natural hazards series - texas a&m agrilife...

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Storm Recovery

Natural Hazards Series

Guide for Homeowners

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1. Be Safe: Stay Healthy after a Disaster .................................................................................................... 4Safety in a Disaster AreaDangers of Debris

Approaching and Entering a Damaged BuildingFood and Water Safety

You May Run into Critters in Unusual PlacesAvoiding Mold Hazards

These are Trying Times

2. Surviving and Recovering from a Power Outage ................................................................................. 10Using Generators for Electrical PowerPlay it Safe with Food

How to Cook when the Power Goes OffRemoving Odors from Refrigerator and Freezer

Power Outage in Winter

3. Restoring Storm-damaged Buildings .................................................................................................... 14Determining Structural DamagePreliminary Repairs

Dry Well to Prevent DecayFlooding and Damage-causing Pests

Repairing the Roof After a StormStrengthen Weak Points

4. Salvaging Water-damaged Belongings .................................................................................................. 19Caring for Large Electrical Appliances

Salvaging and Cleaning FurnitureCleaning Carpets and Floors

Cleaning Storm-soaked Clothing

5. Lawn and Garden Losses........................................................................................................................ 23Salvage TipsTree Debris and Renewal

Assessing Landscape Tree LossSmall Fruit Strategies after a Storm

Salinity and Turfgrass after a Hurricane

6. Financial Recovery and Risk Management ............................................................................................ 27Documenting Losses and ClaimsFiling for Insurance

Homeowner’s InsuranceFlood Insurance

Credit and Other Sources of ReliefContracting for Repairs and Rebuilding

Contract Essentials

Table of Contents

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• Keep small children, pregnant women and peoplewith health problems away from the flooded areasuntil cleanup is complete.

• If children are in the area, be sure they are safe andbeing cared for at all times. Never leave youngchildren alone or allow them to play in damagedbuildings or areas strewn with debris.

• Learn to recognize and deal with stress.

• If you get a scratch, cut or brush burn from flooddebris and have not had a tetanus booster in the lastfew years, consult your doctor immediately.

Dangers of DebrisDebris is hazardous. It often

has sharp or rough edges; it maycause falls; it may containhazardous material such asasbestos, lead or fiberglass; and it may have beencontaminated with chemicals or germs by the flood orstorm.

ContaminationFloodwater may have flowed through the local

sewerage system before reaching your property. If ithas come from upriver, it may contain contaminatedrunoff. Such water may have elevated levels of fecalcoliform and chemicals. Floodwaters may have pickedup pesticides, herbicides, fertilizers, gasoline and otherchemicals commonly held in household storage areas.

The bacteria which cause tetanus, or lockjaw, maylie dormant in soil. This is why cuts from tools or otherobjects that have been on the ground are particularlyhazardous. Once the dormant forms (spores) of tetanusenter the body, they begin to multiply and form apowerful toxin that affects muscles. The most commonsymptoms are a stiffness of the neck muscles andpainful spasms of the jaw muscles. Other musclespasms may occur later. Tetanus frequently causesdeath. Symptoms of tetanus may appear from four daysto three weeks after the wound is infected. About halfthe tetanus cases in the United States result frominjuries considered trivial at the time they happen.

If you have not had immunization against tetanusand receive a scratch, cut or brush burn, consult aphysician immediately. An immediate injection oftetanus antitoxin will last long enough to preventinfection from developing, if given in time.

The forces of nature – wind, water, earthquake andextremes of temperature – can leave behind debris-strewn areas, contaminated water, spoiled food,displaced wildlife and conditions which, if not treatedproperly, may lead to health problems. In these pagesyou’ll find information to help you avoid and recoverfrom some of the hazards created by wind and water;severe winter weather is covered in a separatepublication. Remember to take care of yourself andyour family first, then deal with the things you mayhave lost to the disaster.

Safety in a Disaster Area• Keep a radio on so you can hear bulletins and other

announcements.

• Avoid riding, driving or walking through a floodedarea. Flooded roads are weakened, ditches are hardto distinguish from roads and bridges may bewashed out. Never go around a police barricade.

• Walk or drive cautiously. Debris-filled streets aredangerous. In flooded areas, washouts may haveweakened roads and bridges, and they could col-lapse under the weight of your vehicle.

• Don’t touch any building, car or other structurewhich has a fallen power line touching it. Call aprofessional electrician or power company represen-tative to remove the line.

• Don’t use flames or sparking devices until you’resure there is no natural gas leaking in the area.

• Be careful around damaged buildings and trees.These may fall if damaged severely.

• Wear protective clothing, sturdy shoes and gloves.

• Assume that water supplies are contaminated.

• Consider all foods that have been in contact withfloodwater to be contaminated.

• Be aware that snakes, rodents and other animals mayhave taken refuge in storm debris or even in yourhome. Use a poking stick to announce your ap-proach and allow animals to flee.

• If you are bitten by a poisonous snake, don’t try totreat the bite yourself. Go to the nearest hospital fortreatment immediately. Make a mental note of theappearance of the snake for identification andtreatment purposes.

Be Safe:Stay Healthy after a DisasterNatural Hazards Series: Recovery - Part 1

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Hazardous MaterialsSome of the debris on your property may

contain asbestos (roofing, siding, flooring tiles) or bepainted with lead-based paint (pre-1978 paint).Airborne asbestos and lead dust are dangerous toinhale or ingest (eat), but they are generally harmlesswhen wet. They should be handled with gloves andbagged while wet. Fiberglass fibers from insulation willirritate skin and lungs after contact or if inhaled; collectcarefully and bag.

BurningIn areas where burning is permitted, be particularly

careful not to burn asphalt roofing, vinyl siding or anyform of treated lumber. The smoke can cause eye andlung irritation or other problems. Don’t burn wood withlead-based paint since the lead fumes are poisonous.

InfestationProper cleanup and disposal of debris will reduce

the potential for nesting by rodents, snakes and insects.If your debris will not be disposed of quickly, be sureto pile it as far from the building as possible to keepinfestations in a concentrated area away from thehome. Don’t let children play on or around debris.

Approachingand Entering aDamaged Building

Before entering a damagedbuilding, check for structuraldamage. Make sure the buildingis not in danger of collapsing. Look for leaning walls,sagging roofs and ceilings, and weakened supportcolumns.• Turn off any outside gas lines, and let the house

ventilate for several minutes to remove escaping gas.• Be sure all electric service is turned off before

entering for the first time. If the main disconnect isinside the house, it would be wise to call your utilitycompany for assistance. Even if power is out in yourneighborhood, disconnect the main switch, fuse orcircuit breaker at your home, and disconnect allcircuits.

• When entering the building, don’t use an open flameas a light source; use a battery-operated flashlight.DO NOT SMOKE.

• Enter carefully. Walking surfaces may be slipperyor uneven. Check for a sagging ceiling; wet insula-tion or pocketed water can cause ceilings to fall.Once in, unplug all appliances that have beenflooded. Remember that some appliances can shockyou even after the power is turned off.

Part 3 of this series deals with determining andstopping structural damage.

Food and Water Safety

WaterAfter a major storm or flood, you

must assume all water sources arecontaminated until they are provedsafe. Purify all water used for drinking,cooking and for washing eating andcooking utensils. Also purify the water usedfor washing hands, body and kitchen andbathroom surfaces. Do NOT try to use or purify waterthat has a dark color, an odor or contains floatingmaterial. Note that the purification procedures outlinedhere reduce biological contamination only; if yoususpect chemical contamination, do not use the water.

Choose ONE of these methods to purify water thathas biological contamination. Boiling is the mosteffective method of disinfecting of water, particularlyfor people who have severely weakened immunesystems (infected with HIV/AIDS, cancer andtransplant patients taking immunosuppressive drugs, orpeople born with a weakened immune system) and forinfants and elderly who wish to take extra precautions.

• Boil water for one full minute in a clean container.The one-minute boil time begins after the water hasbeen brought to a rolling boil. (The flat taste can beeliminated by shaking the water in a bottle or pour-ing it from one container to another.)

• If the water is clear, mix 1/8 teaspoon or 16 drops ofunscented, liquid chlorine laundry bleach with onegallon of water and let it stand for at least 30 minutesprior to consumption. If the water is cloudy orcolored, use 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water. Besure to mix thoroughly. If the treated water has achlorine taste, pour it from one clean container toanother several times.

References: USDA Food Safety and InspectionService, Keeping Food Safe During an Emergency,2005 and Louisiana Department of Health andHospitals, Office of Public Health, News Release,Drinking Water Warning Issued to Southeast LAResidents, August 31, 2005

• Other treatments such as iodine or purificationtablets are not recommended.

Water Well PurificationHow do I clean and disinfect my well after a flood?

After a flood, it is important to take everyprecaution to ensure the safety of your well water. First,it is necessary to inspect and clean the well and pumpbefore using them. You may want to have your waterwell driller or contractor check out the well beforeusing it.

• Do not turn on the pump until an electrician or wellcontractor has checked the wiring. There is a risk ofelectrical shock! After the proper inspections havetaken place, run the pump and discard the water untilthe well water runs clear.

Natural Hazards Series: Recovery - Part 1

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• Most important, after a flood, you should disinfectthe well. This can be accomplished by following theprocedures outlined below; however, it is advisableto hire a well contractor to disinfect the well for you.

• Pump the well for several hours to reduce the cloudi-ness and contaminant levels in the water.

• Pour 4 gallons of a chlorine bleach solution into thewell. Chlorine bleach solution consists of 1 gallon ofbleach with 3 gallons of clean water. Open everyfaucet and pump the water until the water comingout of the faucet smells like chlorine, and then turnoff each faucet. If you do not smell chlorine at thefaucet, add a little more chlorine solution until thesmell is detected.

• Let the system sit for 24 hours.

• Open the faucets and run the water until the chlorinesmell disappears.

• Have the water sampled and tested. The water ISNOT safe for drinking until lab results show noindication of total coliform bacteria. You can discussthe final lab results with the lab or local parish healthunit. It is important to remember that disinfectionwill not remove chemicals which may have contami-nated your well during a flood.

Foods and Food Preparation ItemsContaminated by Flood Water

• Do not eat any food that may have come into contactwith floodwater.

• Discard all food that came in contact withfloodwaters including canned goods. It isimpossible to know if the containers were damagedand the seal compromised.

• Discard wooden cutting boards, wooden spoons,plastic utensils, baby bottle nipples and pacifers.There is no way to safely clean them if they havecome in contact with contaminated flood waters.

• Thoroughly wash metal pans, ceramic dishes andutensils with hot soapy water and sanitize by boilingthem in clean water or by immersing them for 15minutes in a solution of 1 teaspoon of chlorinebleach per quart of water.

• Clean and sanitize all kitchen surfaces, especiallythose that may have been contaminated byfloodwaters.

• Wash and sanitize your dishes, utensils and kitchenappliances before using them.

Foods Flooded While “on the vine”Discard any fruits and vegetables you did not

harvest before a flood. This applies to any food productwhich was maturing or mature at the time of the flood,both above and below ground. Examples includesquash, cabbage, broccoli, tomatoes, potatoes and

carrots. Most home garden plants will die from theflood. In the absence of specific research on the safetyof produce from a plant which was exposed to floodwater before fruit set, and given the uncertainty of whatmay have been in the floodwater, the LSU AgCenterrecommends pulling up and discarding a floodedgarden and replanting it.

You May Run into Crittersin Unusual Places

Many animals in the path of a major storm aredisplaced and left homeless. It’s common to find theseanimals seeking shelter and food in areas close topeople — in houses, storage sheds, barns and otherbuildings — and under debris. Structures damaged in astorm are particularly attractive and provide easyaccess for wildlife.

Outdoors• Watch where you place your hands and feet when

removing or cleaning debris. If possible, don’t placeyour fingers under debris you intend to move.

