FINNLIFE®

LOG CABINSBUILD GUIDE, PARTSAND PLANS LIST

In most cases you do not need planning permission to build alog cabin in your garden; it is usually also exempt from buildingregulations. It would be advantageous to contact your local

authority to ensure they are happy for you to proceed beforearranging installation.

Chisel Drill with timber bits Hammer Ladder Mallet

Mitre square Pencil PVA glue Safety gloves Safety goggles

Saw Screwdriver Screwdriver (electric)

Stiff brush

End grain preserver

Tape measure Quick grips Clamps Damp proof membrane

Sharp knife Spirit level

Planning consent and building regulations

Your log cabin comes wrapped in polythene for protection, andstrapped to one or more pallets (depending on the model) forease of transport.

The transit packaging allows for ventilation: it is not waterproof.Please store your wrapped cabin in a dry place, protected fromrain and sun. Ensure cabin components are not in contact withthe ground.

Delivery, checking and storage

Tool list - what you need

2

A.0. IntroductionThose lazy summer afternoons may be beckoning, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to understand how it goes together, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure.

No specialist skills are required. Anyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will vary depending on your skills and the number of people who help you.

Of course you don’t have to do it yourself. You could hand this booklet to a professional builder, then sit back until he presents you with the keys to your finished cabin.

Whoever does the job, the first stage is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The trick is to be methodical and to plan ahead.

If you’re looking for information on a specific topic, refer to the contents list below or to the glossary. For a complete parts list and detailed wall and floor plans please see the back pages within this instruction manual.

B.0. Contents

The images displayed within this literature are for illustration purpose only and generic for cabin build.They may not appear exactly as your finished product.

Before you commence with construction of your new log cabin please ensure you have a complete set of components.Using the checklist provided at the back of this booklet tick off each part as you remove it from the transit packaging.

!!!!

Planning consent and building regulationsTool list - what you needDelivery, Checking and storageFoundations & PreparationsLaying out, checking and sortingAssembling your door & window framesAttaching your door & window frame fascia'sAttaching your beadingConstructing your postsInstalling your floor beamsLaying your DPM (Damp Proof Membrane)First layer of wall boardsInstalling your door frameInstalling your post bracesBuilding up the wallsInstalling your wall plate

Installing your roof beamsInstalling your canopy panelInstalling your roof panelsEaves fascia boardsLaying roof shingleFloor PanelsAir ventsFloor PlansExploded DiagramParts ListTimber treatmentsWood - a natural materialHealth and safetyCustomer serviceGlossary

3

Foundations and preparationYou can build your log cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option youchoose, a firm and level base is essential. Time spent on the foundations is well invested. For your specificbase size please see your floor plan in the back of the booklet. An uneven or unstable base will affect thefinal outcome of the log cabin, doors and windows will NOT function properly, walls may bow and joints maynot fit together.

Concrete option:

Remove all organic matter before you start workon the foundations.

Concrete foundations should always be the exactbase size stated in the Floor Plan to minimise theamount of water that the base will carry. It isrecommended the concrete base be 150mm thick.

Gravel option:

Remove all organic matter before you start workon the foundations.

Foundations should always be laid larger than thefootprint of your cabin – 300mm wider in everydirection and 150mm thick when usingcompressed type 1 gravel.

For compressed gravel foundations you shoulduse retaining boards to keep the gravel in placeand compressed.

4

Before you begin to build you should check thatyou have a complete set of components. Check offeach piece against the parts list as you remove itfrom the transit packaging. In the unlikely eventthat there is a missing component, or that acomponent has been damaged in transit, pleasecontact the technical helpline, quoting the cabinreference number displayed on the packing labelof the transit packaging.

As you check off components lay them out on theground around the site of the cabin. Place eachcomponent close to where it will be used. Layingout helps you visualise how the cabin goestogether, and it means that components are readyto hand when you need them. You can use theBuilding Plans and Parts List as a guide to whatgoes where. Be careful not to lay components tooclose to the cabin footprint. Give yourself adequateroom to work in.

Laying out, checking and sorting

!!Please note: Do not leave parts directly on wet ground for extended periods, as excessive moisturecan damage or cause the timbers to swell.

!!Picture displayed is for illustration purpose only and may not represent your specific model.

5

Assembling your door frames

Your cabin comes supplied with door frames that do not come pre-assembled.They need to be assembled glued and screwed, since strong PVA adhesive needs time to dry, you should assemble and glue your door frames before you begin building your cabin.

