January 01, 2015

Volume 2, Issue 1

GRW Newsletter “HAPPY NEW YEAR 2015 FROM GRW”

SKYPE:

If you communicate

With a GRW client

on SKYPE then

please add

grwglobal to the

conversation

whether GRW is

open or not or

copy the whole

skype

conversation and

email to GRW

THANK YOU

or your point of

interest here.

“If you fail to

plan, you are

planning to fail!”

― Benjamin

Franklin

Give us a call at: 01-619-399-7714 USA

Dear Sir, This is to acknowledge the receipt of the December News Letter. I found it very educational and really broadening my horizon. It also has the prospect of offering business opportunities for agencies. I Will endeavour to take advantage of the openings. Regards GRW agency Ghana

Dear Sir, I confirmed that I have received and read the December 2014 GRW

AGENCY COMMENTS:

WARNING TO FIVE GRW AGENCIES:

By way of this article we

are giving warning to five

un-named GRW agencies

that termination of your

GRW agency is about to

happen. Please take this

seriously if you wish to

continue as the GRW

agency. Reason: You ---

1. Do not log in a

minimum of once

a week as per

agency contract

rules

2. Do not send in

monthly reports

by the fifth of

every month and

Newsletter. Thanks for having this newsletter that it will help to GRW agencies especially for me as a beginner regarding this work. MORE POWER. Philippines GRW agency

Dear Mr. Ray Porter,

Thank you as always for

your continuous support and inspiration. Your monthly

newsletters are always filled

with new information,

reminders, advises,

encouragements and most importantly motivational

highlights. I sincerely appreciate the opportunity to

read your monthly

newsletter as it picks me up with a heavy dose of energy

with renewal and robust

inspiration in the continuous efforts to promote GRW

Maryland, USA. Thank you again for your

time, effort and selflessness

in sharing such valuable support with your monthly

newspaper. May the Allah bless you and

your family

GRW AGENCY MARYLAND

Thank you as always for your continuous support

and inspiration. Your

monthly newsletters are always filled with new

information, reminders,

advises, encouragements and most importantly

motivational highlights. I

sincerely appreciate the

opportunity to read your monthly newsletter as it

picks me up with a heavy

dose of energy with renewal and robust

inspiration in the

continuous efforts to promote GRW Maryland,

USA.

Thank you again for your

time, effort and

selflessness in sharing

such valuable support with your monthly

newspaper.

May the Allah bless you and your family with

good health, peace and

prosperity GRW AGENCY MARYLAND USA

our Agency Affairs

Manager

repeatedly is

forced to email

you asking where

is your monthly

report.

3. Do not answer

emails that we

send you

4. Show us no

evidence of your

setting up a

marketing plan for

your country.

5. Rarely if at all ask

us for product

quotes from

www.grwglobal.co

m for your

country.

6. Rarely if at all

bring any direct

producer product

for our promotion

to our clients

Please be forewarned that

you are on the verge of

being terminated as a GRW

agency and a new one

assigned for your country.

Thank you to all the other

GRW agencies that do

follow all the GRW

agency contract rules.

people interested in

purchasing a product or in

requesting your service.

JANUARY GRW NEWSLETER 2015 Page 2 of 28

Every GRW agency in

keeping with the continuity of

the GRW name should always

put “GRW Agency (Country

Name)” after your name on

emails to GRW clients

Please read the suggested

methods to market the 4N

Houses, at end of this article.

SAY GOODBYE TO

BRICK AND CONCRETE

4NATURE HOUSES ARE EASY – FAST – SAFE – ECONOMICAL MODULAR DESIGN – A HOUSE CAN BE ERECTED WITHOUT HEAVY MACHINERY. There is extremely short

building time. You can

4N HOUSING FEATURE:

& ecologically friendly buildings at very affordable prices, for both rural and urban developing areas. The construction time using 4N technology is reduced by over 10 times compared to conventional building methods like brick and concrete.

4N HOUSING ARTICLE CONTINUED FROM ABOVE.

--customized to suit your needs. 4N has complete solutions for institutions with our products being modular, innovative and sustainable. It can be an individual

4N HOUSING ARTICLE CONTINUED FROM ABOVE

move in matter of days.

4N is Resistant to natural

disasters, earthquakes,

storms, fire, flood, insects

and termites.

They are very affordable.

You save significantly on your building costs. 4Nature has indigenously

innovated modular building concepts based on sandwiched technology, elements made of solid wood, high density Mg0 building boards, insulation wool & other components. The elements allow construction of safe, durable (continue below)

and ecologically friendly buildings at very affordable prices, for both rural and urban developing areas. The construction time using 4N technology is reduced by over 10 times compared to conventional building methods like brick & concrete.

4Nature has indigenously innovated modular building concepts based on sandwiched technology elements made of solid wood, high density MgO building boards, insulation wool,

The 4Nature has ready made offerings of building material & solutions for real estate developers, individual buyers of homes , healthcare industry , hotels & the resorts industry. 4Nature specializes in building solutions for hurricane , earthquakes, & other

disaster hit areas. 4N structures are certified to withstand earthquake tremors up to 8.9 on the Richter scale & wind speeds up to 160 km per hour. SOLUTIONS: Modular element structures (continue below)

Modular element structures

. 4Nature has readymade offerings of building material & solutions for Real estate developers, individual buyers

planning to build a home or institutions like mining companies, hospitals, schools, offices, scouting around for structures to manage their requirements.

Also for when hotels & tourism companies,investors & real estate developers need real-time solutions.

Continue on page 7

real-time solutions

4Nature offers technical expertise based on

t

JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 3 of 28

This is the first newsletter

for 2015 from GRW. I am

going to talk in firm

language as it is

imperative that we filter out

the GRW agencies that do

not follow the most simple

GRW rules and protocols.

But first I want to state we

are so blessed to have so

many sincere and

dedicated and loyal and

honest GRW agencies

across the world. I

personally, and all GRW

management are so

appreciative and proud to

have you in our Union of

GRW Agencies

Worldwide. In the

J.L. BRADLEY / C.E.O.

to the Agency Quotation

Form. Please request it

from GRW. I want to

remind everyone that the

Producer Section of the

form should be filled out

properly and your name

should not be put in that

section as it is for the

producer that you are

getting the product from

for resale to GRW clients.

The producer information

is kept in your file and not

given to others.

You will find special

articles on COTTON

TWILL & 4N HOUSING in

J.L. Bradley Article continued from above

SPECIAL PRODUCT:

GREECE: HONEY with

edible gold leaf 24 ct.in it.

Email: grwglobal@aol.com or jbradley@grwglobal.com for more information

last few weeks we have

terminated several GRW

agencies and assigned

new ones in those

countries. We gave those

terminated agencies every

opportunity to correct their

violation of the GRW

agency contract rules.

They could not follow

simply rules of sending in

their monthly report by the

fifth of every month and by

logging in to the private

agency site

www.grwagency.com a

minimum of once a week.

How hard is it to do that?

Well, those agencies

terminated could or would

not do it and now we have

new agencies in those

countries.

Cement is needed for

construction across the

world. Rice is one of the

top edible products in the

world. GRW wants to see

more requests from it’s

GRW agencies for these

products. You are missing

an opportunity for making

sales by not developing a

marketing plan and

finding buyers for these

products. You can find

“info” on the GRW public

website . Agency

Quotation Form:: We

have some slight

revision— continue below

SIGNING YOUR NAME

AS GRW AGENCY …. ON

YOUR EMAILS DEALING

WITH GRW BUSINESS

GRW IN AND OUT

PROGRAM

If someone does not reply

to emails, or send in

monthly reports or log in

then no monthly

newsletters will go to

them.

