carter marsh co

Carter Marsh Co. A N T I Q U E , V I N TA G E & P R E - O W N E D WATC H E S

S I N C E 1 9 4 7

STOCKBRIDGE ROAD

ST. PAUL'SHILL

ST

AT

ION

RO

AD

SU

SS

EX

ST

RE

ET

HIGH STREET

JEW

RY

ST

.

BR

OO

KS

T.

UNION

ST.

DURNGATE

EA

STG

ATE

ST.

COLEBROOK ST.

UP

PE

R

NORTH WALLS

ST. GEORGES ST.

CHESILS

TREE

TB

AR

END

RO

AD

M3

JUN

CTI

ON

10 (R

estr

icte

d)

CATHEDRAL

SO

UT

HG

AT

ES

T.

ST

.C

RO

SS

RO

AD

ST. JAMES LANE

ROAD

ROMSEY

LAN

E

WO

RTHY

ANDOVER RD.

WESSEXHOTEL

THELAYORLETOH

HOTELNIV ud

THE SQUARE

WALSTRUOC

TAERG& LLAHDNUORELBAT

THE SCREENAMENIC

ST. SWITHUN STREET

1

RAILWAYSTATION

RIVER PARKLEISURE CENTRE

FRIARSGATE

2

3

4 KINGALFRED'S

STATUE

18

5

From LONDON(via M3 Junction 9)

From

SO

UTH

AM

PTO

N

Via

M3

Junc

tion

10

LON

DO

NB

ASI

NG

STO

KE

15

11

12

COACHSTATION

WINCHESTERHOTEL

Winchester CityCouncil Offices

WINCHESTERCOLLEGE

69

13

14

Riv

er

I tc

he

n

Guildhall

10

7

8

YAWDAORB

19

St CatherinesPark & Ride591 spaces

BarfieldPark & Ride194 spaces

ORAMSARBOUR

17 17

17

Police Station

1 Parking

Vehicular access only at certain times

Access restricted to certain vehicles/special permit holdersPedestrian Street

Tourist information

On-street (pay and display) parking bays

Key

South Winchester Park & Ride

ACCESS TO SOUTH WINCHESTER PARK & RIDE VIA M3 JUNCTION 11

20

1 Upper Brook Street2 Cossack Lane3 Middle Brook Street4 Friarsgate5 Colebrook Street6 Jewry Street7 Chesil Multi-storey8 Chesil Street Surface9 Tower Street10 Durngate11 Worthy Lane12 Coach Park, Worthy Lane13 Gladstone Street14 St Peter’s, Gordon Rd15 Cattle Market, Worthy Lane16 �e Brooks, Friarsgate17 Park-&-ride East Winchester Barfield & St Catherines18 Guildhall Yard19 River Park Leisure Centre

16

WINCHESTER CAR PARKS

32A, THE SQUARE, SO23 9EX

How to find us and where to park:

Travelling to Winchester:

By RoadWinchester is easily accessed via the M3 from the east and the south coast, and the A34 from the north.

By RailLondon, Waterloo (1 hour) every 30 minutesHeathrow (1½ hours) every 30 minutes

By AirSouthampton airport is only 12 miles away - regular scheduled flights land here from the north of England, Scotland and Ireland, as well as most European countries.

For private aircraft contact Signature Flight Support on +44 (0) 238 061 6600.

2

Our business has been dealing in antique clocks and watches from 32a, The Square since 1947. Together we have unparalleled experience in the field, from the finest early English makers to modern wristwatch brands. This heritage has helped the company to handle some of the world’s most iconic horological pieces, and this continues today.Carter, Marsh & Co. holds the unique position of being able to assist our customers with a full restoration and conservation service for their clocks, watches and barometers. This service is provided by our own professionally trained clock, watch and cabinetmakers.

32A THE SQUARE

WINCHESTER

HAMPSHIRE

SO23 9EX

[email protected]

www.cartermarsh.com

+44 (0)1962 844443

FINE ANTIQUE, VINTAGE AND PRE-OWNED WATCHES

BOUGHT AND SOLD SINCE 1947

3

Index

Pocket watches

Thomas Tompion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Daniel Quare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Breguet et Fils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12Jump & Sons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Wristwatches

Breitling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16Eberhard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18IWC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21Jaeger-LeCoultre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Longines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Movado . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Omega . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38Frank Muller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54Patek Philippe & Co . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58Rolex / Tudor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70Roger W . Smith . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112Zenith . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115

A Short Glossary of Watch Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120

5

Thomas Tompion, London

An extremely rare silver pair cased verge alarm watch with Tompion’s secret numbering, no . 461 .Circa 1683 £65,000

Dimensions Case diameter 55mm.Case The outer silver case with pierced and

engraved hinged band of scrolling foliage, the lower section inhabited by birds with engraved border to the central cartouche. Engraved rural scene below the push button with punched crown and IB. The inner, with glazed hinged bezel and engraved border to pierced foliage, the band inhabited by birds and engraved with female portrait in period headwear above a basket of fruit. D shaped swivel pendant and polished centre exposing two winding holes, for going (engraved W) and alarm trains. Stamped ND conjoined beneath a crown (Nathaniel Delander). Bearing Tompions secret number of 4 dots against 6 and 1, beneath the alarm bell.

Dial Silver champlevé dial with Roman numerals and diamond half hour divisions with arrow head blued steel indicator to the matted rotating disc with floral centre, showing the time via the inner band marked by arrows for the hour with line quarters and cross half hours, with blued poker alarm hand being set against the Arabic disc.

Movement The fine gilt full plate movement with fusee to the verge escapement, three-arm steel balance with blued steel balance spring, decoratively pierced and engraved cock, with silver Arabic regulating disc and external worm for the set up, having tulip pillars with pierced and engraved alarm barrel, signed Tho: Tompion London.

Literature Britten’s Old clocks, Watches and their Makers, London 1982 9th Edition p.134, pl.80a & 80b. Thomas Tompion 300 years, 2013, Evans, Carter & Wright, p.56, 280, 614 & 616.

Provenance Time Museum Illinois USA inventory A64.Sothebys New York, Masterpieces from the Time Museum December 2nd 1999 lot 39. Sold $37,375.

6

Tompions first series of numbered watches started circa 1681, this watch can be dated to 1683 as we know that 406 was completed in 1683 and 563 completed in 1684. There are only two numbered alarm watches recorded by Thomas Tompion, numbers 461 and 1290, which has a later outer case. Unusually, the inner and outer cases of 461 were made by two of Tompions watchcasemakers and they fit and match perfectly. Only eight non-timepiece watches are recorded which include numbers 20 and 67 although these are coach watches with alarms.

8

Daniel Quare, London

A very fine pair cased quarter repeating verge watch no . 769 .Circa 1715 £57,500

Dimensions Case diameter 55mm.Case The inner case with band decoratively

pierced and engraved with scrolling foliage inhabited by animals, a grotesque mask at the base, plunge pendant, pulse piece between 6 and 7 o'clock. Gold outer case with decorative pierced roundels of varying sizes to the band and bezel. Movement, dial and dust cap signed D. Quare, London, movement numbered, inner case numbered below pendant and beneath the bell, inner case with maker's mark WI for William Jaques, outer case with maker's mark IL possibly for John Lowe, Laing or John Lee.

Dial Gold champlevé dial, Roman numerals, outer Arabic minute track, blued steel poker and tulip hands.

DurationMovement Gilt full plate movement, verge

escapement, three-arm brass balance, decoratively pierced and engraved balance cock, diamond end-stone, fusee and chain, turned pillars, two hammers repeating on a bell to the inside of the case. Gilt-metal dust cap.

Escapement Verge.Literature Terence Camerer Cuss, The English Watch

1585-1970, p. 166, pl. 90.

10

Breguet et Fils

A fine gold and silver example of Breguet’s Souscription watch, no . 1584 .23rd December 1815 £32,000

Diameter 62 mmCase The large and elegant engine-turned

silver case with gold bezels and bow. Case numbered to the inside back B2709.

Dial White enamel dial with dial fixing screw below 12. Typical Arabic numerals with five minute chapter divisions and single, blued steel Breguet hand, wound through the centre. Signed BREGUET ET FILS below 6, the miniature secret signature below 12 reading Souscription No.1584 Breguet in cursive script.

Movement The gilt movement with central going barrel with the balance and centre wheel symmetrically positioned, linked by the third and fourth wheel under chamfered bridges. The plate signed, Breguet No. 1584, The large balance with ruby cylinder escapement, temperature compensation curb and parachute shock protection.

Duration 40 hours Provenance Sold 23 December 1815 for 600 Francs to

Maj.-Gen. Sir Thomas Brisbane, Governor of New South Wales and founder of the city of Brisbane.

12

Jump, London

A rare platinum and gold open-faced moon-phase watch with calendar, no . M .X .E .J . Circa 1904 £ 59,500

Dimensions Case diameter 50mm.Case Gold engine-turned case with bayonet fit

back, the back turning to reveal the female winding square, platinum engine-turned band, gold engine-turned bezel, with gold double link Breguet style chain and ratchet key for winding, adjusting moon and date apertures, opposite female square for hand setting. The red leather fitted presentation case with gold tooling to the lid and signed Dent.

Dial Silver engine-turned dial, chapter ring with circular satin finish and black Roman numerals, outer perlé minute track, large aperture above 12 o’clock for moon-phases and small sector for date on a gold disc at 6 o’clock, gold moon hands. Signed Jump London.

Duration 24 hours.Movement Superb half-plate key wound spring driven

movement signed and with coded number m.x.e.j., further numbered 4311.

Escapement Lever escapement, bi-metallic compensation balance.

Literature Terence Camerer Cuss, The English Watch 1585-1970, p. 442, pl. 286.

Huyton Richard Jump worked for Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy until Vulliamy's death in 1854. In 1855, he, along with his sons Joseph and Alfred, established Jump & Sons, as a successor to Vulliamy at 1a Old Bond Street, London.

14

Breitling

Vintage Top Time 810 stainless steel manual chronograph wristwatch . Circa 1969 £3,500

Dimensions Case 38 mm.Deep 13 mm including glass.

Case One piece monocoque stainless steel case with inclined polished steel bezel, the back signed Breitling 810 Stainless Steel Antimagnetic Swiss Waterproof Shock protected. With steel chronograph pushers at 2 and 4 with signed serrated Breitling crown between, with convex plexi glass.Fitted to a modern black Breitling strap and Breitling buckle.

Dial The 33mm black patinated stepped convex chronograph dial with raised luminous hour batons, with outer minute and seconds track marked for 5th of a second with outer tachymeter marked 60-1000. Having white painted hands with luminous infills with centre sweep chronograph seconds hand. The contrasting sunken, silvered spun subsidiary dials for constant seconds, 30 minute and 12-hour timers, with plain black hands. Signed below 12 Breitling Geneve and further signed Top Time above 6.

Duration 24 hoursMovement The Swiss made Venus 178 manual wind

jewelled movement having jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance with steel balance spring.

Escapement Jewelled leverCondition Superb condition, case with minor

blemishes, movement serviced and guaranteed.

In 1965, Sean Connery, as James Bond, wore a Breitling Top Time in the 20th Century-Fox film ‘Thunderball’.

16

Eberhard

Vintage manual steel cased Chronograph wristwatch .Circa 1935 £1,800

Dimensions Case 39mm.Depth 11.5mm including glass.

Case Three part, satin finished steel case with narrow inclined bezel, square end concave lugs with convex snap on back and convex glass with serrated crown having central pusher for chronograph stop, start and zero functions. Fitted to a modern NATO strap.

