mount kailash & manasarover parikrama ‐ daily log

Mount Kailash & Manasarover Parikrama ‐ Daily Log

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Lake Manasarover The immutable Shivam is the root cause; Parashakthi, as the cosmic mind has the zealous will for creation. That ‘ichcha shakthi’ is the Manasarover, which we have witnessed and in

which we had the dips for eternal salvation.

மானசேராவர் அச்சார மானசிவம் அைசயாது பரசக்தி உற்சாக மாயுலகம் உருவாக்கும் - இச்சா சக்திஉரு மான சேராவைரத் தரிசித்ேதாம் முக்திதர மூழ்கும் வரம்

Shiva Kailash With the holy river tucked in His tuft, Shiva appears as the snowy mountain, where the stars and the moon inclined to touch. This is before our eyes! With tears, we walk to complete the Parikrama, thus all will be well.

சிவகயிைல நந்நீர் நதிமுடிந்த நாதன் பனிலிங்கம் விண்மீன் மதிவடியும் விரிகயிைல - கண்முன்ேன! கண்ணரீ் கரவக் காலடியால் பரிக்கிரமம் நண்ணும் நமக்ேக நலம்

Yatra With the wonderful services of the travel agents and by the grace of God, our devotional trip to Shiva Kailash was made possible. With this yatra

successfully completed, fear no more!

பயணம் சத்யம் பயணடீ்டார் ேசைவயினால் எங்கட்கு பக்தியில் பனிக்கயிைல நற்பயணம் - நித்தியன் சிவரூப மானதிருச் சீர்கயிைல தரிசனத்தால் பவபயம் இல்ைல இனி

Our Vow By discriminating intellect, it is not comprehensible – yet in the collective love, the divine is seen. This is clear now. So let our minds ripe with love and our lives be led in harmony with the mother nature

நம் உறுதி ஆய்ந்தறிய முடியா அருஞ்சிவத்ைத அன்பாேல ேதாய்ந்துணர முடியுெமனத் துலங்கியது - காய்ந்தமனம்

கனியுமினி, இயற்ைக கலந்`துலகு வாழ்விக்கும் இனியுலகு எல்லாம் சுகம்

Brief personal log of the pilgrimage to Lake Manasarover and Mount Kailash

Rajagopalan ([email protected])

26 Sep 2011


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Day 1 ‐ 13th Sep 2011 ‐ the night before the Day

It was quarter to 7 in the evening.

Uma dropped me at the London Heathrow Terminal 4, unloading my luggage as well as her

fears that I must return back safely from the Mount Kailash trip. While my safe return is

her foremost interest, mine is to move forward and witness the grace of Mount Kailash.

Returning me back is His onus… It is a nice feeling that I have done the usual Full‐moon

pooja yesterday and now am in the pursuit of Manasarover and Mount Kailash, through to

the next new moon day.

As I have already checked in through the Web, I passed through all the entry formalities at

the Airport in a flash. I went straight to the boarding gate, although there is still 80 odd

minutes for the Jet Airlines bound for New Delhi. It is strange…. As a frequent flyer on the

job, I seldom show‐up at the boarding gate before 30 minutes of the departure. Yet, here I

am, keenly looking forward to board the flight, for the journey that I have been planning for

almost 3 years, yet till now, there has been the wait that I had to endure!

I do not know what triggered my immutable surge for the journey to the Mount Kailash.

May be the DVD show by one Major Gopinath from India about his trips to the Mount

Kailash… or perhaps my pal, Sundar from Boston, who emailed me about his helicopter trip.

Something has set the fire in me…. I booked for the trip with my friend SSR Murthy, back in

2009 which was eventually cancelled by the travel agent at the last minute. My other

attempt was in June 2011 for a 12 day sojourn based on helicopter. Everything was planned

and I was about to fly out in 2 days time, when the news came that the Chinese authorities

had closed the Tibetan border and the trip could not be made! Yet, it might be what the

gods thought right for me, as I was able to spend my time with my family in India to fulfil

the commitment for the poojas and abhishekams at our family temple and also for Sri

Akilandeswari at Thiruvanikoil.

Thinking about Thiruvanikoil….. I just recalled the stranger – almost a sadhu like nomad –

who came to me at the temple for some alms to complete his trip, which apparently was

started at the Himalayas and now to be completed at Thiruvannamalai. With no

hesitations, I duly obliged… Sitting at the Airport, I recalled this incident….touching my

pouch to ensure that the packet of ‘Vibuthi’ given by that stranger is intact. It is!

Now the trip is on, I boarded the flight JW 902 bound for New Delhi.


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Day 2 – 14th Sep 11

The flight landed on time at the New Delhi Airport. As a transit passenger to Nepal, I passed

through to the transfer gate. The airport is clean, by any standard to any decent western

airports. I have not been here for a while.

I called Uma and also Anathesh at Trichy. An hour to go by….. I wandered aimlessly for few

minutes. I also bought some travel sickness tablets, which I have never used before,

probably not in the future, but it would complete the list of inventories that the travel agent

has suggested for the trip. I want to be fully prepared. For about 180 Indian Rupees, a pair

of pale looking idlies was my lunch. I searched in vain among the passengers at the Gate

for anyone looking like travelling to the Mount Kailash. I was not in a mood to read a book!

I was in no mood to immerse my thoughts on anything other than Mount Kailash.

I called Mr Badri Shreshta.

Badri is the owner of the company, Kailash Journeys, At Kathmandu. He has been an

enthusiastic and promptly‐responding travel agent so far. Through him only, I had booked

my earlier trip in June which was cancelled. I had already paid him a portion of the money

and that is one but only a small reason to insist on with Badri for the trip. He has been good

in helping with my plans.

I called him to confirm my arrival at Kathmandu. Badri was not there but my voice and text

messages must have reached him.

As the gate was closing, I was walking towards the aircraft. I knew that I will be going to the

Mount Kailash trek, but so far I have no idea with whom I will be going, what the group size

is and what the exact schedules are….

Suddenly the phone rang….

Someone said “Hi rajja… how are you? I am organizing your trip. Can you please pick‐up a

parcel from someone who is at the Delhi Airport… it is important!”.

It was not Badri.

I said, “Sorry, I am just on to the aircraft, there is no way I can meet anyone now…. Who are

you and what is the plan?”

He replied politely, “No problems, I am Ramchandar, I will see you at Kathmandu and

speak”. The line was cut. I sat in my seat. Not sure what was going on.

I switched to an empty window seat and as the plane took‐off, I pressed my face against the

window to seek the grounds of Kathmandu.


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At 2PM Nepali time, I landed at the Kathmandu Thirubhuvanam airport.

As a British passport holder, I needed to apply for a visa on arrival. It costs about 40US$ for

a multiple entry visa, which is a must for those travelling to Mount Kailash or Manasarover.

I needed to provide a passport photograph. With no hassle, all was done. I also exchanged

some money into Nepalese rupees. The luggage was on the belt, ready to be picked‐up. I

loaded them on the trolley and reached to the exit.

There was Anil, an agent for Badri, with a car and driver, waiting for my arrival.

As soon as I sat in the car, Anil had number of phone calls; the driver was frequently

instructed to go on certain routes, apparently not towards the hotel. I felt some urgency in

the air. Anil said that my passport must be submitted before 3PM at the Chinese embassy.

The car penetrated through the thick traffic. At some point, someone waved to stop the

car, collected my passport and went. Anil said that he would take me to the Hotel and Mr

Badri will speak to me about the arrangements. I simply nodded.

The hotel was Vaishali, a 3 star hotel in the district of Thamel at Kathmandu, very much in

the heart (down town) of the city. The Room number is 1201. It was almost 4:10 PM.

Within 10 minutes, couple of chaps from Badri’s office came to the room to inquire about

my arrival and also to collect the money due from me for the trip. I wanted to speak to

Badri, who called me in the next 5 minutes. He said, “Rajja… the trip has already started.