The purpose of a

newsletter is to provide

specialized information to

a targeted audience.

Newsletters can be a great

way to market your

product or service, and

also can create credibility

and build your

organization’s identity

among peers, members,

employees, or

vendoSHOrs.

First, determine the

audience of the newsletter.

This could be anyone who

this January 2015

newsletter. It is our desire

that you investigate the

prospects of buyers in

your country for these

products. You want to

make money then this is

one way to do it, by

following thru on these

products for your buyers

in your country.

Language Converter:

You are already aware

that we have a language

coverter to convert all of

our web sites to just about

any language in the world.

You click the language on

the home page and it

changes the whole web

site to your language. You

can use this to have your

clients review the web site

in their own language. It

could very well help you

make sales in your

country.

We cannot over

emphasize your following

the GRW In and Out

program

A VERY HAPPY NEW

YEAR 2015 TO YOU.

You can also research

articles or find “filler”

articles by accessing the

World Wide Web. You can

write about a variety of

topics, but try to keep your

k or graphic.

JANUARY GRW NEWSLETER 2015 Page 4 of 28

Cotton Twill Article by Tanveer Ansari

“Do not let your fire go out,

spark by irreplaceable spark,

in the hopeless swamps of the

not-quite, the not-yet, and the

not-at-all.

Do not let the hero in your soul

perish in lonely frustration, for

the life you deserved and have never

been able to reach. The world you desire

can be won. It exists. It is real.

It is possible. It is YOURS”

--Ayn Rand

FACTS – PAKISTAN COTTON TEXTILES

On August 14, 1947 when

Pakistan got its

independence

from the British

Rulers and from

the Indian

Cotton Twill Feature

In international market, over

90% cotton of

coarse count is

consumed, while

fine counts (80

counts and

above) is used

for particular

been the only industry that has

generated huge

employment for

both skilled and

unskilled labor.

The textile industry

continues to be

the second

largest

employment

Cotton Twill continued from above

Cotton Twill continued from above

.”

The GRW newsletters are for

GRW agencies only and not

for providing to your

clients.You can copy certain

data out of it if you wish and

provide to your clients.

Rulers, Pakistan

got agricultural

fields, soil of the

fields was

appropriate for

the cotton crop

from which over

90% coarse

count cotton

(from 5 to 30

counts) could be

produced,

whereas Indian

soil was

appropriate to

produce fine

count cotton

(100 counts and

above).

Continue Below

In international

market, over

90% cotton of

coarse count is

consumed, while fine counts (80

counts and

above) is used

for particular

cotton textiles,

and the

consumption of

which is less

than 10% of the

world’s

requirements.

The Textile

industry is the

largest

manufacturing

industy

manufacturing

industry in

Pakistan. It has

traditionally,

after

agriculture,been

the only industry

that has

generated huge

employment for

both skilled and

unskilled labor.

The textile industry

continues to be

the second

cotton textiles,

and the

consumption of

which is less

than 10% of the

world’s

requirements.

The Textile industry is the

largest

manufacturing

industy

manufacturing

industry in

Pakistan. It has

traditionally,

after agriculture,

Continue Below

been the only industry that has

generated huge

employment for

both skilled and

unskilled labor.

generating

sector.

Pakistan is the 8th largest

exporter of

textile products

in Asia.

This sector contributes 8.5%

to the GDP.

The Textile

sector provides

employment to

about 15 million

people or

roughly 30% of

the 49 million

workforce of the

country.

Pakistan is the 4th largest

producer of

cotton in the

world.

Continue on Page 12

Pakistan is the third largest

spinning

capacity in Asia

after China and

India and

JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 5 of 28

I WANT TO SAY HAPPY

NEW YEAR 2015 TO ALL

OF OUR GRW

AGENCIES.

I know it was stated in the

December 2014

newsletter that certain

things would be in this

January 2015 newsletter.

GREECE ARTICLE:

Unfortunately we could

not do the Greece article

this month and it is our

plan for it to be in the

February 2015 issue.

KIRIBATI SOLAR

GENERATOR

This will be in the

February 2015 issue.

RAY PORTER/ PRESIDENT

I know all GRW agencies

studied the product section

of the December 2014

newsletter to see which

items you could promote in

your country.

There were three GRW

agencies that did not

confirm to me as I asked

for all to do, that they

received and read the

December 2014

newsletter. Those

agencies have their files

on our Agency Committee

Manager’s desk for review.

I have a strong feeling we

will be seeing several

more new GRW agencies

Ray Porter continued from above:

“Cherish your vision and your dream as they are the children of your soul, the blueprints of your ultimate achievements” .----Napoleon Hill, American author

PLEASE READ THE BELOW ATTENTIVELY & CLOSELY

JESSE CHAVEZ

ARTICLE

This too will be in

February 2015 newsletter.

In this January 2015

newsletter you have two

product articles.

One is on the 4N Housing

and the other one is on

Cotton Twill from

Pakistan.

We send these articles to

you with the goal of your

going out and developing

a marketing plan and

promoting them thru out

the whole country to

various potential buyers.

If you read the articles and

you do not promote them,

then obviously you will not

receive any orders for

them.

We know you will take an

active approach and study

the information on them,

develop a marketing plan

and contact the potential

clients for the products.

I notice a lot of new GRW

agencies coming on

board. Our CEO was

serious about clearing out

the GRW agencies that

did not follow GRW

contract protocols and

assigning new motivated

GRW agencies in those

countries.. (continue

below)

Continue below

c

newsletter is to provide

specialized information to

a targeted audience.

Newsletters can be a

great way to market your

product or service, and

also can create credibility

and build your

organization’s identity

among peers, members,

employees, or vendors.

First, determine the

audience of the

newsletter. This could be

anyone who might benefit

from the information it

contains, for example,

employees or people

interested in purchasing a

product or in requesting

your service.

You can compile a mailing

list from business reply

cards, customer

information sheets,

business cards collected

soon in those countries.

We use to get so many

that wanted us to convert

things on our websites

into Spanish, or Arabic, or

French or some other

language so they could

give it to their clients. Now

you can get it yourself off

our websites in just about

any language. Or you

could give the website

address to your clients to

read it themselves. You

should have no fear of

giving your clients our

web sites as you have the

exclusive contract of GRW

agency for your country

subject to the protocols of

the GRW agency contract.

MENTORING PROGRAM:

I am thankful that so many

of you finished the four

step Mentoring program

with me and gave me

weekly updates. There are

a few who did not finish

the program and they

(continue to page 6)

contents of the story and

Ray Porter / President .

PAGE 6

GRW KNOWS THAT EACH OF YOU WILL READ THE DATA ON THE 4N HOUSING AND THE COTTON TWILL. WE KNOW YOU WILL GIVE REAL CAREFUL THOUGHT TO HOW THESE CAN BE MARKETED IN YOUR COUNTRY. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE ANY PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE WITH THESE PRODUCTS, THEN WE KNOW YOU WILL GO BACK TO THE MARKETING PLAN ARTICLE MR ANSARI WROTE IN ONE OF THE PREVIOUS GRW NEWSLETTERS, AND THAT YOU WILL DO THE RESEARCH NECESSARY TO FIND BUYERS FOR THESE PRODUCTS IN YOUR COUNTRY. YOU HAVE TO PLAN YOUR WORK AND WORK YOUR PLAN. THESE NEWSLETTERS ARE HERE TO HELP YOU WITH PRODUCTS TO PROMOTE IN YOUR COUNTRY AND WITH IDEAS TO UTILIZE TO MAKE SALES, AND GIVE YOU EVERY OPPORTUNITY FOR SUCCESS.

