Established in – 2003Specialized in – export of readymade garmentsBusiness turnover (annual ) – 100 crores Director – Dheeraj jha General manager –Manju WaliaProduction manager –Bishan SinghTotal covered area-1500 sq kmTotal working force- 700

Product – Ladies casual and urban wear ( in a-28 ) Fabrics – All wovens and knitted especially viscose georgette ,poly

chiffon ,silk ,prints and embroidery ,poly lazor satin ,silk ,poly knitted ,etc.

Units – a-26, a-28 (sec-7),c-13, w-14 ,e-80 (sec -6) Buyers:-

Various departments in the apparel production industry :-

Production planning and control Sampling department R&D department I E department Quality assurance department Fabric and accessories departments Embroidery department Spreading and cutting department Stitching department Finishing and packaging department Shipping dept

PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL

Job or Task Scheduling Material Resource Planning (Inventory) Loading production Process selection & planning Facility location Estimating quantity and costs of production Capacity planning Line planning Follow up and execution

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

Samples that are made in development stage are as following - Proto Sample FIT sample Salesman samplePurchase order comes after approval os salesman sample only. Size set Sample Pre-production Sample

In production stage factory need to submit few more samples that includes

Top of Production Sample Shipment Sample

Average is found. (i:e fabric consumption in one garment by which merchant calculate total demands of fabric for the entire order ).

R& D and IE DEPARTMENT Increasing the production of a company with minimizing the cost. Various tasks performed are:-

Line balancing. To check that product if it is production feasible or not before sending final approval to buyer

Calculating thread consumption. Time study. Creating operation breakdown. Find out SMV. No. of machine Helpers required To find out the efficiency of the individual operator and line.

Calculating daily efficiency of the unit. Co-ordination with PPC for improving the efficiency. Fix the target production. Decide the type of machine and work aids attachment required for

particular operation.

QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT

QA is the systematic monitoring and evaluation of the various aspects of a project, service or facility to maximize the probability that standards of quality are being attained by the production process.

Two principles included in Quality Assurance are: "Fit for purpose", the product should be suitable for the intended

purpose, and "Right first time", mistakes should be eliminated.

Quality Assurance includes regulation of the quality of raw materials, assemblies, products and components, services related to production, and management, production and inspection processes.

Functions of quality assurance department:-

Pre-production Audit: In this stage auditing is mainly done for the stages which come before the production and that is the sampling stage..

Cutting Audit Spreading pattern notches (accuracy of patterns)

Sewing audit In line audit: Here the garments are checked during their different stages of

manufacturing . End line audit :-Here the garments are checked after the entire process is over

and the specifications are mainly based on the dimensions of the garment at the critical positions and then the placements of the labels.

INSPECTION AND TESTING Garment inspection Here some of main fabric properties that are taken into consideration

for garment manufacturing for export basis: Overall look of the garment.Right formation of the garment.Feel and fall of the garment.Physical properties.Colour fastness of the garment.Finishing propertiesPresentation of the final produced garment.

There are certain quality related problems in garment manufacturing that should not be over looked:

Sewing defects - Like open seams, wrong stitching techniques used, same colour garment, but usage of different colour threads on the garment, miss out of stitches in between, creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges are some sewing defects that could occur so should be taken care of.

Colour effects - Colour defects that could occur are difference of the colour of final produced garment to the sample shown, accessories used are of wrong colour combination and mismatching of dye amongst the pieces.

Sizing defects - Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of a garment part from other, for example- sleeves of XL size but body of L size. Such defects do not occur has to be seen too.

Garment defects - During manufacturing process defects could occur like faulty zippers, irregular hemming, loose buttons, raw edges, improper button holes, uneven parts, inappropriate trimming, and difference in fabric colours.

Trims inspection -Like garments, trims are not checked for 100%. Quality inspector only needs to confirm that bulk trims are sourced as per required standards .

Trims are normally being checked against standards on the following parameters. Shade matching Shrinkage Color bleeding Width and thickness Strength Number and size Fiber content Text content/font/language in labels and tags

FABRIC AND ACCESSORIES DEPARTMENT

Sourcing regions Suppliers of trims:-

Zipper (ykk brand) – jankson (okhla) , sai impose (govindpur) Zipper (tex brand) – tex carbo ltd (gurguaun) Button (polypol button ) -govindpur dealers Shell button (spila brand) – ultimate dealers ,repotex from Bombay Lace – k.gyanchand in sadar market Needle – rajasthan inter gross dealor

Supplier of fabrics:- Polyster – sarvodaya textiles ,balaji textiles ,gulmohar in surat Cotton –bhivandi They order for Yarn dyed in goindpur dealers mainly

Fabric and accessories department is divided into tthree sections:-

Fabric reconciliation

Fabric reconciliation is a process that is used to do fabric analysis. It means how the total purchased fabric is used by a factory. What percentage of the fabric is actually used to make garments, what percentage of the purchased fabric is left after shipment as dead stock, and how much fabric is lost as wastage.

EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT

In apparel manufacturing unit; embroidery is special types of task. It is done according to the buyer requirement

Process Flow of Embroidery: Embroidery is done according to the following sequence in a A.S .FASHIONS .PVT .LTD

At first designed the buyer design by CAD software ↓ The design software install into the machine ↓ The fabric clamped by the clamp board ↓ Then run the machine until finished the design ↓ Then the fabric collects for delivery

SPREADING DEPARTMENT

Objects of Fabric Spreading: To place the number of fabric plies to the length of the marker plan correctly

aligned as to the length and width. To cut garments in large scale and saving fabric through the use of multi

garments marker plan and the saving in cutting time per garment that result from cutting many piles at the same time.

To make every ply flat and plane. At correct tension. Cutting spread are classified by three factors. T he linear factor of the material

The direction of the material surface with respect to the cutting table surface

The direction of the surface nap or design with respect to the ends of tread.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT A cutting department of a garment manufacturing unit includes

following sub-processes Fabric relaxation Fabric spreading / layering on cutting table Marker making Cutting - manual cutting (using scissors), machine cutting, automatic

cutting. Numbering of garment plies (parts) Shorting and Bundling Inspection of cut components Shorting of printed and embroidery panels Re-cutting of panels Fusing garment components

Example of one style in as fashion ( for spreading , laying and cutting):-Style no-646130 , colour –index 163In one lay there are 200 layers( and even one lyer in one lay in single jersey that curls at edges ) .

SEWING DEPARTMENT Sewing department is the heart of a manufacturing unit. Cut

components are assembled in sewing department in assembly line. Manufacturing system used – PBS List of sub-processes those are done in sewing department includes.

Making garment parts Sewing full garment Making garment accessories like dori, tabs, cords etc. Checking of stitched garments Alteration work of defective garments

Pre sewing functionsBefore the actual task of sewing begins, there are certain other tasks that have to be taken care of which can be termed as fabric handling functions-

Ply separation; Placing the fabric on working table; Guiding the fabric towards sewing needle; and tension control of fabric during the sewing process. Planning of sewing process: Sequence of seams to be stitched is

determined before the sewing starts. Which part will be joined first, what stitches will follow one another, etc. are decided. However, some stitches have to be necessarily done before or after another stitch.

Sewing FabricsThe sewing process consists of mainly three functions-

guiding fabric towards needle; sewing of the fabric edge; and rotation around the needle. Significant Aspects of Sewing Thread tension and consumption: Correct balancing of the stitch and the

tension given to the threads is very important for quality stitch formation. Thread consumption, which is closely associated with correct stitch.

Presser- foot displacement and compressing force: If this system is not efficient then it results into irregular seams and many other defects, especially when running on high speed.

Needle penetration force measurement -Needle penetration force is one of the variables whose measurement is important for the analysis of quality problems or "sewability testing" and also quality monitoring

FINISHING AND PACKGING DEPARTMEENT Washing of garment Buttoning and button holing Thread trimming Checking of washed / unwashed garments Stain removing by tipol ,spotter. Ironing or Pressing Final checking of garments after ironing Mending / repair work ( ex- hand embroidery work and buttoning that

breaks in washing ) Tagging Folding and packing

EXPORT DEPARTMENT This department is responsible for export related

documentation ,dispatching goods to ports, and communicating with buyers warehouse and distribution centre.

Different types of price quotation in export trade Ex-factory or local Price quotation -This type of quotation represents

the simplest arrangement. The importer is presumed to have bought the goods right at the exporter’s factory. All costs and risks from thereon become the buyer’s problem. The ex-factory.

Free Alongside ship (FAS) price quotation-The use of this term in the quotation means that the exporter to be responsible for the goods until they are placed alongside the ship. All charges incurred up to that point must be borne by the seller. F.A.S. price is slightly higher than the ex-factory price, since the exporter undertakes to transport the goods to the point of shipment.

F.O.B. (Free on Board) Price Quotation-F.O.B. Price includes actual placement of goods abroad the ship. The F.O.B price will includes F.A.S. price plus costs of shipping and boarding on ship.