Dial The 36mm white enamel dial with black Arabic hour numerals, Arabic 5 minute divisions, signed Chronomètre Eberhard Milan below the red 12 with outer red tachymeter scale marked 60-1000. Having subsidiary dial at 9 for constant seconds and 30-minute timer dial at 3, with blued steel hands and central sweep chronograph seconds hand.

Duration 24 hours.

Movement Rare, Swiss made, manually wound mono push chronograph movement, with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and blued steel balance spring.

Escapement Jewelled Lever

Condition Case, movement and dial in very good condition. Serviced and guaranteed. .

Georges Eberhard established Eberhard et Compagnie in La-Chaux-de-Fonds in 1887. They gained popularity after the First World War as a wristwatch chronograph maker at a time when such complications were still rarely used. In 1935, Eberhard introduced a chronograph with two buttons featuring stop and start functions without the need of a reset. During the second World War they made and sold watches to the Italian Military along with Officine Panerai.

18

1868 Florentine Ariosto Jones (1841-1916), a watchmaker from Boston, Massachusetts, founds the International Watch Company in Schaffhausen. His aim was to produce high quality pocket watches for the American market.

1879 Firm taken over by machine/tool makers, the Rauschenbach family.

1914 Appearance of wristwatches at IWC, with officers’ watches, driven notably by calibre 64.

1936 IWC presented its first wristwatch for aviators with a black dial, large luminous figures, clearly visible luminous hands and a rotating lunette with orientation arrow.

1939 The birth of the Portuguese watch: two importers from Portugal order a series of large wristwatches with high-precision pocket watch calibres.

1940 In response to demand, IWC develops the Big Pilot’s Watch 52 T. S. C. with a central seconds hand.

1944 The appearance of IWC’s first W W W, a new wristwatch for military use by the British Army. The letters W W W engraved on the back of the case stand for ‘Watch, Wrist, Waterproof’ and the broad arrowhead insignia indicates British government property.

1948 The Pilot's Watch Mark 11 with the 89 calibre, its soft-iron inner case provides unusually high protection against magnetic fields.

1950 IWC caused a sensation with automatic movements of unusual design. The calibre 85, used for the pilot function, was constantly improved in the following years.

1978 Co-operation with designer F A Porsche results in the first wristwatch with a built-in compass. The same year, German instrument manufacturer VDO Adolf Schindling AG takes over IWC.

International Watch Company – IWC, Shaffhausen

19

1985 Launch of the Da Vinci, with automatic chronograph and perpetual calendar, and also Il Destriero Scafusia, with fly-back chronograph, perpetual calendar, tourbillon and minute repeater.

1991 Merger with the German group Mannesmann. IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre and A. Lange & Sohne regrouped by holding company Les Manufactures Horlogeres-LMH.

2000 Group taken over by Richemont group Introduction of 5000 calibre and launch of 5000 of the Portugese Automatic 2000.

2001 Launch of GST line.

2002 Reissue of the prestigious 46 mm diameter aviator’s watch.

2003 Launch of the Portuguese Perpetual Calendar with the in-house 50611 calibre guaranteed accurate to within one day every 577 year for calculations of the moon’s position.

2013 IWC cooperates with the Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One Team with case materials such as titanium aluminide, carbon, ceramic and titanium, all inspired by the range of materials in use by the team.

20

IWC

Vintage automatic staybrite stainless steel dress watch .Circa 1958 £2,200

Dimensions Case diameter 35mm.Depth 10.5mm including glass.

Case Staybrite steel three body case with double step polished inclined steel bezel and shallow convex plexi glass. Fish motif IWC serrated crown, chamfered snap on steel back signed International Watch Co Swiss. Reference 1446965.

Dial The 30mm flat silvered dial with applied chamfered polished steel hour batons with steel dot minute markers, with raised polished steel IWC emblem at 12 and International Watch Company Schaffhausen below. Further signed Automatic above 6, having polished steel slim line hands with luminous infills and central sweep seconds hand.

Duration 24 hours.Movement The 21 jewel calibre 853 automatic

movement signed International Watch Co Swiss with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and blued steel balance spring. Reference 1459875.

Escapement Jewelled leverCondition Case and movement in excellent condition,

serviced and guaranteed.

21

IWC

Vintage large format automatic 18ct gold wristwatch .Circa 1953 £3,950

Dimensions Case 44mm × 33mm including lugs.Depth 12mm including glass.

Case 18ct gold rectangular case with polished inclined gold bezel with shaped convex straight side plexi glass, small gold crown, snap on back signed International Watch Co Swiss, reference 1293995. Fitted to a stitched burgundy crocodile Hirsch strap with gilt buckle.

Dial The 25mm square cream painted dial with raised gold hour batons inner gilt dot markers with gold hands and centre sweep seconds hand. Signed below 12 International Watch Company Schaffhausen. Further signed Automatic above 6.

Duration 24 hours.Movement The calibre 852 automatic movement

signed International Watch Co Swiss, with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and steel balance spring. Reference 1290095.

Escapement Jewelled leverCondition Case and movement in outstanding

condition.

22

IWC

A Mark XV automatic stainless steel wristwatch .Circa 2003 £2,950


Case Stainless steel case with polished inclined steel bezel and convex sapphire glass, screw down IWC crown, screw back signed IWC Die Fliegeruhr Automatic, reference 2761042. Fitted to a stainless steel IWC mesh bracelet, with signed IWC clasp.

Dial The 32mm black dial with luminous hour batons and Arabic numerals with further luminous minute markers. Signed below 12 IWC Schaffhausen. Further signed Mark XV Automatic above 6 with calendar aperture at 3, having polished steel hands with luminous infills and central sweep seconds hand.

Duration 24 hours.Movement The Swiss-made automatic movement

signed IWC with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and steel balance spring.

Escapement Jewelled lever.Condition Case and movement in excellent condition,

some minor surface scratches. With IWC box.

24

Jaeger-LeCoutre

1833 Antoine LeCoultre (1803-1881), an innovative self-taught watchmaker, founds the company.

1844 Invention of the Millionometer, the most accurate measuring tool of its time. It is the first instrument capable of measuring thousandths of a millimetre.

1847 Antoine LeCoultre makes a keyless crown winding system, the second keyless watch after Adrien Philippe’s invention of 1842.

1851 LeCoultre receives a gold medal at The Great Exhibition in London for his chronometer

1880 Founding of Jaeger in Paris by Edmond Jaeger (1858-1922), as official Horologer to the French Navy, he makes chronometers, tachometers, kinemometers and cockpit clocks.

1900 Jacques-David LeCoultre takes charge of production

1902 For the next 30 years, LeCoultre & Cie supplies most of the movement blanks (ébauches) for Patek Philippe.

1903 Jacques-David LeCoultre meets Edmond Jaeger, having learned of his plan to make ultra-thin watches.

1907 Cartier signs an exclusive contract with Edmond Jaeger and LeCoultre & Cie make their watches. The company creates the world’s thinnest crown winding pocket-watch movement, 1.38 mm high.

1915 Together with the pioneer aviator Edmond Audemars (1882-1970), Jaeger and LeCoultre produce aviation and automobile instruments these become standard equipment on allied planes during World War I and subsequently used in many prestigious post-war cars.

1925 Invention of the Duoplan watch, the calibre consists of two superposed levels making it possible to accommodate a large watch movement within a small case.

1928 The creation of the Atmos clock.

1930 Birth of the Reverso. After a polo match in India, British officers challenged César de Trey to create a watch able to withstand the hard knocks inflicted by the sport. On his return, the businessman contacted Jacques-David LeCoultre, who created the Reverso in association with Jaeger.

26

1931 The Reverso case was designed in Paris by René-Alfred Chauvot and patented on March 4th 1931.

1932 LeCoultre fail in their bid to buy Patek Philippe and cease making their ébauches.

1937 Official birth of the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand

1946 First Jaeger-LeCoultre automatic watch

1950 Birth of the Memovox, meaning literally “the voice of memory”. These first alarm models were manually wound, Calibres 489 and 814 (with date display).

1953 Jaeger-LeCoultre invents the first 100% automatic watch with no winding-crown, the Futurematic,

1956 The automatic Memovox, produced between 1956 and 1968, it is equipped with Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 815, a 17-jewel, 18,000-vph mechanical automatic movement with alarm function.

1958 Geophysic Chronometer, protected against magnetic fields, shock and water-resistant. In 1962, this automatic watch is renamed Geomatic.

1967 Jaeger-LeCoultre takes part in the creation of the first quartz wristwatch in watch making history. Bêta 2 makes a clean sweep of all the Observatory prizes in the chronometer category.

1989 The Grand Réveil, incorporates a large complication within the limited space of a wristwatch. The high-frequency automatic Memovox Calibre 919 comprises 350 parts, a perpetual calendar with moon phases and alarm, striking on a bronze bell.

1990 Géographique, automatic Calibre 929 with 24 time zones, day-night indication, power-reserve and a high-frequency balance.

1992 Master 1000 Hours.

1993 The Reverso incorporates in turn; tourbillon; 1994, minute repeater and Reverso Duo, new dual dial, dual time-zone watch; 1996 retrograde chronograph; 1998 time-zone mechanism and 2000 perpetual calendar.

2002 Master Compressor Memovox.

27

Jaeger-leCoultre

Vintage Memovox alarm stainless steel wristwatch with automatic bumper movement .Circa 1967 £4,400

Dimensions Case diameter 37mm.Depth 13mm including glass.

Case Two body stainless steel case with integral polished inclined bezel, twin serrated crowns for hand set and alarm wind / set, chamfered screw back, with convex plexi glass. Fitted to a rare Jaeger-LeCoultre stainless steel chain link bracelet with signed deployment clasp. Reference 951074.

Dial Rare black 32mm convex dial with applied polished steel Arabic hour batons with luminous dot markers below, with luminous pointer to the central rotating black inner alarm disc and signed Jaeger-LeCoultre Automatic below 12, with polished steel hands and luminous infills.

Duration 24 hoursMovement The Swiss made calibre K.825 Jaeger-

LeCoultre automatic, bumper movement, with alarm having jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and steel balance spring. The bumper movement has a weighted arm, which has a swing of 130 degrees as opposed to the modern rotor, which has a rotating action of 360 degrees. The term bumper derives from the sound of the absorbing spring that the weighted arm or pendulum touches or bumps against. Reference 1860746.

Escapement Jewelled leverCondition Case, dial and movement signed serviced

and guaranteed in excellent condition. Very rare watch.

In 1950 Jaeger LeCoultre released the Memovox alarm watch whose name is derived from memoria and vox which translates to voice of memory. By 1956 they had released the automatic version

28

LeCoultre

Vintage stainless steel wristwatch with automatic bumper movement .Circa 1950 £1,900


Case Three body stainless steel case with undercut shaped lugs, recessed serrated crown, chamfered screw back, with shaped polished steel bezel and convex plexi glass. Fitted to a modern light brown stitched crocodile Hirsch strap. Reference 504206.

Dial The 30mm French silvered convex dial with luminous Arabic hour numerals and black inner minute track, with red / silver Arabic numbered power indicator to the demilune aperture at 12 and signed LeCoultre Automatic below, with blued steel line hands and luminous infills.

Duration 40 hoursMovement The Swiss made calibre 481 LeCoultre

automatic, bumper movement, with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and blued steel balance spring. The bumper movement has a weighted arm, which has a swing of 130 degrees as opposed to the modern rotor, which has a rotating action of 360 degrees. The term bumper derives from the sound of the absorbing spring that the weighted arm or pendulum touches or bumps against. Reference 702996.

Escapement Jewelled leverCondition Case, dial and movement serviced

and guaranteed in excellent condition throughout.

