guide to st. louis for rustwire - february 2013

7/29/2019 Guide to St. Louis for Rustwire - February 2013

1/8

AnAnAn ImpossiblyImpossibly

BreakneckBreakneck 242424---ishishish

Hours in St. LouisHours in St. LouisHours in St. Louis

So youre visiting St. Louis? Lets get the dicult part out of the way rst.

Nearly all native St. Louisans feel a compulsion to eulogize the citys former life, as the 4 th largest city in

the country, host of the 1904 Worlds Fair, and yes, recipient of the nations tallest, most beautiful, and

most iconic monument, the GatewayArch. Not that all St. Louisans are statis-

ticians or demographers, but somehow

we all seem to know our numbers when

it comes to our horric population drop:

857,000 in 1950 at our peak to 319,000 in2010 (the nations steepest decline in

that time period, including Detroit!

Yikes). Downtown St. Louis, a once

proud progenitor of the great metropolis

built around it, was mercilessly hackedaway by interstates and corporate citi-

zens who were all too happy to trade

urban character for lifeless plazas, park-

ing garages, and stubby post-modern

mid-rises.

St. Louis should suck. Suck hard. All thesigns point to it. There should be Prozac

dispensers at each street corner to help

us cope with our own defeat.

Shockingly, though, St. Louiss raw cool-

ness destroys most of the competition,

especially its west-of-the-Mississippi peer

group. Theres just no other city like it. While St. Louis is described as the "Gateway to the West," visitorsto this formidable city by the river will discover an historic entrepot with deep connections to the great

cities of the East Coast, from its rich historic architecture to its hard-nosed urban dialect to its extant eth-

nic enclaves. St. Louis is, decidedly, America's last eastern city. A city of grand parks, rows upon rows of

solid red-brick neighborhoods and top-tier cultural institutions, St. Louis has weathered some storms, butshe has not lost her spark.

1. Requisite example of urban decline.


2/8

Where you stay in St. Louis matters less than you think because our illustrious light rail system(MetroLink, born 1993) reliably traverses several visit-worthy core neighborhoods. If youre a purist and

stay only in downtown settings, why not settle on the Westin at Cupples Station, a historic set of ware-

houses in the shadow of Americas liveliest ballpark, Busch Stadium? Not only that, it sits atop a Metro-

Link station.

Alternatively, if youre more likely to catch a Broadway show than a ballgame, stay at the local boutique

Hotel Ignacio, just adjacent to St. Louis Universitys campus and to Grand Center, St. Louiss theater

and arts district. If you want to go more upscale and stay in a more vibrant area, opt for the famous Chase

Park Plaza in the stunningly elegant CentralWest End or the Moonrise Hotel in the funky,

pulsating Delmar Loop. Finally, if you dare,

stay in the haunted Lemp Mansion, a beauti-

ful B&B that witnessed some grisly Pro-hibition-era suicides among its namesake

beer baron family. Its on the South Side, nes-

tled in one of St. Louiss storied red brickneighborhoods.

Lets presume youre staying downtown at

the Westin.

A couple assumptions are about to take

place: (A) Youre in a new place, and youre

excited, so youre waking up early. (B) Youre

out of your home ZIP code, where diets dont

apply. You will eat roughly ve times per day.(C) Youre superhuman and know nothing of

this nap business. (D) Youre standing in a

beer brewing shrine of a city, so you will drinkadult beverages (E) Youre sane, and there-

fore visiting in the warmer months (March

through October).

While locals should be harangued for their marriage to vehicular solo transportation, youre visiting a city

with somewhat spread out attractions and are entirely forgivenrent/bring a car this visit. Before youhead out, tune your radio to KDHX, 88.1 on the FM dial. Among the nation's most well -supported com-

munity radio stations, KDHX is a clearinghouse of local avor, from bluegrass to electronica.

