apparel internship

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A Report on Apparel Internship

Bachelor of Fashion Technology (Apparel Production)

Submitted By

Anurag SinghAvinash kumar

Under the Guidance of

Mr. Saurabh Chaturvedi

Department of Fashion Technology, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kangra , 2015

ABSTRACT

Through critical and deep study, this report examines the type of Apparel production system that are used in apparel industry of India. It shows the analysis and comparison of production systems with respect to cost, quality and productivity. Since the production of Apparels mainly depends upon the production system, its selection needs to be done carefully.

This report is an effort of the students of Bachelor of Fashion Technology (B.FTech.), National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kangra. It talks about functions of Creative Clothex, prevalent in Noida, UP.

This study is based on the analysis of the handling time required to complete all the operations related to apparels, this also focuses on the positive and negative aspects of apparel industry. It demonstrates that the industry has made significant process towards comprehending the necessity of proper production system which has implications on the overall productivity of an apparel industry.

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CERTIFICATE

“This is to certify that this Project Report titled “Apparel Internship” is based on our i.e. Anurag Singh and Avinash Kumar’s original research work, conducted under the guidance of Mr. Saurabh Chaturvedi towards partial fulfilment of the requirement for award of the Bachelor’s Degree in Fashion Technology (Apparel Production), of the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kangra. No part of this work has been copied from any other source. Material, wherever borrowed has been duly acknowledged.”

Signature of Students

____________________

_______________________

Mentor

Name – Mr. Saurabh Chaturvedi

Associate professor

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kangra

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Acknowledgement

We would like to add a few heartfelt words for the people who helped us to complete this project.

We wish to express our gratitude to everybody who has assisted us in the learning process during this internship. There are many to whom expression of gratitude is inevitable, but there are some special people who have to be given prominence, without whom we would not have reached the conclusion of this project so quickly and efficiently. We wish to thank our Course Coordinator and mentor, Mr. Saurabh Chaturvedi for providing this wonderful opportunity and encouraging & motivating us.

No amount of Gratitude is adequate for Mr. Mohit Singhal, Managing Director, Creative Clothex, for his consent in allowing us to conduct our internship in their esteemed company.

We are grateful to Ms. Tanushree Mitra, Head PPC Department for providing us with all facilities required during our internship period.

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CONTENTS

Sl. No. Topic Page no.1 Introduction 062 Company profile 073 About Company 084 Creative vision 095 Creative social responsibilities 096 Key strength 107 Product range 108 Major buyers 129 Company hierarchy 1310 Organization hierarchy 14

Department study11 Merchandising 1912 Sampling 3213 CAD 3714 Fabric sourcing 3915 Fabric stores 4216 Purchase 4517 Trims and accessories store 4918 IE 5319 Accounts 5920 Human resource management 6121 Production planning & control 6622 Production 8823 Finishing and packaging 10624 Maintenance 109

Projects 13525 Project - 126 Introduction 13627 Objective 13728 Process flow 13829 Data collection 13930 Capacity study 14131 Observations & Suggestions 14932 Layout study 15033 Results 15934 Project - 235 Introduction36 Problem definition & methodology37 Identification of defects by DMAIC process38 Define phase39 Measure phase40 Analyze phase

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41 Improve phase42 Control phase

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INTRODUCTION

As per our course curriculum fourteen weeks internship is mandated, which aims practical understanding of various processes related aspects of the industry. Internship enables students to get a better understanding of a company, and also gaining knowledge on its functioning.

We have chosen to pursue our internship at Creative Clothex at Noida, Uttar Pradesh. As this company is India’s largest manufacturer for Adidas Group in the domestic market. In compilation of this Internship report, all our efforts have been made to present a comprehensive picture of the activities undertaken at Creative Clothex.

OBJECTIVE OF INTERNSHIP

Gain in-depth knowledge of the working of the industry in terms of

Organization structure Infrastructure Material & manufacturing process Departmental study Quality control CSR

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COMPANY PROFILE

Name: Creative Clothex , Noida Established: 1997Owner: Mr. Mohit Singhal Address: A-1 , Sector 59, Noida, Uttar PradeshWork Force: 550Capacity: 50,000 – 60,000 garments/monthAnnual Turnover: 35 crore

About Company

The company was formed in 1997 with a vision to cater to the ever growing domestic and overseas markets and since then the company has been quite active in the domestic market and has now started exports as well. Since its inception the company has been producing knitted and woven garments for the top international and domestic brands present in the domestic market

At Creative, our focus is to service our customers and enable them to grow with us. We understand that each customer is different, and needs specialized attention. Our focus has always been on our customers’ expectations and their highly specialized individual needs.

Our goal is to win our customers trust and confidence through our reliability, so we can develop long-term programs and alliances.

We are fraternity in search of excellence in the product that we make, whom to sell, whom we buy from and how we deal with each other. We work for the Sake of Excellence. In all that we do we are guided by A sense of Fairness, A sincerity of Purpose and Empathy towards all.

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Creative Vision

Be Number one, in providing Whole Life value to our people so as to nurture their individual potential and aspirations and synthesize them towards creating an Organic Organization .

To be Number one, in delivering Value to our clients, with state of the art Apparel Manufacturing Facilities and world class services in India. We define value as the composite of price, Quality, Quick response, Reliability and Newness.

We firmly believe value can be created only if we forge a trust based network of relationships, both with clients and suppliers, with complete transparency and common vision based on the principle of equitable sharing of gains, so that all energies can be focused on the product and service. In doing so, adopting a Participative Mode, rather than a Linear Mode of working.

Creative Social responsibility

At Creative, We believe in fair employment opportunities for one and all and providing necessary infrastructure and a healthy and safe work environment to all. We have been following Adidas Standards of Engagement manuals and have been an Adidas approved factory for labour compliance and Health and Safety compliance.

In Addition to this we are ourselves dedicated in providing good work environment to all our workers. In the end we can sum up by saying that Creative is continuously gearing itself to deliver a more value-added, wider range of finished products. Driven by the ever growing needs of our customers in terms of newer fashions, fabrics, colors, styles …we constantly create new synergies …blending our strengths and creative ideas for faster deliveries and reducing costs by enhancing quality and improving productivity.

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KEY STRENGTHS

Creative Clothex is one of the largest manufacturers for Adidas group in India. Creative Clothex is one of the most successful professionally managed

companies in India. Well qualified trained and committed professionals with a shared vision. Highly qualified Design team, Product development skills. All Department and offices are electronically linked to facilitate all time access to

information Focus on quality and a proven track record.

PRODUCT RANGE

They are one of the distinguished manufacturers and suppliers of sports range of ladies wear, kids wear and men’s wear. Products includes:-

Sports Jackets

Sports Shorts

Sports T- Shirts

Track Suits

Track Pants

Sweatshirt

MAJOR BUYERS

The Company has its own active brand named AURRO and AEGLE.

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COMPANY HEIRARCHY

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OWNER

HEAD OPERATIONS

MERCHANDISING HEAD

SENIOR MERCHANTS

JUNIOR MERCHANTS

SOURCING HEAD

FABRIC SOURCING

TRIM SOURCING

LOGISTICS MANAGER

DOCUMENTATION ASSISTANTS

HEAD ADMINISTRATION

HR MANAGER

COMPLIANCE MANAGER

ADMIN OFFICEER

FINANCE HEAD

CASHIER HEAD ACCOUNTS OFFICER

AUDITOR

DIFFERENT DEPARTMENTS IN COMPANY

1. Marketing and Merchandising

2. Sampling

3. CAD

4. Fabric sourcing

5. Fabric store

6. Purchase

7. Trims & accessories store

8. Account

9. Human Resource Management

10. Production planning and control (PPC)

11. Factory IED

12. Production

13. Maintenance

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MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

A merchandiser is an interface between the buyer and the supplier who has to ensure the quality

of production and timely delivery. Merchandising is a process through which products are

planned, developed, executed and presented to the buyers. It includes directing and overseeing

the development of product line from start to finish.

ROLE OF THE DEPARTMENT

To look for the appropriate market

To get the samples made according to the buyer’s specification

To estimate and quote the cost of the garment to the buyer and negotiate with them

Getting orders

Constant interaction with the buyer for the approval

To get the fabric and trims in-house for bulk production

Coordinating with the PPC and production

OBJECTIVE OF MERCHANDISER

To create market

Understanding buyers’ requirements

Sourcing of materials, fabrics

Select the range

Creating the product

Taking buyers approvals

Negotiation with buyer

Procuring the orders

Materializing the order

Execution the order

Coordination between production and production planning department

Dispatching the shipment

After shipment dispatching merchandiser is also responsible for buyer claims, profit and subsequent orders. If buyer has any problem in quality of the product then it is the responsibility of the merchandiser to resolve the problem with the buyer.

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ACTIVITIES OF MERCHANDISING SECTION

1) ORDER CONFIRMATION AND FOLLOW UP:

This department is the main link between the factory and the buyers. The buyers rely on

the merchandisers to provide them with the information regarding the capacity available,

the style feasibility and the setting up of delivery dates for the shipment.

This process involves receiving the initial order details from the buyer’s representative

and communicating through E-mail and telephonic conversations.

The merchandising team keeps the buyer updated about all the developments taking place

regarding the order.

The order booking and the order confirmation details are received by the merchandising

team who further transfers this information to the other departments.

2) PREPARATION OF BILL OF MATERIALS:

The merchandising team receives the details of all the style features in the particular

order. This also includes the following :

Fabric quality details

Thread Details

Finish Details

Accessories like beads, sequins, laces etc.

Prints and Embroidery

Trims like buttons, zippers

Wash care labels

Size labels

Brand labels

Packing Material details

Hangtags

Besides receiving this information from the buyer, the merchandisers also receive the

Fabric consumption per garment for each size from the sampling section, Thread

consumption per garment from the Planning department and the accessories requirement

per garment from the sampling department.

Based on this information received, the merchandiser prepares a Bill of Materials (BOM).

This has the complete details of the requirement of all the parts going into the making of

the garment. Each of the material is stated above is mentioned per garment.

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3) COORDINATING THE SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT PROCESS:

The merchandising department plans and coordinates the activities of the sampling

department.

The sampling section is given the TECHPAK which contains all the relevant details.