If you are in the process of

closing a sale of a product

or service of GRW then it

is very important you read

all the data on the private

GRW agency web site to

know the GRW Way on

closing procedures to

follow. Things like the

RAY PORTER /

CONTIUED

are no longer with us, and

the ones that did not

complete the Mentoring

Program that are still with

us are under watchful eye.

GRW IN AND OUT

PROGRAM:

We say it so often, but

What is the GRW Way? Ray Porter Article continued from above

Ray Porter Continued:

the Contact Us button on

the private site. Please

remember to put your

country name on the

Contact Us button, your

Changes to Contact Us on private agency site www.grwagency.com

PHONE:

(619) 399-7714 USA

E-MAIL: From Africa:

jbradley@grwglobal.com Everywhere Else:

grwglobal@aol.com President:

grwusa@aol.com Monthly Reports:

grwmonthlyreports@grwglobal.com

Public :

www.grwglobal.com

Private:

www.grwagency.com

that he was making sure

that only the GRW

agencies that were

honest, loyal, dedicated,

motivated and that

followed all GRW agency

rules and protocols will

remain in our Union of

GRW Agencies

Worldwide.

Continue below

In a few words, it should

accurately represent the

contents of the story and

draw readers into the

story. Develop the

headline before you write

the story. This way, the

headline will help you

keep the story focused.

Examples of possible

headlines include Product

Wins Industry Award, New

Product Can Save You

Time, Membership Drive

Exceeds Goals, and New

Office Opens Near You.

One benefit of using your

newsletter as a

promotional tool is that

you can reuse content

from other marketing

materials, such as press

releases and market

studies.

While your main goal of

distributing a newsletter

might be to sell your

product or service, the key

to a successful newsletter

is making it useful to your

readers.

again there are some

agencies that concentrate

on only what they can sell

out of their country and do

nothing on promoting

GRW product from

www.grwglobal.com into

their country. These

GRW agencies will not be

with us for long as our

CEO made a promise to

his father, (our founder)

GRW name to be on the

Sales Contract and our

website address even if

the product is being sold

direct to the GRW buyer

by the producer. There

are other things involving

sales or purchasing

procedure on our private

agency site and if you

have not done so already,

then we recommend you

read them all so you know

the proper GRW WAY.

In 2015 you will start

noticing changes on

(continue below)

While your main goal of

distributing a newsletter

might be to sell your

product or service, the key

to a successful newsletter

is making it useful to your

readers.

A great way to add useful

content to your newsletter

is to develop and write

your own articles, or to

include a calendar of

upcoming events or a

special offer that promotes

a new product.

You can also research

articles or find “filler”

articles by accessing the

World Wide Web. You can

write about a variety of

topics, but try to keep your

articles short.

email address and click

“Send” so it will go in your

file showing the weekly

log in as per the agency

contract rules.

I want you all to know

that we at GRW Main

appreciate all of you

GRW agencies greatly

and we ask the

Almighty to watch over

and bless you

.greatly.

Think about your article

and ask yourself if the

picture supports or

enhances the message

you’re trying to convey.

Avoid selecting images

that appear to be out of

context.

Microsoft includes

thousands of clip art

images that you can

choose and import into

your newsletter. There are

also several tools you can

use to draw shapes and

symbols.

Happy 2015

to all of you

Page 7 Continued from Page 2 4N Housing 4N modular structures are an easy,fast and economical option. 4Nature’s turnaround time for installation is almost magical ! ! !

AFFORDABLE & ECOLOGICAL HOUSING

Example floor plans

GRW AGENCIES CAN CONTACT GRW for prices, and designs, however 4N can work also according to clients requests/diagrams

ADDITIONAL / TRANSPORT / LOGISTICS:

4Nature is absolutely a natural product and easy to be recycled, hence better environment. Very easy to transport 4Nature house 18sqm 10 in 40 foot HC ctr 4Nature house 37sqm 6 in 40 foot HC ctr 4Nature house 55sqm 5 in 40 foot HC ctr 4Nature house 73sqm 2 in 40 foot HC ctr 4Nature house 92 sqm 1 ½ in 40 foot HC ctr this is saving on the Co2 production of transports Please note: we can do also houses in 2 Floors. Using the boards of 4NATURE in your next project, you will realize advantages of 4NATURE. Also you will meet the demand of keeping environment as protected as possible, also meet the standards for recycling.

PLEASE CONTINUE TO PAGE 8

Page 8

Please continue to the next page

JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 9 of 28

Page 10 PRODUCTION

4Nature production facility is strategically located in the port of Hamina, Finland, with direct access to trains trucks and ships. Our factory is located in the special manufacturing zone to facilitate easy exports & imports. 4N’s current production capacity is 50 000 sq meter per month scalable to 500 000 sq meter per month.

LOGISTICS 4Nature logistics is best in the business. We work with a consortium of logistics service providers thus covering all the major & minor ports across the globe. We have developed an innovative packaging technique to transport & ship our homes in semi knocked condition, anywhere in the world. Given the fact that we are located on the harbour of Valko-Finland, our logistical operations are efficient & safe & in compliance with global safety standards.

ASSEMBLY AT SITE. 4Nature homes are manufactured as elements in the factories & are assembled at the customer site. This is the technology that has revolutionized the speed of construction many folds compared to conventional brick & concrete. Assembly onsite also offers advantages such as: > A clean & safe construction environment, > High degree of precision in terms of engineering & design > On an average 10 times faster

JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 11 of 28

XXXXX XXXXX

HOW TO MARKET 4N HOUSES IN

YOUR COUNTRY:

If you market the 4N houses properly

and take this project seriously, we

guarantee you a very good profit

margin in a very short period of time.

We are saying all this, because our

factory has a capacity to produce from

50,000 square m scalable to 500,000

square m per month and installation is

MAGICAL!

You can promote the 4N houses to:

Individuals who are planning to build

their new home,

Institutions like Mining companies,

Hospitals, Clinics, Offices, Schools,

Hotels, Holiday complex, Real Estate

investors, Contactors, Army buildings

etc

Please note that we have ready

solutions for individual homes, farm

houses, schools and even floating

houses, however we are flexible and

produce our 4N houses as per client’s

designs.

You are one step away from starting

something fruitful for your Company,

so please do not hesitate to contact us

for more details

NOW IT IS UP TO YOU GRW AGENCIES TO SEE THE OPPORTUNITY IN MARKETING THE 4N HOUSING IN EVERY AREA OF YOUR COUNTRY. WE ARE COUNTING ON YOUR PROMOTING THIS PRODUCT AND ALSO THE COTTON TWILL PRODUCTS MENTIONED IN THIS NEWSLETTER TOO.

THIS CONCLUDES THE 4N HOUSING ARTICLE

Page 12 COTTON TWILL CONTINUED FROM PAGE 4

Pakistan is the third largest spinning capacity in Asia after China and India and contributes

5% to the global spinning capacity.