Jaeger LeCoultre watches signed LeCoultre alone were produced to overcome complex duty regulations in the United States. The movements, dials, crowns and hands were made by Jaeger LeCoultre in Switzerland, while the cases were made under license in the USA. This continued until circa 1985 when the name Jaeger-LeCoultre was adopted worldwide.

30

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Vintage stainless steel manual triple calendar stainless steel dress watch .Circa 1942 £4,900


Case The polished stainless steel case with unusual sloping teardrop lugs, inclined bezel and serrated crown, flush pushers for calendar set, chamfered back and convex plexi glass. Reference 252413. Fitted to a brown Crocodile Hirsch strap.

Dial The 31mm cream convex dial with applied gilt polished hour batons, black minute band to the outer edge bordering the red Arabic calendar ring numbered 1-31. Signed Jaeger Le Coulter, With chamfered calendar apertures below exposing day of the week and month in red capitals. With red arrow head calendar pointer and gilt hands for hours and minutes, with counter poised gilt hand to the subsidiary seconds at 6.

Duration 24 hours

Movement The manually wound Swiss made calibre 464A Jaeger LeCoultre movement, having jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and steel balance spring. Reference 249075.

Escapement Jewelled lever

Condition Case, dial and movement signed serviced and guaranteed in excellent condition.

31

Longines

Vintage large format manual silver dress wristwatch .Circa 1928 £2,800

Dimensions Case 47 × 28mm including lugs.Depth 8.5mm including glass.

Case 925 polished silver rectangular case with sweeping concave sides and teardrop lugs with shaped convex bevel edge mineral glass, small sunken serrated silver crown, snap on back, reference 4759656. Fitted to a mid brown Lizard Hirsch strap.

Dial The 26 × 18mm square cream painted dial with luminous Arabic numerals, signed Longines below 12 with outer rectangular minute band and rectangular Arabic seconds dial above 6, blued steel luminous filled Cathedral hands and blued steel counterpoised seconds hand.

Duration 24 hours.Movement The calibre 9.47N manually wound

movement signed Longines, with jewelled lever escapement, split bimetallic compensated balance and blued steel Breguet overcoil balance spring. Reference 4759656.

Escapement Jewelled leverCondition Case, movement and dial in outstanding

condition. Serviced and guaranteed.

Established in 1832, the company was later located in Saint-Imier or more precisely Es Longines which translates to Long Meadows. Longines developed the first rectangular movements and cases for their wrist watches in 1916.

32

Longines

Vintage oversize manual stainless steel wristwatch .Circa 1952 £1,900

Dimensions Case 38mm.Depth11.5mm including glass.

Case Three part polished stainless steel case with sweeping concave lugs, flat rim bezel and straight side convex plexi glass, with serrated crown, snap on back, reference 4915-13. Fitted to a dark blue Hirsch crocodile strap.

Dial The 35mm silvered convex dial with raised gilt Arabic numerals, signed below 12 with signature logo below. Having recessed seconds dial above 6, gilt hands and counterpoised seconds hand.

Duration 24 hours.

Movement The 17 jewel calibre 12.68Z manually wound movement signed Longines , with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and blued steel balance spring. Reference 8712439.

Escapement Jewelled lever

Condition Case, movement and dial in outstanding condition. Serviced and guaranteed. With red Longines box.

33

Movado

Vintage manual 18ct gold chronograph wristwatch .Circa 1944 £3,600

Dimensions Case diameter 34.5mm.Depth 12mm including glass.

Case The three body 18ct rose gold case with polished inclined bezel, polished snap on back, signed Movado serrated gold crown with rectangular gold pushers at 2 and 4.Convex plexi glass. Fitted to a modern black stitched leather Hirsch strap. Reference 104060.

Dial Rare 29mm gloss black convex dial with patinated luminous Arabic hour numerals, outer minute track divided into 5th with Arabic 5 minute divisions. Having two further tracks for Telemetre 0-19 and 60-1000 respectively. Gilt subsidiary dials at 3 and 9, for 60 minute counter and constant seconds, with polished gold hands and central sweep chronograph seconds hand. Signed Movado below 12.

Duration 24 hoursMovement Rare early Swiss made Chronograph

manually wound jeweled movement with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance. Signed Movado with steel balance spring. Reference R9023

Escapement Jewelled leverCondition Case and movement serviced and

guaranteed in excellent condition throughout.

Movado was originally founded in 1881 in La Chaux-de-Fonds Switzerland by Achilles Ditesheim. In 1969 Mondia Zenith Movado came together to form MZM Holdings.

34

Omega

1848 Louis Brandt opened a sales outlet for watches manufactured under licence.

1880 The brothers Louis-Paul and César Brandt manufactured watches in Bienne, signed Jura, Patria, Helvetia, Celtic and Gurzelen.

1885 The Labrador calibre reached working precision of 30 seconds per day.

1889 Louis Brandt & Son became the biggest watch company in Switzerland, with an annual production of 100,000 watches.

1892 Creation, in cooperation with Audemars Piguet, of the first minute repeater wristwatch in the world.

1894 A new calibre of pocket watch went into mass production, winning popularity for the simplicity of its construction and the interchangeability of its parts. The banker Henri Rieckel suggested the name Omega.

1903 The success of Omega led the firm to drop all other names.

1909 For the first time, Omega ventured into sports chronometers, during the international balloon races, in particular the Gordon Bennett Cup.

1917 The British Royal Flying Corps chose Omega watches for its pilots.

1918 The US Army followed suit in its choice of Omega.

1919 Omega chronometers won the Neuchâtel Observatory precision prize, the first of around twenty collected by 1971.

1932 International Olympic Committee appoint Omega as the official timekeeper of the 1932 Los Angeles Olympiad.

1936 Omega wins the world record for precision.

1957 Creation of the Omega Speedmaster wristwatch chronograph.

36

1965 Following extremely exacting tests, NASA chose the Speedmaster Professional chronometer for use by astronauts in its space programme.

1967 Omega obtained the millionth official certificate for precision for a chronometer.

1969 On July 21, at 2:56 UCT, the astronaut Neil Armstrong became the first man to walk on the Moon. He was wearing an Omega Speedmaster Professional wristwatch.

1970 At the request of Commander Jacques Cousteau, Omega created the Seamaster Professional 600 (known as the PLOPROF, from plongeur professionnel or professional diver). This watch, in its ‘monobloc’ case with bolted winding crown, set a world record for underwater exploration at a depth of 253m in the Ajaccio Gulf in France.

1972 Omega obtained the 2,000,000th official precision certificate.

1995 Introduction of the first wristwatch in the world with automatic winding crown and central tourbillon.

In GoldenEye, Pierce Brosnan became the first James Bond to wear an Omega. His Seamaster Professional 300m was complete with a laser beam and remote control for detonating devices

1999 Omega introduced the Co-Axial Escapement in the automatic 2500 calibre, invented by the English master watchmaker, Dr. George Daniels.

2001 Launch of the Museum Collection with the re-issue of the Pilot’s Watch.

2002 Cosmic Museum Collection.

2003 Launch of the Railmaster.

2006 As James Bond, in Casino Royale, Daniel Craig wears two Omega models: a blue Omega Seamaster 300m chronometer and a black Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m Co-Axial chronometer.

2015 Seamaster 300 Spectre Limited Edition.

37

Omega

Vintage stainless steel wristwatch with early automatic bumper movement .Circa 1948 £1,500

Dimensions Case diameter 35mm. Depth 9mm including glass.

Case Stainless steel case with chamfered snap on back, polished steel bezel convex glass. Signed Omega and numbered with original recessed Omega crown, fitted to a modern green stitched leather strap.

Dial The 30mm silvered convex dial with luminous Arabic hour divisions, having subsidiary seconds dial at 6, polished steel hands with luminous infills. Dial signed Omega Automatic below 12 with Omega symbol above.

Duration 24 hours.Movement The Swiss-made automatic, bumper

movement, signed Omega, with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and blued steel balance spring, calibre 332. This early automatic movement has a weighted arm, which has a swing of 130 degrees as opposed to the more modern rotor, which has a rotating action of 360 degrees. The term bumper derives from the sound of the absorbing spring that the weighted arm or pendulum touches or bumps against.

Escapement Jewelled lever.Condition Case and movement recently serviced

and overhauled in excellent condition throughout, some minor surface scratches, dial restored.

38

Omega

Vintage manual stainless steel wristwatch .Circa 1964 £1,600


Case Stainless steel case with screw back, polished bezel, convex glass. Signed Omega and numbered 2536-10, with original Omega crown, fitted to a modern blue stitched leather Hirsh strap.

Dial The 30mm silvered dial with gilt black lined Arabic hour divisions for 12, 3 and 9 having subsidiary seconds dial at 6 with triangular divisions and luminous dot markers for the further hours, steel hands with luminous infills. Dial signed Omega below 12 with Omega symbol above.

Duration 24 hours.Movement The Swiss-made manual-wound signed

Omega movement, with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and blued steel balance spring. Reference 21086958.

Escapement Jewelled lever.Condition Case and movement recently serviced

and overhauled in excellent condition throughout, some minor surface scratches, dial with lovely patination, original and unrestored.

39

Omega

Vintage manual stainless steel chronograph wristwatch .Circa 1950 £3,600


Case The three body stainless steel case with polished inclined bezel convex spun snap on back, signed Omega serrated crown with steel rectangular pushers at 2 and 4.Convex plexi glass. Fitted to a modern black stitched leather Hirsch strap. Reference 12040207.

Dial Rare black and gilt convex 30mm dial with applied polished gold Arabic hour numerals at 12, 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10. Having applied polished gold dot markers between, with gilt line minute divisions and gilt Arabic five minute divisions. Gilt subsidiary dials at 3, 6 and 9, for 30 minute and 12 hour counters and constant seconds, with polished gold hands and central sweep chronograph seconds hand. Signed Omega below 12 with gilt Omega symbol above.

Duration 24 hoursMovement The Swiss made Chronograph 17 jewel

manually wound Omega movement with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance with Breguet overcoil blued steel balance spring. Reference 1242000.


guaranteed in excellent condition, boxed.

This superb calibre was first used between 1942 and 1943.

40

Omega

Rare vintage Pre-Moon ‘Ed White’ Speedmaster manual stainless steel wristwatch, calibre 321 .Circa 1965 £6,900

Dimensions Case diameter 42mm. Depth 13.5mm including glass.

Case Straight line stainless steel case with chamfered screw on back, with fixed black tachymetre bezel, with accent over the E and dot over 90, convex Omega plexi glass. Signed Omega and numbered with original Omega crown and steel pushers, fitted to a modern brown stitched leather Hirsh strap, but retaining an original stainless steel Omega bracelet. Case reference ST105.003.

Dial The beautifully patinated black 33mm chamfered convex dial with luminous hour batons, having subsidiary seconds dials at 3, 6 and 9, patinated hands with luminous infills, and tear drop chronograph seconds hand. Dial signed Omega Speedmaster below 12 with metal Omega symbol above, Swiss-made T below 6.

Duration 24 hours.Movement The Swiss-made manually-wound calibre

321 signed Omega movement reference 22063653 with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and blued steel balance spring.

Escapement Jewelled lever.Condition Highly original. Case and movement

recently serviced and overhauled in excellent condition throughout, some minor surface scratches. With Omega box.

This model of watch, the Omega Speedmaster 105.003, was worn by Ed White outside of his spacesuit during the historic spacewalk in June 1965 – becoming the first wristwatch ever worn in space.

42

Omega

Vintage Pre-Moon Speedmaster Professional manual stainless steel wristwatch with rare chocolate dial, calibre 321 .Circa 1967 £4,600

Dimensions Case diameter 42mm. Depth 13.5mm including glass.