• Wear snake-proof boots at least 10 inches high orsnake leggings in heavy debris areas where snakesare likely to be found.

• Never step over logs or other obstacles unless youcan see the other side.

As soon as possible after a storm, remove fromaround houses and buildings all debris that providesprotective cover for displaced animals. Keep the lawnand field vegetation mowed at a low level to eliminateprotective cover. Remove any potential food sourcesuch as household trash, waste grain or other foods thatmight attract mice and rats and the snakes which preyon them.

Seal all openings around the house a quarter-inchand larger to exclude snakes and other animals. Checkweatherstripping at corners of doors and windows. Useexpanding foam sealant around water pipes andelectrical service entrances. Holes in masonryfoundations should be sealed with mortar. Holes inwooden buildings can be sealed with fine 1/8-inchmesh hardware cloth or sheet metal.

To prevent squirrels from jumping onto roofs, trimtrees near the house. Close openings to attics and eavesof houses and buildings with heavy 1/2-inch wire meshor soffit vents.

Rats, mice and squirrels are unwelcome post-stormguests. They can damage property and, in extremecases, pose a potential health problem. It’s a good ideato get rid of them.


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Natural Hazards Series: RecoveryFor Your Health and Safety Avoiding Mold Hazards

A flood-damaged building requires specialattention to avoid or correct a mold populationexplosion. Molds produce spores that float and spreadeasily through the air, forming new mold growths(colonies) when they find the right conditions –moisture, nutrients (nearly anything organic) and aplace to grow.

Mold problems can result in damage to materialsand health. The longer mold is allowed to grow, thegreater the risk and the harder it is to remedy. So assoon as the floodwaters recede and it is safe to return,don’t delay cleanup and dry out.

People are mainly exposed to mold by breathingspores or fragments, and can also be exposed throughskin contact. Wearing gloves and a mask or respiratorthat can filter mold spores (N-95 or better) isrecommended.

Although there is wide variation in how people areaffected by mold, long-term or high exposure isunhealthy for anyone. Exposure to mold can triggerallergic reactions and asthma attacks, may suppress theimmune system or have other effects. Some types ofmold can produce mycotoxins in certain conditions,which can be present in live and dead spores andfragments in the air. “Black mold” is a misleading termsince many types are black.

Mold testing is not usually needed and is rarelyuseful to answer questions about health concerns.Some insurance companies and legal services mayrequire sampling as a form of documentation.Professional mold remediation contractors may testbefore and after cleanup to provide evidence of thecleanup’s effectiveness.

To clean up mold, follow these steps and refer tothe EPA guidelines: A Brief Guide To Mold, Moisture,and Your Home or Mold Remediation In Schools andCommercial Buildings available online atwww.epa.gov/iaq):

• Isolate Work Area and Ventilate to Outdoors: Dis-turbing mold colonies can cause a massive release ofspores, so seal off the contaminated area from therest of the house. If power is on, use a fan to ex-haust air to the outdoors.

• Remove And Discard Moldy Materials: Porousmoldy or sewage-contaminated materials should beremoved, bagged and thrown away — includinggypsum wallboard, insulation, plaster, carpet/carpetpad, ceiling tiles, processed wood products andpaper. To minimize the spread of spores, covermoldy material with plastic to contain spores beforeremoving and discard it.

• Clean Surfaces: Surface mold on non-porous materi-als such as hard plastic, concrete, glass, metal andsolid wood can usually be cleaned. Cleaning mustremove, not just kill, the mold because dead sporescan still cause health problems.


Tips on Rodent Traps and Baits• Poison baits registered for rat and

mouse control contain anticoagu-lant and nonanticoagulant toxi-cants. All rodent baits are effec-tive in controlling these pests.

• Snap traps are effective in capturingnuisance rats and mice. Successful trapbaits for the trigger mechanism include bacon skin,peanut butter, oatmeal and cotton balls. Check trapseach day.

• Traps, including No. 0 or 1 leghold traps, box trapsand cage traps, will catch squirrels. Regular rat trapswill catch flying squirrels. Good baits are apple,cracked corn and pecans removed from the shell,peanut butter and sunflower seeds.

SnakesIn the South, there are many more species of

nonpoisonous snakes than poisonous snakes.

It’s important to realize both poisonous andnonpoisonous snakes are beneficial to people bykeeping rodent populations down. Since rodents arealso displaced by storms, this is especially important.

Learn to identify nonpoisonous and poisonoussnakes. Information on snake identification can beobtained from books such as field guides onamphibians and reptiles from the state wildlifedepartment or from your local LSU AgCenter Office.

If you encounter a snake outdoors, step back andallow it to proceed on its way. Snakes usually moveslowly, and a person can easily retreat from a snake’spath. If you find a snake in your house, try to isolatethe snake within a small area of the house.

Nonpoisonous snakes can be captured by pinningthem down with a long stick or pole, preferably forkedat one end, and then scooping them up with a flat-bladeshovel. If you are uncomfortable removing the snakeyourself, seek someone within the community who hasexperience handling snakes to do it for you. A goodstarting point is your local animal control shelter orsheriff’s department.

As a last resort, you may need to kill a poisonoussnake. Club it with a long stick, rod or other tool suchas a garden hoe. Never try to kill a poisonous snakewith an instrument that brings you within the snake’sstriking range (usually estimated at less than one-halfthe total length of the snake).

No legal toxicants or fumigants are registered to killsnakes. Repellents are available, but they have limitedsuccess.

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After cleaning, you may choose to use a disinfectantto kill any mold missed by the cleaning. In the caseof sewage contamination, disinfection must beperformed. Contact your local health department forappropriate advice.

On color-fast, non-metal surfaces, you may disinfectwith a solution of 1/4 to 1/2 cup bleach per gallon ofwater. Do not use in the air system. Milder, lesscorrosive disinfectants include alcohols, disinfectingcleaners and hydrogen peroxide. Always handlewith caution, never mix bleach with ammonia andtest on a small area before treatment.

• Speed Dry: Dry all wet materials as quickly aspossible. Use air conditioning or heat with fans anddehumidifiers, if possible. New mold colonies canform in as little as three days if materials stay wet.Wood and other materials that may look dry can stillbe wet enough to support regrowth.

• Remain on Mold Alert: Continue looking for signsof moisture or new mold growth. If mold returns,repeat cleaning and consider using speed dryingequipment and moisture meters. Regrowth maysignal that the material was not dry enough orshould be removed. Rebuilding and refurnishingshould wait until all affected materials have driedcompletely.

These are Trying TimesA natural disaster leaves more than a trail of

property destruction in its wake. Many times it leavesthousands of victims with a destroyed sense ofbalance. In addition to avoiding physical hazards,restoring buildings and replacing material possessionsduring the recovery period, you need to be aware ofstress and how to reduce it. During the recoveryperiod, devote some time to getting your stress levelunder control.

Start by being patient with yourself and others.Don’t expect things to restore themselves instantly.Focus on the big picture instead of the little details.Determine what’s really important, and keep in mindthat different people, even in your own household, willhave different priorities. Be tolerant of mood swingsand expressions of disbelief, anger, sadness, anxietyand depression. Don’t overlook the feelings ofchildren.


Tips for Handling Stress• Try to keep your body healthy and strong.

Keep your family’s diet as nourishing aspossible.

• Talk with friends, family, ministers. In crisissituations, a supportive network is essential.Provide help to other families when possible;it will make both of you feel better.

• Resist the temptation to resort to bad habits.Alcohol, blaming, denial, smoking, overeat-ing and revenge eventually cause moreproblems than they solve.

• Think positive. Develop a sense that thingswill work out.

• Make time for rest and relaxation.

Helping Your Child CopeChildren cope with stress

every day. One of their biggeststressors is fear. Children’s fourmajor fears are death, darkness,animals and being abandoned.Children have a variety of fears:being afraid of the dark or the doctor or the vacuumcleaner, for instance. Disasters are somewhat differentfor children because they affect entire communities.Disaster is highly publicized and children sense thatadults, too, seem to be afraid. So, it is normal forchildren to remain stressed and have a hard time copingfor a long time after a disaster.

Even children who have not been in the disastermay be afraid and worried that it will happen to them.Young children are usually worried because they don’tunderstand what is happening. They can’t always tellthe difference between what is real and what is pretend.Schoolchildren are worried for a different reason. Theycan tell the difference, but don’t yet fully understandthe laws of probability. They understand what causes astorm but may expect disasters or storms to reappearsoon and often.

It’s hard to predict which children will be mostaffected and how. Research indicates children’s fearsvary according to age, maturation and previouslearning experiences. In a disaster, children may haveencountered three of the four major fears. Undoubtedly,this will have an impact on their ability to cope forquite some time.

Another important aspect about children’s fearsindicated in research is that fears may be intensifiedwhen adults back away from discussing painful topicswith children. Many families ban all painful topics from

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family conversation. Such strategies reap high costs interms of intensified despair and negativity amongchildren. Talk to the children about the disaster andtheir fears.

After a disaster, some children may:

• be upset at the loss of a favorite toy, blanket, teddybear, etc.

• be angry. They may hit, throw, kick or act out inother ways.

• become more active and restless. They may wanderabout and not be able to settle down.

• be afraid of the disaster recurring. This is especiallytrue if there is another storm or heavy rain soon.They may ask repeatedly, “Will it come again?”

• be afraid to be left alone or afraid to sleep alone.Children may want to sleep with a parent or anotherperson. They may have nightmares.

• behave as they did when younger (sucking thethumb, wetting the bed, asking for a bottle, wantingto be held).

• have symptoms of illness such as nausea, vomiting,headaches, not wanting to eat, running a fever.

• be quiet and withdrawn, not wanting to talk aboutwhat happened to them.

• become upset easily - crying and whining.

• feel guilty that they caused the disaster because ofsomething they did.

• feel neglected by parents who are busy trying toclean up and rebuild their lives and homes.

• refuse to go to school or to child care. The childmay not want to be out of the parent’s sight.

• become afraid of loud noises, rain, storms.

• not show any outward sign of being upset. Somechildren may never show distress because they donot feel upset. Other children may not give anyevidence of being upset until several weeks ormonths later.

What parents and other adults can do to help childrencope with feelings:

Talk openly about what is going on. Give simple,direct answers to questions. Children have radar. Theyknow when adults are afraid or worried and not tellingthem the truth. They hear other adults talk. It doesn’thelp to tell a child “not to worry” yet show all the signs


of worrying yourself. Take time to talk openly, honestlyand often.

Listen to your child. Watch your child at play.Often children express fear and anger when playingwith dolls, trucks or friends after a major disaster.Acknowledge the child’s feelings, and encourageconversation.

Reassure your child, “We are together. We careabout you. We will take care of you.”

Hold your child. Provide comfort. Touching isimportant for children during this period. Closecontact helps assure children that you are there forthem and will not abandon them

Spend extra time putting your child to bed. Talkand offer assurance. Leave a nightlight on if that makesthe child feel more secure.

Help “act out” with books, art, toys and drama.Work with claydough, paint, water play. If childrenneed something to kick or hit, give them somethingsafe like a pillow, ball or balloon.

If your child lost a special toy or blanket, allow himto mourn and grieve (by crying, perhaps). It is all partof helping the young child cope with feelings aboutdisaster. In time, it may be helpful to replace the lostobject.

For more information, contact your local LSUAgCenter Office listed under local government in thetelephone directory.

“This material is based upon work supported by theCooperative State Research, Education, and ExtensionService, U.S. Department of Agriculture, under specialproject numbers 92-ESNP-1-5184 and 96-ESNP-1-5219.”