The samples to be made are planned in the merchandising department and the plan is

given to the sampling section.

The samples are sent to the merchandising department for initial approvals according

to the spec sheet provided by the buyer. The nsamples are sent to the buyer for

approvals only when they are approved by the merchandising department.

The sampling department is also informed by the merchandising about the types of

samples required by the buyer.

The merchandiser receives the buyer comments for all the samples and makes it sure

it is informed to the sampling and the necessary changes made in all the required

areas.

4) INTERPRETING THE TECHPAK / TECHNICAL FOLDER PROVIDED BY THE

BUYER:

The Technical Folder/Tec pack is the reference for each department whenever it comes to

any information about the buyer requirements. The buyer states all his requirements in a

very precise manner which is contained in this document. The following are the common

details which are found in the Technical Folders of all the buyers:

Size wise quantity

Color Wise Quantity

Destination wise quantity

Dispatch dates for all the lots and the quantity for the lots

Total Order quantity

Cutting Details

Construction Sheet

Finishing and Packing Details

Specification Sheet

Measurement Chart

Fabric Details

a. GSM of all the types of fabrics used in the garment

b. Fabric construction

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Total Cost

Accessories

Trims

Embroidery

Packaging

Fabric Cost

Washing

Cut Make Cost

Zipper

Buttons

Threads

Labels

Size Label

Wash Care Label

Company Tag

c. Fiber types

d. Fabric width

e. Fabric/garment finish type and hand feel description

f. Buyer nominated supplier (in certain cases)

g. Fabric Swatch

Trims Details

a. Button Size

b. Threads used

c. Thread tkt no.

d. Labels details

e. Trims Swatches

Accessory Details

COSTING

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COSTING SHEET

The costing sheet is the addition of all the costs involved in the making of the garment and then

it is coated to the buyers. It contains per piece and the total cost (of all the pieces). It includes the

details like, cost of fabric, trims, washing, embroidery, sampling, testing, freight, duty, insurance

etc.

Basic costs while calculating costing are -

1. Factory costs

2. Trim costs

3. Yield costs

4. Cost of embroidery

1. FACTORY COST: - Factory cost includes cutting cost, making cost , packing cost. It

depends basically on the style. The complex the style, higher the rate proportions.

2. TRIMS COST: - Trims can be both local and imported. Imported trims can be duty free

or otherwise. It includes label cost, accessories cost, button cost, Zipper cost, washing

cost etc. Trims cost is taken including wastage. The nominated supplier of trims of Pearl

Global Ltd. Is AVERY DENNISON.

3. YEILD COST: - It is an estimation of average consumption of fabric. It is decided by

preparing a mini marker which includes wastage of fabric due to laying, cutting, fabric

defect, end cutting loss, marker loss. Average of 10% extra margin is taken.

4. COST OF EMBROIDERY: - Cost of embroidery includes the machine depreciation

cost, and it is proportional to the number of stitches used. The time taken from the

coming of the order to the day of shipment is 2-3 months. Basically this is the total

processing time of the sample from approval of the sample. 45 days are kept by the

merchandiser for the production. Embroidery cost for one logo of Adidas group is 6 rs. /

Unit. Fabric is the main cause of delay so merchandiser keeps few days for the safer side.

The merchandiser also coordinates with the Production Planning department, Quality

department, Fabric department, Production department, Finishing department, washing

department. The merchandiser also to keeps a track of the styles and make sure

everything moves as per order on time.

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MANUFACTURING COST

The manufacturing costing is done according to the assumed SMV which is given by IE viz. if

the garment SMV is 6 min then actual manufacturing cost will be 60 i.e. 9-10 mark up is

multiplied with SMV. The cost which is charged from buyer is 200 by adding 25% profit.

Costing is done–

I. Style-wise Costing

In pre-cost, includes actual fabric cost, trims cost and value added cost like handwork, artwork,

add a work, embroidery etc.

Production Cost + Raw material Cost + Contribution

Pre-Cost

The costs involved in each process are –

Stitching cost/piece + 25%

Cutting cost

Finishing cost

Direct Cost (Manpower Department wise)

Indirect Cost (Sub Department)

Overheads (Plant+ M/c rent+ Electricity+ Water + Fuel)

MERCHANDISE COST

When pattern master prepared the pattern and the sample is made according to the pattern. Then

mini- marker is prepared in CAD and average costing is being done.

The average costing is done by below formulae-

{Total length + margin (5cm)} * {Total width + Margin (5cm)}* GSM/ 10000 = A

A/no. of pieces = Total cost of the garment

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Merchandise prepared the costing sheet including factory cost, Trim cost, Yield Cost and embroidery cost. Then the costing sheet is send to the buyer and if the cost satisfies the buyer then only order of that product is given.

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

OBJECTIVES OF THE DEPARTMENT

The sampling department is one of the most important departments and it plays a vital in the

uplifting of a unit. Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the merchandising and

production department. Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when produced in

bulk and to check whether there are any discrepancies in the pattern are made according to the

buyer’s specification.

Merchandiser procures order from the buyer. The buyer sends spec sheet, sketches, fabric details,

embellishment details, stitch type etc to the merchandiser. Merchandiser files this information

along with the details regarding costing, average, proto, fit, correction, size set and approval in to

a style package and hands it over to the Sampling department head.

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TYPES OF SAMPLES

Proto Sample

Salesman sample(SMS)

Fit Sample

Pre Production Sample

Size Set

TOP Sample

Shipment Sample

FUNCTIONING OF THE DEPARTMENT

Sampling is the product development stage. It is a process by which a small number of garments

are made so as to match the buyer requirement and to get approval from the buyer so as to start

off the production. The sampled garments represent the accuracy of the patterns and quality of

production skills and techniques. The samples not only serve the purpose of communicating

correctly with the buyer regarding their styles and products, but it also helps to calculate the

fabric consumption along with that of thread and other accessories used.

It is different from bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled. This department makes

samples on the basis of specifications and requirements sent by the buyer in the tech pack.

Proto Sample

Buyers give either a specification sheet which is called Tech pack or only sketches and mention

the age group of the users and define the styles. If buyer demands the samples on substitute fabric

then it is send to buyer on substitute fabric along with costing. The costing part was done by

merchandisers. On the basis of costing merchandisers negotiate with buyer. Proto sample is sent

for confirmation of style and looks of the garment. Once proto sample is approved by the buyer

then the fabric, colour, trims etc. are also decided.

Salesman sample(SMS):

This sample is made so as to cover all the color and size options of the style but the fabric color

may not be exactly matching with the required color. The sample need not be of the exact fit.

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Fit Sample:

While fabric and trim ordering is happening, simultaneously the sample approval procedure is

also underway. The moment a style is selected it goes to the tech department for fitting. Here

models wear the samples and they are evaluated in terms of fit, construction, measurement. The

buyer then sends out comments, which are called as fit comments. In case another sample is

requested the factory makes the same incorporating the comments and send again to buyer. This

process is called fit cycle. Different customers have different no of fit cycles.

PP Sample:

Once the fit sample is approved the factory makes a PP (Pre-production) sample. This can be

called by different names such as sealer sample, green tag sample etc. This sample is sent out the

buyer for final approval and once approved becomes the final sample on the basis of which entire

production is made and audited. This is the most important sample and one should take care that

everything on this sample is correct as this then becomes the standard.

Once PP sample is approved the next step is to make a SIZE SET. All the fit samples and the PP

samples are in the medium size, now the medium size is these are then graded into the different

sizes as per the purchase order. But this all activity of size-set is done in the pre-production

execution department after the pp approval.

Size Set sample:

This sample is made in all the sizes. It is done to check the fit of all the sizes. Fabric and trims

need not be as required for actual production.

THE DETAILS ATTACHED TO THE GARMENT SAMPLE

After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable).

Ref no., Color Fabric :Composition Description Quantity Style no/ Size

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Machine details

There were a total of 20 machines in the sampling department.

10 operators

14 SNLS without UBT, 2 Overlock, 2 Kansai(waistband elastic attachment & stripes attachment, 1 buttonhole m/c, 1 flatlock

1 cutting table

1 quality check table

2 pattern making tables

14 racks for patterns

CAD DEPARMTENT

GARMENT EXPORTS has its own CAD department for varied style garments are made with

help of Richpeace software package.

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FUNCTIONS OF CAD ROOM

CAD department is responsible for the following functions:

Determining cutting average for costing

Making the most efficient cutting marker

Development and alteration of patterns

Development of size set pattern by grading

Digitizing the pattern

BASIC WORKFLOW

Firstly the merchandiser sends the following documents to the CAD room:

Approved style sheet and spec sheet containing all the measurements.

Graded measurement spec sheet.

Fabric detail sheet containing information like fabric form

(Open roll or folded form), roll size, GSM, type of fabric, style no, vendor, buyer etc.

PROCESS CHART

DIGITIZING

Digitizing is a process of implementing the pattern of a particular style which are fed into the

computer system by using a digitizer and specially designed cursor for computerized marker

making. The paper patterns are placed on digitizer with the help of magic tape. The care must be

taken while placing the pattern on the digitizer board. The pattern should be free from any folds

and the grain line of the patterns should be parallel to x-axis. Pattern information such as an

order name, pattern description, and grain line are fed into the system. Every corner of the

pattern is traced by the cursor so as to get the exact shape of the pattern. Once all the information

is correctly fed into the system, then only the computer software accepts the particular pattern

and saves it on the system. These digitized patterns are thus ready for grading.

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Digitizing Grading Order and Processing the Marker

PlotterMarker Making

GRADING

Grading means the stepwise increase or decrease of a master pattern pieces to create larger or

smaller size. The starting point can be the smallest size or the middle size. Grading alters the

overall size of a design but not its general shape and appearance.

ORDER AND PROCESSING OF MARKER

Pattern information is put. Models are formed by grouping and lay limits are set.

PLOTTING

The marker is printed with the help of Gerber plotter and spread on top of the lay. This helps in

recognition of garment parts after cutting.

MARKER MAKING

Marker is the best possible arrangement of all pattern pieces in the available width of the fabric

so has to utilize minimum fabric and reduce fabric wastage. All the required information is fed

into the system by the digitizing. The patterns are ready for marker making. Individual pieces

can be moved around the screen using a mouse, to produce an optimized layout the system is

programmed to calculate material utilization i.e. efficiency and cutting waste. Before making the

final marker, a combination of pattern arrangements, in a given width, are made so as to achieve

maximum efficiency.