Wake up and get it out of the way. We know youre a hipster and dont want to be stereo-

typical but, cmon, youve never seen the Arch. Seriously, its okayhead east from your hotel past Busch

Stadium and go up in the Arch. No, that building with the patina-ey dome is not the Missouri Capitol (wewish). Its the Old Courthouse, built in phases between 1840 and the Civil War and now a part of what is

called the Jeerson National Expansion Memorial (which includes the Arch). The ride to the top of the 630

-foot tall stainless steel mustache (in a trippy 1960s pod that stays level despite its awkward angular as-

cent) will set you back $10. Claustrophobes need not apply.

2. The bird (hang-gliding man? hard to tell) can take theshortcut to the top of the Arch. YOU get the cramped pod-

elevator.
http://www.metrostlouis.org/Default.aspxhttp://www.metrostlouis.org/Default.aspxhttp://www.starwoodhotels.com/westin/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=1248http://www.starwoodhotels.com/westin/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=1248http://stlouis.cardinals.mlb.com/stl/ballpark/index.jsphttp://stlouis.cardinals.mlb.com/stl/ballpark/index.jsphttp://www.hotelignaciostl.com/http://www.hotelignaciostl.com/http://www.slu.edu/http://www.slu.edu/http://www.grandcenter.org/http://www.grandcenter.org/http://www.chaseparkplaza.com/http://www.chaseparkplaza.com/http://www.chaseparkplaza.com/http://www.moonrisehotel.com/http://www.moonrisehotel.com/http://www.lempmansion.com/http://www.lempmansion.com/http://www.gatewayarch.com/http://www.gatewayarch.com/http://www.nps.gov/jeff/planyourvisit/och.htmhttp://www.nps.gov/jeff/planyourvisit/och.htmhttp://www.nps.gov/jeff/planyourvisit/och.htmhttp://www.gatewayarch.com/http://www.lempmansion.com/http://www.moonrisehotel.com/http://www.chaseparkplaza.com/http://www.chaseparkplaza.com/http://www.grandcenter.org/http://www.slu.edu/http://www.hotelignaciostl.com/http://stlouis.cardinals.mlb.com/stl/ballpark/index.jsphttp://www.starwoodhotels.com/westin/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=1248http://www.metrostlouis.org/Default.aspx


3/8

Hoof it to Local Harvest Caf for breakfast in the restored Old

Post Oce(9th/Locust) downtown. Its food is either locally-sourced, organic,

or bothand most importantly, delicious. Make it quick if you want to keep this

impossibly breakneck schedule. While outside the Old Post Oce, spin around.

Youre in the heart of old downtown, with its turn-of-the-century stock of oce

buildings splayed out on a narrow street grid inspired by the early French set-tlers.

Next walk to City Museum, at 16th and Lucas. The glorious canyon

of warehouses youre strolling through is Washington Avenue, downtownscenterpiece of revitalization (seriously, in the late 1990s, nearly all of it was empty and abandoned). Make

a right (north) at 16th Street and say hello to City Museum. You might be thinking, its too early for a mu-

seum but this is not the type of museum where youll ever hear shhhh. Its literally made of the citya

good chunk of the detritus and demolition debris of the past city gets a new life here. There are manmadecaves, crawlspaces, in-line skateboarding facilities, a rooftop Ferris wheel, a fourth oor thrift store and

so much more in this whimsical monument to the notion that everything can be reused. Entry to City Mu-

seum costs $12, rooftop is an extra $5, and aquarium (yes, aquarium) an extra $6. Dont sweat the cash

basically everything else even remotely

touristy is completely free of charge ornear to it.

You spent a few hours

clambering around City Museum and

burnt enough calories to be hungry

again. Make your way back to the hotel,

grab the car, and drive to Blues City Deliin the delightful, red brick Benton Park

neighborhood. If youre lucky, this hom-

age to blues towns (New Orleans, Mem-phis, STL, and Chicago) will have somelive music for you to munch to. If thats

the case, the party usually spills out onto

the streets.

