emulsified egg (yolk) and oil (or butter) sauces warm hollandaise béarnaise cold mayonnaise ...
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Emulsified Egg (Yolk) and Oil (or Butter) Sauces Warm
Hollandaise Béarnaise
Cold Mayonnaise
Emulsified Butter and Acid Sauces Beurre Blanc Beurre Rouge Beurre Citron
Emulsified Butter Sauces Beurre Fondue Compound Butters
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Warm Emulsified Egg Yolk Sauces 1 large egg yolk can emulsify up to 7 ounces of oil.
Too much oil, added too fast can break the emulsification Added too slow, will make the emulsion heavy Whole butter contains water and milk solids
Weakens the emulsion but has more butter flavor Classically, use clarified butter OR… Reserve some of the water/milk solids and add back into the finished
sauce
Egg yolks are most effective as emulsifiers when warm* *Cooked yolks are very weak emulsifiers Egg yolks begin to coagulate at 144˚F An acid added to egg yolks minimizes curdling and yolks
can be heated safely to 195˚F
From the clarification
process
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Cooked Eggs-Various Temperatures
Egg Yolk begins to thicken
Egg Yolk is set
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Warm Emulsified Egg Yolk Sauces, con’t. Safety
Use clean, sanitized equipment and containers Make close to service Hold at 145˚F…1½ Hours Maximum Make small batches Never mix an old batch with a new batch
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Clarified Butter (aka., Drawn Butter) Milk Solids and Water
separated from Butterfat
Has a Higher Smoke Point
Less Flavor Emulsifies better
than whole butter
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Make Clarified Butter1. Melt the whole butter over a low flame.
Ideally use a bain marie.
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Make Clarified Butter2. Skim the whey as it floats to the top.
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Make Clarified Butter3. For Ghee or “Beurre Noisette” Brown the
milk solids
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Make Clarified Butter3. Pour Off the Clarified Butter leaving the
Water and Milk Solids behind
Milk Solids & WaterClarified Butter
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Make Clarified Butter3. OR, Separate by removing the water and
milk solids off the bottom
Milk Solids & Water
Clarified Butter
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Sauce Hollandaise Mother Sauce Warm Emulsified Sauce
Butter (Whole or Clarified) Egg Yolks Lemon Juice Salt & White Pepper Strained
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Hollandaise (& Béarnaise) Ratio 5 parts butter : 1 part
yolk : 1 part liquid 1 Pound of butter 6 Yolks 3 oz of liquid (acid)
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Liquid Portion (Acid) Fresh Lemon
Juice or Citrus Vinegar
Acid Reduction Vinegar Cracked
Peppercorns Shallots Reduced “Au
Sec”
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Make Sauce Hollandaise Ingredients
2 egg yolks 2 tablespoons water 7 ounces warm clarified butter 2 teaspoons lemon juice Salt and cayenne pepper to taste
Method Whisk yolks and water off the heat. (This the 1st emulsion) Cook the sabayon (fr. egg yolk emulsion) to “ribbon”
consistency Off the heat, whisk in clarified butter in a continuous
stream Season with salt, cayenne and lemon juice Hold at 120˚F
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Make Sauce Hollandaise :Method Details Whisk yolks and water off the heat. (This the
1st emulsion)
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Cook the sabayon (fr. egg yolk emulsion) to “ribbon” consistency
Make Sauce Hollandaise :Method Details
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Off the heat, whisk in clarified butter in a continuous stream
Make Sauce Hollandaise :Method Details
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Season with salt, cayenne and lemon juice
Make Sauce Hollandaise :Method Details
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Sauce Béarnaise More of a “sister” to hollandaise than daughter
Not made as a derivative of hollandaise, rather a version of
Faux béarnaise is hollandaise with tarragon and capers added
To make Béarnaise: Add a Béarnaise reduction to Sabayon
Béarnaise Reduction: water white wine vinegar (white wine plus white wine vinegar) shallots, minced cracked peppercorns fresh tarragon (plus chervil classically) Reduced to “au sec”…(almost dry)
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Adding Lemon Lemon is used to brighten
flavors Usually added at the end of
preparation Avoid cooking lemon…turns
bitter So…lemons are not used for
acid reductions
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Broken Hollandaise Too Hot , Too Cool, or Too much Oil added Too
Fast1.Gently correct temperature (unless
scrambled)2.Whisk sauce into a little warm water or a little
warm water mixed with an egg yolk
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Whisked Too Slowly or Butter Added Too Fast…Greasy and “Broken”
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Eggs Not Cooked Enough…Thin and Watery
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Eggs Cooked Too Much…Scrambled Eggs
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Hollandaise, Notes Clarified Butter vs. Whole Butter
Clarified Butter, Thicker and less flavorful Whole Butter, Thinner and but more flavor Best of both worlds…
Start with clarified butter and then with water/milk solids
Lemon Juice vs. Vinegar Reduction Vinegar (Escoffier) Lemon Juice, Fresher Flavor
Less than 4 yolks are easily over cooked
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Two-Minute Hollandaise
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1. Add 1 yolk, 1t. water, 1t. lemon juice & salt in a tall narrow container, mix.2. Using a immersion blender, stream in 1 stick of hot (220˚F), melted butter.3. Season with salt, and cayenne.
