Safety Considerations in the Family Studies Classroom

Revised in Summer 2006

FASHION

Revised and Updated byLisa Efstatheu

Reviewed bySuzanne Robertson

Sue Dalton

Edited and Managed byMichelyn Putignano

Figure 1: Sewing Safety 1O1

Safety Considerations in the Family Studies Classroom

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FASHION LABS

Table of Contents

Page Title Page…………………………………………………………. 1

Health & Safety Considerations in the Fashion Lab……………… 4

Setting Up and Maintaining Safe Fashion Lab Facilities…………. 4Keep it CleanStorageStudent Sewing Supply BoxesFloorsFitting AreaHanging AreaElectricityEfficient Work AreaVentilationCutting Surface SizeMirrorsLighting and Fields of View

Equipment and Operating Practices………………………………. 6GeneralEquipmentSewing MachineIronSergerPersonal Protective Equipment

Teaching and Assessment Tools…………………………………. 9Getting Ready to Sew – Diagnostic TestGetting Ready to Sew – Answer KeyLab Safety Word SearchLab Safety Word Search – Answer KeyEstablishing Classroom Safety Rules – Fill in the BlankEstablishing Classroom Safety Rules – Answer KeyWord Wizard of Sewing EquipmentWord Wizard of Sewing Equipment – Answer KeyIroning and PressingIroning and Pressing – Answer KeySeam Allowances and Seam FinishesSeam Finishes - RubricThe Basic Sewing KitSewing Machine Parts and FunctionsSewing Machine Parts and Functions – Answer KeySafety Poster AssignmentSafety Poster Evaluation RubricReading A Sewing PatternSymbol Syntax

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Symbol Syntax – Answer KeyLetter to FamiliesFashion Safety AgreementTeacher Observation Facility Safety ChecklistPersonal Safety Habit EvaluationSafety Inspection ReportTeacher Observation Safety Report Form

Fashion Lab Safety Posters ……………………………………… 45 Serger Safety RulesSewing Machine Safety RulesThe Use of Sewing EquipmentFashion Lab Safety

Certificate of Achievement (Students)…………………………… 49

References…………………………………………………………. 50

Appendices………………………………………………………. 53Appendix A: Sewing Machine BasicsAppendix B: Serger Machine BasicsAppendix C: Basic EquipmentAppendix D: Sewing ToolsAppendix E: Choosing and Using Cutting Tools Appendix F: Machine Spacing Appendix G: Room Design and LayoutAppendix H: Key Planning PrinciplesAppendix I: Room to Sew PDF FileAppendix J: Choosing and Using Cutting Tools PDF File

Web sites and Resource List……………………………………... 66Audiovisual AidsCommunity and Professional (Safety) Contacts and ResourcesEquipment and SuppliesGames (on-line)JournalsPostersProject IdeasSongsTeaching KitsTexts

HEALTH AND SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS IN THE FASHION LAB

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Currently, there are no pre-requisites for The Fashion Industry, Grade 12, Open (HNB40) or Fashion and Creative Expression, Grade 11, Open (HNC30). While some students enrolled in this course may have taken the Grade 11 course, Fashion and Creative Expression, many others may not have received the necessary training to work in a safe manner in the sewing classroom. And, in the Grade 9 course, Individual and Family Living (HIF1O/2O), there are many students who participate in sewing construction projects with little to no sewing experience from their elementary feeder schools.

There are no learning expectations that refer to health and safety in the Family Studies classroom described for these courses in The Ontario Curricula: Social Sciences and Humanities, Grade 9 and 10; Grades 11 and 12 (OMET, 199; 2000). However, health and safety in Family Studies courses is essential to a successful program and is implied to a greater extent throughout this document. As the following citation supports:

In Family Studies courses, teachers must take particular care to ensure that healthand safety requirements are met and safety procedures followed when students areinvolved in practical activities. Students must be made aware of any health or safetyhazards that might be connected with the activities in which they are engaged andmust be coached in the proper use of safety equipment, such as fire extinguishers(OMET, 2000, p 141).

SETTING UP and MAINTAINING SAFE LAB FACILITIES

Operating sewing machines and sergers tends to be repetitive work subject to fatigue and eyestrain. The teaching areas should allow effective supervision and safety considerations with an unimpeded view of all the room and equipment. The working areas for each student should allow for adequate space, light and ventilation. Ensuring that each student has an organized and ergonomically correct area will aid in setup. See Appendix F, G, and H, p 63-65 for additional insight regarding possible room design, layout and planning principles for new construction. Further information is available from the Canadian Centre for Occupational Health and Safety (May, 2002), in the handbook, School Workers Health and Safety Guide (2nd ed), Sections X - Work environment, Section XI - Ergonomics, and Section XII - Personal protective equipment.

From LifeTips (2006), the following suggestions are given in consideration of sewing lab organization, design and layout:

Keep it Clean /StorageYour students will be more productive in the fashion lab when things are organized and clean. Students should be encouraged to clean up their work space and sewing areas at the end of each fashion lab class. Sweeping the floors, wiping off work surfaces to pick up lint, thread clippings and fibers from their construction work should be a shared responsibility of all students working in the fashion lab.

Storage

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Plastic floss boxes work great for storing buttons, snaps, closures, hooks and eyes. There are several rows of small compartments for separating and storing tiny accessories and notions. Patterns accumulated from several years of teaching fashion courses can become unwieldy if not stored with some care. A filing cabinet or cardboard file box provides ideal pattern storage. If your pattern collection is large, sort the patterns by style (hand puppets, aprons, leisure pants, boxer shorts, etc) or by size. Be sure to clearly label the outside of the boxes. Sewing machine needles should be kept in a separate storage boxes. Many fashion labs have more than one brand of sewing machine and they may require specific needles. Plastic business card holders, from any office supply store, will hold about fifteen boxes of needles. Needles should be stored in a place where students have access but should be contained and locked after each lab. Small baskets are suitable for storing sewing tools and gadgets. Wire or mash baskets are better than wicker because they are easier to clean. Again, many sharp objects are often included as sewing tools, and should be located in a student accessible space that can be locked up after each lab. Scissors and sewing shears, as well, need to be accessible, but in a safe place. A purchased scissor block (similar to a kitchen knife block) from a sewing specialty store works well. Other storage solutions are drawer or hanging on a hook. Mark your scissors “for fabric only”, as they will dull if used with paper, and dull scissors contribute to more cutting accidents than sharpened pairs. Thread gets brittle and breaks when it gets old. Storing thread in airtight containers, such as Ziploc bags, will keep it from drying out as quickly. Thread exposure to sunlight and heat will also accelerate break down. Machine manuals and instruction booklets could be stored near each machine, ideally, in a storage compartment in each sewing cabinet.

Student Sewing Supply BoxesClear stackable boxes are great for students to store their sewing supplies. Clear shoe boxes are great for notions. Larger boxes are great for projects; keeping fabric, pattern, and notions stored together. An economical option is to use the covered cardboard boxes that originally hold staff copying paper and re-cycle them for student sewing storage. Covered boxes are ideal because they stack well to save space and they keep the dust out. FloorsConsider the pros and cons of different flooring: care, wear and tear, comfort, and noise level. Carpeting is comfortable and quiet, however, pins are easily lost in carpeting and threads are hard to pick up. If your lab facility is currently carpeted, you may want to consider having it removed for practicality and safety issues. Hard surfaced floors are easier safer, easier to clean but are usually noisier and scratch easier.

Fitting AreaA good fitting area will be located in front of a full length mirror. The floor surface should be hard and even for measuring hem heights. The area needs to be large enough for a person to work on all sides of the person being fit. Ideally, there should be some privacy space incorporated into the general fitting area for changing.

Hanging AreaWhether you use a bar or hooks, hanging space should clear at least 70 inches off the floor, so full length garments can hang freely. Construction project exemplars, or student “works in progress,” need a place to hang unencumbered and, ideally, in a place that you can lock up for security.

Electricity

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Keep in mind where electrical outlets are located when arranging sewing spaces. Extension cords can be dangerous; there use should be limited in the lab. Power strips with surge protectors and circuit breakers are recommended, especially for irons and machines. Power cords must not create a tripping hazard and ideally with the design of new schools a circuit breaker located in the sewing lab would best serve a teacher dealing with an emergency situation. Power equipment especially computerized machines should be attached to an outlet with a surge control.

Efficient Work AreaThe design layout of student work areas should emphasize efficiency and safety. Consider the three primary functions performed in fashion labs: cutting, sewing and pressing. It is important to be able to move quickly, freely and safely between these areas. Keep this “work triangle” in mind when designing you sewing area.

VentilationFabrics are often treated with chemicals for shipping and storage. Dry-cleaned material and garments release chemical fumes. Working with fabric produces large amounts of dust and lint. To reduce fatigue and increase air quality, make sure that the lab is well ventilated with fresh air.

Cutting Surface SizeCutting surfaces or tables should be at least 30 inches wide and 60 inches long. The cutting surfaces should also be accessible from both sides, for the adequate care and safety of both left and right-handed cutters.

MirrorsFull length mirrors need to be large enough to see the whole person being viewed, from top of the head to the floor. Test mirror placement with students of different heights before affixing a permanent location in the fitting area. Three-way mirrors and free-standing mirrors that can be moved to different angles are great but will require additional care in storage and handling.

Lighting and Fields of ViewThe teacher must have an unobstructed view of the equipment and students at all times. It is essential that students maintain clear, well-luminated fields of view. Equipment must be maintained in safe operating order and conditions inspected regularly, including properly functioning lighting. Adequate lighting should include a combination of general lighting in the lab and specific task lighting at each machine.

EQUIPMENT AND OPERATING PRACTICESGeneralTeachers must ensure the recommendations of the Ontario Association of School Boards Officials’ Health and Safety Committee related to sewing machine are enforced with students, which include but are not limited to the following recommendations:

● manufacturer’s instructions for operation and maintenance adhered ● review and discuss potential hazards associated with the machines● ensure that specific instruction is given pertaining to potentially hazardous situations, and documented

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Students must be instructed on the safe methods of using and handling all equipment in the classroom. They should be informed of any potentially hazardous uses for that particular item. Manufacturers’ instructions, which are contained in manuals and/or presented in video form, should be presented and strictly followed. Complete understanding of safety rules and instructions should be demonstrated prior to being given teacher permission for machine and equipment operations.

Equipment will vary in each location; therefore the following list will cover basic items found in most fashion classrooms. The following sewing safety guidelines are given in Clothing Fashion. Fabrics, Construction (Weber, 1990, p 356) in the section entitled “Sewing Handbook:”

Equipment Keep pins in a pincushion, never in mouth or clothes. Keep shears and scissors closed when not using. Pass sharp objects; handle first, to another person. Carry all sharp and pointed tools or objects with the sharp end in a downward position. Keep tools and supplies in your sewing box, or designated storage cupboard, when not in use. Remove all rings, watches and jewelry where conditions are warranted. Consider where other people are, especially when cutting or ironing. Inspect tools for safe operation before usage and report any damaged or worn tools that are

unsafe. Enforce usage of all tools and equipment as their designed purpose

Sewing Machine Keep the sewing machine cord out of people’s way. Use a slow speed when learning how to use the machine. Maintain control - DO NOT speed! Always keep tools, fingers, clothing and hair away from the needle. Do not lean your face too close when stitching in case the needle breaks. Remove pins before sewing over them. Unplug the cord from the outlet first, and then disconnect cord from the machine when not in

use. Close the sewing machine carefully or replace its cover when you are finished sewing. Task lights and power should be turned off when not in use.

Iron Don’t touch a hot iron except on the handle. Keep your fingers and face away from the steam. When ironing or pressing, balance weight equally on both feet. Locate the iron cord so that the iron will not be accidentally pulled off the ironing board. Rest the iron on its heel when not in use. Unplug the iron when finished. Empty water when not in use. Let the iron cool and then store

properly.

Serger Commercial manufacturers provide safety instructions for use with their equipment. The following are general precautions when using sergers. Exercise caution with regard to the up and down movement of the needle and constantly

observe the sewing area during work.

