2k12 owners manual

8/9/2019 2k12 Owners Manual

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THANK YOUfor buying a Kona. A bicycle is a wonderfultool for transportation and recreation. We hope that youwill ride it often and have a great deal of use and enjoy-ment from your purchase. This manual contains importantsafety, performance and maintenance information.

IMPORTANT: Read this manual before taking your rst

ride on your new bicycle, and keep this manual handyfor future reference.

NOTE: This manual is not intended as a comprehensiveuse, service repair or service manual. Please see yourdealer for all service, repairs or maintenance. Your dealermay also be able to refer you to classes, clinics or bookson bicycle use, service or maintenance.

ABOUT THIS MANUAL: This owners manual was preparedwith your safety as our rst consideration. A great dealof the text was prepared by a group of US-based bicycle

manufacturers and distributors. Those sections are copy-righted by Kona Bicycle Company and the other companiesusing the same text, and may not be reproduced withoutthe written consent of Kona Bicycle Company.

In addition to safety, many bicycle manufacturers and dis-tributors are concerned with the alarming number of productliability cases brought forwards over the last 5 years. BecauseAmerican and Canadian attorneys are entitled to mount thesecases on a contingency basis, many larger manufacturersand distributors have been marked as deep pocket targets forwhat in many cases, turn out to have been the responsibility

of the bicycle rider. Even the most frivolous cases are costlyto the manufacturer and distributor, which additionally resultin higher insurance premiums, and eventually, higher bicycleprices. The Consumer Product and Safety Commission hasundertaken a variety of studies that nd that, for the mostpart, bicycles are well-made and safe vehicles.

These studies conclude that many serious and minor ac-cidents could be prevented by the use of helmets. It shouldalso be noted that ACCIDENTS CAN ALSO BE PREVENTEDBY PROPER INSTRUCTION OF BICYCLE USE AND MAINTE-NANCE. Your Kona dealer will provide you with basic instruc-tions to get you safely started. In addition, we stronglyrecommend that YOU READ THIS ENTIRE MANUAL PAYING

PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS.So hang in there while you wade through the legalese.Yes we are trying to protect ourselves against unreasonablelawsuits, but we are concerned about your safety. That iswhy we add a great deal of general and Kona-specicinformation about safe and enjoyable cycling instead ofblandly reproducing a generic owners manual.

Kona was started in 1988 by a group of cyclists dedicatedto producing high-quality custom bikes based on our long-time experience in the sport and business of cycling. Konasheadquarters are located in the temperate rain forest of thePacic Northwest region of the United States and Canadaan area that is ideal for developing and testing durablebicycles that provide superior performance. The KonaDesign Group within our company, is responsible on aday-to-day basis for testing new frames and componentsthat are worthy of being incorporated into our bicycles.We believe in constantly improving and rening ourbicycles and components and welcome your commentsand complaints. We believe that giving good service to ourcustomers is just as important as designing and makinggoodbicycles. It is our mission to help make your cycling

experiences safe and enjoyable and part of that missionis to make it possible for you to do that as frequently aspossible. If for any reason you are not satised with thequality of any part of your bicycle or the service given toyou by Kona or one of our dealers, please let us know.

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L GENERAL WARNING:

Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury anddamage. By choosing to ride a bicycle, you assumethe responsibility for that risk, so you need to know and to practice the rules of safe and responsible ridingand of proper use and maintenance. Proper use andmaintenance of your bicycle reduces risk of injury.

This Manual contains many Warnings and Cautionsconcerning the consequences of failure to maintainor inspect your bicycle and of failure to follow safecycling practices.

The combination of the safety alert symbol andthe word WARNINGindicates a potentially hazardoussituation which, if not avoided, could result in seriousinjury or death.

The combination of the safety alert symbol andthe word CAUTIONindicates a potentially hazardous

situation which, if not avoided, may result in minor ormoderate injury, or is an alert against unsafe practices.

The word CAUTIONused without the safety alertsymbol indicates a situation which, if not avoided, couldresult in serious damage to the bicycle or the voiding ofyour warranty.

Many of the Warnings and Cautions say you may losecontrol and fall. Because any fall can result in seriousinjury or even death, we do not always repeat thewarning of possible injury or death.

Because it is impossible to anticipate every situation orcondition which can occur while riding, this Manual makesno representation about the safe use of the bicycle underall conditions. There are risks associated with the use ofany bicycle which cannot be predicted or avoided, andwhich are the sole responsibility of the rider. 2

A Special Note for Parents:

As a parent or guardian, you are responsible for theactivities and safety of your minor child, and that includesmaking sure that the bicycle is properly tted to the child;that it is in good repair and safe operating condition; thatyou and your child have learned and understand the safe

operation of the bicycle; and that you and your child havelearned, understand and obey not only the applicablelocal motor vehicle, bicycle and trafc laws, but also thecommon sense rules of safe and responsible bicycling.As a parent, you should read this manual, as well asreview its warnings and the bicycles functions and oper-ating procedures with your child, before letting your childride the bicycle.

WARNING: Make sure that your child always wearsan approved bicycle helmet when riding; but also makesure that your child understands that a bicycle helmet is

for bicycling only, and must be removed when not riding.A helmet must not be worn while playing, in play areas,on playground equipment, while climbing trees, or atany time while not riding a bicycle. Failure to follow thiswarning could result in serious injury or death.

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1. FIRST BEFORE YOU RIDE

NOTE: We strongly urge you to read this Manual in itsentirety before your rst ride; but at the very least,read and make sure that you understand each pointin this section, and refer to the cited sections onany issue which you dont completely understand.

Please note that not all bicycles have all of the featuresdescribed in this Manual. Ask your dealer to point outthe features of your bicycle.

A) BIKE FIT

1.Is your bike the right size? To check, see Section 3.A.If your bicycle is too large or too small for you, you maylose control and fall. If your new bike is not the right size,ask your dealer to exchange it before you ride it.

2.Is the saddle at the right height? To check, see Section3.B. If you adjust your saddle height, make sure that you

follow the Minimum Insertion instructions in Section 3.B.

3.Are saddle and seatpost securely clamped? A correctlytightened saddle will allow no saddle movement in anydirection [see Section 3.B for details].

4.Are the stem and handlebars at the right height foryou? If not, see Section 3.C on what you can do about it.

5.Can you comfortably operate the brakes? If not, youmay be able to adjust their angle and reach [see Section3.D and 3.E for details].

6.Do you fully understand how to operate your newbicycle? If not, before your rst ride, have yourdealer explain any functions or features which youdo not understand.

B) SAFETY FIRST!1.Always wear an approved helmet when riding yourbike, and follow the helmet manufacturers instructionsfor t, use and care of your helmet.

2.Do you have all the other required and recommendedsafety equipment? See Section 2. Its your responsibility

to familiarize yourself with the laws of the areas whereyou ride, and to comply with all applicable laws.

3.Do you know how to correctly operate your wheel quickreleases? Check Section 4.A.1 to make sure. Riding withan improperly adjusted wheel quick release can cause thewheel to wobble or disengage from the bicycle, and causeserious injury or death.

4.If your bike has toeclips and straps or clipless step-inpedals, make sure you know how they work [see Section4.E]. These pedals require special techniques and skills.

Follow the pedal manufacturers instructions for use,adjustment and care.

5.Does your bike have suspension? If so, check Section4.F. Suspension can change the way a bicycle performs.Follow the suspension manufacturers instructions for use,adjustment and care.

6.Do you have toe overlap? On smaller framed bicyclesyour toe or toeclip may be able to contact the front wheelwhen a pedal is all the way forward and the wheel isturned [see Section 4.E.1].

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C) MECHANICAL SAFETY CHECK

Routinely check the condition of your bicycle beforeevery ride.

Nuts, bolts, screws & other fasteners:Becausemanufacturers use a wide variety of fastener sizes and

shapes made in a variety of materials, often differing bymodel and component, it is not possible for this Manual tospecify correct torque (tightening force) for the fastenerson your bicycle. We can tell you the importance of correcttorque, but not the specic torque required for eachfastener on your bicycle. To correctly torque a fastener,a torque wrench must be used. A professional bicyclemechanic with a torque wrench should torque the fastenerson you bicycle. If you choose to work on your own bicycleyou must get correct tightening torque specicationsfrom the bicycle or component manufacturer or from yourdealer. If you need to make an adjustment at home or in

the eld, we urge you to exercise care, and to have thefasteners you worked on checked by your dealer as soonas possible.

WARNING: Correct tightening force on fasteners nuts, bolts, screws on your bicycle is important.Too little force, and the fastener may not holdsecurely. Too much force, and the fastener can stripthreads, stretch, deform or break. Either way, incorrecttightening force can result in component failure, whichcan cause you to loose control and fall.

