apparel glossary 08

8/8/2019 Apparel Glossary 08

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Apparel Glossary of Terms

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Yarn & Fiber TermsACRYLIC: A manuactured ber with a sot, wool-like hand,machine washable and dryable, excellent color retention.

BAmBoo: A plant related to the grass species which isa naturally sustainable resource. Bamboo grows without

the use o pesticides, is biodegradable, regenerative andgenerates more oxygen than trees. Bamboo ber is spuninto yarns and knit into abric which is inherently antimicrobialand moisture absorbent.

CARDED YARN (KP): A cotton yarn which has gone throughan opening and cleaning process, containing a wide range ober lengths. Carded yarns are not as uniorm or strong ascombed yarn.

ComBED YARN (CP): A cotton yarn which contains straighterand longer bers (over 1 1/8) or better uniormity and strength.An additional combing step is conducted on carded yarn toproduce combed yarn.

CoTToN: A natural ber that grows in the seed pod o thecotton plant. Fibers are typically 1/2 inch to 2 inches long.The longest staple bers produce the highest quality cotton

abrics.GAUGE: A measurement commonly associated with knitting,meaning the number o needles per inch in a knitting machine

HEATHER: A yarn that is spun using pre-dyed bers. Thesebers are blended together to give a particular look. (Forexample, black and white may be blended together to createa grey heathered yarn.) The term, heather, may also be used todescribe the abric made rom heathered yarns.

mAN mADE FIBER (SYNTHETIC): The class name or bers whichare chemically produced (acrylic, nylon, polyester, acetate, etc.).

mERCERIZED YARN: A solution nishing process or cottonyarn which increases strength, dyeability, and luster o thenished abric.

mICRoFIBERS: Ultra-ne manuactured bers, made using

microber technology to produce bers which weigh less than1.0 denier or a superior hand, drape, and sotness. Microbersare two times ner than silk, three times ner than cotton,eight times ner than wool, and one hundred times ner thana human hair.

NATURAL FIBER: The class name or bers o animal (silk,wool), vegetable (cotton, fax, linen, jute, and ramie) or mineralorigin (asbestos).

NYLoN: Produced in 1938, the rst completely synthetic berdeveloped. Known or its high strength and excellent resilience,nylon has superior abrasion resistance and high fexibility.

oPEN END SPUN (oE): A system o spinning yarns whichintroduces twist without rotating the yarn package. Yarn isspun at exceptionally high speeds or cost savings.

oRGANIC CoTToN:Cotton that is grown without the use otoxic pesticides and synthetic ertilizers. Vantages organic

cotton is also manuactured without the use o chemicalbleaches and dyes.

PImA CoTToN: A premium cotton that has very ne, strong,lustrous, extra long bers which makes or superior abrics witha lustrous appearance and sot hand. Fine long staple cotton,named or Pima County, Arizona.

PoLYESTER: A manuactured ber introduced in the early1950s, having high strength, excellent resiliency, high abrasionresistance, and rapid drying.

PoLYNoSIC RAYoN: Rayon staple bers which are high-wetmodulus (improved resistance to deormation, wrinkling).Fiber length is twice as long as conventional rayon.

RAYoN: A manuactured ber composed o regeneratedcellulose derived rom wood pulp that is dissolved in a solution,extruded into laments, and cut into ber lengths.

RECYCLED PET: PET is the abbreviated name orpolyethylene terephthalate, the polymer used to createplastic soda bottles. Recycled soda bottles are processed and

converted into polyester bers that are knit into the abric oour recycled feece.

RING SPUN (RS): A system o spinning yarns using a ring-and-traveler which combines multiple yarn processes (drating,twisting and winding) into one process. Yarns are strongerthan open end spun yarns.

SPANDEX: A manuactured elastomeric ber that can berepeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking, and will stillrecover to its original length.

SUSTAINABLE FIBERS: Fibers made rom resources thatcontribute to the productivity o natural ecological systemsand help to reduce long-term/harmul eects on theenvironment.

Fabric TermsAIR-JET TEXTURED NYLoN: A very high lament abric inwhich yarns are propelled through a shed by means o a jet oair at high speeds giving it a very sot texture.

BRoADCLoTH: A ne, closely woven, lustrous cotton orcotton/poly blend made in plain weave.

CANVAS: A abric usually made rom cotton, fax, hemp, or jute in heavier weights, plain or double-end plain weaves,eaturing strength and rmness.

