fibre glossary sustainability...

The Italian Millenial

Fibre Glossary

Sustainability Focus

This fibre glossary highlights the environmental impacts and innovative developments within commonly used fibres in the textiles industry

Innovation & Sustainability


Overview

A commitment to sustainability is imperative for the fashion and textiles industry. Now is the time to recognise growing consumer interest and demand for transparency and accountability as a key driver for investing in fibres and resources with lower environmental impact.

Knowing where to start among multiple certifications, fibre

marketing and press communications can be a daunting task. This glossary is a simple guide to some of the key fibre groups widely used in the apparel industry, highlighting some of the environmental impacts and innovative developments within each fibre.


Fibre background: one of the world's oldest cultivated crops, flax is grown for linen production. Northern and Eastern European countries including France, Belgium, Italy and the UK are suitable for growing climates as well as Canada, Russia, Pakistan, India, China and Africa. Cellulosic fibres are extracted from flax plants to make linen yarn, with longer fibres making the finest and premium yarns.

Eco credentials:flax is a low impact, biodegradable fibre. Grown on terrain unsuitable for food production, crops require little to no pesticides or chemicals and need relatively little water when

grown. CELC and Masters of Linen promote superior European linen.

Fibre properties:Ÿ Highly absorbent with natural wicking and cooling

qualities Ÿ Superior strength, proven to be two to three times

stronger than cotton – Naturally hypoallergenic

Applications: apparel and interior textiles, soft accessories, non-wovens and solid composite materials

Flax


Fibre background: With a history tracing back thousands of years, cotton represents a large proportion of fibres used for apparel and non-apparel textiles worldwide. Cotton is a natural cellulosic fibre, grown in warm climates across the globe, including China, India, US, Pakistan, Uzbekistan and Turkey. Cotton balls are extracted and spun into yarns.

Eco credentials: Relying on huge amounts of water for cultivation and production, cotton does not fare well in sustainability. Harmful pesticides and chemicals in cotton production are detrimental to the health of workers and ecosystems.

However, organic cotton farming eliminates pesticides and reduces extensive water use, offering a more eco-positive solution. Certification bodies such as BCI and GOTS offer eco-assurance on cotton. Cotton Incorporated is a trade organisation that promotes US cotton and sustainable information.

Fibre properties:Ÿ High heat resistance, washable and easy care -

Absorbent and comfortable

Applications: Apparel, accessories, interior textiles, hygiene

Cotton


Wool

Fibre background: A keratin-based protein fibre derived from the fleece of sheep, wool has been used throughout history, with different breeds favoured for unique properties. Top farming countries include China, Australia, India and New Zealand among others, with hot, arid climates producing fine softer fleeces and colder wet climates (such as the UK) resulting in shorter fibre and coarser woollens.

Eco credentials: Wool fibres are naturally biodegradable, releasing nutrients when decomposing. Wool growers have a responsibility to sustain the environment sheep live in, making future production possible before land is degraded. Organisations

such as RWS and IWTO oversee standards in the industry, while Woolmark and Wools of New Zealand promote innovation and developments.

Fibre properties:

Ÿ Thermal, breathable and high-performing moisture management

Ÿ Soft and comfortable

Ÿ Naturally high level of UV protection, antistatic, anti-stain, easy care

Applications: Apparel and interior textiles, insulation


Cashmere

Fibre background: Produced in Mongolia and China, the fine and soft cashmere fibres come from the neck and undercoat of cashmere goats.

Eco credentials: Most cashmere is produced in areas which are overgrazed, creating emissions of CO2 from grassland soils and impacting animal welfare. In addition, desertification can exacerbate economic hardship for nomadic herders, driving them into poverty and displacement. Collaborating with organisations such as the Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA) can bring traceability to the supply chain in order for

concerns to be addressed together. The industry faces a challenge on how to make the system more sustainable to cope with future demand, for example, farming less but better.

Fibre properties:Ÿ Superior insulating properties due to superfine fibres,

three-times higher than regular wool Ÿ Extreme softness and durability, if cared for

Applications: Luxury apparel and interiors textiles, accessories


Fibre background: Silk is a natural protein fibre, commonly cultivated from cocoons spun by Bombyx Mori silkworms. Once unwound from cocoons, silk filaments are combined to produce raw silk thread. Tussah silk is heavier, coarser silk produced by wild silkworms. Silk was first developed in ancient China, and the country is still the biggest silk producer, followed by India which is the biggest consumer of silk fibre.

Eco credentials: Traditional silk production boils silk cocoons with live larvae inside in order to extract an intact fibre. Seen by some as an unethical practice, cruelty-free alternatives are available.

Svarna and eco silks leave moths to mature and leave the cocoons before harvesting the silk. Vegan alternatives are also available, with companies such as Bolt Threads engineering bio silk from natural yeast proteins.

