putty. 600 for fine prep and between coats. 1200 is used for cleaning up blemishes such as dust, bugs, orange peal and color sanding. It also helps save time before compounding as it cuts a little deeper than compound. 2500 for surface prep before compounding and color sanding.

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Orbital sander is optional and not required. Using your hand with a soft sanding pad will simply take a little longer and more effort. You can pick these pads up at any hardware or auto body supply store. The following site carries a good line of the tools needed:

www.autobodystore.com This is an optional item. An orbital sander will cut time in half when you have larger areas to sand. For small scratches, you will not want to use the orbital sander as it will remove to large of an area. Recommended type to buy is a 6 inch Chicago orbital sander. It is lightweight and oil free. It consumes 16.6 CFM and is low vibration. It is also very quiet due to the built in silencer. Another feature is the central-vacuum for collecting the particles from being air born. This is great for dry sanding. Online store:

www.northerntool.com

Orbital Sander Model# CP7250CV

3M blue or green tape for masking off. This tape is excellent as it is easily removed without leaving behind sticky adhesive. You can buy 1” up to 3” wide tape. It is advised to buy 2” as this will be mostly used.

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Plastic for protecting the surrounding area from overspray.

Foam brush or paint roller for larger areas for applying primer and build up of base coat application. This is great as it will save you time from paint gun clean up.

Lint free cloth which will pick up any dust and particles.

Buckets/Cups for applying primer and paint as well as clean up.

Air brush is perfect for the small touch up repairs. When using an air brush the paint or clear coat will need to be thinned 1 part paint or clear coat and 2 - 3 parts thinner

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Gravity feed HVLP Paint gun stands for High volume low pressure. This gun is designed to increase transfer efficiency by eliminating excessive over spray creates high VOC emissions and material waste. These can range from $75.00 up to $1,000 for professional grade. For general purpose paint guns as shown here will run around $75.00. This gun is perfect for small projects. You will usually have to color sand after your final coat with cheaper guns. While spraying, always wear a mask and goggles when spraying. It is also a good idea to wear rubber gloves. Next, an air compressor, air hose and (10 micron) air filter or better. This gun can be purchased at: Harbor Freight

www.harborfreight.com

Save paint and get a superior finish at the same time! High volume low pressure sprayer reduces overspray so that more paint goes on your work, less into the air. Fine adjustment knob for air flow. Stainless steel needle and tip for use with water based finishes. Includes air regulator.

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Other options instead of buying an air compressor and HVLP pain gun is touch up paint in a spray can. Each Spray can cover approximately six square feet. This coverage may vary depending on the paint color with darker colors requiring more paint than lighter colors. The amount of actual paint in the 12.5 oz. spray can is around 4-5 ounces with the balance composed of thinner and propellant.

Found at: www.paintscratch.com

Paint Pens are similar to a felt marker with a much firmer chiseled tip. The paint is easier to control and avoids the "blob" problem often seen using a brush. If you have very small areas (less than a pencil eraser size) to repair, this is the fine tool for the job. Paint pens are filled with a 1/2 oz. of paint and are available for the basecoat, clearcoat, primer and midcoat.

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If you are repairing plastic or rubber bumpers, fenders etc. You will need to buy rubberized primer and clear coat.

Last but not least you will want soap such as ivory dishwashing soap to help cut grease and dirt as well as a chamois, bucket and wash mitt.

For an updated list of where to buy the above items, feel free to visit our site at:

www.see2learn.com/paint

A check off list can be found at the back of this guide which will include additional items needed.

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II. Prep for base color

Several factors to consider before you apply the base coat. Review the repair area to determine which category the repair area falls under. Category 1: Large Dent requiring body filler Category 2: Small Dent requiring filler putty Category 3: Deep scratch with metal showing Category 4: Minor scratch – no metal showing Category 1 will require heavy sanding to expose the metal surface. A dent puller or paint less dent puller will also be needed to straighten out the dent. The goal is to use as little body filler as possible. Several thin coats of body filler will be required till the surface is built up and smooth. Several coats of primer will follow to fill in grooves and allow the base paint to adhere to the surface. Once the surface is completely ready, base paint is then applied. Category 2 will require minor sanding with 600 to rough up the edges and feather out the repair area. Several thin layers of filler putty will be applied to level and smooth out the surface. Once the surface is smooth, several coats of primer can be applied to allow for the base paint to adhere to the surface and also allow for any sanding grooves to be filled in. Once the surface is primed, sand with 600 grit sandpaper till smooth but not removing or sanding through the primer. Once this is accomplished, the base paint can be applied.

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Category 3 will require minor sanding with 600 wet/dry to rough up the edges and feather out the repair area. If you prefer not to use filler putty, primer can be used to fill in the scratch. Three to four coats will usually be required for filling in minor scratches. Once the surface is built up and smooth, the base coat can now be applied. Category 4 will require mild sanding with 600 grit and several coats of base coat to fill in the minor scratch. Once the surface is smooth a final base coat shall be applied. Special note: Flexible bumpers will require rubberized primer and a flex additive to the clear coat. The base paint will not require any additive. Flexible bumpers can be heated with a heat gun to straighten out. If the bumper has cracks, a two part epoxy is used to seal and repair the crack. The repair kit can be bought at: www.paintscratch.com. Once you have chosen your category, you can follow the check off list found at the back of this guide. In this lesson we will walk through a category 2 repair. The only difference with a category 1 repair is using a dent puller and using body filler to remove a larger dent. To begin, fill a bucket with water and dishwashing soap to help cut grease and dirt. Scrub the area thoroughly removing any dirt and grease. Next, wet sand the area with 600 grit (sandpaper). Lightly sand at least a foot around the repair area to handle the over spray but do not remove the clear coat or paint. This will also help blending the repair. If you have deep scratches, you will feather the hard edges smooth. Finish washing the area thoroughly and dry it with a chamois. To ensure the water is removed, blow the cracks and area where water may settle and drip during the spray session.