Make sure nothing is loose. Lift the front wheel off theground by two or three inches, then let it bounce on theground. Anything sound, feel or look loose? Do a visualand tactile inspection of the whole bike. Any loose partsor accessories? If so, secure them. If youre not sure, asksomeone with experience to check.

Tires & Wheels:Make sure tires are correctly inated[see Section 4.H.1]. Check by putting one hand on thesaddle, one on the intersection of the handlebars andstem, then bouncing your weight on the bike whilelooking at tire deection. Compare what you see with howit looks when you know the tires are correctly inated;and adjust if necessary. Tires in good shape? Spin each

wheel slowly and look for cuts in the tread and sidewall.Replace damaged tires before riding the bike. Wheelstrue? Spin each wheel and check for brake clearance andside-to-side wobble. If a wheel wobbles side to side evenslightly, or rubs against or hits the brake pads, take thebike to a qualied bike shop to have the wheel trued.

CAUTION: Wheels must be true for the brakes towork effectively. Wheel truing is a skill which requiresspecial tools and experience. Do not attempt to true awheel unless you have the knowledge, experience andtools needed to do the job correctly.

Wheel rims clean and undamaged? Make sure the rimsare clean and undamaged at the tire bead and, if youhave rim brakes, along the braking surface. Check tomake sure that any rim wear indicator marking is notvisible at any point on the wheel rim.

WARNING: Bicycle wheel rims are subject to wear.Ask your dealer about wheel rim wear. Some wheelrims have a rim wear indicator which becomes visibleas the rims braking surface wears. A visible rim wearindicator on the side of the wheel rim is an indication

that the wheel rim has reached its maximum usablelife. Riding a wheel that is at the end of its usable lifecan result in wheel failure, which can cause you toloose control and fall.

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Brakes:Check the brakes for proper operation [seeSections 4.C]. Squeeze the brake levers. Are the brakequick-releases closed? All control cables seated andsecurely engaged? Do the brake pads touch the wheel rimwithin an inch of brake lever movement? Can you apply fullbraking force at the levers without having them touch thehandlebar? If not, your brakes need adjustment. Do not

ride the bike until the brakes are properly adjustedby a professional bicycle mechanic.

Wheel retention system: Make sure the front andrear wheels are correctly secured. See Section 4.ASeat post: If your seat post has an over-center cam actionfastener for easy height adjustment, check that it is properlyadjusted and in the locked position. See Section 4.B.

Handlebar and Saddle Alignment:Make sure thesaddle and handlebar stem are parallel to the bikescenter line and clamped tight enough so that you canttwist them out of alignment [see Sections 3.B and 3.C].

If not, align and tighten them.

Handlebar Ends:Make sure the handlebar grips aresecure and in good condition. If not, replace them. Makesure the handlebar ends and extensions are plugged. Ifnot, plug them before you ride. If the handlebars havebar end extensions, make sure they are clamped tightenough so you cant twist them.

WARNING: Loose or damaged handlebar gripsor extensions can cause you to lose control and fall.Unplugged handlebars or extensions can cut your

body, and can cause serious injury in an otherwiseminor accident.

VERY IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: Please also readand become thoroughly familiar with the importantinformation on the lifespan of your bicycle and itscomponents inAppendix Bon Page 35.

D) FIRST RIDE

When you buckle on your helmet and go for your rstfamiliarization ride on your new bicycle, be sure to picka controlled environment, away from cars, other cyclists,obstacles or other hazards. Ride to become familiar withthe controls, features and performance of your new bike.

Familiarize yourself with the braking actionof the bike[see Section 4.C]. Test the brakes at slow speed, puttingyour weight toward the rear and gently applying thebrakes, rear brake rst. Sudden or excessive applicationof the front brake could pitch you over the handlebars.Applying brakes too hard can lock up a wheel, which couldcause you to lose control and fall. Skidding is an exampleof what can happen when a wheel locks up.

If your bicycle has toeclipsor clipless pedals, practicegetting in and out of the pedals [see Section 1.B.4 andSection 4.E].

If your bike has suspension, familiarize yourself with howthe suspension responds to brake application and riderweight shifts [see Section 1.B.5 and Section 4.F].

Practice shifting the gears[see Section 4.D]. Rememberto never move the shifter while pedaling backward,nor pedal backwards after having moved the shifter.This could jam the chain and cause serious damage tothe bicycle.

Check out the handling and response of the bike; andcheck the comfort.

If you have any questions, or if you feel anythingabout the bike is not as it should be, take the bikeback to your dealer for advice.

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L 2. SAFETY

A) THE BASICS

WARNING: The area in which you ride may requirespecic safety devices. It is your responsibility tofamiliarize yourself with the laws of the state where you

ride and to comply with all applicable laws, includingproperly equipping yourself and your bike as the lawrequires. Observe all local bicycle laws and regulations.Observe regulations about bicycle lighting, licensing ofbicycles, riding on sidewalks, laws regulating bike pathand trail use, helmet laws, child carrier laws, specialbicycle trafc laws. Its your responsibility to know andobey the laws.

1.Always wear a cycling helmet which meetsthe latest certication standards and followthe helmet manufacturers instructions for

t, use and care of your helmet. Most seriousbicycle injuries involve head injuries whichmight have been avoided if the rider hadworn a helmet.

WARNING: Failure to wear a helmet when ridingmay result in serious injury or death.

2.Always do the Mechanical Safety Check before youget on a bike[see Section 1.C] .3.Be thoroughly familiar with the controls of your bicy-cle: brakes [see Section 4.C]; pedals [see Section 4.E];shifting [see Section 4.D].

4.Be careful to keep body parts and other objects awayfrom the sharp teeth of chainrings; the moving chain; theturning pedals and cranks; and the spinning wheels ofyour bicycle. 7

5.Always wear:

Shoes that will stay on your feet and will grip thepedals. Never ride barefoot or while wearing sandals.

Bright, visible clothing that is not so loose that it can betangled in the bicycle or snagged by objects at the side ofthe road or trail.

Protective eyewear, to protect against airborne dirt,dust and bugs tinted when the sun is bright, clear whenits not.

6.Dont jump with your bike. Jumping a bike, particularlya BMX or mountain bike, can be fun; but it can puthuge and unpredictable stress on the bicycle and itscomponents. Riders who insist on jumping their bikesrisk serious damage, to their bicycles as well as tothemselves. Before you attempt to jump, do stunt ridingor race with your bike, read and understand Section 2.F.

7.Ride at a speed appropriate for conditions. Increased

speed means higher risk.

B) RIDING SAFETY1.Obey all Rules of the Road and all local trafc laws.

2.You are sharing the road or the path with others motorists, pedestrians and other cyclists. Respecttheir rights.

3.Ride defensively. Always assume that others do notsee you.4.Look ahead, and be ready to avoid:

Vehicles slowing or turning, entering the road or yourlane ahead of you, or coming up behind you.

Parked car doors opening.

Pedestrians stepping out.

Children or pets playing near the road.6


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Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks, expansionjoints, road or sidewalk construction, debris and otherobstructions that could cause you to swerve into trafc,catch your wheel or otherwise cause you to lose controland have an accident.

The many other hazards and distractions which canoccur on a bicycle ride.

5.Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated bike pathsor as close to the edge of the road as possible, in the direc-tion of trafc ow or as directed by local governing laws.

6.Stop at stop signs and trafc lights; slow down andlook both ways at street intersections. Remember that abicycle always loses in a collision with a motor vehicle,so be prepared to yield even if you have the right of way.

7.Use approved hand signals for turning and stopping.

8.Never ride with headphones. They mask trafc sounds andemergency vehicle sirens distract you from concentrating onwhats going on around you, and their wires can tangle inthe moving parts of the bicycle, causing you to lose control.

9.Never carry a passenger, unless it is a small childwearing an approved helmet and secured in a correctlymounted child carrier or a child-carrying trailer.

10.Never carry anything which obstructs your vision oryour complete control of the bicycle, or which couldbecome entangled in the moving parts of the bicycle.

11.Never hitch a ride by holding on to another vehicle.

12.Dont do stunts, wheelies or jumps. If you intend todo stunts, wheelies, jumps or go racing with your bikedespite our advice not to, read Section 2.F, Downhill,Stunt or Competition Biking, now. Think carefully aboutyour skills before deciding to take the large risks that gowith this kind of riding.

13.Dont weave through trafc or make any moves thatmay surprise people with whom you are sharing the road.

14.Observe and yield the right of way.

