national geographic 1967 - the cutters guide

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PAKL A.2AHL N6

FLORENCE RISES FROM THE FLOODJQSt j’H JLIDOf i

IN QUEST OF THE WORLD'S

POWEU, WATERWAY TO DESERT WONDERSWALTER RCAVERS EDWARDS 44

POES T WHITE C6AN CONGER Jti

ENGLAND'S SCILLI1S. THE FLOWERING ISLESAtAH VILLIEHS, BATES LfTTLEMALES ia«

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Worlds most experienced airlinei -ir i» -hf i*k- Flirt cr> foe AHliniit fir« i" L.j.*r Arn.Pf-ui f nii K:uJiii rii>- Ar.rld

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puJ 3 i n j t io n They traded the

ccoopc-d-nul sc j[ as full pay-

tnrfii fflt the c^ljVA tliiS

Any < Tt-c n lha* had |q he

Mt! were void io>r ai ru-

ber Now the bird^ are

thriving.- 4ftd the

ptopic h ave a brau-

t LTuI

park Ne^ \

Jtme you. hear a bird

rang, it cuutd he t h riiligh I he itltlt

lev,* of Dr Gatllard and his f riendf

! i - 1 1.1

1 1 4 re fully and vs mil yytl ihiv

Tli-t jDjjpTiiVi tflimii <nnChiirfV ii t

*

f .hr um 'i" Pt rhr

ilfiili-urrta O 'iirtuiffljira? £e-

t vty r the jiiKrlkrun Society,.

JlWhiry- i ? Tr L -j-1ii!* "i * ,

£f-J iv-

jjrfiiri Jp^n rr,4 JFjtrAr ’ur>l ^rifftli

PiiLirJ, fl.-ff t'/uili, T?ir .VViJi i"j

*

l“

LTnmt^ Com »a| io n_ MeMtfLtfif^rUy IVtMljfr Ceiti-

rrnrjli:ni A i iii,. ,M :i h i I'j1 C"-ti7

jlrn rfiFi1!. liiiiif Dr^jiiJiru-pjJ

li|

f4ll|ii‘^iliili!l^ii ri.’l./ JUJ.-iy

j^r ji rrc-Ffi ir rj r if I'Ninvfi«iik

rnsneral |= thp

q-Lip-iibllHy of

crV AmericanLfh nnr ot e?*;

inq-isaj;e. the wise

fesvr cd nature s gut

v

..,aiiLmji r vegpljbfi-

ul msneiaf |= thp

TffppfliisIWllty

evcrV

Eji

nan hpfp r pruh-ahly m<ire thanyou viispecE,

Sinclair hasE^ng been dedi-

cated io cuft^r^B Am^rita'* mlurn I rcr.oyJ"cc= ^nd wants to encour-

iLj.*e prlvAin s itLrens to hL-.r a uimeactive pari m presurvang out na-

tujriAl hrntage- Tnr ,4 bqqklri dc-

^rrihing what oahtrs have done and

nu C4H h*lpr write him. I.nr

utf-0 Fifth A vc „ NpwVnrk,K! V 1 QQZ&Ai’T-D mdodt’ yuurr I'quw tint iii i ci

i

maLiort aboutlouiing to anyseenir l.mdmark^

you wlfJl NJ

Discuufr America £iy c&r— iTs worth seeing nrtW smmg

. — ^ I

I,

News becomes history: the miracle of Florence

hc'* 1 Ht- soWvtALLV peaceful AmuRiver rampaged through Morenee

last fall, endangering many of nui4kind*si

j.'.reulesl treasures (if art and learning,

the GEOCftAi’iHt. sent a skilled team 10

treuryf and ev;duale the tragedy Staff

writer Joseph Judge t'lcH) searched out

eyewitnesses and heroes of the miracle

of recovery Assistant illustrations edi

lor 1 homas R. Smith (Ccrtler) selected

i lie cream nl JJflO photographs; staff

artist Robert W Nicholson irighli made

a graphic map-painting. Resultf ihe 43-

paac presentation tltat leads this issue,

E nabk friends to share such careful I',

planned articles of lash na histoned value

by nominating them lot membership

» 4

*

» * v j

national geographic society SMBERSHtP

?

6CALENDAR YEAH \9b7 MEMBERSHIP DUES INCLLICr

m THE NATIONAL OtOSRA?HJC.%Zl SHPLSCfiUPTTON

Armmi dun «rt ib* Unurd Starin aluL itomiallHut 0je

njreufct I: * i j 1

1

*5Y th-i- 1 mil (kjliw ire

l W-iji, $7j£Q *.-i;ucljuu lunJj I

IJ stre

redA-S tU (?,$ Ill-ldi IV -rrfll v-dtilt. Tli

cattlftf'-HT lldHtCrtlUlfc, dsUT EElllli. KK UIWIj » «inm if;

3 H tJj-TTRjpWi !»l' W latlwi iWdtdd H If.Ht- ftMuli m uûmulciii i -

l -i. dkhn tv Jjff lU-lEiuisfuL'.lh M3- i‘i o I Irrf.

lB-MDHTti MLUfctUW- ipplUarti l ®H TiTf.Ct J T cl 1 1'

NiArMlJtir OiQGVANdC in niizi -*166 the J^lf, Ijfff?. fa™™ w lh+ .HnM*r \\

1 Sff. luitt1

^ flHf JMHfJ* lra_uintf rT|t;fnwp *îl 7KEjw thr tta& JAIalit « »• I X

laniiiiUa ppa Jvli 1,

I'ft-v. ttooiLtf IScmW. i«A- Ut«i mamgmb£Hli£|!4 Will ncni'ûLik <i,iHfuJSf «-Ki k i^ctiLbMW 1*^®- Ka I a

mitnrh trj«r,her:hi^ riu.'uL li”e|

I 4"J m LflrlJJk nmJ 11* uauTHilE

hjcid&cif Et]iLiv^|[ixi f kti I ireurli I L S .euJiiii- .JM4I

Ll.S. urrîra Hr'n j^lT qd r^hiT i'tjL.njr:JL3. 1 1? L> STr\~- ti fft trrrt iff

is L'lFU H jJ-|ii

Ijfn iiunilniihiii '*ir ll.x m. rud id mid ItHE -'Pai, fiM V > ifnft'K

£fl itpivtlFnr [cn fnt ll, f 1

1

"1 l lPI !l ' f r'tW J- imilA 1 * ml )

lit inufr cuuirrirv, jfT I >- frendi or -rriid 1

Mri

up-

The SccrruTy,NiiiLciajJ Geogr*phk ShicHJIT

L> Lr nqmMII fdt tbcmtbcfihip the

who rumd Id-l- tUu: ictunE: ihiWt

foe u-ii.fi? MitFVPl tuvinifiiuoni [i

IOIFT MEMÊRI.HePJ I »jfninatc tnd end

| fnJ -luM. «f the p<T*tiri tu-rne-d

j ’ SeSr S-P^tS fl-ifT cird «t[nr;5r

-§. „ * 4 a A A a i. i r « « * * •* * 9" * »».• **»

|| ESI R E infoRmaIIQN L otueitunj: m.OT-

btcahlp iJr-i ?hf NatiuNal Cj fcOGTLAF'HH"

iJi if k’ftp

!

n

WfHiiMi

Pn|nl maiii I JkN |T4i]IV-T34J#L 'U-M* WB1. w|*H| iHT y *a , R»a, . Mill * i

rm i it irpp.iT

£ITt X FAIT, Ilf CZ'LILCTTT r KTATX. 31^

We can do morethan fill up

yourgas tank.

V- —

—

We know an en )pt , Gas l.arfk isn't your only

worry on a trip

There’s that empty stomach.

And finding a place to slay.

T hen cash.How much to take? How muchto spend for this, for that?

Together, these things can add up to more

of a problem than a vatabon

Sowoat Wlbt1 1 1 startedworking on aneasier

way for you to lake a trip.

And the firsl thing we did was make our

Credit Card more of a Vacation Credit Card.

Steep now, pay later.

Now it ran get you food and a place fo stay

at 1400 good motets ac ross thecountry

And Jet yog charge it all

This way you won't have to take along sp

much cash. Or worry about it running out

belore yocif plansda (And the less you cany,

the less you can lose, i

Wecan also make sure that the money ypt i

do bring with you won't have logo lor a newK-:IIh , Qt I -.1 Si- i'v-.i in 'i i- j- |. s, oil.

emergency repairs and parte at any Mob ft

Station.)

We'll even get you a whole car.

Now you can cliarge a Hertz or National

Rent-a Car with ourCard {So if Junior needs

the car while you’re gone, he can nave it.)

You con even charge a whole car.

OurCredit Card is only oneof the sways wecan make your trip a tittle smoother.

We have Travel Information Center - m nui

stations along the mapr highways,

And a Tree Tour Routing Service at ail of

our stations. (Jus! tell us where you 'ne gang.

And we'll send ypu a marked map showing

vou how to get there, i

We air* • I iave Travel Guidestnai rate 22.ru .10

m itels fleets arid restaurants m t".e U.S.

Thu can pick one up for $t 9h* at mostMobil stations.

Whrle youVe them'. why not till out ari ap-

plication for our .Credit Card?

It might make the difference betweentaking a trip anti havii iy a vacation,

'SbikEururiHi nuii p^g

JoyceThompson is a born loser.

She may lose her gloves— but her money.

HlvuUml- she carries Batik nt America Trivders

Cheques. 11" anything happens Ui 1hemT she gels

a prompt refund. Anywhere in the world, And

foe the full amount . She

Can'l Uut— I lie world's

largest hank guarantees it

That's why she always travels with. Bl

Bank ofAmeric aTravelers Cheques.Ma M1 «*h wfc kqili 1 in* +pc=Jhli r!i * h1 h h» HM«4 ii|t li|n P i l**^»>nnu

SOLO BY LEADING BA.NUB CVEKYW HER E .

This tiny, newZenith hearing aidis the sound of

Big Ben,the Indianapolis 500,Aida,Malibu Beach,Beethoven's 5th,the 5 o’clock rush,Opening night,“Flay ball”,clocks ticking,a puppy’s whimper,the coffee perking,soft summer rain.and...

“I love you ff

This is trio size of sound All the bnghi beautiful, exciting snd CWi (riots

rounds of the world you live sn

Sounds you rnay net £)e hearing as well 34 you once did. Or hearing al all:,

This is the size of an astonishing Zenith hearing a> rj„ One of our 16

different models, |i is so tiny, you wear ri in your ear.

Alioi

you ask your Zenith Dealer, 1-lttad In the Yellow Pages, about it,

you nmay well call It a small miracle

Zftnilh fiddle D3*p Depi 65aT W GTJincI Aw Chieiuqc III £H9fS

PLtJL&ti iu hiJ tn* fUut Cook.MC, An InPnrmpti^H CJoIeJb Ine HitfLl cr Hearing

plua Z-nril ’1 Hnurircp Ai£j liiiirnlui-e.

Mmnm

Qi£. -Stale zip

Tifin quilkty -jiiL'fl \n Bafbre WJt n-nmp "5masnr hi an in tr, ± is£

Protein Is the plus in lobster. Polyunsaturates are the plus in Mazola:

Ecrt Eobsfef and yofcqetm&frfcn jud good tale. You

tiw “pirn" of protein.

UieMoznln Com Q'A aftdMcJoroMflrgQrim and yougstmore tilan good tosfe Yov Aw "plus"' df pairunsaJu roles-.

Mnzofo 100% Com OiFooeifflor'e ihan melee <rit£y

fried foods and tongy salad dressings. Mesoid Margarine*

whoiG mo|o i ingredient is tiqu >d Maiald Com 0il„

does mg-re than make toost, vegetables or lofeslps latfe bettee

Manolfij used in pfcice oF ihe more sclu-mre-d FciH r is asimply delicicHn. way to help balance the Fob

in yaurdiei wrik po-Jpunsoiurota

Mazpla makes ::n..nl eating; good i«me !

mi

\EW

Bl [ I‘nR ri-IE Bi n >MTN4 . .,1 ht .m, -

. ! , .

nyum ;Ls hich rocif.rhr * ’hunch oft

>Linti breathed ihi- hush rsi if- Kiniune?

ilijis inumiivii- ihi'1 rmirm.ur of tlie

iTiidli' i inkling flf altnr br I-. the dance of

tandS^HgliT in tht douri-riiLrluined naive

^yfidenJy a cry of alarm exploded ni l he

k|iihjt[ r /wflnl—Tbe Amo l* our"

fhr (rigJiU'ned band of fTjrnrifnm-—

r

pritsLs and brothers—'fusbfcd to the lnm\

door*. It wns 7 a.m »m N'hvcitiIht v I rtitn

mid ihe ugony nf Horence had begun

\rmss an cttgMt piazza, an$ry hn-4fcrr>

of mam lashed the concrete wall iluM the

Amu's northern bank The rivet htnl .i I reads

broken Through farther lapslrr.nn. owl-ft mtfft

brr^DfH tide iitreaked with sedinjetii -mill nil

w i- rushing Toward (he fin.--:- down Borofr

Num^intJ i fold out map Tuinlinib page

QdckJy they bolted the heavy wooden

1

1

.k of 1 h l

'1 church with - inm bar and

began carrying pews and amic^tniut]> in the

tiruLid marble sfep before (hr high -iihitr.

While they workod, Hie Anv- -wdl^il merX *- ‘

'r"-‘

the embankment; the -.•.

i

>

-|funded -i.::un-r

tfir hllT' h flfK>t>. t lie old W«4w| Hniatiefl

against the grip nf the iron Then, with acrack

like a rifle iihoi, I hr I mi >[ta[>ijeil

•'It vntt as ihnxigb M Irnce and .int0f> gtortt

had smash rd hi' way in ' rather IViioiH m».

f.lu.irdirin ol tuM me #*• we

- i II"...., *Jui« - 4J m4L * fc-. M_ i 51. *1 n

«• , - ii mI.-jm L ILtiTTi -I t... i * *_

* i-MJLbJdtaju £iUi»iiv-4 IWCUie'

Hy JOSEPH JUDGELivitiii ri(v u\ ll'if Hrisa k-.nn.ee -uJniim 1 Sr^Mul tipuEraphi^ ScnUU V ill

rr™.ti domed ladit'drid m thb -uninter vk-w

(rum Full Bdvrdtfm* bridle llifl f&frlnrti

ITlhJcI nf E;L*r Noirraib«r 4. Tmlcu FTufeftc*

1 1 Hi. kiinir fsiTftrfjti ni IT5 trc-i-iirei

| i'ifa tK ni -Till* «Cii » . I I 1

(ill1

HiVI

NL

_fff!

K _B

p - .* spp Ah '

E-

‘

t" L 1

s . .« flf “jB-1 ^ rL j tJ1

_. j^—— __ _

• a - IS-rf[

J _v iji

,^7rB '[ i1 jjrj

l^1 '

“3 'll-7 J«_ r'

* « Pk, - r air*Ur.t81 ._. _,

J| . . k bTP._^ f

: d taM |K#->

? ^jyrf i'Tj -

.(jir IuTTm irEI

wn. n -

11.‘ rc* ] 1 11 mi cub I hi! ru i n a few wefcfc* LjEl* r

.

A square -shouldered map in hi? ll ft e(est he

"till won- the Wfjirintes of 1 3ie nrdeaJ

When the ilmu- burst; open, h ihunduriEig

iv4v> -wept down the Song tsave .jeii l 4m I-l- in

a lorrtni of fonitii tfgsilrtsl the altar. Oil -black

(Tests cluwrd at ISUi-ctinlurs pu^lrrpivccs-

—

Sandm BrrtticdH's fresco "Saint Aujpt&ittic/'

Domenir>;i E phirLwirbiiVs " Saint Jerome Mand

'Marlnnnn of Mm# '*

* )rit- nf the priests, Father Fklro, phm^cdinto tin: <nld water* and struggled toward the

doors* hopine to force fliem dosed He wmdri v e n bnclft, numbed and exhausted, ,-±- the

Arno dui ;lUu> knees and dragged him down

[JiH li iod|mn 1 : I thr flfKid i IN-

rbui-hiirfi pu n Filing thr w a\ iu 4nuE-i-ijm commemorating MJihelaagE-ki anil

lii S,id 1 1 i 'rtit r, ,t chimb hr Isnetf Wdl

”I Hi" &4.vcd me." he .-.aid wiih a §eJ&£on-

sciou~ smile He lirnJ up the end of .1 long

curtain nifie ihm lie had clutched and buns:

onto he! fore his nunpiininns fUbed him buckwith the help of a i&n&r

B> ci±t]\ afternoon , I he Arno hud pEufUfcd

deep irvti-i iht labyrinth of Florence A strum.1

:

tide from the city Swept into the church fromLhr nppEftiii dtreclinii, and witlt .l final irnny

dammed dun tin: very doors the Arno badlir-L broken thruugh-

3-' ir dny- afterword, l he prints ul tjjpti&-

-arm lookeri dow0 1 mtn 1 ?i t! i r wfn di *ws u poh1 hr dcva static?] 1 A rid

;d l K i re rvre Bella arou n d

ihem looked bku ,1 lake Imitiirn, dim) andn-vkingk seemingk buried forever

FTKENZE BELLA Beautiful Flore ore,

the trunher country of Western man. his

fair to say that much of whin we knowtoday of pai n1itig and Kulpture, of an biici-

lure and polttii\il -n icoce* nf scientific methodand tfi'nnrjcnii: theury , wr nwc to r

h-. artaht>

pol iticmtis, &tale5men Tbanker& h and mere h ants

01 the KcnijjAûiie—that explosion or" i n E el

le 1 1 UpiI ami artistic energy in Italy he twi.no.

1 arid 16<B. And Flnrvnhncs stood at the

turbulent 1 enter ; rlu1 h-etsais-^nce

13 err the Middle Apes dimiKeri in llir cou-

nt ir journey of pxiicd Duttt through Hell,

I\irgaiofry a and Paradise here t.hr wAndrrilnf

JViran h m-uut die first sweet notes nf modempoetry and inspired Boi-r;iiL-io to flcvelop the

ntofkrn prose narrarivc

In Florence, Gfiltteo pursued hLi stuflif -»

f

motion that would lead event uallv to Ni.uton

an si the law o f gravity First man rn gftgtf

through a telescope upon the moon? or JupiLet

;miL the lunar landscape, iinJlIen chnngpit

forever our cortcepl of the universe.

0j*re w'iw blngihn hiôwn tlniE-

lhr rraîi. progress freib autocrm > in rcipoh-

Ljcanbro to tyranny, left a legacy of jjoEjiii'nl

thought thmt stiJS m^trucU statesmen.

lint Fin renews greatest glorv wiis it? gTiluxy

of artist-—Cionibue itncl his ureal pupil Giottn,

Ma-a« Ao, IVcdlo, Fra HUppU Uppi. Bdl-

"i'-'clU. LnnaMb iia Vfetrf; (he sculptors DhE-h*ru, Ihijsmclkj, and mighty MichdanÎo;the architects BrENiehrschi, .\lherd, Mirbt-1 1 • Att 1 . in nam u 1 1 ut a few \ I an\ nf f h ei r w i>rk .-

reniain in place in a city essential ly itnchnug^dfor 400 vtiar?

r

These thoughts nf FbiÛtc W'rri i iiTnTnnn

in 1 he world »^n November w htMi ihi' 1'it^S

news of tragerly crackled across continents

\i rkiv-ii she Amn Rjvtt lia I risen frnrn its

LiaJik- Flic drapiru! ritj. ^n innunpurabb'

treasure house of ar^ had beapti rngutfed in a

roaritiK Itdi: of silt lmdeTi water and furl mil

Wrt? it |

!-

—

3 ti lc ? ilowK did it happen? Whathad been h>ar? WIijiI could be saved?

Tboss- quest] dins wt-h* tin mur minrU os 1

N\tk 1 tiffat. t tTAx ;ravhk team I LIuStmtlolls

editor IVim Smith, mist Bob Nlcholsan, andI hastily prepareil i->r a .slid mi --inn Wrwr-rti la Florence to record a disaster—little

knovviag (hits in the weeks and months to

come we would ,dso nriiorl 4 numdc

hemfitig to li lieafthrvbildpg task, mi as and ; iftailenl viHanterr \om in Ffi’lmnntiK

Rflhdt't, Thim\ lirâ nut the loddirn Wfr^kagp »f a npli^mtvurtj fli

ki ^liop m-iit Iht

ratheilral In otie day aiiij nighb charniriK writer Unit struck without Warnme hrouehiin ii- al. 1I1'- eru-l unit -k- -ivnli-. I crtfC rrf - r I ri- hi ! i-emLlt- ol an liir v.r Floren

tipc.i nuI ia rni'.ir.j.on a rair.ii U - 1 | rf irtrpy IVnEay L hi - :- hi 1 p—

1

1 1 r niher^ b>the Am 1

1

—hii? rctttvnd I* 1 * •.!•" - Ml LIP 'HI! IT blviL iMD ITlTMJ|J>M lini«2

V7JHW« fc f

*.JV i « r ,OiJjK * i ip J

r^J'j.l4l

-VL _ * 91t3 " J

f’jfc ,” i !. 1 jt i-

pIKJ

M B0^pi

* ^

r

ji

M jrl

V

hI rim of j imn-LLTpiL-cu: Stn jij) u prc&TnSl !(S S'* arl

Giovanni Oniabue+

5i

44CrucifixH

Iki* 4ama#r<l hcunnl repair, in

romrî in its jppcariiJrrr h*Um Tta lhn«i (rhjhii "The Cuilwr

îi flaWiitiAe paititiitsi* poru&ytci the apuny \>i Christ jiIhiliI

jlitO: t'«rf (he Church of S»nT,i Oocr, im- YVe-tmin -rt-r A bthpy ci

f

tTjih Eomh* 1 1 • 1 1 1 Michelangelo, tiiililn « ,im\ Misdllll

^1 Hi Holing oil (chafe* liuhhid Xhr dfîkteJ 1 sm.ilfiifl, mcsrr-

Jcirtamnir work' -iwfiit emergency irraimejii ill rbe church1

*

gruêpi lnvisifing' wLiter muf k t*. 1 1!^ £<Mi nil tlrplh iifl the tv idl-

ivjiti j. htm of iui//a—ihlck, bltii'k furnace dli Sttitibd

from I hr illy ' (iii'l ranks. The gprair s-minJite^ the rffcwSupper^ of T'ii/tdri. t-.i'Mi bottom pjuwl uf this s4L]i-etMiUii->

IfL’ii iw> ill i the fc ttall

4

Mu 1 111mm Is frrnn 30 aee dF îunt^ I heC-ilhpdrnl • Squill Maria dpi Fkirr, t enicr,

aod Lhc -n Lt£ir(Ls! Ihipthlcryr

I rf t

,

draw u{j-

rii - n ,: \ i-iLcr* before rhe BpccL Tlie> ^lanrl

nit tlw iU *>J i a i ij i .in town that bceittnt

I 't‘V jiiiul accomplished \'hs Florence'*-i in> ill i hu rr hi* *,

|

id BCUj.* in u -irijm

. andliEinine-i pmerve the fgcniitiF nl lln Rfftnli

tarsi' c— i]ie Eiih-licii au\ ftwakemni; nr' ihr

\Uh, L.'th, iihiJ iMh miiurir- that br-

qtauithi'd l*i \Ylatent tnaiL new i nrsi o [ ii >.|

art, letters, ^niTrund rttuurmic^

Mm ll se "'Miracle cif B^rtur" has nowOCrurred- The f ily has been cleansed. AhexttTtarriiniiry salvage operation » s hilled by

hundred ^ nr sEmJ-uijt volijntrm ni rnnn.i n m -

ilcinulitiet, hi*, rn humt-d most of I he books.

The | ijinct fKiinhruiH are rusting in ,i jjc*

i. i..d

Hho^pitnJ"; art expert* now 1 believe that mitny

ffafd to$t wSJ L'lrntually In? wived,

>"Mir nf course, will nul I hr ] i rir < It --

Cmeifuc ii1 .inviiiihi f imabue, priered for

U 1.

>yean will lsi.-s rr ;l u'-h

n

hr ri as i* wits

(preceding piusesjL Many pund puintirijzs im-

I

if i-rln

n

l to the history of art may be beyondtmlvaire. Perhaps the ^raitesi I [?:*>?. rjT uEJ is the

i .LsJ.iliLhty of fit) ninny thousands of rue mi

-

ri i-ilr- urn] buok-; ewn I hotiuh they havebeen rt5krut?d physically. thjfey w ill rrmum uul

of reach of scholars and historians until fih

I - I iviimi. it caialqgiifn^ --awd mhet vingHttMt1 h.u tnny he a matter of many years

Still „ Flowe igtlii wears it.-, old uih| cher-

ished look. By ihe titnr (Sic first -.ummer lour

i>e- arrived,, al mnsL ah the hotel*- and pcmteihad reu ik- turd; the museums and KAilerteii d\&-

pluyed most of their treasures; The damaged^hnii> wnnr bright new paint, arid tile crafts-

men wm- back U iht-Sr workbenches At rap-

ed 1

. of nature hud bi rn turned Into a tHumphof human i outage

SXI >W WHIRLED from a silver sky andIhe wind turned bticfc the narrow silver

leave- nf olive frees a> we drove fromHome inward Floremr in its w inter ot dtsa--

ler. Amiri 1 he turn n tin# hills of Tuscany, wepaused: at the ruin nf a nicdioxij diarch; bc*-

:«i[. us ,i i la: nr luntlsc^pe nf empty hidiLuirk

receded tike Wtottcs q( lawny ^ raier color

tuuitrd thtk zrny Amo Vjdka\

.

Stri I « I>e Si r i ki* . i he I ie t ts of ri vc?rs, ion:i n ^ rhemmil of T heir hunk- I nt> cver> winter brings

ii~s- lb « " L;->— I.i0 in the

|ios t 51

1

ycji r- Vai *E il w a -

h

II 1

1

nn thcM- iMHf-hTtLlc i|opt - that lust

F^r'y furt hud rkst n-

A tone farmer, his narrow back humlieiluûmsE tht edd, dimbed u path thruu^h the

olive grove .1 ih

I

greeted us in EndbJi‘ hThc rluod? Ye?, some will lelE you ihe

nmrn.iU knew." he suit]. -They *uy nu bird^

iTew iei slit- whde llu- dm be fore,, amiSmw could a bird ft_v Lhrougth. such a min?^

i>n November i &md J Isist year+ the Acnuwiitershtd received a Lliirri tjf ii ^ aomiiil .iver-

aicc rainfall in twn Nineteen Inches of

ruin fell in hours....

It was 7 p.m. on November .\ whirrs .Siirnui i

bin KaJFaelli fienrd Ihe mecharjicol shriek of adnfti from l.cvane Darn, rlrailHIrnu ihv Arno

.it-

î;̂

&$ milr- up siream from Florence fmaft pii^t"

16) Sht and her family, whu live an tuie of

four huusv- 1 IK1 riimn, did Hut believe

iJutt i h-t* warning wm real Two Uo-iir- later

Tht- iiren sounded .igam41 was apfuritad tn set- ihtr giitt^ iiawiy

fipeiiitip,1

later told a rjjfiqftjr.fi4aur| im-

mediatcly an enormous wall of water started

coming dawn ttutMm toward u* T screamedlo my sister and we ran for our live?

Why were 3 he pics o^ticd? How muchwater iium Lihw ^ k,400^)pfi-

mhi^-vard reservoir? A heated rnnlrovmvfi T'

spruita in I Ur in Ike wen. liter ike flood AfiovcmtOdtnl commissinn imj aired into the

charge ihiti la?vane opened its strained gates

her nuse the u|rut jLlyf - nl s -cuind d.ms if

Perma. fiirlhef upstream,, failed to open liseir

gaits until (mo latci and 1 1 i^u had reloasH

ro&rc water i.ban Levant could handle,

tbfs much is certain -tn au gh rain fell on

all northern I tub in l;wo day* In florid "mJ

villupi - and if(XJUniiJj?s ofhlghw jy hHlrown

more Hum a hundred people and '.vXlO'CAUltt

in P t a idt arun from ihv Pm \ alley snmhu -id.

In tins national catastrophe, whatever hap-

pened at 1 he beii^ragutmi tUmi- in TiiM’juiy

ma\ hit; t onsi r It! red contribut i i it’.and 1 1 p i E * num1

Mure Lo tile poinl. perhaps, i- the Flu mist a tip

1 1 rover l_i,M£^|ni(i MOW f.T£S€£4 £?• (ti St4V€ HQti

rttejCf" -The Armi never nsas op unless the

Sieve nil? Eh nip? Before midmuli!. u lute

E fn: Am - Va'lluy v/iin til I in l;, the Sieve River wjis pumpins: unknown lutjs oa luub-VEjim n v -.1wh^ through I .<

n arrow i.on rluencc east oi

The tclcpihont: raup slnuriK after midnight in ihi-

Immir of I r r Col Nircil.i Boi£i H chief of the Plunentine

He had tviln d earh in am id patio n of a

turn diiv on the fourth, a nalinrml hnlida.} cdfbulli^tin -r^L*i .Lrtniver^nf} of !3 k- Italian Lrml-ilU e in WnrjdWas I, The riiy s tiumu1 ilreets and • L> i-zen- of [mr/it-

wirrt i ret hud with dan:-.—the red Horen tine lily on ji

Held of white, and the Italian tficolor os ^rcen, white,

and rerl f naJvti. nJt drooping now in toTTpnfeJjil rain.

It iv. i- .1 iIcnLil 1^ call rrilycd fmtn the Vnlilarnu

district The Amo was riigihn md of it* banks Rondsweft" r-inPriciK: Families were mor-ooned on ruoflupi

i nlorieS lu£zi icoul-d nnr have knmvn sr, bin waterwas -ilft-ath I itn in ninjf 1 1 j I fir Idt tnta the linst-menis t>3

riversidr luimts east nf Florence, i oi- moved aw&vuti ^iJctiE f«rt In defi-Jiat streets the covers of old

M'U'en lienarj So bubble .irnL hUvii thin stmitms

(Cwtiinuied page 17}

Hi rums ^Muntrts. kideR with rubble mnr (hmiiidi

the and rats auidmehlbi -sIhmi Silo- turk-

Trapiml fiTueras wub Ei the srjublemn ti spt^l .Life from5* h*h"Miri pvetlofJtitiR lnlrr-^ ikii! ntur ilir r^Uir

rffftl AEiiieinjUnc a tinllrfiiy,, vnral ftowiLll%6> were’fcaleep when i hi- Amu Ri- rr >urjj;L

Li

I tii'e? it> kmk at

dawn Within hour*, it powpkr perished In ihrrityitsII toj ni i.i uJi .ii ltd their "•hi f

1 y* jiy |- F» {ft

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FHE GREAT FLOOD

FLORENCENOVEMBER 4

Wrrking jT drvvn, ttife Amo'S lor

rente engulf the ble^pln^ Rem- -

vince city. Map show? impnclanr

buildings iind Mtett of theft

MLLiJLl

Chapu

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sii-rtk( „ nVfrtl, #.OCO pr.'ilfi'tJS

ff/triian artifacts lucicd info hWjkr^NUN/i * TA popta

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- .aa—F”"PTIChUU iiaS-f M «:»L' * ,! «4;ifc*iJiLt * v^MiPr IQPflig JE * i I

T?*# v*j. ^J'AfAhJ-I* 4 4r

iWCJM .SN IVTO A KUGIM; TORRENT, fftr Amu rmgfifjT*

f Ac /FeJi>rrrf city fff fAr port D&nte* F^riiaUfjf dtimmrd

by the Pimit VetthiojQId Bridgef dmmniruamai frf

t

t qkiI other timnx* the. efiiprjj rircr duicex into' E

the i mumble heart tifFlorence, Wafer* polluted

U'ith nil, wieoge, oil, and cjirriort marv*jtt the

maytjT fn the tmeer-toviHil JVlf«"0 Verdhity, center,

and mtiri nmimti iAf tLathntrolt right ^ both

“ ' “'• *

' "i

S* „' ‘ •'

mndor condruction when Dante wrrredm rily

councilman fit /300. Before the flood (inn i} 7 thv

Ute-roofrd Tuscan city hunks under a warming run.

N

vivid rmniiu

E

lt nl i.- . ltsi r trauti3>. lln « in

rempwrary Urhogrfl^h morrt- mi t%4 -I floor] ^

jeweler ^kilvi4^tti iht print from bU wrrckisd

*liuji on llsc arcmEL'd L\jNtc VtCi-hl-O ;fcf5cn Novt fi^hur rfrlu^r KlurcnL'cr I *l

b:ii r ^i nr- uJ a

imMur Sl' 5 t|nl m olm.ijM eV*ir> nfiitun. Pi i inline

finder on a phujiH: In the Via del NeH Cnjuhtl

ii\t!s.:i ii i LE3i i iii'vi. s in . it Ufett in mi hf?- Hi«h

H^iairr smirk <if l,JW ~lnn\ - 2R imho htghet

Trupped in o l? e n . E- u -n 1* m ’

1

1

e iu> h i r%

of *n trim? watershed imom-i Knur rapaLh

mi Filial triEn i n 1

1

nl]. tWr* dprti -i;nl irlhuiario

rnjnitp into Mir \nin, optiMar? aS )w(i vcr-

ins*d dams opened nmnl^.nl an November S,

Thr Ftcit (Jiiy Lhr rivet CiplJidted anm !1

1 ?rc oL't.

Hwn IuohhI Aimm3* m rill northern

im rnort thou I iXi people md isiifrulfina tsu dl-

I niUm (nuiLlEic4- with Vratit* I’feJt, .3JtJ Kbftfltt

uM

ti

*rtf*

ft if- ili.

V* '

SXM&COLh3Lltil.r SM

S3 , **

, w^nCL * -'ii i

'.

"m

haniciirrw* after midnight, c-ll-f oi i hf- ;»!% rleaili

<rtW? of its early prize* ] could learn tin]\ the

-ivim imm* ui ihu* uetI—

M

arine With her fsicli^r run!

m.utSit:r sht was -wept along Li the tJirfefll- I i nr i wl ij|r

they clung to a table, until her father, fi^/-dwnd t lost

hi ? gnp lie el m3 hEr wife somehow survived hut three

ditys wnriltl pass before Marina'* s snail body emergedfrom the ruined fields ^hu was ihe first n| *5

ttMiUvo in have perished In the F^n'mc rt'srinp

Shortly* before .1 ii-in. A] Ik!mi MaJFeb who worked iii

the JolU Ciub tie.ir the fnirviu^ Ponte Vccchio, ^tcrnpen

flKlltiife to lonk the nvrr IL- i U'tif i--| lir^p:«l i!l I rnthrcoukl

be heard even above the banpid^ rhythm ut,JThe Vtfllou

Submarine "Ffe noticed light* winkim* in the jeweler^

shops that lined : I: *. bridge, Paris \ enttjfi, GusUvo Melli.

and cither store ti\vn&rs had bi*n worried I »s a vnurrieil

n igti I \\m

. il hman - 1 1

1

1 iv u re >av i n iz wh nt the 1.

*. 11 1 1 f cl When

\he\ trained die it tkishhijr.- dow ii upon the -kt-am, tnrj

mild hth luiimis lip fij'fu&tft risifiK fcipitn .inrfeni Jirches

and rise brown heu k of the river hurilmg wllki frighlcmlm;

speed under their feet.

UfNWAKNJ 11 l \ \WARE. and rapcrEinp n tmli

day, Florence ^Jept \\ hilethfi m-prTUOUtiTedi, rains

^ lashed in sheets itgains! Brunelfesuchi's muiiniht ent

ribbed dome war ihecatbvijr.d an arehilectdm) mast4sr

work of the Renaiî'iiice. Il (KKlitriiNd the I i tn i

I h r copv nf

Mkhdanggio's "David" then stands bejort the lowered

PftlaxEO Vbcrhiop hr&nan in and stilt (he seat mFlorence^ city j.m rninnn': ipajtf -i

Thu 1 rn,an -il rt1 Lirn d i ^ out marble plaque-* that m urdi-d

wim thr c[t\ had brgtitEeo—the hidi-watur marks uJ

past cahmiJLiL1 ^ die disastriî.-i Bond ul Nuvemhrr 4

(below), which Hrtisbd intu ".be my with su<Ji tun

that it filled id l Harericr"; the IfifTibli flood of ScpTesn ber

tli fSS?| and ihal ofNovember ,i. 1 841, imrfccd indny h\

memorial tablet* ai height- up in 7 feet Xmv, cm Novem-ber 4

t tbi- ivmrry \mo fuse ^ never Mote( I hr milky lipht ul dawn seeped iritu ,l bbi< I. ni^fil.

ttse river trgan to pour uni becked intci thet

’i'iifcr distficb

ni (kivirmnii Eind Hun Fred nines on rht south bank Exl-liidinu through the Vh btduws of crllarhome?-, WTcnchinsr

aivay doors plundering I he -mrdl mairrial -Ltvteub rii

lift times, the waler-F here took the aged'— n ft vltli old

rTutn, a hustniful and wife of 7+ and 5-, a man of SI whuvieldcd without u sttniijEHe.

\l ja m, electnc clocks stopped nN nvei the »’ity

At that momfifii, die mo^s i t-rl> of the seven bridges,

Siin Nlccolo, %vii> tj-fiiag swallovvetj and the full iurv o|

die flood iva.% upon Flotemr-

Tbe breakneck title cfaeWvdM a\ the embajikmeht^ >k(

the -iirei-itH t idled Lunpima— Along iht \rtao—thui par

.il I el rbe river It swept up aLitomobiic^ aisd hurled (hem

.igaima lamp pirî- imi >trevE dgn- ((.Kigcs lure uul

oiiiTi?[i walls, and lu'uan iu li.dlNr tlu- PurdL Vn'i hii*

with Ire us, oil drums, and uLher debris ft also beân h*

flush from hundred- i^f drawmniz bdavmcn^ Mu ihiik

black ritifta— i nel oil— of n:enLral healing sy.-LLem^

17

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Vi 1Hi 'TtV/J ii

1 Ikl- Jt was no ordinary iilluv. Lai flow that

bewail E'.i swamp classical Florunct! H but it

thick stune of liquid rmid inMmii: black m i rs

os ail, care asses of aniimvU. and the filing

crmumi > of -oiniju situ] sewers. ib» very m.tin.T

i U liaMv1

’. hlftriH

Where small piazzas ujjen jJuulz ihe north

orn hank, the river poured in as 40 miles ;m

hour At the Pi CavaUepên.ii ftmptud

;i wide brown waterl'nll spiNin^ ions of mud.istri debris difectK mio the bn&ejnciii alack**

oi uni'*"! Kurii|K - riVheM libraries, the Bltdib-

:ei .l Central e JfuldouL pope tl)

Equivalent Li i -mr LIbran > >r t nrmnw-., \br

Nhrno link is 11 aJ y'< la rnt si lih ru ry conta irian

y

r

inoTc than Lhree imlhnn volume 1 He mile*!

nf shelving in the path «if the nwr held several

ImpomnUt'lkc tkms—ihv piori uuMldeihaa*

bequeathed by Miy^Lubeehi in I7L4 and the

P. 1 1 ; si i n 11 collccLion donate 1 in T 7 7 1 The

slacks aJ.Mi held hujidrcri* 1 it tin 1 j - llls

i

1 > of

is

bound newspapers and journals—.one of the

prime -miriir^ fur modem Italian history In

all. more them a million said a halt volumes

disappeared under ihc tide Cpaê IB l

A few JTiinLiU,L walk downstream. Ur

Mima Lu[*ll KjÎunI Uonrllh the fitirai tm-, holftf who directs I In I n -1 itulc am I Museumof the History uf Beatrice, was sleeping in iL*

grpund - floor iparUro.1ntiL

M;. 1 1 1.1 - 1 1 lei q 1 1 was in lirji/il 'she told iur

"so 1 worked \nhi and stayed in the .ipnrtmuni

Ju n: [ heard 4 midiio^ sound, md wlurn s

upeneri my e>'tL5 water already 1 ad reached

m\ liL'il \V hrh I opened lids windowshe h aid her hand level with she ailh ’’the

rivrr was here"

Appalled .shu begoji to* arry upstair- ivhdt

dir could ml' ihe nUfvutnV irreplaceable 'o|-

Section:—ur i iziMid jn.4rijmeiifSl used by fouml-

lts of modern diemlstn , jnedkine* and|ih\-H> Bill 1 lie waters minmled until ihe>

swirled waist deep an thr ground floor; s-ic k -.il teuti

she had ia LLlujulnn Mite of Edison's firsl plinm^ruiil i

BramhiLla p

* surirksi I insi runic ills of ivory, ssoEd* and

ebony; tb^trn Ltfipaldu rh LorojnaV luborutiu^' betuch

of chemicals-,

Carrying what she rnuld, d» mock precarious

lri

1

1

- .Llnrm a third story ledge between thi: museumand Lhv L’ltizi. Thu* ?hr nt.ma^pd to save some $$

4nud I cr t reiisu re% Lneluf i 1 ii£ scyi:ml nr I iah let '

1

1 tel r

I and hvr own Hfr ipngv _HL

I- IE- ft ill '

I W 1 1 idi VI Pncpi ..I -.11 1.

1

("nice, had no idea ljI irnpru'luu' disaster until

he ifcpfrtMl from his church into tbe tain. A tor-

rcn-l wat pouring into the piazza before him and rising

atound rhe bast1 of Du riles 'Uilut:j

i-ijê 2 f)K cars were

,j I ready nw.^h in a ietld mis? of nuid and ml,

I ml- vUhi church behind him had been funding

vijiee the late iMh century- Its tomb* held the bones

uf such faiTiMJft men as Michtliingeio Murhuivelh,

( riLhleu, 1 be composer Rtisriid, and a bust oi other-

Here in t.li-c c lmn;h md it- museum can be found

1 hr tffflfbffjpg? at Renaissance art Ui'.iliby Fluren*

ffnff hirerE artist* to clarify the bugr w alls and tivel

ihe ' l.i i l|if I ' with illustrations tif the life of Christ and

lb ui. ot st Francis \monv tin: OrPt was Cmiahut.1

.

whose1!

< ru< i fix /' painted ubuui lî, held a special

;

1 1 Lite one i hi iht: masterpieces mark in pc ihetransitJ'm

from Byzantine 1o RenaUîttce nrl Hb pupil ' *ioUn,

i hr hr-i master of Rr jialssano. reaJbm, adorned Santa

Croce chapels with frescoes that s&mtift as models for

the yuuntE Mu Man wee] n and other giants )^t: unborn-

U onibiirded b> nprofited tire ^ hiirili ri l

at .10 tu JO uiilea a a hour, ibe 6WO-^\nr-

nlii i:-m

c

l Vrii'ebii" withstood thr .i -ssuh

hmtjS! sl> hhuiurd upSiUrnin fuL'r

I.jijjs and wns hast of a bridge tipnvrr

-h.iu L it U the jewelry shops that iw?i oVc

r

rhi1 ari tip In the j$lh ertttutjv tlmndI s.ikr t ‘

h

i;= i m ii | irrdi-rt-H I KaI jeWelfits -mi:

LiLfl LihTtsat ! i replace but. Ihtm hen occupy -

i n el ihc d u( s cr i>f bui i ding» H \z Ii rtl^ccl h i-

Pltll PnbLt to I hr UffiiJ with the cQirered

iidJIers th^t mm atop the %hops The

ftsaned hfiiEtir 1 up n« rvet> rtuwi

fincc- an oarilcr Ifillftukfrd to thr

TH,mr«urini^ Arno in UJJ

RallvEis^ Mil- downhi-airled M.syw

I’hTu UarroJhnL roiumnlci rt womisin laktecp

i*m. 11 U l ifis lit-> for ±n eWjtc rn v w a5 c i

niiioxL The heroic rifMv:ir-oM jn . hiaii‘-

nan rrfAEnrfi hi> rtimed city mrindi,

b 1

1

LTLIl liJJTlfrjTl jjjxI hr Ip ahiT'. lit

i rkutil— ihi-rs i ikllAji^riE 1n»m exhii usliOFi

m ta

j *1 "tjywi j

1

I

11

II 1 4

|Ij El

1 *In 1

t- iU

dLi 1

Ili'Upt'rl like M-nsiig lumblt'il .mil -ilnibili !- - Ui|. 1

nurnHl >«™ 1 6.01*1 Vtfbk tc-. h 5 j ari?«t thst Lilt-

m UmflT biii=!h

! I i-ind hflttercul hialL- Pint* J J-aJy'^

• :af raatrff pit twnri* (jeiirmm alfuw-

jO alii t-:i '.id wmiwd FiaL- in triple for new in- n h-5J

*

Ore Wiiud in fumnit futl, LVtiV- n Burn Sal P-

wti i i 1 m.iT hk p' P i riii t M'li \\ I hr 'i aiv^ i 1 in reek

i

iil:

s-l-kidgc lh&\ iryiherl Into ilv rrypl -ii SaniwCrw*.iit4

1

MirhtlanLtl'i'? -.uhlbrattd David" triiiltfc

7-th 11I sjfff h ni>oiia' the- vilf thi* LJimI tefi ji plnze rtf

E • ^ ' *l>lt ril HIH IT »P J

1m

3

^L’

c&a.; £ 1

"

—— 1

1

Jki« Oil I in: limit df llii: l rdllcry ill

Mil' Ariulnmy ttf Flnr Art* [fold—

on i.pa ar i 1 1 \n un fi n i$h rti work

by Un; -artur JtiiliiKt ^ u] gits ;»r kruj

jjamUT ih«]W; at far n^liL

It not vlI ' nj when the Arno raped through [he

lunfr. nf tin: ctarrh cmcL hipped agunurt, list altar* hehirr

ihe tombs of Alii hdaiigrlu imr| (lalllciT, The two cloi*-

1 nr hcsidt the- r_:h tire h filled w : l Si 15 : tfet 1

1

L mmld> w .it er.

