DESINGED BY

Sunil KumarResearch Scholar/ Food Production FacultyInstitute of Hotel and Tourism Management,MAHARSHI DAYANAND UNIVERSITY, ROHTAKHaryana- 124001 INDIA Ph. No. 09996000499email:  skihm86@yahoo.com , balhara86@gmail.com  linkedin:- in.linkedin.com/in/ihmsunilkumarfacebook: www.facebook.com/ihmsunilkumar webpage: chefsunilkumar.tripod.com 

Fabric and Fibres

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learning objectives

To understand the meaning of the term textile. Classify different types of fibers , yarns and to learn at least

two examples of each type. Make wise selection of textile products for specific uses in

our day to day life. To learn about the fabric construction and finishes given to

each type. Care of textile products.

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What is a textile??

A textile is a flexible material comprised of a network of natural or artificial fibers often referred to as thread or yarn. Yarn is produced by spinning raw wool fibers, linen, cotton, or other material on a spinning wheel to produce long strands known as yarn.[1] Textiles are formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, or pressing

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Classification and identification of textile fibers

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Textile fibres ( based on source)

There are two types of fibers Natural fibers – they are

obtained from nature & are of 3 types: vegetable fibers, animal fibers & mineral fibers

Manmade fibers –they are obtained in various way, there are 4 types of manmade fibers: synthetic, re-generated, metallic& mineral fibers

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Length based classification

Based on there length they are staple or filament .

Staple are short, all natural fibres except silk are staple

Filament fibres are continuous and are measured in metres,

All manmade fibres are filament

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Content based classification (they can be both natural or man made fibres)

Cellulose

Fibres

Protein

fibres

Mineral

fibres

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Examples:

Cellulose----- cotton rayon

Protein ----- silk wool,

Mineral------ asbestos

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Identification of fibre

By feel

By length

By lustre

By texture

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Characteristics of vegetable& animal fibers

Vegetable fibers are strong with a crisp feel

Good heat Non resilient and crease

easily Stronger when wet than dry Moth proof Affected by mildew in damp

conditions Can be bleached Not harmed by alkalis Affected by acids

Animal fibers are soft to feel Poor heat Stronger wet when dry Absorbent Attacked by moths Not affected by mildew

easily Damaged by sunlight&

alkalis Affected by chlorine bleach

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Vegetable fibers

Vegetable fibers are obtained from plant cells

Examples are-cotton, linen , jute, ramie , hemp , sisal, & coir

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Cotton fibers

This fibre is obtained from the seeds of cotton plant, which grows 1-2 meters tall .

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Advantages & limitations of cotton fibers

Advantages are------- -can be dyed easily Good conductor of heat Durable since fibre is strong Easily dry- cleaned. Good absorbency power Textured effects are easily

available. Highly versatile Processed into wide range of

fabrics

limitations are:-------- Cotton creases easily Tends to shrink when

washed Sheds lint Prone to mildew attacks Flammable Damaged by acids Takes longer time to dry When exposed to sunlight it

turns yellow .

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Linen fibers

This fiber is obtained from the stem of the flax plant .this is an annual plant growing maximum about 40 inches.

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Advantages & limitations of linen fibre

Advantages are----- More durable then cotton also. Withstands constant washing . Soiling is easily removed from

this. Easy to launder . Stronger when in wet condition. Not effected by sunlight. Good conductor of heat. Can withstand high ironing

temperatures .

Limitations are:---------- Creases & shrinks

easily Prone to mildew attacks It does not have good

affinity for dyes Takes long time to dry Linen is flammable It is expensive

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JUTE Obtained from stems of

jute plant Advantages---it is

inexpensive & can be blended with other fibres,it resists water, fire, mildew and rot.

It dyes easily. Dis advantages---are

weak & non-durable, difficult to bleach, difficult to launder

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Ramie, hemp, sisal, & kapok

Ramie is obtained from stems of plant, it is a woody fibre , it is also known as china grass & is used for making rope, twine, sacking & nets.

Hemp is also obtained from stems of plant & is used for manufacturing carpets & rags, its used to to make sacks & canvas

Sisal is obtained from the leaves of a plant, resembles cactus .it is used to make twine , rope, sacking& nets

Kapok is obtained from seeds of the cotton tree& are smooth & light, it is used for filling of cushions.