Case Stainless steel case with chamfered screw-on back, with fixed black tachymetre bezel convex Omega plexi glass. Signed Omega and numbered with recessed Omega crown and steel pushers, fitted to a modern chocolate brown stitched leather Hirsh strap. Reference ST105.003.

Dial The rare 33mm chamfered convex chocolate dial with luminous hour batons, having subsidiary seconds dials at 3, 6 and 9, painted hands with luminous infills. Dial signed Omega Speedmaster Professional below 12 with metal Omega symbol above.

Duration 24 hours.Movement The Swiss-made manually-wound signed

Omega movement reference 24951050 with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and blued steel balance spring, calibre 321.

Escapement Jewelled lever.Condition Service replacement hands and bezel. In

excellent condition throughout, with some minor surface scratches.

This iconic watch drew the attention of NASA in 1962 after it was worn on the Mercury 9 mission but purchased privately by Wally Schirra and Gordon Cooper. NASA decided to procure chronograph watches for future space missions. After rigorous testing between 1964 and 1965 the Speedmaster was the only Chronograph which survived, and NASA declared it operational for space exploration. Omega learned about this after seeing Ed White wearing a ‘Speedy’ strapped on his wrist with a Velcro band during America’s first spacewalk as part of the Gemini 4 mission in June 1965. To this day, the Omega Speedmaster remains part of NASA astronauts’ official equipment.

44

Omega

Vintage Seamaster 120 stainless steel manual wristwatch, calibre 601 .Circa 1968 £2,200

Dimensions Case 37 mm.Deep 10 mm including glass.

Case Stainless steel case with flat polished lugs with grey / black Arabic rotating bezel with circular convex plexi glass and Omega crown, with signed Seamaster 120 screw back. Reference 135027. Fitted to a modern black and grey striped NATO strap.

Dial The black 30mm circular convex dial with raised polished steel baton at 12, 3, 6 and 9. Having luminous infills with further bold luminous batons for the remaining hours. Polished steel hands with luminous infills and centre sweep seconds hand. Signed below the applied metal Omega logo, further signed Seamaster 120 above VI

Duration 24 hoursMovement The Swiss-made manual wind movement

having 17 jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance with steel balance spring. Signed Omega Watch Co. Calibre 601. Reference 28102637

Escapement Jewelled lever.Condition Original bezel with some wear, case with

minor scratches, movement recently serviced and overhauled.

Launched in 1966 as a specialist wristwatch for scuba diving, tested to 120m, it remained in production until 1973.

46

Omega

Vintage De Ville manual stainless steel chronograph wristwatch, calibre 860 .Circa 1968 £3,400


Case Stainless steel case with chamfered screw back, signed Omega serrated crown with steel pushers at 2 and 4. Signed convex Omega plexi glass. Fitted to a modern black Omega stitched leather strap with Omega buckle. Reference 145.017.

Dial The lightly patinated flat silvered 30mm dial with raised polished steel hour batons having black inserts, chamfered concave subsidiary dials at 3 and 9, for constant seconds and 30 minute counter, patinated steel hands with luminous infills and black inserts, with polished steel central sweep chronograph seconds hand. Signed Omega below 12 with metal Omega symbol above, further signed De Ville above 6.

Duration 24 hoursMovement The Swiss made 17 jewel manually wound

calibre 860 Omega movement with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and steel balance spring, incorporating micrometer adjustment. Reference 27714561.


guaranteed in excellent condition, boxed.

48

Omega

Seamaster Professional Chronometer stainless steel automatic wristwatch with oversized batons and Helium escape valve .Circa 2005 £2,200


Case Stainless steel case with signed Seamaster screw back. Black unidirectional rotating Arabic bezel, convex Sapphire glass. Signed Omega setting crown and helium escape valve at 10, with steel bracelet signed Omega Seamaster Professional two button deployment clasp with integrated diver suit extension.

Dial The 30.5mm grey black wavy line date dial with oversized luminous batons and extra large luminous triangular baton at 12, having bold polished steel hands with luminous infills and polished luminous filled centre sweep seconds hand. Signed Omega below 12 with Omega symbol above, further signed Seamaster Professional Chronometer 300m/1000ft above 6.

Duration 24 hoursMovement The Swiss made 1120 calibre, 23 jewel

automatic, signed Omega movement, with lever escapement and steel hairspring.


serviced and guaranteed, Omega box.

50

Omega

Seamaster Planet Ocean stainless steel Co-Axial chronometer wristwatch, calibre 2500 .Circa 2008 £2,500

Dimensions Case diameter 41mm. Depth 14.5mmCase Stainless steel case with chamfered screw-

on back, signed Seamaster Planet Ocean, rotating orange numbered bezel, convex glass. Signed Omega and numbered with original Omega crown, with helium escape valve at 10, fitted to a modern dark blue stitched Hirsh rubber sports strap, with spare steel Omega bracelet.

Dial The 30.5mm matt black dial with luminous batons and red Arabic numerals for 12, 6 and 9, having centre sweep seconds, polished steel broad arrow hands with luminous infills. Dial signed Omega Seamaster Professional below 12 with Omega symbol above, with Co-Axial chronometer 600m/2000ft above 6.

Duration 24 hours.Movement The Swiss-made calibre 2500 automatic,

signed Omega movement, with Co-Axial escapement.

Escapement Daniels Co-Axial.Condition Case and movement in excellent condition

throughout, some minor surface scratches, original box and papers.

Having purchased the 1980 patent for the Co-Axial escapement in 1993 from its inventor, English watchmaker Dr. George Daniels, Omega set about fitting it to the calibre 1120, developing this model over the next 6 years and finally releasing calibre 2500 in 1999. The Co-Axial escapement is considered by many to be the most significant horological advancement since the invention of the lever escapement.

52

Frank Muller

An oversized 18ct yellow gold tonneau cased automatic bi-retrograde perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon-phases and leap year indication, number 4 . Circa 2002 £33,000

Dimensions Case diameter 48 × 35mm.Depth 14mm including glass.

Case The 18ct yellow gold Tonneau case with integrated inclined bezel with convex Sapphire glass, having lugged rectangular screwed back signed Frank Muller Geneve Master Of Complications No 4. With serrated crown and four flush pushers for calendar setting, with tapered gold pushers for the Chronograph stop/start and zero functions. Fitted to a brown crocodile strap with gold buckle. Reference 7850 CC QPB.

Dial The 35 × 28mm engine turned convex silver dial with black tumbling Arabic numerals, blued steel hands, inner chapter ring with bi-retrograde perpetual calendar inscribed for days of the week, Mo to Su and days of the month 1-31, each with blued steel hands. Having recessed month dial below 12 for alternate months. With further recessed dials and blued steel hands for the chronograph counters of 30 minute and 12 hour respectively with blued steel centre sweep chronograph seconds hand. Having recessed moon dial above 6 with rotating blue disc mounted with gold moon and stars, with aperture below 12 showing the leap year. Signed Frank Muller Geneve Perpetual Biretro.

Duration 24 hoursMovement The Swiss made automatic nickel lever

movement with 45 jewels, signed Frank Muller calibre 5888BR. Monometallic balance with self-compensating flat balance spring, platine 950 rotor, adjusted to 5 positions.

Escapement Jeweled lever.Condition Case and movement in excellent condition

some minor surface scratches. Original Frank Muller box and papers, dated 2002.

54

Patek Philippe

1839 Antoine Norbert de Patek teamed up with the watchmaker François Czapek, (a Czech who had taken Polish nationality). Together, they created Patek, Czapek & Co, at 29 Quai des Bergues in Geneva where, they produced about 200 very high quality watches per year.

1844 When the young firm presented its products at a Paris exhibition, Patek first heard the name of Jean-Adrien Philippe. He had made a very slim fob watch with no winding or time set key, and his prowess impressed Patek.

1845 On the expiry of Czapek’s contract, Patek and his former associate fell into disagreement, and went their separate ways. Patek & Co first appeared on 15 May 1845, still on Geneva’s Quai des Bergues, but moving to number 15.

Patek offered Philippe the post of technical director in his Geneva firm, and his offer was accepted.

1851 On 1 January, the business was rechristened Patek Philippe & Co.

1867 Patek Philippe are credited with the first conventional wristwatch, for Countess Koscowicz, although the concept had been around for centuries. Elizabeth I had an ‘arm-watch’, Jacquet-Droz et Leschot mention ‘a watch fixed to a bracelet’ in their account book of 1790 and Breguet produced a similar bracelet watch in 1809.

1868 Presentation of a jewel watch with baguette movement and a dial set beneath a huge precious stone.

1877 Death of Count Antoine Norbert de Patek, who had been granted his title for services to the Catholic Church by Pope Pious IX.

1890 Jean-Adrien Philippe awarded the Ordre national de la Légion d’honneur in recognition of his achievements for France.

1894 Death of Jean-Adrien Philippe.

56

1901 Patek Philippe & Co. became a limited company with a capital of 1.6M Swiss francs. The new name was Ancienne Manufacture d’Horlogerie Patek Philippe & Co.

1927 Patek Philippe presented the first wristwatch in the world with perpetual calendar.

1932 The firm rejected a bid by Jacques David LeCoultre, and was taken over by the brothers Charles and Jean Stern.

1933 Jean Pfister, the former head of the Geneva branch of Tavannes Watch Co., became President of the company. Patek Philippe delivered the Henry Graves Supercomplication, the most complicated pocket watch in the world, for the American industrialist Henry Graves Jr.

1937 First wristwatches with worldwide times, produced with the assistance of the Geneva watchmaker Louis Cottier.

1941 First wristwatches with perpetual calendar and chronograph.

1949 A patent was awarded for Patek Philippe’s Gyromax balance wheel.

1958 Henri Stern succeeded Jean Pfister as president of the board.

1959 A Swiss patent is granted for time-zone mechanisms invented by Louis Cottier.

1989 For the brand’s 150th birthday, Patek Philippe created the second example of the most complicated pocket watch in the world with the calibre 89.

1997 New factory at Plan-les-Ouates in the suburbs of Geneva.

2000 The firm unveiled a third most complicated pocket watch in the world: the Star Calibre 2000.

2014 The Henry Graves Supercomplication pocket watch sells at auction for £13.4m

57

Patek Philippe & Co.

A fine vintage 18ct gold Calatrava reference 130 chronograph wristwatch .Date 1941 £29,500

Dimensions 33mm diameterCase No. 623.671, circular 18ct gold case

with downturned concave tapered lugs, the crown flanked by two rectangular chronograph buttons in the band, with snap on back.

Dial Silvered dial, applied gold baton indexes and Roman numerals for VI and XII, outer railway five minute divisions, tachymeter scale, two subsidiary dials for constant seconds and 30 minutes register, gold and blued steel hands. Signed Patek Philippe & Co Genève.

Movement The Swiss-made calibre 13''' manually wound movement with 23 jewels, lever escapement adjusted to eight positions. Signed Patek Philippe & Co Genève and numbered 862.615.

Escapement LeverCondition Case, dial and movement in excellent

condition. Serviced and guaranteed, Patek Philippe box and archive paper.

Provenance From certificate, manufactured 1941, sold 26th July 1941. Sotheby’s Geneva, 14 November 2001, lot 330 (CHF 41,500).

Reference 130 was Patek Philippe’s first chronograph model that was given a reference number. Launched in 1934 it was produced in different precious metals as well as stainless steel.

58

Patek Philippe

Vintage Gondolo 18ct white gold manual dress wristwatch .Circa 1970 £8,500

Dimensions Case 34mm × 25mm.Depth 6.5mm including glass.