In I lie adjacent museum, L'Jtnxdjyf'i "CracrfLx" wasbuttered—and! Sinnlly eniiulfed —bv iht hLu'k tide I beoily *urLm ruse oyer TaUdro (tadtfT- ""Last Supper”tpsljpc 4 1 Smashing through into other mom*. -nl ihe

museum, liii: fioodmVnpIpuwl paintings by Rrtuiiiuo*

Sal viati, and Vasari. Then It hatvd like .i w Mil mu untain

lorreni [Imiugh medieval streets toward tfufc

1 ffm,

T O TIIK MILLION PIU.RLMS who Him. k to

Florence c^ch yearAtie Ufftei h flagm piling queenof Rena] s? l> till art u jJJrrie*. I Isl- ui-ivoivi 1 building

was built fiy Uiorpiu Vasari between 1 560 and 1 5 74 fur

the Medici tJraud I hike of Tun: arty to bouse eorvem-

men i offices r hence, tijfizi}. Today one Pi i hr ivory's

tines l and larfuJal rohtiJinEi^ uF art fil]> a -pierm In!

7 ell inn nf marble hallway,- and m^iri-

I'tir 40i yeans the Slate Archives h as In i>j

L

hot i

little uncomf ortaiily m rt« cm dr. actus. in tower floor! ur

She pa I Jen Jls collections include invaluable paper- of

the Mtrtliti Lutulv ,-inri ihr Klnrentim? jqvenmnts,republican and rlutal during mmir dl irMnkffidS must

exdtitig and formative centime.!

The l ft)A :» rliir terminus ui one uf l he di^tuicliw

I i.indm lit k s ot F' lot e nce I ti n t y pit id pe*lure 11 f gramie u r

.

Li rand Duke ( ibium I eompnbsiiuusd ariLt and archi-

tect Va^&ri—his /aws af iht Artists proved him aka nn

nu-.i.u litogNipI.er—hi build an cnfcha&ed gidlery runningfrom the sprawling Pilii Palate, un a height south u-i the

AmuipaM the Church of Safttn Kclir.it a. over the jrwfl

er^“ shot* i m the Ponte Veccfiio, ulutig the Amu. anil

into ihe I ffizl b> means of i regal atone stanraie Onthe olhbr -nil- of the meat offuie building. a dune arch-

way high ovrf Via della Ninna cpumjcleri with the

Puft£ib Vmrdiio Thus the Duke could ^imll frntrt hnmeto work without potting wot doldout. pog^s 1 l-inOn November 4, that pan --i Vasari's galSen nearest

the Uffm whs lined with a cuM^cti'm of$dCportndts by>ome of the »rl 1

1

’s moat noLtitl art i sis—Ruph acl, Titutrn

Rubrnh. and Corcit amon^ themNatural] v . 1

1

h i si t gUi oft h u n ^ fa rst

'

Di Lu t.-a I ftSt I l?b -

ruen, Director uf the UffizL U^lI me J

Tf thu Tome

Uvjrye iblm die wart" cried *i «i mjw-iw Kiortraint^

t 11 fvc> i-d tie viLitjUoji l: k c’ 1! h .a I '41 |i; sn i m4 '

IjOffllipfJ \'tn i tnuihui .i -m-ol iif artisirL'- near Pellstjeh

Beecadu In in cxecpiii'iuil <Ib-pJav nf v\ • *i . n

c

l- r heHimkS -Tirrctl .j tupluSTvi? krp\v ^ 4nnd fhcjnlrahi hnc hlnarod apsws wp.irch^gsci. dimi.L_r

! I k>ob.ind tbaiertaL id :.KNl wnrk=Jiti»|Y- ihai iarri onRcnAjmntc LTjifbJimr*hip isi Imrihi . wntid.

=tmw -Anti prrrsous nii'iiiSfS

An -si i Sic | Uf > Jv llJ tf f uf thr Fla^jji Mrritfina ^pfciuti

W'bat In CJill iiiJv.igfi ti) dry in I J it -!3Ei In nb\ j, * si f.,tX.k i

MCiail fBiiTk hktEit^ whp jru^crnd all hut u huuditt]

life riuiv Uni'k In |iijn,inev*

s y— —

- ^3ik *

r* *^J•ti

STL , * gp

4

,J'' • -V

H »i -

-a ,

A* T' lA"

lrtr^

VecchJG went and vve wens ,iN ^jit r 3 lli r ii

u'mdd it Would ie*ir ihu îtHeiy mu! with it

VlL-rU-d In tin ualtiTy'- w-iErtimcn around7 .j.m., Dr Becherucci ctiSle-rL Phdtov i’go

! 'rucai. i j' T hv d i-t i 1

1

j.ue - ri«1 ^ Uj icrin E e rodent

it \~mi' \ ri for Flopc-ric:e uml nt-igtiboririi: re-

gion* fcft ttrm Warred Ihr tfmherm Bdclipi;

îr^ctiir cii kt-'ii oration - The fmirt h memberii the - i*?t appeared :n the nu uii- figure id

[Jr. Mjulzmio FoGsi* an official of the Su pirri j i

tandtney of McmiETncnis, who hod tried u>

uni oqnafi to the Pitti Palace. found (he Pontt^ l'i i Inin ’-lih kid off

ran ft rinched .ihrarf n| rhr

water* to tin- l rtlki,

Uoct its BecIMti wd Fteil mm It- .l * l.tr-

ing foraj in Vasari > gailkry, ttnivinu; a liultr

alrt'r £i ,1 m While ft swollen river cunnop sided

Lhe iV«Ntc Vecrhin With oil dm mu. and Em- b

and s oiled wjldh around thr art lire behiw

them ipugcs IS-l^h ihe scholars and a few,

»'!>l I'i'H Cl "Ikd ruo frC#C LKU1H tin i-ii Hi|gfi4 --h ii l

Sudden treasury of liMriLin^. \ hr Xarinnat Library

re>iirmri> from a hugcfrwtft l*>mb ttl' mud Lhturijirvd*

of vcslijfrifrs liiinnc from ci far buck u Reniiiutimvc

time'. SaWdu-t î|p uj* Elic water .ms l covers

(hr Elfsnr Mi’ tha niniJI liiljhy The Arm i tpjlled bdOhkrsin mil.Lv. nf shrlvn*. A- I hc waters fubsided. slmk-mvoUrntwr* d> Jrniwi rus inu^k - became *»J" Hie Attmh t\l

fteWJIstP i1 - ill dhlrtlegfMlitjf Li

airl Jilt hip \\nv;~ ami haulci

!

I he vnEilincp [O ihr fi r-E flnnr Snieffred with mml. .3

dt\ iteniiy ;iirir- n b«sk lu u mtc i that Wilt Lain il lu

a restqf. ii ion itmcr More rhmi a mcEJinti niid a Imlf

volume- in thij. library werr iLirniL^rE, Ehi- ( ivta I for

the uty esended two milium

24

ciistocJiirini iMiia^cd ta earn tiu 1 uUvat

twenty of the paintings,

^1 mude tlitm stop” Dr Birhcntfri said

I fearttti fur their lives I did not think tvt*

would go back. 1’

Meanwhile, Dr. BaldinL btnviinfi waters

streaming into Lhi1 I ffe life way to the

reMoranon rooms. There LUO pintid^K—h>

Simony M.na- ci-o. t- til FjHppti Lippfc ami

other ma.*ittrv- were imperiled With the Mp

oi |Jc hossi and suyiml i ijiLi"kans I ?r

Bit I din i began moving like painting som-

I ]UKl-, upstairs. Larking a kr>. Ml 1 bad to break

down 1

1

htiivi door reach the hist of iht.m

lei the -ame building, but iirarut to the

riven tJii.- 40 mt?nt rooms of the Sliiie

Archives whose four miirs of shelving held

1IIJWXI ml kilties—Wcfc lillrng with black mm I

When Superintti tide tit rrcniaud; aniveij,

titer a tortuous trip t hmugli streaming - re* • t -.

1 Ji4F\li

1

In1 wen t to save 1 hv rest at E he [-portrait

r "I lection in the aaJhry

Hr- wtt$ Kune1 before we km-w ic.” [ ir. Fossi

foiled * BuMiiii md I chaser l him, hut he

hud tv inn* on his tet^L, V\r

e cmildn’E caith himllJilil ^ hod readied itu- stone rijfcp* Wu tried

stfi|'i him, but he bmfcr out of our itrip,

furious at lls a rail shout nip that he ivai of ageand we had ybung i htlrJren., Finally we jiJJ

Wen! with him down tli^ sturs'

1 hr l hire men bceaii to Uikv the paintingJM1L carrying Ihc small ear hiwm and skidding

tte larger ones across the polished rile floor'1 he Inpg gliHjmy hall was trembling andgPOrttiiriB it- the furious water* pounded thertrthe^ hchttulh it

'Tn.-k .u'l'i," halted Dr IhrirTini, "rja t mrecall Yiisari^ complaint 4fXhj»vsaeii whenhe built this Kullery?

14

"Vn happily I dn,” replied Dr. ttatotiuod, "Hereitrcitcd that the Grand Duke's impatiencefarced him m use inferior matenub

"

Bald ini und Kos-i worked ibeir way farther

and farther down the imUlty OcfuskiEkbllb

they would part iht pale curtains tin the ^modl

wi nrlows and Ipok du? The> watched the

Arno sciPtip a hiindluJ of automobiles out oi a

small pftuza iu nrs& the river anil hurl I hem,bdftre they could rink, mrrinM I he battered

Ponte Vecch it i. “I’he fame d )r. Wcl rv ^hu ps sh

u

t

lernt like match tii^es. Kacb time the rivrrr

smashed ;l heavy nil drum or automobile ur

itvtr ii^jjiii ei sf tlu1 liridgc4 it harrowing Iwomw ui ft| th under tJown tlu shglunj^ > utruk.

Dr. Mdlnl found ônto jimdl i utteulaliuci.

hr told mr. m 4 dtrtiifn of quiet invective

against MJth- r enlurv piiinler? who insist I

upon fulli-r-Lrnglh portrait ihun tht Kenak-

msuu'c headUto-waist style. milking I heir works

i ivk l oi itifF'n nil to muvrDr. Bticherticd and a few custodian*

wnii&d ll*: ihm end of the corridor imri [rsins-

fcrted l for portraits in i hf- -/lti ty of the steps

Shurth .Liter |n j_ro die last of the pAintin^

tiinu- m\$ whitt he thought aUiMii

1.it l1e .'-.ivine so many priceless ’Works of tvrl.

Dr. Baldini to Id me with « raraiitnl smile:iJMy tuimniobaJe

'

[oitiiite cari" attend* the book rpstur.it ion

I Ll: SefLJ. \i Fort flrivtijer* > RfhuKs mrefaftrcis . Irion teer* fYrrm Uuini cOLLOlrie-

pain^tfikisidy -f1

1 ;i rzfcf.tr hkeJoti* fn«m ms-

urrtc ibhtn of diet? leather bindings.

l.ltPTttry Ijiimdry I l_lj] lv in I hr hi-aLmL:

plant -ii th* f iilmad terminal. 1 1 err, pages

tiR washed and preyed lui ipdesceiswatcr!

ihr-n hunfi up to dry I• »j" rciyr E-u îx hmirs_

Music from pa«t T rrudetd crom

]"liireriei‘ fdb a kul [way -ii the ^ sth'd-n Re—loration liiAiitLi.Lt- Li i Rome. Uom Marta

I'inru'ii, ihf Barer lor. rx.LJTimtr- Mlh- and

rhîr lîukr-imm th-t cathedral

CuDStorit i.luintifLL' uF ahsorbcpil pfe^vr

placed helWOCn poi't1

: drir-- the puriftmcni*

27

National Geographic, July, r)h

Indeed, che Imoî-iI Vj'uh wa- . humansu'httles fcn a terrible brew 4 - ii r.-r^-il

ihrouizh iht heart of Hon-nnv along Via df( '.Û’ISujlI md Via dr Lrrmi—-tv hen- real

lions were u lnr krpt as symbol? uf the city—

und around [fee Bflrpellu.

T HK 11AfU ;KM .r H± lo KutptUfC wh-At

rhu fcffeei lb to iifunlin?. Since ISfiS Lhe

JOft-yirar-Ald buitdmj: 'fuLdoit?, page ' Uhas housed one of earih'b finest collections of

sculpture—mehiding netted w orb* by Micteb

angelo and Donatello,.

MktelaDgelp^ statues disappeared under

r feet of nily water, terra cor.tas by Xicrntb

Tri hoi n and Vitlcfiti £0 1 *ant i |n|>| -h I ;md fell

;

.1 i.n.n^ by Pierian i la VVn t whirled avtey

and v, as broken The water- ml led on luward

the Piarifl dftl Diiumiu. W]tA^§^ thut liain

w itJi awe a square sloshing with :l few* inches

of water fine mimue ami % -lupniikiLk ivurl

pi ml T he 1

1

b" Sl I

Here tLstnd thi three stnicttirB that mewl

dtftii Identify Ifltencc: the ck ujiouai Raptte-

if r> . thf great cathedral dedicrued to St. MarytjT lhe flower, ami l MoiToVpncefLil Iwll tower

(pages i, h 7, iir.d fnliiouh page ID BruJteb

Ir-chr'- soaring flume, mm- the lament in ill

>lie riiLcud her lilf in - lvc ti.dlk'Li [He-i L^'

,M;ina Lvfea kjphinl kt- n <-l 11 ,

! iirt,j U i r it shr 1

1

l-:i i i i is l-

and Museum olfthe Hi-iurt «ii" Science, briiwiL rapidly

miiunlirsfci «vkf| fa me Hi! ilir l rcirnEi.li hrre

with on Arabian eLesltrtl aria ii h- « -1 lhe 11th ivaiUcr-

Linfl ii CkJiliLcft iBluscnjfc Li?tL' framed In ivc»ry.

Slimy (jujîhife clrriiUn-ck ;a l

Utfttte H i lilt -ji> iiHlb- -iptIWf aif I hr

i I mn 1 1 of Simla Croce Impounded by

Florence Riês From i.he Flood 29

1 Ur t-ttiifimn i~ row nr- ihe cal bedrid ihflt ..lII

l-kirem alls huofrui, Irom l ist" Latin domtj.i,

hniLw "I'ti Mir ikvtffclt 1 1 ^lixu l

.

tb± word has ;t

preial Wmanin^ "Hete of Gail"

Oti three ot' its ti|zh1 swtes I hr Baptistery

wears f'j tm f>u ^ 1 1

1

r hm without question Eh

t

rrurst lumou* jind beautiful door? anywhere

afifi those iM the ua^t side Whenl.iiMin/.o Ghiberti finished ihum in l-l-S; ofti r

2 7 yriir? of labor, Florence *taod sn awe.Ylii'lirliuiituki- in later yean? Ûksrled llnH

thev wv re worthv to In- im 1J Junr* of I'aradl-t

W*,

1

§!

—rind s-n ikv have been 1 -i.il ltd ever since

The Hi brunet panel'-. depicting sCEnt* from

the Old Tesi ament, seem painted in molten

rnrluL mi\uTltel i.^ tlifwr rlut-iil .tin L pet i+ptctlve*

Ah die three torrents spilled. into the ptexA,

the thunder ami vil.i-mtioh i null I lie ili'-m! .utdi

felt blocks -iwîy ^ntueUnif jttfr IQ llul the

hlack-cr^l^J tide crawled up she boors of

Paradise and began poundinn against

\ h t.

1 ’tone Jan 1 1 I i : v I. i-.iutifu

1|

lanel* loosened*

first i ii jr

,

i cn *11 another Final h five plung'd

inti i 1

1

1 l‘ iivirlEug nnu k. Iml a prater Live iialc

kept tltm frpjrt being swept away Ipliscs 3f*-

T Ir'nide, Dnna?tltor

5 woodm Mi^tSulrne

sf ond hip-deep in water

Mrraku^ Lihlî Mil- ralkirdi .iL 1 hr \rn« nKie

buili I i r.u: - . lvuicfs here ranc lo a depth of Jr i in' dccpetl mtindul hm hi the city Mkbcl-

ilipchi. white working in Gtmrrr iri frfntL ;u ncpht-W jEioUL hiayitte a hmiht- mf-slr

Simla i'

met? and ramioTtcd that evtrf} year llipn? the t eElan. fluod.'

UtM HIMHfc | + <liUICVi PTlHUHI. gV >L Tt -U1 IIJ I 110 PI. t *-liM *-‘il ! hi i Ml -1 . H, m I

m

TfT' 1

11

1

1 Hi

5

y ‘.f.J:

To jive ieei in ihe navfr. niadt a sb entered raft ill 2\v,'

movable pcw$, fell ujjfm (iinvanni BalrLurri'sJlLast

Siipjier,15

and yrrerkiri rhc pitvetiwuli of both wurisrit*

Hum the Dunum nlosi loud* Li îkr tine* \ in dci Setdtrj ihe qttfijt piaziu bordered on the north by Saatissirrsii

\ ndttms sal i l,i he Flcffidtinos* own favori tc c h u r h, Heft

,

a fejfrnd ^ys. in angel painted the fare nf a Madonnawhite the utist Bari ol« m m'j dept Hen? brides still nmit-

i" leave ihdr w^MLng bouquets And here, .ilsu -l-nvri

Via 4 k-i êrvi* iiu? \nm came.

]| swept mtu the square ui MJ: \ 5 a.m. and turned II;-

cataract irtin the cellars of the AtxbdtJuKital Musrimn,

housing a collection of F.truscaD aridaris second mil} tn

That of l he Villa tiiuliji in H-nme Under intense pursuit?,

the Asms exiiludrd filthy tpyserv Into the Etruscan tot-

lection Ivodns .met limn/i^ r&iiurd Srnrii the hh&liefetf

c-ises \'ase? wpenH incited into [lie -arcuijLjiiiu

instil ik'd, Treu surer. captured from Sime and I he earth

resumed to a primeval riLtne.

T HftOl GH [ H ‘T WEALTHY PLORENCE 1 3it

Arm? w lis ^muddm: imtsun? Jufltrr ircrt^tfrfr In the

llnrrii: Mnûm near Siiotit Crocs, a di»linjtusjtlied

collection of paintini^;. sculpture lurnkurt aod books

front the ?4rh lo ihe I sih reaUirio was dttxwêd to 14

ft el of water Across the river, musical irkstrumf nLs oi ihe

Bardini Mu-rtumV famed srslltt lion fem the 16th Eu ihe

]$tti centuries wcel- ibriEUt^raimu into mud-coaled

fra lament- ipuge 41} Tn the Slroiraf Palace ifuli.kmi, page

1 1), 1$Q$QQ book# of I'lorthftrY tmowntd pub hr library,

t lie 1 1 abi e if: Ito V seusa i li x, we re i ngu I fed

_

Around 1 1a? a rn it terrific expliuthm I'mm he mica I

iviirthuu:-.! 1 - rocked the PJajubi Btccaria (pages zj-j ai -l

Fotdonl, page J JT, and a column uf -mi ike billowed fain

M\ the f ii 1 1 . All over she « ei> the horm of cars— -hurt

In a nicu with ri>Lr:m water, ichtirlar* atitl i o,h I c

«

lJi li n u fsrk jY^yrUhL in

wscur im rr ikwi i painringa nn ihr nmirnd floor of (hr rftjri H flne of 11 it-

M-nrWi fim-if ftteri^W pilterl'e* In ihk rt-trcatloh I>^ Oi;uV,MaYMK >LifT

i ll ! V\'ii

M

liioinJ. I' i-. •• *

!' :» F'm.u ri tifuprn Hi-.-. !rflt .! Kirn

\n for Ltue Flnn'nct rri'ion— an ] H±h-rt nji_iry jmrlrsiJl az the ]>m*F Vl(

!i>rio A lorn in Hr (TnflH'ctO Huh Jim, Dirtttor of Re^ktratiqin

ft lance canvas In f.Senwd van HonihorM. a I fth^jatuiy Dutch polluter

To pun quirk entry in this. locked s-toraui? room, jatvor* broke tin- windowbehind Lit I'itoi :il ci t I hen ic'Tr Jiwui ttir Jrfvlriim LliU I the metal unlit: in

ren i: ne i r »,1 i m u> t njKerrttM I fo r [ ht m cji Y sulci y 4 Dr. Lulu Bedienccd.. Ihe

S fftn , L’Hncrlor, it-ilc’hf^ frnir% 4 ttainriu'.

'J l wjah day of iyrr4iti'A4:rtJPTiwn't#ii i.'i "shilnr^tJon,

Hiri

Bathl?v. BEfn herucdL

"Wc worked inio the niuht, nnct when it w.i ouvr we =ai down ejthuu.niijd,

:md the real meaning; of Ihr Inss 3.Wept tuvrr 115.1

Respond m|Et to ihe illdi, >[iKlehU tcmovi\iLirnCjn.pi nzn tin ( In.i I ;

1 1

r> M

j

|- un r-ivab mud inim iln- doorway An irmv i»f «i 3 1

-

ih^plt frcijn n iF». ij «.tl Mill hi*.’ 1- !:' Europe omi ihr Vmrrkas pitched Iru illup\Hnft nutaboctk* fur bools and 'Inn el* Many ludntlinu from ihr I nurdStall".—Wert Lit Fjonfnft \*t UmJy Months- alter ih« fiijotl, 1 1 on

around khe wo Hit Mill wurkeil witln u \mv In rhf* mud from cellofs uf ihr

papain n\t nutty—thy liirFr people—who nirk njutwrf ihc henrJ«iriur!« '1r|ur

tufirtk’ i j 1 r their wurk I « il h iinil Itrek^' ittinj ikeri-

Jl

} (utpituF | lu Art fill! Lhi: Linn main. ,i svinlrr

“bd i cr fur knmn inres al i be Pitti I'uinee

•stidouri- Th loteUaLI paint blbirring mM chap-

ping Ha tbe woedcti piuirb begun Ili dry iiiri

contract. VpjjrkfiHTin rushed tn convert rhe

l.jnsujj JiLi1.mMAlljrur iiiMa I. i tin i, ,irn I htmiMifief

Ar| w-rnl, I\t ivn ibduw . ri_:hll nh/«nd wills

jupnncse mull jerry fia^xrr lei pn'VHii rhe point

from flaking, Technician* j p>ra> ftygjttitt* an-ujlibiutir, iu wirest the fismwtb uf mold

ci nr u i Led I iv w ns er— 1 0 ;in:d ll fnou rn fu] musu

1 11

1

’£ Il^c >icady di n jmri T hn me sfci * n g tif pow-erful current forniert n dreadful sound

HWorse i Ei lib the war! Worse I ban die wai-,h

Adfiisd fHs u|j|i-. - Limbering into irfi|Kir vriirn -

tmd unto Kjoftopg, lound hu cumpmjHm for

the tragedy itml wns overwliv'mirig Firenze

BdE=i_ Im 1 1 if i hi} - lo co nit then woukl U !;m»it terrible Jimjiv i ll the r-rnnis a fftoflic rio/o-

rwifl cahilnEmijijg the divider of Hu rentmeilmrches. SantAmhlt^tn

P ll feet of wnicr;

\pjgui>li and Fatigue mink tile I ire nf I 'r

Urrhmirn a* ifce Hirify? | iui-nt leiiih ailing ihr

i und :' »..! •i* i-afErn rd die 3 i7iz|. > >nam.il i

trti

mute' of Umr nerded iis festcre mhii-c art work*have dropped (h 1 1 1 1 ,

' i year-* c ih iw*p or three;

J2 other tftpnfurci ttifly prove IjeyoprJ Pe!|relr

iT iM U

JA P "

Stm JacopoAope’Amb h > ihiiTpiifte drotviicd,

Santu Morin MtuHInlcnn del Pazd. Heavy oil

Li 1

1

Id s f«rl; ^nn Miccotg 50 pr1

Arno, In |ecij

O^niâiili . *

Nil ON* C \S RECALL with any pi*^

ctainn w 1

1

h'

]

i the format day ended, for

m^hi eajnc early* fuvirm auto the dark-

ness ci I Jiflemoim. The waters remained* ji

mtlcMi lake over all e I as? ten i Florence In the

I tlkil A huiklLitk i h llj li Itftd aU^t foiTipMrd I hr

luî u\ ihr three rrûic tabors, -iiving ibr

(Miiktk nu,.v Irom n ^loritge -iWi i

j

(gain ting,

to 'll In Mint.ii Marin \uvdLi. the «ru;it

I itiniiuinin tbnrrh, the flood's worst nat .ntuju-

imuki'ii t*

i

-i Hh>

,

> irf-srnc^ in ihe refectory,

t ho$c in the Strozzl Oua|ht], and LhrpDWfcrful

fntscoe* of the Spiritsh Chapel * \ mgr .i s i

The mo umine nf ivil$irws, tty of diHtiriii.

itnd Wfdtlngnf cajl£ adiiu-d to tilt night’s terroi

Isolated* Without light nr Kent Ipli'i ihnm'-.

4 stricken diy waited for dawn Ji J

A JET.

I rk “ ^ -Tjjfc -

- _|

"!fc

| =* (,, pfc- -- {Jg

f1 ^

£"

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1 i Iht, ! j |.i 'j * i \‘T . i \ —i a

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' .*:» s> *4 J5C3jR3^11

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i

M National Geographic July* 1%7

IrniLirifes .igo, Bernardo £ i.'rmini n aold

h rTkiLti „ had coined al i » a|dimst,'

nikil a rilin' fit—Nothing Is beyond

the ppwere ‘if (he Fkrctitinei " On itse morn-ing of Nomember A. rihh,;^ i h t

-people wan

dtirw I Unhdievifip fttim i heir done - and looked

ufwn the ruin, ii appeared th a I rh Ls time

Ceiininl might hr proven

A fUdtlvritîij artisan. it gunsmith whospecialized in sptiqutB, groped thrv^Ligh the

WreckAge -i] his reilm wnfk&hop.rl Nothing toft," be **W i,^1 carried off—

im

[

I

s

n Ub Li:-.smi - uf | int 1 - r fillet ted iur VO

yeilrs patterns, everything''

11 is story was being re pc utcdm every street

Six thcijtewid shop- where mere h ants

played Florence** famed specialde> in gold

and IralhiT, wmji and w-iod, were wrecked.

Eveiywbett tfe lamfjiti “All my father^

Lifetime,. and now mine, bob, washed away."

MAVnk PLKRO HAKGkLUNL P,rc

historum turned puttin' servant, had* peril lhe lung night nl November 4

rnurnoned in hi* tiffin offering whftl hsjfipU

Mity he could to an assortment of castaway?

that. included a newly married couple and an

escaped convict As morning came, he went

out into 1 hr streets— and for days afterward

lie became- the *\ s i l>

i>

>i a city resolved i

heal itself (page w\ He wojiftered, .t-; did

others, Vi hvre t he hand* would be found to

clia out the bur Led boots, dean I be churt lies,

m u r j isle r to t h e pau n [ in gs„ excavate i Fse rct-k i J ig

cellar^ restore Fhc sliojw

Hx sunu- miracle or communication tliose

htanrirf^ iippeansel I hi the clay iiftrr the UnotJ,

I he fttlt troop of whM became an army of slu-

detib jepp&ttrcd on the streets, of Florence.

Patrick Maathiesen, a '.^-year^td gradual e

student at the Ihriversri of Lracittn* sym-

1 1 1

1

luted i hi- -1

1

1 ri i of ftie>c vol > i nteci 1 - H earing

of the food on his radio* he dropped evety-

thitijt, obtained li Land Rover from his

broth t r-in- law' * farm, ferried the Channel,

and raced off to Italy, rowing a pump* Thepump weld to work ini he l

Tfbz:i.rand Patrick 'j

truck became tbe ambuhrnce in whkh Dona-tella

1

^ crippled “Majpdaltnr" wa^Cftrri&tl fromtlit HupUitpiy to the Liffijt Gallery

GhibertiA Door^ of l\LradLse Were hauled oft

in a curt Un Uler n^tumuon.I 'hone calls from I'mfûr Strrpki Ca-

inurMii, Direclor of the Slant An taves., juid

PmEeisor Minn Crcgo-n ol tht1 1. 'mvcrstl y ««]

f lorenc^ turned out si b#l ELfclion of ymmic menand women frnm Anacricau umvr-rsiij^s whowen1 than ntud>ing In Florence i"he> ypined

ajuntlftfcsuther.s m .i human « bsitilhai m. nopedlu, 1X10 volu unrs frym the mu rk < i f tlir Arr I l j

At the XaiionuJ Library hundreds of £Lu-

iteULi, many wearing ^ mask* against lFic

*tench of iewaee vinti decaying leadier, hi-

borpd for three wrfti to rrrnver trmre than

a million dirt^ wet vulLinirs tpage.s 24-5 f

( tad an ( 'hurchillinfi coverall and rubber

bocite. I ii reel nr Emanuclc Casanmisima of

ih*t XatiEirm! Libr^rv pruv^rJ Niriscif a su-

in' rF field genemi in the o|n-ml i * in In re&tm-

Florence^ flhmrie*' He did nut home for at

least a month. He proptisifiril i ri. i nc the sragtry

stack? in the sLiiu-owocd tîbaccn hmnb of

Fuseany He also pressed brick kiluî andtmitllc plants iritn emerffcncy service.

Trucks i m loan fnsfn she [rjtiart and I S

Armi^Jrtftik'J byiht voltinteers + curried their

unu Lt.il hirgi>i'- in industrikd sites In Pram,PcruffiiL and as Jur j \\ i\y sis Wome tpugc 21).

While then heerful blue-yearifd aa>d liîrd

unny nf -tu dents- Was lacing nuibhutd ik*cA>

the network n| worl-r] .Mrhnhtrsfiip crucklecl

wiih 3 [stress 4gpalh Iin Myrun ( i i im i re

.

I hen din'i i nr ui I Fn llan.rLLrd study center 41

the fiuiiou^ Herruird Bcren^citi viElaAT Tatti.11

became u focus ni United Staler -ud

F m the United States itselfP leading historians

of art iind Kl'lillI:- -iiiu i' 4.chi iliir *- -iui'Iul- f tut i

s -

Loim1 iind Fred LidiU both of Bruivn L ini

verîty, Frederick Hortt of tin 1 Onivcrfifly of

t^nnsvboniHi .md others quacktv formed the

1 mnmiltee (o Rescue ti Lilian \n i l iua). Bymid November this effort had raided enoughto send ihi fir3E [ilaneload' nt' ^-cienEJib \utd

iint'-aeb. l nn*ervntomfheath d by Luwrince

Mau-wski of New Vork limvet&ityr lu Fluf-

ence. (Among thejn was dxjcurtUrnts (X]>crt

I bircjlil TribuEet of K R DpnneUe^1 & Sons

rmrsfumy, printers of the Geographic J

To Dr lpmdfi Emilia Pet iirvlEd bf the Aidie-

nlogtrui Mur-eum, ibr diÂstL-r bad .a painfully

Shim lo o I fjileimi rjmiH j of S-e. John thr Bupttst in I he NaiinmiE Muaeum ol i In

BarpcUn A |j'.MqlCLi >. ip! benrene ,inri lewder drawv ttkojûti* £tnd oil front t.ht p^mu-i E(fih! Water m.-e 1 ft

iel high in the IAul'pII-i-1

: i shiiiidoEi r

*

h - jti o: MJi hdangclo ^:ulp

u r ^‘ ’I 'hi-. Ion rrcrivrd Hi i- talrjjm imaimi-nL inllawed liy ra .criihtniig wall « fm-rgtpn

dial rrmiwed all but Lhr most îililwm all ^tJiiniL %, ...

' Doom of Piuudiic. MWwrl1 1 r!/.L' ii oil led tbe^-c “jlik'Tl bmn/i’

|i*'TtiaJ‘ if i ihr Baptist* 1 ry ['m

[ani'ls. created by Luwn/u lihb

hern mi Hit1

1 -it

I

b t !. csi bi r>„ iLliis-

tmif .hi 1 1 - from iluic Hr!

Testament Welter ru.ujn c at v-

rsuJfc-jin liuur w n'ndw) the door*

UjfeB hiii J III- I led then’, lui L jmJ

farth Fivr Jiirntt!-- Icin’ Iijijm' XTte

pifritrftivT kept fhe-jn from

bn MU rtfltfil siw^y WWktllcii

(right) enri [limtl - i jET fill :i‘fiair

lirttfcpn-flff head fit r h i

-plowman.

jo n «nr dejiktniH the *iuiy ml

(' ,i i n p4.Ni! At*el !’fur t i g|j i) w ,i-

fntinrl iitLtr m tfcc myd.

familiar nsprrt. Whih' other* wure movingout the debris us. fast as ppsaibl.y workmenhen- worr blockme up doors with biickl rtm 1

mortar -n that nothing nughi be [rniuvud.

“li is dll here," he ssjd, "and when the mudIw-i dried, *1 will be like dm other bcohuil-

«rlj kc™ b lli. In rrt} own71i I

1 damu Bed frcseoes- Di I *rw.ftfcia

£ stuff

listed HO egogle frescues nrtfl 12 frrstrn ej'i lbs

in need of deantJig— priori l erf n $1mil lit fie

fTiAnil [or WôiistimliL|E umrk Art experts

hjirf already worked nut ,l talmriDuj. mean- ni

triinslcrrm \i nld I rr or •- to icdft) rn-w

One a* a* the Gaddi "Lurt Supper' 1

1 mill I

inks months to transfer lim the iirnwliutc

jm il ilcm—beyond cleaning with jol vent*—re-

mmned the hniUcagriJiibi humidiij ipu^t J9i

CltlA's Dr TirdtttkJt Hurtt. an horn imp.

citizen of FJfrrtttce because of hisialn.n Lo-rts*

ili* \.t: w-^rks Mt art during World W;n [L hud

uarnL’il j-ain*t opiimbjn Hi'- gentle fat:**

'ometimo- icur-titiunrii, braidie fjamLliiir tr>

miliums of television vlewcfe in Krigl.mii.cnd

i lie I: mteil m jo?> when fine first doc uric rjtuo

of the flood was released btfort Christimts.nVVV carinol know The full effect > of thr-

iltKiri for some Lftne.fl

be said "'I' he waterrisingup thiuu^b the walls by capillary ncLinn,

triuId i: vcfttu&ity flake oil the1

1

ai n E

"

l had a, start tins vision of a group of horri-

fied tourbLn -run ding in the Spantdi Chnpdwatching the Ercm (WscirtW srutter down in

Vtviiy littli ‘nowstormy Timc l rntm^y, .ind

watchful waiting will be needetl for naans

months before the frescoes ran be judged safe.

In thi’ Itumi'llfi. Michdmsêlo^ Staines

seemed Ect be mol b me. They wore fluffy ^kins

oi tiilctim | wiwder to draw put the n*< mature

and sonic nf the oil 3S| Then powerful

Û-tenirtUb were put to wesrk on ihr yltiiiis

,-Vth lr tom one nr two stubborn stocks, liie

BLLrpL'l In’s rolled ion fuiw look.' Jim isnu'h L Itr

Worse lor thtf Arm/- vial

tirti, Lit the yUtun- tif Science

the re hr- Hull Si^tioraBonelli hod been birred

1 1

1

l- behind in the p-inc WftttrTS inrhid

inc Edison’s phi allograph -eve rviu Lilly mure

recovered and restored to ihnr chao

The KTCLitegt riilturkl blK£> werrthti imnel

11 ; i i n e a l^_ - ,iaid tJir htuiks, and liti-i l- iiMm Lht!

1 k-ri'ulean efforts cil l hi- student volunteer*

wid the Engeruiab *A i-^q>ert5 combined (o vivl-

ninth hi wtuU had been feared lost

ONE i’t lB.|> \U iRNIN’s k when *i wmdi

I ûn bud LulllIJv broken through the

I widkid ltcrtag£ the Tunce

VtcchLo—an orderly hive of Turkmen Imiil--

jii£ mill mi'itrhitB H3id buildiniE—up the Van

i itiicdMriini |>a=t ihe nunc I'ifti Palace, and

mm the Ha hoi a Liattkrp 1 iva> Jnt:«km^ for one

uf Llic mml ifffUHlfll bfl£jnt|il* in the world

.ind found it In u ^recnlinuê

[j r. Baldmu one tif ili£ hi roes at the 1 find,

welcomed me in n scene of pence?* Ffee poilis

til ihe Hwuhiinri about wire broken h>

mistv rays of streaming vunlighi, In l he ijfek

lance rsiîrl its- nvmfihfi am I Rumufl gin*nib

^Carnal against the d;;trk shrubbery

“We -ire luefcu that the Medkb liked lem

di^" Hr BafilLni sjifA1 These gardens hnve

had iiiuT the omu of the finest oilti

tions *«l lemnn tr^r?- in the world Idurine tile

winter tbr tree* w hmjiiUv moved into the

Lifê budding Hit Lirsiunmn, a-hhii i* nowpi

our ims|idJiE. Cottie iliil See am pal tenh"

I hi^pitnJ" wns nn ;ipt term tor the Utmitant Here, in it room nH>t¥ Than *4i i feel

iril dMeeE wide* stood row on mw of double-

decker steel bed-, (pages J7*3|, Lyimj on them 3?

M jh^rinrit miIIh - (In irl- <1 tin

uLEiln'til in’ THjl* Chun h MliUunl Anil Trium-

phiuil.n a Nth-reotury rresc o allribulei'l It*

Andrea lb Brail imitft in I hr SpantUi chapel

oRlae Church of Simla Mnn^ Xuvrlb. Even

:itlfr l hr -v;iE,-LT rulitifiiirri In nsp in t h

n

UlL k h\ i .ipHlary su linn Fn chcs:k Lhe

Tituih l u t-c _,hol li i r fmil i bk'wt r- w&s * h -iam* Ird

iilong ihp ban.- sic i he w all The i r&*r t> cf prr

-

M!llh thr fhE Lht DofetilnlrMII 1 5-fdef ,M

lhe rluJ <il tilt! Middle \i*t- Emperor. Pu|«L

dvrie& unrl drvuii! f.-ii 1i.fr before tbit m*UitffJral lit I hjrpis- i \bmT them the .i

1 m

I

.tin ! rirni 1 1 r> in ter l lie ^*te- of tacn , and

ne Feitr glide* I he Ship of she (bun-h

ihnuiph sfciSTtny •clis

Gl-meIv, Uftui fektosfcr Alno dill

j^cfcrik aivnbs the face of St. John Ibe Bapd^f

so i, h MiiHium £? rhe l hup h >1 Cfu- .

Scholars attribute (he fmcu ^Si J"lm anil

Si- ^nanuL-T to l.lnmenico Venetians* ^ Mth-

c i-nhLrv |isnTM'ifT an tWW [i.iinELiiii frl hllliJILF'-

KeslnrcF^, ta'ins; for I hr first time bir| i 13-

jtited by fuel nil, eirpemftehtrrl with ror-boit

tcLraeJiliirkic, tje&Mfie, nwlhytanfc cblundt-.

and other suiV«*UJ to remove I hr. stains

wrre more th.m -M paint.-*, ;m^cK Virgins

Mid Bill! i rat kmin % c-ach panel wore n entail

while tug like n patient* chart, which re-

corded ihc humidity of the wood und meot shrinkage

\\Y ivimrli'M-tl through the ward, pausing at

thi -trii'kun I'iirubuc. .uu| hovering umt ,i

M udurtitti of uflc pi fsiuttn'- Jotluwer>.

"These panels were generally made of

poplar,"3

Dr. Baklim said ^The artist would

prepare ii ptinel hy coating it with a tine

plied lt imxrrL wish glue, called izesso. Tht1

Ij.iLiit -and-ecr^o l-tytr .inil 1 he wood harking

Jutvi.' dllh rejLl rjLte> of expansion tnd eon-

traction11 We paused before A huge ESib-

century altar panel

"You see what happen- At t retUtin point

Use wet wpofl keetKs etpatiilitis?. Init the color

ir&nnol. bu it britins to break Thai is thr rca-

sosi for tlie imilburTv lissile" He Ciirefullv lift-- *

cd • 1. 1 ) rtu.' r ''111 nh. al tva E ransparen t m ale rial

,

ftci'M tenth’ miscalled rsce [\i ] ut

All over Fltinwr I hati noticed paintintr.-

eciiHin.l with ihh abMirbrnf paper tl UlC

standard etnerEeni> b^b^t for dainaszvii

WLirks id art.

"If llie color Iili> n: i| nr llakt^t, it will

still be there under the paper Bui then wehave Use Mint problem in reverse \b I he

d rites it shrink- faster than the gesso

,md ( Dior Sometimes Else gc-sO has crumbled

and flakes off. lakitm the paint with it. If i*

essential ibat we have slow., inn trolled dry-

ing of the panels, and thaiis what this build

\nti "gave- u- With lurk, wt will be a ‘lit to

salvage rno^t of them.”

T H E LEMONAIA was prep tired—;h

new concrete ilnor, ar» inside roof ot

jjh^stic. a hu-cnidtty- control s>'5lem-ir 12 day.1' When the fit

1

,si rsf eJu- "patsenL-

Wcrr nms'rU in. on Pteeidber 6 , the> Inokcfl

in dreadful condkiim IjecatiM1 ot mold, bus

tliLtl wirnHiUH 1 pnd>lrm has be™ conquered

I iy fprayipEt w’irli ni'statin i[mp1 .ml w anti

biihtir sometimci- used In cure diaper rash

\ \mii:ij KiiiiU-linmn, John Si hubrUl, 4

student ut the Slade SthtHsI of Fine Art in

Ent;bimL was onn of tliose who came to Flor-

ence to help ouL He WUs i-^fulK hiiLibmu1

the fflungiciik un Ik- nnde^ide^ of the panelsHYotl kni'jsA

, it h.L' always been the height

of nn amhltidn lu wurk wilb Uic-i*

pieces, and htec I am. Bm J never thought U

would 1 1 La under these cdt^diUony I.imk at ilM

this mold— green, black „ whiitL Eiink.1 '

JnhnV hunitireda of student ci?1l«agu^ were

Sn>7> th ratii^bnui ilvt* -• it y un<- ft - efivi runs, bid

Tort n red Figure n f MfctrV MutiLLlriir. SrVfld b) RtEtai>A;ini:t nn j.-U- r [b > •

i i

,

j I l*

I

h < .i1

,. ,n

rcum-s - fctfllirl Umri \U\rt CflTTOCtt i of the TUm TtlC madftroji! irSing intd III.

tt&ttiMety wketi ili« ivkhkIpa tffllue (if the hips, bn* dirl mu flinij ii from us pedestulKcsjoiieis were iU?ni iLbfcJ to i'md Ihice* of lhe nrl jinjil \mint ftVetflid Jjy lilt flood*

IVi u if the niii inr tft in -—-jar Farr Hdvrih'n

ofm .it the healing phtnl or ihc nnlrnnfi staiirm—\wrr drret-icd toward list1 major saivujir

effort in Rnremc ixsctiing the book-

tn the fncjil tu pi nusl part of old Furl Belvtt*

den-, fm n high hilt south of The city, I founds^3r :LEit1 Ml> Roger Pi j well, Bri^h hookbtildes. ûpervjhijsg an iritmiiiiimiiil i re\\ of

student in die rfcsme of the XaiiiitiuJ Li-

brary- most vaEiujbk Vi,| ume-. kjuiei hfilnri

hut hi l he PdwcIL m (heir way seemed tnorp

perntflflent than the fort

When ib<- hnii-n Museum called.,” MriWi-ll * lm\ portlier peter Waters* in-

geUier wltVp. IWuthy CuiUJHfty arid AntbumCain* uf the iriLiiiciLin > t LifT, uum1 io pjorenceot once in set up ihi> ttsm/"

Mr.. Wafers, a younger 1^1 • arrived cam -

inc: a 111 nth basket lilkd with chee^ bottler

of Wfee* JUKI breELd

"Dreadful phtre for a pienst..," Mr Ppwetlsaid- blowing warmth into hi* hsntiL Ailorig

t&blg$ nearby M students werecleaning dried mud from piles of hooks i pnge.''ii "But cold inhibit- ilu- Powellcontinued. imThal

^

tin- word Tor mold, by thr

ti>: id Fbircncr these duy*. the ihirce most' linkable word- are all uni* amt— fta/ht,

fjtfrgp -if i* I mud, l

l

1 1 1 1 r:n i lei/"

MWi were lucky* though, about tht oil.”

\Ir> PtiWCll scud "The Xatnitird Library u.i-

‘me of the few \\hu es where oil did little

rlnnmêM

The desperate m enures adopted ih she

faujtif hour? .tftec ibr (food were i vuLvmginto a feystemuiunH itêmbh line I during thea

I i= !rm k* loaded with driest books luun the

conschpti'i.l ttslwuCco barm-. brirk kilns, andtextile plants dimhed up lo Fort Btlvfcdjem

where ^heKinE hud been tresled in the stone

i^w-pin s- Tilt; RriEifdi team i if experts cammedi mi. !i

, -:-lume for it- condld^ji .miJ rartiy. andIhen marked an irnstxucticjji -in-t-i For fcht 5.111-

dem Volunteers.

Chcyojma pt'u|ile aiiriL from mamTindons urn I spoke many tongue the teamumÎ the interruiii'inal system of lu^hwaysign:-— tin iifnt 1

1 hutui'ler- wilh which mcj

tCmists in Europe on famiJiar ThesleJi* fol example, me, ml “

I Jr 1 not h«uch.,B

The FiiwelL climated that musi u i Mor-riii s- - • n- 1 o k : 1 nn he saved, rhnuuh none enn

W

sli> when t|u:y will atjhe fliven new blndinp

1 hi ft îned anrj carefully Liken apart at

£ . -rt ttelvederi?* tlur dried books were given >i

faath1 The wjudimg* prrssm^ imd drying nt

the smpamted fauces WTil dune ul I he heating

j}] lili t o t' Lhe F lor?: < 1

1 c mil f i Lit I -taim i—and a

mace unlikely pt**ce mr die saving of it®&ul

ltbiiLt> cannot be mivanned

In the Cavernous moms litled with huge

Iniilfr- nj.ii jungli- tiyms r-f j-Upt s

load Lit a halik of w mid iiiluntiKetl

the i.ulrl handmade pa£c> ]ii piam tapwater

mixed with fun^'ide Thi dried were

apt id become brittle became the old

h.ijrim ;Lnrl âlhereti in puddli - the W-cshmy

itohed nut ihb old g[ue The c metal tot nr

wti- Lhnl the old Ink- and handmade papers

i i mld be w .as h f 1 1 w Ltb hjI damape 1:

s nal I v

,

like iud-ividiiiiljlimes were flnttpnrd in a prta-s

and hung out to dry ipapfi 26-Tl

Sally I -i hi StniUL xta Amarkup binding: us-

|jrer? now lis'itij^ in London, wa> ^ptrFvi-.ifPg

the worlds oddest wssh- Ofcaûnually a < luud

ul -Irani tmptud frqrin the boilers with u

iTiieho. ieWî/a* ;l- the hem mi.' plant went

about it- normal busine**.