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Do not place objects in openings on the machine. Never operate machine on a soft surface (i.e. bed, sofa) where air openings may be blocked. Do not use out of doors. Keep fingers away from moving parts. Special care required near sewing machine needle. Always use the proper needle plate. Do not use bent or blunt needles. Only use needles recommended by the manufacturer. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle, causing it to break. Remove pins as you sew. Do not sew over pins. Switch the machine off when making adjustments to the machine such as threading, changing

the needle etc.

Personal Protective Equipment Snugly fit latex-free gloves may be worn if a student is sensitive to fabric fibers or has an open

cut that is irritated by direct contact with fabric fibers. Properly fitted clothing must be worn; loose clothing is more likely to catch on moving parts. Long hair should be tied up to maintain clear fields of view. Feet should be adequately protected; no open-toed shoes allowed in fashion labs. Protective eyewear should be encouraged and made available for student use, but teachers

should consult specific school board for individual policies regarding eyewear protection.

TEACHING AND ASSESSMENT TOOLS

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The following activities have been prepared for classroom use as assessment tools, worksheets and informational posters suitable for photocopy to introduce student expectations for safe handling and usage of sewing machines and equipment.

With regards to health and safety instruction, it is recommended in this document that: Students complete a diagnostic test before practical sewing tasks are assigned. * Students are taught to plan and organize their work area and equipment with conscious

planning towards a safe workspace. * A letter is sent home to Parents/Guardians providing information as to the responsibility of

students to prevent accidents. * Students are trained and tested in the safe operation of the equipment used in the fashion

lab. Sign a safety contract, which is kept on file by the teacher.* Once the instructional activities are completed, students are evaluated to assess individual

levels of competency in operation of the equipment to be used in the fashion lab and the safety procedures be followed in the fashion class. *

* Student worksheets (and ANSWER KEYS, where applicable) are included in this package.

Additional handouts to assist you in sewing machine operation safety and equipment safety are attached at the end of this document, in Appendices A, B, C, D, E; and in Appendices I and J, which are separate PDF files, available on the OFSLC Website.

The following website(s) may also be used with students with computer and internet access to extend the reach of learning about safety considerations in the fashion labs:

Tools and Equipment On-line Quiz for students at http://www.learners.org.uk/ssf/intro.htmThe Sewing Machine On-line Quiz for students at http://www.learners.org.uk/ssf/intro.htmThe New Interactive Sewing Room at http://www.sew.husqvarna.se/flash_check_syrum/syrum.htm

It is advisable that in each course that involves sewing components, you break down the tasks from simpler to more complex skills. This allows students to progressively gain confidence and adept safety practices with each tool or equipment. For example, in the grade 9 course, HIF 1O/2O, begin with a hand-sewing project, basic clothing mending, and then complete a sewing project that provides beginner, intermediate and advanced level sewing on the sewing machine. Before students actually begin garment construction, they could practice “sewing” simple paper mazes with an un-thread machine (and an old needle because sewing on the paper dulls the needles!). Students could also be introduced to proper iron care and handling through an iron-on-transfer project before iron usage in pressing during a sewing construction project. Similarly, in the grade 11 fashion, HNC3O, have students create a recycled garment, participate in repetitive skill building projects like cutting several baby blankets or quilting squares with a rotary cutter, and build up to a complete sewing construction project. In grade 12, HNB4O, have students create different weaves from paper strips, create smaller sized projects, like pajamas for triage babies (must meet industry standards), and then produce a line of quality garment pieces from beginner to more advanced sewing skill levels. See “Project Ideas” in Resource List section of this document (p 66- 68).

GETTING READY TO SEWDiagnostic Test

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This test is for diagnostic purposes only. The teacher will review your answers to determine at what level to start the safety instruction for the course. Don’t worry if you don’t know the answers to some of the questions. We will cover the information in the next few days in class.

Answer all questions on the paper.

True or False – Read the statement carefully. If the statement is true write T on the blank. If the statement is false write F on the blank.

_______1. It is recommended that you turn the power and light switch on before changing needles, presserfeet and needle plates.

_______2. To run the machine, press the foot control pedal. The harder you press, the faster the machinewill go.

_______3. The thread and needle you choose will depend upon the fabric being stitched.

_______4. Test the stitching on a fabric scrap to make sure the tension is correct.

_______5. Straight pins can be safely stored on the bed of your machine for easy access and use.

_______6. Keep your machine in good working order and wash with a little clean soapy water to removedust and lint.

_______7. When sewing or serging you should not pull or push the fabric through the machine.

_______8. Lean your face fairly close to the stitching to carefully follow the stitching lines.

_______9. Unplug the electrical cord from the wall outlet before disconnecting the cord from the machine when not in use.

_______10. As you sew, remove straight pins before stitching over the area.

_______11. Don’t touch an iron except on the soleplate with a wet finger to test for heat.

_______12. Rest the iron flat on its soleplate when not in use.

_______13. Protective eyewear in the fashion lab is available but not mandatory.

_______14. If you do not have a large enough table for cutting, then it is best to cut on the floor where the fabric can lay flat.

_______15. It’s safe to iron or press over pins, zippers, and other metal objects.

Complete the following statements that best show your knowledge of health and safety in the fashion lab.

16. Safely store sharp objects, like shears, tracing wheels, or seam rippers in ____________________

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_____________________________________________________________________________.

17. Occasionally when material is being sewn, why might “bunching” occur? ____________________

______________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

18. If the sewing machine isn’t working properly, what steps should you follow? _________________

_____________________________________________________________________________.

19. What should you do if the needle breaks? _____________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________.

20. Causes for machine needle breakage include the following:

a) _________________________________

b) _________________________________

c) _________________________________.

ANSWER KEY

GETTING READY TO SEWDiagnostic Test - True/False

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1. F – Turn the power and light switch OFF.

2. T

3. T

4. T

5. F – Keep all pins/needles in the pincushion when not in use.

6. F – Follow care and maintenance recommendations in your machine manual. Oil the sewing machine or serger regularly. Use a soft, dry brush to remove lint from needle and feed dog or knife areas. (Soft bristle artist brushes work well too) NO SOAPY WATER

7. T

8. F – Keeping too close of proximity to the needle is poor sewing posture and increases your chances of facial injuries from a broken needle or pin; Keep head upright, and use extra task lighting on the machine to ensure clear line of vision.

9. T

10. T

11. F – Never touch the soleplate of the iron when in use. Test the iron temperature and steam setting controls on an inconspicuous area of your material or sizeable fabric scrap.

12. F – When not in use, the iron should be resting upright on its heel (base) end.

13. T

14. T

15. F – Avoid ironing over metal objects that will scratch the bottom. Clean the soleplate if it should become dirty (when completely cooled) with a soft cloth and commercial cleaner.

16. Sharp objects should be stored in your sewing kit container, if they are your own, or in the designated space in the fashion lab.

17. “Bunching” may occur if your needle tip is bent or blunt, you may have an incorrect threadtension, or you may have to check the pressure regulator.

18. If the machine isn’t working properly, turn off your light switch and put up your hand for the teacher to assist you in trouble shooting. Always check first that the machine is in gear and is plugged into an electrical outlet. (Refer to chart below for additional suggestions)

19. If the needle breaks, turn the power and light switch off. Then unplug your machine and signal the teacher to assist you with removing and replacing a needle properly.

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20. a) the needle may not be the right size or is inserted incorrectlyb) the presser foot may require tighteningc) you may be pulling on the fabric as you sew or forgetting to remove pins before stitching

Problem Possible Solutions

Needle comes unthreaded when beginning a row of stitching.

Be sure the take-up lever is at the highest point when beginning to stitch.

Thread knots up on the underside of the fabric when you begin to stitch.

Hold thread ends under and to the back of the presser foot when beginning to stitch.

The bottom thread lies along the surface of the fabric. The stitches are not balanced.

Tighten the top tension.

The upper thread lies along the surface of the fabric. The stitches are not balanced.

Loosen the top tension.

Stitches become buried into the fabric. Check stitch length on a fabric scrap before sewing on a garment. Stitch length will need to be adjusted form fabric to fabric. The thicker the fabric, the longer the stitch length will need to be set.

The sewing machine jams and makes a knocking noise or you see thread caught in the shuttle.

Remove the bobbin case and clean out any threads.

Machine is skipping stitches.

(Knit fabrics may cause the machine to skip because of the stretch and density of the fabric; many knit fabrics also have a chemical residue that leaves a sticky coating on the needle preventing it from penetrating the fabric properly)

Check to see if the needle is inserted correctly.Make sure the needle is the right size for the fabric.If sewing on knit fabrics:▪ use a ballpoint needle▪ use a straight stitch throat plate to prevent fabric stretch▪ set pressure regulator at normal to heavy to secure fabric▪ pre-wash knits to remove any chemical residue▪ balance machine tension

Fabric does not move. Be sure the feed dogs are up.Be sure the presser foot is down.Increase the pressure on the presser foot.Check to see if thread is knotted under the fabric.

The upper thread breaks. Make sure the machine is properly threaded.Loosen the upper tension.

The lower thread breaks Make sure the bobbin is threaded and inserted properly.Check to see if thread is caught in the shuttle.

Figure 2: Problem-Trouble Shooting Chart (Adapted from Westfall, 2002)

Lab Safety Word Search

Carefully, circle each letter or highlight the safety phrases below. (Some are “extras”). Use the remaining letters in the grid to answer the safety question below:

L B Y K E E P F I N G E S C T

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A R L R S A W A Y F R T L I EU U E O M T H E P A E E D O RN S F T H O F T H A A Y I E UA H A S E W I N D N W L S A TM A S G M A C Y S O S N S H SR W K I N E S O R P I K N E OU A R E D P L K A P F L E V PO Y O U E E S R E O G J I S DY L W E P P I V R D W T E F OE I D L A N O H V S B H G M OS N A C G M E T K W I P B L GU T E L E L A T W W I E U Q IE S Y R P K S A T N O Y A T SU V S A F E T Y G O G G L E S

ASKFORHELP SAFETYGOGGLESSTAYONTASK STEADYSPEEDTIDYWORKSPACES USEYOURMANUALWORKSAFELY BRUSHAWAYLINTCLEANSOLEPLATE GOODPOSTUREOILSPARINGLY REMOVEPINS

Can you find the hidden safety rule?

__ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __

__ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __

__ __ __ __ __ __ !!!

"Safety First" is "Safety Always."  ~Charles M. Hayes

ANSWER KEY

Lab Safety Word Search – (Solutions)

L B Y K E E P F I N G E S C TA R L R S A W A Y F R T L I E

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U U E O M T H E P A E E D O RN S F T H O F T H A A Y I E UA H A S E W I N D N W L S A TM A S G M A C Y S O S N S H SR W K I N E S O R P I K N E OU A R E D P L K A P F L E + PO Y O + E E S R E O + + + + DY L W E P P I V R + + + + + OE I D L A N O H + + + + + + OS N A C G M E + + + + + + + GU T E L E L + + + + + + + + +E S Y R P K S A T N O Y A T S + + S A F E T Y G O G G L E S

(Over,Down,Direction)

ASKFORHELP(14,5,SW) SAFETYGOGGLES(3,15,E)STAYONTASK(15,14,W) STEADYSPEED(13,1,SE)TIDYWORKSPACES (15,1,SW) USEYOURMANUAL(1,13,N)WORKSAFELY(3,10,N) BRUSHAWAYLINT(2,1,S)CLEANSOLEPLATE (14,1,SW) GOODPOSTURE(15,11,N)OILSPARINGLY(14,3,SW) REMOVEPINS(14,4,NE)

Keep fingers away from thepath of the sewing machineneedle !!!

ESTABLISHING CLASSROOM SAFETY RULESFILL IN THE BLANKS

Choose terms or phrases from the box below and write each correct response in the blank beside the corresponding statement about fashion lab safety.

pin cushion knot break pulled off

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possible tripping hazard trained heel work space

hazardous situations followed safety rules plugged in

with a cover safe operation needles or presser foot

1. All students are trained to be familiar with ________________________________ before

using fashion lab equipment.