Contributors:Patricia M. Skinner, Extension Associate, Disaster

Education

Beth Reames, Ph.D., Professor, Nutrition & FoodSafety

Claudette Reichel, Ph.D., Professor, Housing Specialist

James F. Fowler, Ph.D. (retired)

Fred E. (Gene) Baker, Ph.D. (retired)

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One of the first things to go in a natural disaster iselectrical service. You may suffer an outage even if youescape all other aspects of a storm, but it doesn’t take adisaster to disrupt your service. An automobile accidentor fallen tree may take out your power. The powercompany itself may suffer an equipment failure.Generally, these localized problems can be correctedbefore you need to take any action.

It is generally a good idea to turn off airconditioners, heaters and other appliances while thepower is off. Otherwise, they will try to come ontogether when power is restored, and your circuitsbreakers or fuses may blow. Unplugging applianceswill also protect them from power cycles and surgeswhich may accompany restoration of electrical service.

Your primary concern with a prolonged poweroutage during the summer is usually knowing whetherthe food stored in refrigerators and freezers is safe. Inseverely hot weather, the loss of electric fans may alsobe life threatening. In severely cold weather, trying tostay warm and prevent freeze damage will be ofconcern.

If the power is off or will be off for an extendedperiod, the information on these pages may help.

Using Generators forElectrical Power

Emergency generators become popular afterdisasters. They can help save food in freezers andrefrigerators, but they also may be dangerous if notused properly.

The capacity of a generator is usually stated inwatts. For example, you may have a 2,000-wattgenerator. This is the same as a 2-kilowatt (K.W.)generator, because 1,000 watts is equal to 1 K.W.

Watts is an electrical term determined bymultiplying volts times amps. For example, if anappliance requires 120 volts and uses 10 amps, thisappliance requires 1,200 watts. This information is onthe nameplate of the appliance. By this formula, youcan determine what you can run on your generator. Forexample, an appliance that requires 1,200 watts andone requiring 600 watts could be run on a 2,000-wattgenerator. However, appliances with motors requiremore current to start than they do after they arerunning. A suggestion is to start a refrigerator, allow itto begin running and then plug in another appliance.

Generator Tips

• Gasoline engines produce carbon monoxide. Don’trun them in an enclosed area.

• Check the oil level in the engine before using andon a regular basis (for example when refueling).

• Let the engine cool off before refueling.

• The generator should be kept a safe distance fromstructures because of engine heat.

• Place the generator on a level surface to keep oil atproper level in engine.

• Water will damage generators as well as producean electrical hazard, so keep the generator dry.

• A voltage drop may occur if too long an extensioncord is connected to the appliance or if one withtoo small a wire size is used. If the extension cordbecomes very warm, it is inadequate.

• Connect the generator directly to the appliance.

• You should not try to hook generators to yourelectrical supply box.

• Ground the generator as stated in the instructions.If you use an extension cord, use one with aground plug.

• Have the generator running before the A.C. circuiton the generator is turned on or before you plug inthe appliance.

• An appliance that has a heating element, such as atoaster or hair dryer, consumes a large amount ofcurrent. It’s best to avoid using these types ofitems.

• If an appliance has gotten wet or damaged, it maynot be in good working order. Using the appliancemay damage the generator.

• Some generators have the ability to produce 115/120 volts or 220 volts. Select the outlet that corre-sponds to the voltage requirement of the appliance.

Surviving and RecoveringFrom a Power OutageNatural Hazards Series: Recovery - Part 2


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Play it Safe With Food

Preparing for a Power OutageAfter a disaster, electrical power may be disrupted

for hours, sometimes days. There are things you cando to prepare for an outage which may extend the lifeof foods in your refrigerator or freezer.

• Keep an appliance thermometer in the refrigeratorand freezer. An appliance thermometer will indicatethe temperature in the refrigerator and freezer in caseof a power outage and help determine the safety ofthe food.

• Make sure the freezer is at or below 0° F and therefrigerator is at or below 40° F.

• Freeze containers (such as milk cartons) of water forice to help keep food cold in the freezer, refrigeratoror coolers after the power is out.

• Freeze refrigerated items such as leftovers, milk andfresh meat and poultry that you may not needimmediately. This helps keep them at a safe tempera-ture longer.

• Plan ahead and know where dry ice and block icecan be purchased.

• Have coolers on hand to keep refrigerator food coldif the power will be out for more than four hours.Purchase or make ice cubes and store in the freezerfor use in the refrigerator or in a cooler. Freeze gelpacks ahead of time for use in coolers.

• Group food together in the freezer. This helps thefood stay cold longer.

• Separate raw meat and poultry items from otherfoods. Place them on the bottom shelf. If raw meatand poultry begin to thaw, this will prevent theirjuices from getting onto other foods.

During Power OutageFollowing these steps will help keep food safe

during power outages or when the freezer orrefrigerator is not working:

• Keep the refrigerator and freezer doors closed asmuch as possible to maintain the low temperature.

• The refrigerator will keep food safely cold for aboutfour hours if it is unopened. A full freezer will holdthe temperature for approximately 48 hours (24hours if it is half-full and the door remains closed.)

• Obtain dry or block ice to keep your refrigerator andfreezer as cold as possible if the power is going to beout for a prolonged period of time. Fifty pounds ofdry ice should hold an 18-cubic-foot full freezer fortwo days. CAUTION: Never touch dry ice with yourbare hands or breathe the fumes. Place the dry iceon cardboard or on empty shelves in the freezeraround the items to be kept frozen.

• Cook and eat any raw meat, fish or poultry productsstored in the refrigerator by the second day of thepower failure on an outdoor charcoal or gas grill.

After a Power OutageThere are certain precautions you should take

before you begin using food from refrigerators andfreezers that have been off for more than a few hours.

• Never taste a food to determine its safety!

• Food may be safely refrozen if it still contains icecrystals or is at 40° F or below. Check the tempera-ture of the freezer with an appliance thermometer orfood thermometer. If the food still contains icecrystals or is at 40° F or below, the food is safe.

• If a thermometer has not been kept in the freezer,check each package of food to determine its safety.If the food still contains ice crystals, the food is safe.

• Raw meats and poultry, cheese, juices, breads andpastries can be refrozen without losing a lot ofquality. Prepared foods, fish, vegetables and fruitscan be refrozen safely, but quality may suffer. Markthese to be used as soon as possible.

• Food that contains ice crystals or is at 40° F or belowmay also be cooked and served or frozen aftercooking.

• Remember that seafood will be among the first tothaw and will need attention first. Also, ground meatis likely to spoil before other meats.

• Food that was held above 40° F for more than twohours generally should be discarded becausebacteria may multiply to unsafe levels under theseconditions. The only foods that can be refrozenunder these conditions are well-wrapped hard andprocessed cheeses, butter and margarine, breads andpastries without custard fillings, fruits and fruit juicesthat look and smell acceptable.

• Vegetables held above 40° F for less than six hoursmay be refrozen, but with quality loss. Pecans andother nuts may be refrozen safely but may sufferquality loss.

When the refrigerator is operating again, use theseguidelines to decide what to do with foods that werestored in the refrigerator:

• Discard refrigerated perishable food such as meat,poultry, fish, soft cheeses, milk, eggs, leftovers anddeli items after four hours without power.

• Condiments such as ketchup, mustard, pickles,relishes, picante sauce, vinegar-based salad dress-ings, Worcestershire sauce and steak sauces shouldbe fine. Discard opened mayonnaise, tartar sauce,and horseradish if above 50° F for over eight hours.Jams, jellies, preserves and syrups are all rightbecause sugar serves as a preservative. Check formold growth.


12

• Hard cheese will be OK, and if the temperaturehasn’t gotten too warm inside the refrigerator, blocksor slices of processed cheese can also be used. Well-wrapped butter and margarine can usually be kept aslong as they do not melt, but should be discarded ifrancid odors develop. Keep unopened packages ofcream cheese, but discard if they are moldy whenopened.

• Fresh fruits and vegetables are safe as long as they’restill firm and there’s no evidence of mold, a yeastysmell or sliminess. Juices are safe as long as there’sno evidence of mold growth and they look and smellacceptable. Cut fruit should be discarded if above40° F for more than 2 hours.

• Pecans, other nuts, peanuts and peanut butter alsoare safe.

How to Cook Whenthe Power Goes Off

After a disaster has knockedout electricity or gas lines, cookingmeals can be a problem and can behazardous if a few basic rules are not followed.

Charcoal or gas grills are the most obviousalternative sources of heat for cooking. Never use themindoors. In doing so, you risk both asphyxiation fromcarbon monoxide and the chance of starting a fire thatcould destroy your home.

• Camp stoves that use liquid or solid fuel shouldalways be used outdoors.

• Use small electrical appliances to prepare meals ifyou have access to an electrical generator and thegenerator has sufficient capacity. Do not use anappliance that has been flooded until it has beenchecked for shorted circuitry.

• You can use wood for cooking in many situations.You can cook in a fireplace if the chimney is sound.

• If you have to build a fire outside, build it away frombuildings, never in a carport. Sparks can easily getinto the ceiling and start a house fire.

• Never use gasoline to get a wood or charcoal firestarted.

• Do not use “treated” wood as fuel for a cooking fire.

• Make sure any fire is well contained. A metal drumor stones around the fire bed are good precautions. Acharcoal grill is a good place in which to build awood fire. Be sure to put out any fire when you arethrough with it.

• When cooking is not possible, some canned foodcan be eaten cold. Or it can be warmed over cannedheat or candles.

• Never leave any open fire, canned heat or candleunattended. Keep children away at all times.

Removing Odorsfrom Refrigerator and Freezer

If food has thawed in your refrigerator or freezer,you are probably facing an odor problem that hangs oneven after the spoiled food is gone. Getting rid of thisodor is likely to take time, patience and a combinationof techniques.

If the refrigerator has been flooded it should bereplaced.

Empty, Clean and Disinfect• Remove all food, unplug appliance and take out all

removable parts. Empty the defrost water disposalpan (if it has one).

• Wash each part thoroughly with hot water anddetergent. Rinse with a disinfectant solution (1teaspoon chlorine bleach for each gallon of water).

• Wash the inside, including doors and gaskets, with asolution of hot water and baking soda. Rinse withdisinfectant solution.

• Do not mix ammonia and chlorine solutions! Thiscombination gives off toxic fumes.

Note: If garbage pickup is not expected soon, buryspoiled foods to help avoid attracting animals,insects and to reduce odors.

Air it OutLeave the door open for

at least 15 minutes to airout. If you had a longpower outage, this probablywon’t be enough.

If odor remains,repeatedly heat and ventilatethe inside walls. Warm theinside walls with a portable convection heater (one thatblows warm air), hair dryer or hot air popcorn popper.Do not use a heat source that can damage, and do notleave the heater unattended.

Then turn off the heat and ventilate with a portablefan until the inside walls are cool.

Repeat this process for several hours or until theodor is almost gone.

If some odor remains, activated charcoal filters or atray of loose activated carbon will absorb persistentodors. Look for it at drugstores, appliance servicecompanies and hardware stores.

If you can’t find activated carbon, you can usecrushed charcoal (the kind used for barbecue grills),but it will not be as effective. Large servicingcompanies may recommend chemical deodorizers thatare stronger than charcoal and last several months.Foods should be covered if such chemicals are used.


13

Spread about 3 ounces of the fine poweredcharcoal on a sheet of aluminum foil or in a shallowpan, and place on the refrigerator or freezer shelf.

If possible, run your freezer with nothing but thecarbon in it for a couple of days.

After 6 or 8 hours, heat the pan of loose charcoal ina moderate (350 degrees F) oven to reactivate thecarbon so it can be reused. Put the charcoal back in therefrigerator and freezer. Repeat the process until theodor disappears.

Store Food in Sealed Containersor Wrappings

Keep boxes or bowls of baking soda in therefrigerator. Even if traces of the odor remain, sealedfood will not be affected.

Refrigerate and freeze all food in sealed containersor secured freezer wrappings. When you take out apackage, remove wrappings as soon as possible, anddispose of them immediately.