You are going to join a tour organized by the company called 'Satyam'. The party has left

this morning to the border. We will discuss everything in the evening at 7PM. For now,

please remit the due amount to the person….”.

I was bit surprised at the change of events. Yet ,I handed the remaining money due to him.

They left.

I told Anil to wait downstairs to take me to Shri Pasupathinath temple at 5PM. I quickly

changed. I was a little confused. Looks like I have not got the visa yet! The tour has

already started! I have paid the full money! But no problems, I have Lord Pasupathinath

with me… I went down to meet Anil for the visit to the temple.

Anil took me to the temple which is about 40 minutes drive from the Hotel. Anil is a shrewd

young man. I realized that he has association with the “Agarwal” shop selling Rudraksham

and other gift items. Anil also has good relations with the temple priests.

Anil asked me if I would be interested to perform the rudra japa and the milk abhisheka

through a priest. It would cost me 3001 Nepalese Rupees. I was not in a mood to bargain.

It was for a good cause and I readily agreed. It was done.

The temple is beautiful and old; with the river Bagmati flowing behind the temple, the

atmosphere is serene and divine. I learnt that the temple priests are from Kerala and even


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today, by the diction of Sri Adi Sankaracharya, the King of Nepal appoints the temple Priests,

similar to selecting his Prime Minister for the country. Such a coveted position!

I prayed at the temple. The Lord Shiva is in the form of a Lingam, with four faces on four

sides, and also with the 'Adho mukham'. Outside the temple, there are 508 Shiva Lingas

with a zig‐zag path to perform parikrama.

Then Anil took me to the Agarwal shop. I bought few rudrakshams as gifts; I wanted to

immerse them in the Manasarover water as the legend says it would add power. Anil

stayed back at the shop after securing a taxi for my return to the hotel in time to see Badri.

As I was sitting in the lobby, waiting for Badri, a group of tired tourists from India had

arrived. They must have been returning from the Kailash trip… or perhaps they are also

part of the Satyam tour! I wanted to know. I approached a person and asked. He beamed

with pride that he has just completed the Mount Kailash Parikrama. Next to him was a 67

years old gentleman who has completed his 3rd mission to the Mount Kailash. Another lady

approached me and said that she has done the inner kora, a parikrama which apparently is

more difficult to do; it was her first visit and she was clearly happy and proud. All in all, the

lobby was filled with zeal and happiness.

It was 7:30 PM.

Badri arrived and as soon as he saw me, and I saw him, we seemed to recognize each other.

We shook hands and exchanged few pleasantries. Then came the news…. Badri is moving

his customers – that is myself and a family of four from Ludhiana – to go with another travel

group called “Satyam”. It has to be so as this is the last group journey for the year 2011 and

there is a need to assemble groups together to make the journey viable.

The Satyam tour is sending about 23 people from Madurai. They have already left

Kathmandu and will be staying at the Nepal border town called Kothari. The group form

Ludhiana is Dr Rajiv, his parents and their guru Shri Shivanandaji (Swamiji). Apparently,

Rajiv is bringing the passports of the Madurai group, which were for some reason held at

Delhi. (I understood that these passports were the parcel that I was asked to collect at the

Delhi Airport). Until these passports reach Kothari, the Satyam group cannot proceed.

Then came the final news…… I have not got my Chinese visa yet! I was dumb‐founded.

What is going on! What am I supposed to do! At that time, Badri introduced me to a thin,

soft‐spoken person. He is Ramchandar, the manager for the Satyam Group. Ramchandar

was the person speaking to me on the phone when I was in Delhi. Ramchandar looked

simple and nice. He said there in only a 50‐50 chance of me getting the Chinese visa. He

must have noticed the disappointment all over my face….. He quickly added “I will try my

best!”


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The plan was to send me along with the Swamiji and Rajiv’s family to Kothari, the border

town at Nepal. We would leave by 4AM next day. The group which had left early is being

held at Kothari to receive their passports that are now being brought by Rajiv. Once we go

there, except me, everyone will leave for Tibet…..

By the way, there seems to be another person, who has also gone to the Border without the

visa. He is an Italian. I have to stay with the Italian for another night at Kothari to see if the

visa would be granted to pursue the journey or to return back.

I have no words…. By that time Rajiv and his family have arrived. From the first look, I felt

comfortable and warmth towards the family. Badri introduced each of us. Rajiv was

straight to the point. “Hi Rajja, don’t worry ya…. You will get it”. It was nice to gain some

confidence. After some brief conversation, Badri shook hands and left.

Later Ramchandar explained the tour arrangements, gave the blue duffle bags to stuff our

items and advised us to be ready by 4AM in the next day. He bid us good‐night.

It was 11PM then. I knew that I have to get‐up at 3AM. Needless to say, I slept not! Did I

cry…. not sure… but my heart was laden with worry!

I called Uma and asked her to go to Ealing Amman temple.

The night seemed long and boring.


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Day‐3 15th Sep 2011

At 3AM, we started from Kathmandu to Kothari, the border town of Nepal on a 4 x 4. The

Swamiji sat next to the driver. Rajiv and his parents were on the back seat. I was in the

rear, along with the luggage.

The early morning sky was dotted with stars and the waning moon was trailing behind me.

The drive was generally gentle but occasional hair‐pin turns and the checks by the security

official at almost every 10 miles were the norms. The moon was increasingly brighter as we

drove along the hills. The mountains are capped with mist and there is always a flow of

water, as streams at the foot of the mountains.

My face pressed against the rear window. My mind was nearly blank and my mouth kept

reciting some slokams. Rajiv keeps chatting to me, making frequent enquiries about my stay

in the rear. He is a gentleman and shows empathy.

At about 5:30 AM, we stopped at a small town called Banebias. We had hot tea and some

sweet dish like pancake. We then drove to cross the Dolal ghat towards the town Bahra

Bise. Here the river known as “Indravathy” is flowing. Once we cross the Bahra Bise, the

roads have become uneven; there are more hair‐

pin turns. By then dawn has broken and shedding

pale yellow lights on the mountains. The

mountains are now showing their richness in

green. There are all sorts of trees – dark green,

light green, pale green, purple etc. Across the

mountains, there are number of waterfalls – some

are straight; some are misty, some are thundering

giants, some are pencil lines….. falls, falls, falls everywhere. At many places, the roads are

also flooded with seeping water.

At about 9:05 Am, we reached the place called “Thathopani”. This is the border town of

Nepal. The other end of Thathopani is Kothari. A bridge at Kothari known as Friendship

Bridge connects Zhangmu – which is the first Tibetan town under China.

We arrived at Hotel Kailash, near the border.

As I entered the hotel, I noticed that there were lots of tamilians, about 20 from Madurai,

on the Kailash Yatra. They are devotees of the Sri Maha Shiva‐shakthi Sidthar Peetam;

They are spiritually led by their Guru (Madurai Swamiji) and administratively co‐ordinated

by Vijay, a young businessman from Madurai. The group is fully enthralled at the receipt of

their passports and the immediacy of their journey to the Mount Kailash.

Premkumar, the agent at the border for Satyam Tours, took me to my room to keep my

luggage. Premkumar will be my local contact to sort out my issues. I left my luggage in the


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room and came down to join the group for the breakfast. There was a buzz about this place

as the smiling Nepalese were eagerly serving every one. The troop was busy packing their

bags to begin the Yatra.

This is when I met Gabriel – the Italian traveller without the Chinese Visa.

Gabriel is young, serene looking, quite and composed with a charming

smile. Gab has been a student of Kashmiri Saivism for couple of years and is

familiar with India. An LSE alumni, his manners are gentle and I

immediately found a companion in him. Gab and I exchanged few words

and our confidence grew that we would

get visa the next day.

Rajiv, his parents and the Swamiji bid

us good bye. They gently hugged me and said that they

would be waiting for me to join them soon. I said “Yes”.

With everyone gone, Gabriel and I found the place

strangely empty. We decided to take a few hill walks.