Case The two part 18ct white gold case with chamfered grained and polished snap on back signed Patek Philippe Genève serrated Patek crown and flat sapphire glass. Fitted to a stitched black crocodile Patek Philippe strap, with signed 18ct white gold Patek Philippe buckle. Reference 3430.

Dial The 24mm square brush silvered dial with white gold hour batons and simple polished white gold hands. Signed Patek Philippe Geneve below 12.

Duration 24 hoursMovement The Swiss made 23-300 manually-wound

movement with 18 jewels, free-sprung Gyromax balance and blued steel Breguet overcoil hairspring. Tested isochronism to 5 positions and signed Patek Philippe & Co Geneve. Reference 795483.

Escapement Free-sprung Gyromax.Condition Case and movement in superb condition,

serviced and guaranteed, Patek Philippe box and archive paper.

60

Patek Philippe

150 year celebration limited edition 18ct yellow gold manual officers watch .Circa 1989 £16,500


Case The three part 18ct yellow gold officer’s case with hunter bezel and hinged hunter back exposing the inner gold cuvette and inscription Patek Philippe Geneve 150 anniversary 1839-1989, with Turban-style crown and convex glass. Signed and numbered Patek Philippe. Fitted to the original untouched black crocodile Patek Philippe strap, with original seal and 18ct gold buckle. Reference 3960.

Dial The 28mm white porcelain dial with black Breguet hour numerals, with subsidiary seconds dial at 6. Having blued steel Breguet hour and minute hands. Signed Patek Philippe Geneve below 12.

Duration 24 hours.Movement The Swiss-made calibre 215 manually-

wound movement with 18 jewels, with free-sprung Gyromax balance.

Escapement Free-sprung Gyromax.Condition Case and movement as new. Never used

and in perfect condition throughout. Original Patek Philippe box and papers.

In 1989, Patek Philippe celebrated the 150th anniversary of its founding. This occasion can be described as a turning point in their history. It was in 1989 that Patek released their first limited edition watch. The 3960 is considered by many to be the first truly limited edition, anniversary watch.

62

Patek Philippe

A complicated 18ct rose gold automatic annular calendar wristwatch, reference 5036/1 .Circa 2002 £29,000

Dimensions Case diameter 37.Depth 11mm including glass.

Case The three part 18ct rose yellow gold case with polished convex bezel, Sapphire screw back exposing the movement. With recessed serrated Patek Philippe crown and 4 flush pushers for calendar setting, with 18ct rose gold signed Patek bracelet with deployment clasp and safety lock. Reference 5036/1R-001.

Dial The 29mm flat silvered dial with raised gold Arabic numerals, power reserve at 12, double calendar for day and month below with demilune aperture for the blue and gold star mounted moon dial, with Arabic date at 6. Having rose gold hands with luminous infils for the hours and minutes, with blued steel centre sweep seconds hand. Signed Patek Philippe Geneve above 6.

Duration 24 hoursMovement The Swiss made calibre 315/199 automatic

movement with 37 jewels , having free-sprung gyromax balance with 18ct gold rotor.

Escapement Free-sprung Gyromax.Condition Case and movement in perfect condition

throughout. Original Patek Philippe box and papers, dated 2002.

Patented by Patek Philippe in 1996, this ingenious new type of annular calendar only needs to be reset once a year, automatically adjusting for 30 or 31 days with a correction only needed for the 1st of March, when February has either 28 or 29 days.

64

Patek Philippe

A Travel Time 5034 18ct rose gold manual ‘dual-time’ wristwatch .Circa 2008 £11,500


Case The 18 ct rose gold Calatrava-style case with raised gold knurled bezel and crown with convex glass and knurled time traveller buttons at 8 and 10. Signed Patek Philippe and numbered. Fitted to a new Patek Philippe stitched, blue crocodile strap.

Dial The 30mm flat white dial with black Breguet hour numerals, having subsidiary 24 hour dial below 12 with gold indicator, having matched Breguet seconds dial at 6 with black indicator. The main slender hands in black steel with time traveller hand in gold.

Duration 44 hours.Movement The Swiss-made manually-wound

movement with 18 jewels comprising of 178 parts, with free-sprung gyromax balance and flat mobile stud balance spring. Signed and numbered Patek Philippe, calibre 215, having 48 parts to the time zone complications.

Escapement Free-sprung Gyromax.Condition Case and movement recently serviced

and overhauled in perfect condition throughout. Original Patek Philippe box and papers.

Designed as an international traveller’s watch, indicating both local time and home time, through the clever use of a second hour hand made of gold and a subsidiary 24 hour dial. With simple push button alteration.

66

ROLEX / TUDOR

1900 Hans Wilsdorf settled at La Chaux-de-Fonds as an office clerk, responsible for English-language correspondence for a watch exporter. He subsequently worked for a watch importer in London.

1905 Hans Wilsdorf and an associate founded the wholesale watch business, Wilsdorf and Davis. In Bienne, he signed a contract with Aegler, which gave his firm the distribution rights to Aegler watches in England.

1908 He created his own brand, Rolex. Some say this is derived from the French phrase horologerie exquise, others that it was made up to be easily pronounced in any language.

1910 To counter the view that wristwatches were mere gadgets, Aegler had its watches officially checked by the watch test service in Bienne, and the movements were double-checked at the Kew Observatory in England.

1914 Jean Aegler’s sons renamed their company the Rolex Watch Co. Aegler SA.

To help finance the cost of the Great War, the British Government decided to impose a 33% tax on imports. Wilsdorf transferred his worldwide export business to Bienne.

1920 On 17 January, Wilsdorf founded Montre Rolex S.A. in Geneva, with himself as sole owner and director. Henceforth, the movements were made in Bienne. Assembly, testing and sales were all in Geneva.

1926 The Oyster case: to enhance the water resistance of wristwatches, Wilsdorf registered a patent for a case with screw-down winding crown.

The watch dealer and maker, Philippe Hüther, registered ‘The Tudor’ trademark for Wilsdorf, named after the eponymous English and Welsh royal dynasty.

1927 On 17 October, Wilsdorf strapped a new Rolex Oyster to the wrist of Mercedes Gleitze before the cross-channel swim that she completed in 15 hours and 15 minutes.

1931 Thanks to the talented technician Emil Borer, Wilsdorf introduced an automatic permanent rotor winder, the Rolex Perpetual. He retained the exclusive rights, and prohibited the automatic movement’s use by any competitor for the next fifteen years.

68

1932 The first Tudor watches arrive in Australia.

1936 Wilsdorf takes back the Tudor brand.

1945 Rolex introduced the Datejust, the first automatic water-resistant chronometer wristwatch with date viewer.

1946 Wilsdorf launches Montres Tudor SA for more affordable watches with bought-in movements from Valjoux /ETA.

1953 Launch of the Submariner, the first diver’s watch, water-resistant to 100 meters.

Led by Sir John Hunt, Mount Everest’s conquering team, including Edmund Hillary, were equipped with Oyster Perpetual chronometers.

1954 Launch of the GMT-Master.

1956 Day-Date, the first watch to display the date, as well as the day, in its entirety.

1960 Hans Wilsdorf died in Geneva.

A Rolex Oyster with specially reinforced case was attached to The Trieste, Professor Jacques Piccard’s bathyscaphe, reaching a depth of 10,916m in the Pacific without damage.

1964 Tudor Prince Submariners supplied to the US Navy until 1966. Early 1970s to 1984 Tudor Marine Nationale supplied to the French Navy.

1971 Underwater record of 2,000 feet (610 meters) for the Sea-Dweller 2000.

1980 New underwater record for the Sea-Dweller 4000 – 4,000 feet (1,220 meters).

2000 Introduction of a new, entirely in-house Daytona chronograph/chronometer, (it formerly used a Zenith movement).

2003 50th anniversary of the Submariner, commemorative 50th-year version issued with green lunette known as the 16610LV.

The Tudor Rose & Shield emblem over the years

From c.1926 From c.1936 From c.1947 From c.1969

69

Rolex

A rare vintage rose gold ultra prima manual wristwatch .Circa 1947 £6,950

Dimensions Case width 27mm.Length 40mm.

Case Rectangular 14ct rose gold case with stylised tear drop lugs and polished rolled chamfered frame, having straight sided plexi glass. The rectangular snap on 14ct rose gold back signed Rolex Geneve Suiss RWC Ltd 501268. Fitted to a modern stitched crocodile strap.

Dial The curved 25 × 21mm rectangular cream dial with raised rose gold batons and Arabic numerals at 12, 2, 4, 8 and 10. Having subsidiary seconds dial at 6, and signed below crown Rolex precision, finished by a set of polished gold hands.

Duration 24 hours.Movement The rectangular Swiss-made 17 jewel

ultra prima manual wind movement signed Rolex precision with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and blued steel balance spring. Reference 4519.

Escapement Jewelled lever.Condition Beautifully presented case and movement

recently serviced and overhauled in excellent condition throughout.

70

Rolex

Rare Vintage 1675 El Cornino GMT Master Oyster Perpetual stainless steel wristwatch with small GMT hand and pointed crown guards .Circa 1963 £9,500


Case Stainless steel case with rare pointed crown guards and 24 hour Pepsi GMT bezel serrated Rolex screw back and signed Rolex crown, reference 1041495. Fitted to a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, with signed Rolex Oyster lock clasp.

Dial The 30mm, date, three line gilt black dial with nicely patinated raised luminous hour markers, having polished steel Mercedes hands with luminous infills and central sweep seconds hand, with rare small GMT hand. Being signed below the painted Rolex crown, Rolex Oyster Perpetual and GMT Master Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified written above 6. Having straight edge plexi glass with Cyclops for the date.

Duration 24 hours.Movement The Swiss made automatic movement

signed Rolex, with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and steel balance spring.


some minor surface scratches.

Designed for Pan Am pilots flying through different time zones this iconic watch has remained one of the most important tools in the Rolex history books. Released to the general public in 1954 with its new style bezel replacing the earlier Bakelight version which was easily damaged.

72

Tudor

A vintage Oyster Prince automatic stainless steel wristwatch .Circa 1963 £1,850


Case Stainless steel case with polished inclined bezel, Rolex screw crown, no crown guards with screw back, signed Original Oyster Case by Rolex Geneva. Convex plexi glass. Reference 279302.

Dial The 30mm silvered dial with gilt Arabic numerals, being signed Tudor Oyster Prince below the rose emblem, further signed Rotor Self Winding above 6, with polished blued steel dauphine hands and centre sweep seconds hand.


signed Tudor with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and blued steel balance spring.


some minor surface scratches. With original Rolex signed riveted graduated Oyster bracelet and clasp, original box, papers dated 6/2/1963 and original sales receipt 1967.

74

Tudor

A vintage Submariner Oyster Prince automatic stainless steel wristwatch .Circa 1967 £3,600


Case Stainless steel case with grey/black incised rotating counter bezel, Rolex screw crown having crown guards with screw back, signed Original Oyster Case by Rolex Geneva. Convex plexi glass. Reference 595466

Dial The 30mm patinated black dial with luminous hour dots, being signed Tudor Oyster Prince below the rose emblem, further signed 200m=660ft Submariner and Rotor Self Winding above VI, with further luminous minute markers, polished steel Mercedes hands with luminous infills and centre sweep seconds hand.


signed Tudor with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and blued steel balance spring.


some minor surface scratches. With NATO strap.

76

Rolex

A vintage Oyster Perpetual stainless steel wristwatch .Circa 1974 £2,700


Case Stainless steel case with polished bezel serrated Rolex screw back and signed Rolex screw crown. Fitted to a riveted tapering Rolex Oyster bracelet with signed stainless steel Rolex clasp.