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Using a bondo card, apply a small blob of filler on the bondo card. Spread the putty across the repair area filling in low spots. Several thin coats may be necessary. Wait 25 to 30 minutes for the filler to dry before sanding. While the filler is drying, lay out a sheet of plastic over the repair area and trace out with a felt pen to the nearest edge or contour.

Once the filler has thoroughly dried, use 400 grit wet/dry sand paper to knock down the area. Do not over sand the area. Use 600 grit wet/dry sand paper to smooth out and dress up the area. Run your hand over the area to feel for any indents or any imperfections. Another coat of filler may be needed if it is still not straight. It is a good idea to use a light to show any imperfections. Finish washing the area thoroughly and dry it with a chamois. To ensure the water is removed, blow the cracks and area where water may settle and drip during the spray session. Use a lint free cloth and remove any particles on the surface prior to applying the primer. The simplest way to apply the primer and eliminate paint gun clean up is to use a paint roller or foam brush. Using a foam brush is cheap and easy to use for applying primer.

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Primer is necessary to allow the base coat to adhere to the surface. Shake the primer thoroughly before use. Pour it in a small cup or bucket and brush several thin layers of primer on the area. Do not worry about keeping it even, the purpose is to cover and build up over the area prior to applying the base paint. In between coats can be applied several minutes apart. After you have applied enough primer wait 24 hours before sanding the primer and preparing it for the base coat.

III. Apply base coat Sand the primed area with 600 wet/dry sand paper. Wash the area thoroughly with soap and water and dry with a chamois. To ensure the water is removed, blow the cracks and area where water may settle and drip during the spray session. Mask off the area and lay plastic over the surrounding area to protect from overspray. Before you pour paint into the gun, prepare and adjust the spray gun. During the base coat build up, set the fan setting pattern to a narrow setting since we will be spraying a small area. This will concentrate more paint on the area needed. It is also a good idea to place a light over the area you are spraying. This will help see the paint and the layer thickness. Do not attempt to spray in the wind or in direct sunlight. Outdoor temperatures should be no less than 55 degrees and no more that 80 degrees. Low to no humidity is ideal for spraying the base paint as well. Generally when spraying large areas, you will chase your “dry edge” around the car. This can be done several times until the paint has been built up. Small areas like in this sample, you will need to spray and wait several minutes for the paint to start to set. You can apply 3 or 4 layers in a short period of time.

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Before you begin, test your spray pattern and gun settings on a piece of cardboard. 60 pounds PSI is recommended from the compressor, adjust the settings on the gun for steady even paint flow. When spraying the gun, point the gun straight, holding the tip about 12 inches away. If the gun is angled, the paint sprayed will be thicker on one side than the other. Move the arm, not your wrist, to keep the gun straight. To avoid excessive buildup, start the gun movement outside the repair area and pull the trigger several inches before the repair surface to be painted. Moving the gun evenly and square to the work area, release the trigger several inches past the repair surface. Overlap each pass about an inch to avoid sags or thin spots. If you have sags, runs, bugs or dust in the paint, leave it alone and let it dry. This can easily be sanded out prior to the next step. Once you have applied the base paint, you will need to wait 24 hours before applying the clear coat. Now that the base paint is completed, the paint gun will need to be cleaned. Paint that has dried in a sprayer's hose or gun can cause clogs that make the sprayer splatter. Pour out any extra paint. Pour lacquer thinner in the paint gun and shake well. Dump out the thinner in a containment container and repeat until you have cleared the majority of the paint from the paint gun canister. Next, fill the paint gun with lacquer thinner and spray the solvent into a containment container until the thinner is clear and free from paint. Then, remove the tip and soak it in lacquer thinner, rinse out the cup with the same solvent, then run more solvent through the lines and the cup until all the paint is flushed out and the solvent runs clear and clean. *** NOTE: You are required to contain all lacquer thinner, paint and any other chemicals used for proper disposal.

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We recommend buying a standard automotive oil container found at any automotive supply house used for changing oil. It is illegal to dump chemicals and paint in the storm drain, sewer system and directly into the earth. You must dispose of any chemicals and paint at a designated disposal site. Recommended sites are your local auto supply store, gas stations, local dump which usually will have special chemical waste containers.

IV. Apply clear coat Sand the repair area with 600 wet/dry sand paper. Wash the area thoroughly with soap and water and dry it with a chamois. To ensure the water is removed, blow the cracks and area where water may settle and drip during the spray session. Mask off and lay plastic over the area you want to protect from overspray. Prepare and adjust the spray for the clear coat application. During the clear coat stage, set the fan setting pattern wide. It is also a good idea to place a light over the area to be sprayed. This will help see the clear coat and the layer thickness as it is being applied. Do not attempt to spray in the wind or in direct sunlight. Outdoor temperatures should be no less than 55 degrees and no more that 80 degrees. Low to no humidity is ideal for spraying the clear coat as well. Spray and wait several minutes for the clear coat to start to set. You can apply 3 or 4 layers in a short period of time. Before you begin, test out your spray pattern and gun settings on a piece of cardboard. 60 pounds PSI is recommended from the compressor. The paint gun will need to be adjusted for steady even flow.

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When spraying the gun, point the gun straight, holding the tip about 12 inches away. If the gun is angled, the spray will be thicker on one side than the other. Move the arm, not your wrist, to keep the gun straight. If sags, runs, bugs or dust falls into the wet clear coat, leave it alone as you will sand it out prior to buffing. Most spots are easily removed. Some may require a 2nd coat for that final touch. To avoid excessive buildup, start the gun movement outside the repair area and pull the trigger several inches before the area that the base paint will be applied. Moving the gun evenly and square to the work area, release the trigger several inches after the area repair surface. Overlap each pass about an inch to avoid sags or thin spots. Once you have completed the clear coat, you will need to clean the paint gun. Follow the instructions detailed in the previous step. Wait 3-4 days before rubbing compound is applied.