The IP Ml Em stilled, Ln-isEiird finish1

111 I'l-isunn ill ml !' Sr B MiSini M u+imm lie tWiaied

MtwJ bidkeri Hare top- spinet "i Ihe lOili icuturv, its sîiBidiuu Imaof cracked, Miif-

ft IffWITH a cittern ' rlghl ' nT thr S3TIW imtumI imd I Ath-cralLiry iriMfitmi nU of tin: lilk

famih Mireidiar Ehniit Kcûlsi tiplsls the iplit buck ami tsiih-firntnry vfukin, 41

I * - Ii ^ * i! UiH# L * JLI

*

42 National Geographic July* 1967

"We used Hi jump/' Mr*, Smith silm I “but

W i-

' v e- gnw0 hi. the noise And Ihestf pei

.

pie have been Jtijsl wonderful; we've alrang

lints on all of their iiivorit^ pipe- ' \ ml indeed

the whole plane was filled with pu#c* hanging

in the air like tattered sails

A ft er <in in? ai the healittf pfcml, the b< »oks

were return tid To Fort Belvedere mill m -eh a

treat muni with thymol crystal* Lu prevent

mildew. lh late Fcbniwy, the eqlirc book-

sulvaee program h.id been moved Lu Lhe

National Library. Workmen Mr| installed *large ethylene-oxide g.L- chamber in the fax

den to fumigauj kifgu number- of volumes UL

enure O.H^nflUy the; unit had been drsmuudto stiarihirc powdered *oup, no! books.

Thus tlie rescue nur- wa& ftting on- with a

growing "t hope in each passing week,

Flve months aster the fl« n I c RlA h a< I r .1 ] ^c rJ

nearly .md wn^ girding lor lIh-

long-range problems of (rcstornliiin lb.il must

tvtiw 1'ih Inw ihc tirst nil I

EVEN HUH-OH the living of paiiiiing*

n nr Urol (Hu re icm] huoL- held dit- world\concern, my mo it indelible- impicr-Mim*

utt. of the CotmLî- ijsf the pupuio wimd-fJ

—

Flo retiec% “liti.fc (jeoplfc.1 *

The flood did its worst where human beings

roEilii least alibi'd it Ycats ftgn Hie small

rraftrmfn^—the makers of nmasi^, I he wocjd-

tarvm. the leal her and si'fcliki worfctirsp the

jewelers- settled hear ihe river, where water

power would I urn their small machine. FI or

ms is probably the test European di> when:an economy rests so heavily and happily upon

hajidcraftamm and small najuiu/Hctiirers,

many of llwm using the louR ami tcdniiipn^

handed down tbruunli Generation!;

The image of Florence after lh\i flood Was

tbit of sntall shop owners sweeping out the

remains, of their life's wn r k_ Bui they are,

.* ft it ill l . VUI re hi i nc s f frei r dete r mi r.ition Iu

carry on was voiced bj .VLm’dEji Iiat tag) l

who, with her parents*run - a nuill SeiiLher

gtX"b shop near the Artm

‘We now have w t urc q^liiei from ihe- he

ginning." she said, “but wc will continue My

I

lart'in r’ lives am I more lliun 25 ynirs of myDwn life cainmi lie destroyer I in one night,"

Thu i hi y - im mef 3 i .u 1

1

> .1 I'e c r the_

1o«| were

difficult for the artt-.&3i- T but dowl} life andhope revived. With aid from such organize

lion uNKsrth the \ nr hi-American Rebel

Ku n d,and th f FI nrentine Re I i t* £ h'um l t b

|

hm r-

hu 11

I l.i> Svnut 1 u t' 1 as b r irm F

-

t'l S nf K\u irffe

1 -

1

and,FlornmriAvm fi Eimpn wr regnui rsg hack

on their feel

nistrjr>‘ meanwhite Eldded an ironic foot-

qptc Two wtos£ " iiotebofifcSi of Ijeonardo da

Mnd| discovered in the Natii>nal library of

Madrid, were minU- puhltt shun lit al'ler (he

dfe§ttsttr_ They indufied a long-forgottoi

drawing from the are at Florentines elaburate

sdu 1 isir to coni rut flooding of the Arnu with u

complex nf rannls, dam-, and n?servmre The45(F-yrar-olci pbm rm^hf have saved iêo-

nardoS cit> much grh-t. Bui it wii> MVOr CftT*

rivd out, ami Monfrtre sn, its valley ha.- liv i d

il^ history (j 1 iJl>il>Ut- U Ii.lI. nseasiires tn Hivm T m

yet he t*ikfn. to protect :£ remain the lonLt

ilsmii:ln^ n( innmmnvhur now. It &crin* enough to hail the

KMir-

.11 It1

1 f V hi re 1 ii Cs? I' I sr clt\ ha- reeainn l jm fu 1

1

ib nirmer apfiMantc I'lEmitinr holds andpensions are; ag-iin open \ - ,nv finding

thousands of shops doins business as Uraud.

and b&st uf all.lfae art - a ns are hj*ck ai workCountless acts of courage and determination

and ihe supjwlft of ^ gAmpathedt world have

nmiic It possible edr beautiful Flurviicie to rise,

like Botlicefti's \'ceiIis. Irotn tlie waters.

Furli ips the scene 1 wiSF remember most

fn>rn thv dark winter tiny* was a troup ol

blue-dud mud digger- -v. rngine thc(f Wji>

through the chilly streets of ânta Croce

Thivc yiiLmg people from Engtanrlr Switzer-

land. Bdsdum. i Li l United France,

Uunruarfe. SifermEiny. Spain, Austria the

Js'eiherlLLiiil^ and Hrîi vu-re cli'urtng-celliirsj

Hjll filled with tru- t'wl mu+ k iveek.^ after llit

ifmrt lu - m4 paJavt*- hnfl titen deanedi wrptched until Lb *:

1 truop uf 1 huger- lurm <1

a 1 'ifru-r and vtmished from siaht But I could

st it I he.'y them Mu d-splaitemli cold, andtired, they wvre sin tp he thl emli

H rid Rfn is the ccnhiru-v, i*i'- a.i rv br-n^t 1 h v Hf 1 ,iii* r to lift- tiî-vili -he Humnufloodlit I’alnux' V^vehio \ ulli cciitur^ copy o3 Miihclmietlo -

J

IJ.ivicT starul- under1

tut iiiui i£-

1 i 1 2 ertihtems n! I I 'irm ihv iitEjauxial -r i^rL:- tn the Vi.wIeih^ 1 5 i-il! > .l \ £ eTLj -

mmiiifi in ihjcSuhL Volume lii'Udd 4 spUTT-f of r nii~-ri

>

p a -JH t tirtikr foftte.d shat I'Mtf-TM-

jjinyctl u» show defmnu uf cliemy urtilkry lire during ii sstfie. Exhibiting dmilur

rnetlk f loretHincs U.v- \- fUirsed tjufk lu health (heir Firenze BtU^—‘Rcfluttful Flortliie

FPl^P^j W ' w I M.+ -• !+ L43 C UKXTf

LAKE POWELL:

Waterway to

Desert WondersArticle and photographs by WAt II: R MPAVERS KHWARDS

Niaiiona.1 Ckognsphk Stuff

II K E-; A SHINING MIRAGE hr held bysome lo>l protpoi !ur in the deJ^rt* p, vaî

' new hike grows in the West behind GlenCanymi Drtm un the Colorado

EiffJy in 19W, hugi- *tm) gute- droppedarms* thi mnnels that for tmir vtiit? huddivEfttMl the Colorado around Lhc

my.Telc plug, and the river be pun to rile, Dirr emjltln^ Uikr will back up 10ft mUri-

Glen Canyon Ihim, Gooding one of the

G ilnradu1

' lensl known uni mi.-l pii rid

lift 75 milts upstream from Grain)

Canyon* which beauty- loving Americaniagree min never bede^poited b> « dam TheGlen Canyon project is part of tbs Colors In

kiver dcvehiTTmeni iim^ram that began with

E]ir un-iii Hoover Ihum reimjiktud in iijjj,

-Ntnm Ijikc- Hhmivs Hundred h cifUinLKund^

To in iistronauL. tbe oiiie^rifliuii-gaNun

rent- tv otr hi Luke f*o\vril rising behind GU-uCanyon Dam would; resemble a gigantic holt

of forked hghlnfripc sjanMcl across Lhr Ari/timt-

I i;ih desert i;map, pkg& 54-3*. To 4ome peo-

[j

I

t, it represents Irrigation, Hood i uni ml,

electric pguw+ tfc riMthm* and beaut) u

man-made miracle Tu others it demonstrates

the way- in which Lite vpltnrjur ui naiitn-,

rewiiJisfl thmu^h MMiff of neohiirical chau^ .

ttiti be drowned by ihr work* oi rnuti in mimtiiM of cosmic lime—a trujdc error:

But gopd or bad. n has bc-cn done* andeven a tamed river may offer more _ ir- rliup

h> conqueror is capahb of comprehending,Before the dam Wii£ built, tîch ytJia

1

- visfr

lors to Glen Canyon could W i i-n tiled, in the

hundred-. fhough the? area i.= refonte frombarge pupulainni tenter# and >iilt rflasively

little known, nearly 360^000 pftgqtif swamed

thru* hist year. Al dir hei^hi irf the s«uonMU j !:H>3iE.% ui.tp laiind^d weekly, with morethan ?D0 ciili-i i-j there on Memorial Daywrerktnd liIoeii\ Victor? are drawn m?i merelyby lhr rfi -ElJ Waiter and Lbe ahilndaji! '-jv

thine* but al^ by the cmiliUiilnrcd, cliff

-

jili iriifd, Liim iip-r.Lrved setting. unra\ .ilcd by

any other b_:'Lre hike m thr worl'I-

Nmnc I Timurs Explorer id u Century 4 llu

I 11 rs t encoun Lered thU « b^r r t hi n d in 1 9fc2 1

before the Colorado -i irtud o> fib the .',heLT-

w aJEcd i. any un lb Lit iwUi- jw.iv tu chr fttirth

east from the damîte^ 130 mik> nuEtli of ibr

n enre-it nry ol \ri 70 mt. At that

time, dualing rimvnpi rewni im ji t wit mLicli ii must have 4p|Mylrei) H renliity"

before MHhe m»n for wfiom Mil- luJ.Lt i.^ nwm^!—Mnj John Weûv 1

l

trti,ti

il r rlmtntl^st l'k

ptorcr of the Colorado mid a fn under of tb^

Natifferia) fieographk bocieiy;

"I'.tA! these towering monument^thimi- nil i tmded billows of ornnev >andiHun*i

past these ojk-.wlgkh*, past ihesL fern-decked

a I Hi cive+i, past these m aiîi l u r ve* , we glfda hoy r

:iiter hqrtLir.#l upping now ind then* as out at-

tentioD i.' ari^sted bv sortn j new winderDriftim: along

rf could Imagine Powell—in

In- Uiirtles, a Ihl' whiskered veteran of ih™-

t .’i viJ WnrlliiLl rudi-Dsi him .uLtm—landingIn hij bout r lending bis expedition ilmvn the

Coloraijn Eli 1 g64.

fur tw n monlh? tpid i? 5(i river imlcN, they

buttle rl naplds Then, from the junction of

the Colorado nod the Hih: Devil Rivers in.

tin 1 mreditg of the Pari a, thv becamesnioolbitr, Pnwi ll named this idyllic -;t tl-

E

i.h

i ii«r

i Cany cm. i hoite '.vu^ ,l|4

fConiinutd cj«

Di'sert vumish, create I -is irv:m m»l niiiEiLyLiict-e 'Etj i.q-ije, 4.reiK: ^ >aiH:-tonL- wuJ] an fm\ d-

m11 ^ E 111' the fmrM fttni nf new Like Powell In southern Utah FloMir mft soil-

r: - : 11 u: waters Lacked Up hy Glrn Cnmn»n Dmtl UImtcl ilUcd In chpacfly* eIll- wiH

dinwn l his hM&m hut others .equally spectscuinr survive m nuce-mnnle canyons.

U i + ,* Hr - U'Htl'MI HIKHtTHIE 13tir> I

* 3-=d ^ e n utiH-d pjjtbfid npii oUlft. i iv i i mkli tempi-- -i.m -ri.ilii r| tiifetTs Tn hnuei m it Ikultm •.

Thin. *to Litr* \i timmm COttiW lofrftfi* tiw K-S -ilutil-r khw, fehmtE JhiIes liar Ctitiirarln

46 DtsiarK Lp Uorc* \nh 3i left MUr hmor* I.Jr John Oliver L.i Ootte ( I WOT, feta iervcii

lKl- XiiLiottiil Gtflfrttphil Sin le!*. un U ^i'MFV Iru'hultnR ihrnr. j'fir- .ta Prchlrirni :uid Ei!ih-r

ritEmnEi*!'. ]_.Lki' tWdl ^jII iovcr lh\? silt baf urn I llie rtkky irt the* fiiYvumiinit, hui jpiifa

Mu' jirrh SurN Iwauly wtjniStTK hidden ileep m ^lurt*-- h< trih tit•!(!?< 4 7

t ...b*l Lnu kite Hit-1 1 ill

J'rem :i Jsil^iL bill nil ili r ri t ;) ni-

you L Him., a %’tishcriiiHri nets j

I _ -j n r.b nd e j -1 lev* ire n r [ i,-ih :i mg

u 1 lif siLti ]mr it|njrb. hnili

bekiw ,smJ diking i\.c jt J W«it-hi c h ii- 1 ii rt'lf [lieu aii 1 1 1

1 m“i|jh-

l?r?rilfij: =.^arL r lJh' wnrliJ'- high- Ji.1

bffrii't'. filter?

itn-PEinri in trout. Lu aemeulhbast ifldnjbfu Mid i-.iU'iib. Air

itnfyi- fieri' uli rally it; k thr

lilkr tpLlJZCn frH-<h.

Bfiit'if tdbldrr, .i. w t'n .eiin

ri^b ls;i'« vnj.ill foj Lhc huoik btl« >

ul 1

1

n Inc- nl li fradcr

Ih « ii* Drift *"•! 4 j i. k i - . 1 1 1 1,

fredi trmii, dusted wirls ium’licisl, ;uv;ut the frying | iLUn 1 h>-

;iri?mn pnjn> .ilmaft men- I h.i.

.

hungry rcurii ifcnj can br-ir Thes.1 . liMjs nifiht Ebry spind

."icuiiinz I.-ll:- «.pei lbJ> wedge mf

.-anrL br-idr tbi1 Inkr nr.n' Heli 1

in ihe knik rpap They.i wakened lou iwldti'n dim Unit

rm(Jtd the i:at! u- die star*.. mid

breakfast'd hh If|t hiirnmi 1:

j un

ii imbed abm'e thr j.irittd hurt

jfiirf inrf cm efaprfl tlif l’ijvc.

48

Lak* Powi'M Waterway to Desert Wonders

! Iffc Mu- hvt'r - imrnm LnhuLirx amyoustempt the ecplurer into fa^dnatmp: sdens

—

ii-m-t fnsri. l^Ln-is whxrt walls* tapestry-

itrniketf wjiJi desert varnish hy imn and mail

seepage I page "S>i, lower up to thin

cerulean irre.>ceni :- fn r iwrt 1 1 -H-i 1

,an t I Lit. mi*

L-hsi r Avct% glow LjeSii at-eh pink or orange

Whei k I ft r ft drifted t hmupli 1 3 1 c n Cmyimmunj inicTi Kikihi lurch* irurd Other wonders.

iliffirLih ii imi impossible it) pead^ remained

unexplored Four year* later, with the like

flooding deep inlo UieLr twbiljijE passagt-^.

1

1 • : bf - rutir qci'tsfnhle by boat, and 1 Jfi

*. ns! Led, Li party lor an ixplur ilory cruise.

To mvigaie Hit new lake, we attained two

Huchlur Jel bemis Developed by New Zea

40

hinder U dLi.ii> Hamilton tn Lruvd hrc humrland? i hit! low nmnniai n itvrrrttts, they drc'.i-

tess than 6 i

m

hr* oi wnitr qi their Ift-mile-ao-

hour * r 1

1

i - M i j ffiwd, and could lum in l heir

own length \ sing ,i waterIut -y>h-m m-St-id

nl |JhOpeliers, they were sisltx$ of the boats

dun in i960 climbed the CoSoradifs rofcnida

bit- rapid* m Grand CjLHVrjn. 1 We suimed

them 6* nv.ir Lady and Blut L&dy.

J o help man I hr m on our month long

ltui.vc up LaW PlswvII, J rjdi-ipfl 22-year-fjId

William iThiz?' Belknap III of Hmilder I'ity,.

Neviiilii, v Jso at 16 had piloted one of the

craft in ibc Grand Canvun adventu rt?. HeHr

*Sr* ^Shunlm^ kaplcb in k-L"i'rn-t:|ri

Siy WLILLaift Bel-

krh^p, Jr NatUIKAE OtEH)HATHEi'. A] ml. ’i^i

?

w \ fcs jcKt n-L'fi by hi? -lÊrr [*ose înd bi_=- itinther Franc*-?.

0i£ fat tier, photographer William Belknap. Jr a In-iûunt

iintributot to I be S it'UGRASMî joined u.- whenever hr

could. $nbn Efrttnt* a graduate :Oi:i|l<ii( -if the UnivnOft)n£ Minnesota in MrniiropolLs, and jerry lIarrcU> undcr-

pxaduiile ai the University qf Missouri at Knnssas Cit>,

v* mi ptoted *W Lejmi- 1n adtliUm Di I Parker Vjtfr Z 4 n i h

,

m| WasMingtrjtt* D, <L, a spry aviation

plOWtiti und former ajfrtriblifor to I hi* migiaBWt* acuoiE-

pouted us for pari <if our journey.,

ip n hl scorching June afternoon we started from Wah*

wmpttthom five mih-,* lie hi nr l ihr 7 ICMimt-high dam ansi

it.- vpectoiiulm bridge, world r

& bights MbrS-urrh spanijunyi, (Si Until work Leurin on (he -Urn in l

r^fi„4S mile*

Lit jeep tf.iLl- .^4*|

iiJJ.it t:d Lin.1

-it*. In 'in pnYtid kiL*:liw.t\

After the burner was fobbed. like National 3Tnrk

^Mirvive, whh ti jdminisim the new r den r nnyon N;i

tiurud Re< reatjon An m. I mill paved rnaiik betddr the btt$

ill the nmuLh of W:ihwtM|j CVetik, the Like's Earnest bruit -

likLi nr h s rue u nra Xi

*

w , w ith a nui lei, i nu I er park* a n d nui

riiu, Unhwoup Imults with Lietivity. t l_ikr s r.iJF'u ha

.grown o fast that n k 'oast i tiLi r r I station bn? been <stah*

Itatjed to assist with an nj»gre$*iive WAter-sitirky [iniLniim,

Like t ruMng lit 4 Willing Vim Line

Between W-itveap .md Padre Einx . 25 mile- u^laki*,.

(.he river had not vri i limbed out of Its cunvoti In theV I

11 ' W

namiw chiuituj the wakes -ni nur bout* and others

bounced brn k and forth between the clalT- churning .l

chaotic Mnrni id I'risac rf^siiiB echo wuvp> \? Jerry put

it*w ITs likt* i ruising in n washing mu* time

"

I’jdi i. Bay was worth the pounding we (uok to êt

there (pages JM} The lake1

* id

water, k i nt rod lin’ ed us to the massiyp red sands Lorn cliffy

am] TTinnnrnenii that would hr out companions during

mmb o' kill1l.rip t iuuddlt Bmte Jmorii il h -.

!

.,t _: i . Ll it Aitd

-

dir to mir Eeft. On our righu DAmingdfeJ Rm k hu.nd its

1

l* 1 1 jiiurjolitb bom the ]etke T and many minumeii buttes

hOkji] airmnd ites like ditiniheil sentinel*

1 me of tht he-u-knnwn IcLmlfuat'ks lies betw i n VadreRay Here in 1776 tw rn hranciscam, Father^ Domlnûi-.-

*n i I Eseal atill! fou I ud ifn- Uolu r i*do -m t h t sr re turn 1 1

1

Xtnv Mcxka, after u futile Attempt to u|nm a d ire* t route

tei Lbeir orders California missions. The spot name lu be

kTimvii as the tTnÛlg of die Futlie rs. \? I .uke Powell

mrmtrd, rht * ros Liiy vatu^thed under iLuli-e H.n

We b# itched out boat? on a -trap of golden -und :u

Padre Mhlt wMirt the Navaju> plan U> Fmilii marina,

uaid p3 united ijUn the wuirMLlotlpr- um\ u!t The ikt&vm

ilrv Fi im 1 hud tfehydmfed u^, and KB soon learned, lhai

the *inh wnj* to remain comfortaltte was to drink tmllon -

"i w Liter und wee our?eJves dnwn nl every oppuruimrh'ol Iowing lunch Hm/ md bnie derUonstTated then

M&r-n 111 Olr 1.1 * Hill-, ll- Smlli, l.jr. Ulr f I.LlLl \ .kK Zîufct wnar^lAfikbilE l^wpi -wi k-.ijrui^" iiir Uir Mtirrh, kV?r 1-FnoAAeufC unrl

tin tin [ rjiil ii£ lii-r Atr Misil" in jim uim iUJO u1jv*1 uk IVm'j-, m)

K«v.i|tf \o:ij.is Ui ifcr .tun* i 'U s,o-ui*

t Refill 1+Hay V^pUttef! nn l1i|- NiK-ia mTi'iilinciiEl liiClIlTwr* he *l'r «rii

!Sr;i Ko Shinius \puntiinf" ffTffd^ft¥hfl r ‘

:Ajiril. tBfri

Diami ol cbflllfB wriHight byLcikir PowrJl uiiEoJtih irt iilr> •(!•-

itraiih? i f l i rc^-FT’' Rnttr miul.-

fciyr year- a part

Whin rtuiFkoi Ed wanb, flying

«c* a » fiitapanioii LL"Lj?ntiiL.

\hc pkUirc above* 3ti Jtmp,

ihi- C'al&Hkidn ^nakrrl btWKn-tfHjp-wnEii'il hank* N :

>ic mombslutisr, the ear i -r H|eti i'anjun

I '-t J 1 1 |.! #.I i/ii, uinii Ull* WaEc.r t .1 1." -

?ar cniToaChinjj on (lit lunrl

H' IuiUb Ol lî I lii klkt ;dnn>sr

ri J1ys (J i c u: i r - Bn He . \l ia|JH i il>

FowlEI wiJl i«vit Lht1 fiifnin-MCilii

behind rliF luiiiir and I urn tLe

-t-iJE3c l.rj ts of mu* ail

- - • «. j.

51

water- -kii mu- expertise When Hr£ljiia:r IVin-

cess Margaret and her husband LunI Snmv-lnn visited the Snke tit year before* lie hmlindulged bib fundoes5 for ihe spun The Novcmber weiiiher wa

s

took and he had ypurn awet -.nit,, hut wr nuedrd fio nirh instilniton tn

midsummer the *urf:u:e water was 72 f" . .uid

ilic -ill ii blamed ndfciittG&ly.

^Eurm-lossed Family CeiIU I nr Help

Keiiriin^ u|t[ake the next afternoon* wrerounded a Jong kurv? lunding inln t-asi

L'hame Huy, n brnod* straight arm that

stfetchtd northward, pandielbai' thu multi

-

rntattd layez cakeofrht KsiijjarowJLs Flatg-jju

for mrirc than ten Sufideriy we werec . b 12 nJit m one nf T-ake Pow$UN many moods—the lian^-urou'* ottei The weather m thein ^ i.i ti is t-upririuus Stunn* eaisn he wild andM-lualb Etnil lm.il j

riL' ti/ 1 1ih u* >v.iv. uri v i m

[iiiii competent crewing.

Ai the mouth of the )m\ we overtook afamily in flislxe.^ Pfic wind, whipping whilestreamer* i rum heavy swells, was toying

With a tiny boat and iKi'upants* a COM] di'

and their fiw youngsters The d re lull or I little

ones were erring.

“Can you take my children ?11

shouted the

desperate rather Thu waves denied about to

swamp his ho rmrnuule plywood craft.m1'-pn rJanstmt^r sbotiterJ John, “Head dir

hhwel Ovfir there!"

Wc courted the Jilrk- boat tu a sbrlkrtM]

Ijtac h, ftm 1 noon Lb l: fa rts i I v si . ,5 if ryin u at011 tu I

li life* wcanne Ported 5 parr cMhirig fromour duffel bag* ^ipNjmr-ite, upper),

'VUlt the storm, wc breezed otil nr I^-rt

Chill h f |In s?nrl headed uptake once more.Between Dungc-m Citityopifc :i 1 wv Ivinz be*

neiiih 250 feet nf Water, and the Eiiouilt ufthrNan Jnun River, 22 miles further up the l.ik

sihoul twenty TriKuiJiri conycin; drain Km-pFmnVst- I'ljteuiji in die imrlh mrfMesa and \nv,dn M min tain Jo the Bouth_

We liarl explored mam of iht-.-r oik -ujr rafr

lri|i Four years before*, li i k

t

e 1 l: ilu p into suchc vociiiivfJy named canyons a- t>am:li tie

Kcipr, Cascade, Twilight. Little Arch. Mystery,

HI mikcfa and bonfire warm barter - draw hrrJ by

U iKfiUllI 1 1 III I. J 1 1

!

i' i'-E I Lhtm dll Lilrl i lldll! t

[is i

.Jfili i . IE , .iji- he rc 1 1d pi i it ft* :i i u K A wt i

-1 i srr ..

I ii! it mined (he climbing 'Kim thiit Rralccl Vnleue-

til v- * hfclLvd iwak* o< June* l/Jfrtl

Southwestern tun copperptel#*

huLLf.* ,i!h^ e TVslI’i Bi i-, wlUTr jc*!

l^idL- i’uL « rv_imy ttdke-- A] I but tilt tip

111 hlflrr IViint li-f-*- within ihr

Viviijf? rite^Mi -4loli dial boftkra Lake

FriwcM's eastern shore N>ufli of ilie SwW

]unn Kivc-j ima;i, ne^r paeei I he Irl 1 *

44 Jn-artnfl and mmi-ip here.

T Si ri 1 1 i ti " \ i > dioi r tiF*,! hunt rfitc* Li Nby ajn i aim!^

^kimi the lake A ulme\m\m like wiMiyul bis fallow

TmtLois. Hiir'-iiil Duke farmed a rniid! idand near

I hi- tmitiih i il 11

iiut i

k ( iinyrpn before the riaitts* I li k «_-

tt'jii.c'rf tuLErulfpl tl. A 4 live in tnlhil .j ti"jjr \w

strve» a> a member of the Navajo {jiunH] and

for .i time was (' IminniLn rrf the toUUriT'-* ptflk}

nidUciu; Ajl^lHiO^ t uminJtEee.

41

Ot-T4t

|fTubfV

1 IHhHJii-nai

* . .

* '.

I E j -a j ng in 11< - n o ^-civ stfrt!

|oJ' Eli luitfirLi j > - • mi*, i J i r Col i !

«

lipum* south tvtjfl wd'M| f< 1.45' > mtfe* to n-.if| SffcMuV* f *nJf *1 fnfiJ'

tiEq. firman rln rLe Atar^r* 4 l-cm'*™ I ill* miizhK JfctffrJNr ill 1541! i

J! nr

ilirn t-ejiUJfirt it i-rmuliij*i 1 ji ri vrr of'nivsijcry. In fSft’j. M:tT.

ji iifL * ini 1 |'.in> rlcj'.'.'ii thff « n c hum: i i t.Vi i r£i ilu

th lvonfleu lm.il- Tocfey mcftr thntl 4 11ifatin* tmm riv*'r anri it-

I cl rj--‘piu:i -..hows J S m-iiNf Lfijfcdljitlimv

l?wlW*ALto: M E a i,» iirUBST- — “ u

S c£>3 : l

I

'•

Kt fl ^ ’ c*W>T

>Y- )T ‘tf* *n£T^ AY ifeu P ffri. “.7^ f. r

!ratf

_V .

fiY -iw* Entfjf A-tirwu

W

% % U ‘’’r’iLT" i fLaJ!>!in

/ l

,tr'feMf% *** W .

If;. *f0» <•

MM '4

tis

V

* SJi*& KJI

54 MftrUiCvrpr^

MfrTI

N ,4 7,4 JO rftEJ£«H^47jOWfc I . . r 1

i “ -

’ \

UTAHARIZONA

;, *

.

Lake Powell

70M

ITiTyTF Ulilb

ilnltikxu .vi fart

C-an^F-i jjiftir> fa Can

Wllfmt lAkr ifca*!* dl rntarrtT’

farmf* rmfr !> 1i j r* j^ptwi in

'l'lti'

I * i: MUm h'mJJ pr u*« ».* •_ ljwimh . ip i mV* !, t% *f* •••*!. ..nSE?^

Civil ;nr vL-ftMim Powell, wbp fust a Isurarpij At

<hibh- ffcJ’Lia.hl T3*pJih far itu*-.i «f

hi: hiring ji-iunn >. ibwH !h'- C nIwaiIu Rut in a

1 Tfrmile tfretMi nr the river between it.- fuAritooi

with ihr Dim 1>rei3 wail VimA fcivjrf.-, Fnwdf and

his roknpunii^ ffaiitH «n autihjIIi, swift wafer,

Aweij: by rhe beauTy ctf the afonlH* 4d* ciJaytifi*.

h.i iiiinii'iJ liif fitpn 1 uim.ii

Km PitmcU F.lilLIl' thief TilO-pj \U* fat1

banks of rfor yfcran River in f'tah .luring, afi IftTJ

f.ilMHlitijm The v.ptifct blir b' ruter the IkrvL

I>tT i -i inr cil"Hint StnlUUHHjiatiS Bureau nf Elhn^tug;:-

.

s

!

I l hrri'fiir iil chr l -i m

-

nfaiik.il -m vry,ftnrj

a, toimdtr of the >NaticmaI (idturnitilm Society

i

Hidden I\k—astr. Cmhcilral, Music TempleA few., Mke Mudc ‘IVm pie, 4 vast* ferit-

FiinprcJ »;ii.imberthiil Powell had found ""filled

with sweet sound*" now lay more than 100

feel beneath qur hulls, but others, !tke ^ ’ailw-

drill and fferbiddinE Canyon*, bad summ-dened imh their outer dfirtr-r-

It Jlfl C’ii rfi i: % Fur? 1

* up N , 1 rn 1 mi1^ ( h^imit'U,

The Like had npened many remote t>eaul 1 k--

lu the eye? os the voyager (.'atb^dral had bitn

one of nv fitvodir^ In l*M2 we bad pene

i rated only three of it'- refuiinl ill "irmnis"—cavernous bulges ' Ulptured out of the sand*

stone ggtrps by milkmmu in* of w&terdiomt!

sand and cniveL The lake had N*i:n murethan MM.I feet ^nu't1 th^n, nnd this unae we1 1m-<d lor almost 1 wo miles in a channel t hut

f

rmUrLwted and expandrd as it twisted, until

finally it became ton narrow for our fid IkijUs.

Here we unshipped utrr Sjidrt Yak* a hard

pllk&tk Isol&L shaped like a life mli, nut muchlarger than a bathtub, kmii likable* akid :v|e-

imrenlly indestructible 4S) \i various

times we had paddled it, rowed irp sided it,

nr draped 6t lJi iriLi 1 h e fprrtlnd I* tailed w ills

duffel Inverted, it -ur v n J !io^7 ,i> a bodIf! this liny cm b F lu^jt femeil u- -'\

I i.irihi-

up CLithii-rJi-jJ * 41 n yen : until the pnss&jrc bc-

came too tipht for even it5 42-Liirh beam.Khmi 1 1m r 3 *« lint, biikinvmfcnn tiriftwnud lnu^,

or straddling the -.fiftt e beUvuin hitds curving

walls, we made our way to hipher ground tend

picked a mute over smooth buukkTu until

a high iiverfiLtna, the lip of a dry waierral 3f

fnmntted further cxidornttiin

hJSiiix rrnlrs from E ' . 1 1 Su-ilmi r.invi>n ami ahout

iv miles Irniu Wahw^fi is one or iJsc Jife-d's most

flUTM HJ s? vl Ei Ii r

^—

K

. ii n 1 1 n iv Hi1

1 L%c i 64-5 ). S|Hit I-

niny Bridgt Cretfk:, ii_s sjief lactiLii rcirL ar-nh riru-,

J09 ftJtit abort: the stre^tr!1

- licfli Mtikin j H'-tStmmv

tn the rtûrjElf '-s jK>wtf "E tlic; vt | fjtufi n b* 1

Four vi-iar* eurlLer we hud hiked Tor Uve miles

from the river To rciltll Hôbow Bridge, ih rotting

our wily i j;

• I’orhifidinsr CaayaTh ovrr flower

h-c-kiffj rluni-.-. through ^li-irrnnu Hi ii I it Creek,

past ±ire;i1 nn 1. - .nuE i -. - .i - nmal few WHterfatti Wrbsi4 sto^^jed often lo linper la thr i I ihhiU alouj

the canyon fWbr H was 4 tough htke T on<f b reding

hot I pjcutl uikc ill our party pspiitg a> he floppy

I ji'l 1

1

\\ thf dUi h. 'Ttti all here. lull Mim-'- litAhOdy

inside puaJiiriy"

’ELil^h Urn* of ’’Three Kisiiiia fo FtolftfruU ' IN lhe

April . t nst^ National GEuoRArtllc-

f i-rErt* ii IllW in. nf Pa^ irn Mm‘ il-Silli it

Powult patch lhe desirt^ branny maniJr.

AtrldJ vlt-w 'UTvt«U Ehr JttlwV pnuthem vm\

rift ifa iMtorui Utah hwiiiij A pr&ntjniiit

l,i rid mark, I^ftE Rfck . Iirotn* hke a forlrT^j

;it upr{

n

1

r led -Jft'i nppHitri rven ffiilfr l«r-

iftHhihlL- ui water ievd (b«fc/.|).

the lawn a d4n limit, -[irancr ^liI

Lif s=i, rub lLiiiI MUid-lotic iitop Ariforia's

Mjilt in -ATv wi. wli rf I- Nilvajng. %rn££t] I fri' i r

«hrcp onl> -l dfitfen ytnr-i ago Pram I he

,i pluaii L'll « -jti r- 1 Lm Le -. buiSt arid

adiJiinirteiH by the E'lylrra] (iftitromirni.,

Pane -willed ift itSmaif 7,TOO tesWrTitj.

tliqmnn cumLniLliuji uf the daiii

Today the EoWtl CftUnU at mill T _2Dfl hut

rnrltmiiJatKv .1 llhr%|i*Ml.n hmifH X* A

rrn râtiiHI ^tniJ it4t?iwril I'cntrr. Huiinrs.,

schools, oflrCQ builflin^Ji. tUjw’.rmLirkuL-,

mcili l,', mil t vi i‘ It» .* en churehej litit bruad

paved M/wLl Tlie Dtime hucusr- Lbe LuLe

juian 1' Pape, Cpmmi^toneraf the Uiarniu

ill Keclurnîiîli Ihiftl 1

1

iA T let ?IJ ln meld

{jlmuer in dfi, dopmenE of the Cetwratlo

kivrc'- rrr-r'Urr^ 1 -

l' Stl'

lJt lapfiini atfo>j- lln- Uflrlitc,

]J 39 k INiiie with k-jJLdli, E. !nit. Eu Ltie Wesl

und ailh Anmn^ 1^4 mulmile# In Tlti: t^JiaTh ^luumer scmiicr.diare?

• i»ar by day, buc ihc 4,.trjiJ-fi.n.*L clcvaiicti

\iT\d hi' huma riily iffiglr

57

lima iiHiH'i 1 1 m 1 >(1111 11 1. II u *

IS

1*1] well\ hriifst i-ipuiiic isf water, Cadre Bay lap; nr i mmiijbl Rn»i»,Wc funcsround Already tbc faketOHt-L'rL' tnaiii iimnrkHih>rw> jhlMi^uttd*. j iw<u| 1 (pS fcvl iEonb lonuninmn] It11,

1

el will widen Ihrhnj toM* wilier swaJliwinR rhf Milling finper of Cadre Point .ii ridu canter, tttrpl for Itouilnmirc Rack near

9

ii - liji- Water* lick- ever hlujhtr i»n Gnpff Butte \) hi cc 5 1| bsnr llu- nimutfa uf Itnfdilkc LabA Cham Baj ,

.itiil tjL’yoatl PinirL'. rither hiridm^ri*: lilt Lilalcland rj f C-'unmrrimF.1’ ^ff^ Ujiper npiiL the 10+M ftKrt

uliqkbuiik i if iN.iviyo Mon main, behind, and Lhe ibrer ramliiiitfi of Kaipar<witH Plateau, tipper ItfL _>fj

MruiliOL llllsElli itMtjnn F llii

mouth of ForhisIdiTis Ctinjuii Bezuirht'i.-fi m '

h

i of pRto^;

iht\tr titinyof? v-iiUii tiucg*£jiiiEi>

!ht* lltUiillVrritiorijil tlrti k HuPFr .it

N in n '

- n u Brsd pi: m ari nu bnnl

i

!

rs-

can buy barret fn nil

Wahwwip or shop for cafiiijintf

ami fbhiHE ^Fj|iplicr. Mwiiaron mi- pcrjsqctin^j aftd a p,irk

tailor Ilvi; in EbOti'rf!? Unit *11

tbp plattorm

l'"i i r.| I liI-* l.i I ! l! t

"

1 11"!

11 Ct -

fork- ribbed uulec right}, «,irnLi:r-

hormr victors wdl rniii-i 1 ti» the

bounrLory hj| RhIiiIkfW DHiUrVptjnna] \fniiumeot, vidhin a

short. walk id' 1 Jte anti

f>4 >>. whstl Lht= IllLc I i j. .it l . j

j

rL*. -'

J

CSpaiii* \ n firr-Eakf . h i kcr?

SSjilL Iji imnifi tiv» mill lj[i I he

Canyon to redda the landtuark-

fiO

m

Water backing up in Bridfe i 'reek wag

flow 'Uii - 4 mite I r im k.onlinw Bridal 1

, mdtlir Like ultimately will form a reRotting pool

4# feel deep be neath the firth- Sotte jiculoîs^

behove 1 he water rvtiUuaJIv will t apple the

rfttuc u Snr 1 oriTintian 1 "l her? disnarr e I tut

more visitor* have seen Rmnbpw Bridge in

ill l* |iij$t iwu >e.!i- than in liN the prvvintu

yr^xv >inci its discovery in

In tli.u i l r |iil ill Wi.Ll.hrri]l c>

"

ii"[

ft liurM 1

btmvalh Rainbow Bridge* tins first white mtin

known (o have done so Neil M Jmlrl whorli reeled Sort? £ n+oixel frrthedogitaJ tnud-

\c$ n| SntjdhWestern l-miian fu.ul> four decades

a^ci, was with the jwuty L3i.it liitcovertii the

bridal and wrote in the Geographic of hhiwe upon lira tehoMmg this sublime crea-

tion of the blaster Builder"

Our ti|r|-iimurfc PaJfk^r Van Zand I, hfld

known WdbbriU "In I0l?/k

he told us,,4

T

Ikw Wl1I linrill around N-ivain .MiiiinLim on

Ins first pliihi' trip. He wouldn't believe him

small Rainbow looked —like hall a ihin

doughnut Now I'm having pi hn.r-1 time be-

lieving it'^ so lug 1'"

Iftv my part, the sight of ,i murine floating

fieifcr the entrancr to Furl adding Canyon hidteen hard Lu belieVc. Its white structure?

nestled tacangruiiusly agmnst the b rondure

rliflL* in 200 feel of water ijtfii,

Then: was -omcHiing else new ton* and it

^riikmui it- When the Lite level bdnivru tv-

p rioting water leaves a while "bat hr oh riujii,T

• ih l he ivalt> uf the srajit porpte I he Earl that

1 .like Powettpresen i s i is br sr fin c *m ly w Iiun

nnne or remaining ctrttfUust continues a- -nine

argument against >uvb rlarm its Glen CanyonNear Reflection Canyon Line moming< Btizi

and F me l Guv -Cham tens* a .nhimHuMi terF

fn jmi I ui. nun. ArîHiEu .in 11 bis wile IiuLi>. :i

nurse putt pull mi? ajong im a ten mun (itr

mil (x>wrin&d hj a liny outboard mat nruWe've kiiriwts this canyon for years," ?iid

Ml Chamber?- * l

W'' ^lill love ii,

1 hough w*

liked It tetter Ihf hvjii Lt used t < he."

U l11 1 w I* i i ii ihe n i ered Di “i i I e et n r, a ixi Inn I

indict nalisl T i n h is ft fMot it h r i i esc I joat Omn i r1

With air t'oiidiiincmiji, two-wa> ntdinielc-

ptinnr, .isirl „i spcwltejii u> p-nder. lie -nrirt hUWests wj

crrF,rpUîiiro! ir in style.

^This lakers the Ereai«l thrnp; lliai ever

happeueri1 " be exdiii'fnc<1

With t.HOh rtiplesid sterdint^ Lake Powell

m- <-! >.% u- ii i - r I ow r l»rri ^L l> fn

n

Ti rl id w t ?ee mi nrt

than three boaLs u ^ lime above Wuhwr.ip

Fire ÎlII VI j

n

l i - Bui Sit NjVjjJos

The |5;r* n:i-?.f|uiirif-miie Navajo Lidian

KcMTViLiLon tiurdrfi nearly a third q( the

eastern -horu of lilt kike Dm 1 .ilrerinmji. in

the Note ol lirnlmg ijus we cmted fm

22 miles; up (he Sun Juan and imlled lulu Piute

C anu itj > one of -£ve rid ] Lirge so r

m

1* t hat dr iu n

the nor th suit ol NLivajo VI outitsii n Wi 1

left

peif b'miônrj hi kei 3 up the creek Bill Belknap

furfed ahead with a iwo-way radio

He tidied \kh k sthhrily lhai he had found a

Navajo lamp near a a prim: and j ruck cum]in a strove of coliortwoudi. but no NavajCte-

Hl4?oks d theyVebeen here recently " he

^nirf “Suneest you w! nlk up the wn?h”Midi -in hour Inter* a tiny while terrier

overtook Us, .i few sta^caLo barte, :mdi biappeared ahead. Following ,i liand-dm:

ini nation ditch. Wc came fituiEU Uj a spring

and a rock Midler with a fire pi.ice

"'The i:"-ds nix wnrm." announced John

^Whoever wm hen? tsa-ni been nemo Inny’

The icrritr rcappenrcd, Muffing and howitm:-

*>rr 'Bi-UfliU ihii C !1 xi y HLlli,' _M.it i;Ji I'JJ-E 61

3 IF *liac|T wereddv. n at tin- ktr," John

luim-d Li i iru.1 and added: ,lWhen 1 Lull himyou were from tin- Ceuokapiiic, bfc warnedtn know how ]u' cfiuld gpt the mnâiirbf. I

laid him if he’d meel us tomorrow at the

mouth of Piute, ym fti Arrangr it for him*

\r

t-xi dax(Hamid Drake, his wife Stolln*

and four hi' his five children enjoyed their

firsi [ ii iiit ride tn iî^f /jidy 5,3)

The fallowing afternoon found us al u his

tori'-

spot I ^sc, John, jerry and

I fun hid prccttritiu^Lt 1 1 ik j cJitl

about five mili^ uptake from i he

month ol the .S ; t n jijnri. < )u.r feet

rtsEtrl on a Qttrmw terice SO' feel

above the water, DirecLlv below

M>. W nv jf_Ltdv fitjaied oi i hr iiprs

i if a painted in] el. From tfere a

êrp irasl led almost straight upa cleft In 1 h l* canvuti wall to a n nr

-

row nolrh at the tup, 2iî yards to

nur right, known a* Hole in the

Ruck (snap, page --4i

Hvfv in i hi- winter ul ,4

lidi ju! tiJ Mormon pioneers—some250 men., women, imtl children,

with -ome -Stt wagon? » horses * Anri

more t h .in I , . it H i heari of i atd

e

lu-iHcri fin their wu> i nun IAch-

Laiiir, Fs.ih, Vh settle on the

Juan. Misled by over-oiJtimisni

and hazy tset^mphyy they found

thigm&Hves rommittfd to trekking

across almost impassable dstfert*

crossing I hr Coloradn, Anri huilil-

hi\> a 100-mBg road through somtof 1 he roughest country m the

VVesL FfiF break hi the t rk-n > ’nn-

von wall was l be only way to crass

the rtvrr without a kmc detour

In -ix wih'k- id tU|3rrhiuiitLti

Cull they uficncd u muie through

the " Hoi if” wJih Ii! ratine pn wrier,

built u wagon to [id three-qu alters

of a Tnili.1 ilm/vn to I hr ivuter's rdo.\

iL-êmhled is Lift, and nh ibr op-

puii tie -.hi m* hpWeil a road up ihe

EllCl- of ;1 J5(J-fLiot i liff.

The :'ir?t thin] of the way downWas a »1F- degree grade over rock

ibid became slicker and mr*rc

Xtnii hr-mcis with \hv <*s

1 UT 11 Mu- im^t. this -i'Ei - of Flute Mess,

now idoivuig red in the set line sun T warned

un to retreat We hjul pom1 only a short waywhen a sturdy, broad-interi man m red -In rt

and blue jean^ hailed I mm hich dp on ,i rir-c

^Havt- vim seen a link while ringT

Ji>hti ran t u meet h im and rettinied to rc fKirt

'

! 1 1' - .i N.iv.:ju .i I rittht —-naiiii 's

I I . r< I •

:

Drake. [Vo was ture |ileased to find jus little

popch. He and bis family camped hen? last

•-.lip; hi * ut * i-* l_

Si|-i1<in huddltt]^ \k -'ill- 1 lit i ti I Li1 Liu- kiyIni3i p mrh ovgelmihui^ ^VfkctiU t"atL>an.