Dial The rare 30mm silvered dial with raised gilt heart hour numerals with luminous dot markers, having gilt hands with central sweep seconds hand. Being signed below the raised gilt Rolex crown, Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust and Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified written above 6. Having calendar aperture at 3 with straight edge Cyclops plexi glass.


signed Rolex, with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and blued steel balance spring, reference 6605.



78

Rolex

A vintage black dial Oyster Date stainless steel wristwatch .Circa 1974 £2,700


Case Stainless steel case with polished steel bezel knurled Rolex screw back and signed Rolex crown. Fitted to a stainless steel Rolex oyster bracelet, with signed Rolex clasp. Reference 6694.

Dial The 28mm black dial with raised polished gold batons with luminous dot markers, having polished gold hands with luminous infills and central sweep seconds hand. Being signed below the raised gold Rolex crown, Rolex Oysterdate and further signed precision above 6. Having calendar aperture at 3, with straight edge Cyclops plexi glass.




some minor surface scratches. Rolex box and papers.

80

Rolex

A vintage blue dial Oyster Perpetual Air King stainless steel wristwatch .Circa 1986 £2,300


Case Stainless steel case with polished steel bezel knurled Rolex screw back and signed Rolex crown. Fitted to a stainless steel Rolex oyster bracelet, with signed Rolex clasp. Reference 5700N.

Dial The 28mm rare blue dial with raised polished steel batons with luminous dot markers, having polished steel hands with luminous infills and central sweep seconds hand. Being signed below the raised Rolex crown, Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King Date. Having calendar aperture at 3, with straight edge Cyclops plexi glass.




some minor surface scratches. .

81

Rolex

A vintage Oyster Perpetual Date-Just white gold and stainless steel chronometer wristwatch .Circa 1987 £2,950


Case Stainless steel case with white gold bezel serrated Rolex screw back and signed Rolex crown, reference 16013. Fitted to a stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet, with signed Rolex clasp. Reference R796891.

Dial The unusual 30mm grey pin strip dial with raised polished steel batons with luminous dot markers, having polished steel hands with luminous infills and central sweep seconds hand. Being signed below the raised Rolex crown, Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust and Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified written above 6. Having calendar aperture at 3, with straight edge Cyclops plexi glass.




some minor surface scratches. With Rolex box.

82

Tudor

A vintage ‘Big Block’ Oysterdate stainless steel automatic chronograph wristwatch .Circa 1990 £3,850


Case Stainless steel case with narrow black tachymeter bezel serrated screw back, signed original Oyster case by Rolex Geneva, with signed Rolex screw crown, with twin lock pushers for chronograph stop/start. Fitted to a stainless steel Tudor Oyster bracelet, with signed Tudor Oyster lock clasp.

Dial The 30mm silvered Panda styled Tritium dial with raised polished steel hour batons and luminous dot markers, having slim blued steel hands with luminous infills and central sweep chronograph seconds. Signed Tudor Oysterdate below the shield emblem. The three black spun subsidiary dials with white hands for constant seconds, hour and minute timers, being signed automatic chrono time above the hour dial. Having raised plexi glass with Cyclops exposing the Arabic calendar


signed Tudor, with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and steel balance spring, reference 300962.


some minor surface scratches. With Tudor box and papers.

84

Rolex

A ladies 18ct gold Oyster Perpetual Datejust wristwatch .Circa 1992 £4,950


Case 18ct gold case with gold bezel knurled Rolex screw back and signed Rolex crown. Fitted to an 18ct gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet, with signed 18ct gold Rolex clasp. Reference 6917/8.

Dial The 21mm silver dial with raised gold batons with luminous dot markers, having polished gold hands with luminous infills and central sweep seconds hand. Being signed below the raised Rolex crown, Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date-Just, further signed below Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified. Having calendar aperture at 3, with straight edge Cyclops plexi glass.




some minor surface scratches. With Rolex box and papers.

86

Rolex

A ladies Oyster Perpetual stainless steel and white gold wristwatch .Circa 1996 £2,600


Case Stainless steel case with white gold bezel knurled Rolex screw back and signed Rolex crown. Fitted to a stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet, with signed Rolex clasp. Reference E945097.

Dial The 21mm rare blue dial with raised polished steel batons with luminous dot markers, having polished steel hands with luminous infills and central sweep seconds hand. Being signed below the raised Rolex crown, Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date. Having calendar aperture at 3, with Cyclops sapphire glass.





88

Rolex

A GMT Master Oyster Perpetual stainless steel wristwatch with original bezel and an aftermarket diamond, ruby and sapphire bezel .Circa 1996 £5,600


Case Stainless steel case with diamond, ruby and sapphire bezel, serrated Rolex screw back and signed Rolex crown, reference S453371. Fitted to a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, with signed Rolex Oyster clasp.

Dial The 30mm, date, 3 line black dial with nicely patinated raised luminous hour markers, having polished steel Mercedes hands with luminous infills and central sweep seconds hand, with red stem GMT hand. Being signed below the painted Rolex crown, Rolex Oyster Perpetual and GMT Master Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified written above 6. Having flat bevel edge Sapphire glass with Cyclops for the date.




some minor surface scratches. Supplied with its original Rolex bezel.

Designed for Pan Am pilots flying through different time zones this iconic watch was released to the general public in 1954. This example being 20 years old benefits from an aftermarket Diamond, Ruby and Sapphire bezel giving it a most contemporary feel.

89

Rolex

A champagne dial Oyster Perpetual gold and stainless steel wristwatch .Circa 1998 £3,900


Case Stainless steel case with 18ct gold incised bezel with serrated Rolex screw back and signed gold Rolex crown, reference 16233. Fitted to a stainless steel and 18ct gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet, with signed Rolex clasp.

Dial The 30mm Champagne dial with raised polished gold batons with luminous dot markers and miniature black Roman numerals to the outer edge, having polished gold hands with luminous infills and central sweep seconds hand. Being signed below the raised gold Rolex crown, Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust and Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified written above 6. Having calendar aperture at 3, with straight edge Cyclops plexi glass.





90

Rolex

A Submariner Oyster Perpetual stainless steel and 18ct gold wristwatch .Circa 1998 £5,200


Case Stainless steel case with black Uni-directional 18ct gold bezel serrated Rolex screw back and signed 18ct gold Rolex crown, reference 16613. Fitted to a stainless steel and 18ct gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, with signed Rolex Oyster lock clasp.

Dial The 30mm four line black date dial with raised banded luminous dot markers, having polished gold Mercedes hands with luminous infills and central sweep seconds hand. Being signed below the gold Rolex crown, Rolex Oyster Perpetual and Submariner 1000/ft=300m superlative chronometer officially certified written above 6. Having flat bevel edge sapphire glass with Cyclops for the date at 3.

Duration 24 hours.Movement The Swiss-made automatic

movement signed Rolex, with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and steel balance spring. Reference 16613.

Escapement Jewelled lever.Condition Case and movement in excellent

condition, some minor surface scratches. With Rolex box and papers.

92

Rolex

A Sea-Dweller Oyster Perpetual stainless steel wristwatchCirca 2002 £4,700


Case Stainless steel case with black Uni-directional bezel serrated Rolex screw back and signed Rolex crown, reference 16600. Fitted to a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, with signed Rolex Oyster lock clasp.

Dial The 30mm four line black date dial with raised banded luminous dot markers, having polished steel Mercedes hands with luminous infills and central sweep seconds hand. Being signed below the Rolex crown, Rolex Oyster Perpetual and Sea-Dweller 4000/ft=1220m superlative chronometer officially certified written above 6. Having flat bevel edge sapphire glass.

Duration 24 hours.Movement The Swiss-made automatic

movement signed Rolex, with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and steel balance spring. Reference 16600.

Escapement Jewelled lever.Condition Case and movement in excellent

condition, some minor surface scratches. With Rolex box and papers.

94

Rolex

A Daytona Cosmograph Oyster Perpetual stainless steel wristwatch .Circa 2004 £7,500


Case Stainless steel case with steel tachymeter bezel serrated Rolex screw back and signed Rolex screw crown, with twin lock pushers for chronograph stop/start functions, reference 116520. Fitted to a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, with signed Rolex Oyster lock clasp.

Dial The 30mm five line white dial with raised banded luminous hour markers, having slim polished steel hands with luminous infills and central sweep chronograph seconds. Being signed below the raised steel Rolex crown, Rolex Oyster Perpetual Superlative Chronometer officially Certified Cosmograph. With three subsidiary steel spun dials for constant seconds, hour and minute timers, being signed Daytona in red below centre and above the seconds dial. Having flat bevel edge sapphire glass.This rare dial with slim hands was made for a period of only four years, after which time the hands were widened and the sub dials moved.





96

Rolex

An 18ct Gold Daytona Cosmograph Oyster Perpetual wristwatch .Circa 2004 £11,000


Case 18ct gold case with gold tachymeter bezel serrated Rolex screw back and signed Rolex screw crown, with twin lock pushers for chronograph stop/start functions. Reference 116518. Fitted to a black leather strap with 18ct gold Rolex Oyster deployment clasp.

Dial The 30mm five line white gold Arabic numerals, having slim polished gold hands with luminous infills and central sweep chronograph seconds. Being signed below the raised gold Rolex crown, Rolex Oyster Perpetual Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified Cosmograph. With three subsidiary gold spun dials for constant seconds, hour and minute timers, being signed Daytona in red below centre and above the seconds dial. Having flat bevel edge sapphire glass.


signed Rolex, with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and steel balance spring, reference 116518.



98

Rolex

An Explorer I Oyster Perpetual stainless steel wristwatch .Circa 2005 £3,500


Case Stainless steel case with polished steel bezel knurled Rolex screw back and signed Rolex crown, reference 114270. Fitted to a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, with signed Rolex Oyster lock clasp.

Dial The 30mm non-date, 2 line black dial with raised polished steel banded luminous markers, with Arabic numerals at 3,6 and 9, having polished steel Mercedes hands with luminous infills and central sweep seconds hand. Being signed below the painted Rolex crown, Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer and Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified written above 6. Having flat bevel edge Sapphire glass.





100

Rolex

A midsize Salmon dial stainless steel Oyster Perpetual wristwatchCirca 2005 £2,900


Case Stainless steel case with inclined polished bezel serrated Rolex screw back and signed Rolex crown. Fitted to a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, with signed Rolex clasp. Reference D943037.

Dial The 24mm Salmon pink dial with raised polished steel Arabic numerals for 3,6 and 9 with polished steel banded luminous batons and polished steel hands with luminous infills and central sweep seconds hand. Being signed below the raised Rolex crown, Rolex Oyster Perpetual , having flat Sapphire glass





102

Rolex

An Oyster Perpetual Date 18ct gold and stainless steel wristwatch .Circa 2006 £3,950

Dimensions Case diameter 34.5mm.Depth 12mm including glass.

Case Stainless steel case with 18ct gold inclined polished bezel with serrated Rolex screw back and signed gold Rolex crown. Fitted to a stainless steel and 18ct gold Rolex Oyster bracelet with signed Rolex clasp. Reference F459757.

Dial The 28mm silver grey dial with raised polished gold Arabic hour divisions for 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 with gold banded luminous markers between, having polished gold hands with luminous infills and central sweep seconds hand. Being signed below the raised gold Rolex crown, Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date and Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified written above 6. Having calendar aperture at 3, with straight edge Sapphire glass and Cyclops.


signed Rolex, with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and steel balance spring. Reference 15203

Escapement Jewelled leverCondition Case and movement in excellent condition.

With Rolex box and papers.