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PROCESS FLOW

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Receive patterns

Digitize pattern to feed in

Pattern correction

Pattern grading

Cut ratio planning

Marker planning according to the cut plan ratio

Send to cutting room for cutting

Send to merchandiser for costing

Pattern sent to merchandiser for sampling

WORK FLOW IN CAD

DEPARTMENT

Output to Graphtec plotter

Output marker to plotter

Output mini marker to

printer

FABRIC SOURCING DEPARTMENT

The company is sourcing 90% of its fabric from mills in Taiwan and Hongkong which include all kind of Polyester fabrics, Nylon fabrics, and Cotton Polyester fabrics. We are sourcing fabrics with quick dry finishes, water resistant finishes, Water Proofing finishes, etc. The Company is equally competent in sourcing branded accessories like buttons, zippers, zipper puller, patch labels etc. from Taiwan and Hongkong. We also add value to the garments by the way of embroideries and prints and have dedicated factories doing the same for us. We firmly believe in making our company a one stop shop for all kinds of sportswear products from a basic t-shirt or shorts to something as complicated as Hi Tech Jackets.

OBJECTIVES OF THE DEPARTMENT

Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its merchandise i.e. fabric will be obtained. It works in co-ordination with the merchandising department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within the scheduled time and cost. A fabric sourcer must have knowledge about all varieties of fabric in order to execute their function effectively

FUNCTIONING OF THE DEPARTMENT

STORAGE

Location system of storage is followed i.e. fabric packages are stored in two areas

(a) Checked fabric and

(b) Unchecked fabric.

Such system maintenance of the store makes it easy to locate the fabric whenever needed in future.

FABRIC ISSUE

The fabric store issues the fabric for cutting on challan. All fabric is not issued at one go; instead it

is issued as required. The challan contains information regarding style no, color, buyer’s name, and

quantity to be issued and issued for which production unit.

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FABRIC STORE

Fabric Store maintains the fabric coming from the suppliers. It enters the data regarding the

inward and outward movement of the fabric in the specified quantity, both to and from the

departments.

It stores the fabric in such a way so as to make the identification of the fabric rolls easy and the

person issuing the rolls does not waste time searching for them. They also receive the unused

fabric not required any further from the production floor. Their responsibility is to maintain the

fabric till a suitable time, because the same fabric can be used to create samples for the buyers in

case the fabric meets the required quality. As soon as the fabrics are received by the stores, each

roll is checked for width and length is mentioned in the reports. In case of large variance between

the mentioned width and the observed width, the supplier is informed.

Fabric receiving in the store

Fabric deliver schedule from merchandiser

Fabric In-house

Fabric Un-loading

variance in qty report(if applicable)

Width checking report

Inspection sorting report

Goods Receive note to merchandiser

Rolls Allotted with roll card and allotted to racks with bin cards

Inspection

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Fabric Inspection

Centre to Selvedge Variation

Fusing Shrinkage & Bonding Strength

Heat Shrinkage

Shade Batching for the whole lot

Stocking of inspection rolls to the allotted racks

Fabric issue

Fabric Requisition Slip from cutting

Fabric Issue

Rements received from cutting with OCR

Stocking of remenents

Tracking method followed in the stores:-

Currently the system being followed is that of using a BIN CARD. All the details mentioned in

the Bin Card are filled up in the card and the card is stuck on each roll of fabric. This is in the

form of a hard paper sheet pre printed with all the parameters. Each roll can be distinctly

identified by having a look at the Bin Card. Whenever any person is sent to issue a roll, he just

has to read the basic details mentioned on the card. The fabric is stacked in the racks according

to buyer.

Records maintained in the stores

1. Packing List from the supplier:- This Report consist of the fabric received details with the

invoice quantity, color details, etc

2. Goods Received note copy: - This is made by the fabric store in charge and sent to the

merchandiser on the receipt of the fabric and one copy keeps with him.

3. Width Inspection Report: - On the receipt of fabric with of each roll is checked and a

report id maintained.

4. Stock Report: - This report is maintained as a soft copy for the details of the stock present

in the fabric store and updated time to time.

5. Fabric Inspection Report: - This Report is maintained in the stores for the inspection of

the fabric.

6. Fusing Shrinkage Report: - This report is maintained for the Fusing shrinkage of the

fusing received.

7. Width Checking Report: - This report is maintained for the width checking of the fabric

received.

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8. Inspection Sorting Report: - The rolls which are to be inspected for the whole lot are

sorted and its details are maintained in this report.

9. Heat Shrinkage Report:-This report is maintained for the heat shrinkage of the fabric

received.

10. CSV Report: - Centre to selvedge inspection is done and maintained in this report.

11. Shade Card: - This is made for the shade batching of the lot.

FABRIC INSPECTION

In GARMENT, four point grading system is followed in the fabric audit department. All fabrics

are inspected under the 4 point inspection system. Penalty points are assigned based on the

standard fault size for every type of fault and chalk marks are then put for the identification of

serious defects in the subsequent process.

Fault description under the 4 point inspection system:

LEVEL POINT

0-3 inches 1

3-6 inches 2

6-9 inches 3

Over 9 inches 4

Here the fabric acceptable level is maintained at:

30 points per 100 sq yards for mill made/ imported fabric.

40 points per 100 sq yards for power loom fab

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The fabric length of the roll piece is checked and compared against length declared by

supplier.

For every fabric order one meter of fabric is kept aside for lab testing and quality

standard reference randomly.

The inspection results are then filled in goods inspection reports (GIR).

The GIR reports have following categories:

There is a space in the bottom for “Remarks”; where whether the roll is acceptable or rejected is

specified.

The fabric is issued for cutting, if both Lab & Audit reports are O.K. However, the

cuttings are kept for reference.

INSPECTION INSTRUCTIONS

The width is checked and average width is mentioned.

The fold length is checked and the average is mentioned.

The reed is checked and +/- 2 threads is acceptable.

Centre to selvedge color variation is not acceptable.

For the bowing level is checked for by the following set acceptance levels:

WIDTH LEVEL

Up to 44 inches 1” acceptable

45 to 60 inches 1.5” acceptable

60 to 72 inches 2” acceptable

MACHINE DETAILS: RAMSONS CHECK MATE

Type R 501

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POINTS/100 SQ. YARDS

THAN CLASSIFICATIONACCEPTED BELOW

40 POINTSREJECTED ABOVE 40

POINTS

Power input 1 Ø , 220 v, 50 HzPower output 3 Ø, 220 v, 50 HzGear motor 1 hp, 100 rpm.

Power consumption 0.75 kw

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Receive fabrics

Start

Conduct shrinkage test on minimum 2 bits/bale or minimum 10 bits of consignment

Forward one meter of each consignment for lab test

Verify whether quantity received match with quantity ordered

Inform to stores and prepare goods received note (in case of imported fabric)

Inspection based on four points system. Match bulk with approved dye lot, width of fabric etc.

Name shade lot as ABC

Send to merchant for buyer’s approval

If approvedForward to cutting dept.

End

Reject lot

If No

If No

If No

If Yes

If Yes

If Yes

PROCESS FLOW OF FABRIC STORE

PURCHASE DEPARTMENT

Objective of the department

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The purchasing department is similar to the sourcing department but the main difference is that the sourcing department works for sourcing the fabrics alone while the purchasing department works for sourcing the accessories and trims. However, the working procedure is the same

Functioning of the department

The merchandisers give the techpack and the BOM (Bill Of Materials) for a particular style to the purchasing department and the concerned person will start the further process and for costing purposes the in-house price is given like, the cost involved in the production and also the price involved for a unit involved with respect to the complete procedure involved for its production. In the process of doing the in-house price, suppose the cost of 100 pieces of button is Rs.32 then a Tax of 2% + 14% of excise duty + 10% of per unit price is added as the transportation charges and this all together makes the in-house price (a hidden margin of 5% is also taken into consideration).

This breakup is given to the merchandiser by the purchasing department for the costing purpose, the cost sheet is made by the merchandisers and the order is confirmed by the buyer based on the cost sheet given by the merchandiser.

After the order is being confirmed by the buyer the merchandiser will sit with the other concerned departments and then the exact quantity required and the breakup of the trims and accessories with respect to color, size, MOQ, etc., will be given by the merchandiser to the purchasing department in the form of a sheet which is generally followed in the industry for all the orders irrespective of the buyer.

Once the purchasing department receives this format, then the PO is sent to the concerned department for accessories and trims. Once the first shot of the raw materials is sent by the supplier then the lab dips is done and is approved by the buyer.

After receiving the goods from the supplier they are checked for the quantity and also checked according to the inspection criteria specified by the buyer and replaced if any of them are not meeting this criterion. This department also keeps in track of all the quantities received in-house timely. The goods are generally received in breakups as suggested by the merchandiser according to the requirements stated by the planning and the production department and this breakups will have specified date and quantity and if this breakups is not being mentioned then the order is being placed with the supplier several times for small quantities and PO’s have to be sent all the time so, in order to overcome this a breakups are being is given.

Then the purchase department has to follow up with the supplier for deliveries as and when the merchandiser asks for the new set of the materials for that particular style and then the department also has to maintain the receipts and also they have to maintain the documents of the inspections that are being carried out for those materials.

33

TRIMS & ACCESSORIES STORE

The acceptance of the raw materials or the accessories is generally done in terms of documents

i.e., whatever it may be whether acceptance and revival whenever they are done they are done

according to the documents that have been received from the merchants and also the department

also makes the document for anything they carry out within their roof.

The department first receives a PO copy from the merchants, which the merchants would have

sent it to any one among the three above mentioned supplier types. As soon as the accessory

department comes to know about the date on which they will receive that particular material they

will make a note of it in their ERP that they will be receiving that material.

Once the material reaches the stores on the prescribed day and date the concerned person verifies

the materials against invoice/ Delivery Challan and packing list which they would have received

from the merchant as already stated.

After it is confirmed that the received materials is according to the documents then they carry out

a quality inspection and this inspection is carried out irrespective to the type of the buyer. The

company carries this inspection as per AQL standard 1.0 for all the types of goods received.