We went‐up, wandered aimlessly. We often engaged

on topics that are of general interest but quickly converged to philosophy. I found Gab a

learned and matured person. While I often expressed my anxiety about the Visa and the

journey ahead, he showed composure.

“Sabi” is a young kid working as a chef at the Hotel. He is only 15 years of age and became

very friendly with us. Often he will bring nice tea. At the back of the Hotel, we can see the

river flowing, separating the Chinese settlement on the Tibetan side from Nepal. Gab and I

used to sit in the balcony, sipping the tea and watching the time go by. None of us wanted

to call Ramchandar to inquire about the status of the Visa. I was nervous. Bad news not

welcome!

Evening came. We walked down for about

2 miles. There is a place where for 20

Nepalese rupees, you can have hot shower

under the hot springs. We went there and

bathed for about 2 hours. It started raining

then. At the top of the hot springs, there is

a Siva temple. I prayed at the temple.

Having decided that it’d be foolish to walk

back to the hotel, under such rainy and

dark conditions, we stood under the temple ceilings and waited for a taxi. Luckily there was

one and as we hailed, the driver asked us to wait there for 10 more minutes for his return.


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We did. He came back as promised and picked us up! The drive to the hotel was

challenging. The roads were flooded. Ultimately we reached the hotel.

The Chef and Sabi were waiting for us. They said that as we are the only two people staying

on that night, they would make something special for dinner. Special it was…. A finely‐done

fried‐rice with lentil and hot chai. Wonderful to taste!

Later I tried to call Uma but there was no connection.

We went back to our room. I was searching for the headphone for my MP3 player. I could

not find it. Gab inquired about it and learnt that I wanted to recite the Rudram. Gab said

that we should do so together. We did. To my pleasant surprise Gab has got perfect

diction and pace. He reads Sanskrit texts well. Sitting erect with his eyes half closed, Gab

was reading the Sanskrit text and rendered the mantras flawlessly. We did this for about an

hour before going to sleep.

I was in my bed.

Do I keep praying? Do I leave it to the hands of the God…. I can do no more….. Is He going

to make me cry in joy or in despair? Am I going to move up to morrow to visit His abode or

pack‐up to go home? I was not eager to call Ramchandar. Neither was Gab.

Uma called then. I had nothing new to report. We chatted for few minutes and I asked if

she has been to the Ealing Amman temple. Both Uma and Kavya had been to the temple. I

rested my case.

We bid good night and to the non‐stop lullaby of the flowing stream, we were swayed to

sleep!


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Day 4 – 16th Sep 2011

The morning has arrived. The flowing streams make a thunderous noise now. Gab is up and

has already ordered chai for us. Sabi as ever was trying to get our attention. He was too

eager to offer his service. He has set‐up 4 cups of chai in the balcony. We sat there to

admire the unknown morning.

After about 30 minutes, I ventured to take a shower. There was no hot water. The tap

water was freezing. Reluctantly, I compromised for a bodily wash. Later Gab said that we

should start the Rudram with the ‘Ganapathi Pad’, which he has learnt. I said that I would

listen to him as I do not know it by heart. He laid his special shawl, sat on it with his back

erect, put the slokams on the IPad, and chanted in synchronization. I was listening and

sometimes joining him. Moments passed and from the door ajar, there was a gentle breeze

blowing. That time, Sabi was at the door, knocking gently. I went out to see him. As soon

as he saw me, he jumped and said “Visa Agaya” or the visa has come.

I ran back to the room. Gab paused his chanting and looked at me. I said what Sabi has

said. “Visa Agaya”. We were thrilled, hugged each other. As tears were rolling in my eyes,

Gab said “see, we have not even finished the slokams…. Good news has come!”.

I drew back. We continued the slokam. As we finished, the agent Premkumar was at the

doors with some papers on his hand and serious look on his face. He looked intensely at

both of us; “Rajja, you are going to the Mount Kailash; Gabriel, Sorry, your visa has not yet

come. So you are not going”. His words were short.

My heart sank! I could not look at Gab or meet his eyes. Why does not he earn a place to

join the yatra! What is God’s view? Apparently, there was a perceived problem in his

passport stamps which caused a stand‐still with the Chinese authorities.

I tried to encourage Gab to be calm and suggested that he should stay for another day or so,

to see the outcome. Gab’s eternal optimism was seen intact, but when he wished me luck

and bid good‐bye, I could sense his feelings. I will pray for him. We exchanged addresses

and I shook hands with Gab.

Prem asked me to leave immediately. I packed my stuff, bought MP3 head‐phones at the

local shop and started to move with Prem towards the friendship bridge. Prem has asked a

Nepalese woman to carry my luggage.

In Nepal, I see only the women and young ladies carry

heavy luggage and generally do the hard labour. I felt

really sad. When we were waiting at the Chinese

border, I gave a 50 Rupee note as a tip to the woman,

who quickly grabbed it and hid it in her sari, with a shy

smile of acknowledgement.


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Prem transferred me and the paper work to the Tibetan Agent Lonam, who was waiting for

me on the other side. The plan now is that I will be on a special 4x4 land cruiser with the

Tibetan driver and guide to go to “Nyalam”, the first Tibetan

town where the Satyam group is currently staying. We have

to stay there at least for one night to get acclimatized.

The drive was for about one hour. The Kothari to Nyalam is

about 30 km. This drive is the most exciting. It passes

through the ‘Komalanga’ range of mountains, which are rich in

vegetation and colour. There are hundreds of falls, beautiful

valleys and blue sky‐caps.

I was alone in my car, seated comfortably…. I thought how foolish I have been to worry!

Worry…. Worry is a sign of both arrogance and ignorance. Arrogance because we have not

performed true surrender – the transference of responsibility – to God. Ignorance, because

we assume ownership of the outcome. Here I am, the same one who was hopelessly crying

before, now on a special vehicle reserved for the entire trip, comfortable and on the move.

Why did I worry!

At about 3:30 PM, I reached Nyalam.

The guest house at Nyalam is simple and

unique. As soon as I arrived, everyone came

out to greet me. Of course, Rajiv who was

returning from his walks, beamed a wide

smile from the distance. He was glad to see

me…. So was I to see him.

I have now formally joined the group to begin

the trekking towards Mount Kailash!!


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Day 5 – 17th Sep 2011

Today we are leaving from Nylam to Saga, the next town on the way to Manasarover.

We woke up at 3AM. From the previous night, we were given the Dimox tablet. This is

apparently necessary to accelerate the acclimatization process. I had a sparse sleep. At

about 3:15 Am, hot tea and biscuits were given. With hot water, we refreshed ourselves.

At 4:15 AM, Rajiv and I decided to walk across the mountains before the drive to Saga starts.

Amazing! The moon was just above our

heads. There were three concentric circles

around it! There were so many stars… the

wind was clear and gentle. We walked a

couple of kilometres … there was a valley

and in there, well laid‐out steps towards a

Chinese monument at the centre. We

walked down to see. At the bottom of the

valley, you can see the mountains all around.

The dawn is slowly breaking and each

mountain showed a different profile. We took some

snaps.

As we returned to the camp, we saw Rajiv’s parents and

the Swamiji. They too wanted to see the valley. We

decided to walk back together as it would be a good

exercise. We did so and also snapped more photographs.

We left Nyalam at about 5AM. I was in the car with the Tibetan guide and Nepalese Sherpa.

The drive would be long and will be passing some amazing heights 5700 m at Nylam pass.

The plan was to go to Saga, the next town for lunch, but instead of staying there, we would

drive further to a place called New Dongpa. By doing so, we would be able to shorten the

drive to Manasarover in the following day. Following my car are 5 other cars, each with 4

people from Madurai group and another car with Rajiv’s family. We were cruising along the

beautiful roads.