If Nothing Works If all these efforts don’t seem to help much, there

may have been seepage into the walls of the freezer orrefrigerator. If the insulation has gotten wet, theappliance may have to be discarded eventually becauseit may not only have persistent bad odors, but may alsorun continuously or frost up on the outside because ofthe ruined insulation. In some cases, it may be feasibleto replace the wet insulation, but for most, a newenergy-efficient refrigerator or freezer may be morecost effective.

Power Outagein Winter

With so many peopleaccustomed to heating withelectrical energy, the loss ofpower in winter presents problems of stayingwarm and keeping the household plumbing fromfreezing. The principal alternative heat source is fire,which must be used safely and with caution, or it, too,becomes a hazard.

If you have suffered a power outage in severelycold weather, your alternative heat probably will not beadequate to heat the entire dwelling. If the temperaturewill be very low for an extended period, it may beadvisable to drain interior water pipes that would havebeen kept from freezing by the household heat.

Keeping Yourself Warm• Dress in layers of loose, light-weight, warm clothing.

• Eat and drink adequately. Food provides the bodywith energy and heat. Fluids prevent dehydration.

• Avoid alcoholic drinks. Although they make you feelwarmer, they actually make you more susceptible tohypothermia.

• Don’t ignore the signs of hypothermia. If you’reshivering uncontrollably, stumbling around, havingtrouble talking, and feeling drowsy and exhausted,get help.

Heating the Living Space• Heat only the area you are staying in; close off

rooms you’re not using. If you’re using a fuel-burning space heater that isn’t vented to the outdoorsthrough a pipe or chimney, provide proper ventila-tion. Open a window slightly, and leave the door tothe room open. Be sure to use the proper fuel for theheater.

• Use only seasoned (dry) hardwoods in the fireplace.Make sure the damper is open as long as any embersare smoldering; close it when the fireplace is not inuse to keep hot air from escaping up the chimney.

• Never use stoves, crawfish boilers, ovens or othercooking appliances for home heating. These canproduce a lot of carbon monoxide. Since they’re notdesigned for continuous operation, using them forheating may also create a fire hazard.

• Use window drapes to insulate windows at night andopen to let sunshine in in the daytime.

• Don’t let children play around heaters. They may getburned or topple the heater.

• Keep flammable materials at least 3 feet from heat-ers.

• Keep a fire extinguisher handy.

For more information, contact your local LSUAgCenter office listed under local government in thetelephone directory.

“This material is based upon work supported by theCooperative State Research, Education, and ExtensionService, U.S. Department of Agriculture, under specialproject number 92-ESNP-1-5184 and 96-ESNP-1-5219.”

Contributors:Lynn Hannaman, Ph.D., Professor, Engineering

Claudette Reichel, Ed.D., Professor, Housing Specialist

Patricia M. Skinner, Extension Associate, DisasterEducation

Evva Z. Wilson, Ph.D. (retired)

Ruth Patrick, Ph.D. (retired)

Donna Montgomery (retired)


14

DeterminingStructural Damage

Once calm has returnedafter a storm or flood, it’s timeto assess the damage andbegin repairs. A number offactors should be considered, and the followinginformation may be helpful.

Damage to StructuresDamage to structures in many cases is obvious, but

damage that is not clearly seen may cause problemsalso.

Look for wood structural members that are cracked,and remember these can be hard to detect. Structuralbracing may not be secured as tightly as originally. Ifdoors or windows do not open as they did before thestorm, this may indicate the structure has shifted. Incase of severe shifting, water lines, gas lines andelectrical circuits may have been damaged.

If wetness occurred because of leaking roofs, lookfor wet electrical circuits, wet insulation and otherwater damage to the interior of the structure. Onceinsulation becomes wet in a wall or attic, it must bereplaced. Wall insulation that is sealed within thestructure will not dry out.

Structures that use a roof truss system should becarefully inspected. In many cases, truss systems areconstructed of 2 x 4s and metal fasteners. Any crack orbreak in the truss will greatly affect the strength of thetruss system.

Repair or Replace?Damaged structures can be our homes, equipment

storage buildings, barns and other outbuildings. Careand consideration should be given to their restoration.Appropriate measures vary with the type, age andcondition of the structure. Often, the structure shouldbe removed rather than rebuilt. The structural integrityof the building should be assessed, and if the decisionis made to repair, additional bracing may be requiredbefore repairs begin.

In some communities, repair of damaged buildingsmay require a building permit. Even in communitieswithout general permitting, permits may be required inspecial flood hazard areas. Check with your localbuilding official or permit office before beginning orcontracting for repairs.

There are a number of ways to repair homes sothey will be less susceptible to flood and wind damage.These include elevation of utility systems andappliances, as well as the use of flood-resistantmaterials at levels in the structure which are likely toflood. There are flood-resistant materials for flooring,walls, wall covering and insulation. There are alsomaterials for sealing the building itself, whenfloodwaters do not exceed 30 inches. The AmericanRed Cross publication “Against the Wind” detailssimple methods of adding extra bracing in key areas tostrengthen buildings so they’ll withstand high winds.

RestoringStorm-Damaged BuildingsNatural Hazards Series: Recovery - Part 3

Checking Outsidefor Structural Damage

• Make sure the building is not in danger ofcollapsing. Look for bulges, sways, leaningwalls and sagging roof lines.

• Check the roof. The roof is a very goodindicator of the presence of structuraldamage. Look at the ridge of the roof, andassess whether it is straight. This can beviewed from a distance better than close up.If the ridge sags either on the end or in themiddle, the load-bearing walls have shifted.

• Check the walls to verify that they arevertical and straight. This normally can bedone by eye or with a carpenter’s level.

• Check where the structure meets its founda-tion. If the house is on piers, look at theindividual piers and see that they remain inplane and level. Whether it is on a slab oron piers, check to see that the building hasnot shifted on its foundation. Floodedwooden floors, if they do not buckle, willsometimes push walls outward at the base.

• Check for cracks in masonry exteriors ofthe building. Look near the corners of thestructures and under and around doors andwindows.

If any of these indicators of structuraldamage are observed, it is advisable to call alicensed building contractor, inspector orengineer. A professional needs to furtherassess the building for its safety and determinethe required repairs. These indicators alsoshould be pointed out to the insuranceadjusters.


15

Entering the Building• Turn off any outside gas lines at the meter or tank,

and let the house air for several minutes to removefoul odors or escaping gas.

• Turn off the main electrical breaker until safe condi-tions are established. If the main disconnect is insidethe house, it would be wise to call your utilitycompany for assistance. Even if power is out in yourneighborhood, disconnect the main switch, fuse orcircuit breaker at your home, and disconnect allcircuits. Unplug all appliances that have beenflooded.

• Enter cautiously. Do not smoke. Don’t use a flame asa light source.

• Check for sagging ceilings; wet insulation andpocketed water can cause ceilings to fall.

Turning off the Electricity• Stand on a dry spot when working with electrical

boxes and panels.

• If you have to step in water to get to the circuit orfuse box, call an electrician; do not try to turn off thepower yourself.

• Use a dry stick to open panel doors and throwswitches whenever possible. Use caution whenremoving fuses (can’t be done with a stick).

Preliminary RepairsAny temporary structural repairs that can be made

will require some creativity since there’s likely to be ashortage of materials. The most common repairs willinvolve nailing plywood or taping heavy plastic tobroken windows, ceiling and walls.

If the building has shifted or the floors have settledbadly, it may be necessary to install temporary bracinguntil extensive work can be done. To prevent floodedwooden floors from buckling and warping further,remove a board every few feet.

Cover damaged roof sections with heavy plastic orroofing felt anchored in place with wooden boards tohelp prevent leaks until permanent repairs can bemade. Be especially cautious; damaged roofing can beloose or slippery.

Inside, remove any mud and debris while it is stillmoist.

Where freshwater flooding has occurred, removecovers from all outlets and fuses or multibreaker boxesafter determining that power is not on. Flush with cleanwater to remove any buildup of sediment. Let dry, andspray with contact cleaner/ lubricant. Saltwater floodingwill require replacement of outlets, breakers andcontrols. The wiring possibly can be reused after beingchecked by an electrician.

Dry Well to Prevent DecayIf your home was flooded, it must be cleaned and

dried thoroughly to prevent mildew and future damageby wood rot. Areas wetted by clean rainwater, forinstance from a leaking roof, do not need to be cleanedor disinfected. All wet areas must be allowed to drythoroughly.


Safety• See “Be Safe” section on avoiding mold hazards.• For safety, wear a dust mask and protective

clothing on legs, arms, feet and hands whilecleaning up debris. When handling moldy orcontaminated material, wear a respirator.

• Wear rubber gloves while scrubbing flood-damaged interiors and furniture.

• Buildings constructed in the ’70s and earlier mayhave lead-based paint. Sanding or scraping thispaint creates a serious health hazard. Beforeworking with suspected lead-based paint, getmore information from LSU AgCenter or visitwww.epa.gov/lead.

Remove wet carpets, carpet pads and rugs within48 hours. Disinfect the slab. You may be able torestore valuable carpets and rugs, but you shouldalways replace carpet pads.

Remove vinyl flooring over wood subfloors if thereappear to be water bubbles between the vinyl andsubfloor immediately after the flood has receded.Disinfect the subfloor. Drying without a dehumidifiermay take weeks. A buckled subfloor may flatten outon drying; be patient.

For wood floors, carefully remove a board everyfew feet to reduce buckling. Leave open until theflooring is dry.

Wet fibrous insulation will not dry out. Thestructure can be damaged by wood decay as a result.In addition, the moisture held in a wall cavity cancreate health problems with the growth of molds andmildew.• Check inside exterior walls and attic for wet insula-

tion. Remove all wet insulation, even if it meanscutting into walls. Fibrous insulation should bereplaced with new material - either the same type orfoam sheets. Using foam sheets will eliminate theneed to replace insulation in the next flood.

• Wash the insides of walls with mild soap, and rinsewith clean water. Spray on disinfecting solution.Allow wetted areas to dry thoroughly before install-ing the new insulation. This may take four to sixweeks without a dehumidifier.

• Paneled walls may be repaired by prying the panel-ing loose at the bottom. Remove any wet insulation;wash and disinfect the wall cavity. Hold the bottomof the paneling away from the sill until the sill, studsand paneling have dried - about four to six weeks.

16

• Remove loose plaster, wallboard and wet ceilingtiles. Badly damaged plaster walls can be resurfacedwith drywall. Repair damaged walls and ceilingsonly after the house is completely dry.

• Remove all vinyl wallpaper and do not replace it. Ina warm climate, walls should be able to dry to theinside. New drywall should be finished with latexpaint or porous paper.

• Open closet and cabinet doors. Remove drawers fordrying and to let air circulate. With care in drying,these may be reused, depending on the materials.

• Continuously air-condition or heat the space duringdry-out. Use fans to circulate the air. A dehumidifierwill speed the drying process.

Flooding andDamage-causing Pests

The severity of a pest problem following a storm orflood depends on the time of year and where, in theseasonal cycle of the pest, the disaster occurs.

TermitesFlooding may leach some termiticides

from treated soil or materials. If soil isdeposited along the foundation of a house,it will provide a bridge for termites to goaround the treated soil. Eliminate allsources of water and wood-to-soil contact.These conditions are conducive to termiteinfestations. Any damage to foundations orfooting can result in termite infestations. Termites canenter buildings through cracks only 1/32-inch wide.

Wood debris of any kind will eventually attracttermites. Termites are extremely important in recyclingwood. Wood is composed of cellulose, and feworganisms can break it down. We want termites torecycle wood, but we don’t want them recycling ourhomes.

Get the house inspected within six months after amajor flood. Contact your pest control company beforedisturbing the soil around the foundation or installing adrainage system around a home. Your actions may voidyour termite contract.