15.Never ride your bicycle while under the inuence ofalcohol or drugs.

16.If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when

visibility is obscured, at dusk or in the dark, or whenextremely tired. Each of these conditions increases therisk of accident.

C) OFF ROAD SAFETYWe recommend that children not ride on rough terrainunless they are accompanied by an adult.

1.The variable conditions and hazards of off-road ridingrequire close attention and specic skills. Start slowly oneasier terrain and build up your skills. If your bike hassuspension, the increased speed you may develop alsoincreases your risk of losing control and falling. Get toknow how to handle your bike safely before tryingincreased speed or more difcult terrain.

2.Wear safety gear appropriate to the kind of riding youplan to do.

3.Dont ride alone in remote areas. Even when ridingwith others, make sure that someone knows where youregoing and when you expect to be back.

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4.Always take along some kind of identication, so thatpeople know who you are in case of an accident; and takealong a couple of dollars in cash for a candy bar, a cooldrink or an emergency phone call.

5.Yield right of way to pedestrians and animals. Ride ina way that does not frighten or endanger them, and stayfar enough away so that their unexpected moves dont

endanger you.6.Be prepared. If something goes wrong while youreriding off-road, help may not be close.

7.Before you attempt to jump, do stunt riding or racewith your bike, read and understand Section 2.F.

Off Road RespectObey the local laws regulating where and how you canride off-road, and respect private property. You may besharing the trail with others hikers, equestrians, othercyclists. Respect their rights. Stay on the designatedtrail. Dont contribute to erosion by riding in mud or withunnecessary sliding. Dont disturb the ecosystem bycutting your own trail or shortcut through vegetation orstreams. It is your responsibility to minimize your impacton the environment. Leave things as you found them;and always take out everything you brought in.

D) WET WEATHER RIDING

WARNING: Wet weather impairs traction, brakingand visibility, both for the bicyclist and for othervehicles sharing the road. The risk of an accident is

dramatically increased in wet conditions.

Under wet conditions, the stopping power of your brakes(as well as the brakes of other vehicles sharing the road)is dramatically reduced and your tires dont grip nearlyas well. This makes it harder to control speed and easier

to lose control. To make sure that you can slow down andstop safely in wet conditions, ride more slowly and applyyour brakes earlier and more gradually than you wouldunder normal, dry conditions [see also Section 4.C].

E) NIGHT RIDING

Riding a bicycle at night is many times more dangerousthan riding during the day. A bicyclist is very difcult formotorists and pedestrians to see. Therefore, childrenshould never ride at dawn, at dusk or at night. Adultswho chose to accept the greatly increased risk of ridingat dawn, at dusk or at night need to take extra care bothriding and choosing specialized equipment which helpsreduce that risk. Consult your dealer about night ridingsafety equipment.

WARNING: Reectors are not a substitute forrequired lights. Riding at dawn, at dusk, at night or

at other times of poor visibility without an adequatebicycle lighting system and without reectors isdangerous and may result in serious injury or death.

Bicycle reectors are designed to pick up and reectstreet lights and car lights in a way that may help you tobe seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist.

CAUTION: Check reectors and their mountingbrackets regularly to make sure that they are clean,straight, unbroken and securely mounted. Have yourdealer replace damaged reectors and straighten or

tighten any that are bent or loose.

The mounting brackets of front and rear reectors areoften designed as brake straddle cable safety catcheswhich prevent the straddle cable from catching on the tiretread if the cable jumps out of its yoke or breaks.8


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WARNING: Do not remove the front or rearreectors or reector brackets from your bicycle.They are an integral part of the bicycles safetysystem. Removing the reectors may reduce yourvisibility to others using the roadway. Being struck byother vehicles may result in serious injury or death.The reector brackets may protect you from the brake

straddle cable catching on the tire in the event ofbrake cable failure. If a brake straddle cable catcheson the tire, it can cause the wheel to stop suddenly,causing you to loose control and fall.

If you choose to ride under conditions of poor visibility,check and be sure you comply with all local laws aboutnight riding, and take the following strongly recommend-ed additional precautions:

Purchase and install battery or generator powered headand tail lights which meet all regulatory requirements and

provide adequate visibility. Wear light colored, reective clothing and accessories,such as a reective vest, reective arm and leg bands,reective stripes on your helmet, ashing lights attachedto your body and/or your bicycle ... any reective deviceor light source that moves will help you get the attentionof approaching motorists, pedestrians and other trafc.

Make sure your clothing or anything you may be carry-ing on the bicycle does not obstruct a reector or light.

Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with correctlypositioned and securely mounted reectors.

While riding at dawn, at dusk or at night: Ride slowly.

Avoid dark areas and areas of heavy or fast-moving trafc.

Avoid road hazards.

If possible, ride on familiar routes.

If riding in trafc:

Be predictable. Ride so that drivers can see you andpredict your movements.

Be alert. Ride defensively and expect the unexpected.

If you plan to ride in trafc often, ask your dealerabout trafc safety classes or a good book on bicycletrafc safety.

F) EXTREME, STUNT OR COMPETITION RIDING

Whether you call itAggro, Hucking, Freeride, North Shore,Downhill, Jumping, Stunt Riding, Racingor something else:by engaging in this sort of extreme, aggressive riding youvoluntarily assume an increased risk of injury or death.

Not all bicycles are designed for these types of riding,and those that are may not be suitable for all types ofaggressive riding. Check with your dealer or the bicyclesmanufacturer about the suitability of your bicycle before

engaging in extreme riding.When riding fast down hill, you can reach speeds seen onmotorcycles, and therefore face similar hazards and risks.Have your bicycle and equipment carefully inspected by aqualied mechanic and be sure it is in perfect condition.Consult with expert riders and race ofcials on conditionsand equipment advisable at the site where you plan to ride.Wear appropriate safety gear, including an approved fullface helmet, full nger gloves, and body armor. Ultimately,it is your responsibility to have proper equipment and to befamiliar with course conditions.

WARNING: Although many catalogs,advertisements and articles about bicycling depictriders engaged in extreme riding, this activity isextremely dangerous, increases your risk of injuryor death, and increases the severity of any injury. 9


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L Remember that the action depicted is being performedby professionals with many years of training andexperience. Know your limits and always wear ahelmet and other appropriate safety gear. Even withstate-of-the-art protective safety gear, you could beseriously injured or killed when jumping, stunt riding,riding downhill at speed or in competition.

CAUTION: Bicycles and bicycle parts havelimitations with regard to strength and integrity, andthis type of riding can exceed those limitations.

We recommend against this type of riding because of theincreased risks; but if you choose to take the risk, at least:

Take lessons from a competent instructor rst.

Start with easy learning exercises and slowly developyour skills before trying more difcult or dangerous riding

Use only designated areas for stunts, jumping, racing orfast downhill riding

Wear a full face helmet, safety pads and othersafety gear.

Understand and recognize that the stresses imposed onyour bike by this kind of activity may break or damageparts of the bicycle and void the warranty.. Take your bicycle to your dealer if anything breaks orbends. Do not ride your bicycle when any part is damaged.

If you ride downhill at speed, do stunt riding or ride incompetition, know the limits of your skill and experience.Ultimately, avoiding injury is your responsibility.

G) CHANGING COMPONENTS ORADDING ACCESSORIES

There are many components and accessories availableto enhance the comfort, performance and appearance of

your bicycle. However, if you change components or addaccessories, you do so at your own risk. The bicyclesmanufacturer may not have tested that component oraccessory for compatibility, reliability or safety on yourbicycle. Before installing any component or accessory,including a different size tire, make sure that it iscompatible with your bicycle by checking with your dealer.

Be sure to read, understand and follow the instructionsthat accompany the products you purchase for yourbicycle. See also Appendix B [p.35].

WARNING: Failure to conrm compatibility,properly install, operate and maintain any componentor accessory can result in serious injury or death.

CAUTION: Changing the components on yourbike may void the warranty. Refer to your warranty,and check with your dealer before changing thecomponents on your bike.

3. FIT

NOTE: Correct t is an essential element of bicyclingsafety, performance and comfort. Making theadjustments to your bicycle which result in correctt for your body and riding conditions requiresexperience, skill and special tools. Always have yourdealer make the adjustments on your bicycle; or, if youhave the experience, skill and tools, have your dealercheck your work before riding.

WARNING: If your bicycle does not t properly,you may lose control and fall. If your new bike doesntt, ask your dealer to exchange it before you ride it.