The door frame is constructed of four parts the Door Jambsleft & Right, the Header and the Sill.These will need to be constructed before you cancontinue to build your cabin.

Layout the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the hinges are on the upper surface of the door jambs.(Place a protective sheet on the ground if necessary.)

Loosely arrange them to match the finished frame.

Completed door frame

Top (Header)

LHDoor Jamb

RHDoor Jamb

Bottom (Metal) (Sill)

* Please note: The bottom of the door frame (Sill) has a metal threshold.

Starting with the header, run some glue in to the corner joint.Then slot in the left side door jamb ensuring a tightfit.Using the screws provided secure together.Once tight wipe of any excess glue with a damp cloth.Repeat the process for the right hand door jamb.

Step 1 Step 2 Step 3

Now you will need to secure the sill (bottom) of the doorframe.You will notice that the seal is constructed out of metaland has turned up corners with holes in.Align these holes to the door jambs ensuring youhave positioned them correctly.The sill corners are designed to be positioned onthe outside edge of the frame so the fixings are hidden.Using the fixings supplied secure into position.

Check cross diagonals toensure frame is square andleave enough time for glue todry before installing

6

!!Attaching your door & window frame fascia's

Once the door frame is complete the next step is to fit the door frame fascias.

Place a protective sheet on the ground so the door framedoes not get damaged or marked, Then lay the door frame face down flat on the ground.Please note that the hinges will be laying towardsthe ground.

Place all of the Fascia's in situ on the doorand window frames, once they are alignedsecure using the screws provided.

Insert your door or doors in to the door fame tomake sure they fit correctly. You can adjust both doors by simply turningthe hinges on the frame sides of the doors.Please make sure both doors open and closefreely.

Attaching your beadingAlign the beading square on each door once they are in the correct location fix to the doorusing the screws provided.

Now remove both doors from the frame before fitting the frame to the cabin.

Please note: This section shows double doors, however the same principles apply to single doors & windows.

Top Tip:

To ease installation of your door or windowframes, do not fully tighten the screws until the door and window frames are in position.

Please note: Do NOT attach the double door fascia's for this model at this stage, as this will effect installing the door frame into the building.

!!!!Please note: The beadings are supplied with two size screws, long screws for the horizontal beading, and short screws for the vertical beading.Please ensure that the correct screws are used in the correct location, if wrong screws are used they may damage the glass within the window or door.

7

Installing your floor beams

Your finished cabin rests on a series of beams reffered to as floor beams. They provide a solid base and raise the cabin off the ground for ventilation.

To prevent damp rising into your cabin, each floor beam should be covered by two strips of damp-proof membrane.(Product not supplied)You can purchase a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane and cut into strips as required.

Floor beams are easy to identify. They are impregnated with a long-lasting preservative that makes them appear darker in colour.Although each beam is pressure treated, any freshly exposed timber or cuts must be treated with an end grain preserver.(Product not supplied)

*The layout of floor beams depends on your cabin model; please refer to your Building Plans towards the end of this guide.

Since all floor beams come in standard 2.4m lengths, you will have to join lengths of floor beams for walls which are in excess of 2.4m.Ensure you have checked off your components for your foundations, as you will need to cut these parts to the required lengths.The first stage in creating your base for your cabin is to form an external ring foundation which the cabin wall logs will rest upon.Cut some of the floor beams according to the floor beam layout , securing the beams together at 45° Use two screws at either end. (Screws not supplied) Before installing the internal floor beams ensure the ring foundation is square and secure.

Floor Beams

Ring Foundation

Constructing your posts

Once you have installed the corners of your cabin, you will need to join together the front corner posts.

Using the screws provided join together the two halvesensuring they are square & flush at the ends.

8

!!

!!

Laying your DPM (Damp Proof Membrane)Your cabin rests on a set of floor beams, these will be in contact with your foundation base.

We advise that you place a DPM (Damp Proof Membrane) on top of your ring foundation and floor beams to prevent moisture ingress into the cabin walls.

Cut a sheet of DPM into strips roughly 68mm wide for both the ring foundation and floor beams.

It is critical to fit a DPM according to instructions.