Cold Emulsified Egg Yolk Sauces: Mayonnaise An emulsion of egg yolk, oil, and vinegar (or
lemon juice) May be made with olive oils or any neutral oil Mustard is optional but adds flavor and helps
to emulsify Use room temperature yolks Yolk may be lightly cooked to kill any
salmonella OR… Use pasteurized egg yolks Make only small amounts and use
immediately
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Basic Mayonnaise 1 yolk : 1 liquid : 10 oil Liquid:
Mustard Lemon juice Meyer lemon juice Verjuice (very acidic juice of un-ripened grapes or
fruit) Oil:
Neutral Oils Grapeseed Canola Safflower
Olive OilFall 201128 CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Make Sauce Mayonnaise
Secure mixing bowl. Add egg yolk and mustard.
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Make Sauce Mayonnaise
Mix. Slowly add oil.
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Make Sauce Mayonnaise
Add some lemon. Season with salt and white pepper.
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Make Sauce Mayonnaise
Make only what is needed.
Real Mayo vs. Store-bought
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Aioli (Garlic Mayonnaise) Garlic Paste add to
basic mayonnaise prep
Roasted or poached garlic tempers the garlic
Saffron is sometime added
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Emulsified Butter and Acid Sauces Beurre Blanc (Beurre Rouge, Beurre Citron)
“White Butter” (“Red Butter”, “Citrus Butter”) No flour, roux, corn starch!!! Reduction of white wine, white vinegar and
shallots (“gastride”) finished with cold pieces of butter
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Make Beurre Blanc
Add wine, vinegar & aromatics.
Reduce.
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Beurre Blanc or White Butter Sauce
Traditionally 3 Ingredients: Shallots, White Wine & ButterFinely minced shallots add flavor and help emulsify the sause.
Originally made with Muscadet Wine from Nantes region of France
Any crisp-dry white may be used or any acid such as vinegar or lemon
The shallots and wine form the base of the sauce and aid in the emulsification of the sauce.
The butter should be fresh and of high-quality, COLD and cut into tablespoon-sized pieces.
Making the Beurre Blanc: the Gastride
Make the Acid Reduction or “Gastride”.
Making the Beurre Blanc: the GastrideUse a heavy-bottom pan over medium heat and combine shallots and wine.
Making the Beurre Blanc: the GastrideBring to a simmer and reduce the liquid by about 2/3’s. If not properly reduced, the final sauce will be too thin. The gastride should be reduced to a syrupy consistency.
“Au Sec”
Alternatively, reduce to liquid to almost dry (“au sec”). This concentrates the flavor. A splash of liquid is then added back to the pan to start the emulsion process.
Make the Emulsion
Over LOW heat or off the heat, whisk in the COLD butter one piece at a time…add the next piece as previous piece has just been incorporated. This helps the sauce from getting too cold.
135˚F Maximum
The sauce will break if you exceed 135˚F or the sauce is allowed to cool below 80˚F
Feel the Sauce
The sauce should feel warm but not too hot.
Sauce Consistency
The sauce should be light and airy and coat a spoon
Season
Season to taste with salt and white pepper.
Finish
If the sauce is a bit flat, add a squeeze of lemon juice to brighten the flavors. If it tastes overly acidic, whisk in more butter.
“Beurre Nantes”
For a more stable sauce, cream may be added to the gastride and reduced by about ½ before the addition of butter.
Make Beurre Blanc
Use caution that the plate is not too hot
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Make Beurre Blanc (variations)
Aromatics: Garlic, Ginger or
Lemongrass
Spices: Saffron, Pink Peppercorns or
FennelFall 201157 CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Make Beurre Rouge
Substitute Red Wine and Red Wine
VinegarFall 201158 CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Make Beurre Rouge
Goes well with fattier meats and fish
Other alcohols: Beer, Vermouth, Cognac or
CalvadosFall 201159 CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Make Beurre Rouge
Balsamic Vinegar makes a dark, less appealing sauce
Citrus and Citrus Zest may also be
used (Beurre Citron)Fall 201160 CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Make Beurre Blanc (Finish)
Truffle oil Fresh Herbs
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Make Beurre Blanc (Finish)
Tomato Concassée
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Day 10 Beurre Blanc Practical
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Today’s Lab Beurre Blanc Sauce Hollandaise Mayonnaise, Basic Eggs Benedict Macadamia Nut Crusted Snapper with a Beurre Blanc Tom Kha Gai (Chicken and Galangal Soup) Salted Caramel Ice Cream (For Next Class, ‘Desserts’)
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