Since youre already in

Benton Park, hop back in the car and

head east to Soulard, St. Louiss oldest

neighborhood. Soulard is home to doz-ens of corner bars and restaurants, near-

ly all of them in mid to late 1800s redbrick classic buildings. This national and

local historic district also plays host to a

particularly large and raucous Mardi Gras

celebration in wintertime, so the fact that its name in French translates to drunkard is only tting. Once

in the neighborhood, stop by Soulard Market(9th/Lafayette), the citys last remaining public market andthe oldest one west of the Mississippi. After youve loaded up on spices, trinkets, and hurricanes from

Julias, a stand inside the market, jump back in the car and head south to the looming Anheuser Busch

complex at 12th and Lynch.

3. Soulard Streetscape - quintessential red brick St. Louis.
http://localharvestcafe.com/downtown/http://localharvestcafe.com/downtown/http://www.oldpostofficestl.com/http://www.oldpostofficestl.com/http://www.oldpostofficestl.com/http://www.citymuseum.org/http://www.citymuseum.org/http://www.bluescitydeli.com/http://www.bluescitydeli.com/http://soulard.org/http://soulard.org/http://www.mardigrasinc.com/http://www.mardigrasinc.com/http://www.soulardmarket.com/http://www.soulardmarket.com/http://www.soulardmarket.com/http://www.mardigrasinc.com/http://soulard.org/http://www.bluescitydeli.com/http://www.citymuseum.org/http://www.oldpostofficestl.com/http://www.oldpostofficestl.com/http://localharvestcafe.com/downtown/


4/8

Take the FREE Anheuser-Busch tour, which comes with two complimentary beers for the

21+ crowd.

Assuming theres a

sober member of the party, nd

the vehicle and head south toCherokee Streetthe nexus of

creativity in the St. Louis region.You might as well park on the

east end of the street and justplan on walking back on the op-

posite side of the street. East of

Jeerson, the building stock is

older and the businesses tendtowards antiques (this is old An-

tique Row, after all). West of

Jeerson, the grittier side of

Cherokee comes out. This is

home to the citys most thrivingHispanic/Latino business area,

interspersed with random hip-

steric oerings.

Notable attractions (from east

to west include): the Mud House

(where your barista will surpriseyou with latte art); St. Louis Cu-

rio Shoppe (an all-STL, all the

time gift shopnothing in it ismade more than 50 miles from the heart of the city); Fortune Teller Bar(True to its name, fortune tellersdescend upon this hipster watering hole on weekend nights); La Vallesana(awesome and authentic taco

stand); and Firecracker Press (old-fashioned printing press retail shop with some killer designs). No trip

to Cherokee Streetor St. Louiswould be complete without at least poking your head in the STyLe-

house. STyLehouse is a t-shirt shop run by local boosters and entrepreneur twin brothers Je and RandyVines. Their fount of knowledge of, and passion for, this city could render this

guide moot in mere minutes. (Related: their Instagram photography pep-

pers this guide).

Fire up the car and head to Forest Parkthe 1,300 acre, attrac-

tion-laden, largest urban park in the region (and one of the largest in the

country). Youre running fairly late in the day (most attractions close around

5), so just pick one of these to do: Science Center, Boathouse, Art Museum,

the Municipal Opera (The Muny), Jewel Box, or Missouri History Museum. A

recommendation: the St. Louis Zoo is among the top-rated in the country

and is totally free to enter.