34

AQL quantity chart:

Lot size or quantity being audited Inspect Accept

less than 151 8 0

151-280 20 0

281-500 32 1

501-1200 32 1

1201-3200 50 2

3201-10000 80 3

10001-35000 125 5

35001-150000 200 7

150001-5000000 315 10

500000-above 500 14

After inspecting the materials for the quality as per AQL then the allocation of trims done based

on the nature of the item.

Then the department prepares the GRN (goods receipt notes) according to the materials received

and against the documents received obtained from the merchants and they also do the bill entry.

The bills whatever they enter is been forwarded to the accounts department for the payments and

to fulfill other formalities and a copy of it is also given to the sourcing department in order to

inform them about the materials in-housed.

After this the department has to carry out two processes hand-in-hand they are,

Sub contracting: In this method they prepare the work order and also the delivery

challan and then they keep all the documents and also forward the trims along with the

document for processing.

Production issues: Another thing that they have to do is identify trims which has been

approved by merchants and then prepare the delivery challan and keep the trims ready to

35

Start

Accept & receive materials against documents

Prepare PRE GRN

Verify materials against invoice/ Delivery challan & packing list

Carry out quality & quantity inspection as per AQL 1.5

Allocation of trims based on the nature of the item

Prepare GRN & do the bill entry. The same is forwarded to accounts for payment

SUB-CONTRACTING PRODUCTION ISSUES

Prepare work order

Prepare delivery challan

Forward trims along with documents for processing

Identify trims which have been approved by merchants

Prepare delivery challan & keep trims ready to issue to the factories

Materials to be issued after inspection by security against DC

Material outward

issue to the factories. Materials to be issued after inspected by security against DC as

already mentioned.

TRIMS & ACCESSORIES STORE PROCESS FLOW

36

IE DEPARTMENT

Objective of the department

The IED department has to work with many other departments as this department gives the entire idea of the garment construction and the thread and trims consumption criteria, operators skill level categorization and other related aspects hence they play a vital role in determining the cost of producing a single piece of the garment and they also calculate the cost of the factory for that particular style of garment.

Functioning of the department.

The IED department helps the planning department to know the time required for the production of that particular style of the garment by calculating the SAM value for it and they also help in knowing the capacity of the factory based on which the planning department takes a decision if they have to proceed with the item or no.The IED calculates the SAM value for the garment, calculates the productivity of the given style for the initial costing and also calculates or counts the accessories consumption by the style and gives all these details to the merchandising department for the costing purpose because the entire costing criteria depends on these aspects and the IED also gives the merchants suggestions regarding the reduction of the cost of manufacturing the garment by modifying any of the steps and the method of doing it.The IED people prepare the style bulletin which includes the different types of seams and stitches that has to be done for the garment and it also includes the length of the seams and the types of stitches that has to be carried out at different places of the garment as per the buyer’s specifications and approval. Types of thread (which is the TEX), area of placement of the trims and accessories and its location different kinds of labels that are supposed to be placed, the criteria under which the finished garment has to be checked, the times at which the inspection has to be carried out will also be mentioned in the style bulletin, this bulletin will be similar to the Tech Pack but contains more technical data than that.

This department will analyze and estimate the manpower and their skill level which is required for the production of the garment, they also set a target to the batch for an hour, for a shift and for a month which will help them to maintain their outputs and also helps in timely completion of the order or sometimes earlier. They will also give the target to each operator based on his/her capacity and skill in order to help them finish their piece of work on time and also maintain the quality of their work.

After setting the targets for a batch and also for each operator then they will calculate the efficiency. This efficiency is purely based on the daily output of the batch as well as the single operator and then they come up with the monthly output by the particular batch.

This department maintains a file which is the DPR (Daily Production Report), in this report they update the batch number, style/item number, actual output, committed output, SAM value of the garment (both actual and that particular days SAM value), total production till date, average efficiency of the batch till date, peak efficiency achieved, if the company was working that day

37

or not, if there was a delay of production then the reason behind it, information about the batch setting prior to the mass production, etc., all this will be mentioned in this DPR.

Based on the operator’s performance which would have been observed for a specified period of time, the department will allocate a grade to the operator which is as follows.

Skill type GradeA Highly skilledB SkilledC Semi skilled

The operators for each batch are taken in a ratio of,20% - Highly Skilled25% - Skilled 55% - Semi skilled

This is done irrespective to any style and buyer and the complication of the style. A record is maintained in which the skills of operators are updated on timely bases. Because of maintaining this record they keep in track of the operator’s skill and his efficiency, working method and after a particular span of time they update the record.Suppose a new operator joins and he is completely unaware of stitching then a training for about 45 – 50 days is given to him/her and then based on their learning and grasping capacity a grade is been allocated to them primarily. Suppose the operator/new employee knows or has a previous work experience in a garment industry then he is just been asked about his job which he/she would have done in the previous factory and then he/she is just given an hour’s test to know his skills and then grade is been allocated.

Every day the IED team there will be a meeting where in which they speak about the maintenance of efficiency of the batch in the production floor. They also conduct a production review meetings with the operation team in which they discuss about the line and the operation carried out in the batch suppose the previously planned flow is not giving the estimated efficiency and output then they will think of changing the line plan and review it and later follow the right one.

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PROCESS FLOW OF IED

39

Pre-production activities

Production department

Training new trainees

Preparing operation bulletin

Calculate accessories consumption

Fixing grade of operators

Hourly production tracking

Reducing bottleneck operations by proper line

balancing

Capacity study

Efficiency calculations

Start

End

ACCOUNTS DEPARTMENT

Under administrative direction, plans, organizes and directs the company’s Finance and

Administration Department; also serves as Treasurer; provides highly responsible Administrative

staff assistance to the General Manager; and performs other related work as required.

This department is responsible for company-wide finance and related administrative support

services. Areas of program responsibility include, but are not limited to, accounting, budgeting,

financial planning and reporting, debt management, cash management, purchasing, information

systems, liability insurance and customer service. This class is distinguished from other

department management classes by its overall responsibility for directing financial and

administrative services.

This department reports to the General Manager.

TYPICAL DEPARTMENT TASKS –

1. Develops, plans and implements goals and objectives for the finance and administration

department, prepares and administers internal policies and procedures relating to departmental

program activities; interprets and explains applicable rules, laws and regulations to supervisors

and others.

2. Directs, oversees and participates in the departmental program work plan; assigns work

activities, finance and administration projects and programs; monitors work flow; reviews and

evaluates work products, methods and procedures; implements needed work process and

automation improvements and methods for improving customer service.

3. Manages the preparation and maintenance of a variety of financial records and reports,

including those related to the general ledger, accounts payable, accounts receivable, payroll, job

costing, inventories, budgets and fixed assets; ensures the purchasing of materials, supplies and

equipment are conducted in accordance with company policies and procedures.

4. Oversees preparation and presentation of the annual budget; supervises data gathering and

financial planning work associated with rate setting; prepares rate analyses.

5. As Treasurer, oversees cash management, investment, and debt management activities.

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6. Coordinates departmental activities with other departments and divisions; provides responsible

advice and counsel to the General Manager, and department and division managers on a variety

of financial and administrative issues; oversees the maintenance of departmental records and

files; administers liability claims and property insurance programs.

7. Manages information technology support services for the company including installation,

maintenance and upgrade of both mainframe and network based applications pursuant to an

information technology master plan; through user groups and other means, explores

opportunities to improve efficiency and productivity through user friendly information

technology enhancements.

8. Conducts financial reviews of company operations and activities and report’s findings and

recommendations to the General Manager and Board of Directors; serves as liaison with external

auditors and coordinates their activities on behalf of the company.

9. Attends Board of Director and Board Committee meetings; prepares and presents staff reports

and agenda items for consideration by the Board; serves as advisor to the General Manager and

Board as to financial planning and administration.

10. Coordinates preparation of the annual budget request for the finance and administration department; reviews staffing, equipment, and supply needs based upon recent trends and planned.

41

HUMAN RESOURCE MANAGEMENT

Human Resource Management (HRM, HR) is the management of an organization's employees.

While human resource management is sometimes referred to as a "soft" management skill,

effective practice within an organization requires a strategic focus to ensure that people resources

can facilitate the achievement of organizational goals. Effective human resource management

also contains an element of risk management for an organization which, as a minimum, ensures

legislative compliance.

Human resources management involves several processes. Together they are supposed to achieve

the above mentioned goal. These processes are usually performed in the HR department, but

some tasks can also be outsourced or performed by line-managers or other departments. When

effectively integrated they provide significant economic benefit to the company.

Workforce planning

Recruitment

Skills management

Training and development

Personnel administration

Compensation in wage or salary

Time management

Employee engagement activities

Personnel cost planning

Performance measuring system

CSR(Corporate Social Responsibility)

42

PROCESS FLOW OF FACTORY HR DEPARTMENT

43

Training

Compensation and Benefits

Recruitment and Selection

Welfare

Exit Formalities

Compliance

Industrial Relations

Public Relation

PROCESS FLOW OF HUMAN RESOURCE DEVELOPMENT

44

Start

HR Planning

Recruitment and Selection

Training and Development

Performance Managemen System

Compensation and Benefits

Exit

Legal

Administration

Production planning and control (PPC)

The planning department has the responsibility of converting the orders booked by the merchant,

to the production team for the easy execution of the order. Based on the TnA and the availability

of the line the PPC team allocates the order on the production floor as which process has to be

done at what time. The production is done in the section system with front, sleeve, collar, cuff &

back as the preparatory section and one assembly section. The operators are dedicated to the each

operation as per the capacity planning and delivery date of the order.

Work flow

45

Giving Feedback to merchandiser about sample feasibility

Daily Production report from the each department

SMV values for the style from IE department

Discussion with production department for the process

Style study for cutting, sewing &

finishing or any out-house activity

Tech Pack and style details from the merchant and T n A

DETAILED TERMS FOR PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL:

Receiving Order Clarity Detail from Merchant:

The Planning receives the details of the order. Based on the information available, the order

feasibility is worked out.

SMV Details from IE:

The SMV analysis of the sewing styles is done by the IE department. The target for the styles

is set up for each operation at the specific efficiency.

Order Clarity Details to Floor:

The order clarity details i.e. the order quantity, delivery dates and the production Details are

passed on to the Floor by the Planning section.

