HANDBOOK FOB TRAVELLERS

IND IA

BURMA AND CEYLONINCLUDING THE

PROVINCES OF BENGAL , BOMBAY, AND MADRASPUNJ AB , NORTH -WEST PROVINCES, RAJ PUTANA,

CENTRAL PROVINCES, MYSORE, ETC .

THE NATIVE STATES,

A SSAMAND CASHMERE

F0URTH EDIT] ON

W ITH SEVENTY’FO UR MAPS AND PLANS

L OND O N

J OH N MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET

CA LCUTTA : TR ACKER, SPINK,a 00.

1 9 0 1

EXTRACT FROMTHE

PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION

SINCE th e publication of the H andbook to India, in four volumes,time and events have effected great changes, not only in the

country itself, but also in the facilities for reach ing it from all parts

of the world, and for travelling throughout the peninsula. The

public, moreover, are yearly becoming better aware of the glorious

field which in India is Opened up for the enjoyment of travel and

sport, and of the inexhaustible opportunities afforded them for the

study of an engrossing history, an interesting nationality, and an un

rivalled art, as displayed not only in architectural monuments, but

also in native industries and handicrafts. On this account, and in

consequence of the yearly increasing tide of travellers setting towards

India, the publisher has found it necessary to arrange h is guide in an

entirely new form. It has been to a great extent rewritten, thoroughly

revised, and condensed into one handy volume.

Th e accounts ofmost places described in th is book have been revise

on the spot , and in this revision the publisher has received much kind

assistance from civil servants and others resident in different parts of

India. H e takes th is opportunity of tendering to them his grateful

thank s, as also to the following persons wh o have assisted him in

various parts of the book Dr. Burgess, Dr. Bradshaw,LL.D.,Mr. H .

Beauchamp, Major F. Spratt, RE , Mr. R C larke,

Mr. J .

Westlak e,Mr. G.Marsden,Mr. E. A . Smith ,Mr. Ottewill particularly

to the H on. Sir Arthur Gordon, who, with exception of the

description of Colombo and the fi rst route, has written the whole

of the account of Ceylon from his own personal knowledge and wide

experience of that country and finally to Professor Forrest, Keeper

of the Records in Calcutta, through whose hands the wh ole of the

proofs of India have passed.

”

November 1892.

PREFACE

TO THE TH IRD EDITION IN ONE VOLUMETHE publish er dedres to express his sincere thanks to the following

gentlemen, from whom he has received very valuable assistance in the

pireparation of this Edition : Mr. H . Beauchamp,Mr. R. E. Acklom

,

r. G. Marsden,Surg. Lieut.-Col . Joubert,Mr. Playford Reynolds,

andMr. Basil Lang ; to Lord Stanmore, wh o has reu sed his account

of Ceylon and finally toMr. Norwood Youn%for the trouble he has

taken as Editor in the revision ofthe present dition.

Besides a thorough general revision, this Edition has much additional information m the Introduction as to the 0ple

Short accounts are given of theMohammedan, B in 11, and Buddhistreligions, supplemented by illustrations of Buddha andH indu ods Indian archi tecture, arts, and irrigation are describedand a s ort precis ven of the chief events of theMutiny, with a

ma sho the tribution of British and Native troo inMayI85 But or th e faulty situation of the British troops, t eMutinywould never have become serious yet in no previous account has a

map been issued to illustrate this vital point . The chronolo has

been entirely rewritten and maps of rainfall, temperature, an land

products have been added.

Th e spelling of Indian names is in a state of confusion which callsloudly for reform. Th e offi cial spe suggests a false pronuncia

tion, and has been rejected by the pu lie. The railway companies ,from whom much was hoped, refuse to accept each other

’s spelling

s,

and do not adhere to one, two, or even three separate spellings of e

names of their own stations. There are only three towns in Indiawith a fi xed spelling

— Bombay, Calcutta, and Madras . Oodeypore,offi cially Udai ur, has seventy

-two variations. In this H andbook th emost usual 5 g is aimed at .The uh er, aware that it is impossible to ensure perfection in

any gui e-book, however carefully prepared, that where in

accuracies are found th e indulgent tourist point th em out

to him,with a view to their correction on the fi rst 0 portunity. Any

such acceptable communications may be addressedto Mr.Murray,50 Albemarle Street

, London, W .

PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION

This Edition is practically a reprint of th e third Edition, th e onlyalterations being such corrections and additions as were necessary to

bring it quite u to date. The ublisher desires to thank Dr. J ames

Burgess, of Edin urgh, for the v nable assistance he has given in th is

respect .

J amuary 1901.

C ONTENTS

PAGELIsr or Room s THROUGH INDIA , BURMA , AND CEYLON

LIST orMars AND PLANSSour. C IRCULAR TOURs

INTRODUOTOBY INFORMATIONEnglish Language

Travelling Servants

Season for Visit to India

Expenses xv n

C lothingBedding xviii

H otels

Dak Bungalows (India) .

Rest-H ouses (Ceylon)Food

Sport

H ints for CampingBooks

Preservation ofAncientMonumentsVoyage from England to Bombay xxiii

People of India—MohammedansH indus

Buddh ists

Sikh s

Parsis

Arch itecture

Irrigation

TheMutiny of 1857

Remarkable Events connecting India

Some Native Terms

A few Hindu Words lxxxvu

Indian Coinage

Abbreviations used in th is book

INDEX AND DIRECTORY

CIRCULAR TOURS

Tour K— Bou n y and back , TourL—Conon o toBOMBAY,via CALICUT, MADURA, via CAL ICUT,MADHAs, CA I.MADRAs etc OUTTA, DRLH I, Jw om an.

ofRte. 1

Rte 28

14 .1days

TourM— CO LO IIDO to B OMBAY, via CALICUT,MADRAs,

Tour I— BOMBAY and back , BOMBAY , ALLAH ADAD, BENvia JUB BULPORE, CALC U'rrA , ARES , DELH I, BARODA.BENAREs, DELH I, BARODAetc.

Co

kimbo to Calicut, as inTour

Bombay toDelh i, as inTourA . Calicut to Bombay, as inTourDelh i to Bombay, E. H .

09 days 1Bombay to Delh i, as in Tour

A .

Delh i to Bombay as in TourTourK— Coronmo toBom v

l

Coéombo

to

‘3 dm ‘

tea

Tuticofigr

mail) 23 TourN— C O Loq tO B ousAv,

Madura (Rte 31) to Bombay, via CALICUT,MADnAs, Bouas in Tour H RAY , KARACH I

,LAH ORE

Bombay to CalcuttaandDelh i, Caw om .ALLA'

HABAD, andas in Tour A.

BOMBAY.

Delh i to B ombay, as inTourE.

Colombo to Bombay, as in45 days.

1 Tour H .

as in TourA.

TourA.

Detour to Assammahputra River,and 203 .

These figpres prepresent the sh ortest limit of days given byMessrs. T. Cook

performing t ejourney

Colombo to Madam, as inTour K.

Mafidura toMadras

,as in Tour

Madras to Calcutta Darjeeling, Rte. as in our E.

Calcutta toDelh i,as inToa .

Alwar Rte. 6.

Agra to Bombay (reversed), asIn Tour A.

49 days)

etour tO Qnetta. fli

t

dahar),Rte. 15 ,can I)to Tours A .B .C .N.

Detour to Pesh awai18, can be joined ti

etour to Gays , R tan s t o :be joined to Tom

etOur to.

Gwalior, Ican bejoined to Ton

INTRO DU CTORY INFO RMA TIO N

EnGLIsH LANGUAGE

A TRIP to India is no longer a formidable journey or one that

requires very special preparation. English is spoken in all the hotels

(but no t in th e dak bungalows) and European shops have good

articles for all ordinary requirements, with attendants wh o speak

TRAVELLING SERVANTs

A good travelling servant, a native who can speak English , is indis

pensable, but should on no account be engaged without a good personal

character or th e recommendation of a trustworthy agent . Such a

servant is necessary not only to wait on his master at hotels,dak

bungalow s,and even in private h ouses, where with out h im he would

bebut poorly served but in a hundred different ways when travellingbyrail or otherwise

, and as an interpreter and go-betweenwhen dealing

with natives. H aving ascertained beforehand from h is agent the fair

wages wh ich his servant ough t to be paid, the master sh ould take care

to come to some definite arrangement with h im before engaging him.

It is advisable to have an agreement in writing. If the servant

proves satisfactory, it is th e custom to make him a small present before

parting with h im. The same remarks apply to a lady’s ayah . Madras

ayahs th ough expensive are considered the best. If the traveller has

friends “up country,” it is well to write beforehand and ask them to

engage a servant for him, and to send h im to meet his master at the

port of arrival . Up-country servants are often cheaper and more

reliable th an those to be met with on the coast .

RAILWAYS

In Bombay, the Indian A .B .0. Guide and the Indian RailwayTravellers

’Guide

,and in Calcutta

,Newman’

s Indian Bradshaw, give

maps, the railway routes for all India, and steamer routes For rail

ray purposes the h ours are counted up to 24, as in Italy thus

xvi RAILWAYS— SEASON I ndia

is P.M., and so on. Railway time through out India is Madras?time. The difference is as follows

Karachi time is 52 min beh ind railway time.Mooltan 36

Lahore 23

Delhi 13

A

gra 10

A lahabad 7 min before railway time.Calcutta 33

Ch ittagong 46

A t most of the larger towns there are several stations . The traveller

sh ould not, as a rule, book for the “city,”but the cantonment

station. Before booking he sh ould note what station is mentioned in

the H andbook. The Railway Companies in India do much for th e

comfort of travellers. Every l st and 2nd class compartment is pro

vided with a lavatory, and the seats, wh ich are unusually deep, are so

arranged as to form couches at nigh t, but are not furnished w ith

bedding or pillows. There are refreshment rooms at frequen t

intervals, and some of them are very well managed and supplied

but when travellers intend to make use of them for dinner or

otherwise they sh ould signify their intention to the guard of th e

train beforehand and he will telegraph (free of charge) to have

everything in readiness at the station indicated on the arrival

of the train. The Station-masters are particularly civil and obliging,and, as a rule

,are most useful to travellers in providing ponies,

conveyances, or accommodation at out - oi the-way stations if notice

is given them beforehand they will also receive letters addressed

to their care,— thiS is often a convenience to travellers. One

drawback to travelling in India is that baggage is occasionallytransh ipped from one train to another— cg. at a junction or from an

express to a slow train— in wh ich case a traveller may arrive at his

destination and find that his luggage will not reach h im for some

hours. Every inquiry, therefore, should be made beforehand as to

the stations where luggage is lik ely to be transhipped, and the

traveller sh ould make a point of ascertaining that it is deposited in

the same train with h im. At every station carriages of some sort

await the arrival of the trains.

SEASON FOR V ISIT To INDIA

The season for a pleasant visit to the plains of India lies between

15 th November and l othMarch,but in the Punjab these dates may

be sligh tly extended then, however, the heat will be found tryingat the ports of arrival and departure. October and April are as tryingmonth s as any in the year, much more SO than J uly, August, and

September, when rain cools the atmosphere.

EXPENSES— CLOTHING

EXPENSES

Owing to the depreciation of the rupee, the travellerwhose finances

are upon a gold basis will find India a cheap country. The h otels

charge 5 to 7 rupees a day for board and lodging. As walk ing in

the h eat of the day is better avoided, even in the cold weather,

carriages have to be used in order to visit the various objects Of

interest. The charge for a day varies from 5 to 10 rupees according

to the locality, and the number of h orses required. In a hotel a

small gratuity may be given to the water carrier bh isti Guests

at private houses generally fee the ch ief attendants. The railwaycharges aremoderate. The traveller starting on a journey does well to

provide h imselfwith a sufi ciency of small change.

CLOTHING

Not very long ago it was th ough t essential to have a Special outfi t

prepared for a journey to India. Th is is scarcely the case now .

For t h e V oyage a few warm clothes for the northern part

and th in ones for the Red Sea and Arabian Sea are required. As

regards th e ligh ter clothes,a man will find it convenient to have a

very thin suit of cloth or grey flannel for day, and a th in black coat

for dinner. It Is not necessary to dress for dinner on board ship.

A lady cannot do better than provide herselfwith thin Sk irts of

tumore-Silk or some such material, and th in flannel or silk sh irts.

Shoes wit h indie-rubber soles are the best for the deck , as they afford

good footh old when the vessel is unsteady .

On Baggage-days, which occur once a week , boxes mark éd wanted on

voyagemay be brough t up from the h old, and suitable clothes taken

out or stowed away according to the temperature and weather.

For a.w inter tour in th e plains of India,a traveller requires

similar cloth ing to that which hewould wear in the spring or autumnin England, but in addition he must take very warm winter wraps.

A man sh ould have a ligh t overcoat in wh ich he can ride,and a warm

long ulster for nigh t travelling or in the early morning. A lady, be

aides a jacket and shawl,should have a very thin dust

-cloak , and a loose

warm cloak to wear in a long drive before the sun rises, or to Sleepin at nigh t when roughing it. Tourists should remember that theevening dews are so heavy as to absolutely wet the outer garment, thenights and mornings are quite cold, and yet the middle of the day ISalways warm, sometimes very hot, so that the secret of dr

essing is to

begin the day In things that can be thrown offas the heat Increases.

In Bombay and Calcutta, and, in fact, all along the coas t andin the so u th of th e peninsul a, much thinner clothing 18 required.

C ool linen suits for men, and very thin dresses for ladies, also Khakee

riding and shooting-suits, can be got cheaper and better In India than

il l h gland, and a native tailor will make a very satisfactory suit

CLOTHING— BEDDING

from an English pattern. Linen and undercloth ing for a t lea ;

weeks should be taken,— with less the traveller on arriva l l

inconvenienced, or even detained until h is board- sh ip c lo t ]

washed. The Indian washermen,though not as bad as th ey I

be, destroy th ings rather rapidly. W inter clothing will be 11 6“

if it is intended to visit the h ill - stations . Flannel or

underclothing and sleeping garments and a flannel Kummu r ss

(a strip of flannel 3 yds. long and 1 ft. wide worn round th e ito be worn at any rate at nigh t, are strongly recommended.

The h ospitality of India involves a considerable amount of

out, and therefore a lady, unless She

be provided with several evening dre

formen, and riding-habits for ladies

A good sun-hat is an essential.

Terai, and is indispensable in real h ot weather.

have a large ch oice of sun-hats and helmets forThe Sola orpith hats are very ligh t, but brittle an

they can be bought in India very cheaply. A

the umbrella is also a necessary, especially for a lady, and

for the cool hours of the morning and evening will be fo

convenience.

Travellers in Ceylon will seldom require any but the

cloth ing, except in the mountains, where the

proportionately cooler as he ascends. At Kandyat Nuwara Eliya warm wraps and underclothing, are

BEDDING

Every traveller who contemplates a tourmust on

provide himself with some bedding, wh ich he sh oul

everywhere, even when on a visit to friends, and

at hand on a railway journey. Except

is either no bedding at all or there is

dirty. The minimum equipment is

quilts (Bazais), one to sleep on,the

raeai and a couple of warm blank

usually very th in,but they can be

To these Should be added a pillow case,

blank et. A waterproof cover to wrap the beddingbe omitted

,with a pocket to contain pyjamas, etc

time the bedding is carried any distance by a coolya pony it may be very much dirtied A waterproof

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

sPoaT—‘

Hm’

rs TOR OAIIPt

should be boiled. Water from a public fi lter should not be touch ed.

If the traveller leaves the beaten track he must have a Tifi n-bask et,

wh ich should contain knives and forks and other simple fi ttings, and

sh ould always be kept furnished with potted meats, biscuits, some

good Spirit, and soda-water,which is good and cheap in India added

to this an Etna will be found a great convenience.

SPORT

Al th ough no regular attempt is here made to give advice to sports

men, a few sporting localities have been incidentally indicated in th e

routes. The equipment for these amusements varies from day to day,

and each man must best know h is own wants. Large-

game shooting is

very expensive and takes time moreover, it should not be attempted

except in company with a good Sh ikari and with the assistance of

persons of local importance. O therwise it would probably involve

a mere waste of time and useless trial ofpatience.

Small game shooting, wild- fowl , etc. ,

with an occasional Sh ot at

an antelope, is an easier matter,and will afford excellent sport . It

can be got from Nov. till Feb. ,Often at very small cost

,by Spending a

nigh t or two at some wayside railway station or near some. remote

ruined city. Near cantonments the ground is always too much Sh ot

over to afl'

ord good sport. Firearms are subject to a heavy duty wh en

brough t into the country.

H INTS EOR CAMPINGTravellers who intend to leave the beaten track for the purpose

of visiting remote or ruined cities,or with the intention of shooting,

should take a small tent or two with them. A good servant will be

able to help his master in many details of camp requirements. Trans

port , in the Shape of camels,carts

,baggage

-

ponies, or bearers, can be

got in any station, and in the larger places riding ponies and carts for

hire can be obtained.

Simple requirements for camp consist in— Tent (Cabul tent, 80 lbs.

complete) for self,and

,if cold, tent for servants. Camp-bed w ith

solid side poles (i.e. not in pieces as in the home-made camp-beds),table

, and chair. Bath (indie-rubber flat bath) and a board to stand

on otherwise tubbing can be done by means of native pots of water

poured over head. Fresh native pots can be obtained at any village

the old ones left behind on moving camp. A tent kanaut to use

as a bath -room. A few iron tent-pegs (and wooden ones for so ft

ground), a mallet. Carpet for tent. Washing basin ch ilumch eeand stand. H ook s to strap on tent-pole to hang clothes on, etc.

C ook ing-

pots degch i a fry-

pan. A few knives, forks, and spoonsa few iron plates, cup and saucer, mustard, pepper, and salt pots, anIron dish or two. A second tent (small) is always useful to cook in, if

h ired. HINTS TOR CAMPING— BOOKS xxi

raining. Servants required in camp are— a boy to wait, a cook , a

water- carrier bhisti grooms for horses, and camel or cart men.

All food for self,except milk and fresh meat, must be taken from

station. Food for servants, milk and meat (goat or sheep), can be gotin any but the poorest villages. For clothes take blankets

,sheets

(luxury), etc. An Indian shooting suit . Rough boots and gaiters.

J erseys. A few shirts, pyjamas, handkerchiefs. A ligh t flannel suit

or two and Slippers for camp. One good sun-hat for Shooting in, a

second sun-hat and a cap for camp wear. Take soap, towels, sponge,shaving

-

glass, mosquito -net and sticks for it,in case of mosquitoes

giving much trouble at nigh t. (If ladies are in the party, more

servants, tents, food, and luxuries will probably be required.)Remember to have all boxes and carpet shifted every ,

morning if

white ants are about.

For arms— the plainer the better 1 central fi re D.E. hammer

l 2-bore gun I express rifle, 500 bore 12 -bore cartridges,

empty . C urtis and H arvey’s No. 6 powder can be got in any ordinary

station. Sh ot should be got at Bombay, as upo country it is generally

mixed.

For medicine, plenty of quinine in 2 or 4 grain tabloids or pills

(to be tak en before or after food wh enever a ch ill is felt), 1 bottlechlorodyn e, 2 boxes of Cock le

’s pills. If not used by oneself

, theyare useful to give to servants or villagers.

BOOKS

The R ise and Expansion of the British Dominion in India, by Sir

Alfred Ly all (J ohnMurray), and A Brief H istory of the Indian Peoples,by Sir W . W . H unter (Clarendon Press), are small

,h andy volumes

which every traveller should possess. The following are also recom

mended — The Indian Empire, by SirW . W . H unter (Triibner Co.)History of Indian and Eastern Architecture, by J ames Fergusson (J ohn

Murray) A Glossary ofAnglo-Indian Words and Phrases,by Sir H enry

Yale and Arthur C . Bumell (J ohnMurray) The Conversion of India,by Dr. George Smith (J ohn Murray) ; Asiatic Studies, by Sir AlfredLyall Industrial Arts of India, by Sir George Birdwood (Chapman)AM H istory of India, by Talboys Wheeler A H istory of the Indian

Mutiny ,by H olmes Ancient andMediaeval India

,byMrs.Mann

Indian W isdom,by SirMonierW illiams Se

’

ta,Tara

,Tippoo Sultaun,

and A N oble Queen, byMeadows Taylor ; Bernier’s Travels, 165 6-1668

(Constab l e’s Oriental Miscell any, vol. and a simple guide to the

Im age, H ow to Speak H industani, by E. Rogers, I s. (Allen CO .)Mod ern writers on Cashmere are Walter Lawrence

,Dr. W . T.

W e , C aptain Bates, Dr. T. Ince,andMr. Drew. Route maps

w e been published byMr. J ohn Collett and CaptainMontgomerie.

ANCIENTMONUMENTS

the account of that island by Sir J . Emerson Tennent, K.

2 vols , 8vo (Longman), 18 5 9 . It has never yet been

SirMonierW illiams’s Buddhism,1 vol.

,8vo (Murray), 1889 .

Army and Civil Lists and a useful Postal guide are to be

all C lubs. For books on Burma, see p. 418.

THE PRESERVATION or ANCIENT MONUMENTSThe striking arch itectural monuments of India— H indu,

andMohammedan— must largely attract the

carried out through the engineeringment,— the Oflicers ofwhich havenot

of arch itecture,—theirwork has too

to the monuments to be repaired

misch ievous policy are numerous.

th is department

and Rajputana,questions of co

insured, as well

except BIjapur, which seems to have been wholly handeP. W . engineer, the monuments have generally been

consideration, but many have been too much neglected.

Introd. ENGLAND To GIBRALTAR xxiii

VOYAGE FROMENGLAND TO GIBRALTAR,MALTA

, PORT

SAID, THROUGH TH E SUEZ CANAL AND RED SEA

TO ADEN AND BOMBAY.

The comfort of the voyage depends much on the choice of the sh ip,and the cabin.

1 The largest sh ips, as having less motion and more

room on deck, are usually preferable to smaller ones. The cabin

should be as near the centre of the sh ip as possible. In going through

the Red Sea to India the cabins on the port side are the best,as they

do not get heated by the afternoon sun. On the return voyage the

cabins on th e starboard side are better, but the difference is not material .

On going on board it is well to secure a seat at table at once,as

after th e first day at sea, when seats have been arranged, it is diflicult

to make a change the seats are usually allotted by the chief sk ward.

It is usual to give at least 10s as a fee to the cabin steward, and 1OS.

to th e one who waits on you at table. The doctor also is fee’d by those

who put th emselves under h is care. Goingby sea fromEngland, through

the Bay of Biscay, the saving in point ofmoney, as compared with the

expense of the overland route acrom the Continent of Europe, is about

£15 . It involves much less trouble, and little or no risk of losingbaggage. The fi rst place sigh ted is generally C ape La H ague, or

Hague , on the E. coast of Cotentin in France, off wh ich , on the 19 th

ofMay 169 2 Admiral Russell, afterwards Earl of Oxford, defeated DeTourville, and sunk or burned 16 French men-Of-war. Then C ape

Finis t erre (finis term), a promontory on the W . coast of Galicia in

Spain, and in N. lat. 42°

and W . long. 9°

will probably be

seen,off wh ich Anson defeated the French fleet in 1 747 . The next

land sigh ted will be, perhaps, C ape R oca,near Lisbon, and then

Cape S t . V incent in N. lat. 3 7°

W . long. at the S.W . corner

of th e Portuguese province Algarve, off which Sir G. Rodney, on the

l 6th J anuary 17 80 defeated the Spanish fleet, and Sir J . J ervis won

his earldom on the 14th of February 17 9 7,and Nelson the O rder

of th e B ath , afi er taking the S. J osef and the S. Nicho las of 1 12 guns

each . This cape has a fort upon it,and the wh ite clifl

’

s,150 feet

high , are h oneycombed by the waves, wh ich break with great violence

upon th em. From the last three capes steamers are signalled to

Lloyd’

s. J ust beforeentering the Straits ofGibraltar, C ape Trafalgar

will also probably be seen in N. lat. 36°9'

W . long. 6 immortalised

by Nelson’s victory ofthe 21st ofOctober 1805 . Gibralt ar comes next

in sigh t . The following tableofdistances 13 taken from thepocket book

publish ed by the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company.

This little book , costing only 2s , can be high ly recommended.

Apply5toMessrs. Thos. Cook it Son, either at Ludgate Circus, Charing5 Piccadilly.

xxiv GIBRALTA R India

TABLE or DISTANCES BETWEEN THE VARIOUS PORTS ACCORDING To THE ROUTES TAKEN B r

STEAMERS OF THE PENINSULAR AND ORIENTAL STEAMNAVIGATION COMPANY

London (ifvia Plymouth add 50)

Plymouth

2272 2027 Naples

Via Brindisi

Ancona

1 Calling atMadras.

G IBRALTAR .— As the steamers never stop for more than a few

hours, passeng ers rarely find time for anything beyond a walk in th e

town and lower fortifi cations. Th is is a good place to buy tobacco,as there is no duty and it is cheap. There are steamers from Gibral tartwo or three times a week to Tangier.

Gibraltar was reckoned as one of the Pillars of H ercules, the oth erbeingAbyla, now Apes

’H ill . Gibral tar was taken from the Spaniards

in 7 1 1 A .D. by Tarik ibn Zayad, from whom it was called J abal alTarik Gibraltar and it was retaken 1309 and not finally wrestedfrom theMoors till 1503 . In 1 704 it was taken by the English, andsustainedmany sieges by French and Spaniards between 1704 and 177 9 .

In the latter year commenced the memorable siege which l asted 4

years, and ended by the repulse of the combined fleets of France and

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

xxxiv mmmm sax

spot whereMoses andMiriam and the Children of Israel sang th eir

song of triumph .

THE R ED SEA — A fresh breeze from the N. generally prevails for

two-th irds of the voyage down the Red Sea, and is, during the w inter

months,succeeded by an equally strongwind from the S. for the rest of

the way. During the summer, the wind from the N. blows through

out the sea, but'

1s ligh t in the southern half, and the heat is grea t .

The Sinaitic range is the fi rst remarkable land viewed to th e E,

but Sinai itself, 3 7 geograph ical m. distant, can be seen only for fi ve

minutes, from the bridge of the steamer.

The Red Sea extends from the head of the Gulf of Suez to t h e

Strait of Bab-el-Mandeb, about 1400 miles, and its greatest width i sabout 200 miles. At RaeMohammed it is split by the peninsula of

Sinai into two parts one,the Gulf of Suez, about 150 m. long,

and from 10 to 18 wide, and th e other, the Gulf of Ak abah, abo u t

100 m. long, and from 5 to 10 wide.

W herever seen from the sea, the shores of the Red Sea present an

appearance of absolute sterility. A broad sandy plain slopes inappreci

ably to th 3 foot ofthemountains, wh ich are inmost parts a considerab ledistance inland. The ordinary mail-steamer

’s track , hpwever, lies dow n

the centre of the sea, and little more than the summits of the distan tbare and arid mountains will be seen.

The only port on the E. shore between Suez and the division of

the sea is Tor, two days’

journey from Sinai. TheKhedivieh Companyrun steamers, touch ing at one or two of the intermediate ports betweenTor and E1W edj. Opposite the end of the Sinai peninsula is J eb e l

ez-Zeit, the mountain of oil,

”close to the sea. A t this point th e

Egyptian Government have lately expended large sums in search ingfor the petroleum wh ich there is reason to believe exists. Up to th e

present, although a certain amount of oil has been found, it has no t

been proved to exist in suffi ciently large quantities to pay for th e

money sunk . If leave can be obtained from the Public W ork s De

partment, a visit to the site of the borings migh t be made. A t E l

Gimsh eh, a headland, terminating the bay to the S.S.W . of it , are

some sulphur-mines, grottoes, and inscriptions in the Sinaitic character.

About 27 m. inland are the old porphyry quarries of J ebel cd-Dokhan

,

mountain of smoke.

”The road from Gimsheh past Jebel ed

Dokhan may be followed to Keneh on the Nile. The distance is

about 140 miles.

The ruins ofMy os H ormos are on the coast in latitude 27°

The town is small, very regularly built, surrounded by a ditch,

and defended by round towers at the corners and the gateway s

Th e port mentioned by Strabo lies to the northward, and is nearl yfi lled with sand. Below the h ills, to the eastward

,18 theFons Tadmo s

,

mentioned by Pliny. Besides the ancient roads that lead fromMyo s

Introd. Kossma xxxv

Hormos to the westward is another runningN. and S., a short distance

from th e coast, leading to Aboo Durrag and Suez on one side, and to

Suakin on the S.

K oss — A t Old Kosseirare the small town and port ofPh ilo tera ,

of wh ich little remains but mounds and the vestiges of houses, some of

ancient , others of Arab date. The modern town of Kosseir stands

on a small bay or cove,45» m. to the southward. The population is

about 2000. This is a separate governorsh ip. It was formerly a place

of some importance, but is now falling into decay. The water-supplyis bad. There is a custom-house, but the trade is very limited, consist

ing principal ly of dates from Arabia.

After passing Kosseir are the several ports mentioned by Pliny,with landmarks to direct small vessels through the dangerous coral

reefs, whose abrupt discontinuance forms their mouth . These

corresponding openings are singular, and are due to the inability of

th e coral animals to live where the fresh water of the winter torrents

runs into the sea, wh ich is the case where these ports are found.

Th ere are no remains of towns at any of them,except at Nechesia,

and th e Leucos Portus the former now calledW adi eu -Nuk k ari, the

latter k nown by the name ofEsh -S h una , or“themagazine.

” Nechesia

has the ruins ofa temple, and a citadel of hewn stone but the Leucos

Portus is in a very dilapidated state and the materials of wh ich the

houses w ere built, like those of Berenice, are merely fragments of

madrepore and shapeless pieces of stone. About half way between

them is another small port, 4 m. to theW . ofwh ich are the lead -mines

of G a b e l er-R o sas ; and a short distance to the northward, in W adi

Abu -B a ikeb, is a small quarry of basinite,worked by the ancients.

About 20 m. inl a nd from the site of Nechesia are the old Neccia

quarries and emerald mines at Jebel Zobarah .

B eh ind the headland ofR ae Benas , calledRas el-Unf, orCapeNose,by t h e A rab sailors

,opposite Yembo on the Arabian coast, there is a

deep gulf, at the head ofwhich stood the old town of B erenice . This

gulf, according to Strabo, was called Sinus Immundus. The long

peninsula or chersonesus,called Lepte Extrema, projecting from th is

gol f, is mentioned by Diodorus, who says its neck was so narrow that

boats w ere sometimes carried across it from the gulf to the open sea.

From th e end of the cape may be perceived the Peak of St. J ohn, or

the Emerald Isle, Jeziret Zibirgeh , or Semergid, wh ich seems to be

the or serpentine island, of Diodorus. Th e inner bay, wh ich

constituted the ancient port of Berenice, is now nearly fi lled with sand

and at low tide itsmouth is closed by a bank , which is then left entirelyexposed. The tide rises and falls in it about one foot .

T h e town of Berenioe was founded by Ptolemy Philadelphus, and

so ca l led after h is mother. There is a temple at the end of a street,

towards t he centre of the town,built of hewn stone

,and consisting of

xxxvi SUAKIN— J IDDAH

three inner and the same number of outer chambers,with a staircase

leading to the summit, the whole ornamented with sculptures and

hieroglyphics in relief. It was dedicated to Serapis and in th e

h ieroglyphics are the names ofTiberius and Trajan.

Between Ras Benas and Ras Elba are a number of small harbours

which are much used by Arab traders to convey provisions to th e

Bishareen tribes, and to bring slaves back to Yembo and Jiddah .

Since the trade with the Soudan has been stopped in consequence of

the rebellion,a good deal of the commerce wh ich used to pass through

Suakin now goes to these small harbours,the custom duties being thus

lost to theEgyptian Government. South of Res Elba is R ae R ow a y ,

a long, low promontory. H ere is an Egyptian station dependent upon

Suakin. At Roway are some very extensive salt-fi elds, from which a

considerable amount of salt is exported annually, principally to India.

SUAKIN is th e most important town on theW . side of th e Red Sea.

It was the scene of the two English expeditions of 1884,18 8 5

,neith er

ofwh ich led to any resul t . In 1896 the 2 l st Bombay Infantry h eldSuak in for the Khedive of Egypt , and caused a division of O sman

Digna’

s forces, thus enabling the Khedive’s troops, under Sir H erbert

Kitchener, the more easily to reconquer the North Soudan. Th e prin

cipal tribes in the vicinity of Suakin are the H adendowa and Amarar.

After leaving Suez the lig h th ouses seen are Zafarana and Rae

Gharib, both on the W . coast before Tor is reached. Then follow s th e

light on Ashrafi , just inside the mouth of the Gulf of Suez,and th at

on Shadwar, just south of it. The ligh t on The Brothers is nearly due

E. ofKosseir. The Daedalus Reef, small and dangerous, lies in midchannel in latitude 25

°

,andwas a terror to navigators before the ligh t was

erected. And lastly, the ligh t on Perim Island in the Bab-el-Mandeb .

The most important ports ofArabia on the Red Sea are Y enb o, lat.

24°

N. ,the port ofMedina , 130 m. to the E. The town is sur

rounded by a wall 12 ft. h igh and is a mean place, but the harbour

is one of the best on the coast.

J IDDAH,in latitude 21§ N.

,is an important place the seaport of

Mecca, which is 60 m. E. The population, including surroundingvillages, is about English and oth er steamers call h ere

frequently. The anchorage is 3 1} m. from the shore. Th e town is

square in shape, enclosed by a wall with towers at intervals, and on th e

sea-face two forts. There is a good street parallel to the sea. Th e

oth er streets are irregular and not so clean. The town, for th is

part of the world, is well kept, but the suburbs are very poor. Th e

population is most fanatical , and Europeans landing must behave in

respects cautiously. Supplies are abundant, but it is the custom to

ask strangers exorbitant prices. There are three entrances to the tow n

on the sea side, but the central one at the jetty is the only one in

ADEN Indc’

a

stations. Steamers usually pass to the E. of the island near th e

Government boat harbour. The western side of the large inner

harbour has been assigned to the Perim Coal Company, who have ex

pended in making the place one of the most perfect cool ingand salvage stations in the East. The salvage steamers are powerful ,and always ready to render assistance to vessels in distress. Th e

C ity line of steamers coal here.

Through out theRed Sea enormous coral reefs run along the coas ts

in broken lines parallel to the shores,but not connected with th em .

They usually rise out ofdeepwater to with in a few feet of the surface.

A navigable channel from 2 to 3 m. wide extends between them and

the E. coast, and a narrower one on theW . coast. The wh ole sea is in

course ofupheaval. The former seaport ofAdulis, inAnnesley Bay, nearMassowa, is now 4 m. inland.

Th e tides are very uncertain. At Suez, where th ey aremost regul ar,they rise from 7 ft. at spring to 4 ft. at neap tides.

During the hottest month s,J uly to September, the prevalence of

northerly winds drives the water out of the Red Sea. The S .W .

monsoon is then blowing in the Indian Ocean, and the general level

of the Red Sea is from 2 to 3 ft . lower than during the cooler month s,when theN E. monsoon forces water into the Gulf ofAden and th ence

through the Strait of Bab-el-Mandeb.

A DEN was known to the Romans,and was for many years h eld

by the Turks, who captured the port from the Arabs. Marco Polo,the Venetian, visited Aden on his return from h is travels in C hina .

It was then, in the 14th cent , held by a governor appointed by th e

Soldan.

”Polo mentions the port as having been a seat of direct

trade with Ch ina in the early centuries of Islam.

” An Arab reports

it at that period as enclosed by mountains, and you can enter byone side only.

” On the 18th February 15 13 Albuquerque sailed

from India with 20 ships for the conquest of Aden. In the assault on

the fortress their scaling-ladders broke, and although they succeeded

in tak ing“a bulwark wh ich guarded the port with 39 great pieces of

cannon,”they were obliged to withdraw after a four days

’siege. O n

the 3rd of August 15 39 Soliman Basha,”the admiral-in-ch ief of a

Turk ish armada of 7 4 sh ips and gunboats, cast anchor in the port .

H is mission was against the Portuguese in India. A Venetian captive

serving as a slave on a Turk ish galley writes in his Memoirs : "I‘is

very strong, and stands by the seaside, surrounded with exceedingh igh mountains, on the top of which are little castles or forts

(evidently watch -towers, the ruins of wh ich are still to be seen on th emost inaccessible points on th e rim of the Crater).

’Tis encompassed

also with ravelins on every side, excepting a little opening, about 3 00

paces wide”

(now made into th e Main for a road into th e

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

xliv THE 133 0a or mnm— uonammanms India ‘

THE PEOPLE OF INDIA

TH E census of 189 1 gave the population of India and Burma

A i Persons per

Squarrga

Miles.

Population.

SquareMile.

229

110

ch iefly in

178 towns

Of th is total of about are British born, of

whom one half are soldiers. The army of British India comprises

British TroopsNative

In addition there are Native Reserves, Imperial Service

Tr00ps furnished by Native States, andEuropean or Eurasian

Volunteers, mak ing altogether additional men trained

by British offi cers. The Native States have semi- trained tr00ps

which are not included in this list .

There are four races in India— the aborigines, or non-Aryans th e

pure Aryans, or twice-born castes the Mohammedans and th e

Hindus,a blend of Aryans and non-Aryans, who form the bulk of

the population.

The census of 189 1 gave, in round numbers,the following religious

statistics

Brahmanic 207, 700,000 ChristianAnimist (non-Aryan) SikhMohammedan J ainBuddhist Zoroastrian

TH E MOHAMMEDANSMohammed (strictly Muhammad, the praised was born at

Mecca in 5 70 A .D. ,h is father being a poor merchant who died soon

after the birth of his son. W hen twenty-five years old he became

manager or agent to a rich widow named Khadija, who, al t h oughfi fteen years h is senior, offered h immarriage. By her he had two sons

who died young, and four daughters, of whom the best know n ifFatima. At the age of forty he received the fi rst divine communica

xlv1 MOHAMMEDAN rssrrvsns Iwho

Their year, therefore, is 1 1 days short of the solar year, and th eir

New Year’s Day is every year 1 1 days earlier than in thepreceding year.

In every 30 years the month Zi h ijjah is made to consist 1 1 times of

30 days instead of 29 , which accounts for the 9 hours in the lunar

year, which = 3 54 days, 9 hours. To bring the H ijrah year into ao

cordance with the Christian year, express the former in years and

decimals of a year, and multiply by 9 70225 , add 6215 4 , and the

total will correspond exactly to the Christian year. O r to effect the

same correspondence rough ly, deduct 3 per cent from the H ijrah year,add 6215 4 , and the result will be the period of the Christian year

when theMohammedan year begins. A ll trouble, however, of com

parison is saved by Dr. Ferdinand Wustenfeld’

e Comparative Tables,Leipzig, 18 54.

The Tarikh Ilah i, or Era of Akbar, and theFasli or Harrest Era

These eras begin from the commencement ofAkbar’s reign on Friday

the 5 th of Rabi na-sani, 963 A.H .= 19 th of February 15 5 6. To make

them correspond with the Christian, 5 93 must be added to the former.

Monsmmnsn Fns'rrvs nsBalsam? ’Id, held on th e l oth of Zi h ijjah in memory ofAbrah am’

s

offering of Ishmael, which is the version of the Koran. C amels,

cows, sheep, goats, kids, or lambs are sacrificed.

Muha rram, a fast in remembrance of the death of H asan and

Husain, the sons of’

Al i by Fatimah the daugh ter ofMohammed.

H asan was poisoned by Yezid in 49 A.H ., and H usain was murdered at

Karbala on the l oth ofMuharram, 61 A .H . 9th O ctober 68 0 A .D.

The fast begins on the l et ofMuharram and lasts 10 days. Moslemsof the Shi

’

ah persuasion assemble in the T’aziyah Khana, h ouse of

mourning. On the nigh t of the 7th an image of Burak , the animal

(veh icle) on whichMohammed ascended to heaven, is carried in proces

sion, and on the l oth a Tabut or bier. The Tabuts are thrown into

th e sea, or other water, and in the absence ofwater are buried in the

earth . The mourners move in a circle, beating their breasts with cries

of“Ai l H asan. Ai ! H usain.

” A t th is time the fanatical spirit is

at its height, and serious disturbances often take place (see H obson

J obson in Yule’s Glossary of Anglo-Indian Terms).

A kh'iri Ohahar Shambah, held on the last Wednesday ofSafar, when

Mohammed recovered a little in h is last illness and bathed for th e last

time. It is proper to write out seven blessings, wash 06 the ink and

drink it,as also to bathe and repeat prayers.

Bari Wafat, held on the 13th of Rabi ul avval in memory ofMoh ammed’

s death, 1 1 A .H .

Pir-i - Dastgir, held on the l oth of Rabi us-sani in h onour ofSaiyad

’Abdu

’

l Kadir Gilani, called Pir Piran or Saint of Saints, w ho

MOH AMMEDAN DATES

taught and died at Baghdad. During epidemics a green flag is carried

in his name.

Chiraghan-i-Zindah Shah Madar,held on the 1 7 th of Jumeda ’

l

avval in honour of a saint who lived at Makkhanpur, and who is

though t to be still alive,whence he is called Zindah

,

“living.

”

Urn -Kadir Wah'

, held on the 11th of J umada’s-sani, in honour of

Khwajah Mu’in-ud-din Ch isti,who was buried at Ajmers in 628 A .H .

Maraj -i-Muhamm d,held on the 25 th of Rajah , when the Proph et

ascended to h eaven.

Shab-i -barat,nigh t of record

,held on the l 6th of Sh

’

aban,

when th ey say men’s actions for next year are recorded. The

Koran ough t to be read all nigh t, and the next day a fast should

be observed.

Ramazan, the month -long fast of theMohammedans. The nigh t

cf th e 27 th is called Lailatu ’l-Kadr,

nigh t of power,” because the

Koran came down from heaven on that nigh t.’

Idu’l-fi tr, the festival when the fast of the Ramazan is broken.

The evening is spent in rejoicing and in exh ibitions of the Nautch girls.

Ch iragh an- i -Bandah Nawaz, held on the 16th of Zik

’adah in

honour o f a saint of the Ch isti family, who is buried at Kalberga and

is also cal led Gisu Daraz,“long ringlets.

”

Sous MOH AMMEDAN Du ns AFFECTING INDIA

Birth ofMohammedHis depart ure fromMecca toMedina. The hursh era

His dea t h

Arab invasions ofSind .

Hahmud o fGh azni defeats the Rajputs at PeshawarMahmud captures Somnath in Guzerat, and carries off the temple

gates to Gh azni

The A fgh ans ofGhor capture GhazniMohammed ofGhor cs tures Delh i

autb-ud din (original y a slave) proclaims h imself sovereign of

India a t Delh i

Altsmsh ex tends the empire of the slave dynastyAls-nd-din conquers Southern India ,

defeats several Mogul invasions from Central Asis .

Timur, or Tamerlane, sack s Delh iBabar th eMogul, sixth ‘

1n descent from Timur, defeats the AfghanSultans o fDelhi, at the battle ofPanipat

Babar defea ts the Raj iuts at Fatehpur Sikri near AgraAkbar defea ts the Afg ans at Panipa

Akbar conquers thegRajputs, annexes Bengal, Guzerat , Sind,

Cash mere, and Kandahar .

[hath ofA k bar at A

tfi?Gmmencement of e struggle between theMogul Emperor and

Am gzeb captures Sambhaji the son of theMaratha chiefSivsj1,a d puts h im to death

SO VEREIGNS WH O REIGNED AT DELHI

Death ofAurungzeh ; decline of theMogul power .

Rajputana lost to th eMo 1

Defeat and rsecution o the Sikhs, theMogul puts their leaderBands to eath with cruel tortures

Kabul severed from theMogulsNadir Shah , k ing ofPersia, sacks Delh

i

TheMarathas obtainMslws ; Oude becomes independent ofDelb1Hydersbad becomes independent .

TheMars thas obtain Southern Orisss ; and tribute from Bengal .

Invasion of the Afghan Ahmad Shah Durani, and cession of

Punjab to h imAhmad Shah Durani sacksDelh i .

TheMe1athas capture DelhiDefeat of theMarathas by the Afghans at the battle ofPanip

at

General Lake captures Delh i

h er or Sovsnmons wao axiom-n AT Damnmom 1193 To 1837 A .D .

Muhammad bin Sam, l at DynastKuth-ud din

y

Aram ShahShams-ud-din AltamshRukun-diu Feroz

Sultanah Riziah

BahramA

’

lau-din

Nasiru-dinMahmudBalban

Kaikubad

Jelalu din Feroz Shah , 2nd DynastyRuknu din Ibrahim .

Alan-dinMuhammadShahabu-din

’

UmarKuthu dinMubarakNasira din KhusruGliissu din Tugh lak 3rd DynastyMuhammad bin Tugh lak .

Feroz ShahTugh lak .

Abubakr .

Muhammad ShahSikander .

MahmudNusrat ShahMahmud restored

Daulat Khan Lodi

Kh izr Kh an Sa'

id, 4th DynastyMubarak Shah II.Muhammad Shah’

Alam Shah3 3 11161 Lodi

, 55h DynastySikandar .

Ibrah im

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

H INDU FESTIVALS

is put into a cradle and worsh ipped, and red powder called gulal is

thrown about.

Vada Savitri, held on the 1 5 th of Jeth , when women worsh ipthe Indian fig tree.

Ashadhi Ekadash/i, th e 1 1th of the month Asarh , sacred to Vishnu,

when that deity reposes for 4 months.

Nag Panel's /mi, held on the 5 th of Sawan,when the serpent Kali

is said to have been killed by Krishna. Ceremonies are performed to

avert the bite of snakes.

NamI/i Pumima, held on the 1 5 th of Sawan. The stormy season

is then considered over, and offerings of cocoa~nuts are thrown into the

sea on thewest coast .

007ml A sh ta/mi, held on the 8th of the dark half of Sawan, wh en

Krishna is said to havebeen born at Gokul. Ricemay not beeaten on th inday, but fruits and other grains. At nigh t Hindus bathe and worsh ipan image of Krishna, adorning it with the Ocymum sanctum. Th e

chief votary of the temple ofKanhoba dances in an ecstatic fashion, and

is worsh ipped and receives large presents. H e afterwards scourges the

spectators

Pitm’

Amavasya, held on the 3oth of Sawan, when H indus go

to Valkeshwar in Bombay and bathe in the tank called the Banganga,wh ich is said to have been produced by Rama, wh o pierced the

ground with an arrow and brough t up the water. Shraddas or cere

monies in honour of departed ancestors are performed on the side of

the tank .

Ganesh Clmtm'thi, held on the 4th of Bhadon, in honour of

Ganesh , a clay image of whom is worshipped and Brahmans are

entertained. Th e H indus are proh ibited from looking at th e moon

on this day, and if by accident they sh ould see it, th ey get

themselves abused by their neighbours in the hope that th is wil l

remove the curse.

Rishi Pancha 'mxi, held on the day following Ganesh Chaturth i, in

h onour of the 7 Rish is.

Gauri Vahan, held on the 7th of Bhadon, in h onour of Sh iva’s

wife, called Gauri or the Fair. Cakes in the shape ofpebbles are eaten

by women.

Wa/man Dwadashi,on the 12th of Bhadon

,in honour of

incarnation ofVishnu, who assumed the shape of a dwarf to

Ammt Clmturdashi, held on the 14th of Bhadon,in honour «

flAnanta, the endless serpent.

Pitri Paksh,held on the last day of Bhadon, in honour of

Pitras or Ancestors, when offerings of fi re and water are madethem .

Dasara, held on the l oth of Asan, in honour of Durga, wh o

lvi BUDDH IBT rnsrrvsns India

the only hope of relief lies in the suppression of desire and the ex

tinction ofexistence. A man’s object should be to become enligh tened

by meditation and introspection, so as to earn a cessation of the cycle

of lives through which he would otherwise be destined to pass, and

thus finally to reach nirvana, wh ich puts an end to all re birth . H e

should accumulate merit with the object of annih ilat ing all conscious

ness of self ; he should respect the life of all creation in order to earn

the extinction of h is own. In th is task he must depend upon h imself

alone,and not upon any spiritual aid or guidance. Al l men are

capable of attaining nirvana, without distinction of caste, and neith er

sacrifi ces nor bodily mortifi cations are of any avail. It is a pessimist

and atheist creed,to wh ich , however, excellent moral rules have been

attached. Buddhism gave some encouragement to education it

culcated universal benevolence and compassion ; and stimulated exertion

by declaring that a man’s future depended, not upon sacrifi ces and

self-torture, but upon h is own acts. It is the embodiment of the

eternal verity that as a man sows he will reap ; associated with the

personal duties of mastery over self and kindness to all men and

quickened into a popular religion by the example of a noble and

beautiful life (Sir W . W . H unter). It substituted a religion of

emotion and sympathy for one of ceremonial and dogma (H . G. Keene).It never ousted Brahmanism from India

,but the two systems existed

together from about 500 to A .D. 800,when it finally disappeared

from India (except Ceylon). Sir Monier W illiams estimates th at

there are not more than Buddh ists in the world, and

that this number is decreasing. Buddha is generally represented in

one of three attitudes he sits cross-legged, either with his hands in

contact in an attitude ofprofound meditation, or with one hand point

ing to the earth , or with both hands raised in the preaching posture.

H is ears sometimes reach to his shoulders (see Plate).The small sect of Jains are the only Buddh ists left in India (if

Ceylon be excluded). Their founder was Mahavira, a contemporaryof Gautama. The Jains consider bodily torture to be necessary to

salvation ; they do not agree with other Buddh ists in denying th e

existence of a soul, but believe that even inorganic matter has a soul,and that aman’

s soul may pass into a stone. They carry the Buddh ist’s

concern for animal life to an extreme. Their figures of Buddh a are

naked.

Bonnms'r FESTIVALS

Th e New Year Festival corresponds to theMakara-sankrant i of

the H indus (see p. liii ), but in Burma it often takes place as late as

April. A t a given moment, which is ascertained by the astrologers ofMandalay, a cannon is fired ofl'

announcing the descent of the King ofthe Naths (genii) upon earth . Then begin the Saturnalia.

lx m asr FESTIVALS— ARCH ITECTURE India

Farvardin-J asan, on the 19 th of Farvardin, on wh ich ceremonies

are performed in honour of the dead called Frohere or protectors.

There are 1 1 other Jasans in honour of various angels.

Khurdad-eal,the birthday of Zoroaster, who is said to have been

born 1200 at the city of Rai or Bhagee near Teheran.

J amshich’

Nauroz, held on the 21st ofMihr. It dates from the timeof Jamebid, and thePersia ough t to commence their New Year from it .

Zaa'tashte Disc, held on the 1 1th of Deh in remembrance of th e

death of Zartash t or Zoroaster.

Muktad, held on the last ten days of the Zoroastrian year, includingthe last five days of the last month , and the fi ve intercalary days calledthe Gatha Gaha/mbars. A clean place in the house is adorned with fruits

and flowers, and silver or brass vessels fi lled with water are placed there.

Ceremonies are performed in honour of the souls of the dead.

ARCH ITECTURE

RELIGION has so great an influence upon architecture that we maymost conveniently classify the different styles in India as Buddh ist,Brahman, andMohammedan.

Buddhist — A lthough Gautama preached 600 h is religion made

little progress before its adoption by the great Asoka, who reigned

from 272 to 236 The palaces, halls, and temples wh ich mayhave existed before the time of Asoka were made of wood

, and have

perished. There was no stone arch itecture in India before Asok a,and all the monuments known to us for five or six centuries after h is

date are Buddhist.

Every Buddhist locality was sanctified by the presence of relics,wh ich were contained in dagobas, or topes. Some topes were with out

relics, the oldest and simplest form of tope being a single pil lar

(sthambra) either regularly built, or carved out of one stone,in wh ich

case it was called a lat. Where a tope had relics, they were con

tained in a sort of box or case at the summit of the tops, called a tee.

Rails are found surrounding topes, or enclosing sacred trees, pillars,

etc. Chaityas, assembly halls or temples, correspond to the church es

of the C hristian religion. Viharas are monasteries.The best known tapes are those at Bh ilsa, Sarnath , and Buddh

Gaye. There are also a number of them scattered over the ancient

province ofGandara, the capital ofwh ich was Peshawar— especially at

Manikyala. In Ceylon there are topes or dagobas at Anuradhapura

and Pollonarua. The late, or pillars, stood in front of, or beside, each

gateway of every tops, and in front of each chaitya hall. A soka was

the great builder of pillars. Two of his are still in existence at

Delh i,and a more complete specimen at A llahabad. The iron pil lar

In the mosque at old Delh i is not Buddhist, but seems to be

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

lxii aaoarrncruan India

even imagined in Goth ic art . On the other hand they are necessarilysmall, and require large stones, while a dome on the radiating

principle can be built of small bricks. The J ains built their templesin groups, or cities, of temples, as at Palitana, Parasnath , Girner,Mount Abu, Muk tagiri, Kh ajurahu, and Gyraspore. Their love

of the picturesque led them to build their cities sometimes on

h ill-tops, as atMount A bu, sometimes in deep and secluded valleys, as

atMuk tagiri. The two towers of Fame and Victory at Chittore are

examples of J ain work , called sikras. Of modern J ain architecture

the most notable specimens are at Sonagarh and Muk tagiri ; th etemple of H athi Sing (A .D. 1848) at Ahmedabad and the temple at

Delh i, about 100 years old.

Brahman architecture is divided by Fergusson into the three styles

of Dravidian, Chaluk yan, and Indo Aryan. The Dravidian or

Madras arch itecture is best seen at Tanjore, Trivalur, Sri Rangam,

Chidambaram, Rameswaram,Madura, Tinnevelly, Conjeveram, Coim

batore, and Vljayanagar. There is noth ing in Europe th at can be

compared with these Dravidian temples for grandeur and solemnity,and for parallels to them we must go back to ancient Egypt and

Assyria (Sir G. Birdwood). The temple itself, wh ich is called the

Vimana, is always square in plan, surmounted by a pyramidal roof of

one ormore stories ; a porch orMantapa covers the door leading to

the cell in which the image of the god is placed the gate pyramids

or Gopuras are the principal features in the quadrangular enclosures

which,with numerous other buildings, surround the Vimanas. Th e

chief Dravidian rock -cut temples, which , unlike the Buddhist caves,

are excavated externally as well as internally, are atMahabalipur and

Ellora. The palaces exh ibit Mohammedan influence, having th e

Moorish pointed arch . They are to be found at Madura,Tanjore,

and Vijayanagar.

The Chalukyan style was at its best in the province ofMysoreduring the three centuries A .D. 1000 to 1300, when the B

'

ellalas

ruled there. Th ey erected groups of temples at Somnathpur, Belur,and Hul labid. O ther Chalukyan examples are at Warangal and

H ammoncondah . This style is remarkable for elegance of outline and

elaboration of detail . The artistic combination of horizontal with

vertical lines, and the play of outline and of ligh t and shade, especiallyin the H ullabid example, far surpass anything in Goth ic art. Th e

animal friezes begin, as is usual in India, with elephants on the bottomline then lions, then h orses, then oxen, above which are pigeons.

Examples of the Indo-Aryan, or Northern style, are at Bhuvanesh

war, Khajurahu, the black pagoda at Konarak , the temple of Jagannathat Puri, the Garuda pillar at J ajpur, the Teli-Ka-Mandir at Gwalior,the temple of Vriji at C hitor

,the golden temple of Bishweshwar at

Benares,th e red temple at Bindraban

,and the modern temple erected

Introd. ARCH ITECTURE lxiii

bySindhia’s mother at Gwalior. There are three rock-cut temples of

this style at B adami, and the Dumar Lena at Ellora.

Of Brahman civil arch itecture the best specimens are the tombsofSangram S ing and Amara Sing at Qodeypore, and of Bakhtawar

Sing at A lw ar. The latter shows the foliated arch wh ich is so

common in Mogul buildings ; and it also shows the Bengali curved

cornices, wh ose origin was the bending of bamboos used as a support

forthe thatch or tiles. The finest Brahman palaces are at Oodeypore,Datin, Orch h a ,

Amber, Dig, and theMan Sing Palace at Gwalior.

The beauty of H indu architecture is greatly enhanced by the use of

picturesque sites, either on hills, in valleys, or where the aesthetic

value of w a ter may be utilised. A t Rajsamundre, in Oodeypore, for

example, th e bund or dam of the artifi cial lake is covered with steps,vhich are brok en by pavilions and k iosks, interspersed with fountains

and statues , th e whole forming a fairy scene of arch itectural beauty.

The ch ief styles ofMohammedan arch itecture are the Pathan and

theMogul . Th e Pathans found in the colonnaded courts of the

Jain templ es nearly all that was required for a ready-made mosque.

They had to remove the temple in its centre, and erect a new wall

on the w es t side, adorned with niches— mihrabs— pointing towards

Mecca ; and th ey added a screen of arches with rich and elaborate

carvings. Th e best examples are at Delhi and Ajmere. Of the screen

at the K u tub mosque, Delhi, Fergusson says that the carving is,

without exception, the most exquisite specimen of its class known to

exist anyw h ere. H e says of the Miner that both in design and

finish it far surpasses any building of its class in the whole world

and considers that Giotto’s Campanile at Florence

,beautiful though

it is, wants that poetry ofdesign and exquisite finish of detail which

marks every moulding of the miner.

” During the Pathan period

all minaret s were not attached to the mosques.

W e h ave no examples of theMogul style in the reigns of Bebar

or Humayun. Akbar was, in architecture as in religion, extremelytolerant, and his buildings exh ibit marked H indu features. The

chief of th em still in existence are the tomb of h is father H umayun

near Del h i, the town of Fatehpur-Sikri

,the fort at Al lahabad

,the

palace a t Lah ore, the tomb he began for h imself at Sikandarah, andthe red palace in the fort at Agra, which by some authorities

,in

Spite of its H indu features, is ascribed to Jehangir. The tomb of

Anar K ali at Lahore was built by J ehangir, in whose reign the tombJf l t imad-ud-daulah at Agra was built . Shah J ehan

,during whose

reign th e Mogul power was at its highest, was the greatest of allindian builders. There is a great contrast between the manly vigourand exuberant originality of Akbar, and the extreme, almost efl

'

eminate,

l egance of h is grandma . Shah J ehan built the palace at Delh i,the fort and palace at Agra, and the famous Taj Mahal, perhaps

lxvi ears India

is of Dutch origin. The embossed silver work of Madras, withDravidian figures in high relief, is called Swami were.

Domestic utensils in brass and copper are made all over India, the

H indus using the brass and theMohammedans the copper. The bran

is cleaned by scrubbing with sand or earth and water ; the copper

periodically receives a lining of tin. The 00p bazaar of Bombayis celebrated, and so is the brass were ofMoradabad. Benares is

famous for east and sculptured mythological images and emblems.Kansha plates are made at Burdwan andMidnapore. O ther places

noted for brass and copper were are Nagpore, Ahmedabad, Nassick,Poona, Murshedabad, and Tanjore. The Cashmere and Peshawar

ware has marked Persian features.

The artisans of India were formerly very skilful in the use of iron

and steel.

Old Delhi,

eyes to an

capable of forging a bar of iron larger than any that have been forged

even in Europe up to a very late date, and not frequently even now

It is almost equally startling to fi nd that, after an exposure for fourteer

centuries, it is unrusted,and the capital and inscription are as else]

and as sharp as when the pillar was first erected.

” Sir George

Birdwood 1 says : The blades of Damascus,which maintained thei:

pro-eminence even after the blades of Toledo became celebrated

,wen

in fact of Indian steel .” Indian arms are characterised by th ei

superb, and sometimes excessive, ornamentation. But the modemwork in iron, steel, and arms is not ofmuch importance.

Damascening is the art of encmsting one metal upon anothet

Thebest or true damascening is done by cutting the metal deep, amfi lling it with a th ick wire of gold or silver. The more commo

process is to heat the metal to a blue colour,scratch the design upo

it, conduct a gold. or silver wire along the pattern, and then sink

carefully with a copper tool. The art comes from Damascus, h emits name. Damascening in gold is carried on ch iefly in Cashmer

Gujrat, and Sialkot, and is cal led koft -work . In silver it is cal ld

bidri, from Bidar,in the Nizam

’

s dominions. A cheap imitat ion l

koft-work is made with gold leaf.Enamel is an artifi cial vitreous mass

, ground fine,mixed w it

gum water, applied with a brush,and fixed by fusion. In t ]

champlevé enamelling of Jeypore— the best in India, perhaps in ti

world— the colours are placed in depressions hollowed out of timetal, and are made to adhere by fire. The Jeypore artist is renownfor ; the~

purity and brilliance ofh is colours,and the cv

Wh ich they are applied. He is particularly famous for a fi ery nWh ich is un

‘

ique.

~ For enamel on gold besides Jeypore—r-Alwar

, D e l

lxviii s aws India

Sk ilful carving is done at Bombay in blackwood,for doors or

furniture, in a style derived from the Dutch . A t Ahmedabad the

blackwood is carved into vases, inkstands, and other small objectaJ ackwood also is carved in rectangular forms at Bombay. Sandal»

wood is s erved at Bombay, Surat, Ahmedabad, Canara,Mysore, andTravancore ebony at Bijnur (Rohilkund) ivory at Amritsar, Benares,and Vizagapatam. Silbet is noted for its ivory fans, Rutlam for its

ivory bracelets, and Vizagapatam for boxes of ivory and stage born.The beautiful carved ivory combs, wh ich used to be found in everybazaar, are not now so common. Figures ofanimals, and of th e gods,

are carved in white marble at Ajmere, Jeypore, and Rajputam

generally. Excellent building stone is found in Rajputana, where itis carved for arch itectural purposes. A t Fatehpur

-Sikri (Agra) modelsof the ruins are carved in soapstone. Models in clay of

figures are admirably made at Lucknow,Poona, and

In the cities of Guzerat, and wherever the houses are made of wood,

their fronts are elaborately carved.

India was the first of all countries that perfected weaving, sewingnot being practised until after the Mohammedan invasion. The

Greek name for cotton fabrics, sindon, is etymologically the same as

India or Sind. The word ch intz is from the H indu chhint,or

variegated, while calico is from the place ofits production, Calicut. In

delicacy of texture, in purity and fastness of colour,in grace ofdesign,

Indian cottons may still hold their own against the world— but not in

cheapness. The Decca muslin, once so famous,one pound weigh t oi

which could bemade to cover 250miles, is now superseded by the ch eapmach ine-made goods of Europe and America ; and European ch intz

now takes the place of the palampore, a k ind of bed-cover of printed

cotton, for wh ichMasulipatam used to be celebrated. In the Punjalthe weaver

’s trade still flourishes, but large quantities of th c

cheaper cottons are now made in India by .

mach inery. Pure sill

fabrics,striped, checked

,and figured are made at Lahore, Agra

Benares,H yderabad (Deccan), and Tanjore. Gold and silver brocade!

silk s,

called k incobs, are made at Benares, Murshedabad, and

Ahmedabad. The printed silk s which are worn by the Pars

women of Bombay are a speciality of Surat. Bhawulpore is noted for

its damasked silks. Most of the raw silk comes from China. T h i

Mohammedans are forbidden by their religion to wear pure silk , bu'

may wear it mixed with cotton. Gold and silver wire, thread lace

and foil are made all over the country, for trimming shoes and caps

for stampingmuslins and ch intzes,for embroidery and brocades. W it]

such sk ill is the silver wire prepared that two sh illings worth of silvecan be drawn out to 800 yards. The best embroidery, remarkable forts subdued elegance and harmonious combination of brill iant colour:comes from Cashmere, Lah ore, and Delh i. The patterns and colom

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

lxxii TH EMUTINY Indus

largesocial and.material reforms, and are also particularly remarkable

for British annexations of native territory. After a severe struggle

with the warlike Sikhs the Punjab was conquered and annexed in

1849 . Lower Burma followed in 18 52, and Oudh, without conquest,in 18 5 6. By a new doctrine, the territory of a native prince who died

without an heir of the body, was treated as lapsed to the British , an

adopted heir not being recognised. Under th is rule we became

possessed of the principalities of Sattarah , Jhansi, Nagpore, and oth ers.

It was also decided that the stipends wh ich had been paid to those native

princes who had been deprived of their territories in former years,.

should not be continued to their successors. Among others of less.

importance, the Nana Sah ib, the heir of the Peishwa of Poona,th e

nominal h ead of theMarathas, was refused the pension of

per annum wh ich the Peishwa had enjoyed during his life. Th e

descendant of theMoguls, Bahadur Shah , was informed that his son

would not be allowed to live at Delh i,or to retain the regal t itle.

And when the territory of the loyal king of Oudh was annexed,

owing to his persistent misgovernment, the surplus revenues of the

State, after payment of a substantial pension to the king, were

gathered into the coffers of the British Government . A ll th is looked

like a policy of unjust and high-handed aggression. The na tives

understand annexation after conquest, and the conquered provinces

of Punjab and Lower Burma remained loyal throughout the

Mutiny. But now every native prince feared for h is dominion, as

the British seemed determined to absorb all their territory, either

by conquest, or on the plea of misgovernment, or by the new rule

excluding adopted heirs ; and th is policy of greed seemed to be

further evidenced by the resumption of pensions, and the confisca tion

of the surplus revenue of Oudh . Of the chiefs directly affected the

Mogul and the k ing of Oudh were Mohammedans,a race wh ich

considers itself as th e natural ruler of India and likely to profi t by th e

ejection of the British the Rance ofJhansi and the Nana Sah ib were

Maratha H indus, and the Marathas had practically conquered the

Mohammedans when the British intervened. The leaders of the two

most warlike and aggressive races in India, and of the two religions,complained of harsh treatment at the hands of the British . Th eydetermined, if possible, to rouse the sepoys, a portion of whom were

already in an insubordinate condition.

In 18 5 6 one of the first innovations of the new Governor-General,Lord Canning, was the General Service Enlistment Act, by which all

future recruits in Bengal were made liable for service outside the

Company’s dominions without extra pay“ This

“

had always been t he

rule with th e sepoys of theMadras and Bombay armies. But theBengal sepoy was a man of h igh caste, and entitled to privileges.

H e was now threatened with the loss of his caste by being tak en

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

LIGHTHOUSES~ CHURCHES

and Back Bay sterling havebeen expended.

TheDockyard of the P. O . Com

any is in the suburb ofMazagon.

e offi ce is situated in theMazagonDockRoad, inagardenwith a profusionof flowering shrubs. The works werefinished in 1866. Thedockyard covers12 acres, and there are iron sheds for

tons of coal. The dock is 420ft. long, and capable of receivingwa rds of deep draugh t. On its left ,looking towards the pier, is the Icel lasufactory.

Lronrnonsns.

The Kennery Lighthouse, wh ich is12m. to the S. of Bomba has a

find first-class cata-dio tric'

gh t in a

tower 161 ft. above h ig-water mark .

It cost about 2 lakhs. There are 2

32-pounders on the islandforsi alling.

The foundation-stone was lai by SirBat tleFrere in 1867, and the ligh t wasfirst sh own the following year.A ridge or causeway, which commences a little S. of the Colaba Cemetery, and is 3500 ft . long, leads to theNew or Prong Ligh thouse, from theOld h th ouse, extinguished 1874.

ii go is dry at low water

lays before and 4 days after full moon.

Nea r the Old Ligh th ouse and at ColabaPoint are twomodern batteries, andN.

«fit are th e lines oftheartillery and theleadquarters wing of a European regiment . The Pron Lighth ouse is 1501. high , with wal s 17 ft. thick at thesweat story, and cost TheEvolving gearhas to bewoundupevery5 minutes, wh ich employs 2men. Interms th ewaves rise 50ft . 11 thesides,nd the tower vibrates. efora th isigh thouse was built dreadful shipvrecha took lace here, and many ofhe bodies of osedrownedare interredinColaba Ceruetery. It is interestingto watch the l

'

h t from the shore of

lack Ba as it

‘

fiashes into full s lenieur an then in a few seconds adesate darkness. The ligh t can be seen5 th e distance of 18 m., and beyondi s h

’

gh th ouse the shoal water extendsh a mile. It flashes every 10seconds .

Another ligh thouse takes the place1 1210 old Inner Ligh t vessel.

Cannon s.

The Cathedral ofSt . Thomas standsin the Fort, close to Elph instone Circle.

It was built as a garrison church in

1718, and made a cathedral on the

establishment of the See of Bombayin 1833, on wh ich occasion th e low

be]fry was converted into a high tower.

It is simple in(plan, and a mixture of

the classical an Goth ic in style. The

chancel, added 1865, is a satisfactory

s cimen of modern Early English .

here are somemonuments here whichdeserve attention,— one by Bacon to

J onathan Duncan, Governor for sixteen

years. It represents h imreceiving the

leasings ofyoung H indus. Th is had

reference to his successful efforts in

suppressing infanticide in certain dis

tricts near Benares, and afterwards in

Kattywar, throu h the zealous and

able agency of00 one] W alker.

Amongst other monuments to be

noticed are that to Cap.G.N. H ardinge,R N. , who died in 1808, in a brilliant

engagement when he took the frigate

La Piedmont iare that to Col . Burr,who commandedat thebattleofKirkeeanda th ird toMajorPottinger, wh o distinguished h imself in the defence of

H irat. The fountain in front of the

Cathedral was erected by Sir CowasjeeJeh angir Readymoney, at a cost of

7000 rs .

TheAfghanMemorial Church of St .J ohn the Evangelist at Colaba , conse

crated in 1858, consists of nave and

aisles 138 ft . long, with a chancel 50 ft .

long, and a towerand spire 198 ft . high ,conspicuous forsomedistanceat sea. As

in the great church ofAntioch in earlya es

, and in St. Peter’

s at Rome, thea tar is at theW . end. The effect on

entering is good, owlu to the length

and hei

ght of thebuil

°

ng, the sim li

city of t e architecture, and the imreligious ligh t diffused through the

stained-glass windows. The roof is

of teak . The first object remarked on

enteringis theilluminatedmetal screen,ligh t and elegantly designed, and sur

mounted byagilt cross. 8 . ofthemainentrance 18 the Baptistery, with a

large font and triplet window erected

by the congregation in memory of the

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

Ind ia12 BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS

person, and purify themselves and cast

away their garments after every visit

to a tower. Fire is toomuch veneratedby Parsis for them to allow it to be

polluted by burning the dead. W ater

is almost squall respected, and so is

earth ; hence t is smgular mode of

interment has been devised. Th ereis, h owever, another reason. Zartash t

said that rich and poor must meetin death ; and th is saying has beenliterally interpreted and carried out

by the contrivance of the well, wh ich

is a common receptacle for the dustof all Parsis, of Sir Jamsh idiji andother millionaires and of the poorinmates of th e Parsi Asylum. Inthe arrangements of th e vast area

wh ich surrounds the Towers nothinghas been omitted wh ich could fostercalm and pleasingmeditation. You at

once arrive at the h ouse of rayer, andaround is a beautiful en full offlowers and flowering s rubs. H ereunder the shade of fine trees relativesof th e deceased can sit and meditate.

Theheigh t oftheh ill and theproximityof the sea ensure always a cool breezeand the view to the W . and S. over

the waters, and to the E. and N. over

the city, the islands in the harbourand the distant mountains beyond, isenchantin Th e massive gra towers

and the t ick woods about t cm are

very picturesque. Even the cypresses,as the Parsis themselves say, taperinupwards, point thewa to heaven an

it is certain that the arsis follow out

that though t and are fi rm believers inthe resurrection and the re-assemblageof the atoms, here dispersed, in a

glorified and incorruptible body.

EDUC ATIONAL INSTITUTIONS.

Elphinstone College, removed fromBycul la in 1890, now occu ies a largebuilding close to theMec anics

’In

stitute, fromwh ich it is separated bya

narrow street. This building is cal edafter Sir Cowasjee Jchan

gir Ready

money, in recognition of is havinggiven a cou

ple of lakh s for the pur

pose of burl ing the original institution. Th e Elph instone Institutionwas founded as a memorial to theH on. Mountstuart Elph instone, the

Governor of Bombay. In 1856 it was

divided into a H i h School (see below )and this College or the higher educa

tion of natives, who contributed upwards of2 lak hs to endowprofessorsh ips

In English , and theArts, Sciences , and

LiteratureofEurope. Thesumaccumu

lated to about 4 lakhs and a half, a nd

Government augments the interest byan annual subscription of rs.

