it's a man's world (soma, dec 1998)
DESCRIPTION
I wrote this snarky round-up of men's magazines for SOMA in 1998. I remember being bummed that the last graph got moved, but I still like the lede.TRANSCRIPT
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DECEMBER 1998 SOMA
TEXT: JIM HANAS
Inthe beginning, there were two versions of what men
wanted. Playboy and Esquire. Ass and attitude. Like Isaacand Ishmael, the Biblical half-brothers whose descendantswent on to found major world religions, both magazinesfathered lines of glossy progeny that extend down to the
present day. Playboy, despite its by no means ass-exclusivefocus, issued in all manner of wank-books and beaver-shot catalogs, while Esquire gave rise to something cagier: the vague category of the men's magazine. While the former mostly sold sex,the latter sold everything else, from suits to sedans (with a littlesex left in just to be safe), and a lifestyle was born.
But lifestyles are like potato chips: it's hard to have just one.This late-breaking fact has led to a decade-long surge in men'smagazine start-ups, most of which share the conviction that thegood life longed for by the modern male lies somewhere near theintersection of Christina Applegate and Sportscenter. The proportions may vary, but the ingredients remain the same: Liberal portions of ass and attitude, blended together and garnished withads hawking toys to men. Oh-and somewhere along the line,rock-hard abs got thrown into the mix. Here, then, are a few ofthe more common recipes.
Maxim
Maxim's motto is "The Best Thing to Happen to Men sinceWomen," and we all know how well that worked out. According toMaxim, what men want are a) plots to extract revenge from bosses and co-workers, b) endless techniques for tricking women intosleeping with them, c) new ways to get liquored up, and d) methods for meaningfully ranking the size of their penises amongthose of the general population. In other words, Maxim may bethe most thoughtful men's magazine of all time.
Gear
Although the inaugural issue of Bob Guccione, Jr.'s new magazinefeatures a shout out to Playboy in the form of an interview withfounder Hugh Hefner- whom Junior credits with inventing the"modern men's magazine"-don't be fooled. Gear is pure Esquire.
Saying you subscribe to Playboy for the articles is agag even your mom gets. SaYing the same Qf Esquireis, or once was anyway, tne truth.
(If you still aren't clear on the differencebetween the two legacies, consider this:sayingyou subscribe to Playboy for the articles is a gag even your mom gets. Sayingthe sameof Esquire is, or once was anyway,the truth.) All the parts are here: William T.Vollman in Iraq, a profile of George W.Bush,and a feature called "America's MostWanted."Esquire calls it "Women We Love."
MaybeGuccione, Jr. is trying to make itup to Hef for the sins of the father.Guccione,Sr.'s Penthouse, after all, is theknock-off largely responsible for' Hefner'srep as the father of all skin-mags.
Big Brother
Speakingof skin, the guys at my local skateshop assure me this testosterone-soakedshreddermag was much better-that is tosay, much more testosterone-soakedbefore Larry Flynt bought it from skateboard manufacturer World Industries and
turned it into Hustler's big brother.Unbelievable,but apparently true.
Pre-Flynt issues included instructions
for killing yourself and calls for naked pictures of readers' girlfriends. A recent postFlynt issue, on the other hand, has no nudity to speak of. It does, however, instructreaderson how to construct a "gank buck"for ripping off vending machines and how tolevy revenge on enemies with a stink bomb
madeout of milk and a chicken leg. I thinksomebody'sgot a job at Maxim waiting forthem when they grow up.
Loaded
I remember when "British import" meant a12-inch of "The Boy with the Thorn in HisSide" b/w Something Positively Twee. Withthe rise of lad rags like Loaded, all that'schanged. Porn stars (particuJarly"Pornalikes," or porn stars who resemblefamous people), soccer thugs, and technomadness are the obsessions of this U.K.magazine"for men who should know better." Not to mention inscrutable French
baiting, randy slang, and fashion spreadsthat prove, once and for all, that a camelovercoat hangs best when you're about tohurl a trashcan into something. As for tweeness, well, there is this interview withPrince.