The drive was comfortable until about 30 km to

Saga, where the roads become muddy with lots of

ups and downs. Overall, the scenario now is different

from the yesterday’s drive. The mountains are now

more dry, mostly black or brown in colour, both

rocky and muddy. The place is arid, desert like land;


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No more vegetation on the hills. Yet there are lakes and streams at the foot of the

mountains.

The Tibetan driver of my car is young and playful. An able driver and

seemingly enjoying music and dance, he kept dancing to the rhythm of the

music in the car. Hindi, Nepalese, English and Tibetan songs were flowing

from his MP3 gadgets. We stopped frequently to ease ourselves and to

enjoy the sceneries. At every stop, we found the Tibetan children running

to us, looking for food and money. We always distributed food, snacks etc

to those kids.

On the way we arrived at Nielamu country. There is a beautiful mountain called Mount Shi

Shabargma, which is considered holy for Tibetans. At the foot hill of the mountain is the

vast, beautiful lake called Lake Perikutso. I thought it is Manasarover as the water looked

dark blue. The Tibetan Guide told me that we will see Manasarover after 300 odd

kilometres but this lake is equally holy for the Tibetans. We stayed there for a while, took

some pictures and proceeded on our way to Saga.

We finally arrived at Saga at about 2PM. Saga is a a china‐town, well built with some

decent hotels. There are Chinese shops. Tibetans are roaming across the streets. Children

wore dirty cloths but beautiful smiles. Many look impoverished. Tibetans who ride on

motorcycles, decorate their bikes with lots of flowers. We parked our cars in a hotel and

the Sherpa served us our food.

After lunch we drove for about 2 hours to reach our place for the night.

This is a guest house called “Gao Yuan Nong Mu” at the

place New Dongpa. The guest house is made‐up of clay.

Like in Nyalam, I stayed with Rajiv’s family and the

Swamiji in a 5 bedroom room. The main issue at the

site is the toilet facility. While the facility was adequate

at Nyalam, here, it is non‐existent!! The open space was

all we had!! I was told, as we progress towards the trek,

such hardships needed to be endured. This is something that must be improved in the

future.

We stayed overnight at the Guest house. As the night fell, the wind

was strong and the cold intense. The Sherpa did their best to offer us

hot food, tea, snacks etc.

By this time, Rajiv is quite popular with the team. His willingness to

help everyone and offer medicine and advice are much appreciated.

Personally, I was drawn more closely to his family. The Swamiji and


14

Rajiv’s parents often talk to me with affection and care.

As the long, interesting journey to Manasarover begins the next day, we went to bed with

lots of expectations and hopes. It was almost midnight!

Day 6 – 18th Sep 2011

This is the day to start from New Dongpa to Manasarover. The drive would be for about 7

hours, to cover 260 km. Our spirits were high.

By this time Rajiv and I are quite close. He discussed how he has moved‐up in his career,

now owning a 45‐bed hospital in Ludhiana. His wife is also a doctor; they have two lovely

sons; Rajiv has taken his parents to Amarnath yatra before. His sole purpose for this Mount

Kailash trip is to fulfil the dreams of his parents and the Swamiji. I was quite touched by

this, as well as his unassuming nature to help everyone. Rajiv’s parents are also quite

special. The mom took an equal interest in me as in Rajiv; while sleeping she will tuck me in

properly with the woollen blanket; when tea arrives, she will hurriedly take out biscuits to

my taste. Rajiv’s dad is quite practical. He will offer candid comments about the food and

service, often speaking his mind. He is a care‐free gentleman.

The Swamiji will engage with me in brief talks. Although my Hindi is not very good, there

was no problem in our communications and the bond was growing stronger. Swamiji would

say that because of ‘Deiva Sampandan’ that we all have met. I offered the head‐worn LED

torch to the Swamiji as he ventured to walk in the darkness. I offered this as a gift and he

gracefully accepted this as a token of my

love.

The morning has broken. The 4 x 4s were

ready. As usual I have got into my car and

we started the journey. The roads are

immaculate, reflecting the continuous

Chinese investments. The clear difference

to this leg of journey from Nepal is the

absence of any green trees or plants. The

land is dry, atmosphere is arid and there is

miles and miles of desert land, dotted with

occasional lakes and streams. The rocks are

quite hard, black or brown in colour.

Along the roads we saw occasional villages

where Tibetans have settled. On the fields we

saw ponies, sheep, mountain goats, yaks and

deer roaming. The crows are big. The


15

beautiful blue sky provided the best background to enjoy the nature. We stopped at places

to take pictures.

My driver was in his element. The Tibetan folk songs were in full blast. Although I had my

MP3 playing Rudram, I cannot avoid the wonderful Tibetan music seeping into my heart. I

was taking the video of the drive.

We drove and passed through the “Mayula Pass”

which is about 5300 m. Following this, we came

across the “Manthatha” mountain range. This is

considered to be holy for the Tibetans. This is

also holy for Hindus. It is said that only in the

mountains, Lord Ganesh was born. The ‘Saravana

Poigai’ where Lord Subramanya was born is also

believed to be on this mountain. It is a beautiful

mountain range and on its foot is a very large lake.

The Tibetan guide told me that soon we would be getting the first glimpse of Manasarover

and the Mount Kailash. My heart was pumping fast! I peeled my eyes and earnestly looked

out.

At the place called “Horcha”, we saw the dark blue

stillness of vast water reservoir on the horizon. At its

backdrop is the huge mountain, known as Vasishta

mantal. And turn right…….! The first ever glimpse of

Mount Kailash. This is the south‐eastern face of

Mount Kailash. As the cars entered the Horche,

according to the customs, the Tibetan drivers drove

the vehicle around the Tibetan Flag posts. This is a

routine ritual to offer their respects. Generally in

Tibet, wherever there is a flag post, there is a temple near‐by.

As soon as the cars stopped, everyone prostrated on the ground towards the Mount Kailash

and also towards the Manasarover. Rajiv and I rushed towards the Mount Kailash. We kept

taking pictures. Not realising that the rest of the team was ready to start the Manasarover

Parikrama , we were still enjoying the tantalizing views of Kailash and taking pictures.

After the call from everyone from the team, we rushed back to our cars. To my surprise, my

car has already gone to Darchan, the next stop, in order for the guide to organize the

logistics. So I joined another car to begin the Parikrama around Manasarover.

Manasarover is a very large lake.


16

Almost like a circle, it represents the Sun. It

is thought to be the Ichcha Sakthi or the

cosmic will of the brahmam. Puranas talk of

Manasarover as the lake produced by Lord

Brahma. It is beautiful. The dark blue deep

waters in the centre, the edges are of light

blue in colour. Almost tide‐less, it is serene.

On one side is the south facing Mount Kailash.

On the other side is the Vashista Mant. I try

to take the video while in the car but it was

impossible. The roads were bumpy. Instead I pressed my face to the window and kept

looking at the Mount Kailash and the Manasarover. I wanted to take the complete view,

inch by inch into my heart and mind. Words cannot describe the beauty. I will be at a loss

of words to describe it to others. So I’d rather soak in the atmosphere and try to cement

the images in the depth of my heart.

A place was chosen along the shores of Manasarover for us to perform the pooja. The

Madurai Swamiji would be setting‐up the Havan

to perform the Puja. The concept of Sri Maha

Shiva‐Shakthi Sidthar Peetam is to see Shiva and

Shakhty as the form of the universal nature and

thus worshipping the mother nature, the

harmony will be restored and the peace prevail.

Vijay gave me some literature about the concept

and explained that under the spiritual leadership

of Madurai Swamiji the team has undertaken

the pilgrimage. The atmosphere was electric.

It was about 4PM. The sun was shining, with the majestic Kailash in the front with the

serene Manasarover, spreading and inviting. All of us started

to prepare for the dip in the Manasarover. Just then I realized

that my change of clothes were in the car that has gone to

Darchan!! I also realized that my ‘sapadika mala’, which I

normally remove from my neck during sleep, has been left

behind in the Nyalam. What shall I do? I am not going to worry

about this. I told Himal, the young Nepali guide about these two

things but left it at that. I entered the water. My heart was

filled with joy. Lord Shiva is looking at me as south facing Mount

Kailash – as my guru Dhakshinamurthy. The freezing water

beneath my hip is already injecting a new energy into my body.