Fibre properties:Ÿ Natural lustre and soft hand-feelŸ High tensile strength and drapeŸ Good insulation and antibacterial properties

Applications: Apparel and interior textiles, accessories

Silk


Fibre background: Angora fibres derive from angora rabbits. The angora is one of the oldest domestic rabbits, originating in Ankara (historically known as Angora), present-day Turkey. Angora is farmed in China, South America (Chile, Argentina, Brazil) Europe, India and Korea. The angora industry has suffered greatly in recent years, following an exposé from PETA showing extreme animal cruelty in China, causing a regional export decrease from $23m in 2010, to $4.3m five years later.

Eco credentials: The process of extracting hair from Angora rabbits has come

under scrutiny from animal welfare advocates. While angora rabbits need to either moult or be sheared, inhumane practices can be prevalent in commercial scale production. While still contentious, small-scale farms and regulated yarn producers such as UPW can offer assurance on animal welfare.

Fibre properties:Ÿ Extremely soft, fine and lightweight fibresŸ Good thermal insulation, but low resilience

Applications: Apparel and interior textiles, accessories

Angora


Fibre background: Mohair fibres are produced by Angora goats, predominantly in South Africa. The Angora goat is said to originate from Tibetan mountains, reaching Turkey in the 16th century. Mohair is known for high lustre, termed as Diamond Fibre. The terms kid, young adult and adult are used to describe different mohairs. As a rule of thumb, the older the goat, the coarser the hair.

Eco credentials: Mohair is a natural and renewable resource. However, guidelines by regional organisations such as National Wool Growers' Association, are in place to ensure wool

production does not put pressure on the environment through overgrazing, desertification and wool treatment chemicals. An example of good practice, Samil is committed to producing ethical, high-quality mohair yarn that is socially and environmentally sustainable.

Fibre properties:Ÿ Excellent tensile strength, resilience and natural elasticityŸ Soft handle and naturally moisture wicking

Applications: Apparel and interior textiles, soft accessories

Mohair


Fibre background: Alpacas and llamas are camelids, yielding hollow-core fibres that make soft and insulating textiles. Alpaca fibre predominantly derives from South America, and llamas originating from North America migrated to South America. Also a camelid, vic�nas roamed the rocky terrains of the Andes in Peru millions of years ago. Due to the tiny and infrequent yield, vic�na is the most expensive wool fibre available.

Eco credentials: Since the demand for cheap cashmere has grown exponentially with damaging environmental effects, alpaca and llama are often noted as a more sustainable fibre choice

due to higher efficiency and lower impact on the land. Ethical production is key, with companies such as Inca Tops and Loro Piana providing examples of best practice for both animals and communities.

Fibre properties:Ÿ Strength and thermal insulation properties from hollow

core fibresŸ HypoallergenicŸ Regarded as the finest and softest wool fibre

Applications:Luxurious apparel textiles and accessories, interior textiles

Vicuna, Llama & Alpaca


Fibre background: Leather refers to the hide of an animal that has been tanned, transforming collagen proteins within the skin in the process. Most commonly from cattle and pigs, other soft leathers from lamb and deer are used including exotic reptile, ostrich and stingray within the luxury or niche markets.

Eco credentials: While the natural origin of leather has a low environmental impact, tanning can be harmful to both workers and the environment. Chrome-free aldehyde tanning and vegetable tanning are more eco. Without proper management, deforestation from animal grazing has a negative impact.

Whether a by-product of the food industry or not, factory farming can raise ethical concerns around crowding, deprivation and cruelty. Food industry byproducts, such as fish skin and vegan fruit biowaste, offer eco-alternatives.

Fibre properties:Ÿ Soft, resilient, strong and resistant to tearingŸ Heat insulation and thermostatic properties

Applications: Apparel, footwear, accessories, automotive and home furnishings

Leather


Fibre background: Fur is commonly from farmed animals such as fox, rabbit, chinchilla and mink, as well as assable, seal and otter. Faux fur is predominantly made from acrylic; however, cellulosic versions are available.

Eco credentials: The fur industry has been widely criticised for decades, questioning the ethics and animal welfare of farmed animals. Under pressure from organisations such as PETA, Humane Society International and the Fur Free Alliance, many countries have banned or phased out the fur trade. Ecologically, fur farms have a big impact on the

environment, using toxic chemicals to treat pelts and producing huge amounts of phosphorus. Although cruelty-free, synthetic faux furs are non-biodegradable, often made from non-renewable petrochemicals. Recycled PET faux furs from HoodLamb and cellulosics offer a lower-impact, ethical alternative.