Daily Order Status Report

Each department has to submit the daily order status report to the department.

The measures required to be taken if the order is not going on as expected can

Only come when the daily reports are available.

PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

Hear the production is doing by “CUT TO PACK” process all the cutting, sewing and packing is on one line itself. Like that total 10 lines is therein different two floors and in one line 35 machines are there and for that line one separate cutting and finishing table is there

Cutting production consist of all the process activities involved in reducing the bulk material used in apparel in to the component parts making up the apparel.

The cutting room is a combined section for spreading, cutting, ticketing, fusing, printing and bundling. This is just near to the fabric store. There is one spreading table of 23 feet length. The lay is cut by straight knife on the cutting table and the blocks are transferred to numbering table and then for fusing/printing/embroidery and then for bundling.

46

BASIC WORK FLOW

Spreading and Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the

production manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given

amount of styles, from the spreads. It comes in form of a package file that carries the following

details:

Sampling average, weight of garment (base fabric consumption only), and other trims

averages.

Measurement sheet

Design worksheet of the garment

Purchase order

Fabric requisition sheet

CAD mini marker

Marker planning- length of lay etc., size ratio and colors’ in which the patterns are to be

cut.

Spreading

Spreading is the process of superimposing plies of fabric on a horizontal table in a manner,

which permits these plies to be cut simultaneously into product components acceptable for

assembly. For this, first of all a thin brown paper sheet is spread on the table using an adhesive

tape to prevent the bottom plies from shifting during spreading. Then the actual spreading

47

process begins with the laying of first fabric layer on this brown sheet and subsequently the other

plies are laid.

The spreading of this lay is done manually. The length of the lay depends upon the quality of the

fabric & length of the marker as specified by the CAD. Whereas the lay height depends upon the

thickness of the fabric.

Length of spreading table 23.6 feet(283’’)

Width of spreading table 6 feet(72”)

Height of spreading table 3 feet(37.5”)

Table top type Sunmica

Spreading mode FONO

No of table 6

Cutting

The lay is cut with the help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or CAM m/c.

The machine is moved through the lay following the pattern lines of the marker and the

reciprocating blade cut the pieces of the fabric progressively. Notches are also added. The

garments are kept aside as and when they are cut.

Spread

48

Place marker

Cut pattern pieces

Sorting and Ticketing

The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one garment

size are brought together. It is very important to take care that pieces cut from two different bolts

(bundles) of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bolt-to-bolt variations

in the colour shade. The sorted pieces are now ticketed. Ticketing is the process of marking the

cut components for shade matching precision, and sequence identification. The worker secures

one end of the stack and puts on the ticket using ticket gun as he flips over the cut parts. The

ticket contains the size, bundle number and piece number and serves as important means to track

the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to end. After ticketing cut panels are sent

for fusing/printing/embroidery processes.

Embroidery

The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for embroidery

as stated in the production package. They check for any embroidery and follow up these

departments accordingly. Blocks of panels are sent for embroidery, which are checked after

receiving back. To avoid mixing of the panels, the cut panels are sorted according to size wise.

Fusing

49

Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated from the

bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the components to be

fused. The components along with the cut fusing material are kept between two papers sheets

and the pack is passed through the fusing machine. By means of the temperature and the pressure

fusing takes place at a particular speed and for a particular time. The pack comes out at the other

end on the conveyors and the pieces are removed and re bundled.

Bundling

50

The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled using ties.

The size of bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant. Each bundle will

contain pieces of the same style and same size only. The cutting department issues the amount

required by the production department when asked for.

51

WORK FLOW

no Yes

no Yes

52

Acquire fabric from fabric store

Cut sample to check

Require Checking

Cut for initial size set

Assemble and check

Require changes

Issue job order

Bulk cutting

Sorting

Cut plan

Bundling

Issue to sewing

Send to CAD for Change

Receive changed pattern from CAD

SEWING

Sewing has always been the most dominant of all the process in the garment industry. Much of

the application of technology to clothing manufacture is concerned with the achievement of

satisfactory construction of seams and permutation and combinations during line balancing for

getting the maximum output without compromising with the quality standards.

Sewing section in the unit consists of two floors which accommodate about 350 machines and

distributed into 10 lines. Each line has a supervisor monitoring the production and trying to

balance the line himself.

The production floor does production in two types,

- Piece rate production

- Assembly line production

53

Size Set Approval

Pilot Run

Loading of garment for Bulk Production

Inline Inspection

Final Inspection

Dispatch to Finishing

PROCESS FLOW FOR BULK PRODUCTION

The production floor will receive the details like,

the style or the garment,

number of operators required,

the batch for which the style has to be installed,

any extra kinds of machines that are to be used for the particular style,

target for each day

Breakup of the production quantity.

After receiving all these details they send a request for the cut parts from the cutting and sorting

section and the request is sent to the accessory stores for all the accessories that are required for

the particular style then they start the production for the new style.

Before starting the proper production the production floor does a process of batch-setting for the

floor which is training the operators for the new style that has to be produced bulk, this teaching

session will go on for about 3-4 hours maximum. After this batch setting process the production

54

starts with a smaller commitment i.e., may be for 50 pieces for the entire day and then the

production gradually increases from 50 – 100 – 150 and so on, this will make the operators learn

slowly and precisely about the processes that has to be carried out for the particular style.

Once the cut parts is received from the cutting and sorting section then the parts are prepared and

assembled according to the line that is planned. After the assembling of the parts is done then

there will be a line checking, where the shade matching and the measurements are checked and

sent.

During the process of garment making there exists two types of checking, they are

In-process checking.

End line checking. – Here there exists both AQL audit and normal checking.

The garment making is divided into three different stages and at these three stages the checking

is done.

The flow of material in the production floor is through the bundle system and each operator gets

a bundle containing similar pieces and there will be about 15 – 20 pieces in each bundle and the

operator completely finishes the job and sends it to the next operator to do the next operation on

them. Each bundle contain different components of same garment. The movement of the

materials within the operators in the batch/line is generally zig – zag motion which is followed.

The checking person will be present at a position where the garment is partially finished and it is

as mentioned checked thrice in the line and sometimes more than three and this depends on the

buyer as well as the number of components present in the garment.

The supervisor plays a vital role in the production floor. He manages the entire batch which is

been allocated to them and they have the following functions to perform,

1. They have to convey the proper stitching method to the operators.

2. Guide the operators when they face difficulty in making an operation and teach them

the most suitable and an easy method of performing the task.

3. Check if the entire operator in the batch/line is busy with the work being allocated to

them.

4. If the operator does not have any material to work on then the supervisor has to get

him/her their material and ask them to work.

5. Complain the production managers if the operators are not performing their best.

6. Have to maintain a proper communication between the operators and the management.

7. Should be in a position to tell the manager about each operator’s skill level whenever

asked for.

55

8. When any operator is on leave then the supervisor has to make sure who can be a

better person to fit into that vacant place.

9. At times the supervisor himself sits and performs the operation if necessary.

10. The supervisor should be in good terms with all the operators by having a friendly

approach to them and also must make sure that none of them create any trouble for the

factory at any time.

The production managers help the planning department during planning or allocating a particular

line for the style by telling them the capacity of the line and also telling them about the skills of

the operators.

56

Bulk Production

Cut parts received from cutting

In line checking

Assembly

Sewing process begins

Button & button hole/ Bar tack

Ironing

Spotting

Final checking

Tagging

Packing

Measurement checking

Auditing by buyer QA

Dispatch

End

PROCESS FLOW OF SEWING

57

Start

WORKING OF A SEWING ROOM

ISSUE OF THE CUT PARTS

The cut parts are dispatched to the sewing section and stored in the warehouse. Then it is

bundled and fed into the sewing line. Every bundle of cut parts is accompanied with a job card.

FEEDING TO THE LINE

The bundles are fed into the lines .Each bundle during our studies carried 20 pieces.

INLINE INSPECTION

After every critical operation an inline inspection personal is placed to keep a track of quality of

the pieces manufactured. This checking is placed before the final assembling of the garment

because alterations are difficult and sometimes even impossible after the completion of the

garment. The checking is done for stitching quality, seams, fabric, shades etc.

Pieces not up to the mark are sending for rework/alteration, the rate being 10-12%. The same

operator has to mend the fault in manufacturing, and is supposed to complete all the alterations

before ending is/her shift for the day.

FINAL INSPECTION

Final inspection consists of thread cutting, shade variation checks, check for faults in

manufacturing fabric faults etc. The rejected parts are considered as seconds and were, quite

obviously not added to the shipment lot. The rate of rejection was 1-2%.

SUPERVISORS

Line supervisors or in-charge has a critical role in function of his line. They continuously

monitor the operators.

58

FINISHING AND PACKAGING

The finishing department is the department which comes after all the departments and it plays an

equally important role in the final appearance of the garment. This department includes majorly

of the following steps:-

SEMI – PRESSING:

This happens when a garment is difficult to inspect in the crushes manner as it comes from the

washing department hence, they do a partial pressing for the garments and then inspect it and

trim it and then send it to the complete pressing process.

TRIMMING:

This involves the removal of the extra threads from the garment at the stitched areas.

INSPECTION:

The inspection carried out here is according to the AQL 2.5 system and sometimes it depends on

the buyer also i.e., if the buyer emphasizes for a 100% inspection then the company has to do as

specified.

59

PRESSING:

The pressing is done after the garment has been completely inspected and the garments are

pressed on the basis of how they will be folded during packing.

TAGGING SECTION:

Once the garments are been done with the inspection and complete pressing then they are sent

for tagging the labels and the labels include the size labels, price tags and miscellaneous labels if

any required by the buyer. Once the tagging is done the garments are folded according to the

buyer’s specification and also they are either folded plainly or sometimes they are folded after

they are put to the hangers as per the buyer’s specifications again.

The packing material, PCB details, number of size ratios that are supposed to be put in are all

suggested by the buyer and the packing is done according to these specifications.

PACKING:

The packing is always done in the carton boxes and there are several criteria for the packing of

the garments they are as follows,

There are generally two kinds of packing the garment,

1. The garment is individually packed/wrapped in the poly bag whose design will be

specified by the buyer or plain poly bag packing and then the entire garments (as

per the packing criteria) is arranged in the carton box.