There are 16 senior scholarsh ips, and

29 junior are competed for annual ly.

A certain number of undergradua t es

who cannot pay the College fee are a d

mitted free. In 1862 Sir A lexand er

Grant, Bart . , was Principal of th e Co l

lege, and some distin ished sch ola rs

h ave fi lled Professors ips, as, for in

stance, Mirza H airat, who translated

Malcolm’sH istoryofPersia intoPersian .

The building is in the mediaaval style,and contains lecture-rooms, library (inwhich is a portrait of El h instone b

yLawrence), a room for t e Principa

with one for the Professors, and dormitories above for the resident students .

TheW . wing is the Record Oflice.

The New Elphinstone H igh School

is in Esplanade Cross Road, in front of

the W . face of St . Xavier’

s College.

Sir A lbert Sassoon contributed £ 1500

towards the cost of the building. It

is the great public sch ool of Bombay,and retained possession of the original

buildings on the Esplanade when th e

College Department was separated to

form the Elph instone College.

The object of th is sch ool is to furnish a high

-class and liberal education

up to the standard of the Universityentrance examination,

at fees with in

the reach of themiddle-class peo ls of

Bombay and the Mufassil . t h as

classes for the study of En lish ,Marathi, Guzerati, Sanscrit , tin, andPersian.

”

There are 28 class -rooms,

a hall on the fi rst floor measuring62 x 35 ft . , and a Library. The building was designed by G. T.Molecey.

St . Xavier’

s College, near the W .

end of the Esplanade Road. Th isJ esuit institution

,which serves the

purpose of school as well as colle e,

grw out of the development of St.ary

’

s Institution and the EuropeanR. C . Orphanage. The site for the

16

Circle, facing theTown H all, are statuesofLord Cornwallis, under a cupola, andof Lord Wel lesley, by Bacon, muchinjured by the effects of the weather.

On the edge of theMaidan and closeto the Pubh c W orks

’

Secretariat are

statues of Sir Richard Temple andLord Reay.

TheMuseum, on the Parell Road, ahandsome building, stands about 100

yds. back from the road. Until 1857the collection, wh ich is not an important one, was kept in theFort Barrack s,but onSirG. Birdwood being a pointedcurator by Lord Elphinstone, e raised

a subscription of a lakh for buildingthis Museum. Sir B . Frere laid the

first stone in 1862, and Governmentcompleted the building in 1871. The

Cloc Tower in front of it was erected

by Sir Albert Sassoon. There is a finestatue of Prince Albert here b Noble.

The Victoria Gardens , in w ich the

Museum stands, h ave an area of 34acres, and are prettil laid out. The

beautiful Bongnin as is very con

s icuous. W ith in the grounds are a

on erie and Deer Park . Th e band

plays ere twice aweek , and it is agreatresort for the citizens. Themunicipality keep up the gardens at a cost of

rs. yearly.

Manners.

Thebest timeforvisiting th eMarketsis early in themorning, about 7 o

’clock ,

when they are thronged with all sorts

and conditions of men and women i..the brigh test and most picturesquecostames.

The Crawford Market stands inMarket Road, wh ich is approached fromH ornby Row , and is about Ii m. N. of

W atson’s H otel. This market was

founded byMr. Arthur Crawford, O.S . ,Municipal Commissioner from 1865

to 1871. (Th is able offi cer got the

Slaugh ter H ouses, wh ich at the commencement of h is term of offi ce werenear the market , removed to Bandorain Salsette. ) The market consists of aCentral H all, in which is a drink ingfountaingivenby SirCowasjeeJchangirRoadymoney, surmounted by a ClockTower. 128 ft . high . To the righ t is8 W ing, 150 ft. by 100 ft. , in wh ich are

BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS

grapes

India

fruit and flowers, and on the left isanother wing, 350 ft. by 100 ft . , forspices and vegetables. The whole is

covered with a double iron roof. The

ground is paved with flag

-stones fromaithness.

“In that collection of

handsome and spacious halls fish,flesh , vegetables, flowers, frui ad

general commodities are vended in

89 rate buildings all kept in admirab e orderand cleanliness, and all opuing upon green and shad garden

”

(Edwin Arnold). The stal s in wh idl

the leaves of the Piper betel areshould be noticed. These leaves are

calledpan, and the betel-nut is called

supare’

. The leaves are spread with

lime, and the fruit of the Areca palmis wra ped in them. These leaves are

chewe by the natives, and make theli and the saliva red and the teeth

b ack . There aremany kinds of lantains orbananas, but the best are 8 ort,

th ick , and yellow. The best oranges

are those from Nagpur, and the bestare fromAurangabad. Th eblack

grape, called H abshi (theAbyssinian),isthemost delicious, and the best white

grapeis theSah ibi. Themangoes comem inMay, and are amongst th e finestfruit in the world : two or three iced

form a delicious adjunct for breakfast.The best are grown about Mazagon ;the k ind most esteemed is called the

Alphonse large numbers ofan iaferior uality come from Goa. The

Pumme ow, the C itrus decumana, is

part icularly fine in Bombay, very cool

mg and wholesome, but somewhatas tringent . The Bombay onions are

famous . The B eefMarket is built ofiron. The eving

-stones were brought

from York s°

re. The Fish Market isat the end of theMuttonMarket. The

turtles come from Karach i in Sind.

Th e oysters are of moderate size and

well flavoured. The Pa lla fi sh , gener

ally about 2 ft . long, the salmon of

India, is excellent . Its flesh is light

coloured, and has many troublesomebones. The best fi sh ofall is thepomflat , or pomfret , called Sa ndals

“

,the

black k ind being called H alwa. This

is a flat fish , about the size ofa lsrge

flounder. Th ebest are caught at Vera

wal ; they are very cheap and whole

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS

In the Bhendi Bazaar are the Arab

Stables, well worth a visit in the earlymorning, not only for the sake ofseeingsome of the finest horses in the East ,but to see the Arabs themselves wh obring them to Bombay for sale.

Forthemost part theHinduTemplesin Bombay are quite modern ; but atthe same t ime they are picturesque and

particul arly striking to a stranger who

as not been in Bombay before. Of

these themost important isThe tem ls of Wal keshwar Sand

Lord,

”on t eW . side ofMalabar H ill,

close toMalabar Point . Throngs of

H indus will be met coming from it,their foreheads newly coloured with

the sectarial mark . Th e legend says

that Rama, on h is way from Ayodhya

(Oudh ) to Lanka (Ceylon), to recover

his bride Sita, carried off by Ravana,halted here for the nigh t. Lakshmanrovided his brother Rama with a new

ingam direct from Benares everynigh t . Th is ui h t he failed to arrive

at the expects time, and the imatient Rama made for himself a

ingam of the sand at the spot. Whenthe one from Benares arrived it was

set up in the temple, while the one

which Rama h ad made, in after ages

on the arrival of thePortuguese, spranginto the sea from horror of the bar

barians. There is a small but ve

picturesque tank here, adorned wit

igh ts of steps, and surrounded byBrahmans

'

h ouses and shrines. Th is

spot well deserves a visit ; a traveller

will nowhere in India seeamoreapical

specimen of the better class of 1ndu

town architecture. It, too, is not with

out its legend. Rama th irsted, and

there being no water here, he shot an

arrow into the earth , and forthwith

appeared the tank , hence called

tirtha , Arrow-Tank .

”

A Temple of less importance is theDwarkanath

’

s Temple, close to the

Esplanade, on the ri h t-hand side of

theroad that leads to arell, anda littleN. of th e Framji Kausji Institute,wh ich is on the Opposite side' of theroad.

Entering b a side door on the Nthe vmtor

.

ads0

h imself in a room

7 ft . h igh , wh ich hides from view the

principal idol. There aremanyand paintings of Krishna andh is favouritemistress .

There is a group ofMahalukslmee

Temples at Breach Candy, and ot hers

in thenative quarter around the tanks

ofMombadevi and Gowalia .

Sh ooting.— Tigers and anthers are

rather numerous in th e onk an, and

may be found occasionally in Sal sette.

At the hill -fort of Tungarh ,about

20m. from Bombay, tigers are occas ionally to be found, but it is difi cult to get

accommodation there, as th ere are o nlyone or two huts, and horses ick eted

outside are likely to be kills duringthe nigh t . Newcomers sh ould eu

deavour to

go with some experienced

sportsman, y whom all the arrange

ments should be made. Snipe are

numerous on the E. side of BombayH arbour in Penwell Creek and other

places. A t theVeber Lake and Tanna

and close to Narel wild duck , snipe,h ares, and partridges are to be found.

A t places in Guzerat some ofth e finest

uarl, snipe, and duck -shooting in

ndia is to be obtained.

— The terminal stations of the tramways and of the Bombay, Baroda, andCentral India Railwa are at Colaba ,

Am. S. of W atson’

s otel , but there

is a stationmuch closer, andnearly dueW . ofW atson

’

s H otel, called Church

gateStation,whencepassengers canstart

for any places reached by the B . B . and

C . I. line. Thosewh o are livingin the

northern suburbs will go of course

from the B ycul la Station, or from the

Grant Road Station, according to their

destination.

Srenrs in run Vrcmrrx or Bounar.

l . Elephants. 6. JogeahwarCave.

2. VeharLake. 7. Math emn.

3. Montpezir Caves. 8.

4. Cave Temples of

Kanbari.5 . Sapara.

(1) Eleph ants is sm all island6

.m.

‘

from the Fort of Bombay.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

BAPARA— J OGESH WAR CAVE

lbove these again is anoth er series ofriham, ofwhich several are very intersting, theirwallsbeingentirely coveredn

’

th figures, finely executed. Theera] design is Buddha seated on a

Remains ofplasterandpaintingas seenhereand there. Mr. Fergus on

marks on the peculiar head-dress of

the principal figure in some of the

groups, which he had not noticed elsethere, and observes also that thisfigureis attendedby two female fi res ,

shame the true Buddha is waysattendedbymen. This is Padmapsnior lvalokiteshwar, one of the Bodhisates of later Buddh ism, attended b

to aras. On the B . side of the h'

n I broad, long, and level terrace,comanding a very fine view of thesurroundin country.

1

The folfowing passage from Dr.

Bird’

s book refers to a discovery of

great importancemade by him“The tops at Kanhari , which was

Openedbymein 1839 , appeared to havebeen originally 12 or 16 ft . in heigh t ,and of a pyramidal shape ; but beingsuch dilapidated, formed exteriorly a

heapofstones andrubbish . The largest

issveral being selected for examinahon, was penetrated from above to thehas

, which was built of cut stone.

herdigging to a level with thegroundedclearing away the loose materials,fieworkmen came to a circular stone,illow in th e centre and covered at

is top by a piece of gypsum. Thismisined two small cop er urns, inis of which were a ru y, a pearl ,li small piece of gold mixed withi ts. In this urn there was also a

tall gold box containing a piece of5th

, and in the other, ashes and a

fiver box were found. Outside theinalar stone th ere were two copper

tee, on wh ich were legible inscripin the Lat or cave character.

hesmaller of the plates had two linesiwriting in a character similar to thatttwith at th e entrance of the Ajantat en; th e larger one was inscribedlib let ters of an earlier date. The

Who inseri tions at Kanhari have been“slated by Buh ler in Dr. J ames Burselaborate work already referred to on

Temple: and Buddhist Caves.

last part of the first-mentioned inscrip

tion contained the Buddh ist creed, as

found on the base of the Buddha imagefrom Tirhut , and on the stone taken

from thetops ofSarna th , nearBenares.

”

Themost curious fact ofall connectedwith Kanhari is the existence there inancient times of a tooth of Buddh a.

The save over wh ich inscription 7of those mentioned by Stevenson is

engraved, is called Sakadatya-lena

, the

Buddha-tooth Cave,”

probably because the relic was th ere temporarilydeposited, wh ile the to in which itwas finally lodged was sing prepared

(see p.

(5 ) Bupara is a villageW . oftheB . B .

and C . I. Railway 3m. N.W . ofB assein

Road station on that line. A Buddh isttops at th is lacs was opened wh ich

yielded some igh ly interesting relics ,now to be seen in the great room of

the As iatic Society in th e Town H all ,Bombay. The subject is worthy of th estudy ofOrientalists and the continuedresearch of travellers.

(6) J og'

eshwar Cave.— 6 m. S. of

Magathana Caves, and 2m. N.E. ofthevillage of Jogeshwar (about 1 mGoregaon sta. on the B . B . and C . I.

line). Mr. Burgess attributes thesecaves to the latter half of the 8thcent . ; next to those at Elora theyare the largest in India, being 320 ft .long by 200 ft . broad. The W . en

trance is that now used ; but thedecorations on the E. side are morecarefully executed, and the rineipel entrance was robably there.

Over the sloping pat that leads tothe W . entrance a natural arch isformed by the branches of a banyantree, W t h

,sh ooting across, have

taken root on th e other side, andrender the a preach singularly pictures us. Eig t steps lead down toa sma anteroom

, in which the figuresare greatly decayed. A door leads intothe Great Cave

,and above this are two

figures in the attitude in which Ramaand Sits areoften represented. The tallfigures on each side of the entrance aresxactlylikethedwarapalsat Elephants .

The Great Cave is 120 ft . 8 uare, and

18 ft . from thedeer are 20pi] ars of thesame order as at Elephants , forming

26 BOMBAY AND nnvmons India

an inner square. W ithin there is a which have been called the Great Fall ,chamber 24 ft . sq. W ith 4 doors. Th is the Roarer

, the Rocket , and the Dome

is a temple sacr toMahadeva. On Blanche. In the first of these thethe walls are the vestiges of many water, in considerable volume, makesfigures. Over the doorat the E. em a sh eer leap down of 829 ft . , andtranceis thecurious designofamonstsr, falls into a l 132 ft. deep.

”The

others are a in line with th is , acrosstheriver

,which is ofgreat width . The

scenery up the valley and the ghat tothe Falls is an erb, but read is varymalarious until so. or Jan.

, by whichtime theFalls haverun out a great d

three doorways, wh ich again open into Provisions should be taken. Th is is athe Great Cave. Over thedoorways are long and somewhat toilsome journey ;some curious designs, as, e.g. over the for full particulars see Rte.

centre one a

figure resemblin Buddha

,

and on one si s a guardian caning ona dwarf, who gras in h is hands twoenormous snakes t at areclosely twinedround his body.

(7 ) H ath sran.—54 m. from Bombay

by G. I. P. Rly. (see Rte.

(8)Eh

;11Tansa

A

Water

G. to tgaon sta. , 59 m. )The increasing pop

ulation of BombayROUTE 1

led the mumcipa°

ty to construct a

still larger reservoir on the Tansa

River, about so m. N.E. of BombaBOMB“ TO CALCUT“ 3’ NA B“,

CAVES or A J ANTA JABALPURwh ich was formally o sued by H .

theViceroy, LordLans owns, inMarch ALLAH ABAD’ AND BENAB’ES'

1892 The Dam which encloses the Rail , 1400m. (e. I. r. B. and E. i. B ) : maiiwatershed of the Tansa River, com train 46 h ours.

pleted 1891, is the largest piece of

masonry of modern times. It is of a

uniform heigh t of 118 ft . , and is 2 m.

long, 108 ft . thick at the base, and 24

ft . at the to where a flagged read

along it . t encloses a lake 8 m.

in area, and is ca able of supp ying

gallons aily (Engineer,Mr.

W . C lerks ; Contractors, Mr. T. C .

Glover, and Messrs. W alsh, Lovatt ,

and Co. )(9) Kant — 85 m. from Bombay ;

caves 6m. from rly. sta. (see Rte.

(10) Gersoppa t ans — FromBombay by steamer to Karwar. FromKarwar to H onawar by

“manehul ,

”52m. , 15 rs. H onawar to Ger

soppa , 18 m. , by native beat up a

sh a low river to Rule Gersoppa to theFalls, 18 m. , b manehul , 4-8 rs.

W rits beforehan to theMamlatdar atKarwar formanehul , and to theMamlatdar at H onawar to make arran e 1

merits.“There are in all 4 fa mo

sh"

, 3? George Smith s W e at

The rule for breakin journeIndian railways allows t e trave er to

spend 16 days on the journe fromBombay to Calcutta with one t rough

'

ticket . Cost , l st class 91 rs. 11 as ,2nd

class 45 rs. 14as. and servants 16 rs.Luggage beyond a small allowance isextra. The 85 m. between Bombay andIget uri areb

yuf

l

'

ar themost ictursq ue

on t e whole s between t e western

and eastern capitals . but unfortunatelythe mail train each way asses over

the best part of this in the ark . Th e

traveller can arrange to see it by dayligh t , on the eastward journey

, by pre .

coding th e mail. H e shoul leave b

the midday train and reach Igatpma,

in the evening, rejoining themail trainat that place at nigh t , and on t h qwestward journey he should wait a t

Igatpuri for a slow train.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

ROUTE 1.

rivers, the View alon the banks when

hundreds ofmen an women are bath

ing is extremely icturesque. The

part of the town w ich stands on the

rt. bank of the river is built upon 3

bills, and is divided into theNew Town

N. and the Old Town 8 . The quarter

on the 1. bank, where are the ch ief

objects of inurest , is called Panchwati.Themanufacture of brass and copperware, especially ofidols, caskets, boxes,chains, lamps , etc. , flourishes here.

Specimens of the beautiful old work ,than h rare

,are still occasionally to be

foundin the old cop r bazaar.

The temples at; Nasi though pictmosque, h aveno striking arch itecturalfutures.

m. to the W . , on the Panchwati

doof the river, is a solidly-built h ouse

belonging to the Rastia family. Here

flight and walk a few hundred yardsup a lane to fi ve very old and large

trees of theFicus indica species. Under

theshade of the largest is a smal l building. None but H indus may pass thevestibule. It consists of a low room,

at the S. end ofwh ich is an arch 3 ft .

high , and beyond steps descend to

2 apartments 5 ft . sq. and 4 ft. h igh .

In the first room are images ofRama,Sits

,and Lak shman. In th e second

is an image ofMahadeo, 6 in. h igh ,which those th ree personages are said

to have worsh ipped ; hence arises theextreme sanctity of the place, which is

finite one of the holiest inNasik . This

ole is Sita'

s Ouph s , or Cave, whereshe found an asylum until lured awayi) Ravana to Ceylon. Farther downt a river, and just before reach ingthe riverside, is the oldest temple inthe place, Kapaleshwar, God of theSkull,

”

a name of Sh iva. Th e ascent

to it is by 50 stone steps. It is saidto be 600 years old, but is quite plainand unattractive. Opposite to it th eriver foams and rushes in a rocky bed.

Rama’

s Kund is the place where the

god is said to have bathed ; hence itIs very sacred, and bones of the deadare taken there to be washed away.

Opposite to it and in the river itself is"tone dh armsala, with several arches,bofed over, in wh ich ascetics lod s

t hen th e water is low. Down t e

NASIK 29

stream, about 20 yds. , are threetempleserected by Ahalya Bai. The first is

only a few feet h igh and long, but the

next is a large square building, with a

stone foundation and brick superstruc

ture, dedicated to Rama ; N. of it is

a long dharmsala, and a little down

the stream is the th ird tem le, all of

stone. About 200 ft. down t e streamis Nara Shankar

’s temple, with an

elaborately carved rtico and a large

stone enclosure. T is ends the templesimmediately on th ewater on thePanchwati side. Proceed then i m. by a

back way through streets of well-built

houses to the great temple dedicated toKala Rama, or Black Rama,

”

wh ich

cost It stands in an oblongstone enclosure, with 96 arches. To

the W . is a hill called Sunar’Ali,

and there is another h ill close by,called J unagadh , or Old Fort , on

which is a square buildin in wh ich

Aurangzib’

s ch ief oflicia a used to

reside. They command fine views overthe city. The Hingne Wada, an old

palace of the Pesh wa (chief of the

Mahrattas), at present used as a school,is worth a visit for its beautiful carved

wood-work .

The travellershould not leaveNasikwith out visiting Sh aranpore, seat ofthe mission founded by the ChurchMissionary Society in 1835 , in the

Junawadi part ofNasik , and moved toSharan orebyMr. W . S. Price in 1855.

Since t e establishment of theGovernment H igh School at Nasik in 1872

the missionary school has fallen off.

There was connected with th is missionan African Asylum for youth s rescued

fromslavery, and it was from here thatLivingstone

’

s Nasi}: boys were drawn.

It closed in 1875, andMr. Price took

the boys to theE. coast ofAfrica, where

a colony is established for redeemedslaves. There is a well-built but arch i

tecturally disappointing church .

In a h ill 45 m. S. of Nasik are the

Lena Caves. A narrow path ascends

to the heigh t of about 450 ft. to a

broad black line in the N. face of thehill,which extends about im. in length ,and marks the excavations. In the

centre, just opposite the s t where

the path ends,is a Cave 37 t. x 29 ft . ,

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

ROUTE 1 . BOMB AY ro CALOU'I'I‘A

Number 21. The paintin are

almost obliterated, except on t e lefthand as you enter, wh ere there is a

large black Buddha with red hair,attended by black slaves, also a numberoffemales, fair as Europeans .

'

umbers 22 and 23 areunim rtant .

Number 24 is unfinished ; ut the

details, where com lated, are so rich as

to leave no doubt t at th is would have

been one of the finest caves had the

design been fully carriedout. Only one

pillar has been completely scul turod.

Number 25 is a small rude ara.

Number 26 is a vaulted chaitya cave,and perhaps the most modern of the

series. It resembles Number 19, butis much larger. Its sculptures

more numerous and minute than anyother. The Buddha in front of the

dagoba is seated, with his feet down.

The walls are covered with scul tures

of Buddha and disciples . In t e S.

aisle is a figure 23 ft . 3 in. long, reclin

ing all its length , in wh ich attitude

Buddh ists prepare to receivem’

rodrza h ,beatitude.

”

Above aremany angels,one of them sounding vigorously a bigdrum. The fat figures which serve as

brackets have four arms. There are

two inscriptions on the outs ide, one

under a figure ofBuddha on the left of

the entrance ; the othermuch broken,but more distinct , on the righ t, in thecharacter of the 6th century A .D .

Number 27 is small and unfinished. ]

353 m. Khandwa junc. m . ,

276 m. Bhusawal junc. sta. (a ) A (R ),

A qivil statipn. the ch ief place

place called into existence by the the district of Nimar ln th e C ent

works. J unction of the

Bengal Nagpur Railway. (See p.

278} m. The Tapti Bridge, one of

the most important works on the line.

The first bridge built was abandoned

in consequence of th e inferior nature

of th e stone of which it was con

structed.

310m. Burhanpur sta.D.E. Thecity18 about 8 m. distant . Po have an agency at H arda.

It h as been a place of muc import 464 m. Itarsi junc. sta.

ance, and is completelywalledneighbourhood contains some intues tingMohammedan ruins, and a curiousaqueduct still in use. In the townaretwo handsomemosques. The B add est:Killer— theruins ofa citadel and pnh ce— is beautiful] situated on a h h toverlooking t e Tapti river. a

place was founded in 1400 A .D . byaser Khan of the Faruki dynasty o i

Kh andesh , a nd was annexed to th e

Mogul Empire by Akbar in 1600 A.D .

It was the capital of the Deccan Province of the empirewhen in 1614 A.D .

Sir Th omas Roe, ambassador fromJ ames I. to the t Mogul, panedthrough , and pai h is respects t o theViceroy Prince Parvis, son ofJcSir Thomas com lains that the Princemade himself k out of a case oi

bottles I gave h im, and so th e visitended. The place was tak en byGeneral W ellesley in 1803, and

°

ver

back to Sindia the next year. t it

now British territory.

322m. Ghandni sta. About 6 m. bya fair road is Asirgarh , an interestingandpicturesquehill

-fort, a detachrock standing up 850 ft . from th erounding lam. It Was taken by stornby Genera Wellesley

’

s army in 1803restored to Sindia, and in taken i]1819 , sincewhen it has be onged to t h tBritish . The country around is will

and abounds in large game.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

36 some 1.

the river rises 30 ft., and is then a

migh ty torrent , and very dangerous

About 1 m. u n the l. is an in

scri tion in the iii} ; character, madeby hu Rao Peshwa. 2m. l . are

curious rocks called H ath i ka Pauw,

elephant’

s le froma fanciedresemblance. Th e eigh t of the rocks no

where exceeds 90 ft. , and though the

scenery is picturesque, it is not grand.

l‘here is a cascade i m. beyond thebarrier rocks called the Dhuandharor SmokeFall . ” 80yds. beyond thebungalow is a fligh t of 107 stone steps,some of them carved, wh ich lead totheMadanpur Tem le

,surrounded by

a circular stone enc osure. All round

it are fi res of Parvati, with one legin her p. Thou h much mutilated,they are quitewort a visit . ]

673 m. Kath i junc. sta. Line S.E.

to the coal-fields at Uma ria. 37 m. , andthence to Bilas ur on the Bengal

-NagpurRly. (p. 76

'

A lineW . to Saugar.

734 m. Satna. (or Satna) sta D.E.

(R. A townandBritish cantonment inthe Rewah state, also the headquartersof the Baghelkhand Political Agency.

The Umballa road branches from thisint eastwardmeetingtheGreatDewariliO

/oad which runs from Jabalpur toMirzapur. Rewah is situated on this road8m.from thejunction. Thereis nothingwhatever to see at Sutna. Near Satnawere found the remains of the Bharhutstupa removed to CalcuttaMuseum.

783 m. Manikpur junc. sta . Fromthis place the Indianmidland linerunsW . to J hansi

,181 m. (Rte. 5A ).

842m. Nainl sta. (R . ) H otel. Closeby is the J ail , one of the largest inIndia

, and admirably managed. 2 m.

farther the line crosses the Jumna by a

fine bridge, and enters

844 m. Allahabad sta. a» Thecapital of the North -West Provinces,316 ft . above sea-level (pois a

lfood place to ma e a halt .“

gave ers coming from Bombay or

BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA Iedit

it cold at Allahabad and farther north

Allahabad is situated on the l . ban]

of the J umna river, on the wedge 0

land formed b its junction with thGan s

,crosse by 2 bridges of boat

on t e N. side of the town.

TheFort stands near the junct ioncthe Gauges and the J umna. Th e Civ

'

Station, Cantonments, and City s tretcW . from th is point 6 m. Th e presen

Fort and City were founded by A kbein 1575 A . but the Aryan

ztpossesse

a ver

fiancient city here call Pram

The indus now call it Prag. I t is

very sacred place with them, as the

believe that Brahma performed hsacrifices of the h orse here, in memo:

of h is recoverin the four Vedas fi '

oi

Shankhasur. he town was visitsbyMegasthenes in th e 3d cent . B A

and in the 7th cent. A .D . B iomTh sang, the Buddhist pilgrim,

visitranddescribed it. It was fi rs t conquert

b theMoslems in 1194 A .D . , undl

S ahabu-din-Ghori. At th e endAkbar

’

s reign Prince Salim,afterwan

theEmperorJehangir, overned it anlived in the fort . ehangir

’

s 801

Khusru, rebelled against h im, but w

defeated and ut under the custodyh is brother hurram, afterwards t iEmperor Shah Jehan. Khusru di e

in 1615 , and the Khusru B agh (sbelow) contains his mausoleum.

1736 Allahabad was taken by t

Marathas , who held it till 1750, whit was sacked by thePathans ofFarm:habad. It changed masters seve l

times, and in November 1801 it v

ceded to the British .

Allahabadwas the seat ofthegovajment of the N.W . Provinces fn1834 to 1855, when that was removed

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

noun 1 . nou n— annas 47

t ro°

ectin faces, each 21 ft. 6{ again l fi fga In each is

i small niche, intsu ed a pat ently to

entain a seated figure of uddh a, and

blowthem, encirclin themonument ,ia

‘

bandofsculptur ornament of thel ost exquisite beauty. The central

prt consists of geometric patterns of

seat intricacy, but combined with

angular skill ; and above and below

log

e equally well designed, and so

n resembling that carved by H induunit s on th e earliest Mohammedanmosques at Ajmere and Delh i, as to

mah us feel sure th at they cannot bere distant in date.

In his excavations, General Cunnilgham found, buried in the solid

ml onry, at the depth of 10} ft . fromtls summit , a large stone, on which

n engraved the usual Buddhist for

mula : ‘Ye dh armma hetm’

eto., incharacter-s belonging to the 7th century.

”

Dr.Fergussonwrites that heis inclinedto adopt th e tradition

preserved by

Captain W ilford, to the e ect that theSeweth monument was erected b theions ofMohi Pals , and destro e (interrupwd) by the Mohamm ans in1017 A .D . before its completion. Theform of th e monument, the characterof its sculptured ornaments, the nu

finished condition in wh ich it is left,and indeed thewhole circumstances ofthe case,

”

he continues, render th isdate so much the most probable, that Itel inclined to adopt it almost withoutintation .

Barnath was visited by the ChineseBuddhist pilgrims, Fa-Hian in 399 A .D.,

md Hiouen Thsang in 629 -645 A .D.

The former as 3 :“At 10 li (2 m. ) to

tie N.W . of nares is the tem ls,ituated in the Deer Park of the meortal . H iouenThaeng states that totoN.E. of Benares was a stupa, builtJyAsok a, 100 ft. h igh , and opposite to

ft a stone column of blue colour,righ t as a mirror. He says th e

ponastery oftheDeerPark was dividedIto eigh t parts, and was surrounded

h a wall , within which were balush des, tw o-storied palaces , and a Vi

983 m. Buxar sta. (R. D.E. , Hotel.

1032m. Arrah sta , D.E. Thespecialhrs, 200 ft. h igh , surmounted by an interest that attaches to this spot is inh -molo or mango in embossed gold. connection with an incident of the“There were 100 rows of niches round Mutiny. After some preliminary

the stupa of brick, each h olding a

statue of Buddha in embossed gold.

To the S.W . of the vihara was a stone

stupa raised by Asoka, having in fronta column 70 ft. h igh , on the s t whereBuddha delivered h is first iscourse.

W . of the monaste was a tank inwhich Buddha bathe to theW . ofthatanother where he washed h is monk

’

s

water t, and to th e N. a th ird wherehe was ed his garments. Close to thetanks was a stupa, then another, and

then in the midst of a forest a th ird.

To the S.W . of themonastery at 5 am.

was a stu 300 ft. h igh , res lendentwith jewe and surmoun by an

arrow. The Dhamek Stupa, the one

now existing, stands on rising ground,and has to theW . a J ain temple surrounded by an enclosure. About 40ft. from the E. end there is a torso of

Buddha, with theBrahmanical Thread.

There are also a few carved stones. To

theW . are acres of mounds and exes

vations, showingthat therewere exten~

sive buildings in that direction. A t370 it . to theW . by S. of theDhamekStupa, is a roundwell 50ft. in diameter,which the ide calls the Rani

’

s bath .

It is 15 ft . eep, and a torso ofBuddha

lies in it.A little to theN. of thewell is J agat

Sing’

s Stupa, so called by Cunningham, because Babu J agat Sing, Diwan

of Chait Sin excavated it to get

bricks to buildJagatganj. The other

tower stands on a ve steep moundabout 100 ft. high . he building is

octagonal, and h as an Arabic inscription on the N. side, and a well down

the centre.

Theobjects of interest in the Cantonment are theMint , where theEuropeansand other Christians assembled whenthe Mutiny broke out in 1857, the

yellow bzmgalow, where W arren H as t

ings lived, and the sun-dia l heerected.

There is a large jail , and the necessaryoffices ofa large civil station.]

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

52 cancer-m cm!

CALCU’I'I‘A C ITY 1:

CONTENTS.

Arsenal

Asiatic SocietyBelvedere (Lt . Governor

'

s Palace)t Op

’

0 CollegeBrahma Somad.

Calcutta UniversityCathedralsSt . Paul

’

3

Roman Cath olicChurch es

O ldMissionSt. Andrew

’

s or Scotch KirkSt. J ohn

'

s (O ld Cathedral .

St. Thomas’s Roman Ca olic

Clubs (see Index and Directory). Palaces—King ofOudh’

s .

CustomH ouse 54 Lt. -Governor’s (Belvedere) .

Dalhousie Institute . 67 Post OfficeEngineering (Civil) College 62 Public B uildingsEsplanade, orMaidan 64 Race-courseForts SecretariatWilliam 57O ld Fort 68 Telegra h once

Garden Reach 60 Town

TheApproach from the Sea, H oogh ly cc of the riv

Riser, and Landing-

place at Ca lcutta .

— At Pilot’

s Ridge du the S.W .

monsoon, that is from t e 15th of

March till the 15th ofSeptember, thereis a floating Ligh t vessel, wh ich is a

ide to vessels mak ingisthe H oogh ly

ilot Station. point the

traveller enters its waters. The Cal

cutta Pilots are better aid, better

educated, and occupy a big er position

than others of their profession. The

H ooghly is amost dangerous and difficult river to navigate. Th ere 18 in thefirst place the dread ofcyclones, which casion serves.

may take place in any month except

February, when they are unknown.

The worst month s areMay and O cto

ber. In some of these cyclones a stormwave has covered the adjacent sh ores,and many thousands of

J

persons haverish ed. The cyclone of 1874 coveredaugar Island with Water. But in

addition to the possible danger of

th e normal one ofsh oals and tides. New shoals are continually forming, and nothing but a the island, facing the surf,

GardensBotanicalEden

Government H ouse .

H igh CourtH ospitals .

H otels (see Index and Directory). iLegislative Council On‘ice

Mardan orEs lsh adonMint .

MissionsMosque ofPrince GhulamMuhaMuseums—Economical

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

THE APPROACH TO OAIoOUTTA

W. of th e junction of Pagoda Creekwith the bay. An offering is made tothe sea of cocoa-nuts, fruits, or flowers,and especially of five gems— a pearl,diamond, an emerald, a topaz, and a

Piece of coral worth a ru or two.

ormerly children used to cast into

the sea,

After bathing, the pilgrims

go tothe s t where the Pholu emblemofKapila uni is set 11Sport is abundant. eer, wild boar,

and a great variet

yof sea -birds are

ioundthrough out t e year.

“li

fts are to be met with in the

j Th e best way to get about ism 1 beat , sportsmen landing whentheysodesire for sh ooting, and return

ingat nigh t. In this way good sportmaybe had but without revious ex

periencetoomuch must not expected.

TheLigh thouse, of iron, 76 ft . h igh ,was commenced in 1808. It is at

Middleton Point , at the S.W . end of

the island, 570 yds. from low water

mark.The mouth of the H ooghly is about00m. from Calcutta .

At 40m.

'l‘ is the town ofKalpi, D .B . ,

At 28m.

'l' is theRupnarayanch flows into the H oogh ly

of the

H iouen Arrival at it:

Ofit as Every vessel th at arrives at Calcuttaur. It must beberthed by theH arbour

-mastereither in the new Docks or at th e

jetties. For landin from the stream at

one of the Ghats t e fee is 2 annas for

each person, and 4 annas for luggage.

of Dar Bhama or Bhenna. It wasorigin y a Buddhist temple. Theshrine is surrounded by a currous triplewall. Thefoundation oftheplace consists of large logs covered wrth brick sand stones to a heigh t of80ft. coveringthe whole area.

The Damodar river enters the

H ooghly District from Burdwan, and

flows past the villages ofAm ta E. and

Baghnan W . to Mah ishrak a Ghat ,where it is crossed by the UlubariaMidh a ur Canal, and flows into th e

H oog y opposite Fulta. It is navi

gable as far as Ampta, which is 25 m.

cm its month , by boats offrom 10 to

20 tons. By this river.largequantitiesof coal are brough t from theRaniganjmines.

Pulta is a large just op'

te

themouth oftheDamo ar. It is t esite

of a Dutch factory, and is the place to

wh ich the English ships sailed on the

capture ofCalcutta by Sirajudaulah .

At 16 m. S.

'i' Ulubaria, a small townon th e l. of the H oogh ly, is passed.

H ere themain road from Calcutta to

th e templeofJagannath at Puri crossesthe H oogh ly, and here begins theMidnapurH igh

-Level Canal. A fewm. N.

ofthis on thert. are the extensive Akra

brick -fields belonging to Government .

At 7 m 1" the first view of the cityis obtained, and then Garden Beach

is passed rt. the Botanical Gardens

and Bishop’

s (now Civil Engineering)Coll on the l . The river is now

crow ed with shi at anch or, manyrows deep, al l t

.e way up to the

Landin -place. Tue view is very strik

ing, andth e forest ofmasts, the plam

of the Esplanade, the Fort and the

fine buildings in the background, all

give the idea of a great commercial

capital .

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

68

4 is a small vihara. Buddha is seated

on a Simghasan in the teach ingattitude.

All round on the wall are smallerBuddhas. The sanctuary is 8 ft . 4 in.

ROUTE 2.

square. The Vajrapani has a da

goba in his crest, and two fi res of

uddha. The Nagas , known y their

snake-heads, stand at th e sides of the

two attendants. A good example of

the dagoba crest or Tee is in the

corridor to yourrigh t as you enter, after

passing the first division, about the

middle in point of heigh t. CaveNo. 5

is h igher up in the face of the cliff, and

is not worth the trouble of a visit .

These caves are, as is generally the ease,in the centre of a semicircular ridge, asat Ellora. At the distance of300 yds.

from the foot of the h ill on thedescentis reached a beautiful cluster of trees,of wh ich the principal are two immense specimens of the Indian fig tree.

Therearemanyotherplacesofinterestto be seen in th e h ills around. The

journey to Daulatabad fromAura/regabad, 9 m. , can be done in one hour and

a half in a tonga with two horses.

3 m. from Aurangabad is t e village ofMitmitha .

It will be necessary to arrange beforehand for a relay of h orses at Daulatabad to get on to Roza (the tomb), 7 mthe same da Near Daulatabad a

ghat or steep is passed, wh ich triesthe horses verymuch , and sometimes itisnecessary to h ave coolies,or labourers,to assist them. Permission must beobtained from the British station staff

otfi cer to see the fort ofDaulatabad.

Daulatabad (Deogz‘

ri) a 13th cent .

fortress, 8 m. from Aurangabad, is

built on a huge isolated conical rock of

granite about 500 ft . h igh , with a per

pendicular scarpoffrom 80 to 120 ft. allround the base. At the base is a strag

glin patch of h ouses and huts, which

18 a that remains of the native town.

It is defended by a loop-holed wall

with bastions wh ich on theE. sidejoinsthe scarp of the fort . At the bottomof the scarp is a ditch , before reachingwhich four lines ofwall , including th eoutside wall of the town, must bepassed. The fosse can be crossedonly in one place by a stone causeway,so narrow that only twomen can obtain

BOMBAY TO AURANGABAD India

a footing on it abreast, and commandedon the side near the fort by a battle

mented outwork . Th e only means ofascendin the rock is through a narrow

assage own in the solid stone, and

Feeding to a largevault in the interior.

From this a ramp or cry, graduallysIOping upwards, an also excavated

in the solid rock , winds round in the

interior. The first part of the ascent

is eas

twar

gs

theend it is dimenlt.

The ei t o t e passage averages

from 1051 12 ft., with an equal breadth,but it is so dark that torches are requisite. The entrance is ou the E. side,

past 2gates armedwith veryformidables ikes of iron to resist elephants ; att e th irdgate there are 3 Hmdu pillarsand 3 pilas ters on either side. Facingthis th ird ate is a bastion 56 ft . h igh.

It has a baficony orgallery with H inducurved supports, and is called the

Nakar Khana, or music gallery . It

has a small window on wh ich are

carved in alto-relievo two leopards like

those in the re al sh ield of England.

The fourth are way faces to th e E

and beyond it on the h t is an old

H indu temple, with a roken lamptower 13 ft . hi h . On the left of the

road is a sma cha ttri, or pavilion,

wh ich is thedar h of thePir-i-Kadus.

Passing along t e side of a tank , and

turning to the l . , there is an entrance

to a mosque wh ich was fi rst a J aiu

tem le and then a place of worsh ipof ali. Prayers are said here in

Ramazan, and at the Bakri’

Id, oth erwise it is not used. On the rt . of

the central dome, looking W . , in a

niche,is a stone covered with a San

scrit inscription, wh itewashed over and

placed on its side. Going out of th e

temple to the N. is a minaret saidto have been erected by theMoh ammedane in commemoration of th eirfirst captureof theplace. It was buil tin 1435, according to a Persian inserition in one of the chambers in t e

foundation. From the window abovethe third gallery an admirable view isobtained. The fifth gateway leads toa platform,

which goes partl roundthe h il l

, and has on the rt. a nildingcalled the Ch ine?Maha l , in wh ichH asan Shah , last king ofGolk onds.

Room 2. ROZA on xnuroasm

was iniprisoned for thirteen years.

Ascend here to a bastion, on wh ich isacannon indented in two places bycannon balls. It is called Kil

’

ah Shiksn, leveller of forts, and is 21 ft. 10in. long, and themuzzle has a diameterof8 in. It was made byMuhammadHasan the Arab. The really diffi cultand in former times impregnable partofthe fortress is now entered. Crossing a narrow modern stone bridge, constructed to replace themovableplank s,that formerly were the only means ofentering, th e ditch that surrounds thecitadel 18 now passed. To the l . of th ebridge and overlooking the moat are

the extensive ruins of a H indu palacewith remains of some excellent carvingin wood and stone. Continuing to

ascend by a fligh t of steps and rockcut passages at the place where the

tufa and limestone strata join,and

eventual ly emerging from a tunnel, wereach a platform,

and look out over a

garden with immense nests of h ornetshanging from th ebranches ofthe trees.

P on we come to an opening00“over with an iron shutter 20ft. long and 1 in. thick , made in ribs

(part of it is gone), which in case

of siege was heated red hot , so thatifassailants could have penetrated so

far, they would have encountered a fi ery

roof uite unapproachable. To provideventilation for the fi re a large hole hasbeen tunnelled through the rock closeby. Passing a gateway, and the shrineof the Fakir Sukh Sul tan, we cometeaBarah dari, orpavilion,

from whichthere is a fine view. It is believed tohave been the residence of the H induPrinces ofDeogiri, and was a favourite

m iner resort of the Emperor ShahH an and his son Auran

'

b. The

[l vilion h as a wide veran ah , with a

gipice of from 100 to 200 ft. in

t, and a view to Aurangabad on

theE. and to Roza on theN. In theM on of Aurangabad is the small“ted h ill of Chaman Tekri, uponi llich are the ruins of H indu templesof great antiquity. 100 steps more(nu t be climbed to reach the Citadel

itself, on a platform 160 ft . x 120 ft .

At th e W . corner is a one-gun battery,60 ft. x 30 ft. The gun is 19 ft. 6 in

long, with a bore of 7 in. On one

bastion is a large gun, on wh ich is a

Guzerati inscription, saying that the

funds for its constructionwereprovided

by certain Banias, and also a Persianinscription, namingthegun

“CreatorofStorms.

” 'I‘

avermer says that thegunon theh i hest platformwas raised to its

placeun er thedirections ofaEuroartilleryman in the service of the rest

Mogul, who hadbeen repeatedly refusedleave to return to his native land, butwas promised it if he could mountthegun on this spot . Stimulated by the

promise, h e at last succeeded.

In the year 1293’

Alau -din, after

wards Emperor of Delh i, took the cityof Deo

'

ri (Daulatabad). The citadel

still he d out . H e raised the siege on

receivin an almost incredible ransom,

bs. of pure gold, 175 lbs. of

earls,50 lbs. ofdiamonds, and

bs. ofsilver. In 1338 A .D.MuhammadSh ah Tughlak attem ted to establish

his ca ital in the eccan,removed

the in abitants of Delhi to DeOgiri,strengthened the fortifi cations, and

changed thename to Daulatabad. H is

plans, however, were final ly hamed.

The road (7 m. ) to Roza and the

caves ofEllora is up the stee h ill called

Pipal Ghat . It was pave by one of

Aura ib’s courtiers, as recorded on

two p'

lars about half-way up the h ill ,where there are fine views.

Roza (orproperly Baum) or Khuldabad, at: a walled town, 2000 ft. abovethe sea (2218 inbah .) It is 2m. fromthe caves ofEllora and 14 m. N.W . of

Aurangabad. Tongas or ligh t carts can

be taken up or down the ghats. An

annual Fair is held here on 7th Feb. ,

at wh ich th ousands ofpeople assemble.

Roza possesses a pleasant and tem

perate chmate, and is largely used as a

sanitarium during thesummermonths.It is the Kerbela (a holy shrine) of

the DeccanMussulmans, and is cele

brated as the burial place of manydistinguishedMohammedans, amongstwhom are the Emperor Aurangzib and

his second son, Azim Shah Asaf Jah ,the founder of theHyderabaddynasty ;Nasir J ung, his second son MalikAmbar, thepowerfulministerofthe lastoftheNizamShahikings ; Thanah Shah ,

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

h ours: 3 .

ments of architectural art in India.

“It is not a mere interior chamber cutin th e rock ,

”

continuesMr. Fergusson,“but is a model of a complete templesuch as migh t havebeen erected on thein . In other words, the rock hasn cut away external] as well as

internally.

”

This temp e is said to

have been excavated about the 8th cent.by Raja Elu ofEllichpur— but the styleand other evidence int to its havmgbeen constructed in t e reign of Dentidurga, the Bash trakuta king, 730

-755A. D . DedicatedtoShiva it is surroundedwith figures also ofMishnu and thewh olePuranic pantheon. The interior,and parts at least, of the exterior havebeen painted. Unlike any of the prewdin

g1cave-tem les, Kailas is a great

mono'

thic temp e, isolated from sur

rounding rock ,andprofusely carved outside as well as in. It stands in a greatcourt ave

'

ng 154 ft. wide by 276 ft .long at the evel ofthebase, entirely cutout of the solid rock , and with a scarp107 ft . h igh at the back. In front ofthis court a curtain has been left, carvedontheoutsidewith themonstrous formsofSh iva andVishnuandtheircongeners,andwith rooms inside it . It is piercedin the centre by an entrance passagewith rooms on each side. Passin mm,

the visitor is met by a large se ture

ofLakshmi over the lotuses,wit her

attendant elephants. As we enter, torigh t and left is the front portion ofthe court, which is a few feet lowerthan the rest, and at theN. and S. endsofwh ich stand two ntic elephants,

7 that on theS.mu mutilated. Tummgagain to the E. and ascending a fewsteps, we enter the great hall of thetem ls. In front of it, and connectedbya rid is amandapamfortheNandiBull, aufi n each sideofth ismandapam

{fi nds a illar, 45 ft . h igh . On theN.

lids of t e court is a series ofexcavahons in two tiers with finely sculptured

i llars. Anothermagnificent Brahmanical cave temple is that ofDumar Lena,Ensuring 150 ft . each way. One ofthefinest Hindu excavations existing.

From here a footpath leads to

(1 m.) the fine series of J ain caves, the

J acannath, and Indra Bahhas, at theK . end.

BH USAWAL 73

ROUTE 3

a sawar. via Nas pua ro Cancuru

(G. I.P. and Bengal-Nagpur Rlys.)

333 m. J alamb junc. sta.

[Branch 8 m. S. to Khamgaon sta. ,

By this line a new route fromBombay to Calcutta (1278m. or about125 m. shorter than any other) iso ened up. It is not probable thatt is linewill bemuch used for through

passenger traffi c, because it takes twohours longer than the route via Jubbulpore ; but it taps an immenseterritory oftheCentral Provinceswhichhas hitherto been inaccessible to ex

ternal trade, andprovides an outlet forth e

ngreat wheat and seed-

producingdis at ofM isgurh , the granaryof India.

”The scenery inparts of the

line, notably at Dare Kassa, B ongarogarh , and Saranda ,

is very fine.The route from Bombay to

276 m. Bhusawal junc. (R. ) is described in Rte. 1.

Soon after leavin Bhusawal the

traveller enters th e rovince of Berar

op. which continues

a most all the we to Nagpur. It

belongs to H .H . t e Nizam,but was

assigned to the British b a treaty, in

1853, for the support of t e Hyderabad

Contin ent force. This treaty was

remede ed in December 1860, bywhich , for the Nizam

’

s services in the

Mutiny of 1857 , his debt of 50 lakh s

was cancelled, thedistricts ofDharaseo

and the Raichur Doab were restored,and the confi scated territory of Shola

pur was ceded to him.

The traveller cannot fail to be struck

with the fertility of this Province,which is one of the richest and mostextensive cotton-fields in India. The

soil is black loam overlyi basalt .

The rainfall is regular and a undant ,and at harvest-time the whole surfaceis one immense waving sheet of crops.

The districts into wh ich Berar is

divided are Akola, Amraoti, Elichpur,Buldana

,W un, and Basim.

74 ROUTE 3 .

where there is an important cottonmart ]

340m. Sheagaon sta. D.B .

363 m. Ak ola sta. is the headuarters station of the W est Beraristrict ofthat name.

[A road from Akola runs 8 . 72 m. to

the important townandmilitary stationof H ingoli. About 30m. from Akolais the town ofMakar, and 15 m. S . of

Mekar is a celebrated soda lake calledLonar, formedin thecraterofanextinctvolcano. The salt is used forwashinand dyeing purposes, and is exportein considerable quantities. The area

of the Akola district is 2659 sq. m. ,

pop.

413 m. Badnera junc. sta. D. B .

[Br. 6 m. N. to Amraoti sta.

D.B . Both places have cotton-marts,and there are cotton-gins and ware

houses. Amraoti is the headquartersof the district of that name, and h asthe usual public offi ces attached to a

civil station. ]

472 m. Wardha junc. sta. D. B .

The ch ief town of the most westerlydistrict of the Central Provinces. Th e

place is uitemodern, dating only from1866, an is a considerable cotton-mart .

H ere is aMedicalMission of the FreeC hurch ofScot land

,with fine hospital

and leper asylum.

[Branch S. to theWarora coal-fields.

21 m. Hinganghat sta. , D.B . , a veryimportant old cotton-market .

45 m. Warora terminus sta a

town in the Chanda district of the

Central Provinces, and a considerable

cot ton-mart . Close to W arora are

mines offairl good coal 3000 tons a

month haveKeen supplied to the railway, the yearly out-turn has beenabout tons.

30 m. S.E. of Warora is Chanda,D.B . ,

O

reach ed by a good road. Th is

place 18 th e h eadquarters of the Chandaistrict . Too far off themain lines of h ills of Gondwana.

”

communication to be visited by hurried were conquered by

BHUSAWAL CALCUT’I‘A India

travellers , it is yet a most attractive

spot. The town is surrounded by a

continuous wall of cut stone 5} m. in

circuit. Inside the walls are detached

villages and cultivated fields. Th e

foliage is beautiful and there are ex

tensive forest -preserves near. The

tombs of the Gond kin and the

temples ofAchaleswar,Ma a Kali, andMurlidhar, are all worth a visit. At

La lpa'

, in the town, a large space is

covered with monolith figures ofgigantic size which appear to have been pre

pared for some great temple never

erected. Cunningham, in reviewingthe travels ofHiouen Thaeng in Southern India in the 7th century, cen

siders that Chanda has a strong c laimto be considered the ca

'

tal of the

kingdom of Maha-Kosa a. Here a

travellerwould see the Gonds, a peo lsdiffering from the surroundin popu a

tion in religion, language, an race ]

520 m. Nagpur, at: is the capital

ofthe Central Provinces, wh ich have anarea of 8 m. (pop.

The district of agpur itself h as an

area of 3786 sq. m. Among th e iahabitants are n wards of of

aboriginescalle Gonds andofthesethehill-tribes h ave black skins, flat noses,and thick lips. A cloth round thewaistis their ch ief cut. The reli

'

ous

belief varies m village to vil

T.

Nearly all worship the cholera and t e

small-pox, and therearetraces ofserpentworsh ip.

The ancient history of the Provinceis very obscure. In the 5th centuryA.D. a race of foreigners, Yamuna,ruled from the Satpura plateau, and

between the l 0th and 13th centuries ,Rajputs of the Lunar Race governedthe country round Jubbulpore, and th ePramars of Malwa ruled territoryS. of the Satpuras. The Chanda

dynast of Gonds reignedas ear y as the l oth or 1

wry, and the H aihayas of

gar were of ancient date. In 13 9 8

A . 0 . there were princes reigning at

Kherla, on the Satpura plateau, and

Farish tah says they possessed al l th eIn 1467 th eythe Bahmani

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

7 6 Room 3. Bausawan ro sarcoma

529m. Kampti D.B . A large townand military cantonment on the righ t

bank of the Kanhan river, which is

spannedbyah andsomestonebridge thatcost C lose to it is therailwaybridge, a fine iron structure that cost

Pop. Kampti datesonly from the establishment of the

military station in 1821, and for aboutfi fty years it was governed entirely bythe military authorities. The neigh

bouring city of Nagpur during the

greater part of this timewas t he capitalof the state, and the residence of a

Maratha court. No more striking evidence could be adduced of

'

thejust andmoderate tone of the army administration than the rapid wth ofth is lace.

The roads are b and well lai out .

The English church was buil t in1833, and there is a high ly useful

Roman Catholic establishment of the

order of St. Francis de Sales with a.

church and convent, wheregood education is given to a class of ch ildren wh owould otherwise be neglected. Th ere

are 5 mosques and 70 H indu temples.

559 m. Bhandara Road is

about (3m. fromthe town, wh ich is closeto theW aingangariver. It is thehead

quarters ofa district of the same name,and contains the usual public offi ces

,

sch ools, and institutions. Pop.

Between Bhandara and Nagpur few of

the richer natives evermount a horse,they ride astride on the pole ofa veryli h t two-wheeledex-cart called a ringi.

e oxen for these carts are a s ecial

breed, very small and active, an capable oi sustaining a trot equal to the

pace of an ordinary ca e horse.

H ere is theR. BarbourMedicaMissionof theFree Church ofScotland.

615 m. Amgaon sta. (R. )From 624 m. Salekasa sta. to

647 m. Dongargarh sta. the line

passes throu h hills and heavy bamboo

Jungles, an through a pass with a

tunnel at the summit. Thenear th is tunnel is famous for generally

O

haviug a man-eating tiger in it .During th e construction of the railwaya large number of natives were killedhere, and Vi ct ims have more recentlybeen carried 0111 Large game of all

Indra

sorts abounds. Dongargarh is a largeengine-changing station, with a con

siderable European population con

nectedwith the railway. The ruins of

a fort areon theN.E. face ofa detachedh ill , some 4 m. in circuit. Inside the

fortified space there are tanks forwater

su ply, but no buildings.08 m. Raipur sta. The ch ief town

of a district of the same name, theresidenceofthecommissionerofChadia

garh, and a small military cantonment.

The usual offi ces will be found. Theold town was to the S. and W . of the

present one, wh ich was laid out byColonel A aw in 1830. The 0 is

he town is surroun sci)

bytanks and groves of trees, which formits attraction. TheFort was buil tRaja Bhuraneswar Sing in 1460, an

in its time was a ver strong w ork.

Its outer wall is near y l m. in cir

cumference. Large quantities of stone

were used in its construction, th ough

no quarries exist in theneigh bourh ood.

The Barber Tank , on the S. , the sameage as theFort, covered nearl 1 s

q’ezn.

In later improvements it has n

reduced in extent. Theare on its E. shore.

Tank was constructed by a revenue

farmer in the times of theMarathas,and close to it is the temple of Ramchandra, built in 1775 by BhimbajiBhonsla. Thereareseveral oth erreservoirs in the suburbs and in the centre

of the town is the Kanka li tank , con

structed of stone throughout , at the

close of the 17th century.

776 m. Bilaspur junc. sta.

Th is place is a large engine-changing

centre.

[BranchN.W . through amountainousdistrict and the coal-fi elds of Umariato 198 m. Kath i junc. on the E. I. Rly.

(p. This branch passes at Pmdrasta. , under the Amarkantak plateau(4000 ft. ) where the Nerbudda has itssource. There are several tern les

and a“khund or reservoir one os

ing the head spring. The lateau

is freqtt

l

lented by the“tirath

tand o er pilgrims. )The traveller enters the province of

Ch attisgarh about Amgaon, 95 m. E.

ofNagpur, and continues in it to about

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

ROUTE 4 .

ofMandu, the ancient capital of the'

kingdom ofMalwa. It is in the territory of the Maharaja of Dh ar, andthe best route is by tongs or carriage

to the town ofDhar (10 tak ing an

introduction from the political agentto theMaharaja, who will then makearrangements for the remaining 20 m.

ofthejourney. Dhar is a walled townof some historical and archwologicalinterest, containing several ruined

mosques.

Anoth erroute, avoiding Dhar, passes downthe main road for about 10 m. , and thenstrikes off into the country t Nalcha ,

wh ere the ruins commence. A nt is neces

sary. Small me shootingmay be obtainedalong the roa but it is advisable to get permission from the general atMh ow, orat anyrate to inform the agent at Dhar.

Mandu (1944 ft. ) occupies 8 m. of

ground, extending along the crest of

the Vindhyas ; and is as rated fromthe tableland, with whic it is on a

level, by a valley. The traveller can

pass the nigh t in one of the temples,if he does not object to bats and bad

air, but hewill do better to take a tentwith h im and campbeyond thevillage,near the JummaMusjid, on the vergeof the eat lake. Path s havebeen cut

throng the jungle to al l the ruins ofinterest, the ch ief being the J umnwMadrid, less injured than any of the

others, and said to be the finest and

largest specimen ofAfghan architectureextant in India ; the Fort, the Water

Palace, the marbleMausoleum of H o

shang Ghori, King ofMalwa, wh o

raised the city to great splendour and

the Palace of Baz Bahadur, another

king ofMalwa. These once m i

fi cent buildings are still, in t eir

ruined state, very striking on account

of their massive proportions. The

fortifications were constructed byH oshang Gh ori, who reigned in the

beginning of the 15th cent . , and in

whose time the city attained itsgreatestsplendour. In 1526 Mandogarh was

taken by Bahadur Shah , ruler of Guzerat , and annexed to h is dominions, ofwh ich it remained part until their eonquest by Akbar in 1570. Of late yearsmeasures h avebeen taken for thepreservation of some of th emost interestingruins. According toMalcolm,Mandu

KH ANDWA TO A JMERE

was founded in 313 A .D. Its h istory(written by a resident of Dhar) shouldbe looked at before visiting the place.It will be found full ofinterest foranyone who is at all ac uainted with the

ancient h istory ofMe. wa. SirThomasRoe, the Ambassador of J ames I. ofEngland, enteredMandu in the trainof Jchangir, part of the triumphal

procession of the Great Mogul being500 elephants. SirT. R. complains inhis Memoirs of the lions wh ich then

infested the country, and killed oneof

his baggage ponies. The Rajas of the

townsMandu and Chitor were at feud

with each other for many years (seeCh itor). From June till Nov. the

locality is very unhealthy.

is very wild, the scenery fine,of various sorts, includingabounds ]

87 m. Indore sta D.B . Th is place

is the capital of the state, and the

residence of H olkar the Maharaja.Po

Fndore stands on an elevated and

healthy site. Of recent years modernimprovements have been introduced.

Roads have been metalled, drainsbuilt, the water-supply cared for, and

the principal streets ligh ted. Amon

the

1

(

ihiefo

rgects 0

5interest

l1qth

qI l,or en, t emint, ec oo

Brigh t -sla

ms, reading-room, dispen

sary, an large cotton-mill . There is

considerable export trade in grain. To

the W . of the city is an antelope pre

serve. Adjoining the town, on the

other side of th e rly. , is the British

Residency, an area assigned by treaty,and containin not only the h ouse and

park of the vernor-General’

s agent

and the bungalows occupied by his

staff and other offi cials, but a bazaar of

someimportance, and thecentral opiumstores and weighing agency. The

barracks for the Governor General'

s

nativeescort and the Rajkumar Collegefor the education ofyoun native chiefs

and nobles are also wit in th e Resi

denc limits. H ere is a Mission of

the resb terian Church of Canada.

The pa ace of theMaharaja 1 m.

from the rly. with its ofty,many-storied gateway, is situated al

RO UTE 4 . FATEH ABAD

most in th e centre of the city, and is a the labour she imposed upon herself,eons ionone object from every part of and wh ich from the age of 30 to thatit. lt faces E. and is in a small square, of 60, when she died, was unremitted.

with th e Go 1 Mandir to the S. , The hours gained from the affairs ofwhich was bui t by Krishna Bai, H .H .

’

s the state were all given to acts of

mother. To the W . of the palace is devotion and charity, and a deep sense

the Sharafa Street,where the money ofreligion appears to h ave strengthened

lenders, chieflyMarwaris, live. C lose hermind in performance ofherworldlyby is the H aldi Bazaar, where the duties. H er ch aritable foundationsdealers in opium live, and the Itwar, extend all over India, from the H imaor Sunday Street, where a market is layas to Cape Comorin, and from Somheld on Sundays. A t the end of th is nath to the Temple of Jagannath inis the old jail . H .H . sometimes re the E.

”

Ah alya Bai is certainly theceivasguests in theLal Bagh mentioned most distinguished female character inabove

,wh ich is on the banks of the Indian h istory . Th is short notice is

river, and contains a handsome villa. given as it will robably add interestAt one end is a h ouse where several to the temples ansgh ats erected by her,lions are kept , and there is also an wh ich the traveller will find in almostaviary. In an up rroom are rtraits every place ofnote he visits in India.

ofmany H indu jas . In t e lower 112 m. Fateh abad junc. sta. (R. )story is a handsome h all of audience, From here a short branch line of 26 m.

which looks out on a gh at and on the runs to

Bursati river, which is dammed up [Ujjain (or Ujjaivini) Th ishere. From the terraced roof is a fi ne is situatedview over the country. on the ri h t bank of the river Sipra,Th e Sursuti river divides th e city. which fal s into the Chambal after a

Theold capital oftheH olkerfamilywas total course of 120m. Ujjain is in theMaheshvar in Nimar, on the bank s of dominions of theMaharaja Sindia. oftheNerbudda, wh ere is th emagnifi cent Gwalior inMalwa, ofwh ich it was onceChattri (a monumental memorial) of the capital . It stands inN. lat . 23

°

11'

Abs lya Bai, anancestress ofH olker. Sir and is the spot wh ich marked th eJohnMalcolm says ofth is lady :

“The first meridian ofH indugeographers . Itcharacter of her administrationwas for is said to have been the seat of the vicemore than th irty years the basis of the royalty ofAsoka, during thereign ofhis

rity wh ich attended the dynasty father at Pataliputra, the capital of

tow ich she belon ed. She sat every Magadha, supposed to be the modernday for a considera ls period in open Patna, about 263 It is, however,durbartransacting business . H er first best known as th e capital of the cele

Ei

‘nls of overnmcnt appears to brated Vikramaditya (Valour

’s sun),

e n mo crate assessment and an founder of the era called Samvat , wh ichalmost sacred respect for the native

3h“ofvillage officers andproprietorsland. She heard every complaint

inperson,and alth ough she continu

llly referred causes to courts of equitya d arbitration, and to her ministersfur settlement , sh e was always acces

begins 57 H eis said to havedriven

out the Shakas or Scyth ians, and to

have reigned over'

almost all N. India.

At h is court flourish ed the Nine Gemsof H indu literature, viz. Dhanvantari,Kshapanaka, Amarasinha, Shanku ,

Vetela-bhatta, Ghats -karpara. Kali

I'

hle, and so strong was h er sense of dasa, Varanruch i, and Varaha-mih ira.

fl y on all points connected with the“fibution of justice, that she is re

p seuted as not only patient , but nu”Buried in the investigation of th emost insignificant causes when appealsweremade toh er decision. It a pears,above all

, extraordinary h ow 8 e hadmantel andbodily powers togo through

[India]

Of these thepoet Kalidasa h as obtained

a European celebrity . Ujjain, as well

as the whole province ofMalwa, wasconquered by Ala

-ud-din Kh ilji, whoreigned at Delh i 1295-1317 A .D .

1387 A .D . the Mohammedan Viceroydeclared himself independent . H IS

name was Dilawar Khan Ghori, of

G

82 ROUTE 4.

Afghan ori'

n, who ruled from 1387to 1405, an madeMandu his ca ital.

In 1531 Malwa was conquers byBahadur Shah , King ofGuzerat, and in1571 by Akbar. In 1658 th e decisive

battle between Aurangzib andMuradand their elder brother Dara, was

fough t near this city. In 1792 J aswant Rao H olker took Ujjain,

and

burned rt of it. It then fell into

the ban s of Sindia, whose capital it

was till 1810, when Daulat Rao Sindia

removed to Gwalior.The ruins of ancient Ujjain are

situated about 1 m. to the N. of the

modern city, wh ich is oblong in sha e,

and 6 m. in circumference, surroun ed

by a stonewall with round towers, and

on all sides by a belt of groves and

gardens. The principal bazaar is a

spacious street , flanked by h ouses of

two stories, and having also four

mosques, many H indu temples, and a

palace ofMaharajah Sindia. Near thelace is an ancient gateway, said to

ave been part of Vikramaditya’

s fort.

At the S. end ofthe city is the Observa

tory, erected by J ai Sin Rajah of

J oy re, in the time of t e EmperorMu ammad Shah . The same princeerected observatories at Delh i, Jeypore,Benares, and Muttra (see Benares

Observatory).161 m. Butlamjunc . sta . D.E.

(Branch line W . by Godhra Anand

junction forBaroda, E. to Ujjsin), is th ecapital of a native state and the resi

dence of the chief. It was founded byRatna, great

-

grandson of Uday Sing,Maharajah of J odhpur. Ratna was at

the battle of Fatehabad, near Ujjain,in which Jaswant Rao Rathor, with

Rajputs, fou h t Aurangzib and

Murad, with the wholeMogul army.

Tod, vol . ii. p. 49 , says,“O f all the

deeds of heroism rformed that day,those of Ratna of tlam by universalconsent arepre

-eminent . ” Outside the

town th echiefhas a very charmingvillaand garden, in wh ich he entertains

guests. Th e alace in which thePrinceresides is wit thewalls, and is a fi nenew building,with a h andsomereceptionroom. The town is a great emporiumfor opium. There is a Chauk or

square, buil t by Munsh i Shahamat

KH ANDWA TO A JMEBE India

’

Al i,wh o administered the state duringthe Raja

’

s minority. Beyond this

square is the Chandni Chauk , in which

the bankers live ; and this leads to the

Tirpoli a Gate, outside which is the

Amrit augar tank , wh ich in th e rains

is very extensive. In the town is a

college with 500 students.

213 m. Mandasor sta. A fortified

town, remarkable as being the place

where in 1818, at the end of the

PindariW ar, a treaty wasmadebetween

the British Government and H olkar.

H ere severe figh ting occurred in 1857

between the rebels and a bri do of

British troo s movin from h ow to

relieve the ritish o cers besieged in

the fort of Neemuch . Early in that

memorable yearMandasor became the

headquarters of a serious rebellion

wh ich threatened allMalwa.

243 m. Neemuch sta. at! D .E. ,is

on the Rajputana andMalwa Rly. line.

A cantonment of British tr00ps con

taining the usual barracks and sub

sidiary buildings, also a small fort.

Neemuch was about themost southerlylace to wh ich the mutiny extended.

n 1857 the place was garrisoned by a

brigade of native troops of all arms of

the Bengal army. Th l s forcemutiniedand marched to Delhi, the Euro n

officers taking refuge in the fort , w ere

they were besie ed by a rebel force fromMandsaur, an defended themselvesllantly until relieved by a brigade

omMhow. Some 42 ladies and noncombatants found refuge at O odeypur.

278 m. Chitor sta. at: (Branch lineto Debari for Oodeyporep

. The

Gambheri river is crossed y a massiveold bridge ofgray limestone, with tenarches, all ofpointed shape, except the

sixth from theW . bank, which is semicircular. The gateways and towers

wh ich existed at eitherend ofthebrid

have now disa Unfortunate ythe bridge is eficient in water-way, so

that floods pass over the parapets and

cut into the banks, and consequentlythe ford has to be used. The date and

by’

Alau-ud-din, about 1308 A .D.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

84‘

some 4. xnxnnwx ro smear. India

with an internal narrow and cram beaut of detail wh ich characterizes

staircase ; the topstorey is Open, an its such uildings in general. In front is

roof, which rests onpillars, andhas been a court surrounded by guard-roomsand

much damaged by hgh tning, has bushes entered by a vaulted gateway.

growingon it. Itsconstruction is locally The Palace of Batna Sing (orBhim)attributed by some toKhatanRani, wife is a very leasingexampleof the styleofofKhata Hans , and by others to Allata the H in u arch itect ure of th is countryRana, who ruled A .D . 950 oraccording in the 13th cent. That of h is wife

to Tod A .D . 895 . Fra ents of an in Rani Padmani is a la e and beautiful

scribed stone are on t 0 ground under building overlook ing t is tank . Froma tree just N. of the tower. one of these palaces Akbar carried oll

’

From theW . ridgetheview opens out, thefamousgates now in thefort at Agraanda semicircularvalley is seenwith the The Temple of Vriji, built by RanaElephant reservoir close to the cliffand Kumbo about 1450, is a massive builda background oftrees, out ofwhich rises ing with a silcra (or tower) of unusuthemagnificent Jaya-stambh or Tower ally large proportions. Adjoining itofVictory . Ofth isMr. Fergusson says : is a temple, in the same style,“To Kumbo, wh orei edfrom 1418-68, built by his wife, the famousMira Bai,we owe th is tower, w

’

ch was erected to of which the chief peculiarity is that

commemorateh is victory overMahmud, the procession path round the cell is

kin

gofMalwa, in 1439. It is a Pillar an open colonnade with four small

of ictory, like th at ofTrajan at Rome, pavilions at the corners.but of infi nitely better taste as an archi A t theh ighest point in Ch itor a broad

tectural object . It has nine storeys, terrace has been made, whence theresuch of which is distinctly marked on is a magnificent view .

the outside. A stair in the centre Near the Tower of Victory is theleads to each storey, the two upper ones M an ta, a small wooded terrace, thebeing open andmore ornamented than pleasantest spot on the h ill , wh ich wasthose below . It stands on a base 47 ft . the place of cremation of the Rams

square and 10 ft . high , and is 30 ft . before Oodeypurwas founded. Below,

uare rising to a heigh t of 122 ft . , the on a lower terrace, are th e Gaumukhw olebeing coveredwith ornaments and springs and reservoir. The springssoul tures to such an extent as to leave issue from the cliff at places wh ere are

no p ain part , while thismass ofdecora cow-mouth carvings , hence the name.

tion is kept so subdued that it in no way To the S.W . is a large carved stone

interferes with the outline or general tem lo, built by Rana Mukalji. On

effect . The old dome was‘

injured by the 0 wall is a huge carved head.

ligh tning, and a new one was substi A branch line runs from Chitor totuted by H . H . Sarup Sing. The stair Debari, whence there is a regularserviceis much wider and easier than that in ofvehicles toOodey re, 8milesdistant.the J ain tower (the small Kirthan), and Dabok , where liv Colonel Tod, thein the inside are of H indu first Resident andauthorofthe“Annalsdeities witlr the names be ow. In the of Ragastan,

”lies in ruins a few miles

top storey are 2 of the original 4 slabs south ofDebari.with long inscriptions. The tower took About 1 m. before reach ing the capi

~

7 to 10 yrs. to build, from 1548 to ta1, the Arh river is crossed, with

1558. On the road at the corner of the the old ruined town of that name

lowerplatform is a squarepillarrecord on its banks. This stream collectsing a sati in 1468, A .D.

”the whole drainage of the Gitwa.

C lose by the gate of the Sun, on the the natural outlet from which was

E. rampart, are two large tanks, andad dammed upwith an immensemasonryjoining them is the finePalace ofRana embankment by Maha Rana UdaiKinnbo, th e builder of the Tower of Sing. H e thus formed the UdaiV ictory, a fine example of the domestic Saugar Lake, the surplus waters fromamh lmtm‘

e.