CHAmBRAY: A plain woven abric, most commonly in cotton,incorporating a colored warp (oten blue) and white lling yarns.

CIRCULAR KNIT (TUBULAR): Fabric knit on circular needle-bedknitting machine which produces abric in tubular orm.

DENIm: A twill weave abric made with dierent colored yarnsin the warp and the wet. Due to the twill construction, thewarp color predominates on the abric surace.

DoUBLE-TUCK PIQUE: A pique knit abric with a tuck stitch,where two loops are ormed in a single loop, creating amesh pattern.

END-oN-END: A abric in which white or contrast color threadsare interwoven alternately with colored threads to produce asubtle textured eect.

FAILLE: A sot, nely-ribbed woven abric made using heavieryarns in the cross-grain to produce a horizontal, ribbed eect.

FLANNEL: A plain or twill weave abric that has a very sothand, brushed on both sides to lit the ber ends out o thebase abric and create a sot, uzzy surace. End-uses includeshirts, linings, and pajamas.

FLEECE: A sot bulky abric with deep pile; used chiefy or clothing.

HERRINGBoNE: A variation on the twill weave constructionin which the twill is reversed, or broken, at regular intervals,producing a zigzag eect.

HoUNDSTooTH CHECK: A variation on the twill weaveconstruction in which a broken check eect is produced,utilizing at least two dierent colored yarns.

JACQUARD: A specialty abric o intricate weave or knit pattern.

JERSEY: A single knit abric with a smooth, fat ace, and amore textured, but uniorm back, may be produced on eithercircular or fat knitting machines.


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Fabric Terms(cont.)KNIT: Fabric ormed by interlooping one or more strandso yarn by the use o knitting needles. The vertical rows oloops are called wales; horizontal rows o loops are calledcourses. Changing the loop arrangement will produce a

variety o knit constructions or stitches, such as pique, interlock,jersey, rib, etc.

mESH: A type o abric characterized by its net-like openappearance, and the spaces between the yarns; available as awoven or knits.

mICRoSUEDE: Woven abric made rom microber yarns thatare napped and sheared to provide a suede-eect.

mILANo KNIT: Identied by a ne rib eect on the ace othe abric.

oTTomAN KNIT: A warp-aced abric showing a bold wetway-rib eect on the ace.

oXFoRD: A lightweight woven abric in a 2 x 1 basket weavevariation o the plain weave construction. The abric is usedprimarily in shirtings.

PIQUE: A knit abric distinguished as a wafe or honeycombsurace eect.

PoPLIN: A abric made using a rib variation o the plain weave,having a slight ridge eect in the lling direction.

QUILTING: Two or more layers o abric which have beenstitched through, oten with batting. The stitching orms apattern, most commonly a square or diamond shape.

RIB KNIT: Rib knits have a very high degree o elasticity in thecrosswise direction. This knitted abric is commonly used orsleeve cus, neckbands/collars, and sweater waistbands. Ribknits provide a close, body-hugging t.

RIP-SToP: Large rib yarns in this plain weave abric stop tearswithout adding excess weight to active sportswear abric.

TAFFETA: A lustrous plain weave abric commonly used or

linings and windbreakers.TERRY CLoTH: A pile weave abric with uncut loops on thesurace. Typical uses include towels, robes, and apparel.

TERRY VELoUR: A pile weave abric with an uncut loops onone side and a cut pile on the reverse side, having a sot,luxurious hand. Commonly used or toweling and robe abrics

TWILL WEAVE: A basic weave in which the abrics areconstructed by interlacing warp and lling yarns to create adiagonal eect on the ace o the abric.

WoVEN: Fabric ormed with two sets o yarns which areinterlaced together on a loom. Yarns in the length directionare called ends or warp; yarns in the width direction arecalled picks or wet. Changing the interlacing will producea variety o weave constructions, such as plain weave, twill,dobby, jacquard, etc.

Dyeing & Finishing TermsANTI-mICRoBIAL FINISH: Topical chemical treatment to saelyprevent and control growth o microorganisms. Treatment willalso inhibit odor development caused by biological growth ontextiles exposed to perspiration, especially on synthetic abrics.

ANTI-PILL: A garments resistance to abrasion caused romwear, preventing bers rom twisting together and orminglittle balls on the abric surace.

DURABLE WATER REPELLENT (DWR): Water repellent abric whichwill maintain its repellency characteristics ater multiple launderings.Many Vantage jackets and windshirts have DWR nish.