103

Rolex

A Submariner ‘four line’ Oyster Perpetual stainless steel wristwatch .Circa 2008 £4,300


Case Stainless steel case with black Uni-directional bezel, knurled Rolex screw back and signed Rolex crown, reference 14060M. Fitted to a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, with signed Rolex Oyster lock clasp.

Dial The 30mm non-date, 4 line black dial with raised banded luminous dot markers, having polished steel Mercedes hands with luminous infills and central sweep seconds hand. Being signed below the painted Rolex crown, Rolex Oyster Perpetual and Submariner 1000/ft=300m superlative chronometer, officially certified written above 6. Having flat bevel edge sapphire glass.


signed Rolex, with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and steel balance spring. Reference 14060M.



104

Rolex

An Oyster Perpetual Air King stainless steel wristwatch . Circa 2015 £3,500


Case Stainless steel case with incised block mounted bezel with serrated Rolex screw back and signed gold Rolex crown, with spun steel inner bezel secretly signed to the round Rolex. Fitted to a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet with signed Rolex flip lock clasp. Reference M829320.

Dial The 28mm silver dial with matt chapter ring having orange Arabic numerals, polished steel Rolex crown at 12 and applied polished steel numeral at 6. With inner circle signed to the round Oyster Perpetual, with polished engine turned centre signed Rolex Air King, having flat polished steel hands and centre sweep seconds hand, with straight edge Sapphire glass.


signed Rolex, with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and steel balance spring. Reference 15203.

Escapement Jewelled lever.Condition Case and movement in new unworn

condition. With Rolex box and papers.

106

Rolex

A GMT Master II ‘Green line’ Oyster Perpetual stainless steel wristwatch with Cerachrom bezel .Circa 2016 £5,500


Case The 904L stainless steel monobloc case with the latest black Cerachrom ceramic 24 hour GMT bidirectional bezel, serrated Rolex screw back and signed triplock Rolex crown, reference 116710LN . Fitted to a 904L stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, with signed Rolex Oyster lock clasp. The 904L steel originally designed for the aerospace industry, now fully integrated allows for a brighter finish but keeping true to its history of a hardwearing tool wristwatch. The Cerachrom bezel takes over 40 hours to produce using a unique Rolex process to inscribe the numerals and graduations into this super hard material .

Dial The 30mm, date, green and white 3 line black dial with raised luminous hour markers, having polished steel Mercedes hands with luminous infills and central sweep seconds hand, with green stem GMT hand. Being signed below the printed Rolex crown, Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date and GMT Master II Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified written above 6. Having flat Sapphire glass with Cyclops for the date.

Duration 48 hourMovement The Swiss made calibre 3186 automatic

chronometer movement signed Rolex, with jewelled lever escapement, and Paramagnetic blue Parachrom balance spring which allowing for greater resistance to shocks and temperature variations.

Escapement Jewelled leverCondition Case and movement in as new condition.

Supplied with Rolex papers, box, bezel guard and seals.

Originally designed for Pan Am pilots flying through different time zones this iconic watch has remained one of the most important in Rolex history, first released in 1954.

108

Tudor

A Heritage Chronograph automatic stainless steel wristwatch .Circa 2013 £2,300


Case Stainless steel case with engine turned 12 hour graduated bidirectional rotating black bezel, allowing for second time zone. Knurled Tudor screw crown and crown guards, with black tipped chronograph pushers and knurled locks, serrated screw back, signed Tudor Suisse Geneve with flat Sapphire glass. Solid link bracelet with signed Tudor lock clasp. Waterproof to 500ft. Reference 70330N.

Dial The 34mm contrasting black / grey dial with bold luminous hour batons, signed Tudor Geneve below the shield emblem, with grey concave subsidiary dials for constant seconds at 3 with 45 minute counter at 9. White banded minute ring with outer grey band and orange Arabic 5 minute divisions, polished steel hands with luminous infills, with centre sweep chronograph seconds hand in contrasting orange with date aperture at 6.


signed Tudor with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and steel balance spring.


some minor surface scratches. With Tudor bracelet spare black, orange and silver striped NATO strap, box and papers.

110

Roger W. Smith

A unique and important hand-made red gold wristwatch with tourbillon, commission no . 3 .Date 2006 £95,000

Dimensions 41.3mm × 29.18mmCase 18 carat rose gold rectangular case marked

.750 and also the makers mark RwS with glazed back secured with 8 steel screws.

Dial Silver rectangular engine turned dial with gold batons, gold arrowhead hands, two subsidiary dials for date and seconds and signed R.W. SMITH.

Movement The manual wind tourbillion movement with satin finished gilded plates, fully jewelled with Daniels’ revolutionary Co-axial escapement and resilient date calendar complication, signed and numbered Roger W. Smith no. 03 Isle of Man.

Escapement Daniels Co-axial escapement with Tourbillion.

Strap Leather with 18 carat gold buckle signed RW SMITH.

Box Bespoke made and stamped Linley to the rear inner edge, in solid light oak with burr veneer and silver oval, signed R.W. Smith No.3, inset to the top. Containing certificate and leather wallet with adjustment tool.

Roger Smith met Dr. George Daniels in 1987, while studying at the Manchester School of Horology. Smith first learnt of the exclusive world of the handmade watch after seeing George’s masterpiece, ‘The Space Traveller’.After a seven year self-imposed apprenticeship, he was invited to work alongside Daniels on the famed ‘Daniels Millennium’ series of watches. Daniels died in 2011 and Roger, based in his Isle of Man studio, can be considered a worthy successor to the finest watchmaker of his time.

Made for the famous collector, Tom Scott, this watch, number 3, was the first commission Roger Smith completed and thus of considerable historic importance. There is now a seven year waiting list for commissioned watches and they cost in excess of £250,000.

112

ZENITH

1865 The clock maker George Favre-Jacot started to work for himself in Le Locle, Switzerland.

1875 George Favre-Jacot succeeded in his goal: to produce reasonably priced, precise pocket watches. His company employed one-third of the working population of Locle.

1896 Won a Gold Medal at the Swiss National Exhibition.

1903 First prize in the Neuchâtel Observatory competition for chronometers.

1911 George Favre-Jacot retired and left the flourishing business to his descendants, under the name Zenith.

1917 Death of George Favre-Jacot.

1920 The first wristwatch models were produced.

1954 Zenith won the Neuchâtel Observatory prize for wristwatch chronometers.

1960 Zenith took over Martel Watch Co. The Universels calibre 749 and 285 became the Zenith 146.

1969 Birth of the El Primero movement, reputedly the first automatic chronograph in the world.

Zenith became a member of the Mondia-Zenith-Movado holding company.

1970 The Cronometro Tipo CP2 aviation chronographs with anti-magnetic case and 60-minute rotating lunette, manufactured for A. Cairelli in Rome.

1971 The American Zenith Radio Corporation took a majority stake in the Mondia-Zenith-Movado group.

1978 The group returned to the hands of Swiss investors, with DIXI, the financial and mechanical constructions group, as major shareholder.

1984 Movado taken over by North American Watch Co, and the name Zenith appeared alone on the watch dials.

2000 Zenith taken over by L.V.M.H group.

114

Zenith

A vintage midsize manual Staybrite stainless steel wristwatch, made for the Indian sub-continent .Circa 1930s £1,200

Dimensions Case diameter 28.5mm.Depth 9.5mm including glass.

Case Steel case with polished inclined bezel and convex glass, screw back signed Zenith, waterproof, antimagnetic, Swiss made Staybrite steel.

Dial The rare white enamel dial with luminous Arabic numerals, with blued steel cathedral hands and luminous infills, subsidiary seconds dial at 6. Signed below 12 Favre-Leuba & Co, further signed Zenith Swiss Made.

Duration 24 hours.Movement The Swiss made manually wound

movement signed Zenith with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and steel balance spring.


some minor surface scratches. Serviced and guaranteed.

In the early 1900s, a sales and marketing collaboration between the Favre-Jacot family (Zenith) and Favre Leuba of Switzerland took place. Both the families were close, and Henry Favre, who already owned a successful business in Bombay and Calcutta, launched Zenith in the Indian sub-continent, from Afghanistan to Burma.During the long cooperation between the two companies, which lasted until the 1960s, several watches, especially high-class chronometers, were not only designated Zenith but also Favre-Leuba on the dial. A distinguishing feature of the ‘Indian’ Zeniths is that they did not have a star on the crown.

115

Zenith

A vintage ‘bumper’ automatic stainless steel dress wristwatch .Circa 1950s £1,500

Dimensions Case diameter 35mm.Depth 10 mm including glass.

Case The post war polished stainless steel case with flat polished bezel, serrated sunken crown and screw back with convex plexi glass. Reference 9118782.

Dial The 30mm patinated silvered convex dial with rare raised and polished steel broad arrow quarter battons signed below the raised Arabic numeral at12 and star symbol, Zenith automatic with inner dot minute markers having polished steel hands and centre sweep seconds hand.

Duration 24 hours.Movement The Swiss made calibre 133 automatic

bumper movement signed Zenith with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and steel balance spring. This early automatic movement has a weighted arm, which has a swing of 130 degrees as opposed to the more modern rotor, which has a rotating action of 360 degrees. The term bumper derives from the sound of the absorbing spring that the weighted arm or pendulum touches or bumps against.



116

Zenith

A vintage midsize manual stainless steel wristwatch .Circa 1960s £1,100


Case The midsize post war polished stainless steel case with Zenith crown and screw back with convex plexi glass. Reference 200D866

Dial The 26mm black convex dial with Arabic numerals and luminous dot markers having white hands with luminous infills and centre sweep seconds hand. Signed Zenith below 12.

Duration 24 hours.Movement The Swiss made manually wound

movement signed Zenith with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and steel balance spring.



Although founded in 1865, the name Zenith was not truly adopted by the company until 1911. The name referring to the highest point reached by a heavenly body in the sky and thereby symbolising the heights of excellence to which the brand, with its guiding star, has been aspiring ever since.

117

Zenith

An Elite automatic stainless steel dress watch .Circa 2000 £2,200


Case Stainless steel case with polished inclined bezel and convex sapphire glass, Zenith crown with signed snap-on sapphire glazed back. Reference 01/02.1125.680.

Dial The 33mm silvered convex dial with raised polished steel Arabic numerals for alternate hours with raised polished batons between, being signed below 12 Zenith Elite, further signed automatic above 6, with polished blued steel hands and subsidiary seconds at 9.


signed Zenith with jewelled lever escapement, compensated balance and polished steel balance spring. Calibre 680.


some minor surface scratches. Signed polished steel mesh bracelet with secret clasp, with original box.

118

Alarm: A device that sounds at a pre-set time.

Altimeter: A device that determines altitude by responding to changes in barometric pressure.

Analogue Display: A display that shows the time by means of hands and a dial.

Analogue Watch: A watch with a dial, hands, and numbers or markers that present the time. Analogue digital refers to a watch that has both a digital display and hands of a conventional watch.

Aperture: A small opening on the dials of some watches in which certain indications are given (date, hour etc).

Automatic Movement: A mechanical movement that requires no winding because the rotor, part of the automatic mechanism, winds the mainspring every time you move your hand.

Auto Repeat Countdown Timer: A countdown timer that resets itself as soon as the preset time has elapsed and starts the countdown again. It repeats the countdown continuously until the wearer pushes the stop button.

Balance Spring: A very fine spring (hair spring) in a mechanical watch that returns the balance wheel back to a neutral position.

Balance Wheel: The part of a mechanical watch movement that oscillates, dividing time into equal segments.

Barrel: A cylinder containing the mainspring of a watch, the toothed rim of the barrel drives the train.

Bezel: The ring that surrounds the watch dial.