Of s putana before the wh ich , escaping, form the Birach river.Mussulman myasion, sh owing all the Oodeypore, or Udaypur, themarvel

ROUTE 4 .

lolimpicturesque capital of the state

ofMower, the residence of theMaharana, Sarup Sing, and of the British

Resident, to wh om a suitable intro

duction should be brough t .It is difficult to conceive anythingmorebeautiful than the situation ofthis

place. Itmay bedescribed as thecentreoftheLakeDistrict of India. Some of

the best views are obtained from the

palace, the embankment, or the DudhTalao

,more especially in the mornin

when theearly sun ligh ts up themarb eof the water with the darkwaterbeyond, and the still dark erback

ground of the h ills .

The City is surroundedby a bastionedwall, wh ich towards the S. encloses

several large gardens. TheW . side isfurther protected by the lake, and theN. and E. sides by a moat suppliedfrom the lake, wh ile on the S. thefortifi ed h ill of Ek linjgarh rises steepand rugged. The principal gatewaysare theH athi Pol or Elephant Gate,

”

to the N. th e Kherwara Gate, to theS. ; the Suraj P0], or

“Gate of theSun,

”

on the E. and the Delh i Gate.

On the side towards the lake is a

handsome Timoliya , or three-archedwater gateway. Another gate withmassive arches opens on a bridge, andleads to a suburb on theW . of th e lake.

The beautiful Pola Lake lies to theW. of th e city. It is said to h ave beenconstructed in portions at difl

'

erent

periods . Udai Sing probabl comweneed it . TheN. portion is ca led theSamba-Sang” , h aving been constructed

by a R ana Saru Si ng. The grovesandpalaces on the is nds are so beautiful at th e traveller will be glad to

pals ew h ole day there ; but the boatsoaths lak e belong to theMaha Rana,and are on ly obtainable through theResident . There is fine mak seer andother fi sh ing in the lake, for wh ich

Permission must be obtained. In one

Ofthe Pa la ces theEmperorShah Jehan,than Prince Salim, took sh elter fromth displeasure of h is father Jchangir.

Here are retained some relics of th ePrince, and there is a handsome shrineOf pol ish ed stone. H ere too the 42mingaca from Neemuch , at the time of

OODEYPORE

tected by theMaha Rana Sarup Sing.

From another of the palaces, Outramwhen taunted b the Maha Rana,sprang into the la e, swarming th oughit was with alligators, who were beingfed, and swam to shore. Th e fine

H indu Temple is a perfect example ofthe Indo-Aryan style. The porch is

covered with a lowpyramidal roof,

placed diagonally on t e substructure,and rising in steps, each of which is

ornamented with vases or urns of

varyin shapes. The tower is orna

mente b four flat bands, of great

beauty an elegance ofdesign, between

each ofwhich are 35 little repetitions

of itself, placed one above the other in

5 tiers, the whole surmounted by an

amalaka, and an urn of very elegant

design. Every part is carvedwith great

precision and delicacy.

”

(Ferguson. )A day should be spent in a visit to

the Royal Palace on the brink of the

lake, if rmission can be obtainedfrom the esident. The modern partof the palace, close above the lake,is the part most accessible. It is a

most imposing pile of ranite and

marble, of quadrangular s ape, risingat least 100 ft . from the ground, and

flanked with octaglonal towers, crowned

with cupolas . Alt ou h built at various

periods , uniformity 0 design has been

well preserved nor is there in theEast

a more striking structure. It stands

upon the very crest of a rid e, runnin

paral lel to, but considerab y elevate

above the margin of the lake. The

terrace, which is at the E. and ch ief

front of thepalace, extends through out

its length , and is supported by a triple

row of arches, from the declivity of

the ridge. The heigh t of this arcaded

wall is full 50 ft ., and alth ough all is

hollow beneath , yet so admirably is

it constructed, that an entire range of

stables is built on the extreme verge

of the terrace, on wh ich all the forces

of theMaha Rana, elephants, cavalry,and infantry, are often assembled.

From th is terrace thecity and thevalleylie before the spectator, whosevision is

bounded only by the distant hills ;while from the summit of the palace

nothing obstructs the view over laketheMutiny, were received and pro There is a hospital,

86 acorn: 5 . ITARSI J UNCTION 'ro cawnroaa

church , and home of the U.P. ChurchofScotland.

A drive should be taken along the

fiancipal street of Oodeypur from theathi Pol through the mam bazaar to

the Palace, graduallyalong the

side of the ndge an passin the at

Jagdes Temple. Another rive eadsthrough the bazaars from either theDelhi or Suraj Pol Gate to the OrdabGarden, which , with its stately trees,beautiful flowers, walks and fountains,is well worth a visit . Passing throu bit, go to the Dudh Talao or

“m'

k

tan a branch of the Pechola Lake,and by a pictnr no road round it re

turningto theD. b theoutsideroad.

Another visit may made to A ha r,3 m. to the E. of the lake, where are

the cenotaphs oftheMaharanas . These

chattris containing there al ashes stand

in what is called theMa asati or royal

place ofcremation, which is enclosed bya lofty wall and is adorned bymany finetrees. Themost remarkable are those

of Sangram Singh II . , a large and

beautiful structure,andofAmara Singh ,grandson of Udai Singh .

‘ Besides the

modernvillageofAhar, thereis th eoldertown, where are ruined temples, whichare the chiefobjects ofinterest, and alsosome still more ancient mounds .

Ifhehas time, the travellermay to

see the great lake at Kankroli, or jnagar, called the Rajsamudra, 30m. to

theN. ofOodeypur. Theretainingwall

of this lake is of massivemasonry, inmany places 40 ft . high . The Band or

Ghat is 1l 15 ft . long, with pavilions and

torans or ornamental arches all of

marble behind is an embankment 35

yds . wide. It was erected (1660) as afaminework . There is a faircart-track

The Dhibar, or Jaisamand lake,is about 20 m. S.E. of Oodeypur citythro h a wild country ; it is about9 m. ong by 5 m. broad, and is one ofthemost beautiful sigh ts in India. )879 m. Nun-em bed sta. , D.B.

The military cantonment for Ajmere.

The station was originally laid out in1818 by SirDavid Och terlony. It is a

long, str lin

gqplace. Some into

is attach to usseerabad from1 SeeFergum n,

ROUTE 5

India

fact that when the mutiny broke out

in 1857, the BombayCavalry (l et)werecom lled to remain neutral— tho h

loy y inclined— as the families oft e

native offi cers and men were at the

mercy of a Ben I regiment, whomutinied andmare ad on Ajmere. A

cavalry skirmish took place nearwherethe railway station now stands, inwh ich several offi cers lost their lives.

None of the offi cers’

bungalows ofthe

l at cavalry were touched. One ofi cer,on his return to Nusseerabad in more

peaceful times, found even h is clock

on mantelpiece as he left it . Good

small -game sh ootin and

gig

-stickingare to be had in t e ne

’

bourhood.

Here is a Scottish (U .P. )'

on.

393m. Ajmerejunc. sta. (seeRte.

Iraasr J UNCTION 'ro Cawxroas,

TH ROUGH BH OPAL, BH ILSA,m

J m sr.

Itarsi junc. sta. 464m. from Bombayn the G. I.P. Railway (see Rte.

11 m. Hoshangabad sta. , D .B. Atown with population of the

headquarters of a district of th e samename. The lace contains nothing todetaina trave er. Passingout ofH oshan

gabad the railway crosses the Ner

bu da on a fine bridge. About 4 mN. of the Nerbudda river the ascent

of the gh at commences, and at the topthe line runs on the tableland ofMalwa, wh ich has an average elevationof 1500 ft.

57m. Bhopal sta. D.B. [Branchto Ujjain]. The town stands on theN.

bank ofa fine and extensive lake, 4; m;

longand 1; broad. Bho is thecapitalof a native state, nu or the Central

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

88 ROUTE 5 . ru ns: JUNCTION To CAWNPORE India

Notwithstanding all that has been

written about them,we know very lit tle

that is certain regarding their Objectand their history.

5 m. from B hilsa is Sanch i, at: where

u so no n

there is a group of 11 topes. O f these

t he principal is

|00FY

Section Great Tope at Sanch i.

The Great Tops , a dome 106 ft . in In one tope, 24 ft. in diameter, werediameter and 42 ft . h igh . On the top found relics of Sariputra and oth ers

is a flat space 34 ft . in diameter, once like those found at Sanch i.

surrounded by a stone railing. In the At B hojpur, 7 m. from Sanch i, are

centre was a Tee,

”

intended to repre 37 topes , the largest 66 ft . in diameter,sent a relic-cask et . The dome, 42 ft . and in the next to it important reliesh 3gh , rests on a sloping base 120 ft . in were found. At Andker, 5 m. W . ofdiameter, and 14 ft . h lgh , and was as Bhojpur, is a group Of three small but

cended by a broad double ramp onone

side. It was probably used for proces

sions round themonument. The centre

Of the mound is quite solid, beingof

bricks laid in mud, but the exterior is

faced with dressed stones, over which

was cement nearly 4 in. thick ,origin

ally adorned, no doubt , with paintings

or ornaments in relief.

As is usual in these Buddh ist to

th e building is surrounded by rai

exh ibiting the various steps by which

the modes Of decorating th em were

arrived at , with 4 gateways or torans

(3 in sttu), covered with most elaborate

sculptures, quite unequalled by anyotherexamples known to exist in India.The period of erection probably ex

tended from about 250 to th e l at

cent. of the Christian era ; th e rails

were constructed first and the gate

ways at intervals afterwards.

Besides the group at Sanch i, th ere is

at Smart, 6 m. off,a. group of eight

topes, ofwhich two areimportant structures in square courtyards, and in one

Of th ese numerous relics were found.

At Sadhara, 3 m. farther, is a tope 101ft . in diameter, wh ich yieldedno relics.

ROUTE 5 .

streams that flow through a rockybarrier about 800 ft. high . The ridgeis covered with old battlements anddefences. The fort was destroyed bySir H ugh Rose in 1858.

238 m. J hansi junc. sta. :t: D.E.

centre ofthe IndianMid. Rly. system.

The main line runs N.E. to Cawn

pore, a branch N. toGwalior and Agra,and another E. thro h Banda to

the E. I. Rly. at Man '

pur. J hansiis one of the main halting-places fortroupe proceeding up country. It is

well worthy ofa visit on account of itsFort, wh ich the British Governmenthave exchanged withMaharaja SindiaforGwalior.

The Province of Bundelkund, inwhich Jhansi is

’

situated, has for agesbeen one of the most turbulent and

diffi cult to manage in all India. In

the early part of the 17th century the

Orchha state was verned b BirSing Deo, wh o built t e fort ofJ ansi,8 m. to the N. of h is capital , wh ich issituated on an island 1n the Betws

river. H e incurred the heavy dis

pleasure of Akbar by the murder of

Abul Fazl, the Emperor’s favourite

minister and h istorian, at the instiga

I'I‘ARSI J UNCTION TO CAWNPORE

titude, and wererewarded on thes a'

s

death , in 1734, by a nest of onethird of h is dominions. he territorymogmnted included portions of the

m ern division ofJhansi, but not the

existing district itself. In 1742, however, theMarath as found a pretext for

attackin the Orchha State, and eu

nexing t at amongst other territories.

Theirgeneral founded thecityofJhansi.and opled it with the inhabitants of

Orc a.

The district remained under th e ruleof the Peshwas until 1817 when theyceded their ri h ts to the E. I . Com

Under ritish protection, native

ruled until their folly and ih

competency ruined the country, and

when the dynasty died out in 1858

their territories lapsed to the British

Government. The J hansi State, with

Jaloun and Chanderi Districts , were

then formed into a Superintendency,wh ile a pension was ted to the

Rani or widow of the to Raja Rao.

The Rani, however, considered herselfa

ggrieved, both because she was not

a owed to adopt an h eir, and because

the slaugh ter of cattle was permitted

in the J ansi territory. Reports werespread wh ich excited the rehgious pre

tion ofPrince Salim, afterwards known judices of th e H indus.

as the Emperor Jchangir. A force wasaccordingly sent against h im in 1602the countrywasravagedanddevastated,but Bir Sing himself contrived to

escape. On the accession of h is patron,Salim, in 1605, he was naturallyrdoned, and rose into great favour ;ut when, on the death of th at em

peror in 1627 , Shah J ehan mountedthe throne, Bir Sing revolted. H isrebellionwas unsuccessful,andalthoughhe was permitted to keep possession of

his dominions, he never regained all

his former power and independence.

During the troubled times which suc

ceeded, Orchha was sometimes in the

hands oftheMohammedans and sometimes fell under th e power of Bundalach ieftains. In 1732 Chatar Sal foundit expedient to call in the aid of theMarathas, wh o were then invading theCentral Provinces under , their firstPeshwa, Baj1 Rao. They came to h isassistancewith theiraccustomedpromp

Theevents of 1857 accordingly found

Jhansi ripe for rebellion. InMay itwas known that the troo were dis

affected, and on the 5th 0 J une a few

men of the 12th Native Infantry seizedthe fort containing the treasure and

magazine. Many European offi cers

were sh ot th e same day. The re

mainder, wh o had taken refuge in

a fort , capitulated a few days after,and weremassacred with their familiesto thenumber of 66 persons, in spite of

a promise of protection sworn on the

Koran and Ganges water. The Rani

then attempted to seize the supremeauthority, but the usual anarch ic

quarrels arosebetween therebels, duringwhich the Orch ha leaders laid siege

to Jhansi and plundered the countrymercilessly. On the 4th ofApril 1858

the fort and town were captured 13Sir

Hugh Rose, who marched on to alpi

without being able to leave a garrison

at J hansi. After his departure, thi

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

9 2 ROUTE 5A . w as 'ro MANIKPUR

once more la sad to Government . It

was next han ed over to Gobind Rao,who exchanged it two years later for

villages farther to the W . Since

that time Kalpi has remained a British

possession. AfterthecaptureofJ hansi,and therout ofthemutineers atKoonch ,

J hansi, Rao Sahib, and the Nawab of

Bands , who then fled to Gwalior.

Kalpi was formerly a place of far

greater importance than at the present

day. The East India Company madeit one of their principal stations for

providin their commercial invest

ments. 5The western outskirt of th e

town,alon the river side, contains a

num r of ruins, notably th e

tomb called the 84 Demos, and 12

other handsome mausoleums. At one

time the town adjoined these ruins,but it has gradually sh ifted south

eastward. Ganesganj and Ternanganj,two modern quarters in that direction,

at

gresent conduct all the traffi c. The

bui dings of the old commercial agencycrown some h igherground, but are now,

for the most part , empty. A ruined

fort, situated on the steep bank of the

J umna, overhangs the ghat.

374 m. Cawnpore junc. sta. (see

p.

ROUTE 6a

Acne 'ro Gwamoa

,JH ANBI

,BANDA,

ANDMamxrlm.

Starting from the Agra. Fort StationHistory.

(p. 168) by th e IndianMidland Rail General Cunningham 1n vol . 11. ofway, the traveller reaches at the Reports of the Awhwologioal Sur

36m.Dh olpur sta. the chieftown

ofthenativestateofthatname. In1658

Aurangzib defeated and k illed his elderbrother Dara -Shikoh at Ran-ka

Chabutara, 3 m. E. of Dh olpur. The

imperial princes, competitors for the

crown,’

Azim andMu’

azzim, fought 11

est battle in 1707 at the vil lage of

rebta near Dholpur, and the formerwas kil led, on whichMu’

azzim becameem ror,with thetitleofBahadur Shah .

he sigh ts ofDholpurare not numerous. The Palace is amoderately h andsome and very commodious building.

The tank ofMuch Kund, about 2 m.

from Dholpur, is about am. long, and

contains several islets, on which are

pavilions. The banks are lined with

temples, but none of them are ancient

or remarkable. There are alligators in

the tank , but th ough crowds ofpilgrimsbathe in the waters , there is no storyof any of them bein carried ofl

’

.

The river Chamial runs th rough

th is state, and is bordered everyw h ere

by a labyrinth ofravines, someofw h ichare 90 ft . deep, and extend to a distance

offrom 2 to 4m. from the river banks,near wh ich nthers are sometimesfound. The oods of the Chambal arevery remarkable. The h i h est recorded

flood above summer leve rose no less

than 97 ft . There is a very fine B ridge

over the stream about 4 m. from Dh ol

pur, built of the famous red sandstone

ofDholpur, a ridge ofwhich , from 560

to 1074 ft . above sea -level , runs for

60 m. through the territory, and sup

plies inexhaustible quarries.

77m.Gwm oa st-

.a. as D.B . The

capital ofMaharakja Sindia, and famous

for its fort , one o themost ancient andrenowned strongholds in India.

For many years a strong brigade of

British troopswasmaintained atMom ,

a few m. It . of the fort . The latter

was garrisoned by British troops from1858 to 1886, when it was restored to

theMaharajah ’

s custody, and Gwalior

andMorar were made over to him in

exchange for Jhansi.

aonra 5A . ewau oa

ey, gives a most valuable account of Gwalior as a state prison. In 1375

Gwalior. He says that of the three A .D . the Tamar ch ief, Bir Sing16th and 1 7th cent . authorities for the D00

,declared himself independent,

early h istory of Gwalior, Kharg Bai and founded the Tumar dynasty of

mys Gwalior was founded 3101 B .C . ; Gwalior.

that Fazl’

Ali assigns 275 A . D . as the In 1416 and 1421 the Gwalior chiefs

year of its foundation ; and that this paid tribute to Kh izr Khan of Delhi,date is also adopted by H iraman. and in 1424 Gwalior, being besieged

Tiefl'

enthaler, W ilford, and Cnnning by H ushang Shah ofMalwa, was denam agree in fixing on th is later date. livered by Mubarak Shah of Delh i.

According to Cunningham, Toramana In 1426, 1427, 1429 , and 1432, the

was a tributary prince under theGup King ofDelhi marched to Gwalior, andtea, against whom he rebelled, and exacted tribute. Dimgar Sing, 1425 ,became sovereign of all the territory commenced the great rock sculptures

Between th e J umna and Nerbudda, at Gwalior, and his son Kirti Sing,and in the reign of his son,

275 1454, comple them. In 1465 H usain

A.D. , th e Sun Temple was built, the Sharki, king of Jaunpur, besieged

Suraj Kund excavated, and Gwalior Gwalior, and obli ed it to pay tribute.

founded, by Suraj Sen, a Kachhwahachief, who was a leper, and comingwhen hunting to the hill of Gopagiri,on which the Fort of Gwalior now

stands, got a drink of water fromthe hermit Gwali wh ich cured himof his leprosy. n gratitude for thathebuil t a fort on the h ill, and calledit Gwaliawar, or Gwalior. SurajSen got a new name, Suhan Pal, fromthe hermit , with a promise that hisdes cendants sh ould reign as long as

they were called Pal ; so 83 reigned,but the 84th was called Taj Kara, andhaving discarded the name of Pal, losthis kingdom.

Th is Kachhwaha dynasty was suc

ceeded by seven Parihara princes, whoruled for 103 years till 1232 A . whenGwaliorwas taken by Altamsh , in the2lst year of the reign ofSarang Deo.

General Cunningham found an inscription on an old stone sugar

-mill atChitanli betweenNurwar and Gwalior,which is dated SamwatA.D. , in the reign of Ram Deo, wh icht

rees with and strongl corroborates

i s dates he has accepThe capture of Gwaliorby A ltamshwas commemorated in an inscription

placed over the ate of the Urwah i,and the Emperor abar states that heas it , and th e date was 630 A.H .

1232 A.D. Briggs , in a note to Firish

Man Sin acknow edged the supremacyof Bah lo Lodi and of Sikandar Lodi,but the latter in 1505 marched against

Gwalior, fell into an ambuscade and

was repulsed with great loss. In

1506, however, he captured H immat

garh , but passed by Gwalior, wh ich he

de

spaired of reducing. In 1517 he

m e great preparations at A re for

the conquest of Gwalior, but ied of

quinsy. Ibrah im Lodi had sent an

army of 30,000 h orse, 300 elephants,and other troops, against Gwalior, and

a few days after they reached that placeMan Sing died. H ewas the greatest

of the Tumar princes of Gwalior, and

constructedmanyusefulworks, amongstothers, the t tank to the N.W . of

Gwalior, ca ed theMoti J hil. Cun

nin ham says h is

1palace affords the

nob est specimen 0 H indu domesticarch itecture in N. India. H e was a

patron oftheFineArts, and an elephantsculptured in his reign, with two riders,was admired by the Emperor Babar,Abu-l -Fazl , and the traveller Finch .

AfterMan Sing’

s death h is son, Vikra

maditya, sustarned the siege fora year,but at last surrendered, and was sent

to A

Ba r sent Rahimdad with an armyto Gwalior, which h e took by a strata

gem, suggested by the holyMuhammadGhana. In 1542 Abu-l-Kasim, Gover

tth, says it is stil l to be seen, but norofGwalior, surrendered his fortressGeneral Cunningham sough t for it insin. From 1232 to Timar

’

s invasion Sher, brong

to Sher Shah . In 1545 Salim, son of

h t h is treasure from Chunarin 1398 the Emperor of Delhi used to Gwalior, and in 1553 died at the

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

96 Room 5A.

upon her track , i orant of her sex

and her rank , cut er down. She fell

to rise no more. That nigh t , her

devoted followers, determined that theEn lish should not boast that theyh

[firmed her even dead, burned

her y.

”

Following up the operations above

described late into the nigh t of the

19th June,Sir Hugh regained the

whole place Morar, the city, the

Lashkar everyth ing but the Fort,which was held

,

by a few fanatics, who

had fi red on our advancin troo

whenever they could throng ont til)

:day, and recommenced the followingmorning.

“On the morning of the 20th ,

J entenant Rose, 26th Bombay NativeInfantry, was in command with a de

tachment of h is regiment at the hot

wali, or police-station, not far from the

maingateway of therock fort. As the

guns rom its ramparts continued to

fi re, Rose pro sed to a brother offi cer,Lieutenant aller, who commanded a

small party of the same regiment nearh im, that they should attempt to

capture the fortress with their jointparties , urging that if the risk was

wt, the honourwould be still greater.

aller cheerq y assented, and th e

two ofiicers set off with theirmen and

a black smith , whom, not unwilling,they had engaged for the service.

They crept up to the first gatewayunseen. Then the blacksmith , a

powerful man, forced it open and so

with the other five gates that opposedtheir rogress. By the time the sixth

gate ad been forced the alarm was

given, and when the assailants reached

thearchwa beyond the last gate, the

were met y t 0 fire of a gun whio

had been brou h t to bear on them.

Dashing onwar s, unscathed b the

fire, the were speedily enga in a

hand-to and contest with thegarrison.

The fl h t was des rate, and manymen fe 1 on both si es. The gallantryof Rose and W aller and their mencarried all before them. Rose especiallydist inguish ed h imself. J ust in theh our of victory , h owever, as h e wasinciting h is

.

men to make the finalcharge, wh ich proved successful , a

AGRA TO MANIKPUR India

musket was fired at him from behindthe wall. Theman who had fi redthesh ot

,a mutineer from Baraili, then

rushed out and cut him down. Waller

came up, and despatched the rebel ;too late, however, to save his friend.

But the rock fortress was gained, and

continued in British hands till 1836.

The New City or Laminar — WhenDaulat Rao Sindia obtained possession

of Gwalior in 1794 - 1805 he pitched

h is cam on the open plain to the S.

of the ort . As the cam remained,th e tents soon disappears and a new

city rapidly sprung up, wh ich still

retains the name of Lash kar, or the

camp, to distinguish it from the old

city of Gwalior. The Sarafa , ormerchants

’

uarter, is one of the fi nest

streets in ndia. In the l l Bagh is theModem Palace of Mah araja Sindia

(not shown to visitors). In the centre

ofLashkar is the Burak , or Old Palace,and near it are the houses of the chief

Sardars,or nobles, of the state.

The new buildings worthy of a visit

are the Dufem’

n Sam i, the VictoriaCollege, and the Tayagi RaoMemm r

’

zd

H ospita l. The modern Temple waserected by Sindia

’

s mother, and is

mentioned by Fergusson.

Since theoccupation of the Lashkar,the Old City h as been gradually decaying, and is now only one-third as large

as theNew City. But the two together

still form one of the populous places in

India.

TheOld City ofGwalior is a crowdedmass of small flat -roofed stone h ouses.

Flanking the city to the N. stands a

curious old Pathan archwa the re

mains ofa tomb. Outside t egates isthe J umma H usjid, with its gilt pinnacled domes and lofty minarets. Sir

W . Sleeman says (Rambles, i. 347 )“It is a very beautiful m na, with

one end built byMuhammad an, in

1665 A .D . , of the wh ite sandstone of

the rock above it . It looks as fresh as

if it had not been finished a montIt has the usual two minars, and over

the arches and alcoves are carved pas.

sages from theKoran in beautiful Kufikcharacters.Beyond the stream and just on the

outskirts of the city, is the noble tomb

9 8 ROUTE 5A . AGRA roMANIKPUR

open hall in wh ich theMohammedangovernorssat todispensejustice, whenceit is called the Calcium .

The B adalgarh or Hindola te h asits name from the outwork B algarh ,

wh ich was called from Badal Sing, theuncle ofMan Sing. This gate is alsocalledH indola, from hindol,

‘aawin

which existed outside. It is a ne

specimen of Hindu architecture. An

inscription on an iron plate recordsits restoration by the Governor Saiyad’

A lam in 1648.

Close under the rock to the rt . istheatetel GujariPalace, buil t for thequeen ofKl an Sing. It measures 300ft . by 230 ft. , and is two stories high .

It is built ofhewn stone, but is much

The B ha iron or Bansur gate has itsname from one of the earliest KachhwahaRajahs. It iscalled Bansur, frombansar

, an archer,”lit . a bamboo

splitter, a man who had the charge

of it. On one of the jambs is an inscription dated 1485 A .D . , a year beforethe accession ofMan Sing.

The Ganesh Gate was built by Dun

gareli, who reigned 1424 to 1454. Outside is a small outwork called KabutarKhana, or pigeon house,

”in which

is a tank called Nur San r, 60 ft . x

39 ft. and 25 ft. deep. ere, too, is aH indu temple sacred to the hermitGem lipa, fromwhom the fort had itsname. It isa small squareopenpavilion,with a cu

fiola on 4 pillars. There is

also a sma mosquewith an inscriptionwh ich Cunningham thus translates

In the reign of thegreat Prince’

A’

lamgir,L ike the full-sh iningmoon,

The enli h tener of theworld,Pra ise be to that th is happy placeWas byM’

utamad Kh an completedA s a charitable gift.

It was the idol-tam ls of the vile GwaliH emade t a mosque

Like a mansion ofParadise.

Th e Khan ofenligh tened heart ,Nay , ligh t itself from head to foot .

Displayed thedivineligh t liketh at ofmid-day.

H e closed th e idol temple.

Th en follows the chronogram givinga date correspondin to 1664 A .D.

Before reach ing t 10 Lakshman Gate18 a temple h ewn out of the solid

rpck

.

and called Chatur-bhuj -m nd ir,sh rine of th e four-armed,

”sacred to

Vishnu, inside which , on the left, is a

long inseri tion, dated Samwat 933876 A .D. t is 12 ft. sq., with a porticoin front 10 ft. by 9 ft. supported by four

pillars. There is a tank here, andopposite to it the tomb of Taj Nizam,

a noble of the Court of Ibrah im Lodi,who was killed in assaulting th is gatein 15 18 A .D. Between thegates on thefaceoftherock arecarvings ofMah adeoand h is consort , and about 50Lingams.

There was a colossal group of the Boarincarnation, 15; ft . h igh , which Cunh ingham thinks to be one of the oldestsculptures in Gwalior it is quitedefaced. A figg‘:

ofan elephant over

the statue has u cut away to forma

canopy.

TheH athiya.Pater, orEle hant Gate,was built byMan Sing, an forms partofhis palace. Herewas the carving of

an elephant, wh ich Babar and A bu-lFazl praised.

Thereare threegates ontbeN.W . sideof the Fort , which have the generalname of Dhonda Paar, from an earlKachhwahaRajah . Inanup routwor

the state risonera used to confined.

The S. entrance is called Glam

gharj Paar, or Gurgling Gate, eitherfrom a well of that name inside, or

from a redoubt . It has fi ve gates insuccession, threeofwhich werebreachedhly;General W hite. This entrance is

a 0 called Popham by the natives, inmemory of its capture in 1780 byCa tain Bruce, brother of th e trave er, who was an offi cer ofP0 ham

'

s

force. Theescaladingparty hshoes furnished them to prevent themslipping, and the cost of these shoesis said to have been deducted fromPo ham

’

s pay.

walior has always been th ough tone of themost impregnable fortressesin Upper India, and is superior tomost in an unfailing suppl of waterin tank s, cisterns, and we ls. Thereare several wells in the Urwah i out

work, and the water in th em is alwasweet and wh olesome, and is now t e

only good drinking water in the fort.The Suraj Kund, or Sun pool , wasbuilt about 275 to 300 A.D .

, and is theoldest in the fort. It is 350 ft . by 180ft . , with a variable depth . It is situ

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

RO UTE 5A . swm oa roar

ated about 500 ft . N.W . of the Sasbahu Temple. Th e Trikonis Tank isat the extreme N. point of the Fort ,near the Jayanti

-th ora, where are two

inscriptions , dated 1408 A .D. , and a

little earlier. The Johara tank is inthe N. of the Fort , in front of ShahJehan

’

s palace, and has its name fromthe Jchar

,or sacrifi ce of the Rajput

women there when A ltamsh took the

place. The Sas -bahu tank ,“mother

in-law and daugh ter-in-law ,

”

is near

thePadmanath temple, and is 250 ft .by 150 ft . , and 15 ft. to 18 ft. deep,but usually dry, as the water runs

through . The Gangola Tank is in th emiddle of the Fort , is 200 ft. sq. andalways has deep water on the S. side.

TheDh obi tank , at the 8. end of theFort, is the largest ofall , being 400 ft .by 200 ft. , but it is very shallow .

There are six Palaces, or mandirs,in theFort. (1) The Gujari, alreadymentioned.

(2) The Man Sing Palace (14861516, repaired in rt . on enteringtheFort, is on the ed e of the E. cliff.It was also called t e Ch itMandir,or painted palace, as the walls are

covered with a profusion of colouredtiles— bands of mosaique candelabra,Brahmin ducks, elephants, and peacocks— enamelled blue, green and gold,gi to this massive wall an unsur

charm and elegance. The tilesof this great windowless wall possessa brightness and delicacy of tint unblemished by the 10 centuries whichthey have weathered. Nowhere do Iremember any architectural designcapable of imparting similar ligh tnessto a simple massive wall. The secretof these enamelled tiles has not yetbeendiscovered (Rouselet ). It is twoStories high , with two stories ofunder

nd apartments , now uninhabitablethe bats. The E. face is 300 ft .

long and 100 ft. high , and has fivemassive round towers, surmounted byOpen-domed cupolas, and connected atto byabattlement ofsin larlybeautif o n latt ice-work . e S. face is160 long and 60 ft . h igh , with threeroundtowers connectedby a battlementoflattice-work . Th e N. and W . sidesare much ruined. The rooms are

arranged round two courts,— small butwith singularly beautiful decoration.

(3) ThePalace ofVikram is betweentheMan and Karen palaces, and con

nected with them by narrow lleries.

(4) The Kama Palace 8 ould be

called the KirtiMandir. It is longand narrow, and of two stories. It hasone room 43 ft . by 28 ft . , with a roof

supported by two rows ofpillars. Thereare smaller rooms on either side, andbath rooms below , with some fine

laster-work on the domed ceilings.

ose by to the S. is a hall (1516 A .D . )36 ft . sq .

, and the roof is a singular

H indu dome supported on eigh t curvedribs, ofwh ich four spring from the side

pillars and four from the angles of thenilding. Internally the to of thedome is a flat square form by theintersection of the ribs. The roof is

flat , and once had a pavilion on it .

(5) The J ehangire’

and (6) ShahJ ehanPalaces, at theN. end oftheFort,are of rubble plastered, and are quite

plain and ofno arch itectural interest .

There are 11 Hindu temples whichhavebeen desecrated by theMohammedans, but are still visited b H indus atstated times. These are(i.)t eGwale

’

pa,and (ii. ) the Chatur-bhuj , both alreadymentioned. (iii ) The J ayanti - thorawas destroyed by A ltamsh in 1232

A .D., but its position is shown by the

name given to themost N. point of the

Fort, where there is a deep rock -cut

well and some pillared arcades withinseri tions dated 1400 to 1419 A .D.

(iv. ) e Teli -Ka -Mandir (probabledate, 11th cent . , restored 1881 -83)is in the centre of theFort , overlook ingthe Urwah i. It is supposed to havebeen buil t by a Tell , or oilman. It is

60 ft . sq. ,with a portico projectin 11

ft. on the E. side. The sides 9 cps

upwards to 80 ft . , where the buildingends in a h orizontal ridge 30 ft . long.

It is the loftiest buildin in Gwalior.

The doorway is 35 ft. big and has a

figure of Garuda over the centre. It

was originally a Vishnavite Temple,but since the 15th cent . it has beenSh ivite. The wh ole of th is very massivebuilding is coveredwith soul tures.

Th e getaway in front of it was ormedout of fragments found in the Fort by

100 ROUTE 5A. s eas 'ro MANIKPUR

Major Keith . The sculpturedments set u round the temple werealso collected

)

by h im.

(v. vi. ) The Sac-bah t! or Sahasra

baha,“mother-ih -law

”

and“daugh terin-law,

”

or 1000-armed temples, are twotemples, a large and smaller one near

themiddle of the E. wall of the Fort .

There is a long inscription inside the

portico, with the date 1093 A .D .

There are figures of Vishnu over themain entrances. Thegreat temple, saidto have been built by RajahMah ipal,is 100 ft . long by 63 ft . broad. The

entrance is to theN. , and the adytumto the S. The tern le is now 70 ft .

high , but the top as been broken,andGeneral Cunningham th inks it wasonce 100ft. h igh . It stands on a ricblycarved plinth . The central hall is 31

ft . sq. It is crowded with fourmassive

pillars to aid in bearing the enormous

weigh t of its great pyramidal roof.

The construction of the roof is worthyof study. The temple was dedicatedin 1092 A .D . The small Sas -bahu isbuilt in theshapeofa cross, but consists

ofa single sto and is open on all four

sides. The bo

l

dl

y is 23 ft . sq., supported

on twelve pillars. The hnth is 6 ft .

h igh , and is decorated li e that of the

great temple. Th e pillars are round,with octagonal bases and bracketedcapitals. The lowerpart of th e shaftsin both temples are ornamented with

groups of female dancers. It is a fine

specimen of the ornate style of medimval H indu architecture.

(vii. ) The J ain Temple was dis

covered by Gen. Cunningham in 1844,and is a small building laced against

the E. wall of the ort , midwaybetween the Elephant Gate and Sas

bahu temples. It was built about 1108

A .D. The four oth er temples, SuryaDeva,Mala Deva, B honda Deva, andMaha Deva, are of less importance.

Th eRock Sculptures ofGwalior,th e same authority writes,

‘areunique

in Northern India, as well for th eirnumber as for their gigantic size.

Th ey are all excavated in the steepcliff

, immediately below the walls ofth e fortress. and aremost ofth em easilyaccessible. Th ere are small caves andniches in almost every place where the

India

face of the rock is tolerably smoothand steep, but the more prominentexcavations may be divided into five

principal grou wh ich I will designate

according to t eir ositions, as 1st, the

Urwah i group ; 2 the south -western

group 3d, the north -western grou

4th , the north -eastern group ; 5th , e

south -eastern grou Of these the

first and the last, w ich are by far the

most considerable, both in number andsize, are the only sculptures th at have

attracted travellers. Most of themweremutilated,by orderoftheEmperorBabar 1527 A .D . , only 60 years after

they weremade. Babarh imselfrecordsthe fact in h isMemoirs : They have

hewn the solid rock of th is Adwa ,and

scul tured out ofit idols of larger and

sma ler size. On the south part of it

18 a large idol, which may be about 40ft . in heigh t . Thesefigures areperfectlynaked, without even a rag to cover the

arts ofgeneration. Adwa is far fi '

oming amean place ; on the contrary it

18 extremely pleasant. The greatestfault consists in the idol figures all

about it . I directed theseidols to bede

stroyed.

’

The statues, however,werenot

destroyed, but only mutilated, and thebroken heads have since been repaired

by the Jains with coloured stucco.

“Th e Urwah i group is situated in thed iff of th e S. side of theUrwahivalley,

and consists of 22 princi al figures, all

of wh ich are naked. T e figures are

accompanied by six inscriptions, dated

Samwat 1497, 1510 1440A .D . and 1453,during the sway of the Turnara Rajah s.

The ch ief statues are, No. 17 , a colossal

figureofAdinath , the first J ain pontiff,who is known by the symbol of a bullon the pedestal. This has a long in

scription dated 1440 A .D. in the reign

ofDungar Sing, which has been trane

lated by RajendralalaMitra (see Beng.

A s. Soc. J our. 1862, p. Th e

largest figure of this group, and of all

the Gwalior scul tures, is the colossus

No. 20, wh ich abar says is 40 ft.

high . Its actual heigh t , h owever, is

57 ft . , or 6} times the length of the

foot,wh ich is just 9 ft . In front of th e

statue is a small figure with a squat

ting figure on each of its four faces.

The extremeW . figure of th is group.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

102

The first European wh o describes

these statues was Fath erMontserrat ,who visited Gwalior on h is way fromSurat to Delh i, in the reign of Akbar

(see A s. Researches, ix. p.

The Pri sons are in a small outworkon the W . side of the fort , above theB honda gate. Theyare called theNauchok i, nine cells, and are well ligh tedand well ventilated but must havebeen insufi

’

erabl close in the h otseason. H ere A bar confined his t e

hellions cousins, and Aurangzib h is sonMuhammad, and the sons ofDara andMurad.

122 m. Datia sta . A town ofinhabitants, the residence of the Chiefof the Datia state

,wh ich contains an

area of836 sq. m.

The town stands on a rocky heigh tsurrounded by a good stone wall. Itis full ofpicturesqueh ouses andpalaces.

The Raja’

s present residence standswith in the town surrounded by a prettygarden. To theW . ofthe town, beyondthe walls, is a very large palace of

great arch itectural beauty, now un

tenanted. A group of J ain temples,4 m. distant, are curious. Datia is a

place the loverofthepicturesqueshouldnot pass by.

138 m. J hansijunc. sta. (seep.

From Jhansi 7 m. Orchha sta . is theold capital of Orchha state, the oldestand h 1ghest in rank ofall theBundelaPrincipalities, and the only one ofthemthat was not held in subjection by thePeshwa. It is built on both banks ofthe Betws . There is an im osingfortress, connected by a wooden ridgewith the rest of the town, containingthe formerresidence oftheRajah , and apalace built for the accommodation of

the Emperor J ch angir.Tehri (Tekamgarh ), the present

capital , in theS.W . cornerof the state,is about 40 m. S. from Orch ha, withwh ich town and Baumari it is connectedby road.

13 m. Baron -Banger sta. , D.B . The

town is pictures

guely situated at the

cot ofa rocky r1 ge on the shoreofthe

scum 5A . AGRL 'noMsrmrrna

40 m.Man sta. , D.B . (poMan Ranipur is, next to J ansi, the

principal commercial town of J h ansidistrict. Its buildings are remarkablyictures que, in the style peculiar toundelkund, with deep eaves between

thefirst and second stories, and banbalconies ofunusual beauty. Trees a

many of the streets,and handsome

tem les ornament the town th e princi being that of the Jains with twoso id spires and several cupolas. An

old br1ck built Fort with bastionsadjoins the bazaar and contains th e

public offices . The town is of quitemodern commercial importance, havingrisen from theposition ofa small agricultural village since 1785 , through th einflux ofmerchants from Chhatarpur.

Kharwa cloth is manufac tured and

exported to all parts of India.

67 m. J aitpur sta. The town wasformerly the capital of a native state.

It is picture usly situated onthebank sof th e Bela

a

Tal . Probably founded inthe early part of the 18th century byJagatraj son of the famous BundalaRaja, Chatar Sal, wh o built the largefort still in existence. The town

resembles a collection of separate vil .

lages, full 2 m. in length , but verynarrow. andsome temple two fort-1.one of wh ich could contain almost

Barwa-SaugarLake,an artifi cial sheet ofwater formed by a masonry embankment 2m. in length , constructed byUdit Sing, Raja of Orchha, between

1705 -37, containing two cr wooded

islets. Below, a tract ofIan extendingover4m., is th ick lyplantedwith mangoand other trees, often of t age andenormous size. N.W . oft e town rises

a fine old castle also built by Udit Sing,but now uninhabited. 3 111 . W . stand

the remains of an old Chandel templebuilt of solid blocks of stone, carved

with the figures of H indu gods, muchdefaced by Mussulmans. The town

consists of three divisions se ted bystretches of cultivated lan and the

houses are prettily embosomed in foli

age.

RoU'rE 5A .

up with solid masonry by the Chandelrulers ofMah oba in th e 9th centuryextends for 5 m. in circumference, butis now very shallow, the embankmenthaving burst in 1869.

86m. Kabobs. sta . D .E. Th e town,founded about 800 A .D. b Raja Chandra; Varmma, stands on t e side of theMedan SaugarLake, constructed by theChandel Rajas, and consists of three

distinct portions— oneN. ofthe central

h ill known as the Old Fort ; one on

the top of the hill known as the InnerFort ; and one to theS. knownasDariba.

Architectural antiquitiesoftheChandelriod abound through out the neigh

urh ood. The Ram Kundmark s the

placewh ere Chandra Varmma, founderof th e dynasty, died ; and the tankis believed to be a reservoir into wh ich

the united waters of all holy streams

pour th emselves. TheFort,now almost

entirely in ruins, commands a beautifulView over th e h il ls and lakes. Th etemple ofMunia Devi, partially reno

rated, h as in front of its entrance a

stonepillarinscribed toMadana Varmma. Of the lakes, confined by magnificent masonry dams, two have eatlysilted up ; but th e Kirat and adanSangars, works of the 11th and 12th

centuries, still remain deep and clearsheets of water. The shores of thelakes and th e islands in their midstare th ickly coveredwith ruined temples,monstrous figures carved out of the

solid rock , pillars, broken sculpture,and other early remains, wh ile on the

hills above stand the summer-housesof th e earl Rajas, and shrines over

hang the ge. Relics of J ain templesand Buddhist inscriptions also occur.

The existing monuments ofMoh ammedan date include the tomb ofJalhanKhan, constructed from the fragmentsofa Shivite temple, and a mosque alsobuilt ofChandel materials.

Th e modern town contains a tahsil,

police-station, post offi ce, school, dis

pensary, and D.B .

MAH OBA 103

162 m. Karwi sta . (pop. In

1805 th e town formed a cantonment forBritish troo s

,and in 1829 it became

the principa residence of the Peshwa’

s

[34 m. S. ofMahoba is the ancient representative, wh o lived in almostdecayed town of Kh ajurah o, formerly regal state, built several beautiful temhe capital of the old province of

Jah oti.ples andwells. Numerous traders from

H iouenTh sangmentions it in theDeccanwerethusattracted toKarwi.

the 7th century ; andGeneral Cunningham attributes to the same date a

sin le

pillared tem ls called Ganthai,

an a h moun wh ich probablyconceals t e ruins of a Buddhist monaste Upwards of 20 temples still

stan in the town, and the ruins ofatleast as many more bearwitness to itsformergreatness. In onealoneGeneral

Cunningham counted over 800 statues

half life-size, and 8 sculptured ele

phants of like proportions. Th e innershrine of this edifi ce constituted in itselfa splendid temple, andwas crowdedwith figures. Captain Burt noticed

seven largetemples ofexquisitecarving,whosemechanical construction adapted

them to last for almost indefinite

periods. Most or all of these noble

buildings and th e inscriptions found

in th e neighbourh ood must be referredto the Chandel dynas who ruled at

Khajuraho ap arentl rom 870 to 1200

A .D . Them ern vifiage contains onlyabout 160 houses ]

119 m. Banda sta. BB is a

municipal town and theadministrativehead nat ters of Bands district . It

stan s on an undulatin plain 1 m.

E. ofrigh t bank of th e en river.

The modern town derived its

portance from the residence of th e

Nawab ofBands , and from its positionas a cotton mart . After the removaloftheNawab in 1858 owing to h is disloyalty during theMutiny, the tow n

began to decline, wh ile the growth of

Rajapur as a rival cotton emporiumhas largely deprived Bands of th is

trade. The town is straggling and illbuilt

,but with clean W ide streets.

It contains 66 mosques, 161 H indutemples, and 5 J ain temples, some of

wh ich possess fair arch itectural merit.Cantonments 1 m. from the town on

the Fatehpur Road.

104 h ours 6. BOMBAY ro DELH I India

During theMutinyNara an Rao, after formiles around by all the inhabitants,themurder at Banda of r. Cockerell, Christian and otherwise.

Joint-Magistrate ofKarwi, assumed the H ere area R. C . convent fororphans,

government, and retained h is independ and a school for orphan boys.

ence for eigh t months amid the subse

quent anarchy. The accumulations ofhis famil constituted thegreat treasure

afterwar 8 so famous as the“Kirwee

and BandaPrizeMoney.

”It was kept

in a vault of the Bet a, a large buildingforming the palace of Narayan Rae

’

s

family. Since theMutin the pro

v

s

iperity ofKarwi h as gradual y declined.

here is a magnifi cent temple and tankwith masonry well attached, known as

theGanesh Bagh , built by Vinayak Rao

in 1837 . There are five mosques and

as many H indu temples.181 m.Manikpur '

unc. sta ofE. I.

Rly. and Jubbulpore ly. (see p.

ROUTE 6

BOMBAY ro DELH I rns ouon Baaona ,

AHMEDABAD, Asmnns , BANDIKUI,AND Jarrons .

Rail. 890 111. Mail trains 40} hrs. in

transit. Through fares approximately,fi rst class 56 rs. , second class 28 rs. ,

and servants 9 rs. For some railwayrules see Rte. 1 , 26. The route

is throughout by t e B . B . and C . I.

Rly. There is a change of uge at

Ahmedabad. The stations in mbayare Colaba ,

1 Church Gate Stat ion, and

Grant Road, whereample time is given.

9 m. H akim sta. , where th e rly.

crosses a causeway connecting the

island of Bombay with the island of

Salsette. The country is flat, studded

with villages and cocoa-nut groves.

The Scottish Orphanage, established

here in 1859 , is the only institution of

the k ind in the Bombay Presidency.

10m. Bandara sta.,l . , on sea-sh ore, a

favouriteresidence for rsons who have

daily business in Bom a it is nearlysurrounded by water, an is cooler thanBombay. Several chapels built by thePortuguese still exist h ere, notablythat ofMount Mary, held in respect1 It is advisable to ca rt

terminus to ensure gett ing pmthe 00h“

18 m. Goregaon sta. About 1 milefrom the sta. are the famous H inducaves of J ogeshwar. See Sigh ts in

the vicinity ofBombay, No. p. 25 .

22m. Borivli sta. is near the C aves

ofMontpezir (see p. 22) and the ruins

of a J esuit monastery of the 16th

century. The Caves ofKanheri (see p.23) are only 5 m. distant, but aremore

easily visited from the Talsi Lake.

22 m. Bhayandar sta., on th e S.

ed ofthe Bassein creek ,wh ich divides

Safiette from the mainland. Personswho have made arran ments to visit

the ruins ofBassein by at orby steamlaunch , embark at th is station. Therail

way here crosses the riverby a very longbridge. On therigh t, andforsomemilesup the stream, the scenery is mostbeautiful— the Kamandrug H ills and

Ghodbandar, with the quiet water be

tweenthem,forminga tropical landscapeas charming as can be seen in Indie.

l

33 m. Bassein Road sta.,no: D.E.

The ruins are distant about 5 m.

The first notice we have of Basseinis in 1532, when thePortugueseravagedthe nei hbourhood and burned all thetowns tween it and Chikli Tara

pur. In 1534 they took Daman, whichthey still hold

,and obliged Sultan

BahadurofGuzerat, thenhard reseedbyth eEmperorH uma n

, to c eBassein

in pe etuity. or more than 200

years assein remained in the h ands ofthe Portuguese, and during th is timeit rose to such rosperity that the citycame to be ca led the Court of the

North , and its nobleswereproverbial fortheir wealth and magnificence. W ith

plentiful supplies of both timber and

stone, Bassein was adorned by mannoble buildings, including a cathed5 convents, 13 churches, and an lumfor orphans. The dwellings o theH idalgos, oraristocracy, who alonewereallowed to live with in the city walls,

1 Write beforehand to station omaster for

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

norms 6. AHMEDABAD

heigh t in the earthquake of l 6th

June 1819 . The are now 43 ft . high .

‘

Ona marble slalr above the centre of

thethree kiblahs or pra er-niches are

these words in Arabic h igh and

far-stretchingmosquewas raised by theslavewho trusts in the mercy of God,thecom

'

onate, thealone to bewor

shipped. Th e Koran says, Trulymosques belong to God, worshi no one

elsewith H im. The slavew o trusts

inGod, the Aider, Nasiru’

d dunya va

dinAbu’lFath AhmadShah , son ofMa

hammadSh ah , son ofSul tanMuzafl'

ar.

Through the E. gate is the Tomb ofAhmad Shah (repairedThis domed building has a portico to

theS. with 18 pillars. The windowsare of rforated stonework . Thecentral c amber is 36 ft . square. It is

pavedwith marble of different colours.

The centre cenotaph is that of AhmadShah , the one to theW . is that of hisson,Muhammad Shah , and that on theE. is that of his ndaou, Kutb Shah .

50yds. to the across the street arethe 'rombs of th e queens of Ahmad

Shah Th e h ouses are so close thatthey uite shut out the facade of thememo cum,

wh ich is raised on a platform. In the facade are 13 hi blyornamented carved recesses. Inside isa rectangular court , with a corridorrunningroundit . In thecentreareeigh tlargecenotaphs and several small ones.

The centre tombstone is of wh itemarble, finely carved, and is the tombOfMoghlai Bibi. It is of black stone01

‘ marble, inlaid with white. Th isbuilding is one of the finest in Ahmedsbad, but much out of repair.

Bani Sipari’

aMosque andTomb (4)are almost the most beautiful monuments in Ahmedabad. Rani Sipariwasoneof thewives ofMahmud Bigadah ,

and mother of Prince Ahmad. H er

mosque and tomb were com leted in1514.

“They are the first 0 a series

Ofbuildingsmoredelicately ornate thanany that preceded.

” 2 Them no hasfi ninarets, about 50 ft. high , aving1 In 1781 Mr. Forbes, in h is OrientalMemoirs

, said of them :“A circular fligh t of

mp1! led to a gallery near th e top of each .

A little force at the arch of th e uppergallery“Meboth minarets sh ake, though theroofoftheImmuneremained unmoved.

aammonia.

ndia]

113

four compartments taperin up to thetop. The roof is supporte by a rowof 6 cou led pillars with single ones

beh ind. eroza, or tomb, is 36 ft . sq.

Dastur Khan’sMosque built in

1486 by one of Mahmu Bigadah’s

ministers. Remark the 0 on stone

screen-work that shuts in t e cloister

round the courtyard. In the gatewaythemarks of shot may be seen. A few

yds . to theE. ofDasturKh an’

sMosque18 A sa B he

’

Z'

sMound, the site of the

fort of the Bh il chief, from wh om the

town ofAsaval had its name.

A little to theN.E. of the JamalpurGate is Haibat Khan

’s Mosque

wh ich is interestingas one oftheearliest

attempts to combineMohammedan and

H indu elements. H aibat Khan was

one of the noblemen of Ahmad Shah’

s

court . Themosque is very lain. The

front wall is pierced by t ree small

pointed arches some distance a art .

The minarets are small and wit out

ornament , and rise like chimneys fromthe roof. The central dome, of H induworkmanshi and of great beauty, is

barely raise above the others. Th e

illara, taken from different teml les,

play every variety ofrich ornament .Except for the form of its dome, theouterporch would suit a H indu temple.

The Tin Darwazah , or Three Gate

ways built by Sultan Ahmad I. ,

is of stone richly carved. It crosses

themain street a little to the N. of the

J umma Musjid. The terrace on the

top of the gateway was formerly roofed

over, but was thrown open in 1877 .

Th is gateway led into the outer court

of the Bhadr, known as the Royal

Square, and was surrounded, in 1638,b two rows of alm trees and tamarinds

A . deMan elslo’

s Voyages, 1662, p.

Facing the BhadrGate is amunici al garden. N. of the garden is the

rgb School , and to th eW . the H emabhai Institute, with a good library and

newspapers and periodicals. Near it is

theMosque ofMalik Sha’ban, with an

inscription that says it was built in thereign ofKuth

-ud-dm,by Sh

’

aban, son of’Imadu’

l mulk , in 856 A .H .= 1452 A .D .

The Bh adr renounced Bhad

der) an ancient enc osure or citadel .

built by Ahmad Shah , 1411 , and named

I

114 nourn 6. some“ro DELH I

after the dess Bhadra, apropitious

form of ali, is occupied y public

offi ces. In the E. face is the Palace,built by

’Azam Khan the 23d

Viceroy (1635 who was called

Udai,“the white ant

,

”

from his love

of building. It is now the jail. Over

the entrance is a Persian chronogram,

giving the date 1636 A .D. The N.

entrance to the B hadr is very handsome.

The gate is 18 ft . high , under an arch

way, opening into a regular octagonal

hall of great elegance, containin in

the upper story, an arched ga cry,and having in front a low wall of

open-cut stone, each gallery surmounted

by a cupola. Underneath this h all is

a fine vaulted chamber,entered by a

fligh t of steps at each side, with a reser

voirand fountain in themiddle. Close

to the J ail is a temple to Bhadra KaliMata. At the N.E. corner is Sidi Say

yad’sMosque which forms

of thewall it is now theMumlut ar’

s

offi ce.

'lhvo of its windows are fi lled

delicate stone trace of tree

stems andbranchesbeautif ywrough t .Mr. Fergusson, who gives an illustra

tion of one of the windows, says in h isH ist. of A rch . It would be diflicultto excel the skill with which the vege

table forms are conventionalised justto the extent required for the pu se.

The equal spacin also of the an jectby the three or inery trees and four

palms takes it out of th e category of

irect imitation of nature, and rendersit sufliciently structural for its situa

tion ; but rhaps the greatest sk ill isshown in the

“;evenmanner inwh ich the

ttern is spread overth ewhole surface.

here are some exquisite specimens of

tracery inprecious marbles at Agra andDelhi, but none quite e ual to th is.

”

In the S.W . corner o the Bhadr is

Ahmad Shah 'sMosque built byh im in 1414, 20years before the JummaMusjid, being perhaps the oldest here.

It is said to havebeen used as the k ing’

s

private chapel . Left on advancing towards themosque,was once the Ganj-iBhahid or store ofMartyrs, where wereburied the Moslems k illed in stormlng th e town. The facade is almostbare of ornament

, with ill-designedpointed arches . The two minarets are

India

evidently unfinished. The mimbar, orulpit , is adorned with what looks like

aurel leaves. The architecture shows

the first attempts at building aMoslemedifi ce in what had been a H indu city.

The pillars still hearH indu figures and

emblems. TheN.porch , leading into the

latticedladies’

Ellery, isH induth rough

out , andmay part ofa temple.

W . of this mosque is theMani]: Burj(11) or Ruby Bastion, buil t round the

foundation-stoneofthecity. Th ereisa

small round tomb in the yard near thecollector

’

s offi ce, wh ich is said to be that

ofIbrah imKuli Khan, 9. Persianwarrior.Shah Wajihu-din

’

s Tomb built

by SaiyadMurtaza Khan Bokhari, 11thViceroy, 1606

-1609, is a very beautiful

monument .Sam i!

’Alam'

s Mosque built

about 1420 by Abubak rHusaini. The

inner details are as rich as H indu art

could make them. S. of th is 170

yds. is

The RaniMusjid (Queen'sMosque)

(15) inMirzapur, a few yds. to the S.

of the D.B . , built probably in Sultan

Ahmad I.’

s reign. There are two

minarets, unfinished orpartly des troyedby an earthquake, and now only 33 R.

h igh . Th e roof has three domes, andis s‘

lil) rted by 36 plain pillars . To

the of the mosque is the roza or

tomb (restored). Under th e dome are

two cenotaphs of wh ite marble ; thecentral one is the tomb of Rupavati, a

princess ofDhar. It is in goodpreserva

tion, while that on the W . side is

much injured both are ornamentedwith the chain and censor, a H indu

device. Mr. Fergusson has given a

plan of th is mosque, and says,

“Theower part of the minaret is of ure

H indu architecture. W e can fo ow

the progress of the development of thisform from the first rude attempt in theJummaMusjid, through all its stagesto the exquisite patterns of theQueen

’

s

Mosque atMirzapur.”The Mosque of snail: Hasan l u

hammad Ohiah ti in Sha hpur (16) is intheN.W . angle ofthe city, not far fromthe Sabarmati, 1565 A .D. Theminaretsare unfi nished.

“The tracery in the

niches of theirbases is perhaps superior

to any otherin the city.

”On the S. or

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

ROUTE 6 . Excunsron ro J ODH PUR

rounded by a wall, approached by a

fligh t of steps, and beautifully orna

mented. S.E. of th is are other templeson h igher ground overlooking therang

. Th eview ismagnificent . Theseare e buildin s the traveller has seenin ascending t e hill. S. of the firsttem Is is theAg ni Kand, a tank famousin indu mythology. On the bank isa marble image of Pramar with h isbow , and near h im three large stone

buffaloes . Th is figure is superior instyle and treatment to most ; and thesame may be said of the statues in

other temples around the H ill of Abu,

s cial ly of th ebrass figureat Gaumukha laded to below. TheAch ilghargroupis perba as attractive as the morerenown t em les at Dilwarra, thoughnot comparab c in size or finish ; butthe absence of modern work, and an

air of antiquity, solidity, and repose,make t h em worthy ofall admiration.

AroundMount Abu in the lain and

on th e h il lside aremany temp es, somevery beautiful, and all in charmingspots but th e travellerwho wishes tovisit th em must have plenty of leisureandbe a good walker, andmust alwaysbe accompanied by a guide. It isvery dangerous to leave a beaten pathon th e sides of Abu without a rson

who knows the country intimate y.

Gaumukh ,a beautifull situated

temple 500 ft. down theS. slope, and3 m. from the church . Observe the

brass figure facing the temple.

Rish i Krishna ,at the foot ofthe h ill,

S.E. side, 14 m. from the Civil Station,

is easily visited from Abu Road railway station.

Gautama , on S. side of the h ill, W .

of Gaumukh 5 m. from station.

Lovely view.

Devangan, in the plain, S.W 2 m.

S. ofA nadra, B .D. ]

528 m. Karwar Railway junc. sta.

[Excursion to J odhpur.From this point the J odhpur

-Bikanir

Railwaybranches E. to 44m. Lunijunc.

sta. (fromwhich a line diverges W . to

th e sa lt-work s at Pachbadra, distant

60 m. and continues in N. direction).Many miles before reach ing J odhpur

121

the fort can be distinguished risingabruptly out of the bare lain.

64 m. JODHPUR sta .B. the capi

tal oftheRajput stateofthat name, andofthe country known asMarwarCarea,is the residence of the Ch ief and ofa

Political Agent, to whom it is necessaryto bring an introduction ask ing for

permission to see the place.

The State of J odhpur orMarwarcovers an area of sq. m. with a

pop. of The City was builtby Rao J odha in 1459 , and from that

time has been the seat of government .It stands on the S. extremity of a

rocky range of sandstone hills run

ning E. and W . , and is surrounded bya strong wall nearly 6 m. in extent,with seven gates, each bearing the

name of th e town to wh ich it leads.

Some of the h ouses and temples in thecityareofstonerich lycarved. Amonerstthe most im rtant buildings are t e

Temple in t e Dhan Mundi (wheatmarket) and the TalatiMal , an old

palace now used as the Darbar H igh

School .

The Port stands up boldly some 300ft. above the city and th e plain, and

presents amagnifi cent appearance. The

rock is on every side scar

ped

, butes

apecially at the N. end, w ere the

p ace is built on the edge of a per

pendicular cliff at least 120 ft . high .

Strong walls and numerous round and

square towers encircle the crest of the

hill. A modern engineered road windsup theneighbouring slopes to amassive

gateway. H ere is the first of 7 barriersthrown across the zigzag ascent

,having

immense portals with separate guards

in each . On the wall of the last are

represented the hands of the 15 wives

of one of the rajas who underwent

sati at his death .

At the top oftherock are the h igh lyinteresting Old Palaces. There are

courtyardswithincourtyards, all solidlybuil t andsurroundedby latticewindows

of the most delicate and beautiful

designs. H ere in the Treasury are theMaharaja’

s jewels, a wonderful collec

tion, and well worth seeing. Some ofthe pearls, emeralds, and diamonds areunusually fine. The silver trappings

for elephants and horses should also

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

l 24 some 6 .

mental facades. Ajmere was foundedin 145 A .D . by Ajaypal, one of the

Chohan kin

g.

In 1024, ahmud ofGhazni, on his

way to Somnath in Kattywar, sackedAjmere, and Akbar conquered it in1556.

The memory of the Ajmere Ch ish tiwas held in particular respect by the

great Akbar, wh o was accustomed to

pay a yearly visit to h is shrine.

Several of thesepilgrimages weremadeon foot from A a and other places.

The road from ateh ur-Sikri to Ajmere was so much use by Akbar that

he caused Kos Minars (masonrycolumns answering to our milestones)to be erected along the route. Several

of these miners can still be seen fromthe railway.

Thomas Coryat , in the 17th century,walked from J erusalem to Ajmere, andspent £2 : 108. on the journey. SirThomas Roe, the ambassador of J amesI. , gives an account of the city in

1615-16. In about 1720 Ajit SingRathore seized the city, wh ich was

recovered by Muhammad Shah , and

made overby him to Abhay Sing. H is

son Ram Sing called in theMarath as,under J

sly ipa Sindia, who, however,

was mur er and in 1756 Ajmerewasmade over to Bijai Sin cousin of

Ram Sing. In 1787 t e RathoresrecoveredAjmere, but after theirdefeatat Patan had to surrender it again to

Sindia. On the 25th of J une 1818Daulat Rao Sindia made it over bytreaty to the English .

The Residency is on the brink of

the beautiful artifi cial lake called the

Ana Sausar, constructed by RajaAna in the middle of the 11th cent .

It forms the source of the river Laoni,which finally unites with the Delta of

the Indus. The Emperor Shah Jehanerected a noble range of marble pavilions on the embankment . They werelong the only public offi ces in Ajmere,but the chief one is now used as theofiicial residence of the Commissioner.

The central and most beautiful pavilion, in wh ich the em ror often re

posed

,has been restor at great cost

he walk along the band or embank

BOMBAY TO DELH I India

ment (which is ublic) is very de

ligh tful, quite t e pleasantest sigh t

in Ajmere. If the flying foxes still

hang in the trees, they are worth oh

serving. They are sure not to be

far 03 even if they have changed their

quarters, as the love the vicinity of

water. To the is thebroad expanse

of the lake, and to the S. under the

band is thePublic Gwrden. Th e city is

supplied with water from th e new

lake, the Fay Sangar, formed by an

embankment thrown across th e valley5m. higherup. Thewaterof the springknown as theDigi, on theNusseerabadside ofAjmere, is said to possess a high8 cifi c svity, owing to th e stratum0 lead tfi

r

rough which it passes.

Akbar’

s Palace is outside th e city

proper, to the E. , not far from the

railwa station. The entrance gate is

very e. It was an arsenal , and is

now used as a teh sil .

Themosque called theArbai-dinuka

jhompra, or The H ut of two and a

halfDays,”

is just outside the city gatebeyond the Dargah . It was buil t byAltamsh or Kutbu-din about 1200

from the materials of a J ain temple.

The name is derived from a tradition

that it was built supernaturally in two

and a halfdays. Modern archaeologists

assert that it was probably erected b

the same arch itect who built the Kutmo ue near Delh i. It is uncertain

whet erauv of theundoubtedly H indu

pillars ofwhich themosque is built arenow in situ. Their ornamentation is

yard of the Kutb. I

screen rises to a h

Nothing can exceed

wh ich the Kufi c and

tions are interwoven

purely arch itectural

the constructive lines

nou n 6.

reaches the summit in 2 m. The traroller canride or be carried in a chair,orjhampan. The tri will occupythree hours. Theview rom the top istheprincipal reward for the trouble.

One of the principal points of interest inAjmere is theDargah . It is ven.

crated alike by Mohammedans andHindus,andderives its extreme sanctit

ofKhwaja

Aftab-i-Mq -i-H ind. H e died in 633an.=l235 A .D . H e was the son of

The Arbai-din-ka-jhompraMosque at Ajmera.

Kllt‘ajah’

Usman, andwas called Chisti

froma quarter in the city of SanjarlnPcrsia. H e had one into a chapeltopray, and his re ative, the Chish tiflunFateh ur-Sikri, coming to see himOaths sixt day found him dead. Offlinfamil ofsaints andcourtiers,FaridMill is urled at Pak -

patan, in thePiniab ; Nizam-ud-din, Kutb-ud-din,

mdNasir-udodin at crucerDelhi ; Shaikhlim at Fatehpur Sikri near Agra ;md Bandah Nawaz at Kalbargah inheDeccan.'

Woollen socks have to be put over

A JMBRE 125

the shoes on entering the Dargah .

Passing through a loftygateway, ecourt

ard is entered in which are two verylarge iron caldrons, one twice the size

of the other. These are known as the

great and the littledeg. A rich pilgrimmay offer, at theannual fairandpilgrimage, to give a degfeast. The smallest

sum with which to buy rice, butter,sugar, almonds, raisins, and spice to

fi l l the large deg is 1000 t e.,and be

sides this he has to pay about 200 rs.

as presents and offerings at the shrine.

After this(gifintic rice pudding has

been cooke y means of a furnace

beneath , it is scrambled for, boilinghot . Eigh t earthen pots of the mixture are first set a art for the foreign

pilgrims, and it is t e hereditary priviege of the people of Indrakot, and of

themenials oftheDar h , to empty thecaldron oftheremain erofits contents.

All the men who take part in th ishereditary privilege are swaddled up tothe eyes in cloth s, to avoid the effect

ofthescaldingfluid. When thecaldronis nearly empty, all the Indrakotis

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

ROUTE 6. BOMBAY TO DELHI

70 acres in extent , and was laid out

by Dr. de Fabeck at a cost of about

rs. Attached to it are a fine

menagerie and aviary. These gardens

cost theMaharaja rs. a year to

keep up. There is a fine status orLordMayo.

In the centre of the garden is the

Albert H all, a sumptuousmodern building, ofwhich the Prince ofW ales laid

the first stone in 1876. It contains alarge Darbar H all and a beautiful

museum,— an Oriental South Kensingo

ton, suitably housed. The collections

of modern works of art and industry,and also ofantiquities, from every part

of India, are very complete and h igh lyinteresting. There is a fine view fromthe tap.

The Mayo Hospital .- Beyond the

gardens is the hospital, ofrough whitestone, with a clock tower. It can

house 150 patients.

The Church is on the wa to the

Railway Station, a little to t eW . of

the road.

At the School of Art , a handsomemodern building, arefirst

-rate technical

and industrial classes for teach ing and

reviving various branches of native

artistic industry, such as metal and

enamel-work , embroidery, weaving, etc.TheMaharaja’

s College— In Jey

porepublic instructionhasmadegreaterregress than in the other states of

Rajputana. The College, opened in

1844 with about 40 upila, had in

1889 and 1890 a dailyglass attendanceof 1000, and compares favourably withsimilar institutions of the kind in

British India ; it is affi liated to the

Calcutta University.

Th e chattris, or cenotaphs, of theMaha rajas at Gethur are just outside theN.E. city wall . They are in well

planted ardens, the trees of wh ich

are full 0 solemn-looking, gray-headedmonkeys. The first seen on enteringis Jey Sing

’

s Chattri, the finest of all.It is a dome of the purest wh itemarble,supported on 20 beautifully carved

pillars rising from a substantial square

platform, and profusel ornamentedW ith scenes from H in u mythology.

S:E. of Jey Sing

’s Chattri is that of

h is sonMadhu Sing, a dome rising from

the octagon on arches reversed. The

only ornaments are carved peacocks.

W . of this chattri is that of PratapSing, his son, completed by the laterulerRam Sin It is ofwhite marblebrough t from lwar.

The waterwhich supplies Jc pore isdrawn from a stream on the ofthe

city , running into the Chambal . The

pumping-station and high -level reser

i

é

cirs are nearly opposite th e C h andpol

ate.

[An expedition for the sake of the

view may be made by eleph ant or on

foot to the Shrine of the Sun God at

Ga lta , an uninterestingbuilding 350ft.

above the plain, and built on a juttingrocky platform,

on the summi t of a

range ofh ills, about I} m. to th e E. of

Jey re, ofwhich by far the finest view

is o tained from this point . Thewaythe sandy desert is encroach ing on the

town should benoticed. It h as caused

one large suburb to bedeserted, and the

houses and gardens are going to rain

Thesand has evendriftedup theravines

of the hills. This evil ough t to bearrested at any cost by plant ing.)[The excursion to Amber (5 the

capital ofJc ore till 1728, now minedand deserts is most interesting, andwill occupy a whole day. It is uccea

sary to obtain m ission to visit Amberfrom theResi ent ofJeypore, and thatoffi cial, as a rule, kindly ask s the Stateto sendan elephant tomeet th etravellerat Chandrabagh , where th eh ill becomestoo stee for a carriage.

On t 0 left of the road a line of

fortified h ills are assed ; these culminate in the great art 400 feet above the

old palace, connected with it and built

for its defence. The picturesque situa

tion ofAmber at themouth ofa rockymountain gorge, in which nestles a

lovely lake, has attracted th e admiration ofall travellers, includingmont and H eber. The namementionedby Ptolemy. It was

by theMinas, and still flourishing in

967. In 1037 it was taken by the

Re'

put , who held it till it was deserted.’l‘he old Palace, begun byMan Sing,1600, rank s arch itecturally second ony

to Gwalior, though instead of standingon a rocky pedestal it lies low on the

RO UTE 6.

slope of the h ill, picturesquely rooted

onits rocky base and reflected in the

likebelow. The interiorarrangementsareexcellent. The suites ofrooms formristas opening upon strikingviews. Itisa grand pile, and though it lacks thefres h and vigorous stamp of H indu

ori ality wh ich characterises earlier

h the ornamentation and technical etails are free from feeble

ness.

Entered by a fine staircase from a

great courtyard is the Diwan-i-’Am,

a noble specimen of Rajput art , with

double row of columns supporting a

massive entablature, above which are

latticed galleries. Its magnifi cenceattracted the envy of Jch angir, and

Mimi Raja, to save h is great workfrom destruction, covered it withstucco.

To the righ t oftheDiwan-i-

’

Am steps

is a small temple where a goat , ofi'

eredeach morning to Kali, preserves the

tradition of a daily human sacrifi ce onthesame spot in pre

-historic times.On a h igher terrace are the Raja

’

s

own apartments, entered by a splendid

gateway covered with mosaics and

sculptures , erected by Jey Sing, over

which is the SuhagMandir, a small

pavilion with beautiful latticeddows. Through th is are furth ermarvels,— a green and cool garden withfountains , surrounded by palaces,brilliant with mosaics and marbles.

That on the l. is the J eyMeander, or

Hall of Victory, adorned by anels ofalabas ter

,some ofwh ich are in aid, and

others are adornedwith flowers in altorelievo

, the roof littering with themirrored and spang ed work forwhich

Jeypore is renowned. Near the J eyHandir a narrow passage leads down to

the bath ing-rooms , all of

fale creamy

marble. Above is the as Mandir,“which literally glows with brigh t and

tendercolours and exquisiteinlaidwork ,and look s through arches of carved ala

baster and clusters of slender columns

SANGANER 129

chattris outside the wall are those of

ch ieftains who died before Jey Sing II.

In the palace to the righ t is a chamberon th e rt. wall of wh ich are views of

Ujjain,and on the 1. views of Benares

and Muttra. Th at opposite the Jc

Mandiris called theSukhNawas, “H a I

ofPleasure.