2. Sewing machines should not be left unattended when ________________________________.

3. Locate the iron cord so that the iron will not be accidentally ___________________ the

ironing board.

4. Turn off the power and light switch before changing _________________________________.

5. Constantly be alert to potentially ________________________________________________.

6. Rest the iron on its ____________ when not in use.

7. Keep straight pins in a _________________________________, never in mouth or clothes.

8. Store scissors closed and stitch rippers _____________________in a designated storage space.

9. Avoid using extension cords in the fashion lab as they create a _________________________.

10. You may only use a sewing machine after you have been ______________________________

in the safe and correct operation.

11. Students should be aware of where all _____________________ are posted in the classroom

and ensure that they are ________________ at all times.

12. If fabric bunching occurs when sewing, there may be a ______________________of thread

built up. This could cause the needle to ________________________.

13. Keep your ______________________ neat and tidy.

ANSWER KEY

ESTABLISHING CLASSROOM SAFETY RULESFILL IN THE BLANKS

1. safe operating 7. pin cushion

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2. sewing 8. with a cover3. pulled off 9. possible tripping hazard4. needles or presser foot 10. trained5. hazardous situations 11. safety rules; practiced6. heel 12. knot; break

13. work space

Word Wizard of Sewing Equipment

S B W M E S I G T Z D M Z D L IRON H N A W R U E H S G C Y C E W PINCUSHIONT S C O O P I A X M C L E E H PRESSINGCLOTHO E E B Z M I Z M C A H B O F SEAMGAUGEL A E H B V A K Z R W A O L G SEAMRIPPERC M H L S J N S E G I Z W E L SHEARSG G E P Z D D C N V U P S C C THIMBLE

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N A N B N N M I V K N O P N O TRACINGWHEELI U W P I N C U S H I O N E KS G H S R A E H S J K H R Q RS E T I R R H Q P G Q T X I PE A F T T S C G D D I L G W ZR Y N H K Z U H C Y Z U Q F RP M M O J O A T M F C L B Z OB M I F I J U W T B Y W M Y E

Find the sewing equipment listed in the word search above. Use the space below to explain how you use each piece in a safe manner when sewing.

IRON ______________________________________________________________________

PIN CUSHION _______________________________________________________________

PRESSING CLOTH ____________________________________________________________

SEAM GAUGE ________________________________________________________________

SEAMRIPPER ________________________________________________________________

SHEARS ____________________________________________________________________

THIMBLE ___________________________________________________________________

TRACINGWHEEL ______________________________________________________________

Figure 3 Figure 4 Figure.5 Figure 6 Figure 7 Figure 8

Better a thousand times careful than once dead.  ~ Proverb

Word Wizard of Sewing Equipment Solution ANSWER KEY

+ + + + + S + + T + + + + + L H + + + + + E H + + + + + E + T S + + + + I A + + + + E + + O E + + + M + + M + + H + + + L A + + B + + + + R W + + + + C M + L + + + + + G I + + + +

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G G E + + + + + N + + P + + + N A + + + + + I + + N + P + + I U + P I N C U S H I O N E + S G + S R A E H S + + + R + R S E + + R + + + + + + + + I + E + + T + + + + + + + + + + + R + + + + + + + + + + + + + + P + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

(Over,Down,Direction) * Safe use and Handling Responses May Vary

IRON(14,11,NW) – Pressing requires an up and down motion. Use light pressure with steam or damp press cloth. Rest on heel when not in use.Do not press over metal objects as this may scratch soleplate.Keep soleplate clean. Empty water before storing – store cool. Ironing requires a back and forth motion and can cause fabric to stretch so it should NOT be used during sewing construction.

PINCUSHION(4,9,E) - Place to store pins, needles. Never store pins in your mouth or clothing. Emery bags, often attached, are used to sharpen your pins. Dull pins cause more injuries

PRESSINGCLOTH(1,14,N)-Dampen with water to create steam for pressing. UseBetween fabric and iron (cheesecloth is recommended). Prevents shine or iron marks on fabric.

SEAMGAUGE(2,3,S)- Ruler with adjustable marker – use for measuring seamallowances and hems. It is a sharp metal object, so must be handled and stored with care.

SEAMRIPPER(6,1,SE) - Small, sharp, metal, pointy tool used for ripping outstitching. Store with cover on in designated space.

SHEARS(9,10,W) - Used to cut fabric, never paper! Handles are differentsizes to fit your hand. Be sure to use shears that arethe right size for you. Scissors have shorter blades with matching hand holes. They’re used more for trimming seams, clipping curves or opening up button holes. Pinking shears make zigzag-shaped cuts to finish a raw edge. All shears and scissors must be passed by holding the handles, pointy side pointing down.

THIMBLE(9,1,SW) - Helps protect the middle finger while hand sewing. Select a size that gives you a snug fit. Most are metalbut some are plastic, or thick leather.

TRACINGWHEEL(4,12,NE) – Used with tracing (marking) paper. The serrated edge is for woven, heavy-weight fabrics, and the smooth edge wheel is used on delicate, light-weight fabrics

Name_____________________ Course____________________Ironing and Pressing

IRONING: is the process of using an iron to remove wrinkles from damp, washable clothing. Heat and pressure are used to flatten the fabric. Ironing is done with a gliding or sliding motion. It is done to entire garments after laundering.

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PRESSING: involves no sliding of the iron. The iron is placed on the fabric and then lifted. Moisture is added from a pressing cloth or steam in the iron. This procedure is good for wool clothing and loose or bulky textures. It is often done to apparel between wearings. It is also done while constructing garments.

QUESTIONSPart A

1. You should always use ___________________ water in irons because _____________________________________________________________

2. Explain the temperature settings on the dial on most irons. _____________________________________________________________________________

3. What is the purpose of a pressing cloth? __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

4. Why is it important to iron with the grain of the fabric? __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

5. When ironing a garment the areas should you start with are the _______________ followed by ____________________ and finish with the ___________________.

6. Why should you iron dark, dull fabrics on the wrong side? __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

7. Why would you want to have cotton and linen be damp? __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

8. The cardinal rule in sewing is "Press as you go", what does this mean? __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

9. Why should you press seams flat before pressing them open? __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

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10. Why use a needle board on velvets, velveteens and corduroy? __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

11. Using a lifting and lowering motion is _________________. Using a sliding motion is _________________.

12. How should fusibles be applied? _____________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________

13. How should a straight seam usually be pressed? __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Part B

Identify the following pressing tools and tell what their purpose is.

1. _____________________________________________________________

2. _______________________________________________________________

3. _________________________________________________________________

4.

_______________________________

_________________________________

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Answer KeyIroning and Pressing

Part AQUESTIONS

1. You should always use __DISTILLED_________________ water in irons because TAP WATER CONTAINS LIME THAT WILL BUILD UP AND BLOCK VENTS IN

IRON CAUSING THE IRON TO STOP STEAMING.2. Explain the temperature settings on the dial on most irons. ___LOW-

SYNTHETICS, MEDIUM- WOOL AND SILK, HIGH- COTTON AND LINEN________.

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3. What is the purpose of a pressing cloth? _TO PREVENTSCORCHING OR SHINEY FABRIC, TO PROTECT THE IRON AND THE FABRIC_______.

4. Why is it important to iron with the grain of the fabric? __TO PREVENT STRETCHING THE FABRIC OUT OF SHAPE______________________.

5. When ironing a garment the areas should you start with are the _SMALL (COLLAR & CUFFS_ followed by _BACK_ and finish with the _FRONT_.

6. Why should you iron dark, dull fabrics on the wrong side? __TO PREVENT SHINEY SPOTS____________________________________________.

7. Why would you want to have cotton and linen be damp? __THEY WRINKLE TOO MUCH TO PRESS WELL WITHOUT BEING DAMP _______________.

8. The cardinal rule in sewing is "Press as you go", what does this mean? __PRESS EACH SEAM AS IT’S SEWN BEFORE STITCHING ADJOINING SEAMS -____.

9. Why should you press seams flat before pressing them open? _IT FLATENS AND SETS THE STITCHES SO THE SEAM LAYS SMOOTH AND FLATTER

10. Why use a needle board on velvets, velveteen’s and corduroy? _THE RAISED NAP WOULD FLATTEN OUT AND BECOME SHINEY WITHOUT A NEEDLE BOARD__.

11. Using a lifting and lowering motion is __PRESSING___. Using a sliding motion is __IRONING_______________.

12. How should fusibles be applied? _THE SIDE OF THE FUSIBLE WITH THE GLUE OR ADHISIVE SHOULD BE PLACED ON THE WRONG SIDE OF THE FABRIC. PRESS AND HOLD FOR 10 –15 SECONDS USING A PRESS CLOTH AND STEAM______.

13. How should a straight seam usually be pressed? _PRESS FLAT AND THEN OPEN__.

Part B

Identify the following pressing tools and tell what their purpose is.

1. SLEEVE BOARD - FOR ENCLOSED SEAMS SUCH AS

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SLEEVES

2. NEEDLE BOARD – FOR VELVETS AND CORDURY

3. POINT PRESSER – FOR POINTE AREAS SUCH AS COLLARS AND CUFFS

4. TAILOR’S HAM –

FOR DARTS AND CURVED SEAMS

Name:____________________________ Course: _______________________SEAM ALLOWANCES AND SEAM FINISHES

1. Cut out 4 squares 5” X 5” from fabric with a visible right side.

2. Do CLEAN FINISH sample on two sides of one square following the directions below. Do method one on one side and method two on the opposite side.

Method one: Stitch 1/4" seam along single edge of fabric. Press to wrong side of fabric along stitching line. Stitch next to the folded edge.

Method two: Fold 1/4” of edge to wrong side of fabric and

stitch 1/8” from the edge.

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1. CLEAN FIN

ISH

3. CUT remaining 3 squares in half and SEW 3 SEAM SAMPLES with the directions in the box below.

SEW a 5/8” seam with two of the halves SEW a 5/8” seam with another two halves SEW a 1/4" seam with the last two of the halves

______ OK with teacher before continuing

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SEAMS1. Place fabric right sides together.2. Use a 2½ stitch length.3. Backstitch 2-3 stitches at the beginning and end of all

seams.4. Sew straight and measure accurately.

4. STITCHED AND PINKED On the first seam stitch along each side of the seam allowance

separately with a straight stitch. (1/4” from the cut edge of seam) Stitching will not show on the right side of sample.

Trim edges with pinking shears

5. ZIGZAG SEAM OPEN On the second seam stitch along each side of the seam

allowance separately with a zigzag stitch (set zigzag on 4 or 5)

6. ZIGZAG SEAM CLOSED On the 1/4" seam allowance Zigzag the seam allowance

together (closed)

7. PRESS the seams and TAPE the samples to this paper with the labels showing to the right side of each sample

Seam Finishes – Rubric

  Excellent Satisfactory Needs Improvement

Clean Finish Edge is turned 1/4" to wrong side of fabric and stitched close to

Edge is turned to wrong side of fabric and

Edge is not turned and stitched properly.

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STITCHED

AND

PINKED

ZIGZA

G

SEAM

OPEN

ZIGZAG

SEAM CLO

SED

fold. stitched.Stitched & Pinked

Seam is a straight 5/8" and backstitched, with the right sides of fabric together. The seam is pressed open flat. The stitching is straight and the pinking is only cutting off a small amount of the seam allowance.

Seam is sewn with right sides of fabric together. The seam is pressed. The stitching and pinking are adequate.

The seam is irregular and the stitching and pinking are not properly placed.

Zigzag Open Seam is a straight 5/8" and backstitched, with the right sides of the fabric together. The seam is pressed open flat. The zigzag is the proper width for the fabric and placed close to the cut edge of the seam.

Seam is sewn with right sides of fabric together. The seam is pressed. The zigzag is adequate.

The seam may not be the proper width or backstitched. The fabric may not be right sides together and the zigzag is not properly placed.

Zigzag Closed Seam is a straight 1/4" and backstitched, with the right sides of fabric together. The seam is pressed to one side. The zigzag is the proper width for the fabric and placed close to the cut edge of the seam.

Seam is sewn with right sides of fabric together. The seam is pressed. The zigzag is adequate.