2. The other method is that the garments are just folded and arranged in the carton

boxes without putting them in the poly bag.

60

MAINTENANCE

MAINTENANCE PROCESS FLOW

ROLES OF THE MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT

PROVIDES

The necessary machines, instruments and appliances to carry out the manufacturing.

FACILITATE

The department with necessary work aids and environment.

SERVE

The employs with necessary needs.

61

IE department sets the OB and list of attachments.

Maintenance department looks for the availability of the work aid, attachments and the machinery requirement in-house or otherwise order them to the supplier

Regularly keeps an update on the needle breaks and their causes so that it can be rectified in the near future

Keep the machines in running condition

Keeps a record of all the attachments used for the particular style for future reference in case the style repeats

MAINTAIN

The maintenance department is responsible not only for the maintenance of the machines but it is

also responsible for providing and maintaining the facilities for the production activities e.g.

illumination, air circulation, work place engineering, compressed air etc.

The condition of machines & working atmosphere in the department is mainly dependent on the

care taken and working in habits of the operators and all other floor employees.

TYPES OF MAINTENANCES

Breakdown Maintenance

Corrective Maintenance

Preventive Maintenance

Scheduled Maintenance

a) BREAKDOWN MAINTENANCE: - When the machine appliance stops completely & is not

in condition to be operated. This is carried out as and when the problems are highlighted by

concerned operators in the shop floor.

b) CORRECTIVE MAINTENANCE: - When the maintenance is carried out for the correction

of the problem served when the machine is running.

62

c) PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE: - The basic objective of this checking is to take

precaution breakdowns which are caused by certain well defined parameters in machine /

process. This type of maintenance is carried out when a problem is predicted before it can cause

a trouble. It thus prevents the trouble.

d )SCHEDULE MAINENANCE - In this stage a certain checking schedule is framed which

would include parameters to be checked, frequency of checking and next due date for

rechecking. This type of maintenance is carried out on the parts of the machine/appliances to

avoid the problems which otherwise would normally occur. Thus, it is another form of the

preventive maintenance

WORKING ENVIRONMENT

The maintenance Department is also required to provide clean and healthy working environment.

They have to provide the illumination level, air circulation, compressed air etc to the each

department.

WORK RELATED SAFETY MANAGEMENT

With the passage of time and safety management has also got importance, especially with buyers

using it for vendor evaluation. The maintenance department is responsible for the work related

safety of the employees e.g. proper machine covers, indications and instructions in danger zone

on machine and in the department.

In company, machine oil is changed once in 3-4 months and machine is cleaned on weekly basis.

The oil level in every machine is checked once in every week. In maintenance room, each

equipments, attachments, oils, nuts, bolts, needles, feed dog, presser foot etc are stored in a

proper way by listing each box.

63

PROJECTS

64

Project 1- Process Improvement from cut to load

Objective:-

To study, analyse and improve cutting room efficiency and capacity. To use various tools and calculate the present capacity of the cutting section.

Activities in Cutting Room

1. Receive cut order plan2. Load in spreader3. Preparation of Table4. Paper work5. Spreading of fabric6. Transport to cutting table7. Marker spreading8. Paper work for cutting challan9. Cutting10. Transport to Ticketing table11. Ticketing 1 (for fusing, printing and embroidery)12. Ticketing 2 (for rest pieces)13. Transport to fusing14. Fusing/Heat transfer/Embroidery15. Sorting (according to size wise after embroidery)16. Embroidery Checking17. Bundling18. Transport to Sewing Floor

Total Activities=18

65

Process Flow of Spreading and Cutting Room

66

PPC

Cut Order Plan

Cutting In charge

Fabric requisition form

Fabric issue

Spreading Room

Spreading

Preparation of Table

Cutting

Ticketing

Fusing Printing Embroidery

Sorting Checking

Bundling

Fabric store

Data Collection:-

Determination of SMV for all the operations in spreading & cutting. Determination of capacity for each process in spreading and cutting department. Identification of bottleneck operations. To determine the average throughput time for different types of fabric. i.e. body fabric,

hosiery and lining fabric. Study of the existing layout with reference to material flow & explore scope of

improvement.

Man Power Allocation:-

Process StrengthStore Helper 2Spreading 12

Cutting 3Cutting Helper 3

Ticketing 3Bundling 4

Fusing 2Heat transfer printing 6Checking and Sorting 5

Data Entry 1Quality Auditor 4

Capacity Study:-

Process Unit Time Strength CapacitySpreading 13.86

sec/gmt/group4 groups of 12 ppl

8312 gmt/day

Cutting 39 min 12 sec/gmt/master

6 ppl (3 master,3 helper)

6612 gmt/day

Ticketing 29.16 sec/gmt/person

3 ppl 2979 gmt/day

Fusing 6.84 2 ppl 4210 gmt/day

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sec/gmt/personSorting after embroidery

6.6 sec/gmt/person

3 ppl 13091 gmt/day

Embroidery checking

12.0 sec/gmt/person

2 ppl 4800 gmt/day

Bundling 43.75 sec/gmt/person

4 ppl (1 for bundle info entry)

1975 gmt/day

Observations and Suggestions:-

Observation Reason for current status

Suggestion Future effect

Manpower allocation is not proper.

Required manpower is not available.

Need more manpower for cutting.

Reduce time and improve capacity and efficiency.

Sometimes hand scissor is used instead of end cutters.

Lack of proper cutting equipment.

Only end cutters should be used for proper edge cutting.

Improve efficiency and neatness.

Splicing is not done at any level.

Many people think that it is wastage of time, nothing more.

Splicing should be used for preventing value loss.

Reduce re-cutting and wastage of fabric.

Sometimes spreader stops

Defect marks. Utilizing end

bits. Paper work. Measure

length and width of ply.

Roll change. Wait for the

lay to be cut or moved to the cutting machine.

Allocate material and manpower as per requirement and helpers should be fast.

Save time and increase efficiency and capacity.

Sometimes shifting of lay from spreading

Lack of tables and slow work.

Air floatation table should be used.

Lay will not be distorted and tension

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2 way marker (M,L)

180 plies and garment contains 25 parts

3 parts for fusing, 1 part for embroidery

table to the cutting table. (This will decrease tension in lay due to pulling and also distortion in lay.)

Cutting helpers are not comparatively fast enough to remove the cut parts from cutting table.

(Before shifting of lay make sure that air flotation is on and running at highest level)Cutting helpers and others should be well trained.

between plies maintained.

Sometimes, New lays are started on the completed ones. (This will distort either or both of the lays when the former lay is moved for cutting.)

Lack of tables and available table surface is not good which take more time for cutting and other processes.

Table surface quality should be good enough and more tables should be placed as per work processes.

Reduce loss of time and lays could be spread separately and spreading, cutting will be easy.

Cut parts kept under the spreading, cutting tables.

Lack of supervision and racks are not used.

Proper racks should be used to keep the cut parts according to production lines.

Reduce time for searching the particular style cut parts and extra space will be clear.

Two tables are only used for end bits.

Racks are not used for end bits due to lack of supervision and work stress.

Racks should be used individually for each and every style under the proper guidance of supervisor.

Use those tables for other purposes and finding a particular style fabric end bit will be easier for re-cutting.

Marker rack is not in a proper condition.

Carelessness of cutting in-charge.

Cutting in-charge should be aware about each and every element in cutting room even a single piece of fabric.

Improve cutting room efficiency and neatness of cutting floor.

Some ticketing workers are slow enough to complete the work in specified time period.

Not well trained or irresponsible.

Every worker should be trained enough to complete the work in a specific time and responsible too.

Reduce throughput time from cut to load.

In absence of cutting in-charge, some workers don’t do their work sincerely.

Carelessness and lose control on workers.

All workers should be responsible and sincere enough for their work.Cutting in-charge

Workers should be motivated by setting a target per day for their respective work,Motivation increases

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should have management and leadership qualities to control and motivate the workers.

the confidence and sincerity towards their work.

Proper synchronization is not maintained.

Due to work stress on cutting in-charge.Supervisors supervise the process but not the synchronization. This has to be taken in care.

Proper synchronization should be maintained by the cutting in-charge and the supervisor across all the operations and processes.

This will improve efficiency of cutting room and reduce throughput time.

Layout Study:-

We have studied cutting room layout carefully and we suggest some improvisations for better material flow.

During layout study of cutting room, we found that there was a lot of space which is not being used in a proper way. So we discussed it to our mentor (PPC head) and suggest her that this space can be used for various purposes to improve the capacity and efficiency of cutting room.

We have allocated some tables to reduce material movement time and better smooth flow of materials. Ticketing can be done near on cutting tables.

We suggest that more cutting tables should be placed to improve the cutting capacity.

Sorting and Embroidery checking can be done simultaneously. So we can allocate manpower as per necessity.

We allocate extra manpower (sorting and embroidery checking) for bundling process.

Factors Causing delay:-

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Waiting time Negligence of operators Paper work Measuring length and width of ply Roll changing No proper identification Zigzag movement due to improper lay out No proper planning Improper machine use Defect marks Sharing of working instruments Absence of operators Workers’ fatigue less experienced workers Poor machine performance Due to excess humidity and temperature No accountability in the department No standard operation followed by operator

Recommendations:-

71

Sorting and Embroidery checking can be done simultaneously so that we can allocate some manpower as per necessity, which reduce idle time and improve efficiency and productivity.