Line your strips of DPM around the ring foundation.Position the DPM to leave approx 18mm of exposed area of ring foundation.You will need to lay 2 layers of DPM around theperimeter area of the ring foundation only.You will find you have a large amount of excessDPM on the inside edge of the ring foundation. Do not worry at this stage as the bottom layer will be positioned under your floor boards and the top layer must be turned up and secured tothe cabin walls as instructed within this guide.

Cut further strips to the width of your central floor beams. Approx 68 mm. Lay these on top of the floor beams.

*Please note that when your cabin is fullyconstructed, a line of sealant must be applied around the base of the cabin walls, between your ring foundation and the bottom ofthe cabin.This is to prevent moisture from sitting on your ring foundation.

18mm 18mm68mm

9

!!

first layer of wall boards

Wall boards and posts have been machined for a secure fit. Before you use a wall board or post, it’s worth running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any stray sawdust. Sawdust-free jointsresult in a better fit. Walls are built by inserting wall boards into the posts at right angles to one another.Individual wall boards are identified by reference to the Parts List featured towards the end of this guide, weadvise you measure them before continuing to construct, so that the correct wall boards are being used in the correct position.

Start with a post and a couple of wall boards. They form the corner structure of the cabin.Position the post over the corner of the ring foundation ensuring the post has a 10mm overhang beond the ring foundation. See image.Slot in a couple of wall boards into the post at right angles ensuring they are pushed in firmly.

Ensure the post is in the vertical position and the wall boards are level.(Use a spirit level to check this.)Secure corner bracket to the post and first two wall boards approximately 65mm up from the bottom edge and secure using the screwsprovided.

Note.There are different types of corner brackets,please refer to parts list for details.

65mm

Repeat the process for the remaining walls.

Q1-28

Q4-28

10

Installing your door frame

!!

Once you have attached all your corner brackets you will need to insert your door frames.

Door and frames do not come pre-assembled. If you have not yet put your door frame together, refer to Assembling your door frame Section earlier for assembly details. Installing the assembled unit into your cabin is one job that could benefit from a second pair of hands. All doors open outwards. Make sure you install them in the correct way.

Please note: We advise you to only position the door frame without the doors hung, as excess weight and pressure on the frame will cause the frame to twist.

Please note:There may be a gap above the doors which will close up over time. (approx 30 - 50mm)The gap is there to allow for settling within the building. Please do not block the opening as this may prevent the cabin from settling naturally.

The posts and door frames are supplied with grooves in to allow for a supporting piece of timber.

Insert the timber in to your posts and secure to the post using the screws provided.

Once the timber battens have been fixed into position you willneed to install your door frame without the back fasciasattached.

Insert the frame into position and ensure the frame is tight to the posts.

Check the frame is square and that you are happy with theposition.Using the screws provided. screw through the sides of the door frame and into the supporting batten and the post.

Once in the correct position attach the internal fascias using the screws provided.

11

These help add additional support and strength to the building during construction.

Starting on the back wall of the building, position the post brace into the post. Using the next post brace as a guide, position so that the outside edges are flush with each other.(See image)Secure into position using the screws provided.

The top of the post has a rebateto allow the post brace to sitinto position correctly.

Repeat the process for the remaining post braces, ensuring they are sat on the rebated area and are flush on the outside edge.

Before continuing to fix the remaining post braces, position the post brace above the doors, as securing at a later stage may be difficult.

Installing your post braces

12

Building up the walls

Continue to build your cabin by inserting wall boards into your posts up to the 6th layer.

Remove the windows from the window frame, and slot into position.Tap the frame down lightly to ensure they are seated correctly.

Once the window frames are in position continue to insert your remaining wall boards..

13

Installing your wall plate

The next stage is to install your wall plate ,this is the platform for your roof beams to be attached to.

Locate your wall plate timbers and position them so the inside edge of the wall plate is flush with the inside edge of the post.

Using the screws supplied secure the first wall plate into position screwing down into the post.

14

!!

Installing your roof beams

The next process may require an additional pair of hand as you will need to lift the roof beams and brackets into position.

Begin by laying out the components (roof and ridge beams and connecting junction boxes) on the ground in an arrangement that matches their eventual positions on the roof.

Position the lower ends of the roof beams so they are central to the corner of the wall plate.Ensure they do not overhang the wall plate and secure into position using the screws provided.

Slot all the roof beams into the metal bracket ensuring they are seated correctly.Making sure that the top edge of the roof beams are flush with the bracket, secure into position using the screws provided.

Carefully lift the the roof beams and bracketinto position.