The seam may not be the proper width or backstitched. The fabric may not be right sides together and the zigzag is not properly placed.

Serged Open Seam is a straight 5/8" and backstitched, with the right sides of the fabric together. The seam is pressed open flat. The serging is straight and stitched close to the cut edge of the seam.

Seam is sewn with right sides of fabric together. The seam is pressed. The serging is adequate.

The seam may not be the proper width or backstitched. The fabric may not be right sides together and the serging is not even or straight.

Serged Closed Seam is a straight 1/4" and backstitched, with the right sides of fabric together. The seam is pressed to one side. The serging is the proper width for the fabric and placed close to the cut edge of the seam.

Seam is sewn with right sides of fabric together. The seam is pressed. The serging is adequate.

The seam may not be the proper width or backstitched. The fabric may not be right sides together and the serging is not even or straight.

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The Basic Sewing Kit

 

 

THE BASIC SEWING KIT

 Start with these essentials, and add specialized supplies as needed. 1. Assorted fasteners: Hooks and eyes, small snaps. 2. Sewing-machine needles: General-purpose sharp-point needles are good for most woven fabrics. For knits, use ball-point needles. 3. White buttons: Keep a small supply in various sizes. 4. Seam ripper: This tool opens seams almost effortlessly. 5. Safety pins: Store them on one pin so they don’t scatter throughout the basket. 6. Hand-sewing needles: With assorted sizes, you’ll be prepared to work on different fabrics. Sharps are best for most stitching and mending; ball points should be used on knits. 7. Needle threader: To use, slip the flexible wire loop through the eye of a hand needle, feed the thread through it, and pull the wire back out, bringing the thread with it. 8. Tailor’s chalk: Use this to mark fabric before cutting and altering. 9. Thimble: When hand sewing, wear it on your middle finger to push the needle through. 10. Beeswax: A wax coating keeps thread from tangling during hand sewing; keep it in a plastic holder with slots to slide the needle and thread through. 11. Tape measure: Use this to measure soft, curved things (use a yardstick to measure fabric on a work surface). 12. Thread: All-purpose is appropriate for most sewing. Use extra-thin thread on particularly fine fabrics; heavy-duty on thick fabrics. Buttonhole twist is good for buttonholes and decorative stitching. 13. Pin holder: A magnetic one can pick up scattered pins. For cutting fabric, a pair of good quality sewing scissors or dressmaker’s shears is a necessity; you’ll also need pinking shears to prevent fabric from fraying. There are several types of sewing scissors, each with a specific purpose.

Sewing Machine Parts and Functions

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The following terms are words you should become familiar with to help you locate and explain what your sewing machine is doing (or not doing). There are many different models of sewing machines, and the location of parts may vary, but this is a list of basic parts found on most sewing machines. (teacher suggestion: label parts on one or two machines as reference in case students get stuck.)

1. Use your course text, sewing instruction manual, and other classroom resources provided by your teacher to describe the function of each of the following parts.

2. When you have defined what each part does, fold your page in half (lengthwise), and find a sewing partner to take to a sewing machine. Each of you will take turns finding parts on the machine and explaining what each part does.

Bobbin case

Bobbin winder

Feed dogs

Hand wheel

Needle clamp screw

Power and light switch

Presser foot

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Pressure regulator

Reverse stitch control

Spool pins

Stitching guidelines

Stitch length control

Stitch selector

Stitch width control

Take-up lever

Thread guides

Throat guide

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3 Explain below in your own words how a sewing machine operates:

______________________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________________

Figure 9: Locating Machine Parts

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Answer KeyBobbin case Holds the bobbin in place

Applies tension to bobbin thread(the thread that shows on the underside of stitching)

Bobbin winder Winds the thread onto the bobbin

Feed dogs Moves the fabric under the presser foot.

Hand wheel Turns to raise or lower the needle and thread take-up lever

Needle clamp screw Holds the needle in place

Power and light switch Turns the machine on and illuminates sewing tasks

Presser foot Raises and lowers the presser foot.

Pressure regulator Adjusts the amount of pressure the presser foot applies to the fabric.

Reverse stitch control Allows the machine to sew backwards.

Spool pins Holds the spool of thread that feeds the top stitching side of fabric.

Stitching guidelines Keep edge of fabric aligned so seam allowances will be uniform in width.

Stitch length control Adjusts the number of stitches per inch.(about 10 stitches per inch for regular seam stitching and stay-stitching).

Stitch selector Changes the type of stitches – eg. Straight, zigzag, scalloped

Stitch width control Adjusts the width of zigzag and other 2-D stitches.

Take-up lever Pulls the thread form the spool and through the tension regulator.

Thread guides Guides thread from the spool pin to the needle.

Throat guide Covers the area around the needle.

Note: You may want to print additional copies of the above machine part and function chart on coloured paper – fold the chart along the solid center line (lengthwise) and apply glue – set and cut into flash cards. You now have a game for students to review parts and functions of the machine.

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Objectives Students will design a poster intended to promote safety awareness in the fashion lab and to provide signage reminders in designated areas in the lab facilities.

Motivator Discuss safety considerations and safe equipment handling and use of technology. Ask students to brainstorm safety slogans relevant in lab setting.A list of possible rules is available (See Figure 15, p. 51)

Instructions Explain the purpose of the poster (to promote safety awareness in the fashion lab)Have examples of effective posters (See p 45; and Figure 11-14, p 49 and 50)Discuss requirements and expectations (See Figure 10: Safety Poster Rubric,

p.34.)Students should use actual objects; magazine/pamphlet cut outs, drawings, graphics and text, to explain the main concept of their poster.

Materials Poster board (or legal size paper), markers, glue, scissors, cutting magazines,computer with Internet access. The following sites may be visited to get additionalsafety information and ideas:

http://www.spewingforth.blogspot.com/2004/06/ergonomics-transformation-in.html

http://www.esao.on.ca

http://www.gov.on/ca/lab/ann/00-0042b3e.jtm

http://www.ccohs.ca/healthyworkplaces/topics/healthandsafety.html

http://www.osha-safety-training.net/POS/POS1/page1.html

http://www.geocities.com/ocesafetyposter/poster3.htm

Evaluation Evaluation will be based on the educational quality of the student’s poster, as well as aesthetic aspects of the poster’s layout. The rubric for the requirements is included with this assignment, however, you may choose to develop you own, orbetter yet, develop them with the class.

Provide examples of posters and let the students use the rubric to judge examples.This helps them to assess their own work using the rubric. If you wish, the studentscan peer critique each other’s posters prior to finalizing and submitting them forteacher evaluation.

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Fashion Lab Safety Poster – Rubric

Category 4 3 2 1

Title

The title can be read from 6 feet away and is verycreative.

The title can be read from 6 feet away & describes content well.

Most words can be read from 4 feet away & describes content.

Many words can not be read from a distance of 2 feet or does not describe content of poster well.

Content

Addresses a relevant safety issue in a way that is easy to understand.

Addresses a safety issue in a way that is easy to understand.

Addresses a safety issue, but is presented in a way that is difficult to grasp.

The poster does not address a safety issue.

Graphics

Variety of graphics that reflect an exceptional degree of creativity in creation & display.

Some graphics used reflect creativity in the creation and display.

Graphics created by student but based on designs or ideas of others.

No graphics made by the student are included.

Does not support the concept in the poster.

Attractiveness

Very neat and appealing in design & layout.

Attractive in terms of design, neatness and layout.

Acceptably attractive but it may be a bit messy.

Distracting, messy or very poorly designed poster. It is not attractive.

Spelling and Grammar

No spelling or grammatical errors in poster.

Few (<2) spelling or grammatical errors.

Several (<5) spelling mistakes or grammatical errors.

Many (>5) spelling mistakes or grammatical errors.

Figure 10: Fashion Lab Safety Poster Rubric

Total Marks: /20 (Each category is worth a maximum of 4 marks )

Comments: __________________________________________________________________

___________________________________________________________________

34

Reading a Sewing Pattern Adapted From: Sewing For Dummies, 2nd Edition

Even though a sewing pattern might be labeled "easy" or "quick," the pattern instruction writers sometimes assume that you have a certain amount of general sewing knowledge. Nothing can be more intimidating than trying to figure out what all the hieroglyphics are on the various parts of a pattern. Don't have a pattern panic attack! Take a look at each of the standard pattern parts one at a time, and you'll be shopping for patterns like a pro in no time.

Reading the front of the pattern envelope

On the front of the pattern envelope, you often see several style variations of the same project. In the world of sewing, these style variations are called views. One view may have a collar, long sleeves, and cuffs. Another view may have a V-neck and short sleeves.

In home decor patterns, you may have several views in one pattern for a basic window treatment. Another pattern may have several pillow views. A third has several options for slipcovers. Views simply give you style options on creating the same basic project.

Reading the back of the pattern envelope

The back of a pattern envelope contains the following information about your project:

The back of the project in detail: The front of the pattern usually just shows the front of your project.

A description of the project by view: Always read the description of a project on the back of the pattern envelope. Drawings and photographs can be deceiving, but this written description tells you exactly what you're getting.

How much fabric to buy: This information is based on the width of the fabric you choose, the view you're making, your size, and whether your fabric has nap or not.

If your fabric has nap, the pattern requires you to buy a little more fabric. Your fabric has nap if it falls contains any of these qualities:

• One-way design: For example, your fabric shows dancing elephants printed in the same direction. If you cut out some of the pattern pieces in one direction and other pattern pieces in the opposite direction, you'll find elephants dancing right side up on part of the project and upside down on another part of the same project. You need extra fabric so that you can get all your elephants going in the right direction.

35

• Fuzzy texture: Such as velvet, corduroy, Polar fleece, and some sweatshirt fleeces. When brushed in one direction, the fabric is smooth; when brushed in the other direction, it's rough. This texture difference translates into a color difference. You need more fabric to cut out the pattern pieces in the same direction.

• Uneven stripe: For example, the fabric has three colored stripes — red, blue, and yellow. To match the stripes at the seams, you need extra fabric because the pattern must be laid out in the same direction. If the front and back pattern pieces are laid out in opposite directions, the stripes are cut on the front, going from red, to blue, to yellow. The stripes on the back would be cut so that they go from yellow, to blue, to red. When you sew the seam together, the stripes won't match at the side seams.

• Even or uneven plaid: The color bars in a plaid must match both vertically and horizontally. If the plaid is not symmetrical in one or both directions, you need to lay out the pattern pieces all going in the same direction. This technique requires more fabric — for making the plaid match.

List of notions needed for specific views: These notions include items such as the number and size of buttons, the zipper length and type, elastic width and length, shoulder pad style and size, hooks and eyes, and so on.

It's what's inside that counts

Inside your pattern envelope, you find the following items necessary for your project:

Pattern pieces: Some pattern pieces are printed on large pieces of tissue paper. Others are printed on sturdy pieces of white paper called master patterns.

To preserve the master pattern for reuse, simply trace the size you need onto a piece of pattern tracing material. (This material is available through sewing mail-order catalogs and specialty fabric stores. Look for Trace-A-Pattern and Do-Sew brands.)

This way, you can trace off another view or cut out a project for someone else who is a different size without destroying the master pattern.

Key and glossary: These references help you decipher the markings on the pattern pieces.

Pattern layout: The layout shows you how to lay out the pattern pieces on the fabric yardage for each view.

Step-by-step instructions on how to put the project together: Instructions are written in various degrees of clarity depending on your knowledge of sewing.

The project instructions may run more than one page. If they do, staple the pages together in the upper-left corner and post them in front of you as you sew. Then you can easily check off each step as you finish it. If you don't have a place to post the sheet, set it next to your sewing machine, folded to the section you're working on, for a handy reference.

Copyright © 2006 & Trademark by Wiley Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved. Please read our Privacy Policy.

SYMBOL SYNTAX

Name: ____________________________ Score: /15

36

Directions: On the line below, write the meaning of the pattern symbols used for laying out, cutting and marking your fabric.