Don’t be pressured into getting ANY pest controltreatments done quickly if you are unsure of what youare being told. When in doubt, contact the LouisianaDepartment of Agriculture and Forestry - Structural PestControl Commission.

Boring Insects and FungiMoisture problems in a crawlspace can lead to

other problems, such as wood-boring beetles andwood-decaying fungi in floor joists. Wood-decayingfungi will not grow below 20% wood moisture content,however, and the likelihood of problems withpowderpost beetles and old house borers decreases asthe wood moisture decreases to 14% or less.

Repairing the RoofAfter a Storm

Under the multiple pressures ofshortages of time and findingskilled or reputable workers,materials, etc., it may be temptingto take short cuts on roof repairs, but remember that adepreciated home and future expensive trouble cancome with such a decision. Repairs now, while thedamage is clearly linked to the storm, may be coveredby insurance or other assistance. Later, when problemsreappear, you may bear those repair costs alone.

When considering roof repair, assess the conditionof the roofing materials. If your shingles are nearingthe end of the warranty period, you may want toreplace the roof rather than patch it, and make it moreresistant to damage in further events.

A Word of CautionBefore getting on the roof to do repairs,

inspect the rafters for breaks and sags.

• Remember that electrical wiring is runthrough the attic; be sure the power is offbefore entering the attic space for the firsttime.

• Even without a disaster, the attic can be adangerous place. Nail tips are left exposedand there can be numerous rough edgeswhich could cause injury.

• When you do get on the roof, be verycareful. The slope of the roof presents ahazard; in addition, a damaged roof mayhave loose shingles, exposed nails or otherfeatures which could lead to injury. Whenworking on steep inclines, use a safetyharness.

A common roof consists of three layers ofmaterials: sheathing, roofing felt and an outerlayer of shingles, metal panels or non-metallicpanels. Sheathing is nailed to rafters beforethe felt and shingles or panels are applied.The felt is the layer which waterproofs theroof; it is important to overlap the layersproperly so water runs over a lower course,not under it. Shingles or panels protect thefelt from physical damage but don’t really sealthe structure against rain.


17

RaftersIf you have broken rafters or ridge beams, they

must be repaired first. The size of the area damageddictates proper procedures. One or two broken rafterscan be repaired by using a scab-and-prop method. Ifthree or more adjacent rafters are broken, it may beadvisable to replace them. Replacing rafters mayrequire removal of undamaged shingles, felt andsheathing along the length of the rafter to be replaced.

Check with the local permit office to find out whatinspection or permitting requirements or building codesmust be met.

To repair a broken rafter using a scab method,place a new rafter alongside the broken one and nailthem together at several points. A scab should runapproximately 4 ft. on each side of the break. A scabcan be used to repair a truss rafter. In a truss, the scabmust cover the broken rafter element and the pointswhere that element is attached to other elements. Thesize of wood used for repairs should be the same sizeas the wood broken or larger (but never smaller).

Broken or severely damaged rafters are seldom asstrong after repairs. Further strengthening may beachieved by adding support braces between therafter(s) and the ceiling joist(s) below. Run two bracesfrom each repaired rafter: one from the rafter scab tothe point on the joist where it crosses a load-bearingwall and one to the joist below (see diagram). If theattachment point for a brace is not over a load-bearingwall, the joist should be reinforced with a "strongback."The strongback is constructed of one 2x4 and one 2x6plank nailed together at right angles; it is nailed to theceiling joist and extends across several joists on bothsides of the damaged area.

SheathingIf you have limited damage to the roof decking that

can be repaired without total removal, replace damagedsheathing with panels of the same thickness as thatused on the rest of the roof. Attach the new sheathingand re-nail the existing sheathing to all rafters or trusseswith 8d ring shank nails spaced every 6 inches.

If you replace all the sheathing, strengthen yourroof by using 40/20 rated roof deck sheathing(plywood or OSB) with a minimum thickness of 19/32inches and a nailing pattern of 8d ring shank nailsevery 4 inches on all panels along a gable end, and 6inches apart everywhere else. Make sure joints areplaced over rafters and nails don’t miss the rafters.


Scab

BrokenRafter

2" x 6"Rafter

2" x 6"BraceStrongback

2" x6"

Ceiling

2" x6"

2" x4"

Roof Underlayment and CoveringsConsider sealing roof-sheathing joints with a self-

adhered asphalt/rubber tape (modified bitumen) at least4 inches wide to provide a secondary moisture barrier.An alternative that offers even greater protection is toapply a peel-and-stick roof membrane over the entireroof deck in place of joint tape and roofing felt.

Otherwise, roofing underlayment may consist ofeither a single layer of #30 felt with a minimum 2-inchoverlap, or two layers of 15# felt installed inaccordance with manufacturer’s instructions. Bothmethods require a minimum 6-inch lap at ends.Flashings must be installed to maintain a shingle-typelayering with the underlayment so water flows over andnot under them.

Select a high wind rated roof covering (shingles,metal, etc.) and, regardless of type, ensure that it isinstalled in accordance with the manufacturer’srecommendations for high wind regions. Look forroofing that meets the standards: ASTM D 3161enhanced, or UL 2390 for wind resistance and UL2218 for impact resistance.

18

Strengthen Weak Points

Soffits and Gable EndsSoffits in hurricane-affected areas tend to fail, often

due to improper installation. At a minimum, make surethat the contractor installs soffit materials according tothe approved installation requirements. Alternativesinclude using plywood or fiber cement soffits with slotsfor ventilation securely anchored to wood framingmembers.

Hip roofs are more wind resistant than gable roofs.For homes with gable roofs, bracing should be installedin the attic to resist the damaging force of strong windson gable end walls. For more details on bracing gablewalls and other protections, visit www.ibhs.org


Roof to Wall to Foundation ConnectionsYour home is as strong as its weakest link. To

make sure the roof stays in place during a severe storm,anchor the roof to the wall with hurricane straps overeach rafter (if sheathing is removed), or if that’s notfeasible, with hurricane clips at every wall-to-rafterconnection. If the walls are opened for repair, consideralso adding metal hurricane connectors that tie thestuds to the bottom plate, and the bottom plate to thefoundation (such as epoxy-set anchor bolts into theslab).

Gable Roof

Hipped Roof

Opening ProtectionsWhen wind-borne debris breaks windows or doors,

the inside air pressure buildup can cause majorstructural damage. To avoid the rush to board up duringeach storm warning, consider installing impact-resistantshutters or replacement windows, doors, garage doorsand attachment hardware. Standard double-widegarage doors are especially vulnerable to wind damage.Look for products that have met recognized productapproval systems such as SBCCI SSTD 12, ASTM E1186 and ASTM E 1996, or Miami-Dade Protocols PA201, PA 202 and PA 203.

Typical WallConnections: Studspacing differentfrom truss/rafterspacing.

For more information on disaster-resistantbuilding techniques and systems, get the La. Extensionpublication, Building Your Louisiana Home:Homeowners Guide through your parish LSU AgCenteroffice or from www.LouisianaHouse.org, and visitwww.flash.org, www.ibhs.org orwww.blueprintforsafety.org

If you have experienced structural damage, it islikely you’ll need to engage one or more contractors tomake repairs. Information on selecting a contractor,what should be in a contract and consumer protectionis given in Part 6 of this series, “Financial Recoveryand Risk Management.”

Contact your local LSU AgCenter office listedunder local government in the telephone directory orwww.lsuagcenter.com


Contributors:Claudette Reichel, Ed.D., Professor, Housing Specialist

Pat Skinner, Extension Associate, Disaster Education

Dennis Ring, Ph.D., Associate Professor, Entomology


19

Caring for Large ElectricalAppliances

Appliances wet by floodwater or by rainwater afterroofs were damaged willneed extreme care beforereuse. This care will beimportant if the life of theappliance is to be extendedand for the safety of the user.

Appliances submerged by floodwaters, particularlysaltwater, are often not repairable. Appliances that havebeen wet by rainwater and not flooded are oftenrepairable. It is always desirable to have these repairsmade by a reputable service person. Followingdisasters, however, individuals who have these skillsoften are very busy, and the owner of the appliancemay find it necessary to make repairs.

Remember that an appliance damaged by water cansometimes be made functional, but will probably havea shortened life expectancy. Depending on the age andcondition of the appliance before it was damaged bywater, and considering the danger of personal injuryfrom improper repairs, it may be advisable to replacethe appliance rather than repair it.

Many small appliances, including television sets,microwave ovens and radios, are more electronic thanelectrical. The tips offered in this fact sheet do notapply to electronic repairs. Most small appliances orelectronic devices are not economical to repair.

Motor and Circuit Repairs• Disconnect all switches, contactors, motors and

electrical wiring. Make a diagram of the connections,or list the steps you took to disconnect these items;this will help you remember how to reassemble theparts.

• Flush all parts of the system with clean water, andallow the parts to dry for several days before recon-necting.

• Use spray-on drying agents to help in the displace-ment of moisture in contacts, motors and so forth.

• Re-assemble the disconnected parts referring to yourdiagram or list of steps.

• Be sure the appliance is dry and properly groundedbefore reconnecting.

Insulation and Mechanical ComponentsAppliances that are insulated such as ranges, ovens,

freezers, refrigerators and water heaters may need tohave wet insulation removed and dried or replaced.• Remove insulation by opening the frame of the

appliance; consult your owner’s manual for con-struction details. Use gloves when removing theinsulation. Clean the cavity before installing newinsulating material. Duct insulation can be used toreplace the old fiberglass insulation.

• On appliances where fiberglass insulation cannot beremoved, replace the appliance.

• Newer freezers and refrigerators include foaminsulation that will not require removal.

• Remember to check the mechanical parts of theelectric appliance. Such things as the bearings,hinges on doors and other moving parts should bedried and lubricated to prevent rust.

Preventing Damage from Future FloodsIf the appliance was damaged by floodwaters

which were less than 2-feet deep, you can help preventfuture damage by installing the repaired or replacementappliance on a platform.• Consider elevating the electrical system itself. Install

all electrical switches and outlets 12 inches aboveeither the 100-year flood level or the level of thehighest known flood at your location - whichever ishigher.

• Check with the local permit office to see if permitsare required for any physical alteration of the loca-tion of your appliances or for modification of theelectrical wiring in your building. Permit and inspec-tion requirements vary greatly throughout the state.

SalvagingWater-damaged BelongingsNatural Hazards Series: Recovery - Part 4

Safety• Approach a flooded or wetted appliance with

caution. Water can short-circuit an electricalappliance so that parts which don’t normallyconduct electricity can shock you.

• Disconnect power to the building or to thecircuit which feeds the suspected appliance.Then unplug the appliance. If the power to thebuilding or neighborhood has been shut off, besure all appliances suspected to have waterdamage have been unplugged before power isrestored.

• If you are uncertain whether an appliance hasbeen damaged by water, do not test it byplugging it in and/or turning it on. Either treat itas damaged or have a knowledgeable individualcheck for electrical shorts to assure that it is safeto use.


20

Salvaging and Cleaning FurnitureBefore starting to salvage

damaged furniture, decide whichpieces are worth restoring. Suchdecisions should be based on:extent of damage, cost of thearticle, sentimental value, cost ofrestoration and quality of thewood or fabric. Consider eachpiece individually.

Restore or Replace?Antiques

Antiques are probably worth the time, effort andexpense of restoration. Unless damage is severe, youcan probably clean, reglue and refinish antiques athome. Extensive repair or re-veneering work should bedone at a reliable furniture repair shop.

Solid wood furniture

Solid wood furniture can usually be restored unlessdamage is severe. You will probably need to clean, dryand reglue it. Do not throw away solid wood furnitureuntil it has dried and repair efforts can be assessed.Slightly warped boards may be removed andstraightened or replaced.

Wood veneered furniture

Wood veneered furniture is usually not worth thecost and effort of repair, unless it is very valuablemonetarily or sentimentally. If veneer is loose in just afew places, you may be able to repair it. Veneeredfurniture repairs are usually best done by a reliablerefinisher.