15

Installing your canopy panel

The cabin will have a front overhang which will expose the roof beams and the underside of the roof.

You will need to install the canopy panel to help secure the cabin.

Locate your canopy panel and battens.

Position the battens so the are flush with the top edge of the post braces and are touching the underside of the wall plate.

Secure into position using the fixings provided.

Locate the canopy panel and position up to the battens previously fitted.

Secure into position using the fixings provided.

16

!!

Installing your roof panels

The OSB roof panels are nailed in sequence to the underlying ridge and roof beams and wall plate.Start at the with the highly visible panels. If later panels require trimming to fit,they’ll be the ones out of sight at the back. You should aim to leave a gap of around 5mm between adjacent pairs of panel edges that runparallel to the roof beams. You can close other gaps up tighter,but there may still be chinks of light between them. None of these gaps will let the rain in–the felt roofing materials will cover them up. It helps to lay all the roof panels out on the ground before you start. You get the sequence right and you can check that the tongue and groove jointsare a good fit.

Layout the roof panels on the ground in a clockwise order starting at the front. Check the tongue and groove joints by slotting the panels for each of the five roof sections together. Use a knife or chisel tofree any that don’t fit.

Measure and mark the midway points near the upper and lower ends of all four roof beams. Drive asingle nail part way into each marked point on every roof beam. The nails act as temporily guides. Remove them later as you work round the roof.

The next process will require an additional pair of hand as you will need to lift the roof panels into position.

Z1 Z2 Z3

Z1

Z

2

Z

3

Z1 Z2 Z3 Z3 Z2 Z1

Lift the first centre panel up onto the roof.Using the nails as a guide, position the roof panel central to the roof beams, temporily secure into position using nails.

Position the remaining two panels either side of the centre panel ensuring they are central to the roof beams.

Measure the overhang of the panels to ensure they all match and then temporary secure.

17

Installing your roof panels (Continued)

Locate your next set of roof panels and position onto the roof beams.Adjust the panel to ensure it is positioned correctly and the overhang on the lower section of the panel matches the previous panel laid.

When lining up the panels ensure you leave a slight gap between the panel sections on the roof joists.This will allow you to reposition the panel later on should further adjustments be needed.

Temporarily nail the roof panels to the roof beamsand wall plate. Do not drive the fixings home fully as you may need to make adjustments.

Repeat the process for the remaining roof panels ensuring slight gaps are left between the adjoining panels

When all four roof sections are in place, and you arehappy, then fix the roof boards by driving down allnails.

You may need to re-align the roof panels to ensure a better fit. Once you have fitted all of the roof panels you may find that the bottom edges (eaves) do not line up perfectly, You can trim these to fit using a saw.

18

Installing your eaves fascia

The eaves fascia boards are supplied oversize. Cutting them to fit is easiest if you line up each length in turn along the eaves and mark them with mitre lines that correspond with the lines of the roof hips.

Choose an appropriatelength of eaves fascia boardfor the eaves. Temporarilynail it to the edge of theoverhanging roof panel. Donot nail it all the waybecause you will have toremove it to trim the ends.Make sure that the upperedge of the fascia board isflush with the upper surfaceof the roof and that theoversized ends are roughlyequal.

Mark mitres at both endsacross the upper edge of theeaves fascia board. Use theline of the roof hips as aguide. Use a pencil toextend it across the eavesfascia board.

!!This is a compound mitre.Take great care to ensurethat both angles arecorrect before cutting

19

Installing your eaves fascia (Continued)

Remove the board, cut tosize along the marked line,then realign with the roofpanel and nail down securely.

Repeat the process for the remaining roof eaves.

20

Remove all debris and stray sawdust from theroof. Drive home any protruding nail heads toleave a flat surface.

Lay the first row of shingles with the green/blackface uppermost and the green flaps at the top.Place the first shingle so that one side aligns withthe right-hand edge of the roof and the blackbitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Adjusttill the edge of the black bitumen extends about10mm out from the edge of the eaves fasciaboard. The 10mm overhang is known as the'water drop edge'.

Please note if you intend to use a guttering systemwith your cabin, please check you gutteringinstructions before proceeding with the shinglingprocess.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half is cut in two places to give a decorative finish which gives the appearance ofindividual shingles or tabs once laid. the upper half is coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laidwith the decorative flaps at the bottom. Lay roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use abitumen shingle adhesive (NOT SUPPLIED) on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity ofthe shingle life. Proceed with caution when working on the roof: for your own safety, and to avoid damaging the shingles. The roof isnot designed to take the weight of a person. Always use a ladder which is secure, and on level ground. Be careful not to let sharptools damage the roofing materials or to let tools or materials fall on to people below.