Icon Thoughtstyle
Not much ass here. Not all that much atti
tudeeither. No abs at all. Just all profiles, allthetime. Big wordy profiles of actors, musicians, politicos, and athletes that are sureto intimidate readers of...
P.O. V.
Now,an important part of any men's magazinewould seem to be some form of hip-
ness, whether it's the unapologetic dudeness of Maxim or the celebrity worship ofIcon. P.O.V., on the other hand seems to begiving it a go without all that, um, coolness.A recent issue asks the question "How CanI Read More?" and P.O. V. quotes MarkVictor Hansen, co-author of the extra-lame
stocking-stuffer Chicken Soup for the Soul,on the virtues of literacy. "Reading awakensthe mind, heart, and body," says Hansen."It allows you to make life's journey interesting, meaningful, purposeful, and impact-
ful." Impactful? Now there's a good namefor a men's magazine. It can take P.O. V. 'splace, just as soon as it folds.
Details and GO
As men's magazines become more andmore specialized, Conde Nast isn't takingany chances. Between these twin clothes
horses the publishing giant lays out a virtual smorgasbord of male lifestyle, and bothhave the advertising bulk to prove it. Don'twant to want to read about Yankee short
stop Derek Jeter? Well, then, may we showyou something in a Matt Damon?
Men's Health and Men's Journal
Ultimately, there are two sorts of men'smagazines today-those that put women onthe cover and those that put men on thecover. A few, like Esquire and Details, mix itup from time to time, but you can be surethat their cover men are famous. Not so forMen's Health and Men's Journal. While the
men on their covers are not likely to befamous, they are certain to be ripped. Youshould dream of having such abs. For thatreason, it's easy to confuse the two. Here's
how you can tell the difference (it comesdown to priorities).
From Men's Health: "A bored bunch of
muscles isn't going to grow bigger andstronger and more babe-magnetizing."Men's Journal: "Your excess pounds areprobably contributing to at least somehealth concerns and-if nothing else-selfimage problems." Babe-magnetizing weunderstand, but health concerns? Self
image problems? What does yawning haveto do with my abs?
Genre
Being a magazine for gay men, Genre ofcourse falls into the men-on-the-cover cat
egory, not to mention the less pervasivewet-men-on-the-beach and men-in-cow-
boy-hats-and-underwear categories. (Thelatter, by the way, also made an appearancein the October issue of Bikini; a fact fromwhich readers of the formerly square manual of hetero lifestyle are encouraged todraw their own conclusions.) If magazinescould have opposites, Maxim's would be
Genre. In a recent, typically fabulous issue,I found only a handful of references towomen, including: a movie biz item aboutBette Midler, an interview with selfdescribed ex-fag hag Sandra Bernhard, and
a review of a Judy Garland boxed set byground-breaking documentary victim LanceLoud.
The best thing about Genre, however, isthat it bills itself simply as "The Men'sMagazine for the Millennium" and doesn'treally look much different from the rest of
the field, making it a perfect embarrassment/shame trap for forward-thinkingbreeder meatheads everywhere.
Esquire
The grey lady herself. How is she faring inthis maelstrom of, well, maleness?Understandably, Esquire seems a taddefensive about the niche-digging going onits turf, at least judging from its rathertesty mission statement: "Esquire is specialbecause it's a magazine for men. Not afashion magazine for men, not a healthmagazine for men, not a money magazine
for,men. It is not any of these things; it isall of them. It is, and has been for sixtyfive years, a magazine about the interests,the curiosity, the passions, of men."Sounds like someone could use a gallon ofmilk and a half-dozen chicken legs rightabout now.
Bikini
Well, you still can't read it when the wordsrun over the dark part of that guy's shirt,but Ray Gun Publishing's Bikini has a brandnew look. The old, short, square formatseemed like a good idea, virtually forcingbookstores to put the title on the front ofI'he.rack, but it apparently didn't work.
"There it was, hidden behind all thetaller magazines on the stands!" the editorsemote in the new-look October issue. Sonow Bikini has become one of those taller
magazines-"Made For Men," as it says iton the cover for those who were still
unsure. Still too many aimless transcriptions of interviews. 0
DECEM8ER 1998 SOMA