Proper production planning Minimum waiting time Proper allocation of manpower Effective application of industrial engineering Well trained operator Proper layout plan Minimum rework Smooth running of cutting machine Pressure bar and stand for all spreading table should be provided Manual counting is not required Correct roll Shade variation, length Width of the fabric should be issued by proper identification CAD sheet and slip to be same books to note down production to be given to all panel

checkers as one common book is used Style and color-wise cut audit parts need proper identification Humidity and temperature measuring instruments should be available for smooth

working Proper quality checking Minimum inspection time Reduced zigzag movement

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Capacity Study ( after implementation of project ):-

Process Unit Time Strength Capacity Extra CapacitySpreading 11.39

sec/gmt/group4 groups of 12 ppl

10114 gmt/day 1802 gmt/day

Cutting 27 min 12 sec/gmt/master

6 ppl (3 master,3 helper)


Ticketing 18.56 sec/gmt/person

3 ppl 4655 gmt/day 1676 gmt/day

Fusing 6.08 sec/gmt/person

2 ppl 4737 gmt/day 527 gmt/day

Heat transfer printing 20 sec/gmt 6 ppl 8640 gmt/dayBundling 31.62

sec/gmt/person6 ppl (1 for bundle info entry


73

3 way marker (S, XL, XXL)

240 plies and garment contains 16 parts

2 parts for fusing, 2 parts for printing

PROJECT – 2: Rework reduction through six sigma approach

Introduction

Rework is a vital issue for poor quality product and low production rate. Reworks are the non -productive activities focusing on any activity that customer are not willing to pay for. Non-productive activities describe that the customer does not consider as adding value to his product. By reacting quicker in minimization of reworks to make a product as per customer demand with expected quality, the company can invest less money and more costs savings. Therefore, a study was carried out in the garment industry named Creative clothex located at Noida, U.P, India at sewing section to identify reworks so as to eliminate them for saving time, cost and improved product quality.

Problem Definition and Methodology

In the Apparel Manufacturing Industry, main raw material is fabric; others are different types of trimming and accessories. Operational wastages in the Apparel manufacturing process are- top surface rework, printed label rework, sewing fault rework, pinhole rework, fabric rework Improper fly shape, and other reworks. The general methodology followed to minimize reworks is given below.

1. Analysis of data collected in order to identify majorly occurring defects 2. Categorization of defects3. Implementation of check sheets to capture defects in different departments 4. Introduction of Inline Inspection on Sewing floor through a pilot run in one line 5. Training on the Sewing floor to QC’s, supervisors and checkers on filling in the format

and on making Cause & Effect Diagrams 6. Analysis of defects occurring in the check sheets implemented in various departments

and devising suggestions to improve upon them 7. Spreading of Inline inspection to other lines 8. Tracking of improvements and comparing them with previous situation

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Identification of Defects

DMAIC PROCESS

DEFINE PHASE

• Currently in Line 5 , average rework in sewing is 20-22% for August, 2015 , This results extra cost, operator time, increased lead time leading to delay in delivery, customer dissatisfaction in terms of reliability resulting in loss of confidence.

MEASURE PHASE

Defect Zones

A zone The defects of the garment which is visible when it is packed.

B zone The defects of the garment which is visible when garment is opened flat.

C zone The defects which can be seen when the garment is turned.

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Defect Collection (for one week)

Garment :- Reebok Jacket

DEFECTDefected Quantity Inspected Quantity % defected

Cumulative % defected

Joint Out 18 44 40.9 22.5

Label Centre out 5 8 62.5 6.3

Puckering at Waistband 8 21 38.1 10.0Reverse stitch showing

(waistband join, binding)4

8 50.0 5.0

Care label to much inside 2 4 50.0 2.5Stripe gap uneven (waistband

join)1

3 33.3 1.3

Waistband extension uneven 3 12 25.0 3.8

Reverse join (cuff join) 1 5 20.0 1.3

Cuff attached 8 12 66.7 10.0Pocket width uneven(pocket

attach)1

3 33.3 1.3

Teeth stain 8 8 100.0 10.0

Panel up-down 4 6 66.7 5.0

Number mismatch 3 3 100.0 3.8

Uneven stitch(neck topstitch) 7 7 100.0 8.8

Stitch on print 3 3 100.0 3.8

Wrong thread 2 4 50.0 2.5

End finish not ok 1 3 33.3 1.3

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Holing gap not ok 1 3 33.3 1.3

80 157

Rank DEFECT Cumulative % of defects

1 Joint Out 22.5

2 Puckering at Waistband 10.0

3 Cuff attached 10.0

4 Teeth stain 10.0

5 Uneven stitch(neck topstitch) 8.8

6 Label centre out 6.3

7 Reverse stitch showing(waistband join, binding) 5.0

8 Panel up-down 5.0

9 Waistband extension uneven 3.8

10 Number mismatch 3.8

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0

5

10

15

20

25 22.5

10 10 10 8.86.3 5 5 3.8 3.8 3.8 2.5 2.5 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3

ANALYSE PHASE

Failure Mode Effect Analysis (FMEA)

Process Function/

Requirements (+ve)

Potential Failure mode

(-ve)

Potential Effect(s) of

failureSEV

Potential Cause (s)

OCCCurrent process control

DETRisk

Priority No.

Parts Rework < 2%

Parts Rework > 2%

High rejection

88 Unskilled

Operator9 Skill Matrix 6 432

Low Productivity

8Lack of

Understanding5

PP meeting

4 160

Low efficiency

8 Lack of SOP 8Mock

display6 384

Poor quality 8SOP not followed

8Mock

display6 384

Over time Cost

5Pressure to

produce4 No Control 10 320

Reliability reduced

5Poor raw

material quality8

RM Inspection

5 320

Delay in Delivery

8 Cut parts quality

8 Panel Inspection

8 512

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OTIF reduced

8 Missing panels 6Bundle Ticket

9 432

Raw material wastage

5Wrong side Numbering

Sticker8

Panel Inspection

5 320

Customer Dissatisfacti

on7

Marking Pens ( without trial

run)5

Stopped using

marking pens

3 120

No feeding to Assembly

8Needle Size

( without trial run)

4R & D in Sampling

5 160

Increased WIP

7 Wrong Pattern 5

Verified and Seal

by Sampling

head

7 280

Work Pressure

5

Unavailability/ Wrong /

Missing of Emb

6

Quality and

Quantity inspection

9 432

High Absenteeis

m5

Poor fusing quality

8Bond

Strength report

9 576

Improper Temperature

for Fusing due to neglegency

4Bond

Strength report

9 288

Improper Pressure for

Fusing due to neglegency

4Bond

Strength report

9 288

Poor quality numbering

stickers6 No Control 10 480

Parts cut in selvedges

4

Lay markers as per fabric

width

6 192

Matching standards not

followed in cutting

6 Buyer Specs

followed

7 336

79

Delay in embroidery

panels5

Line Loading

Plan8 320

Delay in print panels

5Line

Loading Plan

8 320

Delay in tapes 5Trims

checklist / Prod Plan

8 320

Delay in labels 5Trims


8 320

Delay in buttons

5Trims


8 320

Wrong label placement

4 Tech pack 3 96

Wrong issues of Labels

6 Trim Card 3 144

Wrong issues of buttons

6 Trim Card 3 144

Wrong issues of Threads

6 Trim Card 3 144

Trims missing in trim cards

8 Trim Card 8 512

Machine not set as per standard

8SPI

mockup6 384

Wrong folders & Guides

5PP

meeting7 280

Same machine bobbin case

not used5

Bobbin case bag with m/c number

3 120

SPI not set as per spec

5Inline / Endline

checking3 120

Process Potential Potential Effect(s) SEV Potential OCC Current DET Risk

80

Function/ Requirements (+ve)

Failure mode ( -ve)

of failure Cause (s)process control

Priority No.

Assembly Rework < 2%

Assembly Rework > 2%

High rejection 8 8Unskilled Operator

9 Skill Matrix 6 432

Low Productivity 8 Lack of Understanding

5 PP meeting 4 160

Low efficiency 8 Lack of SOP 8Mock display

6 384

Poor quality 8 SOP not followed

8Mock display

6 384

Over time Cost 5 Pressure to produce

4 No Control 10 320

Reliability reduced 5 Poor raw material quality

8RM Inspection

5 320

Delay in Delivery 8 Cut parts quality

8Panel Inspection

8 512

OTIF reduced 8 Missing panels

6Bundle Ticket

9 432

Raw material wastage

5 Missing sticker in parts

8Bundle Ticket

9 576

Customer Dissatisfaction

7

Marking Pens ( without trial run)

5

Stopped using marking pens

3 120

No feeding to Finishing

8 Needle Size ( without trial run)

4R & D in Sampling

5 160

Increased WIP 7 Wrong Pattern

5

Verified and Seal by Sampling head

7 280

Work Pressure 5 Bundle mix up

5Serial matching by helpers

7 280

High Absenteeism 5 Delay in ready parts

5Production report / plan

7 280

Shade Variation 7 Delay in 5 Trims 8 320

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in garments tapeschecklist / Prod Plan

Delay in labels

5Trims checklist / Prod Plan

8 320

Delay in buttons

5Trims checklist / Prod Plan

8 320

Wrong label placement

4 Tech pack 3 96

Wrong issues of Labels

6 Trim Card 3 144

Wrong issues of buttons

6 Trim Card 3 144

Wrong issues of Threads

6 Trim Card 3 144


8 Trim Card 8 512

Machine not set as per standard

8 SPI mockup 6 384

Wrong folders & Guides

5 PP meeting 7 280

Same machine bobbin case not used

5Bobbin case bag with m/c number

3 120

SPI not set as per spec

5Inline / Endline checking

3 120

HIGHER RPN CAUSES

82

SEV Potential Cause (s) OCC Current process control DET Risk Priority

No

8

Cut parts quality 8 Panel Inspection 8 512

Unskilled Operator 9 Skill Matrix 6 432

Missing panels 6 Bundle Ticket 9 432

Unavailability/ Wrong / Missing of Emb.