”In thecentreofthenarrow

dark room is an 0 suingfora stream toflow down into t e groove or channel

wh ich runs through thehall . Thedoors

are of sandal -wood inlaid with ivory.

A steep path leads down to the

Kh iri Gate, beyond which , as it leads

to one of th e forts, Kantalgarh , no one

is allowed to pass with out an order.

A t the bottom of th is path there is a

temple to Th akurji, or Vishnu. It is

wh ite and beautifully carved, and justoutside the door is a lovely square

pavilion exquisitelycarved with figures

representing Kris ina sporting with

the Gopis.

Amber formerly containedmany finetemples, but most are now in ruins.]

[Sanganer is about 7 m. to the

S. of Jeypore, a nice drive past th e

Residency and theMoti Dongari, andgarden where the Indian princes wh o

are visitors to the Maharaja sometimes encamp.

A gateway leads into this town

through two ruined Tirpoliyas, or triple

gateways of three stories, about 66 ft .

high . The second story has an open

stone verandah , supported by four

pillars on either side of the archway.

Ascending the street is a small templeon th ert . sacred toKalyanj t orKrishna ,

the door of wh ich is handsomelycarved. Opposite is a temple to Sitaram, with a pillar, 6 ft. h igh , of whiteMakranamarblecalled a Kirth iKambh .

On the four sides are Brahma with fourfaces, Vishnu, cross

-legged, holding the

lotus, Shiva holding a cobra in h is rt.

hand and a trident in his l. , with Par

bati beside him and Ganesh .

H igh er up, on the l . , are the ruinsupon th e sleeping lake and th e silent of the O ld Pa lace, wh ich must once

mountains. h ave been a vast building. N. by E.

At theN.E. angle is a balcony whence from this is the Sanganer Templewiththere is a fine view over the town Of three courts. Visitors are not allowed

Amber and the plain beyond to the to enter the th ird. There are several

hill which overlooks Ramgarh . Some other old shrines in the place.]K

132 ROUTE 6. BOMBAY ro DELH I

coined their own money, and their

currency was called Gokul Sikkah . Itis a place of considerable trade, partienlarly in iron and salt. The Town H all

is handsome, as are the J ain Temples ,close to the town.

The rly. passes W . of theKutbMinarand of the tombs and ruins S. ofDelh i,a line of h ills shuttino them out fromview, and when near the city turns E.

(H ere the Delh i, Umballa, and KalkaRly. turnsN. ) The line enters throughthe W . wall, meeting in a fine central

station the E. I. Rly. and N. W . Rlywhich enter the city over the Jumnariver bridge from the E.

890 m. DELHI junc. D.B .

inhab. )

the people and Nad ir replied ,

‘

l

H ISTORY '

Emperor (if India must never,

afif

Little is definitely known of the vain,”

and commanded that the f

:

h istory of Delh i prior to theMoham sacre should cease.

.

A vast multimedan conquest in 1193 A .D . It is of persons h ad perished, however,said that a city called Indrapras th a wh en Nadir left Delhi h e carried

was founded by the early Aryan im h im immense treasures, estimate x

migrants, under a king called Yudhis from 30 to 70 millions sterlingf

x

thira,and th at the fort of Indrapat, famous Peacock Throne, and the l ,

also called Purana Killa, or“O ld i-Nur, diamond.

Fort ,”

stands on the site of th is city .

The extensivemine lying S. ofmodernDelh i, and covering an area of about45 sq. m are the remains of seven

forts or cities, buil t by different kings.The oldest are the H indu forts ofLalkot , built by Anang Pal in 1052 A .D .

and Kai Pithora, built by the king of

that name, about 1180 A .D. The ruinsof these two forts, and the iron pillarat th e Kutb, are the only remains of

the H indu period. The fi veMohammedan forts or cities were Siri

, built by’

Alau-din in 1304 A. D . Tugh lakabad,built by Tugh lak Shah , in 1321 A .D.

the citadel of Tu h lakabad, built bythe same kin at t e same date ’

Adilabad, built yMuhammad Tu hlakin 1325 A.D. andJahan anah , enc osedby th e same k ing. e name Delh i

l

f

ir

st

tappears in

h

the

d

l st century B . c .,

u e area t us esi h ated 0

no'

v

ivhbe determined.

g annotogul dynasty d

e modern town dates from the 1commencement of th e fort by Shah

J ehan in 1638, whence it was iShahjehanabad. Delh i h as bed

quently attacked, and often cap!It was sacked by Timur, th eM1398 ; by Nadir Sh ah , th e Pei1739 and by Ahmad Shah DuranAfghan, in 1756. On the l oth N1739 , the small Persian gai/wh ich Nadir Shah had intra

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

136 ROUTE 6 . BOMBAY 'ro DELHI

WaterBastion into ruins. All th rough

the 12th and 13th th e roar of 50 heavy

guns was heard day and nigh t, withoutintermission. On the 13th A lexander

Taylor, ofwhomNicholson said,‘If I

survive to -morrow I will let all theworld know that Aleck Taylor took

Delh i,’announced that the breaches

were racticable.

he arran ementa for stormingDelh i were fort with made. The l st

Column under Nicholson consisted of

300 men of the 75th Foot , 250 of thel st Fusiliers, and 450 of the 2d PanjabInfantry. It was to storm the breach

in the curtain near the CashmereBastion. The 2d Column, under Brig.

J ones, C .B . , was to storm the breach

in the W ater Bastion, and it con

sisted of 250 men of the 8th Foot ,250 of the 2 d Fusiliers, and 350 of

the 4th Sikhs. The 3d Column,

under Col . Cam bell of the 52d,

was to assault t e Cashmere Gate,and consisted of 200 men of the 52d

Foot, 250 of the Kumaon Battalion,and 500 of the l st Panjab Infantry.

The 4th Column, underMajor CharlesReid, who so long and gallantly held

the post at H indu Rao’s house, was to

enter the city by the Lah ore Gate. It

consisted of 860 men of the SirmurBattalion, the Guides, and other cdrps.

The 5th Column, theReserve, was commanded by Brig. Longfield, and con

sisted of 1700men. Besides these five

columns, H o Grant with 600 sabres

of the 9th ncers and Sikh H orse,

whose dut it was to prevent sallies

from the { shore and Ajmera Gates,were for long under heavy fi re.

“On the nigh t of the 13th Lieuts.

Medley and Lang explored the Cash

mere breach , and Greathed and H omethat of th eW ater Bastion. Th emorning of the 14th was fine and still .

Nicholson laid his arm on Brig. J ones’

s

sh oulder, and asked him if h e was

ready. H e then rejoined h is own

Column, gave the order to storm, and

immediately the heavy uns, wh ichwere roaring at their lou est, becamesilent . Th e Rifles sounded the advance, and th e l st and 2d Columnsascended the glacis. The fi re of theenemy was terrible, and the Engineers

India

Greathed and Ovenden were the first

to fall . The stormers carrying the

ladders were led b Captain Baines

and Lieut.Metje. W enBaines reached

the W ater Bas tion he h ad only 25

left out of 75. Both he and

Metje were carried disabled to the

rear. The l st Column was divided

into two sections. Nich olson himself led one, and Col . H erbert of

th e 75th the other. Nicholson was

the first to mount the wall. In the

other section Lieut . Fitzgerald, who

was the first to ascend, was sh ot dead.

His place was soon supplied, and soon

both sections of the l st Column hadcarried th e breach near th e Cash

mere Bas tion, and taken u their posi

tion at th e Main Gu Th e 2d

Column, entered by the breach in the

Cashmere curtain, doubled along the

o

pzn space to their righ t, and cleared

ramparts to the Mori Bastion,where the rebel gunners fough t gal

lantly, and were bayoneted at their

guns. Th e Column then advanced

and took the Kabul Gate, on wh ich a

soldierof theGl st planted a flag. Fromthe Lah ore Gate the enemy kept upa

gelling fire. Nicholson collected a

number ofmen to storm th is gets. As

he advanced he found h imself'

in a longnari ow lane lined with marksmen on

both sides. Some of the enemy’

s

were brough t to bear on th e attac

column, and themen fell fast. MajorJ acob of the l st Fusiliers received his

death wound, Captain Greville and

Lieut . Speke were struck down. The

Columnwavered, Nicholson rushed for

ward,h is loftystaturerendered h imcon

spicuous, and in a moment he was shotthrough the body, and in s iteofhis re

inonstranceswas carriedto t ereartodie.

The 3d Column had been a pointed

to enter the city th rough theHashmereGate, wh ich was to be

gblown open by

Lieuts. H ome and Salkeld, Sepe

Carmich ael,Burgess,andSmith . ome,with his bu ler, was first down into

the ditch . e planted h is bag, but as

Carmichael advanced with his he wasmortally wounded. Smith then ad

ranced, and placed his dying comrade’

8

bag as well as h is own, and pre

the fuzes for ignition. Salkel

Room 6 . THE smcE or DELH I

ready with a slow match , but as h ewas lighting it he received two bullets ,

OBJ ECTS OF INTEREST W ITH IN TH E

and falling he called on Smith to tak e C ITY

the match , which was taken by Bur

gene, and Smith was in the act of

givin him a box of lucifers when Bur

gess a fell with a bullet through h isbody. Smith was now alone

,but h e

had struck a ligh t , and was applyingit when a portfire went off in h is face.

There was a thick smoke and dust ,then a roar and a crash as Smithscrambled into the ditch . There he

placed his hand on H ome, who said hewas unhurt , and h avin joined the

Column went forward. e gate hadbeen shattered, but not so destroyedas had been anticipated. But the 3dColumn passed th rough it. Smiththereobtained stretchers, and h ad Bur

gess and Salkeld carried to the cambut both of them died— Burgess on t e

way,andSalk elda few days afterwards.

”

Thus were the walls of Delhi won,

but before the wh ole place was in our

pom ssion there was six days’

moresevere figh t ing, which th ere is not spaceto describe. Our loss in these street

encounters was most severe, and tried

greatly our exhausted force.

ITINERARY.

The sigh ts of Delh i and its neighbonrhood cannot well be seen in lessthan 3 days. These 3 days may beemployed in the followingmannerlst Alarming — Fort and Palace

,

Jumma Musjid, J ain Temple, Kalaii

Aflernoon.—Drive to Ferozabad and

lndrapat.2d Morning — Visit sigh ts outside

thetown in connectionwith theMutiny,driving out by th e Cashmere Gate andreturning by theMori Gate.

Aftemoon.- Drive by J ey Sing

’

s Observatory to Safdar J ang

’

s Tomb, roundbyTomb ofNizamu-din Auliya to thatofHumayun,

and so back .

3d Dem— Starting early, drive to

Kutb, stopping

on route to see th e

Reservoir of auz-i-Khas. After an

earlylunch eon,proceedtoTugh lakabad,and back by theMuttra Road.

The Fort wh ich was built b Shah

J ehan in 1638,has 2 gran gate

ways to the W . The Lahore Gate is

truly a magnifi cent building, and fromthe t0p is a fi ne view lookingW . to the

J umma Musjid, with , to its righ t, a

wh ite J ain temple and the Indian

town. Straigh t from th e gate is the

street called the Chandni Chauk ,Silver Square.

”

To the righ t ,outside the city, are H indu Rao

’

s

house, and the other celebrated places

on the Ridge and immediately to the

S. is the Delh i Gate of the Fort , verysimilar in appearance and construction

to the other.

Passing under the Lah ore gateway,the travel ler will proceed due E. alonga great arcade like a huge cathedral,but lined with shops on each side

,to

the Nakar Khana (A), beyond wh ichis the Diwan-i-

’

Am (B ), or H all of

Public Audience, open at three sides,and sup ortedby rows of red sandstone

pil lars, ormerly adorned with gildingand stucco-work . In the wall at the

back is a staircase that leads u to

the throne, raised about 10 ft . romthe ground, and covered by a canopy,supported on four pillars of white

marble, the whole being curiously in

laid with mosaic work . Beh ind the

throne is a doorway by wh ich the

Emperor entered fromh is privatea art

ments. The wh ole of the wall be indthe throne is covered with paintings

and mosaic, iii precious stones, of the

most beautiful flowers, fruits , birds,and beasts of H industan. They were

executed by Austin de Bordeaux, who,after defrauding several of the princes

ofEuropebymeans offalse ems, wh ichhe fabricated with great s

'

11, sough t

refuge at the court of Shah J ehan,

where h emade h is fortune, and was inh igh favour with th e Em eror. In

front of the throne, and slig tly raisedabove the floor of the hall

,is a lar e

slab ofwh itemarble,wh ich was formorrich ly inlaidwith mosaicwork , ofwh ichthe traces only now remain.

” 1

1 Beresford’

s Guide to Delhi, 1856.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

ROUTE 6. BOMBAY 'ro DELH I

plan, though built on a very mucharger scale, and adorned with two

noble minarets, wh ich are wantingin the Agra example ; wh ile from th e

somewh at capricious admixture of

red sandstone with wh ite marbleit is far from possessin the same

elegance and purity of e'

ect . It is,however, one of the fewmosques, eitherin India or elsewhere, that is designed

to produce a pleasing effect externally.

It 18 raised on a loft basement, and itsthreegateways, com inedwith the four

angle towers and the frontispiece and

domes of themosque itself, make up a

designwhereall theparts arepleasinglysubordinated to one another, but at the

same time produce a whole of great

variety and elegance. Its principal

gateway cannot be compared with

that at Fatehpur Sikri, but it is

a noble portal, and from its smallerdimensions more in harmony with th eobjects by wh ich it is surrounded.

”

Th e gateways are surmounted with

gallenes, on the roofofwhich are fi f

teenmarble domes, with Spires tipped

with gold. Above these are six fluted

marble minarets, with open arch ed

chambers at the top, and surmountedwith gilt pinnacles. These th ree noble

gateways are approached by grand

fligh ts of steps, unrivalled elsewhere.

As of old only the Mogul Emperorcould enter the main gateway, so nowonly the Viceroy of theQueen-Empressmay do so. H ence it remains shut

save on a Viceroy’

s visit .

The doors are massive and overlaid

with brass arabesques halfaninch th ick ,

giving access to a stately quadrangle,325 ft . square, in the centre ofwh ich

are a marble basin and fountain.

Round three sides of the quadrangle

runs an Open sandstone cloister, 15 ft .

wide, with pill ars of the samematerial .The mosque ra

pper is 201 ft. long and

120 ft . broug he inscription gives

the date in Arabic as 1658 A .D . , th e

year in wh ich Aurangzib deposed h isfather

, Shah Jehan.

Five th ousand workmen were employed for six years in th e constructionof 121118 mosque. At the N.E. corner isa pavilion in wh ich are placed relics ofMohammed. The traveller must not

0 ask to see th eMSS. and relics

There is a Koran written in

Kufik of the time of’

A li, that is inthe

7 th century ofour era one writtenbythe Imam H usain, very clear andwell

preserved one written by the ImamH asan

, the pages of wh ich are muchcrumpled at the beginnin th eKafsh

i-Mubarak or“Prophet’s lipper,”

filled

with jasmine ; the Kadmu’

lMubarak,Footprint of the Prophet imprinted

on a stone Mui-i-Mubarak , a h air ofthe Prophet

’

s moustaches and part of

the canopy over th e Prophet’s tomb.

The two minarets rise to the h eight of130 ft. They contain staircases

,and

the ascent to the top is easy. At the

topare small pavilions, fromwhich thewh ole city can be viewed.

Chandni Ch auk , wh ich is the princi

pal street of the city, runs from E. to

W . in almost a direct line from the

Lah ore Gate of the Fort to th e Lahore

Gate in theW . wall of the city . It is

lined with fine trees, and h as a covered

a

qlueduct running along the middle.

T e ch ief articles ofnativemanufacture are jewellery and embroidery in

gold and silver, and th e best sh ops are

in th is street . In th e centre of the

Ch andni Chauk is the NorthkFountain. TheMosque of Roshanu

daulah , also called th e Sonala or

GoldenMosque,” from its three gilt

domes, is close to this fountain. It was

built inMuhammad Sh ah ’

s reign, byRoshanu-daulah Zafar Kh an in 1721

A .D. It is a small but beautiful building, and on it Nadir Shah sat duringth e massacre at Delhi. The Kotwali

is next to it, and it was h ere that

H odson exposed th e bodies of theDelhi

Princes whom he h ad k illed. A t the

W . end of the Ch andni C hauk is the

FatehpuriMosque. It was built in

1650 A .D . by Fatehpi'

rri Begam, wife of

Shah Jchan. It is of red sandstone.

There are two minarets 105 ft . high .

TheMor (or Ow en’

s) Sarai, in Queen’

s

Road, near the rly. sta., is a modernstructure buil t by theMunicipal Committee at a cost of rs. for the

accommodation ofnative travellers.

Close by are the Queen’

s Gardens.

They h ave the Chandni Ch auk skirtingthem to the S. and face the rly. and

some 6.

sta. on the N. The are laid out withbeautiful trees and s rubs ofall k inds,and in them stands a huge stone ele

phant. On theplatform upon which itisraised is an inseri tion statin that itwas brough t fromEwalior, an set upoutside the south teofh is new palaceby theEmperor Sfi h J eh an, 1645 A .D.

A legend relates that the two famousRajput ch iefs, Jaimall and Patta ,

wh odefended C h itor against Akbar, wererepres ented by stone fi res riding on

this and another elep ant wh ich hasbeen lost . Akbar himself killed J aimall, and set up the elephants , withthe two warriors riding on th em

,

at Agra. Shah Jehan brough t themto Delhi. They were mutilated byAurangzib and lost sigh t of. The twofigures are now in the verandah of the

Museum of th e Institute, which con

tains lit t le of interest except portraitsof the tw o Lawrences, Sir R. Montgomery,Nich olson, LordMetcalfe, LordCanning, and others orpictures, butbetter th an none. e C lock Tower

adjoins th is buildin and stands in th eChandni Ch auk . It is of red sandstone

, 128 ft . bigTheKalanMusjid, orBlackMosque,

to the S. of the town near the Turkuman Gate,

1 is well worthy of a visit asone of th e most rfect specimens of

the age ofFeroz S h Tu hlak , 1386.

On the outside, the bui ding consists

of two stories , of wh ich the lower,

forming a k ind of plinth to the actual

place of worsh ip, is 28 ft. h igh , thetotal heigh t to the to of the battlements being 66 ft . he sloping styleof the arch itecture seems eculiarlyillustrative of the buildings of

)

that andearlier periods. The sloping pilasterson each side of themain entrance givesomewhat of an Egyptian appearanceto the front of the building, wh ich isnot dissimilar from th ose of the moreancient remains of H indu arch itecture.

The peculiar construction of the

arch es and domes, the stones of wh ich

1 The Turkuman Gate h as its name from a

saint called Shah Turkuman, who was styledt h e Sun of Devotees. H edied in 638 a n1240 A .D. , in the time ofMuizzu-din BahramSh ah . There is a vement round h is tomb ,and on the 24th 0 Rajah a great fair is held

DELH I C ITY

The J ainTemple, to theN.W . ofthe

JummaMusjid (about end of last cent. )is ap roached b narrow streets, and

stan 8 upon a igh walled platform

gained by narrow steps. It consists of

a small marble court surrounded by a

stucco colonnade in front of the temple

proper, wh ich rises breast -high abovethe court and is surmounted by an

oblong dome. W ithin, the ceiling andwalls are rich ly gilded, and are su

pported by two rows of small marb e

columns. In the centre of the templeis a pyramidal platform in 3 tiers, u on

wh ich rests a small figure of Bud a,

seated beneath an elaborate ivorycanopy. In the porch , Fer sson

draws particular attention to t e ex

quisite device of fi lling in th e back of

the struts wh ich support the arch itravebeneath the dome— characteristic of

J ainarch itecture— with foliatedtracery.

are held together by the wonderfuladhesive qualities of the lime used inthose days, with out any keystones, ischaracteristic of the MohammedanIndian buildings of the 14th cent

(Carr Stephen). The walls, which are

very th ie have in the up ier story a

number of openings, fi lle with redstone screens, now much mutilated.

There is a stern look about this sombreunadorned building, the plan ofwh ichBishopH eber says is exactly that ofthe original Arabianmosques— a squarecourt surrounded by a cloister androofed with many small domes of the

plainest and most solid construction.

Th e Cambridge Mission to Delhi

was sent out from the University in

1876. Themembers livein communityat theMission H ouse near th e United

Service H otel. They work among th enatives in connection with the S.P.G.

which h as an old-established station

here. TheMission Com und and St.

Stephen’

sMission 0't are close to

th e railway station. The twoMissionsconjointly have ch arge of St. Stephen

’

s

College, of a native boys'

boardingschool with 600 pupils, and severe

day sch ools.

5 Th e S.F.O . has also aMedicalMission here.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

noun : 6. OLD DELH I AND NEIGHBOURHOOD

inscriptions on this pillar are

dated Semwet A .D. Samwat A .D. Samwat 1581 :1524 A .D. Al l the long inscriptionsaregivenat theend ofSaiyadAhmad

’

s

Guide.

TheMutinyMemorial.— This is 400yds. farther on along the Ridge, andis of red sandstone. It forms an octa

nal Gothic spire, standing on threeiminishingplatforms, with seven windows, andwas erected to commemoratethe events of the siege, the names oftheregiments and batteries wh o servedat it , and of the Offi cers who died in the

performance of theirduty . Ascendingto the top Of the building, the travellerwill gain a com lete view Of the si

tion. In the p sin to the N. O theBi 0 is th e spot whereH .M. theQueenof gland was proclaimed Em rose ofIndia on the l st ofJ anuary 187 Onthat day Lord Lytton occupied a placein a centre pavilion, with an amphitheatre in front Of h im in wh ich wereall the feudatory princes and ch iefs OfIndia, while at h is back eat the leadingEuropean Offi cials and envoys from

places even as distant as Siam, and totheW . an army of about men,British and Indian, was drawn up.

Turning from the Ridge S. by thecircularroad, the travellermay t e-enterthe city by theMori Gate, close to

c h is seen theMori Bastion, fromwhich t he rebelsmaintained so terribleafiretill th e storming.

OLDDamn AND rm: NEIGH BO URH OOD.

The ’Idgah is west Of the city about

1m. from the walls, and not far off isflieKadarm87mm] ; or

“H oly Footstep”

called the Farash Khana), whereis the tomb ofPrinceFateh Khan,

built by h is fatherFeroz Shah in 1374.

'

flure 18 also aMosque, College, andother buildings, and a miraculous im

Of the Prophet’

s foot, said to have

i brough t fromMecca by theyoungH am

’

s tutor.

Th e J ail is 1m. S. of the Delhi Gate,on th e O posits side of the road to

Feroza It was an oldCaravansarai,and th ewalls are 25 ft . h igh , and verymassive. Paper, mats, carpets, and

bedding aremade in theworkshops.

143

To the E. about 250 yds. from the

jail is the fort of Perozabad, built byFeroz Shah Tughlak , 1354. It is nowutterly ruined, but must have been a

stron place in the Old time when itwas t ecitadel of a citywh ich extendedfrom the fort OfIndrapat to th eKushakShikar, or

“H unting Palace, near

H indu Rao’

s h ouse, where the otherPil larofAsoka, called theDelhiMeerutPillar, now stands. The three-storiedbuildin called Kotila (see below),stands glueN. and S. , at Qm. to theW . Of the Jumna. The three storiesdiminish in area as they rise.

The Lat , or Asoka pillar erected on

the roof, is broken at the top in a

ja (1 way. Cunningham calls it theDel i-Siwalik Pillar, as it was brou h tfrom Tophar at the foot of the Siwa ikH ills,where theJumnaenters theplains.It is a monolith ofpink sandstone, butthe peo ls of the locality called it

(Kit corundum stone. W henthe pillarwas fixed, the to was ema

mented with black and w ite stone

work surmounted by a gilt pinnacle,from wh ich no doubt it receivedits name ofMinar Zarin or GoldenMinaret . ’ Th is gilt pinnacle was stil lin its place in 1611 A .D. , as when

W illiam Finch in that year visitedDelh i, hedescribed thepillaras passingthrough three several stories, rising 24ft . above them all, h aving on the to a

globe surmounted by a crescent .”

he

pillar is 10 ft . 10 in. round, where itissues from theroof,and the total heigh tis 42 ft . 7 in. , of wh ich 4 ft . 1 in. is

sunk in the masonry. A t 10 ft . 1 in.

from the roof are some Nagri inscriptions, with the dates in two of them,

Samwat A .D. Th esemusthave been inscribed after the removalOf the pillar to Delhi. The others

were written at Tophar. Above these

Nagri inscriptions is the Pali, wh ichcontains theedict ofAsoka prohibitingthe taking oflife. ThePali inscription

dates from themiddle ofthe 3d centuryB.C., and the characters are ofthe Oldest

form that has yet been found in India.

Th ough it is very clearly written, when

Feroz Shah assembled all the learnedof the day to decipher th e inscription,theywereunable to do so. Thelast ten

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

146 ROUTE 6 . BOMBAY TO DELH I Indiadeath . H edied in 1555 A .D . It cost 15lakh s, and took 16 years to build.

Jai (J ey) Sing’s Observatory, orthe

J antrMantr, is 2m. S. Of theAjmere

H amidah BanO and other members Of Gate and 250 yds. to the l. of themainth e Imperial family are buried here. road. Mr. Beresford

’

s descriptionofallThe mausoleum stands upon a wide these buildings is th e best (see Delhi»

Sketch Plan ofH umayun’

s Tomb.

raised platform, and consists Ofa largecentral octagon surmounted by a domewith octa on towers Of une ual sides

at the ang es. Its plan is t at after

wards adopted at the Taj, but usedhere with out the depth and poetry Of

that celebratedlbnilding. It is, h owever,a noble tomb, and an here else mustbe considered a won er (Fergusson).A side door leads into a ch amber inwh ich are three beautiful wh itemarbletombs

,being those of

’

Alamgir IL,

Farak h Sir, and Jehandar Shah .

There are no names or dates. H uma

yun’s cenotaph is Ofwh ite marble, and

“The largest Of the buildingsis an immense equatorial dial , namedby the Raja the Samrat Yantra, orPrince ofDials,

’th edimensions ofthe

gnomon being as follows

Length of hypothenusebase

perpendicular

These buildings, ch iefly interestingto persons who have a knowledge of

astronomy, were constructed in 1137

A . H . 1724 A .D . , by J ai Sing RajahOf Jeypore, commonly called Sawai Jai

Sing. H e was an engineer, mathematician, and an as tronomer. Hecon

stru cted on h is own

tory, and others at

and Ujjain. All themuch ruined.

Tomb of Safdar J ang.—At

beyond th e JantrMantr, on theOf the road, is the tomb OfSafdarwh ose real name was Abu

’

lMKhan

, Safd

title.

is under the centre of th e dome,in an eldest

octagonal hall,—it is quiteplain, with

out any inscription.

The enclosure in wh ich th e mausoleum stands contains about 11 acres.

The red sandstone is most artistically

picked out in reliefwith wh itemarble.

The windows are recessed, and the

lower doors are fi lled in with lattices

cut out of the solid stone and marble.

In the centre of each side of themainoctagon is a porch 40 ft. h igh with a

pointed arch . The wall Of the domeIs 11 ft . th ick , and covered with slabs

Of white marble. The view from the

top is worth seeing. H ither Bah a

dur Shah fled after the storming of

Delh i in 1857 , and surrendered to

H odson,wh o on th e followingday, with

a small force and in the presence Of ath reatening concourse of natives,turned for the princes, th e sons

Bah adur Sh ah,wh o also surrendered

and were sh ot by h im on the spot .

Sh ah .

closure. On the left of

is a sarai for travellers,righ t amosquewith threethe ground platform are

mounds, wh ich are th e

Thisbuildingis 99 ft . sq. an

high , and contains in

ment themarble cenobestowsonlyqualified

ing“it will not bear

ROUTE 6.

A cross-road leads from this mansoloum to Humayun

’

s Tomb, which isdistant under 3 In. On the left Of th isroadisagroupOffour tombs, regardingwhich General Cunningham writes :“TheN. oup, consisting Of two octa

gonal tom sand a bridgeofsevenarches,isattributed by the natives to the timeofthe Lodi family, the larger tomb,within a square, bein assi ed to

SikandarLodi,and I bsieve t at th is

attribution is most probably correct .

But theS. group, wh ich consists of amosqueand two square tombs, belongs,inmyOpinion, to an earlier period.

”

Haus-i-Khas .— Th is reservoir was

constructed by Sul tan’

Alau -din intheyear1293 A .D. it is 2 m. N. of the

Iiutb, near the village ofKh arera, andisdifficult of approach , as there is no

mniage-road to it. It is most easilyleachedfrom Safdar Jang

’

s tomb. Theareaof the tank is a h ttle over 100

Indian acres. It is now a completerum. Feroz Shah cleared it out in theear 1354 A. D . ,

and repaired it and

t a colle e near it , at wh ich YusufBin J amal usaini was professor, andbewas buried in the courtyard of th eculle

gle. The tomb ofFeroz Shah stands

ou t e bank . H e died in 1388 A .D .

The tank is now dry, and is cultirated.

From Safdar Jang’

s tomb to theKutbMiner is full 5 m. Near B egamPW

’ there is a mosque 800 yds. to theleft ofthe road.

The Kutb Miner, with its adjacentmosque and surrounding buildings, isAbout 11m. from the Ajmere Gate, andBlends, it is said, on th e site Of the

Signal H indu city Of Dilli, probablyl i theFort Of Lalkot built by AnangP0111. in 1052 A .D . Adjoining to theE was the Fort of Rai Pithora, 1180A D. The line of fortifi cation Of these

OLD DELH I AND NEIGH BOURH OOD 147

by Rai Pithora, that h is daughter

migh t see th e J umna from the topOf it. Saiyad Ahmad inclines to thebelief that it is of H indu origin. But

Cunningh am seems to come to therigh tconclusion th at it is a purelyMoh ammedan building.

‘ The inscriptions

appear to sh ow that it was begun byAltamsh . As we see it at present, it is

240 ft . 6 in. h igh , and rises in a suc

cession of 5 storiesmarked by corbelledbalconies and decorated with bands

Of inscription. The base diameter is47 ft . 3 in. , and that of the top about

9 ft . The three first stories are of

red sandstone with semicircular and

angular flutings the two upper stories

are faced ch iefly with wh ite marble,and were almost entirely rebuilt byFeroz Shah Tugh lak in 1368, when he

also added a cupola. On l st Aug.

1803 the whole pillar was seriouslyinjured by an earthquake and the

cupola thrown down . It was injudiciously restored in 1829 , when besides

th e injury to the inscriptions alreadymentioned, the battlements and the

balconies were removed and replaced

by th epresent flimsy balustrades, andan entirely new cupola (now standin

on a mound by the side of the tower?was erected. Th is on Ola does not

pretend to any resem lance to the

original one. Notice sh ould be takenOf the h oneycomb work beneath the

brackets of the first -story balconies, of

wh ich the structure differs in no

perceptible degree from that in the

Alh ambra.

”

It is worth , for th e sake

of the view , to ascend to th e top Of the

Miner, wh ere may be seen the stumpOfFeroz Shah

’s cupola.

TheMosque of Kutb’

ul Islam (Kuvatul Islam) was begun by Kuth

-ud-din

Aibak when Viceroy, immediately after

th e capture OfDelh i in 587 A.H .= 119l

A .D .,as recorded by the King h imself

in the long inscription over the inner

archway Of th e E. entrance. Even in

ruins it is a magnifi cent work . It was

seen by Ibn Batuta about 150 years

after its erection,when he describes it

as having no equal, either in beauty or

extent . It is not so large as the great

1 For part iculars regarding the discussion

see Arobaso. Reports, vol. i. p. 190.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

150 ROUTE 6. BOMBAY TO DELH I

is to theE. , but there are al so openings

to the N. and S. The interior is in

scribed with beautifully written pass

ages Of the Koran, and in the centre of

theW . side is a Kiblah Ofwh itemarble

discoloured with age. About 5 ft. fromthe ground are several lines in Kufik .

The tomb is in the centre,and has

been great ly injured th e toppart is of

modern masonry. Cunningham says

th at there is no roof, but there is

good reason to believe that it was

originally covered by an overlappingH indu dome. A single stone of one

Of the overlapping circles, with Arabic

letters on it , still remains.

”

Fergussonsays In addition to the beauty of

inner tower and Outer

of large rough stones, very coarse

work, as the stones are put in anyhow.

The total heigh t as it now stands is 70ft . above the plinth , or 87 ft. above

the ound-level. A facing ofredstonewou d doubtless have been added. The

entrance is on the E. , and on theN.

there is a window intended to light

the spiral staircase. H ad th is pillar

been fi nish ed it would h ave been

about 500 ft . high .

’

Alau -din Khilji,wh o built1316 A .D .

,

that the

1312.

Metcalfe H ouse was th eits details, it is interesting as bein th e Muhammad Kuli Kh an, t

Oldest tomb known to exist in In ia .

”

The Alai Darwazah , 40 ft . to th e

S.E. from the Kuth Minar, is the S .

entrance Of th e great orenter enclosure

to th e mosque. Th is gateway was

built of red sandstone rich ly orna

mented with patterns in low relief,in

1310 A .D ., by’

A lau-din. Over three

broth er of Akbar. It h aslarged, and rooms have beenmodern

1

Ofth e entrances areArabic inscriptions, entrance pill ars now remain.

wh ich give’

A lau din’

s name,and h is

well known title of Sikandar Sani,the second Al exander, with the date

710 A .H . The buildin is a square.

On each side there 18 a Ofty doorway,with pointed h orse sh oe arches. In

each corner th ere are two windows

closed by massive screens of marblelat tice-work . A few yards to the E.

stands the rich ly carved building, in

which 18 the tomb of Imam Zamin, or

father of Imam Muh ammad ’

A li, of

Mashh ad. H e is otherwise called

Saiyad H usain. H e came to Delh i inthe reign ofSikandar, and h imselfbuiltthemosque as a tomb. H e died m 944

A . H . 1537 A . and left ln h is will

th at he should be buried here. Th ere

is an inscription in the Tughra char

acter over the door. It is a smalldomed building, about 18 ft . square, Ofred sandstone covered with chunam.

Alai Minar is at th e distance of 435ft. due N. from the Kuth . J ust aboveth e base or platform, wh ich is 4 ft. 3in. h igh , th e circumference is 259 ft.The traveller must climb 8 ft. ofwallto get into th is Mmar The Wh olestands 011 a mound 6 ft . h igh . The

from the spectators.

S.W . of the Kuthvillage ofMaharoli.Kutbu-din Ush i is he

OLD DELHI AND NEIGH BO URHOOD

m 5 if 1“l‘ 1 1

grandeur that is both striking and im

pressive. Th e fort has th irteen gates,and there are three inner gates to the

l

citadel. It contains seven tanks, and

ruins of several lar e buildings, as the

J ummaMusjid, an the BirijMandir.

The upper part is ful l ofruined h ouses,but th e lower appears never to have

been fully inh abited. Saiyad Ahmadstates th at the fort was commenced in

ROUTE 6.

several tombs of kings after the timeof Aurangzib. i In. from this a

paved way is passed leading to the

Temple of J ogMaya, wh ich is veryfamous amongst H indus, who refer it

to th e very ancient date of Krishna’s

childhood. In fact, however, the

present building was erected in 1827 .

here is no image in it. There is a

fair here every week. On th e h t are

the ruins of the palaceofAltams and 1321 , and finished in 1323, A . D.

on the left the entrance gateway to a Th e fine Tomb Of Tugh lak is outside

garden of t h e king. th e S. wal l of Tugh lakabad, in the

Tughlak abad — This fort is upwards midst of th e artifi cial lake, and sur

Of 4 m. to th e E. of the Kuth . It rounded by a pentagonal outwork ,is on the left of th emain road coming wh ich is connected with th e fort byfrom Delh i, and is built on a rocky a causeway 600 ft . long, supported on

eminence from 15'

to 30 ft . h igh .

Cunnin am thus describes it (Arch .

Rq». vo . i. p.

“The fort maybedescribed with tolerable accuracy as

ahalfhexagon in shape, with threefaces

of rath er more than 2m. in length ,and a base of 1} m. , the whole circuit

2325only 1 furlon less than 4 In. It

s on a rocky eigh t , and is built

ofmassive blocks of stone, so large and

heavy that th ey must have been quarriedon the spot. The largest measuredwas 14 ft. in length by 2 ft . 2 in. , and 1

ft. thick , andweighed rathermore than6tons. Th e short faces to theW . , N. ,

and E. are protected by a deep ditch ,and the long face to the S. by a large

sheet of water, dry, except in the rainyseason, w h ich is held upby an embankment at the S.E. comer. On this sidethe rock is scarped, and above it the

main wal ls rise to a mean heigh t Of 40ft.,with a parapet of7 ft. , beh indwhichrhea anoth er wall Of 15 ft . , the whole

heigh t above the low ground beingupwards of 90 ft .

’

In th e S.W . angle is the citadel,which occupies about one-sixth Of the

area. It contains theruins ofan exten

sive alace. The ramparts are raised

ona inc ofdomed rooms , which rarelycommunicate with each other, andwhich formed the quarters of the

garrison. The walls slope rapidl y inwards , as much as those Of Egyptian

buildings , and are without ornament ,but the vast size, strength , and visible

solidity of the wh ole give to Tughlakabad an. air of stem and mese1ve

27 arches. Mr. Fergusson says : The

sloping walls and almost Egyptian

soh dity of this mausoleum, combinedwith the bold and massive towers Of

th e fortifications that surround it , forma picture ofa warrior

’s tomb unrivalled

anywhere.

”

The outer walls have a

slope of 2 333 in. er feet ; at base

they are 11} ft . thic and at top 4 ft.

The exterior decoration of the tombitself de ends ch iefly on difference of

colour, w ich is effected by the free use

Of bands and borders Of wh itemarbleinserted in the red sandstone. In plan

it is a square, and three ofits four sides

have lofty archways , the space above

the doorway being fi lled with a wh ite

marble lattice screen of bold pattern.

It is surmounted by a wh ite marbledome. A lesser dome with in the same

pentagon covers, it is said, the tombofone OfTugh lak

’

s ministers.Inside the mausoleum there are

three cenota be, which are said to be

th ose ofTu hlak Shah , h is Queen, andtheir son funa Khan, who took the

name ofMuhammadwhen he ascendedthe throne.

”

A causeway runs to’

Adilabad, the

fort of Tu h lak’

s son J une Khan, who

as sumed t e title OfMuhammad Shahbin Tugh lak . H ewas a famous tyrant,and is still spoken Of as the Khuni

Sultan, the bloody King.

”

FerozShah , h is successor, got acquit tances

from all those h e had wronged, and

put them in a chest at the head of the

ant’s tomb, that he migh t present

em when called to judgment.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

154 ROUTE 7 .

withal, about every square and pass

age, porch and h all, that is itself no

mean source Of pleasure. The silence

tOO is striking. Now and then in th emornings you hear a bell for a few

seconds, or the beating of a drum for as

short a time, and on holidays ch ants

from the larger templesmeet your car ;but enerally during the after-

part Of

the ay the only sounds are those Of

vast flock s of igeons that fly about

spasmodically om the roof Of one

temple to that Of another. Paroquets

and squirrels, doves and ringdoves

abound,and eacock s are occasionally

met with on t e outer walls. Th e to

of the h ill consists Of two ridges, eac

about 350 yds. long, with a val ley be

tween. Each Of these rid s, and the

two large enclosures that fi l the valley,are surroundedbymassivebattlementedwalls fi tted fordefence. Thebuildingson both ridges again are divided intoseparateenclosures called tales,generallycontaining one principal temple, withvar

'

ngnumbers Ofsmallerones. Each

oft eseenclosures is rotectedby strong

gates and walls, an all gates are care

ull closed at sundown.

O attem t is made to describe theshrines in etail ; their general ch ar

acter is so Often repeated that it would

only be possible to do so with the aid

of profuse illustrations. Th e area en

closed ou the top is smal l enough forany one of ordinary activity to see all

overit in thecourseofa two h ours’

visit.

There is one gate leading into th e

enclosure, but thereare 19 gates with in,

leading to the 19 ch ief Pagodas . Notfar from the Ram-pol (pol means gate)is a resting

-

place usedby persons ofdistinction, wrth a tolerable room sur

rounded by open arches .

J ames Fergusson says“The grou ing togeth er Of these

temples into w at may be called C ities

ofTemples, is a peculiarity which theJ ains ractised to a greater extent thanthe fO lowers of any other religion inIndia. The Buddh ists grou d theirStupas and viharas near an aroundsacred spots , as at Sanch i,Manikyala,or in Pesh awur, and elsewhere ; butth ey were scattered,used to

AHMEDABAD TO SOMNATH India

mark some sacred spot . The Hindusalsogroupedtheirtemples,asat B huvaneshwar or Benares, In great numberstogether ; but in all cases because, so

faras weknow, thesewere the centres of

a pO ulation wh o believed in t h e gods

to whom the temples were dedicated,and wanted them for the p s Of

th eir worsh ip. Neither Of t ese re

li

fgions, however, possesses such a group

O temples, for instance, as t h at at

Satrunjaya, inGuzerat. It covers a verylarge space of ground, and its shrines

are scattered by hundreds over th e summits of two extensive hills and in the

valley between them. The larger ones

are situated in ta les, or separate enclos

ures, surroundedbyhigh fortifiedwalls ;the smaller ones lure the silent streets.

It is a city of the gods, and meant for

them only, and not intended for the

use ofmortals.

A ll the peculiarities of J ain archi

tecture are found in a more markeddegree at Palitana than at almost anyother known place, and, fortunately for

the student of the style, extendingthrough all the a es during wh ich it

flourished. Someo thetemplesareas oldas the 11th century, and they are spread

pretty evenly over all the interveningtime down to th e present century.

J ames Burgess in his report gives th efollowin general description

At t e foot Of the ascent there are

some steps with many littleor cells, l l ft . or 3 ft. square, Open

only in front , and each h aving in its

floor a marble slab carved wrth the

representation Of the soles of two feet

(charan), very flat ones, and gena'

allywith the toes all of one length. A

little beh ind, where the ball of the

eat toe ough t to be,there is a

iamond-sh apedmark divided intofoursmaller figures by two cross lines , from

th e end Of one of wh ich a curved line

is drawn to the front of the foot.

The path is paved with rough

stones all the way up, only interrupted

here and there by regular fligh ts of

steps. At frequent intervals also then

are rest -houses, more pretty at a dis.

ROUTE 7 . ExOURsION To VALABH IPUR

Hindu monkey god, H anuman, theimage bedaubed with vermilion in

ultra-barbaric style. A t th is point the

path bifurcates to the righ t leading tothe northern peak , and to the left tothe valley between, and through it toth e south ern summit . A little h igherup, on th e former route, is the shrine

of Hangar, aMussulman pi'r, so thatH indu andMoslem alike contend forthe representation of their creeds on

th is sacred h il l of the J ains.

“On reaching the summit of the

mountain, the view that presents itself

from the top Of thewalls is magnificentin extent ; a splendid setting for th eunique picture. To the E. the pros

pect extends to the Gulf of CambaynearGogo and Bhaunagar to theN. it

is bounded by the granite range Of

Sihor and the Chamardi peak ; to th eN.W . and W . the plain extends as

far as the eye can reach . From W .

to E. like a silver ribbon across theforeground to the S. ,winds the Satrun

jaya river, the eye follows until

it is lost between the Talaja and Kh o

kara H ills in the S.W .]

Th e antiquarian who is not pressed

for time may care from Songad to visitthe site Of the ancient city Of Vala

bhipur, wh ich is neariyidentical with

themodern town ofW ab, and is 12m.

distant by road. The authorities at

Songadwill always arrangethejourney.

Valabhipurwasperhaps as O ld as Rome,and was the capital ofall th is part of

India. The present town (under 5000inhab. ) is the capital of one of the

small Kattywar states. It has been

verymuch neglected. Therearescarcelyany arch itectural remains at W e]ah ,

but O ld foundations are discovered, and

sometimes coins, copper plates, mudseals, beads, and household images havebeen found in some abundance. Th e

ruins can be traced over a large area Of

jungle.

Resuming the journey from Songad

to Bhaunagar,90 In. Sihor sta. D . B . Th is was

at”

on time the capital of th is state.

The team,well situated 15 m. S. Of

155

the rly. , has some interesting H induTemples .

103 m. Bhaunagar. no: The city (ofinbah . , founded 1723) stands

on a tidal creek that runs into the

Gulf of Cambay. The head of the

Gulf above th is creek is silting up so

rapidly that it is ver diffi cult tomaintain the necessary e th of water for

native trading vesse s and coas tingsteamers. The Bhaunagar state hasfrom its first connection with theBritish Government been administeredby men of intelligence, and the townwill be found amost pleasing sample ofthe results ofnative Indian government

going hand in hand with European

progress. Th e staple export is cotton.

here are no interesting ruins, butabundance of very handsome modernbuildings on Indian models, water

works, reservoirs, and gardens ; and atthe port will be seen an intelligentadoption of modern mech anical im

provements.

The traveller, if he proposes to VISl tJunagadh , Somnath , Porbandar, or

any places in th e W . , must return to

Dhola junc. and ch angethere. Th ere isnoth ing to detain h im until h e reaches

J etalsar junc. sta. (R. ) 152 m. fromW adhwan. This place is th e residenceof the Assist . Political A cut for theS. or Sow th division of t e Provinceof Kattywar. H ere the line branches

(1) S. to Vera/wal for Somnath , (2) W .

to Porbandar, p. 162, and (3) N. to

Vanlcaner and Wadhwan, p.

(1) J eta lsar to Varawa l.16.m. (from Jetalsar), J unag

‘

adh (theold fort) sta. ,

at: D.B . , W . of the town,opposite a modern gateway, called the

Reay Gate; the capital ofthe state, andtheresidenceoftheNawab. Pop.

Situated as it is under theGirnerandDatar H ills, it is one of the most picturesque towns in India, wh ile in anti

?uity and h istorical interest it yields tocw . The scenery from the h ills aroundis most pleasing, and the place has

attractions wanting in most ancient

Indian towns, which , as a rule, are situ

ated in uninterestingplains. There is

a great deal of gamem Kattywar, and

India

specially in theGir, the large unculti eater usuall but 001. J . W . W atson

vated tract to the S.E. of unagadh has heard 0 one or two well-authenti

but the Gir is very unhealthy in the

AHMEDABAD TO SOMNATH156 noun : 7 .

early part of the autumn, and again at

the beginning of the rains.The soft sandstonewhich everywhere

underlies Junagadh is an interestingThefortifications ofthepresent town study. Formed apparently in very shal

were all built by theMohammedansafter the capture ofthe laceby SultanMahmud Bigadah , of uzerat, about

1472. The Nawab’

s Palace is a fi ne

modernised building. In front ofit is

a cdcircleofshops called theMahabatrole. The A rts College was designed

and built b a local architect , and was

opened by rd Curzon inNov. 1900.

TheTombs ofth eNswabs areh ighlyfinished buildings. Fergusson says :

There is a cemetery at Junagadh

where there exists a group oftombs allerectedwithin this century, somewith inthe last 20 or 30 years, which exhibit ,more nearly than any others I am ac

uaintedwith , the forms towardswhicht a stylewas tending. The style is not

without a certain amount of elegance

in detail. The tracery of the windows

is executedwith precision and appropri

ateness.

”Entering the enclosure by

theN. gate, the tomb ofBahadurKhanII. is in front on the l. , next to it th e

tomb of H amed Khan II. , and on its

1. that ofLadli Bu, a lady whosemarriege, and the influence she gained,caused no slight difliculty to this state,and no little trouble in the PoliticalAgency.

Nawab Mohobat Khan, in Saracenic

style, and finely carved. m. beyondtheN. gate of the town is the Bakar

Bagh , a well laid-out on that belongs to the Vazir. here is a two

stoned villa, surrounded by amoat fullofwater. About 50yds. from the houseis a menagerie, in wh ich are panthers,deer, etc. In a still finergarden at the

S. of the town, the Sardar Bagh , are

kept a number of lions and lionessesfrom the Gir forest.tigers in the Kattywarpeninsula, butupto themiddleofthe present centurylions inh abited all the large jun les,andwere sh ot in th eChoteylaH ills ofRaq t. Now the animal is confined totheGl l‘. Th e lion is in noway inferior

totheAfrican s ies , although themane18 not so large. TheGir lion is not aman

Beside th ese is the tomb of

There are no U

low water, it shows on all sides com li

esmd lines ofstratification. Thefacifitywith which it isworkedmaybeonereasonwhy it has been largel excavated into

cave-dwellings in Bud t times.The Caves.

- In the N. of the

town enclosure, near the ol tele ph

offi ce, is the group called the Kai-m;

Khodia . These caves appear to h ave

been a monastery, and bear the cognizance of the then ruling race, a winged

grifiin or lion. They appear to havebeen two or three stories high . Theyare, however,excavated ingoodbuildingstone, and themodern quarrymen havebeen allowed to encroach and injurethem ; the lower ones have never beensystematically cleared out. The mostinteresting caves of all are situated inthe Uparkot, about 50 yds. N. of the

great mosque. They arenow closed byan iron te. They consist of two

stories, t e lower chambers being 11ft . high . Mr. Burgess says Fewbases could be found anywhere to excel

in beauty of design and richness of

carving those of the six principal

pillars. InsidetheW agh eshwariGate,throughwhich theGirner isapproached,are the caves known by th e name of

B awa. Piam, a comparat ively modernH induasceticwho is said tohaveresidedin them.

The Uparkct, on the E. side of the

city, used as a jail until 1858, is

now practical] deserted. It was the

citadel of the o d H indu princes, and is

probablythespotfromwhenceJunagadhcrives its name. Permission to visitit must beasked. W ith out presentingany very special features to describe, the

rkot is oneofthemost interestingof01 forts. Theparapets on th eE. ,where

the place is commanded by hi her

ground, have been raised at least ree

times to give cover against the in

creasin ly lon rangeofprojectiles. Th eviews rom t e walls are delightful.

H ere were quartered the lieutenants of

the great Asoka (250 and, later,

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

sour]: 7 . J UNAGADH— GIBNAR 1 5 7

thoseofth eGupta kings. Theentranceis beyond th e town,

in theW . wall, and

consists of three gateways, one insidethe other. Thefort walls here are from60 to 70 ft. high , forming a massivecluster of buildings. Th e inner gateway, s beautiful specimen of the HmduTom ,

has been topped bymore recentMohammedan work , but the neral

efl'

ect is still good and, wit the

approach cut through the solid rock ,impressive. On the rampart abovethe

etc is an inscription ofManda

lika dated 1450. Proceeding 150

yds. to the left, throu h a grove of

sitapha l (custard applesg, you come toa huge 10 in.

-bore cannon ofbell-metal,17 ft. lon and 4 ft. 7 in. round at themouth . gun was brough t fromDio, where it was left by the Turks .

There is an Arabic inseri tion at the

muzzle,wh ich may be tran ated “Theorder to make this cannon, to be usedin th e service of the Almigh ty, was'

ven by the Sultan of Arabia andersia, Sultan Sulaiman, son of SalimKhan. May his trium h be glorified,to punish the enemies o the State andof th e Faith , in the capital of E t,

At the breech is inseri d,The work ofMuhammad, the son of

Hamzah .

”Anotherlargecannon called

Chudanal, also fromDiu, in thesouthern

portion ofth efort, i3 18 ft. longfand has

a muzzle 14 in. diameter. car th isis th e J umma Munj1d, evidentlyconstructed from the materials of a

Hindu temple. Mr. Burgess says itwas built byMahmud Begadah . One

plain, slim minaret remains standing,ut the mosque is almost a completemin. The ascent to the terraced roofis by a good staircase outside.

TheTomb ofNuri Shah , close to them us, is ornamented with flutedcupo as, and a most peculiar carvingoverthe door. There are twoWells in

th e U rkot— the Adi M i, said to

h ave an built in ancient times byth e slave

’

rle of the Chudasama rulers,is descemgd by a long fligh t of steps

(th e sides of the descent show themostremarkable overlappings and changes

cf l iein the strata, for wh ich alone it 1 80018 worth a visit to any one with geo Smith ,logical tastes) and theNaughan, cut or Burgess, Second Archaeol. Report.

W eof J ohn Wilson, by Dr. G.

forpicture and account of the stone ;

to a great depth in the soft rock , andwith a wonderful circular staircase.

There is a fine dharmsala belongingto the goldsmiths near the Wagheshwari Gate.

The mountain Girnar is the greatfeature of Junagadh , and the J aintemples upon it are amon st themostancient in the country. t is 3666 ft .high , and is one of themost remarkablemountains in India. From the city ofJunagadh onl the top ofit can be seen,as it has in nt of it lower hills, ofwh ich Jogniya, or Laso Pawadi, 2527ft.

, Lakshman Tekri, Bensla, 2290 ft.h igh , and Datar, 2779 ft. h igh , are the

rincipal . Girnerwas anciently calledaivata or Ujjayanta, sacred amongst

theJains toNemmath , the22dTirthankar, anddoubtless a lace of l lgnm

'

e

before the days ofAsgka, 253)

B .0.

tag

Thetraveller, inorderto reach Girnar,will through th eWagheshwariGate,whio is close to the Uparkot . Atabout 200 da. from the gate, to the

t of t e road, is the Temple of

:gheshwari, which is joined to the

ro h

pa causeway about 150 yds .

long. 11 front ofit is amodern temple,

three stories high , very ugly, atroofed, and quite plain. About a furlong beyond this is a stone bridge, and

just beyond it thefamous Asoka Stone.

It is a round boulderofgranite, measuring rough] 20 ft . x 30 ft . , and iscovered wi inscriptions, which proveon examination to be 14 Edicts of

Asoka (250 B .o. )1 Nearl identicalinseri tions have been foun at Dhauli,near eshawur, and elsewhere. Thecharacter is Pali.On leaving Asoka

’s Stone, cross the

handsome bridge over the Sonarekha,which here forms a fine sheet of water,then pass a number of temples, at

first on the l. bank of the river andthen on the rt . , where Jogis go aboutentirely naked, to the largest of thetem les dedicated to Damodar, a nameof lgrishna, from Dam, a rope, becauseat this spot h is mother in vain attempted to confine h im with a ropewhen a child. The reservoir at th is

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

l 60 acorn 7 . AHMEDABAD ro somw ra India

Tirthank ar. FartherN. is the templeof Samprati Raja. This temple is

probably one of the oldest on the h ill,ate 1158. Samprati is said to have

ruled at Ujjain in the end of the 3d

cent . B .C . , and to have been the son

of Kunala, Asoka’

s th ird son. S. ofth is, and 200 ft . above the J ain temples,is theGamnukha Shrine, near a plentiful spring ofwater. From it the crestof themountain (3330ft . ) is reach ed bya steep fligh t of stairs. H ere is an

ancient temple of AmbaMata, wh ich

or attendant of the shrine is seen in

front. To the rt . is a stone platformsurrounding an unusually fine man

go

tree, with a tank just beyond, and t a

shrine ofDatar, a building 30 ft . h igh

with a fluted cone at top. H ere it is

necessary to take off one’

s shoes . Th eshrine and the whole place are veryattractive.

There is a Leper Inn near the

Datar Temple for 100 epers of both

sexes, built at the expense of th e V azir

Sahib Bahu-ud-din. H .R.H . Prince

Temple ofTejahpala and Vastupala, Girner.

is much resorted to by newly-married

cou les of the Brahman caste. The

bri e and bridegroom havetheirclothest ied together, and attended by their

male and female relations,adore the

goddess and present cocoa -nuts and

other offerings. Th is pilgrimage is

supposed to procure for th e couple a

long continuance of wedded bliss. Tothe E. , not far ofl

'

, are the 3 rockySpires oftheGorakhnath , theNeminathorGuru-dattara a,andtheKalikaPeaks.S.E

:of the erawal Gate of Juna

gadh is the Sh rine of J amal Shah or

Datar. After under a low arch“9" the 01W, t 6 house of th eMujawir

Albert Victor laid thefoundation-stone

in 1890. Above it, 4m. in S.E. direction, is the Datarpeak (2779 ft . )On the summit of the h ill is a small

shrine, and a very beautiful view. The

bill is held sacred byMohammedansand H indus alike, and is supposed to

h ave a beneficial effect on lepers, who

repair to it in considerable numbers.61 m. Veraval sta. at: Th e railway

terminus is on the W . side of the city,close to thewalls, and about 5m. fromthe ligh th ouse at the landing

-place.

Th is is a very ancient sea-port, and

probably owes its existence to its morecelebrated neighbour Patent Somnath!

some 7 . PATAN SOMNATH

Itrose into notice during the time of Red Sea, Persian Gulf, and AfricantheGuzerat sultans, and in theirreigns coast. The lace is renowned inH indubecame, until superseded by Surat , th e myth ology. t was heretheJadavs slew

principal port of embarkation for each other, and here Krishna was shotMohammedan pilgrims to Mecca. It by the Bhil. In the Gir forest, inland

is still a flouris lit tle seaport. In from Paton, is the only place in IndiatheTempleEar Mata is a celebrated where there are one or two separateinscription recording that a communities ofAfrican negroes. Mahmosquewas endowed in th at year, and mud of Ghazni conquered the town inbearing dates in four different eras . 1025 A .D . , and it appears that he leftItwas from th is inseri tion that it was beh ind a Mohammedan Governor.

discovered th at the alabh i era com Subsequently the H indus recoveredmenced in 3 19 A .D. , and the Shri Sing their ower, but it was again cast downera from 1113 A .D . The river Devka by A agh Khan circa 1300 A .D . , andflows to th e N. of Verawal, and joins the coast belt or Nagher k ingdom con

the sea at a place called Dani Baru. quered. From th is date MohamThe J a leshvar Temple, about 2 m. medan supremacy prevailed through out

Verawal and Patan.

N.W. from the town, at the mouth on th e belt,and from the reign ofMuham

the righ t bank , is of great antiquity . mad Tugh lak re

gular governors were

On the S.W . face of Verawal there isa appointed. Fina ly, owing to th e galmodern sea -wall and an unfinish ed lantry and statesmanship of Diwans tonepier, with a ligh th ouse at the end Amarji, it was conquered by theNawabof it. A large Custom H ouse has been ofJunagadh in wh ose h ands it remains.

built on the sea face, and near it is 9. About the middl e of the 15 th cent.

dock established on reclaimed land. Somnath (with Verawal) had becomethe principal port of embarkation for

On the sea-sh ore, nearly 3 m. to the Mohammedan pilgrims to th e citiesS.E. , is Patan Somnath , also known as ofMecca andMadinah , and th is lastedPrabhas Patan, or Deva Patan

,th e till it was su erseded by Surat .

Samwat ofMarco Polo. The anch or Thou b it is so ipsed now as far as

as at Verawal and Patan are so bad wealt and population are concerned,

t t it is hard to account for the un by the adjacent port of Veraval, it isdoubted fact that from the earliest still an important town.

times they carried on a tradewith the Proceeding fromVerawal to Patan by

[India] M

162 s core 7 .

the road, to the rt . is a vast burial

ground, with thousands of tombs, andpa lias. There are also buildings whichwell deserve examination after the travellerhas seen thecity. TheJunagadh ,orW . Gate, bywh ich Ps tan is entered,is a triple gate, and is clearly ofH induarch itecture.

fi rst division of the gateway is veryancient

, and is sh own to be Hindu bythe carving of two elephants on eitherside pouring water over Lakshmi butthe figure of the goddess is almostobliterated.

After passing the second gateleft, is the W . wall of a mosque of thetime ofMahmud. There is no inscription in it, but its antiquity is so creditedthat th e Nswab has assigned therevenue of three villages for keeping itin order. After passing the th ird

portal of the Junagadh Gateway, thereare four stones on the righ t hand, ofwh ich two have Guzerati, and two Sanscrit inseri tions. Driving on straigh tthrough t e bazaar, wh ich is verynarrow, and has quaint old houses oneither side, the J umma Musjid isreached. The entrance is by a porch ,wh ich has been a mandir in front ofaH indu temple.

Themost interestingpart ofthis veryancient building is , that in each of the

four corners is a carving of two humanfigures, with the Bo treebetween them.

A low door in the W . side of the porch

leads into the court of the mosque,wh ich is much ruined it has been

deserted for 25 years, and inhabited bMoslem fishermen, who dry their fi sin it.

To reach the Old Temple of Somnath it is necessary to drive th rough

the bazaar of Patan and turn to the

righ t . The temple is close to the sea.

Fergusson considers th at it was probably never a large temple, but adds thatthe dome of its porch , wh ich measures33 ft . across, is as large as any we knowof its age. The interior of theporch is“en now in its ruins very striking.

Fromwhat fragments ofits sculptureddecorations

anythmlg we know of th is class of theirt was

, no doubt,like the temple

AHMEDAB AD TO SOMNATH

The centre part of the

an enclosurestrong place. Now the temple stands

Plan ofTemple ofSomnath by J . B urgess.

alone,strippedeven ofitsmarble ; like,

but superior to, the temples at Dabhoiand Lakkundi. There are three en

trances to the porch , and a corridorround the central octagonal

wh ich was covered by the great dome,There are four smaller domes. The

dome in the centre is su

pported by

eigh t pillars and eigh t are as, and no

wood seems to have been used. The

pillar on the righ t h and, looking fromthe E.

, next but one before reachingthe adytum,

has an inscription, whichis all illegible but the date, Samwatl 697= 1640 A .D . The walls on th e

N., S.

,and W . sides have each two

h andsomely carved niches, in which

there have been idols .

The tem la is said to have been firstbuilt of go d by Somraj, then of silverby Ravana, then of wood by Krishna,andthen ofstonebyBh imdeva. Th oughth ree times destroyed by theMohan

remain, they must have modens, it was nevertheless three timty, quite equal to rebuilt , and so late as 1700 A .D . n

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

164 ROUTE 7 . AHMEDABAD 'ro SOMNATH India

ing the shrine you

Ipass throu

gh the at that time by the British Govern

porch ofan ancient indu temp e. ment , still cling to their former tradiNot far from th is spot is the Bhid tions by wh ich each man believes th at

B hanjan Pagoda on the sea -shore, he is a prince in his own righ t .locally known as Bhidiyo, very old, (c) Cha ya, a vill e 2 m. S .E . of

pterhaps of the 14th century. It is 60 Porbandar, was once t e capital . Theh igh , and forms a ood mark for old palace is still there.

sailors. To the E. of t e pagoda is a (d) B ileshwwr, 8 m. N. of Ranawaoclear space, wh ere Englishmen coming sta., a small village E. of th e B ardafrom Rajkot pitch their tents. H ills. Th ere is here a fine temple of

Many coasting steamers call at Vera considerable antiquity, and in goodwal, and a traveller can go by sea preservation.

Bombay or to Porbandar, Cutch , (e) Ghumli orB humlz’

, is about 12 in.

Karach i. If he desires to return by N. of Bileshwar, or 24.

m. from Por

land, he retraces h is steps to Jetal sar bandar by the road seeing W . of the

junc. Barda H ills. Th is p is now abso

lutely ruined and deserted ; it was the

(2) J eta lsar to Porbandar.capital oftheJethwaswhenat th ezenith

of their power. It lies in a

gorge of the

9 m. Dhoraji, an important com Bards H il ls ; theruins are0 th e 11 th or

mercial town, mp 12th century. The most interes ting79 m. Porbandar terminal sta. , remains are the Lakhota, the Ganesh

D.B . , E. ofthe town, the capital ofthe Dehra, the Rampol , th e Jeta W ao, and

state of that name, and a place of some the grou of temples near the Son

interest . It isidentifiedwith theancient Kansari ank ,and some ruins on the

city ofSudempuri, known to readers ofthe Bhagamta. Near this is an old

temple of Sudema. The line is con

tinued for goods traffi c along th e sh ore longing to the J am of I‘Tawanagnr.

1

to thecreekW . ofthetown,whereit ter 40m. S.E. from Porbandar, atmminates in awharf. H ere the traveller

has reached a very old-world corner,

not recommended to visitors ina hurry, dedicated to him there. ]but very interesting to thosewho have

leisure, or to sportsmen. The coasting(3) J etalsar to Rajkot, Vanlcamr and

steamers between Bombay and Kar

achi touch at Porbandar. 23 m. Gondal is the capital of th e

[The places of interest in the neigh . state of th at name,and the residence

bourhood are of the ch ief. It is a ch eerful, well

(a) Shrinagar, 9 m. N.W . ofPorban cared-for town, with many handsome

dar, believed to have been the first temples. Thepublic offi ces areo

si tuated

capital of the Jethwa Rajputs. There outside the town on open sites sur

are remains of an ancient temple of rounded by gardens . The courtyard

the sun.of the palace is very h andsome.

(b)Miani, a very ancient seaport A6 m. Rajkot Sh eik

.

a civil and

18 m. N.W . of Porbandar. To the military stat ion, the rceidence of th e

extreme N.W . in the district of Political Agent , and the headquarters

Okhamandal. directly under theGaek Of the administrati on.

war of Baroda are some of the most The 190315 important public work“1sacred H indu Temples in India, e.g.

ReJkOt 19 the.

Katsur:a-H znd B fi dg‘

th ose at Dwarka, (“door and Beyt

over the AJ I river,built byMr. S.E.

island The original possessorsBooth , whose name is connected With

Of th e place were a warlike tribe of nearly every important modern buildReJ Puts, called Whagirc,

”

who were ing in the Province. The total ednotorious pirates up to th e early part

of the bridge was t e., ofwhichafth e 19 th century,and, though reduced 1 Ghumli is il lustrated in Bureau

'

s Sn“.

Archwol. Rep.

ROUTE 8. REWARI TO rs sozsrus

the Chief of Bhaunagar aid all but7500rs. The munificent onorof thisbridge was educated at the RajkumarCollege, on wh ich he bestowedrs. to build a wing and a residencefor the principal, and further contributed rs. to the EndowmentFund.The Raj lmmar College deserves a

visit, as th e place where the young

princes ofKat tywar are educated. Itwas opened in 1870. On the groundfloorisafine h all

, which gives access tothe class-rooms. Some good portraitshang on th ewalls. A lon both frontsis amassive verandah , an over the E.

entrance a rectangular tower 55 ft .h. The entrance is on the W . ,

andis ed by two circular towers. TheN. and S. wings contain 32 suites ofbedrooms and sitting

-rooms, bathrooms and lavatories. To the W . oftheN. wing is a chemical laboratory,and on the opposite side a gy

mnasiumand racquet

-court . N. of t e laboratory are extensive stables. Theyoungprinces, besides playing all manly

$3 are drilled as a troo

plof cavalry .

ofthe quadrangle are t 9 houses ofthe Principal and vice-principal , withextensive gardens. S. of the buildingsis the cricket -field of 19 acres. Thecollegewas founded by 001. Keatings.TheH igh. School was openedin Janu

ary1875. It cost rs. which were

givenby the Nawab ofJunagadh . Inthecentre is a fine hall .N.E. ofRajkot are the J ubileeWaterWorks

,which are for the supply of the

town.

A branch line runs to (54 m. ) NawaMgar or Jamnagar, capital of thestate of th at name, whence Mandvican be reached by native craft.Small steamers occasionally

'

ply betweenBeoi, near Nawanagar, and BombaThe best way to reach Mandvi wou dbe by steamer direct from Bombay.

Steamers call about twice a week .

From Rajkot theMarin: State Railmfih narrow-

gauge (25 ) line) runsN. to Wadhwan, via Vankaner junc.

its. (25 m.) This is the capital of amall state and the residence of theChief. The country around is undulatlug, rising into hills W . and S. of the

town. FromVankaner the lineruns E.

to (51 m.) W adhwan, and (91 m. ) V iramgam (see p. From this pointa line runs toMeh sana (see p. 118) forAjmere, Delhi, etc.

ROUTE 8

REWAB I '

ro Fs aoznrun

Dewari junc. sta. is 52 m. S.W . ofDelh i, described in Rte. 6. (p.

52 m. Bhowani etc. , with

people, ch iefly H indus.

74m. Hansi sta., D.E., amodern townof inhabitants, lies on theW .

Jumna Canal. It is said to have beenfounded b Anangpal Tuar, Kin ofDelhi

, an was long the capita ofH ariana. Therearemineofan ancient

Citadel and some remains ofgateways,and a h igh brick wall, with bastionsand loop

-holes. Th is old town has noconnection with the new

, wh ich , likemany others in th is district, owes itsorigin to the establishment ofa secure

British rule, and the opening up of

the country by railways. The canal

wh ich flows b it is fringed with h andsome trees. n 1788 it was desolatedby famine, but in 1795 the famoussailor adventurerGeorge Thomas fixedhis headquarters at Hansi, whichforthwith began to revive. Col.Sk inner, C .B . , settled here in 1829 ,In 1802 British rule was established.

and a cantonment was fixed here in

which a considerable force, chieflyof local levies, was stationed. In

1857 these troops mutinied, murderedall the Europeans they could lay hands

u n, and plundered th e countryhen peace was restored the canton

ment was abandoned. At Tosham.

23 m. S.W are some ancient inseri

tions. They are cut in the rock ha f

the way up as is a tank which is

much visited by pilgrims, who come

166 h ours: 8 . REWARI TO FEROZEPUR India

from great distances to the yearly fair to Patiala, Rajpure, and Umballa, andthere. W . to Bahawalpur, Hydrabad and

89 m. Hissar sta. D.E. Pop. Karachi. Th ere is a very high pictur

The W . J ummaCana lmadeby esque fort seen well from the railway,theEmperorFeroz Shah crosses fromE. but themodern town contains nothingto W . In 1826 it was restored byBritish .

the of special interest . It was brough t into

In th is place as well as in existence by the British short ly before

H ansi the local levies revolted durin theMutiny.

th e Mutiny of 1857, and murdere14 Christians, to wh om a monumentis erected beside the little church ,but before Delh i was taken, a bodyof Sikh levies, aided by contingents

from Patiala and Bickanur, under

General Van Cortlandt, utterly routed mi'

tarythem.

As at H ansi, so here the modern

213 m. Kot -Kapura junc. sta . (R. )From here a branch line of 50 m . runs

W . to Fazilka on the Sutlej river.

241 m. Ferozepur sta. D.E.

Po There is a fort and a

cantonment 2 m. to the S.

The place was founded in the time ofFeroz Shah , Emperor ofDelhi, 1351-87

town owes its

(present prosperity to a A .D. At the time ofoccupation by the

settled rule an

railways. Likemany other colonies, ithas been formed at th e foot of an old

to the introduction of British it was in a declining state, but

through the exertions of Sir H enryLawrence and his successors it has

ruined town,wh ich lies to the S. of increased to its present importance.

it . It was founded in 1354 A . D. bytheEmperorFeroz Shah , whose favourite residence it became. It is th e

centre of mounds and arch itectural

remains, bavin lain on the maintrack fromMoo tan to Delhi in re

Mussalman times. At H issar t ere

is a Government cattle farm (B ir),managed by a European superin

tendent , and attached to it is an estate

of acres for pasturage.

The District of H issar borders on th eRajputana Desert , and is itself little

better than a waste, scattered overwith

low bushes. Th e water-suppl is in

adequate, the average rainf beingonly 16 in. The ch ief stream is the

Ghuggar, wh ich , with scant verdurealong its bank s, winds through the

district likea green riband. TheH issar

branch of the Western Jumna Canal

passes through a part of the district .

140 m. Sirsa sta. Pop.

There is a large commerce and a cotton

press. The main streets are wide and

well paved, while a circular road which

girdles th e wall is lined by the gardens

ofwealthy residents.

The Fort, which contains th e rin

cipal arsenal in the Panjab, was re ailt

in 1858, and greatly strength ened in

1887. The railway and the trunk road

to Lahore separate it and th e town

from the Cantonment .TheMemoria l Church , in h onour of

those who fell in the Sutlej camof 1845 -46, was destroyed in t e

Mutiny, but has since been restored.

In the cemetery lie many dis

tinguished soldiers, amon t them

Major Gecr Broadfoot , C . Gover

nor-General 8 Agent, N.W . Frontier,who fell at Ferozeshah in 1845, and

Generals Sale and Dick .