Please note that for illustration purpose the shingles shown are green, however the colour of the shingle supplied within you cabinare model specific.

The quantities of shingle included within your log cabin have been tested to ensure that you have enough coverage for the wholeroof. Here are some tips to help ensure you get the maximum coverage from the roofing shingles supplied.

*When counting shingles please note that 21 sheets are supplied with each pack. (See parts list for details)

*Each new row should be laid so that the decorative edge of the shingle finishes just above (2-3mm) the top of the slit in the tabs of the shingle below.

*Any off-cuts should be used to either start a new row or end a row where possible.

*Many un-used off-cuts may be suitable for cutting into ridge caps.

laying roofing shingle

21

Secure the shingle with four clout nails driventhrough the bitumen patches on the shingle intothe roof boards. Complete the row by laying moreshingles edge-to-edge until the entire length ofthe eaves is covered. Trim the excess from theleft-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces forlater use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Laythis row (and all subsequent rows) with thegreen/black face uppermost and the green flapsat the bottom.

Align the second row of shingles so that thelower edge of the green flaps are just proud ofthe roof edge. Secure with four clout nails driventhrough the lower green part. Locate these nailsjust below the line that separates black bitumenfrom decorative green. Properly located nails willbe obscured by subsequent layers of shingles.

Trim the last shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces forlater use.

Lay the first shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge ofthe roof. Adjust its height until the tips of thedecorative flaps align above with the tops of theslits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down shingle as directed in the previousstage.

22

From now on each row has to be parallel with therow below to create an even pattern. Start everyrow from the left-hand end of the roof. In eachcase the first shingle in the row must be offset tothe left by half a flap, i.e. by one sixth of its totallength. That means that the centres of the flaps ofthe current row will align with the gaps betweenthe flaps in the row below.

Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right,edge-to-edge, to complete a full row. Trim theexcess from both ends and retain cut pieces forlater use.

23

Continue laying rows of shingles from left to right,giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left.Where possible, use the trimmed pieces youhave already saved as the first or last shingles inthe row.

When you reach the final row, the upper edge ofthe shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge.Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down.

Repeat the process for the opposite side.

Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridgeshingles. Cut them by extending the slits betweenthe flaps right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with any trimmed pieces leftover from lower rows.

To complete each ridge shingle, you should taperthe half containing the black bitumen. Start thetaper at the point where the original slit ended.Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen.Take the taper in about 10mm at either side ofthe bitumen.

24

Lay ridge shingles carefully over the ridge withoutcreasing. Begin from the front of the cabin bylaying a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridgeso that the tip of the green edge is flush with theleading edge of the roof boards. Secure by drivingtwo clout nails through the black bitumen oneither side of the roof ridge.

Lay the second and subsequent ridge shingles sothat the green half completely covers the bitumenof the preceding shingle. In each case, drive cloutnails through the black bitumen to secure.

You will have laid the last ridge shingle when thereis no black bitumen showing after you havetrimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it tosecure.

25

floor panels

Lay the OSB floor panels last. That way you minimize the chance of getting them dirty when working on other tasks. If panels don’t quite fit, use a knife or chisel to shave off excess timber.

Once the panels are down, you won’t know where the underlying floor beams are. It’s worth marking the positions on the upper faces of the floor panels before they go down.

Some panels have pre-cut notches to fit around the door frames. Make sure they go in the right place.

Locate your floor panels and lay them out on the floor in the order for each room.

Check the tongues and grooves on the edges of the panels, ensure they are clean and clear and ready for use.

Before you lay your first board you will need toadjust the DPM (Damp Proof Membrane) layers you laid previously at the start of the build.

You will have laid two layers of DPM, thefloorboards will need to be positioned only onthe bottom layer of DPM.(See illustration)

The top layer of DPM will need to be lifted upand secured to the wall. You can temporallytack the top layer to the wall - Keeping it clear of the floorboards.

You will need to cut in the corners of the top layer to allow you to turn the DPM up. !!!!

Do Not cut through the bottom layer of DPM!Do Not cut through the bottom layer of DPM!