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B) SADDLE POSITION

Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor ingetting the most performance and comfort from yourbicycle. If the saddle position is not comfortable for you,see your dealer, who has the tools and skill to change it.The saddle can be adjusted in three directions:

1.Up and down adjustment.To check for correctsaddle height [Fig. 3]:

sit on the saddle;

place one heelon a pedal;

rotate the crank untilthe pedal with your heelon it is in the down posi-tion and the crank arm isparallel to the seat tube.

If your leg is notcompletely straight andjust touching the centerof the pedal, your saddleheight needs to be adjusted. If your hips must rock for theheel to reach the pedal, the saddle is too high.

If your leg is bent at the knee with your heel on the pedal,the saddle is too low.

Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal ridingposition and to show you how to make this adjustment. If you

choose to make your own saddle height adjustment:- loosen the seat post clamp- raise or lower the seat post in the seat tube- make sure the saddle is straight fore and aft- re-tighten the seat post clamp to the recommendedtorque (Appendix D or the manufacturers instructions).

A) STANDOVER HEIGHT

1. Diamond framebicyclesStandover height is thebasic element of bike t.It is the distance fromthe ground to the top

of the bicycles frame atthat point where yourcrotch is when straddlingthe bike. To checkfor correct standoverheight, straddle the bikewhile wearing the kindof shoes in which youllbe riding, and bouncevigorously on yourheels. If your crotch touches the frame, the bike is too big

for you. Dont even ride the bike around the block. A bikewhich you ride only on paved surfaces and never takeoff-road should give you a minimum standover heightclearance of two inches (5 cm). A bike that youll ride onunpaved surfaces should give you a minimum of threeinches (7.5 cm) of standover height clearance. And a bikethat youll use off road should give you four inches(10 cm) or more of clearance.

2. Step-through frame bicyclesStandover height does not apply to bicycles with step-through frames. Instead, the limiting dimension is

determined by saddle height range. You must be ableto adjust your saddle position as described in B withoutexceeding the limits set by the height of the top of theseat tube and the Minimum Insertion or MaximumExtension mark on the seat post. 11


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Once the saddle is at the correctheight, make sure that the seatpostdoes not project from the framebeyond its Minimum Insertion orMaximum Extension mark [Fig. 4].

If your bike is a Supreme Operator,Operator, Entourage DL or Entourage,

it has an interrupted seat tube.You must also make sure thatthe seat post is far enough intothe frame so that you can touchit through the bottom of theinterrupted seat tube with the tipof your nger without insertingyour nger beyond its rst knuckle[see Fig. 5].

WARNING: If your seatpost projects from the framebeyond the MinimumInsertion or MaximumExtension mark [see Fig.4] or you cannot touch thebottom of the seat postthrough the bottom of theinterrupted seat tube withthe tip of your nger withoutinserting your nger beyondits rst knuckle [see Fig. 5],the seat post may break,which could cause you to losecontrol and fall.

2. Front and back adjustment. The saddle can be adjustedforward or back to help you get the optimal positionon the bike. Ask your dealer to set the saddle for youroptimal riding position and to show you how to make thisadjustment. If you choose to make your own front andback adjustment, make sure that the clamp mechanismis clamping on the straight part of the saddle rails and is

not touching the curved part of the rails, and that you areusing the recommended torque on the clamping fastener(s)(Appendix D or the manufacturers instructions).

3. Saddle angle adjustment. Most people prefer a horizon-tal saddle; but some riders like the saddle nose angled upor down just a little. Your dealer can adjust saddle angleor teach you how to do it. If you choose to make yourown saddle angle adjustment and you have a single boltsaddle clamp on your seat post, it is critical that you loosenthe clamp bolt sufciently to allow any serrations on themechanism to disengage before changing the saddles

angle, and then that the serrations fully re-engage beforeyou tighten the clamp bolt to the recommended torque(Appendix D or the manufacturers instructions).

WARNING: When making saddle angle adjustmentswith a single bolt saddle clamp, always check tomake sure that the serrations on the mating surfacesof the clamp are not worn. Worn serrations on theclamp can allow the saddle to move, causing you tolose control and fall. Always tighten fasteners to thecorrect torque. Bolts that are too tight can stretch anddeform. Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue.

Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of the bolt,causing you to lose control and fall.

NOTE: If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension seatpost, the suspension mechanism may require periodic

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service or maintenance. Ask your dealer for recommendedservice intervals for your suspension seat post.

Small changes in saddle position can have a substantialeffect on performance and comfort. To nd your bestsaddle position, make only one adjustment at a time.

WARNING: After any saddle adjustment, be sure that

the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly tightenedbefore riding. A loose saddle clamp or seat post bindercan cause damage to the seat post, or can cause you tolose control and fall. A correctly tightened saddle adjust-ing mechanism will allow no saddle movement in anydirection. Periodically check to make sure that the saddleadjusting mechanism is properly tightened.

If, in spite of carefully adjusting the saddle height, tilt andfore-and-aft position, your saddle is still uncomfortable, youmay need a different saddle design. Saddles, like people,come in many different shapes, sizes and resilience. Yourdealer can help you select a saddle which, when correctly

adjusted for your body and riding style, will be comfortable.WARNING: Some people have claimed that

extended riding with a saddle which is incorrectlyadjusted or which does not support your pelvic areacorrectly can cause short-term or long-term injury tonerves and blood vessels, or even impotence. If yoursaddle causes you pain, numbness or other discomfort,listen to your body and stop riding until you see yourdealer about saddle adjustment or a different saddle.

C) HANDLEBAR HEIGHT AND ANGLEYour bike is equipped either with a threadless stem (g.6), which clamps on to the outside of the steerer tube, orwith a quill stem (g. 7), which clamps inside the steerertube by way of an expanding binder bolt. If you arent

absolutely sure which typeof stem your bike has, askyour dealer. If your bike has athreadless stem, your dealermay be able to change handlebarheight by moving height adjust-ment spacers from below the

stem to above the stem, or viceversa. Otherwise, youll have toget a stem of different length orrise. Consult your dealer. Do notattempt to do this yourself, asit requires special knowledge. Ifyour bike has a quill stem, youcan ask your dealer to adjust thehandlebar height a bit by adjust-ing stem height. A quill stem hasan etched or stamped mark on itsshaft which designates the stems

Minimum Insertion or Maximum extension. This markmust not be visible above the headset.

WARNING: A quill stem's Minimum Insertion Markmust not be visible above the top of the headset. If thestem is extended beyond the Minimum Insertion Markthe stem may break or damage the fork's steerer tube,which could cause you to lose control and fall.

WARNING: On some bicycles, changing the stemor stem height can affect the tension of the front brakecable, locking the front brake or creating excess cable

slack which can make the front brake inoperable.If the front brake pads move in towards the wheelrim or out away from the wheel rim when the stem orstem height is changed, the brakes must be correctlyadjusted before you ride the bicycle. 13


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Some bicycles are equipped with an adjustable anglestem. If your bicycle has an adjustable angle stem, askyour dealer to show you how to adjust if. Do not attemptto make the adjustment yourself, as changing stem anglemay also require adjustments to the bicycle's controls.

WARNING: Always tighten fasteners to the correcttorque. Bolts that are too tight can stretch and deform.

Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue. Eithermistake can lead to a sudden failure of the bolt, causingyou to lose control and fall.

Your dealer can also change the angle of the handlebaror bar end extensions.

WARNING: An insufciently tightened stem binderbolt, handlebar binder bolt or bar end extension clampingbolt may compromise steering action, which could causeyou to lose control and fall. Place the front wheel ofthe bicycle between your legs and attempt to twist the

handlebar/stem assembly. If you can twist the stem inrelation to the front wheel, turn the handlebars in relationto the stem, or turn the bar end extensions in relation tothe handlebar, the bolts are insufciently tightened.

D) CONTROL POSTION ADJUSTMENTS

The angle of the controls and their position on thehandlebars can be changed. Ask your dealer to make theadjustments for you. If you choose to make your owncontrol lever angle adjustment, be sure to re-tighten theclamp fasteners to the recommended torque (Appendix Dor the manufacturers instructions).

E) BRAKE REACHMany bikes have brake levers which can be adjustedfor reach. If you have small hands or nd it difcult tosqueeze the brake levers, your dealer can either adjustthe reach or t shorter reach brake levers.

WARNING: The shorter the brake lever reach, themore critical it is to have correctly adjusted brakes, sothat full braking power can be applied within availablebrake lever travel. Brake lever travel insufcient toapply full braking power can result in loss of control,which may result in serious injury or death.

4. TECHNICAL INFORMATIONIts important to your safety, performance and enjoymentto understand how things work on your bicycle. We urgeyou to ask your dealer how to do the things described inthis section before you attempt them yourself, and that youhave your dealer check your work before you ride the bike.If you have even the slightest doubt as to whether youunderstand something in this section of the Manual,talk to your dealer.See also Appendix B [p.35]. See alsoAppendix A, C and D.