At present, there are 1,221 ginning units, 442

spinning units, 124 large spinning units and

425 small units which produce textile

products.

The Textile Industry is dominated by Punjab Province.

3% of USA imports of clothing and other form of textiles is covered by Pakistan.

Textile exports in 1999 were $5.2 billion and rose to become $10.5 billion by 2007.

Textile exports managed to increase at a very

decent growth of 16% in 2006. In the period

July 2007 – June 2008, textile exports were

US$10.62 billion.

Textile manufacturing Industry is based on the

conversion of three types of fiber into yarn then

fabric, then textiles. These are then fabricated into

cloths or other artifacts. Cotton remains the most

important natural fiber, so is treated in depth. There

are many variable processes available at the spinning

and fabric-forming stages coupled with the

complexities of the finishing and colouration

processes to the production of a wide ranges of

products. There remains a large industry that uses

hand techniques to achieve the same results.

Processing of cotton

Cotton Manufacturing Processes

Bale Breaker

Blowing Room

Willowing

Breaker Scutcher

Batting

Finishing

Scutcher Lapping

Carding

Carding Room

Silver Lap

Combing

Drawing

Slubbing

Intermediate

Roving

Fine Roving

Mule Spinning - Ring Spinning

Spinning

Reeling

Doubling

Winding

Bundling

Bleaching

Weaving shed

Winding

Beaming

Cabling

Warping

Gassing

JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 13 of 28

Sizing/Slashing/

Dressing

Spooling

Weaving

Cloth

Yarn (Cheese)- -

Bundle Sewing Thread

Cotton is the world's most important natural fiber. In

the year 2007, the global yield was 25 million tons

from 35 million hectares cultivated in more than 50

countries.

There are six stages as below:

Cultivating and harvesting

Cotton is grown anywhere with long, hot dry summers with plenty of sunshine and low humidity. Indian cotton, gossypium arboreum, is finer but the staple is only suitable for hand processing. American cotton, gossypium hirsutum, produces the longer staple needed for machine production. Planting is from September to mid November and the crop is harvested between March and June. The cotton balls are harvested by stripper harvesters and spindle pickers, that remove the entire ball from the plant. The cotton ball is the seed pod of the cotton plant, attached to each of the thousands of seeds are fibres about 2.5 cm long. Ginning

The seed cotton goes in to a Cotton Ginning.

The cotton gin separates seeds and removes

the "trash" (dirt, stems and leaves) from the

fibre. In a saw gin, circular saws grab the

fibre and pull it through a grating that is too

narrow for the seeds to pass. A roller gin is used with longer staple cotton. Here a leather

roller captures the cotton. A knife blade, set

close to the roller, detaches the seeds by

drawing them through teeth in circular saws

and revolving brushes which clean them

away. The ginned cotton fibre, known as lint,

is then compressed into bales which are about

1.5 m tall and weigh almost 220 kg. Only

33% of the crop is usable lint. Commercial

cotton is priced by quality, and that broadly

relates to the average length of the staple, and

the variety of the plant. Longer staple cotton

(2½ in to 1¼ in) is called Egyptian, medium

staple (1¼ in to ¾ in) is called American

upland and short staple (less than ¾ in) is

called Indian. The cotton seed is pressed into

a cooking oil. The husks and meal are

processed into animal feed, and the stems

into paper.

Preparatory processes - preparation of yarn

Ginning, bale-making and transportation is done in the country of origin.

Opening and cleaning

Platt Bros. Picker

Cotton mills get the cotton shipped to them in

large, 500 pound bales. When the cotton

comes out of a bale, it is all packed together

and still contains vegetable matter. The bale

is broken open using a machine with large

spikes. It is called an Opener. In order to

fluff up the cotton and remove the vegetable

matter, the cotton is sent through a picker, or

similar machines. The cotton is fed into a

machine known as a picker, and gets beaten

with a beater bar in order to loosen it up. It is

fed through various rollers, which serve to remove the vegetable matter. The cotton,

aided by fans, then collects on a screen and

gets fed through more rollers till it emerges

as a continuous soft fleecy sheet.

Blending,

Mixing & Scutching: Scutching refers to the

process of cleaning cotton of its seeds and other

impurities. The first scutching machine was

invented in 1797, but did not come into further

mainstream use until after 1808 or 1809, when it

was introduced and used in Manchester,

England. By 1816, it had become generally

adopted. The scutching machine worked by

passing the cotton through a pair of rollers, and

then striking it with iron or steel bars called

beater bars or beaters. The beaters, which turn

very quickly, strike the cotton hard and knock the

seeds out. This process is done over a series of

parallel bars so as to allow the seeds to fall

through. At the same time, air is blown across the

bars, which carries the cotton into a cotton

chamber.

Carding

Carding machine

A Combing machine

Carding: the fibres are separated and then

assembled into a loose strand (sliver or tow)

at the conclusion of this stage. The cotton

comes off of the picking machine in laps, and

is then taken to carding machines. The

carders line up the fibres nicely to make them

easier to spin. The carding machine consists

mainly of one big roller with smaller ones

surrounding it. All of the rollers are covered

in small teeth, and as the cotton progresses

further on the teeth get finer (i.e. closer

together). The cotton leaves the carding

machine in the form of a sliver; a large rope

of fibres.

Note: In a wider sense Carding can refer to

these four processes: Willowing- loosening

the fibres; Lapping- removing the dust to

create a flat sheet or lap of cotton; Carding-

combing the tangled lap into a thick rope of

1/2 in in diameter, a sliver; and Drawing-

where a drawing frame combines 4 slivers

into one- repeated for increased quality.

Combing is optional, but is used to remove

the shorter fibres, creating a stronger yarn.

Drawing the fibres are straightened

Several slivers are combined. Each sliver will

have thin and thick spots, and by combining

several slivers together a more consistent size

can be reached. Since combining several

slivers produces a very thick rope of cotton

fibres, directly after being combined the

slivers are separated into rovings. These

rovings (or slubbings) are then what are used

in the spinning process.

Generally speaking, for machine processing,

a roving is about the width of a pencil.

Drawing frame: Draws the strand out

Slubbing Frame: adds twist, and

winds onto bobbins

JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 15 of 28

Intermediate Frames: are used to

repeat the slubbing process to produce

a finer yarn.

Roving frames: reduces to a finer

thread, gives more twist, makes more

regular and even in thickness, and

winds onto a smaller tube.

Spinning - yarn manufacture Cotton – Spinning Machinery

Most spinning today is done using Break or

Open-end spinning, this is a technique where

the staples are blown by air into a rotating

drum, where they attach themselves to the

tail of formed yarn that is continually being

drawn out of the chamber. Other methods of

break spinning use needles and electrostatic

forces. This method has replace the older

methods of ring and mule spinning. It is also

is easily adapted for artificial fibres.

The spinning machines takes the roving, thins

it and twists it, creating yarn which it winds

onto a bobbin.

In mule spinning the roving is pulled off a

bobbin and fed through some rollers, which

are feeding at several different speeds. This

thins the roving at a consistent rate. If the

roving was not a consistent size, then this

step could cause a break in the yarn, or could

jam the machine. The yarn is twisted through

the spinning of the bobbin as the carriage

moves out, and is rolled onto a cylinder

called a spindle, which then produces a cone-

shaped bundle of fibres known as a "cop", as

the carriage returns. Mule spinning produces

a finer thread than the less skilled ring

spinning.