Wish it' .ilttTrwtfT, ihir- kn-JiH- 1 irtttr

she vertkid opettiuk'; :al aljual "eJ kel Kudi-

The f*nmk window—W'drli of r Liin

,wind, and

Im-E.—-s-tantt- *att\y .iLnyc Luke Tsnwt-LI

every Wauorl Incredibly, they the waeohs ddwn l Est II waftDh'^ f^rulcv.' were incited,

and ib- rtMir wbrel? wrapped with chains Adozen men And boys hunt on behind c«> keep

ft from i areening into the rocks below

Jafii-ph Smnliinl Smith itnd his wife fuuml

fhrTwflvo stranded .1 'be \u\

1 V giumdsnu.

Ravmoiid >miib lYtofcd the M^ry Jt few

>CttTShl

If wc MiiJ.S hfld n few men la bold 1 hi- w;t^-

iin I sa 1 k ‘ Jiineph angrily t?c< latrned 10 his

Wjfe Arabe! E .1

"HI 1 In t hr bidding back.n îd italic.4

-ao

m! , \ : . - hnti I_-iEi "t Lh.ii whin he1

* U&d buck

there for?"

Stanford braced his lefts again st ihcr Tish-

1 1 0*1 ~i!

f u 1id T he v e H dnw ri Old

Nhg wns f h raw n tn hta haim r h

ns] I i'd Ut hta Mile, and pve a shrill

neigh of ieiiffr

“IrUs deed weight vrfll bf its

^xkI a I s via One‘

1

\ ho 1 j u fa r Be 1

1

1

jusS ihi'Ti her foot caught be

Eweeit two fulL' She kicked <1

free Imje tuM her bal.m* l- and wfeut

ifirtiwtfng a 1

1

r r aid Nig- She

blinded b> l hi: Mind She grilled

her teeth and fating on 10 tire lines

A fagged rack tore lift r Irs-li ami

hot pain r4n up her Lem from heel

fu hip The wagon itnirk :i huge

boulder The mipu« i (rrked her to

Jirr feet and flung her uûinsl (fie

jade of the cllfs

All die ik-tp 11 fttUaw Needs'"

The u'ltgunj pupped with the

1 e 1 r e 1 wedged under the to route,

and Stanford leaped tn the ground

and burned in ArabfTfo

In n shaky voice he asked hi?

wife, “Muw did you make n. Belle?

Bette, you’re hurl' Ts yntir leg

bruken?"

kicking his îio with fuiy, >he

fairly screamed, Mt me? that tad

like St"? broken ?11

Later, Stanford met five mencoming up (if give him a hand with

cliaEn?. urn] rn|, k&s

.

“We came back to help you/

one nf them begunrhut Stanford

rut him sh*«rlH lkm

,J

> llie ferry,

l;mys? Any nU It left for US’*"

Stanford hadn't untie h over the

bitterness hi l"dl when hfcs i iim

ilv iind wu|fi>i.i wert: left stranded

above ibc Hole in the Koc|l Hegiftn rc* 1 A r.i 1 >d So. S tic w a*

1nile I \ u rc nr* rn-

lieretl her lmILieo ndm i .md w.l- .Ldumtdof hi* own til temper,

“ IAi rgy E lit tallows. Wo manuiU'ii fme Mywife here is ab the help :i u-fluw needs,"

*

A 1Lip(Pit [hjfll f*i H*'tt 1/d fji3— I fl'Fj JjllW 1 “ ^

Sumehnw, every Vupfl made the perilous

rlc.scanl -;d\-h !

11 fiagjf 661

Once across, the pioneor band faced full her

Iriibormu^ rrtftd huildinjGj: through mik ain-r

milts of tfltert, 1 ^ lrivil, and eroded rock After

uj n wemjL- of travel, t!ie\ halted and founded

thr ^clllrtnail tf Bluff, Uuli There had been

no casualties, and three babies were bam tin

route, tnn (be trek, nriginsilly rstimateil at

Tniti^ry pi rettcclioni fnrrii 1. II n 1 fuel .mhi:

iJjrures on a nist-nsd Wall in CMbetlral f-in-

Loir Bel knap and John Kvjiil- vi f. eve slit1

^port Amk mriuml bendy between

cliff- that rise limn-lmd* of icri hut >mnd

lejvf. than LeH Isrd rin the l iUiyoh llmjr,

sis week^p had laken them almost ^ \ months

L-lWliil f| h LI,

Like-u cdanl\ i i j 1 1 h I .

i

r. L, 3-Li i

-

i I i

i

Ui-jili/i-

shtdti nn ill1 tiFiis njHcfitlnr in for- idling; iU 'mJiluili . 1J11 bU' iii»w

rt'nrhE^ in vniinn 11 mik 01 r hr iiw^sa itw isuwflmirrk hwcli^Wli'fv hzv* hrtitpidit mt\fv v^ilut 1

. In tlth iMiLiUi-ti naJJuniil

monument in Ltl£ po.il twii ^rlir* 1 Ij.l i

i

in .ill Mil: [jztViiili^ U'.ir*

hlert iL: cbtDWf}’ in I'M full bmjcht, i Iti-

frit* w rN' lie a i

fciM ffcrp in thi iIi tij'- n Iwinw dir IPMcwt lifc^h iin h

DWilrft'tJ lit aiitliki: prolKirHim* Ity fc her immr n-itv nl rbc

^icinr m^f rni, twn dlmber* wave from ihc t&]> to .1 inm|imMriis

iwlow Thf awweiit dun i Lind* » liarrl+ lijJf-linui rlrnib

Anjp] pbuioHmfJl tn^Fk1 last it.u ifcfii tr;iee* I lie dr\ bed itf

Brtticr Crcek h ornhitetl thv *p*±n I town Lhi* ehljjji i Ip mi rr

i aurs-e liUJditd silt-laden mrreni* lHnl ihniLusk -t .1 ni I

-

grille butLn&tt and, durinc Ihr ojws, diuptd fci Inlcs natnri!,

l hru-cit orrli, CctilUnc? oE wind fMih- hi-*

| the nuattnuetL

Krrilniui dmMli\ Hide ifi i hi

kink w kl ff hr - m-* I hciufli1 dtj

f. !

in l he winter «r 3 8“ 9-30,.

Tii h 3 jLh (jlm-L- tame ;i handMurrain puHiter* about

i s tii

11' iff I Tn

|it-Liit it rujonv-

He«r ihi*> fundA 4 tertftblr

ulh-i =. k—(he iJeep, wifi Cd-it ii rlij Ki Her m ii: iiitmiiiyly

jri]|.'.L!---;j[ik' -inryL' Jkts they

found i mi- ddi thiu uiTered

hr>fie m 1 rL^chiiiJi L In* river

Blitfllinp .in u[K'riirm ihrunurh

ihe M liuh\,i!

tht1

>, cani

,

eil ii rum!

linwn thr < I'-rlf-ifrt'C slojit, Mtin river iJhry luitU a tall* andOH the cppuiulL- side tiai' kei I

alintlirr null tip the Uw of

Lht _ SChFemjI a liffA. Miclh lhe>

-orl U ii Ii V iffij-Vr 13m‘ ivnj,iofiH

11 -i^ -i I h c prre iptl tiu f, nx t

dm if 3Wi.ninpihMmm wJifrb

I'rrhkin lui= l-.rn^ vim c -V. i’p.i|

Awuy mi T-t erf tbt nuid's mt-t ;i

I c tc dr : i of i ) tL'ii r horses. 1 1

r

ItLUJc? Ilripn | '•Iti'iS till- UMjMH;-.

nw\ mm and liny* Irunti on ;ls

hlimua bflikia Incredibly. the

Mowpi tii“4 ism » w iiioa.

Arruy^ I he (.'frlumrllii the

trod k-d bciucuti him* tint-

-bind hiHllden *m which Lb&

finmeiT- -atM* lifrj iheir lmk~

li.iN imd nnmei Thctr duto-

^ruptiv sumy* tin Hi La- If it

Kjh k> .dhovri .1 remindi-i |n

riMvvl" visitors ItMhn liI : I i

mdopriitahtr frontier [urn

m

Luke Powell' W L~rrwa> |m IV-itI \V nutters

\\ i'

;

li I jl'I i up Li:ucl obscured much of the evi-

dence d{ the heroic pitssu^ In one sirm ii . u>

lr*ver-r .1- Mm htf, ifu 1 Mormon* attached

a rti+jd to the sKect rock wail \\V in'lw amoves

i buy hunt) rtal huh lr hr indde v. gpm wheels,

auiti holes they had drilled for pole* to support

a ruatlwm for thr outride wheels

tiV.iii-r* Vtnvist Swallow Huge Vreli

Jtjsi mirth n| ivik- Lr lu- Hi. k, rlw Ijkr Ls

ft1

1 1\i\ ihe muddy E«calanlr Itivi-r Bo ton

Luke I'm Well provided tKi.>> Jircrss liver the

quicksa ltd .it its mi

i

mh h fcis hxit plateau -roamshk ' rutLemen knew the uppiT rriirhv* of Hie

Escalante Froni the dir. 3 brtd tam intrigued

i its deep trilmin rii - FIflym il v i’ n * . I k bvh

'.ijLJi uiiJ Clear Cree k mi I he \ul

4, uid

Steven-, Cow and Kjt|i]f>rtr Canymi* drain

ins." the Watttrppcfcei Fold on the pussT

Now, boat l mi up Fiftymile l 'nrek, we just

squeezed under i*Tr^ ,r> Xsiiurifl Rnd^-'

which nrii ( -imred ISO feet in IhivL *hjji Ii.

however, the triahgEiIar wimtaW of La Gorce

An h (pug#* 4ft),, named tor the late? John Olivet

La Gorcc, Presidem and Editor nf the N.i

T son al OewrAphh Society from 1W to tWT.>ee 1 1 I E'f I high fill I LI \lh Lip - U rviV L- So f Ifr 1 A I f 11 *

fool panel of Inrhan pic tograjrfi.y htlfrvii) Mhe n thousand yMH old

In Cl fea i Creek the lake hi> eight feel deep

in the C;i1 hecItaT in Mir Ll^ ;t aten tfutt

il-nSuL recent* df-cL Musn Fspeple l had hiked

In to see il The previous year in ail its tajJfcs-

vrn cL vttullril Lilnry Thi-. t£»e wt entered in

the liuaLi Though it iv:is sflli mimtitficrnL f

misled the Ltrren ptm). the liny crystal stream,

,ind I he deliCijle moss and maiden hMr ftm on

t he red simd 11our 1 1* yrui>_ tofj. i lre numbers S

|iy the rising water-.

lOsplori'T E \invon'- rranfrrmrd the

Impression J hud gamed from the .in W*hiked to the fur end, splashing ihroLitih lt>t-

e.i| potils, pmiînu lo examine aquatic

i-realuri? oi drink from m cook swerr spiffnj;

Htri! 5iloWWt4ii$h Evall- niiTui il In -i

.licove Water trick Im l dimn inin an in\itih^

I

if

»

i_i J . V ittev mst wim-d ;t r Into- ol riri'ki- under

the owriklltij?: The Lrr^rtl iilrtive acted liku an

r ^rf h®stm *h ell ireflecimp th^ chirps of sweep-

ing Walel-pTX'cn lijit j the >w'cd

dCH eJidim? rsote- id canyon Wfeft^ We left

the niiiLUUurt! Shmiiiri J^! rdlict4hlly-

Tlicre k much to be Icanwrl ut rnuJiV |nv-

hiiduric pî in Uiimv ciinvonkind^. Art hizmlr

i

from the l 1 tiiversity of Dtah and i hr

vSiiêuni of Northern Arizona, tinilerrtmlmfr

whh i hr Park Sr rvi re. in 1^57 lieizan an ur-

urist purvey «tf the lnke-liL-d arru to discover

'I - n:ti ’ kivrn»t An'hc-.* l‘> W Riitu il

MonEi'. Nations [jfoub \pm* ,1 I c i .

Iv5 :

n wMJn «. !«<• j* .

Dlno^bj- juuL.Eiipn; Kriucn \n itdni1

, P^ck- ii « bvwd L#y the ptuthrdr*$ pji r. m E\|>loref

L’aiyim lime I hr paf h-i of reptile? living im mlllkFpi year* .4p>. Pnnis. more

diiiu 4. loot wide leading actdm the rwcfc wr-rt- moile h> n r Firm>-..;iur i or §,1 ixii »-

- ,mr * -.iin lire nr hiihl Icet PtalrnMalPpfrfc *4JHtwCl ti mii> hltve heed die lit! Kiiyedtai

dihof^lir. Iti in. Itfttrua u.rt^rriU^ itkeieTiil lent lillfl tf #hjfb hflVt lierr ilnnu'eivil Clfl

the KsLS'njn reservation, A wnlltT dinoiaiir Jell rhe seven -itirh imrk* grnrtg up die »lah.

ix\i they could before U was submerged.Hvi- years later my wife and J had

witicbi-d it I/nivrrrity of Utah field party

Gsrtv.iti! ji cliff dwbUSng in a high akovein Slick Kuc k Canyon- abnut Jb mile-

upriver from the Atmth of 1 he Escalante

—meaûnn^ and mapping, pfi'kin^ andbribing in: storage cists, teremmuLil

klviLF, anil Living mom-. ami droppmiKt heir limt- inti j numbered Ijags-

“The IhrJinTifi who lived here aboutA.D UFO are tailed i Hi Atia&axi—Navajofor the ‘Ancient f Jiuv-,'

"-

. c iI I loyd Slinr

ri'rk, I he field dim r ml-.Ji

Remnants nf

aJIuvud terraces .-^hnu that the stream

level was higher at that Jinn?, .ind Use

v alley was probably covered with fiekb

oi com, beans, and squash. 1”

We passed the evening In a imi with

bronzed ymjtts archeologists, sirtîriftiind

swapping yarns, while Fkyd sorted the

day'?. dfecipterie>

A atom? them were arrow hted_s aI 'tali i ilmn drill attached tn a rred shaft,

a ptere of soft cotton cl nth1 .string made

of human hair nod yucca fiber, liny comi 'i di-, part nf .1 turkey^featbpr garment^

foil a sOtc-l J sindftl that made me won-der Li' the huge hands and l i-d : had ?ccn

tn puLrniiiyphs cm a canyan wall were

rralh ex aggera irons after all.

Bn-ijf Ducks a.1 Onte-lofh Hetrenl

KartIn r upriver, Lnkr, Moqui, andForgotten Canyons were especially rich

in prehistoric dwellings In the first five

mile.' m Lake i anyOntthere tire more

lhan three joeeri Tilt March, 'Ji2 4 National Gi;iK;icAi a

ft[t canuiineH a pir-

l u r l fit

;

in \ n nûi s Etc 2 lTO fee 1 1

1

ho v r ilic

Htrrntn an MoqUi CiLnyUrt VW -tupped

rmht pnlo the same spot, fmm the decko| tflttr (.fifty,

Dr Jesse Jennings pf i he- University of

t/taJl, thu project directin'. had laid meabout ihv esriijiLK rfiseoVr rv nf ;l 21 i-roum

Anaiam1

1

lieMm m .i Forgotten tanymaalcove i pa etc? 7 2-3).

J

tifipas?ahle fid Is above and below had

billed il M.rl," hr saidu\Sr chanced or

an it i l bent h Lind -a nd-Urr trail pn Led info

tin rock, bypassing the lower folk.

-Most ol tlie rnof& were vidl in place,

a aid we sound whole pottery vessels. Twoperfect red bowls still had scraps of Food

in them W> turned ihr plate l.3e£ancr

House, because on I hi- cliffs Jibfcvc there

.eit piaoLEiaph? nf three men bt-undkhirig

n8 weapons and shields. This place hud

>i, h i v i r

,

rj qittirtvr of n mittion

frtinhuw trout vttsvmir from it ( ff>

ti n it frvp+fn 1 1 tmnin f Pn u mtLU „ /r rt

hrftnr. f'ttmifii nmuntrd tm tkp hr ft it

of the plt.iiiv and fu rnrg the frtil .nrinpppd

thisi picture At l hot tt hritxdful of ihr

finî ilivgk Mircin ti the drrtp. Lmt ttrtir.

(ri;^rvr|Ocfrifiii,

/i ituithai, htr,, under

t'mrfr with ftu V. S, Buemu of Sport

! t s Jifr ivs ^ t ut Wildlife . xra t tvrt'd

million trout tain thr i^kc.

rVT4C«HHn Hi 4Hli rk^ Hiin-n ijiKHiib C

not been disturbed for Mime s'vi'n i cnEurii:-11

•\b n«r ii'1 iMKib enlist'd Jihmy a rnilr l.ndnw

1 1 .ill?: Crussin ii, is l hiu l 9 * nsj lest from Withweup

fwiir Lin; 6f. a short side tan von culledi

Lost Mikf-si, ] foejnd lhal water h*nJ covered a

rookery where 3 hart iwe se^n rt ores or preat

blue hemm Now, a kmt bird took ia11. its

3iujUl wins?- heaimg m ditinifiud retreat.

Jud n- the herons oj Hidtf, ('rassiru: mueoiu\ *<> are the largest of the rapids in ClipCanyon A iitacid laltescftpa tLppczircd whereI hart watched kayakers- ride white ivnier

mat Birthmy Creek.

Vimther Unrlnuirk I milled '.n- whirl wTas

irfr or Robert H Miirst-ur^ jdant dreckx. aban-

doned In irjtdtlream after the fafltm of the

tifipftrseer > ydd mi hi he; scheme in HlQ! Sevit.lJ hundred profipettoti bud fringe work ltEi n

CJoii CimytifL '13 il- urold

rhfiWever, proved km

difficult so obtain. imd thi- men drifted awuv.B

Millmrt* of Fish limited \$y Airdrop

The biy attraction these <ii\yr ]> Ibhilig

i i.nik WnidiL vi'hci hiu- ,i ni.ir nut find fern, it

Hall t ro.k$inj; (map, | Line inn totrl me that

SO percent of those who launch Ihrir I mats

between there and llstc sF miles iip-tr^cm,

romE mainly to wet :i line

iC44^iMGHn ij * I I.

A tie -old wdverssrifcs, Mini tuxd wairr. ua^e a mulebut niumitnilh baitle in Glen Cjrn tHi be

i

ttnin, thr liquid rmlni r ri 1 111 rtiu T'oiir years

knyulM nlipfHNi -amk dr-orr- fretted irjst i.imsi-

rtsfc piehli [Ugh nJiiivi- tbr river•runners lauiued hl

IIIW irkliMidnf rave, upfjtTfHn from HuMl'fi Vsuaame.md Mudr 1'emjptr rnrtti> Powell bJuk ani the vw-duc!! bm atm the wielding river, and rifipkgr tn iJhe

Very lip nJ -in Since Inflvravr (filwvn When ike Sake

f LMft Jil l I the/ 7> feel, the eovwi Urti- a l]J vnn i - 1

:

Thy r i unit ;irr [ruff I' too Jfiiiuh for casual

I seers. hut tlir ailing ^ ^client In

in rli.- S*.ju>- iif f (ah .iji'l Arlinna lonsJdct

Lake I'ourU a mumr lichen ark) mulr.tidn u

bio I n meal station al s<i muruitfu ti

Ei-cry epnnff since ihe dam di&cri, l lie hike

has been slocked with irnut and larêmouih

Because of thr dUtanre from hairher

and ila ureas Li-ng'h of Hiu hike* they ,uv

dropped frornanatrpl.iiiefuti'd until four SQtV

pilfon Links. T saw several such up-rainin'.

Each djiir, the tow-flyine V u- marie a

wide circle and relearn I its l".nt thru nub a

chute iii thr aircraft1

:? bdly In Is itocoricb

iS^rl^H) fmucrling rombpiv trutii streamedlt*i feet rl riMr'n m%<\ the lake fpaêt f>a^. In

inurda - million trout were released. Tfi

my astonishment, few died

Hoiterick Stout of thfc Utah Bepartrrserii of

Frsh and liame told me Niter “We scouted

I hr drop areas tu pick u|

^ ihe dead nuns. but

wr "r.it only ;i quart hoilleful altogether"

*'Haw fast do they grow?*1I isêdi

‘

'Thill depend.* un tmui> shin.- -avaiLdili:

iViod, i mnpnl.iticjtl from it her >poeies_ Water

tempt rat are \t lhi> B#t ol ihv lake. Wi are

uncertni n . IVobably ll hat 1 1 *s^ht inches a yeai

We did -' irnr tUh research mjfwtws jerry 71

Prc-(..ulnii]l>iiih pjL'hPgrapb’i i^r Ehri«- men v ill-

wr4|H3 as and *bt*ld* tmfrinni thr name oJ I-V-fianre

Hriuie, ia J i'i- r. i. .in An asan vidscc in Fiffigoî Can-fc tin Atattiiltlltrti \*'t i

) ULU’ Lhe i£v. dL-

itogfr liiy UtidJfvlurlHfiJ unoJ OulviHii ty uf L'Luiii jirrlu -

"Ii.hI- 1 :- >ii- tn i-:=-i! ! 1 1

1

:i i i jjhr nu.rs ;u:-' ii-

!

ri>i-r- rtmumed IniitM |wll*fy -tsB Milfood. Sfietilbb tiicL-uld.br thui dimi^bi In ihr

I li Lit 13Lb drttEAin iijrcctj lli-r- \nLi.*.Ln— KiiV4.ui for

thti-H AnniriH —to ffw wn-mhiVarrl

U ate r ol L-uki.- * 'i,iwd ! , rblnjj into Furaut tpti

Camilla, will nor fjrwrl Dtlw Hr u-c*. In, 9 will

^rinii ho.Lit i^ within walking distHmr; Urn*

lh, I narrow diHi-rwai's Ihfll ret|iiire ûopinjcibrhtw i

IflflLJ hflVir b«fl li iJrVtfe U:-e*r 1 h\ (fee PtîWo poopfe

to -Ei*i i »ursi ti-e hiYinkT'T

r \£,« - n h|i f

“It

*.• + qnpli- 1 - i Hi •

Huhhlt^ dryîni la^Wern horidsturm mu] sfciuldd

-ilnii or metric Loir ^riknap dvffinftitrRlC- hemIlcfiajiCE Rntue wdm-r .i m.iilc tt.i, aJ

73

HpFJbui

jni L". -* • l

!* h 1•

1 y|

kia -" . gr—w 1

H 1 - IBM* * * " *"i

Lake Powd Wakrwin to Deserl Wonder>

« “iin -hk\.i\ inr instance, thiii gtri'n «mnfisb 1

shaving cream They also find peopIt tempt

-

inz. A-il washdd In the shall uwr eath morning

they nibbled at my ipcs (pnge

From Halls t up.slre.imi to I Tile,

n. uncij at'ier Csisi Hite, tfrt prosfMKtnr whnsoured nl’ilen Canyon puld rush in Ififi-L the

srorpi.

1 wall* are lower and |es * speclactjliir.

although some side canyon scenery reieuperhi

Hue wsisii’i wherr f had \mi seen it .Not

only hurl it -.nuuhl higher (pound, !nit ^ ht«ri

rauved seven rsiile- upstream This wasn't

diffinilL slim it coto£iifted of only u. few shucks

and a river-f^ging jjULiyh. Kvcti Sl* new

locution near thfc mouth of the ['in 3 Devil

Rivpi |named by the Powell expedition for its

high sill content 1i- Irtnpuriir} Wlven *dt fills

Ehe area, Bite will move lignin, bei-omim* a

fill I- slid pt-rl m jnun trifle* * i 1sw hsi rean 1

Htmgrj Conic Seeks Pic in the Sk>

We gassed the boats at Hite and soun

rmred under the new h ride

e

P just .ibove the

Dirty Devil Irtmp-.pagE 55 >, It is the only high-

way = pEtrs at'

r

;,7 -l l.i- L > > 1 nln between Moab*

Utah, nnri lhr rLtm* 3 55 air miles apart

Here the gorge charmer it name from Clen

t anyon to Narrow i anyon* and seven miles

1 . l r 1 liiT u|i, 10 Caiarai I Cam an Pnwrll riruii-

listed tlii- turbulent 40-mile 4reti h with diifi-

cull > IvV

n

l ip t'i 1 re elitemi k Catarac I Can ;•. an

,

he ran fihorE ot food. One day he found Billy

Hawkins, the cook, pretending 10 use a >es-

tftnt Billy said he wanted to find the litt Ltuflu

arid [cinfftude of the neared pie

The Vi'lILlt hy m»w Waft lurbid We WOtlUl

soon reaiiSi the end of Lhe Jake and tneei

rapids ourselves* and I wondered how Lir we

could met up Cataract Between high riiLurf'l

cliffy, million- u£ older than Ihosv ut

( . li-Ti, we mu nded Milie < Yaps Bend, named by

Powell fur itslfvj

4£t number* uf ctjies kind

pintmrbs and towvr shaped rock* " Then

w1pa - -in i SIicep C aflyqn tthd .1Tv< 2 :

1

its C isle- rn

,

and nosed into rfic mouth of Dark ( anyone

Tlie sedimentary rock shni, mud it up it* tn

menduu^ waih varied from Êale blue to pink

[oppflisstej With its t'bn htroln and pncalite

water, itl i n\i tiflfi/4 bathtubs." and wuterfn]ls 1

it tame ,j> .1 ilclighiiul surpribe

Opr map showed Hark 1 anyon afigâuidnp:

iOrfldd mile* eastward into nranaLLni and va-

luidium country Branching Imm it were îdr

t F-

canyuiii hy Lhe dozen lj?an-Ttii n Black Si •.»•»

.

H urse Postiife, W'wJdtti^htie. We i ould huve

spent a month ixplbriu^ them

ftack an Lake Potvcll, riol far beyond Dark

Canyon, little whirlpwh beirayed the pn --

e h cc <'4

*s li 1 1 itHjmed 1 « k T lic w .1 L 1 t tv^ iLiw

1mi The lake had met thi river

I with in as^tironee l.-orn of laeperience

in readinji 1 hi- rivur. wm an esh liftraring*

almost j hvthmic murse (jeEWceit bO'iri -. gas

with lamurisk juni wHhm .mi L|uuklmR white

be^cheN Then arciund abend, oppu^lti- Siaw-

dk Canyon, wc saw rapids. A broad sand bftf

squeezed the leaping laaling river aniline

the mighty west wall.

Alter making cattip, wc dnnrinl lift1 jacket.-.

Bind Hl'vuLmI iiur sail artentum Ln ihf jny u\

runnirif tbt rapids in the Sport Yak, Jhtfiadn^

tiljsLi’ea.m. ttr nbftniloncd nurse U'-fts to the

doWnblri'nii 1 torrent ,i3- vve buttled to hold .1

safe course between lurking rocks. Whcu i hr

river won and dVerlumwl wc reveled mI hr slrugslc to keep our bead* Above water

Fin ally, after several hours wc flopped u\

liausted on the beiuh- The =iurgiiig poiver of

the river sud the mnjevii of the cliffs above

U-. suggested our insifpiihcance. but filled >with the satisfaetioti dud from ?udi

intimacy with t hr beauty uf uaiure

Veiling I've* S(Hi Npw Blciic^ for (fid

Silt must inpviuilhly fill Lake Powri

(hoimh not in nur umc. The lilens Fnwell

knew nfr llJ re LccEy coin Bui fhousiiiiid^ 01

-iqujtTc mill-- til dtsi rl tvuritJeElaml.hllherti'

M l-> uifiv a few', have soddurily be-

I I hint- available M all.

J have mlkirtl to mr?n w ho knew the river

before the rfftrn m bmll. men who madeihcif living by gitiding visitors on [mat 1 rqi:-

Ehruu^b liten Canyon* Onr, w'Ji>- fought the

iJam, Iuni 1 JianpedhEs mind and spoke eflthu-

siasti rally about \jnkv Powell Another, his

fortune invented Mi a new manna, readily Ltd-

m lit i'll. 'Td willi nszly \a>o it all if C^lcn Cunyun

CLiuJd hr jiut hsEik tliu w ay it wa*”

Hut mi young compAfllims, who had never

-euti CleJfi Canyon before* viewed it ihnut^li

the fresh, enthusiastic eyes of you lb.

“Maybe die dam shouldn't have been

Imsic remarkerl iliijr/ Belknap, ,lbut ttY

snighl% hard to mu urn Glwn Cum no nuw that

Fv« HW3H Lake Powell THE E N n

FiiiieiEi^ HVftlkers In fl plorc yet imtTllier be hiL a dull loW flmni twLi I > \'.L“1 mU'U'Fil -r-.1inicn*

i ,i ri ! ( m 1 Kirk C’nttypn riic jôrur penetristss uttsiHiilcd nmniry. uînsfi Lake PowfJI u

f

|Tw '

"

reochei os sweef.'. mnre und mate will di^CEivwr iti haunting beam y **M*i\mm -

By PETER T. WHITF.

I(lustrations by DEAN CONGERBerth Njliimai Geographic Stuff

L

wk * ^ 5“™ ^

*rVr m.f, jr **«r a

«k . tr 1

FROM a MIMS Hamm l her neck hung;i tins i Liv image nj xhe [jjfd Buildlm

encased in reddish sold and her ^mile

was Infinitely sWfect,, belching ¥et for alt I

knew she was hkUng .1 submachine nun. or it

batch (ft band grenildes-

Wf shared it slim pirogue from l^sis ;n. n igs

Khe mile-wide Mekong Ww to Thailand

Bfiweift L]^ m ‘Jh-d |»Lsket^ thr Lifl\ said dir

Would uJwe to market in the Thai town of

Thai Pluiirom Cucumber-.. Cabbages Arm-lang iish called jrfqrhpjr

I rem etn be r ed en I i n g t H e rI

pinc b nn ! H I n

Him I :lS>m rein E'en I nj rrij w\va\ a 1 li.n1

1

> ! L< t1

major hud bih! me That ihi- i isinu iei

-

ui _ r rai -

up here, in Thailand* Northeast.. wa* fed

with esms and e\p 3<isive< h roujtht -&£ th*

Mekong in burnt* sarh ns t h 1- often b> just

>ucli ut'ntlf IjirJii-:-.

t . linn A a it Wurks Tttft VVuyi

For 550 miLr-

1

tn: raver forms our border

W 1 th I ; 1 os,J

"

sai * 3 I be maj or*'

'an (

1

11 nfor* lj Mattel \

much of ImIds is controlled by s nmmij lists

I- . cry day those boîs hack and forth byt hr hundreds Wh-i .li

•

inspect ibvni i!T

^Thfey bring in not only weapons hut

radios, propaganda leaflets, and in.structlrjn^

for the terrorists, And they ferry The agents

who direr 1 the insyrr^-tioti—

'I Iuji men andwomen, firsl enticed to Harmi and t^kinî nhni'd tin rv, and llu-n h?n| bin k lutnakelrma-

ble. li i:- l:oi kJ that Ament anis air he 1 r to htilp-1 *

Thailand, m turn. Was helping I hi: I’m led

States by providiDg base* for American wari-h ncs t bat daily He?

W

mis*i 1 ms over cmbai 1 1 ed

Vkd \iiiLi In announcing this <tlHciaJI)\ onMarch 'hi1 Foreizn Vhiiistn. :n Banpikiik

>;:id IhJil I hi- : 1 Thil , 1 n il r; I mHuri hiWardbrirtitiiic the trouble in VitH N'ani to an end a>

soon ns [wssiblc

^11 far the l row hie 111 Th . a I and h ad to 1

! nwed"

Il-i- t nrmnmiisr prescription for uW pft

librratiojk,^ Southeast Asia style: Build tip

sloras of food and arms m the jLmgle. Estulj

li.'ih iriiJii ill: camp ior gtiarntla^ Amlm!|.nilkT iind iimiy pal.rols I’oerre villager- to

nime to (urirmâjida I: :i villiLi’i-

leadrr won'l pi a} aJimg mrarm |inn or kill him,

preferatih right btfftfo the e> e> id hi* |Jcople

In L7 months nearly 100 Thai officials, teach'

prs. dill .Llbd pofkemrln Sim I I .l

sanateid four tune- -v- mnnv a* the veaj

in Mifi 1 1 "i <ntice "M 1 halt been ir.n Tni n

.1 Slllgh: wet 1

in the tan- of t.hi:- ihrt'iil Em Thuilaitd—the

tmifiliamtlly imtej^nd^nt kingdom jii ihc hub•i urhea.Hi a.-li mL.si^ h pngt 1- ibe ! litLed

Glides increasingly supplied its "Wri ,11111-

gu err 1 1 bn rnedii me scmie 4p rniltmn dollars a

yenr in eromirnit .lid, ier.bnti iiuss and iVacc

1 i

r1 1:- i-iJuhtcrJ^. mori? and mnn* niilitafy

men to train thi 1 Thai armed fure^

T n Ihi n c kok, r hi; Tb ai 1 .nj -<itnl , a 1 1 1 _: 1 1 offu-iiil

mill mr 1

lb: n 'ifiSfJiers, after stirtirkinjia pier

tin encampment wbtne the itlshe* ol die

rn liking hrei were -.till Wiirm^ liiLfl dLsi nveftd

1 be bimu^fil dog* mating the garbsuze He said

that ihh was signffiCont-

Why?|LWt;y, we Tiny dn not em dogs Bui ihc

\ letn.imeîi do“

He |i,iu*wl, Inytd with silvtif dagger, andwohfi nn; Ôfte mud nut lureoriie uniluU

^ -r _.j

aTarmi^rl. H&tu 1 ai

.

l n ^ tmitiud ldsiErai.! ;ir^ tifu

upw in the XordaeîsP Ahotit 1,500 of i.henin

opep^ting hi buputy of .’5 nr 5 ri They have

thousalkb "i . mpnt Infers, ant] so, umjui -

imnahSy, we biivt' a nmciu^ probleitt Kol llj-

will hee P we ar*B comiuic lo grip 1: with h

Believe meT TtiajliiEid is rill! UuIIi.l! ta hi-

an or her N 'sel Xam 1 r

Hosy Rjmjtfcok Thmbs With Traffic

Traveling the length and bremith **l 1 hai-

JantJ, J would 4g,im ami again encuUnter the

specter of armed inoirsimi and insurmtioii

in oiliar horror area -—

m

ifw notih oexl to

[luiTLui in the ^ mitl'i nust to Mabiy*la But

w id king aliinn ihc bouievaith nf hustling

Bftngkuk—and rioting in an nuiilour nife,

under a shockine- pink umbrella I tiaitnl If

hard h* believe tlud Thailand hud in> pri^b-

lems at aJl r beyond Lhose prompted Ij>’

rfLTTif.i.vni pfB5peri:

ty

Surely the nsoM -.rriktm: of thc-e mjlh ihc

CxU.bc rant ruoIPKr Lraflu \r one of llw uoi.îrd

cTftssm lls, aEon 2 l\j

E cb u.lj i] ri RbarL I c a n'ic -1 ] 1 is-l

tn being tfjiMeued by 11 Wor Mtratte E he

voting Ind> al ihe wheel llr ln d n hejfcuj.liug a

•nflEe thill1 my annoyance evaporated

"ThiiT> exaeUy what 3 mi' tut" >jiid my

+ tot iwpfr i>ii lIieh uhtii^y l>onlerttiniti we tine, nuiluipi

i

'"Re tHirr nn Laitav”K al' 1 1>%al G baoKAPJi id . \ u(L 1=1 . rna•inH rhudalfrl lldfiilr^s t*- Fteolum, J ujje

,l |if-l '•

W K-ilk a Mi nr?

f heerhll ,J> itit I hill 'piri!, t’re.-hh [i.liiiU-; |iam.-nLr dr>'i n l i i r hi , 1 1

1

1 rimii 1 .nr.

-I -lash lhd.ri‘iih>r* rKiiinsi 1 J 1 r Imiwn tarrh. In tli^ 1 1 rn I in» ElA-maJkc r . illtlSftilltjdt Is- i 'Iiuiue

Mai. jDO hmiilics fEshlnEi the; pa|jer sunshaiSc*. \fiy$t Thai live in !LUcb small srtllcmriil*,

.irmmg rrce lirbK fishing l-hi! wutcrwsiys mid often iiracULirg hdnihcimfis un Hn -m-:

; 1 *i 1, S'Ki ET •

a 3L \1 #

n

j -

»t

1^ '

IIWill)(

1

rk

l ‘AL' hJ/-I

ft*^ 1

1 K \ .1 » 'fc-

rm.

-‘U ?r

! T

I rich cl Ir'FELail When I luld him ibiTUt ti later "1 mean what 1

?,

been ba|i|tti:dng lU'-'L’ in Bangkok! Ij ifteen yvur 1

? ;tk!i ymi

n«W saw o woman driving a ctir And I bat ems^huJ with

llII the traffic and the new buKdiftgtf— 1 0 year* uiyj there

svdh jli

«

i ]lj3ij there bal paaiipj orchard? and bttVc 3 nut trees,

.end rice fields and bufFaloc-

I'rir that ETiiiiier,where went the klauit* ns y^teryestt, alt

those colArfid ennui?, crisscrossing the diy, iFwjjt biui madetravel tipenl* abroad burble about Rdii^kob as t]i<? Venice of

the Ear l* "Wc 1- .

l-1 a lumdrad of them," said I

1

rail i.

Onggetl t aiTiaU Ciw Way to Mreeti

Not Jill ihe< 4umls were pure dclighl „ In btraire: nm every

-

one could Jdte a ctejggvd Hunts But UfWi when most of

them li.nl boon BIM» to widen mads or to make new ottCa*

didn't evrrsbad} complain Jibuti! flip - l''gpd raute?

That very morning the city had opened tin arc him; "My-

r-Vrr" for rar- r in lake Che pressure "IT rnduiuiiri jiinctkiii,

where i\n iMi mated fc.Wffi vehicles jiaêd tlujing rush hour

Niriirhy, in the £G-degfl£E heal, workmiEtt \ mured ednerett

lur turn foot bridges for pedestrians

But who could keep li p with d I the new cars and molor-

cycleis nr with all tbeê people tmuriog Into Inwh from Til

\11 1tvim e -

r q 1 1 1 1 i (i me a dott all

tile fore spur ns** The capital

o! Thai I.e in I Ikil I 'A ;t'. arrjuMi l

ihr world I ro nt Now York

£ biy. was now a favorite

-tup im aKtbt-ri, r l- r j nu fti gh f ^

M'utr thriM 4 jnrtl^* Airline

ij ixi dnw i l at Di pji Muan _ Ai r

ptirL half an hour away by

super highway,"A year uô Bangkok had

J, UK i hold nmms up la inter-

mmimaJ hurnti HBindkrds

and b\ the enc3 «i tin: mo ntht*

well have 5,000." said Mrl >ha rm n orm I rile Fi ua hm iih

n| 1 he jmern mental Turn

t.*, L t ) rîiis i iat ion ofTha i F ,nn i

“iYrhup* wi* have built tom

ttu±n> hotels. I've last count

of them ah Wc don’t even

iry to count the night rtub*"

Most numerousamong the

v i-

1 1 1

1

r - Wert 1 hr Am^ncaik^ on leave fmm Met Nam"More than UUuu a month,* said Mr Dliarmni" ti. “But

1 h i \t. h re’T, > 1 1 u k 1 1

1

. sW „ B. re ht a vail able " H e smi 1 c: clhlTo s

scenes!1

' Thai nfficiuLs liavt.' a cheerful way with tMtip

widely known but ne>Tr, ntver sprlled ciul ufiSrinliy

\ not her na.h tamflist inp -Larri wa> the extent of the

1- S milltjary effort to he F] Thiiiiainl fi^hiihi? Red menai:e

in addithm In M tho-H* American^ fmm Siiuili \ set Naru,

here to enjoy a few dny> of rel.Lvabnn. and scores of mil il ary

advisers, ?nmc iS,0QQ L S serviefmen worr bu^y. wrth the

building fit stran-LUn r-nEfb and comimmi cations netW'orks^

and tht mainlenain t* of yuppi e depots

SI

H* Mil -choked khfnjc h I ! •:

liaru Bar.jrkiik' sislflir « Ply

luififf - ci pnheemem to cn-ntml

1 1 . iftlt Ht ii im.ih from

a IOuj IjLirtfe, imirkti while

TL'iHtn^ts -sbiip i ?ne t tht

VeiU re ert the i^tr flwtifknk

t«nvtrt> mjiffcy cat oils into

-Erc-rL- i • r ib ever i[irrra:dn(!

lihnfei mi’ dut^mubik'.-.

VVat^r sprites lihanp no < h

r

Hi no I "h raya fSiver huiru ui

hwim lib> soon ai L I iry walk

Frc i ri E -yjLri I w ;iF l1 n- lsi vcl r fum

lly-Hfê liiLlhs.]h i ri" 1 1 Imirb

fresh Iy w.'^tied 1 au nd ry Krwf-

tofj .witenan brinp in Banii

kvA - uvo IlIi^ ihîi! tih.inm

NrUMHI^

NORTHii r. B:n* Pti4J

Luan^Prahancr,L H&a

vi FTM** HaFig'S**

fciprvq KhmiJinrj HammTonkin

Vshh

-:U T i Kin

Sm

Wl I irar-

*- nri f->ai

S-iMbfi P-. .j- n&ns Qi'h bTfiai PhifiCTfl

r±a. *

l £hj i* ‘P.kin

inq H(i.

MUrnar-cii fiijn tine

KriwyM urnTiTtihraln

P.hgi

-Ir* ^ûi4k _ ftSf

?'•' s;rTFj

Nsthw 5awir.*y Cfaiyufciiiiir*

^4«]' '

I Ji’u.MIl

- *T. iSi-iu

*¥# *-S hl*k>.on /

njaUhaEiiin^ ,4R .Itch nr- .1 i ,!f*J±LMI i *flHn r>vl

b in Thrt.

IfwjSt!! *">'***ia«P*WttkÂ ir'poft

fl§5fCbar

M*‘ ...• i 1

1

*5lPrt"ha bill- fir : i r»q *

*lH Pi Fhittâ^ .i

a1^4a iChflttHlbtri ’

\ U ,.'L

\ I '-t-r- Ng-np*

- KaT Mt .Jl-T.

PWkU, A’Tivtn Kemf>Of <g Sf

TTtuo*

NAMKtO&L&

*r-rf Riot Aiii

llIrtacTcrf:

AllCk? 'irin C-wra fruc !. an ’akrt-

!fi huizHjb '.iNn*. j 1

Hi Tirfl^Hsti T an

1

. :~ - dji n

E?€ N n Ri

Mj^K Pf.wm0! A Situlh Chimt

ScuGulf **r Siam

* iuraZ. Tho.'

ban Eji Tr- ufirrferb 1

.

.JhgeLcSfliHj7**'

|: fihi!p

Fh <jir r

Jji'lrad

jrjfc m\ nwmo jweat

I fm:n jv.:- uÂflfr ^£41 Hrt,™ r^QLHjtri

f KWIC"rflDf l££44

jjujur: rCFr.lit ^T7 WiWJ

&ti¥#wupmi‘J.L“4i.Lh!wa B

.

VMjyj!? A*PtM7?,

MALAYSIA«

' FWtS <*7 TttV UiV-T. mm*warm anqwmjw

THAILANDRrit'uHEY ihn r -hiLrlh- like of feu*,

- ihi> tropical fefedfltanffottsied

l lleti - and pJjlim Iflrtd with menutiering

rive** unA-tdiuiIi Hupjttirti a Buridhkt monjj-tcr} h 1 r rvd rj L5 DO ill h uil * : Li 1

1

ta NeW i

:

dustrics Bum in RanpkitkT ibc growing* "jpi-

1ft), ! »u t four ou! u|

five Tibia J are ELirtu

fT-i, for Jim. iJicy

vndrh L-iick

iimi fish Unheardvisit cmIi oslier

UftfcqUr ipiSoulii

(last —nnrt c jJlerl >]me—

W

tM

never colonkrcl by Kunupeanv Friendship

with the I'niltii Sinter btr^LLT] In iS-ii, when

1 hr UVD rmr.iiiiis riffled Jl irnrfc treaty, she

V . S j Bfit iti the Orient in fh-e I. $Air Form faefan unljiu TIilu btu.f- fur opera

r ions Jipins* tar|Sds m Vi-rt Nam

AH* A: rid I4+I'L=1A3'UIN: H.TWl.fH

00 pertenl Ehaa hIsm Chi nor, VkllWtnp. -r um;i. ( "hinirjc .a id Ei j

I

s^r-

a Mil'll- Li-ri.1. feUiLllhsim

\ [ i 1,1 1 lit! nf Jl 1 i rl- L LI - 3m S ( SePI- tjdJj - tt I ! si i Si ^

:

Hirer 1 1 tij rt 1 1 r .L ctdiftnlfced rnrii ilrV^nJ In rke

KttlibcT lin, h lir^, nmrEi, n n rl leak bJmi ncpcFrird

SI ,V| - rd I r I I Kh: JY:i 1

1

„ L -k 11n 1

11 1 ,-i« "iS, I US J, i^jeL. i

i

f liiimii Mai. led; S u^hlilii, rubber.

Hub t i-I S i1 1 j

I

1

1

1

il\is1 A^tji, Thailand brute s

agalvi’L IhrLtiaSoiw from ^twuieiit* nriabSiors,

Ck i rn mia tmt (tuerrilb axi5§ her borders wii h

arEfi* fnr Imiirgeiite—^sedallj atoms dir:

- 5 1 1- mali: N Ev k-LULLE Ris er frontier v. [\h ZoJ£l£

kdi’l S hi nil, only fldka away. broadcasts

infhiiniiitiiiii^ prfipwiuuiii.