1. ___________________________________________________

2. ______________________________________________

3. ______________________________________________

4. ______________________________________________

5. ______________________________________________

6. ______________________________________________

7. ______________________________________________

8. ______________________________________________

9. ______________________________________________

10. ______________________________________________

11. ______________________________________________

12. What is a selvage?________________________________

13. Why should you preshrink your fabric before cutting it out?_______________________________________________

14. What does the terms nap or directional design mean? What should do when laying out your pattern pieces ? ______________________________________________________________________________________________

15. What is the difference between lengthwise and crosswise grain?

ANSWER KEYSymbol Syntax

37

Directions: On the line below, write the meaning of the pattern symbols used for laying out, cutting and marking your fabric.

1. Straight of grain

3. Place on fold

4. Cutting line

5. Notches

6. Buttonholes

7. Markings to transfer dots and circles

8. Lengthen or shorten here in multi-size patterns

9. Lengthen or shorten here in one-size patterns

10. Dingle-end dart and double-end dart

11. Pleat and gathering lines

12. Stitching line

13. What is a selvage? The woven edge of the fabric.

14. Why should you preshrink your fabric before cutting it out? To eliminate having the garment shrink when washed.

15. What does the term nap or directional design mean? What should you do when laying your pattern pieces out? Face the tops of the pattern pieces all in the same direction.

16. What is the difference between lengthwise and crosswise grain? Lengthwise threads are parallel to selvage—crosswise threads are perpendicular.

Letter to Parent/Guardian

38

School nameAddressDate

Dear Families,

This school term your son/daughter, _________________________, (student’s name) is taking the Family Studies course, __________________________ (course name and code) as part of his/her Grade ___ (9-12) studies. We are pleased to be able to provide students with opportunities for hands-on activities that develop their skills and understanding of course material. In these activities students will be using a variety of machines and equipment that have the potential to cause injury. The safety of our students is extremely important to us and we at _________________ (School Name) are proud of our safety record in the Family Studies department.

All students will be completing a series of activities concerning safety in the fashion classroom before being allowed to work in the fashion lab. We encourage you to help your son/daughter value correct and safe use of all technology and equipment in the fashion lab for the health and well-being of all students.

Our aim is to provide ________________ (student’s name) with a safe and enjoyable practical experience that will enhance his/her learning. All students will sign a safety contract that outlines the safety rules and appropriate behaviour in the lab situations. Please review this contract with your daughter/son and sign in the appropriate place. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to call me at _____________________ (school number and extension). Thank you for your attention to this matter.

Yours truly,

Family Studies Teacher

For safety is not a gadget but a state of mind.  ~ Eleanor Everet

39

Fashion Safety Agreement

As a student in this fashion class, there are a few safety rules you must observe. There are definite reasons for each of the rules in the classroom and understanding these reasons will make it much easier to remember and observe that rule.

1. Students must not use any equipment unless a teacher is present.

2. Running and “horseplay” will not be tolerated in the classroom.

3. Use care and common sense when using any sharp tools. For example, always keep hands and fingers away from the tool’s cutting edge or moving parts.

4. Protective eyewear is available for students to use.

5. Protective footwear is advisable. No open-toed shoes are permitted in the fashion labs.

6. Long hair, loose clothing, and jewelry must be tied back or removed.

7. Never use any piece of equipment until you have personally been given instruction by the teacher about the safe use of the equipment. If you are absent when instruction is given about the safe operation of the equipment, you must check personally with the teacher for this information when you return.

8. Report any damage or defective equipment or safety hazards to the teacher immediately.

9. If you are injured, even slightly, report it to the teacher immediately.

10. Keep the classroom area clean. All backpacks, books, purses etc. must be kept out of the sewing area. Housekeeping and lock-up procedures are a joint responsibility of students in on-going lab participation.

11. At the end of class it is your responsibility to clean up your area and ensure that your machine is covered, needle tip properly protected, presser foot is cleared from floor and power cord is unplugged.

My signature below indicates that I have read this Fashion Safety agreement, I agree with it and will make every effort to follow each of the above safety rules.

Student Signature ______________________________ Date __________________________

Parent Signature _______________________________ Date __________________________

The Teacher’s Signature indicates this student meets basic health and safety agreements and is given permission to participate in the fashion labs:

_______________________________________________ Date ___________________________Family Studies Teacher

For safety is not a gadget but a state of mind.  ~ Eleanor Everet

40

TEACHER OBSERVATIONFACILITY SAFETY CHECKLIST

The teacher on a regular basis should complete this checklist. Using the criteria listed, observe to see if the fashion lab meets safety conditions. Check the appropriate column.

Criteria Yes No

1. Sewing equipment has been stored in the designated area in an orderly and safe condition.

2. Floors are free from clutter with no potentially hazardous tripping situations noted.

3. Good lighting and adequate space has been allotted each student.

4. Equipment is maintained and in good working order.

5. Instruction has been provided for the safe operation of machines and equipment.

6. Manufacturers instructions are readily available for all equipment being used in the classroom.7. Fire prevention equipment is available and regularly checked.

8. Students have been trained to know what to do in case of fire.

9. Students have been trained to know what to do if an injury occurs in the classroom.

10.Teachers have reviewed and discussed potential and specific hazards associated with the machines.11. Students have signed a safety contract and are aware of their responsibilities to maintain a safe and healthy workspace.12. Students routinely observe safety procedures and are aware of dangers.

13. Safe procedures are properly indicated or guarded in the classroom.

14. Classroom is monitored daily to maintain safe and clean workspaces.

15. Safety equipment and protective devices are available as required and requested.

16. Tables, machines, and equipment are arranged to allow safe working conditions.

17. Hand tools and sharp sewing equipment are kept clean, handles in good condition, in safe working order and stored properly as part of lock-up procedures.

1. Did the classroom meet all of the safety criteria?

2. If not, describe what needs to be done to make the environment safe.

Out of this nettle, danger, we pluck this flower, safety.  ~ William Shakespeare

41

PERSONAL SAFETY HABIT EVALUATION

This list can be used from time to time by students and/or posted at each sewing machine as a reminder to students of safe habits in the lab.

I have been trained in the safe operation of this machine.

My clothing/jewelry will not interfere with the safe operation of this machine.

First I plug the machine in, then turn it on.

The electrical cord does not create a tripping hazard.

My work area and aisle around the machine is clear.

The presser foot and needle are lowered when not in use.

When changing the needle or presser foot the machine is off.

My hands and face are a safe distance from the needle while operating the machine.

I slow down when approaching curves, thicker layers of fabric, buttons, zippers and straight pins.

I remove straight pins from fabric before sewing over an area.

When fabric bunching occurs and a knot begins to form, I stop sewing.

My equipment is safely stored in the designated area when not in use.

I participate in end of lab housekeeping and lock-up procedures.

I turn off and unplug the sewing machine at the end of class.

Safety doesn't happen by accident.  ~ Author Unknown

42

SAFETY INSPECTION REPORT

School: ________________________________ Date of Inspection: _____________________Facility: ________________________________ Time of Inspection: _____________________

Item Hazards Observed

Repeat Item

Yes No

RecommendedAction

CorrectiveAction Taken

Date Completed

AuthorizedSignature

Copies to:(for action)Copies to:(for information)

Adapted from MBEY (2003), Keeping your facilities SAFE document for Industrial Arts Teachers

43

Teacher Observation Safety Report

Course: _________________________________ Teacher: ______________________________School: _________________________________ Class Period: __________________________

Observation/Codes: Level 4: Demonstrates leadership in safe practices.Level 3: Observes and obeys all safe work procedures most of the time.Level 2: Needs to be reminded to wear frequently about health and safety practices.Level 1: Demonstrates unsafe behaviour and/or poor clean-up participation.

Enter DateStudent Name

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

15.

16.

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25.

Adapted from MBEY (2003), Keeping your facilities SAFE document for Industrial Arts Teachers

44

SERGERSAFETY RULES

A serger is a piece of equipment. Use EXTREME care when using any power equipment no matter how often you use it.

It is important that threading is carried out in the correct sequence as outlined in the instruction manual.

Keep face, hands and fingers a safe distance from the needle.

Do not pull the fabric, but guide it gently in front of the lowered presser foot.

Do not serge over pins – remove before you get to them.

Slowly approach curves and thickness in fabric.

Stop sewing if bunching occurs.

When finished serging, do not raise the presser foot. Sew a long chain of at least 3cm of thread to avoid tangles.

Strange noises from the serger suggest that something is wrong. Consult the instruction manual and the teacher immediately.

Before performing any care or troubleshooting on your machine making sure that the serger is unplugged from the power source.

45

SEWING MACHINESAFETY RULES

A sewing machine is a piece of equipment. Use extreme care when using any power equipment no matter how often you use it.

Always be aware of the up and down movement of the needle and do not turn your attention from the machine while it is running.

Check instruction manual for correct threading procedure.

Never pull hard on the fabric or thread or in any way try to force the machine to sew.

Do not sew over pins.

If the fabric does not feed through, turn off the power, and consult the instruction manual and the teacher.

Listen to strange noises from the sewing machine. This is a way for the machine to tell you that something is wrong.

At first sign of trouble, turn the machine off, wait until it stops completely and then call the teacher.

Before performing any care or troubleshooting on your machine making sure that the sewing machine is unplugged from the power source.

Sewing equipment is to be used only for the purpose it is intended. Any misuse may result in personal injury or destruction of the equipment.

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47

THE USE OF SEWING EQUIPMENT

Make sure that the iron is unplugged when not in use.

The ironing board must be well placed and balanced.

The soleplate of the iron is to be kept clean.

Use the iron at the correct setting for your fabric.

Hands and face are kept a safe distance from heat and steam.

Iron is kept resting on its heel when not in use.

Hold the blade of scissors/shears closed and downward when walking with them.

When passing scissors to another person, place them on a flat surface and let the other person pick them up.

Never run with scissors or similar objects.

Always use a pincushion or pin container and never put pins in your mouth.

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FASHION LABSAFETY

• Students must not use any equipment unless a teacher is present.

• Never operate any piece of equipment until you have personally been given instruction in its safe use.

• Report any damage or defective equipment or safety hazards to the teacher immediately.

• Keep your sewing area neat and tidy. Keep all backpacks, purses, and books away from the sewing area.

• Keep floor area clear to prevent accidents.

• Long hair, loose clothing, and jewelry must be tied back or removed.

• Do not unplug equipment by pulling on the cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

• Never operate any equipment if it has a damaged cord or plug.

• Place all electrical cords out of the way so it isn’t a tripping hazard.

• Your sewing area MUST be cleaned up at the end of each class.

• Ensure that all equipment is turned off and unplugged before you leave the classroom.

• Report ALL accidents to the teacher immediately.

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Certificate of Achievement

Awarded to: ________________Student’s Name

for demonstrating skilled sewing machine use

Sewing Machine Operator’s Permit

__________________ __________________Date Family Studies Teacher

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Figure 16: Sewing Machine Operator’s Permit (JPG source: http://www.findlays.ca/images/sewing-images/sewing-home_r2_c15.jpg

References

Antique Metal Thimble (Figure 5). Retrieved from the World Wide Web on July 9, 2006 at http://www.collectibleskingdom.com/thimble.jpg

Basic Equipment (Appendix C). Retrieved from the World Wide Web on July 15, 2006 athttp://www.sewing.org/files/guidelines/1_105_basic_tools.pdf

Canadian Center for Occupational Health and Safety School Workers Health and Safety Guide. (2nd ed) Abstracted from the World Wide Web on May 7, 2002 at http://www.ccohs.ca

Choosing and Using Cutting Tools (Appendix E). Retrieved from the World Wide Web on July 15, 2006 at http://www.sewing.org/files/guidelines/1_130_scissors_shears.pdf

Iron and Pressing Cloth (Figure 3). Retrieved from the World Wide Web on July 9, 2006 at http://www.linktotheweb.com/clironpressingcloth.jpg

Key Planning Principles (Appendix I). Extrapolated from the World Wide Web on July 16, 2006 from the following link: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.teachernet.gov.uk/designandtechnology/uploadimages/Mounts_bay18.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.teachernet.gov.uk/designandtechnology/redir.cfm%3Fid%3D4177&h=160&w=222&sz=34&hl=en&start=16&tbnid=ZsJgOmnV4m-OQM:&tbnh=73&tbnw=102&prev=/images%3Fq%3Ddiagram%2Bof%2Bsewing%2Bmachine%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26rls%3DGGLR,GGLR:2005-52,GGLR:en%26sa%3DN

LifeTips (2006). Sewing lab considerations for organization, design and layout. Extrapolated from the World Wide Web on July 14, 2006 at http://www.lifetips.com

Machine Spacing (Appendix G). Extrapolated from the World Wide Web on July 16, 2006 athttp://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.teachernet.gov.uk/designandtechnology/uploadimages/Mounts_bay18.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.teachernet.gov.uk/designandtechnology/redir.cfm%3Fid%3D4177&h=160&w=222&sz=34&hl=en&start=16&tbnid=ZsJgOmnV4m-OQM:&tbnh=73&tbnw=102&prev=/images%3Fq%3Ddiagram%2Bof%2Bsewing%2Bmachine%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26rls%3DGGLR,GGLR:2005-52,GGLR:en%26sa%3DN

Manitoba Education and Youth. (MBEY) (2003). Keeping your facilities safe: A support

document for industrial arts teachers. Winnipeg: The Crown in Right of Manitoba represented by the Minister of Education and Youth.