The mule was an intermittent process,

as the frame advanced and returned a

distance of 5ft.It was the descendant

of 1779 Crompton device. It produces a softer less twisted thread that was

favoured for fines and for weft.

The ring was a descendant of the

Arkwright water Frame 1769. It was a

continuous process, the yarn was

coarser, had a greater twist and was

stronger so was suited to be warp.

Ring spinning is slow due to the

distance the thread must pass around

the ring, other methods have been

introduced.

Sewing thread, was made of several threads

twisted together, or doubled. Checking This is the process where each of the bobbins is rewound to give a tighter bobbin. Folding and twisting Plying is done by pulling yarn from two or more bobbins and twisting it together, in the opposite direction that in which it was spun. Depending on the weight desired, the cotton may or may not be plied, and the number of strands twisted together varies. Gassing

Singe & Textiles and Gassing (textile

process). Gassing is the process of passing

yarn, as distinct from fabric very rapidly

through a series of Bunsen gas flames in a

gassing frame, in order to burn off the

projecting fibers and make the thread round

and smooth and also brighter. Only the better

qualities of yarn are gassed, such as that used

for voiles, poplins, venetians, gabardines,

many Egyptian qualities, etc. There is a loss

of weight in gassing, which varies' about 5 to

8 per cent., so that if a 2/60's yarn is required

2/56's would be used. The gassed yarn is

darker in shade afterwards, but should not be

scorched.

Mule spinning

Mule spinning

Ring spinning

Ring spinning

Measurements

Units of textile measurement.

Cotton Counts: The number of pieces of

thread, 840 yards long needed to make up

1 lb weight. 10 count cotton means that

10x840 yd weighs 1 lb. This is coarser than

40 count cotton where 40x840 yards are

needed. In the United Kingdom, Counts to

40s are coarse (Oldham Counts), 40 to 80s

are medium counts and above 80 is a fine

count. In the United States ones to 20s are

coarse counts.

Hank: A length of 7 leas or 840 yards

Thread: A length of 54 in (the circumference

of a warp beam)

Bundle: Usually 10 lb

Lea: A length of 80 threads or 120 yards

Denier: this is an alternative method. It is

defined as a number that is equivalent to the

weight in grams of 9000m of a single yarn.

15 denier is finer than 30 denier.

Tex: is the weight in grams of 1 km of yarn.

The worsted hank is only 560 yd

Weaving-fabric manufacture

The weaving process uses a loom. The length way

threads are known as the wrap, and the cross way

threads are known as the Weft. The warp which must

be strong needs to be presented to loom on a warp

beam. The weft passes across the loom in a shuttle

that carries the yarn on a pirn. These pirns are

automatically changed by the loom. Thus, the yarn

needs to be wrapped onto a beam, and onto pirns

before weaving can commence.

Winding After being spun and plied, the cotton thread

is taken to a warping room where the

winding machine takes the required length of

yarn and winds it onto wrappers bobbins

Warping or beaming

A Wrapper

Racks of bobbins are set up to hold the thread

while it is rolled onto the warp bar of a loom.

Because the thread is fine, often three of

these would be combined to get the desired

thread count.

Slasher sizing machine needed for

strengthening the warp by adding starch to

reduce breakage of the yarns.

Sizing

Drawing in, Looming

The process of drawing each end of the warp

separately through the dents of the reed and

the eyes of the healds, in the order indicated

by the draft.

Pirning (Processing the weft)

Pirn winding frame was used to transfer the

weft from cheeses of yarn onto the pirns that

would fit into the shuttle

Weaving

Power Looms

At this point, the thread is woven. Depending

on the era, one person could manage

anywhere from 3 to 100 machines. In the mid

nineteenth century, four was the standard

number. A skilled weaver in 1925 would run

6 Lancashire Looms. As time progressed new

JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 17 of 28

mechanisms were added that stopped the

loom any time something went wrong. The

mechanisms checked for such things as a

broken warp thread, broken weft thread, the

shuttle going straight across, and if the

shuttle was empty. Forty of these Northrop

Looms or automatic looms could be operated

by one skilled worker.

A Draper loom in textile museum, Lowell,

Massachusetts

The three primary movements of a loom are

shedding, picking, and beating-up.

Shedding: The operation of dividing

the warp into two lines, so that the

shuttle can pass between these lines.

There are two general kinds of sheds-

"open" and "closed." Open Shed-The

warp threads are moved when the

pattern requires it-from one line to the

other. Closed Shed-The warp threads

are all placed level in one line after

each pick.

Picking: The operation of projecting

the shuttle from side to side of the

loom through the division in the warp

threads. This is done by the over pick

or under pick motions. The over pick

is suitable for quick-running looms,

whereas the under pick is best for

heavy or slow looms.

Beating-up: The third primary

movement of the loom when making

cloth, and is the action of the reed as

it drives each pick of weft to the fell

of the cloth.

The Lancashire Loom was the first semi-

automatic loom. Jacquard looms and Dobby

looms are looms that have sophisticated

methods of shedding. They may be separate

looms, or mechanisms added to a plain loom.

A Northrop Loom was fully automatic and

was mass produced between 1909 and the

mid-1960s. Modern looms run faster and do

not use a shuttle: there are air jet looms,

water jet looms and rapier looms.

Measurements

Ends and Picks: Picks refer to the weft, ends

refer to the warp. The coarseness of the cloth

can be expressed as the number of picks and

ends per quarter inch square, or per inch

square. Ends is always written first. For

example: Heavy domestics are made from

coarse yarns, such as 10's to 14's warp and

weft, and about 48 ends and 52 picks.

Associated job titles

Piecer Scavenger

Weaver

Tackler Draw boy

Pirner

Issues

When a hand loom was located in the home, children

helped with the weaving process from an early age.

Piecing needs dexterity, and a child can be as

productive as an adult. When weaving moves from

the home to the mill, children are often allowed to

help their older sisters, and laws have to be made to

prevent child labor becoming established.

Knitting- fabric manufacture

A circular knitting machine.

Close-up on the needles.

Knitting be machine is done in two different ways;

warp and weft. Weft knitting (as seen in the pictures)

is similar in method to hand knitting with stitches all

connected to each other horizontally. Various weft

machines can be configured to produce textiles from

a single spool of yarn or multiple spools depending

on the size of the machine cylinder (where the

needles are bedded). In a warp knit there are many

pieces of yarn and there are vertical chains,

zigzagged together by crossing the yarn. Cotton

Warp knits do not stretch as much as a weft knit, and

it is run-resistant. A weft knit is not run-resistant, but

stretches more. This is especially true if spools of

spandex are processed from separate spool

containers and interwoven through the cylinder with

cotton yarn, giving the finished product more

flexibility and making it less prone to having a

'baggy' appearance. The average t-shirt is a weft knit.

Finishing- processing of textiles

The woven cotton fabric in its loom-state, not only

contains impurities, including warp size, but requires

further treatment in order to develop its full textile

potential. Furthermore, it may receive considerable

added value by applying one or more finishing

processes.

Desising: Depending on the size that has been used, the cloth may be steeped in a

dilute acid and then rinsed, or enzymes may

be used to break down the size.[27]

Scouring: Scouring, is a chemical washing

process carried out on cotton fabric to

remove natural wax and non-fibrous

impurities (e.g. the remains of seed

fragments) from the fibres and any added

soiling or dirt. Scouring is usually carried in

iron vessels called kiers. The fabric is boiled

in an alkali, which forms a soap with free

fatty acids (saponification).