Beside. snenr. V £. airmen were

the bifkl flfo/.i 1 h bft&tS ibu! Limn ln;il

mo?i or she bombing mi&Utiiif against North

Vir[ Nani Thailand up to i l±. nett in r lie

deadtle^ struggle of the sEslie^

Most of Lhi 1 hurnt-d jft Li|4r tourist- in

ImiUHLMLi Itangkiik s-cftwrl nom nt rhis. Thi'.v

ivdrritrl that there w.Lh vn nnji Ei to1

The tirartd Prince, th-: Tetnple m Dawn.Elic UsiUetlpriCrf 1 fate Tcmpfepfttie KnnsraJd

Buddha— nil teutpled nui" *aid a tour

I^Lider from i im ntuLti. < hie ofMt liLdii'- .vaink,JA(> r hut wt took so itmns plrttms! L'hfltN

ivh.it iv t- vr come for. tti ba\e something to

rumember”

I- ark MtiL' morning I ; <“i c rn 11 a hetitt excur-

sion ta the famous fforLtinp market aOfuSS

tile wide Hmy Pbrn^.k tin; river dividing

Bangkok from her ?btcr city, Thon Burl.. Tbe

"'SfinUlLQliJiiz Siiirri " by W Rilherl riri,

N.vnoNî. GKOGRiKmii , iVbciwfy'i F'ML

river w.is calm 1'he boat passed into a ThrmIhiri Wring, |i;l<[ m enery ihai until reremJi

bud been typical ui Bangkok tcm—wooden:

1 1i j * uP ’ill". I ,a : 1

1 ! i : i_ - . - :

-1 . : •

;; 1 . i . : > i _

Icttfed greenery everywhereIn tbrn lin;i ,> ivurncn wndur^ broughi 1 hr

fltail> shnpplup in the dour ut ibr Jdonu -u1>

h*M I *irw i fv—vtge i l 1 1 1 1

!

i rui \ t ire. rharr u J&l

( pnagts 76-* i t "J acre w i- wo i p .uu| - pittiHg of

red streaks uf betel mire Lind here were we,

chiirnmEt the- iv.uerwiib our tm tor Uur wakejostled a imman and her floating notion shop;

her ra^nr bbniu- nearh went nverbnard

t Asked that wrIWp, and I ai>> Ji mi tfofL ITmwmiraM; âid, “'It in very bard to -ta> ileur."

Ctgareltes C«iS 1 liree Eloun' Pav

We clattered kiln a narrower klone. pa-1 a

ge ner.il >( ore on stib -. A tilde int 1 w .,vn jj i:n t-

inn Lieumri ric desmm on 3 coffin in a coffin

-Imp. We |mkt:d iitmnd ^til] aiLuLhcr earner,

info bedlam: a wider kla^ h butsDcoipstedwStli htaiis ihin a pf»litcmun hud to direct

sraffiL' fruTn :i barei1 (page K0| Betuthf S'iUrif-1

boats tied up .it am eimrnuu- biueaar, oil'cr-

] ri \i undt-r urip Nrui .d! die kim kknuL kery 1 had

seen ?i altered alonfi NVw Read, over in Bangkok— blued and enuran d -dver

ailed niello ware, tâk elepbjint>, datw.ire in

sr^ld-coUirerl Thai hmlneJ was pinned ngabut a dn-plny of jvblmitJi r

Lisa Thai silk. A lady said+iiHnwr expensive

Slw 'A iL- i mm Mnisysk 'What a lumtîln,"

said another Jady 'itume :n Kansas City it

wiuild be ftnir timen hs much I mujrim', ;sM

wflven l»y hand

"

That, of c ti iirst* _ wtis precisely why it iva- :i

bargnin. 1-ibur wus nut eîinnuivr here, ma-i hinenj w\l-. Tbe average wuac wxls J baht an

huur. or 10 ci-ms; ,e pack os Falling tCitin ananttSes, mrob on imfmrtcd mar bines by rwJ'hnlSnnrl 1'nbttceo Mnuopoly, ettsi *> liahtt

three boui^1

work. But ibt^ boom wels stirnbg

the ! Libor markcl

“That's l! 1 1 1 have now% fi«r maid H

" said an

American busmessmait back across I he rivet

at the Royal Bangkok Sports Mob*'! h L‘ diimeÛc? e® into the t?ij_ Fuctmio,

l.imnlitin in the Sity T -in Am^m-im-marlt

NortlirLip t o jelol tIieRo>'Lil L -u Mr borni\Vcep& nver Bangkok While W.ilb rJIC hike

the GraUtd Putarr, hurit In 1^2 R^rr

,i s t hr bpjcrl ui l.hr citi hi : ipi i n drd. Lh- llj I hr,.

Muit Ground ovtrffow& on huliilnys wuli

-Iiii-t i, j--

1"ijien-ai^ ^Cttlks-. spcefiV pl-LVL'rn, Aim

: r i rbfi- S| ui i 1 I -i|A il 1 ) iwu, fait

ctraund . -yr, i-Vt I he l j I > froOJ Tlmn Kiln

n^w..-wv r> mm c’^rn £ > i i

'A*'?'*

* *y^r *--~

j Jjyf jT r .

, . T -

r jFJmmmji

Firestone iirv<, kuv-C j- Vac ElustiUfejtf t but I n lms,

Fi .rctnM.st tees: tenin.yisu aameiLMy ^lrrJIcnrr

wus with me seven years,, now hr earn‘d three

limes as murhtdnvine a (rack The Iruth

driver became u ennt opjCMî the trtute

optiratjpr vi enl inm ji sarttuc as a mechanic,

nnd the mechanic is I.let'ornins an ertjpn£fcr. 1

Cell you

,

dtis cotmirv is. on the rowv*if a

Hls business was the promoting nuw mil

lets fnr Aim1 ni .mi pnxlu t I*—rhemkaJ rat

killers, kihoiLitor> c^mpim- m . tibdjfle jlieing

knlven "IhuM. Year” he va\d. "Thai imports

From thr Lulled Stales win if up I lb percent

The opiiuEtunities ate dutstiOidkg

1 hid finncrijilivt^t lilce fllld Bfiuty

Thailand—^dtiu* -tili call it Si,tm— is ;ui

dtijtstandlng cniinin tftj*edVjtjtrlh& the siiv of

Ttx^r .

l

n i J the biitfscst expurter of ri . * in I'

world Queen SirikiL ev ei nidiunl w hen S

wmi hoi her during receptions* hafe and

visits to students, is widely reliaxded as ihc

moil beautiful queen on eurth, arid in 1 'i:=

Mias Apikira Honpâkul vya* crowned Mis*

I niverie. My Mtffl-d Pri.nL said Bithtikok had

the fietrtil rMOthrrs-in-hkw anywhere.

To me- a symbol of Thailand on the tnavc

h\ :l- the gfjptntk planninK nw*Fn of Mt, Pole

San^ ml the Minister m Nûnal l if vi+|i*|s-

tmnh Around ft AO-fcoi Utble stood '

I micro

phones, ibr meetlit|p of plannees; illumiruiicd

map^ on tfearivalls Era* ed the progress of wurk

on roilds a rail daiHfr^H^n WhiU die 1

1

1 lM’i n u r-

i jlH the ecnnumh infrustnicttire.

* For ihntj nrtd for education. welt spend

GGG^GCXhOOQ in the nest five year^" said

the- mini.-ter " Sonic nf this monqy wil conn,

from hunt*—fiom the World think ,icul the

United Nidium, aml from the l S.jLiih,,md

japan hut IS percent will come flmni OU2

oh n tuxes, i nar own hutknsl incurne.”

Then the mi Mister turned ti i photograph

of the BHumibckl Dttflfc' o 1

1

mi Jen oorih pi

h.i:i-k^k (page iu :i, which ln'ûn opemilng

three year?, aao f,Our likiitu^t public invest-

ment. Thi* dam supplies eleirtrkiiy for the

capitid tu sacr in the niir condition erf tor this

room Most important, in r he dr\ il

enables u^ tip irriauu: anpjther null tun acmkemtjmber, hJ visits -m we had .M, 4511,110(1

I

iL-nple Nuw it4?1 mure than '3it,7SO¥OC.iO.

^Thailand needs 'mdn^tjrhtj pruwth/' the

minister .i«!'k,il. "but we intend In stay prt-

ifisirtly :ue jlk tic uh.itml nountry Ue want si"

Hidden chanires. We want tutTuingiff |p5duii3l>

icLiinin^ our tradhlpTUi and customs, hut

kuviiiHL-' up with ihe qtdi k-muvitij+ wot Id. The

: r i

j

h j 1 1jj tl wurtl L- than ^ . i i m foi v nurseli

l said I would Sure tMK'Ukrh, within I hr

hour 3 ruu head un into an old 1'luii ytrstofri*

m ;l barber -.bii|ittVutl vhnuld have your l-ut-

cleainjdr iiajd tile laaiberBTf st i^n't cfeme at

k'u^t twk u jl mopth I he ihri tu ihc uir could

make one -jo deaf ”\ -aid Ku ahead

1 3 e pul h'i I over ft u

\

u rê riec k I .imp u n( i w i

jt it

tn wurk with delicate lonji-^leimmed tunU.

J. i :-1 7rvine Ihem gave mr an eerie sen San nil.

Spou n . i- h s settpi net r s

, c u l e i.. r i I

j runj i wjdt

Sfre.un e rv of sw 4 1IjBWs-

îllibuistted .Ltuun*i Elip

LiriEhl lljthts- eaf

perch nbflrtflfr husyY^wun.i

Hm4EI Aruuml ihifti flush

in (’hilsE^/rb.'b!,

Li. 1 1 Fripli'h- Jdore ihwtt

Imlf î milticn Chinese live

iri i h.t- Thju < nph ik where

t

I

kv rlpiminalc IvaAx

\ ?iE i ^ e tvmp kkl i i i r i s l;

i\t I he f>T I n j E^tutkuk

> kelp. White .ijbjianiJ free

uHreshmiinls. rU^tomfif4,

\pari£rtln for rin^ wl th

Thili uippillrcH anil ntJjLtj

hydrogen perns ide W:m- !sh 4 crac kk, fickle.

LiurV 1 t hrmghi tin eardrum Junl keen

shredded Then the ^.unjh crashed Into ilie

11 1 her cm"DuiTl vou feel belter fidw?" .liked (hi bur-a

brr It hwj ii joyim* ii-dtng. Ui baawbtfth

eaij back. No wonder the Minion of Health

wm asking for a new law—that public lwe leaning; hi 1 lunc b% dfirtmv only

Another tradition, one that seemed here n*

s-t

:

l> mu !hanj2Cd . w 05 l- x

|

iSîi ny 1 1 a « me h ^ 1Vas i

r

a* w l* entered a -a tearoom for -pirn bmises.

'Tvery plot of ground hilt .1 jsfiirlE,’' lie

yAid. “When v mi build 1 h'liisi 1

. mj murin'!

drive tht spirit .iwllv* i?t ytiiilt met1? misfnr

nine So you jrivc ihe sptrff tk house to live in,

out of an the oa^l iarii(!f.!

l a seone os minmUirt1 stone buildings

on prdcrfal>. each it foot it two Sung and

k-d tptOtUy like init-E of the ttmple5 in

town while column^ all .tmtmd; 'cvvral

>1r-. |i! ^4hli;d rOi if-. null* Lkh i[i .iiimMllt litre!

tn ^r«n md red md gold- Tin-. spirit houac

vendor said bussness wits be! ter than ever,

thrasil -aid- "Vbu don't fhrei I one os heiiuii-

fuf os iheê The spirit will s as in lut} Hltle

hfuiH N. as lung a* you invite him proper!) Yotl

put in dolis. a- servants and yon offer fin at

sind i license Some people do thU once 4 day.

U s a way nl [isaunmi protection'

.-Vide from thbi course^ oiie mu-i .wok

ways <*1 miLkins: merit To mitke merit Is the

mba dLTfily L 01 Luted tradition uf nil, Howmuch merit one m.maizes to ncaim til ate deter

mines how one fare:? m this Hfet and in what-

ever rabrtCFU'l' rrij^ht Mi cup after t ti Lit

Merit Eiinvrrl by \ re-c-Jtig a Birr I

1 ini- maki merit by doim^ - utu-e I l 1 j 1 i| .is

l* li i.i n h r I By rdeadtiu; .1 i aped bird, for ox clmV

pie I often saw people buy bir 1U- for a ha I it or

twci, so they could sue them true

Merit m ib. highest L> rnnrlY b\ >buwi 11

devotion 10 the Three Jewels—to the Lord

Buddha: to In-* tem S 1 a r 1 s-

r

,(he Dhumm^ and li-

the Sungftin liii' Brotherhood bf Monk* This

h done in uncounted ways in ^Thailand, where

90 percent uf the people nvmv eagerness to

live up to the Mhainmit They go h- die LUO 1

wtits. ur mon^terEr*— louriM* UMuth lhII

them temples—to brinp flower? and incense

ami coddles, and !u put gold leaf un n hundred

thousand imaêfi of the Lord BuddhaMen her nine biiikhkus, or Trmnk.v by ihe

tons 1 1 E tliiimiUMls yihi see Elirjr - .1 3 L r m rubes

evciywhert: A man nan tosOy leave Lhe

SaTi^ha. hull 1 hi: irnurmuUs mpriE he has Hi tide

by having been a rm-nk will --I .lv with him A

ws

(.0 vainer silk Eibmirtitx i r. i ii .

\

iMu-riiiin

uJldînil life- wai|( Ir it ft bolt fNrP 5«u^ Th.L*

îlk Thmu^huijL liu-.Eltna Itnni'kii-k. himif mills

Latter as .irtj-an- spin nnv 91I k ,tli-u n du tL;uid

Weuvr ^(locllbi1

1 ItlwiL*. iffEcu iijzSfans wjl|i

jnlil jillJ silver. The -Trai l hurEîmi’ iLiJu-f U'urJ-il

War II W'hcii an ^jm-rkoii, Jcinw-s Tlmnipum,

QCg^rrlred 1 hf indit' try 4 ml i mrLH I IJ Ltr I 1 lunik It

tbes and impoivt-ri -hiLEcLe«.

Siner i\w l JiaitanO hit1- wek'tnncd

/unnT(jt hi Wpslenwn are ralli-d Engineer-

liave romp from dir VnthcrLuiih, l4 ^->tr* fmmh'ranrp ariJ Belgiuiai, banker^ and tdiu dtdif

Irvtti Britain .uni f\ 1 h 1. ! «r - .ifirl jiUrt hlirtlritîi i'rnm

Hie United Sldti^

Hi -t-knnwn luraciiT hi Wr-ai rru-r w.i- Mi:

VnnjB f_erHism^n-. .1 Hrir Lt-I. govern**.-. w\m>crdmrinuctrtsdl PTcperient at die lbth-tcejturj;

Mill ii K.iIei- EV ir i.un I iLLTK-iiTDl I-.Lri.lur:

fKiycl Inriir urrrf tin' krtii; i?f îaW -It- 1 llif

mU5lC4i! orni nmihul future -''Tlie Kifta .iJ-jiJ I."

\ .i s t,

i d spray- ,i I mi.sjii n'iUh ,v

Siitfti Moturji iiruJ Nksun Co.. I i » k. . hi Bai^--

l;ik P whiTr workmen ajaarniblc cars andI ruck* i rum r^mpOiKiih marie m Japan

Kleturfel vprtnj: up in fornwr rkv fhshls onihn fiulikhtf sjf Hu? ciipElLjj ll-. lias

1 ThitE dr

rniUiri mnfi i^fKhls

I' an ilii i J .

i

l ijue-i IjjtuK, .in arli-.-n !

r hsanE Mai her hand a* m bradi. Foj

i hei rfiTUB-hi'inonr| wadr-, u n mr. n fir*t \i i'av

r

luimlHXi Jnln bnuU ^ndl trays Thun,

lis on jj:« afscmhl> Ime, ihc wnnrs mcrvi.- from

hfnlst ln> hailsc, and nefcsthbof* £uV?f tht

irarnt1.- wilh .1 bJiii k misluri1 of r!uy am I Lax

,

Li jgc'.ally harvested rrs-an i Hher Imncfs &9pd

and polish ihc -iurlai e Finally, layoff of red

paijfil I jijLIcI u hard, shUmjiIl hml'-.h

With fe-ct for a v-tac, -x carver - :j i ; l is j lca+.

elepItaiiL, yi-rnSjul of Thjiliuid. From (hr

luindirruM uiXEagr 1 - near CfiLiup Mas ai-j-

frhmi Urnnw ima^fv nf the- larfd Hudrihkn

tpinpfa hells, ehith doll?, pKifn', fftbrk^. and

iik^fWMr madt1- .from mEil Buww iliiLn-.v

v\ star from i .ill fori Li it said 'hn'C st s,,jd. so

m iny able bodied mm dpi rig noiMmr" Kentd

of my Thai friend- etffrwd this view Ptaslt

• asi Hit rsirtisk renounces Lht world ;tnd

cultivates the spirit Tu that is the highest

type of mttn

"

Doing scmiethhiji i!tKttf for the monkspavi n li 2:he ni respec t, p| i tyr fi g t hem u 5 1 1 a 1 hc

thing! tun JU'i'll : - i' 11 1 LJl"l ft

- STliik 1 1 1«.

fc_L!-10m

ill mjiiu .1 rumiTiapy .11 .i house uarimnu or

m u fretttfon. .it the laimrhing of a ship, at

thi upentng of 1 mi\\ hutd. 1 san it at tltlJ

mmlishtu: of ll Ibis ortmtivc

Spiqm t|is locomotive, lc blue* and white

dfesdi made 10 tofntfi, s% riuJri 1iljLI :j nrwl-

*1 licrhtlcd cstpj c>_s 1 hi it^ fir-1 trip mnsi B.ieil

koL iri \ I ; li , 1 > - i .1 -jinn 5t*J mfirs tu thr -iriiilh

Holy Oil for Dic-Srl 3

On Jt 1 Jit is airing, ftu 1 im> k, nmt 1 u4iiup-.

U.ji I I il'lti iiu^ for milt arn-iiL- A white Lot

*on cord -<r retched fmm monk In mfjnfcplhett

m ^ foot -high 1 1 r . 1- - image ofinB IjnvllimidJui,

.it ni U1

1 to ii btffldJinliL high all tilt lui uClfcoUvu.

“The toed transmits ll good intlueim\1

said

;s senior official or the St^te Railway.

l-i rr ti-ntr an hour the monki. chanted.

fXjNMihdhSt* llw lihaniTn. mil bte&sitiK tbr

anointing fail Another official slid on hi" knees

from monk tu rmiilfc. relilhirg s hrif ten Liip>.

Tin* general m.iiLaeeE at Lht ! Luhvay

mQptd .1 bidder rhpjiHed a finger into the

silderi vessel vyith the bftwd nth and (tabbtid'

r.iA *pots btlnw the |lH OllHittvi-'s btEbdl^L

Then nine milmid c™. alive* kmjli bd'mrv

I In* 1

1

.

l

i•

I . . 1 1 'i I .1 Iidi'iJ tu .1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 k l l1

1

1 . 1

-

' . > I i .i\

with merit-making mfu-: n laiua blossom’

1 .u i :1c,- .mil nLatches; a toothbrush and taolh

paste; a bar of snap and a towel; n fao* of

detergent Jim I u roll »ij urfleL papfri

finally i.hi. m*iucm monk -jirinkh- d Lilt---ed

water i -1 1 IJ all V we I It. t 1 ri 1 s I if 1 1 1 c e >. l'i ij

ilVfts siiifl, “! his w.l- j ]

3nîEeei: for meAnd so. on the following fnurrtirig, whi*n E

mw TTinrik* wyJk abgtlt fat lbi*rr diuK tf.j (her

me of timLnvhmeiLi- -tairly, before thy irafit

ru.di beeian I knr v. that 3 hml been wtooj* uti

think Ihjjl they wei,

r tH!ê.tini. I’eojile were

wxulinfE for them. It was a privilege tu put

Sood rntn their tKiViJs

To I hr Thaj. fswd ddcojob tow; til-c \i* it su

murh lo the prince perhaps, of She Wefit-

ettiMH- EngHsh-sfâklrig elite oj Bw^kok,nr 1o the n.>p i.nn^ middle e Ul^l-- hill to the

s1

List majority.rtto eat" h Hit kou, pl

io ear

ricf,wWhatever eJê one eUAi—fish 11 r meal

or fruit He kmzT

Euerallj H wcth rice

"

Th* rice is steamed nr hni!ed t and -piretl

\uV i

1 f MJ

1 1 F HI 1 Iftifl

Land of 1 .nrd Bn(]illui: ! hi-1 ton mild Invgn

m W.jt Trimitr ]ii<l until raceEiUy unikt a i'rjuUin*L

ni plaster, applied Ciinpirio ;mri tv f<Kil Invade

m

ll!, pi ;.:

lii- HtUtfri* rrii kedf rrVeaiine tfir iruite-

utc rVileriitii voieriite both the precniasi onHisnl

iin rl 1 ls ]huned 1 1 ! bulvîr di ih f 11 H&0& 1 1i*nm p .b it |i

npl umi'd ml inn-tleH enanJ ill l- Textile tif the

hmeritkl Buddlm: inMdi1,tin- fbi 1 hen^h im-

vther iiniini*— trf preen jaiper-ôf I he Indiafi

print'i .aid [iluln^'fihrf urhfiv nmliE

1 lieir way oJ 1 1 1 ie \ follow*1 1- 1 1-iy- ve^ per±» ibeIow:i

it N fltiffth and inrenHr ftt one of the- rmiriLn v

:? (K"i <it mnwosimt^

4HF *»HI. '11 l-S III.H- I

r<p tI .ni. ni i-

Ik Tk

1 _Jh * "If i't .

l,jAr H-Ji m •• J £ r _

Jr'"*n

B

Ini

.vy r .s.M• jwjT

C J'll

n

with £Le

E

i smiccand chill -Mi, wIxal rite' Listtm

"The rice of TlndLintE I ins grains dial are

loop ami dernier—and hard, sti they won i

break wink- htimi fftfehtd in llir nrill Viler

i urjk iriii i lu’> are ôll .ieh I painLahie, -wtetime? aromatic ... the Uv§ t rice m the wurlrl

Tin Ii if cmirsu 1 am a Thai/

1

The speaker wus (>r Salu liysanrindiL,

trirecinr General rtf the LiepartBiept of RufJ lr lull I mu- i j *in ' yiiurs ago ho had vLtidiod

11 latjf hrefdiit- ai Cornell, ami hr gladly

ji/brum kdgtd that hjy old piufeiwtrTDr

I -Eitr r> M l a}\x ."in d turtle I* * Thailand to hcd|

:

matt Thai rut wh^t r was The RocfcefcIJef

Ko^ndatian was heEpmp now But mtuidy ii

vl. 1- it r rad it ion of careful selectuin.

1 > : “We hitvt alwwy* had a rice surplus* »M

we'utf Hied ohh Hie vert- best for seed, them1 1

way we breed our fighting cocks and oirr

Fightinu fish And how do you like out rit rf 1

l -ilr il with austo, fitld i n 1 he Thai mannerT

fork in Hu- left hand,, jwrti rn the rinhr the

fork pushed the rki1 iulIm the ^hul

Rice Fields Hk'sêd by Mntfeî River’'

just am thr overwhelming majority uf the

Thai tfve W tire, ‘” i nm-i of them live hy

liFuwini: it Rice strw> in dll the rive p.m- fir

Thailand, in t Jiir north -> ii I in the <iljl 1l jei thr.

northeast iwd the southeast. hue must andof all in tilt pari known as the meat uen-

Lf;iJ plain Here w liter ir? suppllifd in plenty hythe river < 'hrm Flirty a [map, j*ape S/j.

Tin: Thui prefce the cianjjes of their gmd

Hvbrs u'iih tb<f word namm— ui

water*.' or "mother river” Pntsit and I seL

pul by bout lor Rudr t hiin, a vilLige ml \\w

dm qI Mol ber River Ctwto I 'lira) a Sir. Herhin t HiLIh)*, 4n juithtE.i|iviIuj£î fmPi I'-diffir-

id% I mil i gif I mv a to- Album Ham* C'hjui.

In that v ill Liar lie had heard parents i

ftwp dirin'l like rri îvcihcrrflliflifceji medicine

that offended them, It was lieUer nut 10 hurl

I lifir feeling

Ur hind wen babfip* iiiih two week* old

pfltty gyldfd by their mother* lu |hlI tlu'jf

tim palms loeetltur ami raise them tu t lav

forehead, iri the traditional Th it njesfcure of

respect. A* they J3TCW older they would learn

ilia difTemil diit^ree-* in tire t’m-ehrai] for 1 hr

Luni Ihlddha «ittd for monks; to the ekim- for

oJk-V sUf ivriuE^p for one's inferiors lo the dieiL

Most imporLiiiL tilings niu-t lie .ypihuA,

‘‘Thar's kiiMLillj imndmed .is'inn.,' " Dr l*fcuJ-

lips hud told meT “but it men ns ;i Ini more thim

amt * Whatever b rmuLinuLdEy worthwhile is

âiLiik—aoim: In u mil, harvesting rice in ii

funviviid Lir^.u|

•, hutting with a no*y drangisfrom A merica

Ami jie nie rf.i-, 1 onr avoided cmhiirrîtiL'ht

. Vi «lhrt> ind Em nne^l| That1

' u h\ imc

gigged md mid mm prn r,irfnever mind.

whether a tie minded or bioL That's win/, in anl'N'l ii Usually oidy one iûlidaU1 fur

village headanELii If there were iwu, !he io^rmijdu be iânpstd became he hud Insi

The man whn won rmsaht be embarrassed

loo Didn't tin: very Id etc <M‘ a tompe-tfirir

i * -# «» pp r.h* rrmin ( tu

Siting jerk' In a (fettiEicd »n-ftn lieat, si I l-.i [ i . « . iri (irpmu i

•>

lEanr-- |rii,

pL

, .l! i :â i^h r i tub in Bilflitkok, wile Pt Wtelifti rime- Lind Btidnfin-

rrnrn hi'crywliere ihcv Liu, the exiiberufit Thai niuke their own ftUti iterr,

an Ament an shitviceman an iv.xvvm njfht. in Thousands uf UnitedStalls f^faiiiuz TiMdli Imve fbuifil rtsl-Jtnd^rcrrcntkrri leaVP in Thjidnnrl n

in f Ir (inn, break from die biuudy cewflirt fib \ u*l Xnm,

With iofricute geittirtiL wd itudied pftc^t Btudcuti of the /.aAiipt^ .1

I Lif-jiji ii! rJ_Ln

r

l--i I rLimj1 f«L^ hr-tq anil In rmn*'' in liie fi trbt hetWri'n h

r+d , 1 n • I

einl HpjiviJy embmiiltretj 4\k tannine imitJitc die tejrplrmJi'tit ilro^ Wornin roy ill I'rsinte; wherr the Jjtktjn hjD bnsn. (.jcrfomir'l int ciinluriK^ fVjr

11

1 L-. dliil* irL ;k rcidjUimtll f Lhp itiinfrr-^ .uJ 1

1

)~>C thf Urns liriTi--i ihn?rr-

jiiiEls of the folk >itibrrrv ut northern TJmilarid- ^5

National Gfograpbic,

Juh,IQfii'H

• i 3 nii.li! . 1 1 m JO l a persons I 'nnypctCTlce?

The stfli lioDSi af Bsing C]um rose in >l jil-

r l1

ri

1 1 c l ii*ters u! nnu k

1

11 r i li’- t

!

l

-

i r It'd mto the

(Hds where the green rke ^load three feet

Ibovt the w;iler line

\\t- Mopped far nifitt m klanu *ifc iVd widemil turner! imt nuEhumi! mnlor afl A r n .

-

a-

-

while ecjel flapped up

The silence wi> total; ut first.

Thm I heard hec- Fish jsumptnp. Twokind* of birds arguing Vtsfi'o tci Mir hub!

Yokes io the left fiSU Suirirrbm'h chr^milbonnJ Or Phillips hm I n't told tne what anoisy [iimt thjt

Prasit pulled up a chunk fltf w«d“This tr juvrr I me it when 1 was a boy,

Lei \ have .sime iH

IE wnf crunchy, dighily bitter, .iimusE

nulty N’oi budHr pulled up .i Jtitus linger and pudeil Ihr

r-rfiTi Nnl bud either MWt? run ;il>o eat the

reeds” hr said* "and the morning glories"

We rhmEiZL.'d on Ei> .1 fiutuK muni palni> mujduck* A hi Me Apr! named Sumalec w.l* lining

soaped hs her mother. thru riu-urj Ln the

^rteni?h-grcty water at her door si ep. She wortearn ugh, a mm. k

L

1 1

1

. and two bracelets, all

gold* and a belt and ankle!:. nt silver

Ili-r little brother wu* getting a liamui,

I'linr the father. The boy was dn-wd to a

stmiff. I t. went utruimd his wui.st.

f ie go! tt when be was -.u k. ' said the

la! her “1 fis body WlIS V€T> llnl + vi sii- IikiL

him to l hr vv.it I"hv Inrdublini pul ihh thread

art.' ms U him und now hi h well* \tu*L chil-

dren tôC. well that way.

SuniaJre wm having her face powdered by

her mot her, in make her sfcm beam ii id

'The lighter the skin, the mart- fitiautifuL"

her mother said, '-When we nut min she

sun, 'A t put oti a hat or a piece of doih "

l raid in Amrriai we like to Ik in the muh.

to gt'E tanned

“ThntV vmr interesting11

said the rm’dbrr

“Why <lo you dn

I said wp think it’s healthy:; H make* tis.

hiijik -irhkfcit

Sum.ilevV mother Arid,11Well. I Hunky our

skin is very beautiful mo.”

Ivuk mid Oil bring Wealth to Aurlh

An ttvcrnbfhl IfaiP ride UwJk me Em ChEangM,n the sectunl Jargesi 1 H> in Thus LutdT the

big town nf 111* north

tSangfenk Jias 1^6O0tO(X> —t.TiLinsz

Mni barely "S.fMXl Bm then the whole rountry

lut:- Mhl- d:% tuWnr- of rimrir tliaji 1 ' n -1 Some10 tnillicin Thai citizen!, liw in I ho liilages

The iiurtb has Itislily forested moutULunH,

-iirnr of them 6,000 feist Huh. w ith much ttiik.

This beautiful wood tuts mffih 1 he sleep-

u; 1 h I ec I ol d h ^ 1 >f t

'

hi&ng M a 1 i nn v \ \ l<- i ti 1

north .thri htiii oil. fcinH a new refinery, (ibod

rainfall fnslrr$< psod tqbiicco m well .ut rice

3n 1 be valleys four subsiaittLil rivers flow

together to ftumfrle nfttn C fa ttu Lhrayel C"hi it ng

Mai nestles on thr Ping Kiver 1 arrived

(t'ttntitfifffd I OfJ)

1 I IL ™ ;f* '9 IIIHFIK I I liUjl *— . If t pvi_ . .(_

\njthmii gilt's e.U'1+pl bdifcig i j 1 .1 !’!uj|

boxi oil mast h Fti-r . IIm W5. h - ts, and knetfs

fl> to * *ei iris hijliL it irlc^ pi in 1atv ufI r< 1

11 h L

<«|i|KfFiîE vt jthtn ihvi' three- minute munch.Corr3 Broil nd bkep» hulth uoodduikr hiii in ^ S|>cji tulurn \h& k lo tfijs lefevised

tiîiL -il Tbjiukftiii(irn Siocfhirn in Bant:

kok T hiitnn^ bel heavily ihrîiEi'orni'

In a calm Isefnrr Ihr. di-fi|, rom-at l ’dorn pay immiige Ltirir

lu.irtier-s 1 ntf invoke the of ‘pirn.® he

fnre ihv < Tsst: rueged hustinn^l *|*art

KJCW util (if ihi' up;iijmci‘L '.'SuMr-sn liL'iiiinir

ol medieval wars A Dm: lime

stacklrd their hîwi binding witEi biukenuLlss, "if eumiIiIc fi.i both

n

I’ll I! yMi:.li Lit li ii hw cpc!L muvi'H Annr rrlt lm .1

lihh-procen^nj; plant near Banskik. Ltm“. 1 1 1'

u

m nan 11-1 J hi Ialxtffcii4 3 ti net fidifr. Th43

w timtn adjt$vt i^iilv in Ehr^ 1 ontinicttun

work \ hm aeefim pim^> ifoirir natirui^ -jmnU~i '.v.» 11 J irii hi vln.hljf ill inn.

Raw wmtud »if .L iwiv-nii road m.j,i

junjdg^'uvm'cl hWl% twirl he&il ni Uun.i'kjik,

Manning h t S mmIt bukhluxrr. a Th;u

dflVfcT Uiebir4 iis jn AlrWrii ai \ MFlilir:

l.iJiE(r> ihr. imj-IJi wm 4 ^hiYp'ihHM fiNlliff.

11 h'i iht I" H Aril!: V I 1 > if!-

5 tif l'.Elipi-

Jlv t' i- *,

lhe Thttl llnviimnii'ol fiftht1*. 4FI

Afrrirftiietl Fund Dewing lineal jfiruurain

to bind the hititerJumls to Hanpkuk.

H.i-iiFhl rtf hcvtMn^ij!—Uiih-r 1 ri > : flnv ui>u

OiityerJ W'j th kt—cools li L'oo^t rueiiwiil wcsrkrt

Rtiad-bu] 1 1 1 1 rag Vault sipsa (muled smft dri rs k

Jfi

. ' pa

Il'iJJIflllll

1

I

1 lll|U(HHj!a>tl ! MID SM> > ^-T>E~i

^rurri-tNt’n] uuinitri* irftfu* fctntidnm. t u iU» i-i.h - *

tjf ftanukok bunki fJri'rtiitji.T illfilgflt Difci Imnlrmi

jpfola smtcil mlh ei'Mcl murk early fiFantincs riprninft in tfar

dn .‘icii-* itn Vilhutr tin* Kir lift flkitiu WmftfWBv

nit Lift lLip.n thy am r iV—tnueltl :ihad.

tn a (treat miftoiml nt u .il i n Mi Mjpj1

, monks bkss aml dis-

iribuSf ypzA riififM Utr ^.nn lieiI I'luiirtni: VVShu. lamllafr i\o

mrth i/i w'imtr baTie>i. that tnobf cu-Ctfe \ kikt> n Mirtilu>

that matip-i ni.ili.inrl; Ibr worEil'? leadilnf? nrc incfii irk-r

an Lbf day of lay krufkîig, the festival whenpeople id l iivt:j Thai hind make nr hisv litile

i ! i

>

m,ii -h. wjtfr indies on Lhezn Tbainl^htpunder

ihv ini! muon, everybody *cl his float adnfl

urt wi Li Lever water Wan hjiiuK-*

A- I looked Imm a bridge At t 'hnmi- Mtil,

thoLuands >it fifi.ktTii.ru; floxsr = made the Pins?

River Li -i'll of candlelight \ young man told

me,L|

Tibi's how we final awav mir bins"

Siiid the lord -ihbnt 41 Wat Phra Slru^b,

"This is not really a Buililliiî festival, and norrmnks lake pan But it due* nil harm *thv

mlentkHts air good,!

He w:i> the c:i d t >iaî i r:rd povariinr of the

north* in trluirgr of 3*442 vrats andmonks. Hr hud jnbt plauid tuM to thf Eighth

( Vittosnctf of I he Wur kl Fellowship of Bmi-ilhi^L? He asstired me, “RurMfctitiHi b it; well

estiihlithird here anywhere,a

1 stayed at the Railway Hotel Chians Mai

Haul four other new Note]- beenuse more ondmint? hniHs.it were timing, lo visit thu t'rai't

villages nearby the ^fik-weavTiiK village* the

silver village, the kiiuhrell-a-Tn&krruz vilfsme

rpaee 7'd. ihe wood i Lining vitLme, the vIH

littfe that! ast hmiizc bells and imiup d the“i

. j. i , . . .

Lard Buddha I EjTnewsmen looked forward10 it bsm;er airport, for jet airliner^ hj that

formalime** on urtuind the-world flights, might

stop oft her*, i-PStoad of ,ir Bangkok1 fn I Sowed the fimrmt rmin all (he w;iy up

fu ihe vOlage ii the Men Irihranuin high

fthnvi, Chi Aug Mai There was a fund,narrow

Imt -»i

! u I'jililr. an r I Uio view of the valltvV

Was glorioiLS

That day brought a lot of visitors -o

Fre rich mac 1 1 : i n r\ $al e?m : i u t Spftfthh Jeûiu1

1

callPe breeder ft urn Bavaria- Ml had « am-era*. They were delink'd with iht Mros'

black costume* and Him

v

y silver flfcefc pietesL

A M«» woman grinding corn told her little

mrl, 'Mink’ for the nice photographer"

HuiVk III titudy„ mI. i of i'll discipline viv-

RiW ‘i \fHi i Mi tEucLiilttsl itumk in a Liny muni1

1

r \\ ,i i'hni -siuzh in f hioli^ [VftsL I Ati II

I hai rmuik-, lie liriwnd* «tl Ijiymui for rkt«od

Bad Farmshm^ Lmler no oblii*aii(jn, henuiy z(iiVB liieijmc Iiijvi- Mm. irn-w

i'H_d, biduilinj! Ihe b i n?n wfnê portrait

hanjF ti&dt the ceillDie^ tarn £pedal merit byIb'inj! lirir >hors pcmnl- lH liLkEJ l!FllsI nmnh-

Oe low donniEun humc-. nuU -ruilviit- ai

Ch I lipje Mai 1 in vcT>tiy t n i - j m S

^

6J to

sL-n.^ tinrUwxn TfinJliurtcL

p-fc l-iiih HifcJ

1CH)

TmrEftiitg j mptr mail,

,in I vy ,t biim-

Imk> rafl; tralc In^h (run

}ikjv> lo tlr^Ll Hiip lushfel

litncmjh i hi riir Vhi- dl-

l'-bfl.nl |«!flndii'ulls jrh'ib^

Ihf LoUtim. ^‘LLh its ijujlk

tfi thp drpUi dhifiNl

Bound fur ^ iawnriO u|>

ifejJii. liit- jiiitiy irfic-j the

Rjvi'r Kwesi"—

-

the Maekliunk'—n^ir taitirhrmn

Liksn brlrjiA the iruinjjicd

RttUffr

\fib[li 3 bows I lj

tileptuints pfjy humnpi mTli aLEan 1 1%kmp an<1 Queeniirip] iht l-eelUii# Pmltkninf Vuairiii ahl'Jbtrni by .1

iillblwl 1 1.1 villein a 3 Mai'

Fall* Fnmt Pftrk Dfttuip-

•ircuimi: 1 he ininrah' -bil.

11 inbuilta |HiE I

J

1 riii 1

1

1n Litis

ihr- p,ui - i>f fom.-i W'cprk

psjshm^i rind

rolhr-yls^' Tiu nlk in tapI i ir. i-( u i Irfr ? *Eiji h’ itic winti 1

1 ! l' .1 Irak I Oil. 10,

T!ir]iri( r I fir M*& charged for allowing fhttwNtt K> be phnli>-

era plied humJ just gune from one Ljoht to l\m. \n old Mto io3il mr n

was only fair 1 le Ion 3 beta down to Chian g Mai jiitij seen his picture

on a color postcard 3 Et thoughl c vie ryba dy jihiiEtfgraphmu himwould m.ikr money From it and he wanted inn

At Border Patrol Fulke headquarters mirth of CbjftJig Mai I wasbriefed an the problem of the le^^-viilted hill tribe*,

There were many of them. Akhn,Kamra. \ an, Lahti, tasu, LuuThey spoke many rEifTcrufit I analyzes. and they were very poorThey had to be hel|wd They Imd to be watched If subverted

| ..Minimi-? agitators, they mLgfai hero rut rbn serous gvierrillris

Border Patrolmen built .schools and LaueJit their drildfien: agrlctii*

turuJ expert* .tmighL ifi make ihem cnfi^enEiitia on i raps uihertlijui

’Scr kuinsLaiittr- "tivmn With J KmUm!’-, Ikalk I.llb, " m Jtilj

Sathi nai ( ; h OGEAl’JiliL' .’P.-bM - . '71 '

.1

I CM

Sra-Jthell are iji Hhunidiol D.itti ibfjnw,

isnmifd i'or ihr Kljiu, lif ilil • buck A/mt ^.iStrxH

ttif r'ijij! River the rt#efVi4r will irriiiiiti: li mil-

lion arm- lor net* fiirmint: Turbinr - rn ihr

I'mt-hifTh harrier have doubled the nation'' dri*-

trieal output -i I if v they lie-usi '.pirtninE: in 1'iJfe-i.

evert! EiaiiSy They will ^iiaxlniplf it

*.«_< M>* >vi > * *. a

Bnlitif1 IfVQl the Htvtt ktvai. _r m , ax n-Jir

thM ijispiieH ji i. ple&raied novel .and mutton ph

(lire, curve* \kirk buses .1 iHinp sun

Beneath an iirrh of I he VnO-Jf iot i|ranKa tanner

dni’ls hL- i: j.r. c lu hojn^ward.

Seeking a vtrateKir ftdtaTty’ link between Thin

land md Burma In W'utfliJ War 1 1 the Jiipuinest

\rrru J f>

f

l mt -Vllwd prisoner* ot war ^nd Ajnj^n

workers to lav mute than*SCI ini leg oT imcfc

r

Ltototlidi lllidari^mludetl lUkltfJc bill- nl fhnU

-:ind* died oF mtilmjtnUtJLL nJitl dfciea>e arnl in

Mlited liumbni,^ tb*d rifcrtrrjyr^ imn <if fbr

bridp Today the rail lime juriet vinitm^ fin-m

Bangkok tu Kjitu hanj-Liiin, fie.Er l|ic reluidt “-pall,

where ntfut r.mk.i of stonth lldh) m-uk the gmve*m! about hiil I of Mir- so. «ih pristshcr- of wur w (iin

died building the Mbtiii|ic ci deal It."

Uplluk America jl cu{uipimnii:, esi^rfally the

lie lieu peer. \\± invaluable., and so were thi;

American advisers, the apprajô^tte andpnlice expert> front the (', >. aid mutejun

I drove on n

r

j rth fur another 1 00 milts,

through the 3 tide town uf F&ug. lo &p<i mi the

nitsht with a ThniBordei BatruJ pLuLuiiu, close

r i i the l? li rm.a front rcr The post was biwrked

oul One never could tell w ho ongjil be toot-

ing for ft Tanjet

\VKt mnmtng, when the jeujp could jn nn

farther,! walked along an oxcart irail and up,

past a few houses; on iip1through a stream,

and ih rough a sleep rnre^l with leaves cjis-

kninjz it' if made of plastic; apaiii up. on a

Alipfier> Ttlttpc md then . i J < n tr a Tidi®e+ to a

villain* of the Liihu i pitta: 1241

IJul^ growled at me ft must have biim mysmell. I saw two rfcfttn house*., ptiis, stacks of

firewood, a curm3 for dancint: Llndtr >nri}e

inuisftE H em pomes sn very smalt pens. On ii

btm^li i hundred yards off -at an e ante

(>pium Crniwers Don't Tell Ut s

V itum who knew this tribe wdl hm H i old

me that the* lived in a biirb moral edimate All

dressed .dike E very * hie rm k nnly hual'Ji

land i-- lie mild work Nnhody lied Rvefy-body w uutd kmnw, because ii & mail Laid alie. or did toffiglhrrifl serkmsly Wrp&K, hj>-

uramh ("her? Spirit would mukr him iJF or

kill him

A man with a tattoo m; his chest stud the

peopk were away, in the Gelds I didn't wantm ask him what they grew Did he like lo gqdi>u ii iikio the v-all(jy? He said he would vat her

no l It would mr him a headache.

Driving hark, eii route from hang in

t hkiei u. Mai, L mw ;trnied men hringa wound*ed villager ink » n improvised dink Hitf

st4jmaj.il was a ul blfsod

"Bandits from Burma/* I w a- l old- "Ttaev

ambushed a government payroll, bul \\c

foiled that We killed one of them. Look,

here's hi r- weapon It was a * S carbine

I I i if armed men were Thai, membcMi- uf the

Border Patrol'- lommajttfa ttfift Tape* on

their jackets spelled out u; Knglish “Special

Force."

Back in Bangkok l mtjiilrfd about nn inter

Jireter for a trip lo 1 bn- south Better find

Mihirum1 down there whu spr-ak- Malay .t*

well as a couple of Chinese dialects* 1 wil*v

tid \ iwd The stmt h e r nmo> i i in « v i r . e hadbeen Malayan lerriioiy from the ItiLh to the

rate l. H Eh century t hey mil rontiun a million

-o-eaHtd Thai MoilemsOilnriu, of oursc L= useful rvcxywhare

ui ThaiE-nid, especially m Bangkok, whereroughly uni.' in tStr^c inhalihaiits is. a Th.u

Cliincfiv Thai doesn’t include nil Hu- peoplewith C'hw&e murht-Tr or unttidfiitiers Musiut IShtii an: loyal inEcrmLirry

with Lhr Thai, Mtmy nirn their naJnrj' mloThru, bui a Thai am alwayn tEll, Tepchltt k ariilncsc rjJaJect, donti nates much rT business.

On the Diaji (page 82), Thailand is sjiaped

like :m t'lcfihnnrs headh and by liv ing tild430

miles to Satu^khto J moved way down the

elephants tnink 1 was ,d-o plungiag intv i he-

rainv ncuiofi, For in the south ihr moniôc.itt

in full swing—the ni on soon from the

nntitiL'a-.i, l.isiaug ironn November thnufigh

l; ebniaryr

a Befori' tlmt it Iwl been theôuth

went monsoon, from May through Scpt^tnbcr

.Iej thine iLior Tnrinrlir. I hi raiti^ ran he phe

nomenal, producing prodigious Hood*

''VAnd marvel dus shrimp,” sasil ^Tr. I'.mv:ir

Kirk^-Cnii, Ifelrfti Dflicer oi >ongl-:hbi. \V'l-

sudc Lp the gfivVrnur's ym'hi nn Thah Luany,

ii muddy lugocm 4U mils - htm He c-illerl it

-Hhe lakep

Tn tbil' dry -f.mii.rr- the waiter U blur aiui

quite iitlly. Now thu rainwater dilulc> thi

•all—great uyt shrimp Weftcefce them " TheyttulH Mi Japan.

t-littery Prl/e-; A 4 ellllLry % rucrniu

Air Panyar ranked one step k'luw the gov-

CHUt r E k H as rc> pon.s LT-J l- fu r I 2 ( 3r.», )t.M j pw0fi I c

—schools,i:i\> |io| ice, evns ryth] nsi As he put

;i it was quite a job;imA lot of resjionsibilily.

nut mb l Ii hlu lu iH P- , a l«t cif irk , and ve r>

little salary"

He pHiititi'Ll i iiit j4Ji island farUoUi os a nest-

mg ground of small swLfLv Their uesl

-

ge I

.

iU ; 1 11

1

j ' bird'?.-nest ou p, vesy ze^ty. mNowUj

tV. gn briek," be saidr

11

sn E can ^how you the

new hospital and school for imrsfc-M

AuotiiL'r ufliciul told me Eh.it within h?

miles uf Siongkhki some J00 dattccfiiU? Cum-mutiiyi* liad been arrested in the past twomonth.- Ame rn . i r, i i m n ( e rd naurgency a tivi s

efj. had been mosi helpful Pa the Thm aiitlmr-

J ti l*

“

SfHin after 3 left, the Border Patrol cap-

tured j. Communist igntp lull of utiJforrns,

flags,|:amphlets

fcand bnuby trajis.