Upholstered furniture

Upholstered furniture may be salvageable,depending on its general condition. Flooded pieces willneed to be cleaned and dried, and mildew should beremoved. If damage is extensive, you may have toreplace padding and upholstery. Since this is anexpensive process, it might be wiser to apply themoney toward a new piece of furniture.

You will not need to repair all pieces immediately.Any furniture worthy of repair should be completelycleaned, dried and stored in a dry, shady, well-ventilated place until you have time to repair it.Wooden furniture damaged by floods can best besalvaged through slow drying and proper repair.

First Steps to RestorationSubmerged or wet wooden furniture

Take furniture outdoors, and remove as manydrawers, slides and removable parts as possible.Drawers and doors will probably be stuck tight. Do nottry to force them out from the front. With a screwdriveror chisel, remove the back and push out the drawerfrom behind.

After you have removed movable parts, clean offmud and dirt, using a hose if necessary.

Take all furniture indoors and store it where it willdry slowly. Furniture left in the sunlight to dry willwarp and twist out of shape.

When furniture is dry, reglue it if necessary. Youwill need equipment and clamps to reglue some pieces.Before you start, decide whether you have the time,equipment and ability to do the work. Consult anexperienced carpenter if necessary. Many books areavailable on the subject.

To reglue loose joints or rungs, cut or scrape off oldglue so the area will be as clean and free of glue aspossible. Use a white all-purpose glue, followingdirections on container. Hold parts together with rubberrope tourniquets or C-clamps. To prevent damage fromropes or clamps, pad these areas with cloth.

Damp furniture - removing white spots

White spots or a cloudy film may develop on dampfurniture that has not been submerged.

If the entire surface is affected, rub with a dampcloth dipped in (a) turpentine or camphorated oil or (b)in a solution of 1/2 cup household ammonia and 1/2cup water. Wipe dry at once and polish with wax orfurniture polish.

If color is not restored, dip 3/0 steel wool in oil(boiled linseed, olive, mineral or lemon). Rub lightlywith the wood grain. Wipe with a soft cloth and re-wax.

For deep spots, use a drop or two of ammonia on adamp cloth. Rub at once with a dry cloth. Polish.Rubbing cigarette ashes, powered pumice or a piece ofwalnut into spots may also help remove them. Be sureto wear rubber gloves when using these solutions.

If spots remain after all efforts to remove them, thepiece should be refinished.


21

Cleaning Carpetsand Floors

Cleaning water-soakedcarpets and floors is difficultin itself, but in the aftermathof a storm or flood,contamination by mud, silt,sewage and mildew cancompound the problem.

It’s best to replace carpets and get professionalcleaners to work on floors, but this may not bepossible. In any case, begin cleanup as soon aspossible.

Tips• Pull up all saturated carpets and rugs, and take them

outdoors.

• If you wish to salvage valuable rugs and water wasnot contaminated, hose muddy carpets down. Worka low-sudsing, disinfectant carpet cleaning productdeep into soiled spots with a broom.

• If only small areas of carpet got wet from leaks, pullup and prop the wet carpet to dry. Cut away wetpadding.

• To discourage mildew and odors, rinse the backingwith a solution of 2 tablespoons bleach to 1 gallonwater. Don’t use this solution on wool carpets. Alsodisinfect the slab or subfloor.

• Discard and replace foam pads.

• Sections of subfloors that separate must be replacedto avoid buckling. When floor coverings are re-moved, allow subfloors to dry thoroughly, eventhough it may take several months. Disinfect all wetsurfaces.

• In wood floors, remove a board every few feet toreduce buckling caused by swelling. Ask a carpenterfor tips on removing tongue-and-groove boards.

• Clean and dry floor thoroughly before attemptingrepairs. Using a dehumidifier will speed the dryingprocess.

• In vinyl floors with wood subflooring, the floorcovering should be removed so the subflooring canbe replaced. With concrete floors, removal isn’tnecessary except to hasten drying of the slab.

• Loose tiles may be replaced if the floor has not beensoaked. If water has seeped under sheet flooring,remove the entire sheet.

• While cleaning, wash exposed skin frequently inpurified water. Wear rubber gloves.

Cleaning Tips• Always wear rubber gloves when using

cleaning solutions or working with flood-damaged or moldy furniture. Take furni-ture outdoors to clean.

• If mildew has developed, vacuum (prefer-ably with an HEPA filter) surface or brushoff with a broom.

• Read fiber content labels of upholstery.Test a hidden area using a solution oflukewarm soapy water (1 tablespoon soapto 1 quart water), or dilute denaturedalcohol (1/2 alcohol and 1/2 water) orbleach solution (1 tablespoon bleach to apint of water) to see if color is removed orfabric shrinks. Allow to dry, then decide ifthe fabric can be cleaned. Sponge fabricto remove dirt, and use bleach or alcoholsolution to remove mildew. Fabric may beremoved from frame to clean, dependingon the damage.

• Remove tacks, nails, braid, other fasten-ers.

• Although wet synthetic foam padding canbe restored, the risk of contamination andcosts usually make replacement a betteroption. Wet cotton or other organicpadding should always be replaced.

• Wipe down wooden frames with a woodcleaner or alcohol solution remove moldor mildew. Wipe dry and allow to air dryin an open shady place (never dry furni-ture in direct sunlight).

• Dry springs and other metal parts. If rusthas formed, you may need to replace orclean. Use steel wool and coat with paint.A light oil could be wiped on metal partsto help prevent later rusting. Many majormanufacturers keep records of fabric ormetal parts which can be ordered from thedealer for replacement.

• Be sure all parts are dry before reassem-bling.

• A reliable furniture repair shop will giveestimates on cost of redoing furniture.Also, consider replacement cost and valueof each piece. If insurance allows partvalue on flood-damaged furniture, it maybe financially worthwhile to apply themoney to new articles,rather than pay for exten-sive repairs.


22

Cleaning Storm-soaked ClothingWhen cleaning clothes soaked during storm

flooding, remember that the flood water may have beencontaminated with sewage waste. Simply drying theseclothes is not enough. For safety, they must bedisinfected to kill harmful bacteria. Two tablespoons ofliquid chlorine bleach per washer load will kill bacteriawithout substantially damaging clothes. Do not usemore than 2 tablespoons per washer load unless all theclothes can be safely bleached.

Dry cleaning is also effective. Do not use bleachon wool, silk, feathers and foam.

Tips• Separate wet items as soon as possible to keep

clothing colors from running together. Sort outclothing that should be drycleaned. Do not mixflood-soiled clothes with clean clothes. Take care notto contaminate work surfaces.

• Items to be drycleaned should be air-dried and takento a cleaner as soon as possible. (If you suspect theymay have been in sewage-contaminated water, wearplastic gloves.) Do not dry the clothes near a heatsource such as a stove. Once dry, shake and brushclothing outdoors to remove as much soil as pos-sible.

• Rinse washable items several times in cold water. Ifbadly soiled, soak overnight in cold water and anenzyme product or detergent. Wring out and air dryif you’re unable to machine wash.

• Machine wash clothes as soon as possible. Use aheavy duty detergent and a disinfectant such as 2tablespoons of chlorine bleach, pine oil or a phenolicdisinfectant. Use highest water level possible, don’tovercrowd washer and use hottest water temperaturesuitable for the garments. Select the longest washcycle available. Dry in a dryer (if available) at thehighest temperature suitable for the fabric.

• Stained or very dirty clothes may require adding anappropriate bleach to the wash. Follow directions onthe bleach containers and garment tags for types andamounts to use.

• If an item is still stained after washing, rewash beforedrying. Drying may make some stains harder toremove.

Contact your local Cooperative Extension Serviceoffice listed under local government in the telephonedirectory or www.lsuagcenter.com


Contributors:Claudette Reichel, Ed.D., Professor, Housing Specialist

Evva Z. Wilson, Ph.D. (retired)

Robert H. Mills, Ph.D. (retired)



23

Winds, floods and winterstorms can be very damaging toplants. The information in thispart of the Recovery Series willhelp you salvage some plants,including grasses, and give yousome ways to recycle plantdebris. There’s also somediscussion for determining thevalue of lawn and gardenlosses.

Salvage TipsWhen plant material has been damaged because of

intense winds or flooding, prompt care should be takento salvage all usable plants.

ResettingGenerally, it is practical and economical to reset

only small, young and easy-to-manage trees. Large,weakened trees and shrubs may be dangerous, are slowto re-establish and may be susceptible to futureproblems and even more severe wind damage later.Fallen or partially uprooted trees and shrubs may besaved in many instances, so keep roots covered andmoist before resetting.

In certain areas, where erosion and flooding haveoccurred, a reconditioning of soil or planting area maybe necessary. Additional soil should be incorporatedinto the planting area for proper root coverage. Replanttrees and shrubs at their original planting depth. Excesssoil or exposed roots will cause further shock anddamage. Firm soil around roots to eliminate air pocketsand provide support. Staking the first year may beneeded until roots become re-established.

Repairing and PruningIn removing portions of a plant, use sharp tools that

make a smooth, clean cut. Always make cuts next to orflush with the trunk of a tree or back to a primary limbjunction. Leave no stubs. Ragged cuts and unsightlystubs are prime areas for the attack of insects or diseaseorganisms. When removing large limbs, avoidunnecessary stripping of bark down the side of a trunkor primary limb. To eliminate stripping, make a cuthalfway through from the bottom of the limb beforecutting through the limb from the top, past the bottomcut.

Pruning and thinning should be done at the time ofresetting so as to preserve the plant’s natural form andto reduce weight. Concentrate first on broken andweakened limbs, then thin smaller branches to a limiteddegree. In no case should excessive amounts ofpruning take place. Foliage is required to manufactureplant food. During the dormant season of Decemberthrough February, additional pruning may be needed,especially for plants that aren’t recovering very fast orare in decline.

Cut away only badly damaged roots. Where rootdamage has occurred, some upper branches and foliagemay be removed to compensate for the lack of roots toreduce stress. If roots are exposed on blown overplants, immediately cover them to keep them moistuntil the plant can be uprighted and the roots buried.

WateringWater all newly set plants immediately and a little

more frequently than under normal circumstances.Drought may cause additional damage to plants notwatered regularly. Deep soaking with a slow stream ofwater is most beneficial for root growth. This also willtend to eliminate air pockets around the roots.

MulchingMulch will conserve moisture and be helpful in re-

establishing shrubs and trees. Mulch with fallen leaves,lawn clippings, pine needles or tree bark.

StakingTrees and large shrubs that are reset should be

staked until they become well re-established. Staking isalso a security against stress that may come if plantsexperience other wind damage before re-establishment.Use metal stakes or hardwood stakes that will notdecay for several months to a year. Place stakes at anangle away from the trunk for greatest support. Toavoid injuring the trunk with wire or cable, thread themthrough short sections of old garden hose or otheranchoring material, such as rope that will not cut intothe trunk. A wide strap or cloth is best to prevent barkabrasion from staking. Securely anchor plants fromthree sides to prevent movement during normal highwinds and rain.

Staking can be dangerous. Place all stakes out ofthe path of people so they will not trip on them or theguy wires. It would be wise to clearly mark or usebright paint on obstacles.

Lawnand Garden LossesNatural Hazards Series: Recovery - Part 5


24

FertilizingAs a general rule, fertilizer is not applied to plants

which have been damaged until they overcome theshock, usually the next year. Until they become re-established, fertilizer will be of no major benefit andmay injure the plant by causing excessive growth thatdamaged roots can’t feed or water.

Fertilizer applied late in summer may also causelate growth that will be more susceptible to early freezeinjury.

