knots

Mark Wilson 1 Chessington Scout Group

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Every scout has probably played with rope from the earliest moment of their play life. They will have used it in connection with a lot of their games. In camp and on hikes they will be called upon to use it again and again.

But, it is not just the rope that is of importance, every scout should know how to fasten this to objects (and in come cases to itself) in the correct manner. In such a way that the rope can do its job effectively, but still be able to be pulled loose easily if necessary.

There are three qualities to a good knot.

1. The speed and ease with which it can be tied. 2. The knots ability to hold fast. 3. The ease with which the knot can be removed afterwards.

These are the knots, I would recommend to all scouts. They are the most serviceable because they meet the above requirements and will be of great help in many aspects of life and scout craft. If the tenderfoot follows the various steps below, they will have no difficulty in reproducing them whenever required. I would urge all scouts to practice their knot-tying with a short piece of rope, or a couple of boot laces.

To protect the ends from fraying a scout should know how to "whip" them. The most common method of "whipping" is shown here:

1. Lay the twine on the rope, making a loop. 2. Start wrapping the twine around the rope, making sure to entrap the loop. 3. Continue wrapping the twine around the rope and then thread the twine through the end of the loop. 4. Pull down end (a) until the loop is pulled into the wrapped twine and then cut off excess twine on both ends (a and b).

Of course, with todays modern nylon rope, such as Para-cord, the ends melt with a lighter, so this is largely unnecessary with man-made ropes and cordage.


PARTS OF THE ROPE

For the sake of these instructions you should know the three principal parts of the rope:

1. The Standing Part The long unused portion of the rope on which he works; 2. The Bight loop formed whenever the rope is turned back upon itself; and, 3. The End The part he uses in leading.

HANKING A ROPE STEP 1

A scout should also know how to hank a rope properly. Hanking a rope keeps it knot free whilst in a pack, but then allows the rope to unfurl by pulling on both ends apart, releasing the rope. Taking the time to hank your guy lines when striking camp may save untold misery when pitching next time.

First, wrap the rope in a figure of eight round your thumb and little finger, starting at the thumb with the loose end, and leaving a length free at the other about a foot should do.

HANKING A ROPE STEP 2

Holding the bundle together, remove from your hand, and wind the free length firstly over itself to lock, and then back down the length of the bundle, until you reach the end. Then pull the short free end to find the loop that draws in, and form a loop with the standing end through, pulling it firm against the turns with the other End.

The Hank is now tight. Pulling on both free ends will free the whole length of rope, completely knot free!

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2

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THE OVERHAND KNOT

Start with the position shown in the preceding diagram. Back the end around the standing part and up through the bight and draw tight.

THE BOW

The bow is used for tying your shoe or boot laces, and setting up a hammock, by tying the ends off to a tree.

Start with a normal overhand knot, and then form a loop with both the standing part, and the end. Then tie an overhand knot with the two loops you have created.

For a more secure knot, create another overhand knot with the loops on top of the first.

THE FIGURE OF EIGHT KNOT

Make a bight as before. Then lead the end around back of the standing part and down through the bight.


THE REEF KNOT

Also known as the square knot.

The commonest knot for tying two ropes together. Frequently used in first-aid bandaging. Never slips or jams; easy to untie.

Also forms part of the Scout membership badge.

THE GRANNY KNOT

If the ends are not crossed correctly when making the reef knot, the false reef or granny knot is the result.

This knot is always bad, it does not hold fast under tension, so is pretty useless.

THE SHEET BEND

Also known as the weavers knot. This knot is used in bending the sheet to the clew of a sail and in tying two rope-ends together. Make a bight with one rope A, B, then pass end C, of other rope up through and around the entire bight and bend it under its own standing part.


THE BOWLINE

A noose that neither jams nor slips. Used in lowering a person from a burning building or out of danger. Also handy to keep at the end of guy lines for quick attaching to tent loops etc.

Form a small loop on the standing part leaving the end long enough for the size of the noose required. Pass the end up through the bight around the standing part and down through the bight again. To tighten, hold noose in position and pull standing part.