On the 16th of December 1845 the

Sikh s invaded the district, but, after

desperate fi h ting, were repulsed. Since

The town and fort are supposed to have then peace as prevailed, except duringbeen founded by one Raja Saras, about theMutiny of 1857 . InMay of that

the middle of the 6th century.

Muslim h istorianmentions it as Saranti.great cattle - fair is held h ere in 3 its of a British regiment and someA

August andSeptember, at which 150,h ead of cattle are exposed

year one of the two Sepoyregiments

stationed at Ferozepur revo ted, and, in

nglish artillery, plundered and dc

stroyed the Cantonment .Thethreegreat battlefields oftheFirst

sta. (1400 Sikh W ar can best be visited fromlines run E. th is point . Ferozeshah , where thebattli

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

170 some: 9 . J arroam'ro AGRA

Tehersn to seek his fortune in India,and rose to power under the title of

Itimadu’

d-dauleh . H is tomb is described below. Mumtaz - i Mahalmarried Shah J ehan in 1615 A .D. ,

had

byhimsevenchildren,anddied in ch ildbed oftheeigh th in 1629, at Burhanpur,in the Deccan. H erbody was brough tto A and laid in the garden wherethe a

.) stands until the mausoleumwas bui lt. The Taj cost, according tosome accounts, rs. , and,according to otheraccounts,rs. It took upwards ofseventeen yearsto build, andmuch ofthematerials andlabourremained unpaid for. Accordingto Shah Jehan

’

s own memoirs, themasons received 30 lakhs. Therewere originally two silver doors at theentrance, but these were taken awayandmelted by SurajMall and his Jats.It is uncertain who was the principalarchitect, but Austin de Bordeaux wasthen in the Emperor

’

s service. H ewasburied at Agra, and it is probable thathe took part in the decoration,especially in the inlaid work , ofmausoleum.

The approach to the Taj 18 by theTaj Ganj Gate, wh ich opens into an

outer court 880 ft . long and 440 ft .

wide, in which is the Great Gateway of the rden -court, which Mr.

Fergusson a worthy ndant tothe Taj itself. It is ind a superb

gateway, of red sandstone, inlaid withornaments and inscriptions from theKoran, inwh itemarble,andsurmountedby 26 white marble cupolas . Before

passingunder thegateway, observe th enoble caravanserai outside, and an

equally fine building on the other side.

Bayard Taylor says : W hatevermaybe the visitor

’

s impatience, he cannothelppausing to notice the fine ropor

tions of these structures, and e richandmassivestyleoftheirconstruction.

They are not only beautiful, but theyincrease the glories of the mausoleumitself, by the contrast oftheirsomewhatstern red sandstone with the soft and

ofwhich it is

H aving passed the tewa thevisitor finds h imself in a uti ul garden. In the centre is a channel of

water, which runs the whole length of

the garden, and has 23 fountains in its

course. The beds of the rden are

fi lled with the choicest s rubs and

cypress trees, equal in size and beautyto those ofMazandarun. It is now

that the mausoleum presents itself to

the gaze in all its lory. It stands in

the centre of a p atform, faced with

white marble, exactly 313 ft. sq. and

18 ft . high , with a wh ite minaret ateach corner 133 ft. high . It is a sq.

of 186 ft. with the corners cut oil

to the extent of 33} ft. The principal

dome is 58 ft. in diameter, and 80ft.in heigh t.TheT

'

was repairedbefore thePrince

of Wales 8 visit . The dome is brickveneered with marble, and all the slabswith which it is faced were examined,and repointed where necessary. The

marble was damaged ch iefly by the

swelling of the iron clamps duringoxidation.

In every an ls of the mausoleumisa small domica apartment, two storiesh igh , and these are connected byvarious passages and halls. Underthe

centre of the dome, enclosed by“a

trellis-work screen of white marble,a chef d

’

aetwre of ele nce in Indian

art,”

are the tombs of umtaz -i-Mahaland Shah Jeban. These, however,as is usual in Indian se ulchres, are

not the true tombs— the ies rest in

a vault, level with the surface of the

ground beneath plainer tombstoneslaced exactly beneath those in the

all above.

”In the apartment above,

where the show tombs are, the light,"

saysMr. Fergusson, is admitted onlythrough double screens ofwhitemarbletrellis-work of the most exquisite de

sign, one ou the outer and one on the

mner face of thewalls. In our climatethis would produce nearl completedarkness ; but in India, an in a build.

ingwholly composed of wh itemarble,th is was required to temper the g

lare

that otherwisewouldhave been intoler

able. As it is, no words can exprmthe chastened beauty of that central

chamber, seen in the soft gloom of the

subdued ligh t that reaches it through

the distant and half closed Openings

that surround it. W hen used as a

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

ROUTE 9 . AGRA

Barahdari, or pleasure-

palace, it must derives an additional charm from thealways have been the coolest and the broad waters wh ich roll past it.loveliest of garden retreats, and now

that it is sacred to the dead, it is the

as exquisite in design as beautiful incolour. Th ey form themost beautifuland precious style of ornament ever

adopted in arch itecture. Though ofcourse not to be compared with thebeauty ofGreek ornament, it certainlystandsfirst among thepurely decorativeforms of arch itectural design. Thismode of ornamentation is lavish ly bestowed on th e tombs themselves andthe screen that surrounds them.

Thejudgment with wh ich th is styleof ornament is apportioned to thevariousparts is almost as remarkableas the ornament itself, and conveys ahigh idea of t h e taste and sk ill of theIndian arch itects of the age (seeHist. ofArch . )Thedelicately sculptured ornamentation

, in low relief, to be found in all

of th e building, is in its way as

utiful as the pietra dura workitself.There are two wings to the mausolearn

, one ofwh ich is a mosque. Anywhere else th e would be considered

{mportant buil ings. Th ere are threeinscriptions : 1046 A . H . = 1636 A .D. ,

1048 a n.= 1638 A . D .

, and 1057 A .H .

=1647 A .D. Mr. Keene, wh o h as givenanexcellent account of th eTa

'

, th ink sthat “the inscriptions show t e order

{11Which th e various arts of the buildmgwere completed. Such then isthis“poem in marble, whose beautyhas been faintly sh adowed out. Itshould be seen if possible by moonh

illt as well as by day. The S. face,

w ich look s upon the arden, is perhaps the most beautifu but th e N.

front which rises above the Jumna,

The Fort . Most of the magnificent Mogul buildings which renderAgra so interesting in the eye of the

traveller are situated with in th e Fort .Theyjustify theremark ofBishopH eber

that theMog uls designed like Titansand finished like J ewellers.

”

TheFortstands on the ri h t bank of the Jumna.

The walls and anking defences are ofred sandstone, and have an imposinga pearance, being nearly 70 ft . h igh .

T e ditch is 30 ft . wide and 35 ft. deep.The water gate on theE. is closed, butth ere are still 2 entrances— the UmmerSing gate on the S. ,

the Delhi Gateon the W . W ithin it, and approachedby a somewhat steep slope, 18 another

gateway called the H athiya.Darwazah

Elephant Gate,”or InnerDelh iGate.

There used to be two stone elephantshere with figures ofPatta and Jaimall,two famous Rajput champions ; theywereremoved,but themark swhere theirfeet were fixed may still be traced on

theplatforms on eitherside of thearchway. There are here two octagonal

towers of red sandstone, relieved with

designs in white plaster : the passage

between these is covered by a dome.

Following th e road, the traveller will

then pass theMini Bazaar, now barrackpremises, and reach

The Moti Musjid, the Pearl

Mosque, ” Fergusson describes as one

of the mos t and most elegant buildings 0 its class to be found anywhere.

”It was commenced 1056 A .H

= 1648 A .D. , and finished 1063 A .H

1655 A .D., and is said to have cost

rs. It was built b Shah

Jeh an on ground slo ing from to E.

The exterior is face with slabs of red

sandstone, but with in with marblewhite, blue, and gray veined. The

entrance gateway of red sandstone,wh ich is very fine, makes a trihedral

projection from the centre of the E.

face of the mosque, and is approachedby a double staircase. The moment

you enter, the effect of its courtyard is

surpassingly beautiful.

ROUTE 9. J EYPORE 'ro AGRA

In the centre there is a marble tank ,37 ft . 7 in. sq. , for ablutions, and between it and the S.E. inner corner of

the mosque there is an ancient sun

MotiMuspd.

dial, consistiu of an octagonal marble

pill ar 4 ft . big with no gnomon, butsim ly two crossed lines and an arc. A

mar le cloister runs round th e E Nand S. sides of the court , interrupted

by archways, of wh ich th ose in the N.

and S. sides are closed. The mosque

proper consists of 3 aisles of 7 bays

opening on to the courtyard, and is

surmounted by 3 domes. On th e en

tablature over the front row ofsupport

ing pillars, tie. on the E. face, there is

an inscription ruaniu th ewh olelen h ,th e letters being ofb ack marble i aid

into the wh ite. The inscription says

that the mosque may be likened to a

precious pearl , for no other mosque isined th rough out with marble like th is.

Narrow flights of steps lead to the topof the gateway and to the roof of th emosque, fromwh ich there is a fine view.

During theMutiny this mosque wasused as an h ospital .Turning rt . from theMotiMosque

th egrand Armoury Square, thePlacedu

Carrousel of Agra, with the Diwan-i

’

Am on the left , is entered. There are

ranges of cannons h ere and large

mortars , and amongst th em the tomb

ofMr. Colvin. H ere is also the Haas

of Jehan

tgir, an enormous monolithic

cistern o ligh t-coloured porphyry or

close-grained granite ; externally it is

nearly 5 ft . h igh , and internally 4 ft.

deep. It is 8 ft. in diameter at top.

It originally stood in Jehangir’

s palace.

Some have though t the Diwan-i-

‘

Amwas buil t byAkbar, oth ers bs eh angir,but according to Carlleyle it was built

by Shah Jehan, andwas h is publicHall

ofAudience. Th is building is 201 ft

long from N. to S. ,and consists of3

aisles of 9 bays open on 3 sides. The

roof is supported by graceful columns

of red sandstone, painted white and

gold on the occasion of the Prince of

W ales’

s visit . A long its back wall are

grilles, through which fair faces could

watch what was going forward in the

hall below,and in its centre is a raised

alcove ofwh itemarble rich ly decorated

with pietra dura work and low reliefs,

wh ich bear evident traces of Italian

design. H ere travellers describe Au

rangzib sitting to watch theadministra

tion ofjustice in the hall below.

Ascend now some stairs at the back

of the place wh ere the Emperor sat in

the Diwan-i-’

Am,and pass th rough a

doorway into Shah Jehan’s palace.

H ere 18 theMach chi Bhawan,or Fish

S uare, formerly a tank . In the N.

si e are two bronze gates taken byAkbar from the palace at Ch itor. At

the N.VV’. corner is a beautiful lit tle

th ree-domed mosque of wh ite marble,called th e Naginah Musjid, or GemMosque.

”

It was th e private mosque

of the royal ladies of th e court, andwas

buil t by Sh ah Jeh an, who was after

wards imprisoned thereby h is successor

Aurangzi Beneath , in a small court

yard, was a bazaarwhere th emerch antsused to display theirgoods to th e ladies

of the court . A two-storied cloister

runs all round theMach ch i Bhawan,except on th e side wh ich fronts the

Jumna,where the upper story gives

place to an o

pen terrace, with a black

throne, on t e side nearest the rim ,

and a wh ite seat opposite, where it it

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

184 ROUTE 10. acne TO BINDRABAN India

the Collector’

s Oflice andMagistrates’ discovered have been deposited in theCourts, the most extensive discoveries LucknowMuseum} where they can hewere made. It appears that on it examined by visitors.

stood two Buddhist monasteries, th eHuvishka and theKunda-Suka Vihara.

Thelatter is theplacewhere thefamousmonkey wh ich made an offering to

Buddha jumped into the tank and

was killed. At th is mound statues of

all sizes, baa-reliefs, pillars, Buddh istrails, votive stupas, stone umbrellas,and inscriptions have been found.

One inscription is of the l at centuryThe earliest is of the Satrap

Sundaes , and the next of the great

King Kanishka in the year 9 . Theleft hand of a colossal Buddha h as

been found, the figure of which must

have been 24 ft . h igh . The mostremarkable piece of sculpture is th atof a female, rather more than halflife size, whose attitude

,and the

position of whose hands resemblesthose of the famous Venus of the

Capitol . Cunningham says it is one

of the best specimens of unaidedIndian Art .In the Chaubarah mounds, 15 m. to

the S.W . of the city, measuring fromthe gateway of the Katra, was founda golden casket, now in the possessionofMr. F. S. Growse.

1

Th e most important discoveries at

Muttra have been made by Dr. Fiih rerduring h is excavations at the KankaliTila mound, wh ich he look s upon as

the site of the Upagupta monasterymentioned by H iouen Thaeng. Theremains ofone Vaishnava and two J aintemples, and a J ain stupa, some 49 ft .

8 in. in dia. , have been brough t toligh t , a nd besides some hundreds of

most valuable sculptures, stu a

ings, panels, etc on many 0 wh ich

are inscriptions datin back beforethe time of Christ . he discoveries prove that the nationa l Indianarts of architecture and sculptureflourished in a high degree at Mut tra,and h ave led to the conclusion that

play-acting was practised very early inthe city of the gods. All the objects1 For th e many other discoveries made in

different mounds nearMuttra referencemustbe made to Cunningh am

’

s Re

port, vol . iii. ,where they aredetailed at gras length .

[Mahaban is about 6 m. S.E. of

Muttra,on the left bank of the Jumna,

and is reached by a good road. It is a

very ancient town and place of pil

grimage, and first emerges into modernistory in the year 1017 A . D. , when it

shared the fate ofMuttra, and was

sacked by Mahmud of Ghazni. TheH indu prince is said, when th e fall ofthe town became inevitable, to h avesolemnly slain h is wife and ch ildren,and then committed suicide. In 1234a contemporary writermentionsMaha»

ban as one of the gatherin places of

the imperial army sent by ham’

s-uddin against Kalinjar. It is incidentallyreferred to by the Emperor Babar in1526.

The country round about it, althoughnow bare of woods, appears to h aveonce been literallyMahaban, a greatforest.

”

Even as late as 1634, theEmperor Shah Jehan h eld a hunt h ere,and killed four tigers. Th is ancientwoodland country fringing the sacredJumna is the scene of very early reli

gious legends. In Sanscrit literatureit is closely associated with Gokul,about a mile off, overhanging th e

J umna. Indeed, the scenes of the

youthful adventures of Krishna, as

cribed in the Puranis to Gokul, are

actually shown at Mahaban, about a

mile from the river. Gokul seems tohave been originally the common name

for the wh ole, although it is now re

stricted to what must have been the

water-side suburb of the ancient town .

The ruins ofMahaban rise as a h ill ofbrick and mud, covering about 30 acres ,the siteofth e old fort . The arch itectural remains combine Buddhis t and

H indu forms.

Themost interesting relic at Mahaban is the so-called Palace of Nanda,the foster-father of the ch angelinKrishna. It consists of a coveredcourt , re-erected by theMohammedansin the time of Aurangzib from ancient

H indu and Buddh ist materials to serve

1 See illustrated des cription in Proceedingsof the An imal. Dent. of theN. W. P.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

186 scum 10. s eas ro m ascara

andbeautyofdetail.

admires t is palace,glory of Deeg consists in the cornices,which aregenerallydouble,apeculiaritynot seen elsewhere,andwhich forextentof shadow and richness ofdetail surpassany similar ornaments in India, eitherin ancient ormodern buildings. The

lower cornice is the usual sloping entablature almost universal in such

buildings . The upper cornice,wh ichwashorizontal, is peculisrtoDeeg,and seems designed to furnish an ex

tension oftheflat roofwhich inEastern

palaces is usually considered the bestapartment of the house ; but whether

des'

ad for this orany otherpurpose,it da singularly to the richness of

the effect , and by the double shadowaffords a relief and ch aracter seldomexceeded even in the East .

”The chief

pavilions are theGopal Bham (wheretravellers areallowed to lodge,andfromthe roofof which there is a fine view),wh ich stands E. of the fine KachchaTank theNandBhawan,N.E. ofth is,a fine hall 20 ft . h igh ; the SurajBhawan, S 88 ft . long ; the Bards

Bhawan, W . and theH elmBhawan,S.E. All these are h ighl decorated,and between and aroun them are

lovely gardens. Beyond and adjoiningthe gardens is the large Bup Baugar

lak e.

The W . gate of thePort (there aretwo gates) is i m. from the Gopal

Bhawan : it has 12bastions, anda ditch

50 ft . broad. Beyond this is a natural

mound, about 70 ft . high , and beyondthat a buildingwhich serves as a rison.

The walls are very massive an lofty.

There are 72 bastions in all. On the

N.W . bastion, about 80 ft. high , is a

ver long cannon.

is celebrated for thebattlefough ton the 1sth November 1804, in whichGeneral Frazer (seeMill, vol . vi. p. 593)defeated Jeswant Rao Kolkat

’

a army.

The British took 87 iecea of ordnancein th is battle, and ost in killed andwounded about 350men. Theremainsof H olkar

’

s army took shelter in thefort ofDi

g.

On the st Decemberfollowing, Lordthe army before Dig, andcommenced operations to

India

reduce that town. On thenigh t ofthe23d his troops ca tured an eminencewhich commands the cit but not

without considerable loss. e enemy,h owever, evacuated Dig on the followin da and the fort on the succeedingnight,ind fled to Eh ar. ]6m. fromMuttra is indi-abu t sta.

(properly, Vrindaban literally , a forestof tulsi plants), the lace to which

Krishna removed from kul .

There is no reason to believe that

Bindraban was ever a great seat of

Buddhism. Its most ancient temples,fourinnumber, date only from t he 16th

cent while the space now occupied

by a series of the largest and mostmagnifi cent shrines ever erected in

Upper India was 500 years an

unc a’

ed belt of woodland’

(seeGrowse,p. Thefourchief templesare those of Gobind Deva, Gopi Nath,Jugal Kishor, andMadanMohan. Bin

drahan is famous as the lace where

Krishna sported with the o is (milkmaids), and stole their clo es when

theywerebath ing. The Jumna boundsthe town to the E. , and winds

pleasantly round it . At the entrance

to the town, on the left, is t h e large

red temple, datin from 1590, sacred

to Gobind Deva, w ich was almost destroyed by Auran

'

b, but h as been

somewhat resto by the British

Government. It is one of themostinteresting and el

zgant temples in

India, and the o y one, perhaps,European architect

migh t borrow a few hints. The

temple consists of a cruciformporch.

'

mternally nearly quite perfect, t ough

externally it is not quite clear how it

was intended to be finished. The call.too, is perfect internally used for

worship— but thesikra is gone, possibly

it may never have been completed.

Th ough not large, its dimensions are

respectable, the porch measuring 117

ft . E. and W . by 105 ft . N. and S.,and is covered by a true vault, built

with radiating arches— the only hestance, except one, known to en st in

a H indu temple in the N. of India.

Overthefourarms ofthecross th e van!is plain, and only 20 ft. span, but it

the centre it expands to 36 ft. , and!

s om e 1 1.

mite equal in design to the best series.Goth ic vaulting known. It is the« ternal design of this temple, howwer, which 18 the most remarkable.

'

lhe angles are accentuated with sin

:ular force and decision, and the.penings, wh ich are more than sufii:ient forthat climate, arepicturesquelmanged and pleasingly divided. iiis, h owever, thecombination ofverticalwith h orizontal lines, covering thewh olesurface, th at forms the great merit ofthe design (Fergusson, Arch. )E. is amodern Tom ls , built by Seth

Radha Krishna and eth Govind Dasin theDravidian style. Europeans arenot allowed to enter. The temple consists ofa vast enclosingwall, with three

gopuras, which are 80 to 90 ft. h igh ,while the gates are about 55 ft . AbovetheW . gate is a terrace

, commandinga view of the temple.

This temple is dedicated to Shri

a name ofVishnu and fi res

of Garuda, the man-bird of Vis nu,

are very conspicuous. In the greatcourt are two wh ite marble avill ons,oneE. and oneW . of the tan and a

stone pavilion with a flat roof, eu

ported by sixteen pillars, opposite t e

E. gopura.

At the back of a temple wh ich isof red stone (r

epaired in 1877 by the

Brit. Gov. an adjoining it on theW ., are, at two corners, two othertemples wh ich resemble each other.

There is a new temple adjoiniu th isto the W . ,

built by a Bengali bu.

It is not tasteful, but has a finely

TheMedanMohan Temple standsabove a ghat on a branch of the river.

Under two fi ne trees, aFicus indies anda Natasha orienta le

’

s, is a pavilion, inwhich many cobras

’

heads are repre

smted. Shiva is said to have struck

Devi with a stick h ere, when sh e

jumped off this ghat, and made it a

for curing snake bites. There is

area 89. m (a species ofAmmoniteworship as a type of Vishnu), withtwofootprints, 21rn. long. This tern le

fi l lift. high , and is in the shape 0 a

TheTemple ofGopiNath is though tby I t . Growse to be the earliest of the

DELHI TO SIMLA

It was built by Raesil Ji, who

distinguished himself under Akbar.

It resembles that ofMedan Mohan,but is in a ruinous condition. Its

special feature is an arcade of three

bracket arches.

The Ternple of J ugal Kishor is at

the lower end of the town, near the

Kesi Ghat . It is said to have been

built by Nou Karan, a Chauhan chief,in 1627 A .D. The choir has ierced

tracery in th e head of the arc and

above it a representation of Krishna

an orting the hill ofGovardhan.

e Temple of Radha

The shrinewas demolished by Aurangzeb. The ruins are fine.

ROUTE 11

DELH I '

ro UMBALLA , KALKA , AND

SIMLAThere are two railway routes from

Delhi to Umballa .

(a) The direct line on the righ t or

W . bank of the J umna river through

Paniput and Kurnal, 122m.

(b) The line on the E. bank of the

river, crossing it twice, and passingthrough Ghaziabad, Meerut, and Se

haranpur, 162m.

Leaving the central station at Delh i,therailway proceeds overa vast plain to

54 m. Paniput sta. , D.E. Pop.

Themodern town stands neartheoldbank oftheJumna, upon a h igh

mound consistingofth edébrrs ofearlier

buildings. In the centre the streets are

well aved, but theoutsk irts arelow and

3 us'

d. Thereare theusual civil offi ces.

T etown isofvery reatantiquity,beingoneoftheplaces ca ledpats, orprasthus,demanded of Duryodhana by Yudish

th ira, about 1100 It is famousforbeing the place where three of the

most decisive battles in India have

been fough t ; but the silent plain tells

no tale, and sh ows no sign of the events

that have happened on rt.

H ere on the 2l st April 1526

Babar encountered Ibrah im Lodi.

On the nigh t before the battle Babar

had sent out 5000 men to make a

nigh t attack on the Afghan army,

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

192 ROUTE 11. DELHI SIMLAscore themountain sides. Northwardsthe eye wanders over a network ofconfused ch ains, rising range aboverange, and crowned in the distance bya crescent of snowy peaks standing outin bold relief against the clear back

ground oi the sky. The rides andwalks will furnish endless amusementto the visitor, who, however, will dowell to be cautious, particularly as

regards the animal he mounts. Anumber of people have been killed byfalling over precipices at this station,and many more have had narrow

escapes of their lives.

Anmdale is a fairly extensive plain,in a valley 1200 ft. below the ridgeon the N.W . of the station. The

Race-course surrounds it , and it con

Grownd, and somevery fine trees. This

is t he s t where all open-air meetingsare hel West again ofAnandaleis the

Glen, a charming wooded valley withsomegrassy slo s and finetimber. Thedrippin rock s ould be looked forin it .

The istances at Simla, taken fromChrist Church , are— Round Jako, 5m. Boileau nj, 22m. to the end

ofChota Sim a, 2m.

Mahmu from Simla

Narkanda

10

15

22

38

4554?

MARCHES FROMSIMLA TO SULTANPUR (KULLU).

From. Accommodation. Supplies.

Simla Theo Vil. good bungalow Abundant

B‘Th eog Math na

8Mathiana Narkanda

Kamaseu

Kamaseu Dalarsh no bungalow

Dalarsh Chawi small bungalow

Jsobb i

Sultanpur 4048

Limited

Fine view ,

From Simla the travellermaymakean expedition to, 4 m Hush obn , a

pleasant place to spend a few days,and toNarkanda andKotgarh ,D.B . There

he will be rewarded by seeing some

grand scenery. The stages are as

follows

A t Phagu, D.B .

, in the territoryof the Rana of Kotah , is amagnificentview of the snowy range.

10 m. E. of Theog are th e Kot

Khai iron-mines.

Narkanda , D.B . splendid view.

532m. Kotgarh .

Sultanpur, th e old residence of the

S tans o Kulla, in th e Knllu Valley, is

ap roached by way ofSimla : it is a longand

ions expedition, but the scenery cannot bu

surpassed for grandeur, and the Deodar

Forests abound in pheasants and oth ergame.

Farther n amongst theh igh peak s sportsmenwill find i and bears.)

ROUTE 1 1A .

ROUTE 1 1A

) sLm 'ro UMBALLA BY THE E. BANK

or Jm a Rrvnx—Mnxnur, Sannmuu AND SARAaanroxn, forDanas Dun ANDMussounm.

13 m. Ghu iabadjunc. sta. Fromhis point the E. I. Rly. runs S.E. toAllahabad and Calcutta.

41 m.Meerut city sta.

44 m. H ERB-UT Cantonment sta. no:

(TheN.W . Rly. enters the cantonmentat the S.W . ) The Cantonment ofMeerut is the headquarters ofa divisionof the army, and is noteworthy fromits size and importance, and becausetheMutinyoftheBengal ArmyinU perIndia began there. It was hel allthrough theMuti

pgby a few British

troo wh o ke t 0 orin the surrounding rict. eerut is an ancient cityhalf-way between the Gan es andJ umna

, and was raised from ecay byBritish patronage. It is an extensivestation, measuring 3} m. from the railway on the W to the Police Lines onthe extreme E traversed by theMallRoad, one of the finest and broadestroads in India, and 3 m. from wherethe Bulandshahar Road, on the S.

leaves the sta. , to the end of ChurchStreet . The European Cavalry Barracks are ofremarkable extent .St . J ohn

’

s Church , completed 1821 ,inthe Italian style, was the first churcherected in theUpperProvinces ofIndia.

Thereare tablets in it to agreat numberofofi cers wh o have been killed inaction or have died in Upper India.

The Cemetery, wh ich lies to theN.W. of the church , is vast, anddivided into two parts

— the new beingmarked by crosses and English tombs,theoldby cupolas and pyramids. The

'

lar, 50 ft . high , was erected to Sir

Rollo Gillespie, who subdued theMutiny at Vellore.

The Central J ail, completed in1819

, is ca ble of holdmg 4600

prisoners. he District J ail is a littlefarther to th e E.

Temples, eta — The Suraj Kund ,commonly called by Europeans the“Monke Tank ,

”

is to the W . of theJ ail. t was constructed by Jox.ah irMull, a wealthy merchant of Lawar,

SARDH ANA

in 1714. There are numerous smalltemples, dharmsalas, and satz

'

pillarson its banks, but none of any note.

”

The B aleshwar Nath Temple is theoldest in the district, and dates frombefore the Moslem invasion. TheDargah , in the Nau ChandiMahallah ,is said to have been built by Kutbadin, from the remains of a H indutemple wh ich he pulled down. TheDargah of Sha h Pir is a fine structureof red sandstone, erected about 1620A .D . by Nur J ehan, in memory of a

pious fakirofthat name. The J ummaMag‘

e‘

d is said to have been built in1019 by HasanMahdi, Vazir ofMahmud Ghaznavi, and was repaired byHumayun. The Malcbamh of SalarMasaud Ghazi is attributed to Kutbudin Aibak in 1191. There are two

large Imambarahs, one near the Kamboli Gate, and another in the ZabidiMahallah , and an

’

Idgah , on theDelhiRoad, built in 1600. There is amosquebuil t by Nawab Khairandesh Khan intheSaraiganj. Andbesides thosealreadymentioned, there are 62 mosques and60 temples in the city, none ofwh ich ,however, deserve any articular notice.

Beforereaching Sa hana the GangesCanal, made by Sir Proby Cantley, iscrossed.

51 m. Sardhana, sta., D.E. , is con

nected with an adventurer namedSombre or Sumroo, of French orW alloon origin, who came out to India as

a carpenter in the French navy. H ebecame leader of a band of Europeandeserters and native Sepo s, whom hebrough t to a state ofdiscip e unusualinnative soldiers. Afterservingunderseveral native ch iefs, but stayin withnone of them long, h e joins one

Gre cry, an Armenian,wh owas h igh inthe avour ofMir Kasim, the Nawab ofBengal. It was afterthe fall ofMungerthat hedid h is em loyerthebase serviceofputtingto deat all the six English

prisoners who had been col ected at

Patna (in a deed for which h isnamewill everbeheldinabh orrence. H enextjoinedth eBhurtpurch ief, andfromhim finally went over to Najaf Khan,from wh om he received a grant of thePar nah of Sardhana, then valued at

6 la “hea year and to h im heremained

O

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

norms 12. mam as

hnk , from which the city takes its

name, Pool ofImmortality.

”

AhmadShah Duranidestroyed it in 1761, blewrp the tem Is , and defi led the shrines

with bulloc’

s blood. After h is retire

nent the city was divided amongst thevarious Sikh ch iefs, to each of whomwas assigned a separate ward. H ow

ever, it aduallypassed into thepowerof t h e hanjiMrsl, who retained thesupremacy till 1802. In that yearRanjit seized it, and roofed the greatsh rine with sheets of copper gilt ,wh enceit was called theGoldenTemple.

H e also built on the N.W . the Fort of‘

Govindgarh in order to overawe the

pilgrims, and surrounded the city withamassive wall, thegreaterpart ofwh ichhas been demolished since the British

Amritsaris a centre ofmanufacturingindustry. Its staple was the weavingofCashmere shawls from the innersoftwool of th e goat , on which 4000 Cashmeris were engaged, but most of themare now employed in carpet factories.

Bumper shudders are also made here,silk fabrics ofsolid texture and beautiful patterns, and ca ts (see below).Carving in ivor

yern oys many artists.

The materials or ese manufacturesare

,in a great measure, brough t from

all parts ofCentral Asia, and themerchants wh o bring themmay be seen intheir national and high ly picturesque

costumes about the town, but moreespecia lly in the caravanserais, which

are well worth of a visit ; and there

may be foun Cashmeris, Afghans,Nepalese, Bokharans

, Beluch is, Per

sians, Tircomans, Tibetans, Yarkandis,and others . Besides the rawmaterialsthey bring fi ne specimens of their ownnationalmanufacturesandembroideries,which may be purchased from dealers

in th is town as well as in the other

chief cities of India. Amritsar is alsothedepct for iece cds, copper, brass,etc . , for th e ntr Asian markets.The City has 12 gates, ofwh ich the

only old one is that on the N. side

facing the Ram Bagh . On his way to

the Great Temple, called the Darbar,orGolden Temple, in the centre of thetown , the traveller passes 2 large

modern Sarais, the Carpet Factory,

beads an miniature spes

their pu3 See5

197

l Alon th is pavement sit hawker-s who sellr-heads and quoits,

wh ich the Sikh s are now content to wear in

gar-ies in lace of the real was us.

it G. B ir wood’

s Industrial A

wh ich an asses any other in India,andmore t an one smallmosque then

through a deep archway in the centre

of the municipal buildings he enters

theKaisar Bagh , where stands a white

marble statue ofH .M. the Queen. A t

the entrance to the temple precinctsstands the C lock Tower, wh ich over

looks the tank and the temple in thecentre. Theview from here is wonderfully pictures ue. Before visiting the

temple it wi be necessary for the

visitor to take off his boots and put on

soft slippers provided for h im at the

entrance on payment of a trifle. It is

also necessary fora policeman to aecom

pany h im, in accordance with Govern

ment rules. The Sacred Tank is sur

rounded by a tesselated avement 1 ofwhitemarble 24 ft. b with ribs of

black and brown,brou h t from J eyporeIt is 470 ft. sq.

2 T 0 buildings sur

rounding it are called Bungah s, andare the houses ofgreat ch iefs who cometo worship. To theN.W . oftheDarbar

Tem 10 is that ofTakh t Akal BungahSahi (see below), with a

'

lt dome,andadjoiningit, to theS., is t ebungah

ofDh iyan Sing, a plain brick building.

Next to it on the S. is the orgeous

bungah of Sher Sing, and in t 0 samedirection beyond it and beyond the

small square in wh ich are all those

already mentioned, is the bungah of

Lehna Sing. In theN.E. is thewh ite

bun of the Ra'

ahs of Patiala and

Nab a, and be on outside th e enclo

sure, to the are the two gigan

tic minars ofMangal Sing’

s family,called the Ram Garh iyaMiners (seebelow).TheDarbar orGoldenTemplestands

in the centre of the tank on a latform65 ft. sq. It is approached rom be

neath an archway on theW . side by a

wh ite marble causeway 204 ft . long,flanked on either side by gildedstandard lamExcept fort e lowerpart ofthewalls,

which are of white marble (decoratedwith modern inlaid work ), the whole of

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

200 nonrn 12. UMBALLA TO muons India

swimming bath , theatre, recreation

ground, andchurch areprovided for theemploye

'

s. A tramway runs from th e

rly. sta. to the native town 1 111. W .

The traveller wish ing to see someth ing of

Lah ore in a sh ort time should secure a

conveyance at the rly. sta. H e should

th en drive to the ao - called Ch Crossat the cross roads near the Punja C lub,and driving E. along th eMall will pass (inth e order in wh ich th ey are named), rt.th e entrance to the Lawrence Gardens1. th e Punjab Club rt . th e combinedLawrence and Montgomery Halls ; 1.

Government House, the residence of th e Lt .

Governor ; l . Aitchison or Chlefs’ College,3 m. furth er in th e same direction is theNissanMoor Cantonment (p. Drivinalong theMall W . from Charin Cross he wil

8 several good sh ops ; 1. Ne ou’s Hotel ; 1.

rdLawrence'

s Statue ; rt . theCathedral ;l . the Chief Court and the AccountantsGnl .

'

s O fiice several Banks and th en rt . theTelegraph Ofi oe. Near a sligh t turn in theroad are l . th e O ld and NewMuseums, andthe Poet omce, and beyond, th e entranceto th e Anarkali Gardens . Turning N. theGovernment College and Small 0. Courtsare passed rt . ; 1. De uty Commissioner

’

s

Court , Model Sch oo and GovernmentSch ool . Furth erE . are the Hospital ,Ma 0

Hospital , etc . Sli h t ly deflecting N.W . t e

Cemetery is passe l . , and a little furth er onth e road divides ; tha

’

~ leading to Sh ahDara 206) across th e bridge of boats , thatrt . wor s round by th e Port , and theN. wallofthe city back to th e rly. sta.

In the new Public Buildings of Lah orean attempt has been made to adopt H induandMohammedan styles ofarch itecture to th erequirements ofmodern buildings.

Lah ore 1 is a municipal city, capitalof the Punjab, headquarters of the

Lt . -Governor and the Punjab Govtand the seat of an episcopal see, andheadquarters of a district of the samename (pop. Tradition as s

that Lahore was founded by Loh , t e

elder son of Rama ; no mention of it,

however, is made by Alexander’

s his

torians, and no Greeco-Bactrian coins

are found among the ruins.

The fi rst reference to it is in the

Itinerary oftheCh inesepilgrimH iouenTh sang, in the 7th cent . It seems thento have been governed by a familChauhan Rajputs, from wh om it was

wrested by theMoslems ofGhazni,it did not attain to magnificence tillth e reign of theMoguls. Akbarlarged and repaired the fort, and sur

1 Th ornton’

s Lahore, and SyadMahammadLat if

’

s Lahore give very full accounts of th e

rounded the town with a wall, portions

of wh ich still remain, built into themodernwall ofRanJ it Singh . Jchangir

also often resided at Lal. ore, and duringh is reignArjunMall, Guru oftheSikhs,compiler of the Adi Granth, died in

prison here. Themausoleum ofJehan

gir is at Shah Dara, 4 m. fromLahore(see below). Shah J ehan built the

palace ofLah ore. Aurangzib built the

great mo ue, but in h is time the citybegan to ecline, andwas much ruined

by theinvasions ofAhmad Shah Durani.Under Ranjit Sing Lahore regained

some of its former splendour, and sincethe period of the British rule, which

commenced in 1849 , buildings have

greatly multiplied. Modern Lahore

covers an area of 640 acres, and is surrounded by a brick wall 15 ft. high.

Themoat has been fi lled in and changed

to a garden, wh ich encircles the city on

every sideexcept thenorth . A metalled

road runs round the rampart , andgivesaccess to the city by th irteen gates .

W ith in the ramparts that surround

the city, in theN. part ofthe enclosure,and N. of the city itself, is the Citadel ,usuall called the Fort. The Ravi

river owingW . oncewashed thewalls

of the city, and in 1662 made such

encroachments as to necessitate the

construction ofa massive embankment4 m. long. It now sweeps round

Lahore and passes to the S. at about

1 111. W . of the city.

The Tomb of Anar Kali,“Pome

granate Blossom (a name given to

a favourite lady in the harem of

Akbar, who was also called Nadinh

Begam, or Shariin-nissa), is an octagon

cased in plaster and surmounted byadome. It was forman years used as

the church of the ci station. The

cenotaph , now placed at the E. end

of the central chamber, is for somereasons one of the most interestingth ings to be seen in Lahore. It is

of th e purest wh ite marble, and the

words carved on it are so exquisitelyformed as to eu anyth ing of the

kind in India. 11 its face and sides

are inscribed th e 99 names ofGod. 0!

the side, below th e names of theDeity,is writtenMajnun Salim A kbar, Tho

profoundly enamoured Salim, son 0!

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

202 ROUTE 12.

Spiti, and Ladakh and Thibetan

curiosities , such as prayer-wheels.

In the mineral section will be seen

the model of the Koh -i -Nur, madefor the Exhibition of 1851. Accordingto the H indus, th is diamond belongedto Karna, King ofAnga, and accordingto the Persians, it and its sister

diamond the Darya-i-Nur, or“Sea of

Ligh t,”

were worn by Afrasiyab. The

Sea of Ligh t is now at Teheran in the

Shah’

s treasury, which contains the

finest jewels in the world. It is said

that Nadirbrough t theKoh-i-Nurfrom

Delhi, and when he was killed it fellinto the hands ofAhmad Shah Durani,and from h im it descended to Shah

Shuja’

a,his grandson, fromwh omRan

jit took it on the fi rst ofJ une 1813. In

1849 it was made over to the British ,

and delivered to the Queen in 1850.

It was re-cut in London by Costs of

Amsterdam, at a cost of£8000, and its

weigh t was diminished from 186 carats

to 1021.

Th ere are also specimens of the

mineral resources of the country.

Among them will be seen iron ore fromBajor. It is a magnetic oxide of

singular urity. Antimony and lead

are also s own, and gold found in the

sands of the Panjab rivers in small

quantities. Specimens of rock -salt of

two k inds, one from the h ills between

the Jhelum and the Indus, and the

other from the hills beyond the Indusare shown. There is a fair collectionofbirds and insects.

Lahorepossesses a flourishin School

of Art , under the superinten ence of

the Curator of theMuseum.

The Punjab Library, is said by someto h ave been built by VazirKhan, b

oth ers by Ilah i Bakh sh . It is a hand

somebuilding, with fourwh ite cupolas,and contains some valuable books.

Not far offis the shrine ofaMoham.

medan saint calledH auj-i-Darya. Over

the door is a Persian inscri tion whichsaysit is the tombofSaiyad uhammadShah Mauj-i-Darya, son of Nuru

’

llah ,wh o was a s iritual

'

de in the timeofAkbar.

p gm

W . of the newMuseum is the TownHall , opened by H .R.H . th e late Dukeof Clarence in 1890.

UMBALLA To muons India

The Native Town and Port — Th e

picturesqueness of the old town mus tappeal to every one, but to artist s

it will be found of especial interes t .

The balconies andprojectin oriel

windows of the irregu ar brick ouses ,

together with the variety and colour

of the costumes of the people, form a

strikin picture. Travellers should

not fai to drive through the bazaars

on their way to (or from) th e Fort ,entering by the Delh i gate.

A narrow street leads to an inner

gatewhich opens into a chunk or square,where is the very beautiful Mosque ofVasir Khan. It was built in 163 4 byH ak im

’

Alau-din of Ch iniot , V azir

oftheEmperorShah Jchan. Th ebrick

walls are covered with beautiful inlaid

work called Kash i or Nakkashi . It is

a kind of mosaic ofglazed potte and

tiles. Thecolours of the tiles are urut

in, and they are set in hard mortar.

Over the noble entrance is written in

Persian, Remove thy h eart from the

gardens of the world, and know that

this building is the true abode ofman.

It was completed in th e reign of Shah

J ehan. Th e arch itect was H idayatu’

llah , the faithful servant of Vazir

Khan. In the centre front of th e

mos ue is theMoslem creed, and in

pane s along the facade are beautifullywritten verses from the Koran. A

Persian inscription gives the date 1646

A .D . From the gallery round th e

minaret , about 3 ft . broad, there is a

ver tine view over the city, which is

tru y Oriental and picturesaue.

Leaving themosque of azirKhan,

and proceeding along a street remarkable for balconies rich ly carved, the

visitor will come to the SonaiMusjid,or GoldenMosque, wh ich has threegiltdomes, and was built in 1753 A.D. byBikhwari Khan, a favourite of the

widow of MirMannu, a lady who

governed Lahore some time after her

husband’

s death . H e is said to have

displeasedthelad whosefemaleattendants beat h im to eath with theirshow

The situation of this mosque at the

junction of two streets is picturesque.

In a courtyard behind themosqueisa large well, with steps desce to

thewater’

s edge. It is said to have

ROUTE 12.

lugby Arjan, the fifth Guru. Passingdong th e narrow winding street, the

visitorwill now come to an open space

called the H iraMandi, whence is a fineview ofth eFort and theJummaMusjid;and turning to th e righ t, under a gate

way between the fort and themo us,

he w ill enter the pretty garden ca led

theHamri Bagh . On thert . (E. side) isthe h igh crenel latedwall oftheFort ,and

in its centre is the Akbari Darwazah

(or Hazuri Bagh Gate), built by theEmperor Akbar. It was formerly theentrance to the citadel,but isnowclosed.

Th e towers of th is buildingwill attract

at tention b thepeculiarity oftheirde

sign. Th e azuri Ba h forms an outer

court to t hemosque. n its centreis the

Barahdari, a beautiful vilion,built byRanjitwith wh itemarb e taken from thetombs of the Emperor Jchangir and theEmmess Nur Jchan at Shahdara.

On the farther (W . ) side of it is theJ ummaMusjid, raised on a lofty lat

form supportedby arches. A vast ight

of steps leads up to the gate of the

mosque. In a chamber above the

archwa are preserved the dusty relics

of th e ophet and h is family. Theyconsist of turbans of

’

A li and of h is

sons H asan and Husain,a cap with

Arabic writin on it , the rayer-carpet

ofFatima, a s ipper ofMo ammed, andthe mark of h is foot impressed in a

stone. There are also a vestment of

the Prophet , his prayer-carpet , and a

ge

l-in turban. Besides these there is a

of th e Prophet’

s heard, of a red

colour. There were a dozen formerly,but all h ave perished except th is one.

Th ere is also some red earth from Kar

bala. There is a decayed tooth , wh ich

is said to have belonged to one of the

Imams. The mos us was built byA urangzeb with the nds derived fromth e confi scated estates of h is eldest

bro ther Dara Sh ikoh , wh om he k illed.

I t h as consequently never been liked

as a.

1place of prayer. The revenues of

Moo tan were assigned for its

O v ertheentrance iswritten th

creed, and then in Persian the date

1 6 74.

O f the four minarets, all of wh ich

are disfigured by the loss of one story,only that to the S.W . is open. Th e

LAH ORE 203

cupolas were so much injured by an

earthquake that it was necessary to take

them down.

Themosque is built ofred sandstone,and the facade of themosque proper isbeautifully adorned with wh ite marbleflowers. It has 1 large and 10 smallerarchways facing the court, and is surmounted by 3 whitemarble domes.

The mosque is now very much ne

gleeted, from the reasons above de

scribed. Ranjit Sing made a magazineofit. Itsmagnifi cent proportions exciteadmiration, and the quadrangle beingovershadowed by fine trees produces anunusual and very leasing effect . Itwas not till 1856 t at the mosque wasrestored to theMohammedans as a placeofworsh ip.

On the N. side of the H azuri Baghare the cremation places of Ranj it, the

Samadh of Khark Sing, and of NauNihal Sing.

The glittering white building ratherout ofkee ingwith the solemnmosque,its neigh our, is the Ranjit Sing

’

s

Samadh , restored in part 1840. It

faces theW . wall of the Fort , and is

a square stucco building on a h igh

platform of marble. The ceilings are

decorated with traceries in stucco inlaidwithmirrors. Th earches ofthe interiorare of marble, but strengthened withbrick and chunam

, and clamped withiron, by order of Sir D.M‘Leod when

Lieut. -Governor of thePanjab. In thecentre is a raised platform ofmarble, onwh ich is a lotus flower carved inmarble,surrounded by eleven smaller flowers .

The central flower covers the ashes of

Ranjit ; the others those of fourwives

and seven concubines who became satisand underwent cremation with h is

corpse.

N. of this mausoleum, and by th e

side of the road leading from the

Roshanai Gate to the plain, outside

the Fort, is the Shrine of Arjan, thefi fth Guru, and compiler of the Adi

Gram ,which is read in Banjit

’

a Sam.

adh daily, in a huge volume overwhichattendants reverent ly wave chauries.

Facing th is building is the RoshanaiGate of the Port . A steep incline,made by the English , leads into the

interior, but before ascending it, the

204 norm : 12. nmsu m ro LAH OBE

attention of the visitor will be arrested

by the peculiar decoration of the wallsof the Palace of Akbar, which faces

him. The facade is inlaid with a

of encaustic tiles, representin

grotesque figures of men, horses, an

elephants, engaged in hunting, and

also the angels, who, according to old

Persian mythology, preside over the

days and months. In spandrels over

arcaded compartments in front of the

part of the palace attributed to J ehan

girare fourrepresentations oftherisingsun. O ther spandrels show cherubs

like those in Christian churches ,wh ich were rha borrowed from the

J esuit churo esta lished byPortuguese

missionaries at Lahore. In support ofth is it may be said that Bermermentions that J ehangir, in compliment tothemissionaries, placed an image oftheVirgin in a prominent position. It isworth wh ile walking round the wallsto the l . to study these designs.The Palace of Akbar is on the ex

treme E. of the Fort . To it succeedsa part built by Jchangir, and then a

curtain wall between two hexagonal

towers ascribed to Shah Jchan, to

which Aurangzib and the Sikhs madeadditions.

Ncar the top of the incline, l. , is theMotiMusjid, orPearlMosque, ofwhitemarble, with three domes. Over th e

arched entranceinto theoutercourt area Persian inscription and date corre

sponding to 1598 A .D . The innerdoorhas four largepadlocks and fourstrongchains. Ranjit Sin h kept h is treasurehere

, and theBritis use it for the same

pur 80. Several sentries are posted

in t e inner court, in the passage, andat the outer door.Proceeding to the E. , the visitorwill

come to a small Sikh temple built bythe order ofDulip Sing

’

s mother.C lose to theMotiMusjid is theShishMahal , or Palace ofMirrors, which is

the joint work of Shah Jchan and

Aurangzib. TheE. wall ofthis buildingdidnot exist inRanjit Singh

’

s time, andthere was an extensive court into whichhe used to pass from theMotiMo ue,through a handsome foldin oorstudded with gilt bosses .

8

In the centre of the W . side of the

India

quadrangle is a beautiful whitemarble

pavilion called Nau Lakh s, as it is

said to have cost 9 lakhs or rs .

Th is beautiful work of art is inlaid

after the fashion so well known at

A Between the pil lars on the S.

si s of the uadrangle walls have beenerected, an thus an Armoury (seebelow) has been formed.

TheShishMahal was theplace wh erethesovereignty ofthePanjabwas transferred to theBritish Government . H ere

too Ranjit Singh held h is receptions.

In the small rooms leading to theuppertower the ceilings are cut into geo

metrical patterns. Thesepaintings andthemirror work with wh ich th e wallsand ceilings are ornamented were

done by the Sikhs, and ill agree with

the chaste beauty of theMogul architecture. The windows look out to

wards the Badami Garden to the N.

On this plainRanjit Singh used to holdreviews. There used to be fountainsin the centre of the quad lo, and

theirbasin still remains. Eggs inlaidwork ofthepavilion therewereformerlyvaluable stones, but these have beenall picked out .

In the Armoury the visitor will remark theround sh ield ofGuruGovind.

It is of rhinoceros hide, and has a

single boss. H is battle-axe is alsoshown, the blade of which is of

fine Damascus steel. H ere too willbe seen the arms taken from the Sikh sby the English some of the helmetsare inscribed Aksl Sipah i. Th e longgauntleted swords are merely used infencing. There are many cuirasses

wh ich belon ed to the regiments commended byFrench officers, with brasscock s upon them. Th ere are also ringsofsteel which were used as missiles inwar, particularly by the Akalis . Thecrests of these soldiers, called Jikara,in the shape ofa bar passing throughtwo semicircles , and crowned with a

ball , are exh ibited. There are alsosome cannon with barrels which turn

like those ofa revolver, and a numberofcamel guns and an obus

, inscribedin Persian, Fath ya shah id, 1815.

Victory or death . Many coats ofmail will also be observed.

Parallel with the tower of the Shish

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

ROUTE 1 3 .

tle E. and W . sides are the 99 namesdGod, most beautifully carved, and ontie S. side is inscribed, Th e GloriousTomb of H is H igh Majesty, Asylumo‘

Protectors, Nuru-din Muhammad,heEmperor Jchangir,

”

1627 A .D. Onbe four sides are exquisite screens oflattice-work .

J ust outside the entrance, and to theligh t ofit, is a staircasewhich leads upto the flat square roofof the building,covered with a ifi cent tassellated

pavement . At eac corner is a minaret , 95 ft. h igh from th eplatform. A

marble parapet ran round the pave

ment, but was taken awa

yby Ranjit

Singh ; it is being gradua ly restored.

The minarets are four stories high ,and are built of magnifi cent blocks of

stone 8 ft . long. From the top thereis a fine view to the S.E. over the Ravito the city.

The Tomb of Asaf Kh an,brother of

the Empress Nur Jchan, stands in an

enclosure immediately to theW . of th esarai. It is an octagon surmounted

LAHO RE TO PESH AW AR

ROUTE 13

LAH ORE TO PESH AW AR (N.W . Rly. )bya dome. It has been utterly ruined Lahore to Peshawar is 278 m. by theand almost entirely stripped of the North -W estern Railway, and the timelovely Nakkash i work which once occupied in transit 17 hours .

adorned it. In the portals some frag 5 m. Shah Dara sta. The tomb of

ments still remain to show h ow glori th e Emperor Jchangir, 11 111. off, is deous it once was. The cenotaph is ofwhitemarble. The Tughra writing on

it is extremely fine, and resembles thatonthe tomb ofJchangir.

Before crossing the railway, is seen r.

thetomb ofNur J ehan, wife ofJ ehan

gir, a plain building ofone story, withour main arches and eigh t oblongO

penings in the centre, with three rows

0 arches beyond. It is in ruins.

18m. W . of Lahore is Shekohpura,the hunting-seat of Dara Shikoh , theeldest brother ofAurangzib.

The road crosses the bridge over theRavi, and at about 4 m. enters a drearytract of long and

'

ungle. Abridgeover the gh Bachcha, a branchoftheRavi, is then passed. A tManodialiRoad Chauk i there is a goodD.B. ,

standing 100 yds. back from the roadon thert . , with a pretty lit tle garden.

Herehorses are changed.

On the l . of the road is a gardenhouse, built by Rani Nakyana, queenofRanjit Sing. At the S.W . corner of

scribed on p. 206.

42 m. Gujranwala sta. (R. ) D.E

Th is is the birth lace ofRanjit SinghAt 1» m. beyon the station is the

Samadhq aha Sing,fatherofthegreat

Ranjit . It is an octagonal building, 81

ft . h igh to the top of the gilt ornamenton the summit. W ith in are the sculptured rosettes or knobs wh ich markwhere theashes aredeposited. The large

rosette surrounded by twelve smaller

ones, is inscribed Sarkar Ranjit Sing.

That nearest the entrance is inmemoryof a blue pigeon that fell down into

the flames in wh ich Ranjit and h is concubines were being consumed. O ther

rosettes mark the ashes ofMaha SingPadshah ,Maharaj Sh erSing, andSarkarNau Nihal Sing Ji. There is a narrow

but lofty pavilion, coveredwith mythological pictures, amongwh ich is one re

presenting Duryodhana orderingDrau

padi to be stri ped. As that as th e

clotheswerepul ed offhershewas super

naturally re-clothed. At 100 yards to

thegarden is herSamadh , an octagonalbuilding. The walls are painted withH indumythological pictures. That infront is of Krishna dancing the Raemandal with theGopis. Over the dooris a picture of the ten Gurus, with an

inscription. Across the road is a veryclean and comfort able house wh ich belongs to the Raja, and is lent by h imto travellers.The village of Shekohpura contains

a fine old fort .

There is good shooting here. About3 m. from the town is a large tank

surrounded by fligh ts of ate 8 with a

th ree-storied bamhdari in t e centre.

A tall minaret stands near an entrance

gateway N. of the tank .

som e 13 . muons: 'ro Pnsnawan

theE. is thelpavilion ofMaha Sing, a

handsomebu’

ding,nowusedas thereading andmestin room of the Anjumanof the town. 0 ose to themarket-placeis the house where Ranjit was born.

N.E. of the town is the Barahdm-i,orpavilion, ofBanjit

’

afamous general ,H ari Sing. It stands in 40 acres of

garden and grounds. To the E. is a

pavilion 12 ft. h’

h , full of smallniches for lamps. n the E. wall is a

painting of warriors and elephants,now almost gone. At 70 yds. to the

N. of the house is the samadh ofB ari

Sing. A number of trees have grownthrough the platform and are breakingit up. At theS.W . corner is a pavilion

in wh ich countless green parrots h ave

theirnests. Theplacewhere the ashes

lie is marked by a knob shaped like a

budding flower. There are no sati

knobs. The first picture on the wall

inside is a portrait ofH ari Sing hawk

ing, with a string of ducks passingover h is head. The district is famousfor oranges.

62m.Wazirabadjunc. D.B .

inhab.) From here a line runs

N.E. to Sialkot andJ mnmoo(seebelow).Th is place, founded by W azirKhan in

therei ofShah Jchan, became, underthe e of Ranjit Singh,

the head

quarters ofGeneral Avita ile, who built

a 001

13“m new town on the lan of

a lelogram, and surround by a

wa l. A broad bazaar runs from end

to end. Close to the town is one of

themost famousgardens in thePanjab,laid out by DewanThakurDas Ch opra.

At Wazirabad is.the great A lexandra

Bridge over the Chenab, Opened in

1876 by the Prince ofW ales.

The Chenab is here a most diffi cultstream to deal with . The floods rise

11 ft. above low-water level, and the

velocity of the current then exceeds

10 m. an h our. The stream is morethan 50 ft . deep, and drives the sand

in alldirections but the trainingworks

in connection with the bridge have

modified the action of the river and

confined it .

[An expedition may be made bybranch line fromWazirabad to

27 m. Bialkot sta. ,D.B . A townwith

military station 1m. N. (inhab.

The Ghu/reli is a striking object , havinga steeple 150 ft. high . There is also a

fort . The rly. continues to

52 m. J ummoo sta. , D.E. This isthe winter capital of the Jummoo andCashmere state, wh ich extends over

an area of sq. m. ,with a pop.

(1891) of persons. See

Cashmere, p. 215.

The O ld Palace at Jummoo, at theE. , close to the city wall , has no pre

tensions to beauty. It is entered bya lar

ge irregular quadrangle, on the

rt. si s of which is a vast reception

room. The verandah of the smalldining

-room overlooks the Tavi, and

beyond the riverare h ills covered with

jungle, in wh ich aremany wild beasts

To theN.W . of the city is a Pagoda

covered with plates of copper-

gilt. A

litt le to the E. of it is the new lace

wh ich wasbuilt forthePrinceof ales'

s

visit. Close by to the E. is th e old

parade-ground, with the h ospita l and

college to the S.E. The Gamit Gateway is that by which the city is

entered fromthe S. in coming fromtheriver Tavi. A short distance before

reach in it is the ch ief temple. 2m.

S. of t is gate is a fine garden be

longing to theMaharaja. From the

Gumit Gate there is a descent of 70 ft.down a rough road paved with stones,

then thepath lies throu h thick woods.

Themuch frequents trade-route to

Srina

garand theCashmere valley starts

from ummoo (see Rte. 13A ).

71m. Gujrat sta. Th

flretty town

is the administrative h quarters of

a district of the same name. The

town inhab. ) stands on the

ancient site of 2 earlier cities . The

second, according to General Cunningh am, was destroyed in 1303 A.D . Two

centuries after this Sher Shah was in

ion of the country, and either

a orAkbar founded the present town.

Akbar’

s fort stands in the centre of

the town. It was first garrisoned byGujars, and took the name of GujratAkbarabad. Akbar

’

s administrativerecords are still reserved in the families of the he itary registrars. In

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

210 ROUTE 13 .

fort, but the are now nearly all in

ruins. The S isha Gate (an innergate)was so called from the H arim’

s H all of

Mirrors, which adjoined it . ]

157 m. Labani sta. (a flag-station

only) is the nearest point to Manikyala Tops , which is 2 m. distant . 1

[Manikyala was first noticed byMountstuart Elph instone in 1815, andafterwards thorough ly exploredbyGen.

Venture in 1830. In 1834 the stupa

was e lored by Gen. Court , and 30

years a terby Gen. Cunningham. The

date is uncertain. There are coins

takenfromit ofKanishkaandHuvishka,which date from the b

'

uning of the

C hristian era, but with t cm was found

a coin of Yaso Varmma, who reigned

not earlier than 720 A .D . , and manysilver Sassano-Arabian coins of the

same period. Cunningham th ink s thatthe stupa ma have been ori

'

nallybuilt by H uvishka, who deposits coins

of h is own reign and of his predecessor

Kanish ka, and that thestupa havingbe

come ruinous was rebuilt in its presentmassive form by Yaso

-Varmma, who

redeposited the relic caskets wi th the

addition ofa gold coin of h imself andseveral contemporary coins of Arab

governors.

The dome of the stupa is an exact

hemisphere, 127 ft . in diameter. The

outer circle measures 500 ft . in circumference, and is ascended by four fligh tsof steps, one in each face

,leading to a

procession path 16 ft. in width ,orna

mented both above and below by a

range of dwarf pilasters, re resentingthe detached rail of the ol er Indianmonuments.Mr. Fergusson says :

“It is, indeed,one of themost marked ch aracteristics

of these Gandhara topes that none of

them possess, or ever seem to have

possessed, any trace ofan independentrail ; but all have an ornamental beltofpilasters, joined generally by arch essimulating the original rail. This canhardl be an early arch itectural form

,

and eads to the suspicion that , inspite of th eir deposits, th eir outward1 Cunningh am

'

s A rch . Rep. vol . 11. p. 152 ;Fergu son’

s H'

o

“W, vol . m

utt. of A rch J ames Prinscp s

LAH OBE TO PESH AWAR Indi a

casingmay be very much moremodernthan the coins they contain.

”

The circular gallery which run s.

round the great stupa is 6 ft . 2 in .

from the ground, and 10 ft . broad .

The row of pilasters that 0 round th e

hemis hereare 4 ft . h igh . hebuildingis ma e of round rough stones, a foo t

in diameter, and the mortar is of an

inferior kind. The whole was faced

with smooth stones. The opening or

tunnel made by Gen. Ventura is on th e

E. side, facing thepresent path toManikyala. The stones were not disturbed ,

but the tunnel was dug under th em.

A t 2 m. to theN. of Ventura’

s tope

is Court’

s tops. H ere the earth is of

a brigh t red colour, and therefore

Cunningham identifies this stupa with

that mentioned by H iouen Th sang as“the stupa of the body-ofl

'

ering ;wh ile at 1000 ft. to theS. ofit is H iouen

Thsang’

s stupa ofthe blood-offering,

”

wh ich that pilgrim ignorantly attri

buted to its being stained with the

blood of Buddha, who, according to a

curious legend, is said to have offered

his body to ap the hungerofseven

tiger cubs. he stupa of the bodyoffering was opened by Gen. Court,who found in a stone niche, covered

by a large inscribed slab, three cylindrical caskets of copper, silver, and gold,each containingcoins ofthesamemetalfourgold coins of Kanerke were found

in the gold box in the silver box were

seven silver Roman denarii of the last

years of the Republic, the latest beingM. Antonius Triumvir, and therefore

not earlier than 43 The eight

copper coins in the copper box wereall

Indo-Scyth ian, belonging to Kanishka

and his immediate predecessors.

The inscription has been deciphered

and translated byMr. Dowson, who

made out the date to be the eigh teenth

year ofKanishka, and that it was the

record of the monastery of the Huts

Murta, or body oblation, including,of course, the stu a in which th e in

scription was foun

Cunningham ran trenches across the

mound, wh ich now represents themouastery , and brough t to ligh t the outer

walls and cells of the monks, forminga square of 160 ft . In themiddlewere

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

ROUTE 13A .

dolesfar nicnte in themat house-boatsmoored under the shady chenar tree.

”

The po ulation of the valley is

0 whom inhabit thecapital, Srinagar. TheMohammedansnumber757 ,000, andtheH indusTheH indus worsh ip the likeness ofH erMajesty the Queen Empress. Theyregard as divine the sovereign defacto,but in the case of theMogul Aurungzebtheymade anexception,and h is likenesswas never worsh i ped, for he was a

persecutor ofthe indus.

History.—Formany centuries Cash

mere was ruled by H indu princes, whowere succeeded by Tartars. In 1587t he country was conquered by thegreatMogul Akbarandannexed to h is IndianEm ire. Akbar built the fort on H ari

Par at hill . H is successor, J ehangir,made many expeditions to Cashmere,where he planted chenar trees, and

constructed lovely pleasure gardens.

In 1753 Cashmerepassed into thehandsof the Durani Chiefs from Cebu] , and

in 1819 Ranjit Sing’

s general, MisserChand, defeated the Patan Governor,J abharKhan, andannexed the country.

In 1846, after the overthrow ofthe Sikh

rule by the British Government , Cashmere was assigned by treaty to Golab

Sin

Agntiquities. The ch ief ruins of

Cashmere are those at Martand,Avantipore, Pandritan,

and the little

temple at Payseb. The exhibit traces

of Greek in ncnoc, an are of great

archmological interest .The Coins of Cashmere are worthy

ofnotice.

1

There are many Passes into Cashmere, mostly from the S. andW . The

following are themost frequented

1. From Rawal Pindi 'vid Murree(p. and the Baramula Pass.

2. From Gujrat (p. 209) via Bhimber and Pir Panjal (see p.

3. From J helum (p. 209) via Punch(see p.

4 . From H asan Abdal via Abbotsbad (p. 212) (see p.

CASHMERE

5 . From J ummoo 208(p

(1)Murmur; Rom TO Casn

Rawal PindiBy tongs. to

25 m. Tret a short37 m. Murree (H otel)

Bid !) to

64 m. Kohala wal, 18

stead of 29 m.

75 m. Dulal85 m. Domel99 m. Garh i108m. Batti.119; m.

188m.

146m.

162m.

195 m.

The above are easyare intermediate baltinis a D. B . at everywith a Khansama

plies.

The usual time fordays, but it can be acdays fromMurree.

It is advisable toRawal Pindi in orderments for the journey.

The road is well

1 If th e traveller intends toSrina r, it will be necessary for h m to get 3cam

‘

t , ponies, etc. Al l th is canbeamnsed

at rinagar, or by writing beforehand“3Cockburn

’

s Agency, Srinagar.

2 Travellers wh o observe cruelty practised

upon th e tongs h orses are requestedinfor1 The best book on the subject is Coins of ward a written complaint to the EnslflKashmir, byMr. Rogers ofAmritsar. Resident at Srinagar.

servants or baggage for 22 rs. These

pricegare from Rawal Pindi to Stin

agar.

If the traveller intends tointo Cashmere by stages he can engage

1coolies at 4 an. a stage, baggageponies

at 12 an. a stage, and riding ponies

with saddles at 2 rs. a stage.

Theroad ascends steadily fromRawalPindi to

37 m. Murree 10: (see p. 211) (7700ft . and then begins to descend until

the J helum River is reached at

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

224 ROUTE 14 .

square ; above th is is an octagthe heigh t of the square, and above

that a hemis herical dome. The son

of Bhawal akk , whose name was

Sadru-din, is buried in the sametomb.

The cenote h is adorned with brigh t

green tiles . ppothe vestibule, 18 the tomb of NawabMuzafi’

ar Khan.

About 2m. to the N. of the Fort is

the Idgah in wh ich Vans Agnew and

Anderson were murdered in 1848. It

h as been restored to theMohammedansas a place ofworsh ip.

TheTomb of Sh ams-i-Tabriz stands

1 m. to the E. of the Fort on the h ighbank of the old bed of the Ravi. The

main body of the tomb is a square sur

rounded by a verandah with seven

openings in each side. Above is an

octa on surmounted by a hemispherical fome covered with glazed sky-blue

tiles. Th ewhole heigh t is 62 ft. The

saint lived in the time of Shah J ehan.

To the left of the entrance is a smallsquare building, dignified with the

name of the Imambarah .

[Excursion to Dera Ghazi Khan.

Rly. via 12 m. Sher Shah junc. , 37 m.

Mahmud Kat to 47m. Ghazi Ghat . sta.

The Chenab, about 1 m. broad, is

crossed at Sher Shah , on a splendid

bridge of 172 00 ft . girders. GhaziGhat sta. is on the 1. bank of the Indus, which has to be crossed to

Dera Ghazi Kh an, amunicipal town,

LAH O RE TO KARACH I India

on half wh ence the Sind-Sanger Rly. branchesofl

’

W . and N.

269 m. AdamwahanBridge, 4224 ft .

long, carries the Indus Valley Rly.

across the Sutlej river. The heigh t of

the roadway above the stream is 28 ft.272 m. Bahawalpur sta. (junc. for

site, in the corner of Batinde and thenceforUmballa, Delhi,or Rewari) D.B . , is a town with about

inhabitants, and the ca ital ofanativestateunderthepolitical tionof the government of the Panjab. Itsarea is about sq. m. ,

with a

of nearly of whom four itheareMohammedan. The language is amixture of Sindi and Panjabi. TheNawab ofBahawalpurrank s on the listofPanjab chiefs next afterPatiala . His

ancestors came from Sind, and assumedinde ndence after the first expulsion

of S a Shuja from Kabul .In 1847—48, Bhawal Khan, the then

Nawab, assisted Sir Herbert Edwardesduring theMooltan rebellion, forwh ichhe was rewarded with a life-pension of

a lakh of rs. and the’

ft of the districts of Sabzalkot an Bhaungbara.

H is son, S’

aadat Khan, was expelledby his elderbrother, and died a refugee

in British territory in 1862. In 1863

and 1865 rebell ions broke out , but were

crushed by the Nswab, who died soon

after.

Palace of theNawab, wh ich is to th eE. of the town, cost about

It is a square pile, with towers at each

corner. In the centre is a hall for

holdingreceptions. Thereis a fountain

and headquarters of a district of thesame name, containing an area of 4877sq. m. The city was founded bya Baluch chief named Ghazi Khan in the upper rooms. Ascending to theMak rani in 1475 A .D. The district roof, the visitor will have an extensive

consists of a narrow atri of land be viewE. towards the vast Desert of Bicktween the Indus and t e Sulaiman sneer which stretches, waterless, awayMountains. The sigh ts of the place for 100m.

are some large and striking mosques, There is a H ome Farm, where are

the chief ofwhich are those of Ghazi many fine animals, part icularly broodKhan, Abdu

’

l Jawar, and ChutaKhan. mares.

in front . At the sideare underground

rooms where the th ermometer remainsat wh ile it rises from 100

°

to 110°

The civil and military cantonments areW . of the town, which is the h ead

quarters ofthe C hurchMedicalMissionto the Baluchis. )Resuming thejourney fromMooltan,

the line reaches. for troops

The J ail is to the E. of the town.

Following the course of the Indus,through an uninteresting tract, the

rly. reaches

417 m. Reti sta. (R. ) A m t-campbetween Karachi and Lahore

218 m. Sher Shah junc. sta., D.B . , has been established here. 4 m. S. of

ROUTE 14.

lleti are th e vast ruins of Vquot, a

driefcity before theMohammedanConuest. A month of theE. Nara Cana le below) is crossed 2m. before reach

hg Rohri, and from Roh ri runs due S.

through Khairpur, and enters the TharParkardistrict . Seen from a distance,Rohri h as a striking appearance ; thehouses being four and five stories h ighwith flat roofs surrounded by balustrades.

487 m. Rohri sta. D.E. , a munieipel town (pop. the capital ofa subdistrict of the same name, wh ichhas an area of 4258 sq. m. It is on

the left, or E. bank of the Indus, ona rock eminence of limestone, intersperse with flints. It is said to havebeen founded by Saiyad Ruknu dinShah in 1297 A .D. , which was morethan 300 years after the Indus desertedits former bed at Alor and came to

Roh ri. The rocky site of Rohri endson th e W . side in a precipice 40 ft .

h igh , rising from the river bank . In

the la tter part of the rains the water

rises 16 ft . above its lowest level.

Th e J ummaMasiid is a fine buildinof red brick, with three domes, an

coated with glazed porcelain tiles. A

Persian inscription records that it was

built by Fath Khan, an offi cer of the

Emperor Akbar, about th e year 1572A.D. One of the sigh ts of the laceis theMuiMubarak , or “hair 0 the

Proph et , in th is case a hair and a h alf.They are set in amber and preserved ina gold tube adorned with rubies. Itis said th at theW arMubarak , a building 25 ft. square, on the N. of the

town, was erected about 1545 byMirMuh ammad for the reception of these

hairs. It appears they were brough t

from Constantinople by one Abdu’

l

Baki, wh ose descendants have still the

keeping of them. Th e’

Idgah was

erected in 1593 A .D., byMirMuhammad

M’asum. Near Rohri are three forestscovering acres, or about 90

m., wh ich were planted in 1820 by the

Talpur Amirs, and are now under the

RETI,s onar 225

Opposite to Rohri, in the Indus, is

the Island qfKhwajah Khizr. H ere is

a mosque of great apparent antiquity.

It has an inscription, the date 952 A .D.

The shrine of Kh izr, who was alsocalled Zindah Pir, or

“the livin

saint ,”

is venerated by H indus an

sq. Mohammcdans alike.

A little to the S. of the isle ofKhizrcontrol of the SindForest Department . is the larger Island of Bh akk ar. It is

i m . from Rohri at the mouth of

[India]

a limestone rock ofoval sha e, 800yds.long, 300 yds. wide, and a out 25 ft.

Q

the Eastern Nara Canal , 156 ft . wide,are the powerful Sluice Gates which

galate the sup ly ofwater from the

Indus. W hen t ese gates are closed

during inundations it83

is a wonderfulsigh t to see the fish trying topass them.

Millions collect on these occasions, andinattempting to leap the falls, fall backinto common Indian cots, made ofrope,which are suspended from the arches ofthe regulator. The fishing 1s let out byyearly contract and yields a handsomerevenuetoGovernment and local funds.

[Excursione

toAlor.— W hileat Rohri,

a visit ma “wh

aid'

to the very ancienttown ofA or, w

"

ch 1s only 5 m. distantto the E. This was the ca ital of theH indu Rajah s of Sind, an was takenfrom them by theMohammedans, underMuhammad Kasim,

about 711 A .D. Atthat time the Indus washed the city of

A lor, but was diverted from it b

earthquake about 962 at w ichtime the river entered its presentchannel.