Treating Freeze DamageIf trees show severe damage by bark peeling, you

should peel loose bark off so new bark can grow back.Fertilize the tree in the spring. Some protection for fruittrees or small, thin-barked trees can be provided bydeep mulches at the base and wrapping the bottomtrunk with wrap such as an old coat. Do not fertilizeplants late in the year or before February to preventactive growth during cold, winter weather and toincrease dormancy. Follow up on freeze-damagedplants with pruning before leafing out.

The decrease in fair market value is calculated twoways: (1) appraisals immediately before and after thecasualty and (2) deduction from the before-casualty fairmarket value less the cost of cleanup, repair orreplacement. Competent loss appraisals by real estateappraisers are the best proof of decrease in fair marketvalue. Appraisal fees are deductible under expensesincurred to determine tax liability. Those fees are notpart of the casualty loss.

Tree Debris and RenewalUse as much tree and plant waste as possible to

prevent burden on landfills.

Tips• Cut suitable trees for firewood. Fallen trees should

be cut within one year for use as firewood, and thestacked wood should be protected from rain. Thethermal content of wood decreases as decay in-creases. Ash, oak and pecan make very good fire-wood. Pine and gum would be better used for otherpurposes. Firewood splitters may be available forrent.

• Make mulch and compost. Most tree waste will bedecayed within several years, and it provides avaluable source of organic matter. Nitrogen fertilizercan be added to mulch and organic matter to break itdown sooner. Chippers may be available for rent.For more information on composting and makingmulch, ask for the Extension publications “BackyardComposting” and “Basic Principles of Composting.”The best trees for mulch are softer species whichdecay faster and are easier to compost.

• Use tree sections as framing for raised beds, fortemporary bridges and for erosion control on steep,eroding sites. They may be piled in rural areas forwildlife habitat or fish shelters. Fish shelters shouldbe firmly secured in flowing waters to preventdownstream blockage of waterways.

• When cut off at or above the ground, many favoritetrees will sprout from the stump and grow again.Trim neatly and make clean cuts on any trees need-ing pruning. Contact local nurseries or your countyagent for pruning advice.

• Dead tree stumps left in the ground will decay,sometimes producing large holes. This will takeseveral years. To speed up the process, considerusing a stump grinder where large trees have beenlost. The occasional addition of nitrogen fertilizer tothe top of a grooved stump will also promote rapiddecay.

Assessing LandscapeTree Loss

You may be able to claima storm loss or insurancebenefit as a result of stormdamage. Here are ways toassess the value of damaged trees and landscaping:

• The decrease in the fair market value of the propertyas a result of the casualty.

• The adjusted basis in the property.

• The amount of insurance or other compensationallowed.

• The cost of replacement (when replacement is

possible).

Cleanup, repair and replacement costs on thedamaged landscape may be used to measure thedecrease in property value if:

• The repairs are necessary to restore the property toits condition before the casualty.

• The amount spent on repairs is not excessive.

• The replacement or repairs do no more than takecare of the damage sustained.

• The value of the property after the repairs does not,as a result of the repairs, exceed the value of theproperty before the casualty.

Homeowners who sustain significant damage tolandscape trees may wish to contact the IRS todetermine what other methods are used to evaluate treevalue. If homeowners decide to pursue insuranceclaims or tax deductions, they must prove that casualtyloss was sustained because of the storm or flood and


25

Where wind damage is significant, pruning shouldbe as light as possible. However, if large areas ofcambium are exposed, the plant probably will notsurvive without attention. Make clean cuts to minimizethe exposed cambium area. If the plant can be saved,several growing seasons may be needed to retrain.

Many plants that are leaning or uprooted can bereset if the root ball is intact. Once they are reset, usestakes to immobilize them.

Dikes, terraces or raised planting beds that werealtered need to be reshaped to protect the area, coverexposed roots or provide a medium for new rootgrowth. Use the smallest equipment possible toaccomplish the job. This minimizes compaction andreduces further root damage.

Premature defoliation caused by very high windspeeds will weaken fruits. Defoliation coupled withroot damage will cause additional stress because theroot system serves as a tremendous storage reservoirfor carbohydrates manufactured by the leaves. Withoutthis reservoir of carbohydrates to call on for energyduring the winter, the plants may be saved in the shortrun only to die during the winter. Once the top damagehas been pruned out and after the first freeze, applynitrogen in a complete fertilizer at the rate of 30 poundsactual N per acre. This will help the plant start newroot growth, which will continue during the winter aslong as the soil temperature is above 45 degrees F.

Soil concentrations of 3,000 ppm soluble salt willmake fruit culture very difficult. However, some fruitsare much more salt tolerant than others. Grapes, figs,pomegranates and pecans are examples of fruits thatwill not be hurt by increased salt concentrations asreadily as blueberries, strawberries and blackberries. Ifsoil salt concentration is high, irrigate frequently tohelp reduce the buildup of salt after evaporation. Testall irrigation water for salinity. If irrigation ponds havebeen contaminated, pump them out and fill with cleanriver or well water. Rainfall, while complicating othercleanup activities, helps to flush the soil.

If the sodium content is 250 ppm or more, internaldrainage problems will occur. They can be correctedsomewhat by using gypsum (calcium sulfate, 18percent sulphur, 20 percent calcium) as a soil additive.Apply at the rate of 2 ounces of gypsum per squarefoot of area (2 3/4 tons per acre), and immediatelyirrigate to move the material into the soil profile.


that amounts claimed as loss are deductible. Suchrecord-keeping also is important in substantiating anyclaims for loss recovery.

Specifically, homeowners must be prepared toshow:

1. The nature of the casualty and when it occurred.

2. That the loss was the direct result of a sudden andunusual event such as storm, lighting or wind.

3. That the claimant is the owner of the property.

The costs of the property can be proved bypurchase contracts, deed, etc.; value before and afterthe casualty; or the amount of insurance or othercompensation received or recoverable.

Tips• Photographs of the property before and after the

damage help show the condition and value of theproperty before the casualty.

• Local newspaper articles, complete with dates andthe newspaper’s name, serve as evidence of thecasualty and its time and location.

• Appraisals are the most desirable tools for establish-ing values before and after the casualties.

• Keep receipts for repair and replacement for claimsas well as names of witnesses who can help substan-tiate claims.

• A CPA, IRS agent or other knowledgeable taxperson should be promptly contacted for guidance.

Small FruitStrategiesAfter a Storm

Storm damage to small fruitsshows itself in different ways,depending on crop growth habit aswell as proximity to the storm. Forinstance, wind is the mostdestructive element for most fruittrees and vine crops, while too much water, in someinstances saltwater, adversely affects other crops.

Here are suggestions to help fruit growers evaluatetheir damage and take whatever corrective action ispossible.

26

Salinity and TurfgrassesAfter a Hurricane

The surge of saltwater brought inland by ahurricane can cause a lot of damage to turfgrasses onlawns, golf courses, sod farms, parks, playgrounds,sports fields and leisure-recreation sites. Here aresuggestions to help turf managers overcome saltwaterdamage to turf.

Irrigation with clean, sodium-free, fresh water isprobably the most important practice to follow whenrinsing accumulated salts from turf leaf surfaces andleaching salts from root zones of soils. Test allirrigation water sources for salinity. If the irrigationlake has been flooded with saltwater, pump it out andfill with clean river or well water. Or, irrigate from thewell or river if not contaminated with salt.

• Bermuda, zoysia, creeping bent and St. Augustineturfgrasses have good relative salinity tolerance(1500 ppm total soluble salts).

• Tall fescue and perennial ryegrass have mediumsalinity tolerance (800-1000 ppm total soluble salts).

• Red fescue, Kentucky bluegrass and centipedegrasshave poor relative salinity tolerance (600-800 ppmtotal soluble salts).

Repeated irrigation with water containing 1200ppm total soluble salts will be harmful to the turf unlessfollowed by sufficient rainfall or fresh irrigation water.Even irrigation water containing 500 to 600 ppm totalsoluble salts, when used repeatedly without beingflushed with fresh water from rainfall or irrigation, cancreate a problem by allowing salts to accumulate in theroot zone of the soil, especially in soils with poorinternal drainage.

If it is overseeding time, remember that turf-typeperennial ryegrasses have only medium tolerance tosalinity. To avoid a loss in stand of winter cover, testthe soils for salinity before overseeding. High saltlevels are more damaging when the plants are youngand the soil is dry. Try to keep the soil moist at leastwhen the plants are small.

Gypsum (calcium sulfate, 18% sulfur, 20%calcium) can be used to help leach salt from the soil.Gypsum works best when incorporated into the soil,but it can be broadcast on the turf. Try 45-50 poundsof gypsum per 1,000 square feet. Gypsum is not verysoluble in water, but it is more soluble than limestone.Irrigate after gypsum application to move it into the soilsurface and root zone of the turf. Allow time for thechemical reaction, then test soil salinity in four to sixmonths. Continue irrigation to leach the salts into soilbelow the root zone. Poorly drained soils will bedifficult to leach.

Water logging the soil for extended periods can beas harmful to the turf as excess soluble salts. Coreaerification or deep tine aerification, preferably withcoring tines, can help improve infiltration andpercolation of water and salts through the soil andbelow the root zone.

Contact your local LSU AgCenter office listedunder local government in the telephone directory orwww.lsuagcenter.com .


Contributors:Tom Koske, Ph.D., Professor

Tom Pope, Ph.D. (retired)

Earl Puls, Ph.D. (retired)

Robert Mills, Ph.D. (retired)


27

As you attempt to restore your life and home after astorm or flood, you will face many decisions. In manycases, the decisions will involve considerableinvestments. Naturally, you’ll want to recover as muchas possible through your homeowner’s and floodinsurance policies. Where insurance falls short of yourneeds, other types of assistance may be available,especially after a presidentially declared disaster. Partof your financial recovery involves making goodbusiness decisions when contracting for repairs.

These pages give advice on documenting losses,insurance, financial assistance, contracting andconsumer protection.

Documenting Losses and ClaimsWhether you’re filing

for insurance, seekingassistance or claiming acasualty tax deduction,you will need proof ofyour losses. Before youstart cleanup, take pictures.If you can’t take pictures,describe the situationaccurately, listing the specific items which have beenlost or damaged. Keep damaged materials for proof ofloss unless your adjuster authorizes their disposal. It’sokay to remove the damaged articles from their originallocation to prevent further damage to the building, butdo not discard.

Remember to document the losses in yourlandscape and garden. Also, document the amount ofdebris you will have to remove, and whether it camefrom your property or elsewhere. The flood insurancepolicy, and some homeowner’s insurance policies,cover debris removal.

• Save all receipts relating to your temporary lodgingand food if your home is uninhabitable. Somepolicies pay the difference between normal livingexpenses and the cost of living elsewhere, althoughthe flood insurance policy does not.

• Save receipts for temporary repairs you made toprotect your property from further damage.

• Save receipts for materials you purchased and otheritems related to protecting your building or contentsfrom flood damage. You may be able to claim theseon your flood insurance policy.

• Keep a copy of all letters and receipts that are sent toinsurance companies or relief agencies.

• Keep a record of all phone calls made in attempts toreceive reimbursements or aid.

• Save receipts for materials you purchased and otheritems related to protecting your building or contentsfrom flood damage. You may be able to claim theseon your flood insurance policy.

• Keep a copy of all letters and receipts that are sent toinsurance companies or relief agencies.

• Keep a record of all phone calls made in attempts toreceive reimbursements or aid. Be sure to includedate and time of call and name of person spoken to.

Filing for InsuranceThese tips are offered to guide you in filing

insurance claims for damage to your home and loss ofpersonal property:

• Call your insurance adjuster immediately, and provide a phone number where you can be reached.

• After carefully documenting losses, begincleanup and salvage as soon as possible. Don’twait for an adjuster. Keep damaged materialsin an isolated spot as far from the building aspossible.

• Follow up on your insurance call with a letterdetailing the problem. Keep a copy of theletter.