Miscellaneous Sewing Equipment (Figure 4). Retrieved from the World Wide Web on July 9, 2006 at http://www.yourdictionary.com/images/ahd/jpg/A4notion.jpg

Occupational Health and Safety Act (1990). Retrieved from the World Wide Web on July 8, 2006at http://www.e-laws.gov.on.ca/DBLaws/Statutes/English/90o01_e.htm

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Ontario Ministry of Education and Training (1999). The Ontario curriculum, grades 9 and 10: Social sciences and the humanities. Ottawa: Queen’s Printer for Ontario.

Ontario Ministry of Education and Training (2000). The Ontario curriculum, grades 11 and 12: Social sciences and humanities. Ottawa: Queen’s Printer for Ontario.

Ontario Workplace Health and Safety. Workers’ safety and the right to know. Abstracted from the World Wide Web on July 10, 2006 at http://www.gov.on.ca/labour/safety

Reading a Sewing Pattern (2006). Retrieved from the World Wide Web on August 8, 2006 athttp://www.dummies.com/WileyCDA/DummiesArticle/id-872,subcat-HOBBIES.html?print=true

Risk Management Technology Review Committee. (2005). Safety guideline for hospitality/foods services facilities. Procedural document for the Halton Catholic District School Board .

Room Design and Layout (Appendix G). Extrapolated from the World Wide Web on July 16, 2006 from the following link: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.teachernet.gov.uk/designandtechnology/uploadimages/Mounts_bay18.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.teachernet.gov.uk/designandtechnology/redir.cfm%3Fid%3D4177&h=160&w=222&sz=34&hl=en&start=16&tbnid=ZsJgOmnV4m-OQM:&tbnh=73&tbnw=102&prev=/images%3Fq%3Ddiagram%2Bof%2Bsewing%2Bmachine%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26rls%3DGGLR,GGLR:2005-52,GGLR:en%26sa%3DN

Safety quotations cited throughout this document were abstracted from the World Wide Web on July 12, 2006 at http://www.quotegarden.com/safety.html

Seam Ripper (Figure 6). Retrieved from the World Wide Web on July 9, 2006 at http://www.images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://missourifamilies.org/learningopps/learnmaterial/tools/toolsjb/tools400/seamripsqr400.jpg&imgrefurl=http://missourifamilies.org/learningopps/learnmaterial/tools/seamripper.htm&h=400&w=400&sz=69&hl=en&start=10&tbnid=WZVdO6A0KTaOrM:&tbnh=120&tbnw=120&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dseam%2Brippers%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D

Serger Machine Basics (Appendix B). Retrieved from the World Wide Web on July 15, 2006 athttp://www.sewing.org/files/guidelines/2_150_serger.pdf

Sewing Machine Basics (Appendix A). Retrieved from the World Wide Web on July 15, 2006 athttp://www.sewing.org/files/guidelines/2_102_sewing_machine_basics.pdf

Sewing Machine Operator’s Permit (Figure 16) JPG graphic adapted from the World Wide Web on July 20, 2006 at http://www.findlays.ca/images/sewing-images/sewing-home_r2_c15.jpg

Sewing Safety 1O1 (Figure 1) Retrieved from the World Wide Web on July 10, 2006 athttp://www.sewfastseweasy/com/photo_album/Kids+Teens+Sewing/index.hph?start=4

Sewing Shears (Figure 8). Retrieved from the World Wide Web on July 9, 2006 at http://www.i.timeinc.net/toh/images/tools/tm200504_snip513.jpg

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Sewing Tools (Appendix D). Retrieved from the World Wide Web on July 15, 2006 athttp://www.sewing.org/files/guidelines/1_107_sewing_tools.pdf

Tracing Wheels (Figure 7). Retrieved from the World Wide Web on August 11, 2006 at http://www.thecostumestore.co.uk/mall/TheCostumeStore/customerimages/products/04-07.jpg

The Basic Sewing Kit. Retrieved from the World Wide Web on August 8, 2006 athttp://www.marthastewart.com/page.jhtml?type=content&id=channel172053

Weber, J. (1990) Clothing: Fashion, fabrics, and construction. Peoria, IL: Glencoe and McGraw-Hill.

Westfall, M. (2002). Successful sewing. Tinley Park, IL: The Goodheart-Willcox.

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Appendix A

Sewing Machine BasicsWhether you’re purchasing your first sewing machine or trading up to one with more bells and whistles, it’s helpful to understand the basic features so you can make an educated choice.

Power SwitchSome machines have a power switch to turn the machine off and on, and this switch may be separate from the one controlling the machine light. With many students frequenting the sewing area, a power switch is a safety option. If the machine doesn’t have a power switch, consider plugging it into a safety strip with a master switch.

LightGood task lighting is essential to successful sewing. A machine may have one or more light locations, but be sure one is well directed at the presser foot and needle area. Some lights operate independent of the machine power.

StitchesMachines have varying number of stitches, from the straight stitch, which is essential for ordinary seaming, to hundreds of decorative stitches. Evaluate your students sewing needs and match them to the stitch selection. Good basics include straight, zigzag, blind hem, mending and buttonhole stitches and the ability to stitch in reverse for anchoring seams. Note the maximum stitch length and width capabilities of each machine. If you plan to sew on knits, look for stretch stitches and/or overcast stitches with built-in flexibility. For creative potential, many machines offer a myriad of decorative stitches. Keep in mind that more stitches doesn’t necessarily mean a better or higher quality machine, and if you don’t envision a use for them, perhaps you can get by with fewer stitches and trade up later if needed.

Display ScreenComputerized machines feature an LCD or LED display screen showcasing stitch options and adjustments. Check for clarity and a comfortable size you can see clearly.

Tension AdjustmentUpper and lower thread tensions need to be balanced to produce a good stitch. Some machineshave numbered external dials for adjusting upper tension, others have computerized adjustment capabilities. The bobbin thread tension is adjustable with a screw on the bobbin casing.

Presser FeetCheck to see how many presser feet come with the machine. A multipurpose foot allows you to stitch straight and zigzag stitches for basic sewing, but you’ll also need a zipper foot, buttonhole foot and a blind hem foot if the machine has a hemming stitch. Beyond these basics, the world is your oyster for specialty presser feet. Common accessory feet include a Teflon foot for sticky fabrics, decorative stitch feet, narrow hemming feet and hundreds more, depending on the machine model. Keep in mind that there are brand-specific feet and generic feet and both could be usable on your machine. The first is available only from a dealer, and the second from notion companies or the fabric store. Many machines allow you to adjust the pressure on the presser foot to accommodate thick or thin fabrics. Some also allow extra lifting space to insert thick fabrics or position a free-motion

Thread DeliverySewing machines may have one or more vertical and/or horizontal spool pins to hold thread. Novelty and metallic threads often require alternate positioning to feed properly without tangling, slipping or binding. If a sewing machine has more than one spool pin, it usually indicates that you can use a double or triple needle for decorative work. Check your manual.

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BobbinsEvery machine needs a bobbin to form stitches. Some allow you to wind the bobbin while sewing, others do not. Most machines offer a sensor to stop winding the bobbin when it’s full, and some also have a built-in sensor to alert you when the bobbin is running low on thread while stitching.

Needle PositionComputerized and electronic machine models allow for multiple needle position adjustment. This is important if you want to move your stitching line to the left or right while keeping the fabric on the full width of the feed dog for even feeding and stitch length.

Feed DogsFeed dogs, the “teeth” under the presser foot that move the fabric, can be lowered on many machines for free motion stitching, bar tacking, darning and other novelty uses. If lowering isn’t possible, a cover plate should be available.

ButtonholesButtonhole making is essential for garment construction and many machines offer several types of buttonhole stitches, depending on the fabric choice. At minimum, look for a buttonhole suitable for woven fabrics and another option for knits, and check if sizing is determined and maintained by the machine or manually.

Nice-to-Have OptionsA built-in needle threader is helpful if vision and dexterity are a concern, or if you plan to stitch regularly with novelty threads. A needle stop, allowing you to automatically select whether the needle stops up or down, is helpful for quilting and topstitching. If you plan to do work that regularly requires you to use both hands, consider a model with a knee-lift for the presser foot. A knee-lift allows you to raise or lower the presser foot with your knee, keeping your hands free to maneuver the fabric. A hard machine cover is good if you plan to transport your machine between classes, or if you don’t have a permanent location for your sewing area and must move or store it frequently.

ToolsSome basic tools and accessories should come with a machine—screw driver (to help change the needle) and a small brush (to get rid of lint) are basics. Other helpful supplies are oil, if the machine requires lubrication, and assorted needles. Machines also often come with caps or nets to help control slippery threads.

The Fine PointsBe sure to understand the warranty and service needs of a new sewing machine. What exactly is covered and for how long? Does the warranty include parts and labor, or only manufacturing defects? Is an optional extended warranty available and, if so, what is the cost and what does it cover? When the machine needs to be repaired or serviced, is it done at the dealer, or does it need to be shipped out somewhere? What is the usual turnaround time and can you obtain a loaner machine in the interim?

InstructionA manual should come with the machine, but many now come with videos or DVDs to show you how to use all the features. You can also check on-line dealer web sites for the machine’s use.Once you understand the basic features of a sewing machine, be sure to stitch on all models and brands you’re considering purchasing. When “test driving” a machine you are interested in, take a wide variety of fabric samples and threads with you to the store. Test these fabrics and threads using a variety of the stitches on each machine before you make a decision.

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Appendix B

Serger Machine BasicsNot long ago, sergers were only available for commercial use. The machines were huge, heavy and impractical for home sewers. Fortunately, the market has changed and there is a wonderful assortment of industrial-quality sergers, at a variety of price points, designed specifically for home sewers.

What is a Serger?A serger is a special-purpose machine that produces professionally finished seams, like those found on ready-to-wear garments. It uses between two and nearly a dozen threads to encase the raw edge of the fabric with an overcast stitch, while trimming away the seam allowance—all at speeds of up to 1,700 stitches per minute. Instead of a bobbin and single needle, the serger has a cutting blade, “loopers” and multiple needles. Sergers are used to clean-finish the seam allowance although today’s models can do far more than that, and they have become increasingly easy to operate, creatively diverse in stitch capability and more economical to own.

What Does a Serger Do?A serger does not replace a sewing machine. Its primary function is to clean finish a raw edge, giving the project a professional appearance. Many serger stitches have built-in stretch, making them the perfect tool for seaming knit fabrics. Additionally, the eyes of the loopers are larger than the eyes of sewing needles and can therefore accommodate thicker decorative threads.

About Serger StitchesAs the number of needles and loopers increases, so does the diversity of the stitches; and as the stitch diversity increases, so does the price. Once you understand the stitches, you can ask aserger dealer which machine best suits your needs. For information on types of serger stitches and what they're used for.