GARmENT DYED: Color is introduced onto nished garments,

ater sewing. Color remains on the surace o the abric (notabsorbed ully into the yarns), making it susceptible to colorrub-o (crocking).

moISTURE moVEmENT: Process o a abric absorbing liquidmoisture (by wicking) and moving it to the outer surace so it mayrapidly evaporate.

PIECE DYED: Color is introduced onto abric, in the piece, aterweaving or knitting, providing a single color or the material.

SoIL/STAIN RELEASE FINISH: Topical chemical treatment actingas abric shield or protection against water-based and oil-based soils or stains. Liquids bead-up on abric surace or quickblotting, absorbed soils or stains are released rom bers duringhome laundering.

ULTRAVIoLET PRoTECTIoN: Fabric that provides protectionby blocking Ultra Violet Radiation (UVR) rom passing through,reducing the risk o skin injury associated with Ultra Violetexposure. The Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) is themeasure o the UVR protection provided by the abric. UVRprotection can be created through a combination o ber type,stitch construction, color, etc., or by topical treatment with a

chemical nish or ultraviolet radiation protective properties.WATER REPELLENT: Fabric has a thin coating applied to theouter abric which allows water to bead up and roll o insteado being absorbed. The abric is permeable to air and iscomortable to wear. The nish is temporary and will wear o.

WATER PRooF: Fabric provides maximum wet weatherprotection by preventing all water entry under severe anddemanding conditions. The abric is impermeable to waterand air, and usually uncomortable to wear. For a garment tobe water proo, every design and construction detail must beengineered (such as sealing exposed seams, protected zippersand other closures) to be completely leak proo.

WICKING: Fabric or yarns ability to absorb or draw-in and holdliquid moisture (perspiration) by drawing it into the bers.

WINDPRooF: Fabric prevents wind rom moving through it.Fabrics can be windproo because o tight weave construction,by topical coating or by lamination o a windproo membraneonto an air-permeable abric. All waterproo abrics are alsowindproo.

YARN DYED: Color is introduced ollowing yarn spinning ontogreige (unnished, natural) yarn beore the abric is knitor woven.

Garment TermsBUNGEE CoRD: An elasticized rubber cord used to asten orcinch the garment around a body part.

BUTToN-DoWN CoLLAR: Shirt collar with pointed endsastened to shirt by small buttons.

BYRoN CoLLAR: Pointed collar with no band.CoNVERTIBLE CoLLAR: A rolled collar (sewn directly to theneckline), designed to be worn either astened as a stand-upcollar or unastened as a lay-down collar.

EYELET: A small hole or peroration, usually rimmed with metalor edged with embroidered stitches, used or ventilation or toinsert a cord/pin through the opening.

FUSED CoLLAR/ PLACKET/ CUFF: Made with an interacingas a oundation abric with adhesive making it easier to iron orwrinkle-ree.

GRommET: A small ring or stud (metal or plastic) used toreinorce an eyelet or a stitch.

GUSSET: A abric insert, as in the seam o a garment, or addedstrength or expansion; oten triangular in shape.


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Garment Terms(cont.)HIDDEN-BUTToN CoLLAR:Shirt collar with pointed ends astenedto shirt by small buttons to a hidden loop on the underside othe collar points.

JoHNNY CoLLAR: A small collar over a ribbed v-neck.

moCK TURTLE: Separate reduced height band collar, single

ply, that ts close to the neck.NoTCHED LAPEL: A tailored collar which has an indentationor notch cut out where the lapel joins the collar.

PLACKET: Slit at neck, wrist in shirt/blouse, or ront o pants/skirt to acilitate taking garments on and o. Fastened bybutton, zippers, etc.

SPREAD CoLLAR: Shirt collar with a wide division betweenpoints in ront.

STAND-UP CoLLAR (BANDED): Collar extending higher on theneck . May also be turned down in either ront or back, to ormtwo distinct types o collars.

TURTLENECK CoLLAR: High band collar, usually knitted, thatts very close to the neck and rolls over.

VENT: A slit in a garment which allows room or movement, as

in the sides o a polo or the back seam opening o a jacket.YoKE: Portion o garment across shoulders in ront or back,usually a separate piece seamed across ront and backsometimes lined.

Quality Assurance TermsABRASIoN: The wearing away o a material by rubbing againstanother surace. Color abrasion o textiles is measured byColorastness to Crocking test.

ABSoRBENCY/ABSoRPTIoN: The propensity o a material totake in and retain liquid.