A. Wheels

Bicycle wheels are designed to be removable for easiertransportation and for repair of a tire puncture. In mostcases, the wheel axles are inserted into slots, calleddropouts in the fork and frame, but some suspensionmountain bikes use what is called a through axle wheelmounting system.

If you have a mountain bike equipped with throughaxle front or rear wheels, make sure that your dealerhas given you the manufacturers instructions, andfollow those when installing or removing a throughaxle wheel. If you dont know what a through axle is,

ask your dealer.Wheels are secured in one of three ways:

A hollow axle with a shaft (skewer) running through itwhich has an adjustable tension nut on one end and14


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an over-center cam on the other (cam action system,g.8 a & b)

A hollow axle with a shaft (skewer) running throughit which has a nut on one end and a tting for a hex key,lock lever or other tightening device on the other (through

bolt, g. 9) Hex nuts or hex key bolts which are threaded on to orinto the hub axle (bolt-on wheel, g. 10)

Your bicycle may be equipped with a different securingmethod for the front wheel than for the rear wheel.

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L Discuss the wheel securing method for your bicycle withyour dealer.

It is very important that you understand the type ofwheel securing method on your bicycle, that you knowhow to secure the wheels correctly, and that you knowhow to apply the correct clamping force that safelysecures the wheel. Ask your dealer to instruct you in

correct wheel removal and installation, and ask him togive you any available manufacturers instructions.

WARNING: Riding with an improperly securedwheel can allow the wheel to wobble or fall off thebicycle, which can cause serious injury or death.Therefore, it is essential that you:

1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you knowhow to install and remove your wheels safely.

2. Understand and apply the correct technique forclamping your wheel in place.

3. Each time, before you ride the bike, check that thewheel is securely clamped.

The clamping action of a correctly secured wheel mustemboss the surfaces of the dropouts.

1. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices

Most bicycles have front forks which utilize a secondarywheel retention device to reduce the risk of the wheeldisengaging from the fork if the wheel is incorrectlysecured. Secondary retention devices are not a substitutefor correctly securing your front wheel.

Secondary retention devices fall into two basic categories:a. The clip-on type is a part which the manufacturer addsto the front wheel hub or front fork.

b. The integral type is molded, cast or machined into theouter faces of the front fork dropouts.

Ask your dealer to explain the particular secondary reten-tion device on your bike.

WARNING: Do not remove or disable the secondaryretention device. As its name implies, it serves as aback-up for a critical adjustment. If the wheel is notsecured correctly, the secondary retention device canreduce the risk of the wheel disengaging from the fork.

Removing or disabling the secondary retention devicemay also void the warranty. Secondary retentiondevices are not a substitute for correctly securing yourwheel. Failure to properly secure the wheel can causethe wheel to wobble or disengage, which could causeyou to loose control and fall, resulting in serious injuryor death.

2. Wheels with cam action systems

There are currently two types of over-center cam wheelretention mechanisms: the traditional over-center cam(g. 8a) and the cam-and-cup system (g. 8b). Both usean over-center cam action to clamp the bikes wheelin place. Your bicycle may have a cam-and-cup frontwheel retention system and a traditional rear wheel camaction system.

a. Adjusting the traditional cam action mechanism (g. 8a)

The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of theover-center cam pushing against one dropout andpulling the tension adjusting nut, by way of the skewer,against the other dropout. The amount of clamping forceis controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the

tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the camlever from rotating increases clamping force; turningit counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever fromrotating reduces clamping force. Less than half a turnof the tension adjusting nut can make the differencebetween safe clamping force and unsafe clamping force.

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WARNING: The full force of the cam action isneeded to clamp the wheel securely. Holding the nutwith one hand and turning the lever like a wing nutwith the other hand until everything is as tight as youcan get it will not clamp a cam action wheel safelyin the dropouts. See also the rst WARNING in thisSection, p. 16.

b. Adjusting the cam-and-cup mechanism (g. 8b)The cam-and-cup system on your front wheel will havebeen correctly adjusted for your bicycle by your dealer.Ask your dealer to check the adjustment every six months.Do not use a cam-and-cup front wheel on any bicycleother than the one for which your dealer adjusted it.

3. Removing and Installing wheels

WARNING: If your bike is equipped with a hubbrake such as a rear coaster brake, front or rear drum,

band or roller brake; or if it has an internal gear rearhub, do not attempt to remove the wheel. The removaland re-installation of most hub brakes and internalgear hubs requires special knowledge. Incorrect re-moval or assembly can result in brake or gear failure,which can cause you to lose control and fall.

CAUTION: If your bike has a disc brake, exercisecare in touching the rotor or caliper. Disc rotors havesharp edges, and both rotor and caliper can get veryhot during use.

a. Removing a disk brake or rim brake Front Wheel(1) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brakesquick-release mechanism to increase the clearancebetween the tire and the brake pads (See Section 4.Cg. 11 through 15).

(2) If your bike has cam action front wheel retention,move the cam lever from the locked or CLOSED positionto the OPEN position (gs. 8a & b). If your bike hasthrough bolt or bolt-on front wheel retention, loosenthe fastener(s) a few turns counter-clockwise using anappropriate wrench, lock key or the integral lever.

(3) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary

retention device, disengage it and go to step (4). If yourfront fork has an integral secondary retention device,and a traditional cam action system (g. 8a) loosen thetension adjusting nut enough to allow removing the wheelfrom the dropouts. If your front wheel uses a cam-and-cup system, (g. 8b) squeeze the cup and cam levertogether while removing the wheel. No rotation of anypart is necessary with the cam-and-cup system.

You may need to tap the top of the wheel with the palmof your hand to release the wheel from the front fork.

b. Installing a disk brake or rim brake Front Wheel

CAUTION: If your bike is equipped with a front diskbrake, be careful not to damage the disk, caliper orbrake pads when re-inserting the disk into the caliper.Never activate a disk brakes control lever unlessthe disk is correctly inserted in the caliper. See alsoSection 4.C.

(1) If your bike has cam action front wheel retention,move the cam lever so that it curves away from thewheel (g. 8b). This is the OPEN position. If your bike has

through bolt or bolt-on front wheel retention, go to thenext step.

(2) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheelbetween the fork blades so that the axle seats rmly atthe top of the fork dropouts. The cam lever, if there is 17


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one, should be on riders left side of the bicycle (g. 8a& b). If your bike has a clip-on type secondary retentiondevice, engage it.

(3) If you have a traditional cam action mechanism:holding the cam lever in the ADJUST position with yourright hand, tighten the tension adjusting nut with yourleft hand until it is nger tight against the fork dropout

(g. 8a). If you have a cam-and-cup system: the nut andcup (g. 8b) will have snapped into the recessed area ofthe fork dropouts and no adjustment should be required.(4) While pushing the wheel rmly to the top of the slotsin the fork dropouts, and at the same time centering thewheel rim in the fork:(a) With a cam action system, move the cam lever up-wards and swing it into the CLOSED position (g. 8a & b).

The lever should now be parallel to the fork blade andcurved toward the wheel. To apply enough clamping force,

you should have to wrap your ngers around the fork bladefor leverage, and the lever should leave a clear imprint inthe palm of your hand.

(b) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten thefasteners to the torque specications in Appendix D or thehub manufacturers instructions.

NOTE: If, on a traditional cam action system, the levercannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel tothe fork blade, return the lever to the OPEN position.Then turn the tension adjusting nut counterclockwiseone-quarter turn and try tightening the lever again.

(5) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten thefasteners to the torque specications in Appendix D or thehub manufacturers instructions.

WARNING: Securely clamping the wheel with acam action retention device takes considerable force.If you can fully close the cam lever without wrappingyour ngers around the fork blade for leverage, thelever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of yourhand, and the serrations on the wheel fastener do notemboss the surfaces of the dropouts, the tension is

insufcient. Open the lever; turn the tension adjustingnut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again. See alsothe rst WARNING in this Section, p. 16.

(6) If you disengaged the brake quick-release mechanismin 3. a. (1) above, re-engage it to restore correct brakepad-to-rim clearance.

(7) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in theframe and clears the brake pads; then squeeze the brakelever and make sure that the brakes are operating correctly.c. Removing a disk brake or rim brake Rear Wheel

(1) If you have a multi-speed bike with a derailleur gearsystem: shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the small-est, outermost rear sprocket).

If you have an internal gear rear hub, consult your dealeror the hub manufacturers instructions before attemptingto remove the rear wheel.

