T obacco is a product made from the dried leaves of common tobacco plants. Tobacco is native to

Central America and the habit of smoking this plant dates back at least 3,000 years. Tobacco was then called «petum», and it was either chewed, snuffed (sucked through the nose), or smoked using a pipe called «The Peace Pipe». It was in 1492 that tobacco arrived in Europe, through Christopher Columbus. In perfumery, tobacco absolute is obtained by extraction with volatile solvents, of the different varieties of tobacco. Today, and because of nicotine, the use of absolute tobacco is limited. Tobacco has rich and varied aromas. Tobacco sublimates many perfumes today. The aromatic force is the main characteristic of tobacco notes, which we find in different olfactory families

such as woods and ferns. Tobacco, however, offers other notes such as honey, almond, wax or even leather. Mainly present in men’s perfumes, tobacco brings a certain elegance to the compositions. He nevertheless sublimates some perfumes for women, for their greatest pleasure… Everyone knows about tobacco. Its culture has existed for a very long time. In perfumery, we use tobacco absolute. Tobacco offers compositions, its particularly rich aromas. It also has an incomparable aromatic strength, which has earned it a presence in many men’s fragrances. Thanks to its different facets, tobacco blends very easily with woody, chypre, oriental, floral, fruity, citrus or even aromatic notes. Tobacco turns out to be, in perfumery, a real Ali Baba’s cave.

CUIR AFFINÉ

TOBACCO

I f the scents fresh and full of dynamism are very appreciated on hot summer days, the trend is however

very different in winter. Indeed, this season often pushes us towards comforting products with rather autumnal flavors. Thus, hazelnut is listed as one of the flagship ingredients. The hazelnut is the fruit of the common hazel. It is also called oatmeal and also designates by metonymy the seed contained in this fruit and which is edible. The hazelnut is a shell with a woody pericarp and containing a single seed occupying its entire cavity. This part is what we eat. Today, Turkey is the world’s leading producer and exporter. Hazelnuts are grown there on the shores of the Black Sea, in the northeast

of the country. Nevertheless, Italy is the second producer in the world, far ahead of France which ranks ninth. Hazelnut is used in many ways. Its almond is eaten as dried fruit and can also be grated into powder or shavings for pastry or confectionery. Similarly, when pressed, it produces an edible oil but prone to rancidity. In perfumery, the hazelnut is, however, fully reconstituted by the perfumer. Its oil is nevertheless used in cosmetics. The hazelnut brings to the perfumes which contain a green note, slightly woody, at the same time sweet and greedy. Perfumers particularly like it for its roasted, praline-like flavor.

HAZELNUT

T he «suede» accord is an imaginary note created by perfumers. It is a note at the same time suave

and velvety which modernized the leather chords which already existed. The smell of the suede accord comes either from the secretions of musk deer which contain muscone, or from the tactile evocation of the skin on the suede, which is found to be softer and softer than leather. The smell of this suede accord is similar to that of the glandular secretions of musk deer. The musk fallow deer lives on the Tibetan plateau in Central Asia. The musk deer is very well known and especially hunted for the secretion of musk produced by its gland, itself

very appreciated in perfumery. The suede accord is subtle and racy and incorporates the greatest fragrances. Musk is no longer used this way, and hunting has become prohibited. The small Asian cervid has become a protected species. Musk deer is now reproduced in the laboratory in a scientific manner. Musk deer offers a wide range of scents, woody, floral, animal, but also powdery and fruity. The suede accords blend wonderfully well with oriental, woody or chypre scents replacing the old leather notes. The suede accord is softer, more subtly.

SUEDE LEATHER