• Leave phone numbers where you can be reachedwhen the adjuster arrives.

• Ask the adjuster to assess damages. Sign theproof of loss statement. Report additionaldamage as it is found.

• Provide any other information the adjuster re-quests.

Be sure to file your insurance claim within thepolicy’s imposed time limits. For the National FloodInsurance Program policy, this time limit is 60 days; forhomeowner’s policies, it varies. Review the settlementsteps outlined in your policy. If you’re dissatisfied withthe proposed settlement offer, explain your position inwriting.

If there’s a significant difference between what youare offered and what you believe you are entitled to,you may wish to submit the dispute to arbitration. Thearbitration process for a National Flood InsuranceProgram claim is described in the policy under“Appraisal” in Article 9.

Financial Recoveryand Risk ManagementNatural Hazards Series: Recovery - Part 6


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Homeowner’s InsuranceMany people are surprised about

the extent of protection ahomeowner’s insurance policy offers.Although your homeowner’s policydoes not cover damage caused byrising floodwaters, it does offer someprotection from loss caused by wind,rain, hail, snow, lightning andfreezing temperatures. If you have experienced a lossor damage to property, review your policy’s provisionsand contact your insurance agent to file a claim and/orto update your policy to include the coverage neededfor the future. Be sure your coverage amount is alwaysat least 80% of the current replacement cost of yourhome. Otherwise, you will not be paid the full cost ofreplacing a partial loss.

Also, most homeowner’s policies pay for losses toyour contents (furniture, appliances, clothes, etc.) on anactual cash value basis (replacement cost minusdepreciation for age or wear and tear). A better optionis to buy replacement cost coverage that pays the fullcost to replace your personal property at today’s prices.Although the cost is higher, the extra protection isusually worth it.

TipsThese items are usually covered but may vary

according to the policy’s provisions and up to thedollar amounts that you purchased:• Your house, including rental units that are part of the

building, and any attachments to the building suchas a garage.

• Any structures on your grounds that are not attachedto your house such as a garage, tool shed, poolcabana, gazebo or fences.

• Vacant land that you own or rent, with the exceptionof farmland.

• Cemetery plots or burial vaults that you own.

• Personal possessions that you or members of yourhousehold own or use anywhere in the world. Thisincludes the contents of your house and any struc-tures on your grounds. It also covers any posses-sions that guests bring to your house, but it does notinclude the possessions of any tenants you may haveliving in your home.

• Any items friends have lent to you that you’rekeeping on your property.

• Your living expenses, if your house is unlivablebecause of damage.

• Rental payments, if you normally rent part of yourhouse but it is unlivable because of damage.

• Legal responsibility for unauthorized use of yourcredit cards, checks forged under your name orcounterfeit currency accepted in good faith.

• Settlements, medical expenses, defense and courtcosts involved in claims brought against you forbodily injury to others or damage to the property ofothers.

Many policy holders may be unaware of the extentof the protection offered by their homeowner’sinsurance. If you have experienced a loss or damageto property, review your policy’s provisions andcontact your insurance agent to file a claim and/or toupdate your policy to include the coverage needed forthe future.

A standard homeowner’s policy does not coveryour cars, most recreational vehicles, watercraft,animals, birds or fish. While homeowner’s insurancedoes not cover losses from rising water, it usually doescover water damage from such things as leaking roofs,broken windows and broken pipes. Most policies donot cover sewer backup unless you purchase a sewerbackup endorsement.

You should know, if you are in a designated specialflood hazard area and your structure is substantiallydamaged by any force (wind, water, fire), you may berequired by the local permit office to meet the flooddamage prevention requirements for new construction;for residential structures this means elevation. Astructure is substantially damaged when the cost ofrestoring the structure to its pre-damage condition is50% or more of its pre-damage market value. Ownersof structures in special flood hazard areas can partiallyinsure themselves for the added expense of elevating awind- or fire-damaged structure before repairs bypurchasing a “Code Compliance” endorsement on theirhomeowner’s policy.

Flood InsuranceLosses caused by rising floodwater are not covered

under most homeowner’s insurance policies. If youhave purchased coverage through the National FloodInsurance Program at least 30 days before beingaffected by a flood, you will be protected againstproperty damage caused by such flooding. You mayalso be partially reimbursed for steps you take toprevent flood damage, even if the flood never reachesyour building.

Flood insurance policies written or renewed on orafter June 1, 1997, include an endorsement calledIncreased Cost of Compliance (ICC). This coveragewill pay up to $10,000 for elevating or relocating aninsured dwelling so that it is above the flood protectionelevation required for new construction. Fornonresidential structures, floodproofing by othermethods may also be covered. The coverage may beused toward the cost of demolishing the floodpronestructure and building a new structure at the requiredelevation.

At present, ICC coverage is available only forstructures that have been substantially damaged by acurrent flood event for which a damage claim is being


29

filed. In communities with cumulative substantialdamage ordinances, eligibility may include damage inprior floods.

The flood insurance adjuster may submit a damageassessment form to the flood insurance programindicating that substantial damage is suspected;however, final responsibility for determining whether astructure has been substantially damaged rests with thecommunity. In most Louisiana communities, thedetermination will be made by or through thefloodplain administrator who is usually the building orpermit official.

Insurance doesn’t protect your home, it protectsyour pocketbook, and makes it possible to for you torestore or rebuild. There are things you can do toprotect property from damage by natural hazards. It’scalled “mitigation.” Ask about our flood protectionfactsheets and hurricane guide, or check thewww.louisianafloods.org Web site.

Credit andOther Sources of Relief

Victims of natural hazards whoselosses exceed their insurance coveragesmay obtain loans or other financialassistance.

• The Red Cross helps with immediate building repairsand living expenses when no other immediateassistance is available.

• Merchants and dealers may extend credit for feed,equipment and rehabilitation of buildings and land.

• The Small Business Administration (SBA) offersmedium- and long-term loans for rehabilitation ofnon-farm homes and small businesses if overalldamage in the community meets certain criteria.Borrowers may obtain 20% over the damage repairloan amount for mitigation (to protect the propertyfrom future damage by natural hazards).

• Commercial and federal land banks offer loans withmoderately low interest rates for home repairs,improvements, land equipment and livestock.

• Insurance companies offer long-term loans atrelatively high interest rates for home repair,improvements, land, equipment and livestock.

• Uninsured losses, and the uninsured portion oflosses, should be reported as an additional itemizeddeduction on federal income tax form Schedule Aunder casualty losses.

Federal Disaster AssistanceIf an event is declared as a major disaster by the

president, numerous additional sources of federalassistance will become available. The FederalEmergency Management Agency will set up a disasterregistration hot-line and will usually work with the

Louisiana Office of Homeland Security and EmergencyPreparedness to establish local disaster recoverycenters. The hot-line and recovery centers will besources of access to the various federal assistanceprograms.

In addition to the SBA loans already mentioned,these types of assistance are usually available:

• Individual and family grants, for those who do notqualify for a loan

• Temporary housing assistance

• Unemployment assistance

• Assistance with recovery planning; mitigation advice

• Legal services to low-income families and individu-als

• Crisis counseling for disaster-related mental healthproblems

• Special income tax advice and treatment

Housing rehabilitation assistance for low- andmoderate-income households may also be available insome communities through the U.S. Department ofHousing and Urban Development programsadministered by local and state agencies.

Recipients of federal assistance for flood damagewill be required to purchase and maintain floodinsurance on their property. Owners of that propertymay not receive federal assistance in future floodsunless the property is protected by flood insuranceduring those future floods.

Contracting for Repairsand Rebuilding

Selecting a ContractorAs you attempt to restore your life and home after a

storm, the availability of local companies andindividuals to perform the necessary services will belimited. It often may be advisable to do temporaryrepairs and wait for local contractors who will be thereto guarantee their work long after the storm is over. If itis necessary to complete the repairs, however, it isimportant to receive good quality work, or majordeterioration may appear later.

Outside contractors and companies will enter thearea to offer their services. Some are honest and will doan adequate job, but be careful in working with outsidecontractors.

It is advisable, if possible, to check with the BetterBusiness Bureau, either in Louisiana or in the state andcity where the company or person is located. It also isadvisable to check with others for whom they haveworked in Louisiana. Determine if they have performedin a timely and adequate manner.


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Ask for proof of insurance. The contractor musthave disability and workers’ compensation insurance,or you may be liable for accidents occurring on yourproperty.

Do not pay in advance. Do not let the contractorbegin work until you have a signed contract. When thejob is complete to your satisfaction, pay by check orcredit card, not cash.

If you cannot find a contractor willing to acceptthese basic terms, strengthen the patches and waitpatiently until you can be sure of a good job. Evenunder critical emergency conditions, complete, highquality repairs must be done, or damage anddeterioration will appear later.

Contract EssentialsThe offer and acceptance

(agreement) to do specific things in aspecific manner. State clearly, simplyand completely all that is to be done.If beginning and finishing dates areinvolved, state them in the body of the contract. A gooditem to include in a contract for home rebuilding is thatmaterials and procedures used will be those providedfor in minimum standards of the current building code.

Guarantees

Include what is guaranteed and for how long. Alsoinclude who is responsible for the guarantee(contractor, dealer or manufacturer).

Permits

State who is responsible for obtaining and payingfor any required building permits.

Parties

Parties involved must be at least 18 years of ageand mentally competent (not insane, retarded orsuffering mental problems of aging). All parties mustsign the contract.

For a consideration

Something of value changes hands, usually money.The amount to be paid and schedule of paymentsshould be included in the contract. That scheduleshould be based on progress toward completion, not onthe passage of time. Exercise your right to inspect allwork or to hire someone to inspect the work for you.

Change Orders

The contract should specify procedures to be usedto change the original work order. Keep a copy of thesigned contract.


Withhold Full Payment Until• The building contractor or person hired has paid for

all building supplies used. Require receipts for allpaid bills for all materials used.

• Everything has been completed on the job to the fullsatisfaction of the contract and to the satisfaction ofyou or your inspector.

• The contractor has provided you with releases of lienfrom himself/herself, from suppliers and from laborsubcontractors.

Buyer Beware!• Is the contractor offering you a special deal?

Using your home as a model for his work?Shy away.

• Is the offer too good to be true? Be sure thequality is there before you agree to buy.

• Does the contractor want cash only? Findanother contractor.

• Did the contractor solicit your business,rather than your calling him? Were youpressured into signing a contract? Federallaw gives you three days to cancel such acontract after you sign it. Send your noticeof cancellation by registered mail.

• Do you think you’ve been had? Have youtried to resolve your problem with thecontractor, but been unsuccessful? Don’t beembarrassed to call the Consumer ProtectionSection of the Attorney General’s Office at225/326-6465 or the 24-hour ConsumerInfo-line 1/800/351-4889.

For more information, contact your local LSUAgCenter office listed under local government in thetelephone directory.

“This material is based upon work supported bythe Cooperative State Research, Education, andExtension Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture,under special project numbers 92-ESNP-1-5184 and96-ESNP-1-5219.”

Contributors:Patricia M. Skinner, Extension Associate, Disaster

Education

Claudette Reichel, Ed.D., Professor, Housing Specialist

Jeanette Tucker, Ph.D., Associate Professor, FamilyEconomics

Ann A. Berry, Assistant Professor (Family ResourceManagement)

Carolyn Carter, Ed.D. (retired)


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Louisiana State University Agricultural CenterWilliam B. Richardson, ChancellorLouisiana Agricultural Experiment StationDavid J. Boethel, Vice Chancellor and DirectorLouisiana Cooperative Extension ServicePaul Coreil, Vice Chancellor and Director

Pub. 2668A-F 9/14/05 Rev.Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, 1914, incooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture. The Louisiana Cooperative Extension Serviceprovides equal opportunities in programs and employment.

Visit our Web site:www.lsuagcenter.com

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