What Sergers Do What Sergers Don’t Do• Finish seams and edges • Baste• Sew stretch seams • Sew in reverse• Embellish with decorative thread • Install zippers• Embellish with flat-lock, chain stitch or cover stitch • Make buttonholes• Reduce puckering and rippling on hard-to-sew fabrics • Embroider• Apply elastic and other trims • Topstitch (unless the machine• Hem sheer and lightweight fabrics without puckering is capable of cover-stitching)• Hem garments with cover-stitch• Edge-finish reversible items• Execute beautiful rolled hems• Finish with decorative edgings• Gather fabric (differential-feed adjustment)• Speed up construction time

Threading Ease: Nothing is more frustrating than a machine that is too difficult to use. Thread and rethread any machine you’re considering buying. Be sure you know how to thread the lower looper; it’s usually the most challenging thread path. Most sergers have color-coded thread paths and lay-in threading.

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Differential Feed: This adjusts the movement of the feed dogs, and therefore how the fabric feeds, to eliminate puckers, stretching and ripples in seams. It can also be adjusted to gather the fabric.

Included Accessory Feet: The more accessories included with the machine, the better. They’re quite expensive to buy separately.

Instructional Classes and On-Site Repair: If possible, take classes to learn all the functions of the machine. Hands-on experience will help you get the most mileage from your purchase. Ask if classes and/or an instructional video are included in the cost of the machine.

LCD Screen:Found on more-expensive machines, the display panel shows machine adjustment information for all the various stitches.

Conversion Ease: Be sure to ask how the machine converts from a standard serger stitch to a rolled hem or chain stitch. Sometimes it’s a button/dial; sometimes it involves disengaging a thread path or adding a conversion plate. Also ask if the blades can be disengaged and if so how do you disengage the blades/knives?

Do You Need or Want a Serger?Do you need a serger? Probably not. Do you want a serger? Most certainly yes! Both beginning and experienced sewers benefit from tools that simplify sewing and make professional results easier. Most sewing machines have an overlock or overcast stitch in their library of stitches, so why do you need a serger? You don’t really need one, but they’re nice to have, and, while a sewing machine can certainly perform an overcast stitch, it can’t cut the fabric as it stitches, and it can’t use the thicker, decorative threads that are so popular. And most sewing machines don’t sew anywhere near as fast as sergers.

Ask yourself:• Will you use the machine for more than edge finishes?• Will you seam knits? Wovens?• Will you experiment with decorative threads?• Will you embellish fabric with the flatlock stitch?• Will you be sewing curtains, drapes and other large items that require clean seams?

Determine how much you think you will use a serger, familiarize yourself with the various stitches and then take time to visit at least two serger dealers. Have the dealer demonstrate the machine and explain its stitch capability. Practice threading several different models before making a purchase. If possible, purchase your serger from a dealer so you have the opportunity to take classes, ask follow-up questions and utilize convenient repair and maintenance service.

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Appendix C

Basic EquipmentThere are some sewing tools that you can’t even begin without. The correct sewing tool makes any sewing project easier. Knowing which tool to select and where to use it will simplify and improve the outcome of each sewing step. The sewing tools listed below are the basic tools of the trade that help you save precious sewing time. Compare the items listed below to those in your sewing basket, and treat yourself to some of the ones that are missing. Also, look for new sewing tools at the notions counter of your favorite sewing store every time you shop. Ask for a demonstration if you’re not sure how particular products work. When you purchase sewing tools select brand names for their quality and products that have clear directions.

Disappearing Ink PenA nonpermanent ink pen, usually with blue or violet ink, is used for transferring pattern markings. The ink eventually disappears (air-soluble) or is easily removed with water (water-soluble). Check the ink on a scrap of the fabric prior to using it on your projects.

Iron & Ironing BoardYou cannot sew without these. While sewing, keep your iron warmed to the wool setting, and be prepared to press each seam after you stitch it, depending on the fabric’s ability to handle heat. Never stitch across a seam that hasn’t been pressed. It’s a sure way to make your project look homemade.

NeedlesSewing needles, both hand and machine, are another must-have item. There are many types of needles, and there are separate guidelines that give in-depth information on how to choose the correct one for your sewing project. For the most basic machine-sewing project, choose a universal or ball-point needle for knit fabrics, and a “sharp” for woven fabrics. Choose the size of the needle based on the weight of the fabric. For lightweight fabrics, choose a finer needle (lower numbers); for heavyweight fabrics, choose a thicker needle (larger numbers).

PinsStraight pins range in lengths from 1/2" to 1 7/8". Look for sharp, smooth, rustproof pins that can bend without breaking. Use different types for general sewing, quilting, working with silks or knits.

PincushionPincushions come in a variety of styles. The most popular styles include the familiar red tomato with an emery-filled strawberry, which sharpens and cleans pins and needles; a rectangular, wristband pincushion mounted on a plastic wristband that is perfect for pin-fitting and marking hems; and magnetic “grabber” types that make for easy plop-and-drop pin catching.

Seam GaugeAlso called a sewing gauge, this 6" ruler with a sliding red marker has many uses. Use it to mark hems, buttons and buttonholes as well as design details, such as pleats and tucks.

Seam RipperA curved metal cutting blade used to “rip” stitches or “reverse sew.” One end of the curved blade has a sharp point and the other has a small plastic ball that prevents the ripper from slipping. Use a seam ripper to remove stitches one at a time, slash machine stitched buttonholes, and to pick out loose threads caught in stitching.

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Tape MeasureFlexible fiberglass or fabric measuring tape that is ideal for taking body measurements, measuring patterns and layouts as well as general measuring. Fabric types tend to stretch after prolonged use.

ThimbleMade of metal, rubber, leather or plastic, a thimble is small, protective covering that slips over the index or middle finger. When hand-sewing or quilting, a thimble protects the fingertip from pin pricks and is used to push the needle through multiple layers of fabric.

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Appendix D

Sewing ToolsAs with any profession or hobby, using the right tools can make all the difference in the world and can make the difference between amateur or professional results. Even if you’ve only sewn a few projects and collected some basic sewing tools, it may be time to learn about some of the advanced sewing tools designed to give your project that professional edge. Most sewing projects can be completed without the following tools, but as you improve and fine-tune your skills and develop an affinity for quilting, home decorating or clothing construction, you’ll find these tools indispensable for saving time, increasing accuracy and simplifying tasks.

Cutting ToolsNeedlework Scissors and SnipsSmall, 3"- to 5"-long needlework scissors or snips are indispensable for clipping close to the stitching line or trimming intricate areas of a project. They can be used wherever your large bent-handled shears can’t reach. Snips have spring-loaded handles. Keep a pair alongside the sewing machine, handy to cut stray threads.

Rotary CutterUsed with a self-healing mat and a clear plastic ruler, rotary cutters are ideal for straight cuts in one or more fabric layers. Look for blades that can be easily removed and replaced and a handle that is comfortable. Rotary mats and rulers are made specifically for rotary-blade cutting, and the materials don’t dull rotary blades as other products might. Both the mat and the ruler feature gridlines and angles for cutting accuracy.

Measuring & Altering ToolsGrid BoardUse a large grid board under the fabric and pattern to align the fabric grain while pinning and cutting. A padded grid board allows you to pin into it when stretching or blocking fabric. Some have ironing surfaces that are also helpful for fusing large fabric sections. Consider a rotating grid board if your space is limited. Mats and wide rulers used for rotary cutting are actually modified grid boards used both underneath and on top of the fabric. See “Rotary Cutter” above.

French Curve or Fashion RulerThese rulers have a variety of curves to mimic the body’s curves and are used when altering patterns. It’s helpful for the simplest length adjustment and indispensable when actually changing the style of a garment. Depending on how you turn the ruler and what segment you use, one ruler gives you all the curves necessary to complete pattern lines when altering or drafting patterns.

Marking ToolsFabric Marking PensThe space-age chemicals used to make these clever pens become more high-tech every day. The disappearing ink allows you to mark most projects at the exact location needed — even on the fabric right side — without fear of staining or discoloration. Look for an ink color that is in high contrast to your fabric, and for accuracy select a fine tip. Choose a water-soluble pen for long-term projects, when you want the markings to remain until you remove them with water. Air-soluble pen inks disappear within a few hours and are ideal for fabrics that can’t be washed or dampened. Some air- and water-soluble pen manufacturers caution against exposing marked fabrics to sunlight or the heat of the iron because heat may set the ink permanently. Always test the pen on a scrap of the fabric before using it on your project.

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Sewing ToolsSewing Machine NeedlesSewing needles are designed for the type of fabric, thread and stitches you’re using. Using the right size and type of needle will greatly improve your sewing success. (Tip: A stitching problem, such as skipped stitches or looping or shredding threads, at first may appear to be a problem with the machine when actually it’s a call for a new or better-suited needle.)

BodkinUsed for drawing elastic, cord or ribbon through a fabric casing, bodkins are available in several different styles. The pincer is usually the shortest with teeth at one end designed to clamp down firmly on ribbon or elastic and pull it through a tubular casing. Longer versions have a safety pin style closure at one end, and the slimmest version, designed like a large sewing needle, has a large eye for feeding narrow cord in narrow casings. A bodkin’s ball-point end comes in handy for turning fabric tubes right side out.

Point TurnerA point turner is a hand-held, pointed plastic tool designed to poke into tight corners. For crisp, sharp corners and points, use this tool to push out the corners of collars and cuffs before pressing. The opposite end is flat or rounded; use it to hold open seam allowances while pressing, so you don’t burn your fingers.

Basting TapeMuch faster than hand basting with needle and thread, use narrow, paper backed basting tape to hold zippers, bias tapes and trims in place while stitching.

Fray PreventerA drop of this liquid on the cut edge of a woven fabric will bond the edges and prevent the fabric from raveling. Before using, test the product on a scrap of the actual fabric, or in an inconspicuous area of the project. Allow the test piece to dry thoroughly. Then wash, dry and press it as you would the finished project, to be sure the product doesn’t discolor the fabric.

Pressing ToolsTailor’s HamResembling a ham, this pressing tool is used as a base or a mold when pressing curved or shaped seams. It’s available in several sizes and should be covered on one side in cotton and the other in wool. The ham’s curves are designed to mimic garment curves and are used to set the shape of collars, lapels, sleeve caps and more.

Point Presser & Pounding BlockThe raised points of this wooden tool allow you to press deep into a corner without creasing the surrounding fabric. The base is used as a pounding block, or clapper, to flatten seams.

Needle BoardA flat, flexible board with a bed of short needles placed very close together, a velvet board or needle board is used for pressing napped fabrics, such as velvet and corduroy, without crushing the fabric’s pile. A less expensive, and less-effective, version of a needle board features a canvas backed fabric with a raised pile front that takes the place of the needles.

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Appendix E

Choosing and Using Cutting ToolsFacts and FacetsThe information in this Guideline is designed to help you choose and use the most appropriate cutting tool for the project at hand. Consider quality and end use when shopping for scissors, shears and rotary cutters.

Many fabric stores have display models you may try before buying from stock, while some cutting tools are packaged so you can actually sample them. To test scissors or shears, hold them as you would to cut, and consider how their weight and balance feel in your hand. Check for smoothness inside the handle rings. Then cut a variety of fabrics as the quality tests below suggest. To help ensure future satisfaction, also look for:

• Tempered- or stainless-steel blades. The former has a reputation for quality and strength, the latter for value and being lightweight and rustproof.• Uniform width and angle of the cutting edges.• Smooth cutting from the back of the blades to the points.• Adjustable screw securing the blades. If the blades on scissors work out of alignment; shears with an adjustable screw can be readjusted using the screw to correct the blade alignment. Scissors with a nonadjustable rivet (sometimes molded to look like an adjustable screw) cannot be fixed.• A reasonable warranty.