Its time to head to the Central West End (CWE), a bustling neighborhood located at the

northeast corner of Forest Park. If youre hungry, you have plenty of options: Greek at the Majestic, Indi-

an at India Rasoi, deep dish style pizza (which President Barack Obama dubbed the best in the nation

4. Cherokee Street, where roadway is canvass.
http://www.budweisertours.com/z01/http://www.budweisertours.com/z01/http://www.budweisertours.com/z01/http://www.budweisertours.com/z01/http://www.cherokeestreetnews.org/http://www.cherokeestreetnews.org/http://themudhousestl.com/http://themudhousestl.com/http://www.stlcurioshoppe.com/http://www.stlcurioshoppe.com/http://www.stlcurioshoppe.com/http://thefortunetellerbar.com/http://thefortunetellerbar.com/https://www.facebook.com/lavallesanahttps://www.facebook.com/lavallesanahttp://www.firecrackerpress.com/http://www.firecrackerpress.com/http://stl-style.com/http://stl-style.com/http://stl-style.com/http://forum.skyscraperpage.com/showthread.php?t=203635http://forum.skyscraperpage.com/showthread.php?t=203635http://www.forestparkforever.org/http://www.forestparkforever.org/http://www.stlzoo.org/http://www.stlzoo.org/http://www.thecwe.com/http://www.thecwe.com/http://www.themajesticrestaurant.com/http://www.themajesticrestaurant.com/http://www.rasoi.com/http://www.rasoi.com/http://www.rasoi.com/http://www.themajesticrestaurant.com/http://www.thecwe.com/http://www.stlzoo.org/http://www.forestparkforever.org/http://forum.skyscraperpage.com/showthread.php?t=203635http://stl-style.com/http://stl-style.com/http://www.firecrackerpress.com/https://www.facebook.com/lavallesanahttp://thefortunetellerbar.com/http://www.stlcurioshoppe.com/http://www.stlcurioshoppe.com/http://themudhousestl.com/http://www.cherokeestreetnews.org/http://www.budweisertours.com/z01/


5/8

during a 2008 campaign stop) at Pi Pizzeria, gastropub oerings at Dressels, and burgers/sushi at Sub Zero

(which also has one of the largest vodka selections in the world). If you are a whiskey-for-dinner type, dont

skip out on Brennans. Grab some food and then walk it o along the neighborhoods stately private streets.

West of Kingshighway sit two of the citys most grandPortland and Westmoreland Places. Enter on Lake

Avenue from the south and walk until private security questions your pres-

ence. Dont worrytell security youre from out of town and they may evenlet you continue on your stroll.

You might be tired of driving, so leave your vehicle on the street

in the CWE and hop on the MetroLink westbound (Red Line to Lambert Air-port). Depart at the Loop Station and head west. You are now in the Delmar

Loopyet another astonishingly revitalized area of the city that was once ter-

ribly disinvested. The Loop of today is St. Louiss best independent boutique

and local shopping destination, not to mention an entertainment hotspot witha lounge/bowling alley (the Pin Up), a top-rated music venue (Pageant), a

beautifully restored movie theater (the Tivoli) and the St. Louis Walk of Fame (look down at the stars on the

sidewalk for a history lesson on who made St. Louis great). If you really want to get the lay of the land, take

the elevator in the quirky Moonrise Hotel to the roof, where theres a bar with sweeping views of everything

from the Arch, 8 miles east, to sub-urban oce center Clayton just to

the southwest.

If youre here for shopping, do not

miss the patchouli-scented, old

school Vintage Vinylrecord store or

relative Loop newcomer and stylishclothing purveyor Devil City, If

youre a music fan (of course you

are), note that St. Louis is veryproud to be the birthplaceandhome, stillof rock n roll forefa-

ther Chuck Berry. In fact, Mr. Berry

performs at the Loops Blueberry

Hill once a month, to this day. Ifyoure in town during one of his per-

formances, you are obligated to pay

homage.

Head back to MetroLink

(this time, walk down statelySkinker Boulevard and take the Blue

Line back to the Central West End).