A kier is usually enclosed, so the solution of

sodium hydroxide can be boiled under

pressure, excluding oxygen which would

degrade the cellulose in the fibre. If the

appropriate reagebts are used, scouring will

also remove size from the fabric although

desizing often precedes scouring and is

considered to be a separate process known as

fabric preparation. Preparation and scouring

are prerequisites to most of the other

finishing processes. At this stage even the

most naturally white cotton fibres are

yellowish, and bleaching, the next process, is

required.

Bleaching

Textile Bleaching; Bleaching improves

whiteness by removing natural coloration and

remaining trace impurities from the cotton; the

degree of bleaching necessary is determined by

the required whiteness and absorbency. Cotton

being a vegetable fibre will be bleached using an

oxidizing agent, such as dilute sodium

hypochlorite or dilute hydrogen peroxide. If the

fabric is to be dyed a deep shade, then lower

levels of bleaching are acceptable, for example.

However, for white bed sheetings and medical

applications, the highest levels of whiteness and

absorbency are essential.

Mercerising

Mercerized Cotton: A further possibility is

mercerizing during which the fabric is treated with

caustic sodasolution to cause swelling of the fibres.

This results in improved lustre, strength and dye

affinity. Cotton is mercerized under tension, and all

alkali must be washed out before the tension is

released or shrinkage will take place. Mercerizing

can take place directly on grey cloth, or after

bleaching. Many other chemical treatments may be

applied to cotton fabrics to produce low

flammability, crease resist and other special effects

but four important non-chemical finishing treatments

are:

Singeing

JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 19 of 28

Singe & Textiles: Singeing is designed to burn off

the surface fibres from the fabric to produce

smoothness. The fabric passes over brushes to raise

the fibres, then passes over a plate heated by gas

flames.

Raising: Another finishing process is raising.

During raising, the fabric surface is treated

with sharp teeth to lift the surface fibres,

thereby imparting hairiness, softness and

warmth, as in flannelette.

Calendering: Calendering is the third

important mechanical process, in which the

fabric is passed between heated rollers to

generate smooth, polished or embossed

effects depending on roller surface properties

and relative speeds.

Shrinking (Sanforizing): Finally,

mechanical shrinking (sometimes referred to

as sanforizing), whereby the fabric is forced

to shrink width and/or lengthwise, creates a

fabric in which any residual tendency to

shrink after subsequent laundering is

minimal.

Dyeing: Finally, cotton is an absorbent fibre

which responds readily to colouration

processes. Dyeing, for instance, is commonly

carried out with an anionic direct dye by

completely immersing the fabric (or yarn) in

an aqueous dyebath according to a prescribed

procedure. For improved fastness to washing,

rubbing and light, other dyes such as vats and

reactives are commonly used. These require

more complex chemistry during processing

and are thus more expensive to apply.

Textile Printing

Printing, on the other hand, is the application

of colour in the form of a paste or ink to the

surface of a fabric, in a predetermined

pattern. It may be considered as localised

dyeing. Printing designs onto already dyed

fabric is also possible.

Economic, environmental and political

consequences of cotton manufacture

The growth of cotton is divided into two segments

i.e. organic and genetically modified. Cotton crop

provides livelihood to millions of people but its

production is becoming expensive because of high

water consumption, use of expensive pesticides,

insecticides and fertiliser. Genetically Modified

products aim to increase disease resistance and

reduce the water required. The organic sector was

worth $583 million. Genetically Modified cotton, in

2007, occupied 43% of cotton growing areas. Cotton

is farmed intensively and uses large amounts of

fertilizer and 25% of the world's insecticides. Native

Indian varieties of cotton were rainwater fed, but

modern hybrids used for the mills need irrigation,

which spreads pests. The 5% of cotton-bearing land

in India uses 55% of all pesticides used in India.

The consumption of energy in form of water and

electricity is relatively high, especially in processes

like washing, de-sizing, bleaching, rinsing, dyeing,

printing, coating and finishing. Processing is time

consuming. The major portion of water in textile

industry is used for wet processing of textile (70 per

cent). Approximately 25 per cent of energy in the

total textile production like fibre production,

spinning, twisting, weaving, knitting, clothing

manufacturing etc. is used in dyeing. About 34 per

cent of energy is consumed in spinning, 23 per cent

in weaving, 38 per cent in chemical wet processing

and five per cent in miscellaneous processes. Power

dominates consumption pattern in spinning and

weaving, while thermal energy is the major factor for

chemical wet processing. Before mechanisation,

cotton was harvested manually by farmers in India

and by African slaves in America. In 2012

Uzbekistan was a major exporter of cotton and uses

manual labour during the harvest. Human rights

groups claim that health care professionals and

children are forced to pick cotton.

Processing of other vegetable fibres

Flax: Flax is a Bast Fibre, which means it comes in

bundles under the bark of the Linum usitatissimum

plant. The plant flowers and is harvested.

Retting Breaking Scutching Hackling or Combing

FLAX is now treated like cotton.

Jute: Jute is a Bast Fibre which comes from the

inner bark of the plants of the Corchorus genus. It is

retted like flax, sundried and baled. When spinning a

small amount of oil must be added to the fibre. It can

be bleached and dyed. It was used for sacks and bags

but is now used for the backing for carpets. Jute can

be blended with other fibres to make composite

fabrics and work continues in Bangladesh to refine

the processes and extend the range of usage possible.

In the 1970s, jute-cotton composite fabrics were

known as jutton fabrics.

Hemp

Hemp is a Bast Fibre from the inner bark of

Cannabis sativa. It is difficult to bleach, it is used for

making cord and rope.

Retting

Separating

Pounding

Other bast fibers: These bast fibers can also be used: Kenaf, Urena, Ramie, Nettle. Other leaf fibers. Sisal is the main leaf fiber used; others are: abaca and henequen. Processing of protein fibers

Wool

comes from domesticated sheep. It forms two

products, woolens and worsteds. Sheep has two sorts

of wool and it is the inner coat that is used. This can

be mixed with wool that has been recovered from

rags. Shoddy is the term for recovered wool that is

not matted, while Mungo comes from Felted wool.

Extract is recovered chemically from mixed

cotton/wool fabrics.

The fleece is cut in one piece from the sheep. This is

then skirted to remove the soiled wool, and baled. It

is graded into long wool where the fibers can be up

to 15 in, but anything over 2.5 inches is suitable for

combing into worsteds. Fibers less than that form

short wool and are described as clothing or carding

wool.

At the mill the wool is scoured in a detergent to

remove grease (the yolk) and impurities. This is done

mechanically in the opening machine. Vegetable

matter can be removed chemically using Sulphuric

Acid (carbonising). Washing uses a solution of soap

and Sodium Carbonate. The wool is oiled before

carding or combing.

Woollens: Use noils from the worsted combs, mungo and shoddy and new short wool

Worsteds Combing: Oiled slivers are wound into laps, and placed in the circular comber. The worsted yarn gathers together to form a top. The shorter fibres or noils remain behind and are removed with a knife.