ACCEPTABLE QUALITY LEVEL (AQL): In a series o lots, a qualitylevel that sets the limit o deects allowable in a sampling orthe lot to be acceptable. The smaller the AQL number, theewer deectives allowed per sample size. Vantage inspectsat AQL 2.5, considerable stricter than the general apparelindustry standard o AQL 4.0.

BARR: An unintentional, repetitive visual pattern o bars and/or stripes usually in the width direction o a abric.

CARE INSTRUCTIoNS: A series o directions describing whichcare practices should reurbish a product without adverseeects and warning against practices expected to be harmul.

CAUSE: An identied reason or the presence o a deect orproblem.

CoDE oF CoNDUCT: Expectations o behavior. Every Vantagequalied actory provides signed commitment to responsiblemanuacturing, ethical and responsible conduct, respect orrights o all individuals and or the environment.

CoLoRFASTNESS: Resistance to ading; a abrics ability to retaincolor properties under conditions o laundering, perspiration,light or sun exposure, rubbing or abrasion (crocking), et al.

CoLoR BLEEDING: The loss o color due to improper dyeingor the use o poor quality dyes; causes staining o white orlight shade abrics in contact when exposed to water, solvents,chemicals or other liquids.

CoLoR FADING: The lessening o color intensity due to ineriorcolorastness properties, dye weakness, exposure to chemicals,natural or articial light, water, chemicals or other agents.

CommERCIAL LAUNDERING: Process where textile productsare reurbished in commercial laundering equipment, typicallyat higher temperatures, higher pHs and longer cycle timesthan used or home laundering.

ComPLIANCE: The state o meeting prescribed specications,contract terms, regulations or standards.

CoNTINUoUS ImPRoVEmENT (CI): A philosophy or analyzingcapabilities and processes and improving them repeatedly toachieve the objective o customer satisaction.

CoRRECTIVE ACTIoN: Implementation o solutions resultingin the reduction or elimination o an identied problem.

CRoCKING: The transer o color rom the surace o coloredtextile materials to other suraces by rubbing.

DEFECT/DEFECTIVE:Non-ulllment o an intended requirementor reasonable expectation or use; a unit that contains one ormore deects with respect to the quality characteristic(s) underconsideration.

DRYCLEANING: The cleaning o textile products with organicsolvents instead o water.

FABRIC STRENGTH: The maximum orce applied to a abricbrought to rupture, known as breaking or tensile strength owoven abrics, or burst strength o knit abrics.

INSPECTIoN: Measuring and examining one or morecharacteristics o a product or service and comparing the resultswith specied requirements to determine conormity.

ISo 9000 STANDARDS: A set o international standards onquality management and quality assurance developed toeectively document the system elements to be implementedto maintain an ecient quality system.

LAB DIP: Dyeswatch prepared in laboratory to establish dyeormulation and standardization o a textile shade.

LIGHTBoX:Standardized viewing area or rating o color matchunder variable light bulb conditions.

mETAmERIC CoLoR mATCH: A colored product which maintainsits same color appearance under variable light conditions.

PERFoRmANCE STANDARD: The metric against which aproduct or action is compared.

PREVENTIVE ACTIoN: Action taken to remove or improve aprocess to prevent potential uture non-conormance.

QUALITY: The characteristics o a product or service tosatisy stated or implied needs; a product or service ree odeciencies.

QUALITY ASSURANCE: The planned and systematic activitiesin a quality system to provide condence a product will ulllrequirements or quality.

QUALITY CoNTRoL: The operational techniques and activitiesused to ulll requirements or quality.

RANDom SAmPLING: A sampling technique where sampleunits are selected so that all combinations o units underconsideration have an equal chance o being selected asthe sample.

SAmPLE SIZE: The number o units in a sample.

SHRINKAGE (DImENSIoNAL CHANGE): The change in length

and/or width dimensions o a garment when subjected tospecied conditions.

SKEW, SPIRALITY oR ToRQUE: A rotation or twisting o abricor garment panels rom the release o latent stresses in knittingor weaving.

SPECIFICATIoN: A document that states the requirements towhich a product or service must conorm.

STANDARD: The metric, specication, or physical productsample against which the outputs o a process are comparedand declared acceptable or unacceptable.

WEAR LIFE: The expected useul lie o the product undernormal use conditions.

VALUE ADDED: The parts o the process or product that addworth rom the perspective o the external customer.

apparel glossary 08

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