V. Compound and Color Sand Allow the clear coat to dry 3 to 4 days. After 3 to 4 days compound and color sand the finish. Color sand will help blend and remove dust, bugs and orange peel. Most imperfections will be corrected in the color sand process. If the final coat is good, then simply rub the area with 3M rubbing compound. Use medium grade compound instead of heavy duty rubbing compound. Heavy duty compound will cut too much and dull the finish.

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Color sanding can be done with an orbital sander, hand sand or a block sander. If using a block sander ensure you have no hard edges, which may cut and scratch into the paint. Recommended block sander is using a piece of balsa wood or rubber block sander. Another type is foam hand sanding pad. This will allow you to feel the surface more accurately. First clean the area thoroughly to remove any dust or particles that will scratch the surface. Mix a little dishwashing soap in a bucket with water and wet the surface. Start with 1,200 grit wet/dry, roll the sand paper and do not crease the paper, this may cause hard corners and can scratch the paint. Rub the area keeping the paper as flat as possible. Using moderate pressure, run the paper several different directions as to ensure even cuts. After rubbing shortly, rinse the area off and review the area. It is recommended to use a light to help show any imperfections. Review the area to determine if more sanding is necessary. After 1,200 grit sand paper is used, apply 2,500 wet/dry for final sand. Again use water with soap added. You will feel the paint being cut during the sanding operation. Once the paper starts to glide and skid over the paint, this will tell you that you have cut through the 1,200 wet/dry. Now you are ready for medium grade 3M rubbing compound. I like to use a (high speed) buffer, which is not required but will save time and effort. Before buffing, make sure you wear safety glasses, as particles will be air born.

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First clean the buffing pad and break up any clumps of polish that may by left over from the last use. Next dampen the pad but do not soak it. Spin at high speed, this will remove any extra water. Now, apply the compound on the pad by applying the compound in circles. Using your fingers spread the compound around the pad. Now, start with low speed or bumping the trigger as the compound is spread. Always start in a small area and as you move to a new area, slightly overlap each area. Once you have spread the compound, start by running the buffer at medium speed from right to left, followed by up and down. Once you have spread the compound out, raise the RPM and using moderate pressure until the compound starts to dry, then use light pressure until the surface is brought to a shine. It is important not to hold the buffer in one location, as it will burn through your paint. A good indication is when the buffer starts to grab, this is caused by the surface getting hot and the paint heating up and the pad grabbing into the paint. Never stay in one spot or concentrate on high spots or edges. These areas are real easy to burn. Increase the RPM and use less pressure as to just polish the area as the compound begins to disappear. Now, take a polishing rag and clean off the area. If you see a spot or area that needs a little attention, repeat the process. Once you are satisfied with the repair, now simply wash the vehicle. Wait 30 days before applying any wax on the repair area.

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VI. Paint pen instructions

How to Apply Touch Up Paint

Using the Paint Pens Very Important! Do not depress the paint pen directly on your vehicle. To start the flow of paint, gently tap the paint pen on a hard surface to start the paint flowing. Make sure you shake the paint pen thoroughly. If you push and hold the paint pen down, all the paint will flow out of the tube creating a mess!. If you have never used the paint pen before, just go slowly and keep practicing depressing the nib on the end until you can control the paint flow. Wipe off excess paint before applying to your vehicle.

Quick Steps-Paint Pens 1) Clean the area (soap and water or wax and grease remover) 2) Apply very thin coats of basecoat. 3) Apply Clearcoat over the basecoat. 4) Use Rubbing Compound (apply with clean soft cotton only, paper products will scratch your paint surface) to smooth and shine the area. Always test the rubbing compound on your vehicle in an inconspicuous place to check for surface compatibility and shine. 5) If this is your first time, try one small chip from start to finish before repairing other areas.

Fixing Paint Chips and Scratches The maximum size you should attempt to repair with a paint pen is up to the size of a pencil eraser. Anything larger should be spray painted. The paint pen was not designed to be brushed over a larger area. It is instead used to apply paint to small chips and can also be used on scratches.

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Temperature Make sure the temperature is at least 60? F degree’s. Paint pens can be applied in much colder conditions than spray can.

Clean and Protect the Area Wash the area with soap and water, then use a wax and grease remover or equivalent product (some painters have suggested tar and insect remover, available at the supermarket) before starting the project. You may wish to use masking tape (automotive quality only!) all around the scratch or chipped area to prevent accidentally marring the surface.

Rust The first thing to determine is if the scratch has started to rust. We are talking about a surface scratch and not rust that is bubbling up beneath the paint, as this is too far-gone for touch-up paint! If the area is rusty, you should take a little extra effort to remove all traces of rust using 400 grit sandpaper or a wire brush. Follow this with Mar-Hyde One-Step Rust Converter (sold at: www.paintscratch.com) and apply this to the bare metal. Just follow the directions on the product.

Applying Primer/Paint or Clearcoat with the Paint Pen To start the paint flowing in the paint pen, depress the nib on a hard surface until you see the paint start to flow. Do not do this on your vehicle as you could end up with too much paint on the tip of the pen. Wipe the excess paint off and apply thin coats allowing each coat to dry for twenty minutes. If you need more paint, do not depress the nib on your vehicle to release more paint, do it off the vehicle somewhere. The paint pen is very nice to work with because you can really control the thickness of the paint and avoid paint blobs completely.

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Primer If you have an unpainted surface, either bare metal, plastic, rubber, etc., APPLY PRIMER! Primer is made to stick to unpainted surfaces and paint is designed to stick to primer! Primer can also be used to fill small imperfections in the surface. Clean the area of all dust with a tack rag and apply primer to the unpainted surfaces. Let the primer dry thoroughly before applying the color coat. You can spray several light coats of primer and let it dry overnight. Lightly sand the primed area with #320 grit sandpaper followed by #600 wet and dry. Rubberized primer is only needed when you are spraying the paint and is not needed when using the paint pens. Applying the Basecoat The Basecoat is the actual color you have ordered. Apply several thin coats of paint to build up the chip to the same depth as the surrounding surface. If the paint pen becomes dry, do not depress the tip on the vehicle! Depress the tip off the vehicle and wipe off the excess. Let it dry for ten to twenty minutes between coats. Let the paint dry thoroughly before applying the clearcoat. You can let it dry overnight. You can also use rubbing compound to smooth the basecoat before applying clearcoat as this will not scratch the surrounding area.