In Songkhla I Eiad the pleasure af ll visit

with Mrs. Sob Bunibvmg Mm' months eurticr

she bnd . si.hi eve d Lhc great Thai dream— thL-

jirixc in ihc Nmional ladtery Five huntired thousand baht! That amounted in

525,000. To earn that muck u Thai laborer

would! have tn wntJi nrr ji hundred years,

she bad stayed nn In the -.Ami- neigh bn r-

boodi, though Ihe hmi.se rmw was coiaTCtc,

im

nfil Shr hftil hcmuM I'u-lv- m.mtl and tnsis lor iw- sons But -fu

w i ?r kef 3 in tiif kiit 1wrn us bo fure. c 1iok

in# nee m (he 5jme old pots

Hit husband* Mr Mud Bpath unit,

had qtiil hi^ job u_- a sprayer fur a muf it n ;t ciiTHm! proKnitn. He told mi: abumihr Jifi» tiling btflJs oi tin srnitK The bull

named Kwonluem Wiu tine of the best;

he would figbt again ne# Sundny

How could a bull fijxhil more ih.m

mrc 5 didn't llic fn+vn- nl kill him v

M t M u 1 1 - .ii d “Yo u rJu n1

r tin di: rM.in 1

l

The fight ii ajWayi between inn bulls

li Iti^fo until ntir runs Ml Bulls nn-ver

kill each other here"

My mterfHretrr. M<J> Thauee Thi.tr

u

vanicb^kMlfc Ifi hmihiT and Invrd to talk

ill hp it I il k Wr i irt i v r pfl$t. fH t tads l i J a L 1

1

the ruiv>i. I i, Quid hardly ktk-| up with

nil the trees. Tahitm, iumpor, tetig, nmi£

— it! I dtimlik. btiiv>i pjDO' hI for

luiy^c-.i, luhI > i j pt ^ the cheapest, for the

huiii&efi of tht poor, Also, rubber Umh.Rubber was thf biggest export from the

pi?rt at Sonck hht; 61+000 torts last year,

more notv (page ill)

\nl tiur from SivHglehlRj at the Kutrhtr

Research Center mm Hal Yak anm-tendant said that Mr Jack Haitink,

the Englishman then in charge, had

ni.li mj to tow n Vi>u ( iufj urt- him hv is

i all and hasm

d yel 1 o v. VI i?n 'm 1 c I • I . • I r i I

fmtL .VI r H^tiirp in Hiu Yai, but I

found half a dcrai-n Miifttilis

Tito w+i? tltr Boi ijnirip business center of

1 1 i l south. Xbxv 1an i ks . a mutel . two aii

ciinclhiuncd movie houses \ 152-todth

hmd hud opened Ihc week before.

Thr motiey of Han V;d came from

rubber, tin mint!-. ,tori Malayuan tuur-

:su, .YEuLtysians \<*vvA Hat Vai.il didn't

t us 1 mjL'h Eu Jr i ve u p. mi «

d

didn

' t ever. -

body want to see a fottttsn i, inm try once

in a while?

I tnpfovcmerm i sprau led u I i n js 1 1 n Oi

tnile-% of toad to (kdiani—paving urn I

concrete brsd'it.-, Lu #Jt|^|nnii die flui.nl>

While Ujl- concrete poured, lempurmybypass hndj^ts hajJ io serve Sewndwere unde? Lrins4tUc±Jfln. wit In logs

tfragSfod from ihr forest to the nnu\ bydtfphaius For a while ] watched an dt1 -

pha n S 1 h a 1 1 l,i& it i;nX i ketl tU ‘-k H i ^ t pwner

xiiifl.,LHis uiLviji' is Yuntifc. He is nut

beautiful, but he is a icou-d worker'

As 1 h l- [ir:u 3 'i-hiriiJ J^

ji|e i rt F’MUuu

l wii- told thai riif iniitru w;br Hai L jl

Hu^ Iut Iili£, li mjrv and hi - rTancU in E“SiLhanLp-r itti - dn^n

I'iir^rn? tkd « tirirîirnurî ihr yinum^. teJ- wriM topn-venl

hb ttuiuy MUils from &Ura>lB|5

'"StigBr IlLeii1 , plciSp?" CCJli a pLnl-ihjc VflflMte® Jii-tcIhw s

Ims ot.u Kîmdmnoburi- Rond -wea^.1 travelers refmhrheoi^dvefr with a skewer 01 sweets (inr about & pern:

Nik Abdul kiihrmin But, when 1 Intro-

dm erl in the imam* I learned that be wit-

ILidji Abdullah, tl.id T been misinformed?

Well, ito, the Mcrattmsof had r let led

1wo imA^ Howe ver + the authorities in Bang-

kok -5 i i r| ijul1 man nuis^ be in rburze So -îme-

Uni£s il was our, and the iki ht-r

Outside. spotted-necked jj.urÛ-d jil

decorative cages. TeQt'le kept them ncxl to

iheir houses, to enjny their *weet |iurfi;ling

I hey wouldn't gurgl r Indoors

Twellt v - fj v

i

1 itule*. -sir the i iov«-i tmr of V-illl

I'tilfa e t iij, Siii Kjjjhinm, -aid we hmE just

pasM-d thrcji juli o in ii tji-i l. il Ghlnfcse ftmroriste;

m

olber^ lurked Lthead These were ersperjeated

troublemaker-., bavina fled inEu 1 Liidhuvl

Iheir rebellion in Malaya hud been sup

pressed Fn. Nt.Lksv.m fein-. under British com-

mand, He asked u.- to lake .dung .in esci urt:

"il I he) -t;t Li white man, r here might be

trouble They might think ’-nu an Rnidirifr

They (lun'i mind Americans ”

W'i: fullowed the police jeep through TbuJ-

lajiLt1

- mmi roman tii" lajtdse^p^ tiliau+iunjj

trees Valievs now clear, now misty Lime

%tmc cllUsLp s#mt woodird+ som£ tintit£gy* hun-

dreds oa feet ‘iiTJDizln up I iiimîiunl E wasriding ihrouJi a Chinese piu riling

t.mltri hilfni-Ml M I:!'

- mil]

cirtj.-- ^iLiirkMl .nLiliii.ltlt!*- nn liir

Ef.lijm! Mil" Phi Phi. s^silmi; .1

nckety hiimboo ladder, .i n^kr-

tor ]ilui ks ii\rt \ n-

I i

.

1

1

"=

; i_ l:i.:-!i- «

l'

:Y, m:

verse on the vast lina-sJriTu: nn_ -

erns 1 1.14 ninnel the rtiai p;in-

hnniik And iU islamb- Secretinit

ii

:

U

j f ItLe Mlliit+iiiie in dtL'ir

mm.ii.hn, I he hlrcU ffcilij iJdfrziaj'

iu'\U 1 below i. ^kkicijj them fait

to T 1

1

l- ru rrMif-e:!! liriehT- (.VjIKt

I sirs hiafvcil ti hint’- fsrMi iwe*

ju'M.-, leitvrni! the I h.mi tnrrni^Hc

viujuj; FVtrluiipf ilsuyi &U) apound, the nea-ts conk into ,i

; : l.[!I iCl - -mi

S

«fm" i ; ll

1

,|

i. -i

!

by the i.*hin t-Jie

,wlm mlv fci Uawn r%

ihr- hlood pressutc.

ThoM* cliffs* Ml nf c aves. ru^ rver closer

to ihe tom\ I couldn't I'nrsjTrt Colonel Skrir

*

remark. "The Chinese teTTOrijib fire tkiwn

irrim i he KnooN[.ni^ Jtj>i uboiu everybody

killed there jgels a buhel through the lop of his

flL1

ini \\ milil fhfc ptittiireMimf wilderness

n$vet isnrlP

Al Itj la*t, at dusk. we hi united Belong:

—

i -i^ible city Rcyaod Bettirus was Midijy-u

lieinntJ was qverwtebnliigiy ( hui£§et

largely dependent on rubber P and hu-nre not

I i ii-

- I '-i • I- 1 r - [Ujo r.iUnT I iTi iii ?\\

toidit a [HFund Now, her aijsc of cum pel lLluu

from synthetics it went for three or futir.

Mi lit rubber o\ southern Thailand uymtsfp.iim sfruill producer? Jinfnr .Mt,OOu [jeaple

t . : |I heir uuni tm-s. Bui ne.tf Behind lit! ll icu

btii rubber estates, and ike Chinese terrorists

wiTr taring them Most of i he owners were:

> hinetc and lived m Bangkok or in Mnu-.i-

ptifi-, 1

1

lie one lived htvt Hr hud twn jmIhf-

men sri from qf his house.

I lr.ii h i il' bade.- noli I ! toward ILn . ,ui. I

Htnpped and took a walk into ike tores?. Big

brown buiterrhi^ till ted from ihr shade into

the -ins und back again, On a rubber tree- E

nutirvd -.irinii of Chinese characters and I

iL-kediinoat

O

h. njtjbi dapper whui tbi mi ai it.

m

He said is -H declaration nf I ove. "Aboy imri .1 girl mti

( Iserr Vou km*w 1

A tint her Pi in 4 ufnci by and ±a\d than.- du±r-

aeters meant that the t rt:t! w.& no guod Theywttt n notice not to bothej tapping i(,

I copied Ehe character* a- best 1 could andshowed thrill In -till Linuthcr nijm later nh 1 [i-

thnught homnrte hud tanked thrill as a trEb-

u tf tn In* late hither. it was a (.'"Jiitiew customHack hi Bangkok I gut one more u pinion

MIt pn diufrly was an extortion note from the

(’hinese terron-L-.. lin nr*l roan you flaked

pmh.tbly km

w

ibul didn't âpi to ttdJ you

"

Ttwj bad I'd In-il my i opy or the rhtrraciers

J li.nfiil (+iiuh ,i Whikr-wcui \\ ii\ VViitc

In lhc rainypouth J had often been drenchedli i the >kiti, but iti 2u minute- I'd be dry again

\ncl 1 never felt hut, the way t m-uath did rn

liatjukok- War^ agn, I auppetee, people fetilinsE

as hot as I did jllsI jumped ini o lhc klone^

around them Nowadays mimt-mu* klnnidcss

Bno^kukiari^ jump into their turn and head

ntittthciisl, to the beach at Hun [liutthovB

I he drive led through the hl:w rewifenlbiJ

quarter eaSled Being KapdpaM - htfjrttejtl bibs

calories nnd cnngirurilm offices on Sukhum-vti Road- past windmill^ and iMiin ^neti. pîrn e field the left ;n ;

I salt Aim on the rfebl

Pfjisit said, "'[he metmub ihal itrnw in the

HU sail water tuple especially vwutfi/' I hr road

paralleled the coast til the blue Gulf of niam.

Bw Rhaithjjya had u hotel and cottages; a

yiuhl > loh md bea l: hsltfe rt^Liumnt a nrr-

realiun center for jtttttXti, the Join! Ignited

MittL's Military Ad visory Group, und anotherl nr tbu L\ ^ Army's nsfi Loâtinal t'oranuuid

Han ITlJilfhsmi wa.~ a hotbed » it wiLTer-skirng

-itnl scuba diving.

We|

lulled tip at the Nipn Lodge -d (ration

"We're full +" said the derk- ri But iit fiveo'cEm k

wp'll finish ,t new wing with Jfi toons.*,"

We cam* bin k at eight, dad ut hoc! irHer-

VaUnna. The other new rooms were full mtptirb^ from Switzerland

During nut r.Himlt^- ifteni-mm we Huddriven farther into the southeast— pine-

apple and SUirar t,mt and the sued smell of

caLssava mill*—to the liatbur of SaitaMp, king

; I btii nnval base. N’ow there ^lrerrhect near-

ky ill i I .j|ilijiu, dw kmge.’.i :kir-Snjnn 'nijrh-

' . l.4 . \ sia— 1 1 , ,iUl J E ec L plus 2 1XM) feet * if 1

1

ver-

mn. Parking ram|j^ aiwl taxlw .iy^ npfwart tl

id iifeliuushinsz speech ever\ day 4JDCM1 feet ml

conereie, |S inches tbiLfc nnd 2 5 ket wieIil

Tank trucks hauied jet fuel imni the newty

detficneil .md expanded ;iurt ta the airbtijsc.

There would W pi|irlinr- Mwm I \;iw a nsoun

tain hall green t half brawnbth-fed and dusty,

Hulldiustr^ cin; wed at it A furtnnm _%aid tlii>

TO laieme, a krw-^radr iron ore, piod ior

making muds amt filling land

\h- Ml lllJiicT 5J5Q [HMiiid Vt -trvr

dine carrier baled rubber shcvi- at

..i Chinrysrim W4r^hiay*y In Sourkb] Li, 3 niajur tiOUtllrt n- 11-irr Mr

l

- i sfirk in she- ffirc-TTiiin tn

IjIU I hr L-ur^n j> ir ir* w v ahaard a,

liidtltr Second to rh e aition^c Tfcits

cxpi>rf>. the rubber si^c- tîmartlj-

Lo Japan for pirn., r--u i |j

.

Tuntpilirc pfe&Sntis rhr wtirfeerji

brow marlin him a> a the

Thin FtefS-iril the bc:ajJ.iia -m fitdjtriit

would mi j,nui it to 4di use

Titrtiun mid n nm? Jukis û-r n i

Malay I'odtir kLnjs tiKhp<*und

Sin mjgota— prttfJu-L'L- iff ThEultultfs

nrw ^rnchrr i ml the Large southerly

Lffaml of t'hukrt

With surf 4k ihrfr %luicef *tn

eypkiei pdu till 00 PhukH Mrn-

loEk of iliih w iimfeii n^ CGiiFtal pec ;

plr -wim inn with miier EuIhtv gi

jffvr fur iiTc-rieh nilL lin si jliXfc! It

U\ dhcililo'-î MiT Lhr women Em f4ft

F&ithiT i iff -* footc cpoiJi»m drril|£p>

Ijrine ui' 1 missive hire 1 nii tin rem-

.riLrasr—dcposil* washed doW?ti

trmii nearby tfiihuiitli)|u.

1

In it vmuifif wppFld of LjinnE pLnt>, luu uz&rBelem: lm\ .1 riri* ele wicii akicMaîtenf timlwll^c

H chimin id Ruin _> snu iviili uruJiinr ini . :1

[nip^SiatlLstie blur In .1 r<i.Lrl!-idtj rf--pîranl bearHrlmii: s^Ktllhrmmfijl dty -it the kmcimm ]>inrr«;

wait jifcf I hi- torrent Lu darken; rookW-iildlf-: U>r ruiilMm n-n Xcar tltt bundid kAAÎIi1.t.

l hijiii ^ rtiEen in l\m\ ctd%erU5c> Ctvaltinr

Liiii\thr.iiljle it* the Hi to mui fkiw of the lirjts, iho

nerEbeiLÊ ciiirj 1 1 >riol^ britijiL- blerrr. cilUJlfl* in rtiirk

Win'e* ai:ru*> the Thu pan ha mile imm NrtvTTuber

through Tcbninry Jiinîri4i li^Lvjipiiurss chm irii||ftr

ikva^tilling rloodi Thou the tvmiT jv, mr atu\

frutn May IhriMHif-kl SE]iUemb|.TtJjf mnn-EO011 pelts I hi* UiitgtacJ i lira -Tils Often djosifhfd unhi-s Travel*, thr nulhor discovered ihm in Jh minW« Ihe Em rural ^mi LViMkfeliJ: rnm;plt»|(j|ji- turn

r 3 ii Hit* airbase J saw ji bfuilfce plaque, with

two enarodfrl dags Ac loft wort the redr

w hi I e . 1 nd bJ ul- vtn 1 1e ^ . 1 1 I hailjunl\

i&ê S 1

At right, the Star* and StrlfH;*,

'"he inscription taijj ihikt un August ID,

I bii r | he Prime Minister, Field Muesli ;lJ

Tbmagm Kuiikuthoni. actini; in Ins capacityi- Minuter of Defend, had dedicated VTapiun airfield "as a symbol of i“n43p^Ml4ojifor pence and mutual ^curtiyc'

TluiihjnrJ und the l]r £ Wire partuer.- ul

ssato, ihv Scmil liciird Asia Trc.xiy OtpuLeaHim The bjBfl wa> 1 'hai So were the (guards

a l the g:itr tnîde^wioî atfdwph'ines and men

M 2

were Amerkun The Thai were ho?t^ r thrA mericJins %pmt\ O n Ih cil nil dei>tn: 1 .. I l : \,gt aik

larê bases nperutcii in ThnUrtrid, and several- mal Ict on rs. I Tiiphun was host *0 jet I an k-

i tonne. B-52 bumbfrb would come uiun

Tilt Fnipi CltYiu-M i'riiiLL'i £iptpd Cruder

I ci I - nu'kek, the sun rui’-u brilUajttly on Uir

wth biithihvv mi king Ehmiiibul Adulyoduj,..iUu known as kmg Rama IX, I hnra'jeH) tn the

ceirmrUuH parado af thr- Rnyal (iujfds no

(he Rnyal PIzlcjl

His 5 fnJetty earned a itokjcri bajun-'Tlic frrfet tt-Sl jrlv irri'-tri or April JES,

j j -1I.M ihIi t-nAi' i-i- h

pi educed h} ibe lltmfil forces—and I hear 1.

1

ill .it I it? conmdferi?d as hi s n k rst birth day izi ft L 1 it*

n /. i i i i hr Crown Prinrtf. Ehem'n - hr»'i iri

Kasdan d, Wjis hrs*. in hi? d-i>s in mathpmatira

I was dazzled by I hr musturl band 1- and by

LfiiL1 qenenib in liirtr ku Id- braided Lnnn> n\

-carlet and d.0Vi gray Mid electric blue, l heir

plumes oi while and pink and black, and their

sashc* in oil ihzst I'nlorv

Thailand. 3 knew, had general- by the fhn-

f:ns They held many of the higher pontons.In iiiii £ i le L t\f the giivetoRKnt, and amnnethem ail Gen Prapur Chunisalhira. tops a

very special general ^nuic 124! He was a

Deputy Prime1 Minister and, wtih i h i km^.approval, he appointed t^ers snvernar and

disirict n ffree r for he was abn Minister nf the

Interior He bended a dn/eit kinds "I policy

.i iir| as tb inimaniier m Thief m" ifor Armv he

controlled lbi- troops that controlled Utanftkuk-

He certainly was i\ fnendlv man. 1 venT

lurk'il that 3 bai ufiker-. won; the inn- 1 h m-

tifu! uniform.- pf am modern array in the

World ^Thiink you said General Pfiipa-

" %’i ii j kmuv, when we betfrin to nimh-mUi- our

urm> . chip first foreign advteer> icaini; from

Etii ^hi. 1-Lin -:. Russia. of course

\jid oft he went tn a microphone before

ni

tliu reviewing -t.md P to mnlu* the * urefiwmkt

addrc&i tu tliL king He pledged the army'sii i> leI t y . referred to the

wis 1

1 1pee i

11e ;i sed infil-

t ration and subversion at the t.'diJUiptis£B>f

;

jufil R'jsMrtt'il ill id ii! I Thai were uniting

against ihs.i ihrfiiiL General iJttâssj^hcaikri

Ibe Commlmist Suppression Command.That night. in His Majei-lyN honor- public

bui! ding*—Mid many ntherfi T jLr)dfvcn irers-

—

writ Festooned with hizhis It seemed u> at

mum god furl ^ prink led Him. Mik wilh i?mu-

ûiiL% of nibif? -irt' l tens of thousand* of prarkOnly in one .spot were thi- tight* mil cite frit

it the ltt.li"centucy fort left m rer tnmi Pa- djs-

montli-d i sty waits Herr flickered hundredsfii hide o IJ lamps, casting .1 spell n| gold

Thefe \ sal along lL leftover klung, m an

a pen-air rental!rani brumth. Ehe ulej t annoru,

Lind watched men sciding the batderneut* 011

ladders* eh nsligW ml tamps blown out fay the

wind- 1 could imagine die in to Uc warriors, on

she hi tuck Tl w;i_- an image lhal ha* fmiintrrl

ThaihtmJ# history.

TEiaiLmd'* Pjnst ElpmuinM .1 Puîk1

\s diics izo, Bangkok is not old P not mucholder I Ei an Washington, |j e' h wos t'nundc-d

in 1

7

Si. dirt the Htirmr-r had racked she

old capital, brnutsfuf \yuttlmya. ndlcs In

the north (ttttpe 1 16) Ih-pyious Thai kingdom*centered still. tart Sin north, in SukliothaL in

i ' Luang Mas. and probably elsewhere \\ hvre?

Archtnlcjgi^L-—Thai, French, Danish. Dutch,

.me I American think that w\mi they havefound tatdh will di anne Th.ti history books.

*Thc widespread, notion that the Tlui l afflc

from southern China* to get away from KuhlaJ

Khan, rests on ijmifEcienl tv h Ii-m i- \Witjust mil -rurc where they came from

"

dec lured Mr j j Bock"", 1 he sc: h?i tarty

Dutchman dite^llny Lbc Hhun SocieU '- Sir-

dearth Center. And Primx" Subh.Ldradis Dis-

kul I 1, an i-l Sr- ti-

11

1 1 le> nt >Ll|i.-r.nr = '1

1

• • r

siu. told me"We feim found 1 new* historical period in

Thailand Site" nut fur I turn Bangkok extend

btu the time of the empire of Funan, luutieh

the first to the sixth centuries A.n L’ntil re-

cently* Flipan W4c? thought tu have centerediin what is now >uuth \ iet \:im, nr pn Cambtidui. Vow Li appear^ lJuiS si-. fiLpiiiifc tiT.iv

well have been hi1 re"

VrchroJoey wjls l jul

j

ming, ad 1 lu* 1 1 Ehjl*"

r1 n 1

But -u was 1 1 iv illicit export of vaJUAhie im-

ages of the land Buddha unc&nhcd IlilcIv" kWe would Like to get them to museums, be-

fore they are all stolen and sold to foreigners.

I am afraid tiii* Is now quim 1% problem."1

The lime had come fur me to j% close

Innk al Mu- ilnunbi pn.iljlt'Tn i Ji TJiajbmtl

the VorLhea^t

ImAprtB a hard land t a poorly dr.iirn ,

i| [>ki-

tean about the size of New England, wamr-logged under the monsoon lint generally Lund

and dufitj The rii.e iielris nrr hard in lrHpnU%and > it'L':! poorly

I m ,1 gp n e'1,QG0 , 1JOD far11\m g i setjpk% two i jnt

'' r every seven Thiu. hardened bv the land.V« ,my .if i- tV.n-edli'ô Mi :md seek to

BaUukuk. where Lhe_^ are IsMjked down upnti

as ôkd^. In Janp;agr T dress, and rustrims

they an: i

y

Ti>sef to ihe farmern across the Me-koD^ the eibiLii Lhai who ore ihe people 01

l -ms. Imagine the ufficuLU st>ot from farawayBiuigkok, pining for comfort* and advance-ment- Ehe> left behind, iMger tu iir! hark.

\<n: bs-^-lerni' r* feared them.

In Tkinjibk. during my visit, tt was Ligreed

diLit thus i* haw ihmushad been in the North-

east for decades, at least uritiJ recently+ Vow'hr iiii was full of tujpe- und pfam for urral

changi^. E|uit k belief farmiruz- more mad^more pohcc with helicopters

i >therwise wi uildn't the f l1mu ri sis

.

bjisrd in

the jungles and calling themselves the Thn i

land Patnodi Front, step up their murderous^

. |

ieni 1 1C- t« ven more"

H

Jn 4 w;iv, tSiat w\u wasn't S'1 %<=ry ilislMtl

M.i Son>bPtm hitj-aprasjut, 35, a father of

five, and the highest-rooking officer yet killed

m iiii3 Vo rt beast had ju.^l been 1 rematti I in

lia r 1 trko k F ki on- I h t c iurcm on > >Fie I d Mat

shot Thnnom awarded hm^ 11 pi“i.sthumoli5

pruitji.ilkm Em l’i 1 iluncl und thr t Inter nl' tltr

White Elepltaiu. Third lirituk Coluoel Sum-Imon h;-til fiilten in a skirmish on his 12th

weddtrjc anniversary

iVild West Fivet On hi Booming l dt»m

After a >iji. 1 mi 1 l- flight tu L'dorn. the ch|h-

tal of the northeastern province i>i thi* samenxttne. m\ Sifni smprcsiuoifi? ts'pice nf resuiirifF

rnp changes indeed

“VuLi'rr on l lie tu'Wosl litnû in nswn," H.aid

1 lit 1 jllvl driver “Faveri lost we*k Herr - utn

ii r&t l nifliH. light 1.wo monU15 o! ii

At the race toi k J put my immtiy on Surm-

boon 1 'Im+or Perfect \ ictory, who was netted

out by Ratana The van, or Divine JewreL

u hi If ^ 1 m I Ming MaiH> f or My came in

last. Bui Ihut ibdji 1 disturb nw Ike I1 .1-, m iii li

ns i Ile ihuml l*rm g of the jet hgh t er-honi ti£ s—

die Republic F-UJ* '-T ur Hjuhdi?rchaefe

Pof the

I S Sir Force, landing on the big .ursirsh

right nmr the track I iidn'l the planes disturh

she horsed?

1 14

II ILEII l^llK'liL' 1I bn Hacks

pull A iiirt with ^ Lug -«3unj^

bbtstoath it fiCRT Sakcin Nak-

hfiTi,a proTinciAl facial in

Ehr (mriftt 'Infested NflUln

v:lsL The Thiri cull lid* h;ini

abiuut&tlt Limber WriJ rfePt[£

— "red; wood The distluc-

dvi rart rLisTif!< * hnmpr<r-

like oufriitjjet to tend utT

underbrush The more j

c:irl hqiaenk- |h$ bciTcr. Thedriver ht^pe? il will nrarr iiff

udhl LiojmcLb unii i sri I sperfts

IrOfCidnK provide L live-

k I mu m I frif many a vdlagci

»n lln -O' -S'mit-hiirh funrlh-

L'LV-^prn plaifinn.

Pride i] f FLs umier* i iiJls--

Icnin^ log IjtluJi. parades pL-

lui pts ; 1 n 1 1 hijrn n-n

the hitugii-Ke ruck pnnllfliiiis

Hi mime. ' Rrjitht Uftln

Mliile 3 ti- Japm? . the f, r 1 u: k 1 1 a*

rm dour—_h I'ummcm iatirii

in bilin) Thud and” ( ridinp iht rr 1 ud to s ^ k on

XmLImuc. sjJiiJakd tad hear*

a nidon >kj 1

1

J 11 (.Lav of jfckrky

ruirrhciL-^tum ri i*. rookt'd mbuniwb *Utw * !n r marked n#j.

Kuli i ill In vun k. .1 bill I

1- 1 1

phsillT -itiiJ hulkiiiu raJf ft]]

ri tjudi en TiiiiEt- L 1 *> U Ethpl^I

rn-jf S.immr Sri khan M;i-

hom ~ §tpy mpuiued m keep

'In- Ih-'il-L-- •

|me I 1 lu.Hli;j l Eke

jtMtmey Though mevhuhb.ial ]-: 1 n am'-j.d- rapidly In

rhjtib rtd. mnndLhinr tweeh

ihedcplmm at burkmjE

from fone-ii to river or truck

In -I tL- Fai^lt^h "-erven as

.1 >et !>nd lnn$ruii_m; of Thui-

InttrL, annlhcr British tnllu-

eitcc pirv^uUnlrin-p «ii< high

uii)^ where driver- keep fja

the left side

113

icwnmmi n n«« mi - iu

-filS

'

1

*

7?IV

1

,3® /.F# i i

i 1

1 Hf k

Jp

, 1

Crhaitu of j '2, J ori 0u \ [nul ih

irf it Miynl Ice84| ik- ^|

«i ki*- thv miniof îiun^ riipltflj for

four tcnluris-. \$hg* of h>y .ilty

r^t with hi the aûi reel dfrtusi,

* ilfrf-f- [tffliftf :-tuf f wall* rrvfJtl

fcd-brEi.k cote* \ wjillfij townIII 1 1* mulled by Wfllefl ill the (."Juki

f'Sifii v n. AyLLLtEtAya Ui the

Lnri/amt uni! of iht binirst

-.uuih mf ChituL \ Uiuda InubimItiJ-b dc.«cn!icrl it a* "frîjcnted

by of] KatAntw; nftd . impre jnn-

bte " Kui Burracse iifrnic? piem-tl

its defttlub in I T

#

1

7

Today nrik

iJietc crumLLEru.' rnonum-rnt* Ale

icti tii haunt the kmngtnatiDii To

prefervr <htm, I he vefrimt-iil

(>]iuu 1 JiaLiijriiil iJbli.iTLL'fcJ park.

Mast nf evil idctiiificji T'bn?3'

kanth ' rikihly cims-t heinous villain

ii "be Riiwakitfi. Thai vn -nm 1 t

the Indian v.nff, Rttwftytiit't W fti]r

nun* pantonijinep n rhnrfco ltll>

iii monkey h^jitiEfuJ

SaiLiie^,and jiou rriid hflrflei

Mn^k-iil fcdalik u'iUi blu/iUK s-'ye* rt£LU!~ tilt Army mB the hemRuniiL PurMiLRE in .ill- of the evil Tljoadka/ith, Ramtii iiifitruai: h ;i sfTfLsIwre, I he sliigfc JifoWs Lurk tliliing on juiHtriuiturid

IMT-witrSn a j{rPktraJ enlarges hi* knl;k and lay:. hlTTHelf ai'TO** Eht

waier a- ii tirkdjec H t fe. rnrtyanR shelf leaders uiidtt j ^rcDUhiiil

mnbrdJflt Lhr army fbimis in hill llf_ llmllandi IJrstartmani of

I'm r Vrts in Batkjgkid it ini^l the fciLLorv ujiiI syrniJm nd this

»

vpi^*de

from the JhmwfticN for the first limn la-i year, m howr vrviciujyt

i'rts-iihms and Mr* Lyndors H Johnson

"The Etbrst* were: nfniid/ said a groom,

“Now they are used to it"

I bought j jjJ.fe.-Ui him, iu^nuvd grttt)

Vfcgttabk juki\ situ Iv< hile l sipped li though

‘i piratic straw. .1 iwiiiiiimi^nci? jel ouxie Ljjl+

a MlBound I F -4t; Phnniarm elicn ,1 big

USAF i drill; fc'Lum-r.iB Fdrrhfid L-i;- lJn f

-

v i lJpf- -I ( liftoi Was J ? £ make- awu> P uerr^^ ]

—half Hi i hunt is-tr ihc Thunderduds normal Ey

seel Tliey went shut wiy often

TJic Hotel I'di irn wits crowded W ilh l SAFliOrers. Xo room .it the b^v. ^This is n roiir-

fflf Iown/' 4 major said. "Like Dodge CHy SOtffears 4U[n I flordly skill I n i atiisr 0f the Eimsr

From the 1

1

ji 1 1 1 1 . l I Ciir with it*. Fifcrm wheel.

Chinese opera, m<A Strifj-te;ise §huw_*i Thurock-V- rci

I ro-ckcf d until h a m Thun ihe

MHi-UTt started in I nc lirst jet- roared .;ic ft,

I'hf tiovernor cif Trbrn proposed newwtiyi lo he 1 1 j 1 h c f eimeB. For ex ;i mpl e

stenth -

mu storm £0 ^row turithumh “New ta tfab panni' Liu world, hut nuirvduLj- Rh;u here |iay-

1"'< baht an acre* after Jin diiv^

pay 10TI bain, after Just l J0 days Then youI p£t™ l he field liJmeu', and 111 another W days,

u^ht fin 1 h t- > ,1 31 1 1. stidk- n e |3 be another crop,

innthrr ifX1 baht f Japan ha.-, iirommnl to buyaUl wv ton Lrrow lo fefcH Iti live* (nek

11

Vnfi-Ht H M udk j 1w— a ISe’tfj’r Lffc

The guvt’rnnr hud studied 41 the LondonSdtt&l nl Kcnninmiic? "My job." hi- -;lhI. %,lu ipve the people a richer batter life Thenthey won't listen tn the Lomnijmstv/'

On tht tom] to Sakon Nakh&in the nvxi

province 1 apuaE, \ was struck by I he dtisi

VTJHC’H htiin f m m I

Fig hi :i rattan pnke h nr . mfliijjrhikfl III Chtaiig Mai]fag|y|m wJl liiMp hy i|r and utt? instead tif weight, andtiiuuUe to Chinese, Fkiddh^S 1 I i

e

n l:

he mlsinji of hte

MlHiring i

I

l-tif swiitinuiii: "hi-. filsufa aruid |* «. iti

wMnr b u^Fnloc : mr Fmt^T a tewn bard b>- ihr Burtncftborder. Whm .d] hnifh their dip. 'Our yuirth* will mEBUntiln-

uiii -ivi|v toWnird hrmuL rhrnwhffLlt rtiLidanH, I hi-

India Iiensahl* buffiilo the lire llrkls ami pifih an «

.

cajEinniil i'nri V\ ith femres un k 1 h jwn,

eiei fawiwr teEhFfS hUin ;i -sniulE psuitur, ^nrl jmsls a «4m to ^ h nver eL

billowing from the rond ven fine arid guld-

en red. it bad so rallied the v^tltflion that

I wttndrltrl how t lit- plants could breathe

Bttcailifc it wa^ hoi,we had f he Citr win-

dow? ripen U'l ! ivert- ihrw—

C

eographic

phdtogjrapbtf Dean Conner: our interpreter*

Mr. fhuvrin SaraitiLm. -» Noithmstemers and

1 When it vehicle tame the other way, wrc

would quickly ml! up Lhe windowsWe toad to keep \hv windows up ô much

of the time tl till the car became a hot ho use

Finally we juî left the window I u. ;uvil

stopped from time i*p tiine«m hem what p«>

lilr had to

Ashnpkiit|icT “We clean hpttjr many itnui-

a day I ml sliil the dust sset* into everything

I etn into WJU« jtlrih despite the cover*. WMlthe. ever eel the roLid pjiv

A hi _ h wny eitiii

i

\te r_JH ere are many . many

Communists. ft> not safe#! nighL some! imr^

nut even by day They keep especially nftes

the army officer*. They haven't hit any inr-

i. i oh.t? yet, IlhI they _j f l- try mu They don't

w iifit :.ol rJi l- r f LLJdd officers and h 're inner? lo

iromr here anil bnnv: prmtns?"

\ third man- M l!n >. Lei L Lhe teachers,f

Tennh t'lmummisTii* or jp ' Many û. Snrac-

tijnie> :i polkerristi i mne- lo teach, Some ril-

Saizc? hiLvc 'i ti i mi)'- bm no tcachon- T..ns-r week

the Communists toucht with police right

hurt. Three policemen were wounded. Vn-

body w*ie ranglU-1"

In Diiun Min. I talked to a sol-

chi-r iv hn l .n i in L an American rifle T a li-mcSrH

her, and hand frrenadcr "The j» dice aren't

enough/’ he said ^Jsiyw they need u* too"

Farther utn in Pbiumu Nik horn we *aw

more ^ildier* and many people with conical

huts Tbcof were Vietnamese. There wen-

40,000 In ihe Noftkast refuiie^*- who had

left during .ih* war against the I-rttuh tn ,i

roadside restaurant hung a picture of Nmili

Vietnam t'-vir Ppfcsrdrnl Un Chi Minh, with

offerings mI jill tjJtMS -uck ^ before :t

L dskecl u J 3 l

-

ii official about That pi«, tuir

He said* "We El, they ;ill haw urn? He is

their hero As you see, itp

s a-knud 01 religious

worship, and how can we object to cJiitH

^

Everyone i> I'm- to worship 4 - he liki 1 -

\E Ehe end of Ehi> sobering ride ut rfitcm!

the iinerd ptanohig room of Mr Bodiicnt;

i.'hmitii^cn, I iQvern&f ol Sakon NAkliun. Thesrttiniz reminded me nf i he Ministry 01 Na-

tiormf Djfvehipiticnt back in Bangkok Aroundst targe * unit! rente table were men represtftt-

ibg ilic goycmmtnt^ effort lu do somet h in jj

about the Communist*. 1 uskurd what they lEJiI.

The mi i Etary MDt '

H drMobi fe fievekppme n c

I nit, built fugd$» dug wtlis, helped farmer*

Ithprovc t rr.ip:-. Huir I imiii-n-rri l th lhr sick

A Ti u, i *r \ ta ^k rat L'd R u raJ I 'ev 1 1

1

1

m ‘.era I . w \l>

i < rvitian pm cram, doing much Lhe sanio

floth were advised find ^dso |uul1,v financed

by Am- ri- an aid officaiJs, and protected h\ uirl'M, or Civiliiin-PijiiiT-.M I fcgrj unit, TheI at ter incJ uj led an infanLr> b u±taj ioi i

,;ti [ y hv \ \

ik. a I > Army caplaui

Tomorrow said rhs- governor “\nu ran

^ce u- on i hr job."

Nr act morning we drmc from the main mjtd

to .i so-called .wcunly road, then Ut a just-

liimbed Min? road, whil h led into: an Annroad still under cor^trqcfjuo, Ami SQj lWPill iH> u.nirs 6rtmu Sak rm N ik ii mi. we walehe d

\nmrif.an liLitiLliJatoa and gmters dustily at

work, experik handled by I’hai ipage v6i,

The Thai ofUkLd mccriu partying u> said

'*U f!h good A mcrEcan equipment like this.

We can make a good mad tn k\ cry vil luge in

ibis pruvim e Then the people will be hiipjsy

rod nui iliittk about Ii ummunUm But if Wr

should l.i Live problems with CommitnliL^, wcci add send in troops in iX fcW .minulc-b and

5upp>nf3.s them."

The Tond had nearly reached .i viEJase ot

-uuiit- -iil hoLi^ arul wc wfllktfd rlterttii hay

(-hniKL h ifart tn fl ill TUrnaccil

h\ :i isiedk cMiEliirLt-

in ^peiumi ntnLhcr eii Hum 1 L:.i

Hi Iii-IilSUi- 'nil [V-ifilr -

Tfcatn. u gnvi rmnftnl Unit (hill 1 I

-Iff miihiliye are^ triifi fiut'h ^tv-lets iii iti^cIu'nI lj4, hl'eaUw-k van-

I 20 u: cllliji Pin., n rvd esfl of hi ish-yiithl wru

lug™ of Hu Hat Ie:< smndsirm l ine Com nmisliiLi

f*nm i-Eiinic hook> idi a

Ji4(Pfy ofCoinmllnkl terror

member* of n arenpte

?

s

A^i^mnr« Tnim «chii tike

thej wj[| dtrtiib»

ate Tfec pimp-hlrt* rHdiii"

hi-u Um- '-.’i mmiLJiHi - luri 1

yuanii irtro ?: \'iirt|i Vi el

Nam, indoctrirLate Ihem,

1 1 iris ^ c 1

1

lJ Lhnm bark hr

subvert ihrir frlli>wr

; Pnu

Mmsnt: re.-j^Liiskr, the

Krri.1- i jfE i.n ii'rrnr

pat nwmhers tmm ia

§Jie Sum dl hut! tervr onJy

Itl Ih-Tlt HiLlitT Nurthfi-t

'.m cmun iii i ijitxincn b>

liiL t illflgi'rjH

Vj -yM 1

a.

^ f 1 i % milh p

%i y

Ip i Q**

jL'.Jf a kiy^4 .A

ffi jl ft• “ L B*v -J

m.Ht .i

i *1Pjl > fc« 1

L 1Jtt' 1

* ! m -i

— ftftn IPtrIt -JE, 'aj, j r - Ivij s L 'li l|b^^prjB|

TS frTTv* JPrflEr/ «ra

.

s_^

1 *V, PI

iff

Tt 1 \YHnJ fAtm ) JB

f MBmL j .1, HHc ^ftTl

Jl p ft .‘fb ‘'iSfty ML Ph- -B

1

Id n i

15 ^TVOHk H|,t\. Hi-bp j

•jbItf jB jBP Ja I jar 1 '^r £

hi J1 Vil >^A\\

Cjimy dii-tlir* vjiiiE^ amS hew cuts appear as n jgjfcchfrff sbt^vtf pff hut da*- in 1

1

s . i

Hat A Fdoplr * ,'V^t-l ;un t Tcum distributed iht <HJ*nt—Whh tl t hr rfitidran pulfrd mnphi mer ihdr fcitd i lirthr* Thai I. m ivc*mmc nt- in the pail kid Jittld conUirt wEfli the

Xorlhriut, :imt. im a re>u3t, iihtlmMi Tl.uid h‘Ji trw tie* with Bjins-knt Now the kingdom

m-lii - prriflT.uFL- Id IrtiUrl rn*uL and »dx»htH eiMih pnl ice and *fm> prnlei!tl<in t rik;

wella . 1714 L spiff alert the iieupLe Lu Cfettifnim^t tai:tks

Lit

f W I n,*1 if% 1r*1*^ »m u 1 fr ;i

sin w TH1 j— " I

+m —«P *€ * * J * *l K'ij[ L + -“-**

* -Lr » ^{- j

I if ." Lji

-f-- ill J f VC.l-iu

, 1

,

,.

* * .iijL ' „ I

i * 1 , C *1 1 L

.; £W7.

1/ 1 > ,.

.

* ,

(‘Vn‘ .;Vi* -

. .

J

' v J* ' - 3 ! Wi

‘jj*

-

(f

•/» ‘ A -•'

- &1

%

f 4 uKn the waler I here urc fish, in llir 1 i l

-£p_L* \hvni u rice.” ThJfc 4o»rrlp4i*3Ti at ^hn&diLficc from ji

Thai king uf w’vrn crutuHcs lik** hnJrt* tfttt Iwjay A furl rarar 1 In mighty Mekong River tife*1*1 full of ti«h. ( iiiiiLiK of ril'e *nEfJlfp£X behind her uwai\ T faii^dii ratify

i71

Hopes and Fears in Ildofning Thailand

w .dermH ofit This ihe sejsso d . to ut i X was

hard to gei diem in market over the cmmltrail The mud wntild help But wh:ic ill t- vil-

lager- desired far more Wis -i wed.

The tisTii ini s-aid "It is very hard to dip

udb fitrfc + and we have no equipment now.

Perhaps we can build a reservoir later on U e

must make a survey Kii>ht now the program

for walrr not impurLonl im the mint"

L heard much ^riundfii talk about bow lo

iii’t more out of the soil, A hundred pnimch

of fertilizer could mean an increase of 440

pounih: Hce per acre. An psperimerual

growing .siaifoQ bad demonstrated r hi-. Vowthe task wil-* to convince the farmers.

S\mw Fin‘ld yield* Rife and Fish

The Director (jeneral of the Department of

Fisheries tn ftanghuk. Mr. Frida tvurr:L-ulP

had Lome to Sakon Nakhoa He pave mu this

pre-rii|iiinn

“Ten days after the rice seedling jre pi apt

v<\ in l he wv i c er. dtp a ditch it fool deep on one

Hide of the fields ? nd well îve you same carp

:n i d tmsimtm*. Bv dav. when thi? -shallow water tori warm for the fish, they

1

! I stay tn

die ditch, ami by night E key'll -wim $0 i^'cf

1 lie result will he abend IQp r»ounrij uf fish

per sere—plus 40G additional pounds of rice.11

Held shut been demonstrated tno?

“( ertainJ) iThe fish eat weeds And they

fertilize the soil"

Gwcraor Bfldaenp i muted u.s to see a pat,

a People1

* Assistance- Tc»m r the liiEtM thing

in i i uintc r- i nsurgent y . A hehcopler Carried US

into the hilh railed !Jhu Phan, meam nr “for-

ested mounting ' They were one oe She main

(.'ottifnimht birieuuLt in the Xortheast

Our flight to a small village took st-vem

in : n P E es Thf < I a y 1itfore. w hen th e PAT needed

a replacement bulb for their movie prujector,

at bad taken a villager four hours on horse-

back In gel lo the nearest toad, to pick up the

new bu.li requested by ni'Eio

The fat mm wore blue denim ami kepi

their weapon* dewe. 11vi\ had been terribly

busy. repairing house n .inti pulling up pesters.

v i P.tt EiaircitL- to men, thread to the womenclothes and shots to everybody. They had

hush a little earth dam and suggested dial the

villager', add vtancti later, -othc dam wouldn't

hi- washed away when it ruined, again.

1 met the villus spirit doctor. He led us i ri-

r. i the forest, i" a \m\ house rooted with cor

rugated iron. We were in the preserve n f the

ph po&Ui, the- protective *piril of the vdkigr.

