ready to share: fashion and the commons by johanna blakley

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More than any other industry, fashion treats most of its creative output as a commons - shared resources that can be freely reused, recreated and recombined. How does the fashion industry manage to thrive with virtually no copyright protection?

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Page 1: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Title

Page 2: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Intellectual property in the fashion industry

Page 3: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Trademark protection

Page 4: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Trademark as design

Page 5: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley
Page 6: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Apparel design is too utilitarian to qualify for copyright

protection

Page 7: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Too utilitarian?

Page 8: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

The triumph of the creative commons

Page 9: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

An open creative process

Page 10: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Copying & trends

Page 11: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Trendsetters

Page 12: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Trend spotters

Page 13: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

The street

Page 14: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Fast fashion

Page 15: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

The fashion industry is thriving

• Annual sales in the U.S. fashion industry increased from $130 billion to over $214 in the past decade

• Americans purchase over $13.8 billion worth of clothing ONLINE each year

Page 16: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Why hasn’t copying destroyed the

fashion industry?

Page 17: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

The virtues of copying

• Democratization of fashion

• Faster establishment of global trends

• Induced obsolescence

• Acceleration in creative innovation

Page 18: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Innovative knock-offs

“Jelly Kelly”

Miu Miu Knock-off

Page 19: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Effects on the creative process

Page 20: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Making something too difficult to copy

Page 21: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Incentives to not copy

Page 22: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Fashion designers = comedians?

Page 23: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Heterogeneous not homogenous

Page 24: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Self-copying

Page 25: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Fashion’s creative commons

Page 26: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

International Comparisons

• Is the fashion industry’s creative commons unique to the U.S.?

Page 27: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Japan

• Japanese Design Law covers apparel, but the novelty standard is extremely high.

Page 28: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

European Union

• Community design system: apparel is protected, with a less stringent novelty standard than Japan. But very few designers register their garments or take their cases to court. Why?

Page 29: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

How do we establish standards for “novelty?”

In the EU, the novelty standard is too low.

Page 30: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Cuisine

Page 31: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Automobiles

Page 32: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Furniture

Page 33: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Magic Tricks

Page 34: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Hairstyles

Page 35: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Open source software

Page 36: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Computer databases

Page 37: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Tattoos

Page 38: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Comedy

Page 39: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Fireworks

Page 40: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Games

Page 41: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Perfume

Page 42: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

In the U.S., fashion isn’t the only thriving low-IP industry

Page 43: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

What can commons-based industries teach us?

Page 44: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Between idea and expression

Page 45: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Dueling forces in intellectual property

Page 46: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

Suggestions for research

• Identify best practices

• Look at the bottom line

• Foster multidisciplinary research

• Protect low-IP industries from protection

Page 47: Ready to Share: Fashion and the Commons by Johanna Blakley

The End