Clearcoat Make sure the basecoat is dry. Apply several thin coats of the clearcoat, drying for ten to twenty minutes between each coat. You may sand the clearcoat to remove imperfections. Use 1200 grit wet and dry sandpaper and wet sand the area smooth using plenty of water. Let the area dry and use a good quality automotive rubbing compound to polish the area. Make sure you use a clean soft cotton fabric such as a T-Shirt. Wait 30 days before applying automotive wax. Don't use a bath towel, wash cloth, etc. Flex is never added to the clearcoat paint pen and is only needed if you are spraying the paint.

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Using the Rubbing Compound Rubbing compound is not normally needed when using the paint pen but you can apply it to the entire area to make the area smoother and shinier. Let the clearcoat dry for at least three days before using the rubbing compound. Use a clean, very soft cloth like an old tee shirt (for example DO NOT USE PAPER PRODUCTS as the wood fibers will scratch the paint!). Place a small quantity of rubbing compound on the vehicle and use circular strokes and apply even pressure to the vehicle. It's almost like waxing a vehicle except the rubbing compound is like an extremely fine liquid sandpaper. Buff with a clean cloth to a high gloss. (You may want to spray some paint and clearcoat on a smooth surface and practice to get the feel of it.)

Sometimes lots of pressure is required to make the clear shine. The rubbing compound can also be applied by machine, but careful, it's very easy to burn the paint! You can get the same results by hand, it will just take a bit longer. The rubbing compound is also good for removing oxidation from your finish. Let the paint dry for 30 days before a good quality automotive wax is applied.

Waxing Allow the paint to dry for 30 days before waxing.

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VII. Spray can instructions

How to Apply Touch Up Paint using our Spray Cans

Quick Steps-Spray Cans 1) Clean the area (soap and water or wax and grease remover). 2) Scuff the area well with wet and dry sandpaper. 3) Check humidity (below 50%) and temperature (around 70 degrees F). 4) Spray even wet coats of basecoat. You can sand the paint between coats, but don't sand the final coat. Two wet coats should be sufficient. Allow each coat to dry 20 minutes before recoating. Some colors require more paint. 5) Make sure the basecoat has dried thoroughly and then spray the clearcoat. Spray the clearcoat beyond the basecoat to a good stopping point such as the edge of the panel. Two wet coats should be sufficient. 6) Let the clearcoat dry for at least three days. Use Rubbing Compound (apply with clean soft cotton only, paper products or dirty fabrics will scratch your paint surface) to smooth and shine the area. Always test the rubbing compound on your vehicle in an inconspicuous place to check for surface compatibility and shine. Without this step, the paint will not shine properly. 7) If this is your first time, try one small area from start to finish before repairing other areas.

Problems: Paint will not shine.

Important! Make sure the temperature is at least 55 degrees F but around 70 degrees F is ideal.

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Spray Nozzles Do not use spray nozzles from another spray can! Swapping nozzles can puncture the plunger system and cause damage making the can unusable.

Spray Can Information Spray cans that are 12.5 ounces will provide excellent coverage at about six square feet (with two wet coats) so you can estimate how many cans you will need by measuring the square footage of the area you are painting. Blending the paint into adjacent panels will achieve a much nicer and less noticeable repair especially for metallic paints. The most important thing to remember is to not spray heavy coats. Do not apply so little paint that it dries as you apply it as this creates dry spots. Spray in a dust free area. Again, practice AWAY from your vehicle! Clean and Protect the Area Wash the area with soap and water, then use a wax and grease remover or equivalent product (some painters have suggested tar and insect remover, available at the supermarket) before starting the project. You may wish to use masking tape (automotive quality only!) all around the scratch or chipped area to prevent accidentally marring the surface. Paint Spraying-Humidity and Temperature Warning! Make sure you do not spray in wet or humid conditions! To test the humidity, spray some of the clearcoat and see how it dries. If it dries with a whitish haze or streaks, it's too humid to paint!

Rust The first thing to determine is if the scratch has started to rust. We are talking about a surface scratch and not rust that is bubbling up beneath the paint, as this is too far-gone for touch-up paint!

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If the area is rusty, you should take a little extra effort to remove all traces of rust using 320 grit sandpaper or a wire brush. Follow this with Mar-Hyde One-Step Rust Converter (available at: www.paintscratch.com) and apply this to the bare metal. Just follow the directions on the product.

Sanding Clean the area as described above then sand the area you wish to spray with #600 grit sandpaper. If you are spraying a panel such as a door, you must decide how far you are going to paint and scuff the entire area. See below for additional information.

Primer If you have an unpainted surface, either bare metal, plastic, rubber, etc., APPLY PRIMER! Primer is made to stick to unpainted surfaces and paint is designed to stick to primer! Professional automotive painters use lots of primer. You can spray primer over unpainted surfaces, existing paint (as long as you have sanded the paint) and over body filler. Use primer to cover small imperfections and to build up scratched areas to a smooth surface. For deeper scratches, we recommend a product called lacquer putty available at most auto parts stores. The putty is applied in several thin coats to slowly build up the surface. Use a final coat of primer over the putty. Primer has a tendency to shrink so let it dry according to the manufacturers instructions and apply several coats to achieve a smooth surface. You can let it dry overnight. A rubberized primer is required on Flexible bumpers. (Available from www.PaintScratch.com)

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Paint Spraying-Technique Tape surrounding areas to protect against over spray. Use a tack rag to pick up any foreign matter on the vehicle. Spray even, overlapping coats. The painted area should be evenly wet with no dry spots. You can sand out imperfections later. Let the basecoat dry for approximately 20 minutes and then apply a second coat. Let the basecoat dry overnight and wet sand the area using 1200 wet and dry sandpaper to sand out imperfections, dust, etc.