Ex-ship Price Quotation: This means that the exporter agrees to meet all expenses to forward the goods to destination port of the importer. But the expenses towards taking delivery of the goods from the port authorities and expenses to be incurred thereafter will be met out by the importer.

Duty paid Price Quotation or Delivery Duty-paid Quotation: Under this, the exporter bears complete responsibility for the delivery of goods at a particular destination in the importer’s country. He makes arrangement of taking delivery of the goods at the foreign port, pays necessary duties/taxes and handling, and provides for further inland transportation in the importers country.

SOFTWARES ERP :- “Technosoft “ is the erp used in a.s. fashions .pvt.ltd .This

software is in use since 2013. Various usages of erp are:- Accounting – In accounting it is used to keep record of all expenses

and profit . Logistics Updates of each departments It has made easy to get all informations ( ex- in which stage is style ?,

how many expenses are going in respective departments ) of a style just by selecting style no .

CAD:-“Tukacad” is the cad used by a.s.fashions . It is user friendly . tucacad provides online facility also for grading and marker making. Various usages of CAD are:- it provides the facility of PGM ( pattern making , grading , marker

making ) waste% is low in cad . very less time in sample making

a.s.fashions use cad in pattern making and grading not in marker making because the order they get are mostly single jersey ,chiffon ,poly chiffon , weightless georget in which which width vary in each plies but printout of cad marker can’t adjust in varied width .

MERCHANT Merchandiser is the BRIDGE between the industry and the

buyer. He has to look after every job like buying the raw material which

is required to finish the product, making the garment, finishing the garment, documentation, finally shipping. He is the responsible person to make the product.

Merchant is a trader, an exporter or importer of a garment he is basically a employee of a vendor’s company who is being responsible to the buyer and coordinate the full manufacturing process of garment right from getting the order, approving the design, ordering fabric, cutting, production and up to the shipment of the order i.e., he is the whole sole of the company.

Core responsibilities of merchants are:-

Internal & external communication, Sampling, Lab dips, Accessories & trims, Preparing internal order sheets, Preparing purchase orders, Making cost sheet Advising and assisting production, Advising quality department about quality level, Mediating production and quality departments, Giving shipping instructions and following shipping, Helping documentation department, Taking responsibility for inspections and Following shipment.

SPECIALLY FOCUSED AREA

Project title- To increase productivity by reducing lead time Project duration – 7 weeks Project mentor- Ms Aboli Naik Background-In a world where timeline is everything ,on time time

delivery becomes a critical component of each success story to meet customer requirement.

The Indian garment industry has a major problem in the recent economical scenario.

I analyzed the lead time in a.s fashions pvt.ltd and tried to find out where the waste exists so that it can be eliminated .

Objectives- To be able to understand the delays and its causes and propose a system by which delays can be curtailed

Methodology :- In start three weeks I did work study of cutting ,embroidery and

stitching and finishing department and found that are as follow:- In stitching department ,I observed that in start 15 days of

manufacturing :- Needle stoppage was there .( off standard time was there) Rate of mostly operator was 80 only . While in reverse in last 15 days of production there were:-

Least off standard time Rate of mostly operators was almost 100

In the next 4 weeks I came to the actual cause behind ” off std time “and low rate in stitching department and suggested a solution that was also implemented.

After analyzing and talking with operators and supervisors I came to know that

The causes behind the problems were:- Line Balancing was done once in a day only, where as in the style

where only 5 days of manufacturing were left supervisors had to report production manager after every 1 hour and then accordingly rebalancing was done.

Operators wanted to do overtime and so they did not pay attention in daily clock time and they can get overtime only when the schedules go behind .

They did not have target to stitch fixed amount of garments in a day .

After talking with production manager and analyzing the style of which only 3-5 days were left to go I came to the solution that are as follow :- Supervisors should take work reports even in start 15 days of

manufacturing after every 3 hours and balance the operators then if required.

Give targets to operators and offer money reward to whom who do more than the target once in a week.

I gave the problems and solutions to production manager and to production planning control department and they approved this ,but made changes in bonus scheme

.

This system was applied in other style of which production was in initial stage

Findings (In 30 days of manufacturing):-Reduce three days in sewing since the rate of operators were 100 even in

start days of manufacturing.

Conclusion:- Almost in every garment industry they are facing the problem of late

deliveries of goods . By reducing lead time (specially in stitching department ) we save time in particular order and can deliver few days earlier which also saves inventory .

THANK YOU !