Fibre properties:Ÿ Varying softness and insulation, dependent on animal

and hair type

Applications: outerwear apparel, trimmings, accessories

Fur


Fibre background: Also referred to as Spandex, polyurethane is a synthetic polymer developed by IG Farben in Germany in 1937, then reiterated over 20years by chemical companies DuPont, BASF and Dow Chemical. Most polyurethanes are thermosetting polymers that don't melt under heat, although thermoplastic polyurethanes are also available. Polyurethane is most commonly blended with nylon and polyester in covered yarn or knitted and woven applications. Polyurethane is also used as a fabric coating on synthetic bases.

Eco credentials: Polyurethane is not biodegradable. However, bio-derived

Spandex by Invista have a lower impact as renewable; natural resources are used as raw materials. Oils used in the preparation of polyols for more eco polyurethanes include soybean, cotton or neem seed and castor.

Fibre properties:Ÿ High stretch, durability and wrinkle resistantŸ Waterproof when applied as a fabric coating

Applications: Apparel textiles, accessories, home furnishings, cushioning foam, building insulation, vegan leather

Polyurethane


Fibre background: There are two main types of faux leather: polyurethane (PU) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC), a synthetic plastic polymer. Known as pleather, PU and PVC are commonly used as plastic surface coatings applied to a fabric base.

Eco credentials: Both PU and PVC plastics break down in time, but will not degrade which can be extremely hazardous for animals. Noted by Greenpeace as “single most environmentally damaging type of plastic”, PVC produces dioxins and uses highly toxic chlorine. PU is preferable, with a far lower toxic

content. Recycled PU fabrics and chemical reduction effects offer sustainable scope. PU manufacturer Ultrafabrics uses a closed-loop production system to reduce negative impact, recycling excess chemicals in the process.

Fibre properties:Ÿ Waterproof and rainproofŸ Chemical resistant, versatility and flexibility

Applications: PVC is less frequently used. PU is used for accessories, footwear and interiors.

Pleather


Fibre background: Cellulose acetate fibre is one of the earliest synthetic fibres based on cotton or tree pulp, created when cellulose reacts with acids. Fine cellulose acetate filaments are extruded in acetone. Acetate has been replaced by cheaper petro-based fibres such as nylon and polyester in recent decades.

Eco credentials: Acetate fibre production requires extensive chemical and water processing which has a negative environmental impact. Naia by Eastman is making headway into reducing such impact, sourcing wood pulp from sustainably managed

forests and production towards a closed-loop process. Cupro, a cotton-based cellulosic fibre by Asahi Kasei also has biodegradable properties and focuses on low-impact production.

Fibre properties:Ÿ Excellent drape, softness and silky sheenŸ Shrink, moth and mildew resistantŸ Takes dye well, high colour fastness

Applications:Apparel textiles and trims, apparel linings, home furnishings

Acetate


Fibre background: Viscose, rayon and Lyocell are regenerated cellulosic fibres made from wood pulp through processes involving varying chemical compositions. While similar in composition, the fibres differ in characteristics due to filament structure and various manufacturing processes.

Eco credentials: While all three fibres are fully biodegradable, raw material sourcing and varying production methods affect the sustainable credentials of each fibre. In comparison to viscose, Lyocell uses non-toxic chemicals during production

and uses a closed-loop process, lowering environmental impacts. Lenzing is fore-runners in the production of sustainable cellulosics, committed to using wood from renewable sources and dramatic water reduction. Innovations include Tencel™ Luxe and Refibra™.

Fibre properties:Ÿ Soft handle and excellent drapeŸ High tensile strength

Applications: Apparel textiles and trims, accessories, interior textiles

Viscose, Rayon & Lyocell


Fibre background:Polyester and polyamide were developed mid20th century. Both are polymer fibres, chemically formulated, known as synthetics, and without any natural source of fibre. They are inexpensive, durable and easy care. Nylon is branded DuPont polyamide.

Eco credentials: Polyester/polyamide are neither sustainable nor biodegradable. The production uses nitrous oxide – a potent gas – and large amounts of water and energy. Recycling is the best route, with the activewear industry jumping on board with recycled polyesters. Econyl has developed eco-

friendly nylon made from recycled plastics, while Ploucquet offers developments of recycled and recyclable polyester.

Fibre properties: PolyesterŸ Moisture resistant, quick dry and wicking, lightweight

Fibre properties: Polyamide Ÿ Highly absorbent dries more slowlyŸ Softer hand-feel than polyester

Applications:Apparel textiles, hosiery, accessories

Polyester & Nylon

About Massimo Ottone:Massimo Ottone is an Italian entrepreneur. He has worked in the furniture industry within the family business and later setting up his own enterprise. He is also been a member of

the Board of Young Entrepreneurs within Federlegno (Italian Federation of Wood-Furniture Industry Associations). Over years he has collaborated with various brands in

industries like hotellerie, hospitality and residential furniture. He is into Oriental bushido philosophy and actively follows its seven virtues that has helped him in being a generous

and altruistic soul trying to help the needy. Read more on his website: www.massimoottone.com

fibre glossary sustainability...

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