Tlu spirit dmTivrlit a r audit1 and prostrated

U1

liiinêir He Euld iJhe spirlr that we bad comefrom fto other place

4would the spirit mind if

We A iiyed a while anti look piiiunfi? Wouldhr Jet u^ In1 happy b apad protect

Later, thu spirit doctor tuink u- to hi* ownitosiK. lb; said that if sttaiipm Mted to pas

respect to Lite fpirtt, somethmsr wpuuld \zo

wnmg, 1 wpn nitibL-: apo, when the PAT people

b£l up their rmivir tqtiipmenl. tlkr bulb cx-

pluded. They hail not been able to show any

films Ibai nitthl

Tbe spirit doctor %mi\ that unfortunately

he had been away when the fat arrived, "r

hr w < i ul 1

1gladly hn\e infu rined tht : pirit

Latst night every bndy h rkr| unjoyed the

1 111 J Lf Lit u|

itL-r- lifted LIS over ri'kre iulJj

another vfllage. Xo hi^ti ufikinl had been

there before. The governor planned lo slay

i iv 5-i kill lie li^ - ; 1 1 i *. tIjllI ! : i iI Hi ill iu:i :-'

am dn ?

i scart him Vmit-rll C ommicnists were

known to be twu miles u\ the soutbwgFt

Our l li 1 1 -. j pt tT ^3 j u L tie J b ul k n 1 1 1 )rth . and

load hy load, all 7U mem Fjits of ihr PAT asmem Ltml «ut down tp work, obtaining Lutnrma-

lh in u i ts i r h t viEJ a c er- abp d I agin g -

The fat tftpUiin reported lo the governor:

The Oiimmuolsk had held a meeting hcr^-

two nlshfis biifnfe, lo iuinuunct our commit

Tesclies ii LfS-nim in Fulitie*

The governor maile a speech. The Com-munisi> -aid the gn vetn merit impressed thi-

fnaoplci in 1 (Jcclarrdi ijut the government fra>

helping the people. The ComTiitmbti stiid thi^

tolllUly hud been Strayed to ibe Amen cans

hi it i ei far ' E luu I an 1 1 w xs Tree, a_- 1

1

had always

been f'he Americans Were here So hcifi,

to enslave The rtaJ ciifrlaver^ wtrt the Comtmmihts—the Red VUrtnaitTr-i . ihv Red t'lu-

ticii- , , a Any questitensi' Note,

The governor said r"Jr'a^s out the clothes."

A wnriLin m the front rou- said, **i loot!"

That evening, in the clearing m front of ' hr

school house, the FAT set Iup 4 mo^'ie screen

The movies drew a gôd crowd. One film woîn i 1 1

l

i r .l mdtliim, a tnuJilti mil] ij_r - -iHU

play, showing how Communisti came wiib

friendly words, then terror] zee! with guns

The captain gave the governor aiiutfirr re-

pun Five vMUgETsr wer? known to he armed

( mlc man hurl my>tyrioii^y left the vilJagit

T'be audience walked hame, carrying torch-

ci, ',uv\ we beddaf down jn ibe ffiEkouLbmi?t?.

More news’ 17 buffaloes had disappeared

Riistling was common, buE not IT at a

tfrmL \\\r- thi* n Red ploy lo enibarriis- She

gEivertior'J Or to draw away r.ortu' uf utif

In tbtf dark the miiLaijt fiddled wit b rhr

t&din I v k L ii

.

1 1 . i r i i.i

j

\ the Communal **V#t1

1

"f the Fôplt: hi Thailand/" ^pouting propa-

gaiidit imm Red Chinn. JWarmonger L> ncl-iri

Jofm±op. I rmidt Pfripas" “War cnmirnii

Dean Rusk”

li wiL

$

n ilûriLMirlipK night, bui wish .1

end Tin buffaloes returned >l 1 I'.iwn

Hur hid Leo pi tr had seared them away.

] traveled 1 m t hr 13 1 4 y h l hr Norl beast, rtJ 0 iii c

1 fir high bank- nf tlit MnLhcr ki vef Mrk-c.mc

I visited mum wai> and I .lnnn I

men in Litown Lit1 ret- phd rtd brretl

wmt black bfcrtf& and were advised ta*

\miTiriin- 111 green l!n, ri ,

i>

\1 n*S I > iittk1

1 o ( be bonming t uw 11 1 Jt l I 1-11 n

RiLidiatliniii. near time Irouliteapinr frantkt

with (.’iimbodiSa \ E>oridt :

e

dispute had tHnjn

formally Settled* Im 1 mlVkniiurs, I wai luL(l r

wen- still seeping through. I drove past the

big airbase n r,he nut terminal -tart boardedthe evening Jruiti 1o Bangkok,

\i mjdniglu the tram pulled Into K hnr.nl

Hieft Ibe piived FritiuUhiji Highway h rid peel

the I tm ks. stretching north .ill the w .iy to

t -ao>- Nearby bugler I .1 haiz airbase and the! S Armv': L>th Logistical 1. uiittmimd badiii- kpiled equipment fpf an entire infant n,

tlftnUicm, just ;n ease

.Ai e

I

n- 1 min jjovffed into dawn, my nirtrinnes.

kepf me atvnke-

Memnnrs of ibe island nr I'hukeL downsmith, where Mr J-iiiJjphfc McNair from Aabtu-

biiltt, Ohio, waut m cliargi- uf I he new tin

crueller. He hud sHith

"Twor&t! irixh kettles Wfn? shipped inAcnions upmeet: At home, we d mi* ,1 sf.Mun tttuir

Pi unload them 5 1-erc. rKi crane They told me,

don 1 worry*,well get them <0 the smelter

-owner nr later. A week I pier tlnw 1 Ini I'M

tiever know how ih\ry got them cm those two

id nit'dak ulnni^ 1> ii-liry ['liim-

Miniiii-i Pmpas t h;irvÊttNn on Hit* King’*

birthd:*.) He Elko serves u* Mlmjftir of Hie

ini t nor nnd Gatnmandtrr lb CMef of the Ajinj

he Loaning for § imu|<Pf a 1 'lunexe near ! :i_tj p;

in v a >sii:k o| im: i:n ti.1

\<i up In hi- water pipe

toaliii Irifu'STiiun of il 1 • tir-Tth^rn Mb 'msil

with MUiiJfi lojidrr .toil rc.il*. <hcsitlscd sWCifd

Hih oE srker i 1 i l wl’-JiJi. nl « L.i-u.

whose irJ-besjCTple dwell in ridggCop ^tlJiii;c±.

Bubble gum wplucw betel hw ;i Mn-iemmaid ol the usoeemusii -vaîiitrS MaJay

Huss ^ in the hair lid) Unit Ihi i£irl 11 m- tour-

Chinns Mui. friiuwncii for b^jiutliful wunirn

c - • ULi StrH.br, Jt til

rk

~

truck*, They reulK are an ,imaging ppîplr .

11

3 thought. nt Lhe 7S- Year-old princes who-inked so well I hat -hr Imd recentU bean

I by thr royal h muse fluid in prepare a

meal for ihe visiting King of Itanmark. Slit

k l|

<l putting: morr at her pfmR beeng on myEiiiue, hi 1

r m m i n g gl o ri rs I riw

\

• n haStvr He

r

Scrnie Highness kept ûvinK»"LYuu rnusi yatr"

JuhI. like my meat her

And him could I forget the fittlr novice

who watched a_- I tuJked with the lord tibboi

in Thai PhariiMn? 1 mktd him what mitdr his

jitniic so wide

“Vtiu h" he1 slupI

4You arc so big and ftd and

t nl kii live.1 ’

H-ain't he nwi .my bitr,tat, talkative ThM?

"Ndl in l hi* hiw it."

Perha^ I hadn't smiled l>a* k widely

enmiuti, herause he added quick!), "Hh yes,

some here arr fak and souse do lalk a lot

bill h rifle like you'”

Would ihcê capable, kind people fall vic-

tim in the political mLtliannnrio erf n;ur age?

Huy til ( loTinnund Iktihcfc the Spirits

Al thr end of my >Uiy in Thailand I was

ushered into ChdaiLidit Palace, die rc*idrmre

ut Kim: Bhiirrdbol Aduly^dej'

Sitting in a l.uuls XV drawing mntfl and

dressed in a dark'bliie business iiaak Hii

Majesty talked to me oi many things—t>f

rmids T of cmpSp of p^ycholop "f spirit, nnd

of the tmjiortaiirc of I he famiU hi times of

diunpe. W lia! 1 1 u: tountry needed must. Hi>

Majesty said, was good mhduk And tbun

Htii Majesty (old mi- -i story

Veiir Mu- -ui timer pul Lice a I Ihu* Hin, along

rhi- CitlF nr slum. u. medical officer «ha hbwork entiling*:red 3i> t umxnlmists 13c- la* kril

l)ix m l- ;

l

ns In do what Hi* though t necessiiry p

and he was downhearted. Should he simply

sit by while i tiings got worse? Or ptrb*jw gu

tpBangkokand look (nhi?-iiwti ad vance merit *

Mi'- Majesty heurd uhcmt th.]^ tram ;unl

wenl to see him 1

.

i4l save Him ihe funds he

needed And 1 -aid t>u him, fc

J forbid you io

become discouraged'1 11

V- my fiJiiiie rose from J Ion Mining Airport

,

1 ~aw die -.im burning away r hi- ha/t from tJn 1

mj.u Her howl If only thr political haze

would lift fro mi -ill Thailand. That morning

I bud heard that the Comimiimii had become

newly active dose to Bangkok, too. Then ini"

tuv mirdcntnc ibe words of the Kinu 1 turbidr

you ru became di^rmi raged 1

1 was going Home to u fax- nwây rcpnbtic—

but I would often think of Thailand m i!ay>

tip come and 1 loo would gladly hrred that

royal command, t h t £\n

England's Scillies,

the Flowering Isles

By A I AN VILLIERS

tthisinjmmx hy Nafttifwl iihofogntpht'f BA1ES IJ 1 1 LLH ALLS

Lite a Pi-ed Pipw^ farmer fulling a lu*rny wv\kx hirr- fopnHftg gitllf u> 5 rtt?wrr fklil lift

iht bliiJid uf St. ffiAiy**. Huish Tirw.n. tin? Inutilet-sue capita! id t hr lik* i>r Si illy, dssthe hill bryrrnd. Warms'll frv Gulf SiJTfam waiirr*. FSH inis’* ikiHlo blofiis Like ,t -

'•

1

1l 1

1

I 76 wintiT and draw ll hunt nl iim-mnd -p-wd hivi-rs in -urnnict

EACH YE W the* hiidk thr hotel,

same rijpin for the nest year—suae hed T

IoQl if they am act it,' said (.'dpt \A .i

 Is!

I unELJ nil pmudh ,jL the pint size bu.-dinv

h®rW u f Hugh 1 ow ri,^ t Miin '

-

hum: qucm- of iim-bniiL'd vfeitwr* *welined i.i

1

1 .l1 sin' tie put' lilt jitum? ?*teps kmiinff

Im liic husky open molar litiinr hes fhal serve

the islands JVrHy w-mnn-. In beach attire or

l hi' dn iM-c^t at xbuNs hurried duu^1 the -loot1

quay, -lieijherdinp their chflrJri'n, while tile

menfolk * nmed picnic fofistwl* };tm-p^i. kei

J

with provender Sue ji week. ttojltnen with

: lrortg faces hushily bewhi^fc^red ;ind wind-

Wththe t ud to the to1or of oldmahogany whiled

it they helped their oistuniera aboard.

Yw these v^csdioner.s the L-iles of Srilly

i pronounced sOlySi 'inly 2$ mites from the

T.rnlHiw* slLjm dp uf TilnghijiC arc n liri'iun-

world arrhipeLi^oi tmnp h pup? LU), Thr eli-

matc is unique ill the British isles, in winter

ft L> itftwfl US warm a* Lht^ Riviera. Brilliant

dowers bIon pi in January, -iJirl i n such pro-

i ijj-iini> that 'hip/Eient*. ru the Kndtah market

art the Saillie.^ chief export Bur ith*svt id I,

the illy d wellers* an? ktfed by I he isolated

hrnchfli, the quiet, and the p&LCti. l ticse

diiihm make the Sd3 lies the favorite holiday

haunt of rS,(XXi visitnm a year, among them 11"

li'Ji WHi.ln*! *u * ,iJ h i m Itl

- k

• J 1 P, vj 1

jf, „,*

*^

him ft * i ' / 1

Ifcr (2** AS-.d TOP r j—f1

hiHPr ‘ V

1

1 1

•Jr/ w:t" aa.

-JJ * P H

-» m_"*„ I I "JF

JP

A raJJ _

htMuv of vaiTAlicmt. r* 14ns linul l\>wn iiMin m an

aftefl' T'i 11'

1 1 1 1 1 '( MafV's th-ey wliiriiiU} pliant" ar -I

hdkrpttt nr -ait from Pcnzijnri?-. m -niithWPMPrn Tncliod,

«Ma£'42 csilef til JttfttiEfaUAfy rtHigh wall" In mifiTtk^f, ^Miciai

oft<m -uutnuiTrtier iht Scillies1

i.tfOO icui^lejLLs

Ruddy slump nE smi T wind, and salt fiuprhrtA Elbe- jwniuii tm £

11I bcMi ii^'ii w liti upcfql# it ferry tijmJ i-ijiuedhi; tcrvke he tween

?L Man sun! 1 l.r liuit-f i-!nnd* \‘:n iipatiu^ rew fc-^rc *-n wai- 1

they rttFiUc ;t \\<td jimvurl’K l nr tiyery m.tti whw Hie- ftaiuraJ

rifllE.ll i'll I hr S*Li 1 nU. 1

1

li l.illfr i ri 1

1

1;

0ri«l fcelji prm id* % h phtyChim; pri^yr, rdn Eji n or. re- ii

f iMirrl is I lv Ui c rnr mill) SLiLLuiilam Biiminj; eIlc in

*1one Jiu.rd jhL=-. ibjuy -hij n >rc3 the inl^-rjrh adi 1

1

• Biitiih I veto

titi> Bias ^rmiuu ’l 14-1 urn. Map, aawl Jttafefriiirc Today Kril.un.

imports Li* -rjdu Mr mnktb it vUt micdlly

I IS

1

n

EngljgrtTs Sallied, the Flowering

Prime Minister Harold WTbonhwho a

modes* faunipdijw inn il plot near Hugh Town.V ( aptaif) Phillip.' and 1 w litcheij, the

Lawn 1 1 l-.” lyinp five abreast at (he hartrctr -.tups

tilled up hh her- waded off in take thdr turns

Tht- sea was calm and the water hi dear 1

• oufd sec.* tht wu iinemi>nt> and liur nicks And-hells mi chi' whim ?aml ii

1- i!' there hud been

tu> water there at all Ashon: R0 $mok* rose

my where in vjmidge tSw ^ I tar dr imd thr

hotel?: and spiesthmisrs brtckinj: on. the bench

itkramH in ihe bright >un.

s )nl.stde the harbor the sea was a deep lur

I'luoise, deceplivti> j^enile in apjtcunima But

I )fnew dial dangerous cross tides rncsd

among the iiiyriad rhck> uni i-ldJ TheSatins iii' tuilr ! 4d islnnids^t'if which ini.lv five

arc » [j h Lib Ltf_ d no one has counted the FLxk>

Shades of blue in sky and hcadt'ttgJhEcd the

lib

c>l\ setting ofT the hard lErwiLie of the Utaiidi,

nnrl heather purpled the hillsides of St. Mary's

Gulls called to each niher nokil) in the mpin

-tTET-i mI Hugh Town and, after the moriimg

rush to the bar bur and Ehr bn. if- ihaL waSnil tht noise 1 he.aid.

Benches Aplenty fur Alt Wild Seek Them

qu see the crowds "*n the quay, the filled -

up laitticht^ said CsipLliifl Phillfps. hiil llwn-

.irt1 ftill plenb of bt aches for c vrryborh U h>

,

if 1

1

1 ll> find twti |ir three !•-.. p!i already on .l

bL-ac Si . they jusl walk on in the next11 Bui iiiir Sc ill its lire spall We Hun'l warn

in Lxct too t^opuhvr Thh turner wpeTve even

had li few qtiL'iie- Wc don> like that

The Sciiiy Island* are Indeed small. St

Mary T

-,, UitEfc-t of Hit 1 ilili.u ilnl idiilirts + I-

two .ind halt miles lume m a mite and a hsitf

M| i.Tt*MlfWIPf ri Hilt L7TUHU1 ^ 1 « %

I' u 44

L

bnojur More than 1,400 people live there pcmoneotly 1 hr

ol her inhabited island? ;in B all Thun hall' >t Mary'- Ait\

wi i h Pia rrily moretitan 400 residents imtotig i hi* k i1 ! n anrictrt

liiky- men oKis lived on Knrru1 of the l$l3tids now Hivra up to

?c.d- irul m'4 In r 4i- , Lt- BroiUe Aire relies attest

The Reillies group h purl of this I hiehy of CornwuR Mir <-

tli c Dtike 4 3 F Cor rswal I is nl ?i t be Prinre of WaJcs> I h l1 bl .l mis

provide some of the royal revenue1 ?

OdiEJni pnb. - is to keep 'he Sell I its in their trampdl bc>-

1 . li i

b

lm Nmis’. ni^hi lift and promoted taurif^j lltc nmwanted Holiday camps and t rni I «. i jurk? do mil exist. Theiminmubik has become o minor problem* however, for the

hi.mliL-r ni motor Ythicl^ has risen sharply in recent yea rs

to more Lhmi JStt. St. Majy's has nine mik? of paved

roLtd^aJl tinrrow, w i odinu > btdge4l uedT pin is nrdstnirtU for

die florae, demanding careful driving The other islands

have virtually no roads Among Iht M Ultes Use \mai s- the

car and the motor launch The bus.

[ here are three way? m reach the islands \ iso may comeby sea, by flOOdon motor ?hip from Pbn&mrp, some 4J: itnli -

awav in the- itiiffcwt orF Cornwall Vou con sail in a small yacht

From Irdand, or [ranee, if you am .in cpl the

m'

$li')] pi njtS ^ 11me i hitc 5-: !

i pjit-rhr*" k-

erifd Rrvm‘[\ Trewo, St. •Helen’',

and Hound Islam!. with it? Iklit

hi>u-e hi rhi- dkstiiiiL't;. litr hut N

mile* Irem Kagland's. Miuihwcurn i

tip. Ojh e, tLNfh li li^end, .« fountni aJird LynpocEsr linked the SeiI lies

with hngkihd. ami *>r, Jk- maw-v 1

3

lie. bed §ol1 K i ria ArtNor'* km%huwait'd HwMli'

.

lp id a.i>i rebellion- Mr

Mndtiii MtriiMlu ui^rd, rhont-

eil monk words that mndr l*ytm-

nLv^c -] citL, djuWni&g 111 \i refrn1 !--

Th* k light* fiUTiii nrftU ur. litefci

ground todays SciiltuH

M sir iriiivi- I.'. S I W , rv1

?

4mt even iht Mauitlerf

i It if!- One iftatft Boftrl Rrilish

f j|r(icf4 jhaped it ohiul L Si ^

Much mists shroud Hygh Townfi? if hnileirls mcr 1 a liny rloir tttfO

tidt limsJjlEfi >anck

til! l AMi /

9 CORNWALL

WA i i 5£NCIAND

‘f'iSJimff II.

.PIv-uLhStJtogJffii *hllr r c* '

,Fk 1 ^

o/ySuy ^ ¥E!I ^ftWB

Atbuttk"rtj-piiiT

JlfUlT^vyrwrssrrrs W«l

Bi lA.JLlM

f RANCHit*

1 fr.vPar:i3

in

rn w

fiijni vurd uf Hrfluln tin I--: - |,:

<iriU> lire 11 i,i r ux *qurm‘ unites n[\uui' thr indigo

\[JjinL]i. Nu Otic kmdw¥. fur Mire the urWiti ol

LlU'if nunw i>K tbt'nry Imldn dial n rScnvp- fram

i fd'jp, u\ <Virm-h wtird for cnnipir cd mnatbrr

la^npra MTillrft, I for #S*flkcn nn'ks i H MM

i-kin«brT Si Ulohian^ anJiiaJjsl miljf fiVik

Si, Vbr>'\ TreJiMf ^ Martin’*,

SL A|i-nj-^ :i n r I Hn ief.

i n* .

I

AMS'

r.'n^ CftTrifli

G ui irttefli GW*Brjfkir

The.V

jLM

SamSftr'*

,sr. Marffn

i

'Whffi hfawS

i

.

* -l^hflrTnvwni

fAHTr^ '-LJ ,

Thrice &hbr\r

^ a MwjS

:V-L

'.iJc:

frii-m,inrty |fil

rITtf

?A:riA

fTJvWV*v-S *

\V'lI

;"«h ^

a&ra

PWdleSt.

Isles of Scilly

i. t^hWloui® i CdirAri

_ Burnt! Ci’ki-rsi^Tl

i rtN-j T-e-1* inn p^^i'mir. 1'1 f (-r~

kj: Nk s-P^ii * r i ,i T pi pis i s h

m n 1 1| i% i I] nrer-fl iV i« |C k‘

1 f 1

1 -

i *1*!++ I IR'r

£ 1- r v if n h n i.i^i

<

i ;i si

„

Kinrlnv- Want ! Si M.ir

111 .LlkC- tllllffikiil* IjliiMiiia .Ll

hi* cnmniaurl V r rw- ! ^lect-

mn plain i I ci 1 llr Imj4. Ilr

iemulate:- Hirst blooming In

icirifti-nKunf control ScElv

fltiWtff Jifcrmr.rs -e 1J ahum Sri

mii'imn bJoofm n v.^-rar T hrce

of Mr U :n r|‘ | iriie w minTjj-iprar in disrf-tlji LLl'.iVt

fewn nipt. Wjiitf Linn, !:bs-

hiiiiter. anrl Pcuhcrth

W h n i ntrwfcqi « I dqffttcf l \>

to I be islands? Tim e- tfb-

sdireii hks irletilily— a monk,

[H, rh.b.p '»

1iir i iiRintisa: hulcb

'^;i tii]rLiiin tbmdrtx -iiy

thuE .1 hiitboi nl 'ini-

L, tlufFodHs E,r-:nf !l ru.u-' '

in (jLiTiiinn about HXi *. ear

>

;niii ill spine r! tin- in-

tiuhlry—

j

rrmin^E.iv of lIjl-

eameTTiy by Ehr [^30^

ui

HwUliing, Mtii ikl Decornbtir duffmlfls i .l L t-ciitLith Ik \tnr"

;iii> a •, >ur

riiUHiird hr iwnw d h right Hmver ami blur w iti.t ^dNiinitsns Imhi lo rtwi 1 boaU anO

-i

1

1 p I'm % will' vH'i-if ill F.v^pmm j«nrtci::l plunk1 front mv*wic ivJiuL* Mlhouisb

nrden-tl b\ tka Briddi Liovemmun! 1j> raise umn ve^ftahlif? ussd fewer Row^« during

U'iiiIiI Mar IS, t(il| ECt -.muI bwtlig bl to '( iu'- i hungry KnsrUlod

il '4 ?#! -l u^-i-ir 1L t—|—

|

tuning around Line Admit h alinUM always

offers id I hi pm' tfatws Or you nui fty—Irani

{’erttwre* a JO-tnbmte trip by hd'ionptcri nr

fmin Xiliv[}uaV In pbnu! lying Jh the wl memorable wiiylii comp

The SciJIies ari! nil rocks and Hills, itttr S: mint.'

has ft really Oat field oi jury size, ‘Hie one small

A ir i teh!cl s n u> t

h

t brow o f a ên hi S Inta

r

Hugh Tnwn A sign -ays, ”St \irpm-t

Keep m ihu Roud/1

which Htems a^ftmd ad-

h. iL'1- ^tortlielcs-s tn have Jir-! View uf

these Mes from the mr is idHil.

VMis I his. i he Fjififed LyîUL’fjttl

V my tihineratnenycTlhrm i-Liinbodi-T^

jinl riH bol 411^4^ .mid -emsed idkiiil

in the dent Wider E amid apisraihite hud the

inf,

i

j 1

1

1--. haw *a pl'a 3 bv*ubsi 1 1 cn r.‘t? nndstdftnva pr

SCflu srmy formerly buve been a, single lund

muss Impend Kelts thal the fair fields of

Lytmncssc once slirtthcd irum Ornw ill if

?

i hr Srilli^s, thwugh mhnhm< aver tb*d .hi*

I i nk w i i h E si d ami cn

1

1 rd kin u I a*fntr itwrt s

* fun l n u ^ ct The i • IliimU jre urn hiuhted I \ ;t con -

rlnmiiii n id die anuiifv harkhum d 1 unman,niiikini' a final ^hrutit abovii the sea tad'Cne

rfroppiiii; icirt'vcr hue the Ariaittk depths!J lVoph have lived hurc since lung before

the t'hrMian Jirn.r my banker friend <

J

ynt

Short of 1

1

uu;h Town told me AS we tramped

Si Mary\ nliuir^ (End lul Ir Mr Slinrt hTmM ,

ll

iti-iifies to Lht* Ûnu tion af Che SoF Iil-

Cnme mi i i"n.rr j1 "

1 vt-ath jjq JJad sliiyed.

h"Mc n m,ik hiive Let-ii hufe s'or LOO'MTarsp

nr more” hr said "WtM't L'm. almusi three

t ime h a x ma ri v know n Anne n I bnria I r ti amhert

:i*- in .ill tlw re>i pf t'nrnw al?—^ i^l ihttttt

Tln-yVi Suren hrfr .U loa^l two iind j ha]!

thodSiillll years, so the iircheoEoirists IttL ns.”

We w alked uver ihc tEun^ 1 And bnidtiHi

manlJed hilt^ on tkt spring# sandy earth

lh*l C6V0TB must of the gTAnjle. The purple

s

\l:ili \ jLIIiij tcflli ill !lU LFaVL‘l infttt '(^WT |i»

Crimîiir imlm Vmcmr Hid ni^-tmthh

].U

iieuihrr hiy u> (hick us in the liisrhbnds of Scotland, and yk'i Ifl-

Jlnwer' "Eiuli'ij jtUanusniL A drararlisl1

* light covered ihr Linrt

am! sal wcmnkTfully "ri Ehr LUL-ulhc-d blut sen Offshore a&w$k-Uni fttutfk tii/fil !?i Rjiujrhlfc huM i l IW i tmjkiUK

Like scalars nu i luwn- Hi-sh. fe&rteidy rinse r\\YYe snneiu

jiri^ for I hem; t hey know it Well" .--aid Mi Short ^

Quraf tor Immortality Muder Soil Sacred

Nnl«f4> i l- V\,|‘ lh sight .L:- Wti -11 'Mi'll I'i.-I 1 1. Mirk

iJuvun in I nnk ,d tlu: nttdrnt burial chambers tln-rt 1st -Nine,

which were oin'ci ixs-mJ for franatidn, rcniaJm of ft) or more*

huridJ urn* have been found The be^^firearrvtd chamberTumi*, a it m

M

im I -W let1! Escross und 5 feet hi*:h nuirii1 witblurue

lipriizht >lopev 1

1

1 :

l

i ieiu- 1 h;ivu taken ji Ini of mnnhnnrflmj;"

J lu'ti js itlicLii-vjli.il Uark !it the Ito itch ihest'fcljiirb

were it imrinJ place for dislc mi niched iIim-J the lûntk M the

Hlemd* or tltt Kitrumtttt teles/1 Mr Sliwtsafr.E HTlie kfcu was

i hill dead chiefs an ri other hernia tmaEd find immurra-lity heroin sight of the ^4 . among srrnw of quiet beauty

"

1 knew nF another theory— that tin: Srillie* mark'

m

ideal

liunal pl.ru- fur i hief> toci. iLLf-« the tm h-iiL-hrlit-

l

kd rkp irli-ij

a Hint* ii iljLi I eh ii crtis.5 ivulur Those chic fs Were u/ten turbulent

c hurst t*ps One lifetime Would be enough nf iheui

£ h .ill thv frillies' historic ruoniL intuits, M? Short wa* rjcitJ

tuifhuskstk about one un 1 he1 small deserted irinud of Xomour

"I'.nirr, rbrn, if h *c jka

^

yno, and w eEtoirtrr tiivi^ a

plaque ai Tit- «l a Abbey iriKhtl,

a hump hi i ill ntfftr the $\Lt of

4 nitxheval tiiffcri^-ii.'t-e-Ty. \cwlirim^by vriJJatyc iJiiilcrr br-

vipntl re lI

C

PlHil a frtL^h-wiitrr

1 Like A I ?tb-teflitEiiy towertatln! I rum sve 1

1 CjUlle

tju&nfc 3 hi 1 harbor TIie man-dou ’

1

1i * ni^ - In Li I nTriflt

2 M Dorfwli Smith, H X .

Hiu delXh Uu 1 eland's fourth

Jesuit, whn iVtiiTK-L Ijeirtatb aportns i t of liix mrjii-giv.il

nns'lr Auptdh rjmith

\ Hertbirdiiliire vqufie, \ 1 1

-

IMMLIj. kii>ed .lL 3 line SrHIiffe

tiiim the E Vown in LS 1\

bif4 Prsiprii!trvr B liv I mill the

Ercut iiou-t.-c'E joe its farmon*

pnltlVi ami mUnducrd mm--l J li i-i i I in e He .jie<i| ,i

liEuzhelcBr and tti-e ttk>,

lip htt lies'll itw who tfitiyh

SjhlieiJ Lhc fewer IrKtu^lrv

V mni iL^nerl in ''JJ I

Sftv r. i lif Smith beint Mie ekIp

of Tre-j;ti fnr >'r ar>i flusiigh

in. t [3Ji j L-Lintm3 pjI dd&aiirJ tlie

n-iltn- irhahiTtil I’Lirnb nûwtth an ckdd rnursEi! AnOllier .inreL'mi'nt j\w ;in

|

i.-i| die

fflimfh ctrîody nf T h i" Si' iiI it'-

llni nh jihitei.L t - lajsd - 44 n J Ku. ki

Nation ill Geographic, July, 1%:13 fr

fiifSt oft SI Miirtiiv% r ntirthtTPmn^ nf iht in-

h îJ*j|itfc

r| fs)r- fn a heavy gLik from ah

unusual quarter eausei I îwu

s

tu w .l>Ji awa>|fWl of ihv Ijcinrh on Pfornnur. exposing a

series of upright stones tm^ceii l^diPtc, obvtiHoly inif thfcrr hy roan *pnizu 14J

)

a' \< HM>a 14- the -ubmili'i! . I im hi I 1 ,1 ti i •

i•.

1 1 1 uked carefully at IbtSfr * Mr Short tdd n»

‘Thtiy but ml LWti cufiuus brwcks and n

K 1

1

m cm coin Excavaiim rtv ta3 i 1 1 fM w<i-n >ombuild! ng with hearth? and inmli furnace:?.

Tjteft - 1. 1

1

hf-J - found tumv r> Nan 70 coins rad

i iuarly 4( JtI brivi jv he-. ill *= Roman titnv- Ttiv

place Wii? u tegular jewelers sltirr!'’

liter the found il was muchnli U* r III.in that l"bt' building had or Lin illy

been a Sforê Age dwelling; Iron Age ocru-

pant* partitioned it am! added I he heiurths

and fumaL'ei

Roman -era tradeis, daird hy i h c. i r Loini,

ail ot wbrchi arc fram A T>- to J75. i i:ne monathan a Thousand year- after the Bronze \tit'

btnJcltr> arrived, and abpuf 4 m >îir- after

tbi- Iran Age seldmAW h.u - r. I 1 1 ir vear> how these Jjdumii

may have been l!ll' Cas:dr.i: rides— 1 he tin fs-

LonJ 1-. m tlir nnoentis—how the Phoenicians

may have traded here and ibe Roman.* an lt

them Sin riv - about ihe Islam!* pf t he Blessed,

the Si. I ilia 1'tiMila whrtfti heretic Were laan-

ish-gcL LyoJinesAGtami all thu ra>t havr been

bks&cd About for coni Lines Bui the pJwrkrrX

store cm the beac h at Norn our is real Three

hundred brooches ? They weren't for Inc 11

Vi i Oh i] in|Minn This wtl- an undent I railing

Liljure Such a discovery has never l^fore beenmade in Britain/

1

(cwdiir'i Clientele Et Pia?*]*

E found many of the best finches in the

small roUi-um at Ftugh Town One cmitm*fin iliKe-and'emmiel spririmL'N is shaped like

a hnr^Pt with wing- growing froni h s!u ud-

ders :tml a fish's toil.

J hr t uni tor showed me . splendid u heel-

shaped bruocbf Inlaid with mmute cnton'il

•-Mm"-, pojfe h m T'hsn pputkulnu pier *- %v:v-

probahly mafic at in what is nowEh-, Lium. in a workshop wbh II nstperfc know

bumet 1 1 h ?\vn i n t h e mi ddl r 1

1

1 hethirdcen i n t y

I wondered wh«m tht? jeweler of Xornourfousid bia> b ^ Perlmp- jt«> une \\ all e% er know

.

tor thh L- min: pf ' 1 1 *. m LLnv fLiscinLLllit^ my*,

i*lies Wit h w h tch the Forte i l;* [ i I a fir.nmi

I lower Industry Fhihe^ i M winter

J-rmidty may him lieen prtnuini of rn êil-

lommn trade lonp ago—ami. Inter, highly or*

gammed smmujrEittit and the more prosaic kh*fan r: v. and kelp burning ror sudAd*b—but for

the past yeurs l he spring-dower indu^tTi.

i-i-. been u miiin-Uiy of the felMids. \hnul a

hundred yrant ago on enierprising |ol ;l! reî-

dent first sent uff ; l hnme parte I u f Hnff'rtHiU

to "i srkei in London and goi buck half a

crtiwTii Tlm^ hrM bum be5 h tbe> say, reac |i imI

Covent Carden in u battered old hnibos. hut

when the hotbox W^lfi otieaed* the shining

gulden Bowers msfdc lit up even the fgjpcsof

the sj.Usrten, SrrlluTfjail Inffodils lidiL1 been

firtnaani! hizht and warnilh to u.i-itrr Engliihmi nn^ ever since

tr

rtiui pioneer really started something

The lingTe hatb^sful ha? inertiiv,

-Lfc

il to SO tntt-

liuit blooms iu -s mm —handreds of tun- ut

fluwcts, all iTown In iht Optn/' Mr kudhey^Varrl nl NiLrmimdy on St Mary ?

s mid ii"

ipace l.tJ'h AEr Ward is the grandson of

W 1 1 1 E :i 1T1 B.lfrneM , &h Li LI f Nn r rHU rrlv, one of I tl I

UOB ^

best m take up the Ruwcr trade Air Wmd b1 1 n ted ,is a deveJojier uf pew lypec qf minimiand dafiodib. for which his firm, Rndrkr^' WW.'rd & >an r Ltd., holds many pn/es.

“Here i lmanc, an\ t ud maybe something•

I -i - not jo easily recopiizabSe—perhaps -ueiic

quality in msr sunai it .—mn'liiiu in

beautiful finwer^ L^pcnrUlIy wonderful ti-r-

etsN Thejf bluum uiirh and the> tmvel well.

"Our season bogim in Nnvcmbar with ihc

I irntidful Sottif dor oardssps, îves u- the

Magmfiizem'e daiTddil i J i Jnnns+ry 4 and ends in

May with irit li , inkr> ISO.iW bulbs Lq pbmterne jm fe, ftfld we have acres in hulb^ Snrhtre is a lot mi i ;hhmi in it, And work !

11

\\i' were seated comfortably' in rile |i4r2:;r

jiE Xumiuinb Kor I ne> WardJits wife* hj^sL*

ler-in-law and .i yuiing nir! irom Hoikipl b

bulb indti'atry,over Eli learn hnw thiiit!- arc

Uncreding n Gve-iuol marauder. MuLtN^w l 4?thbndgfc tugs a ecitigcf fmm Ofttcrf thuijl

i luli>ttT | nit:- he SiiiuU d,Jiih nrf Rock Like -his lather biHnrr Iieto, the loli^termanl.t a voUrnTtitf coxswain of the Sl Mnfj r

s lifeboat. Which ttill snatches mari-Iier.i imm 1 He M' a '- fi i

rv Rtr duly, W he li the Iji n fctrThnVy ( 7fl n yrJ-n fiiltd 0 p aiear i'l it £* i llir*-

,

Lei hi 1 1

1

11 Hr and Nk iTt* V» to Ike dcSChU II i- iiri I Hat WtdtpWWlill^Ry 4^j1^ 1'r>r %i hoUn

Hik1 picking up 12 uf dnr vessel ji Indian crew men, » j tic of whom LuiflL*d on Sr. Marv'--

- -Hi' I

done Ha the Srtlliiit, A* far the wtjrJc PI hud

seen >o met Iieeiiz o L' L h nt oj i vnliuu * v i sitv

—

tHrbaekhwskiiiiic picking b fling. cleaning >urt-

inffi and grading t hm bulbs; rhen a quick dip

irj bitidnp waiter i«> eradiate the eelworm£msme of (In- lifted bulbs are reftigefutcd

i' T Hjme Ei trse, to 3* ml them i e 1 1 « » beiti.ving they

have had winter told m anise them lo ilnvu-r

earfiLT Old lukIch*round furlMki forli

fled no lunger, are sited rm r. hi- |nrriio*e

Trim mini; ihfc high hedges (has prima l the

flower fields from uunih k un tuber fiuet of

iln work These hedge* ot vi-rnm™, escah

Eoiii^ and jiittusponim prou Up 15 feet midmake a lovely tf^klriboard of the shelterr*!

sides at the larger islands Without tfatfm. the

i rutile blooms would stand little chanceagainM the h«rrl Atlantis' gaJo.

Ei ilt we yarned aver ten. wr lookedLhmueh u ropy of tin GEOGKAPfnc for l>e

ceraber.. which hutl an artii U- m i the uar-

dftfi iak% of Srdfy. Many of the old color iljus-

Irutmnt -vit-ne mark- lit Mr VV.irdV lidds rtnd

1 J8

nE Rîsevcar M<ii Iilt we#jp thi1 fcmby ur

three week*, ibftlit the dm* stick adult hair

nrjjbu'c* vidriir infant I'm Several aray *?alf

£ uifiliE in 1 1 Lf ftrrry t '(iHTPfls dogglFip. oil

Wn* plucked [firm dir -ru ntT Cornwall amigtetn ii kith hy helpful hum mi hatirb

t ill 1.1 1-

1

-vy *d Idtti kes t 1 .

i

j ranjei: ru: i

I

’I u 1 1 then B€flj mm the ? torTfi

-

lÎc 111-*- Ii pu>fj|r

of Si Kc3eisTn Tlir.y ihpre ihr island**

1

smic-

tii.tr> ill i i iirteoTiwte, petrels .luL\ andU'dilM3 t n.-, wdl as will many EtturJ bird'

packing in him-:- Hu- Ward- n-nignlrtcd the

im - "f the petit*- ii.n-keri, the *4!iilmuLfcd!

mizn working the fields, %ml Si- MuryV lonepoliceman, fXv>w there- urn- two pulkgmett,,

plus a third during l lit! busy summer seasonJWe pun se £ I *nd

!y o sê r the pin 1 1

1

re >w iii iTiLj rp nnW dnurl; he wai Hugh rowti's

ML Ur?piiper, rittiLib Jtiul bulklin buiiril all rolli-ri

hitci ,i vi>i i Fei> iiis belJ-riiagiiij! mw Radlp bcommou tu-l.: und there ait niany bullfflin

I ins u nt»w towtl trier atrn.es an

Gidjd^n ( .rnv From ^tufiirvfs f -ils

%

Fur even mure Hmithtakiiiir finmf of ihr

iunv pruLu>ji.ui of 11owttl?d lêuuty in

the I-orl untile TsTatjds, you must *no ii.i the hit

called Tre^fu .iEirl viîi ii* foninstic Abbey(piirden? Trwro, al) of? ncfts of it. Ges m Full

vieti? of the n nitlate ur i afFSt Mary Gloriouslie ;iL'bc> and hivrly link Hii>% the metlievLil

sNdttS -it “i'resco Abbr^^ a cemph- of m tried

castles, sofne "Id iiuurd coltuees eon-

i 'Tied into ,i wondcmJ htwA— ;tdd tn iFiesc

I IrmiiLike pul (iii tripl'd pay r- ttih : I h

r

Si: lILh- : i. S III I4l1l Cctllury Kli£lL*h^

fnth ihie LsiriSi meat—iititf CtrttCii cal jl

La ri

|

l- I

>

i

1 n - .«f 44 in -'n hi- 1 Lav- kirn: Kftwafd 3

required an Amu pi payment el J.QD birds, or 6

4iiEllru:i. H pome* fmm Kstmtlph Htancm miter,

i lit*ji euplabf ei SciIIa hi^plle hw* pmErrlimi

the injintt^L their number!) slrsuJih dwiiulEc.

RiSgcvE of I III- mimiiiiili ihni breed iviKl in

thr MnLi=h tsk -, £tj\ siioi- Icill un xa witeheiJ

4mml t A t:lu 11 n mi 1

1

- >u a* Id i n g a- u Vj f iini I

mrigli n* much as 6JLQ ptMJuda.

pn* *- v* .41#- rP filer 4C31B BfllL . IITLI IiAlS I H JlJ.

ii man dmi- climate a.ntl fertile Hill, j rj E there

1 5 'I reico V( i zo by bcml , .ind w hi en you (tel

itien: ynu walk And We I hr; walkingForuLmusi Livrnbiry. i Mill I l^l.ihc Srillu,L

,irh- MrJtlrulInd by like- Smsth farmH . whu(iffle fruni lltrttnni^hiri! ill England n> I _.i i r !

Proprietor of cIm. Me? WirusUs Smith mtidc

Inis. Ei (i tut on Tre*co in the iS.trt'-i amt began

creatj ng the \bbej i * n rHchs I.- 1 and - eu nic

n

brought him plants*, rulting^, ami seeds (mthen inyîi. His nephew, T Algernon Liur-

ttUri SniiMi LÊ.ibhsLied I li r- flower industry

Genuiuiiiis Tower Higher Than l slanders

4HjiiL> lleii I ! rc-t' - grow here whu. h don't

grow outd* lor* any wluTr rl-r in Europe. Tlieyj

thrive in our mild md i-qmihlr dinudi /' -,o'J

I hr present npf^fihitivt1 ill the In mile. !,t.

I'onuk I M Dorrira retired frum the

Royal 7s \.ivy He leases 1 rescu and the umn-Jta b i La I i s! tint] - from t he I >U t; h y of l otnWb 1

1

V- we ^tfcil In I chi- UikilHl. it garden** I .saw

plants from ail over the wotSlI A hill just i>ver

I rsfj teet hcgti to the we»lwrartl gives .shelter,

as hir rt> any liill *:m in ikese Igw At lunik

iislaiids t|iEqit-s IMtS), whetr the wind is the-

eh^rtiy and trust.1- ;irr liurdk kraow o

Xtiir the ^3 id grnnilr house La Licit Anmis i ii« S mi I h ltow mi gan lie .does . e i j.c hh ptusesn aiaucana.^ bananas dracaeims, eury

bias, fEinini tints seven ft^t high, rfurie.se

ikipr r \

i L:ist1.^ , A3 Ufbn tn HI v -n r -th u -\‘u\ Lr^ 1 r ififc.

,

einniimon, mi rs k—ihe hsi seem^ r milevs

FLuwtrs ^pruui i’rum ibe rttekeries* like ^ctntlJ-

»iLnt waiter lumblinu down u brill iofit water

lail, iinrj the hues of mesernhrianlbemiiEn

shine iri wildest [irufusinn Si i li^t" : luiê

botanical .Harden with neither roof nor Walk,

vt-i in a man made sul it ropitai fares!—mad nil

thi^ -it 311 degraes north latitude, about llae

^skitu’ latitude as frigid Newfoundland.

‘"The t«iili Stream n>ust do ic(nrsri thu soft..

mild air> it Huid- cti— wlivn r Isn't blow ing

a gidf 'did the tommandfMr, like the -emtutn

he is "But I dorTl know whatc die t^pbrtaiit

•INpSirtil b Ml L J Le Hii.il. Nuborly dtH‘ - ItVim

t.i1

?

Ht-EEct ol KdEii.bdi tin-iev; Silvered

bronxc safety ]*m axî) wficd-ô|^tj

lirtMh'k bright with enamel jiltd inlaid

l iiLurv-il stunts. Ciime to IJidiE whm'jnehiifiki^ siitL'l Llie debrfa tin

NWnriiiT bttrich (firppttdiel Hiftgef*

it 1 1

1

;avert * l ill nil iît Ull J I inhw lit-. S i nit

hud Ifctn mode in oilier punt (U ch«r

K- iTTI-J-fl Svifipii’t h-ilifvirbt: lu Mir flirW

yf trade ihnt l«e rhed ilir Si il I Li:r^ dur-

ing Roman am i pal ion of Kn gland

‘The jewel it Trvjuiin tttECQVmd on r hi- ShwHsiifilPMt lhut Cdlit r4il]or§ used Nurrmtlr as a trading ên

id in i Kc ili? i af ftcime Htoratnltivcn -ut \ ui 196 1 rmtilpird

tfiir SiiinJ hi teVpil iLbrieifl liturtli?, hub, • uin% .leu I

SiroiM hi firruiar nlc»ne -Aral im? behind ntuulnijr iirchc-

fdogisE Cyril Short ol Hugh Towiu ft ratiwt banker, wuabemh olil lhtL Rfimuni vuniL- wU-nUiU rdiiiiiltr ft

hniJt -fiapr in the Bn nit1 Are nul: e I li.m .l Ibidt: iiiii.3 year-

before I fin 1 Tlie tij-i(i*li Ministry of 'fluWb SuikEsn^ Ifni

\\ iirk- ftpuittfiFvd I ho tt^5V4thin

II flilTi ITIl J -4i 2,1 1 s .

i. ii

J

1 1 riling. We h&Vfe thousands of specific of

ps Lint.!- Thoy ait do well lifts thrive beep, too,

pi^dbclE^ u : n i|Uiuî of honey."’

We passetj sun Arch nf the medieval alibej

a tnl i lio'-siv and suddenly there wis a

astonishing collection of old sailing ships*

flgUru 1 1ends . rui je1C 1 1 1 ian L-,.k n i.l ut her mar 1 1 imr

rfEn - t rom g low «>]«eir

i fronted build inn. mv,

upon mw of stately figureheads stored or Ihe

garden as i hf> omc had stared Hi the undies

m%:l IhHii rhe bow* erfTreat i ape Homers ami

little lm.i-lM. brijis tp.mt1 145 j.