Spray a final coat of paint over the area but do not sand it. Let the paint dry thoroughly before applying clearcoat. You can let it dry overnight. For best results, metallic paints should be blended into the surrounding area.

Paint Spraying-Paint to an edge After you have painted the repaired area, slowly feather the paint out on either side of the repaired area. Professional shops will often paint to a boundary such as the edge of a door, a panel line on your car, a moulding, etc. The idea is not to leave a paint line right in the middle of a panel..

Watch for Drips! Your spraying your final coat and suddenly a big drip falls from the can right in the center of your work! Don't try to wipe it off, you will make the situation worse. The best thing to do is just let it dry and wet sand the drip away and re-coat the area. Some of our customers have reported wrapping the spray can with a rag to catch any unforeseen drips. This even happens to professional painters so just be aware of it and check the nozzle and can for excess paint build up.

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Note on Spraying Metallic Paints If you apply too much paint to the surface or do not wait long enough between coats, the metallic flake in the paint will become uneven. The final coat of metallic paint should be sprayed farther away from the surface to let the metallic flakes go on as evenly as possible. This distance will depend on your paint color, temperature, humidity, etc. so be sure to practice off the vehicle first! Spraying the Clearcoat Spray the clear over the paint. Do not spray the clearcoat in the sun. Do not spray a part that has been heated by the sun. Let it cool down first, as otherwise the clearcoat will dry with a dull finish. Let the clearcoat dry thoroughly.

If necessary, wet sand out any imperfections with 1200 grit, then apply a final coat of clear. Let the clearcoat dry for at least three days and then use our automotive rubbing compound to smooth and shine the area.

Spraying the Clearcoat-Technique You would typically spray the clearcoat farther out than the paint to a boundary line on your vehicle. Again, you don't want to spray the clearcoat in the middle of a panel without going out to the edges. as you will leave a noticeable clearcoat line.

Using the Rubbing Compound The application of Rubbing compound creates the deep gloss in the clearcoat so don't skip this step! Let the clearcoat dry for at least three days before using the rubbing compound. Do not use a heavy duty rubbing compound as it will dull the surface. Also, do not use polishing compound as this is not the same as rubbing compound. Use a medium duty rubbing compound.

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Use a clean, very soft cloth like an old tee shirt (for example DO NOT USE PAPER PRODUCTS as the wood fibers will scratch the paint!). Place a small quantity of rubbing compound on the vehicle and use circular strokes and apply even pressure to the vehicle. It's almost like waxing a vehicle except the rubbing compound is like fine liquid sandpaper. Buff with a clean cloth to a high gloss. (You may want to spray some paint and clearcoat on a smooth surface and practice to get the feel of it.) Sometimes a lot of pressure is required to make the clear shine. The rubbing compound can also be applied by machine, but careful, it's very easy to burn the paint! You can get the same results by hand, it will just take a bit longer.

Problems Poor or no shine: 1) You may have not applied enough clearcoat. If you have gone through the clearcoat, you will end up polishing the basecoat which will not shine! Solution-apply more clearcoat and compound the area again. 2) You are using polishing compound or heavy duty rubbing compound. The polishing compound will do nothing for the paint and the heavy duty compound will dull the finish. Solution-use a medium duty rubbing compound. You may have to apply more clearcoat. 3) You may have such a large area that trying to compound by hand is just too difficult. Solution-use a power buffer or hire a detail shop to compound the area. See the warning above about using a power buffer. 4) You have used paper cloth, have a dirty cloth, are using a terry cloth towel or a cloth with grit in it. Solution-use an old clean T-shirt. 5) You didn't apply any clearcoat! Don't laugh, but this has been a common problem. The basecoat will not shine no matter how much rubbing compound you apply. Solution-Apply clearcoat!

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6) You have a whitish haze or white streaks through the clear. This is caused by high humidity conditions. Solution-Wait until the humidity is under 50%. Scuff down the clearcoat, apply more color coat and reapply the clear. 7) You have spider veins through the paint. This is caused by either spraying the paint too far away or the temperature is too hot and the paint is drying before it hits the surface. Solution-Apply the paint closer to the surface and do not paint when the temperature is above 80 degrees. The rubbing compound is also good for removing oxidation from your finish. Let the paint dry for a 30 days and apply a good quality automotive wax.

Hazards and Safety-VERY IMPORTANT! PLEASE READ!! Automotive touch-up paint including primer and clearcoats are EXTREMELY hazardous. Keep away from children! Call a physician IMMEDIATELY if swallowed. Keep out of direct sunlight and heat over 120F. DO NOT STORE IN CAR and avoid freezing. Contains HAZARDOUS Waste. EPA requires proper disposal. Use with adequate ventilation. If you experience any dizziness, discontinue product use immediately and call physician. This product contains chemicals known to the state of California to cause birth defects, cancer and other health problems. The main thing here is to use the product with adequate ventilation. Use an approved automotive paint respirator and WEAR safety goggles when handling automotive paint to protect your eyes!! This includes the primer, paint and clearcoat.

Application First apply the basecoat. This is the main color coat. Make sure this has thoroughly dried for at least a few hours. Next, apply the midcoat layer.

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This bottle (or spray can) will have a check by the word Tricoat (or Midcoat) or a #2 on the label to identify it. This color goes on very thinly and you must practice a bit to get it right. Finally, you apply the clearcoat to achieve the correct color.

When spraying tricoats, apply the basecoat first. Spray the midcoat out even farther than the basecoat or you will create a paint layer line. The best was to spray tricoats is to spray the entire panel to the edge so there are no paint layer lines. Again, practice, practice, practice off the vehicle first before applying a tricoat to your vehicle!

Waxing Allow the paint to dry for 30 days before waxing.

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VIII. Tri-color instructions

Tri-coats Any color that has the word "Tri-coat" in the paint name listed on our site has three different coats of paint applied at the factory. The first is a basecoat of color. Next a second coat of transparent color, called the midcoat is applied and finally, a coat of clearcoat. The midcoat color is applied very thin and adds additional depth to the paint. In order to successfully match a tri-coat, you should practice on a scrap piece of metal or plastic.