Silk: The processes in Silk production are similar to

those of cotton but take account that reeled silk is a continuous fibre. The terms used are different. Opening bales. Assorting skeins: where silk is sorted by colour, size and quality, scouring: where the silk is washed in water of 40 degrees for 12 hours to remove the natural gum, drying: either by steam heating or centrifuge, softening: by rubbing to remove any remaining hard spots. Silk throwing (winding). The skeins are placed on a reel in a frame with many others. The silk is wound onto spools or bobbins.

JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 21 of 28

Doubling and twisting. The silk is far

too fine to be woven, so now it is

doubled and twisted to make the

warp, known as organzine and the

weft, known as tram. In organzine

each single is given a few twists per

inch (tpi), and combine with several

other singles counter twisted hard at

10 to 14 tpi. In tram the two singles

are doubled with each other with a

light twist, 3 to 6 tpi. Sewing thread is

two tram threads, hard twisted, and

machine-twist is made of three hard-

twisted tram threads. Tram for the

crepe process is twisted at up to 80 tpi

to make it 'kick up'.

Stretching. The thread is tested for

consistent size. Any uneven thickness

is stretched out. The resulting thread

is reeled into containing 500 yd to

2500 yd. The skeins are about 50 in in

loop length.

Dyeing: the skeins are scoured again,

and discoloration removed with a

sulphur process. This weakens the

silk. The skeins are now tinted or

dyed. They are dried and rewound

onto bobbins, spools and skeins.

Looming, and the weaving process on

power looms is the same as with

cotton.

Weaving. The organzine is now warped. This

is a similar process to in cotton. Firstly, thirty

threads or so are wound onto a warping reel,

and then using the warping reels, the threads

are beamed. A thick layer of paper is laid

between each layer on the beam to stop

entangling.

Processing of synthetic fibers Discussion of types of synthetic fiber

Synthetic fibers are the result of extensive development by Scientists to improve upon the

naturally occurring Animal and plant fibers. In

general, Synthetic Fibers are created by forcing, or

extruding, fiber forming materials through holes

(called spinnerets) into the air, thus forming a thread.

Before synthetic fibers were developed, Cellulose

Fibers were made from natural Cellulose, which

comes from plants.

The first artificial fiber, known as Art Silk from

1799 onwards, became known as Viscose around

1894, and finally Rayon in 1924. A similar product

known as Cellulose Acetate was discovered in 1865.

Rayon and acetate are both artificial fibers, but not

truly synthetic, being made from wood. Although

these artificial fibers were discovered in the mid-

nineteenth century, successful modern manufacture

began much later in the 1930s. Nylon, the first

synthetic fiber, made its debut in the US as a

replacement for Silk and was used for Parachutes

and other Military uses.

The techniques used to process these fibers in yarn

are essentially the same as with natural fibers,

modifications have to be made as these fibers are of

great length, and have no texture such as the scales

in cotton and wool that aid meshing.

TWILL PHOTOS, STRUCTURE,

CHARACTERISTICS

A twill weave can be identified by its diagonal lines. This is a 2/2 twill, with two

warp threads crossing every two weft threads.

Structure of a 2⁄2 twill. The offset at each row forms the diagonal pattern.

A twill with ribs in both sides, called herringbone.

Diamond twill, with weaving edge (left), blue warp, red weft.

Twill is a type of textile weave with a pattern of

diagonal parallel ribs (in contrast with a satin and

plain weave). This is done by passing the weft thread

over one or more warp threads and then under two or

more warp threads and so on, with a "step" or offset

between rows to create the characteristic diagonal

pattern. Because of this structure, twills generally

drape well.

Structure

In a twill weave, each weft or filling yarn floats

across the warp yarns in a progression of interlacings

to the right or left, forming a distinct diagonal line.

This diagonal line is also known as a wale. A float is

the portion of a yarn that crosses over two or more

yarns from the opposite direction.

A twill weave requires three or more harnesses,

depending on its complexity. A twill weave is the

second most basic weave that can be made on a

fairly simple loom.

Twill Characteristics

Twill fabrics technically have a front and a back

side, unlike plain weave, whose two sides are the

same. The front side of the twill is the technical face;

the back is called the technical back. The technical

face side of a twill weave fabric is the side with the

most pronounced wale; it is usually more durable,

more attractive, most often used as the fashion side

of the fabric, and the side visible during weaving. If

there are warp floats on the technical face (i.e., if the

warp crosses over two or more wefts), there will be

filling floats (the weft will cross over two or more

warps) on the technical back. If the twill wale goes

up to the right on one side, it will go up to the left on

the other side. Twill fabrics have no up and down as

they are woven.

Soil and stains are less noticeable on the uneven

surface of twills than on smooth surfaces, such as

plain weaves. Thus, twills are often used for sturdy

work clothing or durable upholstery. Denim, for

example, is a twill.

The fewer interlacings in twills allow the yarns to

move more freely, and thus they are softer, more

pliable, and drape better than plain-weave textiles.

Twills also recover from wrinkles better than plain-

weave fabrics do. When there are fewer interlacings,

JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 23 of 28

yarns can be packed closer together to produce high-

count fabrics. In twills and higher counts, the fabric

is more durable and air- and water-resistant.

There are even-sided twills and warp-faced twills.

Even-sided twills include foulard or surah,

herringbone, houndstooth, serge, sharkskin, and twill

flannel. Warp-faced twills include cavalry twill,

chino, covert, denim, drill, fancy twill, gabardine,

and lining twill. Examples of twill fabric are chino,

covert, denim, tweed, ganardine, drill and serge.

COTTON / BLENDED TWILL EXPORTS

FROM PAKISTAN

1. The offered Twill is normally bought by the

buyers for making garments (gents, ladies, kids).

2. Buyers either import Twill at their ends where

they make the required garments and then get the

garments dyed, some of the manufacturers first get

the Twill dyed and then start making the garments.

3. Some of the buyers ask Pakistan suppliers to ship

the Twills direct to garments manufacturing units

operating in other countries for making the garments

in Buyer's style and design and getting them dyed

and ship as a value added garments to the original

buyers of Twill from Pakistan.

4. PFD stands for 'Prepared for Dying', PFD quality

is Mill Dying.

5. PFGD stands 'Prepared for Garments Dying', this

quality is Garments Dying.

BASIC INFORMATION ON COTTON IN

RELATION WITH

COTTON/BLENDED TWILL EXPORTS FROM

PAKISTAN

In international arena, American cotton is considered as finest quality. The US offers

its cotton free of any contamination.

Egyptian cotton comes 2nd

in quality.

Pakistan’s number 3rd

which produces coarse cotton, which contains contamination.

Pakistan origin cotton used to produce up to 30-counts, however Pakistan is producing

cotton up to 80-counts, but in limited

quantity due to major cotton crop produceds

coarse counts 30 count and less.

Cotton crop is cultivated mainly in Punjab

province and Sindh Province.

India’s cotton starts from 100-counts.

Cotton consumption in the world is around 5% of fine counts (80 and above), whereas

around 95% world’s consumption is of

coarse counts.

QUALITIES OF COTTON USED IN

PAKISTAN

1. Punjab Province (Pakistan),

2. Sindh Province (Pakistan), and

3. American / India origins.

CONSTRUCTION OF COTTON TWILL IN

PAKISTAN

Yarn counts

Example: 20CD x 18+70D /103 x 54 / 55-56

inches

Warp Weft Reed Pick Width

PFD stands for 'Prepared for Dying', and this quality

is known as Mill Dying.

PFGD stands 'Prepared for Garments Dying', and

this quality is known as Garments Dying.