If you have a single-speed bike with rim or disk brake, goto step (4) below.

(2) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brakesquick-release mechanism to increase the clearance be-

tween the wheel rim and the brake pads (see Section 4.C,gs. 11 through 15).

(3) On a derailleur gear system, pull the derailleur bodyback with your right hand.

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(4) With a cam action mechanism, move the quick-releaselever to the OPEN position (g. 8b). With a through boltor bolt on mechanism, loosen the fastener(s) with anappropriate wrench, lock lever or integral lever; then pushthe wheel forward far enough to be able to remove thechain from the rear sprocket.

(5) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and

remove it from the rear dropouts.d. Installing a disk brake or rim brake Rear Wheel

CAUTION: If your bike is equipped with a rear diskbrake, be careful not to damage the disk, caliper orbrake pads when re-inserting the disk into the caliper.Never activate a disk brakes control lever unless thedisk is correctly inserted in the caliper.

(1) With a cam action system, move the cam lever to theOPEN position (see g. 8 a & b). The lever should be on

the side of the wheel opposite the derailleur and free-wheel sprockets.

(2) On a derailleur bike, make sure that the rear derail-leur is still in its outermost, high gear, position; then pullthe derailleur body back with your right hand. Put thechain on top of the smallest freewheel sprocket.

(3) On single-speed, remove the chain from the frontsprocket, so that you have plenty of slack in the chain.Put the chain on the rear wheel sprocket.

(4) Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts and

pull it all the way in to the dropouts.

(5) On a single speed or an internal gear hub, replacethe chain on the chainring; pull the wheel back in thedropouts so that it is straight in the frame and the chainhas about 1/4 inches of up-and-down play.

(6) With a cam action system, move the cam leverupwards and swing it into the CLOSED position (g. 8 a& b). The lever should now be parallel to the seat stay orchain stay and curved toward the wheel. To apply enoughclamping force, you should have to wrap your ngersaround the fork blade for leverage, and the lever shouldleave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand.

(7) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten thefasteners to the torque specications in Appendix D or thehub manufacturers instructions.

NOTE: If, on a traditional cam action system, the levercannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel tothe seat stay or chain stay, return the lever to the OPENposition. Then turn the tension adjusting nut counter-clockwise one-quarter turn and try tightening the leveragain.

WARNING: Securely clamping the wheel with a

cam action retention device takes considerable force.If you can fully close the cam lever without wrappingyour ngers around the seat stay or chain stay forleverage, the lever does not leave a clear imprintin the palm of your hand, and the serrations on thewheel fastener do not emboss the surfaces of thedropouts, the tension is insufcient. Open the lever;turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarterturn; then try again. See also the rst WARNING inthis Section, p. 16.

(8) If you disengaged the brake quick-release mechanism

in 3. c. (2) above, re-engage it to restore correct brakepad-to-rim clearance.

(9) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in theframe and clears the brake pads; then squeeze the brakelever and make sure that the brakes are operating correctly. 1921


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LB. Seat Post Cam Action Clamp

Some bikes are equipped with a cam action seat postbinder. The seat post cam action binder works exactly likethe traditional wheel cam action fastener (Section 4.A.2)While a cam action binder looks like a long bolt with alever on one end and a nut on the other, the binder usesan over-center cam action to rmly clamp the seat post(see g. 8a).

WARNING: Riding with an improperly tightenedseat post can allow the saddle to turn or move andcause you to lose control and fall. Therefore:

1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you knowhow to correctly clamp your seat post.

2. Understand and apply the correct technique forclamping your seat post.

3. Before you ride the bike, rst check that the seat

post is securely clamped.Adjusting the seat post cam action mechanismThe action of the cam squeezes the seat collar aroundthe seat post to hold the seat post securely in place. Theamount of clamping force is controlled by the tensionadjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clock-wise while keeping the cam lever from rotating increasesclamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keepingthe cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Lessthan half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make thedifference between safe and unsafe clamping force.

WARNING: The full force of the cam action isneeded to clamp the seat post securely. Holding thenut with one hand and turning the lever like a wing nutwith the other hand until everything is as tight as youcan get it will not clamp the seat post safely.

WARNING: If you can fully close the cam leverwithout wrapping your ngers around the seat post ora frame tube for leverage, and the lever does not leavea clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension isinsufcient. Open the lever; turn the tension adjustingnut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.C) BRAKES

WARNING: 1. Riding with improperly adjustedbrakes, worn brake pads, or wheels on which the rimwear mark is visible is dangerous and can result inserious injury or death.

2. Applying brakes too hard or too suddenly can lockup a wheel, which could cause you to lose control andfall. Sudden or excessive application of the front brakemay pitch the rider over the handlebars, which mayresult in serious injury or death.3. Some bicycle brakes, such as disc brakes (g. 11)and linear-pull brakes (g. 12), are extremely power-ful. Take extra care in becoming familiar with thesebrakes and exercise particular care when using them.

4. Some bicycle brakes are equipped with a brake forcemodulator, a small, cylindrical device through whichthe brake control cable runs and which is designed toprovide a more progressive application of braking force.A modulator makes the initial brake lever force moregentle, progressively increasingforce until full force is achieved. Ifyour bike is equipped with a brakeforce modulator, take extra care inbecoming familiar with its per-formance characteristics.

5. Disc brakes can get extremelyhot with extended use. Be carefulnot to touch a disc brake until ithas had plenty of time to cool.20


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6. See the brake manufacturersinstructions for operationand care of your brakes, andfor when brake pads must bereplaced. If you do not have themanufacturers instructions, seeyour dealer or contact the brakemanufacturer.

7. If you are replacing wornor damaged parts, use onlymanufacturer-approved genuinereplacement parts.

1. Brake controls and featuresIts very important to your safetythat you learn and remember whichbrake lever controls which brake onyour bike. Traditionally, the rightbrake lever controls the rear brake

and the left brake lever controls thefront brake; but, to make sure yourbikes brakes are set up this way,squeeze one brake lever and lookto see which brake, front or rear,engages. Now do the same with theother brake lever.Make sure that your hands canreach and squeeze the brake leverscomfortably. If your hands are toosmall to operate the levers comfort-

ably, consult your dealer before rid-ing the bike. The lever reach maybe adjustable; or you may need adifferent brake lever design.

Most rim brakes have some form of quick-release mecha-nism to allow the brake pads to clear the tire when a

wheel is removed or reinstalled.When the brake quick release isin the open position, the brakesare inoperative. Ask your dealerto make sure that you under-stand the way the brake quickrelease works on your bike (see

gs. 12, 13. 14 & 15) and checkeach time to make sure bothbrakes work correctly before youget on the bike.

2. How brakes workThe braking action of a bicycle is a function ofthe friction between the braking surfaces. To make surethat you have maximum friction available, keep yourwheel rims and brake pads or the disk rotor and caliperclean and free of dirt, lubricants, waxes or polishes.Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to stop

the bike. Maximum braking force for each wheel occurs atthe point just before the wheel locks up (stops rotating)and starts to skid. Once the tire skids, you actually losemost of your stopping force and all directional control. Youneed to practice slowing and stopping smoothly withoutlocking up a wheel. The technique is called progressivebrake modulation. Instead of jerking the brake lever tothe position where you think youll generate appropriatebraking force, squeeze the lever, progressively increasingthe braking force. If you feel the wheel begin to lock up,release pressure just a little to keep the wheel rotating

just short of lockup. Its important to develop a feel for theamount of brake lever pressure required for each wheelat different speeds and on different surfaces. To betterunderstand this, experiment a little by walking your bikeand applying different amounts of pressure to each brakelever, until the wheel locks.

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L When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins toslow, but your body wants to continue at the speed at whichit was going. This causes a transfer of weight to the frontwheel (or, under heavy braking, around the front wheel hub,which could send you ying over the handlebars).

A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brakepressure before lockup; a wheel with less weight will lock

up with less brake pressure. So, as you apply brakes andyour weight is transferred forward, you need to shift yourbody toward the rear of the bike, to transfer weight backon to the rear wheel; and at the same time, you need toboth decrease rear braking and increase front brakingforce. This is even more important on descents, becausedescents shift weight forward.Two keys to effective speed control and safe stopping arecontrolling wheel lockup and weight transfer. This weighttransfer is even more pronounced if your bike has a frontsuspension fork. Front suspension dips under braking,

increasing the weight transfer (see also Section 4.F).Practice braking and weight transfer techniques wherethere is no trafc or other hazards and distractions.Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or inwet weather. It will take longer to stop on loose surfacesor in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced, so the wheelshave less cornering and braking traction and can lock upwith less brake force. Moisture or dirt on the brake padsreduces their ability to grip. The way to maintain controlon loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly.