Application First apply the basecoat. This is the main color coat. Make sure this has thoroughly dried for at least a few hours. Next, apply the midcoat layer. This bottle (or spray can) will have a check by the word Tricoat (or Midcoat) or a #2 on the label to identify it. This color goes on very thinly and you must practice a bit to get it right. Finally, you apply the clearcoat to achieve the correct color.a

When spraying tricoats, apply the basecoat first. Spray the midcoat out even farther than the basecoat or you will create a paint layer line. The best was to spray tricoats is to spray the entire panel to the edge so there are no paint layer lines. Again, practice, practice, practice off the vehicle first before applying a tricoat to your vehicle!

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Make sure to get the primer and basecoat sanded very smooth before applying the additional stages of paint. The primer should be wet sanded before applying the paint. Once the midcoat is applied over the basecoat, it becomes very difficult to smooth the basecoat paint. You can use #1200 grit sandpaper or rubbing compound to smooth the paint. Always let the basecoat dry thoroughly before applying the midcoat. Then, let the midcoat dry thoroughly before applying the clearcoat.

When you apply the basecoat and midcoat you follow the same directions given at "How to Apply" for each coat. The real trick is applying the midcoat over the basecoat to achieve the right color. It's like using a colored transparent piece of plastic (think Saran Wrap with colors) over the basecoat to change the color. Add too little, and the basecoat won't be changed enough; add too much, and you will change the basecoat too much and have to start over again. Make sure you PRACTICE OFF the vehicle to see how it turns out and keep comparing your practice work to the vehicle color. Midcoats are best sprayed, but if you use very thin coats, you can do a reasonable job.

Final Thoughts Applying midcoats is more difficult than a regular base-coat/clearcoat combination but with some practice you can achieve satisfactory results. Because these can be very tricky, you may want to consider having a professional apply this paint or leave the entire job to a collision shop. However, it is also a very expensive repair job in the shop so why not try it yourself first to see how it turns out!

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IX. Dent removal system

Paint less dent remover kit, like the ding king shown above works great for most dents up to a size of a grapefruit. However the system will not work on dents that are on an edge or bodyline or the dent is wrinkled. The kit can be found for around $20.00.

Glue gun

Pulling Bridge

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Wing Nut

Dent Pulling Tabs

Glue

Knockout tool

Optional: Goof Off

Optional: Mallet

Quickstep instructions 1.Pre-heat the hot glue gun for 5 minutes 2.While the glue gun is heating up, clean the damaged area with soap and water and dry thoroughly. 3.Apply glue to the dent pulling center tab. 4.Quickly apply dent pulling tab to the center or start point of the damage.

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5.Allow 5 minutes for the glue to cool. 6.Place the pulling bridge over the dent pulling tab. 7.Screw the special wing nut and simply twist till it pops the dent out. 8.Use either the twist a dent solution included in the kit or the goof off which is bought separate. This works really well saving time and frustration. 9.Repeat the steps 3 thru 8 until the desired perfection is achieved. Some dents may require up to 10 pulls to achieve desired results. 10.If the metal is pulled above existing surface use a rubber or wooden mallet. The ding king kit will also include a white or yellow plastic knock down tool to tap the metal back level.

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X. Frequently asked questions

1. Adhesion -> What causes improper adhesion?

a. Improper surface preparation, Painting over oil, grease or other contaminants. Improper curing schedule. Poor substrate integrity. Incompatibility of one coat to another or to substrate.

2. Air Brush -> Is there a difference using an air brush instead of a paint gun?

a. You will need to thin the material 2 or 3 parts thinner and 1 part paint when you use a air brush.

3. Blend Paint -> How do I blend paint? a. After you have repaired the area (body filler,

polyester putty, primed, etc.), you must clean the surrounding area with soap and water and a good scrubbing with a final wash solvent (mild, silicone free). I cannot stress the importance of this step enough. Wet/Dry with 600 lightly to clean up and remove any residual elements off the paint. Reduce the air pressure to the gun to around 35-45 psi (HLVP feed), and spray the repaired area. Wait for the coat to tack sufficiently, then apply successive coats until full coverage is achieved, slightly extending the coats each time to melt in any dry spray from the previous coat. On the last (blend) coat, reduce the paint in the gun (you may have to pour some out). Carefully blend out the dry areas.

4. Blistering -. What causes blistering? a. Improper thinning solvent or too fast evaporating.

Excessive film buildup trapped solvents, excessive temperature and insufficient flash off time.

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5. CFM -> What is CFM and what size compressor should I use?

a. If you are painting a whole car, you would need 20CFM at 90 PSI and a large holding tank. Small areas like general repairs will require a 25 gallon tank and 5 SCFM @ 90 PSI or 7.5 SCFM @ 40 PSI. This will allow you to keep the surface wet.

6. Clear Coats -> What is Clear Coat? a. Clear coat is the top coat of a paint that contains no

pigmentation or color. In a typical automotive paint surface, there is a primer coat which is what is sprayed on the metal or plastic body surface, a base coat, which contains the color and finally a clear coat. A clear coats purpose is to provide depth and gloss to the finish (known as DOI, or Distinction of Image in the industry) and to protect the base coat from the elements, including the harmful UV (Ultra-violet) rays of the sun. Clear coats became popular in the early 1990s and currently over 90% of new cars feature a clear coat as the top (exposed) surface. Clear coats require special consideration. Because they are clear, scratches and swirls tend to become more prominent since the clear characteristic causes such defects to be magnified. For this reason, avoiding scratches and swirls is critical if you want your clear coated surface to look good. Most detailing products available today are clear coat safe and are so labeled. This generally means that they are non abrasive or minimally abrasive.