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Coir & Pina

It is obtained from coconut husk

It is used in making rope & mats

It is also used for stuffing upholstered furniture's

used for making bags too. Pina obtained from the

leaves of pineapple plants Used for mats& bags

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Animal fibers

These are derived from fur of various animals

Silk is derived from insect larvae

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wool

Obtained from fleece of sheep

Wool is graded under 4 classes: fine, medium, long & carpet wools

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Advantages & limitations of wool

Advantages-------- Comfortable for wear Dyes easily Does not soil easily Can be laundered easily Flameproof Shrink proof Moth resistant

Limitations-------- Takes long time to dry Weak fibers Stretches easily Good quality is

expensive damaged by moth May produce allergic

reaction to skin

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silk

The finest quality of raw silk is obtained from the cocoon of the bombyx mori, a type f silkworm

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Silk is of 2 types cultivated& wild silk

Important wild silks are --- Tussar from india & china , they have a tan

colour Muga silk from assam Others-- dupionsilk, rawsilk, spun silk

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Advantages & limitations of silk Advantages— Soft feel & lustre Elegant to look at Strongest natural fibre Bad conductor of heat White silk can be

bleached

Limitations---- Silk is weakened by

sunlight Becomes weaker when

wet Weakened at high

temperatures Sensitive to acid Very costly

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NATURAL MINERAL FIBRES

Asbestos is a natural mineral fibre

It is obtained from rocks It is acid proof , rust proof &

flame proof Can withstand extreme

temperatures It is used for making fire

fighting suits

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Man- made

1. Synthetic fibre

2. Re- generated fibers

3. Metallic fibers

4. Mineral fibers

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Synthetic fibers

1. Polyester .

2. Nylon ( polyamide)

3. Others are----- polyethylene,polyvinyl, polypropylene,polyacrylon,,acrylics& mod acrylics,

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Polyester fibres-------------------is composed by mixing alcohol with acid

Advantages Fibre is very strong Crease resistant Requires no ironing Resists soiling as the fibers

are very smooth Dries rapidly Can be washed easily Resistant to acids & alkalis Can be blended with other

fibers

Limitations attracts dust Has low absorbency Does not dye easily Attracts grease Has low melting points At high temperatures

produces poisonous fumes

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Polyester fibre ( used for making bed& table linen

net curtains, fillings for pillows & quilts).

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Nylon fibres

Advantages Strong & durable Crease resistant Moth & mildew resistant Easy to launder Dries quickly Fabrics needs no

ironing

Limitations Damaged by sunlight Melts in fire Hard to remove stains

from it Produces harmful

fumes

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Nylon fibres (used for making bed linen , soft furnishings )

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Other synthetic fibres are :

Acrylics trade names are dralon, courtelle, orlon, acrilan – blankets , carpets .

Mod acrylics trade names are teklan. Used for soft furnishings, upholstery , blankets.

Polypropylene such as spunstron used for making of carpets .

Polyethylene such as courlene used for upholstery

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Re-generated fibres

A) Re generated cellulosic fibres : These are made from a substance retrieved from natural sources , most commonly cellulose, which is converted into fibre form( Example is viscose rayon) . Used for making soft furnishings & carpets .the trade name of viscose rayon is viloft

Other forms of rayon are: acetate & tri – acetate B) Re generated protein fibres : These fibres have

been obtained from protein such as milk, corn, soyabeans.

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Regenerated fibres

Cellulosic fibres Protein fibre

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Viscose rayon- is obtained from wood pulp

Advantages Light weight & heavy Durable Absorbent Good affinity for dyes Can be bleached

Limitations It is weak Creases badly Does not dry easily Prone to mildew Requires low ironing

temperatures

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Man made mineral fibres

Glass fibres – produced by heating silica, sand, limestone & other minerals

These are non absorbent, easily laundered ,& highly fire proof

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Metallic fibres

A manufactured fiber composed of metal, plastic-coated metal, metal-coated plastic, or a core completely covered by metal.

Coated metallic filaments do not tarnish. When suitable adhesives and films are used, they are not affected by salt water, chlorinated water in swimming pools or climatic conditions.

Metallic filaments are used for decorative purposes in apparel, draperies, laces, military uniform decorations, ribbons, table linens, and upholstery.

In the more common process for production, aluminum foil is coated on one or both sides with adhesive to which the desired coloring matter has been added. A sheet of transparent plastic film is applied to each side of the adhesive-coated foil. The assembly is then slit into narrow widths.

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Metallic fibres

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Process of making fibre to fabrics

fibresTo make

yarns

spunweaved

knitted

felted

bonded

To makeUn finished

fabrics

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Conti ………

Several treatmentsGiven to makeTextile fabrics

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what are yarns?

Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibers, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, knitting, weaving and rope making. Yarn can be made from any number of synthetic or natural fibers. Very thin yarn is referred to as thread.

Types of Yarns : Staple (Short fibers) single Simple (Same appearance along length) Filament (Continuous Filaments) Plied (Two or more strands, twisted) Complex ( irregular in size & twist)

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Count of yarn

Tex system is most commonly used to count yarn

Tex is an internationally agreed system of yarn numbering.

The Tex system is based on the fixed length system. : (Weight per unit length)

The Tex count represents the weight in grams per 1 kilometer (1000 meters) of yarn.

(For example, a yarn numbered 10 Tex weighs 10 grams per kilometer)

The Tex number increases with the size of the yarn.

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What is weaving?

A weave can be defined as the system of interlacing warp & weft threads in order to produce a fabric.

in weaving there must be 2 types of threads.