PEACH OR MINCO SANDED: Velvet feel dyeing.

DYING PROCESS IN PAKISTAN VAT: It is a double dying process. First Pat dying

then Chemical-Pat dying.

VARIETIES OF PAKISTAN ORIGIN TWILL NORMALLY

TRADED IN INTERNATIONAL MARKET

1. 100% Cotton

2. Poly Cotton (98% Cotton + 2% Spandex)

3. Poly Cotton Lycra (97% Cotton + 2%

Spandex + 1% Lycra)

PACKING MODE

1. Roll for processed material. 125 / 150 / 175

meters per roll.

2. Bale for Grey Cloth. 400 / 500 / 600 meters

per bale.

CONTAINER MAXIMUM STUFFING CAPACITY

(APPROXIMATE)

20-FT 40-FT 40-FT HC

Rolls 150 285 315

Bales 60 115 130

FINISHED PRODUCTS – FABRICS

MANUFACTURING UNITS MAKING GARMENTS

SUGGESTIONS / RECOMMENDATIONS FOR MARKETING PAKISTAN ORIGIN TWILL

1. It is humbly suggested to those GRW

Agencies worldwide, which are seriously

interested to give a try to market and make

sales of Pakistan origin cotton/blended twill

in their territories, to read the article under

the following name, as published in the GRW

Newsletter, December 01, 2014 issue.

“SUGGESTIONS FOR MAKING AN EFFECTIVE MARKET PLAN”

2. In addition to the suggestions and

recommendations as discussed in the

aforesaid article, following tips could also be

beneficial for the agencies, which the GRW

agencies should implement before take an

action in the areas of marketing and sale.

First of all, agencies will have to ascertain whether

the respective territory has following basic

ingredients available required for importing twill

into that particular territory:

i) Manufacturing units are available in the respective territory, which are operative and

making garments for ladies, gents and kids

from cotton and blended cloth;

ii) Exports of garments is also one of the regular items exports from the respective territory;

iii) Garments manufacturers and traders

(importers) have been importing twill into the

respective territory from different origins.

3. It is suggested to those GRW Agencies, which are new in the Twill business, they

must conduct a brief market survey limited to

check the garments, dresses for all ages and

genders made from cotton and blended

fabrics, being sold from retail outlets, which

are made locally (that country origin), so that

you could be sure that particular territory has

garments produced locally. During the brief

survey you would also know what sorts of

imported garments and cloths are available in

the market, and when you discuss with

around 10-shopkeepers (retailers) in different

areas (one city), you would also gether

information about the market share of locally

manufactured garments and clothing against

imported stuff plus price difference between

imported articles and locally produced

articles.

JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 25 of 28

4. Get the total numbers of manufacturing units

being operated in each respective territory,

then divide them in 3-catagories (first those

units that hold combined 50% market share,

second which hold 30% market share and the

third which hold balance 20% share). Once

this exercise is done, then it is suggested to

initially attack those small to medium

manufacturing units which hold 20% market

share, because it would be much easier to

meet them and to obtain small orders (one

full container load) from them comparing to

those manufacturing units which have been

enjoying around 80% market share jointly.

Once you are penetrated in that particular

territory, you would be able to reach

gradually to those manufacturing units which

are enjoying 80% market share.

5. To save time and energy, try to get detailed

specifications of twill which manufacturing

units have been regularly importing, so that

Pakistan could concentrate in respect of

quality and prices, only on those material

which are more consumed in that particular

territory, in order to be competitive against

other origins already available in that

particular territory.

6. It would be very important to have following

information too:

a. List of importers importing twill or

fabric from different overseas

countries;

b. Names of exporting countries from

where twill or fabric is being

imported;

c. Annual import value in USA $ of

twill or fabric (meant for making

garments);

d. Which are number 1 and number 2

countries from where major import of

twill

is being made.

7. The offered sheets are normally bought by

buyers to make garments (gents, ladies, kids).

8. Buyers either import sheets at their ends

where they make the required garments and

then get them dyed, some of the

manufacturers first get the sheets dyed and

then start making the garments.

9. Some of the buyers ask Pakistan suppliers to

ship the sheet to garments manufacturing

units operating in other countries for making

the garments in Buyer's style and design and

getting them dyed and ship the value added

garments to the original buyers of sheets

from Pakistan.

DIFFERENT TYPES AND KINDS OF FINISHED GARMENTS MADE FROM TWILL AND FABRIC

Ladies dresses

blouses, bias skirt, Bermuda, jackets, tops, night-wears, under-garments, sports wear, T-shirts,

polo shirts, and many other items in solids, yarn

dyed and prints, Viscose/Linen, Ramie/cotton,

Viscose/georgette, chiffon, Linen/cotton, 100% Ramie, etc.etc.

Men’s Wear

men’s shirts and shorts, night wears, under-

garments, sports-wear, T-shirts, polo shirts, in Viscose/Linen, Ramie/cotton,

Viscose/georgette, chiffon, Linen/cotton, Ramie,

Other products Bed linens. Pillow covers, Bedspreads.Table cloths,

Table mats, Napkins. Kitchen linens. Kitchen

Towel, Aprons, Gloves, Potholder. Cushion covers,

Throws, Coaster, Pot-warmer. Bath-Mat, Shower curtains, Bath robe, Bath

towels. Outfits for Girls and Women and for KIDS

GARMENTS FOR GENTS AND TEENAGERS

WORKING GLOVES

JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 27 of 28

OTHER ARTICLES INCLUDING BED SHEETS, TERRY TOWELS, COMFORTERS, ETC.

Compiled by GRW Representation Pakistan

Dated: Tuesday – December 16, 2014

Place: Karachi (Pakistan)

Additional detailed information, photos and data on Pakistan origin Cotton and its products are available with GRW Main, which can be forwarded to the interested GRW Agencies and Clients on specific request. WE KNOW THERE IS QUITE A LOT OF INFORMATION ON THE COTTON TWILL ON THIS JANUARY 2015 NEWSLETTER, BUT IT GIVES PHOTOS, BACKGROUND AND MUCH MORE TO GIVE YOU ALL THE TOOLS YOU NEED TO COPY THE DATA AND GIVE INFORMATION TO YOUR POTENTIAL CLIENTS.

SOME CLOSING WORDS BY OUR FOUNDER, R.E BRADLEY:

“

“I always thought of myself as a down to earth simple

man with strong opinions about my fellow man. I would communicate by email with clients and even GRW agencies, but I could tell when I sat in front of them eyeball to eyeball if I could really trust them or not. I have flown on private jets of world famous people, but I prided myself on never thinking too highly of myself or of being conceited on my stature in life. I could always hear the voice of someone and by hearing their voice, I could develop my own opinion if we would be friends or not. In my days it was a handshake that sealed a deal, but nowadays, contracts seals the deal but even contracts do not guarantee honesty as it is the person behind the contract that determines the honesty.” In memory of R.E. Bradley, Founder of GRW 50 YEARS AGO. He Passed away on January 04, 2014. THIS CONCLUDES THE JANUARY 2015 GRW NEWSLETTER. WE CLOSE BY SAYING HAPPY NEW YEAR 2015 TO YOU AND WISHING YOU ALL THE SUCCESS IN THE WORLD, ALONG WITH PEACE AND HAPPINESS. DID YOU CONFIRM TO GRWUSA@AOL.COM THAT YOU RECEIVED AND READ THIS NEWSLETTER.?