Pick up your vehicle and drive east

to Lafayette Square. The Square is

one of St. Louiss most ornate neighborhoods, replete with limestone-clad Victorian-era Painted Ladiesthat ring the oldest park west of the Mississippi River (yep, you guessed it, Lafayette Park). It is also home to

an intimate business district on Park Avenue. Youll want to grab a drink or two at BaileysChocolate Bar,

with its signature chocolate martinis and an ambience nearly as aphrodisiacal as chocolate itself. If you

skipped dinner earlier, check out the renowned 1111 Mississippirestaurant, or rooftop bar Vin de Set.

5. The Central West Enda second skyline for the city
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6/8

Denitely be sure to wander the neighborhood, thoughone of the nations oldest private streets, Ben-

ton Place, sits just north of the park and is well worth a jaunt.

Head back downtown, nally. If youre going to call it a night (boo!), why not stop for a

nightcap within a stones throw of your hotel? Head to the 360 Bar at the Hilton (rooftop) for panoramic

skyline views and tasty cocktails. If youre not ready to quit (yay!), its time to head to the Grove(MetroLink accessible via a long-ish walk, but you might as well cab it). The Grove (also known as Forest

Park Southeast) is a lively strip of bars, from lesbian and gay bars to hipster havens to music venues andmore. If youre in the mood for some world-renowned mixological magic, stop over at the Day of the

Dead-like Sanctuaria. Then go dance o the caloric intake for the day at Atomic Cowboyand/or Handle-barand/or Novaks.

Think all life ends in this sleepy Mid-

western hamlet in the wee hours? Think again.Some liver-hating individuals cross the River into

Illinois to take advantage of its 6 AM liquor li -

censes (and, well, its carnal oerings of the adult

variety). But lets leave Metro East alone for your

rst visit (aside: do eventually visit CahokiaMounds on the Illinois side of the riverits one

of the largest pre-European settlements in North

America. Its earthen mounds are all that remains

of the onetime Native American metropolis. The

tallest of them, Monks Mound, oers sweeping

views of downtown St. Louis, a poetic visual colli-

sion of two civilizations. Ahem, we now return toyour regularly scheduled program of strip clubs

and other late night salaciousness).

Staying on the Missouri side, your only option isto head to one of the citys many diners. If you

brought a car and a designated driver, head down

to the 24-

hour Uncle Bills Pancake House, where youll see all types of St.Louis revelers brushing shoulders in this mock-Tudor style roadside

attraction. Equally popular, and also on South Kingshighway, is the

more straight-up greasy spoon Courtesy Diner. Order the St. Louis

Slinger here for a window into one of St. Louiss odd culinary crea-tions. For a more urbane people-watching experience, plant your-

self on 24-hour Coee Cartels patio in the Central West End. Slurp

down some coee to sober up, and reject the notion that this city

is some washed up has-been. Were nowhere near it.

So this brings us to the end of the (admittedly impossibly dense)

tour. And you havent even set foot in St. Louiss authentic Little Italy, the Hill,where Italian restaurants

and Virgin Mary statues outnumber residents. Or the Irish neighborhood at the foot of Forest Park,

6. Nightlife in St. Louis - just loiter in the street of your

choice.
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7/8

Dogtown, where St. Pattys day celebrants

gather. Or Old North St. Louis, home of St.

Louiss oldest soda fountain Crown Candy

and revitalization hotspot after decades of

devastating decline. Not even a cameo for

South Grandeither, with its veritable buetof international eateries. You havent

brunched in the oddball Bevo Mill, orstrolledthrough the worlds rst (and greatest) geo-

desic dome conservatory (the Climatronin-side the Missouri Botanical Garden). You

havent yet tried a Gus Pretzelfrom a street-

side vendor or sampled the neighborhood-

themed cocktails at The Royale. And youdont know the meaning of the term soul

yet, because you havent heard it belted from

the chops of our citys own Kim Massieat

Beale on Broadway.

Obviously, no great city can be experienced in

its entirety in 24 hours. But you shouldnt take

that as an endorsement to quell your curiosity to

further explore our old, battered and beautiful city. This Red Brick Mama has always -open arms for any-

one with a soft spot for a gritty embrace. Three million area residents cant be wrong. Right?