Bidirectional Rotating Bezel: A bezel that can be moved either clockwise or counterclockwise. These are used for mathematical calculations or for keeping track of elapsed time.

Bracelet: A type of watchband made of elements that resemble links.

Bridge: Complementary part fixed to the main plate to form the frame of a watch movement. The other parts are mounted inside the frame.

Cabochon: Decorative stone which has been carved into a round shape.

Calendar: A feature that shows the day of the month, and sometimes the day of the week and the year.

Calibre: A term often used by Swiss watchmakers to denote a particular model type.

Cambered: Often used in referring to a curved or arched dial or bezel.

Case: The metal housing of a watch.

Case Back: The reverse side of a watch case that lies against the skin. May be transparent to allow viewing of the inner workings of the watch or be solid. Most manufacturers engrave case backs with their name, water and shock resistance, case metal content and other details.

Chronograph: A stopwatch or timer that can be started and stopped to time an event. There are variations which can perform many different functions, such as determining speed or distance. Some chronographs can time more than one event at a time.

Chronometer: A precision timekeeper that is tested in various temperatures and positions, thus meeting the accuracy standards set by an official institute.

Co-Axial Escapement: Invented c.1974 and patented in 1980 by watchmaker Dr. George Daniels, the Co-axial escapement is a modification of the lever escapement with some features of the detent escapement. The co-axial escapement functions with a system of three pallets that separates the locking function from the impulse, avoiding the sliding friction of the lever escapement. This makes lubrication of the pallets unnecessary and thereby eliminates one of the shortcomings of the traditional lever escapement.

Complication: A watch with other functions besides timekeeping, including: minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar or split second chronograph.

COSC: The official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute that puts every chronometer through a rigorous, 15-day testing procedure to verify the watch’s precision.

A SHORT GLOSSARY OF WATCH TERMS

120

Countdown Timer: A function that lets the wearer keep track of how much of a pre-set period of time has elapsed.

Crown: Button on the outside of the case that is used to set the time and the calendar, and, in the mechanical watches, to wind the mainspring.

Day/Date Watch: A watch that indicates not only the date but also the day of the week.

Day/Night Indicator: A coloured or shaded band on a world time that shows which time zones are in daylight and which in darkness.

Deployment Buckle: A type of buckle that pops open and fastens using hinged, often adjustable, mechanism.

Depth Alarm: An alarm on a diver’s watch that sounds when the wearer exceeds a pre-set depth.

Dial: The watch ‘face’. Although many are one piece, sometimes the numerals, indices and surface designs are applied as separate elements, which may be engraved or printed.

Digital Watch: A watch that displays the time using digits rather than a dial and hands.

Direct-drive: A function that allows the second-hand to advance in intervals rather than a smooth sweep for more precise timekeeping.

Dual Time: A watch that measures current local time as well as at least one other time zone. The additional time element may come from a twin dial, extra hand, subsidiary dials, or other means.

Elapsed Time Rotating Bezel: A graduated rotating bezel used to keep track of periods of time, it can be turned to align the zero on the bezel with the watch’s seconds or minutes hand to read the elapsed time off the bezel. This saves having to perform the subtraction that would be necessary otherwise.

Engine Turning: Decorative engraved patterns using a special engine or lathe.

Escapement: Device in a mechanical movement that governs the rotation of the wheels by a fixed amount and thus the timekeeping and motion of the hands.

Ébauche: An incomplete watch movement consisting of plates, bridges, wheels, and barrels to be finished and fitted with jewels, escapement, mainspring, hands, and dial.

Fly-back Hand: A hand on a chronograph that can be used for timing, which returns (flies back) to zero at the press of a button.

Gasket: a seal for the case backs, crystals and crowns to protect against water infiltration during normal wear.

Glass or Crystal: The transparent cover over the watch dial made of glass crystal, synthetic sapphire or plastic.

Gold plating: A layer of gold (usually by electro-plating) that has been deposited onto a metal; its thickness is measured in microns.

Grande Sonnerie: A type of repeater that sounds the hours and quarter hours on pushing a button.

Guilloche: A pattern made by interlacing curved lines.

Integrated Bracelet: A watch bracelet that is integrated into the design of the case and cannot be replaced with a strap.

Jewels: Synthetic sapphires or rubies that act as bearings for metal pivots in a mechanical watch, reducing friction.

Jump Hour Indication: Takes the place of an hour hand, often by means of a numeral that ‘jumps over’ on the hour within an aperture.

Lap Timer: A chronograph function that lets the wearer time segments of a race. At the end of a lap, the timer is stopped, it then returns to zero to begin timing the next lap.

Liquid-Crystal Display: A digital watch display that shows the time electronically by means of the liquid held in a thin layer between two transparent plates.

Lugs: Projections on a watch case to which the watch strap or bracelet is attached.

Main Plate: Base plate on which all the other parts of a watch movement are mounted.

Mainspring: The driving spring of a watch contained in the barrel.

Manual Wind: A watch wound by hand, using the crown.

121

Marine Chronometer: Highly accurate mechanical or electronic timekeeper used for determining the longitude on board ship.

Measurement Conversion: A feature, usually consisting of a graduated scale on the watch’s bezel, that allows for the translation of one type of measurement into another – such as miles into kilometres or pounds into kilograms.

Mechanical Movement: A plated movement with mainspring, wheel train and escapement, which is wound by hand or automatically.

Military or 24-hour time: When time is measured in 24-hour, rather than 12-hour, segments.

Moon-phase: An indication within a watch dial that shows which phase the moon is in.

Movement: The inner mechanism of a watch, either mechanical or quartz.

Pedometer: A device that counts the number of strides taken by the wearer, responding to the impact of the wearer’s steps.

Perpetual Calendar: A calendar that automatically adjusts for the months’ varying length and for a leap year.

Power Reserve: The amount of energy ‘stored up’ to keep a watch running until it stops, with the remaining power indicated on the dial.

Pulsimeter: A scale on a chronograph watch for measuring the pulse rate.

Quartz Crystal: A tiny piece of synthetic quartz that oscillates at the rate of 32.768 times a second, dividing time into equal segments.

Quartz Movement: A movement which allows a watch to keep time without being wound. This technology employs the vibrations of a tiny crystal to maintain timing accuracy, the power coming from a battery.

Repeater: A device that sounds the time when the wearer pushes a button.

Rose (or pink) Gold: A red gold that contains the same metals as yellow gold but with a higher concentration of copper in the alloy. A popular colour in Europe, rose gold in watches is often seen in retro styling or in tricolour gold versions.

Rotating Bezel: A bezel that can be turned, different types of rotating bezels perform different timekeeping and mathematical functions.

Rotor: The part of an automatic watch that winds the movement’s main spring.

Sapphire Crystal: A crystal cover that protects the watch dial, made of synthetic sapphire, it is transparent, shatter and scratch-resistant.

Screw-Lock Crown: A crown that can be screwed into the case to make the watch watertight.

Shock Absorber: Resilient bearing which is intended to take up the shocks received by the balance staff and thus protects it.

Shock Resistance: As defined by US government regulations, a watch’s ability to withstand an impact equal to that of being dropped onto wood floor from a height of 3 feet.

Skeleton Case: A case with a transparent front or back that allows the wearer to view the watch’s movement.

Slide Rule: A device consisting of logarithmic or other scales, on the outer edge of the watch dial, that can be used to do mathematical calculations.

Solar Compass: A compass that lets the wearer determine the geographical poles by means of a rotating bezel and the sun’s direction.

Split Seconds: Two hands, one a flyback, the other a regular chronograph hand and, when started, both hands move together, the wearer can stop the flyback hand independently while the regular chronograph hand keeps moving.

Stainless Steel: An extremely durable chromium steel alloy that is resistant to rust, discolouration and corrosion; it can be highly polished.

Staybrite Stainless Steel: Staybrite is a trademark steel that became synonymous for quality in the watch industry. In use for over 80 years for various grades of chromium-nickel steel alloy, the trademark has been owned by; Firth Brown; British steel and, latterly, F W Hempel & Co.

Sterling Silver: Silver that is 92.5 percent pure, usually stamped on the metal, sometimes accompanied by a hallmark, mark of the designer and/or the country of origin.

122

Stopwatch: A watch with a seconds hand that measures intervals of time. When a stopwatch is incorporated into a standard watch, both the stopwatch function and the timepiece are referred to as a ‘chronograph’.

Swiss Made: A watch is considered Swiss if its movement was assembled, started, adjusted and controlled by the manufacturer in Switzerland.

Swiss A.O.S.C. (Certificate of Origin): A mark identifying a watch that is assembled in Switzerland with components of Swiss origin.

Sweep Seconds Hand: A seconds hand that is mounted in the centre of the watch dial.

Tachymeter: A device on the chronograph watch that measures the speed travelled over a measured distance.

Tank Watch: An iconic rectangular watch designed by Louis Cartier in 1917, apparently inspired by the tracks of tanks used in the Great War.

Telemeter: A telemeter determines the distance of an object from the observer by measuring how long it takes sound to travel that distance. Like a tachymeter, it consists of a stopwatch, or chronograph, and a special scale, usually on the outermost edge of the watch dial.

30-Minute Recorder (or register): A subsidiary dial on a chronograph that can time periods of up to 30 minutes.

Timer: Instrument used for registering intervals of time without any indication of the time of day.

Titanium: A ‘space age’ metal, with a silver-gray appearance. Because it is hypoallergenic, stronger and lighter than steel it has been increasingly used in watchmaking. Its resistance to salt water corrosion makes it particularly useful in diver’s watches. Since it can be scratched fairly easy, some manufacturers use a coating to counter this.

Tonneau Watch: A watch shaped like a barrel, with two convex sides.

Totaliser: A mechanism that keeps track of elapsed time and displays it, usually on a subsidiary dial.

Tourbillon: A device, patented by Abraham Louis Breguet in 1801, that aims to counter the effects of gravity by mounting the escapement and balance wheel in a rotating cage, which moves continuously at a slow rate, typically once per minute.

Tritium: An isotope of hydrogen that is used to activate the luminous dots or indices on a watch dial. The radioactivity released in this process is too slight to pose a health risk.

Uni-directional Rotating Bezel: An elapsed time rotating bezel, often found on divers’ watches, that only moves in a counter-clockwise direction. Designed to prevent a diver from overestimating his remaining air supply. Because the bezel moves in only one direction, the diver error can only be on the safe side. Many divers’ watches are ratcheted, so that they lock into place for even greater safety.

Vibration: Movement of a pendulum or other oscillating element, limited by two consecutive extreme positions. The balance of a mechanical watch generally makes five or six vibrations per second (i.e. 18,000 or 21,600 per hour), but that of a high-frequency watch may make seven, eight or even ten vibrations per second (i.e. 25,200, 28,800 or 36, 000 per hour).

Waterproof: A misused term, no watch is fully waterproof.

Water Resistance: Unless specified to a particular depth, a water resistant watch can handle only light moisture, such as a rain or sink splashes, but should not be worn swimming or diving.

White Gold: Created from yellow gold by incorporating either nickel or palladium to the alloy to achieve a white colour, most white gold is 18k.

Winding Stem: The arbour attached to the winding crown on a watch case, used to wind the mainspring.

World Time Dial: A dial, usually on the outer edge of the main dial, that tells the time in up to 24 time zones around the world. The time zones are represented by the names of cities on the bezel or dial. The hour in a particular time zone is read by looking at the scale next to the city that the hour hand is pointing at, the minutes are read normally.

123

32A THE SQUARE, WINCHESTER, SO23 9EX

TEL: +44 (0)1962 844443

[email protected] www.cartermarsh.com

carter marsh co

Documents