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The best and easiest way to determine if you are dealing with a clear coat is to check the owners manual of the car. If that is not an option, apply a small amount of polish to a rag that is not the same color as the car and apply it to a not normally seen paint surface. If the color does not appear in the cloth surface, then you have a clear coat. The protection provided by a clear coat will not prevent oxidation but it does help the situation considerably. The clear coat itself can lose its oils which makes it vulnerable to oxidation, turning the surface dull. Although clear coats protective properties make modern paint jobs last longer, they still have to be maintained with oils (applied as part of a polish job) and a protective wax. Clear coat can disappear leaving the base coat exposed to the elements which is something that it was not designed for. If your clear coat is gone, a new paint job is required.

7. Crater -> What can cause a crater? a. Improper cleaning of surface. Oil, water or other

contaminant in spray lines. Silicone or other contaminant in working area atmosphere. Low film buildup. Overly wet application.

8. Dirt a. Improper cleaning of the surface. Defective air

regulator cleaning filter. Dirty working area. Defective or dirty air inlet filters in spray booth and/or ovens. Dirty spray equipment. Dirt in oven or paint. Insufficient agitation or paint–settling

9. Drips -> How do you fix drips? a. If you are in the middle of painting, do not try and

fix the drip. Wait until the paint is dry and sand it out. You have a 50-50 chance on saving the layer without needing to spray another coat.

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10. Fish Eyes a. How do you remove fisheyes or water spots that

end up in the paint due to the compressor? i. The area must be sanded and repainted.

b. What causes fish eyes? i. Fish eyes are caused by contamination usually

containing silicon. To prevent this you need a very clean surface and a clean air supply. Make sure you use a good inline filter for your air supply.

11. Flash Time -> What is flash time? a. Flash refers to the waiting period it takes the

solvent to evaporate from the paint before applying another coat. When using base coat, the paint will look like it lost its shine.

12. Flex Agent -> What is flex agent? a. This is an additive for painting surfaces that flex or

bend. This will eliminate cracking. 13. Orange Peel -> What causes orange peel?

a. Under reduced paint. Improper thinning solvent – too fast evaporating. Low film buildup. Improper air pressure. Lack of proper flow. Paint temperature too low. Substrate temperature too high

14. Paint Gun -> How do you properly adjust the paint gun?

a. Set your air pressure first. The gauge on the air compressor should read at least 60IB’s and the gun should read 45 to 55IB’s with the trigger pulled far enough to allow air and not fluid. Point the gun at a piece of cardboard and pull the trigger further to allow fluid. The pattern should be outward, with slightly more paint in the center than the edges.

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15. Pinholes -> What causes pinholes? a. Improper thinning solvent – too fast evaporating.

Excessive film buildup trapped solvents. Excessive temperature in first oven zone. Insufficient flash off time before baking. Gasses entrapped in the substrate during the manufacturing process are forced out through the coating when baked at high temperatures.

16. Sags and Runs a. Over reduced paint. Improper thinners – too slow

evaporating. Excessive film buildup. Paint temperature too high. Substrate temperature too low. Insufficient agitation of paint separation

17. Wrinkles -> What causes wrinkles? a. Excessive film buildup. Surface drying trapping

solvents. Fresh film subjected to heat too soon. Contamination in oven or paint

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XI. FORMS

1. Material List Check off list 2. Tool List Check off list 3. List of Web Links 4. Category 1,2,3,4 list check off list

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Paint & Scratch Repair Material List

Lacquer thinner (Automotive Grade) Body Filler (Standard for all cars) Filler Putty (Standard for all cars) Primer (Standard for all cars) Base coat Paint (Will vary on each car) Clear coat Paint (Standard for all cars) Flex agent for paint (for flexible surfaces) Soap/Detergent (Ivory soap) 3M rubbing compound Blue or Green Tape Roll of plastic Foam brushes Bucket/Cup Lint free cloth General purpose rags Paper towels 100 Grit 3m Wet/Dry sand paper 320 Grit 3m Wet/Dry sand paper 400 Grit 3m Wet/Dry sand paper 600 Grit 3m Wet/Dry sand paper 1200 Grit 3m Wet/Dry sand paper 2500 Grit 3m Wet/Dry sand paper

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Paint & Scratch Repair Tool List

Sanding Block Sanding Pad Orbital Sander (Optional) Air brush (Optional) Detail paint gun (Optional) HVLP Paint gun (Recommended) Paint mixing jar Air mask Goggles Air compressor and hose Air Filter 10 Micron Filter or better Air Nozzle for blowing air Rubber gloves Plastic Container for all the tools Bucket Hose and Nozzle Scotch pad Wash mitt Chamois for drying Razor knife Bondo card High speed buffer and pad Shop towels Disposable Waste Container

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Web Links

Auto Body Store www.autobodystore.com Description: Supplies, tips and tricks.

eBay Auctions www.ebay.com Description:

Tools and supplies.

Harbor Freight www.harborfreight.com Description:

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Northern Tools www.northerntool.com Description:

NorthernTool.com product lines include generators, small engines, pressure washers, hand, air and power tools, hydraulics, pumps, trailer parts, corn stoves and other seasonal equipment, and more!

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Web Links Paint Scratch www.paintscratch.com

Description: Touch Up Paint for your automobile. Over 6,000 touch-up paint colors listed. Order on-line in spray cans or touch up bottles

See2learn www.see2learn.com/paint Description: Update list of paint links and information

Sears www.sears.com

Description: Full line of tools

Tri-City Paint www.tricitypaint.com

Description: Welcome to AutoBodyDepot.net - the family of sites dedicated to Auto Body repair professionals and custom painters everywhere. Here you will find the most comprehensive array of products from PPG, House of Kolor, 3M, Meguiar's and many more. AutoColorLibrary.com allows you to view the paint manufacturer's original color chip cards for vehicles both domestic and foreign, from the 1920's to the current model year. In addition to OEM colors, we offer our exclusive color-shifting line, Rev-illusion. SprayGunDepot.com presents in one convenient location, detailed information including parts breakdowns and more on the most popular guns from DeVilbiss, Binks, SATA, Iwata, Sharpe and AccuSpray. Explore, learn and save BIG on on the products you use everyday!