The road from Rohri passes over a

bridgeabout 600ft . long,which 1s acrossthe ancient channel of the Indus. Onthe farther side is a village with about100 inbah . , and from this an extensive

ridge ofruins runs in a N.E. direction.

That which bears thename of'

AlamgirsMosque 18 picturesque. Two of themare shrines, one to Shakar nj Shahand the other to

to

Kutba in Shah .

To the former tomb people of theneighbourin villages still make pil

grimages. ft has no dome or build1ngover it , but is a plain, wh ite, neat

tombstone, with a border of carvedflowers ]

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

ROUTE 16. rrzaasn— asonnva

Civil Station cantonments andenvironsarebeautifully wooded with innumeralie tamarind, mango, and other trees.

lleMuseum is interesting.

It is a short drive by Port Calcutta,whencewill be seen the bridges over theGogra, to the Gupta Park , which is

prettily laid out . A t the S. and of the

prk is a temple, where they se Ramsappeared. Th efirst Nawab o Oudh ,S’

aadat’

Ali Khan, seldom resided at

l’

yzabad, though it was h is nominalcapital, nor did h is successor Safdarlang ; but in 1776 Shuja

’

u-dauleh ,who succeeded, took up h is permanent

residence there. W hen defea ted at

a ar he fled to Fyzabad and con

structed the lofty entrenchment whoseramparts of rammed clay frown over

the Go rs , and have been renderedfamous y th e oratory of Burke andSheridan. At h is death , in 1775, hisWidow

, the Babu Begam, remained atFZlbad

, wh ile Asafu-daulah , the then

swab, removed to Lucknow.

[8 m. Aiodh ya sta. Sanscrit

flyitdhya, on the banks of the Gogra,is

O

Where the t Ram Chandra once

plgned. In t eGazetteer of Oudh , vol.1.p. 2, it is said th at this town is to theHinduwhatMecca is to theMohammedans and J erusalem to the J ews.

Theancient city is said to have coveredanarea of 48 kos, or 96m. and to h avebeen the capital of Koabala, the re

splendent ,”the country of the Solar

raceof kings, ofwh omMann was thefirst. Fergusson says that from th ispltyAyuth ia, the ca ital ofSiam, takesits name. It is oubtful for wh atreason th e Solar race dispersed, but itis certain th at on leaving

'

odhya theancestors of the rulers of odeypore,J odhpur, and other Rajput citieswandered with th eir followers over

India, until they at last settled in

Raj utana. For some centuries theBu dhista, under Asoka and hissuccessors, were supreme. Vikramajitls said to have restored Brahmanism

,

andto have traced the ancient city bythe holy river Sarju, which was theancient name of the Gogra, and toh?" indicated the shrines to wh ichilgrim still flock. Tradition saysPthat Vikram ruled for 80 years, and

was succeeded by the Jogi SamundraPal, who spirited aw

aytheRajah

’

s soul

and entered his ho y. H e and h is

successors ruled for 643 years. Th is

dynasty was succeeded by a J ain

dynasty, the Shri Bastam family, andthese again by the Kanauj dynasty.

A copper grant of Jai Chand, the last

of the Kanauj Rathore, dated 1187

A .D . , was found near F zabad. Th is

date is six years before is death (seeA s. Soc. J owm . vol. x. part i.

Koabala was the cradle of Buddh ism,

for Shakya Muni, its founder, was

born at Kapila, in th e Gorakhpur

district , and preached at A'

odhya.

H ere, too, was born Bikh eh eo, of

Ik shwaku’

s royal race, wh o founded

the J ain faith . The Ch inese traveller,H iouen Theang found at Ajodhya 20Buddhistmonasteries with 3000monks .

According toh im, the celebratedTooth

brush Tree ofBuddha grew here.

The road from Fyzabad cantonmentto Ajodhya (4 m. ) is excellent, and

it may be foundmore convenient th anthe railway. On entering Ajodhya,turn to the left up a narrow street to a

place where there are a few shops ;then turn again to the left, and ascend

some steps, oppositeMan Sing’

s h ouse,to a platform, where is th e JanamSth an Temple. In the sanctum, the

door of wh ich has a silver frame, are

images of Sita and Ram. Ram has

a gleaming jewel of large size, wh ich

looks like a ligh t-coloured sapph ire.

The temple is an oblong of about

200 ft . x 150 ft. The walls are 45 ft .

high , and seem strong enough for a

fortress ; which justifies its name of

H anumcmGarh ,“H anuman

’

s fortress.

”

It is also called Ramkot, and is said tobe of Aurangzib

’

s time. The neigh

bouring trees swarm with middle-sized

gray monkeys ofgrave demeanour.

To theN.W . is the temple ofKanakBh awan, or Sone Ka Garh , with ima es

of Site and Ram crowned with go d,wh ence the name Fortress of Gold.

”

This is said to be the oldest templehere.

The Janam 8than, or place where

Ram Chandra was born, is 5 111. W . of

the H anuman Garh . C lose to the

door, and outside it, is aMohammedan

250 ROUTE 16.

cemetery, in which are buried 75Mohammedans who were killed in a

figh t with theH indus for thepossession

of the tem le in 1855 . Up to that

time both indus andMohammedans

used to worship in the temple. SinceBritish rule a railing has been put up,with in wh ich theMoh ammedans pray.

Outside, the H indus make their offerings. The actual J amm Sthan is a

plain masonry platform, just outside

the mosque or temple, but with in the

enclosure, on the left-hand side. The

rimeval temple perished, but was re

uilt by Vikram, and it was his templethat theMohammedans converted intoa mosque. Europeans are expected to

take off their shoes if they enter th e

building, which is quite m, with the

exception of twelve blac pillars taken

from the old temple. On the pillar on

the left of the door on enterin may beseen the remains ofa figure w ich ap

pears to be eitherKrishna oran A ra.

At about 1 m. to the of

Janam Sthan is Swarga Dwara, or

Ram Ghat, where Rama bathed ; and

one-eigh th ofamile to the S.W . of it is

Lak shman’s Ghat , where Lakshman,

thehalf-brotherofRama, used to bathe.

1 m. to the S. ofH anuman Garh is theMani Parbat, and to its S . again is the

Kweer Parbat and Sugniv Parbat, h ill

ocks of t antiquity. TheMauiParbat ill is 65 ft . h igh , and is

covered with broken bricks and block s

ofmasonry. The brick s are 11 in. sq.

and 3 in. th ick . At 46 ft . above th e

ground, on theW . side, are the remainsof a curved wall faced with Ka

'

nkar

blocks . To th e S.,at th e distance of

500 ft . , is the Kuver Parbat , 28 ft.

high . The h istory of thesemounds isobscure, and the traditions concerningthem are conflicting. Cunninghamsupposes that the great monasterydescribed by H iouen Th sang is the

Sugriv Parbat , wh ich is 560 ft . longby 300 ft . broad, and that theMauiParbat is the Stu a ofAsoka, built on

th e s ot where uddh a preached th elaw uring h is six years

’

residence atSak eta.

Near the Lakshman Gh at is a largemodern temple, built by the Rajah ofBhrrya. 300 yds. from this is a hill

SAHARANPUR TO H OG-UL BABAI India

90 ft. high , with a small J ain templesacred to Adinath . At the Swarga

Dwara are the vast ruins of a mosque,with an iron post 21 in. long and 6 in .

broad and two minarets 40 ft . h igh .

They are probably of the time of

Aurangzib. ]

484m. J AUNPUR City sta . (R. D.E.

(Th ere are 2 stations at Jaunpur— th e

Civil Lines , or Zafarabad sta. is 4 m.

farther on. )Jsumpur is a place ofmuch interest,

and was the capital of an independentMoh ammedan kingdom (the Sharki

dynasty) from 1397 -1478, and retained

a partial independence until finallycon uered by Akbar. The first thin

gto e seen is the famous Bridge

over the Goomti, erected by A kbar.

It consists of 10 spans besides th ose

standing on the land ; the middle

group of 4 being larger than th e 3 at

each end. It was designed by’

Afzal’

A li, a Kabuli arch itect, at the expense

ofMunim Khan, one of Akbar’

s h

oflicers. It is constructed princi yof stone, and was commenced in 1664

and completed in 1568. Formerlythere were sh ops on either side, but

these were destroyed durin th eflood

of 1774. It is said to ve cost

Approach ing it from the

C ivil Lines an what was formerlythe cantonments, the travellerbeneath the lar gates of the Bard ,

on the first 0 wh ich is recorded

the “Flood Level at th is point in

1774 during th e great inundation,

when most of the minor h ouses were

swept away. The water rose to a

heigh t of 18 ft.

Some 200yds. to th eN. afterc

the brid and not far from the

Ofi ce an Town Ha ll, is theN. entrance

of the Atala Musjid,erected on the

1 Someofthepiers and arch es areinscribed.and h ave been fully dealt with in a. volumeublished byFuhrerand Smith oftheArchoolnrvey of India entitled the Sharfi d rehmdw eof l ow er (Triibner).

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

256 some 17 . LEAKSAR J UNCTION 'ro naanwan, mo.

and two fl ing figures. On thepedestalis a whee with a lion on either side.

Gangadwara is celebrated in the

Puranas as the scene of Daksha’

s

sacrifi ce, to wh ich he n looted to invite Shiva, the husband 0 h is daugh ter

Sati. Sati attended the sacrifi ce in

spite of Shiva’

s warning not to do so,

and was so shocked at her father’

s

disrespect that she went to the bank

of the Gauges and by her own splen

dour consumed her body. Enraged at

Sati’

s death , Sh iva produced Vira

Bhadra, who cut off Daksha’

s head

and threw it in the fire. Shiva restored

Daksh a to life, but as his head had

been consumed, replaced it with that ofagoat orram. The spot whereDaksha

is supposed to have prepared his sacrifi ce 18 now marked by the Temple ofDaksheshwara, a form of Sh iva. It is

at the S. end ofKankhal, 2; m. below

the bathing ghat. Around the templeare several smallerones, ofno interest . )Returning to Lhaksar, the line con

tinues N.W . to

11 m. Roorkee sta., D.E. (seep.

33 m. Saharanpore sta. (see p.

There is a good carriage road fromhere to Dehra Dun (42 m. ) 6 m.

farther at Rajpore, at th e foot of the

h ills, the cam s e must be abandoned

for jhampan, and or ony. An

ascent ofabout 4m. rings t e traveller

toMussoorie.

ThereareD.Be. at thefollowingplaces

en route : 15 m. Futtehpore ; 28 m.

Mohun 35m. Assaroree 42m. Dehra

Dun ; 48 m. Rajpore. The journeyfromSaharanpore toMussoorie occupies13 hrs.

Dehra Dun (or Doon) D.B . is the

capital of the Dehra Dun district .

Dehra itself inhab. ) is prettilysit uated in the midst of a mountainvalley, 2300ft . above sea

-level. It was

founded by Guru Ram Rai, who settledin the Dun at the end of the 17th

century. H is temple, in the style of

themausoleumoftheEm ror J changirat Shah Dera, forms the c iefornamentof the town. To theW . is the cantonment . There are an English church , amission of the American PresbyterianC hurch , and various chapels.

In the earliest ages of H indu legend

India

Dehra Dun formed part of a region

known as Kedarkhand, the abode of

Sh iva from whom also the Siwalik

H ills are called. H ere Rama andhis

brother are said to have done penance

for k illing Ravana, and here the five

Pandus stopped on th eir way to the

snowy range where they immolatedthemselves. Authentic h istory knows

noth ing of Dehra till the 17th cen

tury. Ram Rai, who was drivenfromthePanjab and theGurush iponaccountofdoubts as to h is legitimacy, fourdedDeh ra. In 1757 Najibu Dauhh,Governor ofSaharanpore, occu iadthe

Dun, but he died in 1770, w en the

country was swept b various invaders

Last of all came t e Gurkhas, with

whom the British went to war in

November 1814. At the end of 1815

the Gurkhas ceded the country to the

British , who h ad easily occu ied

Dehra, and taken th e strong 1]

fortress of Kalanga after 3. ant

defence, in wh ich Sir Rolo Gi espie,a gallant soldier wh o sup reseed the

mutiny at Vellore, was ed. There

is a monument to the slain a short

distance from Dehra. Those of the

garrison who survived entered the

service of Ra'

it, and died to a manin battlewith t 0 Afghans. It isprob

able th at the inhabitants have trebled

since the introduction of British rule

The climate ofDehra is excellent.Theapproach toMussooriefromDehra

18 by Rajporext: (6 a large native

village, and at an elevation of about

3000 ft. The road from Rajpore toMussoorie is very steep.

About half way up is J ampani,a halting

-

place where there is water

a bazaar ; and here, at an eleva

tion of 5000 ft . , are the first houses of

European residents.

4 m. Mussoorie, at: a hill station,

andLandaur, theadjacent ConvalescentDepfit for British troops, are situated

upon one of the outer ran of the

H imalayas, wh ich lie to the ofDebi?

Dun. The h ill on wh ich Mussoorle19built rises from the lains in theformofa horse-sh oe, gradua ly ascendingtot

he

centre, and enclosing in the hollow 8

number ofridges wh ich lose themselves

in the mass above. Ridges also run

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

RO UTE 19 . ENGLISH BAZAR— GAUR

thestationare theCollector’

s Offi ce and was the seat of thriving cotton and

otherpublic buildings. Not far fromtherly. sta. are remains of a buildingcaledtheSangi Dalan,

“hall ofstone.

It is 100 ft . Io'

ng from N. to S andhe three doors of black basalt in thecentre. Th is is said to have been partofthepalace of Sultan Shuja, son ofJehangir, and Governor ofBehar.

TheMarina, Tank is 2m. dueW . of

tie Cettcherry. A t its S. end is a

nassivebrick building, with an Arabicinscription in the Tu hra character ;and 100 yds. to the is th eMainaMosque.

The Hadaf is 4 m. to the N.W .

Theroad leads through a foresttrees

, with ruined buildings at intervals. At 11} m. it passes a solid brickbuilding on the righ t hand, called theTaksal

, or Mint , with wallsthick. The H adafruins are about 200

yds. ed”

the road to the left through a

thick low jungle. The entrance is bytheE. gateway, wh ich ismuch injured.

The traveller then finds himself in a

quadrangle. The mo ue proper has8 facade 200ft . long, wifhseven arch es,each 22 ft. h igh . In the centre of th e

Quadrangle is a reservoir, with stepsown to the water. The whole is nowmuch ruined and covered with junglThe distance from Rajmahal to

English Bazar, the headquarters oftheMaldah district , is 24 111. Th ere is

across the Ganges at

English Bazarzer inbah . ) issituated on the rt. bank of theMahananda about 4 m. below O ld Maldah ,

silk manufactures, and the French and

Dutch had factories at it. TheEn lish

factory, established in 1656, ow

ever, was always at English Bazar,lower down theMah ananda, and on

the opposite bank of the river. The

pop. is 4700. The GoldenMosque at

O ldMaldah is scarcely worth a visit.

The ruins ofGaurand Panduah , suc

cessive capitals ofBengal, are interest

ing only to the antiquarian. The sites

of these old cities are being ra idlyturnedunder theplough , and the ense

jungles wh ich 30 years ago sheltered

tigers and leopards no longer exist .

Gaur was themetropolis of Bengal

under its H indu kings. Its mostancient name was Lakhnauti, a cor

ruption of Lakshmanawati. But the

name of Gaur, also is of primeval antiquity, as is found in the Guare

'

ya

B rahmana . Its known historybegins

with its conquest in 1204 A . by theMohammedans, who made it the chiefcentre of their power in Bengal for

more than three centuries. W hen th eAfghan k ings of Bengal became inde

pendent, they made Panduah their

capital, and for building purposes theyrobbed Gaur of all the material thatcould be removed. Th is accounts for

the number ofsculptured H indu stones

amongst the ruins ofPanduah . W henPanduah was in its turn deserted, Gaur

again became the capital,andwas calledJannatabad,

“terrestrial paradise,

which name occurs in the{ find -A kbari.

Daud Khan was the last of the Afghan

k ings, and h is state was absorbed intofrom wh ich the district takes itsname. The place is not frequentedby travellers, and arrangements for theJourney should be made by writing to

Akbar’

s empire in 1573 A .D .

The dimensions of the city proper,within the great continuous embankment , are 75 m. from N. to S. , and 1

themagistrateatMaldah aweek before to 2m. broad. TheW . sidewas washedhand. The distance from English b the Ganges, wh ich flowedwhere theBazar to Gaur is about 8 m. as the c nnel of the Little Bhagirath i nowcrow flies, and to the AdinaMosque at is. The E. side was protected by thePanduah , 12m. Mah ananda and by swamps. On the

OldMaldah is at the confluence of S. theMahananda joined the Ganges,theKalindri with theMahananda. It and left little space for an enemy to18 011admirableposition forriver

-traffi c, encamp. On the N. a fortification 6and probably rose to prosperity

.

as the m. long extends in an irregular curve

Port Of th e M9 h 3mm°dan capital 9 f 1 B locbrnann save 1198 A .D . ;Mr. Th om”Panduah . During the last century it ( 1202 ;MajorRaverty, 1194,

268 ROUTE 19 .

from the old channel of the Bhagirath i

at Sonatala to near the Mahanandaand Bholahat . This ram art is 100

ft . wide at base. At the .E. rt of

the curve is a gate, protects by a

strong outwork in the form ofa quad

rant,through wh ich a h igh embanked

road passes N. and S. In th is outwork

is the tomb of aMohammedan saint .

Near theN.E. corner, at the confluence

of the Kalindri and theMahananda,are the ruins of a minar. N. of the

rampart are the remains ofthepalace ofBalal Sen, an early H indu king.

Beh ind the rampart lay the N.

suburb ofthe city, in wh ich is themostcelebrated piece of artifi cial water in

Bengal , the Banger Digi, 1600 yds .

long by 800 broad. It dates from 1126

A.D. Thewater is still ure and sweet .

On the bank is the tom ofMakhdumShaik Akh i Siraju -din and a smallmos ue. Both buildings are endowed

and ept in fair re air. W . of th is

suburb is a gha t cal ed S’

adu’llahpur

leading down to the sacred river ; and

S. ofit lie theruins ofthecity, defended

by a strong rampart and ditch . To

wards theMahananda the rampart isdouble, and in most arts there have

been two immenseditc es, and inplaces

three.

To the S. , on the Bha‘

rath i, was

the Citadel , 1 m. long rom N. to

S. , and from 600 to 800 yds . broad.

The brick wall h as been very strong,with many flanking angles, and round

bastions at the corners. Outside the

N. entrance have been several fine

gates or triumphal arches . In the

S.E. corner of the citadel was the

palace, surrounded by a brick wall

66 ft. high , and 8 ft. thick , with an

ornamented cornice,— hence called the“Boris Gaji

”wall. A little N. of

the palace are remains of the royal

tombs, where H usain Shah and other

kings were buried. In the citadel are

two mosques ; the smaller one, cal led

the Kadam Basa l, built by Husain

Shah , is kept in d repair by an

endowment . Mr. 0131188011 says ofitsstyle It is neither l ike that ofDelh inor that of Jaunpur, nor any otherstyle, but one purely local, and not

without considerable merit in itself ;

CALCU’I‘TA TO GAUR AND LUCKEESERAI India

its principal characteristic beingheavy, short pillars of stone su ortoingpointed arches, andvaults in

'

clr.

The solidity of the supports goesfarts

redeem the inherent weakness ofbrick

arch itecture. It also presents, though

in a very subdued form, the curved

linear form of the roof, which is so

characteristic of the style. The

Kadam Rasul was built by NuatShah , in 937 A . H .

= l 530 A.D.

”lust

outside the E. wall of the citadel isa

lofty brick tower, known as Pir'

Asa

Minar,wh ich had a chamberwithfair

windows at the top, to which wuss

was gained by a winding stair. Dr.

Hunter sa 8 : One of themost inte;eating of t e antiquities of theplaces

a minar. For two-th irds oftheheight

it is a pol gon of twelve sides ; above

that circu aruntil it attains theheight

of84 ft . The door is at somedistancefrom the present level of the ground:

and altogether it looks more like an

Irish round towerthanaminar.

" There

is orwas an inscription on thismonu

ment , wh ich ascribed its erection to

Feroz Shah .

The finest ruin in Gaur is that ofthe

Golden Mosque or B arab Darwazah

It is close to the N.E. corner ofthe

citadel. It measures 180 ft. fromN.

to S. , 60 ft . from E. to W . ,andi3 20

ft . h igh . The entrance is by anarched

gateway of stone 26 ft . in height

and 6 ft. in breadth . The mosque

in plan is oblong, and originallycon

sisted of four separate colonnades

arched and roofed over, and covered

by handsome domes,in all 44 ID

number. Six minarets or columns of

brown stone faced with black marble

adorn the building ; bands of blue

marble about 12 in. in breadth emhrsa

thecolumn from thebase to thecapital.

and are adorned with a profusiond

flower-work carved in marble. Th!

domes are built of brick . Thewhoh

appearance ofth is building is striking!grand, exh ibiting the taste andmumfi

cence oftheprincewho erectedit. Tl!corridor is so lar that one canrid!

th rough it on an e ephant, andsoout!

the Dakh il or Sa lami Gate,"the

.

N.

entrance to the fort . This beautlfi

gate is built of small red brickl , nl

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

270 RO UTE 20. CALC UTTA 'ro DARJ EELING India

262 m. Luekeeserai junc. sta. (see the North ern Bengal Railway comRte. mences it is metregauge.

At 24'

m. from Sara Ghat is Nat-toresta. D.B .

1

111 m. Parbatipur junc. sta.

whence the line towards Assamruns E. th rough Rungpore.

ROUTE 20 station ; ch iefplace

FROMCALCU '

I‘

TA BY EASTERN BENGALsame name'

RA ILW AY TO DARJ EELING [From Jalpaiguri Ghat a boat leaves

for Teesta Gha t thence a train runs

The traveller leaves Calcutta by the to Dam D im ]Sealdah station.

45 m. Ranaghat junc. sta. , D.E.

[Branch line E. for Bengong and

Khoolna. ]

103 m. Poradah a junc . sta. [Branchline E. forGoalundo Ghat (50 m. ) onthe Ganges, Rte.

120m. Damookdea sta . , on therigh t

bank of the Ganges. H ere a steamferry is in readiness to take assen ers

across the river to Sara G at . c

distance from the station to th e steamervaries from time to time, as all the

rivers in this part of India have a

tendency to chan their course. The

variations in th e d of th e Ganges at

various laces connected with th is

railway, y necessitating changes of

railway stations, and the removal of

lines of rail, have caused great embarrassment . SirW illiamH untersays :Fluvial changes on so great a scale

had been encountered at the river

crossing, where the Northern Bengal

Railway begins and the Eastern Bengal

Railway ends,that no costly or

permanent terminus has yet been

attempted.

The distance from the ri h t bank

sta. to Sara Ghat sta. , on the eft bank ,

is about 13 m. ofwh ich a considerabledistance is on temporary rails laid on

the sand in the dry season. Theactual crossing by ferry steamer occu

pies about twenty minutes. Meals areprocurable on board. At Sara Ghat

196m. Silliguri sta. D.B . The

N. terminus of th e Northern Bengal

Railway.

From th is place to Darjeeling the

journey is made by the H ima layan

Railway on a gau e of 2 ft . The

distance is 50m., an the time occupiedeigh t hours.

Th e line is constructed in themostsubstantial manner, with heavy steel

rails (40 lbs. to the yd. ) Th e loco

motives, specially designed byMShar and Stewart of Manchester,wei 10 tons. Thespeedofthe trains.bot up and down, is not allowed

to exceed 7 m. an h our, although on

special occasions 16 m. h as been easilyattained. By the present speed

travellers ascend over 1000 ft. an hour.

It is worthy of note that th is is the

fi rst work of the k ind for which the

capital required has been raised entirely

in India.

It is essential to make th is journeyby dayligh t . Travellers are strongly

advised to have extra warm clothingat

hand, also a warmwrapper for thefeet,as th e transition of temperature from

the plains to the mountains is very

great . They sh ouldprovide themselves

with veils, as the dust and blacks from

th e engine fly into their faces. Those

wh o sit on the front seats of theopen

carriages are especially inconvenienced.

1 A bell will be rung at Nattore to arouse

passengers by down mail to beminted to

aligh t and cross by ferry at Sara t.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

RO UTE 20A .

fin and muddy, while the Great

j it is dark green and very clear.

The Teesta is much the broader,deeper, and more rapid. Th is expedition wil l take two days.If time permits, it is well worth

following down the Teesta valley to

Silliguri (see above) instead of return

ing y train from Darjeeling.

Senehal , 8610 ft., is clearly seenfrom Jelapahar, and is about 6 m. off.

It used to be a dcp6t for European

troops . The water for Darjeeling istaken in ipes from theSenchal springs.

An expe itiou may bemade to it, starting early in the morning. It is com

paratively eas ofaccess, and from Jela

pahar th e pat along the rid e of themountains may be seen. h is pathabounds in rare and beautiful plants,and traverses m ifi cent forests of

oak, m olia, an rhododendron.

Oaks, aurels,maples, birch , chestnut,h drangea , a specres of fig, and three

Chinese and J apanese kinds, are the

principal trees ; the common bushes

being Aucuba, Skimmia, and the

curious H elwingia, with little clusters

of flowers on the centre of the leaf,like Butch er

’

s Broom. In spring immense broad-leaved arums springwith green or purple

-striped h s

that end in tail - like threads, 18 in.

long, which lie along the ground and

there are various k inds of Convallaria,Paris

,Begonia, and other beautiful

flowering herbs . Nearl th irty ferns

may be gathered on t is excursion,

including many of great beauty andrarity, but the tree

-fern does not ascendso high . Grasses are very rare inth ese woods, except the dwarf bamboo,now cultivated in the open air in

England.

CALCUTTA TO DIBRUGARH

ROUTE 20A

Tue Assam VALLEY AND BRABMAruraa — Camurra '

ro Dumnoann BY GAUB ATI (forSurnnone).

at The A ssam Va lley

A travel ler wish ing to visit the As

samvalley, ifunencumberedwith h eavyluggage and not averse to many changesof conveyance, will find th e mail routethemost expeditious. W hethercomingfrom Calcutta or Darjeeling, he leavesthe main line of the Eastern Bengal

Railway at Parbatipur junc . sta. (seeRte. 20) and proceeds along the branchline E. to

23 Il l . Rungpore sta. , D.E.

33 m. Kaunia sta D .B ., on the banks

of the Teesta river. H ere there is a

wide ferry to

Teesta, D.B . ,on the E. bank of the

river (a line branches N. toMagalh atin 2 hr.) The Eastern Bengal Rly.

(northern section) continues E. by tram

ways, with changes at river-crossings

according to th e season of the year, to

Kurigram,on the Dharla river

,and to

Jett apur, on the banks of the

Brahma utra river. H ere the River

Steam avigation Co .

’

s well-appointed

steamers 1 are in readiness to take pas

songers and mails on board. Th ese

steamers touch at th e civil station of

Dhubri, it: D.B . , on therigh t bank of

the Brahmaputra river, in lat . 26°

2’N. ,

and long. 90°

2’E. , at the point where

the great river leaves the Assam valle

and turns S. towards theBay ofBengaliThe steamer reach es Goa lpara about

1 Th ese steamers, or others in connection

with th em, start daily every morning fromth e terminus of the E. Bengal Rly . at Goa

lundo Ghat (see R te. 203 ) for Dlmbri, wh ereengers change on to the mail steamer.

h is rorrte into A ssam (th ough many h ourslonger) isg

rem d by some to th at via. Bungpore and unis , as it avoids the crossing of

the two great rivers, the Teesta and the

Dharla, and the consequent changing and re

changing from trains to ferry-boats .

T

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

ROUTE 203 .

what was theH ouseofZaminda r Wyse,an Englishman wh o acquired a largefortune, and possessed extraordinaryinfluence ; not far off is the Pa lace of

the Nawab, whose family is one of

themost distinguished in Bengal

, and

celebrated for their charitab e acts.

Beyond the palace is the MitfordH ita l , a fine building.

T e two principal streets of the citycross each other at ri h t angles. One

extends from the La Bagh palace tothe Dolai creek , and is over 2 m. long.

It runs parallel to the river, and has

branch streets leading to the landing

places. The other leads to the canton

ment N. of the town, and is 11 m.

long. At the junction of the streets is

a square, with a garden in the centre.

Th e Church is 100 yds. S. of the Commissioner

'

s h ouse.

A t 1,m. from the church is the well

kept Cemetery. It contains a smalltank , and some fine trees. In the centre

is a handsome stone gateway, wh ich

marks the limit of the old cemetery.

The older tombs are with in th is gate

way. Th ere is a finely sculptured

mausoleum here 40 ft. high , with

columns of a peculiar kind, probablythe tomb of some Mohammedan of

rank . In 1575 , when Akbar’s generals

reduced Bengal, Sunhargaon was th e

ch ief commercial city ; the EmperorJchangir made Dacca the residence of

th egovernor, and called the city Jehana r.

the riches and

celebrity of Daeca, th ere are few old

buildings ofany importance left. On

the S. bank ofthe river, near the centre

of the city, is the great Katra (builtin 1645 A . D. ,

accordin to Hunter),wh ich means “

arched nilding.

”

It

bears an inscription with thedate 1625 .

The small Katra was built by Amirn’

l

umra Shaistah Khan, in 1663. To the

E. of the town is the La l Bagh , begun

by Muhammad '

Azim, son of Shah

J eh an, in 1677 , and probably never

finished. The walls are of red brick ,and ver solid.

The ort was built by Ibrah imKh an,the fi fthMogul governor, in 1690. In1712 J

’afarKhan removed the court to

Murshedabad.

camera's 'ro DACCA AND v rrEr VALLEY India

A considerable quantity of gold and

silver plate of original design and

excellent workmansh ip is still made atDecca, ch iefly for export to Calcutta ;also gold and silver filigree work of

great excellence. The manufacture of

shell bracelets is a speciality.

Th e once celebrated Decca muslins— abrawan or

“running water,

”

befihowa, or woven air,

”srebha nam,

or

evening dew— are almost a th ingof

the ast ; and the demand in Europefor t 0 old cotton flowered and s rigged

mus lin has almost entirely fallhn oi.

But there is a brisk and increasingdemand fortussoreembroidered muslin

(hasidas) and other kinds of muslin,striped (dorias), checkered (shark

-anal

and figured (jamdani), are still madehere.

Themost pleasant drive at Dacce is

round the Race-course, about 1 m. W.

of the church . S. ofit is a fine countryvilla belonging to the Nawab.

Dacca is a good place for h ig-sticking

and Tiger-shooting. There are exten

sive ruins at Sunhargaon,but t hey can

be visited only on an ele hant .

Much of the country a ut Decca is

under water in the rainy season, from

J une to October.

The rly. from Dacca proceeds N. to

85 m.Mymensing sta.

There is a daily steamer fromNarainganj N.E. to Penchuganj in Sylhetistrict, the head of the navigation on

th e Kusiara river in dry weather. The

journey occupies 2 days. (Fenchuganjis in a direct line 14 m. S. of Sylbet. )In dry weather it is necessary to take

country boats from here to Cach ar

(Silchar).

once or twice a week , in one d

Cachar to Obstacle, D. B ., the

the dry weather navigation

Surma river.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

280 ncers 21.

flies, from the D.B . It stands uponrising round, wh ich is called Nil iri,or the lue H ill, and is surrounds bya 3 uses enclosing stone wall about 20ft . igh , with a ateway in the centre

of each side. Tghe E. gate is always

open. W ithin is a second enclosure

surrounded by a double wall having an

interval of11 ft. between thewalls, andwith in th is a

gain is the temple prOper.

Th e H a ll of Uflerings, or B ogMandir(D),

1 is said to have been built by theMarathas in the last century, at a cost

of 40 1akh s of rs. It was part of the

Black Pagoda of Konarak , and was

brough t thence by them. The Nath

Mandir (C ), or dancing- hall, also of

late date, is a square hall measuring69 ft . x 67 ft . inside. The walls are

plain, with only two figures ofdwarpals,called J aya and Vijaya, and a marblefigure ofGaruda, 2 ft. h igh .

The J agamoham (B), or H all of

Audience, where the pilgrims see theidols, is 80 ft . sq. and 120 ft. h igh .

The Baradewa l (A ), or Sanctuary,where the idols are, is also 80 ft. sq.

Th is part is surmounted by a loftyconical tower or vimanah .

The idols themselves, that is to

say, J a unath , with h is brotherBalabharfr; and h is sister Subhadra,are frigh tful logs, without h ands or

feet , coarsely carved into a wretch ed

likeness of the human bust. Thetower is 192 ft . hi h , black with time,and surmounted th e W heel andFlag ofVishnu. T e date of its erection is 1198, and it cost about half amillion sterling ; but it has since beenrepeatedly repaired, to th e ruin of thetem Is as a work ofart .T is only beautiful th ing to be

seen at Puri is an ex uisite Pillarbrough t from the B lac P oda at

Konarak . It stands outside t 0 Lionor E. gate ofJagannath

’

s tsm ls , on a

platform of rough stones, an reckon

ing to the top of the seated figure of

Aruna, or the Dawn, wh ich surmountsit, is 35 ft . h igh . The Lion Gate

,

on entering wh ich the pilgrims are

sligh tly struck with a wand b

yan

offi cial, has its name from two arge

1 These letters refer to correspondingletters on the plan.

CALC UTTA TO PURI AND CUTTACK India

lions of the conventional form,with

one paw raised, which stand one at

either side of the entrance. As the

door stands open, it is possible to see

t he bands of pil s within, but not

the temples, ofWm, besides theGreat

Pagoda, there are more than 100, 13

of them being sacred to Shiva. There

is also a temple to the Sun.

There is a street about 45 ft . broad

all round the temple enclosure. Tuming to the left, from the Lion Gate

alon th is road, the visitor comes to

the gate, where steps lead upto the

entrance. The entrance itself is 15 it

h igh ,wh ich is ornamented with mam

figures . Above are depicted

from the life ofKrishna. Thesupports

of themassive roofare ofiron.

It often happens that while the

visitor is viewin

gthe building,

a

couple of men wi l pass by, carryin

a bundle by a pole, wh ich is pas cal

through it the bundle being a corpse

rolled up in a cloth , and so carried to

be burned.

'1 m. S.W . , on the sea-shore near

theCircuit H ouse, is theSwargaDuma.

or“Door ofParadise

,

”where, whenall

the ceremonies are finished, the pil

grims bathe in the surf and wash awaytheir sins. There is a stump of a pillar

4 ft. h igh on the righ t hand, near a

small tem ls. On th is pillar offerings

are place wh ich are eaten by the

crews. On the left is wh at is called the

Lahore Math . W ith in th e enclosure

is a well, with excellent fresh water,wh ich seems wonderful , as th e sea is

not 100 yds. ofl'

. Opposite will he

seen hundreds of men and womenbath ing, the surfrollin over them inits fury . Afterwards t ey mak e littlelumps of sand, and stick lit tlepieces of

woe into them.

To the N.E. of the city, passingonthe left the Chandan Tank and Temple,to the W . of wh ich are theMitianiTank , and the Mark hand Tank andTemple, is a B ridge said to h ave beenmade by theMarathas, but probablyrepaired b

athem. It was built, ac.

cording to {endra LalMitra, 1038-50.

It is 278 ft . ong by 38 ft . broad, andhas 19 arches. Over th is the mainroad to Cuttack passes.

ROUTE 21 .

S.E. from th is is the Garden H ouse,

to which the Car of Jagannath isbrought at the Car Festival, in J uneorJ uly, when ilgrims come troopinginto l’uri by t onaanda a day. TheGardenHouse stands at the end of thebroad sandy avenue called the Baradaud, 1 m. from the Great Tcm le.

The house is a tem ls with in a gar en

enclosedwith a wa 15 ft. h igh . The

principal gateway faces the temple, andas apointed roof, adorned with con

ventional lions. The gates to thistemple are built upon the H indu archsystem, with a series of slabs supporting the roof, each a lit tle longer thanthe other, and rojecting beyond it .This is said to a very old temple,but it has not much pretension to

architectural beaut On thesideofthetemple there is a plain raised seat 4 ft .high and 19 ft. long, made ofch lorite,and this 18 called the Ratnavedi, thethrone on wh ich the images are placedwhenbrough t to the temple.

The great Car is 45 ft . h igh aid 35it. sq. , and is supported on 16 wheelsb f7ft. diameter. The brother and sisterofJ agannath have separate cars a fewft. smaller. The car is dragged by 4200

professionals, who come from theneighhoaring districts, and during thefestival live at Pnri gratis.

.

The legend is that Indradyumnapitched h is camp h ere when h e arrivedat Puri

, and set up an image of NarSlng. Here the Sacred Log from theWhite Island stranded

,and here the

Divine Carver made the images ofJagannath , etc., and here Indradyumnaperformed th e horse sacrifi ce a hundredtunes over. On the walls are somefine carvings of horsemen, etc. O uts1de, over the door, are iron figuresofwomen 2 ft . h igh , supporting theroof; also carvings of B rahma withfour heads, worsh ip ing Narayan ofkrishna playing to t e Gopis, etc.

The Buradand is more than 1 m.

long. It is 180 ft. broad in someplaces. According to Rajendra LalMitra, J agannath and some of h is

aliar ceremonial Observances are ofnddh ist origin, and the Car Festival

Hunks the anniversary of Buddha’

s

birthday. Besides the Car Festival

JAGANNATH

there are the following holy days : (1 )Ghornagi, warm clothin festival,when the images are dresse in shawls ;

(2) Abisheka, sacred as the anniversaryofJagannath

’

s coronation (3 )Makara,when the Sun enters the sign Capricorn.

This corresponds to the Stream of th e

Romans. (4) Dola Yatra, or H all , tocelebrate the return of aprip the

Carnival of India. It falls on t e full

moon of Phalguna : next to the Car

and Bath ing Festivals, th is is themostimportant at Puri. (5) Ramavavani,birthday of Rama, when Jagannath isdressed as Rama ; (6)Damana-bhanijkaYatra

,anniversary of the destruction

of a demon named Damanika ; (7Chandana Yatra, th e Florialia of the

Romans,and theMay-

pole of modernEurope, a feast offlowers (8)RukminiH arana, anniversary of Rukmini

'

s

elopement . She was the daugh ter of

Bhishm,King of Berar, and was be

trothed to Shishupal, but ran offwithKrishu. (9) Suana Yatra, or

“Bath ingFestival, when the images are brough tto theN.E. corner of the outer enclos

ure and bathed at noon, then dressedand decorated with a proboscis. After

this the images are removed to one of

the side rooms for a fortnigh t , and

their room is called Andur Ghar or“sick chamber,

”

and the divinities aresaid to be laid up with fever in couse

quenes of their unusual bath the real

object is to wash off the dust and soot

of the year, and to re paint the idols.

10 is the CarFestival 11, the Sayana

Ekadashi, on the 11th of the fi rst half

ofA shadh . This marks the day whenVishnu falls into h is four month s

’

slumber. Th e images are put to bed,and said to sleepfor fourmonths. (12)Jh ulana Yatra, on the 11th of the firsthalf of Shravana , Madanamohana

,

the proxy of J agannath , is every night

for fi ve ni h ts placed in a swing andentertainer with singing and dancing.

(13) J anam, birthday of Krishna,— a

priest acts the father, and a nautch girl

the moth er (14) ParshvaparivartanaEkadash i, 11th of the fi rst half of

Shravana, in honour of Vishnu whenesles turning on to his h t side ;(15)

'

aliya Damana, on the ay whenKrishna k illed the black serpent .

282 norm : 21 . on euru 'ro roar AND ourracx

Dr. Hunter supposes this to be the

anniversary of a victory over the

aboriginal Nagas, by theAryans. (16)Vamans -

°

anam,

anniversary of the

birth of t e fi fth incarnation ofVis

Jagannath is dressed like a dwarf, and

provided with an umbrella and an urn.

(17) Kuar Punai, at the full moon of

Ash vina, when the discus of Vishnu is

carried in procession, borrowed fromthe Buddhist rite of the procession of

theW heel of the Law (18) UtthapanaEkadashi, the 1 l th of Kartik , wh enVishnu wakes from h is four month s’

sleep.

[18 m. N.E. from Puri is Konarak ,

celebrated for its so called Black

Pagoda, than wh ich , with the single

exception of the temple of J agannath

described above, there is no temple inIndia better known or about wh ich

more has been written. Th e travellershould on no account omit to visit it

Thecost ofthe tripisabout as follows

Remarks.

rs as

No supplies can

be got at Kon1 2 arak except milk0 8 and per s egga.

8 6 Thetrave will

do wel l to e yeven drinkingwater with h im.

Total 15 8

Ifa pony can be procured, it will be

best to ride, but oth erwise the journeymay be made in a palki with eigh t

bearers, th reecoolies to carryprovisions,etc . , and two torch -bearers . The start

sh ould bemade at A .M. As Uriyas

do not understand H industani, muchless English , an interpreteris necessary.

The path at fi rst runs N. for about 2

m. ,and th en turns to the righ t and

goes direct E. The wh ole way lies

through a fine grassy plain, in wh ich

are innumerable herds of black buck,

which are so tame, that even th e noiseof th e hamma ls, who chant amonotonous son does not scare them away.

There 8 ould be a relay of bearersat 10m. fromPuri. The trees are fewand far between, and there is only one

India

but,wh ich isneartheriverKushbhsdm.

135m. from Puri. The river is about100 yds. broad 1n the rains, but m t he

cold season there are th ree streams,swift , but only 1 ft. deep. About 1m.

from the temple there are a fewof trees on the righ t , one th ick enough

to give shelter from the sun.

A t first sigh t the B lack Pagodais disa

gipopointing. It has on the N.

side a sap of ruins, 45 ft . h igh and

about 70ft . long, slo inmgdown at a steepangle. Th is was t e tower that en

tained the idol . In front of it is the

Jagamohan, orporch , now th e onlyputstanding, and much ruined internIt has a square base of 90 ft. , is hof red late te, and is cal led blast

on account f the deep shadow it

casts.

Th e whole roof is excessively beautiful, and vered with elaborate carv

ings, an r. Fergusson says of it thatth ere is no roof in India wh ere the

lay of light and shade is ob

tair‘ ipwith an equal amount of rich

mss and constructive propriety, ner

one that sits so gracefully on th e base

that sup orts it . The travel ler who

has seen t s H indutemples ofNorthern

and W estern India will not beto find iron employed in 8110nstruc

tures. In Orissa, however, this hasbeen the case. Fergusson says of thisbuilding Internally th e

ychamber

is singularly plain, but presents some

constructive peculiarities worthy of

attention. On the floor it 18 about 40ft . sq. and thewalls riseplain t o about

the same heigh t . H ere it begins tobracket inwards, till it contracts t o

about 20 ft. , where it was ceiled with

a flat stone roof, su ported b wrough t

iron beams s owing a knowledgeof the ropsrties and strength of th ematerial that is remarkablem a plewho are now so utterly incapahlgofforging such masses. . Th s employ?ment of these beams hers is a mystery.

They were not.

wanted for strength , asthe

ybuilding is still firm after they

have fallen, and so expensive a falseceiling was not wanted architecturallyto

’

roof so plain a chamber. It seemsto be only another instance of that

profusion of labourwh ich th e H indus

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

286 ROUTE 21 . CALCUT'I‘A 'ro PURI AND cn'ru cx

Parashurameshvm ,200yds. to the

W . of the Gauri tank , Fergusson con

siders the oldest temple at Bhavan

eshwar. The sculptures are cut with

a delicacy seldom surpassed.

”

The

ground-

plan is a square, the porch is

oblong and covered with baa-reliefs

representing processions of hors es and

ele hants in the upper linear bands

un er the cornice, and scenes from the

life of Rama in the lower. The roof is

a sloping terrace, in the middle of

wh ich is a clear stor with a slopingroof

;flat in the middl

ve. A s th e roof

stones project beyond th e Openings ,neither direct rays of sun nor rain can

penetrate. This occurs nowh ere else

except in the Moh an of the Vaital

Temple.

A labukeshvam is of red sandstone,

and stands to the N.E. of the last .

Vaita l Dewal stands on th e roadside

to th eW . oftheVindusaugar tank . Its

spire is four-sided, and ends in a long

ridge rofusely carved and probably of

the Qt century.

Someshvara stands to the S. of the

last named. It is 38 ft . h igh and 27

ft . square, and rich ly carved all

over.

A list of 81 oth er temples will befound in the A ntiq uities of Orissa ,

vol .

ii. pp. 97 ,

[The Caves ofUdayagiri andKhandagiri lie about 4 m. to the N.W .

through low jungle, wh ich graduallyincreases till the h ills are reached.

Udayagiri is 110 ft . h igh , and th e

caves exist in eigh t stages. The lowest

being theRaniNaur, orQueen’

s Palace,called by Fer sson theRaj Rani Cave,near the gui a

’

s but “It consists oftwo rows of cells, one above th e other,sh aded by pillared verandah s, with a

courtyard 49 x 43 ft . cut out of th e

h illside.

”Th e upper story, wh ich

faces E. , has eigh t entrances. There

are two dwarpals, representing men inwhat appears to be Grecian armour,with buskins and greaves, cut out of

the solid rock in alto-relieve. Th everandah gives access to four smallcells, and a t either end is a rock lion,

executed with some spirit . The backwall of th e verandah is an extensive

series of tableaux, diffi cul t to make ou t.First on the left aremen carrying fruit,3 group ofeleph ants, and soldiers arm

ed

with swords.

The lower story also has eigh t en

trances. The ground-floor front was

formed ofa colonnaded verandah 44 ft .

long, having a raised seat or bermealong its wh ole inner line. It was

formerly supported by a row of eigh t

square pillars, of wh ich only t h e two

end ones -remain, and opened E. into

an oblong chamber, and N. in to three

rooms. H ere there is an extensive

frieze,much dilapidated, so t h at only

four fragments admit of des cription.

Thefi rst represents a h ouse,and a femalefigure look s out of each of th e 3 doors

and one from the balcony, wh ich is

protected by a Buddh ist rail . A

similar rail runs in front of th e lower

story, with a large tree by its s ide. In

the second fragment a saint or priest

h olds a piece of cloth in h is left h and

and extends the righ t as in th e act of

blessing ; one servant h olds an umbrella

,and another carries a sword.

Lt . is a devotee on h is knees, and be

yond two kneeling women bring offer

ings, one dusting the feet ofa boy, who

h as one hand on her h ead. In the

th ird fragment is a saddle-horse with

th ree attendants, and th e holy manwith an umbrella held over h im, and

two at tendants with swords. In the

fourth fragment there is a group of

six women, three carrying pitchers

on th eir h eads, one kneeling and

offering h er pitch er to a figure, which

is lost .

Ganesh Gumpha (or more correctlyGupha) is almost due N. of the Rani

Naur Cave, and much h igher in the

h ill . It has only one story, but two

compartments, with a verandah in

front . There are three pillars in the

front of the verandah , square and

massive, but two others h ave fallen.

The pillars have brackets, with femalefigures carved on them. The fligh t of

steps leading to the verandah has a

crouch ing elephant on either side, each

h olding a‘

lotus in h is trunk . The

verandah is 5 ft . 4 in. h igh , and its

wall is ornamented with a series of 8

tableaux in alto-relievo. Th is frieze

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

ncers 21 .

Th e D.E. is in the middle of theCantonments, on the righ t of the road

gping down to the fort . About one

th of a mile beyond it is the Parade.

mad , with the English Church , N.

or. Catholic Chapel and Orphanage,W . and BaptistMission, 8.

Cutt ack is the capital ofOrissa. Itwas founded in the tenth century A .D.

by one ofthe kings of the long-haired,

or lion,dynasty. Its position as the

key of the Orissa h il l territory, andthe centre ofthe network of the Orissacanals, gives it both military andcommercial importance.

I t is famed for its fi ligree work in

gold, and silver.The Port is called Fort Barahati,

and is in ruins. It may have beenbuilt in the 14th century. Stirlingsays The square sloping bastionsand general style bespeak a H indu

origin.

” M. InMotto, who travelledin 17 67 A .D. , though t the Fort likethe W . side of W indsor Castle. Itwas tak en by storm by the British

in 1803 . It has now been convertedinto an unsigh tly series of earthen

mounds ; the stones of the moat having been taken in 1873 to build an

hospital , and those of the Fort to con

struc t the ligh thouse at False Point.The only objects of interest which

remain are thegrand arched Gateway,

flank ed by two ofty square towers, in

th eE. face, added by theMohammedanor th eMaratha governors of Orissa in1 7 50 A .D . , as mentioned in Persian inscriptions, andtheMosqueofBathKhan.

In th e A in-i-A kbari it is said that

th ere was , within the Fort, the famous

palace of Ra'

s Mukund Deo, nine

st ories h igh . his has utterly perished,but from the ruins have been dug upfragments of cornices, and a massivecandelabrum of fine indurated chlorite.

Th e top of the ruined citadel is 100 ft .

ibove t he level of the river.

O n th e way to the Fort , before

uterin t he Cantonments, close to thebank 0 th eTaldanda Canal, is a rden

named afterMr. J . Beames,a ormer

o llector. At the W . extremi is a

)eaut ifully carved arch 9 ft. big and

ieveral carved stones, all ofwh ich were

) rough t fromAlti byMr. Beames. On

[India]

curracx 289

the side pilasters are five rows oforna

ments deserving attention.

After crossing the brid over the

canal , theCommissioner’

s utcherry, a

lar’gle

I

buildin is passed on the righ t.e stone sciug of the Katiari river

was made by theMarathas. The bankis inplaces 25 ft. high , and is facedwith

fine blocks of laterite and sandstone.

Wain — Near Cuttack are important weirs for re lating the flow of the

rivers. Two 0 these, the Birupa and

Mahanadi, may be seen in quitting theplace. The traveller can drive alonga road a little to theN. of theTaldandaCanal to the Jobra Ghat, where are

theGreat D.P.W . workshops, theMahanadi Weir, and the lace of startingof the launches for handbali, FalsePoint, and Bhadrak . The Biropa riverleaves theMahanadi on its righ t bank ,and the weir there is 1980 ft . long and

9 ft. high . Of the four canals whichform the Orissa Irri ation S stem, two

take off from the irupa eir, and

onewith its branch from theMahanadiW eir. Th e two former are the H i hLevel Canal and the Kendrapara, t e

latter is the Taldanda. TheMahanadiW eir is 6400 ft. long and 12

4} ft . h igh ,and cost in round numbers 13 lakh s ofrs. It was begun in 1863 and completedin 1869-70.

Steamers, etc.

The launches of three companiesleave Cuttack every W ed. conveying

passengers to Chandbali, where they are

transferred to sea-gaing steamers forCalcutta ; every Set. a launch leaves

to meet a sea-going steamer at Awa.

which starts forCalcutta onMon. and

twice weekly a Govt . launch leaves for

Bhadrak , travelling by the H igh Level

Canal,— a pictures no journey.

The steamers o th e Co.

call regularly at False Point on their

downward journey for Madras and

coast ports, but not on their return

journey to Calcutta. )

[Cuttack taFalsePoint.

A steam launch runs between Cuttack and False Point in connection

0

some: 21. cancer-TA 'ro roar AND cumacx

with the steamers from Calcutta and

Bombay and coast ports . Thedistance

between Cuttack and False Point is

64§ m. ; of this 54 m. is by canal.

The journey is general ly performed in24 hours. Half an hourafter leavingCuttack the boat will the first

look , and enter the Ken rapara Canal,wh ich is here about 80 feet broad. It

takes about 6 hours to reach the place

where the canal bifurcates, and fi ve

locks are passed, each causing a delayof 7 to 10 minutes. W here the canal

branches into two, the righ t branch

leads to Maren hat, and the left to

Awa for Chand li. There are th ree

more locks before reach ing the J ambulock, where tidal waters are reached

about 6 m. from H ookeytollah , the

station for False Point harbour.

the calamitous c clone of 1885,a substantial Refuge ouse has beenerected at H ookeytollah . ]

The stages are as follows

Names ofStations. Miles.Cuttack to Tangh iTangh i to BarchansBarchans to DharamsalaDhammsala to Jajpur

The distance, as the crow flies, is

about 35 m. Leaving Cuttack at about

5 n u . , on will be able to cross the

Mohan iduring dayligh t,and proceed

during the nigh t 34 m. up the GrandTrunk Road, assing three InspectionorDak Bun ows, at Tanghi, Barchans ,and Dharamsala, where the palki willcross the river Brahmani in a ferryboat . 3m. fartheryou leave theTrunk

Road at Kuakhia, turning rt. There

is a short out after crossing the river,

but it is not advisable to take it . T he

road then proceeds 10 m. to the E. ,

crossing onroute threerivers unbridged,but fordablein the coldweather ; and atsunrise you reach

J ajpur. Yayati Kesari, comingfrom Behar

, found J ajpur a place ofimportance, and made it his capital for

1 They were brou ht from the Cenotaph ofSaiyad

'

A li Bukha a Pathan saint, wh o so

companied Kalapahar and when his head

cut off, at the siege ofBambs ti, rodewith outa time. It was close to Dantapura, it to J aipur, and was buried there.

where the sacred tooth ofBuddha was

kept, and in the 4th and 5th centu

A . D. it was called the navel of Bu

dh isrn. Yayati subdued it , and con

verted the sanctuaries into Hindu

laces ofworsh ip, but in 1558 Kalapa

ar, a famous champion of Islam,de

feated the H indus in a great battle at

Gahvara Tekri, 4 m. to th e N.E. of

Jajpur. It is believed th at whole

armies are buried here~ Kalapshar

demolished all the H indu temples mdtheaccumulated treasures ofart of1000

years were lost for ever.

Jajpur (pop. is situated on

the 8. bank of the Baitarani river. lt

was the capital ofOrissa until the 11h

century, when it was superseded byCuttack . W ith the aid of a lki, a

a pony, the visitor can seeall tKZt is abe seen at Jajpur in one day. Close

to the D.B . is a noblemosque, built byNawab A bu Nasir in 1681 A .D. out of

t he stones ofH indupalacesand templesAdjoining the mosque is the residenceof theMagistrate, in whose compoundare to be seen threemorwlithic statues ofblue ch lorite.‘ One is Indrani

,wifeof

Indra, theair-god, a four-armed goddesswith an admirably-cut eleph ant as her

footstool. Theearth goddess, Varahini,the wife ofVishnu in h is boar incarna

tion, sits with h er infant on h er knee.

Themost strikin of the three monoliths re resents Cinamunda

,the wife of

the A l -Destroyer, a colossal naked

skeleton, with the sk in hanging to the

bones , and th e veins and musclesstanding out in ghast ly fidelit Thea

fi es are finely carved, and thedetail!0 the ornaments are worth observa~

t ion. A temple to Vishnu, in his boarincarnation, crowns a flight of stain

leading up from the river.

In a gallery overlooking the dried-qbed of the river are seven idols, elabor

ately carved, and each made ofa blockof ch lorite 6 ft. h igh . Mr. Jsmath inks they have been collected fromvarious desecrated shrines, and that

some pious H indu, seeing themplaced

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

292 ROUTE 22.

Between the Temple of Trilochanand theroad, in an underground chambar, is a very holy and frigh tful ima e

ofKaliwith eigh teenarms. Ina temp c

on the other side of the road are somefine sculptures. A pipul tree growingon the top of the s ire of th is templehas gradually force its roots to thevery bottom, and is slowly rending itasunder.

Jajpur formerl}v stood on the main

road to Puri, an the pilgrims to J a

gannath used regularly to resort to it ,but the sanctity of the place has muchdiminished. It is, however, worthy of Wathar iiy givin notice to the and

ms tion by all who take an interestin indu antiquities Manv fragmentsofhalls and temples, all buil t of e cut

stone, are to be found in the town. A

nautch at this place is very differentfrom the dull , stupid ceremony which

passes under that name at Calcuttaand in the rest of India. The ancient

palace at Jajpurwas destroyed b theoffi cers of the English Public orksDepartmm t , wh o built bridges alongthe Trunk Road with the stones. A t

15 m. to the E. of J ajpur a colossalfigure of Padmapani was dugup the

feet are lost, but the total heigh t musthavebeen about 17 ft. 6 in. This figureis now called ShantaMadhava : it hasbeen removed to theMagistrate’

s com

pound.

Should the traveller prefer it, he

POONA TO GO A India

ROUTE 22

Poona '

roMm eannsnwaa,Komarua, Barnu m, am) Goa

Poona (see p. the SouthernMaratha Railway branches S. from theG. I.P. 2m. E. of the station. Passingthrough three hill ranges, reach es68 m. W athar sta. :t: (R. )[Passengers leave the train here forMahabaleshwar, the principal hill

station of the Bombay Presideabout 40m. distant by road to th e

and tongas can be hadst

contractor atMa baleshwar. It is tcharming drive of about 5 hrs. ; tho

first part through rolling country to18 m. Wai, D.E. p.

one of themost beauti rustic towns

in the Deccan. It is situated on the

left bank of the Krishna, which is

lined with beautiful pipul and mangotrees. and with handsome fligh ts ofstone steps. Behind the city rise hillsof all the shapes which arepeculiar to

the mountains in the Deccan. There

are round, ed, flat-topped h ills ;some cove with rocks looking at a

distance, like forts and cast les. One

hill near the city rises very abru y,and has a hill-fort on the top. t is

called Pandugarh . The nearest templeto theD. B.

— and theriveris lined wi thbeautiful temples— is dedicated to Gan

may return to Calcut ta via Balasore ; pati ; the next toMahadeo ; and one,

wh ich is only 65 m. in a direct line at some distance,to Lakshmi. They

from J ajpurto Chandbali (45 from form the great beauty of th is most

which steamers run every week ]

Balasore, D. B . Th is placewas onceofgreat commercial immrtance, and theDutch , and theDanes also,had a factoryh ere. The French still possess a smallterritory ofsome 100 acres at Balasorewhere the (swinging) Churruck Puja,long sto d through out British India,is annua y celebrated.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

nov'rn 22.

A .H . There is also a Persian sword

given bySir J ohnMalcolm to the Rajaof I is time.

In the S. face of the square is the

Treasury. In 1857 it was the scene

of a remarkably heroic defence byKaska Ubari, a native offi cer, in the

face ofan overwhelming force ofrebels.

Adjoining the Treasury, in the S.

face of the square, are other Government Offices, andbehind them the shrineof Amba B ai, the tutelary deity of

Kolhapur. The main port ion of thebuilding is built of black stone fromloca l quarries. The carved stonework

below the dome resembles the style of

J ain temples of the 12th century inKanara. The Jsins claim th is temple,and say it was dedicated to Padmavati.In the centre of the E. side of the

court is the ady tum, where is the

image of Amba Bai. A brazen imageof the goddess is carried round the

town in a triumphal car on the 15th of

April. The great bell of the temple isinscribed,

“AveMaria Gratim Plena

Dominus Tecum, andmust h ave beenobtained from the Portuguese about

the year 1739 .

From the palace the streets divergeas radii and join concentric lanes run

ning arallel to th e roads which occupy

the p ace of the old walls pulled downin 1881. Some interesting Buddh ist

remains have been discovered near

Kolhapur, wh ich test ify to th e nu

tiquity of the place, including a crystalcasket of the 3d century, found in a

tope in the neighbourhood.

N. of the t own is a sacred spot , th e

B rahmapuri H ill, where the Brahmansundergo cremation. About 100 yds. N.

of th is,close to the Panchganga river,

is what is called the Rani’

s Garden,

where the bodies of the ruling familyare burned.

From this spot is seen a bridge over

the river, with fi ve arches, finished in

1878 at a cost of Beyond

Rani’

s Garden is a massive stone gateway, 20 ft. high , which leads to theCenotaphs of Raja Sambhaji, just opposito the door to that of Shivaj i, andmore to the left, those ofTara-Bai and’

A i Bai.The Kolhapur Ligh t Infantry lines

POONA TO GOA

are at Bawra , a village 3 m. from thetown. They areexceptionallywell kept.

It appears that in ancient timesKolhapur was subject to earthquakes ;and in making extensive excavations

many temples and other buildings

were discovered wh ich had been over

whelmed with earth .

Rode-cut Caves are found in various

places, one in the Panhala Fort, and

another at the Panda Darah . 6 m. W.

of Panhala, wh ich is at the h ead ofa

wooded c hasm on a h ill 1000 ft . above

the plain, but none of these placcsmto be compared with others that have

been fully described.

The conduct of the Kolhapur troops,led by turbulent persons, has on several

occasions been the cause of very serious

troubles, wh ich in 1843 culminated inarebellion, and was not supprem dwith

out serious fighting.

In J anuar 1845 a British offi cer

was appointe Political Superintendent

of the Kolhapur state, a brigade was

stationed in the vicinity of the town,

and various measures of reform were

intro duced into the government withthe happiest results . Kolhapur, h ow

ever, was one of the few places in the

Bombay Presidency wh ich took part in

the disastrous rebellion of 1857. The

mutineers broke open th e store-guard,

stolearms,andcarried of?public treasureto the amount of rs.

[H ill-forts of Panhala and Pam

gadh .— Before leaving Kolha ur, the

traveller sh ould pay a visit to anhala,wh ich lies 12 m. to the N.W . of the

capital. There is an excellent road all

the way right into the Fort. A t 7 m.

from Kolhapur tonga ponies sh ould be

changed. The last 5 m. is a steepascent . Jotiba

’

s H ill, close by the

road, is covered by a labyrinth of

sacred temples and gateways. None

ofthe present temples are ofgreat age.

The three principal ones are dedicated

to Sh iva, and built of fine blue basalt.

In the same hill are some old rock -cut

cells. Pawala Caves, near J otiba'

s Hill.

consist ofone large ball 34 it . sq. with

fourteen pillars. The innerwalls have

been cut into cells. Outside to the left

is a very irregular Chaitya cave, 31 ft

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

acorn 22.

and th ough not remarkable for heigh t,covers a larger surface of cund.

Kadaroli, anciently ed Kadaravslli, a village on the riverMalparba,is 3 m. from Mugut Khan H uLli,wh ich is the second stage on theDhar

war road from Bel urn, and about 18

in. as the crow ies from Belgaum.

It possesses a ruined Templeto ShankarDeva, ofblack stone, in the bed of theriver, and inaccessible during floods.The central shrine is 8 ft . 34 in. uare,

and each of the two side ones git . 64}in. The pillars of themandapam and

portico to the central temple remainbut th e roofs and the capitals of all

the columns have been carried off bythe river. This temple is interestingfrom its anti uity and its singular

position in the ed of the river.At Sampgacn, 74 m. N. by E.

from Kadaroli, is a well-proportionedmos que. O ver theMihrab is a handsome Tughra inscription, containingparts of the 6th , 12th, and fi l st Surah sof the Koran. About 7 m. E. of

Sampgaon is the villageofBail H angal,wh ere is a temple wh ich dates fromabout 1200 A .D . Th is tem Is is about54 ft . long, and 33 ft . bro

Saundati, about 18 m. to the E. of

Bail-H angal, and 40m. E. of Belgaum,

has a temple to Bhavani. It is m theFort , and was buil t by the Desai of

Nargund.

About 1 m. due 8. of Saundati isthe celebrated temple of Yellama , at

Parasgad. It is built in the bed oftheSarasvati, a small streamwhich runsE. from the hills aboveSaundati. The

temple is said to be 2000 years old,but was rebuilt in thebeginning of the13th century, and again, except perhapsthe shrine, at the end of the 17th

century . It stands in themiddle ofacourt, surrounded by arcades with

pointed arches. In the W . to are

some pil lars like those of t e J ain

temples at Belgaum, and on the baseof one is an inscription covered with

wh itewash.

Hall , a village 9 m. to the N.E. of

SAMPGAON, SAUNDATI, H ULI

of the hill to th e N. of the villa

ge is

a grzppof ruined tern les ; one uilt

of h compact bluis stone has a

mandapam 43 ft. from N. to S. Thefour central pillars are similar to thoseat Belgaum,

only the snake is wantingon the bracket . The short pillars on

the screen are very varied, h exagonal,octagonal, and circular. The door

way of the shrine is ofporrihyry, rich ly

carved, and on the lmts is Shri or

Lakshmi, with elephants pourin water

over her. At 6 m. to the N. fromHuli is the village ofManauli, whereare eigh t temples to Panchalirrga Deva,of coarse-

grained stone, no way re

markable forcarving. The snake headon the bracket and their general stylewould lead us to assign these templesto the same age as those at Belgaum,

that is, to the end of the 12th century.

From Manauli to Badami is two

marches. Badami is described in Rte.

277 m. Londa junc. sta. (R. ) (LinesE. to Bezwada at thedelta oftheKistna

river. 8 .E. to Bangalore andMadras. )292 m. Castle Rock sta. (R. ) H ere,

at the frontier of thePortuguese terri

tory of Goa, the S. Maratha line isjoined by theW . of India Portuguese

Rly. , wh ich in 51 m. reaches the coast

at Marmagoa, the seaport of Goa .

In th e course of the first 10 m. fromthe frontier the line passes through a

dozen tunnels, ranging from 150 to 838ft. in length , wh ich had to be out

almost entirely out of the solid rock .

Apart from its commercial importance,the line possesses much interest for

lovers of the

tpicturesque, as it runs

th rough magni cent scenery.

8h m. from Castle Rock is Dudh

Saugar sta. , or the“sea of milk

,

”

where there is a very fine waterfall.

51 m. The terminus of the rly. is on

the uay at the Port ofMarmagoa,wh io as well as the line, is the pro

rty of the West of India Portuguese

Be

ailway Company ; and arrangementshave been made so that the trade is as

Saundati, has a temple ofPamhalinga free there as in British India.

Deva ,built by the Jains about 1100. The British India SteamNavigation

On two pillars of the outermandapam Company run vessels to and from Bomare Kanarese inscriptions. A t the foot bay in 26 hours.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

3 10 ROUTE 23 .

and 4 small minarets, and themasonryand workmansh i are finer than thatofany other buil in Bija ur.

Khawas Khan’

s d ad is 00 ft. N.

ofthe J ummaMus]id. Yalmt Dahali’

s

TombandMosqueareN.E.ofthecitadel.The tomb is square with stone latticework screens. It was Yakut Dabuliwho decorated themihrab oftheJummaMuajid. NawabMustafaKhan’

sl l osqiw,

500 da. E. of the citadel, is a loftybuil ing with a facade of3 arch es anda central dome supported on pendentives. Beh ind the mosque W . are theruins of the Khan

’

s Palace. MustafaKhan Ardistani was a distinguishednobleman at the court of

’

Ah

Shah I. , andwasmurdered in 1581 A .D.

by Kishwar Khan, who usurpedbrahim

Outside theW . wall of the city isThe Ibrah im Roza renounced

rauza ) a group ofbuil gs wh ichincludes the tombs of Ibrah im (IL )’

Adil Shah , h is QueenTaj Sultana, and4 other members of h is family. Dr.

Bird says truly,“this tomb is de

cidedly the most chaste in design andclassical in execution of all the workswhich the Bijapur sovere

'

have leftbeh ind them.

”

The Ibra im Roza is400 yds. W . of theMakka Gate. Thismagnificent buildin is said to havebeen erected by a ersian arch itect.It is enclosed by a strong wall with a

lofty gateway. The courtyard with inwas once a garden in the centre of itis raised an oblongplatformu nwh ichstands the tomb, and to the ofit amosque, with a fountain and reservoirbetween them. The 5 arches wh ichform the E. facade of theMas

ses are

very graceful above them,un er the

rich cornice, hang hea chains cut outofstone. On each of t 0 four sides ofthe Tomb is a colonnade of 7 arches

,

forming a verandah 15 ft. broad roundthewholeedifice. The vement ofthiscolonnade is slightly e ovated, and itsceiling is exquisitely carvedwith versesoftheKoran, enclosed in compartmentsandinterspersedwithwreaths offlowers.The letters were originally

'

lt, and the

ground is still a most b isnt azure,

H OTGI TO DHARWAR

Thework of beauti 3 th isMausolecompleted by his k Sandal.z

1 From Fergusson'

s H ist. of Indian Amt.Theauthor also says

“that Ibrahim, warnedby the fate of h is predecessor

’

s tomb, commenced h is own on so smal l 1 Ian, 116 itsq . , that it m only b ornament hat heeouidrender it worthy of imes li. ” Refer to Fergussonalso forfurtherinformationconcerningth is exquisite building.

3 The tomb of th is personage is at Tiko1m.W. of theMakka Gate. ta,

In some places the gilding also stfllremains. The border of every oom

partment is different from that of theone adjoining. Theformed of lattice-work of Arabic sen

tences, cut out ofstonebetween each letterligh t. This work is soouted, that Colonel Sykis noth ing to surpass it in IndiaAbove the double arcade outside thebuilding is a magnificent cornice with

a minaret four stories h igh at eachcorner and eigh t smaller ones betweenthem. From an inner cornice, withfour minarets on each side, rises thedome. The plan of the building re

sembles that ofthe tombs at Golk onds.The principal apartment in the tombis 40 it . sq. , with a stone-slab roofperfectly fiat m the centre, and an portedonly ha

s cove projecting 10 fromthewe onevery side. H ow theroofis su

pgorted is a m stery which can

only understood those who are

familiarwith the use t e Indians makeofmasses ofconcrete, which , with goodmortar, seems capable of infinite applications unknown inEurope. Aboveth is apartment is another in the domeas ornamental as the one below it,tho h its only object is to obtain ex

tern y the heigh t required for architectural effect, and access to its interiorcan only be obtained by a dark , narrowstaircase in the thickness of thewall.

" 1

Over the N. door is an inscription inPersian, extolling the building in veryexaggerated terms. The last line is achronogram, which gives the date1036 A .H . 1626 A .D. Overthe 8 . dooris another inscri

ption in praise of the

monarch , with t e date 1683. Overthe same door is inscribed

h ours 23 .

Tai-i-B ultan issued orders for theconstructionof th is Roza,Atth e beauty ofwhich Paradisestood amazed.

E expended over it 1} lakhs ofhuns,And 900more.

The h un being 3§ rs. the total expensewas about W hen Aurangzibbesieged Bija ur in 1686 he took u h is

quarters in t e Ibrah im Roza, w'

ch

mceived somedamage from the Bija ar

guns. These'

urica were partia yrepaired by the

mhajah of Satara, but

th e restoration was completed by the

Guns and Bastiona— The Burj-iSherza, or

“Lion Bastion”

so

called from being ornamented by twolions

’

h eads in stone, is 500 yds. S. of

the Sh ahpur Gate. On the r’

h t -handside on ascending the steps 0 th e has

tion is an inscription stating that it

was built in five months, and givingthe date 1671. On the to of th is

bastion is a huge called t eMaliki-Maidan, Lo of the Plain. On

eith er side of themuzzle the representation of the mouth of a monsterswallowing an eleph ant is wrough t in

relief. It was cast at Ahmednagar ina blue metal which takes a very h igh

lish . It is 14 ft . long, the circumerence is about 13 ft . 6 in. ,

and thediameter of the bore is 2 ft . 4 in. J ust

above the touch -h ole is the following

Th e work ofMuhammad B in Husain Rumi.At themuzzle is the followingThe servant of the family of the Prophet of

Abu’

l Ghazi Nizam Shah , 966 a .n. =

1 1 a m.

At themuzzle is alsoIn th e 30th year of the exalted reign,1097 an .

,Shah

’

Alamgir, conqueror of infldels , Km Defender oftheFaith ,

Conquered iiapur, and for the date of h istrium

fip,H e ful ed what justice required, and an

nexed the territory of the Shaha,Success showed itself, and he took th eMalik

About 150yds . E. of theSherza Burj

is a stran e nilding, called the OpriBurj, or pper Bastion, also called theRa ider B after a general of'Ali I. and brah im II. It is61 ft. high , oval in plan, with an out

tide staircase. On theway upwill be

B IJ APUR 3 1 1

noticed a Persian inscription recordingth e building of the tower in 1583.