The sun is blazing above as if it is there to burn‐out my sins, past, present and the future.


17

I thought of my parents, my siblings, my wife and children, my friends and dipped. I dipped

again for 3 times. Then I thought of all those who have passed. To their eternal liberation, I

offered oblations through the water. I dipped again a few times. I also dipped all the

rudraksha which I have bought in Kathmandu. The pebbles on the ground under the water

were slippery. I came ashore. I did not have change of clothes. I put the vibuthi, which I

carried in my pouch, on my forehead. I sat down on the shores in my wet clothes. I placed

in front of me, the picture of my parents and Sri Akilandeswari, which I normally carry my

purse. I plugged my MP3 player to get the right pronunciations for the Rudram. I chanted.

The slow breeze was caressing my cheeks. The yellow sunlight was drying my wet body. My

mind was calm.

In the mean time, I saw Rajiv and family were holding hands and dipping for 108 times…

Others too were busy praying and dipping or picking up the magical stones of the

Manasarover. There was joy everywhere.

After about an hour, I went to the site where the havan was being prepared for the pooja.

The Madurai Swamiji has set‐up a huge stone, as linga, completely adored with turmeric

powder, vibuthi, kumkum, flowers etc. It was full of divinity. They have also brought from

Madurai flowers, vilva leaves, coconuts, fruits, deepams, conch and other items essentials

for the yagna. The havan was set opposite to the Mount Kailash. Ghee, fruits, rice and

other offerings were poured into the yagna fire, which was rising as the mantras in Tamil

and Sanskrit were loudly chanted.

Everyone was singing Shivapuranam and other songs. Shivakumar, a businessman from

Kamuthi near Madurai was standing erect and blowing the counch. The sound was divine

and uplifted the whole atmosphere. The passing tourists stood by to witness the rituals

and took photographs. The witnessing Shiva blessed the rituals with the sudden stoppage

of breeze; the wind was still. The holy lamps stood tall; the camphor was lit and the aarti

was shown to the havan, Manasarover and Mount Kailash.

There was a sense of single humanity. Once the aarti was shown, the Madurai Swamiji

ordered to tie a set of new Dhoti and a Sari together as our offering to Lord Parameshwara

and Parvathy. These clothes were to be

submerged into the Manasarover at the

completion of the havan. That time, Himal

came and told me that although it was

deemed as good, nothing should be left in

the Manasarover as it must be maintained

clean. I agreed. Himal informed the same

to the Madurai Swamiji and the team. All

agreed to the rationale, so the ritual was

performed after which the clothes were


18

removed from the lake. We all prostrated before Manasarover and got into our cars to

complete the Parikrama.

This time, I got into Rajiv’s car. The drive took us over the hill and towards another beautiful

crescent like lake. This is called Rakshasa Dal or the lake of the devil. This is also symbolized

as moon. Puranic stories say that Ravanan did the penance here and out of arrogance, tried

to lift the Mount Kailash. At Shiva’s will, he was punished for his misadventure. It is

believed that the Rakshasa dal conceals demonic powers even today. There was no one

near the lake. The water is vast but unlike Manasarover, I found the lake with lot of ripples

and also slightly agitated. In the middle of the lake, there are three small islands. The

Swamiji ordered the car to be stopped. We got down and took some pictures.

Then we continued for about 30 minutes to

reach our guest house. This will complete

about 80% of the Parikrama of Manasarover.

The idea is that when we finish the Mount

Kailash Parikrama, we will be driving around

the Manasarover to complete the

Manasarover Parikrama to its fulfilment.

The clay‐house at the shore of the

Manasarover is our guest house for tonight.

One side is the Mount Kailash and the other side is the Manasarover. We settled in and had

some hot tea and biscuits. We watched the sun‐set and took some pictures. After dinner,

we discussed about the legend of heavenly stars taking holy bath at the Manasarover during

the Brahma Muhurat. We all wanted to see this. The discussion was about the timing. The

Brahma Muhurat is about 3‐4:30 AM in the Indian time… or is it in Nepalese time or in

Chinese time? We were not sure. But in this mood, I suspected everyone will be up all

night!!

We went to bed.

Day 7 – 19th Sep 2011

I was then woken–up by the sudden noise. Everyone was out, some peeping through the

windows, shouting “See that star…. See this one” etc.

I too went out. The sky was full of stars…. Star dusts…. I have never seen such a clear sky

with so many trillions of stars. The moon was half but blazing. The horizon was very clear of

its curvature. The flat Manasarover and the horizon are almost joined together. I saw

three bright stars at the edge of the horizon. As we keep looking at these stars, slowly, they


19

are approaching closer and closer to the edge. Then after few minutes, they appear to rise

slowly.

I am not really sure if the stars do actually dip into the waters but the visual extravaganza of

the shift in the horizon and the dramatic movement of stars across the horizon were

mesmerizing. Added to this was the fall of some meteoroids. I thoroughly enjoyed the

drama which was inspiring and emotional.

After this, some of us went to bed. I wanted to walk towards the Mount Kailash. The dawn

was just on its way. I walked with my MP3 player playing Rudram. The Mount Kailash

looked beautiful….. it invites; it sedates… it stares at you…. You cannot avoid its grace.

Although I have walked for about 2 hours, the Mount Kailash was not near. I decided to

return back. As I walked back, the sun is

emerging in the sky. I took some pictures and

also collected some stones. When I reached the

camp site, Rajiv was up. He was looking for me

and we decided to take one more walk towards

the Mount Kailash. Shivakumar also joined in.

We walked towards the Mount Kailash again.

This time, it is bright with the rays of Sun. After

about half‐an‐hour walk, we returned back to the

site. My thoughts of having a dip in the Manasarover was quickly stopped. The water is

deep at the end where we stayed. Three were barriers to enter. So I have to give up.

After lunch, we set‐off to Darchan.

This is about 40 Km from where we stayed. Darchan shall be the base camp for our Kailash

Parikrama. The accommodation at Darchan was quite decent. Each room has attached

bathroom although the lights will come only between 9‐12PM using solar generators. Rajiv

and I shared a room.

As soon as we have entered the residence, an army of Tibetan ladies and girls paraded to

sell their items. Bangles, crystals, studs, malas etc…. Many of us enjoyed the bargaining.

Bargaining is must as anything can fall in price from 100 Yuan to 10 Yuan. I bought few

items.

We have already requested the Tibetan guide to arrange for a special trip to Ashtapath, a

place from where we can witness the closest view of Mount Kailash. Ashtapath is not in the

itinerary so we need to pay extra for the trip.

After tea, we left for Ashtapath. There is no real road to drive. The 4 x 4s were on their

elements in taking us through flooded rivers and deep ascents. We reached the Ashtapath

after about an hour. While some stayed near the car to witness the South facing Mount


20

Kailash, Rajiv and I went up to gain a very close‐up view of Mount Kailash. Others soon

joined. We sat there and chanted ‘Aum Namashivaya’ mantra for 108 times.

The south facing Mount Kailash is splendid. It shows so many different faces and carvings.

Each of us spotted different perspectives and drew happiness.

Apparently, if we proceed further and descent, we can reach the

foot of Mount Kailash and witness the complete (Visvaroopa)

vision of the Mount Kailash. Looking at the time and the

emerging darkness, we did not pursue. We took lots of pictures

and decided to return to the car.

The “Uma River’ which flows from the Mount Kailash passes as a

stream across Ashtapath. For Tibetans, this is a very holy river.

We trekked down the path, which has lots of stones and oddly

shaped pebbles. There are also rats or mongoose like creatures

that live on the ground. They freely roam and approach passer‐by

for food.