Vertical threads are called warp, & horizontal threads are called weft.

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Types of weaves

1. Plain weave

2. Satin weave

3. Figured weave

4. Twill weave

5. Cellular weave

6. Pile weave

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Plain weave

The weft goes over & under alternate warp threads, as done in darning.

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Satin weave

In a satin weave there are fewer intersection of weft & warp threads.

The warp floats over the weft thread.

The fabric is smooth with an attractive sheen.

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Finished product of a satin weave

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Figured weave

This introduces a pattern into the fabrics.

For figured weaves two types of previously mentioned weaves are combined.

Fabrics woven in this weaves are huckaback,brocatelle, damask.

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Figured weave as damask

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Figured weave as huckaback fabric

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Twill weave

The weft crosses the warp at different intervals in different rows so that series of diagonal line is produced.

The threads are normally close to each other

Drill & gaberdine are fabrics in twill weave.

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Fabrics made from twill weave

gaberdine drill

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Cellular weave

These weave gives a loosely woven fabric which holds air in the cells between the threads .

Example cellular blanket

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Cellular blanket made from cellular

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Pile weave

In a pile weave there loops of yarn which stand from the body of the cloth.

Example is carpet

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Knitting

.

•A method of constructing fabric by interlocking a series of loops of one or

more yarns.•Only one thread is used in knitting.

•Knitting is one of several ways to turn thread or yarn into cloth

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Knitting machine

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What is felting?

In this method , fibres are directly converted into fabric without being spun into yarns .

Generally wool is used for felting. In this process a number of needles is

punched into fibres. They lack strength. Are comparatively cheaper.

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Needle Felting machine

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Bonded fibres

Bonded fibres are made from natural & manmade fibres.

The fibres are bonded either by using adhesive, by heating or by laminating.

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Finishes given to fabrics

Mechanical finishes

1. Beetling

2. Sanforizing

3. Embossing

4. Moiering

5. Calendering

6. Crinkling

7. Napping

8. Glazing

9. creping

Chemical finishes

1. Anti- crease treatment

2. Creping

3. Fire proofing

4. mercerizing

5. Shrink resistant

6. Mothproofing

7. Oil repellant

8. Water repellant

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Apart from the above mentioned finishes we have

Dyeing----- This processes

generally enhance the appearance of a fabric by adding colour & pattern

Printing--- 3 types Block printing Screen printing Roller printing

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Chemical finishes

8 chemical finishes are there

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mercerizing

A chemical finishing process used on cotton yarn and cloth through chemical action of sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) solution. The treatment increases the fabrics' strength, affinity for dyes and luster.

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Anti – crease treatment

Used for cotton fabrics usually this chemical finish method is produced by treating fabrics with a solution of synthetic resin, the fabric is then dried at a high temperature

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creping

Caustic soda is applied on the fabrics on some parts , parts to which the paste is applied do shrinks leaving the other parts unshrunken. Thus a crepe effect is produced on the fabric

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Fire proofing

This chemical finish is also known as the flame retardant finish.

in this method the fabric is dipped in a solution of borax & boric acid dissolved in water.

Even bed linen such as duvets , pillows, etc are made flame retardant

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Water repellant finish

The fabric is coated with hydrophobic substances making it water repellant

Hydrophobic substances are- silicones, gelatin, paraffin wax.

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Oil-repellant

Oil Repellent- A Treatment That Allows A Fabric To Resist Staining By Oily Substances. Oilcloth, A General Term For Any Oil

Coated Fabric. Fabrics are treated with

layers of linseed oil & metallic salts.

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Shrink resistant finish

Given to wool to control shrinkage

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Moth proofing

This is important to wool fabrics

Treated with chemicals such as fluorine compounds

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Mechanical finishes– machine is used to produce different effects on fabrics

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Beetling

Originally carried out by beating the fabric surface.

Modern era a machine is used to give a flattened impact, thus a desired lustrous effect is produced

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Brushing & shearing

Cuts out the short end of fibres which are sticking out of the fabric

The fabric is passed through two roller brushes

In this process the material gets cleaned

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calendering

Removes wrinkles, adds sheen & gives a smooth effect.

This finish is produced by passing the fabric between to highly polished rollers

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sanforizing

To overcome the defect of shrinkage fabrics are sanforized

Sanforized articles are passed through the surface of a steam heated rollers

The process ensures less then 1% shrinkages for fabrics after washing

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crinkling

Also known as creping By this process a wavy crepe effect is

produced on the fabric The material is passed between two hot

rollers

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glazing

This produces a high sheen on the fabrics in this process also the material is

passed through a machine consisting of three rollers

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napping

This produces a raised effect on fabrics & makes it soft & warm

In this method the fabric passed through a revolving cylinder

Cotton & wool fabrics are given this finish

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moireing

Produces watery line effect on fabrics Machine consists of three steam rollers&

rotates at high speed to get the desired effects on fabrics