7. C'mon just look at our city. Youll be back!

Soulard

SOULARD

MARDIGRAS

FEBRUARY

Sat. before Fat Tues.Delmar Loop

LOOP ICE

CARNIVAL

JANUARY

3rd Weekend Dogtown

ST.

PATRICKSDAY

MARCH

March 17th Forest Park

ST. LOUIS

EARTH DAY

APRIL

Sun. nearest to 20th

Soldiers Memorial

PRIDEFESTST. LOUIS

JUNE

Last weekendCherokee Street

CINCO DEMAYO

MAY

Sat. nearest to 5thDowntown

FAIRST. LOUIS

JULY

July 4th Tower Grove Park

FESTIVAL

OF

NATIONS

AUGUST

3rd/4th Weekend

Central West End

CENTRALWEST END

HALLO-WEEN

OCTOBER

Sat. nearest to 31stForest Park

FORESTPARK

BALLOONGLOW

SEPTEMBER

2nd/3rd Weekend Multiple Theaters

ST. LOUISINTL FILM

FESTIVAL

NOVEMBER

2nd + 3rd Week Grand Center

FIRST NIGHTDECEMBER

December 31st
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dogtown,_St._Louishttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dogtown,_St._Louishttp://www.onsl.org/http://www.onsl.org/http://crowncandykitchen.net/http://crowncandykitchen.net/http://www.southgrand.org/http://www.southgrand.org/http://www.thebevomill.com/http://www.thebevomill.com/http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/our-garden/gardens-conservatories/conservatories/climatron.aspxhttp://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/our-garden/gardens-conservatories/conservatories/climatron.aspxhttp://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/http://www.guspretzels.com/http://www.guspretzels.com/http://www.theroyale.com/http://www.theroyale.com/http://kimmassie.com/http://kimmassie.com/http://www.bealeonbroadway.com/http://www.bealeonbroadway.com/http://www.bealeonbroadway.com/http://kimmassie.com/http://www.theroyale.com/http://www.guspretzels.com/http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/our-garden/gardens-conservatories/conservatories/climatron.aspxhttp://www.thebevomill.com/http://www.southgrand.org/http://crowncandykitchen.net/http://www.onsl.org/http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dogtown,_St._Louis


8/8

Image courtesy ofExplore St. Louisand the St. Louis Convention & Visitors Commission, which are in no way aliated

with this guide. We just love their map.

City Population (2010): 319,294Metro Population (2010): 2,812,896City SIZE: 61.9 square miles

(1.2X the size of San Francisco;0.2X the size of Kansas City)

Founded in 1764.

We have the most free attractions outside of Washington, D.C. Baltimoreans take note: St. Louis is the only other major city in the nation to have divorced its name-

sake county. St. Louis City is a completely separate entity from St. Louis County since 1876. Locals will

often use the word County as an adjectival shorthand for suburbani.e., if someone leaves their

purse visible on the seat inside their car, youd say, Oh, shes so County.

There are more stop signs than people in St. Louis.

When out at a restaurant, ask for your ravioli toasted and do be sure to also try: gooey butter cake, pork

steaks, provel cheese on a St. Louis-Style Pizza (you wont like it, but should still try), and the aforemen-

tioned slinger. Not that frozen custard is a St. Louis-only thing, but it is done best at Route 66 stop TedDrewes! The lines speak for themselves.

We think our city ag is better than Chicagos (see Page 1 of this guide, top left); we KNOW our Cardi-

nalsare better than their Cubs.

Visitors from Indiana: DO NOT call a St. Louisan a hoosier or let on that you are one unless you wantto elicit laughter. For mysterious reasons, in St. Louis only, the term connotes an urban redneck of

sorts.

Created February 11, 2013
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guide to st. louis for rustwire - february 2013

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