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Category 1 check off list Vehicle Make __________________________ Model __________________________ Year __________________________ Color __________________________ Color Code __________________________ VIN Number: __________________________ Repair Location: __________________________ Size of the repair: _____ ft/inches x _____ ft/inches = _____ Square feet Category 1 will require heavy sanding to expose the metal surface. You will also need to use a dent puller or paint less dent puller to straighten out the dent. The goal is to use as little body filler as possible. Several thin coats of body filler will be necessary to build up and smooth the surface. Several coats of primer will follow to fill in grooves and allow the base paint to adhere to the surface. Once the surface is completely ready, base paint is then applied followed by clear coat.

Order paint Estimated Delivery date: ____/______/_______

Day 1

Estimated Start date: ____/______/_______ Straighten the dent with a dent puller

Repair the hole if using a standard dent puller Wash and Prep

Wet sand 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper Rough up the metal and remove any rust Wash thoroughly Dry thoroughly

Body Filler Apply several layers of body filler (Wait Several hours)

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Wet sand with 320/400 wet dry sandpaper Wash thoroughly Dry thoroughly Check area and apply more body filler if necessary

Primer Wipe with lint free cloth Apply primer on filler and bare metal Let dry for 3-4 hours and preferably 24 hours Day 2

Base Paint Wet sand with 600 wet/dry sand paper Wash thoroughly Dry thoroughly Wipe with lint free cloth Apply base paint Let base paint dry 24 hours Day 3

Clear Coat Wet sand with 600 wet/dry sandpaper Wash thoroughly Dry thoroughly Wipe with lint free cloth Apply clear coat Let dry for 3-4 days

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Day 7 (actual 4th day)

Color sand / Compound Wet sand with 1200 grit (Lightly) Wet sand with 2500 grit (Till sand paper starts to glide) Wash thoroughly Dry thoroughly Machine/Hand rub out the area with fine polish compound Wash entire vehicle Dry thoroughly Today’s Date: ____ /____ /____ Add 30 days to the date and write below Day 34 (actual 5th day) Date for wax: ____ /____ /____

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Category 2 check off list Vehicle Make __________________________ Model __________________________ Year __________________________ Color __________________________ Color Code __________________________ VIN Number: __________________________ Repair Location: __________________________ Size of the repair: _____ ft/inches x _____ ft/inches = _____ Square feet Category 2 will require minor sanding with 600 to rough up the edges and feather out the repair area. Several thin layers of filler putty will be applied to level and smooth out the surface. Once the surface is smooth, several coats of primer can be applied to allow for the base paint to adhere to the surface and also allow for any sanding grooves to be filled in. Once the surface is primed, you will sand with 600 grit sandpaper till smooth but not removing or sanding through the primer. Once this is accomplished, the base paint can be applied.


Day 1

Estimated Start date: ____/______/_______ Wash and Prep

Wet sand 320 grit wet/dry Rough up the metal and remove any rust Wash thoroughly Dry thoroughly

Body Filler Apply several layers of body filler

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Wet sand with 320 and/or 400 wet/dry sandpaper Wash thoroughly Dry thoroughly Check area and apply more body filler if necessary

Primer Wipe with lint free cloth Apply primer on filler and bare metal Let dry for 3-4 hours and preferably 24 hours Day 2

Base Paint Wet sand with 600 wet/dry sandpaper Wash thoroughly Dry thoroughly Wipe with lint free cloth Apply base paint Let base paint dry 24 hours Day 3

Clear Coat Wet sand with 600 wet/dry sandpaper Wash thoroughly Dry thoroughly Wipe with lint free cloth Apply clear coat Let dry for 3-4 days

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Day 7 (actual 4th day)


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Category 3 check off list

Vehicle Make __________________________ Model __________________________ Year __________________________ Color __________________________ Color Code __________________________ VIN Number: __________________________ Repair Location: __________________________ Size of the repair: _____ ft/inches x _____ ft/inches = _____ Square feet Category 3 will require minor sanding with 600 to rough up the edges and feather out the repair area. If you prefer not to use filler putty, primer can be used to fill in the scratch. Three to four coats will usually be required for filling in minor scratches. Once the surface is built up and smooth, the base coat can now be applied.


Day 1


Wet sand 600 grit wet/dry feather out scratch Wash thoroughly Dry thoroughly

Primer Apply filler if needed else apply primer If primer used – let dry for 25 to 30 minutes Wet sand with 600 wet/dry sandpaper Wash/Dry and wipe with lint free cloth Apply primer on filler and bare metal Let dry for 3-4 hours and preferably 24 hours

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Day 2

Base Paint Wet sand with 600 wet/dry sand paper Wash thoroughly Dry thoroughly Wipe with lint free cloth Apply base paint Let base paint dry 24 hours Day 3

Clear Coat Wet sand with 600 wet/dry sand paper Wash thoroughly Dry thoroughly Wipe with lint free cloth Apply clear coat Let dry for 3-4 days Day 7 (actual 4th day)


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Category 4 check off list Vehicle Make __________________________ Model __________________________ Year __________________________ Color __________________________ Color Code __________________________ VIN Number: __________________________ Repair Location: __________________________ Size of the repair: _____ ft/inches x _____ ft/inches = _____ Square feet Category 4 will require mild sanding with 600 grit and several coats of base coat to fill in the minor scratch. Once the surface is smooth a final base coat shall be applied.


Day 1


Wet sand 600 grit wet/dry feather out the scratch Wash thoroughly Dry thoroughly

Primer Wipe with lint free cloth Apply primer on filler and bare metal Let dry for 3-4 hours and preferably 24 hours

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Day 2

Base Paint Wet sand with 600 wet/dry sandpaper Wash thoroughly Dry thoroughly Wipe with lint free cloth

Apply base paint Let base paint dry 24 hours Day 3

Clear Coat Wet sand with 600 wet/dry sandpaper Wash thoroughly Dry thoroughly Wipe with lint free cloth Apply clear coat Let dry for 3-4 days Day 7 (actual 4th day)


scratch and paint repair

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