On the to are two guns made of

longitudinal are held together with

iron bands. The lar er, called the

Lamcharri,“far flier,

’

is 80 ft. 8 in.

lon and has a diameter of 2 ft . 5 in.

at t emuzzle, and 3 ft. at the breechthe hers is 12 in. in diameter. The

other gun is 19 ft. 10 in. long, with 1

ft. diameter at the muzzle, and 1 ft . 6in. diameter at breech . In addition to

th ese there are several other large guns

lying about Bijspur.

There are several Tank s in B ijapur.

The princi l one is th e Taj Baoli, or“Crown ell”

It is 100 yds .

E. of theMakka Gate. The E. wingof the f e of the tank is partlyruined an partly used as a Kanarese

school. The W . wing is occupied bythe munici oflices. Two fligh ts of

steps lead own to thewater beneath

an arch of 34 it . s and about the

sameheigh t, flank by 2 tall octagonal

towers. The tank at the water’

s edge

is 231 ft . sq. The water comes part yfrom sprin and partl from drainage,and is 30 deep in t e dry weather.

There are many fish in it. Colonel

Sykes states that it was built byMalikSandal in SultanMuhammad’

s reign

but aceordin to Dr. Bird it was the

work of the azir of SultanMuhammad. In the arcade to the

the well remark th e curious

rafters ofwhich are ofstone.

W aterWork s.— B iJa urwas supplied

with abundant water y underground

ducts. One source of suppl was a

spring beyond the suburb ofKorwah ,5 m. W . of the citadel ; another wasthe Be Tank , 3 m. to the S.

Along t e line of the an ply water

occur towers supposed to be or thepur

pose of relieving the ressure in the

pipes. The people evi ently ap reci

ated the advantage of having p entyof cool water about them, and traces ofinnumerable baths and cisterns are

found in every direction. The waterfrom thereservoirs, for instance, in theruined palaceofMustafaKhan, ran into

a tank, from which it brimmed over

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

ROUTE 24. Poona

Major Ford’s regiment under greattemptation. In it were upwards of 70Marathas, yet not a man deserted on

the day of battle, though promised

vast same to join their countrymen.

After the action, the Marathas, butonly theMarathas, joined the enemandmany of them being subse uent ycaptured, their culpability, an as itwas, was very properly ignored, andtheywere set free.

Kirkee is the headquarters of theBombay Art illery. i m. N.E. of th ebarracks is the Small Arms Ammanition Factory, and to the N. are thePowder Works (permission to enter

both must be obtained from the Commandant of th e Artillery)Chri st Church , Kirkee, 111 the Artillery Lines, was consecrated in 1841.

Thereare two Colours of the 23d Regt .Bombay N. I. inside the W . door.

Amongst thememorial tablets is one to30 officers of the 14th King

’

s Li h tDragoons, who died or were kil edbetween 1841 and 1859 ; and anotherto 90non-commissioned offi cers of thesameregiment .N.E. of the Artillery Mess is St.Vincent De Paul

’

s Roman CatholicOkapel.

.

Oneof themost interesting spots atKirkee

, passed on the road to Poona,s Holkar’s Bridge over theMula river,3 stream which skirts Kirkee to theS.E. and N. Th e river is 200 yds.road at th is spot . On the rt . of the”

08d is an old English cemetery, and,m the l. , about 300 yds. to the N.

a the New Burial Ground. Aftertossing theMule, the road passes on

he rt. the tomb of Khande RaoHolkar, and on the l. are the Sappers

’

1ndMiners’ Lines, and after them theDeccan College and the lines of the28th Pioneers, rt . Beyond these are

he J amsh idji B and, the FitzgeraldBridge, and the B and Gardens (for allifwhich see below under Poona).

TheGovernment House is at Ganesh(hind

, 11»m. S.W .

-.ofKirkee rly. sta. ,

tower, 80ft. high , fromthetopofwh ichthere is a fine view— Kirkee, with its

powderworks, and the Deccan Colle e,

and Parbati H ill to the S.E. T e

h ouse contains the usual reception

rooms, a ballroom,darbar-room, etc. ,

and has a flower gallery or garden

corridor 90 ft. long. The woodwork of

the staircase is very beautiful .

119 m. POONAn: junc. sta. of the

G.I.P. andS.MarathaRlys. (seeRte. 23

The rly. sta. is conveniently situated

between the city and the cantonment ,and close to themost important publicofiices. Poona is the residence of the

Governor of Bombay during the rainyseason. It is the headquarters of the

Bombay army, and the ancient capitalof theMarathas. Th e pop. of Poona

is The first mention we

have ofPoona is in theMaratha annals

of 1599 A .D ., when the parganahs

of Poona and Supa were made over toMalaji Bhonsle (grandfatherofShivaji)b the Nizam Shahi Government . In

1 50 it became the Maratha capital

under Balaji Baji Rao. In 1763 it was

plundered anddestroyed byNizam’

A li,and here, on the 25th of October,Jeswant Rao B olkar defeated the combined armies of thePeshwa and Sindia,and captured all the guns, baggage,and stores of the latter. The citystands in a somewhat treeless plain on

the righ t of theMuta river, a little

before it joins theMula. A t its ex

treme 8 . limit is the hill of Parbati,so called from a celebrated temple tothe goddess Durga, or Parbati on its

summit (see below). A few m. to the

E. and N.E. are the hills which lead

upto the still h igher tableland in thedirection of Satara. The station is

healthy and the climate pleasant . The

Aqueductwas built byoneoftheRastias,a family of great distinction amongsttheMarathas. There are also exten

sive waterworks, constructed by Sir

Jamsh idji Jijibhai, wh ich cost upwards

of Of th is sum the Parsi41d35m. N.W . of the city of Poona. baronet contributedt derives its name from a smallMindI'

pass between hill s, about 2m. S.E.

ft eh

TheAssembly Rooms or Gymkhanais a large building and contains a hand

ouse, wh ich resembles amodern some ballroom,with a sta e at one end

’rench chateau, and has a tall slim for theatricals and the nitcd Service

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

soon : 24 . rooms

it. All arededicated toMahadeo, andthough small, areextremely handsome.

At 300 yds. from the Eu eeringColl is Sir A lbert Sassoon 3 H ouse,

call Garden Reach . It was built between1862 and 1864, and cost

The gardens are beautiful, and extendalong the bank s of the river. Therooms intheprincipal house are flooredwith marble. The fine dining

-room isconnected with the h ouse by a long,Open gallery. Beside it is an openmom, with sides of carved wood, wherethe family dine during the Feast ofTabernacles. Theceilingofth edrewingroomis beautifully decorated by Poonaartists. In it is a full-length portraitofDavid Sassoon, Sir Albert

’

s father,whomust have been strikingl h andsome. A fountain in the gar en andthe water-tower sh ould be noticed.

Permission to view it would no doubtbe ted on application.

om this it is a pleasant drive of12m. to the J amsh idji B and and th eFitzgeraldB ridge. TheB and is ofstonethrownacross theMula river, and on

the S. side of it are the pretty BundGardens ofsix acres.

The view of the Fitzgerald Bridge

fromtheB and is very pretty above itlsthebroad stream, 350 yds. wide

, on

Which rowing matches take place,chiefly in August. Farther along inthis direction, towards Kirkee (seeabove), is the Deccan College, built°fgraytrap-stone, in the Gothic st le,at a cost of rs.

, of which half“(is contributed b Sir Jamsh idjiqbhai It was esigned by Captain H. C . W ilkins, R .E. , and con

fllgts of the central block two stories

high. with two wings, forming three

81 (38 of a quadrangle, surmounted byahnh itched iron roof coloured red .

.

At t 9 .W . corner of themain block18 a tower 106 ft . high . Th e wingsareoccupied by students, and themainbuilding contains class -rooms andlaboratory,with a large College H all 70ft. long above, containing th e Library .

.

For a native town the streets of themy are wide, and some of the olderhouses are substantial buildings andtXtremely picturesque. It is dividedmto seven quarters, named after the

days of the week in which themarketwas held. Amongst the industries ofthe town may be mentioned themaking of gold and silver thread and wire

for ambroids and for a simple kindofjewellery, t e stringing ofbeads and

berries for ornaments, and brass-workof all kinds. In the Sh auwer, or

Saturday division, are the remains of

th e Peshwa’

s Castle, called Junawada,or old palace,

”a large enclosureabout

180 da. sq. It was built by th e

grandfather ofthe last Peshwa, and wasa grand building, till burnt down in

1827 . Onl y themassive walls remain.

In front is an open space where a

vegetablemarket is h eld. About 110

yds. to th e N. is a stone brid e, over

wh ich a road leads to the vi la e of

Bamburda and theSangam. The core

are very large, and covered with iron

spikes. Above the gateway is a smallbalcony supported on pillars. H ere is

the terrace from wh ich , in 1795, the

young Peshwa, Mbada Rao, threw

h imself,and died two da 8 afterwards

of the injuries he receive in the fall .

H ere, too, in 1773, Nara an Rao, at

the age ofeighteen,after e had been

but ninemonths Peshwa, was savagelymurdered by two ofh is guard.

Not far from th is castle is a street

in wh ich , under the Peshwas, ofl'

enders

were executed by being tram led to

death by elephants. One of t emostmemorable of th ese executions, on

account of the princely rank of the

sufferer, was that of W ittoji H olker,broth er of th at Jeswant Rao H olkar

wh o, the same year, won th e batt le of

Poona. The last of the Peshwas, BajiRao, beh eld the agonies of the victimfrom a window of h is palace, where,on the morning of the l et of April

1800, he took h is seat with h is favourite

Balaji Kunjar in order to glut his

eyes with th e revolting sigh t .

In the Budhwar or W ednesday

quarterofth e city aresomeoldMarathapalaces, and the quondam residence of

Nana Farnavis, a shabbymansion witha small court-yard and fountain andmany small dark rooms and dingypassages . On the outskirts of the town

is a very large J ain temple with

Chinese-look ing ornaments .

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

334 ROUTE 24 .

fine JummaMusjid.

BOMB AY TO m u s India

In 1690 Adoni was never finished, but is the meetwas taken, after a desperate resist imposing. SeeFergusson, pp. 375-378.

ance, by one of Aurangzib’s generals,

and afterwards fell to the Nizam.

Salabat Jang granted it in jagir to

Bazelat Jang, h is cungarbrother, wh o

made it his capita and endeavoured to

form an independent state. H e died

in 1782, and was buried at Adoni, and

a fine mosque and tomb were erected

over h is grave and th at of h is mother.

Government ant 1200 rs. year] for

the support 0 these buildings an the

ch arities connected with them, but the

edifice has gone sadly to decay. In

1786 th e citadel was captured by Tipu

after one month’

s siege. H e demolished the fortifi cations, and removedthe guns and stores to Gooty. In 1792

it was restored to the Nizam, and ex

changed by him with the British in

1799 A .D. forotherplaces. The citadel

is built on five h ills, of wh ich the best

known are the Barakila and the Tali

banda, both ofwhich rise 800 ft . above

the plain. H alf-way up the rock is a

fine tank containing good water, and

never dry.

518 m. Guntakal junc. sta. (R. )From th is junc. the line runs N.W .

to Bombay, S.E. to Madras , S. to

Bangalore, N.E. to Bezwada, Vizaga

atam, Vizianagram (on the way to

uttack ), and W . to Bellary, H ospet

(for Vijayanagar), and Goa.

536m. Gooty sta. (R. ) Nearly2m. S.

of the railway station is an interest ingold h ill-fort . It was taken by H yder’Ali in 1776 aftera siege ofninemonths.

The water failed, and thegarrison were

forced by th irst to surrender. The

fort is 950 ft. above theplain, and 2000

ft. above the sea. Sir Th os. Munrowas buried at Gooty, but was suhac

quently removed toMadras. There is

hmonument to h im in the churchyardere.

566 m. Tadpatrl sta. (R. ) Thetown was founded during the time ofthe Vijayanagar kings about 1485,when the hly decorative templeswerebuilt. e one on theriver-bank

632 m. Ouddapah sta . (R. )

710 m. Renigunta sta. (R. junction of theMetre-gauge State Railway(1) N.E. to Nellore (see below ), and

(2) S. and S.E. to Tim ati (see below),Ve

)

llore(Rte. and illupuram (Rte.

31

(1) [75 m. Nellore sta. (R. ) Chief

town of the district, stands on the rt.bank of theRiverPeunar 8m. from itsmouth inh ab .) H ere, in the

ruins ofa H indu Temple, was found a

pot ofRoman gold coins and meda ls ofthe 2d cent . There are hereMissionsof the Roman Catholics, Scotch Free

Church , American Baptists , and H er

mansburg Lutherans ]

(2) [8m. Tirupati sta. , at: D.B. Thistown of inbah . , crowded at all

times with pilgrims, is celebrated forone ofth emost sacred Hill Pagoda: inS. India. It stands at the top of the

holy h ill”

cal led Tirumala , and is

about 8m. from the rly. sta. Travellersmust bewe ofth ieves, wh o arenumerous. U n t e h ill theywill bebymen icants. Lookingfrom t e town

only one path up th e h lll can be seen

along wh ich at intervals are three

go uras, or gateways, under which the

p’

grims ass. Th e last gopura is at

the top 0 the h ill. On the other side

of th e h ill there are path s up, but all

very diffi cult . For some years the

temple was under themanagement ofth e British Government, but in 1843

ch ar e of it was given over to aMahantor indu Abbot, who with his 00

auth orities controls the expenditure

and th e worsh ip. The antiquity of

th e temple is indisputable, but itsori in is involved in obecuri The

ido is an erect stone figure 7 h igh ,with four arms, representing Vishnu.

No Euro ean ascended the hill on

which is pper Timpati, that is thetemple and its suburbs, till 1870, whenthe Superintendent of Police, in spite

of the remonstrancee of theMahant,went up in search ofan escaped forget .

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

MADRAS CITY

of mixed Saracenic, Ionic, and Doric

architecture. Government has since

greatly improved the palace, and the

whole building is now in theMoorishstyle, presenting a most imposing a

prance. Th e entrance, by the We

ajah Road, is through an ornamentalteway with representations in porce

ih of the various incarnations of

Vishnu, executed b theMadras Sch oolofArts . Th e buil ing is now occupied

by th e B oard of Revenue Ofi ces. At

tach ed to it on the S. is the Civil

Engineering College, and to the S. of

th is is the Presidency College, a fine

large building in th e Italian style.

W . of th is agam is theGosha, or Caste,H ospital hidden amongst trees, and

beyond it is the fine ground and

avilion of theMadras Cricket C lub.

of the oldpalace is the SenateH ouse,designed, like many oth er buildings inMadras, byMr. Chisholm. It was begun

in 1874 and com leted in 1879 at a costof rs. C ose to the S. entrance,facin

lg‘aChepauk palace, will be seen the

J ubi statue of the Queen Empress, areplica oftheBoehm statue at W indsor,

presented to the city by Rajah GajapateeRow ofVizagapatam. 1 m. S.W .

of the Senate H ouse is Triplicane, a

crowded district containing the palace

where the Prince of Arcot resides, and

a famous Mohammedan mosque and

H indu temple.

ThePromenadeby th eSea-shore.

TheMarina, the fashionable drive and

promenade at Madras,is by the sea

shore, from the southern extremity of

the Fort southward over the Napier

Bridge, andpast theSenate H ouse, theRevenue Board Offi ce, the C ivil Engin

cering Colle e, the D. P.W . offi ces, the

Presidency olle e, as far as th eCapper

H ouse H otel . hence Cath edral Road

runs nearl dueW . about 2 m. to St .

George’

s athedral , th eMount Road,and the suburb ofAdyar. A great part

of th ese roads is overhung b migh tybanian trees, forming a tuune through

wh ich one drives in agreeable coolnesseven wh en th e sun is h ot .The Mount Road extends from

Government H ouse to the Mount , 7m. The best European shops liebetween Government H ouse and the

CHURCH ES.

Th e Cath edral (St . George’

s) stashl . in an enclosure, a little beyondNeil

'

s

statue along the Mount Road.

'

lhe

exterior is not h andsome, but the

dazzling wh ite chunam and the verynumerous and remarkably handsome

tablets and tombs, and the lollyand massive pillars in the interior,

produce a very leasing impressionA t the E. end of t e N. aisle is a fine

monument to the Righ t Rev. Daniel

Corrie, LL.D first Bishop ofMadrasThe monument to Bishop Re aid

H eber, who died in 1826, is on eh.

wall of the N. aisle,and represent!

h im confi rming two natives. Nona

too th e monument to Major Georg!Broadfoot, C .B .

,wh o was one of tha

illustrious garrison ofJellalabad.

St. Mary’

s Church , in the Fortbuilt 1678-1680, was the first Englisl

church built in India : it stands ll.

and S. SirThos.Munro, LordHobartand other distinguished persons an

buried here. There is someinterestin;

Club. The principal H otels are also

in this neighbourhood.

General Neil's Statue op site the

entrance to the Club. At t e bweis

a fine alto -relievo of a battle, with

H ighlanders and guns, and at theback

is, Erected by public subscription,

1860. On the other two sides arethe

names ofthe non-commissionedofficers

and men who fell in the actions in

wh ich Neil was engaged. Then is

also an inscription recordinghis death

at Lucknow

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

ROUTE 25 .

as th ismay begathered from thebird 3eyeview (woodcut , precedingpage). Asan artist ic design, noth ing can beworse.

Th e gateways irregularly spaced in a

great blank wall lose half their dignityfrom their positions ; and the bath os

of th eir decreasing in size and elabora

tion as they approach the sanctuaryis amistakewh ich nothing can redeem,

W e may admire beauty of detail, and

be astonished at the elaboration and

evidence of labour, if they are found

in such a temple as this, but as an

architectural design it is altogether

detestable.

”

ROUTE 25

W ADI JUNCTION 'ro H YDERABAD ,

SEC‘

UNDEBABAD, (GOLKONDA ,Bryan)W A RANGAL, a wana ,

Vrzs ea

mu n , VIZIANAGRAM, PUB I AND

Con s ort .

E .H . th eNizam’

s State Rly.

376m. fromBombay, Wadijunc. sta.

R. ) (see p.

9 m. Chittapur sta. extensive silk

manufactures. About 1 m. to the

S . is Nasal, a deserted town with

ruined tem les dating from 1050 A .D .

In one of t em is a life size bull cut

out of a solid block ofbasalt.

24 m. Seram sta . A richly carved

temple, of1200 A .D .

44 m. Tandur sta. Small andlarge game.

88 m. Shankarpalli sta. From hereis a fair weather road to Bidar

,10m.

(see p.

100 m. Lingampalli sta. Soon after

th is th e line is very picturesque, dottedwith numerous granite peaks and

isolated rocks. Th is stonebelt extends

to Bh unigaon, 28 m. E. ofH yderabad.

115 m. HYDERABAD sta. :k 12m.

from th enearest city gate. T he capital

of H .H . the Nizam’

s territory. The

city (pop. ,with suburbs,

stands on the S. bank of theMusiriver, with Golkonda to W . , and the

cantonments of the British troops, thecontingent, and the Residency and itsbazaars to theN.

Th e stateofwh ich Hyderabad is thecapital covers sq. m.

,with a

HYDERAB AD 345

pop. of and is by far the

argest native state in India. The cit

is tamed for its warlike,and varied?

population. Formerly all the inhabit

ants always carried weapons, but owingto the peace and rosperity wh ich h ave

come with Britis influence, th e habit

is not now universal. It is still the

custom,among the up er classes, to

can an ornamented agger in the

gird e,or a sword suspended from a

gold lace belt, when paying visits . In

th is custom servants imita te their

masters, and most of the shopkeepers

in the bazaars continue it.

There is a very beautiful Public Plea

sure-ground N. of the station. In th is

garden are two pavilions, and at one

end a menagerie. There is also a piece

of water in the grounds. Th e smallbranch linewh ich connects th e railwaystation and the workshops is not used

for passenger traffi c. Dominating th eN. part of the garden is a black rock

called Naubat Pahar, the Guard

Rock , wh ich is very picturesque.

Fateh Maidan, a plain that lies be

tween the black rock and Chadar

Ghat , is the Nizam’

s polo ground.

Near the public gardens is the Saifabad Cantonment of theNizam

’

s regular

troops. It is very neatly laid out .

Th ere is an old mosque here built byKh airatbai. The powder

-magazine isbelieved to be h er tomb.

The Residency stands about 1 m.

N.W . of the city in a suburb called

Chadar Ghat , and is surrounded by a

bazaar containing 12,000 inh abitants.

The unds are extensive, and ful l of

gran old trees, and are enclosed by a

wall,which was strength enedby ColonelDavidson after th e attack 11 on the

Residenc on themorning of 1 th J uly1857 . Th at attack was made by a

band of Roliillas and others, and was

repulsed by the troo s at theResidencyunderMajorBriggs,

IMilitary Secretary.

Bastionswerethen erected commandingthe a proaches, but the placewas not

attac ed again.

On the site of the Residency therewas formerly a villa belon g to a

favourite of Nizam’

Ali, an in it Sir

J ohn Kennaway, wh o was ap inted

Resident in 1788, was reoeiv The

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

350

of orange and other fruit trees. The

court used frequently to be h eld h ere.

the Nau Mahal the ruins

It is, however, im ssible to

identify most of them. ere is a

lofty granite structure, said to have

been used as a Nakar Khana (musicroom), or Madrissa (college), wh ichforms the entrance to th e first line of

the Euler H isar, or citadel fortifica

tion. A little to th e righ t of th is is

the JummaMusjid, a small building.

AnArabic inscription over the gatewaystates that it was erected in 1569 A .D.

The B ala H isar is on the summitof the h ill, enclosed by the Fort walls.

Its heigh t above th e plain may be

roughlyestimated at 400 ft . Passing

throng a rden, the B ala H isar

Gate 18 reao ed. It is one of the

largest in theFort , and has beein good repair. Adjoining theway on the righ t side are the rums

of the uarters of the garrison maintained

(

here in the time of the Kutb

Shahimonarchs. Opposite th equartersof the garrison is a vast u per

-storied

building of granite, call the Sili

Khana , or armoury, where spare armsand ammunition were kept . Fromhere the ascent to the summit isaccomplished b a series of rou

gh ly

paved steps. alf-way up is a arge

well,from wh ich the garrison used to

get its water-supply.

A sh ort distance from here are the

ruins of the Ambar Khana, or king’

s

treasure-h ouse. A block of granite

wh ich has fallen from its position over

the entrance contains a Persian in

scription to the effect that it was

erected in th e reign of Abdullah Kutb

Shah,1642 A .D. H ere th e last line of

wall wh ich encircles the citadel is

reach ed. In its construction advantage

has, been taken of th e huge boulders,

which havein someinstances beenmadethe bases of the wall. The masonrymust be several hundred years old.

On the summit of the h ill formerlystood the King

’

s Palace, the ruins of

wh ich still form a cons

picuous object.

The front appears to ave been cc

cupied b a lar e courty sur

rounded by buil ings, very few ofwh ich , h owever, now remain. On th e

ROUTE 25 . WADI J UNCTION TO BEZWADA India.

(Maul Ali h ill). Below lie th e ruins

of the once famous Kutb Sh ahi capital,intersected with the massive-lookingfortifi cations wh ich gave Aurangzib

much more trouble than heanticipated,and wh ich , but for treach e within,would probably have resiste all his

efforts. In th e LowerFort, on th eN.

side, th ere is a deer preserve belongingto H .H . th e Nizam,

wh o sometimescomes to sh oot h ere. In the plain

outside th e walls of th e Fort are the

remains of two stone platforms withseats, from wh ich the k ings used to

review th eir troops. 1 m. to th eN.W . ,

built upon two eminences, are the

and Mug’

id of B agmati

(after whom H yderabad was first

called Bhagnagar), a favourite mistress of th e Kutb Shah king,Muhammad Kuli. Beyond the Banjara Gateare the massive tombs of all the

Golkonda kings. On all sides rise

masses of granite and low h ills, takingthe most fantastic shapes, and sometimes a

ppearing like subsidiary forts

erected y th e hand of man. The

popular legend as regards th e peculiarity of their position and a

Eu r

-ance

is th at the Creator after finiging the

W . side are the ruins of th e palace,the walls ofwhich are of a great thick

ness. The building appears to have

been su ported on lofty arch es, mostof whio are still standing. In one

corner there is a large circular opening,said tobe th e entranceofa subterranean

passagzte

zltending to th e GoshaMahal,

3 m. t . Most probably , h owever,the passage, if there is one

, extendsonly as far as the lower fortifi cations.

A stone staircase in theW . side of the

building leads to the roof, which is flat,and is surmounted by a small stone

takht, or throne.

The view from here, embracing as it

does many miles of country, is at all

times charming, and well worth the

rather fatiguing climb from below.

To th e E. lies

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

hours 26.

others, make it probable that th eywere dedicated to Wali, h is broth er,and h is wife. Mr. Fergusson, at p.

374, ascribes to Vitoba , a local manifestation ofVishnu, the one wh ich the

local people refer toWali, erected 1529

1542 A .D . ,but never finished } The

shrine of th is great temple was never

fi lled it was never used as a lace of

worshi nor was it ever formally con

The legend is th at in th e

p} nitude of their power the Rajas of

i'

ayanagar determined to bring thehe y image of Krishna wh ich is at

Pandarpur to Vijayanagar, and buil t

th is tern Is to exceed in beauty everyth ing be ore erected in the Deccan to

receive it ; but wh eth er it was, as the

Brahmans inform visitors, that thegod

would not move ; or that , h aving cometo look at the new temple, said it wastoo good for h im ; or because attentionwas diverted b serious troubles with

th eMohamme ans, the removal wasneveraccomplished. The three tem les

stand in an enclosure wh ich has our

low opuras ; they are good examplesof t e Dravidian style. There 18 a

stone w t, or car, close to the temple onth e righ t , as you enter th e enclosure,and two stone pavilions for lodgingtravellers. The stone carwh ich stands

a few aces from the tem lo justdescribe is 26 ft . 4 in. big sadlydisfigured in 1803 by an rll-jud ed

restoration in chunam. The ia

meter of the wheels is 4 ft . 3 in.

W hether the car was ever moved isdoubtful. The wh eels can be moved,and thasockets inwh ich the axlework s

areworn and ch afed as ifbymovement .

The second temple, wh ich is on th e

left of the entrance into the enclosure,is much th e largest , and perba th e

finest . Th e ceilingwas formed 0 slabs

ofgranite 35 ft . long, but all the slabs

h ave been thrown down exce t one in

th e centre. Two slabs stan against

the wall , 2 ft . 6 in. wide, and 2 ft .

th ick . Th ere are fourteen columns,wh ich supported the roof. Most of

th em are carved into representations1 See also the Indian Antiquary, vol . ii. p.

178, wh ich gives an extract from the BellamyDistrictManual , by J . Kelsall , wh ichsays : The finest temples of all are about 1or. lower down th e river.

”

356

secrate

dams J uNorioN ro BszwAnA India.

of h orsemen mounted on yalis. One

represents the Narsing Avatar. In

some cases th e yalis are supported byelephants . The pavemen t consists of

huge granite slabs . O ne is 12 ft. 7 in.

long, and 7 ft. 7 in. broad, and the

others are about that size. Withinis a court 100 ft . long from E. toW.,

and 62 ft. broad from N. to S. This

temple is thou h t by some to have

been sacred toWishnu,and the repte

scutation of th e Narsing A vatarmakesth is probable. On the S . side are

numerous Kanarese inscriptions. S. of

the temple is a large dharmsala withsixty

-two illars, on wh ich are curious

reliefs of emale monkeys and dwarfs,so th is may be th e Tara temple. On

th e ri

ght of the entrance is a platform

with t irty-ninesh orterpil lars . These

were carvedwith most curious represen.

tations ofmonkeys, theirheads crownedwith two small figures of gods. The

th ird temple is some 20 yds. N. ofthe

ra t. It is probably sacred to W ali and

Su'

va.

om th is the travellermay go 11m.

to the E. to the bank of t h e Tunga

bhadra Opposite Anagundi. There is

a large tree wh ich afi'

ords some shelter

from the sun wh ile waiting for the

ferry-boats, wh ich are circular baskets

covered with bullock h ides and 10 ft.

in diameter, the Indian formofcoracle

The will each take twenty persons, or

a pa kiwith twelve bearers. Th e boats

are safe but inconvenient . Th ere are

some inch es ofwater at the bottom of

35 8 acorn 26. cm ae JUNCTION 'ro snzwans India

E. to Budihal, 8 m. distant, where itabru tly terminates. A h igh pointin is range is opposite to the Fortof Bellary, within 4 m. of it , and iscalled the CopperMmmtain, the heigh tbe

'

1600 ft. above theplain, and 2800ft. a ve the sea. Excavations are stil lto be seen, said to be the remains of

mines worked by order of H yder’

Ali,

but abandoned in consequence of the

expense exceeding the profi t. Besidescopper, hwmatitic iron ore is found inlargequantities, someofwh ich possessesmagnetic properties.

It is an easy climb up to the

built on a bare granite rock of semielliptical form, rising abru ly fromthe plain to the heigh t 0 45

and about 2 m. in circumference.

rock is defended by two distinct linesof works, constituting the lower and

upper forts, both built of granite. In

the upper one, the summit of which

is flat and ofconsiderableextent , standsthe citadel, which is re uted to be of

great antiquity, and mi t be renderedalmost impregnable. t affords, h owever, no accommodation for troops,and is consequently never occupiedexcept by a small guard. The cells forthe military prisoners are built with in

it. Several tanks orcisterns have beenhollowed out in the rock to h old rain

water : the system of their construc

tion is worthy of notice. The lower

fort , which is ofmore recent construc

tion, consists of low bastions connected

togetherby curtains. Its shape is quad 278 m. Cumbum sta. (R. )rangular ; it has adry ditch and covered 383 m. Guntur sta. (R. )way in front, and surrounds the base of The Rly. crosses the Kistna river bytherock from its S.W . to its N.E. angle. a huge bridge just below th e irrigation

The lower fort was built by Tipu in dam before entering1792. Theupperfort h as six bastions, 400 m. Boun ds (R.) D .B . Th is

and deep cavities always full of fresh is also the terminus of th e Nizam’

s

water. There is a granite pillar 36 ft . State Rly. from W adi, H yderabad, and

h igh , with figures of H anuman and W arangal . A line h as recently been

other deities close to an ancient, squat opened from Bezwada to Barang (for

pa oda sacred to Sh iva. Cut tack ) and Puri (J agannath ). See

e present fortifi cations were built Routes 21 and 25 . An importantby a staff of French engineers, tradi trading

-

place on the most frequentedtion adding that after the new citadel crossing of the Kistna river. A fort

had been completed H yder’

Ali hanged was erected here in 1760, but has sinceth e French engineers at the gate, as been dismantled. There are rock -cut

h e found that h is fort was commanded Buddh ist temples and Hindu pagodas.by anotherrock . The place came into In mak ing excavations for canalsmany

possession of the British in 1800. remains wereexposed, which show that

The Arsena l is at the foot of the

Fort Rock in th e S.W . angle. A tank

lies to the S. of the Fort , fed by a

stream. The N. I. regiment lines are

at the extreme S.W . ofth e cantonment.Th e barrack s of the English Infantryare Ii m. to th eN.E. H ere areTrinityChurch and the Roman Catholic

Church . Th ere is also a h andsomechurch , built at the expense ofMr.Abraham, of fine white stone brought

from Sh ahabad.

124 m. Guntakal junc. sta. See

p. 334.

167 m. Kumool Road sta .

5 m. distant is Dhone. D. B .

[From h ere Kumool is distant 33

m. N. by road. This is th e Camel

of Guns. Pop. A civil sta

tion. The town stands at the junction of the H indri and Tungabhadra

rivers. The old fort was dismantledin 1862, but four bastions and three

gates still stand. Troops were stationed

in it until 1871 , and it stil l contains

the palace of the Nawabs. There is

a fine mausoleum of Abdul W ahsb,e first Nawab, and several mosques.

17 m. up stream at Sunkesa la are the

head works of the canal the journeycan be done in a canal boat. )214 m. Nandyal sta. Called from

Nandi, the bull of Shiva. There are

several Sh ivite temples h ere. Before

reach ing it the line passes through the

Gerramalai H ills by many picturesque

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

360 acorn 27 . H UBLI'ro H ULLAB ID AND BANGALORE India

(2) 17 m. W . of Bezwada by road is

Amaravati, on the righ t or 8. bank of

theKistna river. It is a place ofmuchinterest to antiquarians as an ancient

centre of the Buddhist religion, and

the site ofa great Tope,‘ofwhich , how

ever, scarcely anyth ing remains in sita .

W hat there is lies to the S. of the

town, just be ond th e outer huts.

Dr. Burgess cal it a deeply interest

ingmonument ofantiquity unequalledfor the delicacy of its detail by any of

the remains of Indian Arch itectural

Art.”

Recent injudicious excavations

have created such confusion in the

debris that the chances of forming an

idea of the original size and structural

arrangements of the tops have for everbeen destroyed. Many examples ofthe sculpture are to be seen in theBritishMuseum. Before 1790 the topeis said to have presented the appearance of a very large low tumuluscrowned by a smaller one about 30

yds. in diameter, and 20 ft . h igh ,wh ich had been covered with brick ,and was locall known as Dipa ldinne,or the H ill of

'

gh t .

N. and N.W . of Amaravati are thesites of former diamond-workings, all

on theN. bank of the river.

ROUTE 27

H vsm JUNCTION '

ro H ULLAB ID AND

BANGALO RE.

Hubll junc. sta. (R. ) is betweenLonda

junc. and Gadag junc. , and 127 m. byrail E. ofMarmogoa harbour on theW . coast .

81 m. Harihar sta . (R. ) on the rt .

bank of the Tungabhadra. In 1868 a

very fine bridge was constructed over

the river. An inscription on copper

has been found here of the 7th cen

tury, and there are several of the 12th .

The tern ls was erected in 1223. In

1268 ad itions were made by Soma,the founder of Somnathpur in the

Mysore district . In 1277 Saluva

1 Bee Fergusson'

s H ist. of Ind . Arch ,

2, 98, 99 , 102, and l y J . Burgess , Lifg.

Amaravati and J a a to Stu Lo1887.

99 2104” pas, ndon

Tikkama built a temple toMahadeva.

The Kings of Vijayangar bestowedmany benefactions on these templesdown to the 16th centu After the

fall ofVijayanagar, the arik ere chiefs

seized the place and built th e fort .

178 m. Banawar sta.

[The renowed ruins of H ul labid he20m. S.W . from this point by road ;

J amgal (12 m. ) A t 10 m.

d in the same direction is B lur.

W e take these places on th e return

journey to the railway station .

Belur (or Baillur), on th e rt . bank

of the Yagache, pop. about 3000. In

the Puranas and old inscriptions it is

called Velapura, and is styled the S.

Benares. H ere is the famous templeof Chenna Resava, erected and endowed

by theH oysalaking, Vishnu Vardhana,on exchangingl

the J ain faith for that

ofVishnu 111 t e beginning of th e 12th

century. The carving with wh ich it

is decorated rivals in des'

and

finish that of Hullabid,

sing-u

is the

work of the same artist , J ak anachari.

The image ofChenna Resava is said to

have been brough t from th e Babs

Budan h ills, but that of h is goddeawas left behind, wh ich obliges h im to

pa her a visit there at stated inter

va a. The Great Temple stands with ina h igh wall which surrounds a court,440 ft . x 360 ft . In th is court are,

besides the Great Temple, four or fi ve

smaller ones . On the E. front are two

fine gopuras. It consists,

”

says Mr.Fergusson, of a very solid vimanah

,

with an antarala, orporch ; and in frontofth isaporch oftheusual star-likeform,

measuring 90 ft . across. Th e arrange

ments of the pillars h avemuch of that

pleasing subordination and variety of

s cin

g’wh ich is found in th ose

.

of the

sins, ut we miss h ere the octagonal

dome, wh ich'

ves such poetry and

meaning to t e arrangements theyadopted. Instead of these we h ave

only an exag ers ted compartment inthe centre, w ich fi ts noth ing, and

,

t hough it does give dignity to the

centre, it does it so clumsily as to be

almost offensive in an arch itectural

sense. The windows to the porch

are 28, and all different . Some are

h ours 27 .

they tended toward the severe intel

lectual puri ofthe one, or the playful

exuberant ancy of the other ; but

perfection, ifit existed, would be somewhere near themean.

Admiration for this vast templeshould not cause neglect of the groupof extremely beautiful J ain Bastis at

the farther end of the village.

J ama l — The temple here is dedios ted to Narsinga, and built entirelyof balapam,

or pot-stone. Buchanan

says : It is h ighly ornamented after

the H indu fash ion, and on the outside

eve part ofits walls is covered with

sma images in full relievo.

188 m. Arsikere sta. (R. ) Gold

mining has been started here with but

poor results as yet . 32 m. S. fromth is place is the town of Chanroya

pat'na .

1 The fort was built subec

quently, and Hyder’

Ali added the wet

moat and traverse gateways.

[At 8 m. S.E. of th is place is Shra

vana Belagola. Bhadra Bahu, th e

J ain sage, died here in the 4th centuryB . C . ,

and was a Shanta Iceca la,or

immediate “bearer”

of the six dis

ciples ofMahavira, founder of the J ainsect . Thech iefattendant ofth isworthyis said to have been the famous Em

pet or Chandragu ta, or Sandracottus,who abdicated to

'

ve the lifeofa recluse

with h im. These events are confirmedby inscriptions on th e rock of veryeat antiquity. The

handragupta is said to ave visited

the spot with an army, and from h is

camp arose the town of Shravana

Belgola or Belgola of th

Jains. Near the town, wh ich has

1300 inhabitants, are two rocky h ills

Indra -better and Chandragflrl. On

Indra -betta is a colossal statue of

Gomata Rays , 70 ft . 3 in. It is

nude, and faces the N. Th e face has

the calm look usual in Buddh ist

statues. The hair is curled in sh ort

spiral ringlets all over the h ead.

The cars are long and large, th e

sh oulders very broad, the arms hanging straigh t down with the thumbsoutwards, the waist small . From the

1 The temple was erected in 1600,

ndson of

H UBLI TO H ULLAB ID AND B ANGALORE

knees downwards the legs are unnatur

ally short ; the feet rest on a lotus.

Ant -hill s are represented rising on

eitherside,with a creepingplant springing from th em which tw ines round

the th ighs and arms, ending in a

tendril with bunches offruit. These

are intended to symbolise the deepabstraction of the sage, so absorbed in

meditation that the ants build and the

plants climb around h im unnoticed.

Though certainly 1000 cars old, and

probably 2000, the stone ook s as fresh

as if newly quarried. W ithin the

piclosure are 72 small statues, of

e a pearance, in compartments.An ins

lhription on th e front of the

colossus states that it was erected byChamunda Rays , who is said to have

lived 60 The place abounds with

inscriptions, the most interesting of

which are cut in the face of th e rock at

Indra-betta in ancient ch arac ters 1 ft.

long. On Chandragiri there are 15

J ain temples ]

288 m. Bangalore junc . sta . (see

p.

248 m. Ttunkur sta. (R. ) ch ief townand headquarters of a district of the

samename. A civil and military sta

tion, prettily situated at the S.W .

base of the Devara dur grou of

h ills. Po h e partymissioners Court-house is a curious

looking circular building, three stories

h igh . There is a W esleyan Missionhere

,with a chapel and several sch ools.

Glass bangles are extensively madeh ere ; and there are 120 forges where

arms and cutlery are produced. The

masons are specially noted for th e stoneidols they carve and musical instruments made here aremuch prized. In

the Tumkur district there are 3763cotton loomsand cotton-spinningwheels.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

ROUTE 28 .

proach so as to gain a completeview.

at at other seasons, after crossing

some 50 ft . of th e rocky bed Of theriver

, the traveller comes full on a

tremendous gulf. On three sides demad the sheets of silvery foam withstunning roar, and sh oot lik e rock etsdown an unbroken fall ofnear 1000 ft . ,

where, in the gulfbelow,an unfathom

able pool receives them. The riverbears several names, but h ere is calledtheKural . Its bed is here about 600ft .

across, of lateritemixed with mica andfels r

, worn and riven by theviolenceoft e stream into innumerable fantastic sh apes. In one place th ere appearsa succession Of waves of stone, and inanother rocks are piled on rocks in

perfect chaos, wh ile some again are

shapen into h ollow c linders,in wh ich

the stream boils andbubbles as in a

caldron.

Th ere are in all four falls,wh ich

have been called the Grea t Fall, theRoarer

,the Rocket, and th e Dame

Blanch e. In the first of these th ewater in considerable volume leapssh eerdown a hei h t of829 ft.

,measured

by line, and fa 3 into a pool 132 ft .

deep. The spectator ma look sh eerdown into this abyss. iewed frombelow and at some distance, this fallcontrasts with magical effect with thenext fall, the Roarer. H ere a still

larger body of water rush es with lessabruptness, foaming down a tortuous

ch annel into a cavern or on which

turns it into thebed below. e name

given to thenext fall, theRocket, is veryappropriate. It continually sh oots outin jets of foam, wh ich burs t lik e firerock ets into sh owers ofglitteringdrops.

Th eDameB lanche is exquisitely beautiful , but , from above, seems quite gentleas comparedwith th e other three. The

guides conduct the traveller to three

points to view the falls from above,and it is difficult to say wh ich surpasses

t h e other. The descent is both steepand circuitous. It is said that tigers

h ave been seen h ere. To make thedescent after crossin the bed of th e

river, 9.wood is passe and some stepsare reach ed, out in the rock by a Rajahh alf a century a

go.

Th eQueen of ersoppa, called by the

rh ines t one 368

Portuguese the Boinka da Pimento, orPepper Queen, was a t dignitary inthe 17th century. er subjects were

ch iefly Jains, b whom the nearest

village to the fa is at present almostentirely inhabited. Amon the ruins

of the ci are two 0 ar J ain

temples. brough th erank and uxuri

ant vegetation you can sinly makeout the streets and even t e houses.

407 m. Mangalore, the capital of

S. Kanara, in theMadras Presidency.

The anch orage is 2 m. from the sh ore.

Boat h ire, 12r. each boat . Pop.

Mangaloreis separatedfrom thesea by abackwaterformedby thejunctionoftwostreams. Inth erains theserivers,wh ichflow round two sides Of a peninsula on

wh ich thetown and cantonment ofMangalorestand,bringdown a largequantityOfwater

,and they are thennavigablefor

boats of some burthen to a considerable distance inl and. In the dryseason there is but litt le current in

either, except that caused by the in

huenes of the tide, wh ich flows to about9 or 10 m. from their mouth . Th e

banks of these rivers are h igh and

steep, and are, where the soil permits,planted with cocoa-nut trees, or laid

out in gardens and rice-helds. At the

back of the present landing-

place th e

fleet bazaar commences, and stretch es

on the edge of the backwater

about 111. The eneral appearance of

Ma ore from t 9 sea is picturesque.

The ouses are detach ed, particularlythose towards the N on separate

hills, wh ence an extensiveview is to be

had, wh ile the th ick woods add much

to the beauty of th eplace. In ancient

timesMangalore was a place of very

great commerce. Ibn Batuta, in th e

middle of the 14th century, speaks of

4000Mohammedan merchants as re

sident there. Forbes speaks of it , in

1772, as the principal seaport in th e

dominions of H yder’

Ali, and well

situated for commerce. Moreover,

both H yder’

s and Ti u’

s sh ips Of war

were built at Manga ore, of the fineteak produced on the slopes of the

ghats. But in the last forty years considerable changes have taken place inth e harbour, which commercially,

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

370 sour-s 28. nouns ! ro COLOMBO India

Pacheco, when theZamorinwith a largeh ost invaded the country b land and

Pachecowith his brave of400 a

men firmly resisted all the attacks of

the Zamorin, and at last forced him to

retreat to Calicut . In 1505 FranciscoAlrnsyda, thefirst Portugueseviceroy ofIndia, came to Coch in with a large

fleet , and was in 1510 succeeded byAlbuquerque. On Christmas Day 1524Da Gama died here, and was buried,according to Correa, whose narrative is part. There are also a g rsat numberthemost trustworthy, in the principal of black Jews in the intsnor, their

chapel of the Franciscan monasteH

r-

yénow used as the English church .

body was afterwards (1538) removed toPortugal. In 1530St . Fransis Xavier,the apostle of the Indies, preached inthese and made many converts.

In 155 the church ofSanta Cruz wasconsecrated as thecathedral ofa bishop.

In 1577 the Society of J esus publishedat Cochin the first book printed in

India. In 1585 Cochin appears to

have been visited by the Engli

sh

traveller Ralph Fitch , with his d

ofadventurers. In 1616 the En lish ,under Keeling, engaged to amis the

Zamorin in attack ing Coch in, on an

understanding that an English factorywas to be established there. Theserelationswere, however, broken off, andthe factory was built some years laterwith the consent of the Portuguese. am v

In 1663 the town and fort were ca

tared from the Portuguese by t e

Dutch , and the English retired to

Ponani. The Dutch tly improvedthe place and its 0, building sub

atantisi houses after the European

fash ion, and erecting quays, etc. In1776 theStateofCochinwas sub

'

u

gated

by Hyder. In 1792 Tipu cede thesoverei

gzltyto the British . In 1796

it was an by the British from the

Dutch , and in 1806, or,accordin to

another account , in 1814, the fo se

tionswere, by commandofGovernment,blownupwith gunpowder. Theexplosion threw down or shattered all thebest houses, and most of the Dutchfamilies who could afford it left.Cochin is remarkable as th e resi

dence of the black and thewhite J ews,who inhabit the suburbs of KalvatiandMottancheri

,which extend about

grineipal towns being Iritnr, Pam ,

benet ta, andMaleb. Th ere is everyreason forbelieving that the black J ewswere established at ore in the

3d or 4th century A .D. 0 use:

a copperfla t from th e Brghm

Prince of labar, conferring the said

place upon them, and dated 388 A.D. ,

or, accordingto H amilton, 490. People

h or

as are sweet

1

to

lqr‘r

l

t'

frneousMinaan as e s tiaais, w is

sometimpeec

scalled the Cochin lThere is an interesting east 0 Chris

tians in Cochin stats and elsewhere

on the Malabar coast, especially at

Kot tayam— the Harat ani. They are

often termed Nestorians, th ough theythemselves do not accept the name.They ascribe their conversion to the

preachmgofSt . Thomas, and until the

al 0 th e Portuguese th ey were a

united church , holding a simple faith.

About 350 they were joined by a

colony of S Christians, wh o are

said to h ave dad atMalabar and in

the 9th and l oth centuries more cam

m. along the backwater to the S.E.

of the town. InMott anch eri there isbut not handsomeKata/mm,

or of th:% and close to it isthe e of the wh ite J ews, orJ ews of erusalem, wh o are mid tohave arrived in India at a much morerecent date than the black J ews, whoseresidence dates from time immemorial.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

372

military station. There is a largesugar factory and distillery.

On approaching the town a small

pagoda 18 reached and portions of thetown-wall, which was a massive structure Of red brick . It was blown upwith gunpowder, but the foundationsremain, and huge fragments are seen

solid as rocks. Continuing the samecourse the bank Of the Palar,after i m. t e Delhi Gate is reached,wh ich is the only one that remainsso far uninjured that it is

to form an idea of what the

tion was. Above the gate is C liw’

s

room. Much Of the moat is now usedfor growing rice. Returning to the

Delh i Gate, take a road wh ich leads

S. from it into the heart of the old

town. Afterim. the Taluk C‘utclmvyis reached, a pretty building erected in

1874. After(passing this building, turn

to the E. an cross a very broadmoat ,which surrounded thecitadel, and isnowdry, with trees gro in it. H ereare

two small tanks, wh io once had foun

tains in thecentre. Thewaterwas raisedinto them by wheels turned by ele

hants. Thewater for the tanks wasrough t from a lar reservoir near the

Nawab’

s palace. ear this is theMakIn the same enclosure is the J ummaMusjid. The tomb has a stone insertedover thedoorwith an inscription,whichas s that theNawab died 1733 A .D .

OftheJummaMuajidisPalace of the Nawabs of the Gama/tic,on a mount overlooking the large lakecalled the Nawab

’

s Tank . The wallsOf the durbar-room are still standin

gaposite is theKaliMusjid, or B lac0 us, and near thepalaceis thetomb

of a ohammedan ascetic, Sh ah Kh izrLangotbund, with a rather handsomedome. TO the W . is the mosque Of

FakirMuhammad. Near it is a tomb,aps

arently unfinished, in wh ich was

lai the body of the NizamNasir Jang,murdered b the Nawab OfKadapa on

5th Decem er 1750. It was sh ortlafterwards removed to Hyderabad?J ust across the road is th e tomb OfTipu Auliya, or Saint Ti u, of brick ,wh itewashed. In the wall is a

stone with an inscription, wh ich says

ROUTE 29 . MADRAS TO BANGALORE AND nrsonn India

that Sa’

adatu’

llah Kh an erected th is

tomb forTi u, who was a man OfGod.

Whether pu Sultan

so

];his name

from this saint, or, asW says, fromaword signifying

‘tiger, is doubtful

Arcot derives its name from Ara

kadu,“six forests,

"wh ere six Rishis,

or holy men, dwelt. Adondai, who

conquered Tondamandalam in 1100

A.D ., drove out the aborigines fromthese forests, and built various templesthere. These went to ruin, and the

placeagainbecamedesolate, til] Hinduscame from Penuk onda and buil t a fort

there. Zu’

lfakar Khan, Aurangzib’

s

general, took Gingi in 1698 A .D . ,and

made Daud Kh an Governor Of Arcot,underwhich districtGingiwas included.

Th is Ofiicer colonised the coun with

Mohammedans. Until 17 12th e oh ammedan governors residedat Gingi, whenSa

’

adatu’

llah Khan, who first took the

title Of Nawab Of the Carnatic,made

Arcot his capital. Arcot , h owever, is

ch iefly known to us for th e glorious

ca ture anddefenceOfit b Capt. Clive,w 0 here laid the foun tion Of his

get celebrity. When th e French andends Sahib besieged Trichinopoly

in 1751, Olive led an expedition against

Arcot in order to divert a part Of the

enemy from the si Clive had withhim only 200 Eng h , with 8 Oflicers,6 of whom had never before been inaction he had also 300 Sepoys and 3field ieces. With this small force heleft adras on the26th Of Au and

arrived at Con'

everam on e 29th .

H ere he learn that the garrison of

Arcot amounted to 1100men. On the3181: he arrived with in 10m. of Arcot,andmarched on through a tremendousstorm Of thunder, ligh tning, and rain.

The enemies’ ies re rted th e m y

froid with whio the lish advanced

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

are India

the 21st ofMarch 1791 determinedto storm the place, there were five

powerful cavaliers (W

of the S. of India, vol. iii. p.

a fauaseobraye, ditch , and coveredway,but in no

’part was there a perfect

flanking de ence. The garrison however

, consisted Of 8000 menBah adur Khan, and there were besides2000 regular infantry in the Pet ta, and5000 irregular. In addition to all

,265m l addur sta. (R.)was formerly

Tipu himself, with an army very far an important place,but suffered heavilysuperior in numbers to that of Com during the wars wi th Tipu. Th ere are

t om 29. nannAs ro BANcat oss aNn utmost

wallis, was pre red to take advantageOfan erroron bepart ofthebedegers.The etta had been reviously taken bthe English on the th ofMarch , wita loss on their part of 131 killed andwounded. TheMysore n lostupwards Of 2000 men. s assaulttook place at eleven at nigh t , anduntil the Kiladar fell a determinedresistance was made. Tipu

'

s campthat nigh t was at J

Hi“, 6 m. to th e

S.W . , and at ui h tf he moved upwithin 1} m. O the Fort, but the

fit of the assailants overcame allcultice, and theFort was captured,

after a severe struggle, that same

two large Vishnavite temples here,sacred to Narasim Swami, and Van daRaja,

“th e Man -Lion,

"and “the

boon -giving King.

"A fine brick

bridge with seven arch es, built in1850, us the Shimaba, on the rifl

rt

bank 0 wh ich the town is buil t. e

fort was taken by theMysore generalin 1617, and H

ider rebuil t it, and

it was dismantle byin 1791.

[Expedition to the Falls of theCauvery.

D.E..B road 17 m. S. isMum,

headquarters of the Taluk of the a rse

ui h t. name, and a munici town. The

n the centre of the Fort is the Mysore ore an Maddur-Sivauarsenal, and there are some remains of mudram

.

intersect here. H yde!

Tipu’

s Palace. Some restoration has gave tlm town to his son Tipu, and

been done to the top story. There is the rice-fields near the tank are the

a small temple near theMysoreGate.site Of 8 which Tipu formed.

On the 2 th of March 1799 Tipu

The Lal Bagh , a most beautiful drew up h is army_2m. to th e W . of

garden, is said to havebeen laid out in the fort 82d “11086 of Malv'

allr.

the time of Hyder'

Ali. There is a 90 0 011 13 8 11 19advancedFl t}! the ht

fine collection of tro ical and sub 01: Chm “Of1113 m ytropical plants, and a arge collection

hrs immediate command, and the 10“Ofwild animals in cages.

[Nandidrug,a stronghill-fort 4856 ft.

abovesea-level, is 36m. N OfBangalore.

It was though t impregnable by Ta,

being inaccessible except from theand there stro y fortified. It wastaken, however, y General Meadowson the 19th October 1791, with theloss Ofonly th irty killed andwounded

,Col. Wellesley then moved to turn the

ch iefly by the tremendous masses Of enemy'

s righ t , when Tipu’

s infantry

granite rolled down the rock on the advanced in front of th eir guns, andcadreof the assailants. It was as the received the fire Of the 33d regiment

and the English artillery, until at 60

yds. from theEuropeans they gaveway,

was a mine. “To be sure !" said th eGeneral,

“there is a mine, a mine of

gold !”The largehouse on the summit

was a favourite retreat of Sir Mark011a in th e hot weath er. Thereare many objects of historical interestto be seen . one being Tipu

’

,s Drop a

ting from th e fortifi cationsand o£52

00

anginga precipice of 1000 it ]

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

384 nou'rn 29 . MADRAS 'ro BANGALORE AND ursons India

Hereabouts was the position of a

battery. W alkin still further fromthe fort and threa ing h is way throughthe thick ly-wooded country, he W111come on a roc -bedded small river.It is hard to rea that here we haveM‘Donald

’s Post. The rippling of

water is onl beard, except for the

occasional s ash made by a brigh tkingfisher s coting down into thestream, and in the distance the slow

creaking of the labourers’

water-lift .17th April 1799 Col .M‘Donald with

the2nd 12thMadras Infantry occu ied

the bank of the little Kaveri, w ich

thence was known by the name of

M‘Donald’s Post , and was afterwards

used as a depot for the engineers’

tools

and materials . Casualties th is da

two offi cers killed.

”

It is extreme yhard to trace the features of theground

owing to the dense foliage all about

this uarter.“311 the evening of the 3d ofMay

the situation of the army was ex

tremely critical. There was not at

this timemore than two days’

supplyoffood in camOpposite t e breach in battery

Agrarium village can at be

Returning along the canal , the tra

vellernow can proceed into the island

over Periapatam bridge, and then,turnin to the righ t, drive throughShah njam and visit Hyder Ali

’s

and Ti n’

a tombs , the Daulat Baghwhere ellesley lived three years, and

then on into the fort . The neighbour

hood of S. is full of interest . H yder

Ali and Tipu— the usurper and h is

son cost us many thousand brave

soldiers whose bones lie buried around

the capital on every side.

In the Fort on the N. side, and The Darya Daulat Bagh , a summerbetween the second and last walls, are palace of Ti u, just outside the Fort,the wretched places in which Colonel is distinguis ed for its graceful proBail lie and other military risoners portions and the arabesque work inwere confined from 1780 to t e peace rich colours wh ich covers it. Th e W .

in 1786. wall is painted with th e victo of

Hyder over Colonel Baillie near

A

dgood view of the city and sur jeveram in 1780. It had been defaced

roun mg country may be obtained by rior to the siege, but th e Duke ofascending one of the minars of the ellington, then Colonel ArthurWelJ umma Mus 1d, built by Tipu not lesle who made this en hislong before is death . The h ouses resi ence, had it resto It wasin the Fort have been for the most afterwards wh itewashed and almost

part demolished, and those that t e

main are greatly dilapidated. Th e

place is notoriously unhealthy. Th e

s

pot where the breaching battery was

paced is marked by two cannons

xed in the ground oppofi te the W .

an

gle, and close to th e river

’

s edge,an the breach itself is visible a

short distance to the righ t of the

road toMysore. All a long th is partwhere the stormers rush ed to the

plaugh ter

f

t

gzr;are

d

n

gw trees with

uxuriant o’

,nu t e grass vs

fresh l under them. Tipu’

s fl ea

is wit in the walls. Th e greater partof it has been converted into a ware

house for sandal -wood, and th e rest

has been demolished. I t was a verylarge building surrounded by a masive wall of stone and mud, and was

of a mean appearance. Th e privateapartments of Tipu formed a square,and the entrance was by a strong and

narrow passage, in wh ich four rs

were chained. W ithin was th e allin wh ich Tipu wrote, and to it fewexceptMir Sadik were ever admitted.

Behmd the hall was the bedchamber.The door was strongly secured on theinside, and a close iron ting defended the windows. Buc nan saysthat Tipu, lest any person sh ould fi reupon h imwhile in bed, slept in a hammock suspended fromth eroofbychains,in such a situation as to be mvisible

from thewindows. In th e hammockwere found a sword and a pair of loaded

pistols.

”

The only oth er passage ledinto the women

’

s apartments, whichcontained 600 women, of whom 80

were wives of the Sultan, and th e restattendants.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

ROUTE 30. MURKURTI PEAK 3 9 1

regatinglhim on the subject of his from a considerable distance. The

faith , t e old man said, I worship h istory of their construction is quite

th e Swami, who dwells in heaven, but unknown.

I k now not His name.

”

In going to It remains to say someth ing of the

th is peak the traveller follows the sport to be obtained on the Nilgiris,windings of the Pavhk riverto its con and of the natural products. Thefi nance with the Paikari. Thence he woods in general are so ornamentallyw il l trace the Paikat i to its source, disposed as to remind one of the parksw h ich is close to theMurkurti Peak . in a European country. They are

From the source of the Paikari an easy easil beaten, and from the end of

as cent of I} m. leads to the summit of Octo er toMarch woodcock are found

t h e peak ; and there, should themist in them. Jungle-fowl and spur

-fowl

and clouds fortunately roll away, a are very numerous. Partridges are

grand scene will present itself to the rare ; quails common in the lowerpartsview. The W . side of the mountain of the hills. Snipe come in in Sepis a terrific and perfect] perpendicular tember, and are seldom found after

precipice of at least 000 ft . The The solitary sni e (Scolopaa:mountain seems to have been cut sheer 18 occasionally 8 ct . There

t h rough the centre, leaving not the are blackbirds, larks , thrushes, woodsligh test shelve or ledge between the peckers, imperial pigeons, blue wood

pinnacle on wh ich the traveller stands pigeons, doves, and green plovers in

and th e level of the plains below. To abundance. Th ere is also an immenseadd to the terror of this sublime view, variety of h awks, and among themth e spot on wh ich the gazerplaces h is a milk -white species, with a large

feet is as crumbling as precipitous, the black mark between the wings ; as also

ground being so insecure that with a cream-coloured species. Large black

almost a touch large masses can be eagles are occasionally seen ; and owls

h urled down the prodigious h eigh t of various sorts, particularly an

into th e barrier forest at the foot of immense horned k ind. H ares and

th e h il ls, which at such a distance rcupines abound, and do muchlook s likemoss. damage to th e gardens. Both are

O th er sigh ts on the Nilgiris are the excellent eating the flesh of the

waterfal ls at U Yal-H atti, and those at cupine resembles delicate pork .

th e top oftheSigur Ghat there is also ungle sheep ormuntjak can be found

anoth er much finer fall, in the heart of in nearly all the sholas around the

th e Kundas, formed by the Bhawani, station. In themost inaccessibleparts400 or 500 ft . high , with a large body of the Kundas the ibex may be found,of water, and surrounded by scenery of but are very shy and difi cult to

th e most savagegrandeur, but it is difli approach . Among the lar r gamecult of access. The Ranga -Sm mi wild h ogs and sambar or e k afl

‘

ordTemple, and the fortress of Gagana good sport. Pole-cats, martins, jackals,C hukki, may also be visited. The wild dogs, and panthers are numerous.

native vill es of the Todas (the ab So, too, is the black bear, especially in

original h’

tribe) and other tribes the early part of the monsoon, whenmay be seen en route in any of th ese they ascend the h ills in pursuit of a

fiditions. large brown beetle, their favourite

e atone-circles, which the Todas food. Among the tall grass, wh ich iscall Ph ins, and which contain images, often as h igh as a man’

s head, and in

urns, relics , and some verytprett ily the th icker and larger sholas the royal

wrough t gold ornaments, are cund in tiger is not unfrequently met with .

manypartsoftheh ills, but themost convenient locality for a visit fromOotecamand is the hill ofKaroni, 8 m. to the

S. The circles are built of rough nuh ewn stone, some of them of a large

ave been brought

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

ROUTE 3 1 .

'rmcnmorom 403

island formed by a bifurcation of the rounds t he more sacred art, or real

river Cauvery, is the town of SMng temple, beyond wh ich is t e vimanah,

ham inbah . ) A bridge of or adytum, which none but H indus32 arches joins the mainland to the are allowed to enter.

island. At a th ird mandapam the jewels ofThe Great Tem

pl

vof Bri Rangam the templemay be examined. Observe

is about 1 m. N. of the bridge. three ornaments called Venkalath aTh e entrance from Trichinopoly is on Padukam, ofwhich two areofdiamondsth e 8 . side of the temple, by a grand andemeralds, and theth ird ofdiamonds

gateway, wh ich appears to have been and rubies. One of these is valuedbuilt as the base of a great gopura. at rs. Th ere are also several

Th is gateway is 48 ft . h igh from the coverin for the hands and feet of

ground to its terraced roo The sides idols 0 gold studded with jewels, as

of th e passage are lined with pilasters, well as large rings for the toes. Ohand ornamented. Thepassage is about serve too chains ofgold of local manu100 ft. long, and the inner heigh t, ex facture, which are as flexible as string,elusive oftheroof, is 43 ft . Vast mono and a golden bowl said to be worthlith e have been used as uprigh ts in the rs. There are also chains of

construction, some of th em over 40 ft . gold, 5-franc pieces, and others ofgold

h igh . The stones on theroof laid hori 5-rupee pieces.

zontally arealso vast . The stoneon the In the court round the central en

inside of the arch is 29 ft . 7 in. lon closure is the ao-called H a ll of 1000

4 ft . 5 in. broad, and about 8 ft . thie Pillars. (Fergusson counted 960,but

Th ere are two pilasters in thegateway, the number is now much reduced. )wi t h an inscription in Tamil characters. They are granitemonolith s 18 ft . h igh ,From the terrace at the topof the te with pediments sli h tly carved to th e

way is seen the vast outerwall w ich heigh t of 3 ft an they all have th e

encloses thegardens as well as thebuild plantain bracket at top. The pillars

ings of th is the largest temple in India. of the front row look ing N. represent

Th is outerenclosure, 2475 x 2880 ft men on rearing h orses spearing tigers ,contains a bazaar. W ithin th is is a the h orses

’

feet supported by thesh ields

second wall 20 ft. h igh enclosing the ofmen on foot besi e them. After th is

dwellings oftheBrahmans in theservice thegreat opurawh ich is on theN. mayof th e temple. The general des

'

is be visitedg. Th e total h eigh t is 152 ft .

marred by the fact that the buill

gihgs In the floor of the passage under th is

diminish in size and importance from gopura is a stone with a Kanarese in

t h e exteriorto the innermost enclosure ; scription. W ith the exception of the

and Fergusson says, If its principle pillars with supporters carved in the

of design could be reversed, it would be shape of h orsemen, there is noth ingone of the finest temples in the S. of that can be called interesting. The

India.

”There are two great puras gopuras are clumsily built , and

,not

on t h e E. side, two smaller on t eW . , with standin th eir enormous bulk,

and three ofamedium heigh t on the S. shakewith e steps ofa few men. Mr.

A dvancing from the Trich inopoly side, Fergusson is of opinion that the build

t h e traveller [a sses under a small ing was commenced about 1700 A .D .

1

man dapam, and then throu h a go ura A Mela (religious fair) is h eld here

abou t 60 ft . h igh . The cei gs o the every winter.

gopuras are all painted, and the ceiling Temple of J ambuk eshwar.— In th e

o f t h is one represents the Varahah , or S. of India temples are often found in

B oar Incarnation, of Vishnu, as well irs. If there is one dedicated to

as o t h er Avataras with multitudes of ishun, therewill be one dedicated to

h um an beings adoring them. The Sh iva. So here, at about I} m. from

co lours arewell preserved. After this a the Great Temple of Seringham, is a

secon d mandapam is passed under and smaller one sacred to Jambukeshwar,

a sec ond and th ird 8°P11m° H ard by 1 See h is Ind. Archit , where there is an

is an other enclosmg wall, wh ich sur illustration and description of the temples.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

Indi a4 10 Room 3 2. MADRAS so me saver: moon s

are heavy breakers about 1 m. or so

out, where there is a reefofrocks.

At about 300yds. N. ofthe temme isa fishing e called Karmiguriamman Kovil, w ere are the ruins of a

brick buil said to have been a

French churc S. of the temple, atthe distance of 200 ds . , is a ruined

nitebuilding, call Chetti’

sTem le.

a ving the shore temple, the trave er

will find 600 yds. due W . a lainmandapam of Vishnu. 12 yds. ofit is a fine tank

,with steps down

to the water all round. Th ere is a

small manda am in the centre of thetank , called irab

'

iMandapam (waterpavilion). Near the tank are manytrees, and quite a village of Brahmanhouses. Pass

'

theseyou come to the

great sculp rock called Arjuna

’

s

enance, and as the morning sun

will now be gettin ve hot, rt willbe well to turn to t e .W . , where a

sheltered monolith ic temple will befound, open to the front , called Varahaewam'i Mandapam, or My LordBoar

’

s Temple, from the representation of Vishnu in the boar incarnationwith the head of a boar. H ere it willbe well to breakfast , sheltered from thesun, and rest till towards evening.

There are retiring places among therocks where one can bathe withoutbeing seen, but it will be well to takea few pen

-dam, or tent -screens, for

greater privacy and comfort . Thabsence of insects, especially flies, isvery remarkable here in the coldweather. The Varahaswami Mandapam is 2m. S. of Balipitham, wherethe traveller leaves the canal. Thefacade of the mandapam is supportedby two pillars and two

atpilasters, the

bases of which are carv to representthe Simha, or Southern Lion, a myth ical animal, not at all like a real lion.

They are sedent , and their tails are

Resisted, in its strength , the surfand aThat on th eir deep foundations beat in va n.

’

The same authority makes th is temple about80 ft. sq. in the base, and about twice that inheigh t , and adds Notwithstanding its smalldimensions it is, with the single except ion ofth e temple at Tan ore, the finest andmost important vimanah have seen, or know of inthe s. of India.

’

twisted in a uliar manner, like th eloop of a. n the centre of the wall ,0 posits to thefacade, is a small alcove,w ich is the sanctum, but there is n oidol in it . On either side is a dvin altoorelievo. In the sidewall to e

N. is a representation of th e Varah aincarnation, fair

'

y well done, but nufinished. Th e central figure is Vishnuwith a huge boar

’

s head. H e has hisrigh t leg bent up, ant

irest ing on a

fi

gure issumg

°

a ent y from waves.

T e Shesh N ,

pgr

six-headed serpent,overcano ies

(

the figure, which has theface ofa declueyouth , wh ose handsare joined in prayer. In front of h imare two male figures, th e nearest of

which is praying with joined hands toVishnu. Vishnu eu ports on h is rig

i

th igh h is wife ehmi. H er t

a

gle broker

;iofl

‘

. Neal

r

l

‘ h i

g}is a

dwor

s in t e s an two

tallJ mg

es’ggr

: ofwh om h olds a waterpot for ablutions The time is supposed to be that when V ishnu slew

the'

ant H iranyakah ,“golden eye,

"

who ad carried off the earth into the

infinite abyss. Vishnu, with th e headof a boar, ursued and slew h im, and

brough t bac the earth.

its side wall, to theS. , is

representation oftheVamaMJtA catara,or dwarf incarnation, in alto-relievo.V ishnu, dilated to an immense size,

places one foot on the earth , and liftsanother to the sky. Thegod has t

arms, with which he holds a sw a

quoit , a sh ield, a bow, and a lotus,andwith a sixth he points. The other

two are indistinct . W orship or

attendants are at h is feet, ange

l-

r

a

therres a pear in the skies. One to the

has t e head ofa dog. The legendis that when Bali was tyranmsmgoverthe earth , V ishnu approach ed h im in

the shape of a dwarf, and ask ed for so

much earth as he could plant his feetupon. Bali granted this modest te

quest , whereupon Vishnu dilated to

immense pro rtions and planted on

foot on one on the sky, and

with a th ird thrust Bali down to

hell. The capitals of the pillars in

the facade are very ele nt . In the

wall in which is the cove are two

compartments ; in the one to the

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

426

years the po ulation has very greatlyincreased. t is interestin chiefly on

account of its pagodas an a colossal

figure ofGaudama.

The Shwemawdaw Pagoda, said tocontain two hairs ofBuddha, is a sh rine

of great sanctity. Successive kings

of Burma and Pegu lavished th eir

treasures on it in repairing and enlarging it . W hen originally built it was

only 75 ft . h igh , but as it now stands

it is about 288 ft . h igh and about 1350

ft . in circumference at th e base. It

was last repaired by Bodawpaya about

100 years ago, and has recently been

regilt under the supervision of the

local elders.

The enormous recumbent figure of

Gaudama, known as the Shwetha

yaung is close to the railway station

and deserves a visit. It is 181 ft . long,and 46 ft . h igh at the sh oulder. Its

h istory is unknown. Pegu was taken

by Alom ra in 1757 A .D . , and ut terlydestroy for a generation. In the

meanwh ile all remembrance of th is

gigantic image was lost . The place on

wh ich it was situated h ad becomedense

jungle, and the image itself turned intowhat appeared to be a jungle-coveredh illock . In 1881 the railway was

being constructed, and laterite was

required for the permanent way. A

local contractor, in search ing for

laterite, came across a quantity in the

jungle, and on clearing the place uh

covered the imagewh ich has ever sincebeen an object ofveneration. The red

brick is now being gradually encased

in white plaster by the pious. Not farfrom th is is theKyaikpun p oda with

four colossal figures of Bud ha, each

about 90 ft . h igh , seated back to back .

There are many other objects of anti

quarian interest in Pegu, such as the

Kal yaniaima orancient H all ofOrdina

tion,in the Zainganaing quarter to

th e west of Pegu, founded by KingDamacheti in 1476 A .D . ,

and the

Shweg'

uzale pagoda with its 64 imagesof Buddha apparently constructed bySiamese arch itects . Near theKalyanisima are 10 large stones covered withPali and Talaing inscriptions. A good

panoramic view ofPegu and its suburbs18 obtained from the Shweaunggyo

BURMA India

pagoda wh ich is sit uated at th e southeast corner of the city walls . A t about700 yards from the southern face is

vati, the encampment ofAl omwhen he beleaguered the town in l 57A .D. W ith in the walls are visible thesites of th e palaces of the k ings of

H anthawaddy. Traces of a doublewall and moat may also be seen.

Rejoining th e train at about 9 o’

clock

th e traveller will pass th rough the

Shwegyi'

n and Toungoo districts of

Lower Burma during the nigh t , andwill in the early morning cross the old

British frontier into the Upper Burmadistrict ofPyinmana . H e will obtain

chow ham at Pyinmana , a town of

inhabitants, and breakfast at

Yameth in, the headquarters of thedistrict of that name. Between

Pyinmana and Yameth in, and thenceon to Kyaukse, h e wil l see to the E.

th e range of hills wh ich divides Burmafrom the Shan States, including (to theS.E. of Yameth in) th e triple peak of

the Byingye range wh ere it is

proposed to form a sanitarium. TheKyaukse district is the most fertilein Upper Burma, an ingenious systemof irrigation work s enabling the

cultivator to obtain three or fouronofrice annually from th e same groH ere the hills approach much nearer

to the railway, and Kyaukse itself is

picturesquely situated. Th e train nowcrosses a stream,

and passing t hrough

Amarapum , a former capital of

Burma,reaches Mandalay at about

four o’

clock .