D) SHIFTING GEARS

Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain,an internal gear hub drivetrain or, in some special cases,a combination of the two.

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1. How a derailleur drivetrain works

If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-chang-ing mechanism will have:

a rear cassette or freewheel sprocket cluster

a rear derailleur

usually a front derailleur

one or two shifters one, two or three front sprockets called chainrings

a drive chain

A) Shifting Gears

There are several different types and styles of shiftingcontrols: levers, twist grips, triggers, combination shift/brake controls and push-buttons. Ask your dealer toexplain the type of shifting controls that are on your bike,and to show you how they work.

The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confusing.

A downshift is a shift to a slower gear, one which iseasier to pedal. An upshift is a shift to a faster, harderto pedal gear. Whats confusing is that whats happeningat the front derailleur is the opposite of whats happeningat the rear derailleur (for details, read the instructionson Shifting the Rear Derailleur and Shifting the FrontDerailleur on the next page). For example, you can selecta gear which will make pedaling easier on a hill (make adownshift) in one of two ways: shift the chain down thegear steps to a smaller gear at the front, or up the gear

steps to a larger gear at the rear. So, at the rear gearcluster, what is called a downshift looks like an upshift.

The way to keep things straight is to remember thatshifting the chain in towards the centerline of the bike isfor accelerating and climbing and is called a downshift.Moving the chain out or away from the centerline of thebike is for speed and is called an upshift.


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C) Shifting the Front DerailleurThe front derailleur, which is controlled by the leftshifter, shifts the chain between the larger and smallerchainrings. Shifting the chain onto a smaller chainringmakes pedaling easier (a downshift). Shifting to alarger chainring makes pedaling harder (an upshift).

D) Which gear should I be in?

The combination of largest rear and smallest frontgears [Fig. 16] is for the steepest hills. The smallestrear and largest front combination [Fig. 16] is for thegreatest speed. It is not necessary to shift gears in se-quence. Instead, nd the starting gear which is rightfor your level of ability a gear which is hard enoughfor quick acceleration but easy enough to let you startfrom a stop without wobbling and experiment withupshifting and downshifting to get a feel for the differ-ent gear combinations. At rst, practice shifting wherethere are no obstacles, hazards or other trafc, untilyouve built up your condence. If you have difcultieswith shifting, the problem could be mechanical adjust-ment. See your dealer for help.

WARNING: Never shift a derailleur onto thelargest or the smallest sprocket if the derailleur isnot shifting smoothly. The derailleur may be out ofadjustment and the chain could jam, causing you tolose control and fall.

E) What if it wont shift gears?

If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails toresult in a smooth shift to the next gear chances arethat the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take thebike to your dealer to have it adjusted.

Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle derail-leur system design requires that the drive chain bemoving forward and be under at least some tension.A derailleur will shift only if you are pedaling forward.

CAUTION: Never move the shifter whilepedaling backward, nor pedal backwards afterhaving moved the shifter. This could jam the chain

and cause serious damage to the bicycle.

B) Shifting the Rear DerailleurThe rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter.The function of the rear derailleur is to move the drivechain from one gear sprocket to another. The smallersprockets on the gear cluster produce higher gearratios. Pedaling in the higher gears requires greaterpedaling effort, but takes you a greater distancewith each revolution of thepedal cranks. The larger

sprockets produce lowergear ratios. Using themrequires less pedaling effort,but takes you a shorterdistance with each pedalcrank revolution. Movingthe chain from a smallersprocket of the gear clusterto a larger sprocket resultsin a downshift. Moving thechain from a larger sprocketto a smaller sprocket results

in an upshift. In order forthe derailleur to move thechain from one sprocket toanother, the rider must bepedaling forward. 23


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L c. What if it wont shift gears?

If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails toresult in a smooth shift to the next gear chances are thatthe mechanism is out of adjustment. Take the bike to yourdealer to have it adjusted.

E) PEDALS

1.Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the front wheelwhen you turn the handlebars to steer while a pedal is inthe forwardmost position. This is common on small-framedbicycles, and is avoided by keeping the inside pedal up andthe outside pedal down when turning. On any bicycle, thistechnique will also prevent the inside pedal from strikingthe ground in a turn.

WARNING: Toe Overlap could cause you to lose controland fall. Ask your dealer to help you determine if thecombination of frame size, crank arm length, pedal designand shoes you will use results in pedal overlap. Whetheryou have overlap or not, you must keep the inside pedal upand the outside pedal down when making sharp turns.

2.Some bicycles come equipped with pedals that havesharp and potentially dangerous surfaces. These surfacesare designed to add safety by increasing adhesion betweenthe riders shoe and the pedal. If your bicycle has thistype of high-performance pedal, you must take extra careto avoid serious injury from the pedals sharp surfaces.Based on your riding style or skill level, you may prefer aless aggressive pedal design. Your dealer can show you anumber of options and make suitable recommendations.

3. Toeclips and straps are a means to keep feet correctlypositioned and engaged with the pedals. The toeclippositions the ball of the foot over the pedal spindle, whichgives maximum pedaling power. The toe strap, whentightened, keeps the foot engaged throughout the rotationcycle of the pedal. While toeclips and straps give some25

2. How an internal gear hub drivetrain worksIf your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, thegear changing mechanism will consist of:

a 3, 5, 7, 8, 12 speed or possibly an innitely variableinternal gear hub one, or sometimes two shifters one or two control cables one front sprocket called a chainring a drive chain

a. Shifting internal gear hub gears

Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply amatter of moving the shifter to the indicated position forthe desired gear ratio. After you have moved the shifter tothe gear position of your choice, ease the pressure on thepedals for an instant to allow the hub to complete the shift.

b. Which gear should I be in?

The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills.

The numerically largest gear is for the greatest speed.

Shifting from an easier, slower gear (like 1) to a harder,faster gear (like 2 or 3) is called an upshift. Shiftingfrom a harder, faster gear to an easier, slower gearis called a downshift. It is not necessary to shift gearsin sequence. Instead, nd the starting gear for theconditions a gear which is hard enough for quickacceleration but easy enough to let you start from a stopwithout wobbling and experiment with upshifting anddownshifting to get a feel for the different gears. At rst,practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or

other trafc, until youve built up your condence. Learnto anticipate the need to shift, and shift to a lower gearbefore the hill gets too steep. If you have difculties withshifting, the problem could be mechanical adjustment.See your dealer for help.24


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benet with any kind of shoe, they work most effectivelywith cycling shoes designed for use with toeclips. Yourdealer can explain how toeclips and straps work. Shoeswith deep treaded soles or welts which might make itmore difcult for you to insert or remove your foot shouldnot be used with toeclips and straps.

WARNING: Getting into and out of pedals with

toeclips and straps requires skill which can only beacquired with practice. Until it becomes a reex action,the technique requires concentration which can distractthe riders attention, causing you to lose control andfall. Practice the use of toeclips and straps where thereare no obstacles, hazards or trafc. Keep the strapsloose, and dont tighten them until your technique andcondence in getting in and out of the pedals warrantsit. Never ride in trafc with your toe straps tight.

4.Clipless pedals (sometimes called step-in pedals)are another means to keep feet securely in the correct

position for maximum pedaling efciency. They work likeski bindings ... a plate on the sole of the shoe clicks into aspring-loaded xture on the pedal. Clipless pedals requireshoes and cleats which are compatible with the make andmodel pedal being used.

Many clipless pedals are designed to allow the riderto adjust the amount of force needed to engage ordisengage the foot. Follow the pedal manufacturersinstructions, or ask your dealer to show you how to makethis adjustment. Use the easiest setting until engagingand disengaging becomes a reex action, but always

make sure that there is sufcient tension to preventunintended release of your foot from the pedal.

WARNING: Clipless pedals are intended for usewith shoes specically made to t them and aredesigned to rmly keep the foot engaged with the 25

pedal. Do not use shoes which do not engage thepedals correctly.

Practice is required to learn to engage and disengagethe foot safely. Until engaging and disengaging the footbecomes a reex action, the technique requires concen-tration which can distract the riders attention, causingthe rider to lose control and fall. Practice engaging and

disengaging clipless pedals in a place where there are noobstacles, hazards or trafc; and be sure to follow thepedal manufacturers setup and service instructions. Ifyou do not have the manufacturers instructions, see yourdealer or contact the manufacturer.

F) BICYCLE SUSPENSION

Many bicycles are equipped with suspension systems.There are many different types of suspension systems too many to deal with individually in this Manual. If yourbicycle has a suspension system of any kind, be sure toread and follow the suspension manufacturers setup andservice instructions. If you do not have the manufacturersinstructions, see your dealer or contact the manufacturer.