6 Quality and Quantity inspection

9 432

Poor fusing quality 8 Bond Strength report 9 576

Poor quality numbering stickers

6 No Control 10 480


8 Trim Card 8 512

Missing sticker in parts 8 Bundle Ticket 9 576

Poor Cutting quality 8 Panel Inspection 8 512

Bundle mix up 8 Bundle Ticket/ Sticker 8 512

Lack of SOP 5 No control 10 400

Uncut threads 8 Inline / End line checking 9 576

Numbering stickers not removed

6 Inline / End line checking 9 432

Sticker marks 6 Inline / End line checking 9 432

Stains 6 Inline / End line checking 9 432

Estimated Root Cause

1 Poor fusing quality

2 Missing sticker in parts

3 Uncut threads

83

4 Cut parts quality

5 Trims missing in trim cards

6 Bundle mix up

7 Poor quality numbering stickers

8 Unskilled Operator

9 Missing panels

10 Unavailability/ Wrong / Missing of Emb

11 Numbering stickers not removed

12 Sticker marks

13 Stains

Actual Root Cause Identification

List of Top Defects

Joint Out Puckering at Waistband

Uneven stitch (neck topstitch)

Label centre out

Cuff attached

Panel up-down

Uneven width(welt pocket, waistband ) Waistband extension uneven

Number mismatch

Ishikawa Diagram for Armhole joint out

84

Man Method

Uneven width during handling New operator

Pressure on operator for production

Uneven width at armholeUneven width during handling Operator handling New operator

Self-checking method not adopted Armhole downstitch

GEMBA- Armhole Joint Out

Causes SOP/SPEC

Man

Uneven Width at armhole Even armhole piping required, correct use of folders

Uneven width during handling

Proper width should be maintained by the operator himself or use guides

Operator handling Training; Smooth pull, smooth peddling, smooth feeding maintaining equal allowance throughout the operation

New Operator Operator should be properly trained for the operation they are supposed to perform

Self checking method not adopted

Operators should have a habit of regularly checking their work and the pieces they are handed, they should not neglect any fault

Armhole downstitch Should be even and done carefully according to specifications provided

Previous operation Operators should always check the pieces for any faults

Mismatch of notch Notches should be properly marked and matched

Operator's negligence Operators should be trained well not to neglect problems or faults

85

Notch not matching Notch missing

Uneven shape of sleeve Fabric quality

Uneven sleeve line match

Armhole joint out

Machine Material

Causes Effect

M/c breakdownImproper line matching of body

Uneven width at armholeUneven width during handling Operator handling New operator

Self-checking method not adopted Armhole downstitch

Disturbance by others Operators should not disturb others

Side seam join up down Side seam should be carefully done matching the notches

Machine

Improper machine pressure foot

Should be proper as per style ensuring correct holding capacity.

Improper line matching of body

Front and back body line should correctly match

Machine settings Reconditioning and resetting as per fabric quality, feed time and looper time

Machine breakdown

Method

Uneven width during handling

Operators should be properly trained to maintain even widths

Improper/ wrong method of finishing

GSD

Pressure on operator

Material

Notch not matching Notch should be properly done in cutting

Notch missing Notches should not be missed in cutting

Uneven shape of sleeve Cutting should be properly done of parts

Causes Validated through Gemba

Uneven width during handling Operator handling Armhole down stitch Side seam join up down Improper method of notch matching Operator’s negligence Improper line matching of body Mismatch of notch Uneven shape of sleeve Fabric quality Uneven sleeve line match Disturbance by other operators

Why Why Analysis

1 Operator Handling

•Improper feeding

•Inadequate Skill

•Required A* operator

•Proper training to be given

86

•Frequent Operator change

•Difficult to handle material

•Buyer Requirement

• Unnecessary pulling of plies

• Notch not marked properly

•Operator busy talking • Improper sleeve shape

2 Armhole down stitch

•Non-uniform

•Required A* operator

•Required training

•Frequent operator change

3 Operator’s negligence

• Too much WIP

• Inadequate Skill

• Required A* operator

• Required training

• Frequent Operator change

•Improper machine working

•Non-availability of maintenance personnel

•Too much rework

• Too much Rework

• Inadequate skill

• Required A* operator

• Pressure for production

•Too much WIP

• Operator inefficient

• Frustration


• Fight with other operators

• Bad mood • Personal problems

4 side seam up down

•Difficult to handle fabric

• Buyer’s specification

•Unnecesary pulling of plies

•Operation requirement

• Operator negligence

• Too much WIP • Inadequate Skill

• Too much rework

5 Improper line matching of body

• Too much rework



• Too much WIP


•Inadequate skill

87

•Improper machine working

• Non-availability of maintenance personnel

6 Disturbance by other operators

• To give rework pieces

• To show the mistake

• To talk

•To get their work done

•Other operators can’t do that work

•Under-skilled operator

• Other operator’s are overloaded


7 Mismatch of Notch

• Notch not marked correctly

• Operator not paying attention

•Talking with other operators

• Notch not followed properly by sleeve attach operator

• Operator inefficiency


• Operator not paying attention

•Pressure for production

• Bad day


•Too much WIP


Ishikawa Diagram for Number Mismatch

88 Number Mismatch

Man Method

Sticker area chopped in overlock

Pieces mixedOperator handling

Improper NumberingSelf-checking method not adopted

by operatorsShortage of parts

Different size parts mix upImproper Bundling

GEMBA- Number Mismatch

Causes SOP/SPEC

Man

part mix up Operators should be careful about the number on the parts stitched together

Improper numbering ticketing should be carefully done

Improper bundling Bundling should be properly done

Shortage of parts Cutting plan should be properly made

Proper instruction to workers workers should be given proper instructions about different measurements required

Operator handling Training; Smooth pull, smooth peddling, smooth feeding maintaining equal allowance throughout the operation

New Operator Operator should be properly trained for the operation they are supposed to perform

Self checking method not adopted

Operators should have a habit of regularly checking their work and the pieces they are handed, they should not neglect any fault

Operator's negligence Operators should be trained well not to neglect problems or faults

Machine

89

Machine Material

Causes Effect

Improper Print of NumbersNumber sticker removed

Improper print of numbers Ticketing machine should be properly checked and serviced

Method

Sticker area chopped in overlock

sticker should be placed in such a way that it does not get removed or chopped in any operation

Material

Sticker removed Sticker should have a proper quality of adhesive

Causes Validated through Gemba Pieces mixed Operator handling Improper Numbering Improper print of numbers Self checking method not adopted by operators Shortage of parts Different size parts mix up Improper Bundling Number Sticker Removed Sticker area chopped in overlock

Why Why Analysis1

Pieces Mixed

•Improper instruction •Required A* operator

•Operator negligence •Too much WIP

•Improper Handling •Required Training

2 Improper Numbering

•Negligence while ticketing •Inadequate Skill

•Operator busy talking

3 Improper print of numbers

•Ticketing Machine not ok •Require Maintenance

•Ticketing Machine not handled properly

•Inadequate Skill •Required training

•Operator negligence •Operator inattentive

4 Operator’s •Too much WIP •Inadequate Skill •Required A*

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negligence

operator

•Improper machine working •Non-availability of maintenance personnel

•Too much Rework •Inadequate skill •Required A* operator

• Bad mood •Personal problems

5

Improper bundling

• Parts mixed after cutting •Operator Negligence •Required A* operator

•Pieces wrongly numbered •Operator Negligence •Required training

•Parts mixed while distributing

•Operator Negligence •Frequent operator change

•Inadequate training staff

6 Shortage of parts •Cutting not planned properly

7 Number Sticker removed

•Ineffective Adhesive

•Improper ticketing •Problem with ticketing machine

•Required maintenance

•Operator Negligence •Required training

8

Disturbance by other operators

• To give rework pieces

•To show the mistake

•To talk

• To get their work done •Other operators can’t do that work

•Under-skilled operator

•Other operator’s are overloaded

•Inadequate skill

9 Sticker area chopped in overlock

•Placement of sticker •Require method improvement

Ishikawa Diagram for Puckering at waistband

91 Puckering at waistband

Man Method

Improper pre-setting of waistband

Top ply is pushed and bottom ply is held back

Plies in the seam not being aligned properly

CarelessnessUnskilled operator

Ishikawa Diagram for Waistband extension uneven

92

Causes Effect

Improper tension settingImproper SPI causing structural

jammingWrong pressure foot which holds the top ply whereas bottom ply is

fed at a faster pace

Different composition of bobbin and needle thread

Waistband extension

uneven

Man Method

Margin not followed while attaching waistband

Waistband edge not finished properly

Unskilled operator

IMPROVE PHASE

Solutions to the Root Causes

Armhole Joint Out Problem

Sl. No.

Root Cause Corrective Action Preventive Action Responsibility

1Ignorance by the

operator

Operators should be properly told the pros and cons of

ignorance

Tight control should be exercised by the supervisor

and QC

93

Waistband extension

uneven

Improper folder setting on machine

Zipper not attached properly which led to mismatch in left

and right front of the garment

2

• Patterns not placed correctly

while cuttingThe cutting operators should match the pattern from one

edge of the fabric and handle the fabric properly

The pattern placement should be checked by the operator

before cutting• Improper handling while

cutting

3Iron box setting

not suitable for the fabric

Iron box settings should be changed according to the

fabric being ironed

A list of required settings for different fabrics should be

prepared and hung near the ironing table

QC Department

4Over speed while

stitching

The operators should maintain the speed as per the SOP of

the operation

The speed of the machine should be adjusted to the

required speed by the maintenance people

5

• Uneven sleeve attach

Edge guide should be provided Operator should check for the

correct attachment of the pieces

Uneven margin during sleeve

attach

Operator should be shown the videos showing correct

method of stitching

6Wrong matching of

F&B pieces

Front & Back matching helper should take care of the serial

nos. of the pieces.

Needs part wise serial follow up

Cutting Dept.

Number Mismatch Problem

Sl. No.


1Lack of attention of

issuing authority leading to size mix

Issuing authority in cutting dept. should take care

Proper ticketing & bundling should be done

2 Man-handling the bundles in cutting

dept.

The bundles should be immediately sent to sewing

after cutting to avoid any storage in cutting leading to

94

man-handling of bundles

3Lack of self-

checking by the operators

The operators should self-check the pieces as per 6

sigma training

Puckering at waistband Problem

Sl. No.


1

Improper pre- setting of waistband

after thumb pressing

Pressing was done by steam iron with a spray of starch

over it. This made the handling of the waistband easier while stitching and thus reduced puckering at

the waistband.

Proper pressing should be done

Waistband extension uneven Problem

Sl. No.


1Improper folder

setting on machine

The folder guide was adjusted and improper

materials handling avoidedProvide proper folder guide

2

Margin not followed while attaching waistband and

waistband edge not finished properly

The operator was instructed to be careful while feeding and following the margins

strictly

CONTROL PHASE

Used to ensure that the improved process is maintained and to establish controls for the same

Develop Control Plans/ Quality Plans/ Procedures & Standardize the improved process Evaluate Benefits / results Check before after through individual Control charts, Histograms, etc. Evaluate Sigma Level Before & after

95

apparel internship

Documents

fashion technology b

production of apparels

apparel industry of

project report

creative vision09

kangra acknowledgementwe

internship period

functions of creative