We drove back to our residence. The guides told us that we need to take rest as the

Parikrama for the Mount Kailash begins tomorrow. With zeal, we all went to bed.

Day 8 – 20th Sep 2011

Parikrama Today.

It was understood that couple of old people would

be staying back at Darchan. Rest of us would take

up the Mount Kailash Parikrama. About 9 of us

would do so by walking while others would take

horses. These were planned ahead and agreed

with the Guides. Vijay has negotiated the deal with

the guides and all was set.

The guide has warned us quite a few times not to take heavy items in the back‐pack as the

trekking would be tough. I decided to leave my heavy camera lens behind. Yet my back‐

pack was heavy. Rajiv and I are high‐spirits like any other. We agreed that we should do it

together, and making sure we support the parents and Swamiji who shall be coming on the

horses. We started from Darchan guest house at 10AM.

The drive was for about 40 minutes to a place named as ‘Yama Dwar”. This is situated at a

place called “valley of Gods”. At the Yama Dwar, you can see the Mount Kailash ‐ its South‐

west face.


21

Before going to Parikrama around Mount Kailash, everyone will pray at Yama Dwar. It is a

small temple with a narrow entrance. Normally one should pass through entrance, go

around the temple three times and again pass through the entrance to complete the ritual.

As you pass through the small entrance of Yama Dwar, you would

notice inside, number of things that are hung. I saw a bell in the

middle, a sheep’s head, some birds, horn of yak, human hair, flags

etc. As you go round the temple, you will also see lots of flags

hoisted. Everyone went around the temple. As I went around, I

recited the ‘Mrtunjaya’ mantra (conqueror of death).

The Yama Dwara symbolises the kingdom of death. One attains the

Shivaloka only with the pure astral body. As we do the Parikrama on

the earth around the Mount Kailash, the symbolism of Yama Dwar

and the associated rituals reflect this concept that our bodies become purer before the

Parikrama. It is believed that by doing so, the sincere aspirants of the Mount Kailash

Parikrama will attain salvation.

Then we were all ready. Those who planned to walk were given some walking sticks. It is

absolutely necessary especially when we have to manage the deep descents to follow.

The Mount Kailash Parikrama has three parts.

The first day is to travel from Yama Dwar to the place called Dhirapuk. This will be about 12

KM trekking witnessing both South‐west and the Western view of the Mount Kailash.

The 2nd part is to pass through the most difficult ‘Do La Ma Pass’ and to reach Judulpuk.

This is about 22 KM. We should be seeing the North facing view of the Mount Kailash.

The final part is to reach Darchan to complete the Parikrama, which is about 10 Kms and

also for the opportunity to witness the north east view of the Mount Kailash.

We started the trek. As we walked we noticed

that the mountain range is stunning. Each one of

the mountains looks like some carvings of great

palaces, statutes, and kingdoms. The whole

passage looks like an interior of a great

architecturally planned city. Every hill has a view.

Imagination will bring infinite pictures to mind. As

we walked, we found that resting and drinking

water or energy‐drinks are mandatory. We rested

as we required. Food was common. Everyone shared everyone’s offer. Passing by

Tibetans also received food from our group.


22

We also noticed some Tibetan including women were doing

Parikrama by namaskarams. They respect every inch of the

soil is the Lord and therefore instead of walking, they

decide to prostrate on the ground. In addition to the feet,

they also wear sandals on the hands. They lie flat on the

ground with both arms stretched in front of them. They

mark a line at the tip of the hand and get‐up and walk up to

the line. Then they prostrate and continue to repeat the process. It is really inspiring and

utterly magnificent. I observed a couple of young Tibetan girls doing this. I saluted them

for their courage and devotion.

As we walked, we came across the beautiful

western face of Mount Kailash. As soon as we

saw the Mount Kailash our fatigue and

tiredness vanished. We prostrated in front of

the Mount Kailash and took pictures, before we

continued. As we progressed we also

witnessed the north‐west face of Mount

Kailash. Every time when we see the Mount

Kailash view, Rajiv and I would wait for the

horses to come so that we can tell them about the view and take pictures. We had brought

couple of cans of “Red Bull”, a power drink that gives energy. This was found to be useful.

At about 5 PM, we reached our destination for the day. This is where we see the North

face of the Mount Kailash. However, Rajiv and I, as we have been walking in the front, took

a slightly longer and different route. As a result, we ended‐up on the opposite bank of the

river at Dhirapuk!! It was difficult to negotiate the crossing of the river as the current was

swift and the stones were slippery. Our Sherpas were standing on the other side giving us

guidance. Rajiv led the path and I followed him to reach our guest house.

As soon as we came to our lodge, the wind was blowing wildly. The howling sound could be

heard even though we closed our doors inside the cottage. We rested for about 2 hours. In

the evening, at about 6:45 PM, we saw the sun set. Himal told us that by climbing the

mountain we could see the closest northern view of Mount Kailash. Remember that we

saw at Ashtapath, the closest southern view. Our interests rose almost as high as

Himalaya! We trekked.

Shivakumar, Mahalingam, Sreenivasan,

Senthil, Rajiv and I went up and reached the

feet of Northern view of Mount Kailash. The

view was stunning. Shivakumar brought vilva

leaves and ghee lamps. The wind was blowing


23

and the match‐sticks could not be lit. We all chanted ‘Aum Nama shivaya’. After about 10

minutes, the wind stopped. We lit the ghee lamps. Everyone was given the Vilva leaves.

With reverence we threw the vilva leaves towards the mountains as our humble offerings.

We took some pictures. It was an absolutely fulfilling evening. As the night was setting in,

we decided to climb down to our nests. The Sherpas were ready with hot food (today it

was rice kanchi, which tasted fabulous). We went to bed as our start for the 2nd Day

Parikrama is at 3AM.

Day 9 – 21th Sep 2011

Today is the 2nd day of parikrama around the Mount Kailash.

The team got up at 3AM and refreshed with hot water. Breakfast was corn‐flakes/milk and

chai. As everyone was preparing for the

trek, I walked behind the cottage where we

can see the full northern view of the Mount

Kailash. I took some pictures of the Kailash

under the moon light. With the patchy

clouds on its head, the mount was being

bathed by the hazy moon light. Stars are

twinkling over its head. It was a

magnificent sight.

At about 4:15 AM, we started the 2nd Parikrama.

Our leading Sherpa, a strong man, told us that he would take us through shortest path

possible instead of the long winding trekking path, but it would mean deeper ascent over

the hills. Everyone must use their torch and follow the instruction. The reason for starting

early and to find the shortest route is to make sure that we can pass Do la ma pass by noon.

In the afternoon very strong winds will make the trekking over the pass more difficult. At

about 20,000 feet, it would be tough.

Rajiv has been a great company. He always accompanied me during the trek, and when he

leads, he will stop‐by to ensure that I am there with him safely. We treaded slowly. Torch

lights show the steps to take, steps to avoid. Although the moon light was hazy, it has lent

a romantic shine to the trekking. The body has not yet warmed up in the early hours. So

breathing was difficult and I have to rest for couple of minutes, for every 15 minutes of

walking. The Sherpa encouraged us to continue walking in order to get the body to warm‐

up. Like everyone, I also kept saying Shiva mantras, focused on each step, at every step.

Rajiv kept reminding me to bend forward during the ascent and lean backwards during the

descent. As we rested, we would tend to talk about other things but eventually the topic

would converge to the Shiva and the philosophy of life.


24

The Do la ma pass is truly difficult and challenging. It is quite high and if there is wind, it will

be more difficult to climb. I have been practising walking, especially since May; I have been

regular to the Gym, undertook walking an average of 8 miles or a running for 2‐3 miles

every day. Yet I found the trek tougher, often needed to take rest. When I told this to Rajiv,

he said that I am still able to perform this trek by foot only because of these exercises I did,

else the help of horse would be required. I must agree.