Wall Board

FFloor Board

Top DPM

Ring Foundation

VL1

VL4

VL3

VL2

26

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Position the third floor panel into position, ensuring it slots on to the previously laid floor panels.Make sure the panels are sat correctly on the floor beams and temporary secure into position.

Position the final floor panel within theroom, ensure it can slot over thepost and the tongue and slot into thegroove of the previously laid board.

Push the panel into position and finallysecure using the fixing supplied.

Once all the floor panels are in the correct location finally secure the floor boards into position.

Locate you second floor panel and adjust up to the doorway and ensure it slots into the previously laid board.

Once again ensure the floor panel is positioned on the underlaying floor beam.Once in position temporary secure using the nails provided.

Before laying the floor panels we advise you to mark the centre positions of the floor beams on the lower wall boards, as this will assist you when fixing the floor panel.

Do not secure the floor panel in place yet as you may have to manoeuvre the floor panel to allow any remaining to fit into place.

27

Air vents

Locate the air vents and the fixings.

Decide on the location of the air vents, this should be on opposing walls.

The first air vent should be placed on the 2nd wall log from the bottom approximately 300mm in from the corner.

Use a 25mm spade bit or drill bit and drill 4 holes evenly as shown in the diagram.

Attach air vent face plate as shown in the diagram using the fixings supplied.

Place the second air vent on the opposing wall, on the second wall board below the eaves height.Position 300mm in from the corner.

Use a 25mm spade bit or drill bit and drill 4 holes evenly as shown (roof removed for illustration).

Attach air vent facia plate as shown in the diagram using the fixings supplied.

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C

C1

C

C

C

VR

VP

VR VRVR

VR

R1

R2T1

R1T

T

H

H

Y

Y

YT

T

NV3

G

D

PP

VL3

VL2

VL4

VL1

M

AK

AK-1

Z3

Z2

Z2

Z2

G3

Z2

Z1

Z1

Z3

Z3

Z3

Z1

Z1

W

W

W

W

Y

P

B

B

B

B

R

R

F

F

F1

K

R2

P1 P2

G2

P1 P2

29

Cabin walls.

Concrete foundation (optional) - this should be made to the samedimensions as the stated floor plan.

Compressed gravel (optional) - this should be made 300mm largerthan the stated floor plan in each direction.

Base sizes shown are a minimum requirement.

1.617

1.607m

1.60

6m

2.64

0m

2.75

0m

2.750m

2.638m

(Window)1.070m x 1.310m

(Door)

1.370m x 1.910m

1.07

0m x

1.3

10m

(Win

dow

)

2.401m 0.262m

0.655m 0.790m 0.805m 0.345m

0.851m 1.744m

0.705m 1.548m

1.640m

1.594m

0.45

8m2.

136m

2.73

0m

0.14

3m0.

545m

0.54

5m0.