Wlivl’s Fun Build* n Grfm MuHamnill be vlsl lnroiigbt them here," the com-

rnanrltr --aJti:They are all from li nen I w itib

— tVP 1 1-i v r rs'lpr- muv. 44 1 til thrui 1st tils

1 rLa v

-

T

uf <ail, tJu- nt- islands could be a death trap’

He pointed out a At itc-andiiuiîi liltd

toiistired munk from I he iea cHpjier fni*/

r<Mi kt driven nsbore In aj^le to the winter of

|H6|_ The mnnk lnoktd as fresh ht> on ihe d;r.

s h i 6*i a - inn clip f ir r wu - I un nvhd 3 . \ lal L <iin-

iiifieti lady i iLiU'lun^ a rose to her breast comefrom the tuf foar-m.isleil bark Ftiikhnd*

om^hed i\r\ Eii4nr|i l<iick in I'KIl \ Welsh

eirl tiimrchead is nil Thor remains oJ lh< fc

-i; Ei miner Jaw Osrro, met Cwmarvaiu1

1

-.i uii i;hi" d> L-p ladfii wilh a canto nf

W L1

1sb slate N'ît 1 1 ay,t wi i hr ns:, simtali a l ij can -

nojl recflJI the loss in (£75 of l

M

l1 lr;sn^;iikkntic

st earnshi \ * 5 « ^ a fUr an « I mrirc than AtX * i > r h-c-r

f

i

ksêngr rs. and < re v* V hundred r d them l] t in

.l ua-mmim.Ll p-nve in Mury^ churchyard

] siw no memieolck nf tile wurstitimgaliomil

disaster Eia ihe Royal Navy's history, which

occurred on the Millie-' Western Roykh lh

L 714 A ili-- J re! iimine from the .Mediterra-

nean 3 l. I ns; bcMjlnp^ in a Foiz Tbrtptf mtrwof-

wjtr 5ank and 2 T0U(i seewnen #oivmtd.

ÂuEEUStOi Smith !i itm eft tlsiv plitu- WlIIi.iI-

Ui." I he lommamlcr fiaid ^Voy nan sec why"

There are legends that the L-Uinilrrs were

not above profi t Eng fmnt W mi .lt> perhap>

.dsn emtsinjj: thenv l was inld of Lit prayer

• iBered repularlj. Ehc >1 pa'i-t]

ili urc tk in I he late I Kits ci-ailury that went:

"We pray Thee n Lord:, hcje i.hm wm k."

should happen but that if any wTecLfi. should

l;;ip|ujts h Tlltm s', ill £uide thetn snt'i the illy

Liu- fur the benefit of the pour isdiHluUnlf^

-The mhnbltani^ benefited by saving things

front wrecks, >aid Commander Ihurien

Smith. "Ii was dimperous and ihr> Me -creed

what they ^?t. Hut nnhody had to pray mr

wreck- A round here 1hu> haf^cmtl Arid t^f

id.HNilr r- luivf HprFHnErcH'orriforfiiix-iriJiliAT-

Oft*! day m 1919* he Luld me. the men ni

t -10

ttryher Were astonish ed to see * srhomatrr i‘ymr

drilling in l-idcrr with a full caqja nf timber hut

will] nobody Ltlnvani Stir u.s- < "iwadJ&m her

nnmr Mimtnt G D&kitef. The Bryhcr men went

quickly aboard sejurrdy hdkving thill u ship

mid m uneuvi 1

r I-

1

r -elf through the complicated

tide rips and ni her dumpers, They anch^ned her

jtLfl in time lu *ayi\ lief front running unto -rime

rocks, and in due entity mailed her away mS^oUitrid fi.- salvagr.

They teurinsj Inter that *he hud sprung aleak

in ii gule off Ireland und been abandoned The

leak ttaok u (

>

Kand Abe wandered alongon her nw

n

The rocks Lin rl ren-fs ground the Still]t- -tail

l-lki iIhbj* t'dl ,U**l i&vL M^trch the \mattan -

owner! 6 HOCK) -tern liinker Terrify \ Canyon. iht-

bingetf ship ever to run agrauncL brake in three

on tie veu reef* tight mile? iKWlhcflat of

St Martin's Its spread] ng cargo of $5 .iKMJ.LJOO

gallon- -M v-rude nil brought afcagter to holiday

beaches uj southern England und even black-

ened the sunds of Brittanx and Normandy., 220

miles away, Koval Air Force and Hov.il Xavviels dropped espies ive> m bum away fuel stfh mMm- hulk, anil and riWihira used bulldor-

ers ? deterirenti, and ^jiwdast tn than beaches

Currrtil* .nnl hu'iir.ilik wrncL spared the

>* jlhes, m spite of the ncarttgSA inf I lie wreck,

lint even now. month 1 titer, the extent of

to EnglaiiflV ami Fianci- bird and marine life

; «iTi only be pieced aL

Ihvlim Kland « hi |i'iikm:rc*

Mo wrecks vvl’I’l- visible the da> I inn.tie nkiunrh trip toward Bbbop Rock with an old

ho-iliium named Hnracr Whidri* m-i ><-wral

Fellow pii-iveugurf.

M Funn% thing dimul name-* amund hens"I f unset said. "In the old days, Scilhinjans didn't,

travel vtwich bctWWt inlands, so you find only a

few family names on each one. Over At Bryfier

mmt everynnt is rail ad Jenkins. \ girl seldomhas in rJiangife lier mutte when she marries

V-rcrn, the Reunite bouses nf Hugh Town.shone in the sun. Atup the hi 11^ the Elijmlier Ji.in

Fon called Star Cattle brusquely fronted the sea,

: \x bad done fioce Sir hnuuis Oodolpbm built

it iL- .tn uut|iost against tjie Spacdsh .i few years

after ihc Artmdrt sailed by Star Cablet *™' it

^

uiifiSk'il moat jEJtl it' battlemen t;-. is now ii

ant hotel Musket slits the dininc

roitm. -uiri the dungeon* house h. t>mt

Vhearf. 'inf l«r> sea. Bishop Rock light rose like

.i ]w\u H thrust from the a jilt rjg.hu.

" N't] thine between it and die roast of \mej.mi. ' Htutttc 1 1 iid tiU pn^seageri.

<hThJtit% the

lir- t IbiJn \rm-rican j-ec in Europe Hut \vt\

don't see sfj many liners now. And iF k i sidling

U2

FIRST AND LAST OtTPObT

nf ninthu estem Hritii in;

Wnkop Rank LightlH/w*

rliu^i fu it nefr ii hilr it*

UghtiJhnhtHfi with thv

iniensilMj nf 720JMM) cUfUtltv,

u'ftnt* itictfiiipfx qf lht hjiitiiy

Sciliii’n. During, htirrivancH,

monstroui itemi have iturivtl

vjmttj „rrr thr ttrfi uf

the tower rmrf

jarred lubricating ntefcunj

from the tamp. Keeper

(rfiiitfini \1'. Friini ntriicaUif

weathers such storm*

in hi* lofty eyrie.

ikwihonU h i* |ifn krPfi£H*ui n;M -

ship passes by. id I Hugh I'pwn siop!y wort.11] r] i iT|T|Cr! tfi look

The weather ynnil ami t lie sea r ,il

m

when we lf.il, for Horace hi \w c+wld upI in i-ii h I li -ho| s

L! ul k 1

1 r 11 s in tile ii nc-

l

a-ember"It looks id! fight fouw," he susd. Mbul in n

wester i he whole \tlcmi ir nme* rubbing

at ii I've- -e^n (hr jjFeaT sea- breaking, aJimru

u\ it ii hirrLt>-Ein end I hr tigiitlunifle ktwjjer-

hiive been marooned. ihf rr Fur weeks"

BEutSOm.s Hide Amu*r\ \n -.ruiCL llnrh

(hi uaunhnhiiect Annul, a sairctuar) iof

lirnb, I look. -I for l iiL-f

i til has .ind.shearwater*

ibeit rne.-it iben? by thr ihousami-, but iht

eranite island was so L*arpeird wilh bftNiim

"l t hu pink thrift that I i osilil in ii ^r(hc ne^t-

i n n hi ret film k-an i Mv h 1 re ily * terr .ltrhers andringed

[1

1 pvers walked on the beuclie* limit

hliiirk-tiai'kefj gutb, a*- larjif us geese, wheeledoverhead in pair' JiHik'iJLi 'nr Limdnag edi-

ble- especially young l.irrd: SctLuninii Jimp•’loi'ii j silent an d still on the cxjiosed fucks-

S 44

with their mup hi-M oddly and stiffly out"I >rviojj i heir winLi-r I asked Hum. i*, l*ui

he didn't know"It taki^ d hi tig lime, if I,licit - whai thcy

pmtlLsisitf," he «iid. “They jUM 5t;iur| like thill for

Ion ] think They're always dtntlg ft1*'

Later. 3 found dial they were indeed drying

ihemseLve? in the warm -un-hine—not un-

like the “Lin -worshipi hr visitors.

The sea hu^aiii to livr and break on ihu

mao \ ro- k&, tin- tauneh to piti h and mil Sonu-

I5e nper :- were -en> 1

- k. H 1 . nn.

1 1 1 1n 1 e .I bii c k

"St-i.' thosi. rock*/" he asked, (Hunting to u

nsimy patch where the tirk nr-hrd with surly

swell* tivejr rock-* I hat seemed la rtow ll> 1

wati IniJ them, hrr i :il- tide w is fallingHT had

two Lotisim droWiifrd lb ere, fisJtini: Thu If

bmX overt ii nil; i.l. and they were caught in

their own ftear. Prnplr ftahorv saw (hem, hue

they rouldn't gel lirere in tinw,'"

Many ishtndtTs .utild Ec-il of petr-»nnl t rasg-

edfefl -lji h m 1

3

1 :h l 1 Fnce nrasf nr the r^-nJi'i it -

of une island limw ncii r 1 uininR home by lio^>

i"

n

ill niifht fmm wadding oh St Mary-I tiu k ml 1 1 Lsu;l= 1'iuyii. tlit moior us-

scl wm coming An on he1!

 Min from ItauAifre. < row dudwith piL^nEEV'c hy tht hundreds Mainwere diiy-tnp|M?rs hut rno?-r wotiJri MayInrmtr Over head lfc ludhnpier vc.Jis

descending noisily* currying .

l=- mu it

SbOn tlii^ viikbmi wen- walk inti along

lliu I it E It stpner E|u:ty low,ml the town,

smihrijE sn I her -oiu balmy tor, drink-

rrm lit the uronr. deHidllihU ill the ;ih>-

situ e if traffic jams —happy ru

owl of tin world for a while in thus*

Frmniiirte Ide_s

''flavine a nice Ljrcw' askort m>inti ni Captain Phillip- the harbrn

mailer

JnUtyil I wa-l- 1 teflifU'd I t lou,

walked dowly akimi lilt quin tubouk,

il' I coukk lLI l.ht same hotel, in thesamei

1

1

i i : i . u «r 1

1

. > -. lm f 1

1

me the tol lowi nur

year The -Anne bed, too. THE ENI>

Vm - liiri]HLB retl ill rit> 1 1jjiiait'il hh ks, rvrry-

wherc ,L|N!n!iii - hi fapi i e i^r m water- jmuniithi '•4- ill 1

1

1* -

"f\m nearby Seven Slone j rev I dld i nealc nl able il.im .use

1 1 r 11 !

r I 1 [I til- 1 1 T2 1

1

1 LJ

I I 1

1

1 e ?y |.sljiT s | itker T0 ri r y l ri yQft

kill Mati'h IS J 'Lcmjilrii' millifin - 1,^ iLJilhilLs nj Kuwail

lit tli r WFrtk i]rrQ04l a diefc ihal

trapped wildlife* fmcpjxrl rcNfirC bejirh-CS fit înthpro

Knitlatul ant I jrartkwrs&prn Fimhv, nitlI tluvatranl

fsfaettes Ntii IrtUh ddes of (hr Channel MiriirtiSomijy.

vird n lLh and carrettl* diverltd the oil f rum l he SdJIic^

tuvinir L-LiiiM [Lfiirliw iirirn iit*EP4er

I Imittuij; thrriugh liiir wav and tmiL iiLri:iTln , :ui-

gTitirwi ihvhoWM'il tîli viiiiir^ ve—,vl%, ibrer nl i lium

ISmidi, w miked in i-ea.* around LIil* St 1

1

lie*: from ElTi.

i

I

n* rVcmmr Srrrni{ ilii Sjnmi^h nark i*nma iMtnnti a

whi>M j1

1

e injrvJiVdf i Funis u* th - IlgurelieKili ihr

lurk RJvti ! Lum; and the tea dipper friar Truk

take izhoj-L* fr^m 1 hr dnpth.-..ihev ndnrn a n rxi^la I'EitliTl

\ dJtKill,) il- 'l r

i

m .i ^bbe> 1^ i > 1 1 1

1

ii •i i

liir

fearful IcpH iicuIjiBd bjj Use AitanElî huhSuu ihsl

In Quest of the

World's Largest Fr

Article and photograph* by PAU1. A. ZAHJ , Ph D.SenuiT Nntuml ScfautM NatHmkt Gcv^nHrWc Huff

H IDDEN OX nil-: WANK 1j> .i kirrlain uf IhiLi.i

C

tinned"hi- rifcih--iw

rrjllcn Alina River a-* n lumhlcd over a rocky

itairraje The IntaJ rfmp Witv no more than twenty fceL buithe ItKv and rtmibJe nf plunging water echoed along the andspray stacked fcVtrry overhanging braftdh -inrl vine

Hiroptly my eye.- tUippud On .1 rno>sy boulder haltu.u downt he " fiseJtde I saw a dark form "i siartlmj* pro|mrMOrtii h had a ILu-1,1

1

1 ,-

,l bead and crouched on massive tsEtuncbe?. Ui am herfby nu>i,

i.he 5 3 line wlis s-t? wei tks, it-= nn-ky perch, .imi just ii> mutinolcssi'ur minute t mmW m» nnyve Hien .rînLden flicker from wh\i\ I

fimeted to be the *ream nr'* mouth provided u rhie This * pujjl only«" &li4£kt ihe ftfmsit l>«« ni the gettfjs Vonmitu, -uaLehim; winpr«i

inesecL- from the mist-Jndey lui above the waterfall.

Cnrefut to snake no burned m 1 ) veitu- hi, I >et my Camera on 0 in-pod Jinri i i'eflii with n Lwt^ io^ tiketeie-c ipir tens lltai n? I for used

,

wmunhins;. pyrhupv u jiijil 11I iru lal, hr craved rti \ pneênre In hti n 1-

iîline k\i|j, lIur^Tfiil itilulhctnirrvnl a/nj WBjtgrmt

Bupir lor .1 ('upturn Resta With Ondu

Severn I week- earlier, In November., [ had am vi:d in Bala. st:j

Side capital of Rici Muni, n dtiy Spanish jiravine* 01: \frkn - eipja

h trial we fit cua*( i miip ( eull' 149) fJtily here, mid In nekdi hnrimrt dCncronti 10 the northern jianl frngy more than a myth Rr|iuri>

of individuals nearly .t yard king from nose to tui\ and wdidunKmore Mian seven pounds, had imri&Liori me for year* Xmv I hadcome ld r%ce l hern with my own ey^Si hoping to brute back rvictemathat the specks 1 luiuuli LaiiaininttTn* is nnl threatened byeimnnion

ihjt jilv initial feeling fhcra I w the river wo- 1 1 1 if; nf fmMmiidp

VflfltfliijihcEl kimK nf frisiE

dnm Ian stE’ nearly Jmlf ihs-

Ernirtli of Jb cpfilnt. Mo-mem fitrtkrr this ( Vur-iio^

1 1 rmirhcd in the

jrttrHin^ i j^-tude i.xf 11 rj vtr

drAininc liir QipimeruiTrain hinwl tiE Ki.^ Mumil«fiL -.s SjiafifeJi priKint'r

in western .-Unrik Tlsr

itnifii fmy fell pr^y in On-I i. urLf of Riu Mi sin Filju:

|i8Mi[jir, who ma^pciS 1

1

wills 4 r»hln'irk itan^tid

horn .1 [jolc.

l^r^t of ihe worldbnum 1 J 1 mi-. J5(l imv Iriis;

spice its. ^y] i :j l 1 1 ii wr I L ijn

m Rm Mm&i and ir • north-

WH ni'i^hliFir l AniifriNin

The Fh^. euJI tEie

1 H' i1m

1‘fa i

11in 1 l N Earn 1! 1 nh

—

"nioltirr'- Mirf1—litN nu.vf

n *bc uvul linihv remtniE

thpjn of a small dhfld

Sh\. sfiii.T p eyed. and

quick to dive out nf sip.til.

I he froict rsenped ir-ifSitihL

eD$cuvlh3 trntil 6CI '.Tjr=:

Attti 'liie iiiithffl- raptured

frye i_oliJJii^ ro m ikf rhetie

Jl^yi tmhlii^hcd rohif jfEmir,-

h r.<|

'Ii < rhia niinL^ 111

1

1n pr

tern cite hnbitui V[? wa-s jrl-

vLeiJ jjk3 pislded byH|iiiii-

i-ik rwnirutisi Jritur

Ivy 1jL CtiMiof n|

Bun ciluua 2ao\ \nJ n|nl

Ai l UamlJriition Center lu

BatiL wlin has inve+tijptfpii

r 11 rroL’- lor Eto jrar-

and piilihMif i] ne\ rrnl pcH

prr . 1 in I he- ioh}pi t

MO

Iff JOJ;7"*^ '

’

JT lyuiikJi

i I * . j 1

1

j r n - -il dir l .1M .ilU- ^ilialhft ..n iI

-I I: ,i l

! -- pm li in thi Ml-: - \l \ i-r VVrun ,111

irt'iei. t inm™uw\ n frug&vmreB Lhe pray whli .1 iln k uf it* itlcJ# tfjnnur The nullmrhrthvr* thflt 'I tisnu Ihf iLinpfaihillip&

IKin ilk'- n^ysjrn tJml Iln % absorb ih couch

ihr ^pijlcrti^ntini? shi- supply Inun Iht Itwtpt?

In the- midst nr n ragim* lorrtni, how couid 1

1 nibfi n rrjtnjn: wary nt the move-ttien t even at thirl > yards ? Frt>^ frtf; ye n I

J y«fr tMuybt riL flight in the -

1

m ^ 1 nf a lilinding

fl.i.dilitzhL But ivfoiu ruth I 1 hi! Iiis way thruu^hthis jtlhglcTti the dark and uut irilo l\w middleof a waterfall?

A better hope was ( inch-, one of the km^people who tvnfk Rio Muni'^ uliiuc ami cocoapkintfliiciifc, and our -d ihf feu men h RfoMuni with the pffrwfe&tti lake a. goliath alive.

He hnd guided me to iht- riverbank and hadwatched as I hr fro]i disappeared

"lifijFFijjifj,

' hi- said, rhppins ha hand tu myear* '“that ^jutu: fellow will be barL"

U#

I returned dir niext day, driving Nil- J's

mile# i>l winding dingle truck frnttt Hata tu

wiihh Hiking da -5 a ru e r*f the Mina ui^-ndes.

With nu-wrhl Sr/ririr Ji.irge Sn] ki

I

er Pi r ;t gjdfled

naittralidl with years. 1 j l eacperirmie in westernAfries, who U currently- in u NtUiomU( ieogniphic Sooet>i'spoit^;irci;l sttidy uf low-

land gorillas* Along tinr way ivt? pickl'd tip

O mlu in ih«; vUIngt of s -in Joaquin

T he I Ftw Innm 1 n g f 1 \ t hv wat l1 r cjew !mdr r

a- we iwMfd <mr an foot ikjwn 1 twirirlv™ >

defim-d trail Si iniI thief than urt uur previous

visit and careful to stay in Ihu MmiImu-s w

"Srt ilur tV^chl - V\f\\ VVhHii' i airlll,i'

Ui \i:hnr J teifidiir. liPOfilTAhitr. Mrin:h. 1 U4),

r*

It* rt w.Xi,

lauA-fl uir?

eAmfrcjon

.0.

'MV-H-Otjrirli-

MMflf

Of^'.'iinfiL

Clcji- +r‘'

U* - i1

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,

ftfc MUNIIWrf*1

a

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tT.ll.

,

uniitt *1111i

-i’Qii Jticjlr

< *t»

AFRICA

ifcf piiSnt rVoi” '•tr/dpi

ikiTiTimg ,5^q MtmJ afflJ Cajn-

eroars A rrcft JodTf for na±u-

-jfriJT, flng Muni rrcrnt'y tf.rvr

tJtt rt til .'iJ _S>:-OhNrY?.i Ajt ftrwk

Aim ivm f» '' iPj- Lpo-

i' s

/1

1

f .nuirliinii ptindt^niis^Sv. ( goliath gjUMfS tn

it tnb-Lt far Senor Subtler; then n mighty leii ^ -llh fi.es

tlip n rr:i[ frojs Jeftfcfcl i nS-Hi-v* ! Aw a> frnm ibrir invijt-

ijn it in jr a scM Li

H

1 iimpMbijm i an m it k t1 bu 1

1

h i

nr irinr bound> bcfure 'Uccamb'my To cihuAtflJon

>'*

i.T-ltfi j. tbt'marlw-- -m -g itli> -dri-in hcd rOtk± U\

d-iy. itdiiatta jrirnwJ *u™n hunk? rilpht, rtuippiop

mtIsui&c^iCittp^ (np Cttpfcfv^ hnvr

Ihcen ItnoW ts lu rtrjt-iX all tiiTc ciLC|.j| with c mil C The

fiog-r hear lurutrh but lurk .t v n J.L =_k f ir i

! Ml

I'FGpL USt I. LfltJtlgh U lumRIiLSllI A Vil?W

bnmcrirEiti/ly < hi tin nudgeid hie. fur then- on

thr Kune rock. I ll> feg dim n-i-rum in^t a? he-

forcp sal a hugr frog* \\V wailed a* Qnda >ct

hi work i mn:i . m l'.1 puk fmm a riflii frond

H. •- 1 a^tirii l1

1 i .1 coral u« tin pole- ti|i unrl j

ru^ty fishhook to the cord'.v free end Tlim hr

sijsytaJed & m remain where we worn—out of

,'ip;ht anddiiappearL-dup^ire^Ja-

I '-iiit-Mii c >4 rati Tinting Bag a CriunE

Fifteen, thirty minute 1 locked to

nt v

t

for rea&u nt iiu- So nedi r'u r cobee r in

.

he tolil me, OmJu wgs cotking- upnver shah

lows that would permit .1 wnttine .ippnwh to

the ^‘airi L;i il -1 r-L -i (ftalimtl marmtii'ET wntiUI

di [jetnJ on the fact flJmi indiath!, whfli- possesirig Lirute forwjrd ;ijli! peripheral vi«ion i-

n • r equipped with reameii nun nr-

\n\Y Wi MW * hldu, IE ft TO 1\16 S h LilllS ITl the

s

I

1 1 i c 1 u Wiiu-r, soaked With spnty He was-

t liit 5 fijt-t from hi> gpaJ nod sUmping1 jn h*-

nut of viriv should! Thif frag turn

1 craved ran finger* 0% inch by ineb, the

liunHnuui ittuvnE dawn 1 lit- racing Jurrtnt

Umilh lie himself upon a m-u^sy rock

pJl,'. L ti I- Ikhiml . Lt 1 1

1

1 e 1 111 IrnL VVjlh

swely patience he raised the pole, then slowly

lowered the line so thru the hookciifne jointly

III t L'St, hell* eel) the* ftnjt'-i liirbi 1 ilirt nric ill it -

haunnhei \ ! tin point did She iftag fggiMei

the -liftijEe.-i nlarki

Then Ondi} gave a ti uhtning jerk on tbe

1'Hik lr , i x 1; li l* i I a* 1 hi; 1roctT now a fury at sin

leached rtllexe.^ Boiled in pud^ur Holding-

1 ear I- n n eId n s . 1 rn1 u vere 1 1 1 he J

h ra- h i rui c reu -

tun- inward him .imi i-jird \\a him! Ictr*

Fifteen minute? later a punning Omlojoined u>, Qniekly W& removed the huok from

iMl: fray's scai re U injured -kin Then, -melt

ISO

i-l> tiny .l*- fry, _ iIllII: dn ryn-

seutipcd 1 1 u -h from the Mbi > tupped -isurt

Hie nn!> ji link than flirts* nt the

i nnutiuik lnjlH'ruu; Shown L1

-1

- limes life-

.mac ciu:h fmb on u lugging 70Itaw , but

will '-lhhi w i liikilu fmm iJâi'liirini'H-cnvr-

Ilijh Ci- l'nrk4=r tin - m:i 1

1

rl.thi If If.

bower iprocqcisN, mlltxkd ,mii j.ifr

^rve*l by ^ ffM>r T’ ^h,is or. show tiT

mi’Si:LiTiiirj>hMAh [ham Icgl-era iMiHlwpg l<J

(wn INch frus^l whi.^tiul l = hortly i i-

Hirlwii Into its hody W hits’ bullirncn stop

grow inis ill E3 in Lj ittHirv, Krari to tixr .

* t rp.nufc'l> double I hat length

Ilotp- hiriffltMiC. -Iiou , ilEuii] ?iÊ wcisi^

wi 0 1 1 1 1 11 £ 1 h 1

1

1 -.pr I rJh iml lull i uji i it r w .1 Lce

ami help? k-t-trl* the IrajE nn - mir^‘ whenI i'.l] m ii;c FjuIi un the sole îve irsul k»n on

'ftpperv rurkv

hud ‘’I'-uil fur -j'.-dh triumphant photu^rniph*- fpiuje -i'.'i,

i’XEUnined this extmordllifm prize

The bead Wileft I < 11 a? a saucer* and each eye. with 3 E- black almond

shaped pupil set in :

\

speckled yellnw iri^ uaJ tiJ t Lif m/v r>f o |ive-

epnl piece The forelegs. Were almost as thick a^ my wrist, and the

powerfully muscled rear tap* were hu^rr than turkey dm iti.se ick.v

Except for sizer, tin i reinsure wii_- similar tu utir comnum \mcririiii

fronts, all m^ml^rs of the same fun-HI v, Rani due.

Hack efi we weighed ourcai' h Six years earlier, arid

Omln had i’LiijpJn ;l frpg weighing 7 - pounds; now r; yarded us the

largest cvei iitkc-ii in Rip Mum Afl old rJaim of a M-putind specimen*

nllpfriil> taken in lAtmeruom hu-. never been verified We placed uur

omender un list m ale*. pultintS iittJ pithing ii Slit" mnitsisnl in tran-

quillity flnuTly Ihv dial hand Readied aL u.S pounds— rw> diampinn,

blit cerriUidy in the mmicr-iiji category. 1 was tirtatfid

1 »i.e i:S u, Mum Nil 311ml at trimmlmn

Our cjict; |unvrd-i frmnlr, but j( nni alA i.m- l- , s^nliftth

sexes are similar. As En niLin> a^tightlj hwoLIcu first digit uii-rach

fordimb iU*t > lu^piltt. dutttig (lie tnalfng inientifu^ the male

Rtprpdufdnn occurs mainly during Jtil\ anil Auguai Hfo MunTsdryseason. ftllhoLi^h we ton m I wi fresh epgi and many newly hatched

tadpoles in Decon tier and janiihini—du* “Htlifc il“. -i-.i-hi. " fcggs d( ppflh

tied in the |m?uU by tin b-rtialr arc irrUlued by mi h simuit^neoully

rdtiasLcJ b^-

[lie malu^ Each pea size eg#* slate gray un utie face, yel

)awi>b un the ullier. is protectively suspend L'd in a globe of -dear jelly.

{ I 'll ill', huyo -mnl f^mlluL-- 4 S 1 Ct][bryu. in ahn-ui i wo \U'rk- it Take

thf shape i«! a ti! dju ile liunn^ tlif-e stape- a yolk m u n the Underside

[irovtde-. tuvuriyhniiiMl Ftmtlly 4 ffiûrinimmg wriggler emeriL^ from

i-^ch griatinaLi^ case. A msmlh drvtili : ixuh several raws of tiny sharp

Uii-ih for I'ceditiie oh Podostctfinccat1

, Wild plants characlifrisllc of the

cascade punkWithin Swo to ihree nmnlh?. ttn body htts sprouted lees nm l the tail

h|» been .lI 1 -nrtel Nnw ihr 1 n-aiurc uihtindcins its herbivorous habit

us well ll-- its naLal [R’hÎ. ir tnH’omcs a earn |v me. Aanly'.k of - tornach t:cm-

1 1 1 51 - rrwah 1 lie food staples *4 3 he ndillt lo be, insects, fish fry , crusty

cean.-. alh.1 iibou' guy nther j-itiall rciy^ty iMny iliat comey wii bin rial I-

Htin^rv pjrrrt; .1 gohutli ! own IV vinr rviiut?. r in Hn Mum Rr dt ryicmii'!!

EnciHmtrFi'rlu' 1 lu-> hunUti juiudr afild rijh- with quar muI gknt net, Ihc oomadlr (amtdwellers jublljiith N.ulinl ibc nn\il Jh^; j- aCinc-bill l sfcfy .

c.if the frog'* long* sticky, fast-tlLckjiia tonkin-

(jsitiatlii cfiJd> growth stage* rive no hint

naf impending ^tgi+niirssms Kpg*, tadpoles, imd

young ire iu>t much lamer than thi i-e ut anyiitiiti i-l tbc wurtd'i J 5 i rjjri rjf in 1 1 frng•

I'.LiT-L 151) £Jnt> ;*fter miz[;unr>r]ihi^k ;ife the

kiiyskrittu.H force*

t

A\*\\ Lvydvt i^tiji*' ill n-j I

e

am d

(.in Greeteit With Joy011s ^'omciisjiLalt

It is uiitortucLLitL- for .1 when iruin

finds ) gtlorf l> h I'Ll I, but (UL'ktJ 1, . fl-ML1 oj Rju

Mans1

* Fang wen know of iJw big iru.u

existence. let jloiit u> Lb,U\

Nut Wilt* (lie fktyelc, a Liihe of I'senne-

who Jive a withdrawn, TioTnudrc hit in the

dark fore^ of northern Rin Muniundf Jimcr-

iktn 1 hi hh -.nuiJP fit1

* ijiIil- -- ls tj .-•I im Lu>h ele-

|jlmtnT i4Jiir]o[Jv, ljtn.b r fbh. iifiti buffalo. Wgencountered ;l party 1 1 K 1

3

:

l

s ij 1 1; In 1 liters dur-

um ii trip deep into rhr jnufi.tr and r|i-« idrd t.u

u k:-i thoJr Rmi Iulhi y wst h the frnirs hy giving

tiie eh oiie of on r *pctiriien&,

VcLS* and M;reuiii^ of delicti L rm w him wtr

ope turd. our basket anil presented ihe Fieri 11

man with a five gumt imp. Ont manto turn ears wheels: another climbed a tree

miiJ umly iHimcrsHulted down hi frmil of luc

*‘Do we t-.ii I'rnsEyV’ roared the headmuji r a-

oiir translator did hk Twfll. Words flawed,

fiures beamed, arms gestured ]i molded op ru

the glories of Frog urt-ai. |o galiatb’-s wariness,

in tin? lia/anl,^ up striking in the

Our jungle friend.* invited us to their en-

campnienL Two uf the ci.i-te busied tiivm 5 e I ves

wish tender und el whs rime sticks and before

long f he frog was m a pen over a blazing ike.

o| EaUing d^kiic&s. wc canid not

5- 144 y sVir 1 h e,1 Still In high -piriiv 1 hr I kite

a lHU Jci l uh back E(j mljt 1 nil I w,u convincedihiu lie never QpiJtirtuniiv pi h.<A\\

i outovu fwluHh k a- suui h a jyiirt of ihen <iu-i

ll> ah', nther junsfle ijuirr.

J rould unr|LLr>lliniil the 11v g3tl if - cntllU-

Nn t hi prt-ste-nt we 1 1mu phi ihtmi. fur

fra^i meiii Ls unckfunbh* r and the genvr-

mih !'fo| 1'irlimi? uf a goliath drumstick pui it

in acIelhs In n >el1 gm |i apj-L-nl rimli.l quirkFy

doom these rAre animals, were \i net for twocirfiimslaJices? their prefeoenEt tut dlUkulL

terrain, nnd tlir sjperftenesi uf human poimlit-

lion Lu prey u.\*oi\ tbfm llfllfel* they: fiiclnrii

i-Jmoac, llidr -umviil seem* jssum!

15 -

Jliis new Mimic otimoru is |Kilin~si/,e.

liunls insiitn; k. ;m<J is less tk:m $.10.

Movif uhuuI t.u be rather bignnd bulky*

W 1

1

u I to hnve to thread rmcJ rlij"i the flltn, Windftoti too. Anil v foil'd get dou-

ble expositpefi ii_nd foggy edjueB- N-;« id ore.

just drup in the film.

Now ynii J i ! .7 ? Prop x i^pef :S film ran ridge

into a battery-driven Kmink InAtaftmth:*

movie camera and nhmrt a full SO fwt of cal nrdm vies. Mi -vies thut will mirprise you tiocuiee

IheyVc- Mt imifh dhitrprr nn| brishtfir thjm any-thing yw'vti l uftU 1

I'.' expt'L f~

SupLT S pictures arc50% hifficr*

Even :M y 1 !.i I'sui’t really appreciate wfuit n -r f

Ferencc Hi makes nnlrl fm prnjwtywir K^laknn per S nrriv?+'$ on ynu r ecreetu Then-wow 1

X nti a rn 11 y r new guper S tth ?vi£sra II for & #upiJr B

projector Kodak ofTersacfifnpWe 3? ne, from lo-un

limn SC3. all ivl kb fully nutu matte threading.

I n adiflllcm t n theKodak 1nata -

mn t m- M 12 mcrviecfljnerft forleas

It ij i ii $- ! 0 \ . 1 1 !ii i v i1

i h^ro.iL re

three ot hrr palm -jfifta cam i hisa

JneliuilDF Mmk'l M 1 ft i ti-ft ,

w J 1 1 1 zoom ti'i 1 3 ami CdSelectric eye t hat gptd

the h:lkA npeilinjr

flUlMJlDlt icaflr,

Ulth piato]

grip, [u&i>

than

Alter you've seen

Lake Powell, we still have

17 olher spectaculars

left lo show you:

Grand Canyon National Park

Petrified Forest National Park

Natianni Mnnwirtfttl

rinyon-tfs C-Kdlh-

NmjiSpring

• i JP ..fll

.

Sumel Eral«f

IWjlinui Ca/ly&n

TiijilMl

Tffiito

Casa Grand*

S^ynfETumscawrChiricshiM

lite Mud

New Residence ElevatorHfw mtokl Dmf H&im=Lirr ati?n

C*4LiTy ;ind ufaty l&i effortless trans-

pijjifftion Mfr'fifsi 'floors Luxumhu».ntj lutitrts *ilmj1 l^dmg doorj/aod -înm«4 color- eoprUioatK

aipc-tmg, tmndraik £^s> ly n.r.iÊ if-

in re* or Crating hofircs or Eflifli-

IWflSiJ in tpK^ imiK as 37J

x jjp.

Ope r.lk^ Oil houu turnilt fur pwrmis1 day. Vr rMo rpr cafdf-nf on HOfntLtFTind EseaUFT BLitf-dirnLinR- chiu

DOVER HOMED FTDOVER COflÔh'AliCN UPvAtHfl DEV

m\ Mr. f o.^rLn,NM«i.Tî uw

Drgon Pipe Cttftts

MlfflE NAriONAl PARKSM MCNUMEHtS THAN AMOTHER STATE ffitlTI FOS FKEE COLOR SfitiCHURE

tufr

y?\ .vV* HI'

AMAZING

ARIZONA1445 Niffh Afe.

JitflirtNi aEVELQi'MEnT BQJJtt ômrrti,. *- ;4na £5012SUmIbii

WinMI> »

j

4 j>< «Ss!>p« liv'd 1

1

20 X SO*24-92

S-d-V-EI r- in - oil :iita > Lfcvjvi - i,r j L .h * ^-y 1 *jlrrjw*. JM-ppr . JjaWpi iy- jHpira-t

'ir'ilinj.r^ lipi. ^riild i c h FrifTHl |rW|.

| r |L< r.-.rr. f ,|.-|Tn %>’ jiwi i Irltiftiiurf-* I 1ca!> I JJ ui ||i 1 11 -j

it i * |i

4>1 irij£H r b lirilhlbT Ihulvi i 'V .Illfh -ilCril irnU "i i -mJ lii.nl

ik*'. 1 ’uMhf frigUm |Jkt ->• < * 11?. ir iifln I". uJip a'riu’ f >a : 1 1*

U DAY FREE TKALII r; :< iHlhllP. I VMUIII I ip tiliinil

1’

I* iHjrai- -

1

lini . . | .i )i- -I

'IBT If jEflbfH iPWdtc l-i I VlM 1 1"Jl

iwniimff ,'ii.iiiiriii^ I li l I r -j il i|

kj . 1 1-

1 h

^

1 1 1 fikJ.U'tt ittitav,UNlt'ED inncuLA P CO

)U1 'S. fltniirr On jit. W£-S«Ui.cHiurii nr. aKri

Upth h S>| I * JIJ-hfuiuM thr * t| [. JjI ,

Discover Agfachrome,the honest color film.

Win a 22-DayAfrican Safari.

Tty Lhc illdc filr? Ikiil uipLufm. n-iilUrc in its

IrtfL’ colon Sum Mrs: Agl itchr-t'rrw sinit" L4 cUi(lNe

Lo in eiv^r Ml jfrcjt prurs ImrlHLSjnjj 4 plwto

afuri for iwq in colorful Africa isitli ttepovers in

BntfÛ nnd Atbcnii

SPfiOAZ. INIROIKjCIORI OFFER rii.ikn

11 e»y lo get to- know Affttcfercmc, with a chance

1 m 5*‘en ri ^

i

k fit rsr^tf". W rice far • .jmple 1 1-txpcûrs

35tnffi lull itirctL from ui tor only

M.51I ( irtcltiiling faptory procMîng 1

M j lI thn. u'-upci-n E<kLl^ fnr HEm liiiil

corrupt jr:knrni.jLL-nn. Oi ftcl a COntea i

<wt r>- 1 rr*m you r A j < 1 trttr

r

.k.i]flr. AGFA-GEVAERT

Aefi Herat rC LaavaUff. t-flr.

P.0, ttn a 711 ( flîichitig,, NT. 11J5J

nsis't

;

1 Rum sample roil el SlfnmAirlacJirfiiT-s Tiltn ^-nsl c^psesl inlornuôn

.

fP 'iui pcirii EHitiiMT-lkli will fc'P f«aut nhipe-i^f l#bei^

NArnn

N

a Idr dss_

stM-s. irR.

tntlotff Check yr mnrejj ortjer fin -,i ihidp e' c»Ji P'tu'el

nJtiEa 1 ™ ® lAi.iiir nT tH B

SABINAIjiwi i * wll fcPt 1 "!

»i * p » . i-" . c < *ni &^WiCkf PFf+fS »*' «*ii

When you go on vocation,

you’ll find our Tourguard girls

are good lookers.G i j I f

p

sTo lj rguar il q i r I s are n

ally iramod to give a Gu\\ service bSq-

I ion a good looking over

Every linw one a? them vlsiis a

station, n gig Eg lacked al In 49 dJhnr-

ont places. Roa^ rooms sales racks

pumps, Dquipmoel. The wor*s.

The result is naaE. clean staSi-ons

Shat make your vacation drive Jusl

a bit more enjoyable. II 5 a HlE-e

thing, but...

W« thirrH. everybody should gel

out For i ^acai-cm So we da ah wecan lo make h more pleasani.

Oult Oil Corporation

(.KACIOl S

SKRVI

Stun 1892Colorado unitors chosen

ttms hptoi for comfort hO$0i(aHly

and cnnvemenc0

drown ^Palacer_Jr n p f i *,

EifwtP CtH.aÂaoMAPI W MCHtMAWSi » >», ' m

ffepi*E*'rtn*# 'i Rfrburl F War™

t

r* Vflfl1! Q|l

r

G ::cn W .uv-rtli

L *J i i

CLOCKS BV

m. , . tt* “St Of thdn ,r

- . r irilW

iLlintvl, kldCtHy/Dlrftbn £rf

firawitF fpiitpiti, Ik.,

D^rt. m. ««tspn*. iTiigjM

Pnnh of Iht many p laces in ygip home[Kit co€jid wcltDfiHj 1 dart ilk* IHiee-

thiiik at the wannth it ‘ivould Hld-tlK3£fBnJl}f lb gpfahn chbni wadd bring.

£uardi«i of eicli goldis Itear,

a RidfcviaT c

I

dcIl is *i Dnct line i’mnl-

lur« iVnd 1 Family Sricnd. Let us Dhuv.

vdu Ehft mpiy and sl^JtS Id

chDosii from.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHICS

Upg^.-inui 3rd iriftpsifip |n?o V[ind-ôtie hlnSi 3 is hiitcnma 1

1

r;ra ry

ft*

-

j fen..- vi:lL.-nn !.. Lc.i.i Lkus line Lgoh^.

LftdH'#f I Ik-e , I.'L'li 'itJ riOflLs. l-sju I ifu I ly

tppFj[S€i-^ In cold. New iadepretfr., 0" e fiE-e

hn'ri &5 Issue: orrnnr^ ptiap? Includes geldfort i-pr iddmr diitri i*tc. Mor n> i-iank|b±SMELEce. Sty*3 c:riD-=k to THE HK^SWITH

CO., Fi^t flik'.n'jon. WiS- 5J5J.1

N:iL ci-nul

£jr 5 iktAgiLVtnemnp Me

115 *5 aulTide U-SLa.J iwCalalci ar ti|ij 'v ]G<3nlfcnr urjyj?inrs cn rnijujct

kept neat, clean, handy

[4 - 1W ,

t. J 11

1

% ‘ B£^^4r ’ «*: M

J I'pPw fr l~ |H| : —

REVIEW Ihc who-ie ciritimg .jrrny cl National

fii'OKrsphie Society prCrthtdlv In ii tree PuliM-

ciftiDfii Cflaloa. Colocful H informative boakh . . .

lilcibi-s and Jtlaves as meflul as they are beautiful'Wfitt Nahondl Geographic SOccetv- DepL 4N-Washin^toiTf D.C. ?OQ3fi. United Kingdommembers contact the SocktjA London office-—3 1 Sf.inh^po- G.jlcr Wdijrtafr, London W-l. Now.scftn 1 GMHt: tempting ifr.'rm in the -catalog, . „ ^

sfinj#] -ii Pn&iafiiHU. -uc." U.SL urn

S; l.i i <« fe.ii ' J * * ! i - - j

£jpv ij r y~- . * ** l i# * HJ Vj*i J*l ifm Nlr.,- J --JSi i'fjt

.

- L.â

jf llH - i. * 1 Aâitlf

HTTp i* T '‘il îrm-Kinrinn T~inr" (IP.T»

u.*) A,

ti ai ! -*m 'y^*.

Mteri Jiliiin i^4 v.

‘â htg. CrEprdrri ]TE h

OH Q Uh, tan' nni ihn 1 4 HQgJ nit nth irib-mnldlgf (k-w HJ

Don’t fiddle whileyou roam.The Kodak Instamath HO I Camera

Jets you pay attention to the sights you're

seeing instead of the earners. you’re shoot*

in st. All you do is drop In the film cartridge.

Then wind the spring molar—and the film

will advance automatically aftereach shot.

Your 804 adjusts itself for the speed of

the film; make;- the correct outdoor expo-

sure setting tor each picture; warns you

when to use flash; switches us flash speed

a.- you pop on a flashcttbe; felts you when

flash is ready; adjusts for flash exposure

as you focus; and turns the cube for the

next flash, All automatically. The lens is a

sharp, fast //2.8, the viewing bright, the

range-finding accurate,

See how good the w- .rid looks when youI i.ive total automation and Kodak de-

pendability going for you. The KodakInstaaiatio SU4 < lamera Is leas than Slop

at your Kodak dealer's,

f*Hr, J ir. tltLAfS K LlAflUE fHitWI

Kodak Instamatic 804 Camera

General Motors is peoplemaking better products for people.

Phyllis Roe helps shorten long trips. With needle and thread.Auti-mailtin r.r np sutom n^on. we

could n&v-m ceE ale rip without ew™ng mflcti Inas-—anil girSft kfce Phyllta

Therfc arc- loo many Lhmqa at EdgkR

Importanl lumps Like your rid in(j

comfort

That '

5

wny Phyllis painstakingly

pliGS heudffe and Ihr-aad 1c cat ierut

uphold(nry to mah* cattflin you'll

Flavor Have to laku y-oup lumps rad In ^n .g C'iiij yrtilr^r Puniiac, Gulch Olrffi-

motnle 01 Ciiddlm: car.

PfoylMs rloe'i skilled tmadK Eire

tyfUcaJ cT the persona I touches Ifiul

go mtn I ha making nf nvery b Gnu-mi

MolorSi tHr. Another reason whyU'my'rr: a bailor buy. EFi-p-nqinHy hamwhefu you *it.

Now you can call moS5 of }: urope for S'

1 '.

Lbe British Isle- fot S ?. 5 <V. The cost of

telephoning I-uropc is ntm lower than

ever. For The first lime, low station to-

st it E in n ra [ev .1 1 c j 11 effee 1 . AtnJ eve i Iower

nil'll! .Etid Sund.;\ rale-. are In effect to-T8 i

rnnnv count 1 io. These new |nw rules areur

another example of how the Hell System,

in cooperation with foreign telephone

agencies. continues to improve and ex-

pand the worldwide telephone network.

Today, hsgln!upndty underseas eahicx.

communication satellites. anti radio can

carry your culls 10 Oft.S •. of the world's

telephones. Whenever you wan: to reach

anyone fot business or pleasure— call

Long Distance* Ifs she next hesi tiling

to bdng there.

' Mil iH^laiilliLh'. if*H II -IO-hTm ! J- n. m.L s»‘ili ^ ill.

The little gold boxHow it helps you balance your diet

every day

without a single chart

IF you have been working too hard and not eating right—

If .you a re cutting down on calories—

If you went to get back to the simple essentials of

good nourishment—

Then by all means join the thousands who are keeping onthe safe side with the unique kind of cereal that can helpbalance your diet every day.

These crisp, golden flakes bring you thegreatest concentration of protein, vitamins and: minerals everoffered in s single all-purpose food -and are 99% fat-free.

The time to start is tomorrow morning. See if you don'tI eel if fat better for it.

Get the little goto boxof Concentratem your grocer's cereal section

of Battle Creek £ 5ErE? Iiy N nli:. j C'.-n^pji- P

national geographic 1967 - the cutters guide

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