So we persisted…. At one stage we saw the North east face of the Mount Kailash. It is true

that once you see the view of Mount Kailash, your tiredness vanishes. Also a great excuse

to rest. We sat down, had some snacks and took some pictures…. We started again. After

about half‐an‐hour, the Kailash mountain is no more visible. We are moving up the Do La

Ma Pass.

The Do La Mass is holy for Tibetans. The Goddess “Tara” or Kali is the guardian of the Pass.

The Tibetans have hoisted lots of flags at the

top of the Do La Ma Pass. We reached there

and our hearts were filled with joy. We took

some pictures. Those who were coming on the

horses have to dismount at this point. As we

have to descent through deep passes, it is not

possible for the horses to carry the people. So

everyone has to walk down.

The guides told us to start the descent quickly

as it is not advisable to stay at such height for too long. So we started to descent.

Rajiv needed to come with his parents. Rajiv’s mom has bad knee and therefore she has to

be gently escorted. Rajiv suggested that I go with the Swamiji, who is trying to be on his

own to descent. I agreed and started my trekking down to catch‐up with the Swamiji for the

descent. We have also asked one of the Sherpa to descend to fetch some water from the

Gowri Kunt. Rajiv has agreed to co‐ordinate with the Sherpa on this.

As we descend, we can see the Gowri

Kunt on the right side. It is a beautiful

pond; At 18,600 feet above the sea

level, it is the worlds’ highest pond.

Gowri Kunt is deep green in colour.

The legend is that Mother Parvathy is

still mediating at the centre of the

Pond.

It is the holiest place. From above,

when I looked at the Gowri Kunt, it


25

has such an arresting beauty. The water is still, the surrounding is tough tall mountains. I

sat on a rock and kept looking at the pond for a while. I was yearning to see Mother

Parvathy emerging from the pond. I knew that I have long way to go to achieve such vision

but at this time, the mere look at the pond is fulfilling and blissful.

Next to the Gowri Kunt is the Hayagreeva Mountains. These mountains are very famous in

the puranas, where great rishis and seers assemble to meditate and seek the grace of Lord

Shiva and Parvathy.

Slowly and steadily we descended. It was a very difficult trek. If you put one step in a

wrong place, the fall is certain. As I was walking down, fellow trekkers from Madurai

were with me and we helped each other. At some point, we needed to cross over the

layers of ice. At some point, many people had to literally sit down and crawl to descent as

the slop is about 70‐80 degrees. Finally we crossed and the Do la ma pass and landed on

the valley. We still have to walk for another 8 miles.

I waited at the beginning of the valley for Rajiv and his parents to arrive. It took about an

hour or so for them to reach the place. We rested for a while. The horses were waiting

for those who have asked for. Once the horses have left, Rajiv and I started the trek.

We were slow and progressed at a more relaxed pace. Although the path is almost a straight

road, there was a sense of tiredness and fatigue. Since there would be no more sighting of

the Mount Kailash for the day, we were bit slow and some lethargy set in.

We walked, walked and walked.

At one place, where there were tents, we saw Vijay and other friends resting. We joined

them for couple of minutes or so. Rajiv reminded me that if we were to take more rest, we

would lose the momentum and it would be difficult to pursue. So we persisted and

continued. After about 30 minutes or so, we reached our final destination for the day –

Judulpuk.

A clay house as before but the only difference is that there is no sight of Mount Kailash.

We would rest here tonight for beginning an early walk to complete the Parikrama

tomorrow.

Day 10 – 22nd Sep 2011

Today is the final day of the Parikrama around the Mount Kailash. The plan is to leave the

guest house at 4AM to reach the Parikrama end point which is about 10 KMs, where our

cars will be waiting for us; we would then drive to Darchan to pick‐up those who did not

participate in the Parikrama and start our return journey to Saga.


26

We started as planned at 4AM.

This was a relatively easier trek than the previous two days. Yet it would take about 4

hours. As we walked, we saw a glimpse of the North Eastern view of Mount Kailash. In this

view, you can see the mountain range to appear as ‘Bali Peedam’ and part of the Nandhi.

We witnessed this and took some pictures.

It is the Eastern View where you will see the Mount Kailash as a lingam based on icy glacier,

fronted by Nandi and Bali Peedam. Apparently, this view is only possible if you undertake

the inner kora otherwise known as Nandi Parvatha Parikrama. So we will miss this view this

time as we are doing the outer Parikrama.

The trekking was interesting.

On one side we saw the deep valley, with flowing stream of water and the other side the tall

mountains. The sky was beautifully blue and the bright sun was lighting‐up the white clouds

that were scattered. Shivakumar and Senthil were with us and we generally chatted about

the whole trip. There was a sense of jubilation for nearing the completion and a touch of

sadness as we would be leaving this place soon.

Finally we came to the point where the

Mount Kailash outer Parikrama ends.

Although we cannot see the Mount

Kailash from this point, we prostrated on

the ground towards the direction which

the Guides have told us. I prostrated

and, took the mud from the Earth as

vibuthi. Many did the same; some sang;

some were distributing sweets. The

Tibetan drivers and Nepali Sherpa came

to us, hugged and congratulated us. They are simple and innocent people. Their love and

respect for the Yatris are genuine.

While waiting for the horses to arrive, I went down to the flowing river; I drank some

water and filled‐up my bottle; It was refreshing and sweet. When I looked‐up, I saw Rajiv

taking pictures of me; He waved and asked me to come‐up as the horses have arrived. I

went‐up. I saw Rajiv and family were doing the namaskarams. I took some pictures of

them. Both Rajiv and I offered our respects to Swamiji and Parents. Also I offered my

respects to Madurai Swamiji.

The Madurai Swamiji has spotted a place and as the mark of completing the parikrama,

performed a short puja and Aarti. The atmosphere was blissful.


27

Then we all got into our vehicles for the drive to Darchan. As soon as we landed at the

guest house at Darchan, everyone rushed to the only telephone call centre to call their

homes. I waited for my turn and called my wife Uma and my sister Savithri Akka in Trichy.

Subsequently, we all got into our cars for the return journey. Strangely, everyone for the

first time spoke about tiredness, the need to sleep, the need to bathe etc. During the last

10 days, there were no such complaints! Perhaps it was the motivation and the intensity of

purpose that had led us to ignore our pain and petty desires. Now that is achieved, the

elemental issues are gaining foreground. I just started to feel a bit of back pain. I decided

not to complain. But Rajiv, perhaps as the trained doctor, noticed my agony and offered

me some medication.

We were driving back, completing the Parikrama at Manasarover and joining back the

highways towards Saga. The Guide said that we would go to a 3‐Star hotel in Saga that

offers the western facilities with attached bathroom for the night before our early morning

departure to Nepal. That was a relief and a treat to the aching bodies. We reached Saga at

about 6:30 PM. All of us had hot showers, rejoiced about the trip and talked about the

adventure.

We needed to sleep as we are starting at 3Am to Nepal.

Day 11 – 23rd Sep 2011

We left Saga at about 4AM. It was dark. The moon is waning fast towards the new moon

and its dim light show the dusty long road from Saga towards Nyalam. I knew that the first

30 KM was going to be difficult to drive but more difficult will be for me to sit with this back‐

ache. Rajiv has given me some pain killers.

My Tibetan driver has not lost any quota of his enthusiasm. For him, driving is his natural

skill. He drove as if the lack of light or the deep and threatening drops were of no issue. Of

course, Hindi and Tibetan songs were blasting. I was not interested to sleep as I felt the

time is running away and I may not have another opportunity to see this place. I kept

looking at everything again and again.

I knew that we would be crossing Nyalam. Rajiv has told Himal, the Nepali Guide that on

the return to Nepal, he should go to the Nyalam guest house to secure the ‘Spatika mala’

that I have left behind; I have also made this request to my Tibetan driver. I was not

hopeful. Suddenly the car took a right turn through a small valley and in the next 10

minutes I was at the Nyalam guest house. It was 7AM. Both Himal and the Tibetan guide

shouted the names of the house keeper. Eventually after 15 minutes, the house keeper

came. I went into the room to search for it but in vain. When I came out, the Tibetan

driver was beaming with a cheeky smile. On his neck was my mala. As he removed and put

it on my neck, I hugged him in gratitude. Then we got on to speed‐back to Nepal.