THE SLIP KNOT

Also known as the halter or running knot.

A bight is first formed and an overhand knot made with the end around the standing part.

THE SHEEPSHANK

Used for shortening ropes. Gather up the amount to be shortened, then make a half hitch round each of the bends as shown in the diagram.

Once the two ends are under strain this is surprisingly robust.


THE CLOVE HITCH

Used to fasten one pole to another in fitting up scaffolding; this knot holds snugly; is not liable to slip laterally. Hold the standing part in left hand, then pass the rope around the pole; cross the standing part, making a second turn around the pole, and pass the end under the last turn.

THE TIMBER HITCH

Used in hauling timber. Pass the end of the rope around the timber. Then lead it around its standing part and bring it back to make two or more turns on its own part. The strain will hold it securely.

TWO HALF HITCHES

Useful because they are easily made and will not slip under any strain. Their formation is sufficiently indicated by the picture (right).

A round turn and two half hitches is formed in exactly the same way, except that you go round the pole twice before tying the two half hitches.


THE FISHERMANS KNOT

Used for tying silk-worm gut for fishing purposes. It never slips; is easily unloosed by pulling the two short ends.

The two ropes are laid alongside one another, and then with each end an overhand knot is made around the standing part of the other. Pull the standing parts to tighten.

THE CARRICK BEND

Used in uniting hawsers for towing. Is easily untied by pushing the loops inwards.

Turn the end of one rope A over its standing part B to form a loop. Pass the end of the other rope across the bight thus formed, back of the standing part B over the end A, then under the bight at C, passing it over its own standing part and under the bight again at D.

Easier to do looking at the picture right, than explain.

THE TAUT LINE HITCH

Used for guy lines. By moving the hitch up or down the standing part you can tighten or loosen the line.

Wrap round the peg or pole, then wrap the standing part round the end through the loop, twice, then finally above the loop and through loop outside the original.

You should be able to see how this is accomplished by the picture (right).


THE TURKS HEAD KNOT

Shown here 5 Bight 3 Ply Turks Head Knot, continue to follow round the bights from step 5 Below, dont loop over the top of the top of The End.

Note: this knot used 4 6 of 5mm Para-cord to produce and the central hole is around in diameter.

This is how to create the Gilwell woggle.

THE TURKS HEAD STEP 1






This would lock off the single ply Turks head knot, however, for creating further ply, simply follow the rope round like the picture right.


LASHINGS

Lashings are a specific type of knot, and are used to lash things together, in camp craft this is primarily used for pole fastenings.

Most lashings use the clove hitch knot (see page 6.) however, the timber hitch is also used in the diagonal lashing (see page 6.).

SQUARE LASHING

These are used to join two poles that are at right angles.

1. Place two poles on the ground in the shape of a cross. Tie a clove hitch around the bottom pole near the crosspiece, then twist the free end of the rope around its upper part and tuck it out of the way.

2. Make three or four wraps around the poles, keeping the rope very tight. As you form the wraps, lay the rope on the outside of each previous turn around the crosspiece, and on the inside of each previous turn around the bottom pole.

3. Then frap (wrap round the core of the lashing) three times around the wraps to tighten the lashing as much as possible.

4. Finish the lashing with a clove hitch on the opposite pole and opposite side from the first clove hitch.

SHEER LASHING

These are used two join two poles together lengthwise.

1. Lay two poles side by side.

2. Tie a clove hitch around one pole.

3. Make four loose wraps around the poles and frap three times between them.



DIAGONAL LASHING

These are used to join two poles that are not at right angles.

1. Start by tying a timber hitch around both poles and pulling it snug.

2. Make four tight wraps around the spars, laying each wrap neatly alongside the timber hitch.

3. Make four more tight wraps across the first three.

4. Wrap it three or four times and finish the lashing with a clove hitch.

TRIPOD LASHING

A Tripod lashing is like a sheer lashing, but is used to join three poles into a tripod.

1. Tie a clove hitch around one of the outside poles.

2. Loosely wrap the poles five or six times, then frap between each of the poles.



NOTES

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