Care GuidelinesTo use shears to maximum advantage, take long strokes the length of the blades. Never use fabric-cutting scissors on paper or other non-fabric materials. Tie a piece or ribbon around your fabric scissors, and tell your family that the ribbon means fabric only. Or, purchase scissors and shears with different-color handles. Wipe scissors clean with a dry cloth after each use. This is especially important after cutting polyesters and other synthetics; lint from these manmade fibers is abrasive and can dull the blades. Keep the cutting blades sharp. Some stainless steel scissors and shears come with a molded plastic sheath that has a built-in blade sharpener. Forged steel scissors and shears can be sharpened using a sharpening stone. Both may be sharpened using a professional-style electric sharpener. Or they may be sent to a professional sharpening service or back to the manufacturer. Occasionally oil the pivot screw with a tiny drop of sewing machine oil. Open and close the blades a few times, then wipe the blades with a soft cloth. Don’t force a cut—this can deform the blades or spread them permanently. Store your scissors or shears in a box or pouch. Cutting into a straight pin or needle will permanently damage scissors. (Tip: Keep small scissors or thread snips handy by tying them to a length of ribbon and wearing them like a necklace as you sew.)

Cutting Tool Definitions & UsesMany cutting tools are available for “lefties” (lefthanders); ask your dealer about special ordering left-handed scissors if they aren’t in stock; some shears are available with spring-action handles — often preferred by those plagued by arthritis and repetitive strain injuries. Be sure your cutting table is an appropriate height for you and your cutting task.

Bent-handled shearsThis type of cutting shear features an angled lower blade. This keeps the blade flush with the table surface while cutting, affording greater accuracy. Popular lengths are 7" to 10". These also are available with micro-serrated blades for more precise cutting of thin, slick fabrics and in lightweight models for making large cutting jobs more comfortable on all but the heaviest fabrics.Quality test: Cut to the tip through four layers of mid-weight fabric.

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General-purpose shearsThese will save your sewing shears and scissors from misuse. Use to cut paper, trim leather, snip twine and for other general household textiles. Quality test: Cut through two layers of cardboard.

Sewing scissors(Also called trimmers or tailor’s scissors) come in a wide range of lengths, with 5" to 7"most often recommended. These tools feature finely tapered blades with one pointed and one rounded tip; the blunt tip prevents fabric snagging when trimming and grading seams. Quality test: Cut through two layers of mid-weight fabric. Clip notches with the tip.

Embroidery scissorsThese are scissors with thin, 3 1/2"- to 5"-long blades, are ideal for clipping and notching, trimming fabric from delicate appliqués and embroidery, and snipping thread tails. Many are reproductions of antiques with figurative handles, decorative scrollwork and various metallic finishes, making them as beautiful as they are useful. Quality Test: Cut a five-pointed star from sheer fabric.

Appliqué scissorsThese are especially designed for close trimming while protecting fabric from damage. The“duckbill” blade allows the scissors to glide between layers of fabric. The curved handles make it easy to trim appliqués and thread when fabric is stretched in an embroidery hoop. Quality Test: Trim fabric close to edge stitching.

Machine embroidery scissorsThese feature unique handles curved to one side to allow comfortable, accurate trimming of loose threads on machine embroidery. Quality test: Clip threads from work in a machine embroidery hoop.

Thread nippers and clippersThese are spring-action clippers—with or without a finger loop—featuring very short blades for cutting thread tails and clipping seams quickly. Quality test: Clip a small length of thread or yarn. Spring-back action should be brisk.

Pinking shearsThese shears have saw-tooth blades. They are used to add a ravel-resistant seam finish to loosely woven fabric, automatically notching and reducing bulk in seams and creating a decorative finish on fabrics that don’t ravel. Lengths range from 7" to 10 1/2". Also available are light-weight models, as well as scalloping shears for a more rounded effect. Quality test: Cut from the second tooth to the tip, close to the edge of both light-weight and heavy-weight fabrics. Check for an uneven “pinked” pattern. A deeper cut will stop the raveling better.

Buttonhole scissors This scissor has a special adjustable screw to secure it when partially open. This open position translates to a precise cutting length (usually between 1/2" and 1 1/4") that prevents cutting through the stitches at the buttonhole end. Quality test: Adjust the screw to correlate to a buttonhole length and mark that length on a double layer of test fabric. Test on both light- and heavy-weight fabric for ease and precision.

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Appendix F

Machine Spacing

The diagram shows recommended distances around sewing machines on a side bench. The diagram shows a corner bench but the principles can be applied to other situations, such as freestanding tables. The shaded area shows an overlap of 500mm, which is applicable if benching is back to back (for example, in a peninsular arrangement). The 800mm dimension shows the recommended distance from the centre of a sewing machine placed at the end of a run of benching to the end of the bench.

* (Distance between last sewing machine and end of run of benching)

 

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Appendix GRoom Design and Layout

The textiles room shown here is a ‘clean’ area used for a variety of fabric-based design and making activities. Pupils may use sewing and knitting machines, work with fabrics by hand and test and analyze fabrics. Computer-controlled machines give pupils the opportunity to design and make products with CAD/CAM equipment. 

Central services allow sewing machines to be used anywhere There is a specific sewing machine area (shown on pivoting storage units) along

perimeter  At least one table is adjustable for wheelchair use; fixed benching at print & textile Wheeled display cabinet allows teacher to talk about displays as part of presentation  Gathering area around electronic whiteboard and table allows for whole-class

demonstrations, discussions and presentations Loose tables in centre of room can be gathered together for fabric cutting, etc. or

rearranged into groups  Two table heights allow for different activities; A variety of 2D and 3D displays are

assumed wherever possible, including a fabric display 

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Appendix H

Key Planning Principles

1. The materials-preparation room is positioned for the convenient delivery of materials from outside, and to facilitate technicians’ access to workshops.

2. The food-preparation room is immediately adjacent to the food-technology spaces, for the technician’s convenience and for reasons of hygiene.

3. The shared ICT and design area is centrally located, easily accessible to all pupils and visible from surrounding spaces.

4. Related departments such as science or art are nearby, maximizing opportunities for sharing equipment.

5. The shared CAD/CAM facility (if provided in this way) is located for easy access by all pupils and staff in the suite.

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Websites and Resource List

Audiovisual Aids

Incident prevention and investigation videos available through Utah Safety Council athttp://www.utahsafetycouncil.org/Vidlib/cat05-Inc%20Prevent%20Investigate.html

Community and Professional (Safety) Contacts and Resources

Contact your department head, school administrators and local school board district (depending on the school in which you teach) for specific instructional components, safety policies and procedures (such as accidental investigations and body protection requirements) involving technology lab education.

Canadian Center for Occupational Health and Safety’s direct link http://www.ccohs.ca/

CCOHS also offers a new gateway to workplace safety for youth in conjunction with Job SafeCanada through the following site http://job-one.ccohs.ca/

Education Act. (Regulation 298, S20) for Duties of Teachers in which areas for duty of care are identified in relation to safe facilities, equipment, risk, supervision, first aid and medical accessibility, and professional development. Full document is available for download athttp://www.e-laws.gov.on.ca/DBLaws/Statutes/English/90e02_e.htm

Health Canada for workplace health and public safety programming can be contacted on the World Wide Web at http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/hecs-sesc/whpsp/index.htm

North American Occupational Safety and Health can be contacted at http://www.naosh.org

Ontario Ministry of Education and Training (1999). The Ontario curriculum, grades 9 and 10: Social sciences and the humanities. Ottawa: Queen’s Printer for Ontario.

Ontario Ministry of Education and Training (2000). The Ontario curriculum, grades 11 and 12: Social sciences and humanities. Ottawa: Queen’s Printer for Ontario

Ontario Teachers College. (1999). Standards of Practice for the Teaching Profession. Web site contact at http://www.oct.on.ca

OSSTF. (1998). Handbook for Health and Safety Officers in Bargaining units and Districts. Access through the web site http://www.osstf.on.ca

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Provincial health and safety associations:

Ministry of Labour Health and Safety on the Job for Ontario’s Young Workers can be contacted at http://www.worksmartontario.gov.on.ca/scripts/default.aspEducation Safety Association of Ontario can be contacted at http://www.esao.on.ca

Occupational Health and Safety Act (1990) for specific regulations for the teacher as employer at http://www.e-laws.gov.on.ca/DBLaws/Statutes/English/90o01_e.htm

WHMIS for more information regarding Workplace Hazardous Materials Information System visit http://www.whmis.net

Equipment and Supplies

The Home Sewing Association for general information and guidelines at http://www.sewing.org Bernina USA Home Page (select “Sewing Studio” and then “Learning Center”) for beginner

sewing skills http://www.berninausa.com/home.jsp

Games

Tools and Equipment On-line Quiz for students at http://www.learners.org.uk/ssf/intro.htmThe Sewing Machine On-line Quiz for students at http://www.learners.org.uk/ssf/intro.htm

Journals

CCOHS provides the following database link to current literature regarding health and safetyhttp://www.cchst.ca/products/databases/oshline/article.html

NOSHES (Newsletter on Occupational Safety & Health Educational Support), Winter/Spring, 2004- 2005 in PDF format at http://www.losh.ucla.edu/youth/pdf/newsletter-winter05.pdf

Poetry

Maso, T. (2002). I Am The Educator from http://unionsong.com/maso/I_am_the_educator.html

Merrell, D. I Choose to Look The Other Way from http://local223uwua.org/safety/poem1.htm

Merrell, D. It’s Up to Me from http://local223uwua.org/safety/poem2.htm

Posters

The following sites have general workplace health and safety posters available for order:

http://www.esao.on.ca

http://www.geocities.com/ocesafetyposter

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Project Ideas

No-sew T-shirt Project at http://www.sewing.org/enthusiast/html/et_no_sew_create_a_tee.html

Charitable (global) sewing projects at http://www.sewing.org/enthusiast/html/e_charitysew.html Blankets and/or Pajamas for Triage, contact Linda Lo Re at The Hospital for Sick Children, 555

University Avenue, Toronto, ON, M5G 1X8 or email at pjsforpreemies@yahoo.ca

Coconut Gear, R.O. Box 441, Medford, MN, 55049. Telephone: (507) 451 1000

Sew Kits by Lida, Inc., R.O. Box 500, Harleton, TX, 75651. Telephone: 1 800 882 5487

To Sew Inc., P. O. Box 974, Malibu, CA, 90265. Telephone: 1 800 824 5278

http://www.pineappleappeal.com

http://www.stanwoodkits.com

http://www.haan.com

http://www.lamasewingkits.com

Simplicity Pattern Company at http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=shipBuyInfoNonUS.html

McCall, Butterick, Vogue Patterns at http://www.mccall.com/

Neue Mode and Burda (German Pattern companies), and American Kwik Sew patterns are available for order at http://www.thesewingplace.com/index.asp

Serger project – teen beach bag at http://www.sewing.org/enthusiast/html/et_beachbag.html

Songs

Hurlburt, D. Jim Grahame Song. Lyrics and story behind the song available on UnionSongs website at http://unionsong.com/u321.html

Warner, J. (1997). Mark Allen. Music, lyrics, story behind this song is available on UnionSongswebsite at http://unionsong.com/u035.html

Teaching and Training Kits

Live Safe! Work Smart! provides a gateway to health and safety considerations and instructional resources designed for teachers. Visit there site at http://www.livesafeworksmart.net/english/index.htm

Ontario Ministry of Education and Training (2003) Live Safe! Work Smart! Kit for technological studies and safety. There is also an extended, nine page resource list entitled, Health and Safety Resources to Support Health and Safety Expectations in the Ontario Secondary

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School Curriculum, and is available in PDF file at http://www.octe.on.ca/Techsafety_lsws.pdf

CCOHS also offers specialized safety education and training for a variety of contexts that are applicable to fashion lab setting. For professional development possibilities visit their link at http://www.aim4safety.com/

Texts

Fashion18 magazine also has an on-line web site through http://www.fashion18.com/

Reader’s Digest Association. (1992). Complete guide to sewing (17th ed.). Pleasantville, New York: Reader’s Digest.

Soto, A. (2001). Simply the best sewing book. New York, New York: Simplicity Pattern Co.

Singer (1984). Sewing essentials. Minnetonka, Minnesota: Cy DeCosse Inc.

Weber, J. (1990) Clothing: Fashion, fabrics, and construction. Peoria, IL: Glencoe andMcGraw-Hill.

Westfall, M. (2002). Successful sewing. Tinley Park, IL: The Goodheart-Willcox.

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