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We are back on the Komangala mountain range as we are

approaching the Nepal border. The beautiful mountains were inviting

back to the green Nepal. As we are near the border town, sheep

were on the road in batches. Literally, the drive has to slow down to

penetrate through the sheep. Ultimately we arrived at the border at

10:15 AM.

Himal did the last minute shopping for his family. It was a Chinese

made rice‐cooker. He asked me to carry across the border and

advised me to pay any duty as legally imposed. He would pay back

and collect it in Nepal. I gladly obliged.

The Chinese authorities were efficient in dealing with the formalities. I bid good bye to the

Tibetan guide and driver. When all cleared, we came into Kothari. At the entrance was

Prem Kumar, who promptly collected our passports to take it to Nepalese immigration

authorities to get the stamps.

Now we are in Nepal. The plan is to have breakfast in a hotel and board the bus waiting for

us to take us to Kathmandu. We had nice hot pooris and tea for breakfast.

As we were walking towards the bus, it struck me that I must meet Sabi, the young teenager

at Hotel Kailash. I took momentary leave from Rajiv and went to

Hotel Kailash to look for Sabi. The hotel was empty as the season is

coming to an end. I went inside. In the big lobby, in front of the

Television was Sabi, sitting alone and watching some Hindi show. I

called for him. He turned back, ran towards me and hugged me….

“Aap Teek Hai?”…. he inquired my well being. I said yes. We were

both happy to see each other. I gave some money to him. Initially

he refused and on my insistence he took it. I said good‐bye to him,

with the repeated advice to find an opportunity to study.

He said yes, knowing that he might not get such chances. Then he ran to the desk, picked

out a note book and pen. He asked me to write my address and contact numbers as if he is

going to be in touch with me forever. I gladly obliged. He said that he would like to see me

again with my family. I said yes and I would like to see him again the future. I left. I was

sad that I was not able to offer any concrete help to Sabi but I will pray God for his

successful future.

We got into the Bus which is moving slowly towards Kathmandu. It was raining and

everyone was tired. At some place, the bus stopped and we all had some hot tea. As we

progressed again, the Madurai Swamiji has asked the Bus driver to stop the bus at a

particular spot. Apparently, while coming to Kothari, the Madurai Swamiji has found this

spot and performed the pooja for the successful trip. Rightly, he wants to repeat the pooja


29

as a mark of completion. The chosen spot is opposite to a mountain, where a huge Siva

Statue is erected. The bus driver did stop the bus at the right spot.

Although it was raining slightly at that time, everyone went down to

see the Madurai Swamiji performing the aarti. It was a joy to see

the perfect end to the Yatra.

At about 6PM we reached the Hotel Vaishali at Kathmandu. Rajiv

and I shared a room. In the evening we strolled around the high‐

street of Kathmandu. It was my fist visit to Kathmandu down‐town

which was buzzing with activities. Everywhere are shops that sell

gift items and Nepal handicrafts. We roamed for about 30 minutes

or so and retuned back to the hotel.

I got the confirmation from Uma that my flight has been reorganized for my return on the

25th September. I must now pack my stuff for the return journey.

Day 12 – 24th Sep 2011

The day started at 7:30 AM. Badri has organized a car to pick‐up Rajiv’s family and myself

for the visit to Shri Pasupathinath temple. It

was nice for me to go there again to complete

the trip. We went to the temple and with the

help of some priests, we had closer dharshan

of Swami.

We bought some gift items. Rajiv’s mom

bought me the ‘Saligram’. She politely

refused my thanks for this gift. We returned

to the hotel. Rajiv and family were leaving at

1PM to New Delhi. I bid them good‐bye and we agreed to be in touch in the future. We

will.

Afternoon, I took the cab to see the Narayanar Temple in

Kathmandu. Here Lord Vishnu is sleeping on the snake bed.

It is a very interesting temple. After this, I got back to the

hotel to sort out my flight back to London.

In the evening, Ramchandar came to

the hotel to inquire about the trip. I

really find his professional approach appealing. Both Ramchandar and

Himal did a commendable job on behalf of Satyam Travels; It is truly a

good company to plan for future travels. I have asked Ramchandar

and Himal to organize the Manasarover water in the containers for me

to carry back home.


30

It was very nice to meet fellow Tamilians from Tamilnadu,

which made the whole trip quite exciting. Vijay is the co‐

ordinator for the Madurai team. I recall thankfully, how

Vijay and Shivakumar took great interest in packing the

Manasarover water bottle for me. In the evening, I went for

a stroll. Met Vijay and the rest of the team; As we were

browsing in a light shop, I picked up couple of lamp‐shades.

Vijay too bought some. In spite of my resistance, Vijay paid

for my merchandise too, as his compliment. I thanked him

for this gesture.

In the evening we exchanged addresses for our future contact. Mr Badri Shrestha also

called me to inquire about the journey and his representative met me in the evening. He

would come and pick‐me up at 7AM for the journey to the Airport, as per the travel package

deal.

Day 13 – 25th Sep 2011

At 6AM, I have come down to the Hotel Lobby with the all the items packed. This is the

first time during the trip, I had the chance to speak with the Madurai Swamiji. We had

breakfast together and we discussed about few things. It was interesting to share many

common ideas with him. He has invited me to visit him and the temple in Madurai during

my next visit to India. I will surely avail any such opportunity.

My luggage was loaded in the bus, by which the Madurai team is leaving for the Airport.

Badri has sent his car with the driver and the representative. I took the ride on the car to

the airport, following the Bus. At about 7:30AM we were at the Kathmandu airport. I

checked in. When I passed the security gate, the holy stones that I had in my hand‐luggage

was seen as impermissible items to carry. I needed to check‐them back. I have put all the

stones in a small bag, went down to the departure desk and checked in as a boarded

luggage.

The whole team was on the Jet airways flight to Delhi. When we landed in Delhi, I bid

good‐bye to the Madurai team to transfer to my gate for London‐bound flight.

Finally I arrived on time at London Heathrow. Apparently, the checked bag with the

Manasarover stones has not arrived on the flight. I have made the complaints, hoping that

it will come to me. As I walked out of the air‐port, Uma and kids were waiting at the

entrance. Their joy was in their face and mine was deep in my heart.

I thank God for the opportunity and have decided to write about the trip to inspire others to

undertake such penance I will do so in the future. May He grant me the will and wisdom!

Aum Nama Shivaya


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Few Points:

The tour to Manasarover and Mount Kailash is a pilgrimage. Yet, when we go with

the right frame of mind, openness and enthusiasm, it will offer more to the eyes and

the minds.

The more determined you are, easier it will be to complete the trip.

Physical fitness is necessary; you do not need to be a marathon runner but must be

able to endure long walk in a tough terrain. So prepare both mentally and physically

in advance.

The Sherpa and the guides from Nepal and Tibet are lovely people. They depend on

our visits and therefore their foremost interest is to keep us safe and happy during

the entire trip. Be nice to them.

Don’t be fooled by the dirty cloths and shabby looks of Tibetan tribes. They have

the hearts of gold. Their love is genuine.

Make sure you enjoy your group. The group makes the difference; if you need to join

an unknown group, make it a point to move freely with everyone. The goal is

common – to complete the Parikrama. Human bonding is more easier at adverse

conditions, provided you are prepared!

Do not carry more than necessary. During Parikrama, lighter your luggage, better is

the travel.

Mount Kailash and Manasarover will captivate you, no matter what your beliefs are.

The majesty of the mountains and the vastness of the terrain will humble you; yet it

will heal your heart and provide you with confidence.

Transformation is what we need, that is what we will get.

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