545m

0.54

4m

1.59

2m

1.608m

Floor Plan

Floor Beam Layout

30

Parts list

A B C part ref. quantity checklist

2610 27 133 M 16 c

2610 27 133 K 16 c

1535 27 133 C1 1 c

1498 27 133 B 10 c

165 27 133 C 44 c

1200 32 57 F 4 c

1500 32 57 F1 2 c

2160 86 86 P 3 c

2160 55 88 P1 2 c

2160 55 88 P2 2 c

1000 18 38 G2 2 c

1440 18 38 G3 1 c

1890 27 38 H 2 c

2245 18 44 VP 4 c

155448 Parts List

list of parts

B

C

A

BC

A

B

C

B

C

B

C

C

B A

CB

A

CB

A

CB

31

A B C part ref. quantity checklist

2806 19 115 T 4 c

1567 19 115 T1 1 c

3300 18 55 W 4 c

2020 45 90 Y 4 c

AK 1 c

693 1109 Z1 4 c

1800 1200 Z2 4 c

963 1109 Z3 4 c

list of parts

2 c

1960

WG2281200 1460

155448 parts list continued…

Roof Cap

DG328 1 c1500

A

CB

CB A

CB

A

A

Z1 Z2 Z3

A

C

32

A B C part ref. quantity checklist

D4 1 c

W7A 4 c

W5A 4 c

Q1-28 3 c

NV3 1 c

Q4-28 2 c

RO 4 c

AK1 1 c

60 4 SC5 30 c

40 4 SC3 125 c

30 4 SC2 25 c

20 4 SC1 4 c

20 4 BK2 170 c

Four-Way Centre Roof Bracket

Door Frame Bracket

Air Vent

Bolts

Door Handle

Window Handle

Window Stay

Wall Board Bracket

list of parts

155448 parts list continued…

33

Parts list

A B C part ref. quantity checklist

45 2 DR 650 c

15 3 AS 480 c

2400 28 68 VR 8 c

2720 34 115 R1 2 c

2788 34 115 R2 2 c

1695 200 VL1 1 c

2440 230 VL2 1 c

2440 1200 VL3 1 c

2440 1200 VL4 1 c

RS6 126 c

list of parts

155448 parts list continued…

1 c

Roofing Shingle

1100 1100 G

C

BA

A

VL1

VL4

VL3

VL2

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Timber treatmentsYour log cabin will last longer if you treat the timbers (interiorand exterior) with preservative. Do not treat your timbers untilyou have completely finished building.

NB: DO NOT TREAT THE INTERNAL WALLS OF YOUR CABINIF YOU INTEND TO USE IT AS A SAUNA.

Wood - a natural materialWood is a natural material. No two boards in your cabin arealike. They will expand and contract to reflect changes in themoisture content of their surroundings. They come with naturalmarkings and imperfections.

Expansion and contraction may cause slight deformation insome of your cabin components. If joints are tight, they can beeased by paring with a knife or a chisel.

After construction, the entire cabin will tend to settle. Theamount of settling varies from building to building. After a fewweeks, check joints and screws. Some screws may need to betightened or relocated. Doors and windows may needadjustment.

After a while cracks may appear in some timbers. No need toworry: cracks are natural. They will not reduce the strength orthe warmth of your cabin.

Health and safetyTake care when building your log cabin. Wear safety goggleswhen drilling, cutting, or sawing; wear gloves whenhammering. Always cut away from you when you use a knife ora chisel; do not wrap your fingers behind any piece of woodthat you are cutting or sawing.

Pay particular attention when using ladders or working on theroof. Make sure your ladder is vertical, that it stands on firmground, and that it’s leaning on a solid object. Do not leaveheavy or sharp objects in places where they could fall down.

Wood creates splinters. You can minimise the chance ofcatching a splinter in your hands by wearing safety gloves.

Take care when applying preservative. Follow themanufacturer’s instructions if preservative gets in eyes or onskin or clothes.

Keep children away from the area where you are working, andaway from ladders, tools and cabin components. Do not letthem climb on the cabin.

If you want to discuss any aspect of the construction or care ofyour cabin, or if you want to report a damaged or missingcomponent, please contact your technical team - their details

are stated on your confirmation letter, quoting the referencenumber displayed on the transit packaging.

Customer service

Glossary

door and window surroundcabin reference number

unique reference number to identify your cabin in case of a query – found on the packing label

cross-diagonalmeasured length from corner to corner – whencross-diagonals are equal, your cabin is square

DPMdamp proof membrane

eaveslowest part of the roof slope

fascia boardboard attached to eaves or gable to cover exposed edges ofroof boards

fascia cover boardboard attached to eaves or gable to cover joint between roof boards and fascia boards

floor beamdarker impregnated beam that supports the floors

frame cappingcapping with an L-shaped cross-section for the topmost architraves of doors and windows

gabletriangular section of wall between the two roof slopes

roof beamintermediate supporting beam for roof

roof boardboard that covers roof

tongue and grooveinterlocking joint between wall boards and floorboards

wall boardinterlocking wooden board used in main cabin construction

Some of the terms used in these instructions may be unfamiliar. This is what they mean.

fascia

35

METSÄ WOODEmail: uk@metsagroup.comwww.metsawood.co.uk

For technical help, please refer to the telephone numberin your confirmatiion letter.

Metsä Wood is a wood products company deliveringservice-oriented solutions developed in collaborationwith its customers. Its premium solutions are based onecological, high quality Nordic wood as a raw material.

Wood is the only building material that is truly renewable,if well managed. Forest certification schemes giveassurance that the timber is legal and from sustainablesources. Metsä Wood sources certified timber overuncertified and is an approved Chain of Custody supplier.

The photographs in this brochure are for illustrationpurposes only.

Metsä Wood reserves the right to change the rangewithout notice.

Every effort has been made to ensure that colours areaccurate within the limitations of natural lightingconditions and the four colour printing process.