WARNING: Failure to maintain, check and properlyadjust the suspension system may result in suspensionmalfunction, which may cause you to lose control and fall.

If your bike has suspension, the increased speed you maydevelop also increases your risk of injury. For example,when braking, the front of a suspended bike dips. Youcould lose control and fall if you do not have experiencewith this system. Learn to handle your suspension system

safely [see also Section 4.C].

WARNING: Changing suspension adjustment canchange the handling and braking characteristics of yourbicycle. Never change suspension adjustment unlessyou are thoroughly familiar with the suspension system


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L with your new bike, you feel that a different tire mightbetter suit your riding needs, your dealer can help youselect the most appropriate design.

The size, pressure rating, and on some high-performancetires the specic recommended use, are marked on thesidewall of the tire [see Fig. 17]. The part of this informationwhich is most important to you is Tire Pressure.

WARNING: Never inate a tire beyond themaximum pressure marked on the tires sidewall.Exceeding the recommended maximum pressure mayblow the tire off the rim, which could cause damage tothe bike and injury to the rider and bystanders.The best andsafest way toinate a bicycletire to the correctpressure is witha bicycle pump

which has a built-in pressure gauge.

WARNING:There is a safetyrisk in usinggas station airhoses or otherair compressors.They are notmade for bicycletires. They move

a large volume ofair very rapidly, and will raise the pressure in your tirevery rapidly, which could cause the tube to explode.

Tire pressure is given either as maximum pressureor as a pressure range. How a tire performs under

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manufacturers instructions and recommendations, andalways check for changes in the handling and brakingcharacteristics of the bicycle after a suspension adjust-ment by taking a careful test ride in a hazard-free area.

Suspension can increase control and comfort by allow-ing the wheels to better follow the terrain. This enhancedcapability may allow you to ride faster; but you must

not confuse the enhanced capabilities of the bicycle withyour own capabilities as a rider. Increasing your skill willtake time and practice. Proceed carefully until you havelearned to handle the full capabilities of your bike.

CAUTION: Not all bicycles can be safely retrottedwith some types of suspension systems. Before retrottingthe suspension of any Kona bicycle, check with Kona tomake sure that what you want to do is compatible with thebicycles design, and whether the warranty will be voided.Failing to do so can result in catastrophic frame failure.

G) SERVICE NOTES FOR KONA DUAL SUSPENSION

While Kona suspension systems are very torsionallyrigid and require less maintenance than a single pivotdesign, bearings and bushings will wear out. Bushing kitsand replacement rear stays are available from Kona.

Cartridge bearings give the suspension a smootherride. These bearings also require more attention than dobushings. Contaminated bearings can rust & seize, andcause frame damage. Regularly inspect the bearings andmake sure that they allow the linkage to move freely.

H) TIRES AND TUBES1. TIRES:Bicycle tires are available in many designs andspecications, ranging from general-purpose designs totires designed to perform best under very specic weatheror terrain conditions. If, once youve gained experience26


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different terrain or weather conditions depends largelyon tire pressure. Inating the tire to near its maximumrecommended pressure gives the lowest rollingresistance; but also produces the harshest ride.High pressures work best on smooth, dry pavement.

Very low pressures, at the bottom of the recommendedpressure range, give the best performance on smooth,

slick terrain such as hard-packed clay, and on deep, loosesurfaces such as deep, dry sand.Tire pressure that is too low for your weight and theriding conditions can cause a puncture of the tube byallowing the tire to deform sufciently to pinch the innertube between the rim and the riding surface.

CAUTION: Pencil type automotive tire gaugescan be inaccurate and should not be relied upon forconsistent, accurate pressure readings. Instead, use ahigh quality dial gauge.

Ask your dealer to recommend the best tire pressure forthe kind of riding you will most often do, and have thedealer inate your tires to that pressure. Then, checkination as described in Section 1.C so youll know howcorrectly inated tires should look and feel when youdont have access to a gauge. Some tires may need tobe brought up to pressure every week or two, so it isimportant to check your tire pressures before every ride.Some special high-performance tires have unidirectionaltreads: their tread pattern is designed to work better in onedirection than in the other. The sidewall marking of a unidi-

rectional tire will have an arrow showing the correct rotationdirection. If your bike has unidirectional tires, be sure thatthey are mounted to rotate in the correct direction.

2. TIRE VALVES:There are primarily two kinds ofbicycle tube valves: The Schraeder Valve and the

Presta Valve. The bicycle pump you use must have thetting appropriate to the valve stems on your bicycle.

The Schraeder valve [Fig. 18a] is like the valve on a car tire.To inate a Schraeder valve tube, remove the valve cap andclamp the pump tting onto the end of the valve stem. To letair out of a Schraeder valve, depress the pin in the end of thevalve stem with the end of a key or other appropriate object.

The Presta valve [Fig. 18b] has a narrower diameterand is only found on bicycle tires. To inate a Prestavalve tube using a Presta headed bicyclepump, remove the valve cap; unscrew(counterclockwise) the valve stem lock nut;and push down on the valve stem to free itup. Then push the pump head on to the valvehead, and inate. To inate a Presta valve witha Schraeder pump tting, youll need a Prestaadapter (available at your bike shop) whichscrews on to the valve stem once youve freed

up the valve. The adapter ts into the Schraederpump tting. Close the valve after ination.To let air out of a Presta valve, open up thevalve stem lock nut and depress the valve stem.

WARNING: Patching a tube is an emergency repair.If you do not apply the patch correctly or apply severalpatches, the tube can fail, resulting in possible tubefailure, which could cause you to loose control and fall.Replace a patched tube as soon as possible.

5. SERVICE

WARNING: Technological advances have madebicycles and bicycle components more complex, andthe pace of innovation is increasing. It is impossiblefor this manual to provide all the information requiredto properly repair and/or maintain your bicycle.

27


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L In order to help minimize the chances of an accident andpossible injury, it is critical that you have any repair ormaintenance which is not specically described in thismanual performed by your dealer. Equally importantis that your individual maintenance requirements willbe determined by everything from your riding style togeographic location. Consult your dealer for help indetermining your maintenance requirements.

WARNING: Many bicycle service and repair tasksrequire special knowledge and tools. Do not begin anyadjustments or service on your bicycle learned fromyour dealer how to properly complete them. Improperadjustment or service may result in damage to the bi-cycle or in an accident which can cause seriousinjury or death.

If you want to learn to do major service and repair workon your bike, you have three options:

1.Ask your dealer for copies of the manufacturersinstallation and service instructions for the components onyour bike, or contact the component manufacturer.

2.Ask your dealer to recommend a book on bicycle repair.

3.Ask your dealer about the availability of bicycle repaircourses in your area.

Regardless of which option you select, we recommendthat you ask your dealer to check the quality of your workthe rst time you work on something and before youride the bike, just to make sure that you did everythingcorrectly. Since that will require the time of a mechanic,there may be a modest charge for this service.

We also recommend that you ask your dealer forguidance on what spare parts, such as inner tubes,light bulbs, etc. it would be appropriate for you to haveonce you have learned how to replace such parts whenthey require replacement.

A) SERVICE INTERVALSSome service and maintenance can and should be per-formed by the owner, and require no special tools orknowledge beyond what is presented in this manual.

The following are examples of the type of service youshould perform yourself. All other service, maintenanceand repair should be performed in a properly equippedfacility by a qualied bicycle mechanic using the correcttools and procedures specied by the manufacturer.

1. Break-in Period:Your bike will last longer and workbetter if you break it in before riding it hard. Control cablesand wheel spokes may stretch or seat when a new bikeis rst used and may require readjustment by your dealer.Your Mechanical Safety Check [Section 1.C] will help youidentify some things that need readjustment. But even ifeverything seems ne to you, its best to take your bikeback to the dealer for a checkup. Dealers typically suggestyou bring the bike in for a 30 day checkup. Another wayto judge when its time for the rst checkup is to bring thebike in after three to ve hours of hard off-road use, orabout 10 to 15 hours of on-road or more casual off-roaduse. But if you think something is wrong with the bike,take it to your dealer before riding it again.2. Before every ride:Mechanical Safety Check [Section 1.C]3. After every long or hard ride:if the bike has beenexposed to water or grit; or at least every 100 miles/5 hours: Clean the bike and lightly oil the chain. Wipe off

excess oil. Lubrication is a function of climate. Talk to yourdealer about the best lubricants and the recommendedlubrication frequency for your area.

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2k12 owners manual

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