386 m. MANDALAE t sta.. Thetraveller will find that he can Spend

several daysverypleasantlyatMandalay.

The city contains about inhabi

tants, mostly Burmese, and was from1860 up till 1885 th e capital of the

Burmese kin dom and th e residence of

the King. he owth of t h e city has

been more rapi even th an th at of

Rangoon, but it was in grea t part due

to temporary causes, now removed, and

in future it may be expected t h at the

population ofMandalay will dwindlerather than increase. The city proper

was in Burmese times within th ewalled

RO UTE 1 .

enclosure, wh ich is now used as a

Cantonment and calledFort a erz’

n.

A traveller bent on studying the

capital sh ould commence by ascendingMandalay hill, an isolated moundrising abruptly from the flat plain on

wh ich the city is built. From th is pointof vantage he can see spread out like a

great map the town of inh abi

tants, th e fort with th e palace in th e

centre, the temples and monumentsworth y ofa royal city, and the systemof irrigation built by King Mindou,with its great artificial lake and

numerous canals, wh ich look like silverth reads as they carry the water over a

vast area of country easily discernible

in th e clear and brilliant ligh t . At

the summit of the h ill was formerly a

wooden temple containing a h uge

standing figurepointing with h is finger

at thepalacebeneath . Both templeandfigure were recently destroyed by fire.

Port Duflerin wil l next claim atten

tion. Th is reat square fort , built to

guard th e pa ace, with sides I} m. long,is enclosed by walls of red brick 26 ft .

h igh , mach icolated at the top to serve

th e purpose of looph oles. They are

back ed by a mound of earth , so that

defenders can look over them. On

each of the four sides stand, at equal

distances, 13 peculiar and elegant

watch -towers of Burman design, built

of teak and freely ornamented with

go ld. One of these, enclosed and en

larged, forms the nucleus of Govemment H ouse, the residence of the

Ch iefC ommissionerwh en atMandalay.

Outside the walls, and surrounding the

fort,is a broadMoat full of water,

100 yds. wide. It is crossed by fi ve

wooden bridges, one in the middle of

ach side,and an extra one on the W .

face w hich was formerly reserved for

funeral rocessions. It abounds with

lish ,an at certain seasons of the year

large patches of the surface of the

water are covered with the broad

ircular leaves and beautiful pink and

wh ite flowers of th e lotus plants, wh ich

have their roots at the bottom. On

:h is moat, in the King’

s time, wereseveral state barges, gilt from stem to

item ,some of th em propelled by as

uany as sixty rowers.

RANGO ON TO MANDALAY

There are 12 gates through the fortwall , th ree on each side e ually spaced.

In front ofeach ate stan s thewoodenimage of a guar ian nut, and a massiveteak post bearing the name and sign of

the gate. It is under or near these

posts that thebodies ofthe unfortunate

v1ctims rest, who are said to have been

buried alive, in order that their spiritsmigh t watch over the gates.

Exactly in the centre of the fort

stands th e royal PalaceorNandaw. A

plan showing the disposition of the

palace buildings at the time of the

annexation will be found in Dr.

Oertel’

s Notes on a Tour in Burma

(Govt . Press, Rangoon,from

which work th e present descri tion of

the palace has been condense The

palace was formerly a square fortified

enclosure, defendedby an outerpalisade

of teak posts 20 ft . h igh and an inner

brick wall , with an open esplanade of

about 60 ft. width between them.

Th is walled square was cut up into

numerous courts surrounded by h i h

walls, and in the very centre, to ma 9

it as secure as possible, was an inner

enclosure containing the palace. To

the N. and S. of the inner palace

enclosure are two walled-in gardens,containing royal pavilions, and laid

out with canals, artifi cial lakes,and

grottoes. The outer stockade and all

thebrick walls havenow been removed,as also many of the minor structuresthe chief alace buildings are, however,still stan ing.

Four strongly narded gates led

through the outer efences. The large

gates were only opened for the Kingall other people had to squeeze through

the red postern at the side, which

obliged them to bow lowly as theydrew near the royal precincts. Enter

ing the eastern gate, wh ich is still

standing, one crossed a wide enclosure

which contained a number ofsubsidiarybuildings, such as th earmoury, printingpress, mint , quarters for servants and

guard, the royal monastery, KingMindon’

s mausoleum,and the h ouses

of a few of the h ighest offi cials. Be

yond th is was anotherspacious court in

front of the palace, at the northern end

ofwhich races and sports used to take

BURMA

place before the King. In the centre

of th is court stands the great hall of

audience, with the lion throne, pro.

jecting out boldly from the face of the

palace, with which it is connected at

the back . The private part of the

palace is behind th is, on an elevated

oblong platform in an inner enclosure,wh ich was entered through two jealously

-

guarded gates on each side ofthe

hall of audience. At the western end

of the palace platform is a private

audience h all, with the lily throne,where ladies were received, andbetween

the two h alls ofaudience are numerouswooden pavilions, formerly occupied bythe venous queens and princesses .

Over the lion throne rises the h igh

seven-storied gilded s ire or shwepya

that, the external em lem of royalty.

The Burmans used to call this spire th e

Centre oftheUniverse, arguingwithtrue national arrogance that it 18 the

centre ofMandalay, which is the centreof Burma, and hence of the world.

In the S. garden is a small pavilion,used as a summer house b KingThebaw, on the verandah 0 wh ich

he surrendered h imself to General

Prendergast and Colonel Sladen on

November 29 , 1885 . A brass tabletrecords the fact . The rich ly-carved

Pongyi Kyaung to the E. of thepalace,where King Thebaw passed the period

of priesth ood, is worthy of notice. It

is now used as a Ch apel . H ard by isKingMindon’

s mausoleum,a brick and

plaster structure, consisting ofa square

chamber surmounted by a seven-storied

spire. MindouMinwas buried h ere in1878. The palace buildings were for a

time used for barrack s and offi ces, but

they were found unhealthy, and the

troolis have been removed to the new

barracks outside. The great hall of

audience is still used by the militaryas a church

,wh ile th e rivets audience

hall and surrounding uildings afford

accommodation to the Upper BurmaC lub.

PAGODAS AND MONASTERIES.

The wh ole neighbourhood of Mandalay, Amarapura, andAva is rich withsplendid fanes, of wh ich it would bemlpossible to giveany detailed account

with in the limits ofth ese pages. Someof the finestmonasteries, including th eA tnmasht

,or“incomparable mouss

tery, h ave been burnt down w ithin the

past few years but the 4 5 0 pagodas

and the GlassMonastery hard by, andnot far from the base ofMandalay hill,remain, and sh ould be visited, as also

the Queen’

s GoldenMonastery in B.

Road and the Art akan Pagoda

The460Pagodas is a very remarkaliework . King Th ebaw

’

s uncle, anxious

that theholy books ofBuddhism should

berecorded in an enduring form,called

together themost learned ofth e prieststo transcribe the purest version of the

commandments ; this be caused to be

engraved on 450 large stones of the

same pattern. These stones were set

up in an enclosed square, and over

each was erected a small domed building to reserve it from t h e weather.

The enc osure is about 5 m . square,surrounded by a h igh wall with

ornamental gates in the centre stands

a temple of the usual form.

The GlassMonastery, so ca lledfromthe profusion of inlaid glass work

with wh ich th e interior and exterior

are decorated, is close by, and in the

neighbourh ood also is th e monasteryof the Thathanabaing, or Buddhist

Archbish o to whom the travellermaybe dispose to pay the compliment ofa

visit . The Queen’

s GoldenMonasteryin B . Road is now robably t h e hand

somest building of t e k ind in Burma.

It is built of teak in th e ordinaryform, but is profusely decorated with

elaborate carving, and is h eavily gilt

with in and without . Th e traveller

should ask rmission from one ofthe

yellow-robe fraternity, of w h om hewill be sure to find some in t h e court

yard, to inspect the interior of this

monastery. H is next visit may be to

theMaha Myat Mani, or“An-

akar!

Pagoda.

”

The Mah a Myat Munioda is rendered especial ly sacred

y the great sitting image of Gaudamathers preserved, and is on th is account

regarded by Upper Burmans as not

inferior in sanctity to the Sh wedagon

itself. The huge brass image, 12 ft. inheigh t , was brough t over th e h ills fromAkyab in 1784. The image was origilr

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

448

50m. Pascal 's. (R.H . and still con

tinning to ascend, reaches at

65 m. Lun beautifullysituated.

N Ears themh

dmndsagam.

’

ot in can ex t e u

of the drive betvgveen this place andty

78m. Bibile a good startingint for excursions into the wild and

utiful country to the E. and S.

W e are now in the Veddah country,and eitherhere or at thenext followingRest-H ouses,88 m. Ekiriyankum or

100 m. Pallegama, the traveller

is likely to meet will! some of

'

l

i‘lilese

sm r 1mens o umani e

amfl ms

ifi t of the Yakkosfthc abor}:(

i

iginal inhabitants of Ceylon, and are

ivided into two classes, the Rock andthe Village Veddah s. The RockVeddahs are absolute savages, who

remainl

concealec

t

l)

in t

lllw forests, and

are rare seen a uro n e e

indeed wnow {exist The

: VillageVeddah s, th ough Often indulging theirmigratory instincts , live in collections

ofmud and bark huts, in the viciniflyofwh ich the es on some rude ctivation. Their

r

zkill in handling thebow and arrow, of wh ich the still

habitually make use, is remarks ls.

114 m. Maha Oya120m. About

5 miles beyond Kumburuwella is the

gasat tank ofRugam, restoredby SirH .

ard, and now irrigating a large tractofcountry.

130m. Kanltiva (R H )136m. Chenk aladi or Eraoor (R.H . )

We havenow entered a country almostwholly inhabited by Tamils andMoors, ” as the Cingalese Moh ammedans are called. Th e familiarda Obs is no longer seen in the

vill s, and its place is taken b the

B in 11 pagoda or the mosque. romRugam onwards the country is high lycultivated and po ulous. After cross

ing the bridge at racor, the road turnssharply at ngh t angles S.E. to

146m. Batticaloa (R H . thecapitalof theEastern Province. Batticaloa issituated on an island in a remarkablesalt-water lake, wh ich communicateswith the sea ulyby one longandnarrowch annel

, but wh ich extends for over

CEYLON

30m. in length by from 5 to 2 m. in

breadth , and is separated from the sea

by a broad sandy belt now rich with

cocoa-nut groves, and swarming withTamil andMoorish villages from one

end to the other. The approach to

the town by a causeway across the

lake is ictur us. The walls of the

small 0 d Dutc fort, now converted

into a prison, are well preserved.

Batticaloa is famous as th e abode cl

th at singular natural curiosity the“singingfi sh . On calmnigh ts , especi

ally about the time of the full moonmusical sounds are to be heard prm ed

ing from the bottom of th e lagoon.

They resemble th ose wh ich are

duced by rubbing th e rim of a gvessel w1th a wet finger. Th e writer

has never heardmore than tw o distinct

musical notes, one much h igh er thanthe oth er, but credible witnesses , such

as Sir E. Tennent , assert th at theyhave heard a multitude of sounds,each clear and distinct in itself, the

sweetest treble mingling with th e lowest bass. The natives at tribute the

roduction of the sounds to th e shell

sh , Cerithiwmpaluslre. Th is may be

doubtful , but it is unquestionable that

they come from the bot tom of the

lagoon, and may be distinct l heard

rising to the surface on all si es ofa

boat floating on the lake. If a pole

be inserted in the water, and its upend applied to the ear, much lou er

and stronger sounds are h eard than

with out such aid.

ROUTE 3

COLOMBO TO RATNAPURA AND

BADULLA

(Coach daily to Ratnapura ; thence specialconveyance.)

NO excursion could sh ow more of

th e characteristic features of Cingalese

scenery and Cingalese life th an this.

It is one strongly recommended to

th ose having time to perform it . The

return journey from Badulla sh ould be

taken by the line described in Rte. 2,and can be performed in a day and ahalf. The journey to Badulla would

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

456

[Iftime{v

e

ermita an interestingexcursion may made to the rock -fortress

of Sigiri, to wh ich the

garricide King

Kasyapa retired in the 5t century after

obtaining the throne ofCeylon by the

murderofh is father, DhatuSena. Th is

extraordinary natural stronghold, about15 m. N.E. from Dambool, is situatedin the heart of t he great central forest ,above wh ich it rises abrupt ly

, like the

Bass Rock out ofthesea. T re journeyis bes t performed on horseback , as the

track after leaving the TrincomaleeRoad is rough . O therwise it isnecessary to take a bullock -cart , andthe slowness of its pro neces sitates

a very earl start. ere are but few

traces of t 0 hand of man remainingupon the rock , except some gallerieson the N.W . side and some frescoesh igh up in a cavity near its summitaccessible only with the aid of scalingladders. The palace, the site Ofwhichis just traceable on theN.W . side, and

the rock itself, are supposed to havebeen surrounded by a

still exists on the S.W . side.]

3 111. after leaving Dambool theMirisgoni Oya is crossed by a very highbridge. Immediate] after ing it

the road divides. he r straigh ton leads N.E. to Trincomalee (seeRoute the branch turning to the

left , N. , is that for Anuradhapura and

J aifna, and passes over an undulatingpark like country and past manynewly restored irrigation works to

58 m. Kekerawa good.

[FromKekerawaanexpedition shouldbe made, 8 m. by good carriage

-road,to the Great Tank of KALAWEWA . ItTh is mag nificent sheet of water was

originally formed by Kin Dhatu

Sena about 400 A . D. ,who bui t a bund

6m. long, 60ft . high , and 20 ft. broadon the top. This brmd retains the

waters of two rivers, and forms a lakewh ich even now, when the spill onlyreaches a heigh t of 25 ft has a contourOf nearl 40 m. A great canal fromone Of t e sluices of this tank carrieswater to Anuradhapura, adistanceof52m. , and supplies over 100 vill e tank sin its course. A fewmiles of t e canala t the end nearest Anuradhapura were

CEYLON

70 m. Tirapane 4 m.

farther there is a division in th e road.

Thebranch leadingdueN. is th estrai t

road to Jaifna through Mih inthat to the N.W . proceeds in nearlya straigh t line to

84 m. Mom m as (B. IL)good. The traveller who contemplatesa there h examination of th e ruinsis advise to call on the Government

Avge

l

ant at the Cutcherry, from w h om heobtain all necessary information

and assistance. Anuradha ura becamethe capital of Ceylon in a 5th cent.

B .C . , and attained its h igh est magnificence about the commencement of

the Christian era. It suffered muchduring theearlierTamil invasions, andwas finally deserted as a royal res idence769 A .D. A small village h as a

l

wa

remained on the site, but it is eals

since the constitution Of the North

restoredby SirW illiam Gregory nearly20 years but the tank itself and

theremain or of the canal remained in

ruin, as they had been for man can

turies, till 1884, when the yloa

Government decided to restore th em.

The work was com leted at th e end of

1887 . The bun ow of the engineer

in charge commands a fine view over

the lake. The ancient spill, 260 it .

lon 200 ft. wide, and 40 ft. h igh, is

ati in perfect reservation th e tank

been estroyed, not by anyof the spill, but by an enormous

breach on one side ofit,— now coveredby the new spill wall, a fine structure

nearly 1000 ft. in length , which reflects

much credit on itsdesignerand builder,Mr. W .W righ tson, oft eCeylon Public

W orks Department. 2 m. W . of

Kalawewa rs the Animus Vihara, an

ancientmonasteryinawildand secludedsituation, where is an enormous rock

cut standing statue of Buddha, 40 ft.

h igh . The statue stands almost en

tirely free of the rock from wh ich it is

carved, and the righ t arm is raised

and free from the body of th e sta tue.

A t the foot of the bund are ruins of

the very ancient ci ofVigitipura ]The road from ekerawa passes for

themost part through monotonous anduninteresting forest to

45 8

in the outer circular road, into whichelaborately carved staircases descend.

But there is one object of interest inAnuradhapura which does not comeunder any of these heads— the sacred

Bo tree and its surroundings . Th is

tree, of wh ich only a cut now

remains, is probablythe 01 es t bistori

cal tree existing. t was planted 245

B. O ., and from that time to th is has

been watched over by a succession of

guardians never interrupted. It standson a sma ll terraced mound, and is surrounded by a goodly numberofpromising descendants .

'

l‘

he adjacent buildings are all modern, but the entrance

to the enclosure possesses a fine semicircular door-step or moon stone.

”

The large tanks of Nuwerawewa,Tissawewa, and Basawakularn, the two

lat ter of which are fi lled from Kalawewa , have restored to the neighbour

hood oi Anuradhapura much of itsformer fertility.

[8 m. E. of Anuradhapura is Mi' h ill crownedwith

a large dagoba, an literally coveredwith the remains of temples, monasteries , andhermitages. Ancient stairs Of

manyhundred steps lead to thesummit ,whence there is a very fine view over

the forest plain, from which the greatdagobas ofAnuradhapura stand up likethe pyramids or natural hil ls. Thecentre of at traction at Mihinta le isMahmdo’

s Bed, t he undoubted celloccupied by Mahindo, the apostle of

Buddh ism in Ceylon, and containingthe stone couch on which he lay. Itis diffi cult ofaccess, but the view fromit repays the exertion of reach ingit . ]

On leaving Anuradhapura, th e road

passes through uninteresting low jun leall the way to Elephant Pass. 0

stages are as follows

95 m. from Kandy (by direct roadthroughMihintale),Maddawachchk a,

E. H . , an insignificant village, but 1m

portant as the point ofjunction of fourmain reads.

[A roadhenceN.W . leads toMannaar( 147 m. passing the unfinished Giant

’

s

CEYLON

Tank and themagnificent masonry damwh ich was to divert the Amm

’

A ar to

fill it . Mannaar is a dreary spot corn

manded by an Old Dutch fort , and onlyremarkable for the number of the

A frican Baobabs wh ich grow freelythere, having probably been importedby Arabs in theMiddle Ages ]111 m. Vavuniya vilank ulam,

a

small town, the headquarters Of the

district, on the edgeofa newly restored

tank . FairR.H .

120m. Irampaikkul am E. H .

[Road branches off h ere to Mullaittiva on N.E. coast ]

132 m. Kanakarayank ulam E.H .

142 m. Panikk ank ulam R H .

154 m. Iranamadu R.H .

All these are small R. H s. , with a

certain amount of rough furniture, butwithout linen or any stock of provi

sions.

The scrubgets lowerand small er, and

the soil poorer and sandier, as we pur

sue the tedious straigh t road to

166 m. Elephant Pass. So namedbecause here the herds of elephants

were in the habit of coming from the

mainland through the sh allow water to

the peninsula of J atfna, wh ich is new

entered by a long causeway crossingthe arm Of the sea wh ieh all but divides

thedistrict ofJafl'

na from the remainderofCeylon.

The R.H . is the Old Dutch fort at

the edge of the water,— quaint and

picturesque.

174 m. Pallai W e are new

in a totally different region from that

between Anuradhupura and ElephantPass . The eninsula of J afl’na is the

home of a usy, noisy, and closelypacked epulation. Every acre is

cultiva and thegarden-cul ture is of

beautiful neatness. Th e fine road

passes through a succession of largevillages as it proceeds.

187 m. Chayakachch eri (a s )good, a large village surrounded byimmense groves of the pa lmyra palm,

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

noun : 9 .

lula , separating the inner from the)u ter h arbour. The latter is about 4

K

Y)111. in extent, with very dee water.

I‘

0 place is well laid out , ut thehouses are poor. Pop.

Th e town was one of the earliestset t lements of the Malabar race in

C eylon. They built a great temNe onth e spot where Fort Frederick now

stands. The building was destroyedb th e Portuguese when they took the

p ace in 1622, and the materials wereemployed to build the fort ; but thesite is still held in great veneration,

and every week a Brahman riest , in

th e presence of a large crow throwsofferings into the sea from a ledgenear th e summit ofa huge precipice ofblack rock : a most picturesque scene.

Since th e expulsion of the Portuguese,European nations have held the placein the following order : Dutch , 1639

A .D . French , 1673 A .D . Dutch , 1674A .D French , 1782 A .D. ; Dutch , 1783A . D . English , 1795. It was taken byth e English fleet after a siege of three

week s, and was formally ceded to

Great Britain by th eTreaty ofAmiensin 1801.

'

l‘

rincomalee is the princi l navalstation of the Indian seas . e dock

yard is in the inner harbour, and thereis deepwaterclose to the best wharves.

A lar e amount has lately beennde on the improvement of its

ortifications.

ROUTE 9

A SPORTING Tomi.

Such a tour as the following,course, requires somedegree ofpreparation. Though there are Rest-H ouses

on the route indicated, they are but

few. They contain robably no furni

ture save a table an a bench or two,and are

quite destitute of an plies.

The trave ler or sportsman will)

have

to carry his own food, cook ingutensils,bedding, and tent ; and this will neces

sitate the employment of numerous

porters, whose ce must re late h is

own, though , i on horsebac he can

A SPORTING TOUR 461

get over the groundmore rapidly thanthey do. Ifexpense is not an object ,it would be well to et temporaryelters ofbamboo and eaf thatch put

up at those laces where there is no

Rest -H ouse, or the tent is but an indifferent protection against either fiercesun or heavy rain, and health mayseriously suffer in consequence. O f

course it is not supposed to be likelythat an sportsman would make the

whole 0 this tour, but it indicates a

line of country any part of wh ichwould make a good centre for sport .

The animals to be found are elephants,bears

,leo ards, deer, and in some

places wil buffaloes ; wild acocks

abound in the forests, and t e tanksandmarshes are full ofwildfowl ; theyalso swarm with crocodiles.

Startin from Badulla b camag'

e

the roadgto Bibile is desiribed in

Route 2.

H ere wheel conveyance must beabandoned, and the distance must becounted not by miles but in hours,the hour being calculated on the ordi

nary pace ofa loaded porter.

6 hrs.Nilgala A small villagewith a litt lepatch ofpaddy cultivation,situated most picturesquely on a riverat the entrance to a W ild and narrow

4 hrs. Dambegalla A

small village, in the vicinity of wh ichirrigation works have recently beenconstructed.

3 hrs. Meddegama In a

ver

{ pretty jungle country abounding

wit elephants.

6 hrs. Nakelo (R.H . ) There is a

picturesque Buddh ist temple on the

side of a mountain in the. neighbourhood.

8 hrs. But-tale (R.H . ) An oasis

of cultivation in the jungle, due to

the restoration of its ancient irrigation works. Ever

ywhere through the

forests the ruins o ancient systems of

irrigation and othervestiges of civilisation are to be found.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

468

Hairdressers Facile,under Bombay C lub .

House ent : E. Flatt er,H ummam t.

Libraries : A sia tic SocietyLibrary in the Town H all ;th e Sassoon Institute, Es

filanade, adjoining Watson

'

s

(strangers can join th e

lending library for a week ).Markets : Crawford, forfruit , vegetables , flowers ,

poultry , meat , etc .

Cloth , in Nat ive Quarter,Sh aikMemon St .Cotton

,Cotton Green,

C olaba.

C r, close to Mombadevi ank , Native Quarter.

Opium. there is no definite

market-place, but businessis transacted in th e streets

of the Native Quarter.

MedicalMen : Dr. SidneySmith ,Mazagon ; Dr Dimmock , Dr. Ch ilde, F. A . Foy.

Merchants: forWoodcarving, Inlaid work , Silks, and

Embroideries, Teller

}and

Cc . , Esplanade Boa (verygood), and also at the sh o

ps

in Kalbadevi Road and t e

adioining streets.

Mil liner, Dressmak er,etc . , Mis s Watson, Esplan~

ade Road ; Laidlaw andWh iteway, Esplanade ; Badham and Co.

Missions , etc. , see p. 10.

Newspapers : There are

t wo lea ing English papers

111 Bombay. the Times ofIndia and th e Bomba y Cazel le, bes ides a nnrnber of

native papers . Th e Advo

ca te of I ndra 18 an English

evening paper.

O culist : Dr. H erbert .

Opticians Lawrenceand

Ma r/o ; Ma rcks and Co.

h o t lrnrEsplanade Road .

Outfi t ters : Bmlham and

P ile, Limited ,ll

'

a lson and

Co . La idlaw and li’

h iteway ;Hoa r and Co.

— all in

Esplanade Road .

Ph otograph ers : F.Ahrle,

Esplanade Road Bourne

a nd Shepherd,Esplanade

Road : Taurines .Meadow St .Railways : Th ereare two

l ines out of B ombay(l ) The Great Indian

Peninsula Rly. (k nown as

the G. I . P. ) from Victorias ta . ,

for C alcut ta, J hbbul

pore, A llahabad , Benares ,C aw npore, Luck now , Agraand Delh i, Indore, Nagpurand Poona ,Madras , and th esouth . Express trains to

INDEX AND DIRECTORY

W aiting

Calcutta via J ubbulpore lnd1an Tours , a pamphlettake 46 h rs . , those via Nag (1s. containing full infer.

pur take 48 hrs. mation about tours , priceof

(2) Th e Bombay, Baroda , t ickets, etc . , wil l be foundand Central India Rl y. , very useful.for Ahmedabad, Kattywar, Tramways run from endRut lam, Ch itor (for Oodey to end of Bombay , and ex

pore), Ajmere, J eypore, tend from Colaba and theAgra , Delh i, Lah ore, and th e Fort to Grant Road , to Par.

nort h . Travellers stopping ell , and to th e Docks .

in or near the Fort , may W ineMerch ant s : Phipstart from Church Gate St . son and Co Treacher andsta. or from Colaba . Those Cc. , and Bolton and Cc.

—all

atMagibar H ill or

t

Byculla, in Esplanade Road .

rom rant Road 3 a.

Steamsh ip AgenciesBOB GEN!"320'

Peninsular it OrientalBORN“, 22, 23 , 19

4

Co. , 8 Rampart, Row .BO RPANI, D.E .

, 24 4 .

S

teamers e

fiery

P

vreek

8ago BO STAN 236 .

A en, sma ia, ort i B WR INGPETBrindisi. Malta, Gibraltar, (

See Kolar GoldFiglds .

Plymouth , and London ;BO TAD 153

and every fortnigh t to

Vsnice,Marseilles,Co lS

on1bo ,B lgAflMPUTB-A RIVER,

Madras , Calcut ta, traits 4

Sett lements, C h ina , J apan,BREWERY (R . ) (see h arm

and Austral ia.Tal) 253 .

British India S.N Co BR ITISH FRONTIER

Mack innon,Mack enzie and 35?

Co . , Green St . , forCalcutta, 3 3 05 03 , 107 .

and coast port s, Karach 1, DB in town.

Pers ian Gulf, Burma, and B OO I"at sta.

E. C oast ofA frica. BUDDH GAYA ,49 .

Ha ll Line , Edward Bates BULRAMPUR , 249 ,

and Co . Elph instoneC ircle.

Clan’

Line, Finlay, Muir B‘ggDELKUND PROM“,

and Co .

MessageriesMaritimes, 29 ggfiggfilfi fi

f’

) 5 1Esplanade Road.

Nav. Gen. Ital iana ,Florio , BK zzmr

gg.

34andRabatt ino UnitedCos. , F.

D.BC . Barbaro , Sassoon H ouse. “ma mm

el t }? (B arrack

A ustro Hungarian Lloyd’

s

S . N. Co H . von H ofl'

er, 50ALE

po

go

-

r

an 461

C h urch Gate St .

gUXAR (Bu ), 47W ilson Line of Steamers,

D‘R° nearFort . H owlFinlay

iMuir, and C

I?” CoLn

Cmercia Road. To ma c 1,Middlesbro '

or H ull everyCA CH AR

,2t h

fortnigh t . CALCUTTA , 52.

Anchor Line of Steamers, Hotels : Th e Grand H .

W . and A . Grah am and Co . , good, H . Continenta l , bothGrah am

’

s B uildings ; and in Ch owringh ee ;T. C ook and Son. Eastern Spence

’

s H .

Stores : A rmy and Navy, moderate, H . de Paris (BonApo llo Bandar, convenient , s ard

'

s), Dh urrumto lla.

well suppl ied (branch of the Boarding H ouses are

London establishment). numerous , and are often

Theatres : Th eGaiety and preferred to h ote ls , eses-

pecitheNmeltymearth eVictoria ally for a length ened staysta . at th e 8 . end of Esplan in Calcutta. Th e appmxi.adeMarket Road, and th e mate charges are 150 rs.

Native Theatre in Grant Rd. a month , or 5 rs. a day , forTourist Offi ce : Messrs. board and lodging (W ine not

T. Cook and Son, opposite included). In th e h eigh t ofEsplanade H . , are also the season, about C hristagents for rly . t ick ets and mas t ime

, ch arges someall k inds of informat ion in times run up to 8 rs. andconnect ion with excursions 10 rs . a day . Meals are

and tours (a g. to Elephants taken together as a tale.and Kanh ari). Cook

’

s but in some h ouses suits

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

470

Dalh ousie Sq. , J ohn Rica , 2

H ere St .

Railways : The E. I.R .

Sta . at H owrah , for B ombayvia J abalpur, Delh i, Agra,etc . TheEastern Bengal R .

S ta . at Sea ldah , for Darjeeling, Dacca, and places in

A ssam. Th ereare two l ines

to B ombay .

'

l‘

bet by J abal o

pur takes 46 h rs . ,and

t hat by Nagpur 48 h rs .

Th e is now direct common cat ion between Cal

cutta and Madras by th e

East Coast Railway .

Societ ies : CH A RITA BLE

A ND Reu ni ons — B es ides

the above-ment ioned Societ ies , t h e fol lowing have th eir

Indian h eadqnai ters in Cal

cut ta -'

1‘

heAdditional C lergySooty. TheMethodist Episcop al Mission ; The London

Miss ionary Sooty. The Wes

leyan Missions several

Special ZenanaMissions.

SCIENTIFIC , ETC . The

A s iatic Socicti Park Street ,founded by Sir W illiamJo nes The Microscopica lSoc. The Photograph ic Soc.

have rooms in the samebuildin Geology,Ethnolog y,Miner ogy, Natural H is

tory , A rchaeology, are well

i epresented in th e Ind ia n

MuseuminC h owringh eeRd

Steamsh ip Agencies

(General) :P. a O . S. N. Co. , Supt ,

E . Trelawny , 19 Strand .

Steamers every tortni l itforColombo , Aden, Iems i a,

Port Said Marseilles, Plymouth , andLondon ; alsoforB ombay , C h ina , J apan, Aus

tralia, etc . Special attentionis ca lle dto th esecond saloonaccommodation ofth is C ompany

’

s steamers , and th e improved arrangements for th ecomfort of passengers byth at class .

B ritish Ind ia 3 . N. Co. ,Mack innon, Mackenzie and

Co. , 16 Strand, for London,

Colombo, coast ports , Karach i, Persian Gulf, B urmaS trait s Sett lements, andAus tralia via Torres Straits .

CityLineofS.S., Gladstone,

l l’

yllie and Co. , C live St .

C lanLineSteamers,Finlay,Muir and Co., C live Street ,

2d class accommodationspec ia lly good .

Messageries Maritim e, 19S trand .

teamsh ip

INDEX AND DIRECTORY

S . N. Co D. Sassoon and Co. ,

C live St .

Anchor Line, Graham and

Co. , 9 C live St .

Agencies (Local) :RiverS. h as . Cc .

,Macneil land Co.

Steamers,Macneill and Cc . ,

plying between Calcut ta and

C haiidbally.

A siatic S. N. Co. ,Turner,Morrison and Co. , 6 Lyon

’

s

Range, excel lent , accommodat ion for l st class , 2d class ,and deck (natives) passenrs.

Anglo Indian CarryingCo. , Bal iner, Lawrie and Co.

(proprietors), pack ages , baggage, etc .

, to or from England.

Tallors : Ranken and CoRamsay, Wakefield and Co

Harry Clark W . H . Phelps

and Co H arman and Co. ;Badham Bros. , all in O ld

Court H ouse St .

Th eatres : The Corinth

ian, Dhurrumtolla ; The

Royal, C howringhee Road :The Opera H ouse, LindsaySt . Na tive Thea tres are

ch iefly in B eadon’

St .

CALICUT, 367 .

Hotel : Mr. P. Canaren’

s

on th e Beach . Good

Steamship Agents :Co.

em er , 110.

CAMPO LI , 319 .

summons ,see.

D.R . good.

CASHMBRB , 211 , 215 .

(See Srinagar).

CASTLE ROC K 301 .

canvas ? ru ns, 379 .

Dak Bul lock s on previo

not ice to Dep

. CommissionerofBangs oreDistrict .

AW'

NPORB , 260 (R . good).Hotels

dCivilsen

d,Agili

tary, goo : t he s ; m

prese IL ,Victoria Kell

ner’

s Refreshment Rooms.

C lub : Caw npore C . ,Mall .

Missions th e S .P.G.

(Mission H ouse, C h rist

Ch urch ) h ave charge of

C hrist C hurch Sch ool ,Geneia lgani School , and a

Girls'

Boarding School .

Th e La dies’

Associa tion

(S.P. h ave 6 sch ools and

work in th e zenanas .

Austro-Hungarian Lloyd’

s CHADIYANTALAWA , 462.

CHAGOTI, D.B . , 217C H AIBASA , 7s.

C H AKARDA RPUB , 7s.

CH AKRATA , D .B .,257 .

CH ALISGA ON, 71 .

CH AMAN, 236 .

CH AMBA, on , 199 .

C HAMPA , 77 .

CHAMPANIR , 109 , 110.

CH AMUNDI B ILL, 386.

CHANDA, D.E., line to

Warangal in progress , 74.

CH ANDAUSI 239 .

CRANBERNAGO RB , 5 1 ,Two Hotels m Fort.

CH ANDIL, 7s.

caannnnsaCH ANDO D , 109 .

CH ANDPUR ,27 7

am on s ts r, 335 , 362.

CH ANGAS SERA I , D .E . , 220.

CH ANRO YAPATNA , sea

CH APPA RIFT , 236 .

CH ATACK, D .E. , 277CH ATRAPUR , 353 .

CH ATTISGARH, 7 7 .

CH AVAKA CH CH ER I , E.H.

good , 458 .

CH AYA , 164.

CH ENKA LEDI, R.E. , 448.

C H EPAL , 257 .

CH ERAT, D.E.,213 .

CHERRA -PUNJ I, 27 7 .

D.B . commod ious , withservants .

Pony Tonga Service (eachseat, 80 rs . ) to Sh illong ; 48h rs. notice to manager at

Sh illong.

CH ICACO LE, 353

OHIDAMBARAM, 396.

D.E. I} m. from rly . sin.

CH ILAW , R .H . good , 454.

CH ILIANWALA ,209 .

CH ILKA LAKE, 35 3

C H INCH WAD,324 .

CH INDWIN ,439 .

onmow ru'r(R .) D .B .good,

392.

CH INSURAH , 64 .

OHITOR ,82.

D.B . 1 m. from rl y . sta. ,belonging to O odeypore

Raja, good.

For an order to see the

fort , and for th e use of an

eleph ant , a week’

s notice

should be given to the

Resident at O odeypore.

CH ITTAGONG, 277

CH ITTAPUR ,346

H ORAL, 80°

H OTA-NAGPUR , 7 8 .

Missions H eadquarters

of.

Trinity College Debi“

INDEX AND DIRECTO RY 4 7 1

o n owmoox, 231.

C L IFTON,233.

C O C ANADA , 352.

c o om , 369.H otel : Family H D.B .

fair.

C O IMBATORE, D.B . , 337 .

C O LOMBO , 441 .

HzH Otels Grand Orienta l

H (usual ly known as th e

one of th e best , if

not the best , in th e E.

Galle Face quieter and

in apleasantersituationthant h e G.C .H . close to thesea,a lit t lemore than 1 m. fromt h e landing-place. Th ere

'

18

a. swimming bath attach ed

to t he h otel . Bristol Hotel,good .

Th eGrand Hotel atMountLavinia, 2 hrs . distant byrail from Colombo, ismuchfreguented by visitors . It

eligh tfull y situated on

a promontory overlook ingth e sea. H . B ristol.

Church es : (CA TH EDRAL)—S. Thomas, Matwal ; S .

Peter’

3, Th e Fort ; Christ

Church , TrinityChurch , Maranda S.

Michael 's, Polworth and

ot hers .

(R . 0. CA TH EDRAL)— Si.Lucia , and many oth ers .

(CH (may or SCOTLAND)St. Andrew

'

s, The Fort .

(Nowcmvmsmsr) Wesleyan, Pettah ; Baptist,C innamon Gardens. Dutch

C hurch, Wolfendsh l , and

ot hers .

C lubs : t he Colombo C . on

t h e Galle Face.

Golf C . with link s on th e

Galle Face.

Doctors : J . B . Spence ; A .

D .Murray ; .J Rookwood.

English Merch ant s,Booksellers, Stationers,sta. : H . W . Cave and Co.

a lso agents for H enry S .

ing and Co. , London) . D.

General Outfi tters : CarDABH EJ I, 231 .

DABHOI 108.

J ewell Moon stones

etc. , fl ’

: de Silva , Chat?DABO ’ 230‘

“3133 s P a St

DABOK , 34.

ans :

Th omas’

s 0011083 C °M°S'

BAGS?

2

n

‘

e

5

a

.

r Church .

GalleFace: C hris t Church

3. Lu a’s d l

fa w n,“ a“ seven

DAKOR ,110.

E. Grinstead Sisters (Mis DALHOUSIE, 199 .

sion House ,at Polwatte), Hotels : Strawberry Bankcharge of schools and H . (best), Old Dalhousie H .

anag'

e, and undertak e Bul l'

s Head H .

PrivateNursing 1nanypartof the island.

Steamship Agencies :P . is O . S. N. Co. , ofl

‘lce

op ite the G.O .H . Agent,F. ayley . Fortnigh tlymailservice to and fromLondon,

the Continent , and Sydney,stopping at al l th e ch ief

ports ; fortnigh tly servicealso to B ombay, Calcutta,Straits Sett lements, Ch ina,and J apan.

Orient Line. Agent, Wh ittal l and Co. Fortnigh tlymail service to and fromLondon and Sydney, stopping at al l ch iet ports.

B ritish India S. N. Go.

Agents, A lston, Scott , andC o . Fortnigh t ly service toand fromLondon week ly toCalcutta, Bombay, and

Madras.

ClanLine. Agents , A itken,

Spence, and C o.

AnchorLine. Agents, Del

megs , Reid, and Co.

COMILLA , 277

OOMPANYGANJ , 277 .

GONJ EVERAM,392.

No D.B . here, but goodwaiting room at sta. Con

jeveram can be visiwd fromC h ingleput orA rkonam.

COONOOR (R . 388 .

Hotels . D avidson’

3 H .

Gray'

s }! , H ill GroveH . (allgood)For tongas see Mettu

palaiyam.

COORLA , 27 .

CORANADU , 397 .

CUDDALORE, D.B . , 395 .

Steamship Agents :Co. , Parry and Co.

CUDDAPAH (R . D.B . , 334.

CUMBUM 358 .

CUT'I'

ACK , D.B 289 , 353

C lub : with in the Fortenclosure.

Between Pathank ot andDalh ousie it is most con

venient to sleep at t heD.B .

Dc h eira.

AL LAKE, 218 .

DAMAN ROAD , 105 .

D.B . beyond town,

mouth ofriver, good.

DAMBADENIYA , 444 .

DAMBEGULLA , R H 461 .

DAMBOOL, R .H . excellentvirtually an h otel , 455 .

DAMDIM,270

DAMODAR R IVER, 53 .

DAMO OKDEA, 270.

DARJ BELING, 271.

Hotels : Boscolo’

3 GrandH . and Woodlands H .

, both

good, with fi ne views ;Rock '

ville H . (Mrs . Monk )open all ) th e year, good ;Grand H . Dr um Druid, th eMal l ; Darjeeling H .

Boarding Houses : AdaVilla , Rose Bank

,Gresham

C lub . Dawjeelinn Auck

land Road .

DATAR PEAK, 130.

DATIA ,102.

DAULATABAD, 68.

Stat ion for Ellora ; see

El lora in index.

DEBARI , for Oodeypur, 84.

DEDUR, R .H . , 221 .

DEDURA OYA 454.

DEESA , D.B 119 .

DBHRA DUNorDOON,D.R . ,

256.

Hotel : Victoria H .

C lub : Dehra Doon C .

in contemplat ion.from H ardwar.

DELHI. 132.

Kellner'

s Refreshment andSleepirmRooms in the rly.

sta. ; ch ota-h azri served 1n

bedrooms ; other meals inthe refreshment roombelow ; good cuisine (writebeforehand.)Howls : Metropolitan H .

(Maiden Bros , managers ),near St . J ames

’

C hurch , the

best ,Grand H . , close to th e

rly . sta . (Mrs . Culverh ouse),well spok en of ; Lanrie

’

s H . ,

outside the city ; Ludlow

Cas tle H . near the Ridge.

Dealer in IndianCurios :

S. J . Telling, not far fromth e Cashmere Gate.

Merchants : Shawls, Embroideries ingold andsilverMoteeRam, Chandni ChauknearMuseum.

at

4 7 2

DEOGAON, D.B ., 65.

A good place to break thelong drive from Nandgaonto Roza for th eEllora caves .

The tongs service is not

good .

DEC LALL 2&_

DERA am KHAN, 224.

DEB-A ISMAIL KHAN, D.E. ,

213, 222.

DEWAL,217 .

DHANASI, 233 .

nm , so.

h u m mu s , D.E. , 290.

DH ARMPUR , 190.

D.E. good.

DHARWAR D.E. , 317 .

DH OLA (R . 153.

DH OLPUR (R.1, 92.

DH OND D.R ., 330.

DHONE, D.B . , 358.

Start ing point for Kurh ool , 33 111. distant . Carts ,bul lock s , and pony trans its

procurable.

DH ORAJ I, 164.

DHUBRI, D.E., 274.

Hotel : Dhubri H .

DIAMOND HARBOUR , 68.

DIBRUGARH , D .R 274.

DICKOYA , 446.

DIG orDBBG, 185 .

TheGopal B hawanPalaceis put at th e disposal ofstrangers (permission mustbe asked) . In it a paper ofrules is hung up for theirbenefi t .

DIKSAL, 330.

DIKWELLA , E.H . good, 451 ,453 .

DILWARRA TEMPLES, 120.

DIMBULA ,446.

DINAPUR , D.B 48.

Ksl lner’s Refreshmentand Retiring Rooms.

DINDIGAL 404.

DIRGI, 235 .

DOM, 293.

DOMEL, D.B . , good, 217.

DONDRA ; 452.

DONB IRA , D.B ., for Dalhousie, an ,

DONGAR om , D.R. , 330.

DONGARGARH 76.

INDEX AND DIRECTORY

DORNA KAL. 352DRAS ,

219 .

DUB CH I, 220.

DUDH SAUGAR. 301.

DULA l , D.E. , good, 217 .

mm BUM, D.E 62.

DUMMOW , 89 .

DUMPEP, D.B . , 277 .

DWARKA , 164.

ETAMPITIYA , E .H . 00}fortable, 447 .

260.

D.B . i m. from rly. sta.

EVEREST, MOUNT, 271.

P

FALSE POINT, 27 7 , 290.

SteamshipCc. , 0. M

FARDAPUR , D.E. , in a minous condition, 31 .

FATEHABAD 31 .

E

EASTERN NARA. CANAL,

225 .

EISHMAKAM, 213

EKIR IYANKUMBA RA , 443 .

KNELIGODA , 449 .

LAH ERA , 455 .

ELEPH ANT PASS, E.H . inO ld Dutch Fort , 458.

ELEPHANTA CAVES, 18.

ELLO RA CAVES, 71.The caves are now most

easily reachedfromDaulatabad sta. (Trains fromMunmar junc. twice da ily . )Write beforeh and to Nusseruangi, Aurangabad Fort ,ask ing h im to send a tongs

(15 rs .) to meet train.

Daulatabad sta. (no Refreshment Room) is 10 m.

from Ellora. A tomb atRoss (2 111. from th e caves ,

p. 69) h as been convertedinto s D.B . A week

’

s noticetoMess Secretary at Auran

gabad required for permission to occupy it .

ELLORE 352

ELPH INSTONE PO INT, 314.

ENGLISH BAZAR , startingplace forGaur, 267Accommodation Themagistrate

’

s permissionsh ould be obtained beforehand to occupy th eMaldahCircuit -h ouse, wh ich is a

comfortable building, beinfurnish ed and provided ivl tbedding, linen, crock ery,cook ing-utensils, and all reulsites , in charge of a resi

ent servant. A t least oneservant wh o could cook andtak e charge of baggageshould be sent on beforewith the coolies or coveredcart containing the baggage.

H orses and carriages cannotbe h ired. The travellermust b1i

'

ng h is provisionswith him.

ERAO OR , R .H ., 448.

RODE Juuc. (for Trich inopoly). 387.Excel ent sleeping ae

‘

commodation at the rly. sta

D.E. in th e o ld RecordO ffi ce (see plan).

FAZ ILKA , 166 .

FEGU , D.E. , 257 .

FENCH UGAN J , 276 .

PBBOI PUR 166 , 196.

D.R . near Dep. Commissioner

’

s Cutc h erry .

FEROZESH AH ,166, 196.

FO RT s'r. DAVID

, 396.

FRENCH RO CKS, 380.

FULLERS CAMP,

’

285 .

FULTA , 53 .

FUTTEH PO RE, D.E 256.

FYZABAD 248 .

D.B . close to rly. s ta.

Graham'

s H .

AJ odfwa, theH induism, 18 4 m. d is tant.

GADAG 815 , 853 .

D.E. i m. from rly . sin.

GADARWARA , R .H ., 33.

GADR ARRAN, 215 .

GAGANGA IR, 219

GALGE, 462.

CALI-B , 452.

Hotel Peninsular atOriental H . fairly comfort“bS‘

t'

hi Agents“cams pClanLine, C lark , SpenceandCo. British Ca .

and Anchor Line, DelmqeReid and Co,

GALTA, 128 .

CAMDER, 221.

GANDERBA’L, 219 .

GAMPO LA , 445 .

Hotel.GANJ AM, 353

GARH I , D.R., scorn-

217.GARH I H AB IBULLA , D.B..

221.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

4 7 4 11mm: AND DIRECTO RY

H YDERABAD (Cashmere),D.B . , 221.

HYDs

B’

BABAD (Deccan), (R .

“Hotel : Cosswpolitan H .

See Secunderabad.

Bank of Bengal .

HYDERABAD (Sind), 228.

D.B . good ln Cantonmentclose to t he i ennis Courtand Swimming BathMissions : C .M.S C hurchand Sch ools.

I.

IGATPURID.B . j m. from sta.

INDORB , D.R. , so.

INDRA HILL,362.

IRAMPA IKKULUM, R .H . ,

458.

I ll‘gsNAMADU , R .H. , good

IRRAKAMAM, 462.

’

ISAPUR H ILL-FO RT, 323 . KALPI, D.B . , 53 , 91 .

ISLAMABAD, 219. KALUNGA , 78 .

ITARSB

I, 34, 86. KALUTARA , R .H . excellent,, (R . and waiting J ULLUNDER 195 451.

rooms at rly sta Hotel : Cheltenhans H . , on

theMal l oppositethechurch Travellers w ill fi nd se

in Cantonment suburb commmlation at t l le 'Gon.

J . D.R. 5 minutes’

drive from Bungalow on t he B and.

J ABALPUR 35 .

rly st“Hotel : J ackson

’

s H . good . J UMMOO , 208, 221 .

This is the station for th e StateD.B .

Marble Rock s (p. Travel l ers fort una t e

J ACOBABAD, 234.

enough to be recommendedby th e Resident may be aomaustgndharam,commodatcd at the Resi

J AELA, E.H . , 454.

J AFFNA (J aj napatam), 459 .

J AGANNA‘I’H (see Part).

JAIPUR (see J eypore).J A ITPUR, 102. Hotels : Grand H . ,

excel

Dharmsala comfortable. lent ; Queen’

3 H . , 111mmence Villas H . small, but

J AKO H ILL, 191. le

grt

gfortable ; obl igins h nd

J ALAMB. 744 Club . onS.W . sideofi nh

JALARPET J unc. (forBangs Drapers, eta : R . Charter

lore), 376. and Co. Cargil l and Co. ;

D.R 270.Stw w md 00

J AMALPORE , 269 .

Kellner’s RefreshmentandBettringR-ooms at sta.

JAMGAL 362.

AN N, 219 .

44 1mm 414 h ighl va nes ,

JARAPANI 256 . m m 23 27J ATRAPUR, 273. KANIPANI 257 .J AUNPUR KANITIVA ,

D .B . close to PoliceLines. KANKARIY

J ELAPAH AR, 27 1.

J ETALSAR (R 155 , 164.

m ean KAN ” : 215 '

K.

Hotel : RustamFami ly H .KADARO LL 301

(best). The proprietorwil i, KAD1, 1 19 ,

if necessary, mak e ar e1

'

ments for eleph antsKADUGAN\ AWA ,

obtained), or for tongas,KAH OOTA . 221

bullock ek kas , or‘

pomcs KAIB A 111 ,

for the exgu

rsion to Amber: KA l T l’ 390.

Kaiser-i ind H .

Dealer In Silk s , IndianKALA RE SARAI , D.B . ,

212.

Curiositlea etc. Zurester KALA O YA . R E : 455

and Co., good showrooms.

School of Art,also good KALKA 190,

display , work to order. Lowrie'

s H . nextScot tishMission. door to P. 0 . and T

en

0.

J HANSI (open th rough out th eHots 8 : and L'umle

u

ygey’s H .Midland Railway H .“D B O ffi ce at P. 0 . (see

good . A ccommodation also Passengers can book to inih Bani of J hansl’s Palace. terlnediate sta tions betweenWrite beforehand to Dep. Kalka and S imla by ordinC omm. ary conveyances , but theClub : Mann Club. full fare, 8 ra. , will be

JH ARSUGUDA 77 charged. Notices to Pas

J HELUM(R ). 209 , 216.

D.B . in cantonment .

J ODHPUR , D.B . 121.

B . and W aifl ng BoomBullock -carts for h ire.

KALYAN HOT, 23 1.

KAMALAPUR , 354 .

D.E. See H amp i.

KAMPTI , D .E. , 76 .

KANAKARAYANKULA!E.H . , 458 .

vara-noes on application to KANBAL , D.R . , 219, 220.t hePrimeMinistero fKattywar. There

'

is a fi neGuestHouse for natives and

officials ofrank . D.B . close

to rly. sta . Two good

Serais outside theMajevdiand Verawal Gates respec

tively.

J UNGSHAH I 230.

Rooms at the rly. sta .

Camels or carriages forTatta sh ould be ordered

beforehand. Communicatewith the station master.

For insit ing Tat ta the bestlan for th e traveller is toire a carriageat J ungshah i

and drive (5 rs . ) 2 hrs. toTatta, tak ing lunch withh im.

J UTOGH , 190 19k ' l

4 7 6

397 .

KUMBURUWELLA , B .H

448.

KUKH UR , 7 1 .

KUPURTH ALLA , 196.

KURIGRAM, 273 .

D.B . in C ivil StationN.W .

of town.

KURNO OL (Madras), 358.

D.B . See Dhone.

KURNO O L ROAD STA . 358.

See Dh one.

KURSEONG D.B 27 1 .

Hotel : ClarendonH . (goo d)pleasant place for break ingjourney . Somepeople preierth is place to Darjeeling.

KURUNEGALA , an ,443 .

KUTALLAM, 403.

KUTB (Delh i), 147 .

Police Rest House in th etomb ofAdhamKhan. Comfortablequarters . A plica

t ion must be made efore

h and to the superintendent

orpolice at Delh i for

Iyer

mission to stop there. .B .

close to the great mosque.

KYANH NYAT, 430.

KYAUKMYAUNG, 430.

KYAUKPYU , 438 .

KYAUKSE,426.

L.

LA BANI, 210.

LAHORB 199 .

D.E. 2 m. from rly. sta.

H otels : Nedo a’

s H . , Char

ing Cross H . , th ese two are

th e best .

Boarding Houses : H illier

’

s, Caversham.

Club inC ivil Lines ,Pa11J abClub.

Missions C . St .J ohn

'

s Divinity Sch ool ;ZenanaMission, and Trinity

INDEX AND DIRECTORY

LANDOUE, 257 .

Hotel : Orienta l H .

LANSDO WNE, 233

LARKANA , D.E. , 226.

LASALGAON, 31.

LASCAPANA , 446.

LASH KAR, 96.

LASSENDRA , 110.

LEH , 219 , 220.

LEMASTO '

ITA , 450.

LENA OAVES, 29 .

LEAKSAR , 238, 254.

LIBONG,272.

LIMB DI,LIMKH EDA , no.

LINGAMPALLI , 346.

LODW ICK PO INT, 294.

LO C ARE H ILL-FORT, 32s.

LOLAR VALLEY, 213.

LONAULI 320.

Gymkhana H otel ifrom rly. sta.

Starting-place for drive tothe Caves at Karli.

LONDA 301.

LORALA I, 235 .

LUCKEESERA I, 50, 270.

LUCKNOW 239.

Hotels H ill'

s Imperial H .

Abbott Road Civil and

Military H Royal H

Wutzler’

s Prince ofWales

'

s H .

C lubs : United Service, int he C hatrManzil

,Pal e ;Mohammd Bagh C. , 68 11 n

ments .

Missions : C .M.S. sta . (atZah ur Bakh sh ), Ch urch of

Epiph any and Schools ;Methodist Episcopal ofU.S.A .

TheMuseum(Ajaib 6 11is closed at and on

Fridays .

Rly . Line to J aunpur in

progress.

LUDHIANA , 196.

D .E. at rly. sta.

LUNDI KOTAL,214.

LUNI, 121.

C hurch . American Presby LUNUGALA , an 448.terian Forman CollegeandC hurch .

LA H UGALAWEWA , 462.

LAKI 227 .

MADDAWACH CH IYA , R .H . ,

458 .

No D.B. but good rooms MABDUR 378.

at the rly. sta.

LAKKUNDI, 316.

LAKWAR , D .B 257 .

LALAMUSA 209, 224.

LALITPUR, D.R. , 89 .

LALPOO R,217 .

Visitors to Cauvery Fallscan aligh t at th eSonanhal liPlatform, onprevious noticeto station-master th ere.MADH AVAPUR, 164.

MADH UBAND, 50.

MADH UPUR (a ), D.R. , 50.

MADRA S , 336.

Hotels : H . Conmau a ,

best ; Buckingham H . , bot hin good posit ions c lose t o

Mount Road ; Copper [inseH . , on t h eB each , about 4111 .

S. oft he pier, and 3m. fromrly. sta Dent

’

s Gardens

ElphinstoneH . , B im ingllmH . , Salisbury H Victoria

H ., and Branch Elphinstone

H ., all in central posit ion (a

ornearMount R oad , not in

from theMadras C lub , andabout 2 m. from the pier.and 1 m. from rly. sta.

There are a lso severalhotels in B LA CK TO WNnear

the harbour, but t hey arenot recommende d.

Agents : A rb uthnot and

Co. (a cuteforH enryS.Einand o . , 65 Cornh ill), andB ins and Co. (agents forGrin lay and C o . , Parliament both undertakes]!business in connec t ionwith

travelling, bank ing, and

fi nancial arrangements for

travellers in India .

Bank s : Bank ofMadras.Popham

’

s B roadway ; AgmBank

,Esplanade ; Clau

tered Mercantile Bank 0!

Ind ia, London, and Chim

First Line, B ea ch ; Corn

Ltd. , Armenian S t . ; Naitonai Bank of Ind ia , Ltd ,

Armenian St .Book sellers : A ddisonami

Co. , H igginbotham and CoVest and Co. , a ll three 111Mount Road ; Ka lyanamaIyer, B lack Town.

Chemists : W . E. 5 11112

and Co. , Mount R oad andEsplanade ; and Madmand Co. ,Mount R oad.

Churches , see pp. 340-43.

Clubs : The MadrasCentral situat ion at l m.

from th e rly . s ta. onMountRoad. A considerab lenumberofresidentia l ch ambers.Th eMadras Cosmopolitan

Club also on Mount Road.

It is a mixed club o f Euro

peans and native gentlemen.

Th e A dyar C lub admitsladies as wel l as gent lemen :it is 3 m. S . ofMadras Club.and in its grounds the l ladras Boa t Club h as its shedRestaurant and am»

tioner : D'

A agel ia, MountRoad. (Excel lentOonveyanoos The dis

tances ia -Madras

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

INDEX AND menswear 47 9

C alcutta and B ombay via

Nagpur tak e 48 h rs.

NA INGH AT, D .B . ,257 .

NA INI 86.

Hotel.

NAULA , a n 452.

NAUSAR , 126.

NAVSARI, 105 .

NAWANAGAR , 155 .

NAYA BUNGALOW ,D.B . ,

O OMANPUR , 112

O OMEBKOTE. SeeUmarkote.O C H ER NATH , 219 .

OOTACAMUND , 399

Hotels : Sylk’

s H H . de

H otels : Douglas Dale H. 274 . ham H .

Reynolds’

E . , Grand H ate; NAYNAROO , 218. Bogar

glil

l

t

lgV

Hlt

lmse : Long

(formerly A lbion), an NEEMUCH 32.100 a 1 as.

H arris H . , on theMall N. of D .R. (553 C lub , with C lubs : Ootacamund C .

t h e lake ; Langham H . , S .

Ma ll ; H ill’s H . , near R C .

and Cluo ;Rustmn Family H .

C lub : Na ini Tal C. , near

S t . J oh n’

s Ch urch .

Sh op : Morrison’

s (European goods).From Kathgodam t o

Naini Tal Brewery by tongs.daily , 3 rs . 8 as. Dandies,

ponies, and coolies are al

ways available at Brewery,w h ere there are also R . ands leeping accommodation.

NA J IBABAD, 239.

NAKELO , R .H . , 451 .

NALANDE, amgood, 455.

NALH ATI, 254.

NA LWAR, 333 .

NAMBAPANE, E .H .,451.

NANDGAON, 31

D.E.

Rooms.

NANDIDRUG, 378.

Hotel, managed by pro

prietor of Cubbon H . , Ban

ga lore.

NANDYAL, 358.

NANGPOH , D.B . , 274.

NANJ ANGUD , 386.

NANU0 YA , 446.

Marmy’

s H .

cricket ground, etc . ,at

tach ed .

NEGAPATAM 400.

Steamsh ip AgentsCo. , week ly service

to coast ports.

NEGOMBO , E .H . excellent,426.

NEKI, 221.

NELLORE, 834.

D.R. good.

NEMAL AAR , 462.

NERAL 3 18.

Very good W aitingRoom, with Baths, etc . at

rly . sta.

NERBUDDA RIVER , 78.

NIGRITING, 274.

NILANA VALLEY 220.

NILGALA , E .H 460.

NILGIRI HILLS , 391.

(R ): and Wait ing NOW SHERA , 213, 220.

D .E. near Post O lflce.

NUSSEERA BAD, so, 125 .

D.R. 1 m. from rly. sta.

NOWARA ELIYA , 446.

H otels : KeenaH ouse, wel lspoken of and moderate ;Grand 11. ind ifferent , bet teraccommoda tion at the club.

BoNA RA INA , 125 .

mm“M”

NARA INGANJ , D.E. , 275 C lub a comfortableNA RAKAL , 369 bungalow.

Steamsh ip Agents 1 C lub.

Co., Aspitlwall and NYAU GU , 431 ,

NARAMMULA , 444.

0NAR I, 285 .

NARKANDA , 192.D.B . Six rooms , splendid

view of snowy range.

NA RMAH , 237 .

NASAK FRONTIER,285 .

NASIK ROAD, 28.D .E. and Waiting Rooms .

Ca ital Tongas on h ire.

amway to C ity 5 m.

distant .Mission : C.M.S. sta. (at

Sharanpore), see p. 29 .

H eadquart ers Roy alWestern India Golf Club

good link s.

NASINA 238.

NA 'I'l

‘O D.B . , 270.

OKA NDA, R .H . , 462.

OKH AMANDA L, 164.

O ODEYPORE, D.R. good, 85 .

Travellers of distinct ion,

who are recommended bythe Resident , wil l fi nd ac

commodat ion in t heMaharaua

’

s Guest H ouse. Thosewh o intend staying at theD.R. sh ould write beforehand to the Khansamah incharge, as the accommodation is limited. Carriagesare provided from t heMaharana’

s stelnles on

appl ication to th e Resident .Mission : U.F. Church ofScotland, medica l.

and Gymkha na. C.

Bank Bank ofMadras.

ou r D.E. , 91.

ononna , 102.

P.

PABB I,213 .

PACH BADRA , 121.

PACHMARI 35 .9

Military ConvalescentDepot .

PACH O RA , D.R ., 31.

PAGAN, 431.

PA ILGAM, 219

PAKO KKU,431 , 439.

PAK PATTAN, 222.

PA LABADDALA , good ac

commodat ionandwater,450.

408.

Missions : C .M.S.TrainingInstitution ; Sch ools ; SarahTuck er Institution ; TamilMission C hurch .

PALAMPODDARU , R .H460.

l ’ALANPUR D.R. , 119 .

PALE'I‘WA

, 433 .

PA LH ALLAN, 219 .

PALITANA , 153 .

D.E. Doolles can be ohtained either rivately or

th rough the o cers oi thePalitana Darbar. Charges,6 an. to 2 rs .

PALLA I , R .H . , 453 .

PALLEGAMA , 443 .

PALNI H ILLS, 404.

See Amnutymucyakanur.

PALUTUPANE, E.H 454.

PANA DURA , E.H . good andwell situated, 451.

PANCH GANNI , 293 .

PANBHARPUR , 331.PANDUAH , 269 .

PANHALA , 298.

PANIKKANKULAM, E.H . ,

459 .

PANIPUT, 187 .

D.B . tolerable.

PANKULAM, E .H . , 455 .

PAPANASHAM, 403.PARA H AT, 7s.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

po s es. Lonowood H . , Hard

ing'

s H . , Elysium H . , Rockc l ij H . , Imperial H . , Bon

sa rd H .

B ank s : Thereareseveral .C lubs : TheUnitedService,

25 0 yds. S. of CombermereB ridge, comfortable.

Simla and Kalka line.

T o ngas, 25 re. phaetons, 60rs

°

and invalidh ill-carriagesused for th is journey. Seatsb ook ed in ordinary conveyances 8 rs. , leavingat 9mm,

are always subject to th econdition that the weigh t

and bulk of local and parcelmails will admit of passengers (12 score of luggagefree). Passengers by tongs ,u sing th e front seat , sh ouldw ear close-fi tting spectaclesor veils , as a protectionagainst injury to their eyesfrom particles of stone or

metal. Th email tongs takesabout 8 hrs. , stopping halfw ay at Solon for tlflln.

S IND VALLEY, 219 .

SINGU , 430.

S INH GARH , 323 .

S IR -I-B OLAN, 237 .

am , 195.

smsa 166.

SITARAMPUR , 51.

SO B RAON, 166, 196.

SO LON, 190.

D .B . excel lent , and Khansumak '

s H .

SOMNATHPUR , 379 .

SONAMARG, 219 .

SONAR I, 88.

SONGAD, 168 .

Dharmsala comfortable.

Th is is the station for

Palitana. Write to Dep.

A ss . Pol . Agent at Songadfor a conveyance.

SONGIR , 109 .

SONUA , 78

BOO KNA , 270.

O PO R , 217.

RIMANGAL, 277

RINAGAR , D.B . , 217 .

A h otel (Nedou’

s) was tobe open in 1900, travel lerssh ould inquire about th is.

There are no h otels but afew quarters ”

orchambersowned by the state, wh ich

can with difliculty be procured by application to th e

DirectorofPublic Works

at a rental of Rs . 15 mma month according to the

number of rooms required.

Bungalowsarebeingerected

INDEX AND DIRECTORY 483

at Guphar, above th e D111Lake, about hour

’

s walkfrom Muns Bagh . for

rental to visitors at Rs . 50to 100 a month . Visitorsto Srina

glar ggenerally live

in their ouse boats, or intents pitched in the variouslovel groves wh ich sur

roun th e cityTh ebest camppin

gagrounds

are th e C henar h for

bachelors), th e un(sh i

Bagh , the Ram Munsh iBagh , and th e Nazib Bagh

(on the Dal Lake).Th e Native

th e Maharaja, Rai Sah ibBabu Amarnath , is verycourteous , and will giveanyinformat ion as to quarters,prices , coolies , etc .

Cocklmm ’

s Agency under

takes the h ire of boats ,tents, furniture, and al lcamp requisites, wh ichsh ould be ordered to beready on arrival . They alsoadvise visitors as to purchases , and give every k indof information.

English Chun k Serviceevery Sunday in the new

English Church in th eMunsh i Bagh .

Missions — Th e C . M. S.

has a station and doctorshere.

Official Rules forTravellers.

— Copies areobtainab lefromth eResident, and fromBabu Amarnath .

There are fairGunsmith sand Taok lemakers in th etown, also a Library— Travel lers are allowed to tak ebook s out . Turk ish Baths.

Residency Surgeon at

tends visitors during th eseason.

83 1 RANGAH , 408

UKKUR 228.

D. .B m. from t he sta.

in the European q ,uarters

the bes t 1n Sind.

SULTANPUR , 192.

D.R . bad.

SUMBAL, 217.

SUNAW IN, 217 .

SUFARA , 27.

UBAMUNGALAM(B . 387 .

Rly . sta. for th e town ofSalem,

and start ing intforYercaud and the S eva~

roy H ills.

SUB-AT, 105.

Agent of

Room at rly. sta. D.B . on

river-bank .

Inlaid Work and CarvedSandal Wood arespecialitiesof Surat.

SUTGATI, D.R 800.

SUTNA , 36.

D.B . about 1 m. from rly.

sta. (R .) Carts and poniesavailable. Changing sta.

for engines.

SYLH ET VALLEY. 4D.Bs.

275 .

SYNJ , 257 .

SYRIAM, 424.

T.

TADPATRI D.B . in thetown, 334.

TAIGANNAM,390.

TAKH I, 237.

TALAWAKELE, 446

TALBAH AT, D.B 39.

TAMLUK, 53 .

TANDUR 345

TANGALLA , 453 .

R.H . remarkably goodand pleasantly situatedclose to the sea.

TANGH I, 290.

TANGROT, D.B 221.

TANIN, 219.

TANJ ORESR . 398.

D.B . c ose to sta. , to theB . of th e Little Fort, wh ere

pony and bullock carts

are available.

TANNA , D.B 27 .

TANSA , D.E.,26.

TANSA WATER SUPPLY,26.

TAPTI BRIDGE, 34.

TARAGARH , 124.

TARN TARAN, D .B . , 199 .

Th ere is only a native

rest -h ouse h ere, but th ereis a D.B . (food must betaken) on theMaJ .ka lli H ills .

Telegraph Sta. h ere.

TAVOY, 437.

TEENDAR IA

TRESTA , D.B . , 273 .

TEESTA GHAT. 270.

TEH R I, 102.

TELLICHERRY, 366.

D.B . good. There is alsoan excellent l itt le Club .

Agents : Co.

TERIA GHAT, D B . , 2

B . , Some sleeping aecomTEZPORE, D.B 274.

modation and Waiting TH ABEIKKYIN 430.

484 m ax AND mREc'rour

TH ANNAMANDI,D.B . , 226. ULWAR. See A lwar.

TH ANESAR , D.B. , 139 . UMA RIA , 36.

TH AYETMO , 434. UMBALLA (R .) D.B . ,,

190. D .B . close to rly . sta.

TH E“, 192°

15‘

1 WAD!» 833TIGER B ILL, 271 .

annear th e.

lfly. sta .

B . and beds .

TIGYA ING, 430. Agents : R' A'

Orwn and WAH 0 12.

TINDIVANAM 393 . Co. undertake th e clearing WAI , 292.

D.B . good, with servants and forwarding ofgoods be D.B . , good .

and crockery . tween Umballa , Simla, Ka On side nea res tMahalaTINNEVELLY, D.B 407 .

33

81

3,:teg.

h'

iid Cesh war H ill .

Missions : S.F.O . sta. (at u 3 lWALAH 5

Nazareth ) ; C .M.S. Col lege.

00”Club1 5

TINNIPITIYAWEWA TANK UMERKOTE , 280.

454.

TIN PAHA R , 266.

R .H . small but good . ggnUB ’

387

TiRA PANE, R .H . , 456.

4 1 119°

11 3.0?e 334,UNKARJ I, D.B . , 79 .

Refreshment and sleeping URIA , D.E . ,120.

rooms at Rea l nta J unc

t ion Station. 1511

433 beforeURI , D-Eu good. 217 4

h and to station-master forconveyance.

TISSAW ,453 .

TONGLU ’272.

VADNAGAR ,113.

TO RWAH , 304.

VTO SH AM’ 165 .

ALABH IPUR ,155 .

VANKANER 165TRIOEINOPOLY 401 .

D.B . l m. fromw; sleep. VAVUNlYX-VILANKULAM,ing accommodation at rly .

R-H fair,453

sta . VEH AR-LAKE, 22.

011115 . TM‘W ‘”C '

VELLORE; 374.

TRIMA LGIRI, 343.

Taung“, 30,

VERAWAL,160.

Travellersmay find it conTRINOOMALEB , R-H 460'

venient to get permissionSM ND A801!“ from th e stat ion-master to

BJ -S-N' 00° retain th eir fi rst-class rly .

TRIVALUR , 343 . carriage at th e sta. , and to

TUGH

LJA‘K

éL

‘

BAD, 151. sleep in it at nigh t.

TUMK 362.

TUNDLA 260.

VERNAG’ 219 '

TUNI, 352. VIGITIPURA , 456.

TUTIOORIN. D.B . . 371, 407 VIJ AYANAGAR (Hampi), 353Hotel : Br

gu

gtudti:

H . D.B . at Kamalapur. SeeMission : s H am i.Steamship “on“ P YALA RIVER , R .H . , 462.

Cc . , Adamson,

VILLUPURAM(3 01 394 YAMETH IN. 426.

Mactaggart and Co.

”3 ° 1 “0” "l" 8“YANKIN

’

I‘

AUNG , 429 .

Bank : Bank OfMadras. VIRAMGAM, 165 . YELLANDU, 359W aiting Roomat rly . sta.

Dh armsala near Grea t YENA FALL8 1 294 °

U .Tank , well furnished. YENANGYAUNG, 434.

UDAYAGIRI CAVBS, 286.

VISH VAMITRI, 108 . YEMAUD (Sh evaroyUDA IPUR . See Oodeypore. v1SNAGAR , 113 .

337 ' 8 “Salem.

UDA POTANA . 462. VIZAGAPATAM, D.B . , 352.

UDVA DA , 105 . Missions q L. M. Soc . Z .

UJ J AIN, D.B . , 31 .R 0 Mission. ZAFARAB A D, 252

ULUBAR IA , 53 . VIZIANAGRAM, 352. Z IARAT,235

Printed by R . 81 R . C LARK, LmrrED, Edinburgh .

5

WALTAIR 35 2.

W ARANGAL , 85 2.

LinetoWarora inprogrei

WARDH A , D .R. , 7 4 .

W aiting and Remment Rooms at rly . sta

WARGAON, 323 .

WAR lYAPO LA , R .H . , 444.

WARO RA , D .B . , 7 4 .

Line to Waranga l in pn

gress .

WATH AR and WaitingRoom at rly. s ta . , 292.

Where an excel lent metcan be rovided for pas

sengers and forMahala}eshwar, if revious noticeh

given. engas can 11ordered by w riting to ill

Mail C ontractor.

WAZ IRAB AD D .B . ,201

WELIGAMA , E .H . , 452.

WELIMADU , 419 .

WELLINGTON, 389

W ILSON’

S BUNGALO W,

R .H . very good .

W IRAW ILA , R .H . , 453

WULAR LAKE, 217 .